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FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

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Black Hamburgh Grapes in

an Amateur’s Greenhouse

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US “Aegan

+
Fruit Growing for

Amateurs

BY

H. H. THOMAS

(Editor of ‘* Popular Gardening ”)

Assisted by
J. GARDNER

ie th ad - 1922... :

FRRELY ILLUSTRATED BY PHOTOGRAPHS AND SKETCHES

:
$
(A

CASSELL AND COMPANY, LTD
London, New York, Toronto and Melbourne

neal

~~

PREFACE

Tue cultivation of fruit trees, if practised with care and dis-
crimination, proves of absorbing interest, and is profitable. If,
however, the work is commenced by the inexperienced without
due inquiry, and in ignorance of essential details of cultivation,
failure, comparative if not absolute, is inevitable. Providing
the amateur plants a representative selection of fruits, and
disposes them in the positions best suited to their needs, he
will not have long to wait for some return on his outlay. He
should plant not only Apple, Pear, Plum, Peach, and Cherry
—none of which gives a fair crop until several years have passed
—but Strawberry, Raspberry, Gooseberry, and Currant. If
Strawberries are planted in late summer a crop of excellent
fruits may be obtained the following year, and the bush fruits
quickly come into bearing. By widening the scope of his fruit
garden the amateur adds not only to its interest, but secures

_ @ profitable return in as short a time as possible. If walls are

available it should be the object of the gardener to cover them
without delay, for wall area is valuable. The simplest way
to do this is to plant trained standards between the fan-trained
trees or espaliers; in the course of years the latter will spread
and occupy the whole wall area, but, meanwhile, much fruit
can be obtained from the trained standard trees planted to fill
the upper part of the wall.

“ Fruit Growing for Amateurs ” is published with the object
of guiding amateur gardeners who possess, or are about to

vi PREFACE

plant, fruit trees. The chief points of difficulty which confront
the inexperienced are dealt with, and selections of reliable
varieties are given. The pages are freely illustrated by sketches,
and these, it is hoped, will assist the reader in elucidating the
mysteries of training and pruning. If certain points still remain
obscure, let the reader write for further information to the Editor
of Popular Gardening, and a reply will be given through the
columns of that paper.

In the preparation of this book I have to acknowledge the

valued assistance of Mr. J. Gardner, who has written several of

the chapters. Use has also been made, in a few instances, of

notes written by Mr. George Abbey, Mr. H. H. Aitken, and Mr.

J. Wright, while many of the sketches have been re-drawn from

originals by Mr. H. ©. Rollinson, whose explanatory notes

_ accompany them,
H. Hu,

CONTENTS

CHAPTER

1. Maxine A Fruit GARDEN ‘ ‘ ‘
2. Puantine Fruit TREES . ; ;

3. Root PRuNING

4. Renovatine Fruit — ;

5. THe Poiiination or Fruit BLossoms

6. IncrEastnG Fruit TREES ; .

7. Forms or Fruit TREEs .

8. SuMMER PRUNING . ; : ,

9. THE APPLE ; ; 3 "

10. THe CHERRY ; ,

11. Rep, WuItTE, AND Bisox Coasts

12. Tue Fie F :

13. THe GOOSEBERRY . ‘

14. THe LOGANBERRY AND OTHER — Faure

. Meton GrRowine 5
. Toe Pracnu AND NECTARINE

. THe PEAR

. Toe PLum

. Toe RASPBERRY

. Toe STRAWBERRY . ;
. THe VINE ? : $

. Storine Fruits

. Borruwne Fruit i
. WintER WasHEs For Fruit Tanks
. INSECTICIDES FOR AMATEURS .

. Insect Pests oF Fruit TREES

. Various Fruits ; ’ ;
Diseases oF Fruit Trees, :

?

+]

FRUIT TREES

Have now been grown in British

Fruit Gardens for 120 years. The

experience gained in this long period
is at your service.

6°
BUNYARD'S
i

)

)

NO ORDER TOO SMALL FOR
ATTENTION.

WRITE FOR CATALOGUE,

GEORGE BUNYARD

& CO. LTD.,
ROYAL NURSERIES,

MAIDSTONE.

Established 1796,

DSSS

FRUIT GROWING FOR
AMATEURS

CHAPTER I
Making a Fruit Garden

THE formation and planting of a fruit garden require a good
deal of care and foresight if full advantage is to be taken of the
space at disposal. It does not fall to the lot of everyone to
have the opportunity of laying out a new garden, and generally
the best has to be made of the ground available. If the posi-
tion can be chosen, a site sloping very slightly to the south is
to be preferred, and fairly high ground is much better than a
low and flat situation, which usually suffers from late spring
frosts. Shelter from the north and east is an advantage, and
may be the means of saving the blossom and tender foliage from
damage in spring.

The accompanying plan shows how a piece of ground may
be laid out with the object of making the utmost out of the
space. It represents a site 180 feet long and 150 feet wide,
and it could, of course, be reproduced in its entirety or a portion
of it could be copied. It is surrounded by a wall, and the names
of the different kinds of fruit trees that succeed on the four
aspects are mentioned. Thus anyone possessing one aspect will
see at a glance the best kind of tree to plant. The garden is
intersected by walks, and has a narrower walk all round. The
borders in front of the walls facing south and west are 16 feet
wide, and would provide ideal positions for Strawberries or bush
fruits if required. The borders in front of the north and east
walls are only 5 feet wide, as these aspects are not so suitable
for growing crops, but would accommodate a double row of late
Strawberries

2 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

Bush Fruits between Apple Trees.—The best kinds of
Apple trees to grow are bushes and pyramids on the Paradise
Stock. These commence to bear fruit when quite young, and
are far more satisfactory than standard trees when quick returns
are a consideration. If they are planted 15 feet apart each
way there will be sufficient space for a Gooseberry or Currant
bush between them—at any rate, for a number of years. Goose-
berries that are required to hang until ripe are better in a bed
by themselves, so that they can be netted to keep off birds.
The bushes should be 5 feet apart.

Black Currants are a profitable crop, and a good-sized planta-
tion will not be the least remunerative part of the garden. They
pay for good cultivation, and give very little trouble.

Even when Apples are planted with bush fruits there will
be a good deal of space between them for some years, and every
available piece of ground should be cropped with vegetables
until the trees approach full size.

Pyramid Pears on the Quince Stock may be planted at a
similar distance apart with bush fruits between them, and here
again there will be ample space for ‘ catch” crops.

If it is decided to plant Apples and Pears alone, without
bush fruit, a space of 12 feet each way between the trees will
suffice. In that case it will be necessary to make larger beds
of Currants and Gooseberries; but the plan of intermixing
answers well, and the bushes give good returns until the per-
manent trees become large enough to fill the space.

Plums and Cherries succeed under similar conditions, and
when wall space is limited some bush-trained trees should be
included if these fruits are wanted. Plums, especially, crop
much better in very firm soil, for if the ground is too rich and
rather loose, the trees grow very vigorously and bear compara-
tively small crops in many instances.

Cordon Apples and Pears.—A good fruit garden would
not be complete without these, for many of the finest fruits
are obtained from cordons. By growing this form of tree the
amateur is enabled to plant an increased number of varieties.
Cordons do well on a south or west wall, and they are most
useful for planting by the side of a walk in a sunny position.
The best plan is to train them obliquely, for this allows a greater
leagth of stem, and to a certain extent it checks rank growth,
thus promoting fruitfulness, They should be planted 2 feet

ze

Lspater Pears Plums —
. Strawberry Loraer
Cordon Gooseberrles Coraon J7ipples
yt Ca Ee WhArte
wrramnts
2 & Gooseberrtes Bush Alpples é
8 : NS
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X La anberries :
& allied Lructs Gooseberries ¥|
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A Cordon Fears wr Cordon Apples Ki
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Lilach Currants
Blactt Currants, :
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Ss | Zspalier Pears __| Zspatier Pears

wee Cherries | |__

Zums

Plan for Amateur’s Fruit Garden

4 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

apart, and trained to a wire trellis when in the open. Goose-
berries succeed admirably as cordons, and this is an ideal way
to grow dessert varieties.

Espalier Pears and Apples also do well in similar positions,
and should be planted from 15 feet to 20 feet apart.

Raspberries.—These are always profitable, and are wel-
comed by everyone, consequently, a good-sized bed should be
planted. The rows may be 5 feet apart, and the plants 2 feet
asunder in the rows. The best plan is to tie the canes to wires
secured at the ends of the rows, and in the middle, by posts.
Autumn fruiting Raspberries deserve a place, as they are a
welcome addition to the summer crop. They should be given
@ similar amount of space.

Loganberries and allied fruits like the Laxtonberry and
Newberry are grown on the same principle as summer Rasp-
berries, but the plants should be 8 feet apart owing to their
vigorous growth. As a general rule one row of each kind will
be sufficient. They succeed admirably on an old fence or
trellis, and make an effective screen.

Strawberries.—To ge‘ the best results with these the
plants should not be kept for more than three years; conse-
quently, it is advisable to layer runners every year to maintain
a vigorous stock. If the space devoted to Strawberries in the
plan is too much, a portion of it might be planted with vegetables,
and this would give the plants a highly desirable change of ground.
Most varieties succeed well if planted 2 feet apart, but vigorous
growers should have more space, and “ catch” crops of vegetables
can be taken off between the plants the first year. The per-
petual Strawberries also merit inclusion, as they prove welcome
in the autumn when the main crop is over. Good cultivation
is essential to get fine fruit.

Fruit Trees on Walls.—lIt is a great advantage to have
a wall surrounding, or partly surrounding, a garden. Dwarf
fan-trained trees are the best to plant, and these should really
be placed 20 feet apart; on no account should they be closer
than 15 fect. A wall is covered more quickly if standard trees
are planted between the dwarf ones, and when that is done
the latter should be 25 feet apart. Of course, this is only prac-
ticable in the case of high walls—those 12 feet high and upwards.
reyes Apricots, Pears, Plums, and Cherries all succeed like
thi /

~ a A oe. ee r<

Se

MAKING A FRUIT GARDEN 5

For a wall with a south aspect Pears, Apricots, Peaches,
Nectarines, and Figs are the most satisfactory ; but Plums can
also be included if required. The same kinds are suitable for
a wall facing south-west or west. For a west wall Pears are
hard to beat, and espalier- and cordon-trained trees might be
chosen. Plums and Morello Cherries are the best for a north
aspect; but sweet Cherries can also be grown there. Red
Currants may be included to provide late fruit for succession.
The same kind of trees will succeed on an east wall, and Jar-
gonelle Pears often do well on such an aspect. It should be
mentioned that cordon Apples of choice dessert varieties succeed
admirably on a south or west wall, and in cold districts will
produce fine fruit owing to the extra protection and warmth.

CHAPTER II
Planting Fruit Trees

Tue planting of fruit trees can be carried out at any time from
October until March, provided that the ground is not too wet,
and is not rendered unworkable by frost and snow. Early
planting has several advantages: in the first place, the soil
is more or less warm, consequently, the trees are inclined to
commence root action as soon as planted. They become well
settled in the soil before spring, and make better growth the
first season than those planted after the turn of the year. It
is important to have the ground in readiness to receive the
young trees directly they arrive from the nursery, so that they
ure not kept out of the ground longer than is necessary. If
any of them are at all dry at the root when they come to hand,
souk them in clear tepid water before planting. If they are
allowed to remain in a dry condition the wood will shrivel, and
such a state of affairs is a serious check to the satisfactory progress
of the trees.

The Best Soil.—Fruit trees succeed best in a deep, loamy
ground, and this ought to be cultivated to a depth of quite
J feet before planting takes place; 1f it is dug deeper, so much
the better. When the land has been under cultivation for some
years, and has been regularly enriched with manures, it is not
desirable to add manure at planting time, as such treatment
would encourage the trees to grow with undue vigour. It is
a better plan to feed the trees when they are bearing full crops
of fruits. In the case of land that is being freshly broken up
for planting, however, the addition of some well-decayed farm-
yard manure is beneficial. This should be incorporated with the
lower soil, and should not be allowed to come in contact with
the roots. Lime rubble ought to be mixed in the soil where
stone fruits are to be planted.

Needless to say, planting should be done when the soil is
in a fairly dry and friable condition, and it is important to avoid

6

« =
< ee es /

Planting, Staking and Labelling Standard Fruit Tree

Ways of Labelling Fruit Trees

Incorrect Planting ; the hole is too small and the
roots cannot be spread out

When a sila of manure is apolied. it should be
spread over the ground near the tree, not placed
thickly round the stem as shown

ates es ae

%
t

PLANTING FRUIT TREES 9

doing the work in wet weather, for when the ground is sticky
it cannot be trodden down firmly around the roots.

Distance between the Trees.—The distance apart at which
to plant the trees is an important matter. Bush and pyramid
Apples and Pears should have a space of quite 12 feet left be-
tween them in the rows, and when they are grown in large
blocks, leave rather more space between the rows. It is not
too much to allow standard trees a distance of 30 feet each

Fruit Tree Planting. Hole well made at a4;
badly made at b

way. Until they develop large heads, the space between can
be planted with bush fruits and vegetable crops. Cordon
Apples and Pears succeed admirably at a distance of 2 feet
apart; while fan-trained specimens of Pears, Plums, Cherries,
Apricots, or Peaches should be 15 feet apart. It is essential to
take out wide holes when planting, so that the roots can be
spread out fully, but they do not require to be deep. As a
generai rule the earth mark on the stem, in the case of young
trees, will indicate the depth at which they should be planted.
All that is necessary is to cover the roots effectively; deep

B

ro FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

planting often causes the trees to make rank growth, which
is the chief cause of unfruitfulness. Do not make the middle
of the hole lower than the sides, but keep it as level as possible.

Staking for Support.—After the tree has been placed in
position, drive in the stake, if support is needed, before the soil
is filled in, so that it can be placed between the roots to avoid
injury to any of them. Tie with tar twine, and place a piece
of old cloth around the stem of the tree to prevent the string
cutting into the bark. See that the roots are spread out care-
fully to their full extent, and if the ends of any of them are
damaged, trim them off with a sharp knife. Fill in with some
of the finest soil around the roots, and tread it down firmly,
afterwards leaving all level and tidy on the surface. If a mulch
of short stable manure is given it will protect the roots in case
of severe frost during the winter.

Concerning Orchard Trees.—When large permanent
orchards are required standard trees will be found the best.
Whether the land was under cultivation previously or not is
not an important matter, as it would require to be deeply broken
up in any case. The point is its subsequent treatment after
planting ; if the ground is to be cropped with garden produce
for a time, all well and good; but if it is to be laid down with
grass, do not neglect to cultivate the soil for a space of at least
4 feet from the stems of the trees. Under such conditions it is
an easy matter to keep the weeds hoed off when necessary,
and the trees will be found to make free and healthy growth.
On the other hand, if the grass is allowed to grow up to the
tree stems, growth will be far less vigorous and satisfactory.
This is an important matter, and deserves the attention of all
who wish to make their orchard a success.

Suitable Trees to Buy.—Trees to be purchased should
always be of the best possible value. ‘Two-year- or three-year-
old trees are perhaps the best with which to begin. Those of
the former age have been cut back once in pruning, and have
had two seasons’ growth from budding or grafting. Choose
young trees which have stout but firm young shoots upon them,
but do not think that mere vigour is best. Trees may have very
strong growths, and at the same {ime these, owing to their un-
ripened character, may be of little value, and when pruned
back fail to grow satisfactorily. When making purchases it
should be mentioned to the vendor for what purposes the trees

er

Moe fie

STOCKS FOR FRUIT TREES tI

are required. It is not much use, for example, to buy fan-

trained trees for planting in the open.

Of course, it is quite possible to buy maiden trees and grow
and train them for whatever purpose is required; but the
amateur will be well advised to buy trees two years old. Maiden
trees have had but one season’s growth, and usually consist of
one straight stem.

Fruit Tree Stocks —Apple trees for small gardens should
be on the Paradise Stock in preference to the Crab. The trees
are smaller on the Paradise, and are in nearly all cases quicker
in coming into bearing than when on the Crab or seedling
Stock.

There are many sorts of Pears which fail completely when
grown directly upon the Quince. Unless these are “ double
worked ” (that is to say, budded not directly on the Quince
but on another variety of Pear which itself is budded on the
Quince), they are absolute failures, and this is serious when
only one or two trees can be grown. But for small gardens
Pears should be grown upon the Quince Stock either from single
or double working. Pears grown upon Pear Stocks make very
large trees as a rule, and to keep them within bounds in a small
area involves much pruning, and this in its turn tends to barren-
ness and overproduction of shoots which seldom produce fruit.

Most land requires draining for fruit growing. In all cases
it is not possible to carry out draining. Where the ground lies
very low, and water does not readily escape, the trees may be
mounded or planted somewhat above the surrounding level.
In each hole in which a tree is planted there may be placed
half a barrow load of broken bricks and lumps of old mortar.
This to some extent drains the position of the tree, but by no
means solves the problem of badly drained land where there
is no outlet for surplus water.

CHAPTER IIL
Root Pruning

Fruit trees frequently become too vigorous and luxuriant,
and in such cases a little judicious: root pruning is invariably
what is required to remedy the trouble. In addition to check-
ing excessive branch growth, root pruning renders the fresh
shoots fruitful, brings the roots nearer the surface, and causes
the production of fibrous roots, which are essential to healthy,

rofitable trees. Root pruning can be carried out from the
end of October to the end of March, but it will be found the
best plan to get it done early, when the soil is in good workable
condition and the weather mild.

The root pruning of fruit trees more than five years old
should extend over two seasons, one half of the roots being
treated one year and the other half the next. Dig out a
circular trench about 2 feet wide half-way round the tree, at a
distance of from 3 to 44 feet from the main stem according to
its age and size. In dealing with large trees the trench must be
farther away from the trunk than when root pruning young
trees. Small fibrous roots should not be damaged, but long,
bare, fibreless roots must be shortened, and particularly those
that strike downward into the subsoil; excavation underneath
the trees is, of course, necessary in order to get at these.

A sharp knife should be used, the cuts being made in a
slanting direction, starting from the underside of the roots.
All pieces of root cut away ought to be removed from the trench.
When the work is finished the trench is carefully filled in again
with good soil, that removed in many cases being suitable if
some fibrous loam, road-grit, and lime rubbish are mixed with it.

Young fruit trees, especially Pear, Plum, and Peach, are
very liable to produce vigorous, barren branches, during the
first few years after being planted, Unless this excessive vigour
is checked the trees develop so rapidly that they may become
full of gross shoots that do not bear fruit, and, moreover, destroy

12

ROOT PRUNING 13

the siape and balance of the. trees. Many growers advise
that each autumn, for the first two or three years after planting,
the trees should be lifted, a plan that answers the same pur-
pose as root pruning older trees. Some of the soil is removed
from beneath and around the roots, and the tree is lifted up;
the soil is then made firm again and more added with the object

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Trench dug half way round Fruit Tree for purposes of
root pruning

14 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

of bringing the roots of the fruit tree nearer the surface ; 2 inches
of soil covering above the uppermost roots is sufficient. It is
obvious that only comparatively small trees can be lifted con-
veniently ; when they have become established root pruning
must be resorted to. If young fruit trees, and particularly

Cutting the thick roots that have entered
subsoil

those growing against a wall, were lifted or root pruned during
the first three or four years following planting, they would
make more shapely trees and bear heavier crops than usual.
If a tree is allowed to grow as vigorously as it will during the
early years of its life, it will probably never give satisfaction.
These remarks do not apply to standard trees in the orchard,
but to bush, and more especially trained, trecs in the garden.

—perw*

CHAPTER IV
Renovating Fruit Trees

WHEN trees have carried heavy crops of fruit for a number of
years they often lose vigour, and fail to yield such satisfactory
results as previously. When this is the case there are two
courses open: one is to root out the trees altogether and plant
young ones, and the other is to renovate them by replacing the
old soil with fresh material. In many cases it is desirable to
adopt the latter plan; in fact, it is often prpfitable to do so,
for trees so treated frequently take a new lease of life and pro-
duce good crops for many years. Pears, Plums, and Apples
all respond readily to this method. When it is desired to keep.
old trees for sentimental or other reasons, one can frequently
do much to improve their general health by judicious and timely
treatment.

New Soil for Old.—In the first place the soil should be
removed for some distance around the stem of the trees, right
down to the roots; it is desirable to remove it to the tips of
the roots, as the small fibrous roots are those that take up
nourishment and feed the trees. In the case of really old trees
it is not advisable to disturb the main roots; but when deal-
ing with young trees, of which the roots are in a better state of
preservation, the soil may be taken from among them. Do
not allow the roots to get dry through exposure, but have the
fresh compost at hand to fill up at, once.

After the work of excavation has been done, it remains to
fill the vacant spaces with fresh soil, and this should consist
chiefly of turf loam, although old potting soil is often suitable.
Turves cut 4 inches thick that have been stacked for some
months are the best for the purpose. They are chopped up
thoroughly with a spade, and to each barrowload is added a
sprinkling of old lime rubble and 4-inch bones; bonemeal at
the rate of a 6-inch potful to each barrowload may be added
with advantage. The compost should be well mixed in an open

15

16 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

shed to have it in a good condition, and to prevent its becoming
saturated by rain.

When all is in readiness fill up the spaces round the trees,
and tread the soil firmly as the work proceeds. Take care to
spread out the roots evenly, and any that are inclined to descend
into the subsoil should be raised. When the roots once take
hold of the new soil a great change in the growth of the trees
will be perceptible, and old specimens that have ceased to
produce good crops will soon bear regularly again.

This kind of treatment may be carried out in a modified
degree even with trees that fruit regularly. Ifa layer of 3 inches
of soil is removed, and a topdressing applied, the trees or bushes
will benefit proportionately, and if the work is done early, the
manurial properties of the compost will be washed down to
the roots before the spring.

Improving Orchard Trees.—There is not much doubt that
these are more neglected than trees growing in gardens. One
of the most important matters is to keep the soil free from
grass immediately over the roots, for it is found that grass
checks the growth and vigour of the trees very considerably.
If the trees do not thrive, the turf should be removed for a
distance of 3 feet round the stem so that a rich topdressing can
be applied. This space around the tree should be kept regularly
hoed and clean throughout the year to prevent grass or weeds
from growing.

It often happens that the trees are badly infested with
lichen and moss, which is objectionable, and serves to harbour
a variety of harmful insect pests. When nothing has been
done to destroy these parasitic growths for a number of years,
the trees should be well sprayed with caustic alkali winter wash,
for which the formula is. fiven i in another chapter. Choose a
calm day for the operationyy so that the spray will not blow
about, and take care to rea@hy every part of the branches. This
preparation, if properly vapplied, will destroy all obnoxious
growths on the trees, a d they will present a far more healthy
appearance in spring, while the wash will destroy the cee
of insects that it touches.

It frequently happens that fruit trees reach a non- silesboative
state owing to injudicious pruning. In some cases they have
been cut back hard year after year, and the chief results have
been the production of a quantity of vigorous growene but very

Young Apple Trees on the Paradise Stock

18 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

few fruits, especially in the casa of Plums and Pears. These
growths should be thinned out rather than removed entirely.
Retain the better placed ones, and shorten them to about one-
third of their length. As a result fruit buds will form, and
more fruit will be obtained. When dealing with trees of this
description, root pruning will do much to restore them to fruit-
fulness. Severe branch pruning is useless, for it only results
in rank growths at the expense of fruit.

The management of bush trees, especially Apples, some-
times presents difficulties after the trees have been established
ten or twelve years, and have filled their allotted space. A
plan which answers admirably is to leave a side shoot when
summer pruning, about 18 inches below the top of each branch,
and in the winter shorten back the branch to this growth, which
should be pruned to one-third of its length. The trees will
thus be kept clear of one another, and the operation can be re-
peated as necessary, taking care to cut back to a different point
each time. The advantage of shortening back the branches in
this way will be apparent, for otherwise thick clusters of spurs
form at the extremities of the branches. This is unsatisfactory,
and the fruits decrease in size, as it is not possible to encourage
fresh growth, which is so essential. It is common to see trees
that have failed to produce satisfactory crops, and means are
often necessary to bring about the desired improvement.

Root pruning will often work wonders. In. other cases,
however, it is well to saw off the branches to within 2 or 3 feet
of the main stem. After this, pare the cuts over with a sharp
knife and dress them with gas tar. The trees so treated will
make vigorous growths, which must be duly thinned out and
pruned, and in a year or two fine fruits will be produced on the
young wood. Apples and Pears succeed under this treatment,
and there are many trees that would be improved if taker
in hand on the lines recommended. As a general rule, large trees
and those of ungainly proportions will derive most benefit by
having the branches headed back;

CHAPTER V
The Pollination of Fruit Blossoms

Tus is a subject which attracts greater attention as the years
pass. There can be no doubt as. to its importance. Unfortu-
nately experiments on a large scale have not yet been carried
out, so that it is not possible to give a complete list of self-fertile
and self-sterile varieties; but the following notes, which were
contributed recently to Popular Gardening by an amateur fruit
grower, “J. Ursy,” who has himself carried out the experiments,
will no doubt prove of assistance to the reader :

For many years it has been known by a comparatively

few observers and experimenters that a large number (probably
the majority) of the varieties of Apples, Pears, Plums and Cherries
cannot produce fruit without the cross-pollination of their
respective blossoms with those of other varieties. When this
happens. to be the case the variety under consideration is said
to be “ self-sterile ’—the word sterile being used in its broad
sense of inability to produce fruit. If, on the other hand, the
blossom can produce fruit without the introduction of pollen
from another variety, it is termed “ self-fertile.” Such being
the state of affairs, it is quite possible to introduce into a planta-
tion a variety of, say, Apple which stands little or no chance
of ever fruiting; such chance becoming less if there are but
few varieties in or near the enclosure. Instances have been
recorded of large, one-variety plantations which for many years
have failed to produce fruit notwithstanding favourable blossom-
ing and weather conditions. When, however, a small number
of other suitable varieties have been interplanted and blossomed,
the barren brought forth fruit. In this connection the follow-
ing extract from the catalogue of Messrs. Reasoner Bros., of
Florida, is of interest: ‘“‘ Plums seldom, if ever, bear well when
isolated ; the fact is the flowers need cross-pollination from
vigorous sorts. . . .” . ;

The matter of an affinity for self-sterile blossoms is not one

19

20 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

of male and female flowers, which would be quite easy to under-
stand. It is more difficult of explanation. Why is a self-
sterile blossom so incapable? Its ovaries become fertile when
strange pollen is introduced: its pollen can fertilise strange
ovaries.

It is not Nature which is at fault; rather it is man’s inter-
ference with Nature, either when he deliberately produces cross-
bred varieties or when he perpetuates freaks which Nature
would soon have squeezed out of existence. Man having intro-
duced a new variety, e.g. Cox’s Orange Pippin, perpetuates
it by grafting or budding. Nature perpetuates from seed,
but Cox’s Orange Pippin grown always from seed very soon
reverts to something very different, and in course of time pro-
bably retrogrades to Pyrus Malus or some other wild Apple
which will assuredly be as self-fertile as the popular cross-bred
Cox is self-sterile.

Nature has various agents for pollenising fruit flowers, but
of these bees are far the most important, because unlike other
insects they carry the pollen from flower to flower and tree to
tree, whereas the various flies, wasps, etc., are unable to do so
to any appreciable extent. These latter may indeed help in
pollenising self-fertile blooms by shaking off the pollen, just
as a camel-hair paint brush might do. Wind has no great
pollen distributing and carrying power.

It should be noted that if a self-sterile flower a is fertilised
by the pollen of a self-sterile flower B, it does not follow that
B can be fertilised from a—the affinity need not be mutual,
though it often is, and it is obviously desirable that it should
be so.

From what has been written above it may appear that there
are many obstacles in the way; but in practice this is not so.
The writer’s garden contains seven varieties of Plums, twenty-
five of Apples, and fourteen of Pears, all of which bear fruit
freely except one, viz. Catillac Pear, which seldom bears any-
thing, and will continue to be an unprofitable tree until an
affinity is found and provided. Since neighbouring gardens
in no way help, it follows that the necessary affinities must .
be present, though in some cases unknown as such to the owner.
Many of his varieties are self-sterile.

It may be added that many affinities have yet to be discovered
and many varieties have still to be classified as fertile or sterile.

Apple Lord Grosvenor, a good cooking variety

—

22 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

To find affinities involves making a large number of experiments,
but testing for self-fertility is much easier. If this last were
done for every well-known aad desirable variety a great advance
would be made. Let it be once for all estabiished whether
any particular kind be self-fertile or self-sterile and no furthet
tests in that direction will be required. Attention can after-
wards be concentrated on finding affinities. One swallow does
not make a summer, nor do one dozen experiments prove any-
thing, but the cumulative value of results obtained by inde-
pendent experimenters wofking carefully would be very great.
Some experimenters appear to have found affinities for certain
varieties which being self-fertile do not require them; perhaps
the self-fertility was not well marked.

Apples.
Self-fertile Self-sterile
1 Baumann’s Red Reinette 12 Allington Pippin (16), (36),
2 Ecklinville Seedling (37)
3 Golden Spire 13 Annie Elizabeth
4 King of Pippins 14 Bismarck
5 Kerry Pippin 15 Bramley’s Seedling (18), (8)
6 Lord Grosvenor 16 Beauty of Bath (12), (18), (21)
7 Lord Derby 17 Byford Wonder
8 Newton Wonder 18 Cox’s Orange Pippin (7), (10),
9 Potts’ Seedling (12), (15),- (16), (29), (30),
10 Stirling Castle (32), (34), (35)
11 Washington 19 Grenadier (7), (28), (31), (33)
20 James Grieve (10), (18)
21 Lane’s Prince Albert (7), (10)
(16), (19), (25)
22 Lord Hindlip
23 Mére de Ménage (34)
24 Northern Greening
25 The Queen (1)
26 Worcester Pearmain (18)
27 Wellington
Used for Cross-pollination
28 Crab. 33 Hoary Morning
29 Devonshire Quarrenden 34 Lady Sudeley
30 Duchess’s Favourite 35 Langley Pippin
31 Early Victoria 36 Ribston Pippin
32 High Ganons 37 Summer Golden Pippin

ci

POLLINATION

Self-fertile
1 Conference
2 Duchesse d’Angouléme
3 Durondeau
4 Doyenné Boussoch
5 Hacon’s Incomparable

OF

FRUIT BLOSSOMS 23

Pears.

|

|
,

|

Self-sterile

6 Beurré Clairgeau

7 Beurré Diel

8 Catillac (19)

9 Clapp’s Favourite

10 Doyenné du Comice (21)

11 Louise Bonne de Jersey

12 Pitmaston Duchess (8), (11),
(14)

13 Souvenir du Congrés

14 Williams’ Bon Chrétien (15,)
(17), (18), (20)

Used for Cross-pollination

15 Beurré Easter
16 Beurré Giffard
17 Duchesse d’ Angouléme

Self-fertile
1 Czar
2 Denniston’s Superb
3 Damson

4 Early Favourite (Gisborne’s)

5 Early Transparent

6 Early Myrabelle

7 Golden Transparent

8 Kentish Bush

9 Monarch ~

10 Magnum Bonum Red
11 Magnum Bonum White
12 Oullin’s Golden Gage
13 Pershore

14 Prince Engelbert

15 Reine Claude Violette
16 Reine Claude de Bavay
17 Victoria

18 Warwickshire Drooper

18 Fertility

19 Josephine de Malines
20 Le Lectier

21 Winter Nelis -

‘Plums.

Self-sterile

19 Black Diamond

20 Bradley’s King of Damsons

21 Coe’s Golden Drop (1), (2).
(6), (9), (15), (37), (38). (39),
(40), (44)

22 Coe’s Violet

23 Cox’s Emperor

24 Curlew

25 Early Greengage

26 Early Orleans.

27 Grand Duke

28 Histon Gage

29 Imperatrice

30 Jefferson (5), (9), (39), (40)

31 Kirke’s Blue

32 Late Orleans

33 Late Transparent (5)

34 Mallard

35 Old Greengage (1), (9), (37)
39)

36 President
37 Pond’s Seedling (1)

24 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

Self-fertile

Self-fertile
1 Florence
2 Kentish Morello
3 Late Duke

4 Morello

5 Napoleon

6 Rundles

7 Turk

Plums (continued)

Self-sterile

‘ $8 Prune d’Agen

39 Rivers’s Early Prolific (1), (9), .
(26)

40 Reine Claude d’Altham (21),
(22), (30)

41 Sultan

42 Stint

43 Washington (37)

44 Wyedale

Cherries.

Self-sterile
8 Ambe Bigarreau (5), (7), (13),
(18)
9 Black Tartarian

, 10 Burg d’Annay
' 11 Bigarreau Napoleon
| 12 Elton Heart (13), (19)

13 Frogmore Bigarreau (7), (8)
14 Knight’s Black Eagle (7)
15 Knight’s Early Black (14)

16 Kentish

17 May Duke

18 Old Black Heart (4)

19 Rivers’s Early Black (8)

20 White Heart

In the above lists, which are lamentably incomplete, the °
numbers within brackets indicate the serial numbers of the .

ascertained affinities.

Among the self-sterile kinds are included

some which are so feebly fertile as tw be practically sterile.
Joe’s Golden Drop would appear to be rather a light-o’-love ~

among Plums.

No universal fertilisers have yet been found. If such there
be they will probably be wild fruits such as Crab-apples, Sloes,

etc

CHAPTER VI

Increasing Fruit Trees

Tue three chief methods adopted for the propagation of fruit
trees are budding, grafting, and taking cuttings. Budding and
grafting are commonly practised in dealing with Apple, Pear,
Plum, Cherry, and others, while such bush fruits as Gooseberry
and Currant are increased by cuttings.

Budding Fruit Trees is an interesting operation which is
best carried out during the months of July and August. The
j exact time depends largely upon the weather; for in addition
4 to having the buds in right condition, it is most important that
the sap should be flowing freely in the stocks, so that the bark
can be easily separated from the stem to allow the insertion of
the buds. Wet weather encourages the flow of sap, and there-
® fore a period when wet conditions prevail should, where possible,
_ 4, be chosen.

The stock usually employed for Pears is the Quince; those
_@ for Plums are the common Mussel, the wild Bullace, the seedling
M@ Plum, and the Myrobalan Plum: For Apples the Paradise stock
is used, whilst the best stock for Cherries is the Gean or wild
Cherry. For Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines the Mussel,
Brussels, and Brompton stocks will be found satisfactory.
The selection of the buds is a matter of considerable import-
@ance ; they should be neither too old nor too young. Vigorous,
healthy, medium-sized wood of the current season’s growth
‘Mshould be chosen, that which is turning brown (a sign of maturity)
‘@being the best, whilst the buds should of course be plump and
_ @prominent. Having obtained the growth containing the buds
emove the leaves, leaving half an inch or so of the stalk ac
each bud.

To cut out the buds a sharp budding knife should be used,
nd be inserted below the leaf stalk, in preference to commencing
t the top of the bud. The thin slice of wood cut away with
he bark at the back of the shield must next be asec This

Cc 25

Removing piece of Wood from back of bud (A);
a useless bud is shown at B, the “eye” haying
been removed

Bud properly inserted in Stock

INCREASING FRUIT TREES 27

requires great care, or the bud itself may be removed also.
The point of the knife should be used to lift up the end, and
then the thin slice of wood carefully pulled away by means
of the knife and the thumb. If the eye or vital part of the
bud comes away with the slice of wood, leaving a small hole
at the back of the shield, the bud is of course rendered useless,
and another must be obtained.

The incision in the stock should be just through the bark,
and of about the same length as the shield of the bud. The
cut must be in the shape of a T, and the bark on each side be
carefully raised by running the haft end of the knife down
between the wood and the bark. If the stock is in good condi-
tion the bark will part readily from the wood. The shield and
bud must now be carefully inserted and thrust well into the
incision, the bark being gently pressed round the bud; care
must also be taken not to tear or break the edges.

The buds should be well bound in position with soft string or
worsted, and room left for the bud itself to develop properly.
Growth from the bud will not be made until the following spring,
and growth produced by the stock should not be shortened
until this period. If the weather is hot and dry the trees must
be frequently sprayed, and provided with plenty of water.

Grafting Fruit Trees.—The stocks are ready for grafting
in most districts from the middle of March until early April.
It can be readily determined, however, when they are in the
correct condition by the fact of the sap rising, and the buds
commencing to swell. The stocks should always be in a more
active state of growth than the scions, and the latter have been
kept in a dormant condition by being placed in the soil under
a north wall. Trees that were cut back previously should be
again shortened a little so as to get down to sound, fresh wood ;
the cuts should be made rather obliquely so as to allow the
moisture to run off. It is important to see that the stock and
scion meet closely on at least one side near the bark, for if the
union is not perfect there is small chance of the scion growing.
The grafting tools must be sharp so as to make clean cuts, and
for the purpose a good chisel is useful.

Crown Grafting.—In tho case of fair-sized and large trees

_ that are headed back, crown or rind grafting is the most desir-

able. Make the scion about 8 inches long, and cut the lower

_ end to a point with a “ shoulder ” to it, something like a pointed

pa

ya”
¥.

MU (Gill Vyh lA
ait t t(R} \p

BAe

Fig. 1

Fig. 5 Fig. 6
Showing the various processes in Whip or
Tongue Gratting

ul

LR PT te 7

ee
K

i";
{

Cie

wry
‘ \\

Anil iyil Tuie

Fig 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 3
Wedge or Cleft Grafting

30 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

pen. The cut from the “shoulder” should be about 3 inches
long. Slit the bark of the stock to the same depth as the cut
part of the scion, lift the bark from the wood with a sharp
piece of bone, and insert the scion. Stout stems may have three
or four grafts inserted in them; always do the work quickly
so as not to allow the cut surface to become dry. When the
required number of grafts have been placed in position, bind
them up tightly with broad strands of raffia. After this apply

, { { hd
tru Co
*

Ma

Kine
Ly (fu

Fig. 2
Crown or Rind Grafting

a dressing of clay or grafting wax to keep out the wet, and keep
the grafts moist at the base until the union is effected.

Tongue or Whip Grafting is a good method for small
stocks. Remove a portion of the bark in a slanting manner,
and cut a small notch in the stock to receive a tongue-shaped
portion that is cut in the scion about } inch deep. Make both
to fit perfectly before binding them up with raffia and applying
the wax or clay. :

will take root and m

INCREASING FRUIT TREES 31

Saddle Grafting is recommended when the stock and
scion are the same size. Jn this case both sides of the stock
must be cut to make the latter wedge-shaped, while the scion
is cut to fit on this. It must be made quite secure against .
winds and storms. f

Grafting wax is a good substance to apply, and is obtained
from the horticultural sundriesman. Many prefer clay, but
this must be free from stones and grit, and should be worked up
until it is brought to the consistency of putty. During bright
sunny weather it is necessary to give it a spray over with the
syringe occasionally, to keep it from cracking.

Bush Fruits from Cuttings.—Although it is not desirable
to propagate inferior sorts of either Black, Red, or White Currant
trees, those who possess healthy trees of good varieties should
take a few cuttings each year and insert them in the open ground
in autumn. When selecting Black Currant growths for the pur-
pose of cuttings, care should be taken to avoid any trees on
which the buds are swollen or unduly large, as these in all prob-
ability are infested with the gall mite, commonly termed “ big
bud.” Growths of the past summer are best; they ought to
be as straight as possible and sufficiently long to allow the pre-
pared cuttings being from 10 to 12 inches long in the case of
Black Currants and from 12 to 15 inches long in the case of
Red and White Currants. The reason for having the Red and
White cuttings longer than the Black is that trees of the former
do best when trained with clean stems, whereas the latter are
more profitably grown as stemless bushes.

In preparing cuttings of Red and White Currants all the
buds except three or four at the top of each must be cut out,
whilst in the case of Black Currant cuttings all the buds are

‘allowed to remain. The top or unripe portion of each shoot

is removed, whilst the base is cut across just below a joint.
The cuttings should be inserted 6 or 7 inches apart in rows
12 inches from each other, the most usual method being to get
out a narrow trench some 4 or 5 inches deep and, after spread-
ing a layer of road grit in the bottom, arrange the cuttings in
position and fill in the soil, making it firm by treading—par-

ticularly about the base of the shoots.
Should the soil become loosened after frost it must be made
firm again, and if all _ well a good yearn of the cuttings
i e progress during the summer. In order

32
{
!
2
}
ss Z, ee ; ZA,
Ge fio
\ rr: 4
Y ie AGG
Lp: UZ
HY
: GY) ihpase
Showing the depth 7} ::-"~

~~
OS

at which cuttings
of bush fruits are
inserted; the
greater part of the
cutting should be YG;
benéath the soil Y

Gooseberry cutting ;
prepared by taking
out the lowest buds

(B)

FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

to provide the
young trees with
ample space for
development they
should be trans-
planted a yard or
so apart in the
autumn, say
during the month
of November.
Young Black
Currant trees
should be hard
pruned for two
successive seasons
in order to lay
the foundation of
fruitful specimens
and induce the
production of
growth from _ be-
low the soil.
When once a
good foundation

has been formed,

winter pruning
simply consists of
shortening or re-
moving weak,
badly placed.
shoots and old
branches to pre-
vent overcrowd-
ing. Young Red
or White Currant
trees need hard
pruning for two
seasons, and then
seven or eight of
the strongest and
best placed

|

>

AP see 2 pe teh erage AN OE YE REM OD. ROE Ha many wn ast Sie")

Making Goossherry Cuttings firm

after insertion

rag te
ae
ite .

oa

Tees hy Fos

ects tite te

Cuttin beat tae

Gre iar et cae t Fe
7 *n* .
+e, 25 y et a

Oh A sae
5o2y Nie oF 8,

at
y=

————

d Grit: Ls

fica

YU

Showing small, straight trench

“4
(a) suitable for

The buds must not be removed

from Black Currant cuttings,
shoots, as
shown, will not be forthcoming

otherwise necessary

cuttings of

Bush Fruits

34 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

branches should be selected for forming a spur-trained clean-
stemmed bush.

The Raspberry is easily increased by means of suckers—
shoots which spring up round about the parent plant. They
may be transplanted in early autumn or ‘at almost any time,
and if kept moist will soon become established. Each sucker
ought to be taken up with a few roots:

Raising fruit frees from seed is usually an unprofitable pro-
ceeding for the amateur, unless he wishes to attempt to raise ©
new varieties. Seedling Apples, Pears, Plums, Cherries, and
Peaches do not bear fruit for many years, unless they are grafted
or budded upon a suitable stock, while even bush fruits take
several years to reach the fruiting stage.

CHAPTER VII
Forms of Fruit Trees

THERE are many forms of fruit trees, and the amateur who is
not conversant with them may well be excused if sometimes
he is bewildered.

Standard.—Everyone knows and recognises a standard tree, .
of which the branches are at the top of a stem of greater or less
height. A half-standard is one in which the stem is consider-
ably less tall than the full standard; it is to be commended
for small gardens. Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries chiefly
are grown as standards and half-standards.

Bush and Pyramid,—The commonest forms of fruit tree
are the bush and pyramid. The bush has no pronounced cen-
tral stem, the branches arise from towards the base, and the
centre is therefore more or less open. The pyramid, on the
other hand, has a distinct, central stem, and the branches arise
from it at intervals throughout its full length. As the stem
increases in height so, too, are more branches formed. The
Apple is commonly grown as a bush; Pear is supplied as a
pyramid, and the Plum either as a pyramid or bush.

Cordon.—A cordon tree is suitable for planting against a
wall, espalier, or trellis. There are single cordons having only
one stem, double cordons having two stems, and treble cordons
having three stems. Further, there are upright and oblique
cordons ; in the former the branches are upright; in the latter
they are slanting. There are also horizontal cordons, in which
the branches are trained in a horizontal direction; these are
very useful for planting alongside the garden walks. The
horizontal cordon may be single, having one branch only, or
it may be double, in which case it possesses two branches, one
on each side of the short stem. Apples and Pears, together
with Gooseberries and Red and White Currants, are most
commonly grown as cordons. Apples only are, as a rule, grown
in the form of horizontal cordon.

85

eunid 0} 104M (p) ‘Yo yno
aq 0} sayduBig (9) : dar], eddy P[O-1804-0M |,

“>?
owt Ailnts

eunid 0} o104M (q)
‘poppng osoym (8) 2993 7L addy uspreyy
$7: Gea a SL

<-— —-M 91 LN0ay- — >=

7
+
7
-";
/
4

y's 3%? r ee ~~ -~
a é i 2 * ~
+ ” Ke eo on sf se % cord SEs,

SCS STE ENTS aT
-

a Lid Vth s.% “4
ea,

*, “4- ms J is SONS: * wt is

Horizontal Cordon Fruit Trees. Correct planting and staking (A)
and incorrect (B) are shown

rg ee we ee

A
~ \ |
\ |
DS \
\ At\
\ \ a
\ GY
\*¢
\¥
MA
mh)
A 7

¥ wy?
willis,

ae \ ae ND re

\\ jr
eer

Showing suitable trellis for horizontal

Double Cordon Fruit Trees trained

Cordons

on arch

“~ -
4 jee
a ——.. Yj i i —
ik ee
Zs
2-2 deen . = -_ ”
va y

Branches of horizontal Espalier of Pear Tree ; the
branches are pruned at (f) in winter

<
_

Double Cordon Fruit Trees on Wire Support

On this page are shown at A a
single upright Cordon; at B a
double upright Cordon; at C a
a J. triple or toasting-fork Cordon; at
nee 7 D a double oblique Cordon; at E
a single oblique Cordon

A single horizontal Cordon is eben at F, and a double
horizontal Cordon at G

oooaoa——_-” -— —_—_— i ee ce ee

ee _—

The left-hand sketches illustrate at A a Maiden, the cross

line indicating where to prune to train it as a single Cordon;

the result of the training is shown by the dotted line B.

On the right hand is shown at A a young Apple or Pear

Tree, the cross lines indicating where to prune to train it
as a double Cordon, shown by the dotted lines B

This sketch shows at A a young Tree, the cross lines
indicating where to prune to train it as a toasting-
fork Cordon, depicted by the dotted lines at B

This sketch shows at A a young Tree, the cross lines B indi-
cating where to prune to train it as a single horizontal
Cordon, shown by the dotted lines in C, whilst the cross
lines D indicate where to prune to train it as a double hori-
zontal Cordon, shown by the dotted lines in E

FORMS OF FRUIT TREES 43

Espalier.-—The chicf forms of fruit trees grown on walls,
in addition to cordons, are horizontal espaliers, in which the
branches are in successive horizontal tiers, each tier about
18 inches above the other ; and fan shaped, in which the branches
radiate from the centre and base of the tree. Pear, Plum, and

-_—=

A typical pyramid Pear Tree: the winter's pruning
is to the po‘nts marked e

44 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

Apple may be obtained as horizontal espaliers; while Cherry,
Plum, Pear, Peach, and Nectarine are commonly grown as
fan-shaped trees. |

An economical method of planting a wall with fruit trees
is to arrange tall-stemmed standards between fan-trained trees.
Thus the former will furnish the upper part of the wall, while
the latter fill the lower part. As, in due course, the fan-trained
trees increase in height, the standards are removed to make
room for them. The standards must therefore be planted
with the view of utilising the upper wall space until the lower
trees shall need it,

OHAPTER VIII
Summer Pruning

SuMMER pruning does not appear to be practised by amateurs
generally ; their Apple, Pear, and Plum trees particularly, and
especially those planted against a wall or espalier, would be
greatly improved thereby. The object of summer pruning is
to prevent the trees from making excessive and useless growth
and misusing energy which might otherwise be diverted towards
perfecting the buds for another season, namely, those at the base
of the shoots. The work consists in pinching or cutting off
the ends of the side shoots that form on the branches. It is a
mistake to do the work too early, or the trees continue to form
a number of secondary shoots which have again to be pinched
off as soon as they have formed one or two leaves. If the prun-
ing is not done until late in July, fewer secondary shoots will be
produced afterwards than if the pruning is done some weeks
earlier.

Trees growing against a wall will need attention first, for
in that position growth is naturally more advanced than on
trees in the open garden. The opportunity ought to be taken
at the same time to cut off shoots for which there is no room,
for they crowd the trees and prevent light and air reaching the
buds. If amateurs would pay greater attention to the dis-
budding or removal of superfluous growths, and to summer
pruning, there is little doubt that their trees would benefit ;
generally speaking, fruit trees are much too crowded with growths.

Summer pruning ought undoubtedly to be practised on
Apple, Pear, and Plum trees, and on all those grown in the form
of espaliers or cordons. If time permits, it may with advantage
be practised on Gooseberries, Red and White Currants grown
as bushes, though with these fruits summer pruning is rarely
carried out systematically. Cherries, too, especially those
growing against a wall, ought to be summer pruned.

It is not advisable to complete the summer pruning of a

45

Summer Growths after being shortened

If Side Shoots subsequently
form, they, too, must be

“ stopped ”

How the Shoots are Pruned
in Winter

Wrong Way of Summer
Pruning. The shoots have
been cut too severely

Showing how the Buds

at the base of the Shoot

start into growth if

Summer Pruning is too
severe

48 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

tree in one day; the work should be gradually done, and the
whole pruning be spread over a period of several weeks, whilst
a commencement should be made at the top of the tree and the
uperation carried out downwards. In this way a severe check,
which would most probably cause the fruit to fall prematurely,
is avoided.

For the purpose in question fruit trees can be divided into
two sections—namely, those which fruit more or less on spurs,
as, for instance, the Apple, Pear, Plum, Sweet Cherry, and
Apricot, and those which produce their fruit on shoots made
the preceding year, as the Nectarine, Peach, and Morello Cherry ;

Summer Pruning of Shoots at ends of Branches. The upper
Sketch shows the appearance of the Shoots before Pruning ;
the lower Sketch subsequent to Pruning

SUMMER PRUNING 49

in the latter cases little summer pruning is required beyond
cutting out weak growths and thinning out others where they
are too crowded. Bush and Pyramid Apple, Pear, and Plum
trees do not need summer pruning so closely as cordon and
wall-trained trees, whilst Apple and Cherry trees should not
be so strictly dealt with as Pears and Plums, more license being
allowed and the growth of more young shoots permitted. Estab-
lished Apple trees invariably produce numerous shoots having
a plump bud at the end. These will bear fruit and should not
therefore be interfered with. The leading growth of the various
branches should not be shortened at the summer pruning.
Reference to the sketches that accompany this chapter
will no doubt render this explanation of one of the most im-
portant practices in fruit cultivation clear to the reader.

CHAPTER IX
The Apple

Tue Apple is perhaps the most useful, and certainly one of the
most profitable, hardy fruits. Itis by no means difficult to grow
successfully ; if the trees are given proper care and attention,
fine crops of handsome fruits will be obtained. It is advisable
to select for the trees a position that is sheltered from cold winds,
yet exposed to full sunshine; a low-lying situation should be
avoided if possible, as there the blossoms are more liable to be
damaged by late spring frosts than on higher ground.

The best soil is deep loam, resting on a well-drained subsoil ;
but Apples can often be grown successfully in various kinds of
soil with ordinary care. Before planting, it is important to
cultivate the whole ground thoroughly to a depth of fully 2 feet.
This is far better than preparing separate holes for the trees,
as it ensures much better drainage and a free percolation of water.
If the ground is in good condition, having been manured regularly
for previous crops, no manure should be added at the time of
planting ; but if the land is poor and in a somewhat exhausted
condition, a dressing of decayed farmyard manure may be dug
in with advantage.

The best form of tree for the amateur to plant is the bush
tree on the Paradise stock ; they should be planted 12 feet apart
each way. Standard apples are budded on the Crab stock, and
should be planted 30 feet apart for a permanent orchard. When
this is done the space between may be filled with dwarf trees or
bush fruits until the standards attain a large size. Bush Apples
will be found more satisfactory for small gardens, for they
commence to bear fruit when young.

Apples also succeed as espaliers, which may be planted along
the side of walks, and as cordons. In cold districts choice dessert
varieties succeed admirably as cordons when planted against a
south or west wall; they then produce fine fruit of good colour
and flavour.

50

THE APPLE 51

In the cultivation of fruit trees on meadow land it is important
to keep the ground clear of grass round about the stems; for a
distance of 3 or 4 feet from the stem the soil should be kept hoed
and free from weeds. Grass has a retarding influence on growth ;
if it is allowed to grow on the soil near the trees, these develop
very slowly and take a long time to make large heads.

Tree in following year,
months after budding, showing two summers’
cross line showing growth

where to prune

The best time to plant is in November, but this work may be
done between then and the end of March, provided that the
weather is mild and the ground free from excessive wet, frost
and snow. It is far preferable, however, to get the work done
early in autumn, for the trees then become well settled in the soil
before the season of growth starts. .

Pruning requires a certain amount of care, but in the case of
young trees it is a safe rule to prune hard, so as to form a good
foundation. Take care to cut to an outside bud, especially in
dealing with varieties of upright growth. Opinions differ as to

~

_§2 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

whether Apple trees should be pruned the first season after plant-
ing or left for a year. In the case of bush trees, espaliers and
cordons, first-year pruning is certainly to be recommended,
and generally in the case of standards also. The only exception
to the rule is when standard trees are planted late in the season,
say, during February or March; even then the expert grower
favours early pruning, but the amateur would be on the safe
side in leaving the trees alone for a year, and then to cut them
back. Vigorous growth would then be fairly certain, which
might not be the case if pruning was carried out the first season,
especially if the summer was hot and dry. Any very weak
shoots are cut out, and the main growths are shortened to about
a foot in length.

After two or three years’ hard pruning to form a good
foundation of branches, standards will not need to be cut back
so much ; in fact, a judicious thinning of the branches, removing
any that would cause overcrowding, and those that cross over
one another, is all that is necessary. An occasional branch may
require to be shortened a little to maintain uniform develop-
ment, and to ensure a shapely tree.

In the case of bush trees the main growths are shortened as
already described, and the side shoots are pruned back to three
buds from their base to encourage the formation of fruiting
spurs. ‘The procedure is the same every year until the space
at disposal is filled. At that time it is well to leave a shoot
- about 18 inches below the end of each branch when summer
pruning, and in winter cut back to this. By this means
young shoots are kept in the trees, and an accumulation of spurs
at the ends of the branches, brought about by constant and
hard cutting back, is avoided.

Certain varieties of Apples require special treatment; Irish
Peach and Cornish Gilliflower are good examples. The fruits are
chiefly produced at the ends of the branches, consequently the
growths must not be shortened back, but merely thinned out,
some of the longest and most ungainly shoots being cut out.
These varieties may be pruned fairly hard for the first two or
three years and then allowed to grow fairly freely. Worcester
Pearmain also crops much better if not pruned too hard, and
is most satisfactory grown as a free bush.

The pruning of cordons and espaliers is not difficult;
the leading growths are cut back to about 12 inches in length

I . . . 7 e LL
iy LL v
q 3 U yf po hf p } >| p
d
I V
P
q
}
. En

we
Fie
' ; Sere

peels Zuioq 19}3ye 1vaA ouO sa1y, o[ddy

THE APPLE 55

each year until the space at disposal is filled, and the side growths
are pruned to three buds from the base to encourage fruit-

‘spurs.

The summer pruning of Apples deserves careful attention,
as it helps the fruit by admitting sun and light, and assists the
development of fruit-buds and the ripening of the shoots. Sum-
mer pruning should not be done too early, or secondary growths
will form, and this is not desirable. The ideal time is during

ow

Apple Tree two years old. Prune at a

ioe |

late July and early August, but in late seasons vigorous trees
might be left for another week or so with advantage. At this
pruning the side growths are cut back to five leaves from the
base, and the leading growths are just shortened a little. In
the case of young trees it is often necessary to leave additional
growths to form branches, but this must be done judiciously to
avoid overcrowding. It is very important to keep the branches
thinly disposed, so that the sun can shine right through them
and reach the fruits on the inside branches. Due regard must
be paid to this matter when pruning and forming the trees.
When fruit trees have been pruned too severely, and, as 4
result, have made a quantity of vigorous shoots that produce
little fruit, the best plan is merely to thin out the growths by

Apple Lane’s Prince Albert

Apple King of the Pippins

Wig i"

YO ew ee oa atte ee aie ae, ee a A

THE APPLE 57

cutting away those that can best be spared, and shortening the
remainder by one-third of their length. If this is done and
the trees are carefully root pruned in autumn, they will probably
commence to bear good crops.

When Apple trees are heavily laden the fruits should be
thinned in June. A crop of large Apples is then obtained, but
if the fruits are left in clusters many of them will remain small

Old Horizontal Espalier showing young
growths developed by cutting back
older branches

and be of little value for home use or for market purposes. Such
trees derive much benefit if thoroughly watered with liquid
manure, and the fruits will be improved. If a mulch of short
manure is given it helps to conserve moisture in the soil ; freshly
planted trees should be mulched after planting or in spring.
Spraying in February is a preventive against insect pests.
Many old orchards in which the trees are covered with moss
and lichen would derive much benefit from such treatment, and
if the work was repeated once in three years the trees would
E

—

58 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

be kept in a far more healthy and productive condition. Caustic
Alkali winter wash is recommended for use in this case, and if
carefully applied so as to reach all parts of the trees it will kill
the moss and lichen and destroy all insect pests that it touches,
Attention to this matter will well repay the grower for his trouble.

Varieties of Apples are very numerous, but a compara-
tively small number of the best will maintain a good succession
of fruit. Mr. Gladstone is a good dessert variety ready for use
at the end of July and early in August; the fruits are of medium
size, sweet and juicy, and marked with crimson; the tree is a
free bearer. Next we have Langley Pippin, a really good early
Apple of comparatively recent introduction; the fruits are of

>

— A ey, te

a Typical trained Apple Tree, suitable for espalier or wall. Prune

at cross lines. A, B, B show lines of future branches

—

ear

Ps SPS ype Me Oe: 7

THE APPLE 59

good size, sweet, and striped with red. Beauty of Bath is an
even, round fruit, ripe about the same time ; the quality is good,
and the trees crop well.

Worcester Pearmain never fails to please ; its free cropping
qualities and fine appearance make it popular, though the flavour
is not first rate. James Grieve is ripe in September and October ;
it is an Apple all should grow. It crops freely, is a vigorous
grower, and the rich yellow fruits are crisp and juicy. King of
the Pippins ripens in October, and remains fit for use for many
weeks, This variety crops well, and the somewhat conical
fruits are dull yellow flushed with red; the flavour is good.

Cox’s Orange Pippin is perhaps the most richly flavoured of
all dessert Apples ; it is at its best in November and December,
although it often keeps in good condition until March. It is a
fair cropper, of medium size, and well grown fruits are very
handsome. It deserves a south wall, where it should be grown
as a cordon.

Allington Pippin is a useful variety and a good bearer. The
fruits are of medium size, pleasantly streaked with red, and are
inclined to be “sharp” in flavour. In Adam’s Pearmain we
have a very valuable late Apple, fit for use at Christmas and
onwards. It is conical in shape, marked with red on the side
next the sun, and is particularly sweet and crisp. Claygate
Pearmain is a fine Apple of handsome appearance, and the
flavour is first rate. Court Pendu Plat is a useful late variety,
with round, slightly flat fruit. It blossoms quite ten days later
than most other Apples, and usually escapes the spring frosts.
Sturmer Pippin is ready for use in February, and will keep until
May. The fruits are of medium size, marked with crimson, and
are brisk and sweet in flavour.

Among cooking Apples Lord Suffield is particularly good
for early use. It is a very regular cropper, and the fruits can be
gathered at the end of July. In some soils it is rather liable to
canker. Lord Grosvenor is a free bearer, and should be grown
where Lord Suffield fails. The fruits are large and pale yellow;
Grenadier should be included in every collection; it is large,
cooks well, and crops very regularly. It is in season during
August and September. Stirling Castle is a full bearer, and
usually requires much thinning. The fruits are round, greenish
yellow, and are ready early in October. Warner’s King is still
@ necessary Apple in its season, October and November. The

AjoLIvA Zuryoos poos wv * Fuljpseg uoyuippoyT 30 addy s.suojs

THE APPLE 61

fruits are very large, and cook well. If it cankers in certain
soils, Tower of Glamis should take its place. Bismarck is a very
fine fruit, large and richly coloured, while it bears well, and cooks
splendidly. Rev. W. Wilks is a particularly fine Apple, and
is good as a cordon or bush tree. It bears very regularly,
rg the fruits are large. Blenheim Orange is suitable for cooking
and dessert, and is a fine Apple when at its best. Standard trees
are long in commencing to bear fruit, but bushes on the Paradise
stock fruit much more quickly.

‘ J

Young Standard after a year’s growth:
cc, where pruned after planting; d d,
young shoots doubled in number

62 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

Lane’s Prince Albert rarely fails to produce a crop of fine
fruits; the latter are flushed with red on the sunny side, and
are fit for use from November to March. Bramley’s Seedling
will keep even later, and it makes a splendid standard, or a
free bush. Established trees crop freely, and the fruits are large
and handsome. In Newton Wonder we have a particularly fine
Apple, it will keep until May, and cooks unusually well. All
should grow this variety; its large fruits are produced freely
on young trees. Annie Elizabeth also merits a place, and it
will keep as long as the foregoing. The tree is vigorous and
hardy, and the large fruits are flushed with deep crimson on the
exposed side.

‘
i, om

ee

_

CHAPTER X
The Cherry

Few fruits are more appreciated than Cherries, and they can be
grown successfully in small gardens, as they lend themselves to
various methods of training. Cherries prefer loamy soil that is
naturally well drained ; land that is fairly rich in lime is suit-
able, though this material can be added in the form of lime rubble.
In the case of heavy, clayey soils it is advisable to add a good
dressing of basic slag and old lime rubble when preparing to plant
the trees.

Bush-trained Cherries are suitable for small gardens; this
fruit may also be grown as a standard and espalier. One
advantage of the latter type of tree is that it can be grown by
the side of a walk and takes up very little space. Probably the
best fruits of dessert varieties are grown on walls, and the trees
succeed on almost any aspect. In favourable localities those
on north and east walls are a great success

Morello Cherries are nearly always grown on a north wall,
and a better tree for the position cannot be found. Fan-trained
trees are the best for walls, and may be planted from 15 to 20
feet apart. Early autumn planting is to be preferred, and the
trees should be pruned the following February. Cut back the
growths fairly hard the first year, taking care to cut to a plump
wood bud on the upper side of the branch. Train the lower
branches out horizontally on each side, and allow the others to
rise gradually upwards ; but do not have a central stem ; if the
trees possess one cut it out, the centre will fill up in a year or
two.

The Pruning of established trees is best done early in winter,
as the buds are not then so likely to be injured and gumming
will be less probable. In the case of sweet Cherries shorten back
the leading growths by one-third of their length, and prune
the side growths to three or four buds from the base of each.
Morello Giection are treated differently, as they bear fruit on the

63

64 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

growths made the previous season ; consequently, it is essential
to keep the trees furnished with such growths. They should
be trained at 6 inches apart all over the tree; superfluous
- shoots and worn-out branches should be cut right out at their
base.

Standard trees of both Morello and sweet Cherries are best
cut back fairly hard for two or three years; subsequently, when
well-formed heads have been developed, little pruning is required
beyond a judicious annual thinning of the branches. Young
trees that grow with undue vigour should be carefully root pruned
in the autumn.

The summer pruning of sweet Cherries is done early in July.
In the case of trees on walls and bushes in the open, cut back
the side growths to five leaves from their base, and just shorten
the leading shoots a little. Black fly frequently attacks Cherries,
and the trees should be syringed with quassia extract in May to
check this pest. It is often necessary to repeat the spraying to
ensure the foliage remaining clean and healthy. Do this in the
evening after the sun is off the trees, and syringe them well
with clear water the next morning.

Trees bearing full crops need to be frequently watered in
hot weather, especially those growing against walls, and in most
gardens it is necessary to net them when the fruit is ripe for
protection against birds.

Good Varieties.—There are a number of good varieties,
and of these Early Rivers is one of the first to ripen; the fruits
are black, sweet and tender, and are often ripe at the end of
June. Elton follows a little later; the fruits are pale yellow
and freely produced. Governor Wood is a sweet and juicy
Cherry, ripe in July; the fruits are yellow, mottled with red.
May Duke is a large red Cherry, ripe at the same time—an
abundant bearer. Black Heart is a very popular variety, and
makes a good standard or bush. Bigarreau is a fine Cherry,
ripe late in July; the fruits are red, and richly flavoured ; it is
a suitable Cherry for market purposes. Bigarreau Napoleon is
a large fruit, firm and juicy, and is a good variety for orchard
vlanting. Late Duke is a large red Cherry; it ripens in the
middle of August. White Heart is a popular variety ; the fruits
are sweet and pleasantly flavoured.

Of early varieties Black Tartarian is one of the best-to grow
on a wall, where it is often ripe at the end of June.

|
|

——— ee ee a ee

THE GHERRY 65

Morello Cherries are chiefly used for cooking purposes ; they
_ usually crop very freely, and are ready for use from August
until October.

The Morello Cherry succeeds as a standard as well as
against a wall. This fruit is one of the comparatively few
that may be grown with great success on a wall facing
north; amateurs pee walls of that description cannot
plant ‘them more profitably than with the Morello Cherry.
Fan-trained trees are best. It is rarely that this Cherry
fails to bear a satisfactory crop, and the fruits, while liked
by some as dessert, are invaluable to all for culinary

purposes,

\

CHAPTER XI
Red, White, and Black Currants

Rep and White Currants need similar treatment, so they may
be considered together. They are usually grown as bushes
in an open part of the garden, or as cordons trained against
a wall facing north or east, or against a trellis in the open. These
Currants are especially useful as cordons, and in this form are
strongly to be recommended to the amateur. They are con-
venient to attend to, and bear fruit freely. Red and White
Currants thrive in ordinary soil; bushes should be planted 5 or
6 feet apart. October and November are the best months
for planting.

When they are grown as cordons it is advisable to practise
summer pruning, which consists in pinching off the ends of
the side shoots in July, at about 5 inches from the base. Winter
pruning is performed by cutting back the side shoots to within
one or two buds of the base. When the Currants are grown
as bushes, summer pruning is rarely practised, but it is never-
theless advisable.

The bushes derive considerable benefit from a mulching of
manure forked into the soil in spring. Otherwise they need
little attention except that the ground must be hoed frequently
to keep down weeds.

Birds often play havoc with the fruits, and the only way
to prevent their attacks is to net the bushes. Obviously it is
far more convenient to protect a row of cordons than a plot
of bushes, and this is an additional recommendation for growing
the Currants in that form.

Good varieties of Red Currants are Champagne Red, Raby
Castle, and Fay’s Prolific. White Currants to be recommended
are White Dutch and White Transparent.

Black Currant.—This is an accommodating bush, and
will thrive in a somewhat partially shaded situation if no better
can be found for it. Nevertheless, providing the ground is

66

a

A typical Red Currant Bush is
shown at A, the branches thinly

disposed
A standard of Red Currant is
figured at B
Ip ;
if) F
| )
gh yi
D we
|
1 of y
} tf
Wt f bfx
I v,
| VJ

yj Pruning the Black Cur-

' f : 4a, h
Bush of Black Currant at D. 4% ge he : ge PN
Young shoots are encouraged i a

1
i
f

to cut out
to grow from the base

Pruning Red Currant: prune shoots as at i;
prune leading shoots as at j

——

Black Currant two years old: e e, where
to prune; f, bush after pruning

CURRANTS 69

p and loamy, the Black Currant may be grown to perfection
|the open. In light soil and a sunny spot it is liable to suffer
9m drought and is then unsatisfactory.

_ The Mite or Big Bud has proved one of the most serious
mies of the Black Currant during recent years, and it is of
ye greatest importance, in purchasing bushes, to ensure that
ey are free from this pest. Early autumn is the best time
planting, and the bushes ought to be not less than 6 feet

The pruning of the Black Currant is different from that
eeded by the Red and White Currants; the branches must
ot be cut back to form spurs. The finest fruits are produced
y the shoots of the previous year’s growth, and pruning should
e directed to cutting out the old stems to make room for the

= Ree

,
sewn od

Red Currant two years old: prune at g;
S hh, clean stem to height of 12 inches

70 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

fresh ones, the tips only of the latter being cut off. Many
amateurs scarcely ever prune their Black Currant bushes, with
the result that growth becomes weakly and the bushes get
crowded with useless shoots; the crop of fruit then is meagre
and the fruits are small.

One of the finest varieties of Black Currant is Boskoop—
Giant; other good ones are Naples, Seabrook’s Black, and’
Mammoth.

CHAPTER XII
The Fig

To be successful in the cultivation of Figs it is necessary to
keep the trees furnished with sturdy short-jointed growths,
and this can only be done by growing them in a border where
the roots are restricted. If Fig trees are allowed an unlimited
root-run they will make growth freely, but fail to produce a
crop of Figs. This refers to trees under glass and in the open.
Supposing the trees are grown against a wall, which is the
usual practice, a border 4 feet wide and 2 feet deep is sufficient
in size forthem. It should be enclosed at the bottom and front
by stone slabs fixed in cement or concrete to keep the roots
confined to that space. The bottom of the border ought to
slope a little to the front to carry off excessive moisture, and a
3-inch drain pipe should be laid along the bottom to carry off
the water to a convenient outlet. Over the stone place a layer
of brickbats covering the entire bottom, and on these put old
turves grass-side downwards. The bulk of the border should
be made up of good loam, which has been cut and stacked for
some months; this should be chopped up, old mortar rubble
and coarse charcoal being mixed with it. If the compost is
made firm and trodden well round the roots at planting-time,
the trees will make sturdy growth, which is so essential to suc-
cess.
Planting may be done in November~-or at the end of
March ; but in cold districts it is advisable to protect the tree
in winter by thatching with: straw or covering with sacking,
which may be removed late in March or early in April.
Pruning.—Well-developed young trees will not need prun-
ing the first year, and all that is necessary for some time is to
temove those growths that would cause overcrowding. Old
trees often present more difficulties, especially if they have been
neglected. The object is to keep all parts of the trees furnished
with young fruit-bearing shoots, and such should be trained
71

72 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

in about 6 inches apart, certainly not closer. When pruning, —
which should be done early in April, cut away as many old
shoots—those that have fruited—as can be replaced by young
growths. Always allow a certain number of young shoots to
develop from the base of the trees. When growth has com-
menced, remove any young shoots that are seen to be superfluous
and are not wanted for the furnishing of the trees, and, later
on, fasten the remaining growths to the wall or trellis. As a
general rule, it is not necessary to “stop” the growths of out-
door Figs during summer, but when the trees are inclined to
be very rank in growth it is wise to pinch out the points when
the shoots are 15 inches in length. If these matters are given
every attention, very little winter pruning will be found
necessary.

It should be understood that the growths must not be
shortened at the winter pruning, but laid in full length; those
that are removed should be cut out close to the branch from
which they grow. Outdoor Figs ought to be grown against a
south or west wall. When they carry full crops, give them
diluted manure water at the roots, and mulch the trees to keep
the soil moist. When growth is vigorous and the trees fail
to bear fruit, root-prune them carefully in the autumn, as
this will check rank growth and induce fruitfulness. The
most satisfactory variety for planting out of doors is Brown
Turkey.

The Fig Under Glass.—Borders for Fig trees under glass
are prepared in the same way, and the remarks about pruning
hold good also. It is necessary to syringe the trees freely when
they are started into growth, and a temperature of 55° is sufli-
cient at night in the first place. Those grown for an early crop
require very little air at first, but due attention must be given
to watering, taking care to use water in a tepid state. Disbud
superfluous growths as the shoots develop; those that are re-
tained should be “ stopped ” above the sixth leaf. This assists
the development of the second crop.

Later on, more air may be given, especially when the fruits
are ripening, and at that time syringeing must be discontinued.
If red spider gains a hold on the leaves, syringe the trees with
salt water after the fruits are gathered, and syringe regularly
with clear water until the second crop comes to maturity. Dc
not allow the trees to suffer for want of water, and give liquid

THE FIG : 73

manure to those carrying heavy crops. The growths must be
carefully regulated and tied in during summer, but superfluous
shoots should be suppressed to avoid overcrowding and to admit
the light that is so essential to the development of a good crop
and well-matured growths.

The Brown Turkey Fig is just as suitable for cultivation
under glass as out of doors. Others to be recommended are
Bourjasotte Grise, and White Marseilles, though neither is to
be preferred to Brown Turkey.

CHAPTER XIII
The Gooseberry

THE Gooseberry is a favourite fruit with amateurs, and not
without good reason, for as a rule it crops freely, is easily man-
aged, and the fruits are useful both in a green state and when
ripe. The bushes thrive in ordinary soil that has been deeply
dug and with which some yard manure is mixed. November
is the time to plant; the bushes ought to be at least 5 feet
apart. Deep planting should be avoided; if the uppermost
roots are covered with about 2 inches of soil, that is sufficient.
It is necessary to make the soil thoroughly firm about the roots.

Pruning.—The Gooseberry bears fruit both on spurs and
on shoots of the previous year’s growth. Spurs are short,
stunted growths that develop when side shoots are pruned to
within one or two buds of the stems each winter. Some growers
prune all the side shoots of the Gooseberry in this fashion, but
it is a mistake to do so. Whenever there is room, some of the
best shoots of the previous year’s growth ought to be left two-
thirds or #hree-quarters of their full length; they will, as a rule,
bear fruit freely, and, moreover, the fruit so obtained is of fine
quality. :

The branches must be kept well apart from each other, at
such a distance that the hand may be passed through them
conveniently. Unless the branches are sufficiently wide apart
to allow air and light to reach the buds, the bushes are not likely
to thrive. One often sees Gooseberry bushes that are so crowded
with shoots that the work of gathering the fruit becomes a
matter of difficulty. In pruning, care should be taken to remove
branches that are so low that when laden with fruit they will
drag on the ground and so render the fruit useless.

It is usual to defer the pruning of Gooseberries until early
February, owing to the damage done to the buds by birds.
Useful protection is afforded during winter by tying the branches
together with stout string, making bundles of them into which

74

THE GOOSEBERRY 75

the birds cannot penetrate. Sprinkling slaked lime and soot
on the branches while they are moist also helps to keep away
the birds, while some gardeners stretch black cotton between
the branches.

Cordon Gooseberries.—Gooseberries are admirably adapted
for cultivation as cordons, and in this form may be trained
against a wall facing east or north, or planted against a trellis
in the open. They are easily attended to, pruning is simple,
and the fruits can be netted and gathered without difficulty.
Summer pruning can then be practised with ease. This con-
sists in pinching off the ends of the side shoots when they are
about 5 inches long. At the winter pruning the shortened
shoots are still further pruned to within one or two buds .

Making a Gooseberry Cutting a D
Goose

berry

76 KFRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

of the base, as in pruning the bushes. I am sure amateurs
would find this a most profitable way of growing Gooseberries,
and a large number of plants can be accommodated in a small
space. rs Sf
During the summer months the ground between the bushes
ought to be hoed frequently. In spring, after pruning, it should

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80 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

be well forked over, and a dressing of manure may then be given
with advantage.

A rather novel way of obtaining a few extra fine Goose-
berries is to stand one or mofe saucers of rainwater on an in-
verted box or pot of suitable size so that the selected berry or
berries can be arranged to allow the tips to dip in the water.
Each branch containing the selected berries should be secured
to and steadied by a stake. The berries will feed on the rain-
water, which will assist swelling and development. Goose-
berries, particularly when ripe, are best gathered when they are
quite dry.

Gooseberry trees must be kept free from caterpillars by hand-
picking or by dusting the bushes with lime or soot, which causes
the insects to fall to the ground.

Gooseberries in Pots.—The Gooseberry bush bears fruit
freely even when small, and thus may be grown in tubs or large
flower-pots—those 12 inches wide at the top are suitable. The
plants should be potted firmly in good loamy soil, a little basic
slag and bonemeal being mixed with the compost. A few
pieces of broken flower-pot must be placed over the hole in the
base of the tub or flower-pot to ensure proper drainage. October
and November are the best months for the work. Both during
winter and summer it is advisable to plunge the pots to the
rim in ashes for the sake of protection from frost and to prevent
the soil becoming dry quickly in summer. Careful attention
to watering is required during summer ; it is important to keep
the soil moist. During winter the rains will, of course, supply
all the moisture necessary.

Good Varieties.—There are innumerable varieties of
Gooseberries of different colours to select from, and both small-
and large-fruited sorts. The following form a selection of the
best sorts having small fruits. Red: Ironmonger, Keen’s Seed-
ling, Red Champagne, and Warrington. Yellow: Champagne
Yellow, Yellow Sulphur, and Golden Gem. Green: Greengage,
Green Gascoigne, and Langley Gage. White: Whitesmith.
Large-fruited sorts.—Red: Crown Bob, Dan’s Mistake, Lanca-
shire Lad, Speedwell, and Whinham’s Industry. Yellow:
Keepsake, Langley Beauty, Gunner, and Leveller. Green:
British Queen and Plunder, White; Antagonist, Careless,
Shiner, and Transparent. |

CHAPTER XIV
The Loganberry and other Berried Fruits

During recent years the Loganberry has become very popular,
and has been widely planted. This is scarcely to be wondered
at, for it is particularly easy to grow and invariably bears a
good crop of large berries. Though some people like them as
dessert fruits, most of us prefer them when cooked or made
into jam. The Loganberry is a hybrid between the Raspberry
and the Blackberry; the fruit is similar in appearance to a
large Raspberry, but, unlike this fruit, the Loganberry does not
part cleanly from the core. The aim of raisers of new berried
fruits has been to do away with the hard core of the Logan-
berry, and this has been accomplished.

The latest, and possibly the best, of the comparatively new
berried fruits is called the Laxtonberry. This is the result of
a cross between the Loganberry and Superlative Raspberry,
and the fruits may be pulled off as clean as those of the Rasp-
berry. The raisers describe it as an enlarged Raspberry,
with the flavour of the Raspberry and the vigour of the Logan-
berry. Other modern berried fruits to be recommended are
the Lowberry, Newberry, King’s Acre Berry, and Hailsham-
be

rry.
Then there is the Parsley-leaved Blackberry, a splendid kind
_ which bears regularly a heavy crop of large Blackberries of
excellent flavour. Even the common Blackberry is worth
growing in the garden, providing a good form of it is obtained.
The fruits are much finer under cultivation than in the hedgerow.
All these fruits need similar treatment so far as their cul-
tivation is concerned, and that is of the simplest. The best
crop and the finest fruits are produced by one-year-old stems ;
that is to say, by those that developed during the previous
summer. Pruning therefore takes the form of cutting out the
old branches, those that have borne a crop of fruit, as soon as
the fruit is gathered ; the fresh stems of the current season’s
81

82, FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

growth are tied in to take their places. Fresh growths are
produced abundantly each summer, so freely, in fact, that
it is usually necessary to remove some of them. No other
pruning is required, except that in spring it is advisable to
shorten the fresh stems very slightly if they are weak or soft
at the tips.

All these berried fruits thrive in ordinary soil, and are most
accommodating as to position. They may be grown in out-
of-the-way corners, wherever there is support for the branches,
or against a shed or rough trellis, but they are so prolific and
so valuable that it is worth while giving them rational cultiva-
tion. They do very well if planted in the open garden against
a trellis of wire or wood on which the long branches may be
trained. When grown in this way the gathering of the fruit
is facilitated. They may be trained over an arch or arbour
or pergola, and then are both useful and ornamental. In fact,
these berried fruits may be grown in the same way as rambling
roses and other vigorous climbers and in similar positions,
except that it is not wise to plant them against a warm wall ;
this is far too valuable a place for them, and, moreover, they
ao better in the open garden.

CHAPTER XV
Melon Growing

MELons are among the most delicious and refreshing of summer
fruits, and are appreciated by everyone in hot weather. Very
good Melons can be grown in a frame, with but little trouble
and at small expense, by anyone who will carry out the simple
directions in this chapter. :

A hotbed should be prepared in April, and should be com-
posed of equal parts of strawy stable manure and leaves, pre-
ferably those of the Oak. Mix well together and make up the
hotbed in a position fully exposed to the sun; the frame is
then placed on the top. The hotbed ought to be large enough
to extend for 18 inches all round outside the frame; it should
be quite 3 feet deep at the back and just over 2 feet deep in
front.

Insert a thermometer in the hotbed, and when the tempera-
ture has declined to 90°, sow the seeds separately in 3-inch
pots and plunge the latter in the frame.

Raising the Seedlings.—As soon as the young plants
appear, syringe them lightly with tepid water in the morning
and afternoon. At this early stage very little air is needed,
and none should be admitted to the frame unless the tempera-
ture exceeds 80°. In the meantime prepare the soil for the
plants ; this should consist of 3 parts of old turf loam, chopped
into pieces about the size of a pigeon’s egg, and 1 part well-
decayed manure. About two barrow loads to each frame-
light will suffice at first, and this should be placed in the form
of a ridge in the centre, with just a little to cover the rest of
the hotbed.

When the plants are nicely rooted in the small pots, plant
them out on the mounds, two beneath each light. After growth
has commenced, and the plants are about 6 inches in length,
pinch out the tips to encourage the formation of side shoots.
These should be spread out and allowed to cover the surface

83

84. FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

of the frame. When roots appear on the top of the soil, give
a light top-dressing of loam, and press it down firmly. Do not

allow the plants to suffer for want of water at any time; always —

use tepid water.

Ensuring a Crop.—Superfluous side growths must be
pinched out when quite small; if they are allowed to grow
and a lot of shoots are cut away at one time, it causes a check
and is liable to do much harm to the plants. When the fruits
form pinch the growths at the first leaf beyond the fruits; any
further shoots that form should be removed. Always endeavour
to set three blooms on a plant at the same time; if this is not
done the fruits grow unevenly, and the later ones usually fail
to swell satisfactorily. The blooms are “ set” by fertilising the
female flowers with pollen from the male flowers, and this should

be done at midday when the atmosphere is dry. At this period ©

the morning syringeing ought to be discontinued, but when four
fruits have been set on each plant, continue to syringe twice daily.
Close the frame in the afternoon early or late according
to the weather, but so that the temperature will rise to 95°
shortly after the frame is closed. If the frame is shut half an
hour or so before the sun ceases to shine upon it, and the plants
are freely syringed, the fruits will swell rapidly. At this period
of growth diluted liquid manure may be given the plants with
great benefit twice a week; or a little artificial fertiliser can
be sprinkled on the surface soil and watered in with clear water.
When the Melons commence to ripen admit rather more air,
and as they turn colour less water should be given. It is, how-
ever, important to keep the foliage fresh until the fruits are
cut, otherwise the flavour of the Melons is not so good.
Melons can often be grown in a frame without a hotbed if
strong plants are obtained to plant out early in June, and every
advantage is taken to close the frame fairly early in the after-
noon, so that the temperature rises by natural warmth. Late
crops ought to be grown in a frame heated with hot-water pipes ;
only in this way can the fruits be ripened properly.
Varieties for the Frame. Hero of Lockinge is one of the
best Melons for a frame; the fruits are of good size, round,
well netted, and have white flesh. The Peer is a fine variety
with pale green flesh, and is of delicious flavour. Blenheim
Orange is a scarlet - fleshed variety that can be highly recom-
mended.

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86 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS _

Melon Growing in Glasshouses. ‘The treatment of —
Melons growing in a classhouse does not differ much in the —
essential details from that deseribed for plants grown in a_
frame. A hotbed is beneticial, and upon this the border of
loamy soil is made up. In this case it is preferable to use the
turves intact, placing them on the hotbed in two Jayers and
toa width of from 20 inches to 2 feet. Turves that have been

cut for about six months are the best, and they should be about ~~

finches thick. On the top place mounds of loamy soil, in
which a little well-rotted manure has been mixed, to encour-
age free growth. When, ina few days, the soil has become warm,
put out the Melons, which should be sturdy, young plants
in 43-inch pots. Let the plants be put about 18 inches apart.

The Melon plants are restricted to a single stem until the
top of the trellis is almost reached, when the tip of each plant
is pinched out. Side growths then form and bear fruit. The
work of fertilising, stopping the growths at the first leaf beyond
the fruit, and svringeing the plants, is carried out as described
for plants i in adrame. Admit a little air by the top ventilators
when the temperature exceeds 80°, and keep the plants suit-
ably supphed with tepid water af the roots, giving less as the
fruits ripen,

Biminence will be found an excellent Melon for this method
of cultivation. It is a targe, oval fruit, beautifully netted,
and has sweet and juley white flesh. Superlative is a very
tine searlet-fleshed variety, and a handsome fruit.

If the plants are carefully grown there will be no trouble
from red spider; but if this is detected on the leaves, spray
the plants with weak salt and water.

Canker is not so easily dealt with, for there is no real cure.
If the stem is attacked dust the diseased place with powdered
lime. Plants frequently succumb if attacked near the base,
and if will be found that the disease is more prevalent in some
soils than others. The chief preventive is to build up sturdy,
short-jointed plants; these rarely suffer from canker,

CHAPTER XVI
The Peach and Nectarine

On ty those whose gardens are in fairly mild districts can hope
_ to grow the Peach and Nectarine out of doors successfully
and even there this fruit needs the shelter of a wall facing either
west or south. Ordinary loamy soil is suitable. Before plant-
ing takes place the border ought to be deeply dug, lime rubble
or basic slag being freely dug in. If the soil is at all poor,
half-decayed yard manure may be used also; this, however, is
not usually necessary. Young Peach trees generally grow too
vigorously during the first few years after planting, and to
make the soil rich is to aggravate the evil.

Planting is best done in October or early November; the
roots must be spread out as much as possible, and the upper-
most ones ought not to be covered with more than 2 inches
of soil. It is wise to prepare the border a week or two before
planting takes place, so that it may settle to its normal level.
The soil must be made firm about the roots; it is fatal to success
to plant fruit trees in loose soil.

Pruning.—The pruning of the Peach and Nectarine is per-
fectly simple. The fruits are produced upon the shoots or
branches that formed during the previous year; in pruning,
the old branches—those that have already borne a crop of
fruit—are cut out, and the fresh shoots—those that will
yield the following year—are trained in to take their places.
The best time for pruning is as soon as the fruits are
gathered.

Training is a matter of importance. The best form of
Peach and Nectarine tree is that known as fan shaped, in which
the branches radiate from the centre and low down in the tree.
A well-shaped tree is not obtained—or at least retained—with-
out some care, but it may be ensured if another important
task, that of disbudding, is attended to.

Disbudding consists of removing superfluous shoots in early

87

88 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

summer. These arise upon the branches of the previous year’s —
growth in such numbers that there is not room on the wall to
accommodate them, and a large proportion must be removed.
If the amateur realises that the young shoots allowed to remain
will form the branches of next year, to replace those now bear
ing fruit, he will have an excellent idea of the way in which |
disbudding ought to be carried out. When the work is finished
there should remain not more tan two, or possibly three, frésh
shoots on each of the older ones. All the others must be rubbed

Part of Peach Tree, showing
pruning of old shoots at e to
make room for young growths

off, though not on one occasion. Disbudding should be prac
tised at intervals of a week or ten days, and is generally com-
pleted in about three weeks or a month. Care must be taken
to leave a good shoot at the base of the old branch, or as near
the base as possible, otherwise the lower part of the tree will
get bare and unsightly. There must be another shoot
at the top of the branch, and if there seems to be room for
one more, another may be left towards the middle of the
branch.

As the summer progresses the young shoots grow very rapidly

PEACH AND NECTARINE 89

and often become branched, but all subsidiary shoots must be
cut out so that only the original one remains.

As the fresh shoots grow they must be loosely tied to the
_ trellis, to nails in the wall, or to older branches, purely as a
_ temporary measure to prevent their being broken in high winds
and to keep them straight, until they can be nailed to the wall
_ to replace those bearing fruit; the latter will be cut out as
: soon as the crop is gathered.
4
;
:

Thinning the fruits needs attention, especially if the crop
is a heavy one. It should not be practised too early, for pro-
bably many of the small fruits will fall off in due course. Let
them be at least as large as Walnuts before the final thinning
is given. The fruits ought eventually to be left in such

numbers that there is about one to each square yard of wall

area.
Watering is usually required during hot, dry weather, for
as the trees are planted against a wall the soil there does not
get the full benefit of rain that falls. Indeed, it often happens
that when the open part of the garden is quite moist the soil
at the foot of a wall is dry. Dryness at the root is often the
cause of the fruits falling off in large numbers; it is also a con-
tributory cause to attacks of red spider and thrips, two minute
insect pests which do great damage to the foliage of the trees
and seriously weaken them. When the fruits are swelling,
watering once every ten days or so with diluted yard manure
does much good. It is equally important to see that the
trees do not suffer from lack of water in late summer and
autumn; if this attention is neglected the buds may fall in
spring.

To assist the fruits to ripen and to colour well it is a good
plan to press back or to take off a few of the leaves that shade
them. Peaches and Nectarines require to be gathered very
carefully ; if they are squeezed or roughly handled a bruise
will soon show and decay will set in.

Good Varieties.—A few of the best varieties for amateurs
are: Stirling Castle, Royal George, and Violette Hative. Good
Nectarines are Early Rivers, Elruge, and Pineapple.

Peach and Nectarine Under Glass.—The preparation of
the border is of great importance; it should be made in the
same way as is detailed in the chapter dealing with the Vine.
Care must be taken to make the soil thoroughly firm round

G

u

90 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

about the roots when planting, which is best carried out in October
or November.

So far as disbudding and pruning are concerned, the advice
given in connection with these fruits out of doors is applicable.
As the shoots progress they must be tied down to the trellis,
otherwise they will grow towards the glass, and may become
scorched or bent. After the fruits are gathered, and throughout
autumn and winter, the glasshouse in which the Peach trees
are planted ought to be kept perfectly cool; the ventilators
should be left open day and night, unless the weather is
frosty.

When the trees are leafless an opportunity should be taken to
cleanse them by syringeing with paraffin emulsion made by dis-
solving a pound of soft soap in a little hot water and adding
sufficient hot water to make 2 gallons of liquid; a wineglassful
of paraffin is then poured in. The mixture must be kept well
stirred when in use, or the paraffin remains on top. It is a good
plan to limewash the walls during winter; this helps to keep
down insect pests.

While the trees are dormant, some time during winter, the
branches should be taken down from the trellis, all old ties being
removed. The branches are then well syringed with Gishurst
Compound or paraffin emulsion. It may now be seen whether
too many shoots were left when disbudding was carried out.
When tied again to the trellis the branches ought to be about —
4 inches apart; they should be tied as straightly as possible
so that the tree may be made shapely. If some of the shoots
are soft and thin at the ends they should be shortened, and
any which tend to destroy the symmetry of the tree ought to
be treated similarly. —

Great care must be taken to cut the shoots immediately
above a wood bud; that is to say, one that will produce a
shoot. If the branch is shortened to a blossom bud it wik
die back to the nearest wood bud. A blossom bud is rounded,
while a wood bud is pointed; the difference is marked and is
easily noticed. |

The border should be thuroughly well watered in autumn.
If it is outside the glasshouse, no more is likely to be needed until
spring; if inside, water may again be needed before spring.
It is most necessary not to allow the soil to get dry at any
time.

PEACH AND NECTARINE gi

During hot weather in summer, when the trees are in full
leaf, the border may need watering every ten days.

Peaches and Nectarines are grown successfully under glass
without artificial warmth. The amateur should endeavour to
maintain an uniform temperature. In spring, when growth
starts it should be from 40° to 45° at night; as the season
advances it will naturally increase. In mild or warm weather,
admit a little air early in the morning and increase the amount
later on. Late in the afternoon, about half an hour before the
sun ceases to shine on the roof, close the ventilators and syringe
freely. Keep the atmosphere moist except when the trees are
in bloom and when the fruits are ripening.

CHAPTER XVII
The Pear

THE Pear as an orchard tree is long lived, though, if planted
on the Pear Stock, as standard orchard trees are, many years
pass before a full crop is obtained. For garden cultivation,
in bush or pyramid form, the Pear ought to be on the Quince
Stock ; it then begins to bear fruit at an early age, and does
not make such vigorous growth as trees on the Pear Stock
do. This, then, is the form in which the Pear should be grown
by amateurs with comparatively small gardens. The Pear
thrives in ordinary ground, though with a preference for that
which is rather light than clayey. It does not, however,
do well in really light ground, as the Cherry, for example,
does. |

Although the Pear is most commonly grown in the open
garden, it makes an excellent wall tree, and may be planted
on a wall facing south, west, or east. It is perhaps not worth
while to give up a south wall to the Pear, if Peaches and Nec-
tarines are to be grown, but it may well find a place facing
west or east. Even on a north wall the Pear does fairly well,
and for training against an espalier in the open it is well suited.

As a trained tree the Pear is usually grown fan shape or
as a horizontal espalier, in which the branches are in horizontal
tiers some 18 inches from each other. In some old gardens the
Pear has been planted to cover a semicircular wire trellis, the
trees being planted on each side and trained towards the top,
where they met. It thrives well in this way, and when the
trellis is covered it is quite attractive. Moreover, the trees
are easily attended to, for one can reach the top of the trellis
from each side. |

The Pear is suitable also for training as a cordon, and in
this form may be planted against a trellis or wall. Pyramid
Pears in the open garden ought to be put about 9 feet apart ;
fan-trained or horizontal espaliers against a wall should be 15 feet

THE PEAR 93

apart, while single cordons must be 18 inches apart; double
and treble cordons at greater distances.

Planting.—October and November are the best months
for planting. If a group of trees is to be planted, it is a mis-
take to dig holes just where the trees are to be placed; it is

Q

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Two-year-old Pear Tree pruned to form

pyramid ; g, leading shoot ; dotted lines show
growths of next summer

a

far better to have the whole plot deeply dug. A little well-
rotted manure may be mixed in towards the bottom of the
holes, though this is not really necessary if the ground is fairly
good. Basic slag is to be preferred; this may be scattered on
the soil at the rate of 6 oz. to the square yard and then dug
in. Bonemeal is also a valuable artificial fertiliser for the Pear
and other fruit trees, and may be used in similar quantity at

94 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

planting time or in spring as a top-dressing, to be forked be-
neath the soil. Firm planting is essential, the soil being well
trodden about the roots. It is a mistake to plant deeply ;
if the uppermost roots are covered with about 2 inches of soil,
that will be sufficient.

Pruning.—The pruning of the Pear tree is simple. The
first thing of importance is to keep the branches thinly dis-
posed ; they ought to be quite 18 inches apart, and preferably
rather more.. Summer pruning is important in Pear cultivation ;
in July, when the side shoots are about 8 inches long, they
should. be cut off above the sixth leaf; the leading shoots,
those that extend the branches, must ae be touched. Other
secondary shoots will probably form a few weeks after the
side shoots have been pruned, and they ought to be “ stopped ”
as soon as they have made one or two leaves.

Very often side shoots form in such numbers that if all are
left the branches will be crowded with growths. If there are
too many they ought to be cut off; the fruit spurs, which
.eventually will be formed by. the side shoots, should not be
closer together than 8 inches or so. At the winter pruning,
which is carried out in January, the side shoots are cut back
to within one or two buds of the base, and the leading shoots,

which were left untouched at the summer pruning, are shortened

by one-third or, if weak, by one-half.

If during their early years Pear trees grow vigorously, form-
ing strong branches upon which fruits do not form freely, root
pruning or lifting ought to be practised, as detailed in another
chapter.

In spring, after pruning is completed, the ground around
and beneath the trees ought to be forked over; in early summer,
after the fruits have set, a mulch of rotted yard manure is
beneficial. Care must be taken that trees growing against a
wall, and especially a warm wall, do not become dry in spring
and summer, which they are very likely to do if not watered
freely.

Varieties of Pears.—There are so many varieties of Pears
that the amateur is likely, on consulting a catalogue, to experi-
ence difficulty in making a selection. One of the most satisfactory
for amateurs is Conference; it is ripe in October, and rarely
fails te bear & good crop. Other varieties to be recommended
are: Beurré Hardy, October; Jargonelle, July, August; William’s

SINO}BUIB IOF

189q 94} Jo 9u0

‘a90uUdT1BJUOT) ABO

90 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

Bon Chrétien, September; Louise Bonne of Jersey, October ;
Beurré Superfin, October, November; Emile d’Heyst, October,
November; and Josephine de Malines, December, January.
If a warm wall is devoted to Pears, the following varieties
‘may worthily be chosen: Fondante d’Automne, September ;
Marguerite Marillat, October ; Louise Bonne of Jersey, October ;
Beurré du Buisson, December, January; Beurré Superfin,
October, November; Doyenné du Comice, November; Duron-
deau, October; Marie Louise, October. November; Winter
. Nelis, December to February. :

CHAPTER XVIII
The Plum

Te Plum 1s grown as an orchard tree in the form of a standard,
and as a bush or pyramid in the garden. It is most useful also
for planting against a wall facing west or east, and even on
a north wall is fairly satisfactory. In preparing the ground
for the Plum, which is best planted in autumn, lime rubble
ought to be mixed in the soil freely ; failing this, use basic slag
at the rate of half a pound to the square yard. The ground
should be prepared a few weeks in advance of planting, so that
it may become moderately firm before the trees are put in.

Planting.—Young Plum trees are liable to produce very
vigorous growths during the first few years after being planted ;
for this reason it is not advisable to mix any yard manure in
the ground prepared for them. The soil ought to be made
quite firm about the roots by means of treading; otherwise the
tendency to make long and useless shoots will be aggravated.

Deep planting is to be avoided; the roots must be spread
out well, and the uppermost ones should be covered with not
more than 2 inches of soil. A mulch of yard manure on the
soil above the roots in early summer is beneficial, because it
keeps the ground moist.

A look out ought to be kept for suckers—shoots that arise
from the stock upon which the Plum is budded, and spring up
around the tree, sometimes at a considerable distance from it.
They must be pulled up with as much root as possible. It is
not sufficient to cut them off at the ground level; they will
grow again in increased numbers.

Pruning.—The pruning of the Plum needs to be carefully
performed. The trees bear fruit from spurs, short stunted
growths that arise on the main branches, and they also fruit
freely upon shoots of the previous year’s growth. Whenever
there is room, therefore, such shoots ought to be preserved
and tied in. In time they will take the place of older branches.

97

98 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

In dealing with the Pear, one can safely summer prune all side
shoots above the sixth leaf, and in winter shorten them to within
about an inch of the base; but greater discrimination is neces:
sary in dealing with the Plum. Summer pruning ought, never-
theless, to be practised, though good shoots of the previous
summer’s growth should be trained in, instead of being cut
above the sixth leaf, providing they can be accommodated without
crowding the tree.

At the winter pruning, the shoots which have been summer
pruned are cut back to within one or two buds of the base in
the usual way; but those that were tied in without being
“stopped” are merely shortened by one-third. The leading
shoots of the Plum, those that extend the branches, are not
shortened at the summer pruning, but in winter one-third is
cut off the end of each.

It is almost always necessary to lift and slightly root prune
young Plum trees during the first two or three years following
planting; otherwise they make such rank growth that the
form of the trees is liable to be spoilt; moreover, such shoots
do not bear fruit. The trees ought not to be kept out of the
ground any longer than is really necessary, or the roots may
get dry; all thick roots and those that have started to grow
straight downwards should be shortened by half, and in re-
planting be laid nearer the surface. The soil must again be
made thoroughly firm round about them. It is useless to
attempt to restrict the vigorous growth of young fruit trees
by cutting back the branches: this, in fact, merely aggravates
the evil, and the trees will make more vigorous growth than
ever.

If Plum trees are carefully managed during the first few years
of their lives by treating them as advised, with the object of
preserving a proper balance of growth, they are likely to prove
satisfactory during later years.

Suitable Varieties.—The amateur may well rest content
with a limited number of varieties; of these there are many
from which to choose. For standards, bushes, and pyramids
he might choose from the following. Dessert varieties: Bryan-
ston Gage, greenish; Denniston’s Superb, yellowish green ;

Kirke’s, purple; Oullins Golden Gage, yellow; Reine Ciaude.

de Bavay, greenish. Cooking varieties: Belgian Purple, purple ;
Monarch, purple; Pond’s Seedling, pink; President, dark

THE PLUM 99

violet-purple ; Rivers’ Early Prolific, crimson purple; The
Czar, dark purple; Victoria, pink.

The following are excellent for walls, all being dessert
varieties: Coe’s Golden Drop, orange with red dots; Dennis-
ton’s Superb, greenish-yellow ; Early Transparent Gage, yellow
with brownish spots; Green Gage, greenish ; Jefferson, yellow
and green, with reddish spots; Kirke’s, purple; Transparent
Gage, greenish-yellow, with red spots.

— ————

CHAPTER XIX

The Raspberry

THE Raspberry is one of the most accommodating of hardy
fruits ; it seems to thrive in almost any soil and situation, and
to bear crops regularly, even under apparently unfavourable
conditions. It is a most profitable kind for amateurs if the
large yield of fruit and the slight attention needed are taken
into consideration.

Although the Raspberry will succeed under haphazard
methods of cultivation, the finest fruits are only to be obtained
when proper attention is given to the plants. An open place
is suitable, although a little shade is not inimical to the cultiva-
tion of the Raspberry, especially when the ground is light and
liable to get dry quickly. Deeply dug land, which has been
enriched with yard manure, is necessary if the plants are to be
grown well. Planting is best carried out in October or November.

Pruning. The chief point to observe in growing the Rasp-
berry is that the best yield of fruits is obtained from the canes
or stems that grew the previous year. As soon as the erop is
gathered, the old canes—those that have borne fruit—ought to
be cut out, the fresh stems being trained in to take their places.
On established clumps the new stems are usually produced so
freely that it becomes necessary to remove some of them. Not
more than six or eight should be left to each rootstock; then

Ee to co A

vente Loa ee WO ee

= Foe

they mature well, and the crop will be satisfactory. No further —

pruning is required, except that in spring it is wise to cut off
the tips of the stems if they appear to be soft. The same method
of pruning is observed each year, the old canes being cut out
and the new ones tied in to the supports.

The Raspberry is largely a surface rooting plant, and the
gardener ought, therefore, to be careful not to dig among the
plants with a spade, or many roots are bound to be damaged.
The soil between the clumps should be forked over in spring,
and a mulch of decayed yard manure is beneficial; it keeps the

100

Se pce mart 2 el enter ebiemen voo

If at the winter
pruning the canes
are cut to vary-
ing lengths there
will be fru't from
top to bottom,

.°-.hU[we “Toe —-

me = AA. t.. : l dh

ane
In the spring following planting it is advisable
to shorten Raspberry canes, as st:own, either
severely or moderately

~~

—

Ses —— = ue: = he. =
Showing suitable support for Raspberries: b b b, fresh stems

tied in to replace old ones: d, removing tip of stem as at c c

102 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

roots moist and cool in hot, dry weather. This is the orthodox.

treatment, though, as a matter of fact, one may plant the Rasp-
berry in any odd corner and it seems to thrive.

The Raspberry is very free in the production of suckers, as
those growths are called which come through the soil at some
distance from the parent clump. If it is wished to have an
extra number of plants, the suckers should be taken up with a
few roots attached, late in summer, or, in fact, at almost any
time, and used to form a fresh plantation. If no more are re-
quired, the suckers ought to be uprooted.

The Raspberry may be grown in clumps about 5 feet apart,
three or four plants forming a clump; in this case the stems are
tied to a central stake. Or they may be planted in rows,. the
stems being trained on wires fastened to strong posts. In
pruning newly planted Raspberries some growers cut the stems
to the ground in the spring following planting, with the object
of ensuring strong canes which will fruit well the following year.
This, however, is not really necessary with such a good-natured
plant as the Raspberry ; the canes may be left about half length
and a crop of fruit taken. There will be sufficient fresh growths
for next year’s crop if proper care is taken of the plants so far
as watering and mulching are concerned.

Good Varieties.—Good red Raspberries are Baumforth’s
Seedling, Superlative, the Devon, and Norwich Wonder. A
yellow variety to be recommended is The Guinea.

Autumn -fruiting Raspberries.—These are just as easy
to grow as the ordinary summer fruiting kinds; the only differ-
ence in the treatment required is in the pruning, and this is
important. While the summer Raspberry bears its fruit on the
canes of the previous summer’s growth, the autumn Raspberry
produces its crop on the canes or stems of the current year’s
growth. Pruning must therefore be carried out in February ;
at that time the old canes are cut down to within about 6 inches
of the ground level, the object being to force the plants to make
the finest possible fresh stems which will bear fruit in autumn.

Both red and yellow varieties of Autumn Raspberries are to
be obtained; of the former, Hailsham and October Red are
reliable, and of the latter October Yellow may be chosen.

ee

CHAPTER XX

The Strawberry

THE Strawberry is one of the easiest of hardy fruits for the
amateur to grow. It thrives in ordinarily good soil without
much attention, and its requirements are few and are met
without difficulty.

The best time to make a start is early in September. If
a few plants are then obtained, and are planted on ground
that has been deeply dug and manured, they will produce Straw-
berries for three summers. The best arrangement is, I think,
to have the rows 2 feet apart and to put the plants 1 foot apart.
After the first crop has been gathered, alternate plants in the
row are pulled up, and all will then remain at 2 feet apart. It
is necessary to plant firmly and to put the plants at such a
ag that the crown or heart will be showing just above the
soil.

The finest fruits are obtained from the first crop, providing
the plants are put out on good ground not later than early
September; many growers plant in August. The second year
there will be a heavier crop of good fruits, while the third season
the fruits will be small but very abundant.

General Hints.—The Strawberry plants need no attention
during autumn and winter, except an occasional hoeing to keep
down weeds and to ensure that the surface soil is loose. In
spring, before the Strawberries come into bloom, it is usual to
mulch between the rows and round about the plants with “ long ”
or strawy manure; the “ feeding ” properties of this are washed
down to the roots and the strawy part, which will remain, serves
to protect the fruits from being spoilt by soil splashed up during
wet weather.

If the amateur is unable to apply a mulch*of this kind,
he should take steps to keep the fruits off the ground, or
many of them will be spoilt. This is accomplished by sup-
porting the bunches of fruits by means of small forked sticks,

103

106 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

or even placing panes of glass or wood under them. The pros-
pects of a crop are sometimes ruined by late frost when the
plants are in bloom. If frost threatens when the flowers are open
it is well worth while to take steps to protect them, especially
if the plantation is a small one, by scattering straw, bracken,
or any other similar material over them for the night to pre-
vent them being rpined.

Layering.—Late in June layering must commence, if it is
wished to increase the stock; in fact, this ought to be done
every year so that there shall be fresh plants to replace those
that are pulled up. Needless to say, it is advisable to make the
fresh plantation on different ground from that on which the
old plants were grown. This,: like most other crops, benefits
from fresh ground.

The actual process of layering is well shown in the accom-
panying sketches, and is quite simple to perform. Several little
plants will be found on each of the runners or stalk-like growths
that are produced by the old plants. It is wise not to layer
more than one on each stalk, and that nearest the parent plant
is usually the best. A watch should be kept for those known
as “‘ blind” runners; that is to say, those having a defective
centre; the centre ought to be firm and full of embryo leaves.
Having selected the runners to be layered, it remains only to
peg down each one in a small pot filled with sandy soil. For
this purpose, small wooden pegs are commonly used, though
hairpins will do, or pegs may be dispensed with altogether,
merely a stone being placed upon the stalk of the runner
to keep it on the soil. Instead of layering into small pots the
gardener may peg the runners into the ground or in pieces of
turf.

The little plants will soon form roots if they are kept moist,
and in three or four weeks will be ready to remove. The stalks
attaching the runners to the parent plants are severed, and the
Strawberries may be at once planted out to form a new bed as
already described.

Growing Strawberries in Pots.—If it is intended to grow
the plants under glass for the purpose of obtaining early fruits,
the rooted runners are repotted into flower-pots 6 inches wide,
and are kept out of doors until late autumn. A suitable com-
pe for this purpose consists of good turfy loam with which a
ittle decayed manure and bonemeal are mixed. At the approach

» das) canting tapner ioe

YU
Wij

4

A,
tZ
ZY,

Lo
iy Y,

Planting Strawberry plants: a, the correct way;
b, the wrong way

Wh

An old, delicious Strawberry, Dr. Hogg

THE STRAWBERRY 107

‘of cold weather they are brought into a greenhouse or frame,
and in January or February may be placed in slight warmth
if early fruits are wanted. The temperature ought not to exceed
50° until the fruits are set, and while the plants are in bloom
as much air as is possible at that season should be admitted.

7?
> Th
\

AD AOI

<<a

3,
—

uy
yj
{=
\
Yp
A \
- me \

aS

Showing how Strawberries may be grown in a
barrel

The fraits will not form freely in a close, warm atmosphere.
As soon as the Strawberries begin to increase in size the plants
may be grown in a temperature of 60° or 65° to bring them on
quickly, but when the fruits show colour they must again have
cool, airy conditions.

It will thus be seen that the veriest amateur can scarcely fail
to grow Strawberries, and it remains only to select suitable
varieties. Probably for general usefulness there is none to excel
Royal Sovereign, though there are plenty of better fiavoured

1088 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

A young Strawberry plant ready for
planting

f

How to turn young Strawberry plants
out of the pots in which they have
been layered

Strawberries. The
amateur would do
well to rely chiefly
upon this variety,
but he might with
great advantage
try a few other
sorts also. Sir
Joseph Paxton is
an old though
excellent Straw-
berry ; Waterloo
is a large, very
dark fruit ; Louis
Gauthier is nearly
white ; Dr. Hogg
and Countess are
old varieties of
excellent flavour ;
Bedford Cham-
pion is a large,
handsome fruit;
and King George
is a good new
variety.
Perpetual-
fruiting Straw-
berries, — These
are strongly to be
recommended to
the amateur gar-
dener, for they
take up less room
than most of the
ordinary varieties,
and they bear
fruit from July
until autumn.
The plants need
only to be put
12 inches apart.

THE STRAWBERRY 109

All flower stems that show before late June should be
pinched off, then the plants will continue to fruit as stated.
These Strawberries may be increased in the same way as the
ordinary sorts, namely, by means of layers; they may be
raised from seed sown in warmth in early spring, and will
then fruit the same year. It is best to propagate annually
or biennially, for young plants are more satisfactory than old
ones.

Of the several varieties one called St. Antoine de Padoue,
pave | red fruits of quite fair size, is to be strongly recom-
mend

CHAPTER XXI
The Vine

It is the ambition of most amateurs, sooner or later, to grow
their own grapes. This is not a matter of great difficulty,
providing proper attention is paid to the needs of the Vines.
He who starts the work in a haphazard fashion must expect
nothing but disappointment; the Vine will probably become
a prey to mildew and other maladies, and to the attacks of
insect pests, and the bunches of Grapes will not be worth eating.

Good Grapes may be grown perfectly in a greenhouse that
is in a sunny position and can be freely ventilated ; no warmth
is required unless it is necessary to obtain an early supply of
fruit. It is, however, certainly an advantage in a dull, wet
season to be able to heat the greenhouse for the purpose of keep-
ing the atmosphere dry when the Grapes are ripening. Never-
theless, in an average season it is possible to bring the crop
to maturity without the aid of artificial warmth.

Making a Vine Border.—The Vines must be planted in a
properly prepared border. It does not matter whether the
border is inside or outside the greenhouse. The existing soil,
unless it is really of good quality, must be excavated to the
depth of from 2 to 3 feet. In the bottom of the hole thus formed
a layer of broken brick or clinker is placed to ensure perfect
drainage, and upon this is put a layer of old turves, grass side
downwards. The remaining space is filled with a prepared
compost, consisting of old turves, each chopped into six pieces
with a spade, together with a sprinkling of bonemeal, soot,
basic slag, and wood ashes. This may seem to be an elaborate
preparation to make, but one has to realise that the Vine lives
to an old age, and cannot well be replanted when once estab-
lished. The usual plan in forming a Vine border is to make
it 3 feet in width, and to enlarge it every few years as becomes
necessary, until the border is 6 feet wide. This is better than
making it the full width at first, because one is able to providg

110

THE VINE III

fresh soil for the roots just when they need it. In two years’
time the border may be widened to the extent of another 2 feet,
and again, at the end of a similar period, it should be enlarged
to the full 6 feet.

Planting should take place in autumn, a few weeks after
the completion of the border; this will allow time for the soil
to settle to something like its normal level. The uppermost
roots ought not to be deeper than 2 inches or so beneath the
surface, and all roots should be spread out as much as possible.
It is a great mistake to plant the Vine just as it is turned out
of the pot, without disentangling the roots. The soil should
be made thoroughly firm about the roots, and when planting
is completed the border must be watered. Take care that the
roots are well watered the day before planting.

Initial Pruning and Training.—If the Vine is one year
old only, it will be necessary to prune hard, to within 6 or 8 inches
of the base, late in January of the year following planting. One
or two of the buds, at least, will start into growth as spring
advances, and if it is intended to restrict the Vine to one stem,
the weakest of the shoots is rubbed off. Great care must be
taken of the remaining shoot, for this will form the stem of the
Vine. It should be tied to a stake for support, and, as it pro-
gresses, be tied to the trellis fixed some 15 or 18 inches below
the roof. As soon as the new stem is 6 feet long the end should
be pinched off.

The following spring the Vine is pruned back to within 4
or 5 feet of its base. Numerous buds will start into growth,
and all those between the bottom of the trellis and the ground
ought to be rubbed off, thus giving the Vine a clear stem from
the soil to the trellis. Some of the shoots on the upper part
of the Vine must also be removed. The object is to encourage
lateral or side shoots on each side of the stem at about 15 to
18 inches apart, those on one side alternating with those on
the other.

The amateur must choose the most likely shoots
for the laterals, allow them to develop, and rub off those in
between. The uppermost bud will continue the stem of the
Vine, and must be allowed to grow 6 or 8 feet in length before
the end is pinched off. The lateral shoots, on the contrary,
ought to be “stopped” at the first or second joint beyond
the bunch, or, if no bunch shows, when they are about 12 inches

112 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

long. Not more than two or three bunches are allowed to re-
main on the Vine in its first year of fruiting.

The following January the leading shoot—the continuation
of the stem—is shortened to within 5 or 6 feet of its point of
origin, and the stem of the Vine thus becomes 11 or 12 feet
long. Further lateral or side shoots will form, and they must
be regulated in the same way as those of the previous year,
which are now shortened to within one or two buds of the base.

‘
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gar

pee Z 4
Vif ae as
tA as Sa hig
i ZZ

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ST. =
pe
ge PO MOS 2
VLU AIFEEE
4 LL, te LA
Ser ae/
ise kein

Grape scissors and forked Tying up the “shoulders”
sticks used when thinning of the bunch of Grapes

If both buds start into growth, only one (that which bears a
bunch of Grapes) is allowed to remain, the other being rubbed
off. Further laterals will form on the new part of the stem,
and they must be regulated in the same way as those of the
previous year; that is to say, they must not be closer together
than 15 or 18 inches. In this way the Vine stem increases at
the rate of 5 or 6 feet each year until it reaches the top of the
vinery. Subsequently growth is restricted to the lateral or
side shoots. We may now consider the annual pruning of an
established Vine.

Annual Pruning,—In January the side shoots which pro-
duced the crop of Grapes the previous summer are cut back

THE VINE 113

to within two buds of the base. This is drastic treatnient, but
it is the correct procedure. If the two buds grow, only one
is allowed to develop; if neither shows fruit, the stronger of
the two is retained. The shoots will make quick progress
as the summer advances, and in due course their points must
be pinched off ; those bearing a bunch of Grapes are “ stopped ”
at one joint beyond the bunch, those bearing no fruit are
“ stopped ” when they have grown about 12 inches in length
In due course, further shoots, termed sublaterals, will form:
they must be “stopped” as soon as they have formed one
joint, and any further shoots that form must be treated simi-
larly. The object is to prevent the trellis becoming crowded
with secondary shoots, so that the primary growths may have
room for full development. All weakly shoots that continue to
form as the summer advances ought to be cut out or “ stopped ”
as soon as one leaf has formed.

If this work is attended to frequently the small shoots
can be removed as soon as they develop; but if it is neglected
there will be a good deal of foliage to remove, and to do this
on one occasion is harmful. By cutting out the small shoots
as soon as they have formed growth suffers no check, as
would be likely to happen if much foliage were removed at
one time.

In autumn, after the fruit is gathered, the laterals—those
that have produced the Grapes—may with advantage be short-
ened by half; this has the effect of assisting the development
of the buds at the base of the shoots. In January the shortened
shoots are hard pruned, one or two buds only being left, and
in spring only one shoot on each lateral is left to grow.

General Hints.—If the Vine is in an unheated greenhouse
it will commence to grow in March. Throughout the winter and
until growth begins the vinery ought to be aired freely, the
ventilators being left open night and day. If tender plants
are grown there, this treatment cannot, of course, be given, and
the Vine will suffer correspondingly. It is of real importance
that the Vine be kept quite cool during winter, and the ventilators
may be left open always, except during frost. The amateur
should aim at maintaining a regular temperature in the vinery,
in spring, say, from 45° to 50° at night, with a corresponding
rise during the day. When the thermometer registers 55° a
little air ought to be admitted by the top ventilators, and ij

Bunch of Grapes as

it appears when
thinned

SF

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How the Vine is
pruned in winter.
The side shoots or
laterals are cut
back to within two
buds of the base

—

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i

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nati
ee Swe

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nape
Se

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How the bunch
will appear if the
berries were
thinned properly

How the ripe
bunch of Grapes
will look if it
was insuffi-
ciently thinned

Z 2?
GE

Mgt ¥ Gg,
AH

Showing how the bunch is

held by means of the forked

stick while superfluous berries
are cut out

116 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

the day becomes hot and the thermometer continues to rise,
more air must be admitted. .

Ventilation of the Vinery.—lIt is not wise to open the
front ventilators until early summer, if the greenhouse can be
kept sufficiently cool by means of the top ventilators. Cold
winds are prevalent in spring, and it is important to avoid
draughts. If the amateur remembers that the ventilators
should be opened to prevent the temperature rising too high,
and not for the purpose of lowering it, he will have solved the
difficulty experienced by many in this direction. The rule
is to increase the amount of ventilation while the natural warmth
continues to increase, and to lessen the amount of air as the
out-of-door temperature declines. In practice the ventilators
may be left partly open all night in summer, opened wide in the
morning, and partly closed in the evening. During spring
greater care and more precise attention are required, for the
shoots of the Vine are tender and the wind is often cold and
the weather changeable. If the weather is mild, a little air
ought to be given early in the morning, the amount being in-
creased later on; in the afternoon the ventilators should be
partly, and in the evening finally, closed. The chief points at
which to aim are to avoid creating a draught, so to regulate
the ventilation that the temperature will rise gradually, and,
above all, to aim at maintaining as uniform a temperature
as possible.

When the Vines are in bloom the ventilators ought to be
opened wide if the weather is favourable. When the Grapes
are about the size of small marbles they pass through what
is known as the stoning period; at that time it is particularly
necessary to maintain a regular temperature.

Thinning the Grapes is a task that calls for attention
when the berries are about the size of small peas. A. pair of
grape scissors, having long, tapering blades, is necessary, and
a small forked stick with which to hold the stem of the bunch
is also required. All small, seedless berries are cut out first ;

then those from the centre of the bunch. The berries at the

ends of the branchlets must not be cut away, or the symmetry
of the bunches will be spoilt. The gardener should try to pic-
ture the bunch as it will be when the grapes are full grown,
and cut out the small and ill-placed ones to such an extent
that the remainder are about $ inch apart,

~+ oe

44

ay
ae
Hes

Y

Zi Weis ii
\\Y \\\\ Vi
NY

\

The Vine is increased by
means of ‘‘eyes” or
buds, which are prepared
in January by cutting a
Vine shoot in one of the
ways shown in the lower
sketch. The bud or “eye” is
placed in a piece of turf (as shown
above) or in a small pot of soil.
Ih kept warm and moist growth
will soon develop and the new
Vine will be ready to be repotted

118 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

During hot summer weather the floor and walls of the vinery
should be syringed several times a day to keep the atmosphere
moist. Vines should never be shaded, except sometimes to
preserve the fruit or to help those planted in spring to become
established. When, in spring and early summer, the ventilators
are closed late in the afternoon to encourage growth, the Vines
and their surroundings should be syringed freely. The gardener
must take care that the border does not suffer from want of
water; nothing is so likely to lead to failure as dryness at the
root. When the border is watered let it be thoroughly moist-
ened. Diluted liquid manure applied once every ten days or a
fortnight is of great benefit when the Grapes are swelling.

During winter it is advisable to syringe the Vines well with
paraffin emulsion ; loose bark, likely to serve as a hiding-place,
should be removed, and it is beneficial to brush the stems with
Gishurst Compound for the purpose of killing insect pests.
Care should be taken not to damage the buds.

The best black Grape for amateurs is Black Hamburgh.
Alicante and Madresfield Court are also to be recommended.
Of the so-called white Grapes the reader is advised to grow
Foster’s Seedling. |

Se a a ee

CHAPTER XXII
Storing Fruits

THE only fruits that can be kept for any considerable period in
a natural state (with the exception of Nuts) are Apples, Pears
and Grapes, and of these the Apple is of chief importance. Care
in gathering is necessary: even in dealing with a comparatively
hard fruit like the Apple, bruises will show quickly if the fruits
are roughly, handled.

A simple way of ascertaining when Apples are ready to gather
is to cut open one or two fruits and examine the pips; if these
are black, it may be assumed that the fruits are ready, but if
they are still white, gathering ought to be postponed. Another
plan which enables the gardener to come to a decision on this
point is to lift the fruit gently upwards, to find out whether or
not the stalk parts easily from the branch. If it does the fruit
may be considered ready, but if it does not then the fruit
should be left longer on the tree.

Apples ought to be gathered when they are dry, if possible.
Only sound fruits are suitable for storing ; those which have been
damaged by wasps or birds, or show signs of having been bruised,
should be set aside for immediate use. If stored with sound fruits
they will be liable to spoil them. If Apples are to be stored in
bulk, in layers one on top of another, it is of importance first to
spread them out for a week or two. If this is done it will be
noticed that the fruits become quite moist to the touch: they
are then said to “sweat.” If stored in bulk before “ sweating ”
has taken place, they are not likely to keep well.

Apples are best stored in a cool and somewhat moist place, .
such, for example, as a cellar or shed having a north aspect. A
thatched fruit room with proper means of ventilation is, of course,
ideal, but unfortunately all fruit tree growers are not able to
build such a store-room. Apples do not keep well in a dry,
airy loft, though that is just the place in which they are often
placed. They may be stored in deep boxes or barrels, kept in a

119

é¢ A convenient
form of ladder

is raised
gently when bein
gathered

The fruit

ing fruit

Canvas bag on long handle
for gather

Shallow trays with lath bottoms

Barrel containing
i

Apples:

ised

1s raise

t

on bricks

d on bricks

ise

box ra

in

Apples stored

STORING FRUITS 121

cool place, providing they were ‘first spread out as already
advised. It is, however, preferable to have them on shelves in
single layers, for they can then be examined conveniently and
damaged or decayed ones removed, Special trays are now made
for the purpose of storing Apples, and they are very convenient,
for quite a large number of fruits can be arranged in a small
space. They are made for placing one on top of another, but in
such a way that there is space between each tray. It is not a
difficult matter to make a tall frame into which shallow boxes
or trays will fit.

Pears are best stored in single layers, and the flavour is better
if they are kept somewhat warmer than Apples. Very late Pears
are not, I think, of much value to amateurs, for under the best
conditions their flavour deteriorates.

Grapes may be left on the Vine until quite late in autumn.
If it is found necessary to store them, they should be cut, each
with about 6 inches of stem. The stem is placed in the neck of
a bottle of water, and the bottles are fixed at an angle of about
45°, in a special framework, or by other simpler means, so that
the bunches of Grapes hang clear. If in a room facing north,
some Grapes, such, for example, as Alicante and Lady Downes,
can be kept for many weeks.

Although such fruits as Cherry, Strawberry, Plum and
Gooseberry cannot be stored, a succession is obtainable by plant-
ing in different aspects: those on a north border or against a
north wall will provide a supply of fruits weeks later than those
planted in a warm position. i

It is unwise to store Apples on a shelf
covered with hay or straw

CHAPTER XXIII
Bottling Fruit

THE practice of bottling fruit is one of considerable importance
to every possessor of a fruit garden, for by this means he is
enabled to prevent waste and to preserve the surplus for future
use. There are many ways of preserving fruit in bottles, but
all are similar in principle, though they vary in detail.

Simple Recipes.—Fruit to be bottled ought to be perfectly
sound and not too ripe; further, it must be handled carefully
so as to avoid bruising. Ordinary wide-mouthed bottles are
suitable. Probably the simplest of all methods is to fill the
bottles with fruit pressed down firmly, and to pour boiling
water on them until the bottles are filled to within an inch of
the top. Hot melted mutton fat, to the depth of half an inch,
is then poured on. When the bottles of fruit are cool, covers,
preferably of bladder, are tied tightly over them.

Another plan is to place the bottles of fruit in a warm oven,
and leave them there until the fruits begin to crack, which may
take half an hour or more, according to the heat of the oven.
It is important to take care that the bottles do not touch each
other. The bottles are taken out of the oven, and boiling syrup
is poured in until it reaches to within about an inch of the tops
of the bottles. Then comes a layer of melted mutton fat. When
cool, the bottles are covered with bladder covers tied down tightly,
and are stored. The syrup is made by mixing sugar in boiling
water at the rate of half a pound of sugar to a quart of water,
the solution then being brought to boiling point; this ought
to be done while the fruits are in the oven, so that it may be ready
for use as soon as required.

Still another plan is to pour cold syrup on the fruits when
the bottles are full, and then to place the bottles in a large pan
containing sufficient depth of water to reach to the necks. The
pan is placed on the stove and allowed to remain there until the
water boils. It is then removed and subsequently the bottles

122

\

BOTTLING FRUIT 123

are taken out, sealed with melted mutton fat, and covered as

alréady directed.

Bottling Large Quantities of Fruit.—Those who wish
to bottle large quantities of fruit would do well to obtain a

proper sterilising pan

and special bottles.

The latter have
grooved necks in which
rubber rings fit, and
metal caps which are
kept tightly in position
by means of springs.
The method of work-
ing is quite simple.
In addition to the
sterilising pan and bot-
tles, a kettle, a piece
of tubing, and a small
oil stove are required.
The bottles, having
been filled with fruit,
and sufficient water or
syrup poured in to
cover the latter, are
placed in the pan, the
rubber rings being
fixed in position, and
the metal caps put on
loosely. Care should
be taken that the bot-
tles do not touch each
other or the side of the
pan; some people
place hay among them
with the object of en-
suring that they are
separated. The kettle

| 7 — = . —————————
|
|
J
|
!

| Bottle filled with fruit and lid fastened
| with spring clip

is filled two-thirds full of water, placed on the oil stove, and
brought to boiling point by the time the fruits are ready for
sterilisation. A piece of rubber tubing is previously fixed to
the spout of the kettle and inserted in a hole made for the

124 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

purpose in the side of the sterilising pan: this is for the pur-
pose of conducting steam to the pan and so bringing about
sterilisation.

Sterilising Apparatus.—One who has bottled large quanti-
ties of fruit by means of a steriliser such as this, thus describes the
subsequent procedure: Heating proceeds somewhat slowly, about
1° a minute is the usual rate—so it takes about ninety minutes
to reach a temperature of 155°, as shown by a thermometer,
which will fit into an opening in the steriliser. When this tem-
perature is reached the lamp flame is lowered, the tubing dis-
connected, the lid of the steriliser is removed, and the cap of each
bottle is fixed by means of the spring clip. This should be done
without removing the bottles from their position, by bending
back the spring in both hands, and fitting it over the top of the
lid, being careful that both sides catch under the ridge of the
neck of the bottle, not under the rim of the lid itself, and that it
presses on the centre of the lid. Close the steriliser again,
connect the tubing, and start the water boiling. In about ten
minutes 155° will be reached again, and in eighty minutes from
this the operation will be completed ; during this time the tem-
perature should be allowed to reach 160°, but must be prevented
from rising higher by regulating the flame of the stove. Re-
move the bottles at once to a cool window sill or similar position,
and on the following day the clips may be removed, when it
will be found that, owing to the cooling and contraction of the
contents, and the consequent reduction of the interior pressure,
the lid is kept firmly fixed in position. Care ought always to
be taken to press the fruits down firmly so that the bottles are
properly filled, for they shrink somewhat. It is a good plan to
dump the bottles gently on the table several times while filling
them with fruits so that the latter may be made to settle down
well,

Froits Suitable for Bottling.—Of small fruits the most
satisfactory for bottling are Gooseberry, Raspberry and Cherry.
Strawberries are not generally satisfactory. Pears, Plums and
Peaches are well suited to bottling. Pears should be peeled,
halved and cored; Peaches also ought to be halved and the
stones removed.

The accompanying illustrations will help to make clear the
method of bottling fruit by means of the special steriliser.

The following recipes for bottling fruit with little or no sugar,

Showing the kind of bottle used, together with lid and spring clip

| a

ee

a ”
nanan 0 a

Apparatus for bottling fruits. The bottles of fruit are placed
in the steriliser (on left) and steam is introduced from the
kettle through the tube

126 ERUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

which were contributed to The Gardener by Mr. Dipnall, will,
no doubt, prove of interest :—

Bottling Blackberries (no sugar).—Fill bottles as full as
possible, place in a steamer till fruit looks cooked ; or in a sauce-
pan with hay at the bottom in cold water; bring to the boil and
boil for five minutes. Take out bottles one at a time, fill at
once with boiling water, and cover with bladders or screw-on
tops. Other fruits may be similarly treated.

Bottling Fruit (alittle sugar).—Dry the bottles, fill with ©

fruit, add 2 oz. white moist sugar to each, and one wineglassful
of cold boiled water. Tie down with two pieces of white paper.
The ‘underpiece of paper must be smeared with salad oil, and put
on oiled side uppermost. Do not fill the bottles so full that the
fruit touches the paper. Place the bottles in the evening in a
tin in the oven when it is cooling down, and leave there all
night.

Bottling Plums, an old Surrey recipe (a little sugar).—
Choose ripe Plums, prick all over with a fork, put in bottles with
a little sugar, leave uncovered till sugar is dissolved, then seal
with melted mutton fat. The fruit when used tastes as if
brandied.

Bottling Fruit (no sugar),—Thoroughly warm bottles in
oven, fill with quite sound ripe fruit, return bottles to oven till fruit
begins to discolour (about 15 minutes in a moderate oven), take
out and fill with boiling water, leaving room for a 2-inch layer of
melted mutton fat, which, when cool, seals fruit.

CHAPTER XXIV
Winter Washes for Fruit Trees

Durina November and December fruit trees and bushes which
have been infested with pests in the past season should be
treated with a strong wash of some kind, and even as a pre-
ventive against infection the action is fully justified. A good
strong wash at this time is often sufficient to eradicate pests
entirely, so that better-conditioned and more prolific trees are
the result. Those mentioned below are easily made, efficient,
and economical. In all cases the quantities given are for making
about 5 gallons of the wash.

Lime-Sulphur Wash,—Place 1 lb. of quicklime in a dish
of some kind, add a very little water, and stir it up until the
bottom of the dish is covered with the paste; now add a like
quantity of fine sulphur and enough water to give a liquid
of creamy consistency, and again stir up until the violent boil-
ing shows that the lime is slaking. Let this mixture stand
for a day, stirring it occasionally; then add sufficient water
to make 5 gallons, strain through a fine sieve and spray on
the trees. In France, where this liquid is widely employed
on Vines, Roses, and fruit trees, the lime and sulphur are boiled
together in a pot of water for half an hour, and the material ~
diluted when cool. This preparation does not scorch the foliage,
and it may be used in summer; it has a whitewashing effect
on the branches.

Caustic Wash.—Various kinds of caustic washes are used
in horticulture, but the following possesses the merit of acting
at one time as a fungicide and as a powerful insecticide. Stir
3 lb. of bluestone or sulphate of copper into } gallon of hot
water, then add 3 lb. or so of quicklime to 4} gallons of cold
water ; stir up and let both liquids stand overnight in the separ-
ate dishes. Pour the sulphate solution into the lime water,
stirring all the time, then add two large cupfuls of paraffin oil
and stir or churn the whole together. Now dissolve 1 lb. of

127

128 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

washing soda, or, better, caustic soda, in a little hot water,
pour it into the emulsion, and stir thoroughly for five minutes.
The preparation is then ready for application, and it should
be sprayed on the trees as a fine mist; protect the hands, and
do not let any fall on the face. :

Paraffin Emulsion.—This wash is easy to make and to
apply, as all the ingredients are completely soluble or in liquid
form; it is very serviceable for killing insects or insect eggs
Dissolve 1 lb. of soda, washing or caustic, in 44 gallons of water
along with } lb. of soft soap, then add } gallon of paraffin oil
and emulsify the lot until a greyish liquid is obtained. It is
to be recommended where small quantities are required, and
the cost is about 34d. per 5 gallons of wash.

Bordeaux Mixture.—Place } lb. or a good handful of
quicklime in 44 gallons of water, and stir it up; dissolve } lb.
of copper sulphate crystals in 4 gallon of hot water, and let
both liquids stand all night. Pour the blue solution into the
lime water, stirring all the time, then apply it to the trees as
a fine spray. This fungicide is the most efficient of all yet dis-
covered in horticultural science, and it is an invaluable remedy
for mildew, rust, and like pests. It can be given strong in-
secticidal properties by mixing 1 oz. of the poisonous Paris
Green with every 5 gallons of the fungicidal wash. Some
writers advocate the use of copper sulphate alone in winter
as a preventive remedy for fungoid pests; if this is preferred,
dissolve 1 oz. of copper sulphate in every 14 gallons of water,
and spray it on the trees from a brass or copper syringe or in
some other way. No iron vessels must be used with this solution.

Proprietary preparations can be had in concentrated form,
very handy and convenient for use; the advertisement columns
of the gardening papers enumerate many.

CHAPTER XXvV
Insecticides for Amateurs

INSECTICIDES have come to be recognised as a necessity in
present-day fruit growing, and the beginner has not long- made
his debut as a practical worker before he sees that they are
essential commodities. Insects abound in countless myriads
from the opening of the bud until autumn. Eradication is im-
possible, but the gardener who sets his mind to a difficult task
can, by repeated efforts in the use of substances that “ kill,”
diminish the number of pests, hamper their activity, and, by a
sort of guerilla warfare, greatly diminish their powers.
Insecticides are employed to kill the insects either by direct
contact or by poisoning their food supplies, but certain prepara-
tions possess a kind of antiseptic power in so far as they ward
off the pests in some way; all preparations used in summer.
however, must be employed with caution, for soft tissues of active
growth are susceptible to exterior irritation, and harm can be
done by too drastic measures adopted by annoyed gardeners.
Soapy Liquids adhere to insects and eventually stifle them.
Soap of any of the common kinds, but preferably soft soap,
dissolved in warm water (at about 90° to 110°) at the rate of 1 to
2 oz. per gallon, is quite a good substance to use for aphides,
greenfly, blackfly and the like, and recent experiments have
proved that what are called disinfectant soaps—Carbolic, Nap-
tha, Cyllin, Kerol, Klensol, and other kinds—are even more
efficacious than the commoner brands. Insecticides of this
nature, too, are cleansing agents that brighten up the foliage.
To prove effective, soap should actually cover the insect with a
‘thin film, but as this is rather difficult, scientists often advise
the admixture of petroleum or other oil with it; petroleum,
however, has deleterious effects on all vegetation unless in a
very attenuated form, so that it must be thoroughly mixed
with the soapy water in order to be at once effective and not
dangerous. For summer use I should not advise more than
129

130 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

one dessertspoonful in 1 gallon of soapy water, containing at
least 1 oz. of soap. Petroleum or paraffin emulsions, as they
are called, seldom “keep unless they are repeatedly churned
up or squirted out of the syringe back into the pail.

Quassia and Tobacco Solutions.—Another preparation
of a similar nature which I have found highly destructive of
insect life is made by dissolving 1 oz. carbonate of ammonia
(rock ammonia) and 5 to 8 oz. of soap in 5 gallons of water.
Quassia solutions are old and good remedies; boil } lb. of the
chips in a little water and add this to 2 or 2} gallons of soapy water
(an ordinary pailful), or else get the concentrated quassia ex-
tract and use it as directed. Tobacco water, another old remedy
which renders the foliage distasteful to insects much as quassia
does, is made by boiling 2 to 4 oz. of tobacco in 1 gallon of water ;
cigar ends, cigarette stumps, pipe residue or black tobacco
will prove best for this. Many readers may not know that the
Tobacco plants (Nicotiana) which are grown as annuals can be
utilised to make insecticidal solution. Hang them up to decay
in a moist atmosphere, then boil them for a time in water. Hot
water at from 100° to 120° is quite a useful insecticide that will
do no harm to plants.

Leaf-eating Caterpillars such as live on (Gooseberries
succumb only when their food supply, the leaves, is poisoned.
Hellebore powder dusted over the bushes acts well, but that
is rather a wasteful process ; arsenic poisons, such as Paris green
and arsenate of lead, are much better, and they can be applied
as a spray when thoroughly stirred into tap water or lime water
at the rate of 1 oz. to 4 or 5 gallons, Arsenic solution must be
repeatedly stirred up; arsenate of lead will be found best.
Soot, the household chimney variety, which has lain aside
for some time, is the best deterrent for such pests. Lime is not
of much value as an insecticide, though it can be used when no
others are available. Arsenic solutions are excellent for fruiting
trees and bushes of all kinds, but every gardener will recognise
the fact that the bushes must be syringed with clean tepid
water a few days later in order to remove traces of the poison
from the fruit. Ordinary sulphur stirred into water containing
some treacle keeps eff red spider when sprayed over their haunts ;
borax is nauseous to ants and cockroaches.

Using Insecticides.—Trees or bushes which have been
infested at any time with destructive pests are liable to suffer

INSECTICIDES 131

from a recurrence of the trouble, so that preventive measures are
justified even though no sign of the enemy is apparent ; indeed,
many gardeners consider the use of insecticidal solutions advis-
able just to make sure that no trouble comes. Apply powders
when the foliage is a little damp. Practically all insecticides,
solid or liquid, should be used when the sun is not shining
brightly. If rainy weather follows the application it may be
necessary to repeat it, but at all events one spraying is seldom
satisfactory, for few insecticides can kill the vitality of eggs not
yet hatched. Syringe lightly and often, rather than hope for
immunity by one drastic course of treatment.

The aim in using insecticides is to cover all parts with the
preparation. Dust the powders through a muslin bag or tin
perforated with tiny holes, and syringe liquids in such a way
that a fine white mist falls on the leaves like dew. Syringe from
below ; in fact this is even more important than from above, for
many pests hide on the under surfaces of the leaves, and are only
reached by liquid sprayed upwards ; keep going round the plant,
too, and syringe from all sides. Stir the liquid up now and again,
squirting some back into the pail occasionally to ensure uniformity
of composition by continual agitation of the liquor.

CHAPTER XXVI
Insect Pests of Fruit Trees

UNFORTUNATELY for the gardener, the cultivation of hardy and
tender fruits is interfered with to a considerable extent by the
attacks of insect pests, which, if not destroyed, do great and often
irreparable damage to the crops. It can scarcely be emphasised
too strongly that well-grown trees are less liable to suffer severely
from pests than those that are indifferently attended to; it is
invariably the weakly ones that are chiefly affected. Fruit trees
growing against a wall suffer to a greater extent from certain
pests than those in the open garden, and they are often predisposed
to attack by the fact of their being allowed to get dry at the root.
Trees planted against a wall do not benefit much from rain ;
in early summer, and as long as hot weather lasts, it is essential
that the soil be kept moist by watering frequently. It is astonish-
ing how dry the ground is near a wall, even in wet weather.
Dryness at the root is often the cause of small fruits falling in large
numbers in spring.

Preventive measures against insect pests should be taken
early. In fact the fruit grower ought always to endeavour to
prevent attack rather than wait until the trees are infested.

American Blight or Woolly Aphis is a pest which is
recognised by the woolly covering or cotton-like growth with
which the insects cover themselves on the trees. Apple and Pear
trees are attacked, and the insects pierce the bark and suck the
sap, the result being that affected branches become weak and
unhealthy, and, if the blight is allowed to remain, ultimately
wither away. Steps to exterminate the pest should be taken
immediately its presence is observed. Scrape off and burn the
woolly growth and loose bark, and afterwards coat the affected
plants with a strong soft soap lather to which a little paraffin has
been added. Leave this on for a few days and then scrape it
off, and afterwards wash and syringe the affected parts of the
tree with a solution made by boiling 4 lb. of soft soap in 3 pint of

182

INSECT PESTS 133

water for half an hour and then stirring in } pint of paraffin.
Dilute with water to 2 gallons before use. Repeat the washing
and syringeing two or three times and all traces of the pest should
have disappeared.

Bark crevices in which the pest has become established
may be touched with a painter’s brush dipped in paraffin. A
simple home-made wish consists of a wineglassful of petroleum
in a pail of water kept constantly agitated with the syringe
while being used. This pest also attacks the roots of the trees.
To get rid of these remove the soil and destroy as many as possible
by means of a brush dipped in the soft soap and paraffin solution.
The ground may then be watered with a wash made by dis-
solving one ounce of soft soap and one tablespoonful of household
ammonia in a gallon of water.

Aphis, or Fly.—The young shoots of fruit trees, especially
of Cherry‘and Plum growing against a wall, suffer from the attacks
of greenfly very considerably, and unless the pest is checked,
it increases to such an extent as to ruin the growth of the trees,
It is important to take measures to kill the aphis as soon as it is
noticed. The tops of shoots already badly infested ought to be
cut off and burnt, and the trees should be syringed with the
following solution: Dissolve 1 lb. of soft soap in a little hot water
and make up to 2 gallons with further hot water: then add a
wineglassful of paraffin. The mixture must be kept well mixed
when in use by returning a syringeful to the can occasionally ;
otherwise the paraffin remains on the top. This mixture is most
effective when hot water is used; it will not harm the trees, for
by the time the spray reaches the leaves it will have lost some of
its warmth. Aphides cannot be got rid of by the use of in ecticide
on one occasion only ; the spraying or syringeing must be carried
out two or three times at intervals of two days or so. Too much
stress can scarcely be laid upon the necessity of keeping the trees
moist at the root in summer; those that suffer from drought
seem predisposed to an attack from aphis. The trees derive
great benefit during hot weather if they are forcibly sprayed
with the hose once a week or so.

Apple Sucker.—Nearly everyone nowadays knows some-
thing of this pest, but those who have not yet experienced
its ill effects upon their trees may one day wonder why the
trusses of bloom on the trees have turned brown and have set
no fruit, and they may be surprised to find the flowers come

134 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

away in their hands from the trees when touched, as though dead,
When these symptoms are found an examination will most
probably disclose a number of whitish-yellow insects clustered -
around the footstalks of each flower, and from these exudes a
sticky fluid. The grower will then realise that his trees are suffer-
ing from a serious attack of Apple sucker. Spraying has been
advised to kill the egg-depositing females in the autumn.

There are one or two washes on the market which if used
at the proper strength and unsparingly applied are quite efficient
against Apple suckers. Nicotine wash is deadly against this
enemy of fruit growers, but is extremely expensive. Still, for
a small number of trees the expense is not such a serious matter.
Used at proper strength nicotine has been found harmless to fruit
blossoms when open. If avoidable it should not be used at that
stage when there are bees working. If trees have been seriously
attacked a spraying of nicotine just before the blossoms open
- and another immediately the petals have fallen will be found to
do more towards cleansing the trees than several sprayings
later when the insects are numerous and have probably done
serious damage. It is wise to use a caustic wash in winter.

Apple Sawfly.—The larvae of the Apple sawfly often make
sad work amongst crops of Apples, the loss of fruit in some cases
being very considerable. This pest is not always easily recog-
nised, as the injury caused by it to a great extent resembles
that resulting from the presence of the Codlin moth. The eggs
of the sawflies are deposited on the Apple blossom, and after an
interval of a few weeks young larvae hatch out, bore their way
into the fruit, and eat the inside. The larvae of the sawflies
enter the fruit from the side, whereas the larvae of the Codlin
moth enter through the eye and bore through the core. Aftet
a month or six weeks the grubs become fully fed and leave the
fruit and tree, and spin cocoons in the soil. The attacked Apples
rarely grow to any size and invariably fall off. All fallen fruit
énd also fruit on the trees which is seen to have been attacked
should be destroyed, whilst the pupae resulting from the cocoons
in tne ground should be also destroyed by the application of a
soil fumigant. It is also advisable to dig and work the soil
under the trees to enable birds readily to get at the pupae which
may be exposed. A dressing of kainit will often be found to do
good.

Apple Blossom Weevil.—The grub of the Apple blossom

Fruits Damaged by Apple Sawfly as at a; and
Codlin Moth at 5

Apple Sawfly (a) and
arva (b

American Blight

136 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

weevil often plays great havoc in gardens. The egg of the
weevil is laid in the flower bud and the blossom is destroyed.
oy the larva or grub. The larva pupates within the bud, and
subsequently the beetle emerges through a hole made in the
side. The weevils pass the winter on the trees, hiding under
rough bark and in other likely places, and many may be killed
by spraying the trees with a caustic wash, the formula for which
will be found on another page. All weeds round about the

When Shoots are attacked by the Black
Currant Mite the Buds become enlarged as
shown on the right, and are rendered useless

base of the tree must be removed, and a slight sprinkling of
gas lime in autumn, on the soil near the tree, is advisable.
Black Currant Gall Mite.—This causes big-bud disease
of the Black Currant, which has been known in this country
ior seventy-five years, and within the last twenty-five years
has spread all over the country; and the damage done has
been so great in some districts that Black Currant growing
has ceased. The disease is caused by the presence in the buds
of mites of the species Eriophytes ribis. As a result of the
irritation caused by the presence of the mites and the punctures
of the young leaves by the mandibles of mites in their feeding,
the buds swell greatly and become rounded in shape. If the
buds are badly infested by the mites then neither leaves nor

INSECT PESTS 137

flowers develop. The buds remain unopened, and after retain-
ing their green colour for a time, dry up and become brown.
Buds containing a smaller number of mites may burst at the
proper season, but the shoots and leaves and bunches of bloom
are dwarfed, and growth is weak.

The mites feed and shelter in the buds over winter. In a
forward season and from buds that may have been only partially
infested, the mites may leave their hiding-place in March and
infest other buds. The real migration commences about the
middle of April and is over by July. These migratory mites
are adults, and, entering new buds, make their way inwards.
Then the females proceed at once to lay eggs. The eggs
hatch in due course, and the buds show at the end of August
and in September the characteristic swollen appearance. Egg-
laying during the winter is practically nil, but eggs have been
found in all the months of the year.

The mites are practically unassailable in the buds, therefore
the migratory period is the time when treatment, to be successful,
should be given. Hand-picking the swollen buds during winter
may keep the pest in check. Hard pruning followed by the
removal of large buds has given fair results in some cases. Dust-
ing or spraying with a mixture of lime and sulphur, known as
Collinge’s treatment, is advised. This consists of a mixture of
1 lb. of quicklime, 1 lb. of flowers of sulphur, and 20 gallons
of water. Slake the lime and add the sulphur, forming into a
paste as quickly as possible; add the water and stir into a
** milk ” of lime and sulphur, making up to 20 gallons and strain-
ing before use. Alternatively may be used one part of unslaked
lime and two parts of flowers of sulphur, mixed together. The
bushes should be sprayed with the fluid when they are dry, or
dusted with the lime and sulphur mixture when they are wet,
three times—at the end of March or the beginning of April, again
at the middle of April and againin May. The quicklime and sul-
phur in dry form is liable to scorch the leaves to some extent.

Codlin Moth.—Considerable damage to Apple crops is often
caused by the caterpillars of the Codlin moth. The moths appear
towards the end of May, and the females, as they fly about from
tree to tree, deposit their eggs on the blossoms or in the “ eyes ”
of the fruit. Caterpillars hatch out and soon commence to bore
their way towards the centre of the frui+, where they feed upon
the pips. Affected Apples either fall prematurely or rapidly

J

138 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

decay when gathered and placed in the store-room. When
fully fed the caterpillars bore their way out of the Apples, make
their way to the ground, find a suitable hiding-place, and spin
cocoons about themselves, afterwards turning into pupae from
which other moths ultimately emerge.

All fallen fruit should be cleared away as soon as possible,
and also rubbish, leaves and dead wood lying about the ground.
Oilcake bags and sacking made into bands and bound round the
tree stems near the ground in July form serviceable traps, as
ascending and descending caterpillars hide in them, and when
caught should, of course, be destroyed. Spraying the trees with
arsenate of lead after the blossom has fallen, but before the tiny
fruits have turned down, is another remedy which should be
tried where the pest is known to be troublesome.

Ermine Moth.—The small Ermine moth is another cause of
damage to Apple trees. The eggs of the moths are deposited in
patches on the trees during July and August, but the caterpillars
which hatch out do not do any damage until spring, when they
bore into and feed on buds and leaves, with the result that affected
trees are considerably weakened and rendered unhealthy. The
caterpillars live together in numbers in webs spun by themselves
amongst the leaves and shoots; these should be diligently
searched for and be cut out, then being either crushed or burnt
to destroy the pests. Depositing the webs and caterpillars in a
pail of insecticide kept handy for the purpose is another simple
way of destroying them.

Gooseberry Sawfly.—The Gooseberry sawfly is very
troublesome in Gooseberry plantations and gardens, and it also
attacks Red Currant bushes. In many cases the leaves are quite
cleared off, together with the young fruit, and unless the plague
is checked it is sure to be renewed in succeeding seasons. The
colour of the caterpillar varies at different stages. At first
it is greenish-white with a black head and a few black spots,
later green with numerous black spots, and in the final stage
light green with spots.

The adults appear in April or early May. The females lay
their eggs on the under sides of the leaves close to the veins.
They are very numerous and inserted in slight incisions, sometimes
at the edges of the leaves and fastened with an adhesive sub-
stance. The eggs hatch in about six days, and the caterpillars
feed on the leaves. They soon spread over other leaves and shoots,

Apple Infested by Caterpillar of Codlin Moth at A;
at B is seen section of Apple showing how the Grub
has made its exit

140 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

and feed for about a month. Then the cocoons are spun, generally
upon, or just beneath, the surface of the soil under the infested
bushes; the cocoons of the first brood are occasionally found
upon the twigs and even leaves, as shown in the illustration.
In about three weeks the adults issue and proceed in turn to
their egg laying. There may be three generations in the year;
the cocoons of the last brood of the year are found deeper in the
ground than those of the earlier broods, and the caterpillars lie
sheltering in them until the next spring, when pupation takes
place.

It is advisable to remove a few inches of the soil from beneath
infested bushes in winter and to replace with fresh. The branches
should be sprinkled with hellebore powder in early summer,
but in this case the fruits ought not to be used in less than five
or six weeks, for this powder is poisonous. Spraying with paraffin
emulsion might well be substituted. Many may be destroyed by
hand-picking.

Lackey Moth.—tThe caterpillars of the Lackey moth form
a very destructive pest, and of cultivated fruit trees they attack
Apples most frequently. The moths are on the wing during the
latter part of summer, and the caterpillars result from eggs
deposited in rings round the shoots of the trees. The caterpillars
are hairy and rather prettily coloured. They live in webs spun
amongst the leaves and shoots, and the best time to catch them
at home is during wet and dull weather. As soon as observed,
all webs, together with the caterpillars in them, should be
destroyed ; as the rings of eggs invariably result in the produc-
tion of a large number of caterpillars, it is most important that
a sharp look out be kept—particularly at pruning time—all found
being destroyed. Shoots cut out of infested trees should be burnt,

When the leaves have fallen it is a good plan to give fruit
trees which appear unhealthy a good coat of limewash. The
limewash should be fairly thick, a good handful of sulphur being
added to each pailful. In addition to destroying insect and
fungoid pests in the cracks and crevices of the bark, a wash of
this description will remove lichen and mossy growth, but as
their presence may be due to faulty drainage, all defects must,
of course, be remedied before a complete cure can be effected.

Pear Midge.—The larvae of the Pear Midge do much
damage early in the year, ruining large numbers of fruits while
they are small. The presence of this pest is easily recognised

————
;

aE av Sees. ie a
Caterpillars and Pupa of the Magpie or
Currant Moth

Web of Caterpillars of the Small Ermine Moth

142 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

by the appearance of the infested fruits, which are much larger
than normal ones. The eggs are laid in the young flowers, and.
the maggots hatch out inside the embryo fruits and ruin them.
It is important to gather and burn all infested fruits, whether on
the tree or fallen on the ground, to prevent the escape of the
grubs. The best preventive measures are to remove two or
three inches of the soil beneath the tree in winter, and to replace it
with fresh. The old soil ought to be buried deeply in another
part of the garden. An
application of kainit to the
soil in autumn is also re-

: | commended.
KX ip 4 Red Spider.—This isa
— 4 =<
af

pernicious little pest which
plays havoc with the

ip - leaves of fruit trees, more
WS especially of those under

Ui, Ye Gi | i glass or in a hot position
Gee |) out of doors, as, for ex-

| W ample, against a south or

1 WZ west wall. When attacked

| Ye / I~ by red spider the leaves

Bi =, lose their deep green colour

HY! | and become pale and sickly.

f | The simplest remedy is salt

and water, used at the

Lime-washing Fruit Tree to rate of 1 oz. of salt to

Kill Lnpeets 1 gallon of water. The

solution must be directed

to reach the lower surface of the leaves where the pest is

usually found. Red Spider dislikes moist conditions, there-

fore is less likely to attack trees which are kept thoroughly moist

at the root during summer, and of which the branches are sprayed
or hosed frequently.

Scale.—This insect sometimes infests Peach and other fruit |
trees; it clings to the branches and shoots, and is most easily
removed by means of a stiff brush dipped in Gishurst Compound,
Fir tree oil insecticide or paraffin emulsion. The latter is made
by dissolving 1 lb. of soft soap in a little hot water and adding
sufficient hot water to make 2 gallons. A wineglassful of paraffin
is then mixed in the solution which must be used while hot.

Eggs of the Lackey Moth deposited in rings on
Shoots of Apple Tree

srennay

Ja,

Geencece

ME tS es

oo

Greasebanding fruit trees as a protection against winter moth. 1 and 2.
Bands of grease-proof paper tied round the stem : two bands are required
if the tree is staked. 3. How not to secure the band of paper. 4. Cater-
pillar of winter moth. 5, Female winter moth. 6, Male winter moth

INSECT PESTS 145

Thrips.—A minute pest which does much damage to the
leaves of fruit trees, more particularly those under glass or on a
hot wall. The affected parts have a rusty, withered appearance.
Spraying or syringeing frequently with water tends to prevent
attacks, while Abol insecticide, paraffin emulsion, quassia solution
or nicotine solution are useful remedies.

Winter Moth.—The larvae of the winter moth do a great
deal of damage in gardens generally by feeding on the buds and
young shoots. The moth lays her eggs on the trees during winter,
and in spring the larvae hatch out and attack the fresh growths.
When fully grown, the caterpillars lower themselves to the ground
by means of threads and pupate in the soil. As the females are
unable to fly, they may be caught when ascending the trees in
autumn and winter, by means of greasebands placed round the
stems about two feet from the ground level. The simplest way
of preparing these is to obtain grease-proof paper, which is tied
round the trunk of the tree, and is then well smeared with cart-
grease, which must be renewed occasionally during winter. The
bands ought to be examined sometimes and the insects destroyed.
The bands must be tied top and bottom, otherwise the moths
will crawl beneath them. A patent preparation known as Tangle-
foot is an excellent substitute for cart-grease.

This compound, weight for weight, is much dearer than grease,
but it is far more efficient ; it does not require working up and
renewing two or three times during autumn and winter, and except
for very young trees is quite innocuous, and therefore does not
require paper bands. Moreover, it can be applied in lesser
quantity than grease. A 2-inch band applied as thinly as it can
be put on will be found to stop the moths from getting above
into the branches. The importance of having these bands kept
in a sticky condition for some time after they are placed in position
will be realised when it is known that the moths are coming out
of the ground and ascending the stems of the trees from October
until mid-winter. The bands should be from 18 inches to 3 feet
from the surface soil.

CHAPTER XXVII
Various Fruits

Apricot.—This delicious fruit can only be grown with success
upon a wall facing south or south-west. It is not to be recom-
mended to the amateur who wishes to develop the resources of
his fruit garden to the utmost, for the crop of fruit is often
poor. Fan-trained trees are usually employed, and planting is
earried out in well-dug, loamy soil, with which lime rubble is
mixed freely. The soil must be made thoroughly firm about
the roots, and those nearest the surface should be covered with
not more than 2 or 3 inches of soil. It may be necessary to lift
and slightly root-prune the trees each autumn for the first two
or three years after planting to prevent too luxuriant branch
growth.

The fruits of the Apricot are borne on spurs, and on
young shoots which ought to be trained in when space can
be found for them. Summer pruning is of importance; the
side shoots should be “ stopped ” in July immediately above the
sixth leaf, and in winter they are shortened to within about
two buds of the base. Some disbudding in spring is usually
necessary, otherwise the fruit spurs will become crowded. The
Apricot comes into bloom early, and if frost threatens, the trees
must be protected by means of canvas or a double thickness of
fish netting. One of the most satisfactory varieties of the
Apricot is Moor Park.

Medlar.—Few people appear to plant the Medlar nowadays,
yet it is a picturesque tree, beautiful when in flower, and the
fruits make delicious jelly. It thrives in ordinarily well-tilled
land, and what little pruning is required is directed chiefly
towards thinning out the branches when they tend to become
crowded. One disadvantage of the Medlar is that it does not
usually bear good crops until the tree is of fair size. October
is the month in which to gather the fruits, which are not ready
for use until the flesh has become soft, a process known as

146

VARIOUS FRUITS 147

“ bletting.” Of the few varieties in general cultivation, The
Dutch or Monstrous is to be recommended.

Nut, Cob, and Filbert.—These fruits are commonly grown
in the form of bushes, having a clear stem of 15 or 18 inches ;
they thrive best in loamy soil, but even on light ground may be
depended upon to give a good return. It is usual to restrict
the number of branches to from eight to twelve, keeping them
thinly disposed; in pruning during the early years of growth,
when the branches are developing, always cut to a bud point-
ing away from the centre so that the bushes will be cup-shaped.
The Nut fruits freely on spurs, on which the small crimson
female flowers are produced; the catkins, which appear earlier,
must not be cut off, otherwise the female flowers may fail to

set’ fruit. Winter pruning must be carried out as directed
for the Apple and Pear. Suckers often appear freely, but should
not be allowed to grow. The grower must take care to cut out
_ old shoots whenever they can be replaced by young ones, and
to keep the branches well apart from each other. The dis-
tinction between Cob-nut and Filbert is that in the former the
fruit has a short husk, while in the latter the husk is longer
than the fruit. The Kentish is one of the best Filberts, and
- of Cob-nuts Kentish Cob is to be recommended.

Quince.—If only for appearance sake, and the beauty of
its blossoms and fruit, every garden might well possess a Quince
tree. It is never happier than when planted by the side of
a stream, for it needs a moist place; it is not likely to be a
success on light land and in a dry position. While the tree is
developing the branches must be kept well apart, then in future
years little attention to pruning will be necessary, though the
vigorous side shoots must be pruned.

Fruit Trees in Pots.—The cultivation of fruit trees in
pots is full of interest, and not without profit to the grower,
providing the work is well done. The best time to start is in
October, and suitable kinds of fruit to grow are Apple, Pear,
Cherry, Plum, Peach, and Nectarine. A light and airy green-
house is required if the trees are grown to supply crops of fruit
in advance of those out of doors. The work of potting the
fruit trees is of first importance; pots 10 or 12 inches wide
are large enough at first, but as the trees increase in size still
larger ones may be required. The pots having been cleaned, a few
crocks are placed over the hole at the bottom to ensure per-

148 FRUIT GROWING FOR AMATEURS

fect drainage and are covered with some rough turf soil. The

tree is then put in, and should be at such a depth in the pot

that the uppermost roots are within from 1 inch to 2 inches
of the rim. Prepared compost is filled in and made thoroughly
firm by means of a wooden rammer; the trees will not thrive
unless the soil is made firm.

When potting is finished the trees are placed out of doors,
the pots plunged to the rims in ashes. The soil must be kept
moist though not saturated. During the following season it
is not advisable to force the trees, therefore they may remain
out of doors until they are in bud. In future years they may
be placed under glass in January if an early crop is needed. In
that case they must be kept quite cool; fire-heat ought not to
be used except in cold weather, for a temperature of 40° to
45° is quite high enough before the trees have started growth.
As spring advances the minimum temperature of the glass-
house will increase naturally, but air must be admitted freely
in favourable weather with the object of keeping the growth
of the trees sturdy and short-jointed. When the trees are in
bloom, and throughout the summer, the ventilators ought to be
opened widely. Peach and Nectarine may be forced to some

extent after the fruits have “ stoned,” by closing the glasshouse -

in the afternoon before the sunshine has left the roof, and
moistening the floor and walls, but cooler conditions again be-
come necessary when the fruits are fully developed. Apples,
Pears, and Plums cannot be forced; they will, however, ripen
considerably earlier than those in the open.

Disbudding is an item of importance in the cultivation
of fruit trees in pots; it is far better to remove superfluous
shoots early than to allow them to grow, and be obliged to cut
them off later. All shoots not required for extension purposes
are summer pruned, and are again shortened in winter, except
in dealing with the Peach and Nectarine.

CHAPTER XXVIII

Diseases of Fruit Trees

Apple.—Two of the most alarming diseases affecting the Apple
are Apple Scab and Brown Rot. Apple Scab disfigures the

DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES 149

fruits by scabs and spots. Preventive measures are to spray
with Bordeaux Mixture when the fruit is set, and again three
or four weeks later. Dead and diseased shoots and branches
must be carefully cut out at the winter pruning. Trees on which
the fruit is affected with Brown Rot should be similarly treated,
and, in addition, all the fruits which turn dark brown or black
and remain on the tree ought to be gathered and burnt. Those
that fall should also be disposed of.

Pear.—The Pear Scab often disfigures large quantities of
fruit, and the trees must be dealt with in the manner advised
for preventing Apple Scab.

Plum.—tThe silver leaf disease of the Plum is apparently
increasing; it is far more noticeable in gardens now than it
was a few years ago. The Victoria Plum seems peculiarly liable
to attack. The presence of this disease is easily recognised by
the silvery-grey appearance of the leaves on infected heaps
There is no known cure at present, though some good is done
by cutting off and burning diseased branches and by an appli-
cation of sulphate of iron to the soil about the trees in autumn.

Peach and Nectarine.—Chief of the diseases affecting these
fruits is Peach Leaf Curl or Blister, the effect of which is to raise
reddish blisters on the foliage and seriously to affect the growth
of the tree. Spraying with Bordeaux Mixture in spring, after
the fruit is set, is recommended, and badly diseased shoots are
best cut off and burnt. A preparation called Medeola is said to
cure Peach Leaf Curl. Mildew is often troublesome to the
grower of Peaches and other fruits. The trees ought to be
sprayed occasionally with liver of sulphur solution, } oz. to
1 gallon of water, in spring and early summer after the flowers
have faded.

Gooseberry.—Gooseberry mildew is one of the most trouble-
some diseases of fruit trees. It is important to cut off and
burn badly affected shoots, to gather and burn fallen leaves in
autumn, and to spray with liver of sulphur solution in early
summer; several sprayings should be given every two or three
weeks,

INDEX

American blight, 132
Aphis, or Fly, 133; Woolly, 132
Apple Blossom Weevil, 134
Apple, pruning, 51; Sawfly,
sucker, 133; the, 50
Apples, cooking, 659;
varieties of, 58
Apricot, the, 146 ;
Autumn fruiting Raspberry, 102

134;

dessert, 58;

Berried fruits, 81

Big bud in Black Currant, 136
Blackberry, the, 81

Black Currant, 66; Gall Mite, 136
Bordeaux Mixture, 128

Bottling fruits, 122

Oaterpillars, leaf-eating, 130

Caustic wash, 127

Cherry, pruning, 63; the, 63; varie-
ties of, 64

Codlin Moth, 137

Cordon Gooseberries, 75

Ourrant Gall Mite, 136

Diseases of fruit trees, 148
Disbudding Peach and Nectarine, 87

Ermine Moth, 138

Fig, pruning, 71; the, 71; under
glass, 72
Fruit, bottling, 122; storing, 119;

trees, winter washes for, 127

Gooseberries in pots, 80; varieties
of, 80

Gooseberry, Cordon, 75; Sawfly, 138;
the, 74
Grapes for amateurs, 118; thinning,

Greasebanding fruit trees, 145
Hailshamberry, the, fi

Insecticides, 129; using, 130
Insect pests, 132

King’s Acre Berry, 81

Lackey Moth, 140

Laxtonberry, the, 81

Layering Strawberry, 104
Leaf-eating Oaterpillars, 136
Lime-Sulphur wash, 127
Loganberry, pruning, 81; the, 81
Lowberry, the, 81

Medlar, the, 146

Melon growing, 83; in frame, 84; in
glasshouse, 86

Midge, Pear, 140

Mite in Black Ourrant, 136

Moth, Oodlin, 137; Ermine, 138;
Lackey, 140; Winter, 145

Nectarine, 87; under glass, 89

Newberry, the, 81

Nuts, 147

Paraffin emulsion, 128

Peach and Nectarine, 87; under

glass, 89

INDEX

Po sotes 140; the, 92; varieties

of,

Perpetual fruiting Strawberry, 109

Plum, the, 97; varieties of, 98

Pots, fruit trees in, 147

Pruning and training Vine, 111;
Apple, 51; Cherry, 63; OCordons
and espaliers, 52; Fig, 71;
Gooseberry, 74; Loganberry, 81;
Peach and Nectarine, 87; Pear,
94; Plum, 97; Raspberry, 100;
summer, 45

Quassia solution, 130
Quince, the, 147

Raspberry, autumn fruiting, 102;
the, 100; varieties of, 102

Red Currant, 66

Red Spider, 142

Sawfly, Apple, 134; Gooseberry, 138

I51
Scale, 142
‘Soapy liquids, 129
Spider, Red, 142
Storing fruits, 119
Strawberry growing in pots, 104;

layering, 104; perpetual fruiting,
109; the, 103
Summer pruning, 45

Thinning Grapes, 116
Thrips, 145
Tobacco solution, 130

Vine, pruning and training, 111
Vine, the, 110

Washes for fruit trees, 127
Weevil, Apple Blossom, 134

White Ourrant, 66

Winter Moth, 145

Winter Washes for fruit trees, 127
Woolly Aphis, 132

INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS

American blight, 135

Apple King of the Pippins, 56;
Lane’s Prince Albert, 56; Lod-
dington Seedling, 60; Sawfly,
135; tree, pruning maiden, 51

Bottling fruits, 125

Sodlin Moth, 139

Ourrant, bush of Bl: ck, 67; bush of
Red, 67; Mite, 136; pruning
Black, 67, 68, 69; pruning Red,
68, 70; standard of Red, 67

Ermine Moth, 141
Espalier fruit tree, renovating, 57

Fruits, bottling, 125:
storing, 120

gathering and

Gathering fruits, 120

Gooseberry cutting, making, 75;
double Cordon, 75; fruits, in-
creasing size of, 78; fruits, thin-
ning, 78; Gunner, 79; Keepsake,
77; pruning, 76; Sawfly, 141

Grafted Apple tree, 53, 54

Grapes, thinning, 115

Greasebanding fruit trees, 144

Lackey Moth, 143
Layering Strawberry, 105
Limewashing fruit trees, 142

Melon Hero of Lockinge, 85

Peach tree, pruning, 88
Pear Conference, 95; tree, Pyramid,

93

Plum Kirke’s, 99

Propagating Vine, 117

Pruning Apple tree, 51, 55; Peach
tree, 88; summer, 46, 47, 48;
Vine, 114

Pyramid Pear tree, 93

Raspberry, pruning and training, 101

Standard Apple tree, 61

Storing fruits, 120

Strawberry Dr. Hogg, 106; growing
in barrel, 107; layering, 105

Summer pruning, 46, 47, 48

Thinning Grapes, 115
Trained Apple tree, 58

Vine, propagating, 117; pruning, 114

Printep sy Cassett & Company, Limirep, La Bette Sauvacs, Lonpon, E.C. ¢

5420

Pasrreo wi Exciame.

orn
“ey

429572

assisted by

Fruit growing for amateurs:

Thomas, Harry Higgott
Gardner.

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