C589,lzzoS Newsletter of the Triangle Area Mushroom Club PO. Box 2604, Chapel Hill, NIC. 2751 5 FIG. I. FA1RY-B1NG FUNGUS. Volume 3 Number 1 January/February 19 8 4 Correspondence Please send all membership and newsletter correspondence to Joan Zeller, 700 Morreene Rd . , Apt. C-U, Durham, NC 27705 (phone 383-7 1 54). Mark Your Calendar : January 9: Two films from the Mori Mushroom Institute in Japan, originally produced for the International Congress of Edible Mushrooms, featuring laboratory & commercial cultivation of shiitake, enokitake, Fleurotus , Pholiota, Auricularia, and Volvariella. According to the review in the Boston Mycological Club Bulletin, the films include some "sensational time-lapse sequences". Meeting at 7:00pm at the North Carolina Botanical Garden in Chapel Hill. See map on page 9. February 13: Dr. Terry Johnson, Professor of Botany at Duke University, will speak on "Mycology in China." Meeting at 7:00pm at the North Carolina Botanical Garden Chapel Hill. See map on page 9. March 12: to be announced DUES - Seeing Red? If there is no red 84 on your mailing label, wt k»*e not yet received your 1914 dues, and this is the last issue of The Funuifile you will receive. Please send dues ($6.00 individual, $8 00 family, $12.00 NAMA ) , along with application from Sept/Oct or Nov/Dec Fungi file to Joan Zeller, 700 Morreene Rd . Apt. G-ll, Durham NC 2 7 705. Ane r i can Rock Garden Society: Helot The American Rock Garden Society has asked us to provide a mushroom display booth at their 50th anniversary gathering to be held in Asheville the week of June 5. We desperately need a volunteer to take r espons i b i 1 t y for organising this display, and people to help with the design and artwork. Although the booth need not be manned (and need not actually contain mushrooms), this might be a good time for the club to hold a mountain foray. But without help, none of this will happen, and the ARCS is counting on us. Please volunteer! Contact Joan (phone number above). of light has a great effect on the size and form of Shiitake Then the temperature of incubation is reduced to I 3- 1 8°C and the bags are kept in the dark for another 10 days After 10 days of dark incubation, the bags are opened to allow fruiting and aeration, 200 lux lamps are used and temperature is oscil lated between I0-I8°C Temperature fluctuation is necessary for mushroom formation During this time the relative humidity required for the proper fruiting is about 80 ; Each bag can produce as much as 600 g of mushrooms at one time and the harvest can last as long as 10 months or more The types of mushroom houses vary In Taiwan mushroom houses are constructed of bamboo and plastic The frames are made up of bamboo and walls are covered with plastic which can hold moisture and insulate Rows of shelves are built inside to hold the mushroom bags Sometimes, the bags are just placed on the ground Shiitake mushrooms have been used in the Orient as food ingredients and reme- dies for many hundredsof years Presently. Shiitake is commonly found in oriental grocery stores and in tasty oriental dishes around the world It is indeed one of the most important ingredients in Chinese cooking Besides the delicate taste which makesdried Shiitake sell for uptoS20 00a pound in gourmet shops. Shiitake has twice the protein value of the common mushroom, and contains a II eight essential amino acids in proportions similar to milk and meat According to recent studies done in the United States and lapan. Shiitake can possibly be used as an anticarcinogenic medicine and is also effective in lowering cholesterol levels in the blood Traditionally, the Shiitake mushroom is cultivated on hardwood logs in natural environments This method has been applied in lapan and China for many years and is called bed log cultivation It not only requires a long time, usually more than one year from the time of inoculation of the mushroom spawn to the harvesting of the first crop, but it is also inevitably influenced by weather conditions Recently the method of cultivating Shiitake has been modified a great deal New techniques and "short cuts have been developed and these have eased much of the laborious work of Shiitake growers By using sawdust of hardwood and other ingredients and growing under controlled environmental conditions, one has devised a "plastic bag method" with which only 2 to 4 months are required for fruiting The most important feature of the new cultivation method is to give the nutrient medium covered with prevalent hyphae a sudden temperature change treatment In nature many fruit bodies of Shiitake burst through the log surface on a warm day that sets in after sudden cooling of the ambient atmosphere on previous days. The substrate employed for growth is sawdust which is supplemented with a number of nutrients The sawdust may come from a variety of hardwood trees, such as oak. shii. chestnut, hornbean or the like The sawdust is usually 75 to 85 percent in weight of the final medium A wide variety of starch sources may be used, such as rice, potato, corn, wheat and tapioca The amount of starch is usually 7 to I 5 percent in weight Milo, yeast, soya meal, sorghum and the like can be used as sources of protein, comprising about 1 to 10 percent in weight However, the com- bination of starch and protein source materials comprises at least 8 percent and not more than 25 percent of the dry weight The additive, such as calcium sulfate, is about 3 percent of the weight Finally, the water added to the mixture is about I to I 5 parts by weight of dry mixture. After mixing the above ingredients to insure substantial homogeneity, a heat resistant plastic bag. which is impermeable to microorganisms and sealed against par- ticulate matter, is filled with the mixture The bag is plugged with cotton to allow for the passage of air. and is sterilized at super-heated steam temperature, normally about I20°C for 60 minutes The pH after sterilization is in the range of 4 5 to 6 The Shiitake spawn is inoculated under aseptic conditions after the bag is cooled to the ambient temperature The bag is incubated in darkness at a temperature in the range of 24-28°C for 20 days until mycelia have spread throughout the entire bag The bag is then incubated with 50 lux lamps for 30-60 days depending on the strains employed During this time, the intensity Lent'mus edodes is the scientific name for. this lapanese forest mushroom having the common name Shiitake It is a non- pathogenic fungus that is heterothal lie. Fruit bodies are normally formed from dikaryotic mycelia which are composed of bi nucleate cells with clamp connections. A dikaryon can be obtained by the fusion of two compatible homokaryons which are haploid and uninucleate and are com- posed of two different incompatibility fac- tors that are not linked Many dikaryotic strains of Shiitake, including commercial strains, are nowavailable from the America Type Culture Collection This article is reprinted from the October 1983 issue of the American Type Cul- ture Collection Guar ter 1 y Newslett#r by the kind permission of the author, Dr. S.C. Jong. For help understanding the list paragraph, see "Myco- logy Demystified" on page 6 Page 3 Mushr ooa Cultivation As we fit by our fireplaces on a chill winter's eve and dream about neit summer's gardens (at least some of us), we should pause and reflect that vegetables aren't the only edibles which may be grown by the home ga r dene r / ei pe r imen t e r / hobby i s t /mycophile. Mushrooms have been cultivated for hundreds of years, and there is no reason why you, as a concerned TAMC member, shouldn't do your part to promulgate this ancient and noble undertaking. Ve present a special issue of The Fungi file, devoted to your cultivating or reading enjoyment. The Who 1 e Mushr oom Cultivator's Catalog Mail Order Sources Agr i -Truf f It , c/o M. Francois Picart, Box 6801, Santa Rosa, CA 95402, (707)525-8334: oak & hazelnut seedlings artificially mycorrhixed by black Perigord Truffle (Tuber me 1 anospo r urn ) American Type Culture Collection, c/o Professional Services Dept., 12301 Parklawn Dr., Rockville, MD 20852: a private non-profit institution dedicated to the preservation & distribution of authentic cultures of cells & microorganisms, including an extensive bank of edible mushroom cultures. "The ATCC restricts its distribution of cultures to those trained in microbiology who have access to a properly equipped laboratory. Requests for cultures should show, by a business letterhead or requisition form or in some other way, that this condition is met." Far Vest Fungi, c/o Rick Kerrigan, P.O.Box 763, Vatsonville, CA 95077: shiitake, oyster, common button mushroom growing kits (MiniFarms); also other spawn, growing supplies, & dried mushrooms; send self addressed stamped envelope for inf orma t i on Fungi Perfecti, P.O.Box 7634, Olympia, WA 98507 (206)786-1105: Coorinus comatus, St roohar i a spawn; send $2.50 for catalog The Kinoko Company, P.O.Box 6425, Oakland CA 94603, (415)562-3671: spawn and kits for Agar i cus campes t r i s . shiitake, enokitake, oysters, Aur i cu 1 ar i a polvtricha; organic compost, casing fiber; also dried mushrooms, mushroom herbal teas, books on medicinal properties of mushrooms; send SASE for inf orma t i on Kurtzman's Mushroom Specialties, 445 Vassar Ave., Berkeley, CA 94708, (415)233- 0 555: spawn for various Pleurotus species, Agar i cus b i s p o r u s & bitorquis, F 1 ammu 1 ina velutipes, shiitake (2 species), Volvariel la volvacea , and soon Stropharia r uqos o-annu lata, equipment including thermometers, ps y chr ome t e r s large plastic bags, agar; also over a dozen books & pamphlets on cultivation, as well as identification books; publisher of The Spawn (see below) Mushr oompeop 1 e , P.O.Box 158, Inverness, CA 94937, (415)663-8504: spawn for Agar i ens bisporus, spawn plugs for 2 strains of shiitake, Perigord Truffle inoculated oak & filbert seedlings, media & supplies for sterile work, including autoclaves & laminar flow hoods, supplies for growing & pest control, 20 books & pamphlets on cultivation, other field guides, cookbooks Mycotech Biological Laboratories, Box 1465, Chico, CA 95927-1465, (916)893-4422: media, labware, laminar airflow glove boxes, HEPA filters Dr. Byong Yoo , P.O.Box 290, College Park, MD 20740: shiitake inoculating chips Page 4 Mag a i i ne The Spawn : quarterly newsletter published by Kurtiman's Mushroom Specialties (see above), "has been planned as a way to exchange ideas, eiperiences, and other information from [their] customers It also includes cooking news, a question S answer form, & other useful news for amateur mushroom growers. Some of [their] growing instructions will also be included from time to time as a bonus." Cost is $5.00 for 4 issues. Books (Many books, too numerous to list here individually, have been published on mushroom cultivation. Many of the companies listed above, particularly Mushr oompeop I e and Kurtxman's, include these books in their catalogs ) Mushr ooms i n the Garden by H. Steineck, ca 150 pages, This is an English translation of P i 1 1 e jm Garten, to be published by January 1985. It discusses the suitability of numerous species of mushrooms for growing in one's own backyard, their requirements, and how to grow them Also discusses their cultivation in house and cellar, and their use as ornamentals as well as supply for food Special pr epub 1 i ca t i on price $8.95 from Mad River Press, Rt . 2, Bos 151-B, Eureka, CA 95501. North American Mycological Association Cultivation Gamble, 522 Sixth St., Annapolis, MD 21403 Commi 1 1 ee chairman, Rick Book Rev i ew by Bill Roody The Mushr oom Cultivator : A Practical Guide t o Gr owing Mushr o oms a t Home by Paul Stamets and J. 5. Chilton. 1983, Agarikon Press, Olympia, VA . 415 pages paperback, 119.95*. B&V photos & color plates. Riding the coattails of the current American enchantment with wild mushrooms is a growing number of home cultivators. The quest for consistent sources of hallucinogenic species has certainly influenced the rate of recent my cocu 1 1 u r a 1 development, but a broader spectrum of enthusiasts is seeking exotic and healthy alternatives to the supermarket Agar i cus . Raising mushrooms at home also appeals to those with natural gardening and permaculture instincts. Until now, the popular "how to" mushroom growing books have focused only on the standard Agar i cus varieties, shiitake, and a few psychoactive species, mainly Ps i 1 ocybes . The Mushroom Cultivator represents a notable gain not only in the number of species treated but also in scientific precision and detail. The guide begins with an in depth look at mushroom biology, cultural techniques, equipment, and substrate preparation. This is followed by specific "growth parameters" for 15 choice edibles and hallucinogens including Agar i cus b i t o i gu i s , brunnescens , C o P r i nu s coma t us , F 1 arnmu 1 i na v e 1 u t i pe s , Len t i nu s edodes , Lep i s t a nuda , Panaeo 1 us cvanescens , ,£ . subba 1 1 ea t us , Pleurotus os t r ea tus , Ps i 1 o c v be cnbens i s , P_ . cvanescens , P me i i c ana , F_. t amp anens i s , Strppoharia rugoso-annu lata, and Vo I v a r i e I la vol vacea . There are individual chapters covering mushroom genetics, cultural problems and solutions, identification and control of contaminates, and invertebrate pests. The unique chapter on cultural Page 5 contaminates includes t dichotomous key and detailed descriptions of thirty-three molds and other potential contaminants. One of these, Fusa r i um , is highly tone and has reportedly been employed in biological warfare by the Soviet Union in Afganistan and Cambodia. The media referred to it as "yellow rain." Included in the book are eight separate appendices of various charts, figures, tables, and resources. There is also an eitensive bibliography. The Mushroom Cultivator is by far the most comprehensive and definitive guide for the mycocultural hobbyist and entrepreneur to date, a first rate ach i e vemen t . "[Available for $14.95 plus shipping from author's firm: Fungi Perfect! (see page 3). according to the Sept embe r /October Washington , DC ] 1 983 Capitol Hushrumor s , newsletter of FIG. 9. TRUFFLE. the Mycological Society of Compos t inq and Mushr 00m Growing by Steve Warner Some mycophagists might lose their appetite if they knew that the grocery store Aqaricus was grown in a compost derived from straw and horse manure! Rick Kerrigan, a commercial grower in California, tells us how to prepare such a compost for (from?) these delectables in the December 1983 issue of Organic Gardening . The January issue will have Part II: How to grow mushrooms. A Word on Cult ivat ion by Royce Harvey [Note: this article is taken from the December 1 983 The Spot e Print , Journal of the Los Angeles Mycological Society. Dues, including subscription, are $10.00 a year ($7.50 students) to Membership Secretary Travis Dinoff, 558 Alta Mesa, Riverside CA 92507, for those who wish to keep up with Royce Harvey's tips.] In a brief article each month, I will share my cultivation experiments covering various aspects of my "home cultivating." I have been down the "heart breaking" road many times of trying to get a culture started on agar from a field specimen. After much patience and perseverance I have succeeded with this method... After collecting mushrooms, get a young fresh specimen to your work area as soon as possible. The working area should be pre-ster i I ited with a solution of 10% bleach and 90% water, cleaning everything that you will use thououghly. I then slice the mushroom vertically from the base of the stem right through the cap, being extremely careful not to touch the inner part of the mushroom. Then from the center of the upper part of the stem (an area that has never been exposed), I remove a small portion with a tweezers that has been flamed and cooled. [Fung i f i I e Associate- Ed i t or -by-De f au 1 1 ' s suggestion: Instead of slicing the mushroom, and possibly contaminating the inside with material from the surface, you might try tearing it open, then removing a piece of tissue with a sterile implement. This technique has worked very well for me.] This portion is then placed on sterilited agar in a sterilized baby food juice jar with a two-piece plastic cap. There should be some kind of life within a week. ..good or bad! If it is black, green, creamy color, dark blue, red pink, grey, or any color but white (mycelium) you have successfully grown contamination! It is now time to clean, r e-s t er i I i x e , collect fresh specimens and Page 6 begin again, testing your patience and perseverance siS »*ke a trip to the market for some delightful Aoa r i cus ! Myco 1 oqy Demvst i f i ed by Steve Warner Beginning a new feature, which may appear here again subject to popular acclaim., we present a new column which hopefully will clarify many burning questions, but will at the very least give you some incredibly obscure words to drop at parties. Sex number o in fungi f interac FIG. 8. MORLL is a potentially very complicated topic, since there are a great tions which may occur. For the sake of brevity I'll stick to the process as it occurs in the Basidiomycetes, in which most of the edible fungi of interest are found. Most Basidiomycetes produce sexual spores upon a structure called a basidium, thousands of which are located on the surface of the gills of the mushroom's cap Most of these fungi are hater othal I ic , that is, they require the interaction of two genetically compatible and complementary individuals for a successful mating to occur (like the birds and the bees, except you can't tell the boys from the girls by just looking). Mating occurs by the fusion of two different hyphae and the exchange of nuclei. Now, here's where these fungi are unique. The unmated septate (segmented) hyphae arise from germinated bas i diospores , each hyphae containing many copies of one nuclear type (homokar jot ic ) , one nucleus per segment. Each of these nuclei contains one copy of each gene and is thus haploid Most other organisms, and also some primitive fungi, fuse haploid nuclei during sex to yield diploid nuclei. Mushrooms, however, do not fuse these exchanged haploid nuclei so that the mycelium now contains two nuclear types which may be independently expressed, and are required for mushroom and basidiospore formation. This new mycelium is termed dikaryotic Many dikaryotic hyphae possess clamp connections, which are unusual morphological features whose function is unknown. November 1 4 Mee t i nq On November 14, Dr. La State University, presented of the 180 se 1 f -teaching sli rry Grand, Professor of Plant "Guide to the Boletes of Nor des he uses in his course at by Odile Gould Pathology at North Carolina th Carolina" containing many NCSU . The Boletes is a baffling but very interesting group, as many of its members are succulent and abundant in our area. Differences between genera ( St r ob i 1 omy ces , Bo 1 e t e 1 1 u s . Gyroporus , Su i 1 1 us , Xe r ocomus , Pulveroboletus , Boletus. Tv 1 oo i I us , and Lecc inum) are clear enough. However, variations in the species make identification tricky; in some cases it is necessary to resort to microscopic observation of the spores. Dr. Grand cautioned his audience "never to jam a species into a description; you may end up in the hospital." After the slide show, the speaker helped identify the specimens collected during the Saralyn foray. Dr. Grand delighted us as much for his enthusiasm as for his great knowledge . We also enjoyed some P 1 eu r o t us ostreatus gathered and cooked by Bill Burk Mcllvaine would no doubt have described Bill's dish as "tender and toothsome." Mushrooming with Julia or Child's Play Co tromping through the mud with Julia Child as she collects chanterelles as an accompaniment to "Braised and Stuffed Beef." This show wi 1 1 conclude Public Television's current series "Dinner at Julia's" on January 29 at 10 pa on VUNC-TV (channel 4 in the Triangle). (Incidentally, the mushrooms Julia collected had been planted that morning - we should be so lucky!) Illustrati ons The pictures reprinted in this issue originally accompanied an article entitled "Some Vegetable Eccentricities" in Scr i bner ' s Mont h 1 y , October 1 875. FIG. 6 STARRY PIFF-BALL The Botanical Bookstore The Audubon Soci et y Field Cu i de t o Nor t h Amer i can Mushr ooms by Lincoff if available at the special price of $9.95 + .95 postage (regular price $12.50) until February 15, 1984 from The Botanical Bookstore, P.O. Boa 1406, Youngstown, OH 44501. (Latin name labels - see Fungi file Sept/Oct 1983 p. 42 - are also available postpaid for $3 50 with a book order, 14.00 without.) The Botanical Bookstore has an eitensive catalog containing books on mushrooms, other wild edibles, wildflowers, & trees, many at discounted prices. No. 1 984? In response to all those who have asked the big question "Where is the 1984 Mad River Press mushroom calendar?," we are printing the reply received from the company by Ed Haynes: "Dear Customer: The Mad River Press has decided not to publish a 1984 calendar. However, there is a good possibility that we will publish a two year calendar beginning with 1985..." We urge anyone interested to write to the MRP, Rt 2 Bok 151-B, Eureka, CA 95501 and let them know that there is interest in future calendars. Len m and Mushr ooms by Sam Baron You don't have to be a Bolshevik to love mushrooms and mushrooming But it is a fact that Lenin, the founder of the Bolshevik Party, was a fanatical mushroom hunter His wife Krupskaia wrote: "Ilyich used to say that he did not like mushrooms and would not pick them; but now you can't drag him out of the woods - he is in a real raae about mushrooms." The writer N Valentinov, who spent several months in close contact with Lenin in 1904 reported: "He had several fits of this rage. In the summer of 1916 Lenin and Krupskaia were hurrying to catch their train, along the Page 8 mountain paths that led from the holiday home at Schaudivise, near Zurich. It started drizzling, and soon the drizzle turned into a downpour. Lenin noticed some white mushrooms in the woods, grew excited at once, and began to pick them, regardless of the rain. 'We got soaked to the skin,' Krupskaia wrote, 'and missed the train of course.' All the same Lenin completely satisfied his rage for mushrooms; he stopped gathering them only after he had filled a whole bag " Anyone who was so crazy about mushroom hunting couldn't have been all bad. In this respect, if not in others, we have to recognize a kinship between ourselves and the maker of the Russian revolution. Joe ' s_ Restaurant "Joe's celebrates one of nature's most savory gifts" - the wild mushroom So says Travel -Ho I i day Magazine (Winter 1 9 8 3 ) about the restaurant with the unassuming name in an unassuming little brick building in a working class neighborhood in Reading, Pennsylvania. Joe's Restaurant has received four stars from the Mo b i I Guide , the Travel-Hoi iday Award ("...the restaurant is one of the best in the country and certainly one of the most unusual"), and attracted the attention of chefs like James Beard and Craig Claiborne. The main feature - over a dozen original wild mushroom dishes. The restaurant opened as a tavern in 1916 by Polish immigrant Joe Czarnecki, and became a speakeasy, then a restaurant again, before being taken over by Joe Jr. Having learned a love of wild mushrooms from his mother, Joe Jr. began creating dishes around them, and started a tradition. Since 1974, Joe's has been run by grandson Jack, who prepares all the food except desserts and pastries (which he leaves to his wife Heidi). Jack is currently writing a mushroom cookbook to be published next year by Atheneum. All mushrooms used in the restaurant are gathered by the Czarnecki family. Obviously, to tide the business over the winter and through the dry years, they must preserve their finds from the fruitful times. Jack has developed an alternative to the common methods of drying and canning (which they also use), which he described in a talk at the 1982 NAMA Foray in Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania He has graciously allowed us to reprint the following from the handout which he had available at that time. Fresh Mushr oom Preservation with Br ininq Me t hod by Jack Czarnecki FIG 5. PUFF-BALL. Salting mushrooms for preser alternative to canning or drying th salting is readily achieved at home that fresh mushrooms can be prese solution, after cleaning and blanchi be helpful. The quantity of brine to be pr about one half of the capacity of will hold the mushrooms. The earthenware or glass. Fill boiling amount of water and add 7 ozs. of quart of water. Stir to dissolve resulting brine. Select healthy and solid spec Tr i cho 1 oma , Armi 1 1 ar i a , Lact ar i us . other solid species can also be used vation is a useful em. Preservation by when it is understood rved in a 70% salt ng. A litle more may epared should equal the container which container should be vessel with estimated kosher salt for each salt Cool and hold ies from among the and Russu 1 a However, It is recommended Page 9 that a containeer hold only one species. Soak mushrooms to loosen debris. Wash well and remove stems Blanch mushrooms in a 5% salt solution for S minutes after boil. (5% salt solution equals 1/2 ots of salt for each quart of water.) Drain and cool. Scald an earthenware or glass container which will hold the mushrooms Arrange the mushrooms layer by layer, gills or pores down, until the container is nearly filled, covering each layer with the cool brine. Place a weighted cover over the mushrooms. Cover all with clean cheesecloth Thereafter mushrooms can be added or withdrawn for use as desired BE SURE MUSHROOMS ARE ALWAYS COVERED WITH BRINE AND ALL SIGNS OF MOLDINC REMOVED WHEN NECESSARY, ADD 70% BRINE SOLUTION TO COVER. Use as you would fresh mushrooms after desalting in fresh cold Water for 48 hours. This time can be reduced with frequent water changes. Fried Lep i o t a Procera courtesy of Jack Ciarnecki 1 or more large caps of Lep i o t a procera 4 oxs . butter 1 whole egg, blended salt, pepper 1 cup fresh bread crumbs (dry crumbs will not do) Remove stem for mushroom. Wash well and pat dry. Season blended egg with salt and pepper to taste. Dip both sides of mushroom in blended egg. Heat butter in iron skillet until it bubbles gently. Place mushrooms in pan and fry until brown on both sides. Ac knowl ed ciemen t s Thanks to Sam Baron, Bill Burk, Jack Ciarnecki, Odile Gould, Royce Harvey, Ed Haynes, S.C. Jong, Bill Roody, Steve Warner (Associate-Edi tor-by-Def aul t ) , and Joan Zeller ( Ed i t or-by-De f au I t ) for their contributions to this issue. The Last Word Some day man will live on the moon, and eventually, he/she will probably grow mushrooms, among other edibles. When this finally happens a 'giant L e p i o t a ' for mankind will be said to have been taken.... M.C. Boi Page 10 FIG. JO. LATTICED Fl'NCUS. Triangle Area Mushroom Club P.O. Boi 2604 Chapel Hill, NC 27515-2604 lui h 0^ Li br*>-y Ol V~/) IF THERE IS NO RED 84 ON YOUR LABEL, WE HAVE NOT YET RECEIVED YOUR 1984 DUES CSS9 222 c f98t £»*?!'■'.•> >■ fry u» " *-, /• '■ FIG. I. FAIRY-RING FUNGUS. the funaifile Newsletter of the Triangle Area Mushroom Club P.O. Bok 17061, Durham, North Carolina 27705 Volume 3 Number 2 March/April 1984 Correspondence Please send all membership correspondence and newsletter submissions to Joan Zeller, 700 Morreene Rd . Apt. G-ll, Durham, NC 2 770 5 (phone 3 83 -7 1 5 4 ). All other mail'ings, including exchange newsletters, should be sent to the new address above. MARK YOUR CALENDAR: Meetings: March 12: "Ul t r as t r uc t ur e & Diversity of Mushrooms", NAMA slide/tape show by Paul Stamets. Photographs made with the scanning electron microscope, which reveals the three dimensional details of spores & tissue more realistically than other microscopes. Meeting at 7:30 pa at the North Carolina Botanical Garden in Chapel Hill. See map p20 . April Id: (No t e THIRD Monday ) "Medical Aspects of Eating the Wrong Mushroom" by Dr. Shirley Osterhout, Assistant Professor of Pediatrics and Clinical Director of the Poison Control Center at Duke Medical Center. Meeting at 7:30 pa in room 143 Jones Building, Duke West Campus, Durham. See map p 1 8 . May 14: Dr. Tom Mitchell, Associate Professor of Microbiology & Director of the Clinical Mycology Laboratory at Duke Medical Center, will speak on a topic to be announced in the next Fung i f i I e . Meeting at 7:30 pa in room 143 Jones Building, Duke West Campus, Durham. See map pl8. Forays : April 21: Bill Burk will lead us in search of MORELS. Meet at 10 am in the University Mall (Chapel Hill) parking lot near the Texaco Station (corner of 15- 501 Bypass 6 Estes Dr.) Bring lunch & collecting gear. Rain or shine. Future forays: If you would like to lead a foray, either as technical or site leader, or if you have any suggestions for new sites, contact Dianne Berg (Chapel Hill: 933-9628). Forays will be scheduled from May through October. Page 12 Organ iiati on a t Last! (sigh. . . ) A committee consisting of Catherine Gutmann, Ed & Elaine Haynes, pat McConnell, Jacques Poirier, and Joan Zeller has written a set of bylaws S constitution for TAMC . A copy of these articles will be included in a future Fung i f i I e , at which time a special meeting will be announced to vote on acceptance. Any comments or sugges- tions are welcome. Are there any lawyers oat there? In trying to discover the advantages and feasibility of incorporating and/or obtaining non-profit status (especially concern- ing liability questions), it is important that we consult with a lawyer. If you know of a lawyer who would be willing to donate some time to us, please call Ed Haynes (Durham: 493-7703) or Joan Zeller (Durham: 383-7154). Cultivation Are you considering trying your thumb at cultivating mushrooms? Get in touch with Billie Sessoms (383-5853, Durham), who has volunteered to coordinate a group for exchange of information, ideas, and moral support. Check-In For Vi Idl i f e North Carolina taxpayers should pay special attention to line 21 of the NC Individual Income Tax Return Form. This line enables you to donate part or all of your tas refund to the NC Nongame Wildlife Fund, which will aid nongame, endangered and urban wildlife (such as the bald and golden eagles and loggerhead sea turtle). If you do not get a refund, you can still contribute by sending a check to the NC Wildlife Resources Commission, 512 N. Salisbury St., Raleigh, NC 27611. (Indicate that your contribution is for the Nongame Wildlife Fund.) All contributions are tax- deductible neat year if you itemize nonbusiness deductions. December 1 2 Me e t i nq by Ed Haynes On December 12, the TAMC met for a combined member slide show and pot luck dinner at the home of Ruth Lang. Slides of interesting and exciting mushrooms were shown by Jack Billman, Joan Zeller, and Janice Ovelmen. The dinner was enjoyed by all. Particular thanks are due to Ruth for making her home available to us. January 1 1 Mee t inq by Elaine Haynes January's meeting was held at the N.C. Botanical Garden. The program was two interesting films produced and distributed by the Mori Institute of Japan. Both concerned the cultivation and life cycles of c omme r i c i a I 1 y produced mushrooms, primarily shiitake. There were many impressive time-lapse sequences of mycelia growing, fruiting, and sporulating. It was noted that over 6000 varieties of the shiitake mushroom have been identified by the industry's mycologists in their search for commercially useful stock. Shiitake ( Lent inus edodes ) is grown commercially by a "seed wedge" technique whereby cultures are inoculated into mixtures of sawdust and nutrients, incubated until good growth occurs, and then wedges of the sawdust mixture are inserted into logs of the shii tree. The logs are left stacked neatly until conditions are right for fruiting and harvest. Other commercial production methods were demonstrated also. The beautiful Page 13 Vo 1 v a r i e I I a bomb vc ina was shown growing on huge bales of straw. Bottle culture of enokitake ( F I ammu 1 ina velut i pes ) was demonstrated. P 1 eu r o t us , Pho 1 iota, and Aur i cu- 1 a r i a were other genera for which cultivation methods were discussed. Another aspect of the films was a presentation of some research on potentially useful aspects of the shiitake. Studies mentioned were on the use of shiitake as an anti-cancer agent, as a cho 1 es t er o I - 1 ower ing agent, and as an inducer of interferon. It was also noted that shiitake is more nutritious than most mushrooms, having especially high vitamin D2 levels. After the movies everyone enjoyed the good food provided by Ruth Lang and Mrs. Burk. Also thanks to Dot Wilbur and Jim Ward for making it possible for us to use the Botanical Garden's facilities, and to Chris Gould for providing the projector. February 1 3 Meet ina : Mvco I oqy in China Our speaker for the February meeting was Dr. Terry Johnson, Professor of Botany at Duke University, who prefaced his talk with the confession that his attraction to mushrooms is purely academic - he has absolutely no interest in eating them. He spoke of mycology in China, especially the impact of the Mao regime and the Cultural Revolution. From 1924, with the first Chinese scientific mycological publication, interest grew in the science until 1948. At that time, mycology passed from the hands of the scientists to the hands of the government as people and efforts were massively redirected to meet the goals of the new leadership. Fungi then became im- portant in 3 practical areas: as causes of plant diseases, as medicine, and as food. During this time, the Chinese discovered a way to use antibiotics to fight certain plant diseases, which Dr. Johnson had been taught was not possible. On the other hand, some of their agricultural methods seemed rather shortsighted, evidenced by Dr. Johnson's pictures of ruined rice and mulberry crops, the results of being planted too closely together. Quality was often sacrificed for quantity, result- ing in lower yields and wastage. The silk industry was affected by poor management of mulberry orchards and diseases of the silk worm. (Dr. Johnson mentioned infection of the pupae by Co r d y - ceos as a particular problem). Medicinal use of fungi, as well as other plants, was emphasized with the spread of barefoot doctors. Dr. Johnson brought in 2 remedies - mixtures of dried fungi & herbs prepared by a commune pharmacy - to be drunk as infusions to aid arthritis and migraine headaches. Ganoderma I u c i d a , known there as the "immortal fungus," is popular as a diuretic and antiinflammatory agent. According to Dr. Johnson, natural habitats have been replaced by cultivated fields, and overuse of the land has depleted the soil to the point where the natural fungal flora is now severely limited, especially in eastern China. The relatively few (edible) wild fungi that appear are quickly picked by the Chinese as food. It was not uncommon, Dr. Johnson said, to see roadside stands offering wild mushrooms, just as we see apples 5 pumpkins being sold here. Dr. Johnson's talk was illustrated, among other things, by various bits of party propoganda, and by slides he brought back from his trip to China in the 1970's. We thank him for his views and a fascinating glimpse at a very foreign culture. (Thanks to Catherine Gutmann for the cookies.) Page 14 Cordyceps by Joan Ze 1 1 er One of the oddities of the fungus world - which might well explain the usual disgust the general public has for mushrooms, were it not for the fact that probably few people know about it - is the genus Cordyceps . Members of this Ascomycete genus are parasites, and while some, such as C. pphioqlossoides and C. capitata, grow out of other fungi ( E 1 aphomyces , a false truffle), others prey upon insects. If you come upon a brightly colored finger or club shaped stalk in the soil and excavate a few inches, you may well find it growing from a mummified larva. The hapless larva ingests the spores, which then germinate, and mycelia begin to grow without affecting the insects life cycle or appearance. (Some sources say the spore lands on the insect and the germ tube penetrates the cuticle.) When the insect burrows for pupation, the mycelia grow more rapidly, finally killing the host and taking over the entire body. At this point, what was once an insect is nothing but a bundle of mycelia inside the original skin. This process was described in "Some Vegetable Eccentricities" in the October 1 875 Sc r i bne r ' s Monthl y (from which the illustration accompaning this article, as well as that in the masthead, are taken): the fungus "feeds upon the substance of the insect to such an extent that its vital fluid, passing into the tissue of the parasite, causes the animal to become exhausted, and dooms it to give up its last drops of life's blood that this fungus may live " The mummified mass remains in the ground, and at the proper time, pushes up its carpophore, with numerous perithecia (the asci & spore bearing bodies) embedded near the tip. Cordyceps sinensis is known in China as "Hia tsao torn tchom," the "Summer Plant, Winter Insect," and in fact, early writers thought that the fungus was merely a stage in the life of an insect which "buries itself and begins to vegetate. By the end of July, the tree arrives at its full growth and resembles a coral br anch . . . bear ing several little pods which, dropping off, become worms and from thence flies" (V7.P.K. Findlay, Funqi:Folklore, Fiction, Fact , Mad River Press, 1 9 82 ). Cordyceps sinensis was described as early as the 1760's in Tibet. It exported to China, where it was extremely valuable as a drug: it is said to antityphoid and antibiotic properties. The fungus (with attached insect) is considered a great delicacy there. On the other hand, epidemics of Cordyceps been known to cause panic in the silk industry. C_. r ob er t s i i , from Australasia, known as the "Vegetable Caterpillar," can reach 15 inches in height, and is used in tatooing. Closer to home, C. ca p i t a t a , parasitic on E 1 aphomyces (which itself is considered to be an aphr odas i ac ) , is valued by Mexican shamans as a fertility symbol and aphrodasiac because of its shape and rapidity of growth, as well as an aid to telling the future. And even closer to home, C. melolanthae produces an orange yellow fruitbody from beetle larvae from June to September. C. m i I i t a r i s , said to be the most common in this area, and to possess antibiotic properties, parasitizes Lepidoptera and Coleoptera, and fruits with a reddish orange carpophore from September to November. FIG. 14 CATER PI LLAK FUNGUS. was have also have Page 15 Talc i ng Better Mushroom Photos Far t I : Phi losophy and Equ i pment by Kerry Givens (Kerry has won several awards in the North American Mycological Association's annual Photo Contest . ) Regardless of how much technological gadgetry it is buried under nowadays, photography remains a media of artistic expression. For this reason, an apology is in order: this article is really just a collection of basic ideas aimed at producing pictures that are artistically appealing to me. I recognize that not everyone shares my tastes. (Take my kitchen, for example. Its decor is an intensely personal and artistic reflection of myself, a sort of Contemporary American Slovenly. Yet few other folks find it appealing.) Every photographer differs in his definition of an artistic image, so I'm sure that certain points in this article will elicit disagreement. To these photographers I apologize. I admit that this entire article just reflects my own opinion. Of course, it happens to be right. Get t ino Started This article is really meant for those of you who already own a 35mm camera and a few odd accessories. More accurately, it is aimed at those of you who have already spent a few hundred dollars, but haven't gotten totally depressed with your first efforts and given up. I'm always hesitant to advise folks who haven't picked up their first camera yet - the initial investment is high and, worse yet, so is the chance of immediate discouragement. The problem is: even though it's 1984 and we've put men on the moon again and again, technology still hasn't produced a simple "po int -and-shoot " 35mm camera for close-up photography. The only good way to produce consistently good mushroom photos is to understand your equ i pment . Fortunately, there is nothing difficult involved. Just learn a few basics and practice. I owned my camera for years until I finally made an effort to understand why my pictures were uniformly hideous. Within a few months, my pictures had improved remarkably. Since then, photography has become a joy instead of wasted film and missed pictures. So, where do you learn the "basics?" Some are found in the excellent articles and books listed under "Additional Reading" at the end of this article. A few basics even found their way into this article. By far the best way to pick up good camera know-how is to find a willing and knowledgeable teacher, someone who has digested all the literature for you, someone who knows which gimmicks are useful and which ones are just dead weight in your camera bag, someone who has also experienced the heart- break of goofed-up pictures - but figured out why. I'm fortunate in having known such a person, a rising young nature photographer named Jeff Lepore. Much of the information that follows comes from my years of tutelage with Jeff - grueling hours in the field, Jeff taking the pictures while I positioned the alligator or poisonous snake or scorpion or whatever. (How happy I was to get my own camera!) Anyway, this article cannot be written without a brief salute to Jeff. Besides, he would kill me if I didn't mention his name. The Came ra Body Let me say from the outset that top-quality mushroom photos can be produced using virtually anv of the contemporary major-brand cameras. True, professional nature photographers heavily favor Nikon equipment: overall, Nikon's somewhat higher prices reflect this elitism. Nikon also has a wider array of lenses and neat expen- sive gadgets than the other manufacturers. Unless you think you may one day go pro (e.g. sell photos to nature mags), I feel Nikon offers no b i q advantage to the "weekend" mushroom photographer. On a few occasions, I've tested my Minolta equip- ment against Nikon stuff, and my photos were every bit as sharp. The Lens By my reckoning, there's only one kind of lens for mushroom photography: the macro lens. The macro lens does everything a "normal" lens can do, plus enable you Page 16 to focus close-up on small subjects. (Do not confuse macro lenses with the extremely popular "mac r o - f ocus i ng " t e I epho t o- z oom lenses available in camera stores everywhere. True macro lenses are specially designed to give super -h i gh-qu a I i t y , d i s t o r t i on- f r e e images of close-up subjects. "Mac r o- f ocus i ng " t e 1 epho t o-zooins cannot make the same claim to optical quality, however versatile they are. They are also bigger and clumsier than most true macro lenses, and often do not deliver as much magnification as those lenses.) Macro lenses come in a variety of focal lengths - roughly, 50mm- 100mm-200mm. In practical terms, the bigger the focal length, the farther away from the subject you can stand. Most of my mushroom photography has been done with a 55mm macro. With a macro of this size, one must get very close (often within 7 or 8 inches or closer) to the subject. This can sometimes be a nightmare, especially when you have a big, heavy tripod attached to the camera. Occasionally I have damaged or completely smashed the mushroom I had planned on photographing while trying to posi- tion the camera close enough. Fortunately, such heartbreak is rare, so I do not hesitate to recommend 50mm macro lenses to readers of this article (I recently switched to a 100mm macro lens and now enjoy twice the working distance offerred by my 55mm. I would advise any other mushroom photographer to do the same, but not everyone can stomach the pricetag of the 100mm lens - about S250, discount. The 55ma macro, in comparison, is a little easier to swallow at about $140, discount.) The F i Im Unless you're a devotee of that hazy, soft-focus, romantic look of old movies, you should strive for sharpness in your mushroom pictures. Sharpness is second only to proper exposure in making or breaking a photo. Many a fine mushroom photo has been discarded by magazine and textbook editors simply because it wasn ' t sharp . Especially if you use slide film and like to project your pictures for friends, sharpness is critical - remember you'll be blowing up the image many times its original size when you project it. At such magnification, fuzziness becomes very evident . There are many components to obtaining a sharp picture - the quality of the lens and camera, the shutter speed and stability of the camera, the photographer's ability to focus correctly - but the bo 1 1 om I ine is: any photograph can only be as sharp as the film in your camera. The "sharpest" films available today are Kodak's color slide films, Kodachrome 25 and 64. These films also offer the advantage of very accurate color rendition. Their biggest disadvantage is that they are "slow" films requiring fairly long shutter speeds, up to many seconds long if you're photographing mushrooms in poorly-lit settings. This problem is compounded by the fact that small aperture settings (such as fl6 or ill) are generally a must in close-up photography - this, too, means that a fairly long shutter speed will be needed. If you are accus- tomed to hand-holding your camera during shots, you can therefore expect some prob- lems with Kodachrome film: slow shutter speeds and hand-held cameras do no t produce sharp pictures. There are two solutions to this problem: 1) use a tripod to steady the camera during slow exposures and/or 2) use an electronic flash. The Tr jpod I think a solid, sturdy tripod is an absolute must-have for mushroom photography. Not only will it enable you to use slow shutter speeds, but it will also free your hands and in general make things more comfortable during the act of picture taking. (Anyone who has tried to balance themselves on their knees and elbows to avoid lying on muddy ground while trying to steady the camera and focus on a tiny Cantharellus cinnabarinus knows the discomfort to which I refer) Tripods for mushroom photography need some sort of low angle setting to get the camera nearer the ground. The best solution is a tripod whose legs can be bent out at 90° angles such that the tripod squats flat on the ground. A variety of manufacturers make tripods with this feature, including Gitxo, Vivitar, Slik, Cullman, and Bogen. I think the eiact tripod selected should reflect the individual's general photographic needs, finances, and physical strength- For instance, I use a Gitzo Studex Performance Page 17 tripod, definately not a cheap tripod (don't ask) and extremely heavy by most photo- grapher's standards. However, the weight insures rock-steadiness and hence sharp pictures. For those of you who don't want to be weighted down on the trail, the Bogen 3022 'pod is an extremely well-built, reasonably priced choice. In addition to being fairly inexpensive, Bogen tripods have a variety of accessories available, including interchangeable heads, etc. I used a Cullman tripod for about 5 years until it literally disintegrated from abuse. Today's Cullman 'pods have too many plastic parts for my taste, but are very portable and can be positioned with great speed. Gitzo makes a mind-boggling array of extras, but it's all expensive. (The tripods generally start around $150.)/ Depending on the exact model purchased, expect to pay anywhere from $45 to $100 for a good tripod. Electronic Flash There are some situations where you just can't rely on natural light to get a picture. In evergreen forests, for instance, light levels may be so low that shutter speeds longer than 30 seconds would be required (at £22 with Kodachrome 25 film). Generally speaking, ultra-long exposures create special problems: first, they're difficult to calculate accurately; and secondly, Kodachrome isn't designed to be exposed at such a slow rate, which leads to odd color shifts. (This phenomenon is called reciprocity failure. There are ways to get around it, and these will be discussed in Part II.) Another problematic lighting situation is full sunlight. Direct, bright sunlight tends to create distracting shadows, obliterating the gills and the natural hues of the 'shrooms. Electronic flash can be a considerable help in both- these situations. Because Kodachrome is relatively I i gh t - i ns ens i t i ve , you need all the flash power you can get. Flash output is reported by the manufacturer in terms of guide number - the higher the value, the brighter the flash. To explain the derivation and ramifications of this number is beyond the scope of this newsletter's printing costs All you really need to know is that you want a flash with an ASA guide number of at least 50. Unfortunately, most of the flash units in this high-power bracket tend to have extra features that are basically useless and costly. For instance, many flashes have an "automatic" setting that enables the flash itself to precisely regu- late the amount of light needed for any given picture. A good idea, but it doesn't work properly when photographing close-up subjects, mainly because it is very diffi- cult to aim the flash's light sensor accurately at a small subject - especially narrow, little mushrooms. Vivitar has tried to solve this problem by creating a nifty fiber optic "extension cord" which clips to the front of your lens, effectively aiming the flash's sensor much more accurately by bringing it closer to subject. The problem I see with this "Macro Flash Sensor" gadget is that the cord connecting it to the flash is mounted on top of the camera. This is about the least effective place to put your flash when doing close-up photography! Especially with mushrooms, one needs the freedom to position the flash at a much lower angle, to illuminate the gills and avoid harsh shadows. (Not to fret! There j_s a way to get perfectly exposed flash pictures, and I'll be boring you with the details in Part II of this article.) The take-home message: buy powerful, and avoid extra trappings. Most camera manufacturers now have their own line of flash units, but with few exceptions I find these to be underpowered and overpriced. Numerous "independent" brands of flash are now available to choose from. I've been using Sunpak equipment for years now and have been impressed with its durability and simplicity. Vivitar makes decent flashes as well. Nowadays one can obtain an adequate flash unit from about $45 to $85, but remember that you'll really need two if you're determined to produce consistently pr of es s i ona 1 - I ook i ng images. One flash alone simply creates too many shadows; the second, if placed d iscr imina t e I y , will "fill in" these dark areas, producing a much more pleasing effect. More on that later. A final word on equipment: by far the cheapest way to buy photographic gear is through the enormous New York City dealers who advertise in multipage ads in the back Page 13 of magazines like Popular Photography and Modern Photography. Generally you can get what you need in 10 days or less, especially if you order COD. And the phone call is toll-free! Whenever possible I try to find the item I'm interested in at a local camera store, just to assess its quality and convenience. Literature from manufacturers can help, too, so a few sources are listed below: Bogen Photo Corp. 100 S . Van Brunt St . P.O. Box 448 Englewood, NJ 07631 Carl Heitz, Inc. 34-11 62nd St . P.O. Bos 427 Woodside, NY 11377 (Gitzo tripods) Sunpak Division Berkey Marketing Co. Woodside, NY 11377 (flashes; also distributes SI ik tr ipods ) Vivitar Corp. 1 630 Stewar t St . Santa Monica, CA 90406 (tripods, flashes) In Part II of this long-winded article, I'll try to stir you back to conscious- ness by talking about the actual process of taking the definitive mushroom photo, 5tart-to-f inish. Additional Reading "Shooting Nature," Resources Magazine, the best all-around Parts I & II, by John Shaw and Larry West. July/August 1982: pp38-47 and Sept/Oct 1982: primer on basic nature photography I've read, Michigan Na t u r a I pp 3 8 - 4 5 . Probably written by the top two photograhers in the business. Perkins Library at Duke gets this periodical The Manu a 1 of C I ose-Up Photography by Lester Lefkowitz. New York: Amphoto, 1 979. The 1 ong-and-shor t of mushroom photography is getting an understanding of close-up photo- graphy - how close-up lenses work, problems with d ep t h-o f - f i e 1 d , the need for elec- tronic flash, etc. I highly recommend this occasionally technical but extremely readable volume on the subject. The Comp 1 e t e Book _o_L Wildlife and Na t u r e Photography by Michael Freeman. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1981. This extremely handsome book touches all the bases in a series of brief "lessons." Although not strictly concerned with close-up photography, there is a wealth of general information here for outdoor photograhers who occasionally point their cameras at subjects other than fungi. 1U VA n< Triinqlt Ktti Hasbro o» Clnb H<»btrship List -February i ?84- BARBARA BE AMAH 2513 WILBON ST. DURHAM NC 27704 (?1?)477-1845 KENNETH A. BECKHAM RRt2 BOX 574 HE BANE NC 27302 (?l?)543-4??l D I ANNE BERC RT. 1, BOX 122 PITTSBORO NC 27312 (?l?)?33-?428 JACK & JOANNA SI LLMAN 3908 FADDINGTON CT. RALEIGH NC 27412 (?l?>787-8377 EDVARD $ CONNIE BOCK 2512 N. MAIN ST. TARBORO NC 27884 (?1?)823-588S JOHN S BETTIE BOND 41 6 GRAND BLVD. BOONE NC 28407 (704)244-4275 STEFAN BREUER 1315 HORREENE RD. APT. 276 DURHAM NC 27705 (?l?)383-4?5? WILLIAM BURK 1122 SOURWOOD DRIVE CHAPEL KILL NC 27514 ?42-4387 AGNA CALINCAERT 711 CHURCHILL DR. CHAPEL HILL NC 27514 (?l?)?2?-3?08 ALISON CHAMBERS 2924 CHAPEL HILL RO. DURHAM NC 27707 (?i?)48?-8154 ELISKA CHANLETT 422 GREENWOOD RD. CHAPEL HILL NC 27514 (?19)?42-5553 EUNICE CRONIN 1827 HART ST. GASTONIA NC 28054 (704)844-2001 MADELEINE DUVIC 124 SUMMERLIN DR. CHAPEL HILL NC 27514 (919)942-1213 J.H.B. i LOIS GARNER 351? RACINE ST. DURHAM NC 27707 (919)489-8937 KERRY T. G I YENS 90S CLARION DR. DURHAM NC 27705 (919)383-4045 CHRIS & ODILE GOULD 41 GREEN MILL LANE DURHAM NC 27707 (919)493-1194 DAVID GREEN 1-7 COLONY APT. CHAPEL HILL NC 27514 (919)929-9748 MARGE 4 CHET GROCHOLA RTE. 7 BOX 601 CHAPEL HILL NC 27514 (919)933-4100 LAURA GUTMAN 2403 WRIGHTWOOD AVE. DURHAM NC 27705 (919)489-5934 CATHERINE A. GUTMANN 24 H STRATFORD HILLS APTS. CHAPEL KILL NC 27514 (919)947-2990 ROGER H. HAGLES 2206 BYRD ST. RALEIGH NC 27403 (919)787-0388 ED S ELAINE KAYNES 3447 HOPE VALLEY RD. DURHAM NC 27707 (919)493-7703 STEPHEN 4 SUSAN HELMER RT 5 BOX 3 ISA BOWDEN RD. CHAPEL HILL NC 27514 (919)947-4544 DAVID HIGGINS 912 W. SOUTH, ST. RALEIGH NC 27403 (919)833-7057 JANICE HOPE 4409 ELECTRA DRIVE RALEIGH NC 27407 (919)834-2209 KEITH HOUCK 105 PINEGATE CIRCLE, I? CHAPEL HILL NC 27514 CLARKE JOHNSON RT 11, TIMBER ROCX FARM KINGSPORT TN 37443 (415)323-4027 EMILY JOHNSON RD 13 SUNSET DRIVE EXPORT PA 15432 (412)327-4294 WALLACE V. KAUFMAN BOX 54B, RT. 1 PITTSBORO NC 27312 (919)542-4072 KRISTOFER KLEIN 1? SCOTT PLACE DURHAM NC 27705 (919)489-2934 CARL W. K0LLHE9 2114-101 AVENT FERRY RD. RALEIGH NC 27404 (919)851-8545 RUTH LANG 1504 KENT ST. DURHAM NC 27707 (919)489-5349 GERTRUDE LONDON 1199 CYPRESS RD. CHAPEL HILL NC 27514 (919)929-4783 BILL * CONNIE LONG STAR ROUTE AFTON HI 49705 (414)525-8400 STEPHEN F. MARSH 852 TRYCN ST., APT. t3 RALEIGH NC 27403 (919)821-4018 OWEN 4 PATSY MCCONNELL 2808 BUTNER ST. DURHAM NC 27704 (919)477-5178 BONNIE MCFARLANE 1315 HORREENE RD. APT. 276 DURHAM NC 27705 (919)383-4959 SANDY HOY 1717 SNOW HILL ROAD BAHAMA KC 27503 (919)477-2579 WILLIAM 4 BARBARA OLIVER 1304 BRUCEKOKT DR. GARNER NC 2752? (919)772-3978 JANICE L. OVELHEN 813 LOUISE CIRCLE DURHAM KC 27705 (919)383-7311 ROBERT G. PEASE 2114 WOODLAND AVE. BURLINGTON NC 27215 (919)584-7449 JACQUES C. POIRIER 210 W. LAVENDER AVE. DURHAM NC 27704 (919)477-5837 GEORGE 4 MARY PYNE, JR. 804 VICKERS AVE. DURHAM NC 27701 (919)488-1442 SHERRIE RAKOFF 204 HILLSBOROUGH RD. CARRBORO NC 27510 (919)933-8407 BILLIE V. SESSOMS 802 DULUTH ST. DURHAM NC 27705 (919)383-5853 HUB & MORE EN ANN SIMMONS RT 3 SOX 215AA WAKE FOREST NC 27587 (919)554-4243 BRUCE SIMONSEN 1717 SNOW HILL ROAD BAHAMA NC 27503 (919)477-2579 GERDA 5TADELMAIER ?04 BROOKS AVE. RALEIGH NC 27407 (919)834-7742 ALLEIN STANLEY RT. 3, BOX 1 STATESVILLE NC 28477 (704)872-7972 JEAN B. STEWART 112 GLEKDALE DR. CHAPEL HILL NC 27514 (919)942-2902 COLIN C. THOMAS, JR. 408 HORGAN CREEX RD. CHAPEL HILL NC 27514 (919)942-4845 page 20 PHYLLIS S MITCH VINSON LELAND VON BEHREH JANES L. VARD STEVEN WARNER FRANCES ZELINSXI JOAN ZELLER 623 THALIA PT. RD. 401 NIAGARA RT 1 BOX 2S4 SOX 15, POLK'S LANDING ALVAH'S LANE 750 HORREENE RD. APT. G-ll VIRGINIA BCH. VA 234S2 EAST ALTOH IL 62024 CHAPEL HILL NC 275H CHAPEL HILL NC 27514 CUTCHOGUE NY 11935 DURHAM NC 27705 (804)486-4776 (618)257-8517 (917)727-7666 (919)933-6879 (516)734-6853 (719)383-7154 The Last Word As we all know, this is the time of year when we should all look out for the Geas t r urn bunny . Triangle Area Mushroom Club P.O. Bok 17061 Durham, NC. 27705 NORTH CAROLINA COLLECTION WILSON LIBRARY 02^-A CAROLINA CAMPUS , UNC-CH C589. 222.05 F9Bt P.O. Newsletter of the Triangle Area Mushroom Club Box 17061, Durham, North Carolina 27705 JtrmilUriM mt/irm. Fro) tine plants .riant; from the mycelium (KJUiwui/Aa). (After 6gurc la Easier aad Praari'i " Plaaarafamilien.") Volume 3 Nuabar 3 Hay/Juna 1984 Corr«a2ondenca Plaaaa sand all corraapondanca and neweletter aubalaaiona to Joan Zallar, 700 Horreene Rd., Apt. G-ll, Durham, NC 27705. All othar sailings, including exchanga newelettera, should ba sant to tha address above. MARK YOUR CALENDAR Meetings:. May 14: Dr. Tom Mitchell, Associate Profesaor of Microbiology & Director of tha Clinical Mycology Laboratory at Duke Medical Canter, will apeak on "Fungal Infec- tion*. ** A small number of fungi causa infections for huaena and other aniaala. These rare organiaaa will ba pictured and diacuaaed. There will alao ba an opportunity to aak queationa about the new Constitution and Bylawa, and upcoming election of officers. Meeting at 7:30 pa in room 143 Jones Building, Duke West Campus, Durham. See aap p. 28. June 11: Business Heating and Mushroom Identification Session. We will first vote to ratify tha Constitution and Bylawa (sea copy inserted in members' newslet- ters), and then hold elections for President and Secretary /Treasurer. (See CLUB BUSINESS) . The business aaeting will be followed by a muahrooa identification seaaion, ao bring your mushrooms (with prepared spore prints if possible) and field guidea. Meeting at 7:30 pa in room 143 Jones Building, Duke Wast Caapus, Durham. See aap p. 28. Hay 12, Sat.: Tooth Farm in Chatham Co., home of Jeff & Libby Sheer. Meet at Texaco Station 10am. Contact peraon: Joan Zeller (383-7154). Hay 26, Sat.: Mason Farm in Chapel Hill. Meet at Finley Golf Course parking lot 10 aa. Contact person: Dianne Berg (933-9628). See Mason Farm below. June 10, Sun.: Chatham Co., land of Alice and Jaca Phalan-Hobbs. Beech, poplar, & low wet areas, site of 2 successful forays last year. (Remember the bamboo foreat?) Heet at Texaco Station 10aa. Contact peraon: Dianne Berg (933-9628). For ay. * : June 23, Sat.: Hason Farm in Chapel Hill. Heet at Finley Golf Course parking lot 10 am. Contact peraon and technical leader: Jack Billman (787-8377). page 22 July 8, Sun: Saralyn area of Pittaboro. Site of aeveral very prolific past forays. Meet at Texaco Station 10am. Contact person & technical leader: Wally Kaufman (542-4072). July 21, Sat.: Mason Fare in Chapel Hill. Meet at Finley Golf Course parking lot 10 as. Contact person and technical leader: Owen McConnell (477-5178). august 25, Sat.: Mason Far a. September 23, Sat.: Mason Far a. October 27, Sat.: Mason Far a. MOTES: Other forays will be scheduled for August -October and announced in the next newsletter. Please contact Dianne Berg if you would like to lead a foray or have any ideas for new sites. Texaco Station meeting site: University Mall parking lot in Chapel Hill, corner of Estes Dr. & 15-501 Bypass. Maagn Farm: meet at Finley Golf Course parking lot in Chapel Hill, Old Mason Farm Rd. off 15-501 Bypass between Hwy 54 (Raleigh Rd.) and NC Botanical Garden. ES£3Z lQf2£!2U2B Wear raingear if appropriate and sturdy, comfortable shoes, such as (broken- in) hiking boots. (Remember, this is snake country.) Insect repellent is usually a good idea; so is toilet paper - these sites have no facilities. Also bring a basket or box for collecting, wax paper or bags for wrapping specimens (not plastic wrap or baggies - these encourage sweating and early decay), knife, field guide, notebook, whistle (see WJUatles^op.) , and compass if you have one. And don't forget lunch. Trips will not be cancelled for rain, unless there is a deluge. (If questionable, call contact person in the morning to see if it is deluging.) Foray Etiguette Some etiquette is important in the field, to preserve the habitat, and also to not interfere with the enjoyment of those who come after you. Although the coda "Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints" may not literally apply to mushroom hunters, its spirit is still appropriate. (Do be certain you have permis- sion to pick.) Though the main body of the fungus is the mycelium underground, which is not destroyed by picking the mushroom, try to leave aoae individuals to ensure spore dispersal. Disturb the environment as little as possible, replacing duff and leevea, and leave discards and cuttings out of sight. Remember, the effects on the environment are aagnified when groups are at large, ao be extra conacious of leaving the area as natural as you found it. Another thing to think about when on a foray with a group is that others nay wish to see the mushroom in situ. When you come upon a particularly unusual or striking specimen, let the others know, so that they may appreciate it in its natural setting before you pick it. (This is especially a plea from photographers. And please be considerate; over-anxious collectors have been known to pluck auahrooms right out of the viewfindert) page 23 Wh^atleetop For quick and aaay coaaunication in the field, the Colorado Hy co logical Society uaea the following whiatle code, which we could adopt: One blaat ■ **Coae to aet" or MCoae aee what I've found t," Two blaata » "I ai here ! , " Three blaata * "I aa loat!" ISfon Farm by Dianne Berg, Foray Chair In return for a apeciea llat of the auahrooaa we find, the lorth Carolina Botanical Garden haa generoualy granted peraiaalon for TAHC to uae ita Haaon Fara reaearch area for a aeries of aonthly foraya. Haaon Fara ia the area described by John K. Terrea in hla delightful book Froa Laurel Bill to Si lor 'a Bog - The Walking Adventures of a Naturalist. Located adjacent to Finley s.youn^c.m.n — — * — s ™ — " * ■ specimen older than a. Golf Course in Chapel Hill, Mason Fara preaents within its confines a wide range of coaaunlty typea froa aountain habitata with disjunct aontane apeciea through piedaont to coastal plain- like floodplain habitats. Two areas, the century-old Big Oak Woods and the Shagbark Hickory forest which growa over a diabase dike, are regiatered as unique natural areas with the North Carolina Natural Heritage Prograa. The land, which only recently escaped the threat of the aouthern 1-40 connector loop around Chapel Hill, la primarily flat, lowland triaasic basin floodplain. Thia lowland contrasts with typically upland piedaont hill area above the pond. Lowlands are also juxtaposed with a steep, rocky gorge formed by Norgan Creek aa it cuts down through an outcrop of diabase rock creating a protected north-facing alope which harbors a population of Mountain Pink ?n typically unicellular KySy e 10 0 reproductive bodies which, directly or in- directly, are capable of reproducing the plant. The name ii given to all the reproductive bodies of cryptogamous pint*, which axe the analogues of the seeds ot the higher or flowering plants, from which they further din" er by having no embryo. In the majority of caaea a spore consists ot a nucleated mass of proto- plasm inclosing starch or oil aa reserve nutritive ma- terial, surrounded by a cell- wall In those cases in which the spore is capable of germination immediate- ly on the completion of Its development, the cell-wall is a single delicate mem- brane consisting of cellu- lose ; but in those cases in which the spore must pass through a period of quiescence before germi- nation, the wall is thick and may consist of two layers, an inner, the en- ,dotpore, which is deli- cate and consists of cellu- lose, and an outer, theezo- tport. which is thick and rigid, frequently dark-colored, and beset externally with spines or bosses, and which consists of cutin. In certain plants, as some algte and fungi, spores are produced which are for a time destitute of any cell-wall. They are further peculiar in that they are motile, on which account they are called zoospores. In the various divisions of cryptogams the spores are pro- duced in many different ways and under various condi- tions. 8ee acidiotpore, atcotport, bitport, carpospore, efda- mydotpore. clinorpore, maermprrre, microspore, oospore, pro- totpore. ptrudntpore, pyenidiotport, ttyiotpore, UlexUotpon, ttrtuporc, uredoepore, zoospore, rygotpore, etc 2. In zool., the seed or germ of an organism, of minute size, and not of the morphological value of a cell, such as one of the microscopic bodies into which the substance of many proto- zoans is resolved in the process of reproduc- tion by sporation ; a sporule ; a gemmule, as of a sponge. — 3. In biol., an organic body of ex- tremely minute size, and not subject to ordi- nary classification ; a sporozoid or zoospore ; a living germ, as a seed of certain diseases. — 4. Figuratively, a germ; a seed; a source of being. The ipora of a great many ideas are floating tbout in the atmosphere. 0. W. Holm**, Old VoL of Life, p. 46. i. Of Lynpodium ettnatu-m. 3. Of Stlagirulla marfinata, ger- niiaatiQg. y Qi Italics lacustns. 4. Of £auiselum at w*jG. tartuffel, kartoffel, potato), also tartuffo, tartufo, truffle; prob. < L. terrse tubera, 'earth-tubers': terras, gen. of terra, earth ; tuber, tuber. Cf . tri- fle1.'] A subterranean edible fungus, especially of the aseomveetous genus Tuber. The common English truffle, T. mttivum. Is roundish Id shape, and la covered externally with polygonal warts. It is Slack out- ride, and brownish veined with white inside, and grows in calcareous soils, usually under birch- or oak-trees. Truffles are much esteemed as an ingredient in high- seasoned dishes. As there is no appearance above ground to indicate their presence, dogs and pigs are frequently trained to find them by the scent, ana scratch or root them up. Many persons also become expert in selecting the places where they are likely to grow. The most famous field for the production of truf- fles is the old prov- ince of Pgrigord In France. The com- monest Bpecies of the French mar- kets Is T. melano- tporum. T. mag- natum is the garlic- scented truffle of Italy. Other edible species of Tuber are T. brumale, T. maentericum, etc. The celebrated po- tato-like truffle of Italy, etc., Is Trr. fezia lean is. The false truffle, which it frequently sold in the English and Truffle ( Tubtr mtianaj/om m). section, ihowing the Interior structure l />, an ascos. continental markets, is Scleroderma mdgan, allied, as Is the so-called red truffle, ilelanogatter rariegatiu, to the puHballs. See Tuber, 2, and compare luclcahoc. A dish of tntflei, which is a certaJne earth nut, found out by an hogg train d to it, and for which those animals are sold at a great* price. Evelyn, Diary, Sept. SO, 1644. truffled (truf'ld), a. [< truffle + -ecP.~\ Fur- nished, cooked, or stuffed with truffles: as, a truffled turkey. truffle-worm (truf'l-werm'), n. The larva of a dipterous insect which infests truffles. has the following snakes for sale (or free to a tax- exempt organization): 12 ft. Burmese python, 6 ft. boa, and an 8 ft. bullsneke. Call her at 929-3908 if you can help her out. Illustrations The illustrations in this issue are taken from The Century, Dictionary and Cyclopedia, edited by william~~Dwight~~i5hItney "coT, MY, 1914. (Thanks to Roger Hagler.) Taking Better Mushroom Photos Part II: Getting the Picture by Kerry Givens Our Story So Far: Last time I waxed fantastic about the sort of equipment I find essential for the craft of mushroom photography. With the same brand of nonchalant arrogance I'm now going to outline ay formula for the use of this equipment. Again I hasten to fend off clamors of dissent from other photographers: there are other ways to take mushroom pictures, but the following techniques work best for me. So there. Selecting a Subject A natural tendency among us amateur photographer-mycologists is to snap each and every mushroom species encountered along the trail. I don't mean to discourage this habit, because practice is essential to master one's equipment. However, with time one comes to realize that outstanding photos aren't made by photographing page 31 everything you see and hoping that a few turn out well. Instead one must learn to discriminate among available subjects. The way I do this is by Mf rasing" each potential subject in ay Bind, imagining what the whole scene will look like through the viewfinder even before I take out sy camera. The sorts of questions I ask myself during this process include: 1) Will this fungus fit comfortably into a 35mm slide? Not all mushrooms look so great when wedged into that little rectangular viewfinder. Big Lepiotas with huge caps, for instance - by the time you back up enough to get the whole cap in the picture, you've included so much distracting background that the mushroom gets lost. 2) Is the subject imperfect? (Not to be confused with fungi Imperfect!.) Don't be too quick to focus on a specimen with obvious flaws, eg, a pileus with bug holes. I always scan the immediate vicinity of an interesting mushroom, hoping to find better examples of the species. Fungi are gregarious things so the search is often rewarding. If the subject is a rarity, you "takes what you can gets," but fresh, intact specimens are always more likely to yield an outstanding photo. 3) Is the lighting adequate? I definitely prefer subdued natural light to cap- ture mushrooms in their native habitat, especially when the picture will include a fair amount of background. (To use electronic flash on such a scene often fails to illuminate the background adequately, creating the familiar black background or "taken -at -night" look. This is fine for scientific close-ups of isolated parts of fungi, but rather unnatural when trying to depict a mushroom in its native habitat.) The best lighting is even lighting, that is, a scene without annoying highlights and obscuring shadows. I therefore avoid photographing mushrooms in direct sunlight. Sometimes, if a willing volunteer is available, you can position a human body to cast a shadow over the scene to be photographed. True, blocking out light means longer shutter speeds will be needed - and yes, longer shutter speeds makes getting a sharp picture a little trickier. But shortly I'll explain how I get sharp pictures with shutter speeds as long as 20 seconds or more. By reviewing potential photographic subjects in this manner, I minimize wasted shots by concentrating my efforts on mushrooms most likely to yield a good picture. One of the satisfying aspects of mushroom photography is that there are plenty of photogenic fungi left even after you rule out the specimens that are not acceptable for photography. Setting Up Now the camera comes out of the gadget bag. Before struggling with the tripod I view the subject from a variety of angles while hand-holding the camera: often you can find a better view of the mushroom than you originally saw. This is much easier if you haven't already attached the tripod to the camera t After selecting the best view, I then attach the tripod. The bottom line here is stability, especially when taking slow exposures (eg, anything longer than 1/60 second qualifies as "slow" in ay book). Rock-like sturdiness is essential if you want sharp pictures. This means making sure the camera is screwed tightly to the tripod, as well as getting solid three-point contact between tripod and ground. If there's any wobble at all in the camera-tripod setup, sometimes you can hang a heavy camera bag beneath it to increase stability. Next comes focus. As a rule, macro lenses do not deliver much depth-of-f ield; this zone of sharp focus continues to diminish as you photograph smaller and smaller subjects. This creates a dilemma: in many close-up photos, you will be unable to get the entire mushroom, front to back, in focus. What to do? The thing to avoid is a picture in which the front of the mushroom (part closest to the lens) is out-of- page 32 focus. This is a basic rule of composition that really applies to all close-up photography. The way to insure optimum focus is two-fold: . 1) use small lens apertures (eg, the larger -numbered f -stops, f 22 and f 32) and 2) focus on that part of the mushroom closest to the lens. Trust ae, it works. As I mentioned last time, smaller apertures require longer shutter speeds, when using natural light. Often the required exposure is several seconds or longer when using a "slow" film such as Kodachrome 25. Unfortunately, most camera meters are unable to register a shutter speed longer than one second. So how do you figure out how long you should expose the picture? With the camera in position and focused, open up the lens to a wide aperture such as fS.6. Now much more light should be reaching your camera's meter and hopefully the reading will come back on scale. Let's say your camera meter now indicates an exposure of 1/2 second at £5,6. Ideally, you want to take the picture at £22 or £32. To compute the necessary exposure, simply double the exposure time for each f-stop you pass as you count up to f22 or f32: I1a§ £§ ill f22 f32 Exposure needed: 1/2 sec. 1 sec. 2 sec. 4 sec. 8 sec. So, a shutter speed of 3 seconds is required at £32. Sadly, that's not completely true. Whenever you expose Kodachrome film for longer than 2 seconds or so, you encounter a problem called reciprocity failure. The crux is - the different colors of dye in Kodachrome emulsion do not share the same degree of light sensitivi- ty. So, during a long exposure, certain colors do not develop as rapidly as others. If you ignore this problem, you end up with bizarrely-tinted slides. The good news is - reciprocity failure can be corrected. You just have to lengthen the exposure that you originally calculated. By how much? Kodak has its own data available, but I've been using somebody else's chart with great success. Here it is: Calculated exposure Exposure needed to correct reciprocity failure 1 1/2 sec. 2 sec. 2 2 1/2 M 3 4 5 7 1/2 M 6 9 1/2" 8 13 Beyond 8 seconds, a little experimentation is necessary. I usually multiply the calculated exposure by l.S. If you write real tiny, you can fit this chart on a 2" square of index card and pop it into the film memo holder on your camera back. By the way, reciprocity failure is why you automatic camera users cannot rely on your camera to calcuate an accurate exposure when long shutter speeds are involved. Automatic cameras don't "know" about RF and won't compensate for it when computing the exposure time. Let's hear it for all you manual override fans out there! It's always a good idea to take a few extra shots using exposure times shorter and longer than what you finally compute - "bracketing" your exposure, as they say. This is especially true when you've had to open your lens up to (say) £5.6 in order to get a meter reading. If (for whatever reason) the meter reading at £5.6 Is slightly inaccurate, you've multiplied that inaccuracy when you multiply the meter reading to compute the exposure at £32. So don't put all your chips on just one picture! Take aeveral, at slightly different exposures, to allow for metering inaccuracy. (Camera meters are notoriously inaccurate nowadays. John Shaw, a celebrated nature photographer cited in the bibliography from Part I of this article, recommends the following simple test of your camera meter: set your ASA (film speed) dial at the speed you'll be using - let's say 25, in the case of Kodachrome 25. On a sunny day, set your lens (any kind of lens will work) at £16 and focus on the cloudless north sky, at about an angle of 45°. If your meter is properly adjusted, it should page 33 indicate a required shutter speed of 1/ASA setting you selected; allowing for ap- proximation, a properly calibrated meter should indicate a speed of 1/30 sec. for an ASA setting of 25, 1/60 sec. for ASA 64, 1/125 sec. for ASA 100, and so on. If your meter tells you otherwise, then turn the ASA dial until the proper shutter speed is indicated. That's right, you say have to set the ASA dial at something other than 25 to get properly exposed pix with Kodachroae 25. This say be hard to accept at first; I know it was for me. But I changed ay ASA dial anyway and now I 'a a better aan for Now it's tiae to push the button and take the picture. I think a good cable release is a must for the aushrooa photographer (sorry for not mentioning in last tiae!). The aain purpose of using one is to reduce vibration by releasing the shutter without having to touch the camera or tripod; less vibration aeans sharper pictures. Some of the newer generation of cable release the shutter with an electronic impulse rather than a mechanical plunger. Theoretically they reduce vibration even more than the old-fashioned plunger-type releases, but I doubt the difference is visibly significant. Another way to reduce vibration is to use the mirror-lock-up button, if your camera has one. The mirror (which enables light to travel from the lens to the viewfinder) snaps up as the shutter is released. This "snap** causes a brief vibration that can slightly blur pictures taken at shutter speeds around 1/30 to 1/4 second; as longer exposures are used, sharpness lost to mirror slap becomes less and less. On some cameras you can manually lock the mirror up before you trip the shutter, thus avoiding the dreaded slap. (Of course, you can no longer see through the viewfinder when the mirror is locked up, so wait until you're ready to take the picture before you lock it up.) Now you're set. Use slow, steady pressure on the cable release button to trip the shutter - a sloppy, quick jab could vibrate the camera as much as if you hadn't used the cable release at all. If you're taking a picture that requires several seconds of exposure, you should try to remain very still during the exposure so as not to jiggle the release, tripod, camera, or subject. When photographing near a road I usually wait until all cars have passed before tripping the shutter. Fortunately, mushrooms are among the most stalwart of subjects and rarely wiggle in the wind. That 'a my basic system for photographing mushrooms. I've deliberately avoided explaining the use of electronic flash; partly because this installment is far too long already, but mostly because that's what I'll be talking about next tiae. it.) An extensive genus of hymenomycetona map, generally found growing on the ground in woods and meadows, especially in pine woods. In BoU- tmt the poree are easily aeparable from the cap and trom each other, while In the related genua Polyponu they are adherent to the cap, and are bound to each other by an tatentltial ttaue, the tram*. A lew apeciea are edible. page 34 Bushrooa^Asparagus Salad by Marilyn Knapp 3 Tbs. olive oil 1 Tbs. white vinegar 1/8 tap. salt 1/8 tap. pepper 1/2 lb. auahrooas finely chopped 1 lb. aaparagua 1/2 cup aeyonnalse 1/2 tap. chopped freah chivea Combine flrat 4 ingredients & blend well. Add auahrooaa, aix and set aaide to marinate for 30 ainutea. Cut aaparagua into thin alicea and ateam until tender, about 6-8 ainutea. Cool. Add aaparagua, aayonnalae, chivea to auahrooa aixture, aix carefully. Chill, garniah with boiled egga. Thanks to THE HUSH RUMOR, newsletter of the Snohoaiah County Mycological Society (in Washington State) for the above recipe. The Final Word One often finds snatches of old songs going through one's aind on these ware spring days. Juat perhapa, one of theae aay be: "Truffle Off To Buffalo".... Triangle Area Muahrooa Club P.O. Box 17061 Durhaa, MC 27705 * • — » • — • « — - UMC- qh FIG. I. FAIRY-RING FUNGUS. C589,22Z0$ f98t the fungiffe Newsletter of the Triangle Area Mushroom Club P.O. Box 17061 , Durham, North Carolina 27705 Volume 3 Number 4 July/ August 1984 President: Ed Haynes, 3447 Hope Valley Rd. , Durham, NC 27707 493-7703 Secretary/Treasurer: Jacques Poirier, 210 W. Lavender Ave., Durham, NC 27704 477-5837 Editor: Joan Zeller, 700 Morreene Rd. Apt. G-11, Durham, NC 27705 383-7154 Foray Chair: Dianne Berg, Rt. 1, Box 122, Pittsboro, NC 27312 933-9628 Program Chair: This space available M mi CALENDAR: Meetings: July: no meeting August: no meeting September 10: Details in next issue Foravs : July 21., Sat: Mason Farm in Chapel Hill. Meet at Finley Golf Course parking lot at 10 am. Contact person: Dianne Berg (933-9628) August 5, Sun: Schenck Memorial Forest in Raleigh (!!!). Meet at Scott Building (across from Flea Market) at State Fairgrounds off Blue Ridge Rd. , 10 am. Contact person and technical leader: Jack Billman (787-8377). The Schenck Forest, research forest of NCSU, is abandoned field, covered with loblolly pine, yellow poplar, gum, and oak, and includes 25 natural acres. The ashes of Dr. A.C. Schenck, founder of the first forestry school in the New World, are scattered among the pines. August 25, Sat: Mason Farm in Chapel Hill, 10am. Contact Dianne Berg. Since this is such an unpredictable time of year, in case of dry weather, bring slides, and we will go somewhere in Chapel Hill to show them. September 16, Sun: (note: target date only, subject to change). Contact person and technical leader: Odile Gould (41 Green Mill Lane, Durham, NC 27707). This foray will have a different format from our others. Odile will scout out likely areas, and depending on weather and mushroom conditions at the time, will select an exact date, time, and place to ensure a fruitful foray. She will notify those who have expressed an interest in attending. To be notified, you must send her a postcard, and tell her how to reach you. This will not obligate you to go, but it is the only way you will be notified. September 29, Sat: Mason Farm in Chapel Hill, 10 am. Contact person and technical leader: Owen McConnell (477-5178). October 14, Sun: Battle Park in Chapel Hill. Meet at Texaco Station, 10 am. Contact person and technical leader: Bill Burk (942-6387). October 27, Sat: Mason Farm in Chapel Hill, 10 am. Contact Dianne Berg. page 36 Forav Information Meeting sites; Texaco Station: University Mall parking lot in Chapel Hill, corner of Estes Drive and 15-501 Bypass. Mason Farm: Finley Golf Course parking lot in Chapel Hill, Old Mason Farm Rd. off 15-501 Bypass between Hwy 54 (Raleigh Rd.) and NC Botanical Garden. Trips will not be cancelled for rain, unless there is a deluge. If ques- tionable, call contact person in the morning to see if it is deluging. Bring a basket or box for collecting, wax paper or bags for wrapping specimens (not plastic wrap or baggies), knife, field guide, notebook, whistle, compass if you have one, insect repellent, and lunch. Officers! (sigh... says Joan) Congratulations, good luck, and THANKS to the new officers who were elected at the June meeting. Ed Haynes is our new President, and Jacques Poirier is now Secretary/Treasurer. Joan Zeller and Dianne Berg are remaining as Editor and Foray Chair, respectively. Program Chair, are you out there??? In addition, the Constitution and Bylaws were ratified at the meeting. Ron Petersen Foray The Asheville Mushroom Club has invited us to attend a weekend foray with them, featuring guest mycologist Dr. Ron Petersen of the University of Tennessee on September 8 & 9« The $15 fee includes Saturday dinner and Sunday breakfast, and the club will be able to put up 5 to 10 of us. Contact TAMC member Barbara Beaman (477-1865) if you are interested, so we and the Asheville Club can finalize plans. This will be a wonderful opportunity to foray in beautiful and bountiful country, learn from an expert, and meet some kindred spirits. .. and only 4 hours away! First come, first served. "Mushroom Poisoningf Diagnosis and Treatment" (report on April 16 meeting) by Elaine B. Haynes On April 16 Dr. Shirley Osterhout, Clinical Director of the Duke Poison Control Center, gave a very informative lecture on "Mushroom Poisoning, Diagno- sis and Treatment." Fortunately, most plants and mushrooms are not poisonous, and of those considered poisonous only a few are potentially lethal. The first case of mushroom poisoning in American medical literature was reported in 1871. At the Duke Poison Control Center questions, about plant poisoning are the third most common ones asked. For the most recent years that statistics were avail- able approximately five percent of all calls received were about plant poisons; for 1979 there were 37 mushroom related calls and for 1 980 there were 30. As many local mushroomers noticed last year, there were there were very few mush- rooms, and Dr. Osterhout noted there were very few calls about them. For the poison control physician, mushroom poisoning can be a major diagno- stic problem because the most frequent victim is a young child, unable to give much helpful information about what he or she ate, who is most likely accompanied by a hysterical parent, also not able to provide much help. Identi- fication of a mushroom species is often very difficult even on an intact speci- page 37 men with full collection data and a stack of identification guides; identifica- tion is virtually impossible on the fragments removed from the stomach. For this reason the emergency room physicain relies more on the symptoms of the patient than on an identification of the mushroom. The time of the onset of symptoms after eating the mushroom(s) is important; if the symptoms appear within six hours then the poisoning, although unpleasant, will almost certainly not be fatal with adequate treatment. Symptoms of the more dangerous type of poisoning usually appear much later. But for all types of potential mushroom poisoning the initial treatment is the same - empty the stomach to get the poison out of the system as soon as possible. The most reliable way to do this for a conscious person is to use syrup of Ipecac. The dose is one tablespoon and one or more large glasses of water. It is also very important to have the person move around. Dr. Osterhout emphasized this treatment does not make the patient feel sick or nauseous but simply makes him regurgitate the stomach contents within 20 minutes. It is much cheaper than a trip to the emergency room and not as unpleasant as gastric lavage, the procedure of passing a tube into the stomach and washing out the contents. In all cases of poisoning the doctor will need to know when the mushrooms were eaten and when the symptoms began to appear. Other important information is whether the mushrooms were cooked or raw, if anyone else ate them and is (or is not) sick, if the patient consumed any alcohol of any type recently (includ- ing medicines containing alcohol), who picked the mushrooms, . and if there are any left. Poisonous mushrooms are divided into seven categories based on the types of poison involved and the symptoms produced. The largest group is the gastroin- testinal irritant- type. These produce nausea and diarrhea (which may be very severe) within 60 to 90 minutes of being eaten. Although the effects of this type of poisoning can be extremely unpleasant and may last for several days the result is rarely fatal. The treatment for this type of poisoning is to remove the toxin by lavage, activated charcoal, and natural means, and to replace the fluids lost. Dr. Osterhout emphasized if you do become ill with this type of poisoning, do not attempt to stop the vomiting and diarrhea because these are the body's ways of eliminating the poison. If the poison is not gotten out you will only be sick longer. One of the most peculiar poisons is disulflram, found in Coprinus atramen- tarius f which possesses Antabuse-like activity. This toxin will only cause illness if alcohol is consumed, even several days after eating the mushroom. This chemical is also used as an herbicide on tobacco fields and could con- ceivably contaminate any mushroom or other plant picked in the vicinity of a treated field. The effects of this type of poisoning are unpleasant but usually last only a few hours. Another group of toxic mushrooms are the Gvromitras. They contain mono- methyl hydrazine, a poison which not only produces serious immediate conse- quences but also is considered a potential carcinogen. Monomethyl hydrazine is a volatile compound and a serious poisoning can result from inhaling the vapors of the mushrooms while they cook. Poisoning results from interference in amino acid metabolism and can lead to blood hemolysis, and damage to the gastrointes- tinal system, liver, kidneys, spleen, and central nervous system. This is one type of mushroom poisoning in which the effects may be very long-term, even with treatment. The next group of mushrooms discussed was the hallucinogens, the Psilocvbes and a few other genera. These mushrooms present a particular problem because there are people who deliberately seek the hallucinations induced by psilocybin, the active component. Besides hallucinations, these mushrooms can also cause gastritis, drowsiness, and loss of concentration. Dr. Osterhout also emphasized page 38 that even though most adults can tolerate the effects of psilocybin, children are particularly at risk and there have been several child fatalities as a result of either deliberate or accidental ingestion of these mushrooms. Hie muscarine group of mushrooms includes many Clitocvbes and Inocvbes. This is the easiest type of mushroom poisoning to treat because there exists a specific antidote, atropine. Muscarine acts by its anticholinesterase activity, which blocks the parasympathetic nervous system. The symptoms of this poisoning are distinctive: the patient may be described as wet, with excess tearing, salivation, and perspiration. Ibotenic acid is a poison with exactly the opposite action of muscarine. Several Amanitas, PanaeolusT and Trlcholomas contain ibotenic acid. Physostig- mine is used as an antidote with generally good results. The last and most deadly group discussed was the amanitin or cyclopeptide containing mushroom. Notable examples of these are Am aril ta phalloides, A. verna, and A*, virosa. The lethal dose of this toxin is as low as 0.1 mg/kg and one "average" cap may contain 7 Jng> however the amount of toxin in any given mushroom has been shown to be extremely variable. Amanitin is a liver and kidney toxin which affects the function of DNA and RNA. This is the only type of mushroom poisoning which has a delayed onset; usually symptoms do not appear until 24 hours after ingesting the mushroom. The symptoms include acute gas- trointestinal distress, dehydration, liver and kidney failure, heart arrhythmia, bleeding, and enlarged lymph nodes. The treatment for amanitin poisoning is generally activated charcoal to remove the poison from the system and supportive measures until the body heals itself. In our concern about avoiding poisonous mushrooms, we should not forget that it is possible to get food poisoning and/or acute allergic reactions from any mushroom, including commercially packaged ones. Allergies are individual reactions but can result in acute illness as well as confusion over what is safe to eat and what is not. Mushrooms for the table should be carefully cleaned, inspected for vermin or rotten parts, cooked promptly, and stored under appro- priate conditions, just as any other food stuff. If you are ever involved in any type of poisoning - mushroom or chemical or medicinal or whatever - there is a 2 4- hour hotline, toll free, to the Duke Poison Control Center. The number is 1-800-672-1697. We are very fortunate to have this service, staffed by knowledgeable people such as Dr. Osterhout, available at all times. Toxici tv Reports The North American Mycological Association Toxicology Committee is at- tempting to collect and centralize data on mushroom poisoning cases and has provided a form to document individual cases. Their letter states: "While the effects of many of the most toxic mushrooms, such as deadly Amanita species, are reasonably well known, toxic effects of many more mushrooms are less well estab- lished. Although we want data on all mushroom poisoning cases, it i3 the latter group with uncertain effects where we feel there is need and opportunity to collect useful data... We are asking for information from the my cophilic /my oo- phagia community where there are probably incidents that, for one reason or another, do not find their way into the emergency medical system." If you are unfortunate enough to experience any adverse effects from eating mushrooms, please help to add to the store of knowledge. Call Ed Haynes (493-7703) or Joan Zeller (383-7154) to obtain a form. Forms are also available from Dr. Kenneth Cochran, School of Public Health, Department of Epidemiology, University of Michigan, Ann Arbor, Michigan 48109. page 39 de Current Events For items marked by *: see May/ June 1984 Funglf lie for details or contact Joan Zeller. July 27-29. ELkins, WV: AUGUSTA HERITAGE ARTS WILD MUSHROOMS WORKSHOP.* July 30. Durham, NC: Lecture on "Mycetismus" (mushroom toxicity) by TAMC member Kerry Givens, as part of the Duke Summer (Medical) Mycology Course. Lec- ture at 11:00am room M422 of Duke Hospital South. Every lecture is open to the public. Contact Dr. Tom Mitchell (684-5792) for more information about the course. August 3-5. ELkins, WV: AUGUSTA HERITAGE ARTS WILD MUSHROOMS WORKSHOP.* August 13-15. Red River, NM: Ristorante II Porcino ITALIAN COOKING SCHOOL fea- turing basic sauces in Italian cooking, wild mushroom hunts in the moun- tains, and preparing, cooking, and tasting wild mushrooms. II Porcino, specializing in wild mushrooms, opened last year by Master Chef Carlo Gislimberti in a family resort area in the high Rockies. Also offered Sept. 4-6. Tuition: $175. Write Ristorante II Porcino, P.O. Box 326, Red River NM 87558 or call (505) 754-6685. August 16-19. Glassboro, NJ: NINTH ANNUAL NORTHEASTERN MYCOLOGICAL FORAY. * August 23-26. Telluride, CO: 4th ANNUAL TELLURIDE WILD MUSHROOM CONFERENCE.* September 4-6. ITALIAN COOKING SCHOOL. See August 13-15 above. September 8-9. Asheville, NC: Asheville Mushroom Club FORAY with Dr. Ron Petersen of the University of Tennessee. See Ron Petersen Foray page 36. September 14-16. Terra Alta, WV: MUSHROOM WEEKEND.* September 14-16. Cairo, WV: NATURE WONDER WEEKEND.* September 20-23. Dorset, Ontario: NORTH AMERICAN MYCOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION FORAY. At the Leslie M. Frost Natural Resources Centre, surrounded by thousands of acres of mixed forests and lakelands in the Haliburton Highlands of On- tario. Registration fee $60 (Cdn.); limited accommodations available $100 (Cdn.) (includes all meals from lunch Thursday to lunch Sunday). For more information contact Joan Zeller or write NAMA 84, c/o Olga Novick, 55 Lace- wood Crescent, Don Mills, Ontario, Canada M3A 223. October 2-19. JAPAN MUSHROOM STUDY TOUR. (Note change in dates.) Cost $3295.* October 5-6. Manteo, NC: OCTOBER MARSH & SEA FEST.* November 29-December 13. TRUFFLING THROUGH EUROPE.* Sandwich Bag? Available The best and easiest way to collect medium sized mushrooms is to store them in wax paper sandwich bags, which have become scarce to non-existent in supermarkets. These bags are available for $10.07 for a box of 1000 bags from: Brame Specialty Co., 949 Washington St., P.O. Box 271, Durham, NC 27702 (phone (919) 683-1331). Ask for Sandwich Bag Plain #204, item #11-00851 . For mail orders, call your local UPS office, ask for postage on 7 lbs. (per box of 1000), and include this with your check. page 40 The Elegant Polvpore by Bill Roody The elegant polypore or blackfooted polypore is a common and easily recog- nized mushroom which is widely distributed in North America. It is included in most mushroom guides as either Polyporus varius or JEj. elegans. The key features are the thin leathery tan colored caps with cream to grayish tubes beneath. The pore openings are angular though so small that it is not always apparent. The pore surface underneath, which sometimes has a slight purplish tinge, descends the frequently off-center stalk where it is joined with a distinctive "black foot" at the point of attachment to dead twigs and branches. The cap varies from round to kidney shape, averaging from one to two inches across. I find it most often on yellow birch, but it also occurs on other hardwoods and, reported- ly, infrequently on conifers. The elegant polypore is too tough and leathery to be considered edible, but the odor is pleasant, enticing and very "mushroomy". Though overlooked by mycophagists the blackfoot can be used to provide a rich mushroom broth which then can be converted into delicious soups, sauces, and gravies. Simply boil the entire caps, after cutting away the base, until the liquid is dark brown (about 15 minutes). Strain and discard the mushrooms. The remaining broth is wholesome and good enouugh to be enjoyed as is or employed in any number of ways. One way I like to use it is by dicing some onion and sauteing in butter. Add to this the mushroom broth and bring to a boil. While boiling, stir in beaten egg and remove from heat. Season with tamari and black pepper and serve. The elegant polypore can often be found when other mushrooms are in short supply and has the added advantage of being easily dried for future use. (The above article is reprinted with permission from the July/ August 1984 issue of Coltsfoot, a bi-monthly journal founded by Bill Roody in appreciation of wild plants. Subscriptions are $10 a year, and are available from the editor, James Troy, Route 1, Box 313 A, Shipman, VA 22 971. Bill is the new editor of the Ohio Mushroom Society's Spore Print, and will be leading two mushroom workshops in El kins, WV this summer (see deCurrent Events)). Mystery Mushroom : £an. loja Identify J£2 This X-rated fungus, drawn here slightly larger than life size by Ruth Lang, was found growing on dead wood by a stream bed at Mason Farm on June 23. The two lower layers were black, the stalk was tan, and the tip was maroon/brown. If you can identify it, please contact Joan Zeller. page 41 More Kudos J& Kerry A photograph of ants crawling over gills of a "North Carolina mushroom" won Kerry Givens an award in a photography contest sponsored by the American As- sociation for the Advancement of Science, and was published in the June 1984 issue of Science 84. So pay attention to Kerry's articles, folks: he knows whereof he speaks. Taking Better Mushroom Photos Part tit: Jhs. sls& a£ Electronic Flashes forf How 1 Found Happiness a Flasher) by Kerry Givens I used to be terrified of my electronic flash. The first few years I owned my camera, I could barely take an acceptable photo with sunlight; so when I added a flash to my camera, my pile of discarded slides grew even faster. The truth is, I just didn't understand the cryptic little calculator dial on the back of my flash. (I think it reminded me of the ninth-grade physics class in which I struggled to master the use of the slide rule). So, for years I re- mained in the dark (so to speak), making wild guesses regarding flash position, aperture settings, etc., when taking flash photos. You can imagine how ghastly the results were. In this way I grew to fear and loathe my flash unit, leaving it at home whenever I could. I think many beginning flash-users become ensnared in the same trap. This article is aimed at those of you who hate the miserable gadgets as much as I used to. I hope to convince you that they are vital accessories for mushroom photographers. Nowadays, at least 30 or 40 percent of my mushroom photos are taken with electronic flash. Flash has become an absolute necessity for me since many of my pictures could not have been produced without artificial lighting. Especial- ly when using a "slow" (e.g. relatively light-insensitive) film like Kodachrome 25 — the only color film I use for fungus photos ~ photography in dimly lit habitats can often mean impossibly long shutter speeds. This is especially true when using a narrow aperture like f22 or f32 (and this is usually the case when photographing mushrooms, as I discussed in Part II). Furthermore, the more magnification one uses - that is, the closer you focus - the less light reaches the film. Again, this spells ridiculously long shutter speeds when using Koda- chrome and natural light. Unfortunately, Kodachrome simply is not designed to produce realistic color when subjected to super-long exposure times, say 25 seconds or more. Electronic flash circumvents this problem by supplying enough light to permit small apertures and fairly rapid exposure times. Choosing & Flash Even if you own a flash that's only 2 or 3 years old, it may already be obsolete by the standards of today's rapidly progressing electronic flash mar- ket. Below I will briefly summarize the major breeds of today's flashes. Please note the discussion is far from complete. Every time I open the latest issue of Popular Photography I see ads for new, gimmick-laden flashes. Many of the "extras" on today's flashes are of no benefit whatsoever to a close-up photographer. In fact, it's getting hard to find flashes that do not have at least a few superfluous features thrown on. A flash-buyer's ultimate selection of a unit must be therefore tempered by the question "Will I be using this flash for situations other than close-up photography as well?" Here I will concen- trate on those features that pertain especially to close-up photography. Basically, there are 2 styles of flash unit: automatic or manual (and some units offer both modes). A manual flash emits a fixed amount of light when fired; since this amount of light is constant with each flash, your lens must page 42 be set at only one specif io f- stop in order to get a properly exposed picture. The exact f-stop required will vary from picture to picture depending on the film you use, the power of the flash unit, and how far away the subject is from the camera and flash. Thus, the appropriate f-stop must be calculated each time you take a picture with the flash. Normally this calculation is done using a calculator dial on the side of the flash — you dial in the film speed and distance from the subject, and the dial indicates what f-stop should be set on the the lens. Unfortunately, for close-up photography, the dial is useless since a slightly different set of calculations is needed (as I'll discuss later) . Automatic flashes feature a built-in sensor that "sees" the flash light as it bounces back from the subject. The sensor "decides" when the subject has been properly illuminated, and at that precise instant, turns off the flash. Because automatic flashes can vary their own light output in this fashion, the photographer is not limited to only one f-stop: instead, he can select any of a range of 3 or 4 aperture settings. Provided the lens is set at one of these f- stops, the flash will adjust its light to properly expose the picture. Again, the exact set of f-stops you can select from will vary from picture to picture depending on film speed, distance from the subject, and the maximum power of the unit. So once again, you must refer to a calculator dial to determine which set of f-stops is permis sable. Automatic flashes are the proverbial cat's pajamas for candid vacation photos, wedding photos, etc., but miss the proverbial boat when it comes to mushroom photography. In Part I of this epic, I mentioned that the sensor on a typical automatic flash cannot be aimed very accurately when the subject is very small, i.e. Mvcena- sized. In this situation, the sensor is usually pointed at something other than the tiny mushroom you're trying to photograph, and the flash will fail to correctly expose the picture. That's why most automatic flash manufacturers warn that the flash should not be used at distances closer than 18" to the subject. Since mushroom photos often require a much smaller focusing distance, automatic flashes just aren't the answer if you're hoping to find a "point- and-shoot, " no-calculations- required system. As of May, 1984, I think the best way to get consistently good flash exposures is to use a manual flash and calculate the correct settings by hand. Some photographers may argue that point. Within the last few years, some top-of-the-line cameras have appeared containing a special, built-in flash- metering system. The system is referred to as "off the film plane flash meter- ing." When one of these cameras is coupled to a specially designed flash, the camera can correctly expose flash photos by measuring the flash light that actually reaches the film while the exposure is underway. When the meter senses that the film has received enough light for a correctly- exposed picture, an electronic impulse from the camera instantly extinguishes the flash. This technical wizardry really has brought us a little closer to "point and shoot" flash photography. But the system still has a few bugs in it. Namely, many photos require the use of more than one flash unit to achieve natural-looking lighting. In such a situation the photographer must be able to control the light output of each flash; one flash unit should provide most of the illumination for the photo, while the other flashes should be adjusted to provide a much smaller amount of light ("fill-in" light) to soften obnoxious shadows made by the main flash. Most of the of f-the-film-plane-flash-meter cameras made today are not designed to operate in this fashion. When you hook multiple flashes to one of these cameras, it can usually give you a properly exposed photo, but it's very diffi- cult to regulate the amount of light coming from individual flashes — that is, you can't readily balance the lighting effectively. Cost is another considera- page 43 tion. Although off- the- film- plane flash metering is now appearing on some lower-priced camera bodies (e.g., Minolta X-570, Nikon FG) , the flashes are still rather expensive. Furthermore you'll need to buy special extension cords if you want to position your flashes more than a few inches away from the camera (almost always the case in my mushroom photos). My nature photography buddies tend to agree that off- the- film- plane technology needs some improvement before we'll give up the tried-and-true, time-honored technique of manual flash expo- sure. My advice to beginning mushroom photographers: keep an eye on develop- ments in off- the- film- plane cameras for a few more years before owning one. I need to mention one last variety of automatic flash — the so-called "dedicated" flash. "Dedicated" means that the flash can perform certain acces- sory functions when coupled to the correct camera. Most dedicated flash units will automatically set the camera's shutter speed at 1/60 or 1/125 second (in case you already didn't know it, all cameras must be set at a specific synchro- nization speed when using flash, usually 1/125 or slower. If you accidentally select a faster shutter speed, the flash won't fire until the shutter has already partially closed. The result is a bizarre, half-black photo destined for the wastebasket) . Especially when you're a beginning flash-user, it's all too easy to forget about setting the correct synchronization speed as you fumble about with your tripod, flash cords, etc., so this feature of dedicated flashes is useful indeed. Most dedicated flashes cause a light to glow in your camera's viewfinder when the flash is fully charged and ready to fire. Furthermore, on many dedi- cated units, a light on the back of the flash will glow for a few seconds after the picture is snapped to indicate that the picture was properly exposed. Remember, dedicated flashes must be custom matched to your make and model of camera: a dedicated flash designed for Canon cameras will not work properly on an Olympus body, and so on. Also, older cameras lack the special electronics needed to interface with dedicated flashes. So, before you buy that dedicated unit, check your camera instruction manual to see if it's compatible. I have no problems recommending dedicated flash units to beginning mushroom photographers; however, remember that a dedicated flash is just another automa- tic flash with a few high-tech features, and like all automatic flashes, cannot be counted upon to deliver correctly exposed close-up photos on its own. If you buy a dedicated flash, I recommend that you buy one that offers manual settings as well as automatic. I'll briefly discuss one last feature: power. As a Kodachrome user, I have developed a true lust for power — flash power, that is. I use some fairly bright flashes in my work, yet Kodachrome 25 is such a "slow" film that I often have to hold the flashes only 5 or 6 inches away from the subject for a properly exposed picture. So... the stronger the flash, the farther away you can hold it — and if you've ever done much macrophotography with a 55mm lens (which often requires a very close working distance), you're grateful for every extra inch of room you can get. Especially when you're trying to wedge two flash units in near the mushroom, things can get pretty crowded. So buy powerful. As I mentioned in Part I of this tome, flash power is reported in terms of the mysterious guide number. This value depends on the film speed (ASA #) , that is, the faster the film (or the higher the ASA #), the more powerful the flash will appear to that film. Stated another way, the more light-sensitive the film, the more easily the flash will expose it. So as you raise the ASA value, the corresponding guide number is higher. If you plan on shooting Kodachrome 25 to any great extent, I recommend a flash with an ASA 25 guide number of about 50-60 (equivalent to an ASA 100 guide number of 100-110). Want to figure out the guide number of the flash you already own? Set the calculator dial to ASA 25. Then see what f-stop lines up with the 10-foot mark page H4 on the "distance" dial. To get the guide number, just multiply this f-stop times Ifl. feet, e.g., f5.6 X 10 ft. = guide number of 56. Fortunately, there are plenty of powerful flash units out there, waiting to be bought. Unfortunately, as the power goes up, so does the number of useless extra features and (you guessed it) the price, too. Some shrewd shopping is required to zero in on the right unit. These days, Vivitar and Sunpak are making some good units in the $35 .00-$65.00 range. As I warned in Part I, you may want to buy two if you're after professional looking results. And if you don't buy the same model, at least get two flashes with the same guide number. When you do the calculations to determine flash- to- subject distance (to be discussed in Part IV), it'll make life much easier. My fountain pen is running as dry as my wit, making this an excellent place to stop for now. In the breath-taking conclusion of this series, I'll discuss power sources for flashes. More importantly, I'll also subject you to my formula for actually using flashes in mushroom photography. In the meantime, you many want to check out Popular Photography's SLR Photography 1 Q84 magazine, an annual publication on newsstands now. There's a swell article on close-up photography within by John Shaw — even features a mushroom photograph. And if the $3.95 cover price is too much to bear, you can always sneak in to the local supermarket and read it there. But you may have to wait until the cheapskates like me finish reading it. Farewell ilQ. St eye and me Last Word) Fungif ile Editor-by-Def ault Steve Warner has recently moved to the Washington, D.C. area. Thanks for his help in getting computerized. And please note this will mark the end of "The Last Word"... for better or for worse. Triangle Area Mushroom Club P.O. Box 17061 Durham, NC 27705 « * « • « • • « « • • • • • « • • ft • « • • * • 5 FIG. X. FAIRY-RING FUNGUS. the fijngifile Newsletter of theTriangle Area Mushroom Club P.O. Box 17061, Durham, North Carolina 27705 Volume 3 Number 5 September/ October 1984 President: Ed Haynes, 3447 Hope Valley Rd. , Durham, NC 27707 493-7703 Secretary/ Treasurer: Jacques Poirier, 210 W. Lavender Ave., Durham, NC 27704 477-5837 Editor: Joan Zeller, 700 Morreene Rd. Apt. G-11, Durham, NC 27705 383-7154 Foray Chair: Dianne Berg, Rt. 1, Box 122, Pittsboro, NC 27312 933-9628 Program Chair: This space available MARK YOUR CALENDAR: Meetings: September 10: Covered dish meal, fellowship, and identification session. Please bring something to eat (the more mushrooms, the better), field guides and mushrooms to identify after the eats (if there are no mushrooms around, bring slides to show). (This will be a good opportunity for those of you who are interested in purchasing a field guide to use and compare the various books which are available.) At the home of Ed & Elaine Haynes, 3447 Hope Valley Road (NC 751), Durham, 7:30 pm. See map on page 53. October 8: "The Rotten World Around Usn video shown by Calvin Wong, friend of TAMC, who has accompanied us on several forays. Some of you may have seen this fascinating film on PBS TV last fall. According to the Colorado Myco- logical Society's Spores Afield, the "film captures beauty of the fungi world. .. Ecological relationships are shown as the film unravels the mys- teries of mushrooms and molds, and shows how fungi feed, grow and multip- ly...They may at times revolt us - yet fungi also cure, feed and delight us." The time-lapse and microphotography are sensational. (You may never again feel quite the same about fungi after watching a mold engulf a bowl of fruit; this film was not made to convert the skeptical to mycophilia.) At the home of Ed & Elaine Haynes, address above, at 8: 00 pm. Members only, please. For information, call 493-7703. See map on page 53. November 12: Slide show presented by member Jack Billman. (Remember Jack's beautiful slides from last year's December meeting?) (He may also throw in some underwater shots.) Meeting at 7:30 pm at the NC Museum of Life & Science in Durham (433 Murray Ave: take Duke St./Roxboro exit off of 1-85 near Northgate Shopping Center & go north; turn right on to Murray Ave. at second light) . December 10: Annual potluck and member slide show. Details will be announced in next issue. Forays: September 16, Sun: (note: target date only, subject to change). Contact person and technical leader: Odile Gould (41 Green Mill Lane, Durham, NC 27707). page 46 This foray will have a different format from our others. Odile will scout out likely areas, and depending on weather and mushroom conditions at the time, will select an exact date, time, and place to ensure a fruitful foray. She will notify those who have expressed an interest in attending. To be notified, you must send her a postcard, and tell her how to reach you. This will not obligate you to go, but it is the only way you will be notified. September 29 > Sat: Mason Farm in Chapel Hill, 10 am. Contact person and technical leader: Owen McConnell (477-5178). October 14, Sun: Battle Park in Chapel Hill. Meet at Texaco Station, 10 am. Contact person and technical leader: Bill Burk (942-6 3 87). October 27, Sat: Mason Farm in Chapel Hill, 10 am. Aside from the mushrooms, Jim Serne, Outings Chair of the Sierra Club Headwaters Group, will be along to teach us how to find our way around in the woods off the beaten trail - how to use topographical maps & compass. Bring a compass if you have one. Topo maps of the area will be available. Contact person Dianne Berg. Foray Information Meeting sites: Texaco Station: University Mall parking lot in Chapel Hill, corner of Estes Drive and 15-501 Bypass. Mason Farm: Finley Golf Course parking lot in Chapel Hill, Old Mason Farm Rd. off 15-501 Bypass between Hwy 54 (Raleigh Rd.) and NC Botanical Garden. Trips will not be cancelled for rain, unless there is a deluge. If ques- tionable, call contact person in the morning to see if it is deluging. Bring a basket or box for collecting, wax paper or bags for wrapping specimens (not plastic wrap or baggies), knife, field guide, notebook, whistle, compass if you have one, insect repellent, and lunch. Dues are Due See renewal form on last page It's getting to be that time again, folks. Dues for 1985 are payable by January 1. Although that may seem far off, it's only one newsletter away, and December is as busy a month for Secretary/Treasurers as it is for the rest of us. So please keep the last minute paperwork to a minimum for all of us, and renew early. A word (or few) about our new dues structure. Remember that the old Family memberships have been replaced by a combination of Individual ($8) and Associate ($2) memberships. This was done in order to clarify how many votes a "family" will get. All adult Individual and Associate members have equal voting and office holding privileges; publications will be paid for by the Individual member of the family, and everyone will share the incidental expenses. Corres- ponding members ($7) pay for newsletter subscription only. Our apologies for raising the dues: we feel we have kept the increase within reason, but that it is necessary to cover higher costs of the newsletter and other aspects of the club. Dues were initially set to cover only the costs of printing and mailing the newsletter, but two years of experience has taught us that other expenses are involved in maintaining a club. The hidden costs that have been borne by a few individuals can be now be fairly shared by all. NAMA membership; The North American Mycological Association is the national amateur mushroom club. It serves as a network for tying together mycophiles throughout the continent, and for centralizing data, with a bimonthly page 47 newsletter and yearly journal. Educational programs and other information services are also offered. A large exciting foray is held every year, featuring field trips, classes, workshops, and professional mycologists who identify the finds for us (and themselves) to study. NAMA is an important resource and, we feel, deserves our support. Membership, which is optional, is normally $15 a year, but since TAMC is an affiliated club, our members are eligible to join at $12 (individual or family). Please send a separate check with your application payable to NAMA. Note: As of this printing, the NAMA trustees have not yet met to determine 1985 dues. If dues are raised, and you have paid at the old rate, we will notify you. _A Temporary Farewell - and Plea Jacques Poirier, our Secretary/Treasurer, will very soon be taking a sab- batical leave of absense in California. He has been doing a wonderful job, above and beyond the call of duty, and we will certainly miss him. Members: Consider this a plea for help from your already overworked officers: is there a budding Secretary/Treasurer out there? deCurrent Events For items marked by *: see May/ June 1984 or July/ August 1984 Fungif ile for details or contact Joan Zeller. September 8-9. Asheville, NC: Asheville Mushroom Club FORAY with Dr. Ron Petersen of the University of Tennessee. Several spots are still available so contact Barbara Beaman (477-1865) immediately if you are interested. Fee of $15 covers everything including Saturday dinner and Sunday breakfast.* September 12. Chapel Hill, NC: Kerry Givens will present an updated version of his popular slide show "Creatures Nobody Loves" (including new mushroom pictures, among others) at the NC Botanical Garden. A nominal fee is charged, and reservations must be made through the Garden. Call 967-2246. September 14-16. Terra Alta, WV: MUSHROOM WEEKEND. * September 14-16. Cairo, WV: NATURE WONDER WEEKEND.* September 20-23. Dorset, Ontario: NORTH AMERICAN MYCOLCGICAL ASSOCIATION FORAY* October 5-6. Manteo, NC: OCTOBER MARSH & SEA FEST.* November 29-December 13. TRUFFLING THROUGH EUROPE.* Foray Notes by Dianne Berg, Foray Chair July performed admirably for us. Frequent rains contributed to an unusual- ly prolific mushroom crop. Our forays this summer have been characterized by good company, many mushrooms and alas, some bad company in the form of ticks, chiggers and other six-legged creatures. David Higgins has been keeping a list of species collected, particularly of those found on our Mason Farm forays. For Mason Farm, we tried to list the location by recording the nearest experimental plot-stake number with our finds in the hope that they can be correlated with habitat data. Chatham County was again the site of a number of forays this season. Dry Creek, Alice Phalan and Jace Hobbs' land, always produces for us. Dry Creek is certainly a misnomer for this swift and beautiful Piedmont stream. Wally Kaufman's land at Saralyn with its stands of mature beech and oak is another page 48 site that can always be counted on and this past July 8 was no exception. Wally showed us how he preserves mushrooms simply by drying them on window screens placed across sawbenches. As an added treat, he cooked up dishes of Chan- terelles, Russulas and Lactarius collected on the foray to augment our lunches. We held a previously unscheduled foray on June 29 > also in Chatham County, when Jacques Poirier relayed a request to me from Irwin Kremen, who played host to composer John Cage during his appearance at the American Dance Festival. John Cage (whom we welcome as a new TAMC member) wanted to see some of the countryside while pursuing a favorite pastime. The weather was inhospitably dry so I chose Terrells Creek on the land of Lois Ann and Grimsley Hobbs in the hope that if there was enough moisture anywhere for mushrooms to be found, it would be along the banks of Terrells. And if the mushrooms were not forthcoming, we could at least see a beautiful 1 8th century mill on a equally beautiful creek. Fortunately, dry weather notwithstanding, the mushrooms were out. John Cage was able to give us all lessons in collecting for the table. He collected some boletes and Amanita rubescens for himself. Thanks go especially to the Hobbses for playing impromptu hosts to us. Grim was recuperating from a knee operation but Lois Ann came along on our walk and graciously invited us to tour the mill. Jack Billman led two successful forays for us this summer, one at Mason Farm and the other in Schenck Memorial Forest in Raleigh. The turnout at Schenck was tremendous. Notable for sheer numbers of both people and mushrooms. Many chanterelles were collected along with a voluminous species list - just ask David I There certainly is an interest in mushrooming in the Raleigh corner of our Triangle Area. For the rest of the season, we have September and October Mason Farm forays to look forward to. September 29th will be led by bolete expert Owen McConnell and on October 27th we will be accompanied by Jim Serne who will give us a much needed lesson in orienteering. Odile Gould will lead a special foray in the Durham area in September and Bill Burk will lead us on a walk through Battle Park in Chapel Hill on October 14. So the Fall promises good mushrooming. Hope to see you there. Data Base of TAMC Forav Finds by Ed Haynes In the course of putting together the foray lists for our very rich forays at Wally Kaufman's (see Saralvn Forav Lists p. 49) and entering into this data base our finds at Mason Farm and elsewhere, we are moving toward the creation of a central TAMC foray list. When our "official" finds are assembled, they will be summarized or distributed in the Fungif ile. This ability to see, graph- ically, what we've found where, will be especially helpful in evaluating our Mason Farm foray finds, and will hopefully aid stumped individuals trying to identify local finds. As a part of this data base, to deepen our (emerging) sense of what comes where and when, we encourage local TAMC members to submit lists of private forays and of more informal finds (in your front yard, for example). All we ask is: 1) careful identification - if you've doubts, don't report it (or say how it differs from what you think it's close to); 2) let us know when (date) and where (town, address, county, whatever) you found what you've found; and 3) try to keep to "standard" nomenclature (Miller's book, or the Audubon guide, but some things may require a wider scope (for boletes, for example, Coker and Beers may be unavoidable); in these cases, strive for modern nomenclature and cite your source.) Please send contributions to Ed Haynes. (All contributors will get copies of their personal lists at the time the TAMC list is printed out.) page 49 Saralvn Forav Lists by Ed Haynes On July 8, the TAMC and a number of welcomed guests enjoyed the hospitality and the lush mushrooms of member Wally Kaufman's land in Chatham County. The list of finds from this foray was extensive, including 52 species. In the course of preparing this list it was felt some comparison might be useful (or at least interesting) with the first TAMC foray, held on October 9, 1982, also at Wally's (see November/December 1982 Fungif ilet page 4). The two lists on page 50 are interesting, not only to record what we found, but also to give a sense of the spring/fall seasonality of North Carolina mushrooms of the Triangle Area. Eating Smut by Ed Haynes Smut (smut, sb. . . ( Related to Smut, v.., (f. LG. schmutt f G. Schmutz. . .also MHG. Smuz, smutz fat, grease....) 1 . A fungous disease afflicting various plants, espec. cereals. .. .2. A black mark or stain, a smudge.... 3. Coal- mining. Bad, soft, earthy coal.... 4. Soot or sooty mat- ter...^. Indecent or obscene language.... (The Compact Edi tion of the Oxford English Dictionary. 2:2886b) Well, since we are going to talk about eating it, I guess we'll restrict ourselves to the first meaning. In fact, the common black corn smut (Ustilago mavdis) that many of us see dominating our otherwise unsuccessful corn patches is considered rather of a delicacy in Mexican cooking. Known by its Nahuatl name of Huitlacoche (huitlatl = excrement, cochtli = sleep?), the inky fungus is commercially sold and eaten with relish in many parts of Mexico. One recipe, perhaps more of a curiosity than something we all will rush out to cook, has been adapted from Diana Kennedy's Recipes from the Regional Cooks of Mexico : Huitlacoche con Calabacitas Estilo Queretaro (Corn Fungus with Zucchini) Heat 1/4 cup light ( peanut /saf flower) oil and gently fry 2 large green onions and 1 clove of garlic, both finely chopped, until soft. Add 1 pound diced zucchini, a little at a time, and fry over a fairly high heat for a few minutes. Slowly add 1 cup of fresh corn kernels, continuing to stir and fry. Chop roughly 1 pound of Ustilago mavdis (about 3 cups), add slowly to the frying vegetables. Add 2 hot green chiles, cut into thin strips, and 1/2 teaspoon salt, cover the pan and cook slowly for about 15 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. If necessary, add a little water to prevent sticking. When almost done, add 1 heaping tablespoon of chopped epazote (Chenopodium ambrosiodes) leaves, if available; if epazote is not available, don't try to substitute, you can't. The dish should serve six. It is important to approach this dish with some thought. You should be certain that your Huitl acoche is fresh. 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C 'u ■» 1 « J J page 51 Mushrooms as Carnivores ! by Bill Burk Much knowledge has already been gathered about different microscopic fungi that catch or snag various roundworms, more scientifically called nematodes. These fungi capture their prey by ingenious devices, such as adhesive knobs or nets, and rings, some of which act as lassoes to constrict the hapless worm. Recently an article in the journal Science (volume 224, pages 76-78, 1984), has presented some exciting and interesting information on mushrooms that are also resorting to methods of attacking or using roundworms for nourishment. As the early stage of rotting wood is a nitrogen poor substrate, a meal of nema- todes would thus suggestably provide certain wood inhabiting mushrooms with a nitrogen supplement. The investigators tested a total of 27 species of mushrooms for possible nematode trapping, with 11 species found with the ability of destroying the worms. Three methods of using roundworms by mushrooms are described. The oyster mushroom, Pleurotus ostreatus, and 4 other species of Pleurotus release a toxin that immobilizes their wormy prey and then penetrate their victims. In Hohenbuehelia species and another agaric, adhesive devices shaped like hourglasses are produced on their hyphae. When a passing nematode touches this sticky device it can not escape and the fungus invades the worm's tissue. The third way mushrooms dine on nematodes is to produce sticky knobs, not on hyphae, but on conidiospores. After snagging its victim, the fungus then permeates it. Two species of Hohenbuehelia use this last technique. The authors of this article believe that other mushrooms utilizing nematodes for food will be discovered, but the intricate, ecological significance of these fungi has yet to be fully unravelled. (Thanks to Agna Calingaert for bringing this article to my attention.) Melzer's's Legal Dickinson & Lucas, in The Encyclopedia of Mushrooms (Crescent, 1983), define Melzer's solution as being "used for testing the starch (blue-black) and dextrin (red-brown) reactions of spores." According to Anne Dow, editor of the Mycological Association of Washington, D.C. newsletter Capitol Mushrumors, "...the Drug Enforcement Administration has just made Melzer's (which contains the controlled substance chloral hydrate, schedule IV) readily available to the amateur mycological public through the Florida Mycology Research Center..." The following is excerpted from an article Anne wrote in the May/ June 1984 issue of the newsletter: "To get a vial of Melzer's, send $10, along with a signed statement that the reagent will be used only in identifying mushrooms, & not for any other use, to: Florida Mycology Research Center, Box 8104, Pensacola, FL 32505, (904) 478- 3912. Not sure what you'd be paying for? No one has described it better than Dave Patterson in the N.J. Mycological Association's NJMA News (when?), reprinted in the Mt . Mazama Mvcographia for March '83: 'Melzer's reagent is prepared by mixing four substances together. In parts by weight they are: water, 20; potassium iodide, 1.5; iodine, 0.5; chloral hydrate, 20. Unfortunately, chloral hydrate is a dangerous and controlled chemical which has been used as a nerve sedative & soporific. It is commonly known as a Mickey Finn (knockout drops). Film buffs will recall numerous Warner melodramas of the '30s in which the hero was slipped a mickey in his drink. It was undoubtedly the potion that Sydney page 52 Greenstreet used to send Bogey bye-bye in their second encounter in The Maltese Falcon. The Broadway actress & cinema beauty, Jeanne Eagels, died from an overdose of chloral hydrate in 1 92 9 . f n Mushroom Morsels by Sylvia Stein (This article is reprinted from the Fall 1983 issue of the COMA News, newsletter of the Connect! cut- West Chester Mycological Association.) From our avid mushroom collector, Ted Matejka, comes this method of preparing Boletes and other mushrooms. He is glad to share his know-how with you. And some of us who have tried this system agree this is a great way to store your mushrooms in the refrigerator for up to 5-6 weeks. 1 . Remove any surface dirt (peel any Suillus) 2. Slice mushrooms and place in pot with water to cover 3. Add a good dash of vinegar and some salt 4. Bring to a boil and simmer a few minutes 5. With slotted spoon lift mushrooms out into a jar 6. Add settled water and just enough more to cover mushrooms When ready to use remove mushrooms without disturbing any sediment at bottom of jar. Prepare any way you like. Flash Fans Sorry to disappoint all you photography buffs who hoped to see here Kerry Givens' final tome on how to take close-up flash pictures. The demands of medical school do not always allow for such extracurricular pleasures as writing books on one's hobbies. Kerry says next time, for sure. Free Pamphl et A 12-page pamphlet Edible &. Poisonous Mushrooms, by Barbara Bassett with color illustrations has been written to introduce the people of Missouri to wild mushrooms. It is well done and illustrated. To obtain your free copy write: The Conservation Commission of Missouri, 1221 S. Brentwood Blvd., St. Louis, MO 63117. (Reprinted from the Many/ June 1 Q8U Mvcophile. newsletter of the North American Mycological Association.) The Last Word Despite comments to the contrary last issue, The Last Word is alive and, well, under new management. It will appear whenever submissions, anonymous or otherwise, are submitted. This issue's anonymous contribution: American democracy can tolerate the occasional red patches in the green background, occasional bitterness with the sweet. Witness the popularity of the patriotic song, "God Bless Emetica. " 5J> S*.u 1 97 4: "This book gives you whimsy and gentle lessons in ecology. It's a wonderful read-aloud book for grade schoolers, one which the adult doing the reading will enjoy too." (Thanks to Maggie Rogers in Mushroom Magazine, Spring 1984). The Misjudged Mushroom , by Ida Bohatta, English version by John Theobald, Ars Edition, about $5, 1981: "...little treasure - a fable of good & bad mushrooms, in full-color drawings & verse." How to tell Agaricus from Amanita. (Thanks to Anne Dow in Nov ember /December 1 983 Capitol MushrumorsT newsletter of the Mycological Association of Washington, D.C.) Lisa and the Grompet, by Patricia Coombs, Lothrop, Lee and Shepard Co., 32 pp., 197 0: "One of life's saddest phrases, 'My father hunted mushrooms, but I never did,' would never occur if this book were shared between parent and child. The mushrooms are never mentioned, they are simply all around in the pictures, and would make for wonderful discussions after read-aloud time." "...a somewhat more sophisticated, and certainly desirable, replacement for 'Look Dick, look Jane, see the evil toadstool.'" Large type and simple sentence structure. (Maggie Rogers in Mushroom Magaz ine . Spring 1984). The Prize Pig Surprize, story and pictures by Lisa Campbell Ernst, Morrow, $10.95, 1984: "This is a book tested out by Emily, our 3 1/2-year-old. She thinks it a wonderful story and enjoys the illustrations. .. This story is all about dinner and how not to become it by snuffling out truffles." (Thanks to Elon G. Eidenier in Duke University's Gothic Bookshop's The Gargoyle. September 1 984.) Mushrooms in the Rain, by Mirra Ginsburg, adapted from Russian of V. Sute- yev, illustrated by J. Aruego & A. Dewey, Collier-Macmillan, NY, $2.50, 1978: A page 5 9 frog explains and why there is room for all the animals that escape from the rain under the expanding cap, because of what happens to mushrooms in the rain. For 2-4 year olds. (Thanks to Gary Alan Fine in Mushroom Magaz ine « Fall 1984.) Mushrooms: A. Lerner Natural Science Book, edited by Sylvia A. Johnson, original Japanese version by Chaim Uri, Lerner Publications Co., 241 First Ave. N. , Minneapolis, MN 55401, 48 pp., $8.95 + $.85 postage, 1 982: "Discusses how mushrooms and other fungi get their food, grow, and produce more of their own kind." Diagrams and beautiful color pictures. Mousekin's Mvsterv. by Edna Miller, Prentice Hall, $10.95, 1983: "This beautifully illustrated book tells the mystery of the foxfire effect..." (Thanks to Maggie Rogers in Mushroom Magaz ine T Spring 1984. Subscriptions to Mushroom Magazine are $12 for 4 issues from Box 3156, University Station, Moscow, ID 83843.) Mushrooms of the World Col oring Book, by Jeannette Bowers & David Arora, Dover Publications, $2.75, 1984. Essbare und Gif tige PilzeT 1975, ISBN 3-8089-3506-5. Allerlei .Eilze., 1976, ISBN 3-8089-3507-3. "Two superb little mushroom picture/coloring books from Germany (with colored & uncolored drawings of the same species on facing pages)." (Thanks to Anne Dow in Caoi tol Mushrumors. ) Vicarious Mushrooming In the cold months ahead when the mushrooms are in hiding, the best forag- ing may well be done between the covers of books. In the next Fungi filef I'd like to include a list & descriptions of literature (other than texts and field guides) where fungi or mushrooming play a part. But I need help - I know these stories and books exist, but I don't know of very many yet. Please drop me a card if you are aware of anything, along with a couple lines about the relevant parts. (Send to Joan Zeller, 700 Morreene Rd. , Apt. G-11, Durham, NC 27705.) EARTHWATCH : TJae Mushroom Connection The following is reprinted from the Fall 1984 EARTHWATCH magazine. EARTHWATCH is a non-profit organization which brings together scientists and volunteers willing to contibute their skills and energy to research expeditions. For information, write EARTHWATCH, 10 Juniper Rd. , Box 127, Belmont, MA 02178. 617-489-3030. (Thanks to the anonymous member (?) who sent in the article.): A control subject in a recent study of blood platelet aggregation - clotting - ruined the experiment when his platelets refused to clump. The night before, it turned out, he had enjoyed a huge meal of ma-po dou-fu (Sichuan hot bean curd) complete with the traditional black tree fungus, or wood-ear mushrooms. The wood-ears, upon further detective work, proved to be the culprits: a substance isolated from them inhibits platelet aggregation. The Chinese have consumed vast quantities of wood-ears for a thousand years. They know them as mu-er (thus the "moo" of northern Chinese "moo-shi" dishes); what's more, the Chinese hold that mu-er "thins" the blood. The plot thickens: the Chinese have a low incidence of atherosclerosis - the constrict- ing of arterial walls that leads to heart attacks, strokes, and other vascular diseases. Is this merely a coincidence? Dr. Lloyd Axelrod, a vascular disease and diabetes specialist at the Massa- chusetts General Hospital and the Harvard Medical School, is intrigued by this possible mushroom connection. At the invitation of the Science and Technology page 6 0 Commission of Guandong Province, he, EARTHWATCH, and Chinese officials are negotiating an 1 8-day expedition in March 1 985 (Mar 18-Apr 4) to explore the current research status, pharmacological characteristics, cultural uses, and folklore of the black tree fungus. Axelrod seeks especially epidemiologists, botanists, statisticians, and pollsters, both for planning and implementing this multi-disciplinary investigation. Call Catherine Schlager at EARTHWATCH for more details. (Staging Area: Guangzhou, China; Share of Costs: $3850.) Taking Better Mushroom Photos Part IVj. Using Electronic Flash by Kerry Givens Many photographers would agree that the ideal flash photograph of a mushroom should be indistinguishable from one taken with natural light; the illumination should be soft and even. In practice, however, the "natural light" look can be difficult to obtain when using flash, especially when you're shooting a slow, light-insensitive film like Kodochrome 25. Although the average electronic flash may appear blinding to our eyes, Kodochrome 25 has much dimmer vision (pardon the anthropomorphism) than the human retina. In the field this means that a great deal of flashpower is needed to illuminate even very small subjects. In part this is because much of the large beam of flash misses the tiny mushroom entirely. More importantly, small objects cannot reflect much light back onto the film. Furthermore, the flash light rapidly disperses once past the subject; thus, most flashes fail to illuminate the background of a mushroom photo, especially if the background is more than several inches behind the mushroom. In many flash photos, the result is often an unnatural black background. Are natural looking-flash photos impossible? No, but you won't create any unless you're aware of the above shortcomings. So, most of what follows is my strategy for dodging the built-in pitfalls of artificial lighting to produce a natural-looking mushroom photo. One Flash or Two? It seems that few of the currently available crop of nature photography books advocate the use of two flashes in close-up photography. I think that this is because most close-up nature photographers are not photographing mushrooms nowadays; rather, I'm seeing a plethora of photos of frogs, butter- flies, spiders, and wildf lower blossoms in today's nature publications. Most of these subjects can be adequately illuminated with a single flash because they tend to be very flat (e.g., butterflies, a frog floating on the surface of a pool, etc.), or have no background needing illumination (e.g., a frame-filling photo of an orchid blossom, or a spider dangling in midair). Furthermore, these subjects often require no flash at all, because they are frequently found in well lit settings, unlike most fungi. Also, mushrooms tend to be very three- dimensional objects. This means that light coming from a single direction, such as one flash unit, will fail to illuminate some surfaces. These areas will be consumed by shadows, obscuring the beauty of the specimen. And because most mushrooms grow attached to the ground by a narrow stalk, any photograph of an entire 'shroom from a low angle will invariably show a lot of background. As I've stressed already, a single flash aimed to illuminate the subject will fail to illuminate much background. Even if it could, you're still stuck with the ugly black shadow that the mushroom stalk casts on the ground. The only sol- ution to illuminating the entire mushroom and simultaneously eliminating shadowy backgrounds is to add another strategically aimed flash. I can think of only one situation in my mushroom photography experience where a single flash will provide consistently well illuminated pictures — page 61 namely, in the very close-up range. When taking close-ups of fungi that are roughly 1 1/2" or smaller, one usually has to bring the flash very near to the subject to provide enough light at such high magnification. At this scale, the flash becomes a fairly enormous source of light relative to the size of the mushroom. Put another way, imagine yourself being lit up by a flash the size of your living room wall. When the light-emitting surface of the flash is much larger than the subject, even very three-dimensional subjects will be well bathed in light. And, due to the need for very close focusing with small mushrooms, the area of background is usually also very small. Thus the back- ground usually is suitably lit by a single flash in this situation. Obviously, frame-filling close-ups of a very small part of a larger mush- room — say, a close-up of bits of universal veil on an Amani ta cap — can be successfully illuminated by one flash for the same reasons. My close-up of ants on mushroom gills in last June's Science '84 magazine was a single flash picture, for instance. Unless you only photograph extreme close-ups, however, single flash photography is inadequate for the majority of mushroom photography. Nowadays only ten or twenty percent of my 'shroom pictures are single flash territory. This probably reflects my personal bias, namely, that photos of entire mushrooms are always more aesthetic than scientific close-ups of isolated parts. Any way you slice it, two- flash technique is useful to learn — not only for mushrooms, but for many other situations in nature photography as well. Setting Up Two Flashes ...requires some planning and practice! Let me reiterate an earlier com- ment that a good, sturdy tripod is essential in mushroom photography, especially when you have three objects to hold — your camera and two flashes. What usually works for me is to mount the camera on the tripod and hold a flash in each hand. All that's left is to figure out a way to push the shutter release. One trick is to use an air-bulb cable release: screw the release into your camera and pop the bulb in your mouth. Once you have the flashes positioned, a chomp on the bulb is all it takes. However, I found that the cable release was constantly getting tangled with my flash cords. Worse yet, the technique is not very sanitary — who knows where that bulb has been before you bought it? Now I prefer to use my camera's self- timer to trip the shutter. It gives me about ten seconds to pick up my flashes and get them in position, usually ample time. If you don't like having your hands full of flash units, there are a variety of brackets available which hold the flashes on pivoting arms, one on either side of your camera. If you caught the article on mushrooms in the November 1 983 issue of Geo magazine, you saw the photo of mushroom photographer Kit Scates using such a bracket. I have tried several different brackets and personally have found them to be uniformly awkward and impractical. Some of my most striking shots have been taken by positioning the flashes a fair distance from the camera (for instance, behind the subject); few brackets will allow this sort of flexibility. (I will confess, however, that brackets are super for those of us who get into places where flashes cannot be set down. Try photo- graphing singing frogs in the middle of a waist-deep pond and you'll agree.) There's no law that says you can't sucker a hiking companion into holding your flashes in position while you snap the pictures. This behavior can rapidly destroy friendships if abused, however. If you're fortunate enough to have another photographer as your trailmate, you can swipe his tripod for a few moments and mount one of your flashes on it. (One friend of mine regularly totes two tripods into the field for the purpose of positioning his flashes. Unless you own packhorses, I don't recommend this solution.) Another nifty way to support a flash is on the Bogen Magic Arm^, a pivoting, lockable arm that clamps to a tripod leg in seconds. I field-tested one last week and thought it was great; however, I think many people would find it too heavy for everyday page 6 2 use. (Bogen's address can be found in the first installment of this series.) ZLafiii Angle and Distance When framing a mushroom in the viewfinder, the fungus photographer must be able to envision how the flash light will fall upon the scene. One of the pleasant surprises of this business is that a flash sometimes imparts life and color to a fungus photo that wasn't initially obvious in natural light. On the other hand, poor flash positioning can easily ruin a potentially great shot. And of course, you don't know the picture has been bungled until the slides come back — by that time the mushroom has been eaten by fungus gnats and the oppor- tunity is lost forever. Some larger studio flashes actually have a built-in modelling light (basically an ordinary flashlight). This spotlight helps the photographer roughly judge where the flashes' light will fall. Modelling lights are a luxury and a bulky inconvenience in the field, however. Today's mushroom photographer must hedge his bets by positioning his flashes logically. Humans have a tendency to put the sun behind them when they view close-up subjects — this way one is looking at the best lit side of the critter and not squinting in the sunlight. Taking advantage of this human weakness, the most natural placement for the main flash is close to the line of sight, fairly close to the camera (say, within 12") and somewhat higher than the subject. I prefer to light most mushrooms somewhat from an angle — ■ that is, with the main flash positioned to the left or right of the camera — as opposed to head-on. Even after you throw in a second flash (described below) , parts of the mushroom will be delicately shadowed from the glancing main light. This shadowing appears very natural and adds dimension to the fungus. A second or "fill-in" flash can reveal details that the main flash can't "see," such as the gills. As noted elsewhere, it can also soften harsh shadows that the first flash creates. Finally, if strategically placed, the second flash can help illuminate the background while the main flash concentrates on the mushroom. To acheive these effects, the light beam from the second flash should be roughly perpendicular to the light from the main flash. So, if the main light is to the right of the mushroom, the second flash should be to the left. I prefer also to position the second flash at a somewhat lower angle than the main light. This helps to erase the shadow of the cap on the stem and gills caused by the higher main light. (Of course, this is not a problem in capless species like MutinusT CI av aria, etc; in these cases I often aim the light to assist more in background illumination by elevating it to the same height as the main light.) Although the remainder of this article has been written, space constraints force me to stop here. Unfortunately for you eager flash users, the most important information - determining flash- to- subject distance - is in the next installment. Cruel, I know - but nobody ever said that the nature photography business is all fun and games. So bite your tongue, hang by your thumbs and hold your breath until then. In the meantime, you might try to get your hands on a fantastic new nature photography volume by John Shaw, whom I've already cited two or three times. It's entitled The Nature Photographer's Complete Guide to Professional Fi eld Technique, available in softback for $16.95. Far and away it is the best illustrated and most informative nature photography book available right now. (Although he delves into telephoto stuff and other non- fungi topics, the practical info in John's text is superlative.) You'll have to special-order it from your favorite bookstore. It's selling out everywhere. page 63 TRIANGLE AREA MUSHROOM CLUB 1985 Membership Renewal/ Application Form Send form and dues to TAMC, P.O. Box 1 7 06 1 , Durham, NC 27705 by December 31. Make check payable to TAMC. DUES: / / $8.00 Individual / / $7.00 Corresponding / / $2.00 Associate (One Associate membership should be obtained for each additional participating family member.) / / $12.00 North American Mycological Association (individual or family) Send separate check payable to NAMA. Name(s): Home address: City: State: Zip: Home phone: Day phone: Mailing Address: (Please use campus address whenever possible so that we can save on TAMC mailing costs. NAMA publications will be sent to your home address unless you specify otherwise. ) over please Triangle Area Mushroom Club P.O. Box 17061 Durham, NC 27705 Please indicate if you can help in any of the following ways: / / do occasional errands or phoning / / provide host home for meetings / / or for out of town guests/speakers / / / / write newsletter article / / do newsletter sketches / / present a meeting program (slide show, talk, lab, etc.) / / supply refreshments at meetings occasionally / / lead a foray / / serve as an officer / / or on a committee / / / / other. Comments, suggestions: I hereby release the Triangle Area Mushroom Club and any officer or member there-of from any legal responsibility for injuries or accidents incurred during or as a result of any field trip, excursion, or meeting sponsored by the club. Applicant's signature: Date: Bate: