THE

GARDENER

A MAGAZINE

OF

HORTICULTURE AND FLORICULTURE

EDITED BY

DAVID THOMSON

DRUMLANRIG GARDENS

is?i

WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS

EDINBURGH AND LONDON

MDCCCLXXIX

IV1

^*

THE

GARDENER

JANUARY 1879.

OUR SUPPLY OF APPLES AND PEARS.

T is the opinion of some, that the production of Apples
and Pears in the United Kingdom has ceased to be
a matter of much importance, now that the Americans
can pour these fruits into our markets and shops
so speedily and in such enlarged quantities. Fruit is now sent
on to us some seven or eight thousand miles across the Rocky
Mountains, and three thousand miles by sea, in good quality and
condition, in a comparatively few days ; and that certainly may be
ranked among the facts that are stranger than ever fiction anticipa-
ted. Our French neighbours also cultivate these fruits to make up
the deficiency of our home produce. It is well that these sources
can be looked to for a supply of such wholesome fruits, which in the
case of Apples can be purchased at a rate that enables the frugal
peasant or artisan to enjoy the wholesome supplement of tarts and
puddings. The question, however, arises, Ought we to be so depen-
dent on foreign sources for a full supply of these fruits 1 This, like
every other question, has doubtless two sides to be looked at; but our
object at present is not to discuss it in the abstract. Our conviction
is, however, that our home production might be much more satisfactory
than it at present is, even in spite of many adverse circumstances.

Some writers have assumed and tried to prove that the climate of
this country has changed so much for the worse that Apple crops
are not now what they formerly were. This we believe to be an
assumption that has no foundation either in statistics or anything
else, and is repudiated by the recognised fact that drainage and high
cultivation have had rather a beneficial influence on our climate. Be

2 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

that as it may, we have no more doubt that many districts in the
United Kingdom could be made much more productive of these
fruits without entrenching on lands remunerative in other ways, than
we have of our own existence. The question may be asked, By what
means'? Of course, to begin with, by planting more trees. This may
be met with the assertion that there never were so many trees raised
and planted as there are in these times — a statement that may be
true. But is it not near the truth that much of the planting might
as well be left undone, and many of the trees might just as well be
burned, for any share they have in increasing the supply of fruit1?

AVe must of course endeavour to give a reason for this last assump-
tion, as it may be termed. In the first place, we have never yet had
to do with Apple and Pear trees in any district, without having the
fact that the supply of fruits in five years out of six has been borne by
a comparatively few sorts very forcibly illustrated. This observation
is not by any means singular to any cultivator ; and we believe if it
were more carefully considered, and only those productive varieties
planted all but exclusively, the bulk of fruit produced in a very great
number of localities would be increased fiftyfold. As an instance
of this fact, we now practise in one of the very worst spots that
could be chosen for hardy-fruit culture — i.e., a low damp valley close
to a river, with a heavy soil on a clayey subsoil, and an average rain-
fall of fifty inches, and where spring frosts are very prevalent. Yet
only twice in ten years has the yield of Apples not been sufficient
for the supply of one of the largest establishments for three months,
and from comparatively few trees — under what we consider adverse
circumstances — in the vegetable-garden alone. We are now so well
acquainted with the few varieties and trees that are productive, that
we could venture to point out those that are likely to be fruitful
the following season ; and the varieties could be more than counted
on our fingers. If every tree in the gardens were of these varieties,
there would be supply enough for eight or nine months of the year.
The blossom produced by other varieties is most encouraging, but
their crop is almost always nil. Is it therefore not reasonable to
expect, that if those varieties that bear thus were largely planted in
this and similar districts, the produce would be much increased with
the self-same labour in culture ? The same rule we have noticed to
apply more or less to other districts. The indiscriminate planting of
varieties not suited to localities has been found out by market-growers
to be a great mistake, and they are now acting on the principle of
selection.

Another practice, and, considering its results, one that has been
adhered to with an amount of tenacity that is remarkable, is that of

1879.] OUR SUPPLY OF APPLES AND PEARS. 3

planting Apples and Pears by the sides of walks, in what are termed
cross-borders, in kitchen-gardens, and even dotting them about in
vegetable quarters — the spaces of ground between trees in these
positions being frequently occupied with biennial and other flowering
plants, and sometimes with Strawberries and vegetable crops. These
borders, if devoted to flowers, are rarely properly manured, and are
deeply worked with a spade annually among the plants, and close up
to, if not over, the roots of the trees. If devoted to vegetables, they
are, on the other hand, heavily manured with ordinary dung, deeply
dug into the soil. To escape mutilation, the roots of the trees, with
a sort of self-preserving instinct, proceed to find peace and comfort
in too often an unsuitable and canker-breeding subsoil. In the one
case the roots are starved, and in the other too grossly fed; and the
respective results are stunted growth and poverty-stricken produce in
the one case, and in the other too gross a growth of unfruitful wood,
to be annually and ruthlessly cut away with the pruning-knife. Of
these two evils it would be difficult to say which is the worst or most
unreasonable.

Trees in such positions as the one named must of necessity be kept
in very restricted limits as to size, or injury to the things among which
they are planted would be greater than it really is ; and even with all
the restriction practised, the one crop is most injurious to the other.
To make matters bearable, the pinching and pruning are carried to
an injurious excess every year, leaving as many knife-wounds as
make it a wonder that decrepitude, canker, and decay are not more
fatal than they are. The pruning of such trees, after the fashion of
the present day, is an evil ; and it is to be feared that in not a few
cases it is resorted to to permit of the other evil of making room for
growing every conceivable variety in a given space. Root-pruning
every two or three years is perhaps the more reasonable course to
pursue ; but if trees are to be grown with a vigour capable of bearing
a full crop of decent fruit, it is a process that can only be carried to a
certain extent, and that not sufficient to do away, under the circum-
stances, with the murderous pruning which leaves trees more con-
spicuous for their number of knife-wounds than for anything else.

This miniature-tree system, mixed up with other crops, is, generally
speaking, not satisfactory. It is a sore evil to other kitchen-garden
crops, and leads to so much cutting and restriction, that it never will
admit of a satisfactory supply of fruit, even if the selection of sorts be
ever so suited to the locality. In so important a horticultural matter
as this, it is strange that we adhere so tenaciously to the mixing of
fruits with other crops : and the evil is most flagrant in what are
termed the best of gardens ; and hence the faithfulness with which it

4 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

has been copied. For those with only one small piece of ground,
there is some excuse if they desire a few varieties. But even in
their case their trees would do better located by themselves.

There is no serious reason that we know of why there is so much
of this mixing up of standard fruit-trees with kitchen-garden produce,
instead of putting them by themselves, where they and the ground
can be much more specially treated in accordance with their want?.
By doing so, many telling advantages are gained for both depart-
ments. The evils of digging heavy dressings of rank manure, and of
digging among the roots of the trees, find no excuse, and can be en-
tirely avoided. Xeither need the trees be starved or injured by being
improperly fed when they want extra nourishment. ISTo spade or
fork should be thrust among the roots of trees to dig in manure and
mutilate the roots. A firm surface, subject to no more tillage than is
necessary for a clean surface, having the necessary manure spread on
its surface, inducing the roots to keep near it and be fed with the
beneficial elements of, instead of coming in contact with, the manure —
this way of managing the soil produces a more moderate growth, and
altogether that state of health without grossness which is so desirable.

Then the trees, to be worth the name, can have room and liberty
to develop without injury to other crops and with benefit to them-
selves. The pruning is reduced to a minimum sufficient to admit
of light and air to the various parts of each tree, instead of the
stag's-horn style of pruning off almost every inch of wood made
annually. The compromise between nature and art mutually working
to each other's hands results in the building up of trees that fre-
quently do more to fill fruit-rooms with fine fruit than when they
are managed on the other principle which we are contrasting.

Besides, trees in an orchard give an amount of shelter to each
other that is an important factor in securing comparative safety from
the blighting influence of winds, which do so much damage to the
blossom. By observing the3e few cardinal points more generally —
the proper selection of sorts, the orchard system of planting, natural
root-culture, and less pruning — much more and better fruit would be
produced in a great many districts. The culture would be simplified
and the labour lessened. On the other hand, the vegetable-garden
would also profit by such an arrangement to no inconsiderable extent.
This, coupled with the planting of many a nook of ground now not
much better than waste, would very much increase our home supplies,
as compared to what is grown in gardens, making us more indepen-
dent of foreign supplies of at least the commonest, though not the
least useful, of these fruits, which it is desirable to make still more
plentiful, cheap, and popular among our toiling millions.

1879.] HARDY FRUITS.

HAEDY FRUITS.

The importance of cultivating these under a recognised system to give
the best results is not at all so general and successful as might be
expected. From the amount of information scattered broadcast by
every garden periodical and standard work on pomology, one would
almost suppose that any advice on the matter is wellnigh superfluous.
But there are so many villa-gardeners, young amateurs, and others
continually entering into the list of cultivators, that there is a
continuous demand for "simple guides and instructors," so that no
apology need be offered for devoting a paper entirely to this inter-
esting subject. We say " simple guides " — any others are useless, and
disregarded by the most of readers. To give the most information
in fewest words is why the advanced writers on horticulture are
accepted as real teachers ; and all who aim at eloquence and profound
language when teaching horticulture defeat the object entirely which
they have in view. We know as a fact that much of the very long
letters on horticultural subjects is passed over and remains unread
by those who are thirsting for knowledge, time being too precious to
wade through words.

Some of the evils most generally met with in fruit-gardens and
orchards are crowding of the branches, allowing the trees to grow
away at first into gross spongy wood — all pith, which does not ripen
and cannot bear fruit — badly drained land, woods belted closely
round the trees, so that they get very little fresh air, and roots getting
away from the surface -soil into a cold and barren subsoil, when
canker takes place, and probably death. Where soil is very suitable
for most kinds of fruit, as in this county (Worcester) and two or three
others, the attention given, except in comparatively few cases, to
high-class cultivation is rare, the soil and climate accomplishing so
much without the aid of cultural skill • but when the practice is of a
scientific character, as may be seen in a high sense at Rev. Canon
Lea's orchards at Droitwich, where every system of culture except
on walls is represented, the crops are invariably heavy and the
trees healthy, especially Plums, Apples, and Pears. Crowding
must be prevented by pruning out the branches and lifting the
trees, in their younger stages, out of the soil, and transplanting them
afresh. Cutting the roots off indiscriminately, often with a spade, is
barbarous work. Where they are long, naked, and grown far from
the space allotted for them, the knife may be carefully applied at lift-
ing time (when the growth of wood is nearly finished and the leaves
about to fall). A tree of bush form should be opened out in the centre
to allow light and air to have full power in ripening the fruit-buds,

6 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

which are, of course, prepared the previous season. Badly -drained
land, especially if in a low and flat position, must have main drains
and cross ones leading to them, and the whole taken with a fall
beyond the orchard or garden to some distance. If air or light is
kept from the trees by plantations or other means, it is useless to
attempt to do justice to both — though trees as "break-winds," at
a proper distance from an orchard or garden, are advantageous. Barren
subsoil can be kept in its place and the roots out of it by a proper
system of lifting and mulching. Tap-roots are evils which should not
be allowed to exist. Timely attention to young trees by lifting them,
or concreting the holes at planting time, will save disappointment, by
giving fibres instead of huge thongs of roots which draw up a super-
fluous amount of water. Mulching of trees with good manure attracts
the roots upwards, where they can have the benefit of sun and healthy
soil. Planting of the trees is a very important operation, the best
season being October and November ; but trees are often seen in good
health and bearing plenty of fruit which have been planted at all times
between September and May. We have lifted and transplanted trees
with roots in a mass of fibre with success during the dog-days ; but such
cannot be a general practice. At the present season, if planting is to be
done, we would say, wait till near the time of the sap flowing, when the
buds begin to swell ; the roots then push into new soil, and little check
is sustained. Meanwhile the trees should be chosen in the nursery
grounds ; and if weather is dry and suitable, the ground may be
prepared for the trees. We have planted a new garden and orchard of
goodly size within three years (besides a number of small new ones),
and during this season a good old garden and orchard has been
renovated, and planted with choice collections of fruit-trees. The
two places are very differently situated — one on the west coast of
Wales (the old place), and the new one in a beautiful part of
Worcestershire. The Welsh place is low and flat, only a few feet
above the level of the sea, the soil light and gritty. The gardens
and orchard are enclosed with dense woods, and no doubt have been
ruined for want of fresh air. The new garden is high and dry,
fairly sheltered, and soil of the most tenacious description. The
system of preparation for planting as a necessity is widely different.
Trenching in the first place is necessary for both situations — two
spades deep, and the bottoms turned over roughly. The holes are
made a good width (the roots being spread out as far as they would
go), a quantity of brick and lime rubbish was worked into the bot-
toms of the holes, and a quantity of fresh loam added to each hole.
In the old place the trees are planted high above the surrounding
flat and low ground, well mulched, and the surface above the roots

1879.] ECONOMICAL KITCHEN-GARDENING. 7

left rather flat. In the new place the ground was not raised at all
(except slightly for the wall-trees) ; and though many of the trees
were planted so late as May (all the wall-trees at end of April),
and they have been all lifted or half lifted, the most of
them bore a useful crop last season. Some of the kinds were very
heavy after being thinned. Preparation for the trees has special
advantages when done suitable to soil and locality. In these two
places two opposite courses had to be pursued, the one lot of trees
being in danger of suffering from drought, and the others in danger
of being destroyed by wet — the rainfall being great, as well as the
position being low and flat. The same preparation holds good for all
kinds of bush-fruits, as well as for larger trees ; and whatever is
done let it be well done, as lost labour and disappointment too often
follow hasty preparations. In choosing kinds, have the best ; but
localities have their favourites, and experience has always prompted
me to get a good proportion of free-bearing hardy fruits, even
if their quality were not the best. As examples, we have planted
dozens of Stirling Castle, King of Pippins, Lord Sufheld, and Blen-
heim Orange Apples ; a large number of Louise Bonne of Jersey,
Beurre Diel, Marie Louise, and similar proportions of late-keeping
Pears ; lots of Victoria, Pershore Egg, Kirke's, and other hardy
Plums. These are expected to be loaded every year, while many of
the best kinds are uncertain. Rasps require a deep, heavily-manured
soil, in a cool position. Pruning still undone may be left till the
days are longer. M. T.

ECONOMICAL KIT CHEN -GARDENING,

Any one having the operation of an extensive market-garden daily
under his eye, where vegetables are grown for profit, and may be ex-
ported, and who may be familiar with the routine of kitchen-gardening
as performed in the gardens of the nobility and gentry, cannot fail to
be struck with the contrast between the systems of management pur-
sued in the two instances, not to mention the great advantage the
former mode enjoys over the other in quality, and especially in
quantity of produce. One is inclined to inquire, sometimes, whether
the much vaunted spade-husbanclry has so much to recommend it,
especially in the raising and maturing of green crops, such as garden-
vegetables which occupy the ground the shortest possible time — a
few months — swept away and replaced. It does seem certain that, if
a soil has been once thoroughly drained and subsoiled, very deep
cultivation is unnecessary afterwards, provided that the top 6 inches

8 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

is kept tolerably fertilised with farmyard manure. The plough and
harrow seem all that is necessary to cultivate the soil sufficiently for
the produce of first-rate vegetables of all the annual varieties, such as
Peas, Cabbages, Turnips, Beet, Spinach, Onions, Lettuces, &c. And
as to the question of expense as compared with garden-culture, field-
culture, with its comparatively superior return, is at least performed
at one-half the outlay. The conclusion we wish to draw is one which
has been advocated before in these pages, if our memory serves us
right, and that is, the abandonment of kitchen-gardening in walled-in
enclosures, interrupted and mixed up with small fruit growing and
fruit-trees, and migrating to some open field of good aspect, and
sheltered by plantations or hedges, where the half pleasure-ground
character of the kitchen-garden would be abandoned, and only two
objects kept in view : first, the raising of the best possible vegetables ;
and second, keeping the ground entirely free of weeds, eschewing
Box edgings, gravel walks, shears, rollers, and iron rakes, as well as
brick walls.

There was once a period in the history of our country, and a long
one, when the kitchen-garden was the orchard and flower-garden and
pleasure-ground ; indeed, the representative of all that is now meant
by the gardens of a country residence. The Abbeys and Priories of
olden times often had their orchard under their windows, like the
farmer of the present day. The residence of the Russian landowner
and gentleman, of one storey, thatched and of irregular shape, is sur-
rounded by large kitchen-gardens, his ideas being only now on a level
with ours of 200 years ago, so far as horticulture is concerned. Of
course we do not speak of the palaces of the "Woronzows or Xessel-
rodes or GortschakofTs. Nowadays in the country our idea of
beautiful gardens does not embrace brick walls or half acres of Cab-
bages ; but green lawns, and walks of gentle curvature bright and
smooth, and shrubberies, and specimens of the trees of many climes
— of the empire, in fact ; of China and Japan, and the far west land
facing the North Pacific, and maybe from the mountains, the tops of
which our soldiers are now espying far away in the horizon, capped
with snow, beyond the Khyber. We like to keep our kitchen-garden-
ing out of sight of our drawing-room windows, as we would our
turnip-fields, and there really is some other reason why we should do
so besides the one of taste.

The kitchen-garden not now engaging its former place as a part of
the pleasure-grounds, is in consequence often much neglected, and the
labour drawn away to the pleasure-ground proper; the vegetable crops
are, therefore, not so good as they might be, and the kitchen-garden
untidy besides, as now arranged with rows of fruit-trees, obstructing

1879.] ECONOMICAL KITCHEN-GARDENING. 9

operations, and overhanging crops, Box edgings to be clipped and
mended and kept clean, gravel -walks to be kept smooth, half the
labour is absorbed in unproductive work ; and, moreover, the neces-
sary quantities of manure are deposited on the soil, and subsoils re-
moved under much difficulty and really excessive labour. Another
good reason why field-gardening should be substituted for vegetables
is, that hardy fruits of all sorts would be much better grown entirely
separate from the vegetable crops. The digging among fruit-trees for
vegetable crops destroys the fibrous-feeding roots, which ought to
be encouraged and top-dressed ; it is a very general practice to utilise
the space among and under fruit-trees for vegetables, but it is certain
that no vegetables worth the name can be grown under the branches
or over the roots of standard fruit-trees.

We have recently inspected several private gardens, where the
kitchen-garden was simply a field, the ground laid out in long
parallel spaces of about 10 yards wide, with a pathway between,
wide enough to admit of a cart passing, made of cinders, but
with no attempt at edgings of any sort — the spaces devoted to Sea-
kale, Asparagus, Ehubarb, Herbs, Horse-radish, and all perennial
things being by themselves, the rest of the ground being cultivated
by the plough, and none but the cheapest labour employed — that is,
common labourers under the head gardener. The country cottagers'
shows vouches for their capacity ; and we are bound to say that a
sturdy high quality of vegetables were produced different from the
produce grown among trees and drawn up by over shelter.

On this matter of shelter we are inclined to the suspicion that,
after all, brick walls are not so good as hedges; that even walls
are not enough without, again, a certain amount of shelter from trees.
There is shelter behind a wall if the wind blows perpendicular to
it ; but if it blows at an angle, it rushes along the face of the wall
and the border fronting it with increased and cutting force, conse-
quently it is frequently found necessary to plant short cross hedges
to impede the force of the wind, and woe betide the vegetables which
happen to be in a corner when the wind blows — inside and outside
a corner there is always an eddy. The hedge has the effect, on the
contrary, of both breaking the force of the wind and of filtering
it, though thus obviating the parallel rush as experienced in front
of a wall. We happen to be acquainted with a kitchen -garden
of about 400 yards in length, by about 10 in width, which is
peculiarly situated, and at first sight might be pronounced to have
the most favourable advantages as to shelter. The position is no
other than the bottom of the ditch which surrounds a fort. The
ditch may be 30 feet deep, with a high wall on the one side and a

10 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

steep bank of earth on the other; there are various angles and straight^
lines, in the manner of a star. Now down there the vegetables might
be expected to grow in perfect tranquillity from all the winds which
blow, but it is not so ; the place seems haunted with eddies and cut-
ting currents at all times, and the vegetables have a poor time of it,
to the great mystification of the gallant commandant who draws on
our supposed wisdom. This is, however, the sort of shelter we be-
lieve that garden-walls give, but in an aggravated form — indeed no
shelter at all, unless complemented by surrounding hedges and planta-
tions : and the question is whether garden-walls in these days might
not be entirely dispensed with so far as shelter is concerned ; and
certainly from an economical point of view, and as objects of taste,
they are entirely unnecessary so far as vegetables are concerned ; and
they are fast losing their prestige in the culture of fruits. But let
the existing walled garden be devoted to fruit-trees, which of them-
selves break the force of the wind, and in those days of high-priced
labour and refined gardening, let the kitchen be supplied from the
field, where the necessary skill to secure good vegetables is only of
the field standard. The Squire's Gardener.

LAPAGEEIAS.
ALBA AND ROSEA.

These magnificent evergreen climbing plants are indispensable in the
greenhouse and conservatory ; trained up the walls and rafters, they
have a grand effect, and cannot be too highly praised.

The beautiful, waxy, pure-white flowers of the former, and the deli-
cate rose-coloured flowers of the latter, afford a rich and pleasing con-
trast when grown adjacent to each other, and, backed up with luxuriant
dark-green foliage, have a most noble appearance, and are universally
admired. Both varieties can be increased, though slowly, by cuttings
put in any time from October to December, choosing well-ripened wood
that has not flowered for the purpose. Cut the shoots into cuttings with
four to five eyes on each — two to be inserted in the soil, and two or three
above, with leaves attached, using small, 4-inch pots. Drain them well,
and fill them with a compost consisting of equal parts light loam and
peat, with a good sprinkling of sand and powdered charcoal. Insert the
cuttings firmly all round the edge of the pot ; water them with a fine
rose, and place them in a cool, moist pit, in a shady position. They
can also be propagated by layers, when the plants are at rest ; and if
the plants to be operated on are planted out, the shoots should be laid
in the border in soil prepared for them, the same as for cuttings, mak-
ing a neat, clean cut up the centre of the growth, and pegging them
into the soil the same as Carnations. If pot specimens are to be

1879.] LAPAGERIAS. 11

increased, use 5- or 6-inch pots to lay the shoots in, and let them stand
on the stage round the stool, or on inverted pots, so that they may be
in a proper position, and easily got at for watering ; for after they
begin to make roots, which will not be till well on in the following
season, they must be looked over daily. As soon as they are well
rooted and commencing to grow the second season, pot them off singly
— using pots in proportion to the size of the plants — in the same soil
as recommended for striking them in, and always let the young shoots
have a small stake or piece of string adjusted for them to twine
up. As the plants grow on into size, shift them into larger pots ;
those of a deep make being preferable, as the roots always incline
to go downwards ; using the soil in a rougher state, such as turfy
loam and peat, with some lumps of sandstone and charcoal, and
a few quarter-inch bones intermixed ; always minding to drain the
pots well, and give them an abundant supply of water at the roots
when making their growth. If they are intended for exhibition pur-
poses, they must be trained on a balloon or other trellis, but allowed to
run freely wmen making their growth, and tied down at the end of the
season before coming into flower. They also do well planted out, and
trained on the back-wall or rafters of the greenhouse and conservatory ;
but in such cases the border must be made up for them. In doing
so dig out the natural soil 3 or 4 feet deep, and as much or more all
round as can be found convenient, to afford plenty of space for the
roots to run freely ; but, as already stated, they incline mostly to strike
downwards — hence the border should be of a good depth. To insure
perfect drainage, a layer of broken bricks should be laid in the bottom,
over which place another layer of broken pots, &c, and then some of
the roughest of the soil, which should be prepared by mixing equal
parts turfy loam and peat, a good addition of charcoal and quarter-inch
bones, and some lumps of white sandstone; and if the loam is very
heavy, a small portion of bruised sandstone should be added. Having
the border made up with this compost, and the plant to be put in well
established in an 8- or 9-inch pot, it will be safer to wait until growth
is fairly commenced before planting out ; and in doing so, carefully
relieve any of the roots that may have been twining round the sides of
the pot, and clear away all the crocks from the bottom of the ball,
planting deep enough to cover the whole of the ball, and then cover
the surface with fine gravel. After planting give a good soaking of
tepid water to settle the soil about the roots, and regulate and tie
out the shoots to the wires with small slips of matting, taking care
not to break their points. The plants must also have attention
during summer, so as to keep every shoot in position, as they are apt
to get twisted together when growing, and are not easily separated
without damaging the foliage. A slight touch with the syringe on
fine afternoons will also prove of great advantage in keeping the
foliage free from dust, vermin, &c. ; and a wTeak solution of soft soap

12 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

and water applied with the syringe over the foliage once a-week will
also help to ward off green-fly, &c, which are sometimes troublesome
when the growths are young and in a succulent state, and when it
would be dangerous to apply the fumigator, as we have invariably
found that the tobacco-smoke kills the young shoots, making them
quite black and shrivelled before the fly seems to suffer. All plants,
either in pots or planted out, must have an abundant supply of water
at their roots during the growing season, not given in dribblets, but a
thorough soaking at a time ; and weak liquid-manure occasionally will
be found very beneficial up to the time the plants have finished flower-
ing. They are also the better of a little shade in hot, sunny weather,
until they stop growing, when they should be fully exposed to light
and air, so as to thoroughly ripen the wood, on which depends a great
deal the quantity and quality of the flowers. After the plants are done
flowering they should be kept very cool, and have less water at the
roots, but be by no means allowed to become too dry, as they will in
that case suffer. Dundonian.

[Along with this we received a bunch of blooms, which are wonderful for
size and substance. — Ed.]

DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE-PLANTS.

THE AZALEA.

The rage or fashion for fine-foliage plants, chiefly denizens of the
plant-stove, which has existed for a number of years, has been the
means of causing a great many of our finest greenhouse-plants, and
particularly the hard-wooded section of them, to be elbowed almost
out of cultivation. This state of matters may have arisen partly
from the fact that what are generally termed "foliage-plants," whe-
ther of stove or greenhouse, are much easier of cultivation than the
section of hard-wooded flowering-plants, and partly from the fact that
the culture of foliage-plant3 has received an almost undue amount of
prominence and encouragement from our horticultural societies, to
the all but total exclusion of the greater proportion of greenhouse-
plants proper. Excepting such things as Azaleas and Heaths, it is
very rarely that we see a well-grown specimen greenhouse-plant on
our exhibition tables; while stove-plants, such as Crotons, Dracamas,
Palms, &c, are shown in numbers and varieties almost bewildering,
a great many of the new varieties, indeed, being very slightly, if at
all, different from many of the older varieties. And the cry is, " Still
they come ! " Undoubtedly such plants are better adapted for house
and table decoration than the general run of greenhouse-plants, and
are available for this purpose at all seasons, whereas the others are
not ; and while the fashion for such decorations continue, foliage-

1879.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE-PLANTS. 13

plants will be largely grown for the purpose. Though I am particu-
larly fond of the stove and its occupants, and would not like to part
with them, still I think it a pity that greenhouse-plants should also
not receive a larger share of attention than usually falls to their lot in
the majority of places. If some of our leading horticultural societies
would inaugurate the giving of prizes for this class of plants, no
doubt plenty of cultivators would be ready to take them in hand.

In the following remarks, which are meant chiefly for young
gardeners, it is intended to give just a few hints on the propagation
and cultivation of some of the principal and most useful varieties of
decorative greenhouse-plants. And first we may take the Azalea, as
being one of the most useful as well as most highly decorative plants
of the sectioD. The Azalea is imported in such quantities from the
Continent, grafted either as dwarfs or as standards, and is sold at
such a very reasonable price by our nurserymen, that, unless by way
of practice, it hardly pays to propagate them in private establish-
ments. Should any wish to try their hand at it, however, one of the
strong-growing common varieties, such as Fielder's White, should be
selected from which to raise cuttings, as stocks on which to work the
finer varieties. The cuttings may be rooted in a mixture of peat and
sharp silver sand — 1 part of the former to 2 parts of the latter ; and
they may either be pricked into a propagating-box where a brisk bot-
tom-heat is maintained, or they may be put in a pot covered with a
bell-glass, and plunged in a hotbed. As soon as they are rooted
pot them up singly in small pots, still using peat and silver sand,
and replunge them in the bed for a time, till they take with the
potting, after which they may be transferred to a warm house,
and encouraged to make good healthy growths, and be well
ripened, after which they may be kept cooler during the winter.
Before grafting, the stocks had better be put into heat for a
short time, so as to excite the sap into active circulation ; and
when ready, head them over at the height you wish to graft ;
split the stock down half an inch or so with a sharp knife, and
insert the scion, wedge-like, tie them well together, and cover
with grafting-wax, and replace them into the propagating-box or hot-
bed ; keep them close and warm until the union be complete, after
which they must be gradually inured to the light and air. Pinch the
points out of the young shoots occasionally, so as to induce them to
form good heads.

When ready for shifting into larger pots, the proportion of good
fibry peat should be increased, and a few small pieces of charcoal
may be added with advantage. Earn the soil hard about them at all
future pottings ; and for small plants the soil may be rubbed down

14 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

pretty fine ; but for larger plants — say from those in 8-inch pots and
upwards — the soil should be rather lumpy, being merely broken to
pieces with the hands ; and if good fibry loam is to be had, a little
may be added, though it is not necessary. When they have done
flowering they should be placed in a house with a temperature of
about 60° at night, till they make their growth, giving them a dew-
ing night and morning with the syringe. When growth is made
they should be gradually hardened off ; and about the end of July
they may be set out of doors, standing on a bed of ashes to keep
out the worms. Stand them in a sheltered place, but exposed to the
sun, so as to get the wood thoroughly ripened and buds formed.
They may be again taken under cover early in October, placing them
in a cool house. If they are wanted to bloom early, a few of those
having the most prominent buds may be placed in a gentle heat, and
gradually pushed forward — not too hard, however, at first. Other
batches of them may be introduced in the same way at intervals, in
order to keep up a succession of bloom : while those intended for
late flowering should be kept as cool as possible — a few degrees of
frost even will not do them any injury. With judicious management
as to forcing and retarding, a supply of bloom may be had the greater
part of the year.

The great pest of Azaleas is thrips. This must be diligently looked
after, and fumigated on the first symptoms of it appearing, repeating
the operation two or three times, else they soon spoil the appearance
of the plant, besides doing a great deal of injury. I habitually give
them a syringing every few weeks during the growing season and
while they are at rest, with soft-soap dissolved in warm water — a piece
of soap about the size of a hen's egg to a large watering-potful of
water. We lay the plants on their side, and dash it well into them ;
and then in a few hours we syringe them in the same way with clear
water. Besides keeping them clear of thrips, this also keeps the
foliage clean and healthy. There are so many varieties of Azaleas in
cultivation, and so many of them are good, that it is difficult to give
a list of what all would consider the best. I may just enumerate a
few of them, however, that are really good and will generally give
satisfaction, merely giving the names, as colours can be found by
consulting any catalogue.

Baronne de Yriere, Beaute Supreme, Dr David Moore, Due
d'Aremberg, Due de Nassau, Duke of Devonshire, John Gould
Veitch, Le Flambeau, Queen of the Whites, Queen Victoria, Roi des
Beiges, Roi des Blanches, Stella, Souvenir du Prince Albert, William
Bull, Princess Mary of Cambridge, Todmanii, Alice, Elag of Truce,
and Model. J. G. W.

1879.] ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS. 15

ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS.

TILIA (THE LIME-TREE.)

The genus Tilia is composed of a limited number of umbrageous,
deciduous trees, of stately growth, indigenous to the temperate and
colder regions of Europe and North. America. They are all very
hardy, and of free growth in most districts of Britain ; and though
seldom if ever planted merely for their timber, they have long been
extensively introduced into our parks and other ornamental planta-
tions, where, whether standing singly, grouped, or associated with
other trees, they impart a richness and beauty to the landscape
peculiarly their own. They are, moreover, invaluable for town gardens
and street avenues, where, notwithstanding the dust and smoke, they
succeed better than most other large-growing trees.

The wood of the Lime-trees, though lacking the strength and
durability necessary for general purposes, is nevertheless utilised in
the countries where it abounds for fancy-work, such as cabinet-
making and carving, as it stands well when not exposed to the
weather, is easily wrought, and is susceptible of a fine polish. The
inner bark of all the species is strong and much used in the manu-
facture of mats, baskets, and other useful articles.

T. Europsea (the common Lime or Linden-tree). — This, the best
known of the species, is found naturally in several of the countries
of the Continent, and if not also indigenous to Britain, has been
so long in cultivation that it would be difficult to assign a date for
its introduction. It is a broad, thickly-branched tree of from 80 to
100 feet in height. The leaves, with which the branches are amply
clothed, are of a cordate form, sharp-pointed, serrated, smooth, and
of a pleasing light-green colour, assuming as they decay a yellowish-
brown tint, a feature very much admired in autumn.

The flowers, which expand in July and August, are produced in
cymes or umbels ; they are individually small, light -yellow, and
form no very important feature of the plant. So far as regards ap-
pearance, they are, however, deliciously fragrant, specially " at dewy
eve, distilling odours ; " and as they abound in honey they supply
admirable pasturage for bees. The wood of this tree is soft, light,
but close-grained, not liable to be attacked by insects, nor, when
properly seasoned, to warp. It is much used by turners and carvers,
and by manufacturers of toys. Its charcoal is of the finest quality for
making gunpowder. From the inner bark is obtained the material
for making bast-mats, of so much value to gardeners for packing,
covering, and tying up plants, and which are annually imported in
great numbers from St Petersburg, Archangel, and Riga. The trees

16 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

from which this is obtained are from 10 to 20 years old, cut down
and stripped in summer when full of sap.

Of this grand and very familiar ornamental tree, it is unnecessary
to say more by way of recommendation than that it should never be
omitted in the laying out of parks and other pleasure-grounds in the
neighbourhood of country mansions. It grows freely in almost every
variety of soil, preferring, however, such as are rich and deep ; and
though very hardy, and capable of enduring any amount of frost it
is likely to be subjected to in this country, the finest specimens
are always found where they are in situations sheltered from the
full force of the blast.

From a number of distinct and handsome species, we select the
following as most worthy of notice : —

Var. platyphylla, sometimes called grandifolia, is a distinct and
very desirable variety, with larger leaves than the species ; they are
slightly downy on the under surface.

Yar. lacinata. — This form has its leaves curiously cut and twisted;
it is of slow growth, and is usually grown as a standard grafted on
the species. It makes a neat lawn tree.

Yar. sanguinea. — Well known as the Red-twigged lime. The
young branches have a fine effect in winter when destitute of
leaves.

Yar. pendula. — A form differing from the species in its drooping
habit ; grafted on a stem of the common sort it forms a fine weeping
specimen well adapted for prominent sites on the lawn or large
shrubbery border.

T. Alba (the white-leaved or Hungarian Lime). — Some writers
have doubted the propriety of ranking this tree as a distinct species
regarding it as a variety only of Europaea. It is, however, so distinct
and constant, that we think it best to adhere to the original and still
most popular arrangement. It is indigenous to Hungary, where it is
said to occur somewhat sparingly, and from whence it was intro-
duced to this country in 1767. It forms a broad, bushy tree of
from 30 to 50 feet in height, the branches well furnished with
cordate leaves, unequal at the base, sharply serrated, smooth green
above, and downy beneath, dying off light -brown. The flowers,
which appear in July, are yellowish - white, small, and very fra-
grant. In its native country the timber and bark of this species
are used for similar purposes to that of the common Lime. It is
here much esteemed by planters of decorative trees not only for
its hardiness, its free growth, and symmetrical outline, but for
the beauty of its leaves, which, when stirred by the breeze, reveal
their silvery under surfaces, producing the happiest effect.

1879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 17

Var. pendula. — This sort differs only from the species in its
drooping branches ; grafted on 6-feet stems of the Common Lime, it
makes an admirable specimen for a lawn.

T. Americana (the American Lime). — This species has a wide
distribution in Canada and the United States, where it attains
heights of from 70 to 80 feet. It was first sent to this country in
1752. The leaves are cordate, sharply serrated, larger than the
European species, and of a smooth, shiny, bright -green colour,
changing as they decay to a light brown. The flowers are similar
in form and colour to those of the other sorts, appearing in July,
and very fragrant. Though similar in general appearance to the
Common Lime, it is easily distinguished by its bark, which, instead
of being either green or red, is dark-brown. It is a very hardy,
handsome tree, of a symmetrical habit of growth, and well worthy
of a place as a single specimen in a park. It should be planted
in deep rich soil, and in a moderately sheltered situation.

Hugh Ekaser.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

The Rev. George Henslow has succeeded in convincing the scientific mind
by an elaborate series of experiments that plants do absorb moisture by their
leaves ; and it is now acknowledged that the belief entertained by gardeners for
long enough that they could feed their plants, to some extent, through their
leaves, is based upon sound principles. It is perhaps not worth while inquiring
how gardeners became possessed of the notion that leaves absorb moisture — a
question which " has been a subject of controversy " among botanists for 150
years ; but we think there is little doubt that, like Boussingault, they have
some time or other been " fortunate in proving that plants in nature, wilted
by intense heat and drought, recovered on exposure to dew and rain, but with-
out the water reaching the roots," and hence concluded that they might copy
nature in their garden practice. It must be amusing to a gardener to read —
in the face of the fact so familiar to him, that detached leaves or bits of leaves
revive, after being allowed to droop, when moistened with water — that "along
series of cut leaves and shoots were gathered at 4 p.m. one day last September,"
by Mr Henslow, " then exposed to sun and wind for three hours, then carefully
weighed and exposed all night to dew. At 7,30 a.m., after having been dried,
they were weighed again, and all had gained weight, and quite recovered their
freshness, proving that slightly wetted detached portions do absorb dew."

Twenty years ago we knew a noted Pelargonium grower who was in the habit
of regularly syringing his plants overhead with weak soot and guano-water, in
the conviction that they "took it in," as he expressed it. "But, James,"
said a neighbour to him one day, "you know scientific authorities say that
plants do not absorb moisture by their leaves." "I ken that fine," said
Jamie, "but I dinna beleev't." It will gratify gardeners of James's per-
suasion now to know that after one hundred and fifty years' controversy and
experiment, scientific authorities have pronounced in their favour.

B

18 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

According to the ' Gardener's Monthly' (America), the Rhododendron occi-
dental is one of the graudest flowers ever seen. It is a native of California
(and consequently hardy in this country), where it grows along the streams
of crystal water in thickly wooded districts throughout the state. The finest
examples are found in the Sierra Nevada around the silver creeks, where they
are covered with snow for four months in the year. Rhododendron occiden-
tal is a shrub growing 3 to 6 feet high, with large and handsome shining
green foliage that makes a most charming setting for the large and conspicuous
flowers, which are from 213 to 3 inches long. The corolla is usually snow-
white, with the upper lobe yellow inside, but varieties are sometimes found
with rosy-tinted flowers. The flowers are borne in large clusters of from 10 to
20 each, and the writer in your American contemporary thinks it will be found
the best flower which California has yet supplied, as well as one of the hardiest,
as it grows where the snow lies on the ground four or five months in the year,
and yet where the sun in summer will send the thermometer over 130°.

One would hardly expect to find the largest and most prolific Pear-tree in
Great Britain in the Highlands of Scotland, but, according to the ' Journal of
Forestry,' it is so. A correspondent writing from Forres says there is to be
seen in the prosperous little village of Garmouth a Pear-tree of enormous
size, belonging to Mr James Spence, merchant there. It is known to be over
a hundred years old, and is of the following dimensions : height, about 40
feet ; circumference of trunk, 5 feet ; diameter of space underneath the
branches no less than 14 yards, which gives the enormous circumference of
126 feet. The huge branches are supported by means of planks running along
the top of eleven immense wooden pillars. The Pears are not large, but are
very sweet, and are known by the name of Golden Knot, or Golden Ball. I
counted a single cluster, which numbered no less than 300. The happy owner
of this, perhaps the largest and most prolific tree of its kind in Great Britain,
informed me that three years ago he had the curiosity to count the Pears it
yielded. When gathered they then reached the enormous number of 28,600.
At that time a large portion of the tree did not yield fruit, and since then
very little has grown on it. None of the Pears are as yet taken off this
season ; they hang in clusters like Grapes : a prettier sight one could not
imagine, and it is confidently expected that this season they will number con-
siderably over 50,000 ! No doubt this is the variety described by Hogg as
the Golden Knap, and as being "a prodigious and constant bearer, but other-
wise of no great merit." It is said also to be grown extensively in the Carse
of Gowrie.

According to a contemporary, Mr Macagno, in a paper ' ' devoted to the con-
sideration of the physiological functions of the leaves of the Vine," declares,
as the result of his experiments, that the principle juices of the Grape berry —
viz. , grape-sugar and cream-of-tartar — are first elaborated in the tissues of the
leaves, and appear at a later period in the berries. These two elements, we
are informed, are found in greatest proportion in the young leaves, above the
bunches, and in less proportion in the leaves which do not bear bunches, and
in the leaves below the bunches. Hence Mr Macagno assumes, though it is not
very clear why, that the removal of the leaves above the bunches must inter-
fere with the proper nutrition of the latter. This, it need hardly be men-
tioned, has also long been the common opinion of gardeners, and has been gen-
erally acted upon in practice ; but it has of late years been proved conclusively
enough that the removal of the leaves beyond the bunch does not interfere
with the proper nutrition of the fruit, so long as healthy foliage is on the Vine

1879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 19

and in the neighbourhood of the bunch. Mr Macagno's experiments simply-
proved the correctness of the views entertained by all Grape-cultivators, that a
healthy development of the foliage of the Vine is absolutely essential to the
production of fruit of good quality.

A curious fact, says one of the London dailies ('Globe'), is recorded in con-
nection with some experiments lately made, by direction of the Paris Accli-
matisation Society, with some grains of wheat received from Japan. Very
little spring sowing of wheat takes place in France, and as the small land-
owners who till their own land single-handed are frequently occupied in vari-
ous avocations during the day, they have very little opportunity for paying
proper attention to their farms at seed-time. The uncertain weather, again,
prevailing in October and November, is a great drawback to all agricultural
operations, and especially to such as are conducted in this desultory manner,
often, indeed, forcing the agriculturist to sow the inferior "spring" or "sum-
mer" wheat when he has been unable to prepare his ground for the more desir-
able "winter" variety. A suggestion, however, from a correspondent in Japan
has resulted in the discovery that Japanese wheat, planted in April or May, is
ripe and ready for the harvest quite as early as European-grown wheat sown
some five or six months earlier, and that the yield is equally large with that
produced from any of the varieties of European wheat. The great advantage
derived from the cultivation of the corn in question is in the additional time
available for ploughing and preparing the land, instead of these operations
being performed hastily under the uncomfortable and disadvantageous circum-
stances of wet, uncertain weather. These benefits would be thoroughly appre-
ciated in such a climate as our own. In cases where labour is abundant, the
additional period thus available before seed-time could be probably turned to
account in the cultivation of other crops in the interval; or, if this is not
done, the land would benefit by lying fallow for three or four months longer
than would otherwise be the case. Unfortunately, no particulars are given to
enable any opinion to be formed as to whether the "Japanese wheat" is a new
variety of corn, or whether its characteristics have been developed in European
wheat by any peculiarity in the soil, climate, and position of the locality
whence the particular specimen referred to was derived. We give the facts,
however, as they are reported by the Paris Societe d' Acclimation, in the hope
that any benefits that may be derived from the alleged discovery may be fully
realised in this country.

At one of the late Chrysanthemum Shows in England, a misguided young
man, but "a young man of great promise," nevertheless, with a more accu-
rate conception of the capacity of the judges than of the vigilance of his
opponents, constituted flowers up to the standard degree of excellence by
parting and pinning two or three inferior flowers together. The judges awarded
him the first prize (!), but another exhibitor, more suspicious than his neigh-
bours, made a critical examination of his opponent's flowers and discovered
the fraud, at which stage of the proceedings that "young man of great
promise" disappeared from the scene, feeling no doubt that he had not the
fortitude to receive the shower of compliments that awaited him as a "dresser
of florets of flowers," but we should say his services will nevertheless soon
be secured elsewhere. The "manufactured " blooms were removed to the Secre-
tary's chamber, and there, amidst a crowd of righteous exhibitors and bystanders,
with the hair of their head standing erect, no doubt, like that of Sandy
M'Grattis when he saw the ghost, the awful nature of the offence was revealed.
One of your contemporaries has, it appears, received more letters on the sub-

20 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

ject than it can find room for — all invoking vengeance on the head of the culprit,
we apprehend ; but the same paper, while repudiating the conduct of the de-
linquent in strong terms, hints that after all is said and done, making up
"Chrysanthemum blooms " in the way described and "dressing" Carnations
and Picotees, as is the custom among exhibitors, are practices which may not
differ greatly under certain circumstances. We are of opinion that the party
who discovered the fraud did a real service in exposing the same to the
Secretary, but having done that, and drawn attention to it in the press once,
his duty ended there. To the delinquent we say, as 'Punch' said, "Good
boy, don't do it again," PvEADER.

MIGNONNETTE FOR WINTER FORCING.

As the cultivation of Mignonnette for winter forcing is a work that
demands prospective attention, I have chosen the subject as one
likely to be both agreeable and interesting to many readers of ' The
Gardener ' at the commencement of the new year.

Who is it that does not admire a Rose-bud in December ? or that
does not wish for the return of their favourite garden companions 1
Amongst which the object of the present paper takes a leading place —
forcing Mignonnette. The term is significant, as if the winter culture
of this esteemed annual should be exclusively the business of the
professional gardener ; this, however, need not necessarily be so,
wherever there is a single vinery or greenhouse where a mean tempera-
ture of 50° can be maintained.

There are several varieties of Mignonnette, some of which are
worthless for forcing, but there are also many excellent strains that
can be procured from any respectable seedsman who has an eye to the
popularity and enhanced value of genuine novelties in florists' seeds.
The writer has found nothing better than that sold under the name of
Parson's Tree Mignonnette ; and Miles's Hybrid Spiral is also giving
great satisfaction. The latter is better adapted for growing in small
pots ; the habit is dwarf, and the flower-stalk is of more than ordinary
length. Approved strains of the former are well fitted for covering
trellises as taste may desire.

Speaking, or rather writing, of training, I do not think it is a
writer's duty to dogmatise on any particular form of training, as
gardening is either a pleasure or it is nothing, therefore every one
should have a right to please their own fancy, although I would like
to see nature have more of her own way at times. Umbrella-shaped
standards find favour with exhibitors ; and the pyramid form is also
popular. I adopt it with a few plants, but prefer the natural or bush
form which, when neatly done, presents no mean appearance amongst
a general collection of plants, and, unlike those formal heads or cones
that look as if they had been clipped with shears, are suitable for a

1879.] MIGNONNETTE FOR WINTER FORCING. 21

variety of purposes ; and yet the latter are pleasing objects in their
own places, when training is not " overdone " — that is to say, when the
plants are tied for the last time a little while before growth has ceased,
and there is a regular surface of growth all over the trellis, something
like a bed of Mignonnette in the open air.

The seed should be sown some time during the month of February,
or not later than the beginning of March, in 3-inch pots, washed clean,
and drained with a single crock laid over the drainage hole, and a
layer of cakey leaf-mould placed over it. The root should then be
filled to within watering space of the brim with rich open mould, and
pressed firm with the fingers. The requisite number of pots being col-
lected together on the potting-bench, and filled as directed, shake a
little soil through a fine sieve all over them in order to make a fine
level surface on which to lay the seeds, to the number of three or four
in a pot, and then cover slightly through a sieve as before.

If all the seeds germinate, of course the number will be reduced to
the strongest and most promising plant nearest to the centre of the
pot. When the seed is covered, the next point to be considered is the
most likely place to set the pots during the process of germination.
It may be said it is not a difficult matter to raise any quantity of
Mignonnette from seed ; still it depends much upon how the young
tenderlings are treated at this stage, whether they will develop and
furnish shoots in sufficient number and strength to form a trained
specimen. Therefore it is recommended that some special provision
be made at the commencement to keep the plants in a uniform tem-
perature till they are finally hardened off and turned out of doors. A
check to growth is sure to succeed if germination takes place in a
warm frame ; for although the atmosphere of a propagating frame may
be favourable to germination, it seldom or never happens that such
conditions can be kept up afterwards, and a check is the result. A
mean of 60° is safe, and if the soil is in a moist state when used,
and not exposed to variations of temperature, the seeds will germinate
in it without any further trouble than that of keeping up a humid
atmosphere by frequent sprinklings through a fine syringe. When the
young plants have attained the length of 2 or 3 inches, an upright
stake will be necessary to tie the plant to ; and the conditions recom-
mended during germination will need to be gradually modified until
the plants are fully exposed to light and air. There is no better place
for growing these and similar plants successfully than a low pit, with
a single hot-water pipe round it, where a steady temperature can be
kept up during our changeable spring months ; and it is also advised
that the pots should be plunged in sifted coal -ashes to lessen the
necessity of watering, and to counteract the effect of the outer air as
long as the plants are confined to small pots : and if the pit is a lean-to,
they should be turned round occasionally so that they will be fairly
proportioned and balanced for whatever form they are ultimately

22 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

intended to take. Watering will be best performed through a fine rose;
and they will also be benefited by a sprinkling of water overhead when
the pit is being shut in for the night, on the afternoons of fine days,
after air has been freely admitted through the early part of the day.

The compost most suitable for growing Mignonnette is turfy loam,
rotten manure, and a small proportion of soot — the two latter forming
about a third of the composition, supposing the manure is in a proper
working condition ; if this is not the case, a third of rough leaf-mould
and horse-droppings can be substituted, and will answer the purpose
very well with a dash of soot added : a fertiliser of no small value in
the cultivation of large or small specimens.

I may now observe that in potting, and in all future details, the
cultivator, whether his requirements are great or small, must, in the first
place, determine what form or forms of training will answer his pur-
pose best ; and in potting the first time, the plants should be arranged
in order to prevent confusion afterwards. Those that are intended to
form umbrella-shaped standards should be encouraged on one clean stem
to the required height, and pinched by merely "breaking off the point
of the shoot " in the soft young wood, so as to get a number of free
breaks which, in process of time, will multiply themselves, and cover
the whole trellis. The neatest and best furnished at the joints which
promise to grow with vigour should be selected for growing into pyra-
mids, and those of a more dwarf habit will come in for growing into
bush specimens.

Having supposed the plants to be healthy at the root, and to have
been shifted at the proper time, — that is, when the soil in the seed-pot
was like a block of mushroom spawn — when broken a mass of white
fibrous roots, — it is a fact that many young plants get more food than
is good for them at this stage, the roots naturally run to the side of
the pot first, when there is hardly a single root in the centre of the ball,
then comes overwatering and consequent bad health ; instead, therefore,
of giving certain dates for shifting, I would say be guided by personal
inspection, and act accordingly. After the plants are shifted into 5- or
6-inch pots, as the case may be, they should be returned to their old
quarters, and shaded from strong sun for an hour or two in the middle
of the day, and only syringed overhead in the meantime till they begin
to root afresh. The great object from this date is to keep them in a
continually growing state by supplying them carefully at the root with
water and syringing them constantly overhead whenever the weather
is favourable, — this keeps the young growths soft and increases the
number of shoots rapidly. In changing the position of the plants, as
the days lengthen, to one of natural shade, it should be done when the
weather is likely to be settled for a few days so that the change will
not result in a check to growth ; and, of course, they will still have the
protection of glass in cold weather. If there be any secret in the culti-
vation of these plants, it is in not pushing growth too fast at the com-

1879.] MIGNONNETTE FOR WINTER FORCING. 23

mencement, but to keep them moving steadily till genial weather is
ready to assist you, and then drive them along as fast as they will go.
When the weather is mild enough in June to leave them unprotected,
their position through the summer, whether it is favourable or other-
wise, is of far greater moment than the actual attention required in
watering, pinching, and training. The pots should be set either on
wooden spars or on a bed of coal-ashes or other rubble, behind a north
wall, where they will have the benefit of light, but no actual sunshine
unless what is subdued by decreasing power in the afternoon. In
a week or two after they are fully exposed they may have their final
shift into 9- or 10-inch pots, and training should be commenced im-
mediately afterwards. Most people have wire-trellises made by the
skilled hands of the wire-workers, and only need fastening to the pot.
The umbrella standards, at all events, are best procured ready made,
and when fixed in the pot the leading shoots should be drawn with a
view to filling the trellis equally at the end of the season : one tie to
each shoot will be sufficient at the beginning, and all through the
season the shoots may be allowed plenty of growing room, merely keep-
ing the main growths within bounds. The pyramids are easily formed,
the principal thing required being a little judgment in anticipating
what size of trellis a plant would cover from its appearance at the end
of June. The pyramid is formed in a rude way by placing a stout up-
right stake, painted green, to the plant, and by putting a wire-hoop
round the rim of the pot, extended or otherwise, as the case, may re-
quire, then adjust fine wires from the summit of the stake to the wire-
hoop with the matter of three or four circles interwoven in the vertical
wires to make the trellis convenient and substantial ; the shoots are
then regulated all over the trellis at equal distances, and every sub-
sequent shoot formed is laid in to fill the spaces between.

It would be almost superfluous to refer to artificial bush-training, the
system is so well known : one advantage, however, in the management
of large bush specimens, is to run fine wires from stake to stake at
about an inch from the top of each, so as to form a sort of hidden
framework to train upon. I saw one of those lovely bush specimens
7 feet 4 inches in diameter last year, which was timed to a nicety
in tying, and the effect was all that could be desired. But to
return to the details of summer treatment, after the last potting the
plants will now grow apace, and must be regularly watered and
syringed overhead, twice a-day in bright weather, for reasons before
suggested. All flowers should be removed as they appear, and training
proceeded with in a rough wray till the approach of autumn, w7hen
system and regularity should be the order of the day ; but at no time
do we advise or recommend training of a style that savours of trim-
ming at a barber's shop. As the days grow short and the nights grow
cold at the end of September, the plants will require the protection of
glass, and to be gradually introduced in small numbers to a tempera-

2i THE GARDENER. [Jan.

ture of 55°, where they will flower in great profusion, and maintain
the character of summer-grown plants, which a high temperature or a
sudden change would totally destroy.

Our early batch is now a-glow : some are being cut, and others are
utilised for various decorative purposes. W. Hinds.

THE AMATEURS GARDEN.
Believing that a few of the simplest directions in regard to the
cultivation of small gardens will prove of use to a large and increas-
ing number of your readers, knowing that very maDy of them
inhabiting suburban or country villas with small gardens attached
to them (but who do not employ professional gardeners) are often
at a loss how to proceed, and in consequence do not get the
amount of pleasure out of them that they might, — I beg to offer
a course of papers for their assistance. I will not say anything
on the laying out of grounds, as the proper disposal of ground
into kitchen quarters, shrubbery, flower-beds, and the levelling of
ground, making of walks, &c, require to be done by persons accus-
tomed to such work if it is to be done properly ; and, moreover,
rules might prove of no use in a majority of instances. There-
fore I consider the space will be better occupied with cultural
directions, such as the preparation of the ground, the selection of
seeds, the season for sowing, the manner of sowing, and all the
routine of generally cultivated kitchen-garden crops for one twelve-
month. The intention is to aim at this in the simplest possible
manner consistent with complete directions how to cultivate every-
thing, so as to secure the greatest possible success. It may perhaps
not be practicable to time the papers so that each as it appears in
' The Gardener ' will be that suitable for any given month. It is
also my intention to give as a sequel a few chapters on the most
popular flowers of the day suitable for small gardens, as well as direc-
tions for the successful management of the greenhouse, garden-frame,
&c. It will, then, be seen that the programme is pretty extensive,
and when completed it is hoped that it will be one to which amateurs
may refer in after years. At the same time, it is hoped that even
professionals may peruse these papers with profit, and more especially
young men who may be entering places for the first time ; as it often
happens that hints to those whose attention, in the probationary
stage of their career, has been too closely directed to plant and
fruit growing under glass, or to the more strictly ornamental depart-
ments, may prove of value, as not a few find kitchen-gardening the
weak point in their professional knowledge.

i879-] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 25

Our selection of seeds will be very short, as nothing tends more to
perplex the inexperienced than overwhelming lists.

As the first paper appears in January, I shall begin with work suit-
able for this month, and shall endeavour to do the same for the first
few months of the year at least.

The Cultivation of the Soil.

In new gardens the soil is very often of a poor description, and in order to
grow the finest vegetables to the greatest perfection,' it is imperative that
means be taken to put it into good condition. It is scarcely necessary to say
that, in the first place, it must be well drained. Stagnant water will render
abortive all efforts to cultivate well. If it is heavy clay it will be greatly
improved by an addition of fine lime-rubbish, sand, fine ashes, or road-sweep-
ings, especially off a road where the soil is of a light nature. But nothing
will prove so useful as wood-ashes, or part of the soil itself burnt. Light soil
requires the opposite treatment. Medium soils need nothing to alter their
mechanical nature. But all will require trenching and a very liberal manur-
ing to get them into the best condition the first season. All garden soils are
better if they are at least 2 feet deep, but many are not 1 foot. To prepare
any of these properly, let them be carefully turned over, trenched, and a
good layer of stable-yard manure dug in between every spadeful of earth.
If the soil is only 1 foot deep, it will be advisable to turn a little of the
subsoil to the top, if of a good quality, with a view to a deepening of the
whole. Over this subsoil should be spread a layer of very rotten manure to
be worked in in spring, mixing the manure, subsoil, and good soil as well as
possible after they have been pulverised with the weather. For this purpose
it is best to prepare such soils in autumn, as they then are exposed to the
whole winter's frost, and the rains have the effect of carrying the essence of
the manure into the body of the soil in an equal manner. If during frosty
weather a good soaking of urine can be given, it will further prepare the soil
for carrying first-class crops the first year. If the subsoil contains iron, as
is the case in most sands and gravels, or if otherwise unsuitable, it will be
much better to simply break it up with the fork, or pick if necessary, and
leave it where it is, laying a good coating of manure over it ; and by the next
time it is turned over the rain will have washed the deleterious matter out of
it, and that part of it enriched by the layer of manure will be fit to turn to
the top, when another inch or two can be broken up and improved in the same
way. This has been my own practice on a soil which did not average 8 inches,
and I can recommend it as being the best way of improving thin soils when
fresh good soil cannot be added. Of course this only applies to thin soils.
But even when the soil is deep, the bottom of the trench ought to be left in a
broken state, more especially if it be at all heavy.

It is to be understood that the foregoing remarks apply to soil under cultiva-
tion for the first time. In ordinary garden soils less work and much less man-
uring will suffice. But when land is first broken up, it will always pay to treat
it in the liberal manner described. Trenching is not resorted to as often as it
should be in villa gardens. It is too much the custom to simply spread manure
over the surface of the ground annually, and dig it in in spring; and no differ-
ence is made, no matter how great may be the different requirements of the
plants cultivated. Where the soil will admit of it, it ought to be turned
over to the depth of 2| feet once every three years. The first year it

2G THE GARDENER. [Jan.

ought to get a liberal manuring, according to its condition, and will then be fit
to grow tbe finest crop of Cauliflowers, Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, Savoys,
Greens, Peas, P>eans, kc. Next year it should be turned over two spades deep,
remembering that most vegetables are gross feeders ; a good manuring ought to
be again given, and different crops put in the same ground. Potatoes, with a
light manuring applied during autumn ; Leeks, but heavily manured, and a
host of other thing-;, such as Turnips, Lettuces, and Salads generally, will come
in the second year, and will do well on ground so prepared. The third year
manure of ordinary description may be dispensed with, and tap-rooting vege-
tables will grow to the greatest perfection, such as Carrots and Parsnips.
Many recommend trenching the soil for these crops ; but when broken up
triennally as described, and when manure is withheld, except a drenching of
urine during frosty weather, I have always found cleaner and finer crops than
when otherwise treated. They grow cleaner because there is nothing in the
way of fresh manure to entice the roots into the formation of forks, and as the
real plant-food sinks downwards by the action of rain, there is a tendency in
the tap-roots of Carrots and Parsnips to follow it. Soil for Onions is best pre-
pared by trenching in autumn, keeping all the manure within a very few inches
of the top, where the roots can readily lay hold of it. One dose of urine while
the ground is frozen will prove of the greatest benefit to the crop, and so will a
sprinkling of wood-ashes. Indeed these two valuable matters may be applied
everywhere with great benefit if not overdone.

For Rhubarb, soil should be trenched deeply and heavily manured — nothing
will prove of greater benefit to this crop than night-soil wrell mixed with the
soil. But it ought to be applied some time before planting, so that its ammonia
may have time to permeate the whole body of the soil — otherwise roots coming
into contact with it are apt to be injured. The same remarks apply to Seakale.
"Where Asparagus is grown it requires a deep, free, well-drained soil, well
enriched with stable-yard manure and prepared by several turnings. But unless
the climate is all the better, I would scarcely advise the amateur to attempt
Asparagus culture, as it requires much labour and cost before it can be planted
at all ; then it is twTo or three years before it yields, and if the soil is heavy, or
the situation exposed, ten chances to one but it is dead or the bed full of
blanks by that time. Still some of your readers may wTish to try it, and to
them is offered the above remarks on the preparation of the soil, and its further
cultivation will be treated of by-and-by. For all ordinary bush-fruits, such
as Currants, Gooseberries, Rasps, &c, as well as Strawberries, soil prepared or
recommended for Cabbages, &c, will answer ; but it is best to plant these in
autumn — the Strawberries in August, September, and early in October; the
others in October and early in November. But the cultivation of these will be
more fully noticed in due course.

The subjects here mentioned include the greater part of commonly cultivated
kitchen-garden plants. "Where special preparation of the soil is necessary for
special subjects, it will be noticed when these come to be considered.

Plants for January.

Peas. — A small sowing of Peas may be made some time during this month in
favourable localities, should the weather be open and the soil in good condition,
otherwise there is no gain in being early ; and those with small gardens had
better wait until the soil is in good condition. The best kinds for sowing thus
early are First Crop or Ringleader, Kentish Invicta (rather more tender than the
first, and apt to rot on wet soil if sown too early— otherwise an excellent Pea),

1879.] TUBEROSES FOR WINTER FLOWERING. 27

and William First. One pound will sow 20 feet of a drill 4 inches broad.
Sow not closer than 5 feet between drills.

Beans. — Sow a few Early Mazagan, 2 feet between drills, 3 inches in the
drill. This is the hardiest Bean we have.

Cabbages. — Strong plants may be put out in sheltered situations where the
climate is mild ; but it is quite soon enough yet for most localities.

Mustard and Cress may be sown under a frame or in a box placed in a
greenhouse or in the window, and will soon be fit for use.

A Gardener.

TUBEROSES FOR WINTER FLOWERING.

To say that the Tuberose is everybody's flower in winter would be
exceeding the mark, although its cultivation is simple and the price of
the bulbs exceedingly low. It is therefore surprising that they are not
more generally cultivated where the Rose, the Gardenia, and theEucharis
find a home, and are cherished by the lovers of the chaste and beauti-
ful amongst winter flowers. They are of the purest white — a colour
which is in great demand in winter — and are sweet-smelling as well.
Their presence in bridal or other bouquets, or as button-hole bouquets
for gentlemen, renders them an acquisition, and is certain to enhance
the estimate of their associates in whatever form they are employed.
A year ago I invested a small sum in the purchase of these bulbs,
and they have done good service for some time past in furnishing
little dainty flowers for special occasions. The time of potting
should be regulated according to the time they are wanted in flower ;
and perhaps I should also remark that they are rather slow in start-
ing into growth without a little excitement at the root, so that it is a
simple matter to postpone the period of flowering to almost any
period. Bulbs intended to flower next winter should be purchased
at once, and potted up at intervals in the same way that we manage
to bring in a succession of Hyacinths or Tulips. Any time after
next January will be early enough to pot up the latest batch, which
may be flowered in pots from 4 to 5 inches in diameter. The pots
should be cleaned and carefully crocked in such a way that there will
be no danger of the drainage getting stopped at any stage of growth.
In potting take a good mellow rich loam, such as is used for Hyacinths,
with a dash of coarse sand mixed with it ; press the soil in the bottom
of the pots moderately firm, and place a little sand under the base
of each bulb as a preservative against disease during the months of
comparative inaction, which must necessarily take place, in order to
have the flowers at the time required. The bulbs are placed at from
one-half to two-thirds of their depth in the soil, and when the opera-

28 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

tion of potting is performed, they will require to be plunged in sand
or other material up to the rim of the pot, with a shallow covering of
sand laid over the surface of the pots as well. I should have added,
with reference to potting, that the soil should be in a thoroughly
healthy state, but rather on the moist side ; the object of plunging
and covering' the surface of the soil in the pots being to prevent
any loss of moisture by evaporation, and thus avoid the necessity of
giving water before actual growth commences. As before remarked,
the bulbs are slow to start into growth without the assistance of a little
bottom-heat ; and where such is the case a few of the bulbs may be
pushed along about the beginning of May, merely giving them a start
and hardening them off to stand in cold pits or frames during the
warmest part of the summer. By dividing the stock into two or
three lots, and by advancing or retarding their condition as appear-
ance and circumstances may suggest, a few of those choice flowers
may be attained till far on in the winter ; but they are much more
difficult to manage after September than at any time previous, on
account of their dislike to a cold or damp climate. Even at a tem-
perature at 50° they are subject to damp off at the base of the flower-
stem if they are not prudently attended to with water; and the flowers
also decay if the atmospheric conditions are not regulated and kept
on the dry side before the house is closed up for the day. To sum up
briefly, a temperature of 60°, and a dry atmosphere with a sparing
supply of water at the root, are necessary conditions to insure a supply
of flowers in November and December months. Cultivator.

NOTES ON THE CULTURE OF THE HOLLYHOCK.

This stately autumn flower has within these last few years been gradu-
ally disappearing from gardens. Some six or seven years ago the
plants of southern growers were affected with a disease which in a
short time entirely destroyed every cultivated variety. This proved to
be a fungus, commonly found on the wayside Mallow, though not affect-
ing that plant to an injurious extent. Various remedies were tried to
destroy the fungus, but up to the present time no remedy has been
discovered capable of either preventing or curing the disease. Grad-
ually creeping northwards, it is doubtful if, at the present moment,
there is a collection in the country "clean." Late in the season of
1876 a nurseryman florist was discussing with me the points of what
was then a pretty good selection of varieties ; and when looking over
some newish kinds, some of the dreaded fungoid spots were discovered.
In the course of a few weeks the entire collection was blackened and
gone. A few plants in the flower-garden escaped to some extent :

1879.] CULTURE OF THE HOLLYHOCK. 29

these have been left in the same positions, and so well did they look
last season, that I fully expected to have got a fresh start with clean
plants ; but on inspecting them before winter, with a view to have
them lifted and propagated in spring, the enemy was found to be still
in possession. This summer, provided these plants are not seriously
affected, I will propagate a number in cold frames. Growth under
cool and moist conditions seems the only means of securing good spikes,
and comparatively free from disease.

What I would recommend, and what I am doing myself, is to raise
a stock from seed, and propagate any good variety which may be
produced. When the seed has been gathered from fine flowers, there
is a very large percentage of extra good varieties as the product, and a
fair collection may be formed from these, provided always there are no
Mallows in the neighbourhood, and no disease. Seed may be sown in
autumn or in spring. When sown in autumn the Hollyhocks may be
treated much in the same way as Cauliflowers, only raising the seedlings
under glass instead of in the open border, and duly pricking them out
under hand-glasses or in cold frames. I have found damp and slugs make
sad havoc with the seedlings during winter. To sow in the beginning
of March, and grow quickly, is better for the plants than to keep them
hanging on in a torpid condition throughout winter. Boxes used for
wintering Geraniums are very suitable for raising the seedlings in.
Prepare these with a layer of coal-ashes placed in the bottom for drain-
age, cover the ashes with rough Mushroom dung, and fill up with a
compost of three parts loam to one of old Mushroom dung. In sowing,
allow at least an inch of space for each plant, and merely press the
seeds into the soil so as to be nothing more than covered ; place a sheet
of brown paper over each box, and set them in a frame with a mild
heat. When the seedlings appear, gradually increase ventilation until
they can be removed to a cold frame, in which they will merely require
protection from frost, cold winds, and cold rains. It will depend on
the particular locality, soil, or climate, whether the seedlings can be
transferred from the boxes to the positions out-of-doors where they
are to bloom. If it is not safe to do so, the plants ought to be potted
singly in 6 -inch pots, draining these like the boxes, and using the
same compost, potting only moderately firm. In the course of another
fortnight they will require to be finally planted out. A spadeful and
a half of half soil, half dung, with a little soot, and some artificial
manure, such as Amies' Chemical, added, should be intimately mixed
with the natural soil of the border where each plant is to be placed.
This provides for the roots a ready medium until they ramify into the
border around, and thereby secures a quick, strong growth from the
first. The border itself should have been deeply turned up, and manure
mixed into the entire depth. A depth not less than 3 feet should be
aimed at; deeper than that, if possible. If the subsoil is unkindly, mix
the dung into it without bringing it to the surface at all. A rich, free,

30 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

deeply-cultivated soil is a simple necessity in the cultivation of the
Hollyhock. Stakes are very often placed in the ground before the
plants. By doing so, there is no after-harm possible to the roots, as
there is when not staked till required. The plants should be protected
from surface drought by a mulching shortly after planting. With a
properly-prepared border there ought to be no necessity to water the
plants during summer. When started into full growth, attention is
strictly required to keeping the flower-stalks loosely tied to the stakes
with broad slips of matting. Any varieties which may be considered
as possessed of qualities which would make their perpetuation desir-
able, should be cut over about the middle to the end of July, and the
flower-stalks cut up into single eyes, leaving a leaf to each bit of stem
and eye. It is hardly necessary to say that the flower-buds should be
removed when preparing the " eyes." When ready for insertion, boxes
may be filled with a sandy compost, into which the bits of stem are
placed ; or if a sufficiently large number are obtained, a cold frame
may be prepared by placing in it 3 inches of the compost, and in-
serting the eye-cuttings therein at once. When roots are produced,
prepare a frame for their reception during winter by placing a layer of
Mushroom dung in it, and over this a layer of pure soil ; plant the
rooted cuttings firmly in this, and keep the frames open to all weather
with the exception of frost or rain. The stools of the plants cut over
as above will push out young shoots ; these will strike if taken off
during winter, and placed in a cool house. Hand-glasses put over
them, further facilitates the process of rooting. The stools may also
be lifted and potted, kept in an intermediate temperature during winter,
and the shoots thus made taken off in the beginning of February, and
grafted on pieces of root. The pots are to be plunged in a moderately
brisk bottom-heat ; but coolness is necessary for the grafts. Free water-
ing is also necessary, and shading from direct sun. Directly growth
commences, transfer to cold frames, and shift into larger pots.

R. P. Brotheeston.

STRAWBERRIES IN AUTUMN AND WINTER.

Perhaps there is no time in the year more suitable than the present
for saying a few words about Strawberries, when the minds of all
engaged in forcing this indispensable fruit will be directed to their
plants, in the way of getting ready, and introducing them into
heat for their spring supply. As to the autumn supply, there is
no reason why Strawberries should not be had the whole year
round. What is more appreciated than a dish of fine fruit, say, when
all other small fruits outside are done? That this can be accom-
plished I shall endeavour to show. Much depends upon when the
first supply is needed. But that is best known to the cultivators,

i879-] STRAWBERRIES IN AUTUMN AND WINTER 31

who have different requirements to provide for. Plants, where intro-
duced into heat for the early spring supply, will — if taken care of and
gradually hardened off after the fruit has been gathered, then par-
tially shaken out and repotted — again give ripe fruit towards the
end of August or September. The time I consider the fruit most
serviceable, is from the end of October to December, after which
month Strawberry- growing is not so easy; and to have good fruit
then, the plants must be properly prepared for the purpose. The
most important point of all is the variety that is best for giving good
fruit at that season. Yicomtesse H. de Thury has hitherto been
considered the best ; it is now superseded by a variety brought into
notice by Mr Hinds — viz., Underbill's Sir Harry, a grand variety for
all purposes, and none to equal it for fruiting through the dreariest
months of the whole year. The fruit is very large, fine in colour, of
good flavour, and continues to throw up its flower-spikes and fruit
as freely in winter as in spring and summer.

Where a number of this variety are forced through the spring
months, after the fruit is gathered, and the plants hardened off and
placed outside in a north aspect, and rested for a time, they will be
ready for being partially shaken out and repotted or planted out.
They should have liberal supplies of water through the summer.
During the month of August they will commence throwing up their
flower-spikes freely ; and those that were planted out should be lifted
by the end of August and potted, placing them in a frame, and keep-
ing them close until they are established. Shelves in vineries and
cool Peach-houses are good places for them near the glass, where they
set their fruit and flower freely, and can be introduced into the
Strawberry-house as required. The air of the house must be kept as
dry as possible, with a good circulation of air on all favourable occa-
sions. If the air is allowed to become saturated with moisture, the
plants soon go off.

I would, in concluding, point to Mr Hinds's great success in autumn
Strawberry-growing : for instance, an excellent dish of fruit was ex-
hibited by him at St George's Hall, Liverpool, on the 20th of Novem-
ber; and on the 7th of December I saw an extra fine dish just
gathered — the fruit was of good flavour, good size, and well coloured.
Mr Hinds will have Strawberries for some time to come — such fruit
as many growers would be proud of in the spring.

William Bardney.

[We received a small box of splendid fruits from Mr Hinds on 3d Decem-
ber.—Ed.]

32 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

LESSONS IN DRAWING, ETC., FOR YOUNG GARDENERS.

No. XXIII.

At the commencement of these papers I pointed out that in drawing
any geometrical figure, or group of figures in a geometrical design,
it was first necessary to have two or more lines crossing each other
at right angles at the centre of the figure or group, to keep all
the parts exactly on the square. The same number of lines that are
found necessary to draw the design on paper is required for the
same purpose when laying it out on the ground. If a flower-garden
has to be laid out on a piece of ground which has been levelled and
is about to be turfed over, these lines may be marked out by laying a
line and taking out shallow drills, such as are taken out for small
seeds. The lines may be made perpendicular by the same rule given
for drawing them on paper, using either of the compasses described
in this chapter. It is, however, desirable to have a large T square
for this purpose. This may be made by any joiner. The legs should
be 8 or 10 feet long. The various centres, &c, can be measured from
these perpendicular lines, pegs inserted to mark them, and the whole
design traced out on the level surface. A number of pegs should
then be inserted all round the flower-beds, but at a distance of 2 inches
inside of where the turf will ultimately be cut, to permit of a good edge
being got. "When you have pegged out each bed, with a peg at each
centre, the perpendicular lines are of no further use. The ground may
then be lightly pointed over where the turf has to be laid, and the work
proceeded with as before described. When a design has to be laid
out on a lawn, lines will have to be stretched to serve as perpendicular
lines, till the centres, &c, are accurately marked by inserting pegs.
To facilitate the laying out of flower-gardens, and also in preparing
flower-beds for planting, especially carpet-beds, a ground-compass is
of very great service. A very good ground-compass may be made by
any ordinary joiner. It may be made from 3 to 5 feet long, the
wood being good, sound, well-seasoned Ash, 4 inches wide and 2
thick. The joint at the top, and the legs, may be formed similar to
an ordinary drawing-compass ; but instead of making both legs with
sharp points, make one stouter at the end, and have it fitted into the
top of a short stout peg, such as is shown at «, fig. 59, so as to form a
joint, with a wood peg through it, the same as at the top. This is
of much importance when working on soft ground, as the other leg
can be extended to its utmost extent, while the peg a still stands firm
and upright in the centre of the circle, keeping the circumference
quite true, which would be more difficult to do were both legs alike.
A compass of this sort should also be fitted with a semicircular piece

i879.]

LESSONS IN DRAWING, ETC.

33

of stout sheet-iron, fixed into one leg and passed through an opening
in the other, as shown, with a thumb-screw to fix it at any desired
radius. The other leg of the compass should
be reduced to a point, and shod with iron to
keep it from wearing or getting broken. The
beam-compass is an article which any gar-
dener, with a little assistance from a black-
smith, may make for himself. Get two iron
rods, 2 feet long and J inch thick — similar
to those shown at a b, fig. 60 — pierced with
small holes 3 inches apart. The rod a
should have a thickish shoulder worked
upon it, some 6 or 8 inches from its point,
for the double purpose of steadying it in
the ground and supporting the lath or beam
part of the compass. Eod b should be made
with a sharp point for tracing out figures

on the ground. The lath should be 10

Fig. 59.

thick. Mark this off
garden measuring- rod,

or 12 feet long, 2 inches wide, and 1 inch

into feet and inches after the manner of a

and get it pierced with holes the same size as the iron rods at every

inch of its length, so that rod a may be shifted to any desired point.

These holes will not have to be made in one row along the centre of

the lath, but in two or three rows, zigzag fashion, as there will be

T

T

Fig. 60.

less chance of the lath splitting in two. By placing a short piece of
stout wire through the hole nearest to the point of rod b, after pass-
ing it through the lath, it will prevent the latter from slipping off
while the circle is being described by swinging it round by the handle
of the rod. A similar piece of wire placed through either of the
holes in rod a will serve to support the lath farther from the ground,
should anything intervene between the centre of the circle and the
circumference to make that necessary. It will of course be under-
stood that in marking off the feet and inches on the lath, the measure-
ment must start from the first hole, or that through which the rod a
is to be placed.

Both these forms of compasses have a fault — their radii are
limited. The simplest of all compasses for ground work, and which

34

THE GARDENER.

[Jan.

has not this fault, is represented at fig. CI. This is simply a peg

inserted at the centre of the circle, the looped end of a line placed

over it ; the line is then put twice round
a peg at the circumference, as shown in
our fig., the loose end of the line beiDg
grasped and held tight by the left hand,
while the peg b is held in the right. By
this means a circle can be drawn quite
as accurately as with a compass, and of
any dimensions — it being only a ques-
tion of length of line. If the line is

placed properly round the peg b, as is shown, the latter has only to

be turned round to the right or left to increase or diminish the radius ;

and on this account, when once set to the proper radius, the peg has

to be held very steady while tracing out the figure.

Just a few words more about cutting turf edges. In setting pegs

round curved beds or edges of walks, for this purpose you must con-

Fig. 61.

Fig. 62.

sider which side of the peg your line will occupy. At a a, fig. 62, the
line is between the pegs and the walk — or, in other words, your edge
is on the outside of the circle. In this case the edging-knife should
come close up to each peg, giving it, as near as the eye can guess, the
proper sweep between the pegs. On the other hand, when the line
is behind the pegs, your edge being inside the circle, as seen at b b,
the pegs must be placed a little farther back, so that when cutting
the edging the knife will come up to the line half-way between the
pegs, giving it the proper curve between these points, which will have
the pegs more or less inside the edge. It is sometimes more difficult
to cut a straight edge well than to cut round a curve. In doing this
many make the mistake of cutting close to the line, and very often
displace the line. In the first place, the line should be made very
tight; and after making sure that all is right, place your right foot on
the line about a yard from the end, and with the edging-knife make

1879.] HARDY WINTER GARDENING. 35

a clean, straight cut, about half an inch from the line up to where
your foot is on the line ; and then, before lifting your foot, place the
edging-knife across the line to keep it in its place, while you move
your foot back another yard upon the line. This process is quite
necessary when there are any irregularities in the edging, if a straight
edge is wanted; and it is safe to adopt it even when the edge is quite
smooth. R. Ixglis.

HARDY WINTER GARDENING.

I have been much pleased with your article on "Hardy "Winter
Gardening " in ' The Gardener ' for December ; and as I have been
for some years creeping on on the same lines, I think some of my
experience may interest you.

For some years I took great pains to fill my beds, after the Pelargoni-
ums, &c, were removed in October, with plants destined to bloom in
spring, such as Nemophila, Silene, and other early annuals; and as they
came in too late, and lasted so short a time, I subsequently adopted
the new Violas, which made a brilliant show, but had to be removed
just when in greatest beauty. The centres of the beds were occupied
by permanent patterns in the form of dwarf hedges of the Golden
Holly, Silver Holly, Golden Yew ; and latterly the Golden Euonymus
latifolius occupied a good space in the winter, but was removed to
the kitchen-garden in the summer. I plant largely and permanently
the Euonymus radicans as borders : but the latifolius albo-marginatus,
of which I had a large quantity, was apt to die, and even if it lived,
to turn green ; it is therefore discarded. I have now thrown aside
all idea of a movable garden, which, in most places where it exists, is
filled up with branches of Firs, Hollies, &c, and has the disagreeable
effect produced by all shams. I have continued the marking out of
the centres of scrolls and round beds with the Euonymus latifolius
aureus ; Thuja elegantissima, which is of a brilliant yellow all spring
and summer; and Retinospora aurea, which always retains a deep
gold colour. The Golden Yew looks very pale, except in summer ; but
I think Barron's variety Elvastonensis will be an acquisition.

I have all the Cupressus Lawsoniani you mention, and one more,
the Pigrucea, which makes a fine dark spot in the midst of white
Pelargoniums such as Bridal Wreath.

Now, my idea has long been that masses of scarlet, white, and pink
Pelargoniums in this climate, although brilliant objects when the
weather is fine, are too easily blackened and thrown about by a heavy
shower to be depended upon, and that a few dozens of good plants in
small clumps amid the tracery of permanent shrubs, if not so dazzling

3G THE GARDENER. [Jan.

from any one point of view, would contribute more interest and
pleasure to the garden. The only plants in your list that I have not
are Hedera arborea, yellow and white.

The Violas have been transferred to a garden entirely for them-
selves, and were beautiful last summer up to September, when the
beds were re-made for spring ; and I have come to the conclusion that
a summer and spring garden cannot well coexist. C.

CHANGE OF SOIL FOE FRUIT-TREES, ROSES, &c.

In the cultivation of permanent plants — more especially of those requir-
ing high cultivation — there is nothing of so much benefit as a change
of soil. Tea-Roses — indeed all Roses — which have grown for years
on the same spot, and which have been liberally treated with food
in the form of top-dressings and manure-waterings, grow weakly and
unhealthy in time. Tea-Roses which are annually lifted and pro-
tected, and when replanted in spring have a good quantity of whole-
some loam placed next their roots, give greater satisfaction gener-
ally than those which are not so treated, but which are liberally
manured instead. And common Hybrid Perpetual Roses, which
stand for years in the beds and become irregular, when lifted,
regulated, and replanted, do much better if some of the old soil
be taken away and fresh maiden loam added in its place. Fruit-
trees in heavily-manured kitchen-gardens generally do not thrive
in the sense of making proper fruit-bearing wood ; and although
lifting ami root-pruning certainly induces a better habit, the differ-
ence between those replanted in the old soil and those which are
treated to new loam or intelligently - made - up compost is very
marked. This is all very well known, and is often enough enforced;
but the facts do not seem to be acted upon as they might. This
being so, we have thought that a paper on the subject might help
young beginners and amateurs whose trees may be in an unsatis-
factory state, and which might be improved by a little well-directed
labour. At the same time it may not be out of place to mention,
that in order to succeed it is not enough to provide proper soil, and
not enough to properly care for the roots of trees.

It is possible to do all that can be done and still not be success-
ful. "We have had many instances brought before us of failure
and fruitlessness occurring simply because the kinds of fruit-trees,
&c, were not suited to the climate. It is useless to expect success
if varieties of fruit-trees are grown which will not ripen their fruit
in an ordinary season. No greater blunder can be committed than

i379-] SOIL FOR FRUIT-TREES, ROSES, ETC. 37

hankering after the finer kinds of Plums, Pears, and even Peaches,
when the crops of the hardier Apples, &c, are precarious from an
unfavourable climate. This by the way, however, merely as a warn-
ing to beginners.

Generally speaking, fruit-trees, Roses, &c, which are greatly bene-
fited by lifting and replanting in fresh soil, have been growing in soil
that is too rich. Excessive richness has a tendency to cause an over-
exuberant growth ; and when this occurs in a district not particularly
favoured by sunshine, and where heavy rains prevail, the evil is
aggravated. It is much more easy to cause unfruitfulness in fruit-trees
and a scarcity of flowers on flowering-plants by manure in a cloudy
climate than in a sunny one, and hence we ought to take this into
our calculations. For successful fruit-tree cultivation in a cloudy
wet climate, a hale loam on a dry bottom is an almost imperative
necessity : a heavily - manured soil in such a climate will give
great crops of wood, — while the same soil in a dry sunny climate
will produce results diametrically opposite. Still, speaking gener-
ally, heavily-manured soils are to be avoided. But with wall and
other trees in kitchen-gardens, it is impracticable to give the trees
all the root-run that they require entirely to themselves. Vegetables
should occupy the borders, and to grow these well quantities of manure
have to be regularly added which very soon convert the border into a
state unfavourable to fruitfulness in the trees. It would be to little
purpose to say that for all this there were no remedy. But there is a
remedy, and that is lifting and replanting, at the same time giving
an addition of fresh soil to the tree-roots to run in. Few people who
have not seen this done are aware of the effect on the trees : they
become transformed into a condition of productiveness, whereas
before they were the opposite. The difficulty is to get fresh loam.
To many this may be easy enough; to the majority, we are afraid,
it is an impossibility. And doubtless there are many who would
have no difficulty about getting the loam, who are glad to leave
the trees alone for want of labour-power ; for it is a painful fact that
many gardens are only half cultivated through want of strength.
But where there is strength enough but no fresh soil, it is almost
always of benefit to lift and replant over-luxuriant trees, using the
best and cleanest soil at hand ; for in numberless instances it is
through overfeeding that barrenness is produced. It is not that the
soil is exhausted, but it is because it affords too much.

In rich adhesive soils the roots of trees run out into great quill-like
suckers-up of moisture and gaseous food, producing growth which
the climate cannot ripen. This is more especially the case if
the subsoil is wet and the roots are deep. We do not know

38 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

whether it has been demonstrated or not that the temperature
of the branches is affected by the heat being taken away by the
cold soil ; but it has been satisfactorily demonstrated that the heat
of the surrounding air is appreciably lowered by the evaporation of
water from the leaves. This is one reason why trees with long fleshy
roots in a humid subsoil do not ripen so well as those whose roots
are in a drier and warmer soil, and are, when near the surface, warmed
by the sun's rays into the bargain. And another reason is, as we said,
because when the latter conditions exist the growth is sooner finished,
and therefore there is more time to ripen it. In addition to what has
been said, it may be remarked that solidity of soil favours earliness
and fruitfulness.

We once had a hand in planting a quantity of fruit-trees — chiefly
Plums — all of which were planted in good turfy loam. Some of
these were planted in the ordinary wall -border, and others in a
border having a walk over it close up to the wall. As this walk was
subjected to a good deal of traffic the soil soon became very solid.
The latter although they scarcely filled their places as rapidly
as the others, are now much better furnished with fruit -buds
than the former, and have borne much more fruit. Roses,
planted under similar conditions, have given similar results, — harder,
stouter, and more floriferous growth. Were it not for the trouble
consequent on breaking up the walks when trees require removal,
our idea is that, with a well-made border underneath, it would give
better results to run our walks close to the walls all round than to crop
the borders. But the question we wish to ask, and partly to answer
here, is — Do we cultivate our soils with an eye to maintaining the trees
in the best condition possible 1 We think that, speaking in a general
way, we do not. The one idea generally prevalent in preparing
kitchen-garden ground is to keep it in the best condition possible by
adding annually quantities of stable- yard manure. ISTow the idea
systematically carried out for a number of years ends in turning
what may have been the finest brown or yellow loam into black
garden-earth — rich, certainly, but pasty as putty if the soil is wet, and
puddled into a most unsuitable state for fruit-trees by swarms of earth-
worms, to say nothing of the other insect-pests engendered by gar-
den soil of this description. When the soil is in this state, wall-
trees do not bear as they do in good loam. The cure is repeated
yearly in our calendars : " Lift, root-prune, and replant into well-
firmed loam." And the advice is good ; but the practice which con-
verts good loam into black garden-earth is not good practice. Of
late years our kitchen-garden and our hardy fruits have not had the
attention that "the houses" and the parterre have had [too true. — Ed.],

1879.] SOIL FOR FRUIT-TREES, ROSES, ETC. 39

and consequently the improved cultivation which has brought these
departments into their very high state of cultivation has absorbed too
much of the attention which ought to have been given to our hardy
fruits and our kitchen-garden soils. We by no means blame gardeners
for this state of matters. Fashion has led to our present demand for
sensational parterres and perennial supplies of cut-flowers and decora-
tive plants, and many gardeners have had to meet an overwhelming
increase of work without any addition to their staff, and the inevit-
able result is neglect somewhere. But though this is true, it is also
true that many do not give these matters the attention they might do
and which they deserve. Our opinion is that soils are injured through
getting too much farmyard straw dug into them. We have a great
antipathy to soils which have lost the brown colour of their virginity,
and we are certainly of opinion that with proper treatment they ought
not to lose it. Were less stableyard straw dug into the soil, and its
place supplied by the urine which is often wasted, this result would not
so readily ensue. Practically it is an impossibility to turn brown
loam into black garden-earth with urine — and practically the very
finest kitchen-garden crops can be raised by its aid with very little
solid manure, and the less straw the better. And many of our arti-
ficial manures might be profitably employed for the same purpose.
And the same means which are useful to prevent soil losing its best
properties are of equal use in restoring what is often called worn-out
soil ; and if deep trenching was called into aid the results would be
better still. We have sometimes seen portions of large kitchen -
gardens laid down in grass, kept close by sheep, and the improvement
effected was immense. We once had a hand in clearing out the whole
of the beds of a large parterre, and replacing it by soil from the
kitchen-garden, and the results were most favourable. What we have
written is not theory merely : we have proved it to be fact, and the
course laid down we are in the habit of following. Loam is not always
attainable, and in cases of this kind it becomes a double reason for
maintaining the soils we cultivate as near that condition as possible ;
for although a change of soil for permanent plants is certainly as
advantageous as for temporary crops, it is also as certainly true that
permanent plants often — almost always — do ill because their roots
are in unsuitable soil. When the soil is right the trees them-
selves find a change, because the roots are ever extending outwards
to "fresh fields and pastures new;" and learning the lesson
thus taught, we ought, when we lift and root -prune, to fill in
the pit with other soil than that removed, even although the soil may
seem quite the same. No plant takes quite the same kind of food
from the soil as its fellow, and although we may only make an ex-

40 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

change, it may be fraught with benefit to the different subjects. This
may often be accomplished by lifting, trenching, and replanting, as in
the case of Rose-beds, and other things similarly planted.

Alex. IIoxeyman.

THE CULFORD VINE SPORT.

As many of our readers will remember, a West St Peter's Vine
at Culford had a graft of Alicante put on to it, the branches of the
latter variety being again furnished with grafts or inarches of, among
other sorts, Trebbiano and Golden Champion. In course of time
the Golden Champion was entirely cut away, but the rod of Treb-
biano was believed by some to have produced, the following year, a
bunch of Golden Champion. Mr Thomson of Tweed Vineyards, as
well as many others, thought that those who believed this occurrence
had made a mistake. In order to convince Mr Thomson of the
truth of it, eyes of the erratic Vine were sent to him, one of which
was in due course grafted on to a Muscat stock. The produce of
this bud or graft was six bunches of what Mr Thomson and
many others have no manner of doubt is Trebbia.no Grape. This of
course does not count for much, for ' The Gardeners' Chronicle ' con-
siders that in all probability only said bunches are Trebbiano, and
one "competent authority" thinks it may be White Tokay. The
eyes taken from the shoot that produced the Golden Champion at
Culford died. Some may say, " And no wonder, after such a pro-
digious effort." However, its " apparition," it is hopefully expected,
may appear again next year after a " season's rest." This is the age
of surprises. We have heard of a game the Americans term " per-
hapses." This Grape case very much resembles it in its uncertainty.
Perhaps Mr Thomson knows a Trebbiano from a Golden Champion
or a Tokay when he sees it, and perhaps he does not. Perhaps the
grapes he produced from the bud sent him were Tokays, and per-
haps they were not. The Duke of Buccleuch Grape has been blamed
for many evil ways, but never for starring it as a " ghosteses " in
the provinces, although it has been so often murdered and put out
of sight.

We are not quite done with the apparition yet, for it has appeared
as large as life this year at Brayton Hall. This may account for its
non-appearance elsewhere. At Brayton there is a bunch of Trebbiano
with such enormously large berries, that we know of nothing so
likely as that it should be mistaken for the Champion. When quite
ripe, this bunch showed the tenderness of skin peculiar to Treb-
biano and Golden Champion under certain conditions. The Vine at

iS79-] NOTES ON POTATO CROP OF 1878. 41

Brayton is on its own roots, and has never been inoculated ! Mr
Hammond does not seem the least uncertain or nervous about this
apparition, and we must leave to a contemporary the task of trying
to " diddle " him into the belief that his Vine has, so to speak, the
voice of Esau and the hand of Jacob. Has any one ever seen the
wood and foliage of one variety of Vine bear the fruit of another %

NOTES OIST POTATO CHOP OP 1873.
Last year I sent to ' The Gardener ' a few notes on the varieties of
Potatoes we had then under trial. It having been a very unfavour-
able season for Potatoes, as well as for most other crops, I decided to
give them a further trial this year, along with a good many other
varieties. This season may be considered a fair average one for
Potatoes. I may mention, however, that from some local cause
Potatoes are peculiarly liable to disease in the garden here : even
in the most favourable seasons we are almost sure to have less or
more disease, although there should not be any in the neighbour-
hood. Our soil is somewhat heavy, but on a dry bottom, consisting
of sand and gravel, the good soil varying from 2 feet up to 4 or 5
feet. AVe are much closed in by trees, however, especially to the
north, west, and south, and a 14-feet wall all round the garden, so
that it may possibly arise from being too well sheltered.

The varieties I have enumerated below were mostly all grown on
the same piece of ground, were all planted at the same time, and
nearly all taken up at the same time — viz., the beginning of Sep-
tember. I have been thus late in sending the report, in order to see
how they would keep after being stored, as they were all but free
from disease when taken up. Some of the varieties I had last year
nearly all went off diseased after I had written the report.

WHITE KIDNEY SECTION.

International Kidney. — Extra good crop, very large tubers, and of fair aver-
age quality.

Covcnt Garden Market. — Very good crop, tubers a nice size for table, and
very good when cooked ; a first-rate potato.

American Bread-fruit. — Extra good crop, very large tubers, but of good
form ; not first-rate, however, when cooked.

Prince of Teclc. — In every respect very bad ; discarded.

Mono's Pride. — A well-known variety, good crop of fair-sized tubers, and
very good to eat.

Snoicfiake. — This variety, though generally classed with Kidneys, should, I
think, be in another class altogether, being more flattish than kidney-shaped.
A very fine crop of large tubers, and excellent to eat.

42 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

Jackson's Kidney. — Crop poor with me; but a neighbouring gardener tells
me it was about the best cropper he had : neither was it good when cooked,
so I have discarded it.

Hyatt' 8 Ash-leaf. — Too well known to need much commendation: in every
respect one of the best of its class.

Early Sandringham. — A fine crop of large tubers, very like, and quite equal
to, Myatt's, though slightly different in flavour.

Lapstone Kidney. — Good crop of fair-sized tubers, flavour good, flesh firm,
but not a mealy Potato.

Sutton's Prolific. — Very large crop, tubers of fair size, but only second-class
to eat.

Magnum Bonv/m. — An extraordinary cropper, and tubers of splendid size and
form. This variety was planted a long time after the other — in fact, very late
— but was grown on a very rich piece of ground. I weighed the produce of
almost every shaw as I lifted them, and found them to range from 5 lb. up to
9 lb. It is also of very fine quality when cooked, and has remained quite free
from disease. Altogether this is perhaps the best Potato of recent introduction.

RED KIDNEY SECTION.

Early Sovereign. — Good crop, fair size, not good to eat.

Early Vermont. — Very good crop of large tubers ; soapy, but of good flavour.

Late Hose. — Good crop of large tubers ; fairly good when cooked.

Wonderful. — A well-named variety ; crop averaged thirty tubers to the shaw.
The produce of ten shaws, taken in the order of lifting, weighed a little over
56 lb. Tubers of fair size, and very good to eat.

Bountiful. — Similar in appearance to Wonderful, but of somewhat deeper
colour ; a good crop, medium size, and of fair average quality.

Ruby. — Fair crop, average size, and of pretty good flavour.

ROUND SECTION (WHITE).

Schoolmaster. — Fair crop of large tubers, good when cooked ; slightly diseased.

Model. — Large tubers, but in every other respect very bad ; discarded.

Porter's Excelsior. — Good crop of finely -formed tubers; very good when
cooked — an excellent Potato.

Thorburn's Early Paragon is a paragon of badness ; discarded.

Alpha. — Bad in every respect ; also discarded.

Eureka. — Fair crop, tubers large, and of fair quality.

American Early. — Fair crop of good-sized tubers, and of very good quality.

Giant King. — Fair crop, large tubers, but very bad to eat; discarded.

Climax. — Good crop of nice-sized tubers, and of very good quality; a fine
table Potato.

Coldstream Early. — Fair crop, large tubers, and of very good quality.

Oxford Early. — Good crop of nice-sized tubers. This I consider about the
best early round white Potato I have got, and in all respects, perhaps, one of
the best in cultivation. I have grown it for years.

Fenn's Early Market. — Good crop, large tubers, good to eat, but badly dis-
eased ; seems too tender for this soil, but might have been better if it had been
taken up earlier.

Eaintree's Early. — Middling crop, badly diseased ; discarded.

Dalmahoy. — Good crop, large tubers, very good to eat, but slightly diseased.

Pdntoul's White Don. — A good crop of large tubers, and of good quality.

1879.] SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. 43

ROUND COLOURED SECTION.

Forty/old. — A good crop of moderately -sized tubers, always welcome at
table.

New Rose-end. — Fair crop, large tubers, but inferior when cooked, and
diseased.

RintouVs Striped Don. — Large crop, good-sized tubers, and of very good
quality.

NisbeVs Don. — Fair crop, medium-sized tubers, and very good when cooked.

Red-shin Flour-ball. — Bad crop, badly diseased, and not good to eat ; dis-
carded.

All of the above, excepting those specified, were free from disease when
lifted. I had those which I put away for seed looked over and examined
about the end of October. The following list remained free from disease — viz.,
New Rose-end, Magnum Bonum, Early Sandringham, Oxford Early, Rintoul's
"White Don, ilyatt's Ash-leaf, Ruby, Wonderful, Climax, Sutton's Prolific.
The following were slightly diseased — viz., Coldstream Early, Porter's Excel-
sior, Snowflake, Fenn's Early Market, Nisbet's Don, American Bread-fruit,
Covent Garden Market, American Early, and Schoolmaster. Those badly
diseased as follows — viz., Forty fold, Rintoul's Striped Don, Dalmahoy, Early
Sovereign, Eureka, Bountiful, Early Vermont, Late Rose, International Kid-
ney, and Red-skin Flour-ball. I hardly expect to be able to save any sets for
planting of some varieties in the last-named section.

J. G. W.

DOUBLE WHITE HEPATICA?

In the course of a paper on " Hardy Spring Flowers," read by Mr
Robertson Munro before the Scottish Horticultural Association last
month, he stated that while there were varieties of double red and
blue Hepaticas, he was not aware of a double white one being in
cultivation. Mr Munro is a very high authority on such subjects ;
but as it seems strange, I would feel obliged if you, or any of your
readers, would say if you have met with such. — Yours, &c,

Theta.

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The monthly meeting was held in the hall, 5 St Andrew Scpiare, Edinburgh,
on Tuesday evening the 3d ult. — Mr Dunn, president, in the chair. Mr L.
Dow read a paper on the " Kitchen-garden." After a few preliminary remarks
illustrative of the great importance of young gardeners making this branch of
their profession the subject of special study, he gave in detail the modes he
had practised for many years for the successful cultivation of Cauliflowers,
Peas, Carrots, and Swedish Turnips, dealing with the latter chiefly for winter
forcing — the roots being treated in a similar manner to Seakale, the blanched
leaves alone being used, and as much appreciated as those of that vegetable.

U THE GARDENER. [Jan.

Mr "Robertson Munro followed with, a paper on " Hardy Spring Flowers. "
These plants, he remarked, were unrivalled for beaut}T. He was happy to notice
that after a long period of comparative neglect they^were again coming to the
front ; more attention was being paid to their cultivation ; and that in some
gardens the flower-beds, which had hitherto stood empty for about six months
of the year, were rendered interesting, and even gay, from January to Ma}-,
and this at a trifling amount of trouble and expense. Among the plants suit-
able for the purpose he recommended the following, which generally came into
flower in the order named, and which could be transferred if necessary, at the
bedding-out season, to the reserve borders, and again arranged in the beds in
the beginning of winter : Helleborus nigra and nigra major, Snowdrops,
Cyclamen coum, "Winter Aconite, Scillas siberica and bifolia, Sisyrinchiuru
grandiflorum and grandiflorum album ; Hepaticas angulosaand triloba, with its
varieties; Anemones apennina, nemorosa, andfulgens; Myosotus dissitifiora ;
Crocus, various sorts; Daisies of sorts, the two showiest being the large flat-
petalled white and the dark-crimson Rob Roy ; Primulas of various sorts ;
Aubrietias purpurea and p. grandiflora ; Saxifragas oppositifolia and Bur-
seriana; Puschkinia scilloides, Tulips, Narcissus, Alpine and common Wall-
flowers, &c.

Of the articles placed on the table for exhibition, the most interesting were
specimens of a new seedling kitchen Apple, named Earl of Moray, from Mr
Webster of Gordon Castle, which was stated to be an abundant bearer, and
was found to keep well. Messrs Dicksons and Co. had two stands of Chry-
santhemum blooms, including 63 varieties : the finest of these were rotundi-
florum, pearl white, incurved petals ; Elaine, large pure white ; La Belle
Blonde, blush, incurved ; Mrs George Parnell, white, incurved ; Mrs George
Ptundell, white, incurved; Cardinal Wiseman, bright reddish crimson, in-
curved ; Mrs Stewart, ruby; Prince of Wales, violet purple ; Duke of
Edinburgh, rosy lilac ; Emblem, rosy purple, incurved ; Gloria Mundi,
golden yellow ; George Glenny, light amber, incurved ; Abbe Passaglia,
amber, incurved. A specimen of Sibthorpia europea variegata, growing in a
shallow pan, and forming a dense cushion about twelve inches in diameter,
from Messrs Downie and Laird, was very much admired; and in response to a
call by the chairman, Mr Kerr, one of the foremen of the establishment, briefly
described the treatment it had received. He believed that much of the want of
success in its management was to be attributed to undue coddling. The soil
consisted of about equal parts of leaf-mould and crocks broken very small,
with a top-dressing of the smallest sea-gravel, through which the tender stem-
roots rambled freely and sought into the soil. The plant had never been
watered overhead, but was supplied with the necessary moisture by immers-
ing the pan up to the brim for a few hours about once a-month in tepid water.
The pan was placed in an ornamental vase, and had stood all the past season
on a grated shelf in a shady part of the greenhouse covered with a bell-glass
two or three inches larger in diameter than the vase, so that air was admitted
freely from below.

It was intimated that at next meeting Mr John Sadler would read a paper
on the " Physiology of Plant Life."

1879.] ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 45

EOYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

17TH DECEMBER.

Fruit. Committee.— Henry Webb, Esq., Vice-President, in the chair. Mr
Dancer, Little Sutton, sent Reinette de Caux and Dutch Mignonne Apples, and
the Committee were of opinion that the two varieties are essentially identical.
Mr Moore of Warwick sent four varieties of seedling Apples. One, a seedling
from Wyken Pippin, was a very handsome small dessert Apple of the size
and shape of Golden Pippin. This was thought highly of by the Committee,
but had been gathered too soon and had become shrivelled. Another, raised
from Bess Pool, was also of excellent quality — tender in the flesh and of deli-
cate flavour. These the Committee would like to see again. The others, too,
were not thought to be an improvement on existing varieties. Messrs W.
Paul & Son exhibited a dish of Theresia Nevill Pear, a new variety raised by
Mr John Mannington, the raiser of Mannington's Pearmain Apple. It is of
good size, rather irregular in shape, like Ne Plus Meuris, of a fine firm buttery
flesh and delicate aroma, with a rich flavour. This is a valuable winter Pear,
which will, no doubt, be heard of again. Mr Killick of Langley sent a dish
of an Apple called King William — a handsome, somewhat flattened, highly-
coloured Apple of very rich flavour, which was highly commended.

Sir Charles Strickland, Bart., reported on the varieties of cooking Apples
that were submitted to his examination at last meeting. Dr Hogg, raised by
Mr Sydney Ford, "very like the White Calville — probably a seedling from it.
Melts perfectly, does not fall at all, juicy, slightly acid, very rich and sugary,
delicate aroma. A first-rate baking- Apple. If the tree should prove hardy,
healthy, and productive, this will be a valuable Apple. I should like to tiy
its quality later in the season." This was awarded a first-class certificate.
Mr Sydney Ford exhibited six dishes of Apples, to which a letter of thanks
was awarded. Messrs Ross, Coates, & Co., Dunster House, Mark Lane,
exhibited Apples cut in slices and dried, received from the United States.
They preserved all the briskness and flavour of the fresh Apple, and were
commended.

Mr J. Douglas, Loxford Hall, Essex, exhibited bunches of Golden Queen
and Royal Vineyard Grapes grown in the same house and under the same
treatment, the object of which was to show the unhealthy constitution of the
former, which had begun to decay in every berry, while the latter was quite
firm and fresh.

Mr G. F. Wilson, F.R.S., Heatherbank, Weybridge, sent dried fruit of
Bananas, which were considered good as a sweetmeat.

Mr D. Wilson, The Gardens, Castle Hill, South Molton, sent two very
handsome smooth-leaved Cayenne Pine -Apples, weighing respectively 8 lb.
and 7 1 lb., to which a cultural commendation was awarded. Mr W. Iggulden,
The Gardens, Orsett Hall, Romford, sent a dish of Trophy Tomatoes, to which
a letter of thanks was awarded. Mr R. Gilbert, of The Gardens, Barghlej7,
sent a brace of Taylor's Montrose Cucumber Dispatch, to which a cultural
commendation was awarded ; also Cabbage Broccoli, which was awarded a
first-class certificate for its high quality when cooked, the flavour being quite
new in the Cabbage tribe.

Collections of fruit were received from Mr Gardiner, The Gardens, Eatington
Park, Stratford-on-Avon, consisting of forty varieties of Apples and six of
Pears, to which a silver Knightian medal was awarded ; from Mr Killick,

46 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

Langley, Kent, thirty varieties of Apples, to which a cultural commendation
was awarded.

Floral Committee.— Mr C. Noble in the chair. The entrance vestibule
was completely tilled with Messrs Lee's imposing collection of "hardy winter
bedding-plants." Some of the "plants " were pyramidal variegated Hollies 10
to 15 feet high, and standard Hollies, standard and pyramid Bays, Yews in
great variety and of various sizes, some of them drooping, some pyramids, some
table-shaped, some cones, some vase-shaped, a few of the common being grafted
with variegated kinds, thus having golden heads. Some trees of the Golden
Spruce showed to advantage ; also Cryptomerias in various sizes, with smaller
specimens of Taxodiums, Junipers, Thujas, Cupressuses, Retinosporas, and
suchlike elegant Conifers, amongst which were arranged, with great effect,
standards of Euonymuses and Ivies of the Arborea section — some green, others
variegated. These were on stems from 2 to 4 feet in height, with compact
heads about a foot in diameter, and were extremely ornamental. The collec-
tion was further relieved by Yuccas and several plants of Gynerium compactum
elegaus. Along the sides of the groups were flat baskets artistically filled writh
dwarf plants, such as concentric lines of Retinosporas and Euonymuses, panels
of plants of the same kinds ; and some baskets contained masses of such plants
as Ligmtrum sinensis tricolor and Euonymuses edged with Box. This exten-
sive collection embraced upwards of eighty species and varieties of shrubs
and Conifers, all of which were in excellent condition, and attracted, and de-
servedly so, great attention. A gold medal was recommended for the collection.

Mr Bull was awarded a first-class certificate for Laelia anceps alba, a charm-
ing acquisition that will find its way into all collections. Mr Heims, gar-
dener to F. A. Phillbrick, Esq., Q.C., Avenue Road, Regent's Park, was
worthily and unanimously awarded a cultural commendation for a fine example
of Sophronites grandiflora. It was growing on cork, and had upwards of
fifty brilliant flowers. The same exhibitor sent Odontoglossum Warscewiczii,
which somewhat resembles a pale variety of 0. vexillarium. Messrs Hugh
Low & Co., Clapton, were awarded a botanical commendation for Masde-
vallia triglochin, a tiny plant with leaves an inch long and one - eighth
of an inch in diameter, and equally miniature flowers. Mr Green, gar-
dener to Sir G. Macleay, Bart., Pendell Court, Bletchingley, was awarded
botanical certificates for Billbergia nutans, with small drooping red flowers
margined with purple ; and Grevillea fasciculata. Mr Green also exhibited
iEchmea Weilbeckii.

Mr Gilbert, The Gardens, Burghley, Stamford, sent plants of his double
Primulas with large flowers in various colours and tine foliage. Most of them
had been previously certificated, and only one variety, Earl of Beaconsfield,
was honoured on this occasion with a certificate. The flowers are very
double, 1| inch in diameter; petals slightly fimbricated ; colour bright rosy
magenta. The long stems of the individual flowers of these varieties render
the pips valuable for bouquets. A vote of thanks was awarded for the col-
lection. Mr Smith, Ealing Dean Nursery, Ealing, exhibited about fifty
plants of Cyclamens representing an excellent strain, the flowers being very
fine, the whites pure, and the dark varieties rich, especially those ruby-crim-
son in colour. A vote of thanks was awarded. Mr Hepper, gardener to C. 0.
Led ward, Esq., The Elms, Acton, sent well-grown plants of Solanum pendu-
lum, which resembles the old S. capsicastrum, but the leaves have distinct
light midribs. It is an elegant variety. A vote of thanks was awarded.

Mr Cannell exhibited stands of cut Zonal Pelargoniums of wonderful excel-

iS79-

CALENDAR.

47

lence. The varieties were Henry Jacoby, Lizzie Brookes, Belle of Surrey, S.
Holden, Dr Denny, D. Thomson, M. Panton, The Shah, Mrs Leavers, Mr
Pollett, Kienzi, Circulator, Kleon, Bemus, Mr Chandler, A. Henderson,
Titania, Louisa, Miss Gladstone, Mrs Whiteley, Col. Seeley, Lady Sheffield,
and Mr Palmer, — all represented by grand trusses, and producing a rich effect.
A'stand containing twenty-four trusses of "White Vesuvius was charming, and
almost equally so was Salmon Vesuvius ; the striped variety was also well
exhibited. It is noteworthy that one pip of White Vesuvius had two bright
scarlet petals, the other three being pure white. This was the finest collection
of its kind that has ever been seen in December ; in fact it would have done
credit to any man at any season. A vote of thanks was worthily awarded.

Mr George sent a seedling Abutilon Bose Queen, but it was passed by the
Committee. Mr Thomson, Crystal Palace, sent fruiting sprays of Eucalyptus
globulus. Mr Noble exhibited Thujopsis borealis aureo-variegata ; and an
ornamental tin plant-suspender was exhibited by Mr Peter Selby, 15| Nuttall
Hill, Birmingham.

The thanks of the Committees were tendered to the chairmen and the Sec-
retary, and the last of a successful series of gatherings during 1878 closed
with a mutual interchange of courtesies. Many of the meetings have been
rendered additionally instructive by elucidatory remarks by Mr Jennings, the
Assistant Secretary, and other gentlemen ; and Mr Barron and his assistants
have exercised their usual assiduity in having the arrangements as complete as
possible, and convenient to all. — Journal of Horticulture.

©aUn&ar*

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Frosty weather in January, clear and
dry, is what is most desired both for
the benefit of field and garden, and all
who have their vacant soil thrown up
in ridges will in most cases have
reason to be thankful for the cul-
tural advantage of the pulverising
frost. But it is often experienced
in damp localities that soil of a tena-
cious character is better adapted for
seed sowing and planting when turn-
ed up as it is wanted. These circum-
stances are peculiar, and can only be
ascertained by personal observation.
Trenching should be done to some
extent every year. In very heavy
wet land it may be done as often
as circumstances will allow. A well-
trenched garden seldom suffers either
from wet or drought. Drainage is,
however, always an important matter,
and in extra severe winters the well-
drained land will show many advan-
tages over that which retains the
moisture. If snow should be lying on

the ground it would be well not to
dig or trench it down, except the soil
should be very shallow, gravelly, and
poor : in such cases we never saw snow
do any harm. When land is wet and
thawing, it should not be trodden.
Manure may be wheeled to all spaces
which require enriching ; but that
work should not be done at random,
but some arrangement made for guid-
ing the operations of the coming
season, giving manure in proportion to
the poverty and shallowness of the
grouud, and according to the require-
ments of the crop to be grown on
the space. Decide on the extent of
ground required for each kind of
vegetable. Experience of the demand,
however, is the real guide : we would
say, have abundance of everything ;
crop closely and in quick succession,
and never have ground lying idle
when it can be under crop. Small
gardens in proportion to the demand
of a family require extra care in

4S

THE GARDENER.

[Jan.

cropping them, so that the supply is as
large as possible, and that there should
be no glut of one thing and scarcity of
another : change often, if only for the
sake of system. "Well-cultivated gar-
dens give no cause for fear of failure by
allowing one crop of the same species
to succeed the previous one. Trench-
ing is an effectual remedy for this ; but
as an example, we would not let a
crop of Carrots be grown where a crop
of the same root had been previously
destroyed by grubs or wire -worms.
"We would not give manure for Carrots,
Beet, or Parsnips, to the amount
that would be suitable for Cabbage.
Rank manure gives coarse, badly-
flavoured roots; poor dry land gives
tough, stringy produce ; ground deeply
trenched and well broken suits all
roots and tubers. If manure is very
rank, we prefer trenching it down in
quantity under the second spit ; but
rotted manure, mild and wholesome,
may be placed under the top spit.
Wlien ground will allow the neces-
sary "harrowing," manure should be
wheeled on vacant spaces and covered
with soil to prevent wasting of its
virtues : ridges a yard high, run
across the plots, answer well when it
is to be turned in at a future period.
Potatoes do well in ground which has
been thrown up into ridges, and some
fresh soil (turfy loam is excellent)
placed over the tubers when planted.
On tenacious land, where disease is
often an unwelcome visitor, rank
manure is productive of the evil,
especially when the Potatoes are late
kinds. The thawing of such vege-
tables as Celery should be of a gradual
character : leave the litter placed over
the plants as protection till the frost
is gone and the ground thawed.
Then the litter or fern used for pro-
tection may be removed. Laurel or
Spruce branches, in the absence of
better material, is useful as protec-
tion. Pieces stuck among early Peas
or Cauliflower plants act as a useful
protection : quick thawing is the
difficulty which tender vegetation
cannot easily stand against. There
should be stores of all kinds of hardy
roots under cover sufficient to the
demand during frosty weather ; or if
it is preferable to dig Horse Radish,
Parsnips, Jerusalem Artichokes, Chic-
ory, Scorzonera, Salsafy, or Potatoes
fresh out of the ground as they are
wanted, a covering of litter, half -rotten

leaves, fern, or other material should
be placed over the beds to keep frost
out of the ground.

The seed stores should now be over-
hauled, and those of value, new or
old, should be noted ; and when the
seed-list is made out, superfluous quan-
tity should be avoided. Old favourite
sorts should not be discarded for
others which may prove to be fine
only in name. A few novelties sent
out by respectable men should have
a trial. The store for seed should be
vermin - proof, well cleaned, and if
necessary to eradicate beetles, spiders,
&c, a fumigating of sulphur may be
made. In severe or wet weather
seeds of choice kinds saved during
the past season may be cleaned.
Stakes may be made, and all the
ordinary items attended to under
cover, which, when done, will do
much to facilitate labour during the
busy season.

If weather will allow, the present
season is a good one to prepare early
borders for choice early crops. Where
there are no borders under the shelter
of walls or other fences, it is a good
system to raise slopes facing the south,
and board them up behind, or leave
them as spans facing north and south :
for early crops the latter aspect is of
great advantage for early vegetables,
such as Horn Carrot (French Nantes are
favourites), Early Eadishes, Dutch Tur-
nips, Lettuce, Spinage for first crop,
Early Potatoes, or anything to come in
early. Peas and Beans may be sown
when weather will allow : a mixture
of wood - ashes with red - lead sprin-
kled over the seed will do much to
ward off the attacks of mice or rats.
Peas sown wide apart, to be staked in
due time, give shelter to other early
crops which may be sown between the
rows. Broad Beans or Spinach be-
tween the Peas answer well for pres-
ent crops. Peas of two or three kinds
may be sown in boxes with turfy soil
in the bottoms, and covered with
charcoal-dust, fine light soil, or old
Mushroom - dung. They may be
protected when frost appears, other-
wise all the light and air possible may
be given them. It is common to raise
first crops of Peas in pots, tiles, strips
of turf, and by other means, placing
the seed in moist heat till they have
grown into green foliage ; but when
never placed in heat at all, and grown
with all the light and air possible,

i879

CALENDAR.

49

they are more easily managed when
turned out. This applies to Broad
Beans and all other crops brought
forward for earliest supplies. Aspara-
gus may have manure placed over the
rows — that which is to be lifted
should be wTell protected. In low-
lying localities there is a danger of
destroying Asparagus by heavy close
coverings. Prepare leaves and man-
ure for beds by mixing them well
together, preparatory for forcing early
vegetables. Lettuce and Endive for
present use may be protected by hoops
and mats : a frame placed over a por-
tion is good protection. Pot Mint
and Tarragon, the forcing of Rhubarb,
Seakale, Chicory, and Potatoes may
have the same attention as recom-
mended last month, keeping up steady
supplies as demand requires. A small
mushroom-bed may be made often in
preference to large beds at long periods.
The frequent formation of small beds
is more likely to meet the supply regu-
lar and proportionate. Tomatoes may
be kept growing under all the light at
command, giving air whenever the

weather will allow it. Cold frosty
winds must be avoided. Those sup-
plying a few fruit must not be over-
watered, or kept in a close high tem-
perature : rotting at the collars often
happens when water has been used
freely at the surface, while the roots
at base of soil have been starved.
j Mustard, Cress, Thread Onions, and
j other small salads may have attention
I by sowing often, as formerly recom-
j mended. Always let them have airy
quarters with plenty of light for some
! days before they are sent in for use.
This gives flavour and crispness.
j Potatoes may be sprouted in gentle
I warmth preparatory for planting in
i the frames or pits. Those growing
in pots must not be coddled or kept
far from the light ; neither will they
stand cutting frosty winds. French
Beans may now be sown for succes-
sions every ten or twelve days. With-
hold the syringe when they are flower-
ing, and sow Carrots of Horn kinds on
mild hotbeds : sow Radishes between
the Carrots.

M. T.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — In order to have ripe Pines
in May and June, a number of the ear-
liest Queens that have been kept com-
paratively dry and cool for the last
ten weeks or more, and that are likely
to show fruit without making much
growth, should be placed in warm
quarters by the middle of the month.
Their pots should be plunged to the
rim in a bottom -heat that does not
exceed 95°, or fall below 85°, and
where the plants will get every blink
of sunshine. Presuming that, accord-
ing to former Calendars, these plants
have been kept at 60° at night, the
temperature should now be from 65°
to 70°, according as the weather is
mild or cold, with 10° more by day
before giving air. If the nights be
cold and the days bright, let the
temperature be regulated accordingly,
applying the minimum night and maxi-
mum day temperature. The plants,
having been kept dry at the root
for some time, should have a soak-
ing of water at 85°, and be kept
steadily moist. In cases where the
plants show any signs of continuing
to grow instead of fruiting, do not
give so much water. The atmosphere

should be moist, but rot to such an
extent as will cause drip to condense
on the roof of flattish pits and fall into
the centres of any of the plants. This
is generally a cold month, and it is
not advisable to increase the tempera-
tures of succession-pits. Be content
with 55° at night ; and when with sun
the day temperature rises above 70°,
give air for a short time, always shut-
ting up early, so as to make it unne-
cessary to fire so hard to keep the heat
up in the early part of the night.
With hard firing, both the atmo-
sphere and the soil must be watched,
and not allowed to become parchingly
dry, or the result may be that young
stock well rooted in small pots may
start into fruit instead of growth
when shifted the next and following
months. This is particularly appli-
cable to plants supplied with bottom -
heat from hot pipes. Beds of leaves
to receive those that will be shifted
a month or six weeks hence should
now be prepared ; so that any violent
heating may have subsided to a safe
point by the time the pots are plunged
in them. Sometime during the course
of this month get the soil to be used

50

THE GARDENER.

[Jan.

for potting next month prepared and
put into some dry place where it will
get warm by the time it is wanted : a
moderately light loam that has been
stacked eight or nine months, with all
the finer particles of soil shaken out of
it, is best, where the loam is of a heavy
nature. Mix pounded charcoal and
sand with it to keep it open. All
pits that can be covered with frigi-
domo or mats at night in severe
weather should be so dealt with ; it
not only saves fire, but is much better
for the plants : most especially is this
applicable to Pines now swelling off,
and that do not make much progress
at a lower temperature than 70°.

Vines. — What has just been said
about hard firing in the case of Pines
is applicable to Vines that have been
started a month or six weeks ago.
Avoid high night-temperatures, and
make the most of sun-heat by day.
Vines now bursting into leaf will make
weakly wood, with long joints and thin
yellowish leaves, if forced hard at
night when the nights are long and
cold. Fire-heat is a necessary evil,
but when accompanied with darkness
the evil is much aggravated. There-
fore let the chief of the firing be done
by day with light. Where Grapes
are wanted early, a night temperature
of 55° when cold, to be run up by day
to 70° or 80°, according to the aid
derived from sun, is sufficient. An
amount of moisture must be put into
the air to counteract the parching
effects of the fire-heat, but no more.
Avoid steaming from hot pipes as a
great evil. Stop the young growths
two joints beyond the best bunch, and
tie them down before their points
touch the glass ; but do not attempt
to bring them to the wires at once, or
they may break off. In thinning off
superfluous branches leave the most
compact and shortest -stemmed ones.
When the young growths are broken
about an inch, do not raise the night
temperature much, but take advan-
tage of sun-heat by day to make up
for the slower growth at night. A
succession -bouse maybe started by the
end of the month,; and as the days are
longer and the sun stronger, the start-
ing temperature may be a little in ad-
vance of that directed for early-started
vines. A night temperature of 55°,
with a rise of 10° or 15° with sun by
day, will not be too much, unless the
weather be severe and sunless, when

it may be regulated at 5° less. Where
there are only two vineries, the ear-
liest may be shut up by the end of
the month and the night temperature
kept from falling below 50°. See that
the inside borders are kept healthily
moist, and that outside ones are, to say
the least, well protected from frost and
cold winds. All Vines started before
the 1st of January should have their
roots in inside borders exclusively.
Prune all Vines from which the fruit
is cut, and dress the wounds with
styptic, to prevent their bleeding when
the sap rises. If there has been any
spider or thrip on them last season, re-
move all loose bark, scrub the Vines
well with soap and water, and then
dress with Simpson's Wash or Gish-
urst's Compound. Eegulate the tem-
perature of vineries where fruit is still
hanging from 45° to 50°, and give air
when fine, but shut up closely when
drizzly or foggy. In any houses where
most of the crop is cut, the remainder
may be bottled, and the Vines can then
be pruned and put ready for starting
at the proper time. Where sites are
being prepared for new Vine-borders,
let the drainage be through not less
than a foot of broken stones or bricks ;
and if the subsoil be a cold clay, the
foundation should be paved or con-
creted, with a good fall to a front main
drain, so as to make sure that water
can never become stagnant or the roots
get into bad soil.

Peaches. — Where early Peaches are
set and have cast their blossoms, the
night temperature may be advanced
to 50°, and to 55° by the end of the
month, with 5° to 10° more by day.
Syringe the trees every fine day, and
give more or less air daily. See that
the inside border does not become too
dry, especially that part of it about
the hot- water pipe. Disbud the young
growths by degrees, ultimately leaving
a strong bud at the base of each fruit-
bearing shoot and the leader. Where
the fruit has set in abundance, the
trees may be relieved at once of all
fruits that are malformed, and those
that are on the right, left, and north
sides of the shoots, but always leaving
plenty on which to "come and go."
Go over trees in bloom in the middle
of the day, and impregnate them
either by dispersing the pollen with a
fine brush or by a few raps of the hand
on the trellis. If the weather be
bright, they set equally well when the

iS7t>

NOTICES TO CORRESPONDENTS.

51

pollen is dispersed, with water applied
with a syringe, for the operation, so far
as the cultivator is concerned, is purely
a mechanical one. Shut up a succes-
sion-house, and keep the temperature
from falling below 45° during cold
nights, increasing the temperature to
50° by the time the bloom is opening.
All trees in later houses should now
be pruned and tied, the borders top-
dressed, and well watered if dry. In
the case of young trees planted last
year, avoid the too common practice
of cutting them back ; if the shoots are
ripening, leave them their whole length.
The furnishing of the tree with young
wood can easily be regulated by time-
ly and judicious disbudding, by which
so many canker - producing wounds
are avoided, and the trees increased
into size and a state of bearing in half
the time taken in the cutting -and -
slashing-back system. Where young
trees are to be planted or root-pruned,
lose no time in completing the opera-
tion, if not already done.

Figs. — Figs in pots started as di-
rected last month will be breaking into
growth, and should have the tempera-
ture advanced 5° ; and, as in the case
of early Vines, let the forcing be
chiefly done by day with sun. Keep
the atmosphere moist by syringing the
plants, the surface of the bed, and the
paths, taking care that they are never
allowed to become dry at the root.
Look over them at intervals, and rub
oft' superfluous buds ultimately, just
leaving enough to furnish the plants
without crowding. Figs grown in re-
stricted inside borders may be started
at the end of the month at 50° at night.
Give the border a thorough watering
if dry, and syringe the trees two or
three times daily.

Melons. — Sow for an early crop
about the middle of the month, in a
temperature of 70°. To prevent any
check from transplanting or "potting-
off," sow a few seeds in 4-inch pots

half filled with soil, and thin out the
plants to one in each pot. As soon as
they show the rough leaf, commence
to add to the surface of the soil till the
pot is nearly full. Pure loam is the
best soil to sow in. Keep them near
the glass in a light house, and give air
regularly to keep the plants stocky,
but beware of exposing to frosty cur-
rents of air.

Cucumbers. — Sow and treat the
young plants as directed for Melons.
Plants that have been bearing through
the winter will now be the better tor
being stimulated as the light increases.
A mulchiDg of old mushroom - bed
dung, and a little loam mixed with it,
is a good top-dressing for them ; and an
occasional watering with clear soot or
guano water puts colour and substance
into the foliage. Keep the tempera-
ture at from 65° to 70° at night, with
a rise of 10° by day. Increase the
moisture in the air as the light in-
creases. Should any signs of mildew
appear, use Speed's Eradicator, which
is the most instantaneous remedy for
mildew we ever used.

Strawberries in Pots. — Very early
plants will come into bloom this month,
and if much fire-heat is used, they will
not set well. 50° in cold, and 55° in
mild nights, ought not to be exceeded.
Do not expose the blossoms to currents
of cold air ; and if necessary, fix some
hexagon netting or perforated zinc over
the ventilating openings to prevent
such. Do not stand plants in saucers of
water ; and if anything be placed under
them, let it be cocoa - nut fibre or a
thin strip of turf. When set, raise
the temperature 5°, and run up the
house to 75° with sun-heat at shutting-
up time. Introduce more plants into
heat. Peach-houses shut up for forc-
ing are good places for them, if there is
not the convenience of a pit or house
that can be devoted exclusively to
Strawberries.

^atxctB to &oxxzs$oixbmiB.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in ' The Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper

52 THE GARDENER. [Jan. 1879.

only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not for
publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and address
of writer.

T. L.— You will find a paper on Tuberoses in our present issue, which, we
hope, will meet your case.

John Forbes. — Monocha>tum ensiferum, a beautiful greenhouse plant.

An Old Subscriber.— To ripen Vines, heat, light, and dry air are the
necessary agents, and not cold. Moderate frosts will not injure well-ripened
Vines, but our own practice is never to expose Vines to more than a few de-
grees.

J. H. — An article on Violets in pots for winter use will appear in our
next issue.

J. S. K. — No. 1, Euonymus latifolius ; No. 2, Euonymus japonicus ; No. 3,
Berberis, — but we cannot say which. To a great extent we are compelled to
guess-work in the case of specimens sent to us as you have sent yours. If
you will send again packed in a little damp moss, in a tin box that the post-
man cannot smash, we will be able to judge more correctly. Send larger
specimens.

C. S Your questions would require a whole treatise on Melon-culture to

do them justice. We prefer a half-span pit running east and west, with a bed
of soil about 3 feet wide, with two rows of pipes under it for bottom-heat, and
— for ripening Melons not earlier than August — 3 rows of 4-inch pipes for top-
heat. The pit should be high enough to give plenty of head-room without the
head coming in contact with the hanging fruit. Sow at the middle of May
and again in June. Try Golden Perfection and Dell's Hybrid.

J. K. — It is entirely impossible for us to state what breaks the leaves of
your Yucca, because they may get broken in many ways. A man, or some
animal, or the wind, may do it ; but from anything you tell us we cannot
guess which of them does it.

L' Allegro. — No. 5, Sericographis Ghiesbrechtiana. We cannot undertake
to name varieties of florist flowers.

A Lover of Flowers. — Almost any nurseryman can supply you with
Gynesiums. We never recommend nurserymen or tradesmen in these pages.
' Botanical Names for English Readers ' may, perhaps, suit your purpose, and
i Treasury of Botany. '

Co. Down. — At the office. I. & W. Rider, 14 Bartholomew Close, London,
or from any bookseller, price Is.

G. F. — The circumstances you describe must be the cause of your Grapes
shrivelling so very prematurely. The cold and wet paralyses their whole sys-
tem, and they are never properly ripened ; and Grapes not thoroughly rip-
ened cannot and never do keep long without shrivelling. Get rid^of the wet
thoroughly, and, other things being equal, your Grapes will ripen properly.
Allamanda Hendersonii is a very free bloomer, and will suit your purpose.

We will be glad to receive note of the lowest temperature registered by our
correspondent since December 1. On December 20 it was 28° below freez-
ing at Drumlanrig.

ERRATA.

At page 542 of last month's 'Gardener,' 24th line from the bottom of the
page, for " One could not but admire," read " One could not admire."

At page 543, 13th line from the top of the page, for "enormous plates,"
read "common plates."

At same page, 10th line from the top of the page, for " the Gladioli coming
from England," read "the best Gladioli," &c.

THE

GARDENER.

FEBRUARY 1879.

SELECTION" versus COLLECTION".

AST month we advocated the growing of very limited
selections instead of large collections of Apples, as
being much more likely — as a general rule — to produce
a greater abundance of fruit. The same rule, we are
convinced, applies to every other variety of fruit, from the Pine-
Apple to the Currant or Strawberry; and if this rule had been
more frequently followed, the supply of fruits would, in numerous
instances, have been much more satisfactory, and their culture to
no inconsiderable extent simplified. Nor are fruits the only occu-
pants of our gardens to which it would be well to apply the rule —
vegetables and flowers, to our mind, require its application quite as
urgently; always, of course, making the selections to suit the locality
and the wants of the family.

We have often looked with something like pity at the one, or it
may be, two or three vineries, into which have been crammed pell-
mell ten or a dozen varieties of Grapes, many of them decidedly
coarse and inferior ; and for the mere sake of having so many
varieties, the whole have to be trained much too closely together.
Four, or six at most, of the cream of our present numerous
varieties, allowed ample room, would yield a far more satisfactory
supply of fine Grapes than double that number of varieties. When
six of the cream of our Grapes are included in any extent of vineries,
on what point, we would ask, would a good judge of Grapes regret
the absence of any of the others 1 Would it not be well for horti-
cultural societies in offering prizes annually — as they have done for
some time now — for eight varieties of Grapes, to cut the number

E

54 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

down to six, and specify the sorts that would be admissible 1 True,
this might keep out our Syrians and Trebbianos, and others which
have no merit, comparatively speaking, either in quality or in their
culture. This might cause the exhibits to look less imposing to
the general public who visit horticultural exhibitions; but to merely
make the public stare should not by any means be either the alpha
or omega of shows. If anything comes within the legitimate scope
of horticultural societies, it certainly is to encourage the culture of
the finest, and not the coarsest, varieties, which latter are certainly
not the crucial test of skilful or meritorious Grape culture. It is
something like a shame to gull the public with monstrous bunches
of coarse Grapes instead of educating them by bringing merit before
them. We are certain that no Johnston, or Hunter, or Fowler, will
ever think of pinning his reputation to his monster bunches of
coarse sorts instead of to his fine Muscats and Hamburgs, &c.

These foregoing remarks apply with equal force to Pine-Apples,
Peaches, &c. When three, or four at most, of Pine-Apples are culti-
vated, we doubt if the addition of another variety more would im-
prove the selection in point of flavour and general usefulness. It
would only be a waste of space to refer to other fruits, beyond again
expressing our conviction that this rule applies to them all.

Turning to the Vegetable department, and taking, as illustrative
of what we are contending for, Peas, Cabbages, and Lettuces,
we have no hesitation in saying that in numerous instances one
half of the varieties cultivated would greatly improve the char-
acter of the supply, and simplify the matter of sowing, nam-
ing, &c. Gardeners who have practised for many years, and who
have the largest supplies to keep up, come to very much reduce their
catalogue of vegetables instead of extending it, and so far differ from
beginners and men of less experience.

Looking at flowers, of which there are many species or varieties,
our rule might in many cases be applied with rather a sweeping
hand. Take Ptoses as an instance. What a galaxy of names we
find, many of which differ from others more in name than anything
else, there being just a shade of colour and form of difference be-
tween many of them. Would it not be much the better way to
select the best and most useful of several, which have so little dif-
ference the one from the other 1 A selection of three or four dozen
of Hybrid Perpetuals, selected according to soil and climate, would
be much more satisfactory in hundreds of cases than double that
number.

We might run over the whole of Florist Flowers, Heaths, Azaleas,
Orchids, &c. and still be within the limits of the applicability of this

I879-] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 55

rule of moderate selections. To any grower who has a hobby or
yearning, and room for mere collections, we have nothing to say;
but to all who have a show and supply of flowers to produce for
given purposes, we would say, make comparatively small selections
and you will not regret it. It is the principle we act upon our-
selves, and find it much preferable to collections for the sake of
variety.

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

Although hot water circulating in pipes has been adopted and re-
cognised for many years past as the best system of warming plant-
houses, yet there exists at the present time, among hot-water engineers
and gardeners, considerable difference of opinion regarding the best
shape or form of boiler to employ in which to heat the water in the
first instance. And there is no doubt that among the different shapes
of boilers in use at present, the form of some is better calculated to
answer the purpose in view than that of others. It is not, however,
our intention in this paper to discuss the merits or demerits of any
particular kind or pattern of boiler, but to direct attention to one or
two matters in connection with the fitting up of a heating apparatus
that both engineers and gardeners are agreed upon as being essential
to a rapid circulation of the water in the pipes, whatever shape the
boiler may be. We allude to the practice of sinking the boiler below
the level of both the flow and return pipes, and giving the flows a
continuous ascent from the top of the boiler to their furthest points of
extension in the building or buildings to be heated. This method of
fixing up a hot-water apparatus has been so long adopted, and attended
with such an amount of success, that the soundness of the practice may
to some appear beyond dispute. Notwithstanding, we do not hesitate
to say that the circulation of the water in the pipes will be as rapid
with the bottom of the boiler one foot below the level of the return
pipes as it would be supposing the boiler was sunk several feet
deeper. And instead of a continuous ascent of the flow pipes through-
out their whole length being necessary, or in any way contributing to
the rax>idity of the circulation, this way of fixing them tends to
retard the process. If we succeed in showing that a continuous rise
in the flows hinders rather than accelerates circulation, the argument
in favour of placing the boiler so much below the general body of the
pipes will disappear, and the expense consequent upon excavating,
draining, and building a deep stokehole, will in many cases not need to
be incurred. Under certain circumstances, however, a deep stokehole
is a necessity, as, for instance, when the pipes in passing from the
boiler to the buildings to be heated have to cross under outside paths.
In this case, as well as in some others that could be mentioned, a deep

5G THE GARDENER. [Feb.

stokehole is unavoidable. Before stating the grounds on which we
say that a continuous rise in the flow-pipes is a hindrance rather than
otherwise to the circulation of the water, let us inquire the reason why
circulation takes place under any method of fitting up the apparatus.
The primary reason why water circulates or moves in the pipes is in
consequence of the minute and separate particles of which it consists
being unable to impart heat the one to the other. If the particles of
water were capable of transmitting heat to each other in the same way
as the particles of which solid bodies are composed are, it would be im-
possible, either through the application of heat to the boiler or by any
method of fitting up the apparatus, for circulation to take place in the
pipes. We would also here observe that in consequence of the inability
of the particles of which water consists to communicate heat to one
another, every particle of the body of water contained in the appara-
tus at the time of lighting the fire must come in contact with the
point on which the latter acts, and again in contact with a colder point
in the apparatus, before it can contribute to the general warmth of the
structure to be heated. The immediate reason, however, why the
water circulates in the pipes is because of the inequality of the specific
gravity of the particles at different points of the apparatus, the in-
equality being caused by the application of heat to a particular point,
while the water is being cooled at all the other points.

Perhaps our young readers will better understand what is here
meant if we say that when a fire is lighted in the furnace beneath the
boiler, the material of which the latter is made transmits the heat
generated by the combustion of the fuel to the particles of the water
in direct contact with the inner surface of the metal, thereby raising
their temperature, in consequence of which they expand and become of
less specific gravity, or lighter in proportion to their size than the colder
particles above them. Here the law of gravitation as it applies to
liquids comes into operation, and in obedience thereto the heated or
lighter particles ascend, their place being instantly occupied by descend-
ing colder or heavier particles ; and this ascending of the lighter and
descending of the colder particles is what is called circulation of the
water, and goes on until the whole body of water contained in the
apparatus becomes of the same temperature, — an occurrence not likely
to take place so long as the fire is kept burning, unless the boiler
power is very much in excess of the work it has to perform.

We will now endeavour to show why the rise in the flow hinders
rather than accelerates the circulation of the water in the pipes. A
hot -water apparatus fitted up on correct principles will have its
highest point of action occupied by the hottest, and its lowest
by the coldest, volume of water contained in the apparatus, the inter-
vening points being occupied by volumes gradually descending in the
scale of temperature, as they recede from the former towards the latter
point. Now, when the flow-pipes gradually ascend from the highest

1879.] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 57

point of the boiler, throughout the structures to be heated, it is impos-
sible for the hottest volume of water contained in the apparatus to
occupy the highest point of the latter, when heat is applied to the
boiler. The reason for this is plain : as soon as the fire acts on the
boiler, the particles of water in contact with its inner surface bound
upwards, continuing to do so until they come in .contact with the inner
surface of the upper side of the flow-pipes. Here the particles imme-
diately part with a portion of their heat, and consequently become
of greater specific gravity than they were at the time of starting on
their upward course, and would now commence to descend towards
the point from which they started, but that they are still lighter than
the particles composing the body of cold water contained in the flows
at the time of setting the fire agoing : hence the partially cooled par-
ticles proceed along between the colder body of water and the inner
surface of the upper side of the flows, continuing to do so until the
cold water has found its way to the boilers in a contrary direction.
Thus, to begin with, we have two bodies of water of different degrees of
temperature moving in opposite directions in the same pipe, and at the
same time. This fact hot-water engineers admit, but tell us that as
soon as all the water in the flow-pipes becomes of equal temperature
the process will cease ; and no doubt it would, providing it were possible
for all the water in the flows to become of an equal temperature. This,
however, cannot occur in an apparatus of any great extent so long as
combustion takes place below the boiler; and for this reason the water,
as it travels from the hottest towards the coldest point of the appar-
atus, is continually parting with its heat, and the coldest particles in
the volume of water at any given point of the apparatus will occupy
the lowest place ; consequently the coldest particles, throughout the
length of the pipes, will rest on the inner surface of their under side,
and as the inner surface of the under side of the flows descend in the
direction of the top of the boiler, the coldest or heaviest particles of
the water contained in them will roll or gravitate down the inclined
plane, just as the coldest or heaviest particles did at the time of
starting the fire under the boiler. On these grounds we say that a
continuous rise in the flow-pipes is a hindrance rather than otherwise
to the circulation of the water. Therefore, the flow-pipes of a properly
adjusted hot-water apparatus should be carried to the highest point of
action in the structures to be heated as soon after they leave the boiler
as the general arrangements of the structures and the position of the
boiler in relation thereto will admit, and from this point the pipes
should gradually descend until they connect with the boiler again at
its lowest point. Thus the heated water, when it leaves the boiler,
cannot return when it becomes colder except by the legitimate route
of travelling through the whole length of the pipes, and entering at
the lowest point of action of the apparatus. J. Hammond.

Brayton Hall.

58 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

FORCING AND FUEL.

To the forcing gardener the past two months have been both heart and
head aching, heartaching because of the heavy coal bill which, week
after week, is running up, and then "per contra/' the serious reflection,
what is the result going to be 1 The probable result will be capable of
close calculation by a few more weeks ; early Grapes and Peaches to a
certainty even now. But what will each Peach have cost, and what
will be the paying price of each pound of Grapes % These are ques-
tions which weigh on the heart of many a gardener, for employers will
often ask the pertinent question, What have the coals been burned for 1
These two months have also been headaching because of the heavy
balance between a temperature of 60° in houses, and 20°, or even 10°
out-doors, with sunless skies, and consequent etiolation of all active
vegetation, anxieties of setting, and thinning, and thrips — anxieties by
night and day.

Once on a time early Grapes, Peaches, or Strawberries from one's
own hothouses in May was an achievement, a sort of triumph, a rare
thing indeed, and he was a happy and successful man who accomplished
the feat ; the forcing of fruits was then the luxury of labour, an ele-
gant pastime, and everybody was pleased because the garden was not
pressed into the category of life's necessities. But in these latter days
no gardener or employer dreams of forcing fruits or flowers merely for
the pleasure of the thing, and ripe Grapes, Strawberries, or Peaches
in March are no achievement at all ; but the man who undertakes those
duties and fails, is himself a failure, and a useless fellow. The gardener
who wishes to make himself a reputation must do the impossible, or what
is next to it. Early Grapes in January have long ago been achieved, now
Strawberries all the year round seems rising above the practical horizon.
The first pound of tea was a royal luxury, now it is the pauper's neces-
sity of life. Franklin amused himself by fetching lightning from the
clouds with a bit of wet cord, now lightning itself has become a neces-
sity of our lives ; we now amuse ourselves with " phones " of various
sorts, as the great American did with his string, but by-and-by some
enterprising firm will be turning the thunder into a necessity. Forc-
ing-houses have apparently reached their climax, and must be super-
seded ; they have served their day and purpose by bringing a coveted
and vastly distant climate and its products to our doors, now the dis-
tance has been annihilated, we can easily go to the climate and fetch
its products. Shall we continue to keep zoological gardens and botanic
gardens, the necessity for which seems to be vanishing, or shall we
spend our holidays among the beasts and plants in their native habi-
tats 1 — it really seems as if it were coming to that. Already we are
giving up the cultivation of the Pine-Apple, and really, with all those
heaps of red-cheeked Baldwins and yellow Newtown Pippins in our street
windows, we may economically give up our orchards. The bulk of

i879-] FORCING AND FUEL. 59

forced Grapes in the London market comes from the Channel Islands,
where the heat of the sun is found to be cheaper than coal, which
points the possibility of flooding our markets with the best Grapes
from the south of France, and it only awaits an enterprising practical be-
ginning to open the way, just as the American meat question has been
solved. Who will say that we may not yet have ship-loads of American
Peaches poured into our markets, like Bananas, or Mackerel from Kin-
sale, equally perishable 1 Till then, however, our forcing must go on,
since it has descended to a matter of business, in the most economical
manner possible. We have to consider first how coals are to be saved,
and second, how to realise the greatest possible return. Now in the
matter of economy of fuel, in these winter days, there will be some-
thing like fourteen hours of darkness, when the fire has all the duty to
perform in the shape of keeping up temperature ; during those fourteen
hours the whole of the glass of the forcing-house may be covered with
some protecting material, such as mats or canvas ; as a little additional
darkness is of no moment, this will conserve the indoor temperature
enormously, and consequently economise fuel. In forcing-houses no
more glass should be used in their construction than is absolutely neces-
sary ; and fronts and ends may sometimes be matted up permanently
in winter with advantage. Economy of fuel is much in the hands of
the stoker — he should be no sluggard in the morning ; fires should be
stirred long before sunrise, to anticipate and assist the coming light
and sunshine ; by day it will generally be sufficient, with no additional
fuel, if by managing the furnace the heat is prevented from escaping
by the chimney.

But great as is the importance of economising fuel, the best economy
is, after all, a good and successful crop. Half a crop, or no crop, with
only the trees to be kept in health for another essay, is a poor return
for coals and labour. Given the subject to be forced, in good condition,
the most essential matter is to drive cautiously. When one starts to
drive a long journey, to get quickly and safely to the end of it the
horse must not be put to his full speed at the beginning, neither must
he be left to his own natural walking pace, but with a gentle control of
the reins, keeping him well in hand, using the whip judiciously, and
using up his remaining pace at the finish. The forcing of fruits are just
something after the same analogy ; if you wish to get there in April
with your Grapes, begin the journey quietly in November — a month later
will do for Peaches— but at all times, especially at beginning and mid
journey, spare the energies of the trees, drive steadily, avoiding fits and
starts and over-excitement,— it is the rock the inexperienced often split
upon in the anxiety to get there. A weak horse will pull you through
with careful driving ; the strong may do the same, in spite of misman-
agement, when the weak would break down at once. Again, let the
load be no greater than your horse or tree can carry ; overloading, or the
last straw, breaks the camel's back.

60 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

It does not need to be forgotten that the real secret of successful
forcing lies in the previous management of the trees or plants ; if the
crop is not in them, no forcing, however cautiously managed, can fetch
it out of them. This is, however, a matter for consideration when the
forcing season has departed. The Squire's Gardener.

HARDY FRUITS.

Wherever pruning has not been finished — and in many cases it was
almost impossible to finish the work, as frost set in so early and was
continuous — but for the sake of getting the trees finished, all kinds
may now be cut to the necessary extent. Peaches and Nectarines are
generally left to the end of the month, or March. Planting was cut
short also by frost. We have at present some bundles of trees in soil
by the roots, and protected with litter till ground is ready ; but we
prefer waiting till ground is dry enough and warmed by the sun, should
it come in time. In some forest-planting we have the same considera-
tion as with fruit-trees. Pruning of Apples in orchards may be done
as early as possible. In the great fruit districts, there are men who
are called pruners, some of whom do their work well ; but too often
the trees — all and sundry— receive the same amount of lopping. For
Standards, open centres, and a total absence of crossing branches, are
two important points : if ail is right, there will be no dead wood to
cut out. Where there is dead wood and canker, it is a true sign
the roots are in bad soil, far from the surface. Lifting or getting
these feeders out of the unhealthy soil is the only remedy. We
would do it this season, late as it is, rather than have the evil
increase by another season's delay. Dressing from the surface
may be done with impunity : decoying the roots upwards to sun
and air. All loose shoots, if such are to be found, should be cut
in to form spurs. Cordons, whether on wires or along fences,
simply require shortening back of the previous season's shoots ;
when they are very fruitful they require little manipulation. Some
of the best fruit we have seen have been on Cordons by the edges
of walks and borders; but "management" the whole season through
has much to do with it. Bush-trees are easily managed. Cutting
in as one would Currants, and keeping these dwarf trees about
4 feet high, and about 6 feet apart, is a very interesting sight ; and
great quantities may often be taken off a small piece of ground. Such
Liliputian growth is more to give interest to amateurs who wish to get
a good knowledge of the kinds. Apples may be trained on fences or
buildings, either horizontally or perpendicularly, as is generally done
with red and white Currants when they are to be netted up. What
applies to Apples is generally suitable to Pears. The latter are more

1879.] HARDY FRUITS. 61

ready to form natural spurs, which are the best, and most likely to
last longer than those cut in with the knife. The finer kinds of
Pears are less hardy than Apples, and do little without the aid of a
wall, except in the more southern districts. Training on walls is an
operation which is attended with good results when well done, and the
roots kept healthy and near the surface. All the training and knife-
work possible will never make fruitful trees when the roots are allowed
to go down — away from sun and air. The spurs growing out from the
walls may be cut off, and those growing on each side of the branch
should be left ; and they should never be allowed to become crowded.
In northern districts the spurs should have the full benefit of the wall.
The difference we have noticed by the close system is very remarkable.
On walls many systems of training may be practised with good results.
Horizontal, or taking shoots at right angles, and each placed about two
or three bricks wide, is the system which gives least labour, and looks
very neat. Fan-training is simply extending the branches to a given
distance formed as a fan. They start close to the main stem of the
tree, gradually widening, so that at the extreme points they may stand
a foot or more apart. We often have seen these shoots left a few inches
apart ; and the cultivators have wondered how they, year after year,
show profusion of bloom, and never bear (scarcely) any fruit. The reply
is simple enough : the fruit-buds are always so crowded by foliage up
to late in the autumn, that they never ripen, and are consequently un-
prepared to fertilise their blossoms when they open. Let the roots of
such trees have the influence of sun and air to form fibres, and every
alternate branch cut out, and we have no fear of fruiting. We once
had the charge of a splendid wall of trees, which were all loaded
every year, many seasons running. They were got into fine shape
and size by a skilful predecessor; and we lifted them piecemeal,
mulched the surface with good manure, cut off long spurs, tied others
close to the wall, and the result was a great change of fruit, both in
appearance and quality. It is useless to suppose that attention to
these items once is to be a permanent success. They must be examined
yearly, and receive what is to keep them healthy and in bearing condi-
tion.

Plums, like Pears, can be trained in any form, but they are very often
found fan-shaped ; but seldom are these or any stone-fruits found
well trained (even where they are in healthy bearing condition), but
spread over the walls to cover the space without any proper system.
We prefer laying them out similiar to Pears, with leading shoots
from the trunk to the full extent, with short side shoots and natural
spurs from base to top. The centres are cut back to about half
the length of the side shoots to give the necessary branches to fill up
the whole tree ; but it is long since we discontinued cutting back so
closely. A tree when at its full size should bear fruit to the base —
the two lower branches being horizontal, about a foot from the ground.

62 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

Pyramid Plums may be pruned and treated as Apples and Pears ; but
as with all stone-fruits, they like very firm soil and plenty of lime or
chalk in it. Pruning should be mostly done during the growing sea-
son : little should be left till winter ; but dead spurs and those coming
out from the walls should be cut off, and old shoots getting past use
should be replaced by young growths. Plums trained upright or
horizontal form may be spurred like Pears, every season renewing
some exhausted portion of the tree. Cherries are often liable to
canker ; and they are the worst of trees to cure of the malady. They
do not lift so easily ; it is best to watch them from their very early
stages, working in lime-rubbish to the soil near the roots. They must be
well cut back in their centres, as it is difficult to get wood to fill up a
tree evenly. They may be managed easily on the close spur system.
Standard Cherries bear abundantly in some localities, but it is often
difficult to preserve the fruit from birds. In the Cherry orchards which
supply London Market, powder and shot are freely used, and the
" pickers " go over the trees, taking the fruit as they ripen. Cherries
grown on walls are high-class fruits compared with Standards. Morello
and Kentish Cherries should have extra firm soil, strong, and free
from manure. They bear on the young wood formed the previous
season ; cutting the shoots in to form spurs does not answer well :
if natural spurs are formed they are fruitful. The wood should be short-
jointed and firm, whether on Standard trees or those trained to walls
and fences. It is a mistake to suppose that a north wall is essential
for these. The best we have seen were on the front of a house among
other buildings : they are, however, often very fine on north walls.
Apricots are often fickle to deal with : as one expects them about
their best they often die off piecemeal — sometimes the half of
the tree at a time. When planting, the subsoil should be examined ;
if it is cold and unhealthy, a layer of concrete should be placed
over the soil under the roots, then a layer of brick and lime-rubbish.
The trees in most situations should be planted high. When gross
saPPy growth is observed in the growing season, these should be
topped as they grow ; lifting the roots in due time. The pruning
may be performed as recommended for Plums. Peaches and Nectarines
may remain untied till March, keeping the bearing-shoots from
the walls — keeping these late has much to do with their success.
All trees should be free from moss, American blight, scale, or any other
insects : a washing with Gishurst compound, using a brush, may be
necessary. Moss may be scraped off and the bark coated with lime.
Trees about being planted should have wide holes, good loam, and
proper mulching for the roots. Rasps, Currants, and Gooseberries
should be planted in deep, well-manured soil ; the first named in a
cool position. M. T.

1879.] CARNATIONS, PICOTEES, AND PINKS. 63

CARNATIONS, PICOTEES, AND PINKS.

Some months ago, a correspondent, a lover of these sweet plants, whose
efforts at their cultivation had not been rewarded with desired success,
asked me to write an article on their cultivation in ' The Gardener ' ;
and as I find the subject has not lately been treated of in these pages,
I the more readily accede to the request.

Soil. — Perhaps the most important matter in the successful cultiva-
tion of these plants consists in having a properly prepared compost for
growing them. The finest plants, yielding the most satisfactory crops
of bloom I ever remember seeing, were grown in rather heavy turfy
loam that was stored, but not required, for a vinery border. It was
stacked in ridges, with one-fourth its own bulk of clean horse-droppings,
and once, during frosty weather, thoroughly saturated with cow-urine.
The soil on the sites of the intended beds (a heavy clay) was removed to
the depth of 2^ feet, and some lime-rubbish put in the bottom to secure
thorough drainage; for although these plants thrive best in a cool, moist
soil, stagnant water is very injurious to them. When the soil was placed
in the beds, a very little leaf-mould was mixed with it, and the plants
planted, 15 inches apart, about the end of March — and they did splen-
didly. I have also seen them do well on the same soil when the under
layers of the clay were burnt and mixed with the best of the natural
soil, with the addition of good, well-decayed stable-yard manure. In
light soils it is advisable to procure some heavy soil for the purpose of
giving it more body ; for although the plants thrive tolerably well in
light soil if in fair condition — more especially Pinks — yet a somewhat
heavy soil gives flowers of greater size and substance.

After the plants have begun to throw up the flower-stems, they will
require to be tied to neat stakes to prevent them from being blown
over by wind when they are coming into flower ; for when this hap-
pens, not only are the flowers spoilt, but the plants are injured into
the bargain. If the blooms be wanted for exhibition, a little manure-
water, given while the stems are running up, but withheld before the
flowers open, will assist them greatly. If too strong, or if applied too
late, it may cause the colours to "run." To produce the very finest
blooms, remove all the flower-buds except the main ones. To insure
the bloom opening regularly, it may be necessary to tie the calyx with
a bit of matting, and to slit it with a thin sharp knife, when one side
bursts before the other. Shading from the hot mid-day sun, and from
dashing rain, will secure flowers in the greatest perfection for the
greatest possible time.

Propagation. — They are easily propagated by cuttings ; but I prefer
layers. If cuttings are taken, July, or early in August, is the proper
time ; and moist weather is to be preferred. The cuttings should be
put in a shady place, in light soil, with a dash of sand in it, covered
with a hand-glass, and properly attended to with water, so that they

G4 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

are not allowed to shrivel. But cuttings never make so robust plants
as layers ; and therefore layers are recommended. The way to layer
them is to scrape away the soil to the depth of a couple of inches round
the old plant, and to mix the displaced earth with some leaf-mould
and a little sharp sand. Then select suitable shoots, strip the leaves
from the part of the stem to be buried in the soil ; and then, with a
sharp knife, enter the shoot half-an-inch below the joint which is in-
tended to be the base of the new plant, and run it up right through the
centre of the layer, an inch, or an inch and a half beyond it, removing
the lower half-inch of the "tongue " just below the joint from which
the roots most readily proceed. When all the shoots of a plant are
thus prepared, fill in the little hollow with some of the prepared soil,
and set the layers upright in it, fastening them in their places with
hooked pegs, and then cover in with the remainder of the soil.

Watering in dry weather is necessary ; for if the weather prove very
dry, no roots will be emitted. In October, these will require to be
lifted and placed in some sheltered place, where a little protection can
be given. In dry soils, I have often seen them keep at the bottom of
a south wall, or under hand-glasses, very well ; but in heavy soils they
are apt to rot off in such quarters, and slugs and snails often eat them
up wholesale ; therefore I recommend that they be kept, during winter,
in a cold frame. My practice has been to put 2 inches of rough stones,
or clinkers from the furnaces, in the bottom of the frame, and over this
4 inches of ashes, placing 6 inches of light loam, mixed with some leaf-
mould, and a little sand sprinkled over the surface ; and by this means
they winter in good condition. A word of warning here to amateurs.
The frame is only for keeping them dry. If they are kept close they
will grow ; and the growth made during the dark days of winter can-
not stand damp, frost, or even hot sun. So give air night and day at
top and bottom in all weathers, never closing the frames unless the
plants are safely frozen up ; and then the light may be put close down.

Seedlings. — To those who have to supply large quantities of flowers,
which are more appreciated when they are sweet smelling, I can strongly
recommend seedlings. They flower much more profusely than the fine-
named kinds, and are of very much greater strength. Seedling Carna-
tions and Picotees flower on until the frost stops them ; and some of
our old plants are of a size, and have yielded a supply of cut-flowers
quite unapproached by the fine-named kinds. True, seedlings are not
so good from a florist's point of view ; but if got from a good strain,
they are equally useful for cut-blooms, and I think they are sweeter
scented. At any rate, they do not require half so much trouble,
either in growing or in wintering, and they are much better fitted for
hundreds of gardeners who have often to grow, not the finest, but
what will keep the supply equal to the demand. Seed can be sown
during April in cold well aired frames, where the soil is heavy and
slugs abound; otherwise a sheltered border will do very well. When

1879.] PREPARING FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 65

large enough, they can be pricked out at suitable distances, and finally-
put into permanent quarters in August or September, or during March
the following spring. If well grown, they will bloom well the first
season, but much better the second, when they yield an enormous
amount of bloom for cutting. The mixed herbaceous border is a good
place for them ; and they will increase in size for some years if the soil
be suitable. A. H.

PREPARING FOR. THE FLOWER- GARDEN.

No time should now be lost in making final arrangements as to
the mode of planting the beds for the ensuing season. There
is much forethought called for, even in the smallest system of
flower-beds — probably more proportionately than in those of
large extent. Of course, a " hit " in the method of planting may
occasionally be made where no forethought is exercised ; but at the
same time, it may be safely affirmed, that it requires much thought
and mental digesting of the matter to be successful year after year in
the planting of a series of beds and borders which shall at the same
time present novelty over the arrangements of previous years, com-
bined with an average degree of excellence in the arrangements.
Having got the mode of planting arranged, the stock of bedding-
plants should also be made note of just now, and in the case of any
kinds likely to be short in numbers, immediate steps taken to work
up a sufficient supply for the inevitable bedding-out season. I find
an abundant stock of the various plants required at that particular
season a most important factor in getting along with the work sweetly
and expeditiously. A surplus margin of five to ten per cent of plants
allows a sufficient number to come and go with in planting ; and
with such an excess over the number required, it will be patent to
any one that, with a previously-arranged plan, the entire system of
beds can be filled in detail without a hitch occurring. Where there is,
therefore, any likelihood of the stock of Lobelias, Iresines, Verbenas,
and even Pelargoniums, or of other plants which can be propagated now,
being deficient in number at the bedding-out season, a batch of cut-
tings ought to be struck without any delay. This is an easy enough
matter where proper means can be had for the purpose ; but it too
often occurs that the very slight accommodation required is as diffi-
cult to come at as if it were something calling for an extraordinary
expenditure. At this season we find a bed of dung and leaves of very
great value for various purposes ; but the bed is thoroughly pro-
tected from all influences which can abstract its heat or render its
heating power nugatory. An exposed hotbed with frame for the

66 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

next six weeks requires the command of a very large supply of fresh
material to keep it in a suitable condition for striking cuttings ;
whereas a bed introduced into a pit, if in the first place properly
managed, continues a valuable aid for weeks without further addi-
tions. A batch of cuttings struck in such a " make-shift" propagat-
ing-pit will require, when " boxed-off," to be freely started into
growth in the same medium before being drafted into the structures
commonly at command for growing on bedding-plants. If properly
managed, these early-struck plants yield a large supply of the very
best cuttings later on. Verbenas, more especially, require to be
treated well when struck thus early. If these are not grown on
quickly in a strong root-medium, and a warm, airy medium atmo-
spherically, so that a stubby, clean growth is induced, they will prove
of little use for supplying cuttings. Above all points, make sure of
a sound under-structure — plenty of roots. So with Pelargoniums ;
where the supply of these is likely to be insufficient, as only too pro-
bably they will be in many gardens this spring, a batch, of cuttings
should be immediately put in to strike. I use very small pots for these
thus early — something like half an ounce of compost being sufficient for
one pot. The compost used is half loam, half sand. The operation
of inserting the cuttings is proceeded with very rapidly. A number
of pots are placed side by side closely on the potting-bench ; a spade-
ful of the compost is then shaken over them, sufficient in quantity to
have each pot heaped up ; the cuttings are then quickly inserted
singly into the pots, pressing each in firmly with the two thumbs.
The soil is kept moist ; and when placed in a mild stove-temperature,
roots are emitted in a comparatively short time. Our entire stock
of young plants of Mrs Pollock — a favourite here — and Golden
Chain, probably the best of yellow-leaved Pelargoniums, are propa-
gated thus. Flowering kinds do equally well, provided they are
not allowed to become pot-bound, but potted on into 4 or 5 inch
pots, and encouraged to fill these with roots. These will flower just
as freely as autumn-struck cuttings ; but if there should be any fear
on that score, the pots may be plunged deeply in the beds, so as to
be counteractive of overmuch leaf-growth. In many ways the Ger-
anium is pre-eminent amongst flowering bedding-plants : they are
compact, massive, brilliant or soft, but always refined. Wherever
Pelargoniums succeed, they ought to maintain a prominent position
in the flower-garden, and all other flowering plants subordinated, as
a rule, to them.

There are certain foliage plants of great value in particular posi-
tions which ought to be this month propagated from seed. In the
case of all those just to be mentioned, an early start is a simple en-

i879-] PREPARING FOR THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 67

cessity to secure plants of an effective size throughout the summer.
The most graceful and generally useful of those foliage plants which
may be annually raised from seed is Acacia lophantha, a species of
that extensive genus sometimes used for decorative purposes in-
doors. It grows very rapidly planted out in good soil, and is
hardy enough to stand autumn frosts. This, as also the other plants
noted below, is raised in boxes, freely drained, as the young seed-
lings are not potted off until they have made a good start, the com-
post being open and rich. The seeds are steeped for several hours in
hot water — long enough to soften the outer casing — and at the proper
stage pressed thinly into the soil, just sufficiently deep to have the
seed covered. The soil is kept moist; and further, to keep the surface
in an equable condition in that respect, the boxes are covered with
brown paper or moss until the seeds have germinated. A tempera-
ture of 60° is a very suitable one for starting the seeds in. When a
few inches high, the seedlings are potted singly into 5-inch pots, and
kept gently growing, and in due time, as the season advances,
hardened off, and planted out with other stuff about the end of May.
Cannas do well under the same treatment j but these have not proved
satisfactory here, and are not now grown. Wigandia caracasana,
when well grown, makes a handsome foliage plant. The seeds are
very small. After the seedlings are up, they require growing on
quickly to secure strong plants for the bedding-out season. Solanum
W^arscewiczii requires" sowing just now too, though it is not necessary
to push the young plants on so rapidly as the above. Ricinus (the
best of which for Northern latitudes is Africanus), Diacanthas, D.
chamrepeuce (being a very necessary plant), and variegated Maize, are
soon enough sown eight weeks later. If a stock of the beautiful
Verbena venosa is wanted from seed, it should be sown immediately
in order to have good-sized plants. The seeds ought to be steeped in
water before sowing, and a not over-high temperature indulged in.

There is no time better than the present month for getting hardy
subjects into their respective places. There is generally a spell of
fine weather in February, and advantage ought to be taken of it for
the above purpose. The plants, either from cuttings or division, or
cuttings inserted to strike where they are to remain, get established
sufficiently before the drying winds of March come, and are also
safe from the interested attentions of birds intent on setting up estab-
lishments for themselves later on in the season. Cerastium tomento-
sum, the dark-leaved Ajuga reptans, and Stellaria graminea aurea, are
a trio of edging or carpeting plants of the first order. The first-named
is propagated by division or cuttings ; the Ajuga by division ; whilst
the Stellaria, which has got into bad repute through being improperly

68 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

treated, should be planted in good-sized tufts very closely. The
various Sedums may be planted at any time either now or later
on with equal success. Veronicas repens and pectinata, Saxi-
fragas cicspitosa and pulchella, and other hardy carpeting -plants,
should all be divided and planted now. An easily-managed grey-
leaved plant, not commonly grown, but well worth looking after
nevertheless, is Santolina incana. Slips of this, planted closely
where it is to remain, should now be put in. The beautiful variegated
Polemonium and Festuca glauca, both worthy of more extended
cultivation, should now be divided and replanted. The form of
Dae ty His glomerata known as elegantissima should be left undis-
turbed till April. A most attractive late-flowering plant which should
now be divided is Sedum spectabile. Phloxes should also be put
out now ; as also such Carnations as Duke of Wellington, King of
Purples, and Princess of "Wales. Violas and Pansies ought to be
sufficiently well rooted to stand transplanting now. I do not know
whether I am singular in my experience of Violas, but the only
really good bedding kinds here are Golden Perpetual, Sovereign,
Grievei, Perfection, Alpha, and, from appearances, Duchess of
Sutherland. No good white, free-blooming and continuous, has been
yet secured. Those who would prefer a good bloom, from the florist
point of view, with compact habit and continuity in flowering, will
find an acquisition in King Koffee Pansy. A well-managed bed of
fancy Pansies would prove a most interesting one in many gardens.
Only tried free-blooming and distinct kinds, and therefore limited as
to the number of sorts, would be admissible to such a position : prob-
ably Buttercup, Annette, True Blue, and Queen of the Gipsies would
be a sufficient number. A bed of show varieties might be made up of
the following sorts : King Koffee, Brilliant, Nina, Robert Burns, and
Rev. A. D. Taylor. Provided the beds are gone over three times dur-
ing the summer, and decayed blooms and seed-pods gathered off the
plants, good cultivation being supposed as a necessity, a greater quan-
tity of bloom will be secured from these than from the great majority
of bedding Violas now cultivated. I may be allowed here to suggest
a use for old Fuchsias which are inclined to get bare in the stem.
Cut them over about 4 feet from the surface of the pot, train off
all side shoots, and place in a warm structure, to start them into
growth. Encourage about half-a-dozen shoots to push from near the
top of the stem, and manage these so that a good large head may be
formed early in the season. These standard Fuchsias will be found
very useful planted widely in borders. Young plants may be quickly
grown for the above purpose, but old plants of no value do equally
well. R. P. B.

1879.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE-PLANTS. 69

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE-PLANTS.

THE CAPE HEATH.

Equal in importance to the Azalea, as a decorative plant, we must
reckon the Cape Heath ; and perhaps first in importance as regards
details of culture. Indeed, to produce a healthy well-flowered speci-
men Heath, especially one of the hard-wooded varieties, may be
almost considered a test-point in plant culture. And very few culti-
vators indeed can produce good specimens of any considerable size,
and keep them in health for a number of years. In order to succeed
in the cultivation of Heaths, a man's care and watchfulness must be
continuous, and not spasmodic, as no plant will sooner testify to
neglect or carelessness in watering or other details of management ;
and when once the damage is done, no after-treatment can rectify it.
If possible, this genus of plants should be under the care of one
man about a place ; and in whatever house the plants may be placed,
he should still have the care of them, and no one else be allowed to
touch them. He will thus get to know the wants of each plant, and
can administer to them as required. Great damage is frequently
done to plants through being handed from one man's charge into that
of another, as they may be* changed from house to house. A man
thus loses interest in the plants ; and they are very likely to suffer
from being either over-watered or under-watered, unless the man
should be extra careful, which, we are sorry to add, is frequently not
the case. Of course, to small or moderate-sized places these remarks
do not apply, as in such places the whole of the glass will probably
be under the master's care, or under the charge of one man ; and it is
oftenest from such places that we see really good plants of all kinds
turned out — not to speak of other branches of gardening, which goes
to prove the correctness of our remarks. We are of opinion that in
large places especially, instead of having a man to take charge of a
certain number of houses, whatever may be their contents, or how-
ever often changed, it would be a far better plan to let the man
have the charge of certain kinds of plants wherever they may be
placed, either temporarily or otherwise. If that were the case, we
do not think so many dead-alive-looking plants would be seen as one
does find in going through many places. A man would come to take
a pride in seeing the things under his care doing well, knowing that
if anything went wrong with them it would be known where the
blame lay.

Unless in the raising of new varieties from seed, Heaths are propa-
gated from cuttings. The young growths, after they have got a little
firmness in them, should be slipped off with a heel, trimmed with a

F

70 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

sharp knife, and the foliage clipped or cut from off a portion of the
lower end of the stem. Six-inch pots are large enough in which to
place the cuttings. Fill the pots, after crocking them well, to within
an inch or so of the rim, with good peat, rubbed through a half-inch
riddle, using some of the rougher portions on the top of the crocks,
so as to secure thorough drainage — some silver-sand may be mixed
along with the peat — press all firmly into the pots, and smooth it off
level, then fill up with pure silver-sand, water through a fine rose,
and then the pots are ready for the cuttings. Take a bell-glass a size
smaller than the pots, and press it on the sand so as to make a mark,
then proceed to put in the cuttings within this mark, so that they
may be clear of the glass when it is put over them. Put the cuttings
in firmly, and give another watering through a fine rose, to settle the
sand about them ; and after the cuttings have dried a little, put on
the bell-glasses. They may be placed in a house having a tempera-
ture of about 50°, and shaded from bright sun. The glass should be
taken off and wiped dry inside every morning ; and they must be
watched for mildew, and dusted slightly with sulphur on its first
appearance. After they have formed roots, pot them off singly into
small thumb-pots, using nearly equal parts of peat, rubbed through a
fine sieve, and silver-sand; and, indeed, in all subsequent stages of
their culture, nothing but good fibry peat and silver-sand should be
used; only, as the pots increase in size, the compost should be rougher,
so that when they come to be in pots larger than 6 inches, the soil
should merely be broken in pieces with the hands, and not sifted at
all ; and at this stage a few small pieces of charcoal will be an
advantage in helping to keep the soil open. The pots should always
be carefully drained, not so much by putting in a large quantity of
crocks thrown in any how, as in having them carefully put in, and a
layer of sphagnum moss over them.

The great object during the first three or four years of their growth
is to get a good foundation laid for the future specimen plant ; this
must be secured by frequent pinchings, and tying out the young
shoots so as to get them into proper form. If this is not properly
attended to at first it can never be done afterwards. They should
never be shifted into larger pots until the ball is thoroughly per-
meated with the roots. On the other hand, they should not, in a
young stage, be allowed to become pot-bound. The shifting is always
a critical time with them ; and many plants give way at this time or
soon after, which shows the necessity of carefulness in the operation.
The soil should be in a nice state as regards moistness, not too dry,
nor yet wet enough to be sticky. After they are shifted, give a good
watering, frequently repeated, until the whole mass is soaked through,

1879.] GARDENING IN THE OPEN. 71

and be careful that the ball is not dry before shifting ; if so, you will
never manage to get it wet again by ordinary waterings; the only plan
is to steep it for an hour or two in a pail or cistern of water, and then
let it drip awhile before potting. In potting, the soil must be rammed
hard round about the ball. After they are watered as above they
will not require any more waterings for a considerable time. They
should be set in a shaded place after potting, and out of draughts,
and may get a dewing over with a syringe on the evenings of hot days.
As regards training, a certain number of stakes are absolutely neces-
sary for most varieties ; yet they could do with far fewer stakes than
are often used in the training. Sometimes they are used in such
numbers as to be quite unsightly. The best way is to place a row of
short stakes inside the rim of the pot, and leaning outwards over
it ; then within this again another row, a little more upright ; a third
row, almost upright, with an upright one in the centre, will be
sufficient for the largest plants. The stakes should all be set before
any tying is done, and cut over to the proper height — all the stakes
forming each row being of equal length ; then the main branches can
be tied to the stakes, or slung to each other, as may be most con-
venient for bringing the plant into due form.

Mildew is the chief enemy Heaths have to contend against, and
sulphur dusted on them is the best antidote for it. This, with care-
ful watering and potting, constitutes the whole secret of success in
the culture of Cape Heaths. Subjoined is a list of eighteen of the
best varieties: — Austiniana, Cavendishiana, Eximea superba, Hender-
sonii, Intermedia, Irbyana, Jasminoides alba, Lambertiana, Marnock-
iana, Massonii major, M'Nabiana, Obbata, Perspicua nana, Retorta
major, Tricolor elegans, Ventricosa Bothwelliana, Ventricosa globosa,
Ventricosa tricolor, and Hyemalis, autumn and spring Gracilis, and
Melantherae for cutting from. J. G. "W.

GARDENING IN THE OPEN.

I was much pleased to see both the Editor and the " Squire's Gar-
dener" advocating the system of planting fruit-trees generally in
plots of ground specially set apart for them, rather than of following
the old and decidedly wrong system of mixing fruit-trees and vege-
tables. The gardens here are entirely surrounded by Apple, Pear,
Cherry, and Plum trees ; and there is also a considerable number
dotted about the garden. The result, more especially with regard to
Apples, is, that a few good orchard-trees grow more fruit than the
whole of our over-pruned and, of necessity, much abused specimens.

72 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

In this district there are large fruit-gardens or orchards, and all
the farmers annually devote many acres to the growth of the most
common vegetables for market. What at first sight appears un-
accountable to many, is the fact that Peas sown by them at the same
time as we sow in private gardens (for experiment I have tried the
same varieties), are always fully a fortnight earlier than ours, and of a
much better quality. It is the same with Potatoes, Runner and Kid-
ney Beans, &c. ; and acres of Strawberries are picked long before
ours, and of a size and quality, too, so surpassingly good, both then
and later on, that we usually go to the fields for them whenever any
extra good ones are required. In how many gardens is the Alice Maud
Strawberry to be found? Very few, I opine, because of its bad
quality ; and yet this is grown in large quantities for the early supply.
This is followed by British Queen ; and this again by another variety
not so frequently grown as it deserves to be — Eleanor or the Oxonian.
All three varieties at fruiting-time present a sight very rarely indeed
to be met with in private gardens. Another curious fact is, that the
earliest and best vegetables and fruit are invariably found in the
centre of the field. That is a strong proof that growing them under
the shelter of walls, hedges, &c, is, if not altogether a mistake, far
from being either necessary or advisable, as it has the effect of stimu-
lating the growth at unseasonable times, on which the first un-
favourable change quickly has a very injurious effect. Those in the
open grow sturdy and strong, and consequently are better able to
withstand inclement weather, both with regard to the growth, but
more especially the bloom ; and what is undoubtedly of primary
importance, they obtain the most bountiful supply of light and air.

Between here and London, I very frequently see hundreds of
acres of the most sturdy Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, Celery, Onions,
and, very noticeably, Lettuce. One would think any gardener
who has seen the latter growing in the open, would in the future
give this most useful vegetable a fair chance. Yet this is not the
case; the majority apparently thinking the proper place for it is
among the fruit-trees, and other out-of-the-way spots, rarely grow
any really good Lettuce. Brown Cos Lettuce is never grown for
market, on account of its objectionable colour; but the varieties
of Green Cos appear hardy enough, having this season with-
stood twenty or more degrees of frost, and will no doubt eventu-
ally be fit for use before those wintered by gardeners in frames.
Vegetable Marrows and Cucumbers, again, are largely grown in the
open fields, and the crops are usually enormous. It is true they
are manured heavily, and early in the season are sheltered by lines
of Rye-grass sown for that purpose; but contrast them and their

1879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 73

treatment with those in private gardens, where they are very often
grown on heaps of rubbish or manure, growing luxuriantly and
fruiting but little. The above facts will, I trust, help to demonstrate
the correctness of the theory propounded by the above-mentioned
writers ; and I for one will, if it can be avoided, never attempt to
grow fruit-trees and vegetables together — nor, after seeing the many
healthy Standard trees heavily laden with fruit in the vicinity of
London, go in for any Pyramids, which, however shapely and well
managed, are seldom profitable. I think the Editor would have done
well to have mentioned the few varieties of Apples he finds so use-
ful in his district, as it is not yet too late to plant. Here the market-
growers confine themselves to a very few varieties — the majority
being kitchen-Apples, as one of the first questions usually addressed
to the salesman by the buyers is, " Will they cook ? " To the growers,
the other essentials are size, colour, and productiveness. One of the
best is Blenheim Orange ; other favourites are Bess Pool, Wellington,
Hawthornden, Hollandbury, Reinette de Canada, Warner's King,
King of the Pippins, and Hanwell Sowing.

W. Iggulden.
Ousett Hall, Essex.

[The varieties we referred to are : Lord Suffield, Stirling Castle, Round
Cat's Head, King of the Pippins, Blenheim Pippin, Croftanry, New Haw-
thornden, Keinette de Canada, George the Fourth. — Ed.]

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

The 'Garden,' speaking of the culture of that most beautiful and deservedly
popular flower the Bouvardia, in the London market gardens, says : —

" Messrs Low & Co., of Clapton, are the largest cultivators of Bouvardias in
pots, and the way in which they grow them is as follows : In autumn old
plants which have done flowering are cut down nearly close to the pot, and
placed in a moderately cool dry temperature. After Christmas is over a little
more heat is given them, and they are frequently syringed overhead ; this has
the effect of starting into growth a number of shoots from the bases of the
plants. These, when sufficiently firm, are taken off, made into cuttings, in-
serted singly in 3-inch pots, and plunged in Cocoa-nut fibre on a gentle bottom-
heat. These cuttings, under favourable circumstances, soon strike root, when
they are potted in 5-inch and 6-inch pots in good fibrous loam and leaf-mould or
rotten manure. As they advance in growth they are subjected to a cooler and
more airy temperature than that in which they were struck, and when well
established all the light, air, and sunshine possible are admitted to them, and
they receive copious supplies of water at their roots. From these plants cut-
tings are taken with which to form a successional batch of plants ; they are
taken off when the plants have made three or four leaves, the two lower joints
only being left on the plants. From these joints strong shoots are soon
emitted ; these, when 4 or 5 inches long, are also stopped ; and this operation is

74 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

carried on in the same manner for fonr or five times, each set of cuttings being
treated in the some way. Those struck first in the year make excellent bushy-
flowering plants by the following autumn, and the last taken off, which is in
August and September, make good plants to bloom in the succeeding spring.
The old plants, from which the cuttings were first taken, are also shaken out
and potted, and they make bushy, well-flowered plants early in the summer.
In order to make large specimens, which, however, is seldom done in market
gardens (except for supplying cut blooms), old plants are cut back year after
year and shaken out and repotted. During summer Bouvardias are grown in
cool houses or pits, and sometimes in temporary frames, but in autumn, winter,
and spring a moist airy temperature of from 50° to 55° is maintained, except-
ing in severe weather, when a little lower temperature does not injure them.
During late years some growers plant out their Bouvardias in the open air in
summer, a plan by which good plants may be obtained with less labour and
expense than in the case of those grown in pots. It however becomes a ques-
tion whether they are so valuable to the buyer as well-established pot-plants ;
but that, with growers for market, stands for nothing. For planting out,
cuttings are inserted early in February, stopped in the same way as before
mentioned, and, after being duly hardened off, are planted out about 2 feet
apart in well-prepared ground the first week in June. During summer they
are kept well supplied with manure- water, the surface-soil is kept well stirred
with the hoe, and sometimes a mulching of manure is applied. In the first
week of September, when the shoots show bloom, the plants are carefully lifted
and potted, and, after being well watered overhead and at the roots, are placed
in cold frames, and kept close and shaded until re-established ; after that they
are again exposed to air and sunshine, and when the weather gets cold they
are placed in houses or warm pits near the glass. By this means strong, bushy,
well-flowered specimens are obtained during the winter months which need no
stalking or support in any way. Indeed, under no circumstances do market-
growers stake Bouvardias, beyond placing a neat deal stick in the centre of
each plant, so as to support the branches in a manner to form neat, but by no
means formal, conical or pyramidal-shaped plants."

* The Journal of Horticulture ' gives, in the interests of seedsmen and their
assistants, a piece of good advice on the subject of ordering seeds, which is
well worth the attention of gardeners who delay sending their seed orders till
the last moment, and then expect them to be executed at once. Says your
contemporary : —

" Of the many thousands who purchase seeds few can form any conception
of the extraordinary pressure that large firms experience during the busy
season. It is only by long preparation and extreme effort; by close — too
close — work, almost night and day, that orders can be executed in time to
enable the seeds to be of service to the purchasers. By ordering seeds early
no more cost is incurred by the purchaser, he has the choice of the first and
usually the best stocks of seed, and a great boon is at the same time conferred
on seed dealers and their assistants.

"During the height of the seed season it is absolutely impossible that orders
can be executed immediately they are received, and consequently those who
do not give the orders before the time for sowing arrives must experience con-
siderable inconvenience. The seedsman is then generally blamed for a want
of promptitude, when in reality the blame rests with the purchaser and not
with the vendor. In order to facilitate the execution of orders, which become
unusually heavy as the spring advances, the great seed firms commence pre-

1879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 75

parations in midwinter, and even before Christmas additional assistants are
engaged, and men 'work overtime' in preparing packets and parcels of the
seeds most likely to be in demand. Thus, everything that the vendors can do
is done to accelerate the dispatch of the parcels with the utmost celerity.
Could the seed-purchasing public see the efforts that are made to execute the
orders with as little delay as possible, and hundreds of men working at high
pressure until almost midnight for weeks together, they would endeavour to
make out their orders early ; they would then be better served, an important
industrial section of the community would be benefited, and the wheels of an
important trade would move the more smoothly."

In the same paper the genial 'Wiltshire Rector,' in his annual homily,
has an interesting and true story to tell of gardeners who have actually as a
colony gone on, fathers succeeded by sons, from a.d. 1422 to this very year —
that is, for 456 years, and in the same place. It is in France, the land of fruit
culture. Tnere is a Scottish colony of gardeners at St Martin d'Auxigny near
Bourges. Its history is this : "When Charles VII. of France was in retirement
at Bourges he had a Scottish guard, whose High Constable was John Stuart of
Darnley. In 1422 this gentleman established himself with his companions-in-
arms at St Martin's. Special privileges were granted to the settlers until the
revolution of 17S9. The colony now numbers three thousand inhabitants ; and
the people, thus in some degree isolated, have maintained their nationality to
the present day, the members marrying among themselves. Even now the
people of the surrounding district call them 'the English,' but they call them-
selves 'the Scotch.' They have a strong regard for the country of their fore-
fathers ; they are Protestants in religion, and are very industrious and honest.
They devote themselves, as they have always done since their settlement as a
colony, to the culture of fruit. Each male possesses a small plot of ground,
and the produce is sent to Bourges, Orleans, and Paris. Who knows but these
interesting people had Scotch gardeners for their remote ancestors, and when
they dropped soldiering resumed gardening."

Who killed the Culford Grape-Vine sport ? Did it perish for want of gem-
mules in its system? or has it been laughed out of existence? Will Mr D. T.
Fish sing its requiem ? Will the ' Gardener's Chronicle ' come out with a black
border? Dejection reigns in Wellington Street, and there is gloom around
Bury St Edmunds !

Ye still may see the Culford Vines

In summer when they're green,

But Culford's Golden Champion " sport"

Will never more be seen.

Alas ! we are afraid it is ' The Gardener ' and Mr William Thomson that
have slain the "sport." But for this journal the Culford apparition would,
without doubt, have been "chronicled" as a fact — if an unexplained and un-
accountable one. It would have gone forth to the world as a reality, and
backed by "scientific" authority that did not hesitate to set reasonable evi-
dence and probabilities aside, to make room for mere assertions that were con-
fessedly opposed to the best ascertained facts of vegetable physiology bearing
on the case. Individuals may occasionally be excused for declining to be
" convinced against their will," but what are we to think of the professedly
philosophical exponent of the truth so far forgetting itself as to descend to such
a position, and lend its influence to support a phenomenon that, to say the
least, cannot stand to be tested fully and fairly by the common rules of evi-
dence. Yes ! it was ' The Gardener ' that all but thrashed the life out of the

76 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

"sport," and took the wind out of the sails of its advocates, and "with such
effect too that they have not yet recovered from the shock — he who runs may
read— and now Mr William Thomson has given the finishing stroke. The eyes
which Mr Grieve sent to him to grow, that he might be not faithless but be-
lieving, have turned out as those who did not believe in the " sport" expected,
and contrary to what its advocates wished ; hence the object of the latter is
now to explain Mr Thomson's evidence in another way. But what is most
heartily amusing in the aspect of the " sport " cpiestion now, is the repudiation
by those who have written in favour of it of the term "advocates of the
sport" — among whom, if the term be allowed, one would naturally name Mr
D. T. Fish as leading counsel. He it was who went over to Culford to
elucidate the matter ; he it was who propounded the gemmule theory ; and he
it was who generally took the " sport " under his care. But he was no ' ' advocate
of the sport." Oh, dear, no ! There was nothing in all he said and did as its
champion that savoured of such a thing — nothing whatever. All he had got to
do was simply to record what he saw, and he did not venture a word more.
He did not come forward as the advocate of the "sport," because his old
friend of twenty years' standing besought him to do so. He did not see a bunch
of Grapes growing from a Trebbiano shoot and call it a Golden Champion as his
friend did, nor did he, when he found that the " sport " conformed to no recog-
nised law of growth or production, put forward the gemmule hypothesis for the
occasion, and make as much of it as an advocate could do who had a bad case,
and only one string to his bow. Neither did he, with the 'cute tactics of
the advocate, maintain that the failure of the Vine eyes to grow, which Mr
Grieve planted, was proof of the bona fide character of the "sport;" nor in
anticipation of probable results did he insinuate that if the eyes sent to Mr
Thomson did grow, they might "hie back again," and prove the same thing or
nothing at all ! He did not make use of Darwin, nor invoke his own remark-
able experiences concerning "striking instances of variation from normal
types " to establish his case ; nor did he supplement his vision and only guide
in the matter by one single speculation on the subject. No ; these are not
the tactics of the advocate, and Mr Fish did none of these things. No one
would think of accusing him of being an advocate of anything — even of the
"limekiln."

What happened to Mr Worthington G. Smith when he visited Edinburgh ?
Can anybody tell us? Here is that accurate observer's description of the
capital of the north, and what he saw there : —

"When a traveller finds himself in a magnificent city, with stone houses
eight and nine storeys high, and where ' haggis ' is sold in the provision
shops, and where 'tripe,' 'hot tripe,' 'hot tripe suppers,' meets him
printed at every turn, where, in the ancient and venerable and archasological
slums he sees, ' porridge at 8 ' painted on privileged-gates, and where hardy
northmen, emerging from ' wynds ' and 'closes,' throw glasses of 'usque-
baugh ' down their throats without the glass touching or nearing their lips,
then he may feel sure he is in Edinburgh."

Is it possible that some wag directed Mr W. G. Smith, on his arrival, away
from Princes Street and the New Town into the " wynds " and "closes " about
the High Street, and left him there like the " mitherless bairn,"

" Wha stan's last and lanely, and naebody carin'."

Mr W. G. Smith would no doubt soon see a haggis where he found himself.
A few turns would take him into the " Coogate," where he would see the

i879-] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 77

"magnificent city with stone houses eight and nine storeys high." Another
turn or two would lead him to the slums and closes about the "Old Flesh-
market," where he would find the " tripe," and a little further on in St Mary's
Wynd he would see the natives swallowing the whisky " without the glass
touching or nearing their lips," where he seems to have brought his visit to a
close, and gone south again to write for the ' Chronicle ' " A true and particular
account of Mr Worthington G. Smith's visit to Edinburgh and the north, and
all he saw there." It is distressing to learn that on the great subject of
" Puddock Stools," Edinburgh and the north is still under a cloud, and on
the whole we fear the haggis, the tripe, the whisky, the porridge, combined
with the air of the north generally, have been too much for the advocate of a
toad-stool diet and discoverer of the " resting -spore," who may have felt
just a little out of his latitude, and may be just a trifle neglected as well.
Porridge and whisky are good stiffeners of the spinal column, which, north
of the Tweed, supports a head that needs a hat a size larger than usual — hence,
probably, it is that the " salus " and the " resting-spore " are at a discount
there, and that in Mr W. G. Smith's mind the Modern Athens is associated
only with tripe, haggis, porridge, and whisky.

" Little Dips in Lethe," by Shirley Hibberd, is the title of an article in the
last Christmas Number of the 'Gardener's Magazine.' What is "Lethe,"
does the reader ask ? Well, being inexperienced, we would rather reserve our
opinion as to the nature of the compound in which Mr Shirley Hibberd
" dipped " more than once as he tells us ; but Mr Hibberd himself confesses that
" he felt as if he had taken Scotch whisky." He was conscious of that " agree-
able state of warmth and lightness " which the "whisky" imparts, and we may
be sure Mr Shirley Hibberd knows what he is talking about. After one of his
"dips,"* he says, " I now felt that madness had really come upon me, and I
began to bathe my temples and drink soda-water " — a cure, it may be here
mentioned, which has also been occasionally used successfully in cases of mad-
ness produced by other stimulants than "Lethe." But these were not the
only experiences of Mr S. Hibberd while under the influence of " Lethe." He
continues — " For a moment I paused, considering, and then the parietal bones
of my head expanded widely, as if parting at the sutures, and again collapsed
with a sort of shuffling sound," — a statement we do not doubt for a single
moment. This tendency of his head to expand seemed so great on one
occasion that it (his head) appeared "to fill the room." And he further
states that he went to bed while under the influence of the drug, and his
"head swelled to awful dimensions;" "but," he continues, "I was really
asleep, and never could call to mind at what time I went to bed, or at what
point of the illusion sleep came over me." Instances will no doubt occur to
the reader of people who have been similarly affected at times. Going to bed
and forgetting afterwards as to how and when that event happened is a not
uncommon experience to some people. Could it be at one of these periods of
abnormal expansion that Mr Shirley Hibberd evolved the great idea of " pulley -
trained fruit trees ? " And was that famous lecture which he delivered be-
fore the R. S. A. conceived under a similar inspiration ? It is exceedingly
desirable that we should know this, because there are many horticultural
and other writers "with hard-bound brains," who would be benefited by a
little "expansion " of their top storey. Altogether we regard ," Little Dips in
Lethe " as one of the most suggestive contributions to the literature of the
' Gardener's Magazine ' that has yet appeared in its pages. Reader.

* Query "nips,"— Printers' Devil.

78 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

THE CYCLAMEN.

Tue Cyclamen is fast rising to the front ranks as a decorative plant.
This is not to be wondered at ; for where cut flowers are in demand,
where rooms have to be decorated with flowering plants, and con-
servatories kept gay through the winter and spring months, there is
no plant that will adapt itself better to the purpose than the Cycla-
men. Cut liowers of it last a long time, and plants of it in a light
position in rooms continue to throw up their flowers, and keep in good
condition a considerable length of time. If the cultivator is in
possession of a good strain of plants, the best system is to save seed
from them, which will be ripe about July or August, when it
should at once be sown. Some growers prefer sowing the seed in
February and March ; and if the seed is not home- saved, and has to
be purchased, it frequently, when old, is a long time before it germin-
ates ; and if not sown till February, half the season is gone before
the seedlings are up. If home-saved seed be sown when ripe, it
germinates quickly, and allows a long season of growth.

The seed should be sown in pans in a light rich compost, not
covering too deeply. When well watered, the pan should be covered
with a sheet of glass, and moss laid over the glass. It soon germinates
if placed in a temperature of 60°. As soon as the plants appear
they should be gradually exposed to the light near the glass ; and if
kept in the temperature named, they soon form small bulbs, leaf
after leaf springs up, and in a very short time the seedlings are ready
to be pricked off into other pans, which are preferable to small pots,
pans not being so liable to get dry.

The Cyclamen should never be allowed to suffer for want of water
during the season of active growth. When the young plants are
large enough, they should be taken out of the pans and put into
3-inch pots, in a compost of rich fibry-loam, a little cow-manure,
and sufficient sand to make the whole porous. When the plants
have taken well to the new soil, they will grow rapidly ; and every
care must be exercised that they receive no check. When the pots
are full of roots, the plants should be repotted into 4-inch pots, using
the same compost. The plants should be gradually hardened off from
the temperature they have been growing in, and placed in cold
frames ; and on all favourable occasions they should have abundance
of air while making their growth, the frames being closed, and the
plants dewed overhead with the syringe on fine afternoons. They
should continue to grow apace, until they are ready for their final shift
into 5 or 6 inch pots— although the size of pot should be determined
by the cultivator, according to the different purposes the plants are re-

i879-] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 79

quired for. By the end of September or October they should be re-
moved from the cold frames to a house where a little warmth is main-
tained and abundance of air can play amongst them. They should
be placed as near to the glass as possible. They will soon commence
to throw up their flowers, especially if placed into a little more
warmth. By so doing, the plants can be brought into flower in
batches as required.

Single bulbs treated as described will produce 100 to 150 blooms.
These will not all be open at one time, but will be produced in succes-
sion for three months or more, provided they are not kept in too
much heat. It is well to raise a set of young plants annually.

After blooming, the plants are carefully attended to, and are
occasionally watered with manure-water, to assist them to develop
and mature their bulbs thoroughly before they go to rest. Planting
the bulbs out in the early part of June is a good system, mulching
with cocoa-nut fibre or old tan, to prevent the ground from drying
too frequently. Another good plan is to plunge the plants out in
their pots in any material that will hold moisture. In either case
the plants should be repotted in the early part of September, and
kept close in a frame for a time, and there treated as described for
the seedlings. The bulbs must be cared for after the flowering
season, if success is again looked for. A Growek.

THE AMATEUE'S GARDEN.

SEEDS AND SEED-SOWING.

It is scarcely time yet (February) for getting in the general ruck of garden
seeds, though in dry warm soil many kinds may be sown, at least by the end.
of the month, with great propriety. Now is the time to calculate and procure
the quantities to be sown. Indeed, this should be seen to before the soil is
prepared, so that ground intended for the various crops may be properly
treated. In giving directions for choosing seeds, the general rule is to say
how much of this, that, and the other thing will be required for a quarter of
an acre, half an acre, and so on. Such advice only serves to puzzle. The
fact is, no two individuals' wants are the same, and hence a selection of
seeds which might fit one person very well would be of little use for another.
What I propose is, to give as near the amount of space required by a given
quantity of seed, and by this means each person will be enabled to calculate
to a nicety the seed required for his own individual wants.

Beet — 1 oz. will sow a row 50 feet long.

Broad Beans — 1 lb. will sow a row 60 feet long.

French Beans — 1^ lb. will sow 60 feet.

Carrots— 1 oz. will sow 130 feet.

Cress — 1 oz. will sow 20 feet of a row 4 inches broad.

80 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

Leeks— 1 oz. will sow a bed 5 feet by 5 feet.

Lettuce— \ oz. will sow 50 feet.

Mustard — Same as Cress.

Onion — 1 oz. will sow 40 feet.

Parsley — 1 oz. will sow 50 feet.

Peas— 1 lb. will sow 30 feet of a drill 5 inches broad, of the small, and 36

feet of the large sorts.
Parsnips — 1 oz. will sow 100 feet.
Potatoes — 1 peck will plant 100 feet if the seed is good, and cut to 2 eyes to

a set only.
Radish — 1 oz. will sow 20 feet.
Spinach— 1 oz. will sow 60 feet.
Turnip — 1 oz. will sow 100 feet.

Cabbage, Cauliflowers, Savoys, and all the Brassicas should be got in packets,
as a very small quantity of seed will raise enough for most gardens cultivated
by amateurs. Indeed, it is advisable to get the plants from the nursery or
from some obliging friend, and so save a great amount of worry.

In some collections of seeds offered by enterprising seedsmen, I have some-
times seen 3 oz, of Cabbage included for gardens of ^ of an acre ! Why, it is
more than enough to raise plants for the whole ground ; of Celery and all other
vegetables not included above, a moderate packet is sufficient. A mere pinch
of Celery will raise hundreds of plants.

Concerning annual flower-seeds, some of the best got-up seedsmen's cata-
logues afford a good deal of information ; and to these I must refer the amateur
in the meantime, until I treat of them in a chapter on flower-gardening.

Kinds to Sow. — It is not enough for the inexperienced to know the proper
quantity of seed required to sow a given space, it is of greater importance to
know what kinds to sow. The kinds named below have been fully proved by
the writer of this, and he can therefore recommend them. Almost every
variety recommended has been well proved, and I have carefully avoided
anything savouring of novelty which has not been found equal or superior to
older varieties. The inexperienced should not be led astray by the glowing
accounts of new introductions, as a great percentage of really new vegetables
are inferior to well-known kinds, and the really good are sometimes nothing
more than old kinds re-named. At the same time, really meritorious novelties
are occasionally introduced. In this selection, I range the names according to
their earliness.

Beet — Dell's Dark Red, Nutting's Selected; and for extremely thin poor soils,
Egyptian Turnip, rooted.

Broad Beans — Early Mazagan, Seville Longpod, Broad Windsor.
French Beans — Negro Longpod, Canadian Wonder.

Brussels Sprouts — All depends on the strain ; Greens or Borecole, ditto.
Brocoli — Veitch's Autumn, Snow's Winter White, Purple Sprouting, White
Sprouting, Leamington, Elletson's Mammoth, Dilcock's Bride.

Cauliflower — Early London, Dwarf Mammoth, Walcheren, Veitch's Autumn..
Carrots — Sutton's Champion Short Horn, James's Intermediate, Altringham —
the Short Horn for earliest, and the Intermediate for shallow, soils.

Cabbage — Little Pixie, small, but of the finest quality; and if planted close,
will yield more for the table than the large-growing kinds, many of which I
consider unfit for the table at all. Dwarf York, fine for sowing in April to
keep up an autumn supply: sown at the end of July, and planted out in
September, it is fit for use in April and May. The same may be said of

1879.] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 81

Little Pixie. Enfield Market and Sugar-Loaf are good larger sorts. Tha
Drumhead kinds are unfit for a small garden — the "dwarf" being of better
quality than the "giant."

Savoys— Sutton's Tom Thumb, very small, but of superexcellent quality;
and if planted a foot apart each way, will yield almost as much as the larger
kinds. Early Dwarf Ulm is a good early sort ; and Drumhead a larger and
later one.

Celery — Sandringham and Cole's Crystal among whites; Sutton's Sulham
prize of pink varieties ; and William's Matchless among reds.
Vegetable Marrow — Moore's Cream, and Hibberd's Prolific.
Leeks — Ayton Castle Giant for quality and size, and Musselburgh for
hardiness.

Lettuce — Cos varieties — London White and Paris "White, Champion Brown.
Cabbage — Varieties — All-the-year-round and Neapolitan.
Onion — The Queen, very early, Danver's Yellow, Blood Ked, James's Keep-
ing, for spring sowing ; and Globe, Flat Tripoli, and Giant Rocca for sowing
early in August.

Peas— Ringleader, Kentish Invicta, William the First, and Sutton's Emerald
Gem for first sowings; Dickson's Favourite, Daniel O'Rourke, and Fabus Market
Favourite for second; best of all, M 'Lean's Wonderful; Champion of England
(very tall) for third sowing ; Veitch's Perfection, Ne Plus Ultra, Lynn's Mar-
row, William's Emperor of the Marrows, Hair's Dwarf Mammoth, and M 'Lean's
Premier for last sowings.

Potatoes — Veitch's Early Ashleaf, Wonderful Red, Alpha, Early Rose, Snow-
flake, Dalmahoy, Walker's Early Regent, Paterson's Victoria, Sutton's Mag-
num Bonum. I strongly recommend beginners to fight shy of the more famous
show kinds, as not a few are of very inferior quality, such, for instance, as the
old Handsworth's Early, very wrongly re-christened Porter's Excelsior. This
is an inferior Potato to eat, although of fine shape.

Radish — We advise amateurs to get their seed in mixed packets.
Parsnip — Student, Hollow Crowned.

Spinach — Round, for sowing in spring and summer ; Prickly, for sowing
about the middle of August. New Zealand requires to be raised under glass,
and transplanted early in June.

Tomato — The Conqueror, and Hathaway 's Excelsior. They require rearing
under glass, and after danger from frost is past, to be put in any vacant space
of a warm wall. In cold districts they require to be under glass.

Turnip— Early Dutch White, Early White Strap Leaf, Robertson's Golden
Ball, Chirk Castle, Black Stone, and Laing's Swedish, for keeping over winter.
These varieties have always given satisfaction. It would have been very
easy to have doubled or even trebled the list. Few amateurs require a long
list, and more experienced growers will be able to add to this list for them-
selves. Sometimes a given variety of a vegetable will do well in one district
and not in another, such as Peas and Potatoes. I would warn amateurs
against being led astray by large vegetables — that is, kinds which grow large
naturally, as the more rapidly the majority of vegetables are grown the
tenderer they are. Half-starved garden produce is neither palatable nor
wholesome ; nor, as a rule, are giant varieties. Size and coarseness almost
invariably go hand in hand ; and as a matter of fact, it is not often that great,
coarse-growing vegetables yield the greatest amount of real useful produce. For
instance, the ground occupied with a coarse Drumhead Cabbage would produce
three or four Little Pixies, the united weight of which would equal the coarse

82 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

one, and which would give the greatest satisfaction on account of their quality.
It is the same with Potatoes, although there are more exceptions among them
than among any other vegetables. Among Carrots, good strains of Early Horn
are finer than any other kind, and the yield is not very much less than the
coarsest kinds; indeed, is sometimes greater. It would be well if your readers
who are acquainted with specially meritorious varieties were to add them to
the above. The kinds named I can confidently rely on myself, but it is pos-
sible that some of them do not succeed as well under other circumstances ; and
any information will prove of the greatest value, not to amateurs only, but to
many others.

Seeds to be Sown in February, and how to Sow them.— Supposing the
ground to be in the condition left by the winter's digging, it will require some
preparation before it is fit for sowing seeds. The first caution I would give is
not to tread or work it in any way while it is in a wet condition. The object
of laying up soil in a rough state in winter is to get it thoroughly pulverised
by the action of the weather. But if you commence working it while it is in
a wet condition, you not only neutralise all the good effects of the weather,
but you will find it dry very slowly. But supposing it to be in fair working
order, the best way to begin preparing light and medium soils, which are in
good condition for sowing upon, is to level the rough surface with a Dutch-hoe.
A majority of amateurs use a rake ; but a rake is a very bad tool for the pur-
pose— it makes too fine a surface, thus excluding the drying influence of air
and sun, and it fails to stir beneath the surface. If the soil be heavy, or if it
be new soil, over which a layer of rotten manure has been spread, to afford food
for the seedlings in their first stages, as advised in our last paper, then the use
of the fork will be necessary, so as to thoroughly break and mix the soil. If
very stony, the stones should be thrown out in the process, and afterwards
carefully raked with a good wide-toothed rake (the new American kind is best),
with as little treading of feet as possible, especially at the early season of the
year. Where the soil is very poor, and when no rotten manure is forked into
the surface, a sprinkling of guano ought to be given ; and if part is thus
dressed and part not, the difference will be very marked. Rather delay
putting in seeds at all than put them in to an ill-prepared or pasty soil.
Seeds sown in soil and battered in generally rot; and when they do grow, they
come up weakly and unhealthy. Study the calendars and the weather,
especially the latter. Gardeners who have to keep up an unbroken supply of
table vegetables have to try many shifts to forward crops, such as sowing
seeds while standing on boards placed between the rows, to obviate treading
the soil, and afterwards covering in with dry light soil kept in store for the
purpose.

Broad Beans may be sown any time now, when the soil is in good con-
dition, without any fear for their safety. Draw drills 2^ or 3 inches deep,
and from 2 to 2| feet asunder, according to kinds, dropping in the seeds at
from 3 to 4 inches apart. In finishing off, do not rake too finely unless the
soil is naturally very dry — even then it is best to leave a rough but neat
surface.

Cabbages. — A few may be sown at the end of the month to succeed autumn-
sown ones, which may now be transplanted should the weather prove fine.

Cauliflower. — A few seeds may be sown, but they had better be protected by
hand-lights on cold frames.

Brussels Sprouts and Savoys we always sow at this season in boxes placed
in cold frames, and afterwards prick them out whenever the first rough leaf is

1879.] STRAWBERRIES ALL THE YEAR. 83

developed, keeping them close to the glass, and well aired in fine weather to
prevent drawing.

Leeks may be sown by the end of the month. To grow the great monsters
seen at autumn shows in Scotland, sow in heat in pots, prick out when the
second leaf shows, and pot on when necessary, hardening off in time to get
them planted in very rich soil about the middle of May. Very fine crops can be
raised by sowing on a slight hotbed at the end of this month. They will be
ready to plant out at the end of May. By this means a small spot of ground,
if rich, will raise an astonishing amount of the finest Leeks.

Onions. — Sow the main crop if the situation be good, and the soil light and
in fine working condition, otherwise wait till next month. A sprinkling of
wood-ashes and soot will help the crop.

Peas. — If none has been sown, get in the first as soon as the soil is in good
condition for sowing, and a second sowing soon after.

Parsnips. — Sow by the end of the month if possible, but wait till the begin-
ning of March if the soil be cold and wet.

Parsley may be sown, and Lettuces, Cress, Mustard, and small saladings
generally, may be sown in a warmer corner. If they can be helped with glass
coverings the produce will be earlier and finer. Mustard and Cress in shallow
boxes can be forwarded very well in the kitchen window.

It may be useful to add that seeds should not be huddled together in heaps,
but should be sown so that each plant will be perfectly free of its fellow.
Give everything plenty room for development. A foot between rows of Onions,
Leeks, Parsley, Lettuce, Mustard, Cress, and suchlike, according to the rich-
ness of the soil, will be about an average distance. Amateurs generally sow
Peas too close. "When sown among other things, allow 3 feet from the roots
of Peas to the next row of any other crop. If the south-west winds strike
the garden, allow 3 J or 4 feet in the lee side of rows, if they run south and
north (as they should), and subtract the extra distance from the windward
side. If in breaks by themselves, allow from 6 to 8 feet, according to the
kinds, between the rows ; but most of the varieties recommended are dwarf-
growing, and 6 feet will do. A Villa Gardener.

STRAWBERRIES ALL THE YEAR.

There has been much written lately about the preparation of
Strawberries for forcing, both in ' The Gardener ' and in the horticul-
tural papers — some recommending exposure to all weathers, and others
more or less protection. I think the value of the Strawberry as an
autumn and winter fruit has not received the attention it deserves.
Mr Bardney's article in your January number is a step in the right
direction. And it is in hopes that my experience in the same way
may be of benefit to some of your readers that I add my testimony.
Gardeners situated as I am here, who have to grow all my own
dessert, will justly realise the value of a handsome dish of Straw-
berries during the shooting season. A few plants of Garibaldi
Strawberries that I lifted in the autumn of 1877 having proved very
useful, I determined last season to grow my early plants with the view

84 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

of an autumn and winter crop as well as a spring one ; and the result
so far exceeded my expectations, that I have been able to send in a
dish of Strawberries any time they were required since the beginning
of September — not merely a dozen or two, but sometimes as many as
six dozen, and that from a limited quantity of plants. At present —
the 3d of January — I have a good crop of fair-sized, well-coloured fruit,
and will continue to have for at least a month to come. The flavour
until December was all that could be desired. Since then, owing to
damp, sunless weather, the flavour is rather deficient ; but still the
Strawberries are valuable as a dish for the dessert. For the advan-
tage of any who may wish to try the experiment, I will say, do not
over-crop in spring, rather sacrifice a few berries than keep them too
long in hot, dry quarters j be very careful in hardening off ; then plant
out in the best part of the garden you can spare, without injuring the
ball. They will require little more attention, with the exception of
watering in very dry weather. If planted in rotation, they will succeed
each other in autumn, the earliest forced coming soon after the late
outside ones, from which in favourable seasons a good supply may be
gathered in the open air. Lift those for autumn and winter in batches,
leaving the last out as long as they are safe from frost : use pots a
size larger than the plants were turned out of. Keep them rather close
until established, then place them in any dry, airy house. My Straw-
berries have been grown until lately in the same houses where they were
forced in spring — viz., an early vinery and peach-house — the proper
treatment of the permanent occupants of the houses, and not the
Strawberries, being considered. The sort grown is Garibaldi, alias
Vicomtesse H. de Thury. I believe it could be quite possible to en-
circle the year with Strawberries from that one variety.

Robert Carter.
"Waresley Park.

LESSONS IN DRAWING, ETC., FOR YOUNG GARDENERS.

CONCLUSION.

In Lesson No. XIII. (January 1878, p. 34), a few hints were given
about how to find the centres required to draw the various outlines
of walks, &c, on plan fig. 37, by means of the compass. In laying
out such a plan as is referred to, some of the curves will be found of
too wide a radius to be worked from their respective centres. The
carriage-road, for instance, could not be very conveniently taken from
the centres as it has been drawn on the plan. The perpendicular
lines necessary in drawing a working plan may be retained and

i879.]

LESSONS IN DRAWING, ETC.

85

utilised by drawing lines at right angles to them to certain points,
and measuring such distances as may be required to ascertain the
position of such points on the ground. To make this easily under-
stood, suppose that line a b, fig. 63, is one of the lines just men-
tioned, or that has been drawn (as it really has) for the purpose of
measuring from, but drawn square with any other lines previously on

Fig. 63.

the plan. We shall draw another line, c d, at right angles to a b,
and make the intersection of the two a starting-point. This happens
to be near the centre of the carriage-road, and from that point to
where the line a b crosses the edge of the drive, is on the one hand
10 feet, and on the other 14 feet. Mark this upon the plan on the
line between the points measured from. Working up the line a b,

G

86 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

the next line that crosses it is a shrubbery outline, and it will be
found to be 38 feet from the edge of the drive, 12 feet from the former
line. Another line, e f, will be desirable — at right angles, of course ;
and from this point a fresh start may be made to measure right and
left, and further up the line, marking each measure-
ment between the different points. Returning to

where we started, and measuring to the left on line
c d, 20 feet from the intersection of the two lines,
another point will be found on the outside edge of the
carriage-road : 33 feet from this point draw a short line
at right angles to c d, which will intersect the edge of
the drive 15 feet from c d. A similar line drawn at a
distance of 40 feet, will intersect it at 23 feet ; and so
the proper curve of the road may be found without the
aid of a centre. In the same way, the curve on the
right hand of a b may be found by drawing lines
from c d at various points to cross the road; and measure the
distances in the same way as above. These lines must be marked
on the ground by means of a rod at each end, and at least one
intermediate one. This does not apply to the short side ones,
only the main lines. A square will be useful to guide the tape-line
in placing pegs at the various points on the short lines, if a line
is laid down on the main lines, from which measurements are being
taken. At fig. 64 is represented a very simple but very useful in-
strument for such work as this. It is simply a piece of deal, a foot
of 14 inches square, fixed on to the top of a stout rod about 4 feet
long. On the top side of the board two lines should be drawn
exactly at right angles, and at' the extremity of each line a short brad
inserted, so that they project from the board half an inch. They
must be right upon the lines, and stand straight ; the ends will be
all the better if filed smooth and round. To show the usefulness of
this home-made instrument, we will again refer to fig. 63. The line
a b having a rod at each end and one at i, get a fourth rod and
place it at g, on a line with the other three ; lift this rod out, and
place the instrument described above in its place, and turn it round
till two of the brads are on a line with the rods on line a b. Now,
if measurements are wanted out to the right towards n, hand the
rod taken out at g to an assistant, with the end of a tape-line,
while you retain the reel, and hold it at whatever distance is re-
quired ; and at the same time, direct the assistant to place the rod
on a line with the two brads on the board, which will give you a line
at right angles to line a b. Just a hint more to the assistant who
is at the end of the line. Place the ring of the tape-line on the fore-

1879.] LESSONS IN DRAWING, ETC. 87

finger or thumb of the hand you intend holding the rod ; take the
rod between the fore-finger and thumb about 6 inches from the top,
and allow the rod to hang down plumb, keeping the line tight and
the rod just clear of the ground. He will thus be at liberty to move
easily backward or forward, as he may be directed — moving, as it
were, on the circumference of a circle, ready to drop the rod into the
exact spot wanted. By this means right-angle lines can be set off
without a line at all. This simple instrument is also very convenient
when measuring a piece of ground preparatory to drawing a plan, as
it is important to have the correct outline, and the positions of any
trees or other objects, properly ascertained ; and this can only be done
by following a similar course to that just described and illustrated in
fig. 63. If a plan of fig. 63 was required, and the measurements to
be taken on the ground, similar lines to those shown would have to
be sticked out and measured from, and the measurements marked
upon a rough sketch in note-book, before the plan could be pro-
duced on paper. I have been thus particular to show how a plan can
be correctly laid down without the aid of the centres from which
they may have been drawn on paper, because I think it sometimes
of importance. But however important it may be in connection with
geometrical flower-gardens to have everything exactly to fit, I do not
wish it to be understood that I would be very particular as to a few
feet or inches in laying out such a design as is given in fig. 37. If
the ground was all of an even surface, of course there would be no
need to deviate in the least from the plan ; but if the ground has
been made, or is naturally undulating, the outlines will in many
cases vary considerably from your plan — the eyes here taking the
place of the compass, to make the curves suit the ground. It will be
easily understood that an undulating surface is of greater area than a
plain surface of the same dimensions, and for that reason it would
not be possible to follow exact geometrical rules ; and if it were pos-
sible, it is not desirable, as any one with a good eye can make lines
suitable to the ground with less trouble than by the rules of geometry.
I believe landscape-gardeners generally have a great abhorrence to
anything of geometrical stiffness coming in contact with their few
and easy-flowing lines. With this, to a certain extent, no one will
differ ; but I think some landscape-gardeners carry their ideas, in
some instances, too far in the direction of a wild garden where there
is no space for that purpose — and many gardeners err as far in the
other direction in having too much of the ginger-bread style.

And now I must take leave of those of my friends who have
followed me to the end. In my endeavours to go over and be
understood on all points mentioned in our programme, I am afraid

88 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

I may have repeated myself on some occasions, and that some of the
papers may have had a "jumbled" appearance. But I hope these
and other faults will not detract from their general usefulness, and
that they may be the means of leading some to study that higher art
— landscape-gardening. E. Inglis.

[We are happy to know that these Lessons in Drawing have been much appre-
ciated by those for whom they were intended. Mr Inglis, we are glad to say,
is busy rewritting and improving them for publication in book form. As
this is the last lesson in drawing, we intend to publish in our March number
the first instalment of 'The Gardener's Primer,' also intended for young
gardeners. — En.]

CELOSIAS FOR EARLY FLOWERING.

It is not often that one sees or hears of Celosias being grown ex-
cept for the autumn decoration of plant-houses. It is the custom to
sow seeds at a certain time ; and I suppose we are determined to
abide by the custom as religiously as if it were an offence to depart
from it. I am not writing in depreciation of the value of Celosias
as autumn-flowering plants — my desire is rather the contrary, for
there is not a class of plants grown that are more useful or more
worthy of cultivation, either for cut flowers or as decorative plants.
It is only lately that I have been able to secure a strain of Celosias
worth cultivating. I have grown as many "weeds " under the name
of Celosias as most people ; and it was only through the recom-
mendation of a friend that I could be induced to attempt a resuscita-
tion of their culture with anything like spirit. Even annuals require
cultivation to make them grow well; but it really damps one's zeal, in
cultivating plants from seed, when deceived in the quality of the ar-
ticle purchased. Last year I resolved upon growing a few plants extra
well, to come in for the conservatory in July ; and by a miscalcula-
tion, and probably by a little neglect in shifting at the proper time,
they were in full blow early in June. But they came in useful for
a purpose I never thought of before — viz., for supplying cut flowers
at a time when the principal show of spring-flowering plants was
over, and when flowers of any class stand the box badly. They
travel so well, and their beautiful feathery sprays, so rich in colour,
are so well adapted for giving effect with other flowers, that I
venture to recommend the idea of growing an early batch for this
purpose to those who have not previously tried it, and who are,
like ourselves, hard enough up at times to wind up the season like
the "cut and come again" practice of more extensive establishments.

1879.] CELOSIAS FOR EARLY FLOWERING. 89

There is always a little dearth for flowers in June, before Roses and
other outdoor flowers come in to assist in filling up the flower-
basket.

About the first week in February will be a good time to sprinkle a
few seeds over the surface of a pan, and cover them thinly with fine
earth. Plunge in a bottom-heat of 85° ; and when the seedlings
are about an inch long, remove them to a shelf near the light,
and keep them regularly supplied with water. When they gain
a little strength and will bear handling, they should be pricked
off into shallow pans filled with rich mould, which should be placed
on the surface of the bed for a few days, where they can be covered
with a handlight, or otherwise shaded, and where they will furnish
themselves with bunches of fine healthy roots in the course of a few
days. They should then be returned to a place near the light, and
kept well watered and syringed till they are ready to be shifted into
3 or 4 inch pots. As they are plants of rapid growth, the time or
size of the shift is not of great moment (only they must not be
allowed to become potbound in a young state, or it will arrest growth
and cause them to feather prematurely), but it will be as well to de-
termine beforehand what size of pot the plants shall flower in, and
gauge the shifting accordingly. 8-inch pots are quite large enough
for all ordinary purposes, so that 4-inch pots will answer for the first
potting, and will leave ample room for working in a good addition of
fresh soil at the last potting. The soil may consist of any rich com-
post that has been in use for growing Melons or Cucumbers, with an
addition of rough leaf-mould. It should be warmed to the tempera-
ture of the house in which the plants have been growing ; and if the
weather is inclement, it is a good plan to take a portable potting-
bench to the house in which the plants are, and have them potted off
without incurring the risk of giving them a check. After potting,
plunge them again into the bed for a few days, and withhold water,
except what is applied through the medium of a syringe, to keep a
steady growing atmosphere ; and when the roots take hold of the
fresh soil, water freely as before. The increase of roots, and the
rapidity of growth under this treatment, will hasten the development
of the plants in an incredibly short time ; and when they are nicely-
furnished plants, they can be lifted out of the plunging material, and
set on the surface of the bed for a time, and afterwards toned off to
a growing atmosphere of between 60° and 70°, where they will
require more air, to harden them gradually to stand a lower tempera-
ture. At the last potting the size of pot may range from 6 to 8
inches in diameter. Of course those that are shifted into the small-
est-sized pot will show their feathery plumes first; so that by usiDg

90 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

pots of two different sizes, a succession can be secured fiom the same
batch of plants.

The final shift being given, it will still be necessary to encourage
growth (but in a somewhat lower temperature, as above suggested)
till the pots are well filled with roots. JJy this time they will have
made nice plants, and will require increased air and light, in order
to bring out the beautiful and varied tints of colour which are charac-
teristic of selected types of this well-known annual. They possess
the additional advantage of bearing being retarded for weeks if neces-
sary; and, taken altogether, they are about the most simple plants to
cultivate, and the most elegant to look at, that we possess.

Cultivator.

CARTON.

This is the seat of the Duke of Leinster, the home of the Fitzgeralds,
who have figured so long and so prominently in the history of
Ireland. Situated in the county of Kildare, it is only some fifteen miles
from Dublin, in a flat and fertile country, where bullocks by the hun-
dred may be seen wading in grass to the shoulders, like buffaloes on a
prairie. The railway and royal canal run parallel from Dublin to May-
nooth; indeed the former seems to be built on the banks of the latter.

Maynooth, an historical name of recent years, is a small quaint
country town or big village of one broad street or boulevard, with
a line of trees on either side parallel with the houses, stretching
from the college-gates at one end to the first gate for Carton on
the other : neither of which gates is at all worthy of mention as
gates to celebrated places, and both strike the stranger as being quite
mean ; but it must be admitted that finer gates would be quite out
of keeping with the immediate surroundings. Having entered the
street, about midway from the railway station, one turns instinctively
to the left towards the famous College, and approaching the gate,
the ruins of Maynooth Castle are passed, once the residence of the
Geraldines ; scarcely like ruins, however, but magnificent remains
of what must once have been a magnificent building. Outwardly
there appear two immense quadrangular blocks of ivy-covered
wall, rising from the greenest and closely-shaven turf. Never have
we before seen Ivy in such grandeur ; there looks like an acre of
it, standing perpendicular, of the greenest, most luxuriant colour.
Irish Ivy, we dare assert, and where Ivy is at home.

If the poet Gray had seen these towers, he would have devoted
a whole stanza to them, for they are indeed ivy-mantled j and they
are inhabited also by numberless starlings and jackdaws and swal-

1879.] CARTON. 91

lows, and maybe moping owls, and many other forms of life may
be seen for which this rare old plant forms a shelter ; and it must
have taken hundreds of years to creep over these ruins old, and to
gain its present strength.

Within the college-gates grows an ancient Yew-tree, which may
have been planted by some one of the former inhabitants of the
ancient castle. Outside it seems old enough to have been a tree when
Ireland was first annexed to the English crown, or it might have
been a bush when William came over from "Normandy and annexed
England to his own. It is the most perfect and healthy of any
old Yew-tree we ever saw of the same age ; indeed there does not
seem any sign of decay, so far as we remember. The bole is like an
immense fluted column, smallest at the very base, and widening as
it rises to the branches ; and we should say that the diameter may
be 5 feet at the widest part, of solid timber. We have seen Yews of
greater diameter, but decayed in the heart. This tree alone is worth
the journey from Dublin to see. Of Maynooth College we have
nothing to say horticulturally, except that in the kitchen we saw and
smelt the conversion of an immense caldron of Cabbages, after
boiling, into food beautiful and savory for the 500 students about
to sit down to dinner ; Potatoes also, and a caldron of cocoa under-
going an infusion of two hours for tea. There is a college-park, and
lawns and shady avenues.

Repairing to the ivy-mantled towers and along the boulevard, we
enter a long, straight drive, with broad margins, 60 or more feet of
Grass, with a line of trees, Spanish Chestnuts, and Limes on either side;
and in the far distance the eye encounters another gateway, with
dense masses of foliage in the background. The long avenue has a
bare, uncomfortable look about it ; but one feels that some old pa-
trician home is near. Through the gate, which is substantial, if not
imposing, the drive crosses a handsome modern bridge, which spans
a narrow part of a large lake, and from which some good views aie
had of the lake and park and masses of large oak-timber. Over the
bridge, the visitor finds himself in dressed ground, a highly-kept
drive, margined with choice evergreen shrubs and conifers and
shaven Grass, which winds around an incline to the carriage front
of the house, which does not call for much attention.

The kitchen-garden is very large, say 9 acres, intersected by fine old Yew-
hedges and cross-walls ; the soil heavy, and the situation apparently wet ; the
walls admirably covered with well-trained Pear-trees of all the leading sorts,
and laden with fruit. There were large quantities of very fine Strawberry -
plants in pots ; a long border full of herbaceous materials and annuals for
spring bedding, in fine health ; a loDg range of Peach-houses, the trees in fine
health and training ; long ranges of vineries ; and some venerable Fig-trees,

92 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

introduced from Italy by this or a former Duke, and allowed to grow in a
natural sort of way, with innumerable quantities of Figs of the White Mar-
seilles or some small sort. There are also several plant-houses stocked with
decorative plants, of which Eucharis amazonica was prominent ; and we also
remember that the hot-water men were busy, and things consequently topsy-
turvy. The gardener's house is most pleasant and commodious-looking, with
a pretty and extensive piece of flower-garden in front.

Through a gate in the garden-wall, and we were into the pleasure-grounds :
and here much pleasure awaited us. One of the prettiest lake-scenes was pre-
sented to us which we ever remember to have seen in a garden — a most
natural-artificial lake, the outline excellently managed. It was, however, in
process of cleaning out, and its beauty could not be so well appreciated except
in imagination. One side is entirely overhung by a majestic bank of foliage ;
the other and lower end was fringed by sloping glades of grass interspersed by
shrubs and conifers, Pampas Grass, and Tritomas : in the centre was a long
island entirely overgrown by luxuriant vegetation ; and a striking feature of
this island, and one much admired, is shrubs of all sorts overhanging the water
to such an extent that no landing from a boat seemed possible — Willows, Dog-
wood, Rhododendrons, and all sorts of entangled vegetation, seemed floating or
growing out of the water. At one point, both arms of the lake could be seen
lost in the distance among overhanging branches, suggesting unknown extent,
and the possibility of African Stanley penetrating round the distant bend in a
canoe of savages.

Still farther we wended our way through a wild garden and groves of large
forest-trees ; and again a subtropical garden appears, with beds of Cannas.
Tobacco, Wigandias, and some grand old trees of Liriodendron tulipiferum :
and here was also a majolica balustrade round a fountain or something which
did not invite our taste. Suddenly at a turn a brace of peacocks in Yew de-
coyed us into a semi-private part of the grounds. These birds were perched
a considerable height, and were admirable specimens of the clipping art ; the
tails and head and beak were excellent. Here were also several fountains in
Yew, with basin above basin, repeated five or six times, the climax of the
hedger's art— just as the genius in confectionery who can fashion a ginger-bread
cake may yet aspire to a bride's cake.

Proceeding round a turn, we come suddenly on an elevated position on the
top of a flight of steps, in front of a magnificent broad vista of several hundred
yards' length, along a terrace parallel with the front of the mansion. Half of
the distance is enclosed on each side by high masses of foliage, within which
on each side are lines of the Florence Court Yew— grand specimens— their huge
black green masses contrasting with the emerald green of the turf. Down the
middle of this vista is a broad walk which leads to the flower-garden in front
of the house, where the usual glories of the Pelargonium and Calceolaria are to be
found. Violet Hill Nosegay was here, and Mrs "William Paul, both very gay ;
and the white-flowered, white-foliaged Mont Blanc. A feature of this garden
is, that it is laid out in panels of Yew, cut as if by machinery, two or three
feet high, straight and level, in a style seldom seen in England, and not at all
in Scotland. The mansion is of a white polished limestone, Pioman in style —
not in the most fortunate position, one would suppose, though spacious and
handsome enough. We are, however, not half done with the pleasure-grounds,
for we have a walk of a mile by the margin of the large lake first seen on
entering the gate, winding through shrubberies and rflantations, with many
varied scenes at every turn, until, passing a long bridge over a dam and

1879.] THE CULFORD VINE SPORT. 93

cascade, where we first realise that the lake is artificial, we enter the cot-
tage flower-garden — a sweet little garden of varieties in Roses, and arbours,
and shrubs, and borders, and bedding of Pelargoniums, and succulents, and
hardy carpeting -plants. The cottage itself is almost unique — a piece of
fancy-work like a cabinet from floor to roof. The pavement of the veranda
is a piece of mosaic itself in small pebbles, one design in commemoration
of the visit of Queen Victoria to Ireland. Within is a room of curiosities,
a museum of antiques, foreign and native ; and still within is another room,
exquisitely done in shells of every imaginable shape and clime, which cannot
be described — the design is marvellous, and marvellously executed, and all by
ladies of the Fitzgerald family, with the help of an old labourer. This is only
surpassed, so far as we have seen, by the grotto at St Giles, in Dorset, which is,
of the sort, possibly the finest thing in the three kingdoms, or elsewhere. Re-
turning by the opposite side of the lake, the dressed grounds are still on an
extensive scale of undulating slopes, with fine old forest-trees, and modern
Conifers, very old Cedars of Lebanon with lobes 3 or 4 feet in diameter, Tulip-
trees, old Larch and Scotch Firs, a very large and old Cupressus funebris, which
must have been planted on its first introduction, which has now assumed a
habit distinct altogether from the plant in its young state. A hunting-tower
on a rising ground within the park has a fine effect from beyond the lake ; and
a monument to the late Duchess is seen for many miles in all directions, even
to a point very close to Dublin. We — for there were three of us — returned
by the long avenue to Maynooth much delighted, with only one regret, that
Mr Knowldin was, like ourselves, from home.

The Squire's Gardener.

THE CULFORD VINE SPORT.

I was under the impression that the above "sport" had vanished.
I observe, however, in ' The Gardener ' for January of the present
year, that it has appeared in the past season at Brayton Hall, and
gather from the remarks referred to that Mr Hammond is doubtful
whether the Brayton " apparition " was a genuine Golden Champion
or not. I think, however, that a little consideration of the scientific
reason given for the " sport " at Culford will convince Mr H. that
the bunch with the large berries produced by his Trebbiano Yine
last season was a real Golden Champion. If I remember aright, the
appearance of Golden Champion Grape on a rod of Trebbiano at Cul-
ford was accounted for at the time on the " gemmule theory ,; by one
of the gentlemen who saw the " apparition." He supposed that a
gemmule had escaped from the rod of the Champion, and found its
way into the rod of Trebbiano, both rods having originally been
grafted on the same stock, and that, after the Champion had been
entirely cut away, the said gemmule, in due season, developed into a
bunch of Champion Grapes on a particular shoot of the Trebbiano
rod. True, the Golden Champion has some peculiar properties, but
the most singular of all is being able to reproduce itself by means of

94 THE GARDENER. [F£B-

its gemmule3 escaping into other varieties of Vines. But possibly
there is only one Champion geuimule in existence capable of doing
so, and it is to this erratic individual that the appearance of the
large-berried bunch on the Trebbiano Vine at Brayton last year is to
be attributed. AVhen the cuttings taken from the Vine that origin-
ally produced the " apparition " at Culford were sent to the Tweed
Vineyard, it is quite possible that one or other of them contained this
gemmule, and on its way north it may have thought that the atmo-
sphere of Tweedside, and the general treatment it would receive
under Mr Thomson's care, would not be favourable to its develop-
ment into a full-grown Champion. It therefore, before reaching
Carlisle, decided to remain south of the Tweed, and on arriving at
the Border City escaped from the cutting ; and instead of returning
to its old quarters at Culford, made its way to the Brayton vineries,
and there found a Trebbiano of the right sort, of which it immedi-
ately took possession, the result being as described in the number of
' The Gardener ' already referred to. And now that Mr Hammond
has apparently got possession of this wandering gemmule, I hope he
will induce it to remain at Brayton, and to become of "steady and
temperate " habits befitting the locality — not going up and down, as
hitherto, among the vineries of the nation, changing the outward
appearance of other varieties of Grapes in such a manner that even
men of " competent authority" are unable to identify a Trebbiano
from a White Tokay. It strikes me that Brayton is rather an un-
canny place ; for did not Mr Hammond show at the Carlisle show in
1877 a bunch of Buckland's Sweetwater with such abnormally large
berries that a London contemporary — a " competent authority " too
— reports of it as a Golden Champion. Beally it is high time this
gemmule was put under arrest. B.

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The monthly meeting was held in the Hall, 5 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh,
on Tuesday evening, the 7th ult. ; Mr Dunn, President, occupied the chair.
Mr John Sadler delivered a lecture on the "Fungi." This division of the
vegetable kingdom, he remarked, contained 6000 genera and 25,000 distinct
species known to botanists. They were wonderfully diverse in appearance
and very widely diffused, every organic substance, animal and vegetable,
living or dead, being liable to their attacks. After a full and clear statement
of the results of scientific research into the physiology of the more prominent
and interesting of the various classes into which they are now divided, the
lecturer proceeded to describe a number of the Mushroom or Toad-stool species,
700 of which were indigenous to Great Britain : these included the edible
kinds, which were not only palatable but wholesome. They were, however, so

1879.] NOTICES OF BOOKS. 95

far as our present knowledge goes, remarkably few in number, the great
majority having been proved to be very poisonous ; and while no absolute rule
could be laid down for distinguishing them, he had found that the dangerous
ones when tasted caused a burning sensation to the tongue ; and in urging
upon gardeners the importance of giving attention to the subject, counselled
them to exercise great caution, as fungoid poison was both insidious and fatal.
The lecture, which was listened to with the greatest attention, was illustrated
by a number of specimens, a series of beautifully executed diagrams, and a few
wax models.

A communication was read from Mr Hugh Dickson of the Belmont Nur-
series, Belfast, stating that specimens of Dracsena indivisa and Araucaria
excelsa, 10 feet and 8 feet in height respectively, in the open air, had been
killed by the frost, while a plant of Chamaarops excelsa, so far as could be
seen, was uninjured, though the thermometer had been down to zero.

Mr Alex. Macmillan, The Gardens, Broadmeadows, Berwick, sent for
exhibition cut blooms of 39 distinct varieties of Chrysanthemums, and 26
trusses of Zonale Geraniums : they were all in fine condition, and admirable
examples of good cultivation. Of these the finest were —

Chrysanthemums. — Boadicea, rose and cream, incurved petals ; Rival Little
Harry, golden amber ; Hereward, purple, back of petals silvery ; the Globe,
blush, incurved ; Bed Dragon, chestnut Bed, tipped with yellow ; Mount
Etna, white, rose tipped; Undine, cream, tipped with lilac; Chang, orange
red, back of petals yellow ; Alma, rosy purple, incurved ; Meteor, orange
yellow ; Fingal, rose violet ; Frincess of Wales, pearl white, tinted rose ;
Countess of Granville, pure white; Duke of Edinburgh, rose lilac, light centre,
incurved ; General Bainbridge, dark amber, gold centre ; Guernsey Nugget,
pale yellow ; George Peabody, pearl white, back of petals lilac, incurved ;
Emblem, rosy purple, incurved.

Geraniums. — Pirate, dark scarlet ; Henry Jacoby, very dark crimson j Lady
Byron, rosy pink, white eye; John Gibbons, orange scarlet; Mr Gladstone,
scarlet, shaded with purple ; Mrs Vickers, salmon, white eye ; Walter Scott,
bright crimson; Captain Holden, bright crimson; Little Carr, crimson
scarlet ; the Shah, scarlet, dark venation; Lizzie Brooks, salmon scarlet, white
centre ; Mrs Pearson, cerise scarlet, salmon eye.

Mr L. Dow sent a specimen of Swedish Turnip with blanched leaves,
treated in a similar way to Sea Kale, which was said to be an excellent
substitute for that vegetable.

It was intimated that papers would be read from Mr John Caie, The
Gardens, Inverary Castle, on "The Arrangement of Trees, Shrubs, and
Climbers in Pleasure Grounds," and from Mr Burns, Thingwall Hall, Birken-
head, on "Acclimatising Plants."

NOTICES OF BOOKS.

The Gardeners' Year-Book and Almanack for 1879. By Dr Robeit
Hogg, LL.D., 171 Fleet Street, London.

This welcome little annual is, as usual, replete with useful information.
In addition to a very excellent practical calendar of garden operations for
every month, it contains many excellent garden receipts, and particularly for

9G

THE GARDENER.

[Feb.

the making of home-made wines. It gives a list of the new plants, fruits,
and vegetables of 1878, and many elaborate treatises on the cultivation of
popular flowers, &e.

The Horticultural Directory (also published at 171 Fleet Street, London),
as usual, gives the full addresses of metropolitan and provincial nurserymen
and florists, and of the gardeners of the United Kingdom, with their em-
ployers' names and nearest railway station; as well as a list of botanic
gardens, public parks, botanical and floral societies, and the names of their
managers and secretaries. These two annuals should be in the hands of
every gardener.

THE WEATHER IN DECEMBER 1878.

The following are the lowest readings of the thermometer at-

25,

Chatsworth, Derbyshire — Dec. 24 and 25,

Lambton Castle, Durham,

Drumlanrig, Dumfriesshire — Dec. 23, 24, and

Eokeby Park, Yorkshire — Dec. 13,

Bray ton Hall, Cumberland — Dec. 13,

Thoresby Park, Nottinghamshire — Dec. 25,

Meldon Park, Northumberland— Dec. 20,

Tynningham, Haddingtonshire — Dec. 14,

Hope Park, Stirlingshire — Dec. 20,

Fordell, Fifeshire, ....

Margam Park, Glamorganshire, S.W.,

Glendoune, Ayrshire — Dec. 20,

St Phoenix Park, Dublin — Dec.

Shottley House, Durham,

St Ridge Park, Lanarkshire — Dec. 20,

Mr Forbes' Nursery, Hawick, Ptoxburghshire — Dec. 20, 5'

0.4
0.2"
2°- 9-'

3J

0.4C

2°. 2°' 11C

Rainfall, 1878.
Inches.

30.11
40.7

4°;

4°;

5£°.

7°.
10°.
14°.

8°:

26.46
33.18

35.24

31.6

If any of our readers have registered lower temperatures, we shall
be glad to hear of them.

PRESENTATION TO MR WILLIAM SUTHERLAND.

On the 20th December 1878 about forty gentlemen (including the leading
gardeners about Liverpool, and other friends of our valued contributor Mr
Sutherland) assembled at the Public Rooms, Aigburth, for the purpose of
making a presentation to that gentleman on the occasion of his retiring from
the management of Messrs Ker's Nursery at Grassindale, near Liverpool, to
undertake the management of Messrs Ireland & Thomson's Nurseries in
Edinburgh. The gift, which consisted of a very handsome gold watch and
appendages, was supplied by Messrs Elkington of Liverpool, and was in
recognition of the sterling character and gentlemanly demeanour of Mr
Sutherland, who, during his stay in the neighbourhood, had won the esteem,
if not the affection, of all with whom he was brought in contact.

1879.] CALENDAR. 97

Mr Francis of Rosemount presided on the occasion, with Mr Fowler as
vice-chairman ; and the presentation was made in a complimentary address by-
Mr W. Hinds of Otterspool Gardens, and was appropriately acknowledged by
Mr Sutherland.

The watch bore the inscription, "Presented to Mr Wm. Sutherland by
Liverpool gardeners and friends, as a token of their esteem and respect.
Liverpool, Dec. 20, 187S." The letters W. S. were also cut in monogram on
the outer case.

©bttuarg Notices,

We regret very much to have to record the sudden death, on the 13th January
of Mr Thomas Methven, of the firm of Messrs Methven & Sons, Edinburgh.
Mr Methven had, by his industry, professional ability, and business tact, been
eminently successful as a Nurseryman. He raised himself to a position of
usefulness and esteem as a citizen, and for some time filled the honourable
position of senior magistrate of the city of Edinburgh. During his career as a
Nurseryman, extending over a period of more than thirty years, he did very
much, by personal influence and substantial material aid, for the advancement
of Horticulture and Arboriculture. He was very widely known and much
respected among a large circle of Horticulturists and friends as a genial and
warm-hearted friend. His decease is therefore much regretted, and his sorrow-
ing family deeply sympathised with.

Many of our readers will be sorry to learn of the decease, on January 2d, of
our occasional contributor and long-valued friend, Mr A. Dawson, who began
his career of gardening at Huntly Lodge, Aberdeenshire. In 1834 he removed
to England, where he rilled several responsible situations as steward and gardener
with very much success. For thirteen years he acted in this capacity at Eood
Ashton, Wiltshire, over a large farm and garden. Eleven years since he was
appointed estate manager at Weald Hall, Essex, to Mr Towers, the son of
one of his former employers. Few men have been more highly valued and
esteemed by their employers. Mr Dawson was one of Nature's noblemen —
much more influenced by the highest aims of life than anything else, and by
which he was governed in all his relationships. Many will bear us out in
saying that those who knew him best loved him most.

©aUn&ar*

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

In most cases the stock of garden seeds I most come-at-able position possible,

will have arrived, and along with them It is a practice by many to prove their

the usual garden requisites ; and whe- seeds before sowing them — b}7 counting

ther the items may be in large or small a number of each, sowing or planting

quantity, it is well to put them in safe them in small pots, and raising them

quarters and arrange them alphabeti- in heat and moisture. In absence of

cally, either in drawers with names glass for the purpose, it may be done

outside, or on dry shelves placed in the successfully in a warm room or cup-

98

THE GARDENER.

[Feb.

board— as, when they vegetate, they
are counted and notes taken, then cast
out. Disappointments are in this way
prevented, and the good name of the
seedsmen often preserved. When sea-
sons are variable, very wet and cold,
good seeds may be destroyed in the
ground. Most seedsmen prove their
seeds before they are sent out. Ou
this practice depends their own in-
terests. It is oftener that kinds under
strong recommendations are proved to
be no better than old favourites, than
to find that seeds are bad in quality.
It may be possible that many with
limited labour - power are in arrears
with their work. The long severe
winter will, no doubt, affect many ;
but no opportunity should now be lost
in forwarding operations, whether for
forcing vegetables or preparing for
them in open garden-ground. All who
have materials and accommodation
will now be forcing the usual vege-
tables so much in request at this sea-
son. It is too often the case that some
are expected to give large supplies with
inadequate accommodation — so many
kinds requiring different treatment are
grown in the same structure. Crowd-
ing is sometimes resorted to, and then
the produce may not be so good as a
neighbour's who has every means at
command. Market-growers, who have
to be alive to economy, always adapt
their circumstances to their means : to
cram or attempt the growth of pro-
duce by means not adapted for the
purpose, is profitless and unsatisfac-
tory. Successions to "crops on the
way " must have attention. When
there is a demand all through the
forcing season, it is always safe to start
small quantities often. Rapid forcing
often defeats the object in view by
growing tops instead of roots or tubers,
as in the case of forced Radishes, Car-
rots, and Potatoes, which require very
little warmth at root, and next to
no artificial heat at top. Asparagus,
which is so easily forced, should have
a light or two filled with roots every
ten or twelve days, keeping the crowns
clear, but placing them as close to-
gether as possible; a little mild warmth
will bring the ' ' grass" forward rapidly.
Sun-heat, harvested, when there are
opportunities of turning it to account,
will now do much to forward the
crops ; but a close, stagnant atmos-
phere will do much harm by giving
weakly heads and bad flavour : a wat-

ering with tepid guano -water occa-
sionally may be of much service.
French Beans are now easily forced.
They come up rapidly and strong, and
ought to be near the glass when they
have vegetated. We prefer potting
rather firmly, using plenty of drain-
age. Whether the seed is sown in the
pots, three parts full of soil, where
they are to fruit, or in small pots to
be transferred to larger ones, warm
soil in each case is of primary import-
ance. The plants coming through the
soil strong is an indication that there
are good healthy roots, the true anti-
dote to red - spider — French Beans
being the favourite food of this pest.
Planting out in frames, pits, or other
structures, is a good practice ; labour
is saved, and large crops of Beans may
be had with little attention. Use the
syringe carefully when the plants are
in flower; give air early in the day;
avoid cold draughts ; dust a little soot
over the soil ; when roots are abund-
ant, give soot-water, guano-water, or
some other wholesome liquid, but not
thick, muddy manure - water, which
would sour the soil. A surfacing of old
mushroom - manure, rotted turf, and
manure, mixed, does well for filling up
the pots when the plants require help;
and this is the chief reason why the
seed is sown with the pots only three
parts filled with soil. Syringing with
clear soot- water — not over-strong — is
good for the plants, and an enemy to
thrips and spiders. Newington Won-
der, Osborne's Canadian Wonder, and
Sion House, are general favourites,
being very productive. Another frame
or pit for Horn Carrots may be sown
now ; or if the demand is not large, a
border, sheltered by a fence or other
means, may be prepared and sown.
Sandy soil finely broken is very suit-
able, and should be fully exposed to
sun : a sloping border is very desir-
able. A sowing of Radishes between
the Horn Carrots will come in useful.
Early-framed and French Breakfast
Radishes are very desirable kinds at
present. Protection by wire-netting
placed over a framework, or common
nets on hoops, may be necessary against
birds and mice. R^ed-lead sown with
the seed is a good preventive. Mus-
tard and Cress will have to be brought
forward in heat for some time to come.
Boxfuls, potfuls, or panfuls brought
on by weekly sowings will keep up
regular supplies. In towns where

879.]

CALENDAR.

99

other means are not available, Mus-
tard and Cress is often raised in the
kitchen, and when in leaf, is transfer-
red to the window during the day,
and brought under cover at night.
"Thread" Onions are treated in a
similar manner ; but they endure less
heat, and without air are worthless.
Capsicums may be sown in fine soil.
Sprinkle the seed thinly, and cover it
finely. Place in heat about 70° (less
would do). "When the seedlings are
up, pot singly, using warmed soil.
Water with tepid water, and grow
them with plenty of light after they
have showed signs of actual growth.
Mushrooms should be brought forward
in beds made every ten or twelve
days. This precarious crop under the
most skilful treatment fails, and often
when no trouble or care is taken,
abundant supplies are had ; and beds
coming in frequently are more likely
to meet a continuous demand than a
few large beds made during the course
of the season. Seakale and Rhubarb
may now be brought on with ease
under any system ; some have a cling-
ing to the system of covering with
leaves or other fermenting material ;
and this is a simple matter after the
crowns begin to move, their natural
season of growth having now begun.
The same may apply to Rhubarb ; its
moving naturally now and little help
bring it in fit for use. The lifting
of the roots, a custom so general with
Seakale and Rhubarb and Chicory,
may be continued till the crowns are
moving. Placed under a stage where
there is a little warmth allowed for
plants in the structure, in a frame or pit,
sufficient to keep growth moving, pro-
duce in abundance may be had at little
expense and labour. Seakale must be
kept dark, and air excluded, to have it
fine. Seakale, Beet, and Chicory and
Chicory-roots, require to be in quarters
closed in from light and air, whiteness
and tenderness being their best pro-
perties. Tomatoes now in heat for
summer supplies should be kept near
the glass. Pot them firmly, as the
roots require room, and always give
air when the state of the weather will
allow it. Those fruiting must have
their useless growths rubbed off before
they get to any size. The plants
should not be allowed to bear heavy
crops at this season, as there is yet
little action at the roots to sustain

many fruit on one plant. Herbs in
demand at this season in a green state
are easily brought forward, by potting
a few in any ordinary soil, giving
them a little warmth, and sprink-
ling them occasionally with the
syringe or fine rose of a water-
ing-pot ; a watering at the roots to
moisten all the soil is necessary. The
kinds in request are Tarragon, Mint,
Fennel, and some Sorrel, to keep a
supply of fresh leaves. Celery may
be sown for a small early supply.
This is often destroyed for want of
light and air, accompanied with a high
temperature. We have found the
treatment given to Radishes, Carrots,
and Potatoes in frames, raise seedling
Celery well. Extremes and sudden
changes destroy the vitality of the
young plants, and render them worth-
less by their premature running to
seed. Sow seed of Cabbage, Savoy,
Kale, or Borecole (Greens in some
northern localities), Leek, Brussels
Sprouts, Lettuce, Cauliflower, and
Parsley, on a warm, deeply-dug border.
These will come in early for first sup-
ply. The seeds, sown on a dry day,
and covered with fine kindly soil
about the middle of the month, will
vegetate freely. Hoops on which
mats can be placed for shelter, will do
much for their benefit during severe
weather. Handlights, shallow frames,
or frame-lights placed on bricks, are
of much value where better protection
is not afforded. Get land prepared,
by trenching, digging, and manuring,
for crops as speedily as circumstances
will allow. The plain crop of Onions
may be sown on well-trenched ground
made firm on the surface. SowT thinly
in rows 1 foot to 18 inches apart (ac-
cording to strength of ground) ; cover
them very lightly. The soil ought to
be finely broken ; and dry Celery-
ground, well trenched, is very suitable
for Onions. Parsnips may also be
sown for main crop, but one must be
guided by the wreather and state of
the soil. Sow Peas and Broad Beans
twice during the month. Spinach
may be sown between them ; or the
Peas a good distance apart, and Beans
between them. Peas and Beans in
boxes must be kept growing slowly
by allowing them plenty of air and
light. Let every growing crop be
stirred with a hoe or prong to keep the
soil open. M. T.

100

THE GARDENER.

[Feb.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — Early Queens from which
ripe fruits are required in May and
June, and that have been subjected
to increased top and bottom heat as
directed in our Calendar for January,
should, if all goes rightly, have the
embryo fruits discernible in their
centres by the end of this month.
Probably the cold weather, and con-
sequent more moderate temperature,
may keep them a little later. Be that
as it may, let each plant be examined,
and as soon as the fruit is seen, give
them as much weak guano-water as
will thoroughly wet the ball if they
are dry. But in the case of any
plants that do not show fruit, it is
best to withhold water until they do
start, or they may make a growth
before they start, and consequently be
retarded beyond the time they are
wanted. The sun having more power
now, and there being more chances
of shutting up with sun-heat, the tem-
peratures in mild nights may run up
to 75° at 10 p.m., allowing it to drop
5° or 8° before daylight. But should
cold frosty nights prevail, be satisfied
with 5° less. The atmosphere may be
kept more moist — not by steaming the
pipes, but by sprinkling .the paths,
&c, from whence it evaporates more
gradually. As daylight increases,
fruit that started late in October and
early in November may be pushed on
move briskly, shutting up the house
early, so as to run the heat up over 80°
for a time, always accompanied with a
corresponding amount of air moisture.
The bottom-heat for these should be
kept at from 85° to 90°, and the soil
be regularly and moderately moist,
applying weak guano-water every time
they require watering. Early autumn
suckers that are in 6 and 7 inch
pots should now be examined ; and if
their balls are at all matted with
health v roots, they should be put into
their fruiting-pots by the end of the
month. If at all dry, water them at
once, and keep them moderately moist ;
and when shifted, see that they are in
a medium condition in this respect.
The soil for potting these should be
put into some place to warm and
become rather dry before it is used.
It should consist of a moderately light
loam that has been stacked for six

months or more, and from which most
of the fine earthy matter has been
shaken. To every 2 bushels of soil
add an 8 -inch potful of bone-meal
and a G - inch potful of dry fresh
soot. Later suckers will now require
more water, a moister atmosphere, and
a slightly higher temperature. The
night temperature may be advanced to
65° ; and if the bottom-heat is below
80°, let means be taken to increase it
by 8° or 10°. Keep plants intended to
start into fruit in March still rather
cool and dry.

Vines. —Especially during the day,
and when the vinery can be shut up
early with sun-heat, the forcing ■ of
early Grapes from pot- Vines may now
be carried on more briskly. Under
such circumstances the heat may run
to 80° for a time in the afternoon —
the fires being quickened in time to
prevent it from sinking below 70°
at 10 p.m., allowing it to drop to 60°
at daylight. "When the weather is
cold, a lower midnight-temperature is
much preferable. All rapid forcing, to
be successful, should be done under
the influence of sun-heat. Give these
a little air early in the day, gradually
increasing it till noon, when it should
be gradually reduced, and the house
shut closely for a few hours in the
afterpart of the day, and at dusk
putting on a chink of fresh air, ac-
cording to the state of the external
temperature. Whenever the berries
attain the size of Padish-seed, thin
them, and avoid over-cropping : six
good bunches on a pot- Vine will be
much more satisfactory than a half
more. Give a dessert-spoonful of Stan-
den's Manure every week, and water
with clear manure-water every alter-
nate time, keeping the balls regularly
moist. Thin off all superfluous bunches
from advancing crops on perman-
ent Vines, leaving bunches that are
compact and short. The night tem-
perature all through this month is
sufficiently high at 60° : unless the
weather be mild, it may go to 65°,
managing as regards sun-heat and ven-
tilation as directed for pot-Vines. If
the chief part of the roots are in inside
borders, see that they are kept moist,
and water occasionally with manure-
water. Supply sufficient moisture to

1879.

CALENDAR.

101

the air to keep it healthily moist,
but avoid a steamy state of the atmo-
sphere. Tie down the shoots of later
Vines, and stop those that are still
later at two joints beyond the best
bunch, and the laterals at the first
leaf. Start succession-houses, observ-
ing the conditions laid down in for-
mer Calendars. Prune all Vines from
which the Grapes are cut, dressing
all wounds with styptic, cleaning and
otherwise putting all connected with
them in a state ready to be started
when the time for it arrives. Ex-
amine Grapes that are still hanging
on the latest Vines, removing all ber-
ries that show signs of decay. Keep
the house dry, and the temperature
as steady as possible at about 45° at
night. Any that are bottled in fruit-
rooms should also have a steady tem-
perature and dry atmosphere, and the
bottles kept full or nearly so of water.
Put the requisite number of Vine-eyes
into heat about the 10th of the month,
inserting them singly in 4-inch pots,
plunging them in a bottom -heat of 80°,
in a light pit, in a temperature of 60°
to begin with.

Peaches. — Should the weather be
cold, do not increase the temperatures
recommended last month for the early
trees. Peaches should never be sub-
jected to what may be termed hard
forcing until after the fruit are stoned.
Syringe the trees with tepid water
every fine afternoon, and otherwise
keep the air genially moist. Where
the fruit have set thickly, thin off all
the smallest first. Disbud the young
growths by degrees, ultimately leaving,
in the case of well-furnished trees, a
strong bud at the base of last year's
shoot, and of course the terminal bud.
Give air every fine day, and shut up
early, so that the thermometer runs
up 10° or 15° above the tempera-
ture proper for the night, which should
not exceed 60°. Let the inside border
be kept moist. Give trees in bloom a
free circulation of air when not frosty.
Avoid the application of much fire-heat,
and be satisfied with 55° as a night
temperature. Houses started this
month may have a few degrees more
heat to begin with than is judicious
earlier in the season. If any trees
remain unpruned and untied in late
houses, complete such work without

delay. Keep the latest still cool and
well aired, but see that all borders
under glass are well moistened ; for if
allowed to get too dry, the trees may
drop their buds before they expand.

Figs. — Early trees in pots will now
be pushing freely, and every care must
be taken to keep them moist at the
root, and to supply the air with mois-
ture. Syringe freely every day at shut-
ting-up time. Air rather freely on fine
days, to keep the shoots strong. Now
is a good time to start permanent
trees from which two crops are to be
taken. Give them a moist atmosphere,
and a temperature of 55° at night to
commence with.

Melons. — The early plants will be
ready to plant this month. Let the
soil be a rather strong loam, with about
a fifth part of well-rotted manure well
mixed with it. Train the plants up
the wires with one stem until within a
foot of the top, and then stop them.
Do not give very much water at this
early season, or they may make un-
fruitful growth. The night tempera-
ture should range about 70°, with a
rise of 10° by day with sun. Sow at
the beginning and near the end of the
month for successional crops.

Cucumbers. — See last month's di-
rections. Increase the heat slightly,
and chiefly by day. Early plants will
be ready to plant out this month. Use
a rather light soil, with a fourth part of
well-rotted manure. Do not give too
much soil at first, but rather increase
the quantity by degrees as the roots
show at the sides of the hills. If the
weather be frosty, air will have to be
carefully given, so that no breath of
frosty air reaches the foliage. Bear-
ing plants will now require more
moisture, both at the root and in
the air.

Strawberries in Pots. — In mild
weather those which have set their
fruit may have the temperature in-
creased to 60° in cold and 65° in mild
nights. They will also require a more
plentiful supply of water, and must
never be allowed to get too dry.
Plants in bloom should not have more
heat at night than 55° until set.
Continue to introduce succession lots
of plants fortnightly, according to the
accommodation for forcing and the
stock of plants.

102 THE GARDENER. [Feb. 1879.

Ilotkcs to (torespon&Mte.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in • The Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not for
publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and address
of writer.

We have to thank several correspondents for their valued papers, unavoidably
postponed for want of space.

Gardener. — Rasps ought to do well with you on a north border — much
better thau in the garden quarter, where you say the soil is loose and light.
Manure and work the ground well, and afterwards never dig, but spread the
manure on the surface and merely fork the surface, mixing in the manure with
the surface soil, but never disturbing the roots.

E. St A. — Divide your Christmas Ptoses either in autumn or immediately
they are done flowering — the latter time is probably the best. A loamy soil
of medium character as to stiffness suits them best, and they do well in slightly
shaded positions, but are not particular in the latter respect.

J. H. — A paper on Violets in our next issue.

Correspondent, Portree. — The saddle is considered one of the very best
forms of boilers, and certainly we do not advise you to take it out. There must
be something connected with the arrangement of the pipes, or the flues round
the boiler, but what the fault is we cannot say unless you send us a correct
plan of the pipes and boiler, or describe them. A very small saddle-boiler
would heat four times 120 feet of pipes.

C. B. A. — No. 1, Elreagnus japonica aurea ; No. 2, Andromeda floribun da ;
No. 3, Without flowers cannot determine ; No. 4, Hedera Helix tricolor.

R. H. — Try paraffine at the rate of six dram-glasses to four gallons of water.
Keep it well mixed when applying it for the ants. We are presuming that
there are no roots in the way. Also lay down flat pieces of soft glazier's putty,
to which they will go in thousands, and can there be destroyed.

Vera. — We cannot say what is the cause of your Crocuses coming up as you
describe. They will probably come right by-and-by.

R. E. S., Laurencekirk. — The following are 24 Gladiolus, all for exhibition
varieties: — Grace Darling, Marshal Bazaine, Lycoris, Octavie, Ossian, Rosa
Bonheur, Sir J. Paxton, Dr Hogg, Duchess of Edinburgh, Le Vesuve, Scopas,
Sir G. Nares, Horace Vernet, A. Verschaffelt, Rev. J. Berkeley, Queen Mary,
Hercules, Astree, Virginalis, Eurydice, Princess Mary, Michel Ange, Shakes-
peare, Sappho.

Amateur will find the following 12 early and 12 late Phloxes well worthy
of his attention : —

12 early-flowering : Forerunner, Lady Musgrave, Mrs James Young, Mr
Archibald Fowler, Mauve Queen, Beauty, Gem, Mrs Hunter, Dowager-Duchess
of Athole, Luna, Magnum Bonum, Swan.

12 late-flowering : Alexander Shearer, George Smith, Uncle Andrew, John
Anderson, Thomas Peacock, Vesuvius, Chanzy, Coccinea, Madam Maissoneaux,
Mrs Aberdeen, Kesplendens, Oscar Beyer.

THE

GARDENER.

MARCH 1879.

VINES IN PITS FOR EARLY FORCING.

HE cultivation of Vines in pots for early forcing — now an
established custom in gardens — was perhaps the best idea
that ever suggested itself to modern cultivators of the
Grape Vine. It has saved the permanent Vines in early-
houses from being forced at an unnatural season, and it is always
a ready means of filling up a gap temporarily when other resources
have failed. It is also an excellent plan of utilising space, for a
season or so, after young Vines have been planted in new houses,
as well as affording scope for variety in cases where aspirants to
Grape-culture in a small way desire to have mixed subjects in the
same house.

"We refer briefly to the advantages of pot-Vine culture, not with
the idea of giving an introductory harangue, but with a wholesome
dread of some one who has been well served by the system misunder-
standing our intention — which is not that of suggesting a plan which
would supersede the pot- Vine system, but simply to suggest a plan
that would supplement it.

The idea of forcing Vines in pits first suggested itself to us on
account of our being engaged in weeding out an old place ; and it is
well known that it would be inevitable ruin to permanent Vines to
force them early the second or third year after planting. Pot-Grapes
are very good and most useful through the month of April and the
early part of the month of May ; but after that date they compare
badly with produce cut from established Vines.

We would therefore recommend extended root -room for early

104 THE GARDENER. [March

Vines, where such space is available, and where the production of
early Grapes of good quality is expected and appreciated. The style
of forcing-pit which we have used for this purpose is span-roofed, and
is 11 feet wide, with a path up the centre — width of bed for soil,
3 -J feet, and depth 3 feet, including G inches for drainage. A greater
depth of bed can easily be secured where it is considered necessary,
by sinking the drainage below the path and running a drain up the
centre of the bed, with a gradual fall to whichever end there is the
best and easiest outlet for a clear watercourse. For our own part, we
are content with 6 inches of drainage, and 2| feet of soil, for a tem-
porary purpose like the one recommended, which is in principle only
an extension of the pot-Vine system. Too much rooting space would
just be as bad as too little, because, in the former case, Vines are apt
to grow too vigorously for the first two or three years. To produce
compact, well-coloured bunches, the aim should therefore be to hit
upon that degree of extension which, under ordinary careful treat-
ment, would induce such a condition of root-growth as would be fav-
ourable to, and promote a moderate and fertile development in, the
branches. This is characterised by what is termed short-jointed
canes in nurserymen's catalogues; and the condition, whether absent
or present, may be ascribed rather to the system of ventilation and
atmospheric treatment than to the natural or mechanical nature of
the soil.

Vines like obstruction at the root ; and resistance is especially de-
sirable in the case we are treating of. Who that has had much to do
with the management of Vines has not noticed how, when a young
root comes in contact with a piece of brickbat, and its course is im-
peded, it coils itself round the rubble and breaks up into a number of
small hardy fibres, which give real sustenance, increased vitality, and
fruiting power to the Vine.

Practice has taught us, in Vine-growing more than in anything
else, the conditions which are most favourable in producing tem-
porary or permanent results ; and there is no condition more ap-
parent or obviously necessary than that of providing the Vine with
feeders which come into play at once when the object is a temporary
one. If this be so — and there is abundant proof that it is — in mak-
ing the border there ought to be a quantity of broken rubble mixed
with the soil, and no manurial matter added whatever. The border
being made, the next matter to be decided is the selection of such
varieties of Grapes as are already tested, and are known to be early
in their different kinds and of acknowledged quality. Such a selec-
tion would be found in Black Hamburg, Madresfield Court, Duke of
Buccleuch, and Foster's Seedling ; and if space could be found for

1879.] VINES IN PITS FOR EARLY FORCING. 105

Chasselas Musque, and one or two Frontignans (which are being
inquired after, and are soon destined to resume their undoubted posi-
tion in point of excellence among early Grapes), so much the better.

We have planted Madresfield Court one year, and fruited it the
next, on the principle recommended, in company with Black Ham-
burg and Foster's Seedling, and it carried six handsome bunches
which were ready for table in June — the Hamburg being fit for use
a month earlier. This Grape deserves a house to itself ; and with
Duke of Buccleuch along with it, would furnish such Grapes for
dessert as would enhance the estimate of early Grapes, and encourage
and enlarge the area of early forcing.

With respect to Vines for planting, we would treat the matter on a
commercial basis rather than on personal notions. Accommodation is
everything, and Vines can be grown too dear where space is limited.
Vines that can be purchased from a nurseryman at a reduced price
at this season of the year are much cheaper to those who require
the space that would be occupied in growing young Vines from
eyes. Take a crop of Melons, for instance, a single fruit of which
is not to be purchased of any worth much under a guinea before
the beginning of June • compare the relative value of each crop, and
there is a very handsome margin, commercially speaking, in favour
of buying the Vines: but there are others who may think differently,
and it is therefore better to take both sides of the question. If the
Vines are to be purchased, this should be done some time between
^November and February. They can be turned out of their pots,
which will save something in carriage, and be repotted again after
arriving at their destination. This being done, they should be cut
down to within two or three eyes of their base, and be kept on the
dry side until they are required to be started, say at the beginning
of February, when they should be well watered — that is, to moisten
all the soil in the pot, and allow it to become mellow in a cool house,
before the Vines are excited into action. After the buds break, a
thorough watering will need to be given, so as to moisten every
particle of soil in the pot ; and growth should be advanced as circum-
stances will permit. In case the Vines are not purchased before the
month of March, or even later, it is not a matter of such consequence;
only the Vines must not be cut down, but be introduced into heat at
once, and be disbudded to the required distance. We have planted
Vines from February up to the end of July in the way above de-
scribed, and all have done well; it is just a matter of choice and cir-
cumstances with the cultivator. We never plant Vines except when
growing ; and of course, for early work, the sooner the Vines are
started into growth the sooner will they be ripened and ready for

106 THE GARDENER. [March

starting the following year. The border being ready for planting,
and its temperature tested with the aid of a ground thermometer,
in order that the roots may not receive a check through being
planted in soil of a lower temperature than that in which they have
been growing, the Vines should be planted at a distance of 3 feet
apart, for reasons which shall be referred to towards the end of our
remarks.

In planting the Vines, it is important to have all the ball of earth
in an equable moist state, so that when it is pricked with a sharp-
pointed stick it will mould down in the hands. All that is neces-
sary is to prick the outer surface of the ball of earth and remove the
soil on the surface of the ball down to the roots, and disentangle
the latter, laying them out at equal distances. Over the bed of soil
shake a little fine earth amongst the roots, and press firmly, making
the whole bed of soil and the ball of earth of equal firmness.

There is no advantage, but rather the reverse, gained by shaking
the balls of earth to pieces, if this important matter is not attended
to and skilfully performed. Neither is there much objection to shak-
ing them out if people desire to do so, if the season is not too far
advanced, and the Vines have not made too much leaf-growth. After
planting, water at a temperature of 85°, and mulch the surface of the
border with about an inch deep of horse-droppings.

Vines from eyes for planting in a similar way can either be pur-
chased when about a foot long, or, indeed, at any time up to mid-
summer, when it is safe to remove them. If they are grown at home,
they should be grown on Mr William Thomson's plan of inserting
the eyes in pieces of square turves. A hole is made in the centre of
the piece of turf, and a little sharp sand put into it, and the Vine
eye pressed down into the sand, leaving the " eye " peeping above
the soil.

The turves should be laid on the surface of a bed, with a gentle
warmth, and moistened over occasionally with a syringe : this is all
the labour necessary for a considerable time, until the eyes calyx at
either extremity of their base and emit roots shortly afterwards.

As soon as the roots increase in number, and are travelling over
the surface of the turves, a layer of sifted earth should be laid over
them : this, of course, will fall away when the turves are separated
individually, and leave a healthy mass of roots ready for planting out
in the border. We have kept Vines on turves in this way to the
end of May, until an early crop of Grapes was cleared from old Vines
and a new border made ready for planting. But it is safer when
such a case is anticipated to grow the Vines in pots, and plant the
ball of earth intact. We have now, as it were, the Vines planted and

1879.] VINES IN PITS FOR EARLY FORCING. 107

growing apace, and as soon as the roots are found to be at work, they
should be pinched at a joint or so from the point, and the lateral
growth removed from beside the base bud. Some growers allow the
rod to travel to the length of 5 or 6 feet, or to its fruiting length,
before stopping it ; but I always remark that when young Vines are
stopped at an early stage of growth, they are supplying themselves
with roots during the temporary stand-still, and they rush away with
increased vigour afterwards.

During the growing season the roots of the Vines should be liber-
ally supplied with water, and be carefully ventilated. As regards
the length between the joints of a Vine, or the breadth or substance
of its leaves, it is a matter entirely dependent upon judicious ven-
tilation and atmospheric conditions. If half the Vines in the coun-
try got more water at the root, and double the amount of air that
they generally get, and about half the amount of atmospheric moisture,
I venture to predict that results in the majority of cases would be
different from what they are. The fact is, we have got so accustomed
to habitual syringing, that we keep Vines growing and extending their
shoots long after they would of their own free will settle down to
solidify the growth they had made, and plump up their fruiting-buds
with the sap that is expended in after-growths and laterals.

As the Vines progress, it will be seen whether they require the
assistance of liquid manure at the root ; and this should be applied
when growth is, so to speak, on the wane, so that the fruiting-buds
will benefit by the application, and not the surplus growth that is to
be cut away at pruning-time. Ripen off carefully, and remove the
sashes, where it is practicable, for a month or six weeks during the
autumn. The system would be found to be a great relief where
alterations are going on, or to relieve the strain on early houses
which are declining in vigour ; besides, the Vines — unlike those in
pots — will bear two good crops of fruit, and will^ answer better the
second year than the first, as they can be forced earlier the second
season.

It is recommended that the Vines should be planted 3 feet
apart — for this reason : that a young rod could be worked up from
the base of each Vine, so that the cultivator might choose between
the rod and the spur system, or arrange matters in such a way as to
give both plans a trial. AVe have tried both ways, and can vouch for
either yielding good results. "W. Hinds.

108 THE GARDENER. [March

NOTES ON THE CULTURE OF THE PANSY.

Poets Lave immortalised the Pansy. But the Pansy of the poet and
the Pansy of the florist differ somewhat. " The Pansy freaked with
jet" is the poet's flower. The subject of these notes is of roundest
form, its markings distinctly defined, its " eye " without fault — the
Pansy of the florist. Offspring of that of the poet, the Pansy of the
florist has inherited the sentimental traditions which cluster round its
name. To some it is known simply as " heart's-ease ; " to their ears
" Pansy " is a meaningless sound. To many, the simple seedling forms,
flourishing in lowly beauty, give as much pleasure in the mass of blooms
they individually bear as would the more refined sorts. And, more-
over, the finer-named sorts make a call on the time and attention which
a large class of amateur gardeners do not care to meet. From the pro-
minent position the florist-flower section occupies in the business of
seedsmen, the number of Pansies, as also of other florist-flowers culti-
vated from seed, must be considerable, and consequently prove a means
of no slight value for encouraging a love for flowers. It is, of course,
of the first importance to secure a supply of seed from a good strain
and a reliable source ; but having got so far, the best means of raising a
healthy lot of plants is of almost as much importance. Believing this,
the directions for propagating plants from seed are made full and plain ;
and although referring particularly to the seed-bed being in the open,
the advantage of a cold frame may be taken where such can be had.
As the young plants need not be removed from the seed-bed till the
spring after sowing, a sheltered position should be chosen for the bed.
Provided the soil is in ordinary good condition, all that will be neces-
sary to do by way of preparing the bed will be met by pointing in a
dressing of dry decayed manure of an open nature. If the weather is
droughty, and water required, apply the water in the morning, and
after noon sow the seed. The seed requires to be very thinly scattered
over the bed, in order to secure plenty of space for the growth of the
young plants. Cover the seeds with a very thin sprinkling of fine soil,
then tread the bed over moderately firm. These measures will do
much to produce a dwarf and slow growth in the plants, calculated to
stand the changes of winter with impunity ; and in spring lift with
balls of netted root-work. But we must return to the bed, and finish
there. Directions have been given as to moistening the soil in case of
dryness. Now, as a means of keeping the soil in an equable state of
moisture, cover the bed with mats or other suitable material. With this
precaution, no further watering will be required, and the seeds will in
due time germinate, when the coverings will be no longer necessary.
August is a good time to sow ; and the following February the plants
will be ready to transplant into their flowering positions. In June
they will commence to flower, and, under good cultivation, will continue
flowering till stopped by inclement weather. Seedlings may be also

1879.] NOTES ON THE CULTURE OF THE PANSY. 109

successfully raised in spring. I use boxes filled with a rich open compost
for this season, and place them in a structure where a mild heat is kept
up. When sufficiently strong they are pricked off" into other boxes, and
kept growing till, in April, they are finally planted out. These bloom
later than those treated as biennials, but do equally well in other
respects.

With regard to the propagation of named sorts from slips with or
without roots, the enthusiastic florist who desires a continuous supply
of first-rate blooms, must, with an alteration of terms suitable to the
circumstances, appropriate to himself the laird's advice to his son, and
be " aye stickin' in " cuttings. And just a word as to the best kind of
cuttings. I like them about 2 inches in length, and stocky. These
are much better root-producers, and make better plants than those of
much greater length. Plants to flower early in the year should be pro-
pagated early in autumn, and planted out about the end of September.
Another batch of cuttings taken in the beginning of October will be
ready for planting in February following, and will succeed the first-
mentioned lot. To succeed these, another batch of cuttings must be
struck in spring — this time in a frame ; and yet another strike is re-
quired for a late bloom. These should be selected with roots attached,
and pricked into very rich root-producing soil. Growers not so anxious
to keep a stock of young blooming plants going should propagate in
October, and plant out in February, when, with a little attention to the
plants in removing seed-capsules, and keeping a thin supply of young
growths, with the necessary cultivation of course, a continuous supply
of flowers will be had to the end of the season.

Pansies flourish in all kinds of soil; but in order to have them at their
best, the Pansy fancier — " Amateur," a Frenchman would designate
him — will be at some trouble to gain that end. In some soils it will
be unnecessary to do more than dig in a rich dressing ; but in soils of a
poor nature more pains must be taken in preparing the bed. I would
recommend the ground to be deeply trenched in autumn; at the same
time working in a liberal dressing of manure whilst the trenching is
proceeded with. In spring, 4 inches of the surface-soil should be
thrown out, and a compost of fresh loam, decayed manure, and soot
thrown into its place, and mixed with the natural soil to the depth of
9 inches. A mulching of spent mushroom-dung, with a little soot
added, should be applied to the surface of the soil immediately the
plants have been got into their places. Twelve by fifteen inches is a
good distance to set out the plants.

Where particularly fine blooms are desired, there is no better plan
than I have seen followed by growers in Berwickshire. They have a
set of open frames, which are filled with a compost in which the plants
are grown ; and they have the plants, therefore, entirely under control.
Where slugs abound, a gutter is run round the frame, and kept always
full of water. Blooms for exhibition should be shaded seven or eight

110 THE GARDENER. [March

days before the day of show. Some growers cut the blooms the night
before they are wanted. The tubes for holding the flowers are made of
a particular shape, to suit the conformation of the spur and calyx, and
the angle at which the flower lies from the stem.

The " fancy " kinds have now been brought to such a high state of
perfection, and are, withal, such free and continuous bloomers, that, to
the general lover of flowers, I would strongly recommend these in pre-
ference to the older, though perhaps more refined, " show " varieties,
making an exception of some of the " self "-coloured flowers in that
section, which are very well worth growing alongside the " fancy "
varieties. Of course I have no objection myself to the various sections
of show sorts — growing, as I do, a large selection of them ; but to that
great body of florists unconcerned about the nice little points which
to the real florist make up the qualities of a flower, there is a far
greater amount of pleasure to be got out of the sections recommended
than if " show " sorts were added. To all who love and grow flowers
I would offer this advice : Add the Pansies to the list of your favour-
ites as soon as possible, if you have not already done so, giving your
nurseryman leave to select the kind you require, and you will be
highly gratified with this addition to your floral friends.

R. P. Brotherston.

THREE IJEW ORCHIDS.

Among the many new and rare plants exhibited for the first time
at the meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society at South Ken-
sington during the past year, were the following Orchids : Den-
drobium superbiens, Calanthe Sedenii, and Lselia anceps alba — all
alike being unanimously awarded first-class certificates by the Com-
mittee. They are perfectly distinct (the first and last more especially)
from any known variety of the species or genus to which they respec-
tively belong; and what is of primary importance, can easily be grown
by a mere tyro in Orchid culture, and must eventually become very
popular.

Dendrobium superbiens was exhibited by Mr B. S. Williams, on
15th January, and was at once pronounced to be of great sterling worth.
It is of the D. bigibbum type, but is totally distinct from it. The
growth is upright and cane-like, — when well grown, fully 4 feet
in length. The gracefully drooping floral spikes — borne near the
summit of the growth — consist in some instances of from twelve
to sixteen flowers, the prevailing colour of which is a rich mauve.
There may be said to be several varieties of it, the colour of some
being of a rosy purple, others rosy lilac, and the petals sometimes
faintly " wired " with white. A very remarkable quality it possesses,

1879.] HARDY FRUITS. Ill

is the extraordinary duration of bloom, which lasts fully three
months, and sometimes still longer. Being a native of Australia, it
does not require a high temperature at any time, very little skill
being required to grow it to perfection. Mr Bull has a splendid
display of this grand mid-winter flowering Orchid.

Calanthe Sedenii, exhibited by the Messrs Yeitch on 19th November,
is a hybrid raised by that firm, and is the result of a cross between
C. vestita and C. Veitchii. It is of vigorous growth, the spike
strong and gracefully curved j and the flowers, larger and richer than
any of the species, are of a deep rose, tinged with magenta, increasing
in intensity as they age to a still deeper tinge, and margined with
white in the throat. With this variety, Messrs Veitch exhibited
spikes of C. Veitchii, and the contrast afforded abundant proof of
the decided superiority of C. Sedenii, and which may be fairly con-
sidered a great acquisition to this extremely useful class of plants.

Lselia anceps alba is a nearly pure white var., the only exception
being a yellow blotch in the throat. The flower in other respects
closely resembles L. anceps, but the pseudo-bulbs and leaves are
smaller. It is a native of Mexico, and plants of it were found grow-
ing on precipitous rocks at an altitude of 8000 feet above the sea-
level, where, as can be imagined, the cold is oftentimes intense. It
might not inaptly be termed one of the coolest of cool Orchids ; it
certainly is one of the brightest gems to be found under this classi-
fication. A Southern Correspondent.

HARDY FRUITS.

The ground in which fruit-trees are growing might, with advantage,
be tested as to the state of its drainage. This remark may apply
more to orchards than gardens : the coating of moss over the bark
of so many trees, and the stunted wood, with dead and dying points,
seen in so many orchards, show clearly where the fault is. After
floods, one may notice how long the water is in disappearing from
the surface, and how difficult it is to perform the work of pruning dur-
ing the winter months by the quagmire-like soil of the orchard. It
is labour well spent to drain such places, and it can be done without
materially damaging the roots — drains running across the ground
about 20 to 25 yards apart, emptying themselves with a fall into a main
drain, which should descend to ground of a lower level, running clear
from the roots of all trees. We had to deal with an orchard and planta-
tion some time ago, which were ruined by allowing ditches to become
stopped ; the trees have been dying for years, when a little alteration
of the ditches would have saved them.

112 THE GARDENER. [March

When there are arrears in pruning, planting, or any other operation,
it would be well to make every effort to overtake what has been lost ;
better do the work "late than never." Get all pruning finished.
Peaches and Nectarines which are left to the last should be finished as
early as circumstances will allow ; as they bear on the wood formed
last year, a number of the best placed shoots should be left. Regu-
larity and neatness are objects of greater moment towards fine crops
than some seem to recognise. It is seldom one sees Peaches trained
in a systematic manner, so that from 10 inches from the ground
to the top of the wall regular supplies of fine fruit may be had.
Wherever there are gross shoots they may be cut out, as such wood
never becomes fruitful. Protection for these and other trees by nets,
tiffany, and other makeshifts should be put on. The most important
part of this protection is to keep the trees back as much as possible,
so that the flower-buds open late, and in a measure escape frosts.
Placing the protection at night and pulling it up during the day often
does more harm than good : strong sunshine is so likely to excite the
buds they are better partially shaded during the day. We have seen
so little advantage — even to those who advocate flimsy protection —
that we doubt if it pays for half the labour. When trees are all
fastened to the walls, and before the flowers open, it may be well to
give a syringing of Ghishurst Compound all over the trees at intervals
of several days — tobacco powder, sulphur, and soap-suds does very
well ; this often acts as a prevention to insects taking up their quarters
on the trees, and coming out in strong force during summer. Figs
may be uncovered by degrees, but some branches of Spruce or Laurel
may be left on for some time to come. " Sudden excitement " means
" sudden destruction." It may be necessary to look over some of the
early Plums and Apricots with a view to disbudding them. All the
shoots coming right out from the trees may be rubbed off as a begin-
ning. Clearing off young growths (as the foliage begins to expand) in a
wholesale manner does not only check the functions of the tree,
but causes fruit to drop, and exposes it to frost and destructive
winds. With young trees, and where no fruit-buds are on the shoots,
we prefer going over the trees, picking out the wood-buds as soon as
they begin to move into growth, leaving those placed on the leading
shoots which are likely to fit closely to the walls ; any leading shoots
tending to become gross are stopped at every few joints to give the wood
lower on the tree an opportunity of improving. Where wires are used
in preference to tying the branches to nails, or the older system
of using shreds of cloth, it is well, while the necessary attentions are
paid to the developing of the growths, that the branches are not allowed
to rest on the wires tightly, or be tied too close to them. Those un-
acquainted with the method of dealing successfully with wires often
allow mischief to be done to the wood and bark, and then wiring is
denounced. Double the girth of the wood should be used in each tie to

1 879.] HARDY FRUITS. 113

allow room for swelling ; sharp twine, and similar dangerous material,
should be avoided for tying purposes.

" Examples of Wiring," in a contemporary, have been given by Mr
Sheppard of Wolverston (one of the most successful gardeners we are
acquainted with) ; and the crossing of the wires, as given according to
the plan of Mr S., is a system superior to our own in every sense,
though we are greatly pleased with the latter — the first expense is so
small for wiring — and its being permanent is more economical than
the untidy method of drawing nails, &c. The elasticity of the wire
now commonly used fits closely and tightly to the walls, so that the
shoots may be safe from draughts of cold air passing between them
and the walls, which seem to have perplexed divers cultivators.
Where mulching, staking, and firming the soil to roots of newly-
planted trees remain undone, let such important work have atten-
tion as soon as the soil is dry on the surface. Gooseberries, Currants,
and Raspberries still unpruned may be pruned as early as possible. The
system of leaving these late, to make up for the mischief done by birds, is,
we think, a questionable practice, and we have never patronised it much.
A wash of cow-manure, lime, and soot we never saw fail in keeping the
feathered tribe at bay, when painted over the branches or syringed on
them. When Gooseberries are pruned, the most upright-growing shoots
should be retained where they are required, spurring closely to the
main branches, always removing any stunted old shoots when healthy
young ones are there to take their place. The same remarks may be
applied to Red and White Currants ; but they remain longer in vigour
when spurred than Gooseberries. We have rejuvenated many Currant
bashes by introduction of new wood when they have been doomed to
the fire. Lifting Currants and Gooseberries is a good practice ; mulch-
ing thickly over their roots when all suckers are cleared away brings the
feeders near to the surface ; a reduction of watery growths and finer
fruit are the result. The lifting also reduces the evil of bushes dying
off suddenly. Black Currants simply require thinning regularly, leav-
ing the centres rather open ; topping any shoots growing too high, or
what is better,' cutting them out, leaving straight sturdy growths to
take their place as leaders. When pruning Rasps, leave from four to six
of the best canes to a stool ; they may be trained over as arches, tied to
upright stakes, or, what we prefer to any system, training them in rows
to several lines of wire placed horizontally, strongly fastened to oaken
or iron uprights. A thick coating of manure placed over the roots of
Rasps is of great advantage to them. Their natural position in a wild
state is in shady bog-lands, where they are cool at root. Cuttings
of Gooseberries and Currants, to keep up a stock, may now be made
and planted. About 15 inches of strong wood, with top cut off and
three eyes left, is a good useful size. All buds but those at top are
picked off with knife and cut clean below a joint at base. They
should be planted in rows firmly. Strawberries may be top-dressed

114 THE GARDENER. [March

with half-rotted manure. Some put on manure of a littery character,
and allow it to wash clean preparatory for the fruit. We think a little
clean straw preferable when placed just as the fruit is set.

In the orchard-house active measures to get the trees ready for fruit-
ing should be taken, so that when buds are advanced they may not be
in danger of being knocked off. Clear all inert soil from the surface of
the roots. Put drainage right. Wash the pots, and surface with healthy
loam, three parts, one part of cow-manure, and a portion of bone-meal
mixed with the compost ; a little coarse sand allows the water to perco-
late freely when mixed in the surface-soil. Arrange the trees according
to their kinds and heights ; avoid crowding, and let the trees start grad-
ually. If they have been plunged in ashes during the winter outside,
it would be forcing to place them now in more than a greenhouse tem-
perature with plenty of air. As the blooms open, give air carefully
when winds are frosty. On front ventilators a screen of tiffany or some
other wired breaker may be nailed. Trees under glass cannot stand in
cold what they would on walls or other exposure. Have the house and
trees always dry at night till nights are warm and sun has power.
Water with care at first ; and when foliage and wood are expanding
freely, let the roots have larger supplies of moisture. When fruit is
swelling, and roots have filled the pots, give guano -water at each
time of watering — just sufficient quantity to colour the water. We
prefer this to heavier doses at longer intervals. Do not allow the
surfaces to become battered. The same advice applies to trees planted
out-— a system we much prefer to pots ; and by lifting a portion of
the trees every year, and turning them round to the light, they are
easily kept to a dwarf size — healthy and vigorous. M. T.

ISTOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

The French, we all know, are adepts at rearing and managing trees ; but if we
are to believe an able writer on " French Forestry at the Paris Exhibition," in
the 'Journal of Forestry,' the Frenchman does not entertain that respect and
veneration for fine trees which we do in England : and the consequences are, it
appears, very noticeable in their parks and gardens, which are comparatively
destitute of old and noble trees.

The wealthy Englishman lives out of town, if he can ; but the wealthy French-
man lives in the city by preference, and in Paris if possible, and eschews
cricket and other manly games, field-sports, and the like, and turns his
attention to dice, dominoes, and frivolity; and hence, observes the writer just
mentioned, there is a general neglect of the country, and, consequently, of the
objects of the country — " hence their unfortunate specimens of gardens in the
' natural ' style, and of parks. Trees share in this neglect, and speaking as a
general rule, they are looked upon even by the more refined part of the com-
munity as any other crop is looked upon — i.e., for use, and in no way for orna-
ment. Hear the complaints of a French gentleman — Baron Marochetti — as

1879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 115

reported in one of the late Mr Senior's conversations. Mr Senior had been
admiring the Baron's park at Vaux, where he was staying, but remarked on
the absence of fine trees. His guest answered, ' It is impossible to persuade
a Frenchman that trees are anything but a source of profit. My intendant
values them according to their cubic contents. As soon as my back is turned
he finds an excuse to cut down every one which he thinks has reached its
maturity, for sale ; so does every one else. There are more fine trees in Hyde
Park and Kensington Gardens than in all France.' If, therefore, the mass of
the French people do not value trees as an ornament, and few have, the means
of cultivating them for profit, it follows of course that but a small part of the
community will know anything about them. Contrast this with the state of
things in our own country, where every one is anxious to surround his dwell-
ing with trees, if they are not already there, and to learn a little at any rate
as to their management."

A discussion which has been going on lately in the same paper sheds some
light upon that humdrum body, the Scottish Arboricultural Societj'. One
who seems to know something of the Society compares it to "a strong man
fast asleep," and draws a somewhat amusing picture of its doings. It is
asserted that competitive essays, upon arboricultural subjects, have been
sent into the Society, and been awarded high premiums, that have after-
wards, "for some inscrutable reason, been consigned to the depths of
oblivion" instead of being published in the 'Transactions,' as they ought to
be. It is hinted, however, that possibly the gentleman appointed to judge the
essays and the "publishing committee" may have differed in opinion as to
the merits of the papers sent in, and pleased themselves, accordingly, as to what
should be done with them. It does seem a little queer, however, that the
Scottish Arboricultural Society should give premiums to essays which it after-
wards sends to the waste-paper basket. Another member of the Society, Mr
France, who describes himself as " a member and councillor of some years'
standing," endeavours to explain the apparently amicable relationship thus
existing among the different sections of the Society, by stating that, "while
certain awards may be granted by the judges as an encouragement to young
or inexperienced writers to persevere and improve themselves," the publica-
tion of the papers may be a question of their "practical worth ; " from which
it can only be inferred that one of the objects of the Scottish Arboricultural
Society, in offering premiums for papers on practical forestry, is to teach
"reading, writing, and arithmetic;" and we may assume that pupils who
have passed in the " three Rs " will then be further encouraged by the pros-
pect of their papers being printed. Really one cannot sufficiently admire the
energy and enterprise of an already over-burdened Society like the Scottish
Arboricultural Society charging itself with such a task, and surely there can
be no tendency to go to sleep under such circumstances.

A recent feature of your contemporary, ' The Garden,' is its excellent
articles on " Plant-culture for Market," which cannot fail to be acceptable to
its gardening readers. Gardeners who visit Covent Garden for the first time are
impressed, not more by the extent of the supply of decorative plants in pots
than they are by the superiority of the plants themselves. It may be safely
asserted, we think, that the plants exposed for sale in Covent Garden are, as a
rule, much superior to those of the same kind usually grown in private gardens
for similar purposes, and also that they are grown more cheaply and expedi-
tiously, as might be expected; for the market growers confine themselves to
specialities, and spare no pains to do them well. Their methods of culture may

116 THE GARDENER. [March

be rougher and readier, but they are effective ; and these ' The Garden ' en-
deavours to explain in as succinct a manner as possible. Nothing more prac-
tical or instructive has appeared in the horticultural journals for a long while,
and we commend the papers to those who wish to be posted up in what is now
an important branch of the gardener's business. It may not be generally
known to gardeners that these exceedingly well-grown little plants of Erica
hyemalis, gracilis, Willmoreana, and others, which we see towards the end of
the season for sale in nurseries, are very often Covent Garden plants, or, at
least, from the growers for Covent Garden ; and the following account of their
propagation and management from ' The Garden,' may interest your readers: —
"Probably as large quantities of Heaths are disposed of about London as
of any other kind of plant. One grower alone sells yearly 200,000 plants,
and I believe some grow even more than that number. The large houses
devoted to Heath cuttings in some nurseries during winter are alone a
sight worth going miles to see. Here, on stair-like stages, are thousands
of 6-inch pots, each containing some fifty cuttings, covered with small bell-
glasses. In sheds adjoining may be seen men making cuttings with pairs
of scissors, and others deftly inserting them in the pots, which are surfaced
with finely-sifted silver sand ; others, again, are watering and setting the pots
in their places and putting on the bell-glasses, whilst others are removing such
as are already rooted to make room for those that are newly inserted. More
men may be seen out in the grounds busily nipping off the points of young
plants which are growing on in cold pits for the next year's blooming; and so
the production of young Heaths goes on from year to year. About Christmas
time the markets are crammed with little bushy plants of the rosy-coloured
Erica gracilis and the pearly, rose-tinted, waxy-blossomed E. hiemalis, two
of the principal varieties grown for winter and spring blooming. These are
succeeded by E. Willmoreana and E. candidissima, and after these come the
beautiful E. ventricosa and the yellow E. Cavendishii. Cuttings of these Ericas
are struck on a very slight bottom-heat during the winter months, or as soon as
cuttings of them can be obtained. When rooted, they are potted off, three in a
3-inch pot, and placed in light, airy situations, such as on shelves of houses or
in lean-to pits close to the glass. During March they are shifted singly into
3-inch pots, and, when well-rooted, they are placed in cold pits and subjected
to as much light, air, and sun as possible; in this state they remain through-
out the summer, receiving abundance of water both overhead and at the roots.
In the following winter they are cut back, and as soon as they again break into
fresh growth they receive their final shift into 5-inch pots, extra large plants
being potted in 6-inch ones. Pure peat and sand constitute the kind of soil
used for them ; and they appear to enjoy it, for Heaths may be seen in some
nurseries growing as freely as scarlet Pelargoniums. Fire-heat is as much as
possible at all times avoided; and in very severe weather, mats, &c, are used
to keep the plants at a proper temperature in preference to heat from hot-water
pipes."

The ' Gardeners' Chronicle ' is anxious that none of its leading or other
articles be borrowed or stolen "without acknowledgment," to perpetrate an
Irishism. We hasten, therefore, to say that the following original hypothesis
is from its pages, and is shared by no one else, we believe. Your contempo-
rary is concerned to prove that bottom-heat is unnecessary in plant-culture —
why it does not matter, and it proves its case thus : " The earth absorbs heat
slowly through the greater or less amount of stagnant air in its open surface,
its warming powers being still further retarded by the natural disinclination

i879-] * NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 117

of heat to descend, consequently it does not regain the heat it has lost during
the period of the lowering of the temperature of the air nearly so quickly as
the air is warmed by the sun's increasing force ; therefore the above-ground
parts of plants are placed under the growth-exciting influence of heat continu-
ally in advance and excess of the roots, until the turning period has arrived in
the pot season, when the force of the sun begins to come, &c; " and, continues
the writer, " I would recommend those who look upon bottom-heat as indis-
pensable to the successful cultivation of plants from hot countries, to consider
this fact ; and, I think, they cannot fail to see that applying it (bottom-heat)
as is ordinarily done at the commencement of the forcing season, in a volume
equal to or often considerably above that in which the heads of the plants are
placed, is diametrically opposed to the conditions under which they are found
in a state of Proteus, when the earth's heat is in excess of that of the air,
only at that time the season's growth is being matured." " Fail to see ! " We
should think not, after such a perfectly lucid and convincing argument as this.
The "stagnant air" in the "upper surface" of the earth is an obstruction
we did not calculate upon before ; and the said upper surface argues an
" under " surface somewhere, which is just a little puzzling, but all the rest
is perfectly clear. We know you do not believe the statements here made
about the temperature of the earth, Mr Editor, and no doubt you could tell
us to keep our eyes open, and look at the thermometer, &c. ; but, sir, you
have preconceived opinions, and are unreasonable. Such problems, we would
respectfully inform you, are not now settled by the thermometer, nor yet by
the eyes, nor any of the senses ; they are decided, sir, upon the ratiocinative
principle alone, and of which we have just furnished you with such a beauti-
ful example in the above extract. By this method you do not need to trouble
yourself with experiments and observations ; you can demonstrate any problem
n nature without leaving your easy-chair, as we are about to demonstrate now,
that your contemporary is not only quite correct respecting the temperature of
the earth, &c, but that the heat of the sun never reaches this earth at all.
The "stagnant" air and other obstacles which obstruct the sun's heat, are
nothing to some others that the writer in ' The Chronicle ' might have cited.
For example, there is the stagnant air in the surface of the sun itself — we like
to start with a good solid assumption ; next, there is the 90,000 odd miles of
luminous atmosphere; outside of that the "sun spots," which have been
troublesome lately; and beyond all, the 95,000,000 of miles to be traversed
before the sun's heat could reach this earth, not to speak of the "stagnant
air" and other things. Now, sir, here are four great sources of obstruction
sufficient to stop all the heat that ever was evolved out of matter since the
beginning. " It follows, therefore," as your contemporary puts it, and as we
have satisfactorily demonstrated, that there is no such thing as sun heat ;
and if plant cultivators would only "consider this fact," they would adapt
their practices accordingly.

It was to be expected that the introduction of the St Michael's Pine-apples
to our market would have a sensible effect upon prices of home-grown Pines
and Pine culture in this country ; but another and rather unlooked-for effect
of the plentiful supply of the St Michael's fruits is a reduction of the price
of Grapes also, and just at a season when these are most remunerative to
the English growers. Fruit -sellers, it appears, are discovering that their
middle-class and most numerous customers, finding the imported Pines excel-
lent and acceptable dessert fruits, and at the same time cheap, are buying Pines
in preference to Grapes. Probably the bad times have something to do with it

118 THE GARDENER. [March

as well ; but when talking the matter over lately with a fruit-dealer in a large
way, he told us that while his sale of Pine-apples had doubled or trebled, the
sale of Grapes had fallen off proportionally, and that fruit-sellers were cautious
in buying the latter, except to meet special orders.

That leading article in the ' Gardeners' Chronicle ' (whose misfortune it is to
have to discuss practical questions in their scientific aspect), on M. Alberto
Levy's investigations regarding the influence of light on the ripening of Grapes,
strikes one as containing some rather trite observations on the subject. It is
addressed to gardeners, but there is nothing in it that they may not read, in
gardening calendars every day. "A little nonsense now and. then "is not
objectionable; but when a paper fills its leading columns one week with the
ramblings of persons whose dogmatic conceit and intolerance is only equalled
by their inexcusable ignorance of the subjects with which they attempt
to deal, and. the next with matter that is absolutely stale, it becomes
a trifle disappointing. Upon M. Levy's experiments and operations we
need offer little comment, except that most of the conclusions drawn from
the first are long foregone. His main object, we are told, "is to ascertain
what is the principal agent which determines the degree of acidity in ripe
Grapes, under equal conditions of soil and altitude," &c. ; or, in other and non-
scientific parlance, as the reader gathers from your contemporary — whether
sweetness or sourness — a good or a bad flavour is " determined " by a good or
a bad season, as these terms are understood; and after discussing the subject at
some length, your contemporary observes : "To the botanist it matters little
that the Grapes are sour or sweet — the Grapes are ripe in a botanical sense
when the seed is formed and in a fit state to germinate. But for the culti-
vator the Grapes cannot be considered ripe until the constituents of the fruit
have become so adjusted as to produce Grapes of the best quality for the table
or for vintage purposes. Botanists and physiologists have, to some extent,
ignored this latter class of changes, which, nevertheless, are all -important
to the cultivator, and to them the attention of chemists and physicists should
hi drawn." Thus, you perceive, botanists and physiologists, chemists and
physicists, who are here satisfactorily distinguished from the "cultivator" or
gardener, will tell the latter something by-and-by on the subject of ripening
Grapes — when they have time to look into the matter — and then what produc-
tions will appear on the dessert-table! The main conclusions arrived at by
your contemporary, in the meantime, are that "heat and moisture (alone) are
incapable" of ripening Grapes perfectly, and that "light alone can give us the
key to the solution of the problem ;" also that "the quality of the fruit as it
hangs on the vine depends on the combined action of heat and light during
ripening." From these conclusions the Grape-grower may infer three things
with tolerable certainty : first, that the sun shines in those countries where
the Grape comes to perfection ; secondly, that it would be almost hopeless to
attempt to ripen Grapes under any other than a glass roof in this country ;
thirdly, that the heat and the light, when they are "combined," must have
some reasonable proportion to each other. Unless we altogether misapprehend
your contemporary, we think this is what it intends to convey on the subject
of Grape culture. As to its statement that "abundant crops succeed to," or
are "insured by, dry, bright springs," we shall probably learn more when
the " botanists " and the "physicists," &c, have finished their investigations
on the subject ; but it may just be stated that, meanwhile, gardeners are
under the delusion that good crops only succeed favourable autumns that
ripen the wood and buds of the Vine, and that the spring season, be it favour-

1879] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 119

able or otherwise, has nothing whatever to do with it, let alone insuring the
crops.

Your contemporary hopes that at some future period — about the millenuium
probably — when plants have ceased to require nocturnal rest, they will be forced
under the influence of electric light when the sun goes down. Gardeners will
then hang out their lanterns, which will at least have the effect of scaring cock-
roaches and their fraternity. How far M. Levy and the ' Gardeners' Chron-
icle' are clear on the subject with which they deal may be gathered from their
suspicions as set forth in the following 'lucid passage: "The expressions,
'clear,' 'cloudy,' 'overcast,' and the like, are much too vague, and too
much dependent on personal observation, often defective, and almost useless
for purposes of comparison. Nevertheless, by means of observations of this kind
co-related with the indications of the thermometer for the same period, M. Levy is
led to suspect the existence of a certain co-relation between the influence of certain
meteorological agents and the preponderance of certain ingredients in the Grape.'''
The author of this passage appears to be as hopeful as the schoolboy who
chased the three corn-crakes, observing as he ran, "if he could only catch
the first ane and anither ane, he would only want ane."

That discussion in the ' Chronicle ' as to whether Mr D. T. Fish acted
''rationally" or "irrationally " in adopting the " pendulum system" of Grape-
culture, as described by him in his article on tendrils some time ago, is an
awful warning to those who are disposed to be nice or inquisitive about the
meaning of words and phrases. To be told that one acts " irrationally " is
bad enough, but to have it demonstrated to one in calm unanswerable logic
is "tew much." If we couldn't speak we'd kick out. We regard Mr W.
Thomson's contribution to the discussion as an indignant attempt on his part
to shake the testimony of an important witness of the Culford Sport; and we are
afraid that Mr Fish is quite a little ashamed of the pendulums now, though he
once thought he was communicating a rather noteworthy discovery to Grape-
growers. Mr Fish would have us believe now that he only used the pendulums
once or so in an emergency, and when the most sensible course under the cir-
cumstances was to deal with the effect instead of losing time hunting for the
cause. All very wrell, Mr Fish ! The reply may be sufficient for those who, like
Mr Thomson, quoted from memory, and whom it might be happily supposed had
not the back numbers of the paper to refer to ; but did you not tell us that you
had adopted the plan " many times during twenty years " ? Had you quite for-
gotten a practice that you had so recently advocated, and so long carried on
yourself? and was there no time during the reasonable period of nearly a quarter
of a century to look into your Vine-borders and deal with the cause ? The
simile of the broken leg is an unfortunate one. He certainly would be a
foolish fellow who declined to use the readiest means to mend his limb when
it ivas broken ; but what name have we for the man who, having good reason
to suppose that the same accident would happen to him every year for twenty
years, through the same cause, took no means to avert it ?

Header.

— '*~**K?f2'*J

120 THE GARDENER. [March

ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS

HIBISCUS SYRIACUS (THE SYRIAN HIBISCUS).

This is one of a large and very varied genus, consisting of evergreen
and deciduous trees and shrubs, along with a considerable number of
herbaceous plants and annuals. The various species are found dis-
tributed over the tropical and temperate regions of both the old and
new worlds. All the sorts have handsome foliage and showy flowers,
and some, such as the grand H. roseus sinensis with its fine varieties,
with single and double flowers, are among the most valued ornaments
of our stoves and greenhouses. With the exception, however, of the
one which forms the subject of this paper, the ligneous species are
too tender for our climate in the open air. As its specific name implies,
it is indigenous to Syria, but it is also found more or less abun-
dantly in several of the surrounding countries, growing in high moun-
tain valleys, and forming an amply branched bush with a somewhat
upright habit of growth, of from 8 to 10 feet in height. It was
formerly associated with the Hollyhocks and Mallows in the genus
Althcea, and is still known under the name of Althcea frutex or
" Shrubby Hollyhock." It has been cultivated in British gardens
since 1596. The leaves are of a light-green tint, ovate in outline,
serrated, and distinctly three-lobed. The pretty bell-shaped purple
flowers are borne on long footstalks from the sides of the young
branches, and begin to expand early in September.

The Syrian Hibiscus, though now little known, and comparatively
seldom met with, is one of the finest of our hardy deciduous flowering
shrubs, of free growth in any rich deep soil, and hardy enough for
the open shrubbery border. It is found, however, to flower best
when enjoying the protection of a sunny wall, a position for which
it is well adapted, notwithstanding the absence of foliage in winter,
a defect to some extent compensated for by its rich autumnal beauty,
while its smooth whitish bark forms quite a feature after the decay
of the leaves.

It is found to grow well in the smoke and dust of towns, and
might with advantage be introduced into our squares and parks
much more extensively than it has been hitherto.

Of a large number of varieties, the following are the most attrac-
tive : they are all equally hardy with the parent, and in some cases
more beautiful, so far as flowers are concerned.

Var. alba — flowers pure white.

,, ardens — bright violet.

,, azurea plena — double blue.

,, ccerulea plena — double dark blue.

1879.] MANAGEMENT OF TEA ROSES. 121

Var. elegantissima — blue and purple.

,, fastuosa — bright rose.

,, grandiflora — large red.

, , purpurea variegata — purple, with silvery variegated leaves.

,, purpurea plena — double reddish purple.

,, speciosa plena— double white, purple striped.

,, violacea plena — double violet.

Hugh Fraser.

GRAFTING AND MANAGEMENT OF TEA ROSES.

Amongst sweet-scented flowers, nothing is more appreciated or gives
greater pleasure and satisfaction than a few Tea Rose buds in the
winter and spring. The season is fast coming upon us when plants for
the supply of flowers next winter and spring should be increased and
prepared, which can be done either by striking the cuttings from half-
ripened wood in a gentle bottom-heat, or by grafting on the Manetti
stock. Of course plants can be purchased for a very small outlay as
soon as they are struck or grafted, and grown on ; but my remarks are
intended for those who wish to increase the stock without purchasing.

It would be superfluous to refer to the mode of striking the Manetti
for stocks, which is so easily accomplished if cut in lengths of 9 or 10
inches, and inserted into the ground : nearly every one will strike. It
is useless to waste time in preparing the stocks, as a quantity can be
purchased at little cost, rooted and ready for potting. Supposing the
stocks are rooted, they are best potted during the winter and plunged
outdoors, — cutting the roots well in, so that they can be potted into
2 - inch pots, using loam and sand, and a little well - decomposed
manure, at the same time shortening back the growths on the top of
the stock.

The stocks will be ready for grafting in March, or earlier, if placed
in a cool house or frame, provided they have made roots sufficient in
their pots by that time, and the wood for grafting is ready, which
should be half ripened. It is therefore necessary that a batch of
plants be started into growth early, from which the grafts are to be
taken. If the stocks have not been potted in early winter, they should
be potted at once, and placed in a frame to commence growing, instead
of being placed outside. When sufficient young roots are made, and
the sap is flowing freely, the operation can be performed.

The best system of grafting is that known as tongue-grafting, as the
operator can use a stock of very slender dimensions. In performing
the work, the stock can be cut off within 2 inches of the soil, and a
notched slice should be cut through the bark of the stock about f of an
inch in length, against which the cut portion of the graft should be
fitted, and made secure with a small bass tie, and then well rubbed
over with grafting wax or clay,— either will answer the purpose.

122 THE GARDENER. [March

After this portion of the work is completed, these grafted plants
should be placed where the temperature can be kept at 60°. They are
best in a close frame in the propagating-house, or under hand-lights,
where they can receive a little bottom-heat, if possible, which assists
them to unite more quickly. I have been very successful with them
placed in a vinery with the above temperature, and without any bottom-
heat, although they are longer before taking to the stock. They re-
quire to be kept moist at the roots, and well syringed until the grafts
have properly taken, and shaded from strong sun. When the grafts
are well united to the stock, growth will soon commence rapidly; and
care must be exercised that the frame is not kept too close to cause the
growth to be weakly. As soon as 4 inches of growth is made, they
should be transferred from the small into 5-inch pots, using the same
compost. In this size the scion can be buried in potting underneath
the soil, which is advisable. By adopting this method, young roots
are soon thrown out from the place where they are worked, and in due
time they will be on their own roots independent of the stock. The
position now suitable for the plants is a low pit with a hot-water pipe
in it, where the desired temperature can be kept, and air admitted on
favourable occasions to strengthen the young shoots as they develop.
They should still be shaded from strong sun. It is advisable to keep
the pit close for ten days or a fortnight after potting, until they have
taken to the new soil. The plants will still receive much benefit from
a little bottom-heat, if it can be given them, and the cultivator will
soon see a great difference in the plants over those that are on a cold
surface.

The potting must be attended to as the plants require it, until they
are put into 9-inch pots, which size we consider large enough the first
season. If the plants have a suitable pit devoted to them, and a gentle
bottom-heat until the external atmosphere is sufficiently warm to ren-
der artificial heat unnecessary, the young shoots will grow apace. The
flower-buds should be picked off as they appear, and the plants fumi-
gated at the first appearance of greenfly. When the external atmo-
sphere will allow, the plants must be grown under more airy conditions.
Such varieties as Gloire de Dijon and Marechai Niel, &c, will make
tremendous shoots by the end of the season, which should not be
stopped, but should be well ripened in the autumn, and in early spring
they will produce a flower from nearly every bud along the shoot. I have
seen from a Marechai Niel, grafted in March, forty flowers the following
spring, although the plants were planted out in a prepared border at
the end of June, — consequently the plant grew more rapidly than it
would have done in a pot.

I might say that this variety (Marechai Niel), according to my ex-
perience, refuses to do well upon the Manetti for a stock : it soon dies
off. Such has been my experience. It will succeed well the first year,
and then the stock appears to die. It should be potted or planted as

1879.] VIOLETS FOR WINTER FLOWERING. 123

deeply as possible to get it on its own roots; or, worked on the seedling
briar, it appears to do very well.

Such varieties as Niphetos, Isabella Sprunt, Rubens, Madame Fal-
cot, Devoniensis, Safrano, and other varieties too numerous to mention,
grow more bushy than the above two ; and if grown coolly in the latter
part of the summer up to October, and then placed into a temperature
of 55°, they will soon commence and continue to flower more or less
through the whole winter, well repaying the cultivator for the trouble
bestowed upon them.

There is nothing better than E wing's Infallible Composition if the
plants are affected with mildew.

Wm. Bakdney.

VIOLETS FOR WINTER FLOWERING.

The importance of a supply of Violets in winter, and the universal
esteem in which they are held for the pleasant odour they impart to
rooms where flowers are admissable, as well as their general utility for
a variety of other purposes, render their cultivation an object of am-
bition to all who are engaged in horticultural pursuits. Small bouquets
of Violets are things that the most fastidious in taste never tire of,
either in season or out of season ; they are especial favourites with
ladies when neatly arranged and surrounded with a few of their own
bright green leaves ; and they are also becoming fashionable for fill-
ing small glasses on the dinner-table, whilst they are highly prized in
many places as pot-plants for the conservatory.

There are different ways of preparing plants for winter flowering in
pots, any of which appear an easy method of cultivation on paper ; but
Violets, like most other plants, inherit their likes and dislikes to cer-
tain soils, situations, and localities. This fact is not, I fear, sufficiently
recognised by those who are favoured with a suitable soil and a genial
climate. It is a fact, also, that certain varieties succeed better in cer-
tain localities than others — and this is one of the main points that I
would impress on intending cultivators. The situation the plants
occupy during the summer months also contributes in no small de-
gree to their flowering properties during winter; and if they are,
perforce, subjected to varying conditions of climate, they should on
that account be generously and skilfully cultivated in summer. Now,
in all cases of plant -forcing (which changes the natural season of
flowering, either earlier or later) there ought to be one principle kept
in view, and that is never to try to obtain by forcing what can be
achieved more satisfactorily by working quietly on a system nearest
to that which approaches the natural state. This is done by select-
ing such varieties of plants as are known to possess hardiness and
constitution, and to be the earliest to flower under a natural state of

124 THE GARDENER. [March

cultivation. Then again, Violets are supposed to love the shade of
trees, or at least situations where they are screened from strong
sun. No doubt there is an amount of truth in this, as far as
it refers to particular districts ; but in localities where the rainfall
is heavy and the sky not over bright for any lengthened period,
it would be a mistake to grow these plants much in the shade for
flowering in the open borders, much more for winter flowering in pots
or beds ; for although they may look in excellent condition as long as
mild weather continues, their leaves are not hardened, nor their crowns
in that advanced condition in which it is desirable to have them ; and
like other immatured plants when brought under the influence of
heat, they produce leaves instead of flowers. It is therefore import-
ant to remember that whilst Violets like a degree of shade, there is
a line to be drawn short of either extreme, especially with regard to
plants intended for winter flowering.

Violets are increased annually from cuttings, and also from seed. The
old plants are lifted from the borders about the beginning of April, which
is the best time for propagating, as the young cuttings or runners soon
root afresh with increasing warmth in the soil, and under the growing
influence of April dews and showers. The cuttings will be found
numerous enough growing in the form of runners round the crowns
of the old plants ; these should be removed with a sharp knife, and
prepared for insertion into the soil by removing one or two of the
bottom leaves and making a clean cut across the joint which forms
the base of the cutting. There will also be numbers of the runners
found to have formed roots in the soil, and these should be set aside
by themselves. When a sufficient stock is prepared, a piece of rich
ground on a west border should be chosen for planting the cuttings,
a line should be laid across the border, and a shallow trench about
4 inches deep made with a spade ; this trench should be filled up with
leaf-mould mixed with sharp sand, into which the rooted portion of the
young stock should be planted, the roots being made firm in the soil
with the fingers.

The lines may be about 6 inches apart, and the cuttings about
2 inches or 3 inches apart in the row. The unrooted portion of the
stock will be the better of a layer of sand being laid under their base,
which will hasten the rooting process and preserve the cuttings while
roots are being emitted ; and in the case of scarce or choice varieties,
it would be still better to have the cuttings protected by a cold frame
till once they have taken root — a process that will soon take place if
there is a growing atmosphere kept up within the frame, and the
plants are not allowed to suffer from blinks of strong sun.

That portion of the stock which is but partially rooted and unpro-
tected will also require a supply of moisture when it is deficient in
the atmosphere, and be kept well watered at the root in case of dry
weather. When the plants are well rooted and fit to be handled, they

1879.] VIOLETS FOR WINTER FLOWERING. 125

should be lifted with a five -pronged fork and arranged into three
separate lots, according to size and appearance — viz., the finest and best
rooted plants for pot-culture ; the second best for flowering in frames ;
and the remainder to be planted out in a favourable site for giving a
later supply of flowers in the spring.

It will be better to have all arrangements made for the reception of
the plants in their respective quarters before they are disturbed from
the cutting-bed, in order that the roots may receive no check through
any delay. A number of 7 or 8 inch pots will be in readiness for pot-
ting— the pots having been clean washed and carefully crocked, and
the soil also prepared beforehand. The soil should be a rich pre-
paration of yellow loam, with something less than a third of well-
rotted manure added ; failing this, if the loam is light, a third of
good honest clay which has been pulverised by exposure to the weather
should be mixed with the soil : this addition will give body to a light
compost, and will render it of a more enduring nature for the roots of
the plants to feed on ; it will also moderate the texture of the roots,
and work a proportionate influence in the nature of the leaves and
crowns favourable to their development for winter flowering. In pot-
ting, the soil should be made rather firm round their roots, and from
one to three plants put into each pot, according to the size of the pot
and other circumstances, which are more matters of personal taste than
otherwise. After potting, the plants should be plunged in a cold frame
and shaded from the sun for a few days, till appearances indicate that
fresh root-action has commenced. Where labour is a consideration,
and the work is carried on by hands occasionally employed, or as a
pastime by inexperienced hands, it would perhaps be as well to grow
the plants in a self-shaded spot during the hottest summer months,
where they would require less attention in watering, and where there
would be less to dread from the ravages of red-spider, which is a
destructive enemy in hot weather. Keeping the roots cool and in a
healthy condition, and supplying them with what water they require,
"and no more/' and syringing them overhead occasionally, by which
the leaves are kept green and fresh, is the surest way of promoting
vigour and fertility in the crowns. As the plants grow and increase
in size they will produce young runners, which must be kept down
regularly, so as not to waste any of their strength in forming lateral
growths. About the middle of August they should be more exposed
gradually, and taken to a south aspect, where they should be plunged
up to the rim of the pot either in coal-ashes or soil ; if in the latter,
they should stand on inverted pots, or on rubble of some sort, to keep
a clear water-course. It will now be necessary to watch what effect
the weather has on the leaves ; and in case there is any appearance of
suffering, some slight shade might be given during the hottest part of
the day for a week or so, and syringe frequently overhead when it is
safe to do so, both mornings and afternoons. The object of taking the

126 THE GARDENER. [March

plants to an exposed situation is to harden and mature the crowns,
and to forward them into a flowering state, with the warm, genial,
autumn weather. Where such work is accomplished by professional
hands, the plants, after they are potted, might be plunged in an advan-
tageous situation at once — placing a frame temporarily over them —
where they could be shaded and nursed for a time, till they have
gained strength, and are hardened by degrees to stand the action of
the weather. The frame might then be removed for the summer, and
the details already laid down should be carried out with increased
assiduity, owing to the more exposed position of the plants.

By the autumn, plants treated in this way will have formed broad
prominent crowns, surrounded with sturdy foliage, which will stand
our dark wintery weather vastly better than the more elongated and
softer leaves formed under a system of coddling. A cold frame should
be put over the plants as the days begin to grow short, and by housing
time the crowns will be bristling with buds about the size of pin
heads, which, if placed in a temperature of 50° to 55°, near the glass,
will soon expand, and a rich return will be in store for the cultivator.
The plants that are to be grown in pits or in beds will next occupy
attention : a spent hotbed answers very well for this purpose by put-
ting about 9 inches deep of rich compost over it, and planting out the
plants at about a foot apart, and treating them as directed for plants
in pots. These will also need protection early in autumn to bring
them into an early flowering condition. We now come to those that
are to be planted out in borders — and here, again, it will be unneces-
sary to repeat details. One thing, however, I would point out, — that
if there were more exposed situations selected for planting out Violets,
and if they were more generously treated at the root, and sprinkled
overhead with water on the evenings and mornings of hot days, people
would meet with greater success. The varieties we grow here are the
Czar, and a local variety which surpasses everything else for general
cultivation. W. Hinds.

A GOSSIP OVER POTATOES.

Mr Gray has been curiously misled with regard to the Potato Redbog
Early. He says, "Why named Red I am unable to say, as it is a
white." Redbog is the name of the place where it appears to have
originated. It is not nearly so good a Potato here as WThite Don,
so it is not grown now. With regard to some of the other kinds
noted, I was rather surprised to find Porter's Excelsior so highly
spoken of; we have never had it fit to eat. Schoolmaster has
turned out a great cropper ; very handsome, but deficient in table
qualities. My opinion of its merits to take its place as a standard
sort is not high. Of the class which Blanchard represents, this past

I879-] A GOSSIP OVER POTATOES. 127

season there were tried some six or seven sorts, all of them handsome
in shape, and pretty in the markings of the several sorts, but in other
respects worthless. I find no round Potatoes better in their respect-
ive seasons than are White Don, Dalmahoy, and Walker's Eegent.
The first-named is the finest-flavoured Potato I know. Early Market
is the earliest good eating round Potato ; but in this respect much
depends on how the tubers are treated before planting -time. Of
kidney-shaped sorts, the earliest I have grown is Early Sovereign,
one of the Early Pose type : it is also the best flavoured of this class,
though not a productive sort. Late Eose is the heaviest cropper ; but
I fancy there is an apparent tendency in this variety to revert to the
type. Beauty of Hebron, the latest addition to this family, is not
worth speculating in. A good selection of Myatt's is a very profit-
able Potato. Mona's Pride is rather earlier. Magnum Bonum I am in-
clined to consider as never likely to become a standard sort : it has
turned out a large crop of good tubers here, but its quality is inferior.
Each set was allowed a space of 5 feet by 3 feet, and the shaws
produced were something enormous. Snowflake has not proved a
Potato really worth growing, taking the test quality — that of eating
— into consideration. It is, however, very productive, the tubers
being also handsome. I had somewhere about three hundred picked
tubers of this sort last season from a comparatively small space
of ground. To eighteen of these was awarded a cup at a neighbour-
ing show. At another show, held during summer, some International
Kidneys which were shown were believed by many to have been
rubbed over with cream or fresh butter, though merely washed in
soft water and dried with a soft cloth. I have been greatly dis-
appointed with this variety, having bought it at a high rate, not
only under the impression of its being a fine sort as regarded
" looks," but also an extra fine-flavoured kind. It is indeed the
finest-looking kidney Potato grown, but it is not fit for table. Mr
Gray mentions Bountiful. This is a kind that needs very liberal
cultivation. It is possessed of a peculiar flavour, though pleasing ;
and when well grown, is a very good variety. It is curious that
every particular variety of Potato is possessed of a flavour peculiar
to itself ; but, as in the case of the Pea, the number of really good-
flavoured kinds is very limited. Sextus, and a sort I have been told
of named Eclipse, are kinds I think highly of. Where kidney sorts
are appreciated, these will be found good garden varieties. Victoria
still reigns finest of late kinds. It will not be wise for any one to
limit the space planted with these old approved sorts, expecting to
be better with newer kinds ; most of these are merely fit for pig's
food. E. P. Brotherston.

Tynningham.

THE GARDENER. [March

THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN.

ASPARAGUS, RHUBARB, AND SEAKALE.

As my purpose is to write for owners of small gardens, who employ only a
labourer, perhaps, to do the digging, &c., I will give them all the benefit I
can by treating, firstly, of those subjects which amateurs least understand and
have greatest difficulty in getting information about.

Asparagus — This vegetable requires a light, deep, well-enriched soil to grow
it well. In cold or northern districts — more especially if the soil be very
heavy — it is apt to rot off in winter, and therefore is not adapted for grow-
ing in such situations. But most owners of gardens desire a little Aspara-
gus ; and for those who may be in a reasonably favourable situation for its pro-
duction, I offer the following remarks : —

If the soil be heavy, some means must be taken to lighten it by mixing the
staple with sandy soil, or replacing it altogether to the depth of 18 inches at
the very least ; and if 3 feet, so much the better. Of course the ground must
be well drained. To prepare it, it must be trenched, and have a very liberal
addition of manure in autumn. During dry or frosty weather, re-trench it for
the purpose of thoroughly incorporating the manure. In April, mark the
ground off into beds 5 feet wide, with 2-feet alleys between them. Iff the
plants are to be raised from seed, sow it thinly in rows 18 inches apart; when
the plants come up, thin them the first season to 3 inches apart, taking out
every second plant the following year. Between these rows Spinach, Turnip,
Onion, Lettuce, and other dwarf crops may be grown the first two years, as
the Asparagus will not, until then, occupy the ground fully, and crops such as
these will do no harm. If preferred, the seed may be sown on a small bed, and
afterwards transplanted on permanent beds prepared as has been described.
Unless very well grown they may stand in the seed-bed for two years, as
Asparagus is about four years, under ordinary cultivation, in coming to perfec-
tion ; and two-year-old plants are generally good for planting. If sown where
they are to remain, they will not receive the check which transplanting gives ;
but many prefer growing them in seed-beds at about 5 inches square until they
are ready to transplant, and then they have the beds freshly prepared when
they are planted. When the grass dies down at the approach of winter, cut
it carefully over, and cover the beds with 2 or 3 inches of rotten dung. But
amateurs may purchase their plants and transplant them in beds as described,
and thus save the weariness of waiting for returns. The best time to plant is
in April, in cold, late districts ; and in March, in dry, warm ones, and just
as they are beginning to move. If home raised, lift the plants with a fork
very carefully, a few at a time, and plant them before they are much exposed
to the air ; if bought, leave them as little exposed to the weather as possible.
The best way of planting is to stretch the line where the rows are to be, and
beat the ground on both sides (as is done when Box edgings are laid), and then
cut a trench 6 inches deep along one side of it, and put the plants in with
their fibres spread out, and covered with well pulverised soil, keeping the
crowns 2 inches or so below the surface. When finished, give a good watering
if the weather be dry, and mulch slightly with rotten dung. If the garden be
exposed, it may be necessary to put in stakes, at distances of 4 feet, along each
row, and stretch on them three rows of string, to which each stalk should be
secured, as the wind may twist them over by the neck, and so destroy the
plants. Mulch in winter as before directed.

I&79-] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 129

Do not cut until the stem be coming up as thick as one's little finger; if
they never grow that size they are a comparative failure. When they are that
size, as they should be in two or three seasons at most, be careful to cut above
the crown, and not destroy the rising buds. If not very strong, do not cut
later than the end of May, otherwise they will be so much weakened as to
prevent them fully recovering lost ground during the summer. If very strong,
the cutting may go on until the 1st of June — not later. Afterwards encourage
all possible growth so as to lay up a store for another year. In very suitable
soils beds last many years when properly treated; in unfavourable soils they
soon wear out, and must be renewed accordingly.

Forcing Asparagus. — It is not likely that many villa-gardeners will practise
this. The best method in small gardens is by means of a hot-bed ; in large
well-appointed ones, pits heated by hot-water are used. The best hot-bed for
the purpose is one composed of half stable-yard manure and half leaves gathered
off the lawns, &c, and kept dry for the purpose. These should be thrown to-
gether— well shaken out— and get a little sprinkling of water if too dry, and
turned twice, at intervals of a week, or when it has fairly heated each time.
It is then built up perfectly square a foot wider than the frame which is to
be put on it, and firmly beaten down with the fork as the building proceeds.
While building, keep it all equally level, and do not build one side before the
other. When 3 feet high, put on your frame, and build your hot-bed mate-
rial up to the top of the woodwork all round, then put on your light or lights,
and wait for a day or two until the heat rises. If too dry, or if there be
too great a proportion of fresh stable-yard manure, it will heat too violently.
But if the leaves were a little decayed, and the stable-yard manure not too
fresh with the preparation described, it ought to rise gradually to 80° or 90°
in the middle of the bed ; and if there be no signs of it going higher, then get
in the Asparagus roots with all possible speed. They can be bought, or you
can rear them, but they will require to be four years old from the seed
and fairly well grown before they are ready to force. They should be pro-
tected in their beds from frost, so that they can be lifted easily at any time.
Lift carefully with a fork, and after putting 3 inches of friable soil on the bed,
begin by putting the plants upright and quite close together; and when a suffi-
cient quantity is in, fill in between the plants with fine dryish soil up to the
crowns, and give a watering of tepid water to wash all interstices full, and
over all put 2 inches of the same description of soil.

If succession crops be wanted from the same frame, divide the frame into
the necessary divisions with boards, and fill each division at intervals of a
week ; and if necessary a second frame can be prepared in the same way. I
have been thus particular because such a bed as I have described forms the
very best appliance whereby to force Seakale and Rhubarb during winter, and
is just the thing for Cucumber and Melon in summer, so I will not require to
give directions for forming beds when treating of those subjects. There
is this difference between Seakale and Rhubarb and Asparagus : the first
two require to be kept in total darkness to secure the best results, but As-
paragus is decidedly inferior when thus forced. To have it in full perfec-
tion both light and air are needful, so a glass frame is necessary ; whereas
any kind of frame, even hoops and mats, will do for Seakale and Rhubarb.
The temperature for each and all of these requires to be between 50° and
60°, above that, they will be drawn and flavourless ; and should the tem-
perature go below that by reason of severe weather or a declining heat in
the bed, mats or straw will be necessary to protect both frame and bed : and

130 THE GARDENER. [March

linings ought to be applied. By linings I mean that a foot of material all
round the frame should be removed, and two feet of hot manure put in its
place. A cold frame put over a bed will forward it in the open ground a
week or two.

Rhubarb. — A deep, rich, cool soil grows Rhubarb best ; but it can be grown
well in any garden soil if dug deeply, and well enriched with cow and horse
manure. The best time to plant it is just when the leaves have newly dropped,
although any time during winter or spring, before the buds have pushed much,
will do very well. Divide the old plants into single eyes, securing as much
root to each eye as possible, and plant in rows not less than 3^ feet each
way. Just cover the lower half of the buds in planting, and when finished
give a good top-dressing of rotten dung, which will keep out frost in winter
and drought in summer, and will afford nourishment to the plants besides, more
especially in thin soils, as the roots will be encouraged to extend up to the
top-dressing instead of down to the poor but perhaps moister subsoil. The
leaves will very soon hide the dressing completely. After the lirst year lib-
eral drenchings of cow-house drainage, or failing that, house sewage, will do
much to give a rapid, rank growth, which is the way to produce the best
Rhubarb. JSTo stalks should be pulled the first year unless it does extremely
well, when one or two may be taken from each bud about midsummer, but by
no means later or it will start very weakly the following spring. And ever
afterwards this rule should be strictly followed. The return of crop from the
Rhubarb plot of most villa-gardens is not worth the rent of the ground, and
simply because it does not get a chance to grow. If there be any troublesome
weed in the garden, the best way to weaken and eventually kill it is to treat it
as many persons, who do not understand the functions of leaves, treat their
Rhubarb — and that is, to pull off every leaf as fast as it makes its appearance.
But if it be allowed to grow strongly and only judiciously thinned, taking care to
leave two or three leaves to each bud, and not to pull wherever a suitable
stalk is found, it is wonderful what an amount of Rhubarb can be taken from
a very small space.

Forcing Rhubarb. — Although I could scarcely recommend the forcing of As-
paragus to every amateur, I decidedly advise them to force Rhubarb, as it is so
easily prepared. A good way is to put up a bed as recommended for Aspara-
gus; and the best way to prepare plants for forcing is to make a plantation
yearly on good ground, giving one season's growth without gathering from it.
Grown this way, the plants are of a fine handy size, and have a great amount of
matter stored up which will yield well when forced. Of course old plants
will do, but the results will scarcely be so good, and old plants are difficult to
handle without injury. These young plants can also be forced in the green-
house, vinery, &c, under stages, wrhere nothing else will grow, or even in a
cellar or any place affording a temperature of 50° and upwards. The way this
is generally done is to put the roots, as many as possible, into good sized pots
with fine soil kept moist, but not w7et, and another pot placed over it with
the joint and holes made air-tight, to secure its being properly blanched. But
the commonest way is to put square boxes, with no bottoms and movable lids,
or seakale covers, or large pots, over the plants as they grow in the ground,
and then cover these with stable litter and leaves to the depth of 2 feet, and
the same round the sides. The boxes will require to be about 20 inches square
and deep for large old plants ; for small plants smaller boxes will do. It can
be had in this way from Christmas onwards if desired, or indeed earlier, but
not many owners will care about having it earlier. In severe weather a cover-

1879.] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 131

ing of straw or mats over the prepared manure will be beneficial, indeed neces-
sary to enable the dung to retain its heat.

In putting up secondary beds, part of the old manure can be used with the
fresh ; and indeed, by the end of February, a fourth part of fresh material
used with the old will be enough, as little excitement will cause it to grow
late in the season, and less fermenting matter will keep up the temperature.
The mere pots or boxes in March will forward it considerably.

Seakale. — This is about the most generally appreciated winter vegetable we
possess, and forcing improves its quality. The plant thrives well on many
parts of our sea-shores in pure sand, and this indicates that 'a light soil near
the sea is the best. And certainly it is the best, although it can be grown on
any good garden-ground, deeply dug and well manured. As in the case of
many other sea-shore plants — the Asparagus, for instance — a slight top-dressing
of salt occasionally in inland situations where the rains are free from salt, does
a great deal of good. Many apply salt to such crops, and finding no benefit
to accrue therefrom, come to the conclusion that the use of salt is unwarranted.
But in the case of really sea-shore plants, or plants furnishing an appreciable
quantity of chlorine and soda or other ash, salt does do good in inland situa-
tions; and if care be taken, it will be found that, where no benefit accrues from
its use, an appreciable quantity is found in the rains, which come from seaward.

Seakale is raised from seed and from cuttings of the thick fleshy roots of
old plants. Having practised both methods, I prefer the first, but shall de-
scribe both. Seed can either be sown where the plants are to remain, in the
case of permanent plantations, or in beds, as recommended for Asparagus, and
afterwards transplanted. I prefer sowing where they are to remain, as a means of
saving time. Sow in rows 3 feet apart, and 3 feet between the plants, placing
the seeds in this manner ' ,' . * . ; and when they are up, leave one plant
as represented by the dots ; and between the rows I take a crop of small grow-
ing Cabbages, Turnips, Lettuce, &e., the first season. A winter's mulching of
manure, forked in March, prepares them for another year's growth, when they
get all the ground to themselves, and, if it be in good condition, they make
fine patches for forcing where they stand by means of boxes and manure, as
advised for Bhubarb. "When the plants have produced their crop, and the
boxes are removed to another lot, the stools are protected with a little litter,
and allowed to grow on in summer, to prepare for another year's forcing in the
same way, and so on until the plants get unprofitable, when another bed com-
ing on can take their place. The very last bitches can be blanched by merely
turning pots or boxes, with all air-holes stopped up, over the stools. Leaves
alone, if put thick enough, and firmly beat together, will do very well as a
heating material ; but care should be taken not to run up the heat too high,
or the produce will be drawn and watery — 50° to 60° is quite high enough.
Forcing commences in ordinary gardens in November, although in some cases
Seakale is eut by November. If the material be right, it will be fit to gather
in five or six weeks from the time of covering up ; but if it takes eight weeks, no
matter. But when time and labour can be spared to make new plantations,
the following is a very good way to produce this vegetable during the colder
months of the winter : Sow the seed in drills 2 feet apart, on deep, light, well-
enriched soil, about the beginning of April. "When the seeds are up, thin to 18
inches apart ; and if liberally watered with liquid-manure, they will grow
very strong, and be ready to force the first year : but as skill, good soil, good
climate, and plenty of manure are necessary for this, perhaps it may be con-
sidered rather smart work for an amateur. So, if the soil and climate and

132 THE GARDENER. [March

skill be only mediocre, then sow in drills 1 foot apart, thinning to 6 inches in
the row, and transplant to the distances above mentioned the following spring,
and line roots for forcing will likely be the result. The forcing in this case is
just exactly the same as recommended for Asparagus, by means of a hotbed
and frame — only keep perfectly dark ; and if the roots be strong, fine Kale will
result. In all cases of cutting, cut a thin section of the old crown, for the
purpose of keeping the " head " together. It is also forced along with Rhubarb
in Mushroom-houses, or as recommended for Rhubarb, in warm cellars, in pots.
In propagating from roots, cut the fleshy roots into 10-inch lengths, and
transplant them with a dibble, keeping the right end up, and 1 inch below the
surface ; and if more growths than one result, remove them, leaving the
strongest. On thin, poor soils, a slight mulching of rotten manure and occa-
sional soakings of liquid-manure during summer — such as sewage, or farm-yard
drainings — will prove of the very greatest service in promoting a strong vigor-
ous growth, which is what should be aimed at if a fine succulent vegetable be
wanted. At a recent meeting of the " Scottish Horticultural Association," Mr
L. Dow recommended forcing the Swedish Turnips for a substitute ; and
having done so for some years, I can also recommend this. Indeed our main
supply is got by turning a part of the store (put up in pits for the supply of
the cows in spring) from February onward, when the sprouts are to be had in
fine condition ; and although similar to Seakale, they are prized as a variety
of vegetable when others are scarce, and a lesser quantity of Seakale serves.
As Mr Dow says, it is certainly economical, for Turnips are easily grown, and,
except the shoots forced out, they are not otherwise deteriorated, and remain
good cattle-food after being forced. , A Gardener.

TRANSPLANTING AND POTTING CAMELLIAS.

This appears to be a task of difficulty to many, considered a hazardous
undertaking, and in numerous cases as certain death to the plants. I
have beard it remarked times almost without number, that the lifting
of a large plant or plants would place their life in jeopardy ; therefore
the Camellia is looked upon as a plant not to be touched in the way
of lifting, after having been planted out. I can point to cases where
death has been the result of lifting, and the notion has afterwards
been entertained that the plants might as well die for the want of
lifting as be killed by removal. It should be considered, however,
whether this work was performed at the proper time, or was intrusted
to competent hands. Plants lift better out of some borders than
others. If the soil be light, the roots soon wander away, and cannot
be lifted with good balls ; but if the soil be of a heavier nature, and
made firm round the plants, the roots are nearer home and lift well.

I know of large plants which have been almost periodically lifted
for a long time, and in every case with good results — never losing a
crop of flowers. In some cases the plants were lifted because they
grew too luxuriantly in their new border, after being confined to pots

1879.] TRANSPLANTING & POTTING CAMELLIAS. 133

and tubs ; in other cases, to give room to Palms, Tree-Perns, Dra-
caenas, Yuccas, &c. I have been engaged in lifting large plants of
Cibotium princeps, with a spread of fronds of nearly twenty feet ;
Dicksonia antarctica and D. squamosa, ten feet over, which are now
nearly twenty feet ; as well as Palms, Dracaenas of the Yeitchii type,
and others, — and in every case with satisfactory results. Camellias can
be lifted as safely and satisfactorily as a Cupressus or a Portugal
Laurel, provided the work is executed carefully by persons com-
petent to do it, and at the proper season. In such cases, I would
recommend the chief to be there to see that such work is properly
carried out, and not left to those who care but little if the plant lives
or dies, and who are ignorant of its requirements.

The proper time for carrying out such operations has been referred
to. Some cultivators repot all their plants in the spring, and say,
because growth is well commenced and the roots are active, this is the
proper season. I prefer the autumn, after growth is completed and the
flower-buds beginning to swell. Their roots are then active, and the
plants are less liable to be damaged than when they are growing in
the spring. To lift them when the growth is advancing apace checks
them more or less, and consequently impedes the rapid progress of the
young shoots. If lifted in the autumn, while the roots are active,
they soon take to the new soil, and are ready for a good start
in the spring. In some cases, I have seen the following season's
growths vigorous and fine, and no one would know that they had
been removed, and scarcely a flower-bud fell.

A number of Camellias in pots came under my notice some seasons
ago. They were in a very unsatisfactory state, the soil being sour,
and some of the plants nearly washed out of their pots with water.
They had usually thrown off the greater number of their flower-buds.
The growth of the plants in question was completed in August,
and the buds began to form. They were then turned out of their
pots, the sour soil carefully taken from the few roots they had, and
were again repotted in smaller pots, using plenty of sand amongst
the compost, with the idea of getting some fresh roots and giv-
ing them a liberal shift the following season. After being potted,
they were plunged in a slight bottom-heat, in a north aspect, keeping
the tops cool. By the time the flowers expanded, the plants had
made a good quantity of fine healthy roots, lost only a very small
percentage of their bloom, and did all that could be desired the fol-
lowing season. Wm. Bardney.

Norris Green, West Derby.

134 THE GARDENER. [March

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

The Camellia.

From the fact of its flowering at the time when flowers are generally-
scarcest, and the demand for them greatest, the Camellia, both for cut
flowers and house decoration, fills a gap in a way that few other plants
can do; the flowers are always desirable, and always valuable, so that
it must be considered one of the most indispensable of our decorative
greenhouse plants. Its natural season of blooming is from December
onwards till April, and though with proper treatment it is quite pos-
sible to have them in flower as early as August, still the flowers are
never so good, and certainly they are never so much valued at this
season as when they flower in the dull- winter and spring months.
"Where they are wanted to flower early, they should be kept in heat
while they are making their growth, and until the buds are well set,
after which fire-heat should be discontinued. While making their
growth they should get a dewing with tepid water occasionally, through
a syringe, in order to keep the foliage clean and healthy. By starting
them a little earlier each succeeding year, they will in a few seasons
be induced to start away early of their own accord, or at least with
very little assistance. Like Azaleas, the Camellia is imported in large
quantities every year from the Continent, and at a very reasonable
price : so that unless one really wants to propagate one's own plants, by
way of practice, it is hardly worth the trouble of doing so; still some-
times one likes to try their hand at such things.

Cuttings of some of the strong-growing single varieties, such as
Tricolor, may be put in to root in order to make stocks for grafting
upon. They should be put in singly, in small thumb-pots, and plunged
in the propagating-frame, in a bottom-heat of about 80°, and in a
mixture of peat, rubbed through a fine sieve, leaf-mould, and sharp
sand. Cocoa-nut fibre is a good plunging material, or sawdust will
do very well. They should be dewed slightly through a syringe on
the evenings of hot days, and kept pretty close until rooted, after
which gradually inure them to air and exposure, and encourage to
make good strong growths, gradually increasing the quanity of air, so
as to get the wood well ripened and ready for grafting the following
season.

This operation should be performed in the spring of the year, when
the sap is in active circulation, though some prefer to do it in the
autumn, when the growth is more matured. The stocks should be
first plunged in the propagating-box for a short time before operating
upon them, so as to have them in active growth : side-grafting is the
method usually employed. The scion should be securely tied with
matting, and then covered over carefully with grafting wax, and each
plant labelled and returned to the frame as it is finished, and kept
close until the union is completed. There should be a brisk bottom-

1879] EUPATORIUM ODORATUM. 135

heat, and an atmospheric temperature of about 65° should be main-
tained. After the grafts have taken, gradually inure them to air and
light; and the stock may be cut away above the junction after they
have made a few inches of growth ; pinch out the points, so as to induce
a bushy habit. They may be shifted into larger pots as they require it,
using peat, leaf-mould, and sand, only a little rougher than at first,
until they are into 6-inch pots. In all sizes above this, they should
have a considerable proportion of good turfy loam incorporated with
the compost, as also a few pieces of charcoal. Indeed, if the loam is
good, they will be better grown entirely in it, with a sixth part of sharp
sand and a handful of ground bones.

Larger plants will be much benefited by an occasional watering of
liquid manure when they are making their growth, and again when
the flowers are beginning to expand. There is nothing better for this
than pure guano or soot-water, allowing either of them to lie in steep
for a night before using, and then keeping back the sediment ; this does
not choke up the pores of the soil like manure-water made from sheep
or deer droppings. The Camellia is not susceptible to the attacks of
insects, unless, sometimes, brown scale, when the usual remedies must
be applied. This will be found in most of the insecticides sold by
nurserymen, directions for use being always given along with them.
Appended is a list of good varieties — viz. : Alba plena, Archduchess
Marie, Augustina superba, Bealii, Bianca Gualdini, Cardinal Antonelli,
Duchesse de Berri, Duke of Lancaster, Eximea, Fimbriata, Marchion-
ess of Exeter, Pearl, Reine des Beautes, Story ii, Thomas Moore,
Valtevardda, Vicomte de Nieuport, Imbricata, Jubilee.

J. G. W.

EUPATORIUM ODORATUM.

One of the most useful winter and spring flowering plants is the
above. Coming in as it does when flowers, and especially white flowers,
are getting scarce, it is the more useful, and is not cultivated nearly so
much as its merits deserve. Not its least recommendation is the
small amount of care required in its culture. After the plants have
done flowering they should be cut back, and put into a vinery at work
to break again into growth, in order to get cuttings. These should be
taken off exactly as we do Fuchsias; and, in fact, the same treatment
that we give to Fuchsias suits them exactly in the earlier stages of
their culture. When rooted, pot them off singly into 3-inch pots ; they
are not particular as regards soil, the same used for Fuchsias and
Geraniums will suit them nicely ; keep them well pinched while they
are young, as they are apt to get leggy. The next shift may be into
6-inch pots, which will be large enough to bloom them in the first year.
They should be grown in a temperature of about 55° till the middle

136 THE GARDENER. [March

of May, when they may be gradually hardened off : and when danger
from frost is past, they may be plunged out-of-doors, in a sheltered
place, but fully exposed to the sun. They must be duly attended to
with water, and occasionally pinched. They may be brought under
cover about the beginning of October, and the first batch will come into
flower about the end of November. The old plants will bloom a month
earlier, and by having successional batches of cuttings, they maybe had
in bloom up to April or May. It is a most useful plant for cutting
from, and its beautiful dark green foliage lends additional charm to it.
It has also a very sweet perfume, somewhat resembling the smell of
honey ; and, by the way, the bees are very fond of it. The flowers
stand well when cut; and the plants stand rooms well. There is
another variety — viz., E. riparium ; it is not so good nor so free-flower-
ing, however, as the variety above-mentioned.

J. G., W.

THE GARDENER'S PRIMER

The object of the following remarks is to endeavour to give to the
young gardener some insight into the nature of the subject in
pursuit of which he has cast his lot, and is not intended in any way
to supersede the necessity for his learning the art of horticulture from
those who are capable and willing to take the trouble of teaching
him, nor to lead him to neglect the study of Botany in all its
branches in any of the advanced text-books on that science.

A practical acquaintance with some of the elements entering into
the composition of plants — some knowledge of the climate, soil, and
situation of the countries in which they grow, and of the diseases to
which they are liable, or predisposed, and the causes thereof, and
the remedies to be made use of, and of the hosts of destructive insects
which feed on them, and of the methods for removing them, and of
some of the elementary Laws of Physics — will materially assist the
gardener in acquiring a sound knowledge of the practice of horti-
culture.

Some of the elements which are known to enter into and form part
of the structure of plants are carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and nitrogen,
sulphur, phosphorus, and chlorine, which, in combination with
sodium, forms chloride of sodium (sea salt) ; and in some form or
other plants derive nutriment from chlorine, iodine, bromine, and
silicon, which, in the form of flint or silex, enters largely into plant
structure, although more so in some plants than in others, and in
combination with oxygen and metals it forms a class of minerals
called Silicates.

1879.] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 137

Other of the elements are of the metallic class, such as calcium,
in its carbonate state as limestone constituting vast mountains, and as
chalk, enormous beds, which are decomposed by the action of the
atmosphere and by rain-water, which, by-the-by, contains carbon
dioxide (carbonic acid) : this limestone or chalk when burnt in a
kiln becomes calcium monoxide or quick lime. Aluminium in the
state of an oxide of aluminium is clay, which is felspar weathered or
exposed to the action of the atmosphere until disintegrated, and
felspar is a double silicate of aluminium and potassium. Other
of the elements are magnesium, potassium, and sodium, the two
latter not identical in their operation, the one not supplying the place
of the other in plant structure ; and in combination with oxygen are
the alkalis potassa and soda. The former (potassium) enters largely
into the composition of land plants as a chloride, and is obtained by
them from soils produced by disintegration of granite rocks. The
presence of potassium in plants is easily proved by burning them,
but the ashes, popularly called Potashes, will not contain the ele-
ment in the state in which it was in the plant during its life, but
in the state of a carbonate ; it is said to enable the plant to prepare
and form starch. The latter (sodium) enters largely into the composi-
tion of marine plants.

Other elements in the composition of plants are iron, supposed to
be necessary to the formation of chlorophyll, copper, manganese,
and lithium, which last occurs in the ashes of the Grape Vine,
Tea, Coffee, and Tobacco plants, in the milk of cows which have
fed on plants growing in soils containing lithium, and in moor
water, and is one of the most widely distributed elements.

Carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and nitrogen have been called the
organic elements or organogens • sulphur and phosphorus have been
called pseudo-organic elements; and calcium, aluminium, magnesium,
potassium, sodium, iodine, bromine, silicon, iron, copper, manganese,
and lithium, have been called the inorganic elements. The distinc-
tion is not a desirable one, to say the least, since, whether any of
them are essential to plant life, and others only partially and not
universally present in plant structure, it seems apparent that, as soon
as any plant has utilised any one of the so-called inorganic elements,
it has then formed as much a part of the organic structure of the
plant as carbon, hydrogen, &c. The only way out of the difficulty
is to avoid the use of the words organic and pseudo-organic as in-
applicable to the above elements in reference to plant life.

Some knowledge of the atmosphere by which our world is sur-
rounded will soon be found necessary. The atmosphere or air is
composed of the gases nitrogen, oxygen, aqueous vapour or vapour of

138 THE GARDENER. [March

water (produced by evaporation from water in some of its many forms,
and its amount therefore varying with the temperature), and carbon
dioxide (carbonic acid) and ammonia, which is composed of nitrogen
and hydrogen. The vapour of water is the lightest of all gases,
except hydrogen and ammonia, is invisible, is largely absorbed by
plants, but on its condensation by cooling is visible as a cloud, mist,
dew, rain, snow, or water, and to the latter forms of it we are in-
debted for the supply of water to our springs and rivers. It is to
the vapour of water that we are indebted for the beautiful appear-
ance of the atmosphere, which by preventing the too rapid radiation
of heat from the earth, affords as it were clothing and protection
to vegetable life.

A knowledge of the attributes of vapour of water or aqueous vapour
will enable the gardener to understand and overcome many difficulties
when he works in the plant houses, where he will soon see the
effects of aqueous vapour evaporating from the open water tank, or from
pools of water purposely thrown down, in its condensation on the
cool glass, dripping down, and often spoiling the foliage of plants,
especially of orchids j or in a vinery filled with late Grapes, if the
lights are left open in dull moist weather, the aqueous vapour of the
atmosphere will enter and condense on the cold berries of the Grapes
and lay the foundation for many a rotten berry.

A knowledge of some of the laws of heat wrill be very serviceable ;
without heat the sap cannot rise in the plant cells, nor the seed
germinate. To the expansion by heat of all bodies (whether solid,
liquid, or gaseous) the gardener is indebted for the thermometer,
which, by the rising or expansion of the mercury in the tube, shows
on the face of it the degree of heat, whether in the open air, on the
surface of the earth, or in the plant house, or even in the hot bed
formed of stable-manure (if a thermometer specially constructed for
that purpose is plunged into it), a great advantage by-the-by over the
old fashioned way of leaving a stick plunged in the hot bed and
pulling it out occasionally, and by the personal contact with the hand
guessing whether the heat called bottom-heat in the hot bed was suffi-
cient. Again, to the laws of the expansion by heat as applied to
fluids, the gardener is indebted for the power of heating with the
hot-water apparatus, as it is often called, the houses placed under his
care ; and to the pressure of the weight of the atmosphere the
gardener is indebted for the barometer and the common pump.

To return to that part of our remarks in which carbon dioxide
(carbonic acid) was mentioned as a constituent of our atmosphere.
It is the great material with which the plant builds itself; most of the
carbon in the plant is formed from carbon dioxide. It forms only a

1879.] POINSETTIA PULCHERRIMA. 139

small portion of the lower part of our atmosphere ; but owing to the
law of diffusion of gases and other causes the quantity is never
lessened, notwithstanding the continual abstraction of it by millions
of hungry leaves. It is itself supplied to the atmosphere from active
volcanoes, in large quantities, from fissures or cracks in the earth,
from the breath and exhalations of animals and fishes, from burning
substances containing carbon, from the decomposition of substances
containing carbon dioxide, such as chalk or limestone (both of which
are animal formations), and from rain and sea-water.

POINSETTIA PULCHERRIMA.

We have many varied and rich floral colours of singular beauty and
attraction to please the eye, elevate the taste, and otherwise charm the
fast-declining days of the year — the cultivator having by previous fore-
thought and care produced many subjects wherewith to brighten its re-
tiring hours. Amongst the numerous species of plants suitable for such
a purpose, I think the Poinsettia occupies no unimportant position.

Although now very generally grown and utilised for winter decora-
tion, I would endeavour, by giving a few cultural remarks, to estab-
lish it in the position which its merits justly claim. Its worth and
beauty call for greater attention than has been hitherto accorded it.

The easiest mode of propagation is to take well-ripened shoots of the
previous year's growth, with good buds on them, and with a sharp
knife form them into "eyes," in a manner similar to that adopted for
Vine eyes. Where a large stock is required, wide pots, or, better still,
ordinary-sized seed or cutting pans, will be found most suitable : these
should be thoroughly well drained, nothing being more essential to
healthy vitality than a compost perfectly free from sourness. With
good drainage, a compost of fibry loam, leaf-mould, charcoal, and a
liberal addition of sharp sand, may be used. Fill the pans to within an
inch or so of the top ; sprinkle a layer of sand over all. Insert the eyes,
leaving their upper extremity merely visible, at a distance sufficient to
clear the eyes and admit of easy extraction of the most advanced when
potting time arrives. Plunge in a bottom-heat of 80° to 85°, having a
surface-heat of 70° to 75°. No water should be given for several days,
until the pores are closed, or they will discharge a considerable amount
of white acrid matter peculiar to the genus.

The compost not being over-dry, very little more water will be re-
quired than an occasional moistening to prevent the sand getting
powdery until growth has taken place. Water should be given very
carefully, as the eyes suffer in a marked degree from over-dampness.

Eyes put in during March will be fit for potting into small pots
in the early part of May, in a compost of loam, leaf-mould, and sand.

HO THE GARDENER. [March

In removing the young plants which have pushed before the others,
care should be taken to prevent their roots getting broken, they being
of a very succulent nature. They should be well shaded from sunshine
until established, or drooping heads will be the consequence. With a
surface-heat similar to that in which they were rooted, they will
speedily fill their small pots, and should be grown on without a check
by shifting into 3 and 4 inch pots ; and as they root, they may be
gradually inured to cooler quarters. Those in the smaller size can be
potted into their final 5 or 6 inch pots, using compost of loam, charcoal,
and well-decayed cow-manure.

By the beginning of June they will be sufficiently hardened to admit
of being grown in an unheated structure. We succeeded admirably,
even in Cumberland climate last year, in growing a very large quantity
in cold pits, slightly shaded from direct sunshine, and were rewarded
with plants clothed to the base with rich dark-green foliage, which
the cooler treatment tends to produce, as well as at the same time
materially to assist in providing stamina for floral development. They
were removed by the middle of September into a gentle heat, pushed
gradually on for two months in a minimum temperature of 60°, and
were in flower by the beginning of December.

Well-rooted plants introduced to heat will stand copious manure
waterings. The quantity should be decreased, and finally withdrawn,
ere the scarlet bracts attain full development.

Poinsettias, if grown by themselves, are not much subject to insects,
thrips being their chief enemy, which may be got rid of by smoking.
They require no syringing overhead — an occasional moistening of the
structure being sufficient. When the bracts have been cut, water should
still be given— not discontinued, as some do — until the foliage and
stems have been properly matured and fitted for a good start next
season. In the case of plants intended to be grown in the second year,
their shoots may be cut down to within an eye or two of the base, and
be kept partially dry until they heal their wounds ; but the roots should
not suffer for want of an occasional watering, which may be given more
freely as the eyes push forth into growth. When they have made a
slight start, shake them carefully out of the old soil, and pot them into
a smaller size, in a compost of one part loam and one part leaf-mould
and sand, using for next and final shift an addition of decayed cow-
manure, and treated in all respects as those raised from eyes. For dec-
orative purposes in rooms and halls they are objects of great attraction;
as also for vases or table decoration, and for making gay stoves in
which foliage-plants predominate. There are two varieties cultivated
in this country— P. pulcherrima and P. p. plenissima, the latter suc-
ceeding the former, and keeping up a long succession of flowers. The
latter variety has been highly spoken of in influential quarters, but I
confess to having neither seen nor as yet grown such splendid ex-
amples as certain writers have stated it to be capable of. I do not

1879.] SPORTS AND SPORTING. Ul

wish, however, to detract from its reputation, as probably it may not
have had exactly the treatment it requires ; but grown under the same
conditions as P. pulcherrima, I do not consider it so useful as the
latter and older variety. R. B.

Brayton.

SPORTS AND SPORTING.

I am going to write a few words (as few as possible) on a subject
on which I am, in common with every one else, very ignorant, and
that is on "sports." Sports do occur, although at extremely rare
intervals, considering the millions of plants which do not sport to
the one which does. That much is certain and unquestioned. But
whether this occurs in accordance with some ruling law in vegetable
physiology, no one, so far as the writer is aware, has ever made clear,
or even stated a plausible theory concerning it to account for the fact.
There is another thing in vegetable physiology similar in some re-
spects, but greatly different in others, which is also unexplained, but,
unlike the " sports " proper, has been much theorised on without
making us much the wiser — I refer to the influence of scions on
stocks. In a great majority of cases a stock retains its original nature,
no matter how great may be the difference between it and the scion.
I say in a majority of instances, although a good many examples of
the opposite have occurred, showing that occasionally the stock does
partake of the scion's nature — nay, properly authenticated instances
have occurred when the stock was wellnigh transformed into the
living image of its scion. To be sure, not many, if any, experiments
have been carried on to test the influence of the scion on the stock,
else, doubtless, a great many more instances might have been chron-
icled,— perhaps as many as on the reverse side of the question — the
influence of the stock over the scion. When the latter occurs it is at
once seen, if at all marked in its features ; while what influence the
scion may have exercised on the stock is hid, buried, and the growth
which might show the influence is carefully repressed, and when the
head dies the stock is grubbed out. Still, we have enough instances
to show that generally the scion does not alter the character of the
stock. No matter how long may be the life of a hybrid perpetual
Rose, if budded on the Manetti, when the Rose dies up comes the
Manetti briar as pure in blood as its parent was when taken from its
sunny home ; and in no case that I have seen, or remember reading
of, has the influence been noticeable. And yet we have enough of
instances to show that, no matter how inexplicable it may be, the

142 THE GARDENER. [March

stock is altered occasionally by the scion, but perhaps not once out of
a million, perhaps ten million, times.

I remember reading of a Jasmine — a common green variety — on
one of the branches of which was budded a variegated one. The
first year it made a growth true to the variety from which the bud
was taken. The year following a shoot similar in every respect to
the inserted variety appeared on the stock, nearer the ground than
the inserted bud. When this was noticed the " foreigner " was cut
out entirely, so that the stock only was left ; but still the variegation
continued to spread until the whole plant, to the ground-line, became
variegated. And how 1 That is just what I want to know, and that
is what has never been explained, and it seems doubtful if it ever
will ; for if such a thing really did occur, according to any discover-
able physiological law, how comes it that such cases are so few and
far between, and the exception rather than the rule 1 Bud a million
Jasmines with a variegated bud, and the likelihood is, not one will
behave as I have described. There is much in vegetable physiology
that is inexplicable, but not one point more so than the question
before us. AVhat circumstances can we provide to any class of plants
in order to cause them to sport 1 Certain fugitive plants — Stella
Geranium for one — will sport into a variegated form occasionally, if
starved in dry, poor, sandy soil, and the opposite treatment will
cause it to revert to its normal form. The same is true of Cyperus
alternifolius, and of that most beautiful Coleus Duchess of Edin-
burgh, and a host of other subjects. Sports, then, do occur, and
again revert to their normal form. But can a stock which reproduces
a certain form, which may have been grafted on a portion of its stem
and then wholly removed, be called sporting 1 This is a question
which will require to be better understood before being answered
either affirmatively or negatively with any degree of confidence ;
and while no explanation is forthcoming, the only sensible course to
pursue is to reserve our judgment while evidence is being collected.

As may be guessed, the above has been suggested by the discussion
on the Culford Vine sport, so called — rightly or wrongly, I do not
pretend to say. But as the particulars of that case were stated in
good faith by men respected for their intelligence and professional
attainments, sneers and clumsy jokes are not likely to have much in-
fluence among those who have given some little attention to such
matters. The case is exactly similar to the Jasmine ; and if the thing
is credible in the one case, it is equally credible in the other. It cer-
tainly is an extremely unlikely thing to happen ; but until we have
more instances, we ought simply to reserve our judgment, as we have
said before, and especially when we remember that such things are

iS79-] CULTURE OF HOYA BELLA. 143

really not quite unknown. Were the thing actually deserving atten-
tion, I might point out that some of the matter written against the
very idea of its being at all to be believed is really not criticism.
Personally, I am quite unknown to any of those whose names have
been mixed up with the matter, and have no interest in defending
either one side or the other. A. Honeyman.

Hope Park.

[We scarcely think the case of the Jasmine, referred to by our correspondent,
can be considered a parallel case to the Culford Vine sport. Such sporting as
that of a variegated branch appearing on green plants is common enough, and
in some cases the insertion of a variegated scion ultimately leads to the stock
producing similar variegation, but always the same flower and fruit as the
normal green plant. These productions can be perpetuated indefinitely by the
ordinary methods of propagation. The Culford sport was said to be a bunch
of Golden Champion, produced from the wood and foliage of Trebbiano, which
is a very different phenomenon ; and its correctness is doubted, because no par-
allel case to it is to be found on record, and because the wood and foliage that
were supposed to have produced the said bunch failed to do so again. We not
long ago saw a bunch of Trebbiano with such abnormally large berries that it
might easily be mistaken for Golden Champion. And we have been eye and
ear witness to the very best of judges mistaking Buckland's Sweetwater for Duke
of Buccleuch first, and when the judge was contradicted, he said, " Then it is
Golden Champion." We have plenty instances of the best of judges making
such blunders, but no instance of the fruit of one Vine supposed to be found on
the wood and foliage of another, except in the case of the sport in question.
—Ed.]

CULTURE OF HOYA BELLA.

This beautiful species is popularly known as the honey-plant or wax-
flower, and well deserves a place in every collection of stove-plants,
however small. Its waxy white flowers, with beautiful rose-coloured
centre, are produced very freely from midsummer to far on in
the autumn months, and are especially adapted for bouquets, &c,
although some object to them for that purpose, owing to the umbels
being so stiff-looking ; but that defect can be somewhat remedied by
"wiring" the individual flowers — or even two or three can be put
together and used towards the centre of the bouquet, where light
colours are indispensable, using larger and more dark-coloured flowers
toward the extremities. The plant is of a semi-scandent, compact,
free-flowering habit, and is very suitable for growing in baskets sus-
pended from the roof of the stove just above or near the passages,
where the delicate flowers can be easily seen by those walking round
the house. The baskets generally used for this purpose are made of
stout wire, and are very ornamental. They should be well lined with
fresh Sphagnum moss before the soil and plants are put into them ; and

144 THE GARDENER. [March

they must not on any occasion be allowed to suffer for want of water
at the root, for in such a position they are apt to be neglected.

It also makes a beautiful exhibition-plant when grown to a large
size, and tied out to very neat, small stakes, something in the same
way that we would recommend for double Petunias. Cuttings of the
half-ripened wood will strike very freely in a gentle bottom-heat, with
plenty of moisture j and after they are well rooted, they should be
potted off singly into 2h or 3 inch pots, and kept close and shaded for
a few days from bright sun, after which gradually inure them to a light
and airy position near the glass.

The soil best adapted for them is equal parts of turfy peat and loam,
a little sharp sand, and plenty of broken pieces of charcoal to keep the
soil open.

In potting, be careful to drain the pots well, and use the soil a little
finer for young stuff than for larger plants ; and as soon as the cutting-
pots are full of roots, shift on into such larger-sized ones as may be
deemed necessary, and stake and tie the plants into proper shape.

When making their growth, they should be freely watered at the
roots and syringed overhead on fine afternoons, keeping up that degree
of humidity which is so essential in the cultivation of stove-plants in
general. This, however, must be varied according to the existing state
of the weather, as a degree of humidity may be indulged in on fine
sunny days which might prove dangerous in dull rainy weather.

The plants should also be fully exposed to the sun at all times ; and
as very fine large specimens can be grown in comparatively small pots,
we would recommend caution, when potting, not to overpot them, as
they are apt to turn yellow in the foliage and die off.

Specimens should be reduced at the root annually, and put into the
same size of pot again with fresh compost, taking care not to hurt the
roots when reducing the ball.

A very weak solution of guano and soot water may be given once
or twice a-week, when the plants are making growth and in flower,
with very beneficial results. " Dundonian."

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The monthly meeting was held on the evening of Tuesday the 4th ult., in
the hall, 5 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh — Mr M. Dunn, president, occupied
the chair. There was an unusually large attendance. A paper was read from
Mr John Cail, The Gardens, Inverary Castle, on "The arrangement of Trees,
Shrubs, and Climbing Plants in Ornamental Grounds. " After a few remarks
upon the growing popularity of these plants, which, he observed, was not with-
out good reason, seeing that they possessed such a great variety of outline and
beauty of form, the author went on to describe some of the principles neces-
sary to be acted upon in order to insure success in their grouping in the
pleasure-grounds. First of all, it was essential for planting to consider care-
fully the character and capabilities of the ground to be operated upon. The
clumps should be laid out so as to secure a wavy or irregular outline — over-
crowding to be carefully avoided ; and in the dispositions of the various sorts
in planting, care should be taken that each may have sufficient space to admit

iS7<>

CALENDAR.

145

of the development of its peculiar character. Regard should also be had to
the contrasting of tints of foliage, without which some of the finest effects were
liable to be marred.

A paper was also read from Mr Burns, The Gardens, Thingwall Hall,
Birkenhead, on the "Acclimatisation of Plants." He defined this as the
"bringing of plants from other countries, and endeavouring to naturalise or
habituate them to our changeable and ever- varying weather," and describes
some of the effects produced by light, heat, moisture, and elevation — contrast-
ing the climatic conditions of this country with those of other regions, illus-
trating his remarks by giving accounts of experiments made by himself and
others on the subject. The paper, which was full of instructive facts and
suggestions, called forth a long and very interesting discussion, the speakers
for the most part stating as their opinion that it was impossible to acclima-
tise or habituate a plant to a greater amount either of cold or heat than that
for which it was naturally constituted.

Among the articles sent for exhibition were a number of plants of a new
strain of Beet from Mr John Clark, The Gardens , Dysart House. These were
very much admired, some of them being beautifully variegated, and others of
the most brilliant crimson, quite equal in effect to the finest Dracamas. They
had been in the greenhouse all winter ; but if, as was stated, they are equally
brilliant in summer in the open air, they will soon become popular as bedding-
plants. It was announced that the Council had awarded them a first-class
certificate. Mr Macmillan, Broadmeadows, Berwick, sent collections of
Zonale Geranium and Chrysanthemum blooms ; and Mr Buchanan, Penicuik
House, had three branches of Clerodendron Balfouriana, with unusually large
bunches of flowers, in full perfection. These, he stated, were taken from a
plant growing in the border of an intermediate house, which had at present
something like forty flowers of a similar size.

The Secretary intimated that five plans of kitchen-gardens and greenhouses
had been sent iu for competition for prizes offered by the Association to young
Gardeners, and that the judges, after careful examination, had made the
following awards: — 1st, Mr Charles Warrick; 2d, Mr Webster — both of
Dalkeith Gardens ; and equal 3d to Mr Richard Parker, Hatton Hall, Guis-
boro', Yorkshire ; Mr William Taylor, 17 Frederick Street, Edinburgh ; and
Mr W. H. Divers, Messrs Veitch's Nursery, London. These plans will be ex-
hibited to the Association at its next meeting.

Reports on the weather at Broadmeadows and Dalkeith were submitted,
from which it appeared that at both places the frost was most intense on the
evening of the 14th December, the thermometer registering at the former 35°,
and at the latter 22°.

©aUn&ar*

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

We have read more than once that it
is a sure sign of a lazy gardener hav-
ing the direction of a garden which is
not in a high state of culture at this
season — the ground turned up to frost
and air, and every part of the ground
as forward as spade, hoe, or rake can
make it. However, we would be in-
clined to demur to such an accusation
being laid to any gardener this season,
even with a superabundance of labour-
power (very few have enough of this
commodity). In all the gardens we have
seen this season there has been no op-
portunity of advancing work. First
there was the wet weather, when well-

managed gardens were nearly destitute
of vacant ground, being filled through-
out with useful crops. Then came the
frost, which kept the soil icebound for
about nine weeks. The wet (middle
of February) leaves every portion of
ground soaked, so that it would be
foolhardy to set a foot on the soil ; and
when it becomes dry enough for man-
ipulation, the first work will be to clear
off dead and decaying Broccoli, trim
the rag-looking leaves from Brussels
Sprouts, clear off all manner of litter
and eye-offending material ; so that if
one is to be ready to take advantage of
" March dust," garden labour must be

146

THE GARDENER.

[March

expeditiously carried forward. Manure
will, in most eases, be wheeled on
to vacant spaces, and preparation for
cropping will now be the order of the
day. Dry soil for seed-sowing is of
much importance. Sowing thinly is
a matter to be considered when free-
growing crops are expected ; and if
seeds have been proved and found
good, they should not be cast into the
drills at random, but evenly, so that
each plant will come up clear of its
fellow — and thinning done as early
as possible, so that crowding may be
avoided. Covering of seeds deeply is
often the cause of failure ; replacing
the soil over them in the drills when
it is wet, battering the surface like
mortar, is an evil to be avoided. In
heavy wet soils, which go together
tenaciously after rain, seeds of the
smaller class do not vegetate readily ;
and where it is practicable, a quantity
of dry soil, from potting-sheds or else-
where, may be used with great advan-
tage. Now is the time to make larger
sowings of Peas and Beans — and better
to do it every ten or twelve days than
run any risk of an interval between
the supplies. Two or three kinds may
be sown at one time, choosing kinds
to form successions, which come into
use as others begin to decline in bear-
ing. Some of the dwarf Peas, as Blue
Peter, are useful for sowing between
larger kinds sown in rows a good dis-
tance apart — the stakes of taller Peas
affording shelter to many crops sown
between the rows, as well as Peas and
Beans. The last named are, as a rule,
not recpiired in large quantities, and
sowings must be made in proportion
to demand. Peas may be sown more
thickly now than during the warmer
months. In rich land, they do well
planted in wide drills two or three
inches apart. They branch out and give
heavy crops of fine pods, and are less
likely to be destroyed by drought or
mildew : loose rich soil placed over the
seed is of much advantage to them. A
border for early seed may be in readi-
ness : it should be deeply trenched,
well broken, and a good dash of sand
or light soil worked into the surface.
If there are frames, hand-lights, sashes
(which can be placed on bricks), or
boxes covered with glass, to afford pro-
tection from weather and birds, such
would reduce the labours and anxiety
of cultivators ; but such coverings are
often abused by neglecting to uncover

I the seeds when they require air and
I light in abundance. Nothing does
well when coddled unnaturally. On
this early border may be sown Brus-
sels Sprouts, Cabbage (early compact
kinds), Carrots (Short Horn), Cauli-
flower, Lettuce, Parsley for trans-
planting, Radish, a pinch of Savoy,
Scotch Kale, Borecole, and a little
Turnip may be tried, but it runs
quickly to seed. A gentle hotbed
answers well for Turnips, and also
Carrots and Radishes. The latter
will be coming on well for use where
they were sown early in the season.
Thinning may be necessary ; but where
they were carefully sown, the produce
may be drawn for use as they grow.
A pinch of Grange's, Snow's, and
Veitch's protecting Broccoli may be
sown for early autumn supply. Red-
lead mixed with a little dry soil may
be dusted over these seeds, to check
the depredations of mice and other
vermin. Celery may be sown under
glass twice in the month ; at end of
month, a sowing may be made on a
sheltered border and covered with a
hand-light, or protected at night from
frost by hoops and mats. Plants
of Celery being brought forward for
earliest crops under glass, such as pits
or frames, must be kept in an even
temperature — about 55°, or a little
more — not drenched with cold water.
Have air on every favourable opportu-
nity, all the light possible, and in no
way exposed to sudden changes of any
kind. Drought to check the roots
will soon drive the young plants to
premature seeding. Beet may be
sown in small proportions to give an
early supply ; but the main crops may
be left till late in April, and to the
beginning of May in warm southern
districts. Deep, well-broken soil, not
too rich, suits this root. Chillies may
still be sown, and also the larger kinds
of Capsicums. Those up and growing
should be potted singly, to do them
well. They require light and air free-
ly when it can be admitted, but are
easily injured by cold currents. Leeks
may be sown in a bed for planting
from into rich ground. Where cir-
cumstances will allow, they do well
when sown in a well-prepared trench,
heavily manured, and afterwards treat-
ed like Celery. Onions should not be
out of the ground longer than possible,
though we have sown them late in
April with much success. They are

i879-]

CALENDAR.

147

likely to be matured early when sown
in good time. The same applies to
Parsnips. Spinach may be sown be-
tween bushes, other vegetable crops,
or in any spare ground. Good Spinach
is never had from poor, shallow soil.
Sow every eight or ten days : the plants
soon run to seed, and are worthless.
Tomatoes should be treated like Cap-
sicums in their young stages. Keep
them near the glass, and give them
plenty of air. Pot them on to get
stroDg plants for planting out under
protection. It is now a good time to
sow seed for planting out at end of May,
where they can be grown out -doors,
which is not often the case in cold
northerly climates. Tomatoes which
have been fruiting during the winter
should not be cropped heavily, but have
liquid-manure where roots are plentiful.
Vegetable Marrows, to be grown on in
frames and pits, may be sown at end
of month, and kept growing evenly in
moderate heat. So may also Gherkins
and ridge Cucumbers. Rapid growth
with these courts defeat. Crops of
Potatoes in frames and pots may be
brought forward with plenty of light
and air, taking the lights right oft"
(where such can be done) during mild
days. Add a surfacing of light earth,
and water when necessary with tepid
water. Plant Potatoes of the early
Kidney kinds on a warm, well-pre-
pared border. Drills formed, and the
tubers covered in them with light
genial soil, is a good system for early
crops. Peas may be planted from the
boxes, turves, pots, or whatever they
have been grown in. They should be
well hardened to the wreather before

| they are turned out. A quantity of
light rich earth placed with the roots
when planted will help to start them.
Stake them at once, and stick in some
branches of laurels to break winds
from north or east. Plant Cabbage
in drills; also Cauliflowers on rich
soils. The latter under hand-lights
may be well surfaced with rich soil, or
mulched with half-rotted manure and
old turf chopped up. Those in pots
ready for planting out should be
gradually hardened, but not pot-
bound. Keep up supplies of Sea-
kale, Asparagus, and other forced
produce, as required. French Beans
will now bear freely. Water care-
fully, and give liquid-manure, clear
and healthy, when they are bearing
and roots plentiful. Attend to stak-
ing and surfacing, as may be required.
Stakes and other requisites will be
in readiness, as the frosty weather
gave opportunity to prepare for the
busy season. All preparations for
new Asparagus, Seakale, and Pvhu-
barb plantations may have attention.
Manure well for these. Asparagus beds
may be slightly forked over. Arti-
chokes (Globe) may be much injured,
and many killed : examine them, and
prepare for new plantations accord-
ingly. Jerusalem Artichokes may now
be planted ; also herbs of sorts, and
Rhubarb, in rich soil. Forced Rhu-
barb may be hardened gradually, di-
vided, and planted. No portion of the
garden wrhere crops are growing should
remain untouched by prong, hoe, or
other soil-cultivator. Sweet, whole-
some surfaces are of much importance
to crops. M. T.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines.— Considering the excessive
cold of the last three months, it is
more than probable that the majority
of early-fruiting Queens that are usu-
ally past the flowering stage by the
end of last month are only coming
into bloom at the beginning of this
month. Until they have set all their
pips, the atmosphere should be only
moderately moist, although there is
not the danger now of their not set-
ting well that exists earlier in the
year. As soon as they begin to swell
freely, the plants may be very lightly
moistened three times weekly through
a fine syringe at shutting-up time on

fine bright days. Now that the sun
has more power, and the day s are longer,
the temperature may run up to from
80° to 85°, when the pinery is shut up
with sun-heat. The night temperature
may now be advanced to 70°; and
with a steady bottom-heat of 8o° to
90°, the fruits will make rapid pro-
gress. Water with guano - water at
the rate of two ounces to four gallons
of water, and keep the soil steadily
moist. The rest of the fruiting
Queens intended to ripen in succes-
sion to the earliest should now be
subjected to the same temperatures
recommended above. Should they

148

THE GARDENER.

[March

show the slightest tendency to grow
instead of fruiting, give them no more
water until they start than is just
enough to prevent them from su tier-
ing. Late - started fruits of smooth
Cayennes or any other winter sorts will
now make rapid progress, and some
of them may begin to colour by the
eud of the month. And at this season
they should have very little water
after they begin to change colour— at
the same time do not let them become
dusty-dry. If early autumn succers
were not shifted into their fruiting-
pots last month, lose no time in
shifting them now. The soil should
be placed in some warm place for a
few days before it is used, and the
balls of the young plants should be in
a medium state of moisture at the time
they are shifted. Plunge them in a
bottom-heat of 85° ; range the night
temperature at 65° at 10 p.m., falling
to 60° by 6 a.m. If the weather be
sunny and the soil used rather dry —
as it should be — the plants should be
watered immediately they are plunged.
When the weather is bright, give
them a very light dewing overhead
three times weekly with tepid water,
when shut up early with a sun-heat of
80°, for an hour or two. Give more or
less air daily, according to the weather,
increasing it as the plants begin to
grow. Examine later succers by the
end of the month, and if well rooted
and healthy, shift them ; but if from
any cause these have the soil deranged
by such as worms or drip, it is best to
shake them entirely out, repotting
them into 7 or 8 inch pots, according
to their size. All plants intended for
starting about three months hence
should still be kept quiet, only see
that they do not become over dry at
the root. The soil should be moist
aud nothing more, and the tempera-
ture 5° lower than has been recom-
mended for fruiting-plants. Any por-
tion of the stock intended for later
fruiting, and that are now in 8-inch
pots, should be shifted into 10 and 11
inch pots, according to the state they
are in, and encouraged to grow as
directed for succession plants.

Vines. — If all late Grapes have not
already been cut and used or bottled,
the sooner they are bottled the better
now, so as to get the Vines pruned and
kept as cool as possible for a time.
All wounds made in pruning should
be immediately seared with a hot

I iron, and dressed thrice over with
styptic, to prevent any chance ot
bleeding. All cleaning necessary
should also be attended to, and all
the dusty -dry part of the surface of
the inside border removed, and re-
placed with a rich top-dressing, and
the border thoroughly well watered.
Early Grapes are later this spring
than usual, owing to the severe win-
ter. Owing to the amount of fire-
heat that has been required, the foli-
age should be carefully examined for
red-spider, and if any be found, let it
be sponged oil" at once. Every advan-
tage should now be taken of bright
sunny weather to shut up as early in
the afternoon as will run up the tem-
perature to 80° for a short time, allow-
ing it to drop to 65° by 10 p.m., un-
less when very mild, when it may be
a few degrees higher. But it is
better to do the forcing as much as
possible by day, and keep moderate
night temperatures. In changeable
days the fires should not be allowed
to become very low, so that sudden
changes can be more efficiently met.
If this early crop be in pots, they will
now require much more water than for
the last two months. Give each pot
a dessert spoonful of Standen's manure,
and if not already done, top-dress the
surface of the ball with some rich
manure. Permanent Vines now in
bloom should have a slightly drier
atmosphere for a few days, when the
pollen is being developed. Give each
bunch a gentle tap on its main stem ;
and where any shy-setting sorts are in
bloom, they will be benefited by the
application of pollen from freer sorts,
such as Black Hamburgs. All super-
fluous bunches should be removed be-
fore the blooming period, and the
berries thinned when of the size of
sparrow-shot; unless, of course, in the
case of shy setters, which should not
be finally thinned until the stoneless
berries can be detected. The night
temperature for these should be 65° in
mild, and 60° in cold weather. "When
the nights are cold and the pipes have
to be slightly hotter, a gentle sprink-
ling of the floor of the house early in
the morning may be necessary to
prevent aridity ; but, as a rule, we
do not advise much sprinkling, ex-
cept at shutting - up time on fine
afternoons. Disbud, stop, and tie
down the young growths in succession -
houses. In the case of young vigorous

I879-]

CALENDAR.

149

Vines, the tying down must be gone
about with care ; for if too severely
brought down at onetime, the growths
are apt to give way at their union
with the old wood, so that they re-
quire to be brought down by degrees.
Muscats and Gros Colmans intended
to ripen in September should now be
started ; and in doing this see that
the inside border, where such exists,
is well watered with tepid water if
possible. The end of this month is a
good time to plant young Vines raised
from eyes last season. Shake the soil
from their roots, wash them with clean
water, disentangle the rootlets, and
dash a handful or two of dry sand
about them. In planting them, and
where there is an inside border (as
there ought to be in all vineries),
spread most of the roots towards the
back of the vinery, for the roots have
a tendency to proceed outwards un-
less freely dealt with inside. After
watering them well, keep the heat
at 55° at night until they have grown
two inches, when it may be raised a
few degrees; but do not force an early
growth out of them just now.

Peaches. — The night temperature
of the early house should not yet
exceed 55° when cold and 60° when
mild ; with a dull cold day tempera-
ture of 5° or 8° more. Syringe the
trees with tepid water when the house
is shut up, and let the temperature
rise to 75° for a time. See that the
inside border is kept moist ; and if
the trees be old and require stimulat-
ing, water alternately with guano and
dung water. As soon as the fruit are
stoned, 5° more heat may be applied.
Thin the fruit to about one to 10
inches or a foot apart, according to
the vigour of the trees. Very heavy
crops of early Peaches are never satis-
factory— unless, indeed, the trees be
young and in the prime of vigour :
two line peaches are certainly to be
preferred to three inferior ones. Look
carefully over the young growths, and
where it cannot be laid in without
crowding, thin a portion of it out.
Where the fruits are set and the
size of large peas, go over them and
carefully thin off such as are not in
good positions, and where they are
in clusters, always leaving the largest
and best - shapen ones. Disbud all
advancing trees by degrees, first re-
moving all the front and back buds,
ultimately leaving the terminal bud

and two or three nearer the base of
last year's growth, according to the
length and strength of that grovth,
and the room there is for young
shoots : crowding is a great evil.
Whenever greenfly appears, get rid
of it at once.

Figs.— See that the early crop from
trees in pots is carefully attended to
with water, which may now be freely
applied, as the growth is rapid, and
Figs are greedy of moisture. Increase
the night temperature to 60°, and shut
up with sun-heat early in the after-
noon, so that the temperature stand
at 75° for a time, at the same time
syringing the foliage and otherwise
damping the house. Give air rather
freely on fine days, to keep the young

J wood stout and tit to throw a good
second crop. Pinch the point out of
each shoot at the sixth or seventh
joint. Remove all weakly growths
that are likely to crowd and are not
required to furnish the trees. Attend
to later trees in inside borders in the
way of disbudding growths that are
not required, and keeping them steadily
moist at the root. Now is a good
time to start permanent trees for a
first crop at midsummer and a second
in autumn from this year's wood.

Melons. — Train the early plants to
within 15 inches of the top of the
house before stopping them. Water
them sparingly until the lateral
growths show fruit, and let the air
moisture be moderate, especially in
dull weather. Plant out succession
plants, using a strong calcareous loam
having no dung mixed with it. Dung
is best applied as a top-dressing to
strong soil. Those planted last month
will be growing freely. Water mode-
rately, and mould up by degrees, as
the roots appear outside the heaps of
soil. The night temperature may now
be 70°. Give air early, and increase
it by degrees till noon, and then de-
crease it gradually until the house is
shut up, so that it stand at 80° for
a short time, with a corresponding
amount of moisture in the air.

Cucumbers. — See that those now
bearing freely do not suffer for want
of water, especially if grown with
bottom-heat supplied from pipes, and
without a layer of leaves and litter
between the pipes and the soil. Water
them with manure-water in a weak
state ; and if the roots appear on the

i surface, top - dress with equal parts

150 THE GARDENER. [March 1879.

horse-droppings and loam. Examine
the plants twice weekly, stopping
young growths, and regulating and
removing such as are not required,
and all ill - shaped Cucumbers. Do
not allow them to bear too many at
one time, or it will weaken the plants.
Kange the temperature to about 70"

is necessary, and they must never be
allowed to suffer for want of it. A
good plan is to till pots half full of
soil and place the Strawberry-pots in
them ; they root freely into the soil,
and the pot shades the roots from the
sun. The night temperature for fruit
should be 65°. Plants in bloom set

with 10° or 15° more on the afternoons I best at 55°, with a little air on all
of bright days. I night. Put more plants into heat,

I according to the stock and room. By
Strawberries in Pots. — Thin off , the end of the month place all the
all blind blooms and small fruits from 1 store stock in cold pots or orchard-
the trusses of those that are well set. i houses, to be coming on gradually be-
As the days get brighter more water fore being placed in warmer quarters.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in ' The Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not for
publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and address
of writer.

D. P. M.— Rhododendron Aucklandii, one of the finest of the Indian species.

James Moir. — The young growths of your Dendrobium should be encouraged
to come from the base of last year's growths, and not from their tops. 1 To this
end remove those from the top as soon as they appear, unless you want them
for increasing your stock, in which case leave them till they begin to throw
out roots.

'Plans of Flower-gardens, Beds, Borders, and Rosaries.' — A correspon-
dent will be glad to hear if any copy of this work is to be had. It was origin-
ally published by the proprietors of the 'Journal of Horticulture,' 171 Fleet
Street, London.

Hot Water.— Your boiler will heat all the pipe you propose to attach to
it for ordinary purposes. For early forcing it would have to be fired vigor-
ously.

L' Allegro.— Summer-cloud can be supplied by Nurserymen — at least we
have no difficulty in getting it from them. It is excellent for shading.

\y# M. — We have noted the heading to the paragraph leader in our contem-
porary, but cannot act as you suggest. It is a shocking profanation and pros-
titution of one of the most solemn passages of Scripture.

THE

GARDENER.

APRIL 1879.

THE LATE SEVERE WINTER AND A FEW
OF ITS LESSONS.

HE past winter, and some of the lessons it has been calcu-
lated to teach horticulturists, will long be remembered.
In some districts, and probably in the south-west of Scot-
land in particular, there is no record of cold so protracted
and severe. For the sixty-two days of December and
January there were 11° of frost for each clay, and, including February,
there were 9° frost for each of the ninety days of the three months ;
and while we write — 11th March — the frost is not yet out of the
ground.

Some writers have been reckoning up the injury done to vegetation
by the very long period of low temperature, but we consider it even
yet too soon to arrive at a correct estimate, vegetation being unusually
late, and, until the sap begins to rise more freely under the influence
of more sun, the results cannot be wholly visible. Common vege-
tables have suffered , to an extent that we have not witnessed or
heard of in forty years' experience. AVe have seldom seen Eoses so
severely injured, notwithstanding the fine ripening effects of the last
warm summer and autumn. Although the time has not yet arrived
to determine it, we have a suspicion that Pear-buds are very consider-
ably crippled; but as the full extent of the injury done to outdoor
vegetation cannot yet be correctly estimated, we will turn to another
department of horticulture, in connection with which some very for-
cible lessons have been given by such a winter.

M

152 THE GARDENER. [April

In the early forcing department the effects of the long cold season
have been most apparent in the slow and comparatively little progress
of such crops as early Grapes, Pines, Peaches, Strawberries, &c. No
doubt experienced gardeners may now be able to make up some of the
lost time by a more rapid forcing pace. Though this may to some
extent be a necessity, it is not by any means a desirable one. Beyond
doubt, those who have attempted to force early Vines and Peach-trees,
having their roots chiefly in outside borders, have reaped an experi-
ence that ought to demonstrate the absurdity of the theory held by
some, that earth-heat is an immaterial condition. To force Vines,
with their roots in a much lower temperature than the atmosphere of
the vinery, is one of the most flagrant violations of the laws of nature,
and to arrive at anything like thoroughly satisfactory results, by prac-
tically controverting these laws, is impossible. This subject has been
warmly discussed at intervals, since ever we had any acquaintance
with horticultural literature, and, perhaps, never more warmly than
during the last twelve months. It is, in truth, remarkable that this
should be the case. The marvel appears to us to be that more effici-
ent arrangements have not long ago been adopted for affording more
favourable, because more natural, conditions to the roots of Vines
and Peaches that are forced throughout the winter months.

Covering up the borders in early autumn with non-conducting
material to conserve the natural heat of summer, and the allowing of
that heat first to escape, and — at midwinter when forcing is com-
menced— to force more heat into the border by means of a hotbed of
litter and leaves, are the two systems pitted against each other by
controversialists. In a certain way, and to a certain extent, these
systems answer the end in view. But neither the way nor the extent
are good imitations of the natural way. They are, however, in many
instances, the only available methods. The objections to them are, in
the first place, that they are laborious and very untidy ; but our
greatest objection is that the surface of the border is reduced to an
unnatural state of soddenness, and the roots near the surface are
very apt to be roots that are very easily injured when the mucky
coverings are removed.

It is astonishing, now so many Grapes are forced early, that
vineries are not erected on more correct and rational principles for
this purpose. In the construction of early vineries and peacheries a
much more efficient and natural way of preserving the natural heat of
autumn in the soil, and of augmenting it at the proper time, should
be provided for. This could be done much more effectually, and in
the long-run at less expense, than by the cumbrous, untidy, and to
some extent injurious, systems in common practice. The winter and

iS79-] THE LATE SEVERE WINTER. 153

early spring heat necessary to the stems and foliage of Vines, which
in summer is chiefly supplied by the sun, we supply by the best imi-
tation of nature within our reach — namely, hot water; and we are of
opinion that a modification of the same principle would be the most
efficient and best way of affording heat to the roots that are not under
the same roof with the stems. It may be asked, Why not have all
the roots of early Vines in the vinery 1 That certainly would be a
step in the right direction. But we have noticed, in a long experience,
that Vines with their roots all inside a narrow border, have never
been so satisfactory as when a considerable portion of them were in
outside borders. And supposing that the roots are equally located in
an inside and outside border, and that they do best so (as we believe
they do), why not, now that glass is so cheap, efficiently cover the
outside portion with a glass case, and run a flow, or flow and return,
hot-water pipe through it. It would be the simplest thing imaginable
to have a stout movable framework for the border of the early
.vinery, with a pipe attached to the inside pipes, that could be removed
in summer — frame and pipe and all — with the greatest of ease. In
midwinter the surface of this glass case could be covered with mats
or frigi-clomo, and, when the sun gains power in February and March,
sun-heat could be shut and covered up in it, just as in the vinery
itself. It may be argued against this that the border heats slowly
from the top. We think this is an assumption, and nothing more.
The natural heat of the earth in summer is surely the result of heat
from above, as well as the prevention of radiation from a certain
depth below the surface.

One of the greatest obstacles in connection with the early forcing
of Pines, Vines, Peaches, Strawberries, Cucumbers, &c, which has
no doubt been forcibly experienced during the recent severe time,
is the lamentably unmethodical — we had almost said stupid — way in
which the houses are too frequently arranged and placed in relation
to each other ; when, as is very of cen the case, all these crops have
to be forced simultaneously. Even in many of the most pretentious
gardens, the arrangements are what may be termed the most hap-
hazard and inconvenient. The various houses are dotted about, just
as if there had been a shower of them. Their relations with each
other, and with the heating-power, could scarcely be more stupidly
planned. In many cases the houses are widely apart ; or, if nearer
each other, they are often on different levels. Every one of these
early forcing structures should be, if possible, in the same range : the
floors and hot-water pipes in the whole should as nearly as possible
be on the same level, where all, or several of them, are heated by one
boiler. The heat can then, in a severe winter and spring, be much

154 THE GARDENER. [April

more nicely balanced (as much by a judicious allotment of pipes as-
by valves) than when pipes from the same boiler are working at
different levels. This is a principle far too much ignored in erecting
forcing-houses. And we appeal to those who have had experience of
forcing-houses at different levels, heated from the same fire, if the
attendant evils have not been very conspicuous during the past
winter, when hard firing had to be resorted to.

Small houses, necessarily enclosing a small or thin volume of airr
are strongly advocated by some, as capable of being kept at a more
equable temperature in cold, fitful, winter weather. A recent writer
in a contemporary has laboured hard to prove this ; but his demon-
stration appeared to us to be very lame and defective. Our experience,
not to speak of anything else, has taught us the very reverse, and we
have always found a small narrow structure fluctuate much more
sensitively to the influence of cold or sun-heat from without. The
principle involved we conceive to be the same as that by which a thin
bar of iron, or a thin anything else, cools more quickly than a thicker
one. We have for years cut Grapes and gathered Peaches in April
from houses only 8 feet wide, and have done the same from much
larger bouses, and always found the larger ones more easily dealt with
in the matter of steady temperature. And we consider no early
vinery or peach-house, to be satisfactory in this respect, should be less
than 16 feet wide ; and we shall be disappointed if many early forcers
have not verified this in the last severe winter.

EVERGREEN HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS IN
THE PARTERRE.

There is a very numerous class of hardy perennials with evergreen
foliage which may be used in the flower-garden with good effect in
summer in conjunction with the usual classes of summer bedding-
plants. A more general introduction of the hardy perennial classes of
plants with evergreen or persistent leaves with the varied tones of
green, grey, white, yellow, and bronze, which they offer at all seasons
of the year, would, I think, be a step in the right direction in many
cases. Individually, even in pots or in small patches, many of the
species which I allude to, and which I will particularise more fully
further on, are very attractive at all times ; but in masses of some
breadth, or broad lines or bands, they would be still more so. Much
of the difficulty that is experienced in mitigating the evils of empty
beds and borders in winter would be done away with if suitable hardy
plants could be found that may be adapted to the style of bedding-out
that finds most favour with the flower-gardening public at present. I
think there is no difficulty as to the plants— they are plentiful, and may

1879.] EVERGREEN HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 155

easily be obtained by the thousand if the demand is raised, as the
various kinds that are suitable may be increased by the simplest means
ad libitum. Not a few of the class to which I invite attention in this
paper are already employed in the parterre in summer in various ways.
Carpet-bedding has drawn a few of the more suitable forms of Semper-
vivums, Saxifragas, and a few other hardy perennials into service with
excellent effect in that style of garden decoration. In geometrical
designs two hardy plants of similarly adaptable habit of growth are
successfully introduced, with perfect harmony alike with the design
and the gayer classes of plants more commonly employed for the sum-
mer furnishing of the flower-garden. An old familiar plant, such as
Pennyroyal {Mentha pulegium), only requires to appear with its leaves
tinted golden instead of green ; or the pretty but weedy Stitchwort
(Stellaria) to assume the same hue instead of its pale grassy green, to
become the pet plants of the period with flower-gardeners. Neither of
these is in the category which I am considering. They are not ever-
green, or rather ever-yellow, to such a degree as to render them com-
mendable for the purpose of clothing the bare surface of the earth in
winter ; but being familiar plants to flower-gardeners, their habit of
growth will serve to illustrate a considerable number of the species
and varieties of hardy plants which I should like to see more generally
employed in the way spoken of. There cannot beany objection to the
introduction of plants of similar habit to these, if only they can be
proved to have colour sufficiently distinct and pronounced to aid in
producing a contrast or pitching a harmony with something else.
Well, the proof will be more or less difficult just according to the depth
of the prejudices of those who address themselves to the weighing of
it. But those who are in earnest about the improvement of flower-
gardening, and about getting the largest amount of pleasure at all
seasons of the year from the flower-garden as a result of their efforts
and outlay, will have few prejudices to overcome : they will test and
try and judge all subjects that may be brought before them on their
merits. This is exactly what I should wish to see done with many of
the plants which I shall name and briefly describe before I close this
paper.

The styles of flower-gardens to which I consider the class of plants
in view best adapted are terrace-gardens, where either box or stone
edgings are used, or panelled ones, in which the design is viewed from
a greater or less elevation, and which are based in gravel-walks or de-
ficient in surrounding masses of green. Being all plants of a neat
compact habit of growth, which will be improved by the close attention,
in keeping to which they would be subjected in the flower-garden, they
are capable of being worked into any design, no matter how intricate.
The perfection of the summer keeping would tend to enhance their
beauty in winter. It is only when they are allowed to degenerate into
untidy condition that many of the neatest and prettiest of the ever-

156 THE GARDENER. [April

green alpine and other dwarf-growing evergreen perennials become
unattractive in any position in which they may be placed, and this
untidiness leads to their becoming patchy and rusty in winter.

I will now proceed to give a list, with slight descriptions of the
species which are best adapted to the object in view. The list will be
more suggestive than exhaustive, the aim being to present a few of the
best only.

Aubrietia, in some variety as regards the size of the leaves and vigour
of growth, and somewhat also in the particular shades of green winch
the several forms present, are very neat pretty plants with their leaves
arranged rosette fashion. They are of spreading, yet close-carpeting
habit, and when well attended to in the matter of trimming and
equalising their growth during the growing season, they make a very
pleasing soft carpet of green. These are favourite plants with many
for spring bedding, and are very beautiful for three months in favour-
able weather, clothed as they are during that period in the beautiful
purple and deep lavender flowers that they severally present. This is
a consideration that may be objectionable in the flower-garden in the
way in which I wish to recommend these and other subjects of similar
character, except it be utilised by placing next to it something that
would contrast or harmonise with it in its flowering season, which is
often prolonged into June, and therefore into the earlier part of the
summer display. The variegated form of A. deltoidea is one of the
most attractive of minute variegated plants at all times, and is partic-
ularly beautiful when in flower.

Arabis albida and alpina are considerably larger growers than
either of the Aubrietias, but in general style of growth they are similar.
They are by no means so neat, but by careful trimming and annual
renewing of the stock by means of cuttings, they are trim plants of
three or four inches in height. The former is the stronger of the two.
Both have their leaves in rosulate tufts at the extremities of the
branches, and they are of a light hoary green. They are splendid
plants for spring flowering, continuing from March till June. Con-
sidering the profusion and long continuance of their display, it may
reasonably be wondered why they are so seldom met with in use as
spring bedders. .There are variegated forms of both, but Alpina is the
best of the two, both in the normal colour and variegated.

Arabis lucida has a variegated form which is one of the most beauti-
ful of all hardy variegated perennials. It is somewhat difficult to keep,
but is worth trying to keep, being always fresh and attractive. The
plants should be propagated from cuttings, annually renewing the
stock in the beds every spring, or at bedding-out time. A dry, moder-
ately light soil suits it best ; but extreme drought is inimical to its
wellbeing. The flowers should not be permitted to develop in this
form ; they weaken the plant much, and very often lead to its destruc-
tion ; they are, besides, in no sense ornamental.

1S79O EVERGREEN HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 157

Iberis corifolia. — This is one of the dwarfest and most beautiful of
the genus. The foliage is of a deep olive green colour, and if propa-
gated by means of cuttings annually, no more compact plant can be
imagined, — the flowers pure white, in compact, rounded umbels. In
all respects it is the finest of the genus. Any of the Iberises may be
employed in the way proposed, and should be propagated annually for
the purpose. The flowers, if objectionable, may be cut away, and the
freshness of the foliage will be enhanced thereby. They are all dwarf
plants, not exceeding four or five inches high in the foliage line. They
vary slightly in height when in flower.

Stonecrops (Sedums) offer numerous green and glaucous species
which are attractive during the winter, as they also are in the summer
months. Amongst the best in colour and habit are — S. album, which
mats and clothes the surface of the ground with its numerous stems,
thickly set with bright brownish-green leaves. The flowers are white,
supported on stems about six inches high, forming dense masses about
Jane and July. S. anglicum forms tufts of lively-green, dwarf, and
mat-like flowers —white, often tinged with pink. S. rupestre, having
larger leaves and a more robust habit than either of the foregoing, is
yet very dwarf and compact, — the leaves a glaucous tint, which is
very pleasing. The flowers are bright yellow, and appear in July and
August in terminal clusters. S. sexancjulare is a deep, slightly rufous-
green in tint, and is closely matting in habit. The flowers are yellow,
appearing in early summer. S. spurium is quite distinct from any of
the preceding, particularly in regard to the form of its leaves, which are
flat and roundish, or wedge-shaped and toothed. It forms flat tufts.
The colour is bright-green, and somewhat glaucous. The flowers are
rosy-purple, borne on decumbent stems a few inches high.

The flowers of these may be objectionable to many, and those of
some of the species are not worth being permitted to develop them-
selves on the ground of any very striking beauty they possess. But
that objection applies equally to certain others of the numerous bed-
ding-plants which are in use with variegated or glaucous leaves. The
flowers can be cut away, and the foliage effect will be enchanced thereby.
Saxifragas, in the mossy and silvery-leaved sections, present a rather
numerous list to select from. The effect of both in winter is beautiful,
especially in gardens where gravel and stone-work abound. Some of
the mossy section are peculiarly bright in winter, when they are managed
so as to prevent their becoming patchy. They should be planted every
year in order to keep them compact and smooth ; and at any time
during the growing season they may be attended to in the matter of
making good weak spots, so that a fine even surface may be constantly
maintained. S. aizoda is one of the silvery or incrusted-leaved class.
The leaves are short, blunt, and arranged in rosettes, which, like most
of this class, are liable to become tufted and uneven if they are not
annually divided and replanted. S. ccespitosa belongs to the mossy

158 THE GARDENER. [April

section, is more disposed to become tufted in the course of a year's
growth than some others, and therefore requires a little attention in
order to keep it smooth. A little pressure with the hand or foot, ap-
plied occasionally to the centre of the tufts when they begin to assume
a tendency to become uneven, will put all right. 8. crustata belongs,
as the name implies, to the incrusted group, and is similar in character
to the first named, and requires similar treatment. S. hypnoides be-
longs to the mossy section : it is less inclined to become tufted than
ccespitosa, but will require some attention in that respect in order to
keep it neat and dressy. It is, perhaps, the best of the mossy section
for the purpose in view, being compact in habit, and of a very pleasing
lively colour. Similar to, and indeed closely resembling it, are the
sorts grown under the names affinis, decipiens, hirta, incurvifolia, and
others which, by botanists, are regarded as only slight variations from
the typical form of the species. S. ligidata belongs to the incrusted
group. The leaves are narrow, and form very neat and pretty rosettes,
assuming a very bright silvery tint. It is, in fact, a miniature of the
next species, and only suitable for margining small beds and clothing
small circles with a silvery mass, in the centre of which some contrast
in colour and habit may be put. S. longifolia is one of the handsomest
of the section with crusted leaves. It has been called the queen of
Saxifragas. Others might dispute its title as applying collectively to
the genus, but it is indisputably the queen of the section to which it
belongs. When well cultivated, this beautiful plant forms leaves of
considerable length, and rosettes of perfect symmetry, seven or eight
inches across. Left to itself, it is apt to become tufted and rough, but
if divided and replanted annually, it forms one of the most attractive
carpeting plants imaginable. S. cotyledon, another of the incrusted
species, better known in one of its forms as pyramidcdis, is larger
leaved, and forms larger and bolder rosettes. It requires the same
attention in regard to annual dividing and replanting as the others of
this section. There are a few other incrusted species and varieties
which may be used — any of the section being adaptable to different
purposes and positions in the way contemplated — but it is quite need-
less to describe them. They all require similar treatment.

Sempervivums offer a few distinct forms which are already well
known to flower-gardeners as amongst the best subjects for carpet and
geometrical bedding. S. californicum, tectorum, montanum, being
three of the larger growers ; while for small or narrow lines and beds,
Jiagelliforme, soboliferum, arachnoideum, and arenarium, are very neat
and pretty.

Thymus. — Among the Thymes there are some very pretty plants for
our purpose. One of the best, Thymus lanuginosus, forms a close,
densly-spreading carpet of hoary purple foliage, clothed with fine hairs,
which impart the colour thatris so attractive in this variety. T.
azoricus takes the form of close, lively-green cushions, which will re-

i879-] A VISIT TO THE THOMERY VINEYARDS. 159

quire compressing in the centres in order to keep them smooth and
even when used in the way I suggest. T. citrioclorus aureus, the
Golden Lemon Thyme, is one of the prettiest plants in summer or
winter which has been introduced in recent years.

Such are a few of the many things that might be used with good
effect in the flower-garden. If they are handled with taste, there can
be no doubt as to the pleasing results which might be obtained, even
in summer bedding; while in winter the fresh green and glaucous
and other tints of colour which would remain would be a gain ob-
tained at small cost.

W. Sutherland.

A VISIT TO THE THOMERY VINEYARDS.

Some 45 miles south of Paris, on the Paris and Marseilles Railway, the
train lands the traveller at the secluded little station of Thomery,
lying on the skirts of the great forest of Fontainebleau, and only a few
miles beyond Fontainebleau itself, with its palace and gardens and fine
scenery, so that the traveller may visit both on the same day if he
chooses. There is nothing about the little wayside station of Thomery,
with its single porter, to lead one to suppose it is the centre of any
important industry, though we are assured that it despatches twenty
or thirty thousand pounds weight of Grapes daily to Paris during the
autumn* months. French railway stations are, as a rule, mean-looking
structures compared to those in England, and their sanitary arrange-
ments and other conveniences are simply detestable, and this applies to
the large stations in Paris as well, — at least to the older ones. St
Lazare Station is clean and pretty, and is decorated with flowers like a
drawing-room, and the Station du Nord, where English travellers are
always arriving or departing, is fitted up more in accordance with
English ideas, but the less said about some others the better. An
Englishman in France, if he wishes to judge the people charitably, in
some things, had better keep the motto " Honi soit qui mal ypense " con-
tinually before his mind ; but do as he may, he is apt to think that
French civilisation is very much made up of "tops and bottoms."
This, however, is by the way.

The village of Thomery lies about a mile and a half from the
station, and a very good bit of the forest is traversed between the two
—the trees, oak chiefly, standing thickly together like seedlings in a
hotbed. Almost as soon as one emerges from the dense shade of the
wood, he finds the road bordered on one side by Vine walls, and on
the other by a rough fence, over] which the field Vines scramble in a
semi-wild state, like Blackberry bushes, and down in the valley below
lies the village surrounded on all sides by Vineyards— some small, and

160 THE GARDENER. [April

some large, and all enclosed and sub divided by low mud-built walls,
on which the Chesseles de Fontainebleau Grapes are grown, the fields
being cropped with the commoner wine producing sorts, upon which
comparatively little pains are bestowed. Far out of the village the
walls are clothed with Vines and Pear trees, trained in the most per-
fect and methodical fashion, and bearing heavy crops of fruit. The
Grapes were not ripe at the time of our visit, early in August, but the
Pears were ; some sorts had indeed been gathered. The trees were not
protected in any way, though the fruit was hanging temptingly ripe
within arm's-length of the highway ; and the border in which the roots
of both Vines and Pears grew was only about 2 feet wide, and was
supported by a dry stone wall built along the roadside. A group of
whitewashed buildings, a little way from the road, looks very much
like a Scotch farm-steading ; but a peep within the enclosure shows
that the arrangements and appliances are of a different order, and
relate exclusively to the culture of the Vine. The walls of the court,
the dwelling house, and sheds, &c, are all covered with the Chesseles
de Fontainebleau (Royal Muscadine) Grape, and at a glance one can see
that every shoot, and almost every leaf, is trained in its allotted space,
and all the laterals stopped and pinched as if they had been newly gone
over. It is the same in the village. Every wall appears as if it had
just been newly white-washed, and every cottage on south, east, and
west exposures, is covered with a mantle of green Vine foliage, under
which the bunches hang in profusion, literally touching each other in
some places. Every bit of available space is utilised, and not an inch
more growth is permitted than is necessary to the successful fruition
of the plant, which is cropped as heavily as it will bear. An English
gardener is rather disconcerted at the appearance of the "Vine borders"
in front of the houses — the border is the street, and is paved with large
boulders right up to stems of the Vines. Yet both wood and foliage
are remarkably good and clean — scarcely any trace of spiders or mildew
to be seen, — and the leaves large and leathery, and of a substance
never seen on an English Vinery. Of course, the thrifty cottagers
simply utilise their walls in this way, and attend to the training and
general culture of their Vines in the evenings ; just as the English
cottager looks after his Potato plot and garden when his day's work is
done.

In the Vineyards proper, devoted to the culture of dessert Grapes,
Vines are trained to low walls from 6 feet to 10 feet high, and coped
with brick tiles, the parallel strips of ground between the walls being
devoted to the production of common wine-producing Grapes chiefly ;
some of the better sorts are also trained on espaliers on the open
ground. M. Rose Charmeux, is one of the principal cultivators in the
district, and his handsome residence, something like a gentleman
farmer's in England, is a prominent feature in the village. The pro-
prietor himself was in Paris acting as a juror at one of the fortnightly

1879.] A VISIT TO THE THOMERY VINEYARDS. 161

shows in connection with the Exhibition, at the time of our visit, but
his foreman, whom we found engaged trimming in some beds of Coleus
and Begonias growing rampant in front of his employer's house,
courteously showed us all that was worth seeing in the establishment.
There is nothing in the culture of the Vine at Thomery that partic-
ularly arrests the English Grape-grower's attention, unless it be the
skill and method displayed in the training of the Vines, so as to get
the greatest amount of fruit from a given space, combined with the
cheap and simple, not to say primitive, but perfectly effective appli-
ances employed to meet the end in view. There can be no doubt, we
think, that the French excel us in making the most of means and
appliances. Where we spend money they spend extra labour and atten-
tion, and with better and more constant results. This fact forces itself
upon the stranger at once.

The winter of the north of France is more severe than in this country, as
is indicated by the single fact that the Auracaria imbricata is not hardy
there, and consequently not planted as an ornamental tree, and the spring
frosts are also severe, yet we are assured that the Vine crops at Thomery
seldom or never fail although the protective appliances — old-fashioned
copings and sheets — are much the same as those used in this country
fifty years ago or more. Expensive patent glass copings and suchlike
are unheard of. Brick, deal, and plaited-straw copings, 9 inches or
1 foot wide, were shown at the Paris Exhibition, but no glass ones, by
French makers at least. Our settled conviction is that there is nothing
to hinder dessert Grapes from being grown in the south of England
just as successfully as at Thomery, and with the same means, if the culti-
vator would take the same amount of pains in their culture. Crops
would undoubtedly be a little later in England, but not much, and it
is perfectly possible to ripen Grapes after the autumn frosts set in.
The Muscadine ripens in August and September at Thomery, and on
espaliers later ; but behind M. R. Charmeux's house there is an arch-
way or covered walk, planted entirely with Black Hamburgs, or
Frankenthal, as it is called there, which we were informed ripened
a crop in October. Under this archway the bunches seemed to hang
as thick as leaves, and were all hand-thinned. The spur system of
training, in some form or other, is generally adopted. When the Vines
are trained vertically, they are planted 16 inches apart and the shoots
are mostly trained from one spur, 8 or 9 inches apart, and as often as
otherwise the shoots bear two bunches each, about half a pound in
weight. It may therefore be guessed how heavy the crops are. We have
heard of 40 lb. to 20 feet rods in this country, the canes being trained
4 feet apart, but the Thomery growers exceed this in some instances,
as regards the Vine rod, and generally we should say as regards space.
On one young Vine of Foster's Seedling, which is becoming a
favourite for wall-culture, we counted 18 bunches on a :od about 5 feet
long, and we estimated the bunches at a pound weight ai iece ; some

162 THE GARDENER. [April

of them would be 2 lb. Indeed we never saw much finer bunches of
that variety. In flavour it is not so good as the Muscadine, but its
cropping qualities are a recommendation. The Vine that bore the
above number of bunches had just a strip of wall 16 inches wide
allotted to it like the others. No doubt the hardier constitution acquired
by the Vines, both in leaf and bunch, enables them to bear such
heavy crops. The wood of the Vines was brown and ripe to the ends
of the shoots when we saw them, and a portion of the leaves had been
picked off to allow the sunshine to get to the fruit to hasten its
maturity. After the fruit begins to turn, this practice is not considered
to be injurious in any way to the health of the Vines. The soil of the
Vineyards is a brown flinty-looking compost, and varies in depth from 18
inches to several feet, and the surface where the roots of the Vines are,
is mulched with decayed manure or litter. After the Grapes have been
thinned, early in the summer, the after-culture consists almost wholly
in training the shoots and pinching the laterals, the last being done by
women who nip the shoots off with their fingers. The espaliers and
bushes in the open quarters are not so particularly looked after appa-
rently, but on the walls the laterals appear to be pinched as fast as
they push, after the first stopping, little or no growth being permitted
beyond the fruit, the exigencies of space demanding that every shoot
be kept strictly within bounds. As to the quality of the Chesseles
de Fontainebleau Grapes, they are certainly superior to the same kind
grown under glass at home, being well coloured, sweet, and of good
flavour, very much superior to the foreign Grapes usually sold in this
country during the autumn and winter.

We may state in conclusion that we enjoyed our visit to Thomery
very much, and were well rewarded by what we saw, and we think no
gardener should leave Paris without visiting these famous Vineyards ;
it will at least be a new experience to him as it was to us, and in the
pleasant little Vine-clad village of Thomery, with its well-appointed
but old-fashioned French country inn and quaint church, and its gen-
eral surroundings, he will find much to interest him besides Grape-
growing. J- S. W.

CULTIVATION OF GARDENIAS.

"Without doubt the Gardenia as an evergreen stove-plant stands
very high in popular estimation, and is very highly prized by ladies
for the sweet fragrance its flowers possess, as much so as the Rose,
the Eucharis, and others — and more especially because it can be
brought into bloom in autumn, winter, and spring. Although its
flowers are only of short duration, they do not all open together,
which makes them the more useful, as a large plant will continue
to open blooms over a period of some weeks. With a number of

1879.] CULTIVATION OF GARDENIAS. 163

plants, and care and forethought exercised in preparing or retarding:
them, as the case may be, the blooming of Gardenias can be extended
over seven or eight months, provided a sufficient number of plants
can be cultivated, and the plants are prepared for the various seasons.
The natural blooming-time, if under ordinary stove treatment, will
be through March, April, and May. To produce them in early
autumn takes considerable time, more room, and a large number
of plants to work upon.

The Gardenia is subject to all kinds of insects which infest
plants, and if every attention is not paid to keep it thoroughly
clean, much trouble and annoyance are caused, and in the end,
instead of a crop of fine flowers, the cultivator reaps disappointment.
This is perhaps the reason why the Gardenia is not more largely
grown in some private places, especially where plant- houses are
badly infested with mealy - bug, scale, and other insects, which
seem at once to arrest the growth; and but little success can be
anticipated. When out of flower, well-grown plants in exuberant
growth are beautiful to look upon, on account of the dark glossy
foliage which is so characteristic of the plant when in good health.

The propagation of Gardenias can be effected at almost any
season of the year from cuttings. These are by no means difficult
to strike from the ripened wood. We, however, prefer striking
about August from half-ripened wood, as this leaves the whole of
the following year before us to start early in the season and grow the
plants as large as possible. The cuttings are best inserted singly in
small pots in a mixture of peat and sand, and plunged into bottom-
heat until rooted in the propagating house or frame. If practicable,
a little bottom-heat should be applied through the whole season up
to the end of August. This will make the plants grow more rapidly,
and produce nice bushes in 6-inch pots, if properly attended to in the
way of watering, potting, stopping, and shading for a few hours
during the hottest part of the day. In potting, the pots should be
carefully drained, and a little moss, or a portion of the roughest part
of the compost, laid over the crocks. The compost we find most
suitable after the young plants are rooted and require larger pots
is a rich fibry loam and peat, using a 6-inch potful of bone-dust to
every barrowful of soil, and a good dash of sharp silver-sand to
make the whole porous. The soil should be pressed firmly into the
pots. Keep the house or pit in which they are growing close until
they have taken to the new soil. The atmosphere should be moist,
and the plants well syringed overhead. If the plants are plunged,
and the soil in moderately moist condition at the time of potting,
the plants will not need watering, at least for a few days, which will

164 THE GARDENER. [April

give the fine roots of the Gardenia a chance of recovering from the
damage received in potting. However carefully this operation is
performed, it is next to impossible to do it without the roots receiv-
ing injury more or less ; and if watered, which is too frequently
done, the roots have not a fair chance of starting quickly into the
new soil.

Avoid the too common practice of using a sharp- pointed stick
to liberate the roots from the ball of the plants. In potting ever-
green stove - plants — especially such fine -rooted subjects as the
Gardenia — the crocks only should be carefully removed, and any
little loose soil from the top of the ball. The new soil should
be pressed firmly round the sides of the ball, so that water cannot
pass through it and leave the old ball dry ; the roots will enter
the new soil freely enough, provided this is carefully done. The
slaughtering system of using a sharp-pointed stick to set the roots
at liberty cannot be too strongly condemned, as we believe more
plants have to be conveyed to the rubbish-heap through this than any
other cause, especially fine-rooted plants such as Heaths, and this
caution applies with equal force to the Gardenia.

If the young plants are required to bloom the first season, they
should not be stopped after August, but allowed to extend their
shoots, and be grown from that time with a little more air. Under
these circumstances the young plants will soon complete their
growth, and form flower-buds, averaging from eight to ten blooms
to each plant, which will come out during March, or earlier if brought
on rapidly in a brisk heat after the buds are set. If the object
be to grow the plants into a good size as quickly as possible, they
should not be allowed to bloom, but be stopped later than the time
named to prevent cutting the young growths back, and again get
an early start the following year. If allowed to bloom, and two or
three months are lost at the commencement of the year, a much longer
time will be required to get the plants into a good size. It is best
to sacrifice the bloom the first season; and after the commencement
of the year, and root-growth has fairly commenced, they should be
transferred into 8 - inch pots, using the compost already recom-
mended, and be grown on rapidly under the same conditions as de-
scribed above. The plants will this season make rapid strides, and
be ready by the end of June or beginning of July to be transferred
into 10-inch pots, provided every attention recommended has been
carried out. They should be again kept close until they have taken
to the new soil. As soon as the roots are working freely into the new
compost, any shoots that require stopping should be attended to,
and then grown on rapidly under the influence of plenty of light and

1879] CULTIVATION OF GARDENIAS. 165

sufficient air to cause their growth to be short, and possess that sol-
idity which is requisite for a good set of flower-buds. A good set
is certain — such as will well repay the cultivator for the sacrifice of
the previous season's blooms.

This second potting in the year will not be necessary after the
plants have attained a fair size and in 10-inch pots. Unless the ob-
ject of the cultivator is to get them into a very large size as quickly
as possible, 10 and 12 inch pots are large enough for all ordinary
purposes. When transferred into the last-named size they can remain
in them for several seasons, if supplied with a little manure-water
while making their growth and swelling their flower-buds, at which
season we think the feeding most necessary. Nothing is better than
an occasional application of clear soot-water, which acts immediately
on the plants, and imparts a beautiful glossy colour to the foliage.
Plants can be kept in smaller pots under the same circumstances if
deemed necessary.

The time of potting varies according to the time the plants are
wanted to flower. Some cultivators prefer potting as soon as the
blooming is over. "We would recommend this operation to be carried
out as soon as they commence to set their flower-buds. At this time
they always unfold a quantity of leaves, and the roots are active and
soon take to the new soil. The plants, after blooming, are ready to
be cut well back, and will start at once into vigorous growth with-
out being again disturbed.

In training the plants, the foundation must be begun early by
bringing the shoots down to the rim of the pot, if nice round bushes
are required, which can afterwards be easily kept in shape by stop-
ping and regulating the shoots as they grow. When they have be-
come large plants, they can be cut into shape with the knife after
blooming. We cannot too strongly condemn the mode of tying and
twisting the shoots of the plants into the form of pyramids and other
shapes, looking as if they had been clipped into shape with a pair of
shears, instead of using the knife at the proper season. We allude
to this especially because the plants are so subject to all kinds of
insects, and the great difficulty experienced in keeping the plants
clean. If the growths are twisted and tied closely together, the
plants do not show off their flowers so well, nor are they so
natural-looking as if grown into nice round bushes, without either
tie or stick, after the foundation of the plants has been formed.

A system we have found useful for growing plants suitable for
small vases, &c, is to strike the cuttings in early spring in small pots,
and then pot into 4-inch pots when rooted, keeping the plants well
stopped and close to the glass on a shelf : by so doing the plants will

166 THE GARDENER. [April

be very dwarf and produce about four blooms each. Another system
we have adopted with success — viz., striking four or five cuttings in
a small, say 3-inch pot, as soon as growth is completed and it can
be seen which shoots are going to bloom. Care must be taken that
they do not again start into growth after taking root, until it is seen
that the flower-buds are swelling ; and then the growths, if they start
before the blooms expand, are better picked off.

Wm. Bare-net.
Norris Green.

PLANTING SHRUBS.

The planting of forest trees and shrubs, where such work has to be
done, will be continued to a late date this spring ; for while we write,
the frost and snow have only just gone, and it will require some days
of dry March winds to fit the soil for satisfactory working. The
month of April is, however, not by any means the worst period to re-
move and plant evergreen shrubs. We have just inspected a great
quantity of large Hollies and evergreens, which were transplanted
last June, and all have grown successfully. Most evergreens are
exotics, and many require the average temperature of the season to
rise considerably before their vitality is sufficiently aroused. April is
the month for Hollies and for Conifers of all sorts to be moved \ and
the time which suits these must, of necessity, not be bad for other
evergreens. We, in common with many more, have been obliged to
defer planting of all kinds ; and now, when the frost has gone, and
on looking over our stores of trees and shrubs, we find them in quite
a different condition from the fine, robust, healthy looks which they
wore on the 1st of November last. Very many, such as large old trees
of Sweet-bay and Arbutus, seem as if a hot blast had passed over
them, — many killed, and many more paralysed. IN [any have lost foliage
more or less: in fact, to note the various degrees of injury is simply to
register the degrees of resistance or hardiness of the various subjects.
Now, in the face of the general shock to the vitality of the shrubbery
stores — for all are more or less damaged and convalescent — we have
been obliged to modify our plans for planting very considerably.
We ask ourselves the question, Can we dare to move those Escallo-
nias which seem hesitating between life and death 1 can we move those
Deodaras whose bare twigs look more like those of the Larch, and are
evidently very much enfeebled 1 Even the green Hollies are throwing
down their foliage in showers. Would it be judicious to add the
additional shock of tearing them up by the roots and replanting
them % Laurustinus also, which is a very doubtful plant to remove

1879.] PLANTING SHRUBS. 167

alter frost, will look tolerably well for a long time, but ultimately die
off in patches. Planting must, however, be done to some extent ;
and we have already ventured on many Hollies from 20 feet high
and downwards \ but it must be expected that a large percentage of
deaths will ensue, let the work be ever so carefully done, simply on
account of the debilitating effect of the hard winter. March plant-
ing is hazardous at all times, from this as well as the above con-
siderations. It would be judicious where possible to postpone the
work until April, to give time to the shrubs to recover themselves.
Of course hardy deciduous trees and shrubs are an exception. On
them the winter has had no bad effect whatever. Striking proof of
this was discovered in cutting down a variety of trees and shrubs
while the frost was barely out of the ground, though the atmos-
pheric temperature was comparatively high. The sap literally
poured out of the prostrate trunks as well as the root stocks of Wal-
nuts, Chesnuts, Laburnums, Lilacs ; while the wood of large Holly
trunks, Portugal Laurels, evergreen Oaks, and such like, was quite
dry, and even withered in appearance. We do not recommend April
planting as a makeshift under existing circumstances. Some of the
most successful planting of large evergreen shrubs, both large-foliaged
and coniferous, we ever made, was done in April, and under excep-
tionally hot weather. The growth of everything was on the move ;
and although the distance was not inconsiderable, the time which
elapsed between lifting and planting was allowed to be as short as
possible. Copious watering was immediately given. Large-foliaged
plants flagged for a time, just as Cabbage plants would, or bedding
plants, under a hot sun in May, yet scarcely a death occurred except
in the case of some large Wellingtonias, and this was clearly attrib-
utable to deficient watering. There seems no reason why shrubs
should not be managed as bedding-stuff, planted and watered in the
same way and at the same time. Hollies make fresh roots with
amazing rapidity under a hot sun, with plenty water. The greater
the activity of life the greater the chance of success, and vice versa,
for Hollies are proverbially ticklish to transplant in midwinter.

The success or otherwise of all planting is influenced to an extent
seldom sufficiently appreciated, by the nature of the soil or the care
with which it has been prepared. A heavy soil, stiff and cold, newly
trenched or dug, or not dug at all, will in its conditions be scarcely
recognisable with the same soil if turned up months ago, and re-
duced and mellowed by the frost. Where such a soil has to be
dealt with, and where timely trenching has not been performed, it
is absolutely necessary that a friable mellow soil should be imported,
into which the roots of the plants must be laid, and with which they

N

168 THE GARDENER. [April

must be covered • and this is even more necessary under the present
condition of most shrubs. Eresh soil for planting all sorts of trees
and shrubs, as well as fruit-trees, should be of the simplest kind.
Plain maiden earth of a loose friable nature is much the best. Com-
posts of all sorts should be avoided in the planting of trees, especially
mixtures with leaf-mould and vegetable remains, however much the
temptation may be to its use from convenience or availability. The
compost heap has long been a favourite institution, and it has had
its day : it is still useful as a material for top-dressing, but as an
appliance immediately to the roots of trees composts are positively
dangerous. Deep planting must also be avoided : it kills many a
tree but stunts many more. Many skin-bound stunted trees planted
on good sites, and with an abundance of kindness, remain a puzzle
to the owner why they should refuse to grow, when failure is entirely
due to deep planting. An old practitioner and friend used to say,
Give them a good hold of the soil — it steadies them ; and he go^s on
to this day steadying them, and the growth in his plantations is
steady also. Deep planting saves labour in stakes ; and this appears
to be a consideration with many. When a good deep hole is made, and
the ball of the tree or shrub, or the roots without the ball, is lowered
some 6 inches below the surface, and the soil filled in and heaped
round, and finally trodden, our tree is in an excellent condition to
resist the loosening effect of the wind ; but here the benefit ends.
R >ots, like many more living organisms, have a dislike of being buried
alive. The question of staking is itself an important one, notwith-
standing its apparent simplicity. Tall plants often get literally sawn
through by the cord which ties them, or by chafing against the top
of the stake. A favourite plan, and one which has the advantage of
sightliness and cheapness, is to drive three pegs of any rough timber
into the soil, at more or less distance from the root of the tree
according to size, and from a band of straw or hay round the tree, at
a convenient height, tie three pieces of tar cord to the pegs. The
cord is cheaper than single stakes, and much more effective.

The Squire's Gardener.

MARIGOLDS.

One would fancy that of such old-fashioned common flowers as the
Trench and African Marigolds there would be very little to say.
1ST »r is there much. Only, as the scope of ' The Gardener ' is not
restricted with regard to the subjects discussed, and as I know that
a good strain of these well grown commands a good deal of attention

i879-] MARIGOLDS. 169

fr<» n the flower-loving portion of the community who visit gardens,
I have therefore thought that a note on their culture would not
be wholly out of place.

And first as to raising the plants : I sow about the middle of
April in a cold frame in which a bed of soil is prepared, and the
seeds are thrown broadcast over the surface thereof, and merely
pressed firmly in without further covering of soil. The sashes
are kept closed, and covered with mats until the seeds have ger-
minated. The mats are made use of thus to secure partial darkness
to the seeds, and also to preserve a uniform amount of moisture in
the soil without having to apply water. When the young seedlings
appear both light and air are freely admitted, and when weather
permits the sashes are entirely dispensed with. The seed is sown
very thinly, and the soil is of a light and rich nature ; so that, while
it is not necessary to prick out the seedlings before transplanting
them into their " blooming " quarters, the nature of the soil allows
for this being done without destroying the roots of the plants, and
consequently without their receiving a check from the operation.
When slugs abound, larger plants than these thus grown might be
found to do better, as slugs have a great liking to young Marigolds.
Sowing a little earlier and keeping the plants warmer would be
necessary in such cases, but otherwise small plants grown without
a check are most satisfactory. Growers for exhibition commonly
plant in beds. I find them do equally well either in lines amongst
other plants or planted singly in mixed borders. Whichever plan is
chosen, a rich well-cultivated soil is necessary to have them fine.
Each plant, if well grown and space allowed, will make a bush three
or four feet through towards the end of the season. It is well to
remember that allowing them plenty of space for growth secures
quite as many flowers as if, say, double the number were grown ;
whilst those plants having the most room for head-growth produce
the finest blooms. If the weather is dry when the plants are put
out, one good watering is given, some dry soil being thereafter drawn
over the surface as a check to evaporation. Small plants may also
have their roots drawn through a mixture of water and soil — mud,
in fact. This is found very beneficial in extra hot weather. Except
when first planted out, our plants are never watered. Where autumn
winds are destructive, it wiil be necessary to take the precaution of
securing the plants by one or more stakes, otherwise no supports
are required. The only other points to be attended to are the removal
of the flowers when " over," and securing a sufficient number of the
best flowers for seed. African Marigolds are further benefited by hav-
ing the flower-buds thinned out. The flowers cut for seed should be

170 THE GARDENER. [April

hung in small bundles in a dry warm room to ripen : this is a some-
what important matter, as good well-ripened seed is not always
to be got. These past few years seed has been very poor in ger-
minating quality. In selecting French Marigolds for exhibition,
blooms with distinct and even markings should only be cut ; depth
of petals ought also to be considered, as well as the width of the
flower. Any undeveloped florets in the centre of the flower should
be removed, as also those grown out of shape. African Marigolds
do not form such symmetrical blooms in cold weather as in warm :
warm positions should therefore be given these. Also in preparing
blooms for showing, their symmetry is improved by removing florets
out of harmony with the rest. The colours of these cannot be too
pure — the nearer to a dark orange or a clear lemon the better. From
a mere utilitarian point of view I find Marigolds very useful. The
French is used, in the case of self flowers, which are, some of them,
very rich and dark, others pure yellow, for mixing in vases. The
African is much used for church decoration in autumn ; these are
also very sweet-scented, a fact not very generally known. I also
grow a very good selection of the old double-pot Marigold. Being
quite hardy it receives no other culture than a good soil.

E. P. B.

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS.

Perhaps no class of decorative plants has been so much improved of
late years, and the cultivation of them so much increased, as that
forming the subject of these remarks. Tuberous Begonias are now
become quite indispensable in almost every place of any pretensions ;
and they certainly well deserve all the care and attention bestowed
upon them. They are so various in their shades, colours, and habits,
and generally so free-flowering, and continue flowering for such a
length of time, that as a decorative greenhouse plant they are un-
rivalled. They are easily grown, either from seed or by cuttings.
When a good strain of them is grown, it is desirable to save one's own
seed by crossing with approved kinds. They generally seed pretty
freely. The seed should be sown early in spring, in pots or pans
prepared with equal proportions of loam and leaf -mould, with a dash
of sand, finishing off with some finely-sifted soil for the seed-bed.
Sow the seed and press it gently into the soil with a piece of board,
or any thing else suitable : water through a fine rose, and cover with
a piece of glass until the seed begins to vegetate, when the glass
should be tilted up a little, so as to allow a little air to get in. The
pans must be set in a warm house.

1879.] TUBEROUS BEGONIAS. 171

When the seedlings are fit to handle, either pot them off singly, or
better still, prick out a few into 4- or 6-inch pots. This will not
necessitate such frequent waterings. Should they be potted singly
in small pots, they might be plunged in cutting-boxes among leaf-
mould or sawdust, which will keep them at a more uniform degree of
moisture. As it is desirable to have the bulbs as strong as possible,
they should not be allowed to stand still, but be kept growing on in
heat the first season, and regularly attended to with water — yet not
overdone, else they may damp off.

Now as regards wintering them. Many have experienced some
difficulty in keeping them over the winter ; and indeed we have more
than once known gardeners lose almost their entire stock during the
winter months, and we have suffered ourselves in the same way. The
usual way was to dry them off entirely, laying the pots on their side
in some out-of-the-way place, and keeping them dust-dry all winter.
Well, this is a mistake which we were also guilty of at one time,
but have now abandoned for what we consider the more rational
one, of keeping the bulbs fresh by a moderate supply of water
during the time they are at rest, and in a temperature of about
50°, and we now seldom lose any. They will begin to push away
at the proper time, or may be hastened by being introduced into a
warmer house and more liberally supplied with water. They may
be repotted or shifted into larger pots after they have made a few
inches of growth, using good fibry loam, a little peat, and enough
sand to keep it free and open. They require to be very carefully
watered for a time after shifting, especially if they have got a large
shift, else they may damp off. A layer of well-rotted dung may be
placed over the crocks, which the roots will revel in when they
reach it.

When a collection of named varieties is grown, and it is thought
desirable to increase them, this may be done by cuttings taken from
off the old plants as soon as they have made enough growth for that
purpose. In selecting the cuttings care should be taken to choose non-
flowering shoots, as those bearing flowers do not readily form bulbs ;
and though they thrive well enough during the summer, the chances
are that all will go off during winter. Cuttings may be put into
any convenient size of pot or pan, draining them carefully, and filling
to within an inch and a half of the rim with ordinary pottiDg soil,
and then fill up with sharp river or silver sand. Insert the cuttings,
water, cover with a bell-glass, and then plunge the pots where a brisk
bottom-heat is maintained ; they will root in two or three weeks,
when they may be potted off singly and treated as described above
for seedlings.

172 THE GARDENER. [April

Though Tuberous Begonias do well in a greenhouse after they
are fairly established, still in the earlier stages of their growth <ach
season they must have heat until they reach the flowering stage,
and even then they do best in a warm greenhouse or intermediate
house. They do not like cold draughts, therefore they should not be
placed where there is risk of this. In the south of England and in
parts of Ireland some of the kinds do fairly well planted out of doors.
It is to be feared, however, that we will never get a strain of them
sufficiently hardy to stand out in Scotland. Even in England and in
Ireland any plants that we have seen had a dwarfish, stunted habit of
growth, and were not at all to be compared to the general run of
Geraniums for effect in the flower-garden. J. G., W.

HARDY FRUITS.

It is seldom that any pruning or planting of fruit-trees is left till
April, but in some quarters such may be the case this season. Late
planting will require more than ordinary care, and if the weather is
dry, a good watering may be necessary : mulch carefully, and see that
the soil is not left loose about the roots. Stakes must be provided for
trees which are liable to be blown about by winds ; and when ties are
used, let the bark remain intact and free from bruises : old cloth or
leather should be placed between the bark and the tying material.
Apples and Pears may yet be pruned ; they do not suffer so readily as
some other fruits. In grafting one variety of fruit-tree on another of
same species, care should always be taken to let at least one side of
the bark of stock and scion fit closely : a careful tying to keep the
graft in its position is of much importance. We have grafted success-
fully till end of April, and this season, growth being late, wilt aid
the success of this operation. The sooner (if not already done) all
trees are tied in their positions the better : tie so that plenty of room
is left for the wood to expand and be safe from cutting by the ties.
Blossoms, though late, should be retarded as much as possible. Full
power of sun should be warded off : it is the extremes which do the
harm. Apricots may have set their fruit thickly, but thinning should
be done cautiously and not in a hurry. Much severe weather may yet
be experienced. Disbudding of Peaches, Plums, and Apricots may be
put in practice ; but sudden exposure is dangerous. The foliage is a
natural covering to the fruit, and should be removed with much caution.
All outgrowing shoots should be removed first : in a week or ten
days the trees may be gone over again. Misplaced shoots should be
removed, and where there are vacancies, wood should be left to fill them
up. Rank-growing shoots should be either removed to give place to
moderate ones, or be stopped to equalise the flow of sap. Let all spurs

iS79-] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 173

forming naturally remain, if there is room for them to develop them-
selves without crowding. When these are neatly managed and fitting
closely to the wall between the main branches, the trees have a nice
appearance, and give a minimum of labour compared with the old un-
certain system of nailing and unnailing. Figs should now be un-
covered and trained in their places : crowding of these is the great
evil generally met with ; indeed, skilfully managed Figs are the excep-
tion and not the rule. The branches on the walls should be clear of
each other, as Pears are treated, so that sun and air may act on the
wood to ripen it ; and when there is plenty of fruit, light and air are
very essential to get flavour. Strawberries may be planted on deeply
trenched and well-manured land : plenty of room may be allowed them,
especially the large-foliaged kinds, such as Keen's Seedling. When
Strawberries are forced, they may be taken care of for planting : when
well-hardened and planted in rich soil, they make fine fruiting plants
by next season. Currants and Gooseberries being planted (an opera-
tion we are likely to perform too late, the space not being ready)
should be well cut back, made firm, and well mulched.

In the Orchard-house watering must have careful attention : tepid
water (at least that which is as warm as the soil in the structure,
should be used. Look after insects: dust with tobacco - powder if
aphis should attack the trees while in flower, fumigate when the
fruit is set, air carefully in cold biting weather, and avoid extremes
as much as possible. Be careful not to use the syringe in unheated
structures late in the day when weather is cold. M. T.

THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN.

MELONS, CUCUMBERS, VEGETABLE MARROWS, AND TOMATOES.

Melons. — Many amateurs shrink from growing Melons because of fancied dif-
ficulties and warnings from friends who have failed. But where manure is
plentiful enough to afford such a hotbed as was described when treating of
Asparagus, and when there is an idle frame, there is no reason whatever why
amateurs should not produce 12 or even 20 lb. or more of fruit from an ordi-
nary frame, if only sufficient care be taken to give the plants the proper
conditions, and a free-fruiting hardy variety be grown. Being in possession of
a small, hardy, and certain fruiter, we are in the habit of furnishing plants
about the middle of May to friends who are invariably successful in growing
good crops of well-ripened Melons a little larger than one's closed hand. Its
name is " Little Golden Queen," as it is a selected variety of "Golden Queen.'
The first thing requiring attention is the raising of the plants. Some may be
fortunate enough to get a Melon-growing friend to do this for them, and, fail-
ing that, may put up a hotbed for the purpose about the second or third week
of April. If put up earlier, a difficulty may be experienced in keeping up a
proper temperature ; if later, the fruit will not ripen before September ; but if
done about the middle of April, the variety we name will ripen while the sun

174 THE GARDENER. [April

is strong, in the month of August. The temperature required is something
like 80° to 00° for bottom-heat : if it gets higher, make holes in the bed, and
pour in cold water to reduce the heat. But if prepared as advised, by frequent
turnings, and stable-dung and leaves be used in equal proportions, it is not
likely to become too hot. After the bed is built, put on the frame, close the
sash, and wait till the danger of the heat getting too high is past ; then sow
the seeds in good light loam, or in soil as near that description as possible, in
4|-inch pots filled three-quarters with soil — three seeds in a pot ; and having
covered the bed all over with earth, old tan, old manure, cocoa fibre, or saw-
dust, to the depth of 1 inch and 5 inches where the pots are to placed, plunge
the pots to the rims. Give no water if the soil be as it should be — moderately
moist. Keep the air temperature about 70° to 75°, and admit air on every fav-
ourable opportunity ; indeed, never close the light altogether. Should the
weather prove severe, cover the frame with mats at night, lettiDg the mat
drop over the opening at top, to prevent currents of wind entering the frame ;
while excessive moisture will readily escape through the mat. Accumulated
moisture is often a fatal evil. Although the night temperature sinks to 60°, or
even a degree or two below it at night, no harm will happen provided that the
day temperature is at least 70°. In a dung-frame little water will be required -r
but do not let the plants suffer from drought, and let the water be as warm as
the bottom-heat. "When the plants have grown above the pot, fill the pot with
soil to within a quarter of an inch of the top — the same as that recommended
for sowing them in — taking care to have it warm by putting it into the frame
the day previous. When the pots are fairly filled with roots, shift them into
6-inch pots, using the same soil. Always use the soil comfortably moist, but
not sticky, to obviate the necessity of giving water until the roots make a
fresh start. Meanwhile be getting materials ready for a second bed, in which
to fruit the plants.

If all goes well, they will be ready for transplanting by the time they are from
four to six weeks old. When the plants have made two rough leaves, rub
out the centre bud, which will cause the plants to throw out three or four side
shoots ; these reduce to two. When the plants are just pushing these, then
is, the time to plant in the permanent bed. The best soil is a rather tenacious
loam from an old pasture, which should be three months in store, and mixed with
about a sixth part of horse-droppings if it be heavy, and cow-droppings if light,
and a good watering of cow-urine. If good loam cannot be procured, common
garden soil will do, and the nearer it approaches maiden loam the better — the
worst soil for Melons being black kitchen-garden mould. Avoid rank manure
and leaf-mould. Spread 2 inches of the soil all over the bed. Put a little
mound in the centre about a foot deep, and 9 inches from the glass. Put two
plants in the centre if of Little Golden Queen ; but one will do of such kinds as
Little Heath, which is a hardy amateur's Melon. When they start into growth,
train a shoot of each in the direction of each of the corners of the frame. Add
more soil to the mound as the roots come through it, eventually covering the
whole bed ; and when shoots reach within a foot of the corners, nip off their
points. By this time lateral shoots will be coming from the axil of every leaf,,
which will show fruit at the first joint. In " Little Golden Queen," two and
even three fruits at a joint is a common occurrence. Train these laterals at
right angles to the main stem, and stop them, one joint beyond the fruit, and
ever afterwards keep all young growths rubbed off. Thin the shoots rather
than allow them to be crowded.

Should the weather prove bright and sunny, plenty of air will require to be

1879.] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 175

given daily; and the frame should be closed in time to shut up sun-heat. In
dull weather the temperature should not be lower than 70°, and with bright
sun will be all the better if it run as high as 90°. Just before coming into
flower, give a thorough soaking of liquid-manure, made of urine diluted with
five times its bulk of pure water, and of the temperature of 80° or 90° ;
and, again, after the fruit is set, taking care that the soil is never allowed
to become dry. "When in flower, impregnate them. The way to do it is to
take a male blossom by the stalk in the right hand, and with the left re-
move the flower proper, leaving the male organ untouched, and giving a
gentle brush on the nail of the left-hand thumb, when, if traces of a yellow
powder remain, it is in " condition " for giving the stigmas, in the centre of
the female flower, a slight brush to cover them with the powder. The best
time to impregnate is when the sun is shining about mid-day.

Should red-spider or thrips appear, attack them at the very first with a
sponge and soap -water. The red -spider is likely to trouble them in hot
seasons, and is so small as to be almost invisible. Syringings overhead will
do much to prevent its appearance and to hold it in check ; but if taken at
once with a sponge and water it will not do much harm. If allowed its own
way it will certainly destroy the plants. As the fruit approaches maturity,
in cloudy districts or seasons, water should be withheld until the soil is rather
dry, which will assist in giving a finer flavour than would be secured were
the soil kept wet ; but keep the foliage from flagging by excessive drought.
In hot seasons, and in the sunny South, water will be required liberally to
prevent the leaves flagging; and with strong sun, of course, the fruit is finer.

Cucumbers. — These are much more easily grown than Melons, and any ordi-
nary soil will suit, if it be rich, or made so by the addition of well-decayed
manure. Less bottom-heat will do, although a bed the same as has been
recommended for Melons is more likely to give satisfaction — more especially
in cold or northern districts. In favourable localities in England, great
breadths of the hardy " ridge " varieties are grown in the open air in the way
we shall recommend for Vegetable Marrows. In such districts the finer
varieties are grown with very little bottom-heat indeed during the summer
months ; but the great majority of growers are compelled to provide bottom -
heat if satisfactory results are to be reasonably expected. Except in the
matter of soil and training, the whole directions given for Melons will also
suit the Cucumber. The training is a little different, and a greater amount of
atmospheric humidity is advisable. Instead of training out a certain number
of main growths to produce a sufficiency of fruit-bearing laterals simultane-
ously, as is necessary in the case of the Melon, the aim in Cucumber-grow-
ing is to provide for a successional supply from the same plants during the
whole season. For this purpose, plant either one or two plants in the middle
of each frame, and lead away two or three shoots to the back and front of the
frame. One-half of these shoots may be allowed to run on a bit, and the other
half stopped at every joint at which fruits are produced. The unstopped
shoots that have extended may be treated the same way, and then be quite
removed after those early stopped growths have come up on them — always
keeping the shoots thin, and not allowing the plants to bear too much at once.
Keep the soil steadily moist ; and should there be any signs of weak growth,
through poverty or overbearing, give soakings of the liquid manure. The
same insects that infest the Melon are also troublesome in the case of the
Cucumber ; but when raised on hotbeds, and not in hothouses among other
plants, and when grown vigorously on a hotbed with plenty of moisture, they

176 THE GARDENER. [April

are seldom troubled with insects. The best varieties for the amateur are
Volunteer, Telegraph, and Munroe's Duke of Edinburgh; but everybody has
a certain favourite of his own. The more recently introduced varieties may be
better for exhibition, but those named are most prolific.

Vegetable Marrows. — There are not many districts south of the Grampians
where crops of these may not be secured, if the young plants are nursed a little
after being planted. They may be sown in the same manner as Melons, and
placed in the same frame, although the heat will be rather too much for them,
and will cause them to be drawn. But as the amateur is not supposed to have
a choice of structures for different plants, he is often compelled to make com-
promises ; and as a greenhouse has just the opposite fault of being too cold,
they can be raised with the young Melons, and would place them more directly
in the way of the ventilation, and near the glass ; and with care there is little
fear of their being injuriously "drawn." An intermediate temperature is more
suitable. In the majority of instances it will be advisable to have a little
fermenting material ready by the time the plants are ready to put out. There
is no need for much trouble in the preparation of it. A pit should be thrown
out, in some warm sheltered corner in the full sun, to the depth of U foot-
A pit 6 feet by 4 feet is sufficiently large to grow three plants, supposing there
be a good space all round to allow of their extending. Fill the pit with fresh
manure, and cover over with some light rich earth. Choose warm weather for
planting — from the middle of May to the middle of June. Xurse the plants
with hand-lights ; and when they outgrow them, peg the shoots regularly over
the bed to prevent them being blown about and broken. Such a bed ought
to give a good barrow-load of fruit. For a Vegetable, Hibberd's Prolific, or
Moore's Vegetable Cream, are the best we have tried.

T wiatoes. — Sow the seeds thinly in 6-inch pots in light soil. Cover lightly,
and when of sufficient size, prick out into small pots, and shift into 6-inch ones
by the time the small ones are rilled with roots. In cold districts they give
much better results if grown altogether under glass on the back walls of
vineries, greenhouses, or some similar situation where they will get sun and
air. In warm favoured districts, blank spaces on walls facing the sun will do
very well ; but it is only in very favourable places where they do well in the
open quarters. We have found that when planted against walls, if the soil
be poorish and wholly above the ground-level, and kept in its place with bricks
or boards, with broken stones for drainage, they are very materially for-
warded. Indeed, the lirst time we tried the plan, with one-half our plants,
those so treated yielded a large amount of fruit by the beginning of August ;
while those planted in the ordinary way were green at the beginning of Octo-
ber. They require severe pinching. Always pinch off the shoot beyond the
bunch; otherwise it will neither set nor swell its fruit well. The shoot which
springs from below the bunch can be trained out to furnish another bunch,
and so on. In no case, unless in pots under glass, use rich soil. The Conqueror
is excellent, but Orangerield dwarf is good, and so is Hathaway's Excelsior.

A Gardener.

-<S~*-e. —

1879.] BEDDING-PLANTS. 177

BEDDING -PLANTS.

Tender bedding -plants, as Verbenas and Ageratums, do better
propagated during the present month than those propagated earlier
in the year. Accordingly, as many as possible of these and kindred
subjects ought to be struck this month. A properly managed
three or four light frame, set on a hotbed of dung and leaves, makes
a capital place for propagating purposes at this season. A portion
of the surface of the hotbed may be covered with a layer of light
material and cuttings dibbled into it as soon as the heat is at a safe
point. When the cuttings are sufficiently rooted they are boxed off,
a little fresh material added to the surface of the bed, and another
batch of cuttings introduced. I always obtain my best plants
propagated thus. The greater number of the Dahlias required
should also be propagated this month, as these can be grown on to
strong plants without in any way being drawn or becoming pot-
bound. Seeds of quick-growing plants, as the Castor-oil family
and variegated Maize, should now be sown. Where there is a
chance of their not getting proper treatment through overcrowding,
the sowing may be deferred still later. Should seed of the " Golden
Feather " Pyrethrum be not already sown, no time should now be
lost in doing so. I merely sow it thinly in boxes, and when large
enough prick out the seedlings directly into their summer quarters.
Tagetes signata pumila, ten week Stocks, Asters, Marigolds, and
Phlox Drummondii do well sown now in cold pits or frames, trans-
planting the seedlings when large enough from thence into their
permanent places. The following hardy annuals, sown this montb,
will come into flower throughout the summer, and be very showy
till late in autumn. A hundred per cent more seeds need not be
sown than plants required; and, when large enough to thin, givr
each plant as much space as other bedding - plants. Delphiniun-
cardiopetalum ; Limnanthus Douglasii; Linum grandinorum rub-
rum ; Lupinus Cruickshankii ; Lupinus nanus albus • Nemophil *
insignis; Gilia tricolor ; Koniga maritima ; Leptosiphon densinorum
albus; Specularia speculum; Yiscaria oculata. These are all good.
All hardy or nearly hardy subjects should be got into their places
without delay. Owing to the severe winter, work in most depar-
ments will be still in a backward state, but no time should now b«
lost in getting all kinds of hardy plants divided and replanter.
Violas, if not already planted out, should be immediately taken in
hand. These require most liberal treatment, and a dressing of cow-
dung should be dug into the spaces these are to occupy. Calceolarias
may also be planted now. Of course these will have been growing

178 THE GARDENER. [April

in the open for some time back. Where they have been coddled in
frames with lights over them, they -will require care after being
planted out. as a sharp frost under these conditions would tell
severely. And just a word as to "hardening off" tender bed-
ding-plants. Where these have been grown in a moist, close
atmosphere, it sometimes happens that when turned out to be
"hardened off" they are positively withered up with the change,
and the summer is far spent before the plants get over the effects
of this treatment. It were much better to mat up hardening frames
for several days, and, if possible, uncover in showery weather, than
to have their life juices abstracted under the too sudden change.
Plants grown under an airy regime do not suffer from such changes
with ordinary care ; but very many bedding-plants are not grown
under such a condition. Old stock of Phloxes and Delphiniums,
which will be now producing a too numerous array of shoots, should
have the most of these taken oft", leaving from three to six of the
strongest to flower. Tritomas should be divided at this season ;
moderate-sized clumps make far better decorative subjects than those
which have occupied the same positions for a great number of years.
Alterations in the shape of beds, or other work requiring removal
of turf, should be finished without delay. Such work may still be
done with safety, provided a small breadth of turf is lifted at one
time and relaid without delay. Edgings of walks should be
trimmed as soon as the grass has been mown the first time for the
season. The walks should be diligently hoed at this time, as by so
doing much hoeing will be prevented during the summer season.

R. P. Brotherstox.

YOUNG FRUIT-TREES.

I was much pleased with some remarks that have appeared of late
in ' The Gardener ' on our supply and selection of fruit. Eor who
would not like to see fruitful trees and a well filled fruit-room ?
Some years ago we got a lot of select free-bearing varieties from the
nursery. They were clean and healthy; their roots were rather strong
and naked. They were nursed for a few years in one of the quarters
in the garden before planting out, because we considered it was the
cheapest way of assisting the roots, our wish being to have a good
supply of roots up to the surface before planting permanently. There
were two lines of them, 4 feet apart, alongside the alley. The
quarter was newly trenched, and the part they were to occupy was
reduced a little, and a strong stake put in for each tree ; 3 inches of

-

er 1

turf i

Tte I re made fast to the staki s bow-

;
the t: began! were then well

luring Jmi . . . . _. . .

j

in]

bfa sow-manure : : :_^ i and b

bd we 1 mn ti xL to the surface oJ

the very molchi s

mad- - . _ fruit

Wc the

vhethei the; ._ i .. m sd few

immer, and top-dressed in autumn.
We have heard much about lifting and root-pruni:. g me are
succe^-: ;.'.. whS

with the:: '. : the sari x may be lifted

at any time with perf e : - be rk

mulching in the spring ind top- g ".unm to be : the

greate-: value for all kinds .:

::

ORXAMEINTAL TREES ATTD SHRUBS.

:3E FEBIWIHKLE .

ecies belonging to this
are hardy enough for open-air cultivation in this country. These
are evergreens with a trailing habit of growth, indige^
what wide area on the Continent, and pr: so tc Eritain.

where, if not really native, they are found in some dii
siderable abundance, growing, as one writer remarks, ';in he
and banks, in woods, but too often near pleasure-grounds." They
were formerly known under the popular name ot

and one or other of the species is alluded to by the old English poet
er so early as the fourteenth century : —

" There sprang the \ new,

And fresh perrinke rich of h
And flowers yellow, white, and rede,
. h plenty grew there never in m t

180 THE GARDENER. [April

Ir, is scarcely necessary to say that both species, with their varieties,
are perfectly hardy, and that they grow freely in almost every
variety of soil. Few of the low-growing evergreens are more valu-
able for covering bare ground under the shade or drip of trees ; while,
if not quite so luxuriant, they succeed very well on rough banks or
rockeries with sunny exposures, which they soon clothe and render
attractive with their abundant bright foliage and beautiful flowers.
They are sometimes used for vases and hanging-baskets both in the
open air and in the conservatory — a purpose for which, from their
long, graceful stems, all the sorts are peculiarly adapted.

V. minor (the Lesser Periwinkle). — The long wiry stems of this
species trail along the ground, and when in contact with soil strike
root at almost every joint. The leaves are oblong lanceolate, and
of a dark shiny-green tint. The flowers are light blue, usually pro-
duced in succession from March till September, though in mild
seasons, when growing in sunn}' aspects, they are sometimes seen
iu midwinter.

Yar. alba. — This variety differs only from the species in having
pure-white flowers.

Yar. flori-pleno. — Flowers double, bright blue; an exceedingly
pretty and free-flowering variety.

Yar. argentea. — The leaves of this plant are freely variegated with
pure white.

Yar. aurea — with leaves variegated with bright gold. Both this
and the preceding are very ornamental, and might be utilised with
advantage in carpet-bedding and margins of flower borders.

V. major (the Greater Periwinkle). — This species is much larger
in all its parts than the other. The stems being thicker, are sub-
erect, rising sometimes 2 feet, after which the tops droop to the
ground, giving the plant when standing alone the appearance of a
dwarf, bushy-headed shrub. The leaves, which are fully twice the
size of ''minor," are ovate-cordate, minutely ciliated, and bright
glossy green. The flowers vary in shades of blue and purple ; they
<•- >me out in succession from March till September, though they
sometimes appear in midwinter.

Yar. elegantissima. — A variety with fine golden variegated leaves.
A superb plant, well worthy of a prominent place in any flower-
garden or shrubbery border.

Yar. aurea reticulata. — Another beautiful plant, with its leaves
p-ominently netted with bright gold.

Yar. argentea. — Leaves variegated with white.

Hugh Fraser.

I879-] PEACHES DROPPING PREMATURELY. 181

PEACHES DROPPING PREMATURELY.

Gardeners as a rule are very greedy — at least they get this name
— and for my part I think I am no exception, although, in common
with the most of my brother-gardeners, my greed puts nothing extra
into my pocket. It often adds to my discomfiture. When large crops
are taken successively, the trees in time are bound to succumb ; and the
employer is more than likely to forget all about the successes of the
past, and think very little of them on account of the subsequent disap-
pointment. The cause of Peaches dropping prematurely is, I believe,
common to most fruits. The well -covered Pear-tree has its first,
second, and third qualities of fruits on it : because it is not able to sup-
port all sufficiently, some take the lead and keep it. Apples are the
same. I have seen trees with two or three dozens on them, all splendid
plump fruit ; while, on the other hand, I have seen them in other years
having an abundant crop, with more than the half being inferior — the
best not at all good specimens. In fact, there is just a certain work a
fruit-tree can do, to do it right ; but if we force it beyond that work, it
must end in failure and disappointment. In the case of hardy fruits,
we can do without large crops every season — indeed, we do not feel it
much if they should miss altogether ; but not so with fruits under glass.
The Peach, like the Vine, has great bearing capacities, and if well treated
will repay all trouble ; but " well treated " means much.

I have a small Peach-house which I have forced every year, the
trees in which have not failed to produce a good crop for eight years
in succession. The fruits that remained on to maturity were always
excellent in quality and size. I fancy I cropped a little beyond the
capabilities of the trees, and consequently some dropped off prema-
turely. Some of your readers will smile and say, " Thin more in
future, and less will drop prematurely." This is all true, I doubt not.
But I like a numerous crop, and so does my employer.

I was very much interested lately by reading in ' The Gardener ; an
account of an experiment with Melons — growing them almost with-
out soil, by giving them the ingredients which form their con-
stituent parts. I have been thinking since, if the same rule could
be adopted with Peaches, it would no doubt prove very satisfactory.
It is evident that any fruit-tree year after year growing in the same
soil will in course of time deprive the soil wholly of whatever con-
stituent the tree most requires. The Peach, for instance, would require
an inorganic soil, on account of the many large stones it has to make.
There is much written about suitable soil for different kinds of , fruit- trees
and plants. The secret must be, and is, that certain soils contain the
elements required by certain trees and plants. So if these elements
could be supplied in a consolidated form to fruit-trees, according to
their wants, the result no doubt would be most satisfactory. Each
season I feed my Peaches well with tank liquid-manure and guano,

182 THE GARDENER. [April

and no doubt this accounts for my success in having good crops each
season. But as I said at first, many of the fruits I leave for a crop
drop prematurely. They are to all appearance ripe and good, being
soft but sour, and about a third less than those that ripen ten or
twelve days later. It is to meet this that I would suggest that food
in a consolidated form might be supplied ; for it is clear, when the
trees can carry all the fruits through all their stages, and maintain
their health and vigour, that if they got the proper assistance at the
ripening point, the result would be a great success. I hope to hear
from some of your scientific readers what chemical preparation I can
procure to produce, not an extra large crop, but a fair one, all in
perfection. Paddy in Ulster.

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

In 'The Gardener' of last month we have an interesting paper from
Mr Hammond on heating by hot water. All who have to do with
deep, and in too many cases imperfectly drained, stokeholes will agree
with the writer as to the desirability of doing away with those evils.
A small boiler may easily be fitted up to heat a single house without
taking out a deep stokehole ; but when pipes have to be extended to
various houses there are very few instances indeed wrhere the heating
could be accomplished without some obstacle in the shape of footpaths,
&c, coming in the way. After referring to the almost universal cus-
tom of giving flow-pipes a continuous ascent from the boiler to their
extremity, and the practice of setting boilers below the level of the
return-pipe, Mr Hammond says : " Notwithstanding, we do not hesi-
tate to say that the circulation of the water in the pipes will be as
rapid with the bottom of the boiler one foot below the level of the
return-pipes as it would be supposing the boiler was sunk several
feet deeper." "With, all due respect for Mr Hammond's opinion, I
am not quite prepared to accept this statement. Some time ago
I had to see to the fitting of a boiler for the heating of a house
at some considerable distance off; and from the nature of the
ground, and to avoid excavating deeper than was absolutely re-
quired, the boiler was fixed at a level which made it necessary to
give the flow-pipe rather less than the usual rise. Otherwise there was
nothing different in the fitting from what is the usual mode. The
circulation in this boiler, when set to work, was very unsatisfactory,
and when hard fired kept blowing out at the air-pipes at their high-
est point. To keep the boiler from wasting its energy in this
direction I cut the air-pipe and stopped it with a small cork, and
when this was done there was a marked improvement in the circula-

1879.] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 183

tion. My opinion at the time was, that the water in the return-pipes
did not move back to the boiler as fast as the heating power of the
boiler required ; and the consequence was that the water in the
boiler boils, or becomes so disturbed as to cause the water to fly out at
the air-pipe. Some will be ready to say that this blowing at the air-
pipes takes place just the same in many instances where the pipes
are high above the boiler. This I admit, but think it is waste of
coals to have this go on, and further, that when a boiler is fed by a
ball-cock in the supply-cistern, or carefully attended to, air-cocks are
far better than the usual air-pipes.

Mr Hammond and most gardeners know that when two or more
houses on different levels have to be heated from the same boiler, the
most heat always goes to the highest house, if there is no check put
on the circulation by means of valves. If two houses are fitted with
the same quantity of pipes, but the one higher than the other, and if
the one that is highest maintains the highest temperature, is it not
fair evidence of a quicker circulation of water in those pipes than in
those on the lower level?. The chief reason of this, I consider, is
because of the additional weight of water coming from the return-pipe
in the higher house over that coming from the lower house, and, in
consequence, its ijoiver to draw the hot inciter from the toiler in its
wake. The heating of the water and its consequent expansion and
lightness are the first motive power ; but I am disposed to attribute
the force of circulation more to the weight of cold water returning
to the boiler, and acting on the warm water in the boiler as a syphon
would do on a cistern of water. If you wish to empty a cistern of
water by means of a syphon, the length of time required to do so
will be much shortened by having the end of your syphon a good way
below the level of the cistern. And so, I think, it is with the circu-
lation in our boilers, — the greater the difference between the highest
point of the pipe and the bottom of your boiler, the quicker will the
circulation be. The water in a boiler at work being much lighter
than that in the return-pipes, and assisted by the agitation and ex-
pansion conveyed to it by the heat of the fire, circulation will take
place if the return-pipe is simply fixed immediately below the flow ;
but it would be slow. Mr Hammond, I think, makes too much of
the inclination of the water to form a return-current in the fiow-
pipes, and too little of the fact that the water in the return-pipes is
very much heavier — that this heavy column of water is putting, as it
were, a lighter one, and at the same time is pushing it from below.
Whether the rise in the pipes is made by a slow gradient or by
a vertical rise, I think, will not make material difference to the
circulation ; but every foot that they are thus elevated above the

0

184 THE GARDENER. [April

boiler gives, in my humble opinion, greater force to the circulation of
the water.

I, like Mr Hammond, would not discuss the merits of the various
boilers, each of which is supposed to be the best by its supporters. I
have had experience of a few ; and I must say that when properly
fixed, kept regularly cleaned, and otherwise judiciously managed, all
have worked well.

I however venture to say, that a boiler that is fitted inside for the
regular How of the water in divisions from the lower to the higher
parts, so that the water has to traverse the whole of the boiler before
getting out by the flow, will have an advantage over those that are
not thus divided. R. Inglis.

In your last month's impression I noticed an article on the above
subject, condemning the present system of fitting up hot-water ap-
paratuses for heating plant-houses, which contains various statements
the accuracy of which I question. Your correspondent, after allud-
ing to the difference of opinion regarding the best pattern of boiler
for economising fuel, goes on to say " that the circulation of the
water in pipes will be as rapid with the bottom of the boiler one foot
below the level of the return, as it would be were it several feet
deeper : and instead of a continuous ascent of the flow-pipes being
necessary it retards circulation." He then gives his reason why water
circulates under any condition, and asserts as the basis of his theory
that the particles of water are incapable of transmitting heat to each
other. I would ask your correspondent, if the particles of water are
unable to transmit heat, how does hot water impart its heat to cold
wTater when, if there is an equal weight of each put into a vessel, the
temperature will become the mean between the two? Perhaps your
correspondent may answer that it is caused by the hot getting so
minutely mixed with the cold particles that it equalises the whole,
which is true to a certain extent. But if hot water is incapable of
conducting heat, how does it come to pass that hot water poured upon
ice imparts its heat to it, the ice being then a solid ? It cannot be
caused by circulation or the mixing of the particles with that of the
ice, and the ice has come in contact with no heated body but the
heated particles of water. But the fact is, water transmits heat to
water in the same degree as it does to any other substance or body.
Again, he says that if particles of water were capable of transmitting
heat in the same way as that of solids, it would be impossible through

1879] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 185

the application of heat to cause circulation in the pipes. I venture to
say that it would make no difference whatever ■ the expansive pro-
perties of the water would remain the same. All bodies expand by
heit, and if it were possible to apply sufficient heat to liquefy bodies,
circulation would take place in the same manner. It is by motion
in the ultimate particles of matter in either case, whether solids or
liquids, by which heat is transmitted. Heat creates motion, and
motion creates heat. The difference is, that in solids heat is trans-
mitted by conduction only, but in liquids by both convection and con-
duction.

Then your correspondent endeavours to show why the rise in the
flow hinders circulation. He says the reason for this is plain : as
s >on as the fire acts upon the boiler, the water in contact with its
inner surface bounds upward till it comes in contact with the inner
surface of the upper side of the pipe, where it parts with a portion of
its heat, and would now return, were it not still lighter than the body
of water at the bottom of the pipe which it has just passed unaffected;
therefore it has to continue its course on the top of the cold water
until it is reduced to the same temperature, when it returns from
whence it came by an opposite cold current at the bottom of the pipe
to the boiler, and descends through the hot water and takes its seat
at the bottom to be heated over again. He therefore asserts that we
have two currents of different degrees of temperature moving in op-
posite directions in the same pipe. If your correspondent's theory
is correct, we would have no use for a return-pipe at all — a flow
would be sufficient. Bat such is not the case : the water in the
bailer on being heated expands, consequently it then becomes lighter
than the water in the pipes, hence its tendency to rise. And as the
water from the flow which proceeds from the top of the boiler cannot
descend without mixing and equalising the temperature of both,
therefore the water from the return which is situated at the bottom
of the boiler rushes in and gets heated likewise, and continues to
expand and ascend the flow-pipe, equalising and forcing the cold
water before it. And that part of the structure which is situated
farthest from the boiler will be the hottest, the pipes being at the
highest elevation ; which goes far to prove that a continuous rise in
the pipes does not hinder circulation, but the reverse.

C. M.

[It is quite evident that this is a subject that requires to be discussed.
—Ed.]

186 THE GARDENER. [April

RAISING VINES FROM EYES ON TURVES.

I should not have alluded to this subject had your correspondent,
Mr Hinds, not mentioned names in describing the system of raising
Vines from eyes on turves, which he has adopted and found so suc-
cessful. I have just to say, that the plan recommended by Mr Hinds
is that which was first practised and recommended by me ; and his
instructions in the matter of details are essentially the same as those
furnished by me in ' The Garden ' some years ago, where Mr Hinds
no doubt gained his information partly, for he has had other and
exceptional opportunities of becoming acquainted with my sod-system
of striking Vine eyes. It is difficult indeed to believe that Mr
Hinds was not conscious that it was my plan he described when he
wrote, more especially as Mr Thomson's system and mine have been
frequently commented upon in nearly all the horticultural papers.

JSTo one would imagine, in fact, from Mr Hinds' statements in ' The
Gardener,' that he had the least acquaintance with Mr Thomson's
system, which, as Mr Thomson himself stated in 'The Gardeners'
Chronicle ' years ago, has " nothing in common " with, mine, except
that we both used turf — the ultimate object of the two systems being
quite different, and the mode of raising the eyes also. The plan re-
commended by Mr Hinds is one adopted here with nearly every
Vine we have raised since 1864. Mr Thomson's system he will find
in the back volumes of 'The Gardener' and 'Journal of Horticulture.'

J. Simpson.

WORTLEY.

TESTING THERMOMETERS.

The London gardening weeklies, during the late severe winter, seldom issued
a copy without containing some warning, complaint, or instruction in regard
to Thermometers. The low readings recorded in some of the ordinarily favoured
counties were received with reservation, and the untrustworthiness of instru-
ments was accredited with the extreme temperature indicated. Thermometers
may be corrected as follows : —

The common and misleading idea that " freezing-point," as marked on the
scale of the Thermometer, is the point at which water freezes is an error.
Under different circumstances, which it is not our present purpose to explain,
water freezes at different temperatures below what Thermometer - makers
understand as "freezing-point," of course, or exactly at it. But while the
air may sink below freezing-point before water freezes, the person who watches
the first indication of ice to know whether his Thermometer be correct or not,
may be led into error ; and the air in contact with grass may be freezing, while
3 feet from the ground it may be a good many degrees higher. Evidently,
then, the freezing-point cannot be found this way, although many persons are
astonished at the supposed vagaries of Thermometers. But ice melts invariably

1879.] GROWTH OF YOUNG FOREST-TREES. 187

exactly at one point, and no variation occurs in the phenomenon, and the
"freezing-point" of the Thermometer-makers is just the point at which ice
melts. We corrected four Thermometers lately in this way. "We took a pail
with a hole in the bottom, which allowed melting water to escape, and drained
it like a pot (a large pot would do) with lumps of ice, which was exposed to the
air of a warm house a few minutes to start it a-thawing. Over these we put
more ice, pounded small, and buried the Thermometers in the centre — leaving
the pail and its contents where the temperature was over 60° for a couple
of hours, and then uniced the Thermometers. Before this they were placed
side by side, and all indicating somewhat different temperatures. There
was only one "cheap" one amongst the lot — the rest were marked "war-
ranted." On picking them out, No. 1 proved two degrees too low ; No. 2
proved three degrees too high ; No. 3 was ten degrees too high ; and the
"cheap" unwarranted was correct — at freezing-point. Whether they be
correct at any other point could only be tested alongside of one with a scale
reaching to boiling-point (at the level of the sea — elevation makes a difference),
and by this means proved correct ; but, unfortunately, we did not at that
time possess one with so extended a scale.

One point more demands attention. Sometimes a portion of the spirit — in
spirit instruments — gets detached, and some difficulty is experienced in getting
the portion to reunite. Some people recommend waving the instrument smartly
at arm's length to secure this. An easier, a better, and a much more scientific
way, is simply to plunge it into water of the same temperature as there are
degrees in the scale of the instrument. This causes the spirit to fill the tube,
when a sudden plunge into cold water will prevent its swelling more, and then
it will be found that the column of spirit will recede in a body. A. H.

RAPID GROWTH OF YOUNG FOREST-TREES.

There is a young wood which forms the north boundary of the flower-
garden here planted about eight years ago with various varieties of
trees, the growth of some of which have been so rapid, that it may be
worth recording, for the benefit of your readers. The place is open to
the north, but sheltered in every other direction, and the soil is a
yellow loam resting on a sandstone bottom. A Wellingtonia gigantea
has attained a height of 20 ft. 9 in. ; another, 20 ft. 3 in. ; and a third,
19 ft. 9 in. Several Larch-trees have reached a height of 26 ft. ; a Balsam
Poplar, 25 ft. ; a Lombardy Poplar, 34 ft. 6 in. ; Spruce, 26 ft. ; Scotch Fir,
18 ft. 6 in.; a Cupressus macrocarpa, 25 ft. ; Cedrus deodara, 15 ft. ; a
Cryptomeria japonica, 16 ft., and another, 13 ft. 6 in., — and various
others of sizes nearly approaching to the above. The plants were all
about from 2 to nearly 3 feet high when planted.

While on this subject, I may mention an old Yew-tree which is here,
and under which tradition says that the barons met in conclave to
concoct the plot which ended in the blowing up of the Kirk-of-
Field and the murder of Darnley, the unfortunate consort of Mary,
Queen of Scots. The outside circumference of branches is close on

188 THE GARDENER. [April

100 yards. The branches radiate from the main trunk at about a
height of 10 ft., and sweep down till they rest on the ground all
round, leaving a clear open space underneath of 32 ft. diameter ; cir-
cumference of trunk at 3 ft. from the ground is 1 0 ft. 7 in. ; and the height
of the tree is about 42 ft. It is not quite in such vigorous health as
it was about twelve years ago. There is a tree of the Eucalyptus
viminalis here also, which was about 30 ft. high in 1860, when it was
almost killed with severe frost. It was cut over at 9 ft. from the
ground, and sprung away again. It is now over 50 ft. high ; main
trunk is 8 ft. 6 in. in circumference ; one of the branches is 4 ft. 6 in. ;
another 3 ft. ; and a third, 2 ft. 10 in., besides several of lesser dimen-
sions.

There is also a plant of the Garrya elliptica, which measures 21
yards in circumference and 10 ft. high. It stands in quite an exposed
position, as a specimen on grass, and a very fine symmetrical plant it is.

John Garrett.

WlIITTINGHAME.

THINNING ONIONS UNNECESSARY.

Some time ago I stated in 'The Gardener' that Mr Pettigrew of
Cardiff Castle Gardens never thinned his Onions. On his recom-
mendation the Onion crop here, in 1878, was treated in this way, with
the most satisfactory results. At the end of the season the crop was
a very heavy one for the size of the ground it occupied ; and although
many of the bulbs were growing in clusters of fives and sixes, all were
of fair and useful size. In fact, many were above the average in this
respect, as we were awarded second prize at Cardiff amongst over a
score of competitors, and the bulbs were all selected from one un-
thinned row. For little labour and a heavy crop this plan may be
highly recommended. J. Mum.

Margam.

GREENFLY ON THE GOOSEBERRY.

I venture, through the pages of ' The Gardener,' to ask its numerous
readers if any of them have experienced any difficulty in keeping
down this pernicious pest 1 For the last few years I have been very
much troubled by them attacking the bushes just before the fruit
begins to ripen. I may mention that the soil, a gravelly hard
pan, has been regularly forked over and manure added ever season.
Acting on the idea that the roots might have got away down into the
cold bottom, where they were beyond the reach of the ordinary modes
of culture, in the autumn of 187G I set to work and had them all

i879-] ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 189

lifted, trenched the soil to the depth of two spadings deep, and forked
in a quantity of stable-manure, planted the bushes, taking care to
spread the roots very evenly over the surface, then covering up with
good fresh soil ; that season they matured a good crop and made fair
wood. But again, in 1878, they were attacked by the fly ; again I
managed to save the crop by taking a pair of hand-pruners and cutting
off the points of the wood affected ; but this is a process which for
several reasons I would not like to repeat. I shall therefore feel obliged
to any of your readers who may have been troubled by the same
pest giving their remedies in ' The Gardener.' Rifleman.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

According to the arrangements of the Society medals were offered for Cyclamens
exhibited at this meeting, and in response the finest display of these charming
spring flowers that has ever been brought together was arranged in the conserva-
tory. These constituted a show in themselves, and the splendid varieties showed
on the one hand the marvellous improvement that has been effected in this
popular flower, and on the other afforded striking evidence of high cultivation.
The meeting was thus, by the Cyclamen groups alone, both attractive and in-
structive. Prominent as another great attraction of the meeting was a magnifi-
cent group of Orchids exhibited by Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart. The vigour of
the plants in this group, and the size and freshness of the flowers, riveted the
attention of all beholders. These groups, with collections of plants from most of
the leading nurseries, and a good display of fruit for the season, rendered the
meeting a highly successful one.

Fruit Committee.— John Lee, Esq., in the chair. Messrs Kinmontfe Kidd,
nurserymen, Canterbury, sent a seedling Apple called Duchess of Edinburgh,
raised from crossing Golden Winter Pearmain with Court of Wick. It was a
good Apple, but not so good as many varieties at this season. They also sent
Uncle Tom, another seedling which had no merit. Mr M'Kobie, Broomsberrow
Place, Ledbury, sent a seedling Apple which possessed no merit. Messrs. W.
Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, sent fruit of Peck's Pleasant, an American Apple
of tender flesh and sweet flavour, but it had no great merit, being rather mawkish.
Mr Divers, gardener, Wierton Place, Maidstone, sent three dishes of Apples,
consisting of Golden Knob, Green Nonpareil, and Pomme K ovale, Ribston
Pippin, Hanwell Souring, Blenheim Pippin, and Northern Greening ; a letter
of thanks was awarded. Mr Wallis, gardener, Keele Hall, sent a dish of Beurre
Diel Pear, which was passed. Messrs Sutton & Sons, Reading, sent a seedling
Rhubarb, named the "Reading Ruby," which was not considered an acquisition.
Mr Lewis Killick, Langley, Maidstone, sent twenty-four varieties of Potatoes.
Mr S. Ford, The Gardens, Leonardslee, Horsham, sent a collection of forty-nine
varieties of Apples and one of Pears ; these had been remarkably well kept, and
the Committee awarded a letter of thanks.

Floral Committee. — G. F. Wilson, Esq., F.R.S., in the chair.

Cyclamens. — As before observed, one of the most striking features of the
meeting was the extensive display of Cyclamens. Mr H. B. Smith, Ealing
Dean Nursery, Ealing, contributed quite 300 plants. Part of the group

190 THE GARDENER. [April

consisted of pure white, crimson, and red-throated varieties intermixed. The
other part of the group was composed of about 120 plants of a pure white variety,
all the plants being as dwarf and even as if they had been cast in one mould.
They were admirably grown and compact, with good foliage and splendid flowers.
Such a collection is rarely seen. It was greatly admired, and a large gold Bank-
sian medal was deservedly awarded to the exhibitor. First-class certificates were
awarded to Mr Smith for Cyclamen Ficturata, a splendid variety, having petals
24 inches in length and nearly an inch in diameter. The colour is satiny white
su ffused with rose, the base of the petals and throat purplish crimson ; leaves
small, marbled, and serrated ; flower stems stout, and a foot in height ; plant
floriferous and very attractive. Also for Crimson King : flowers medium-sized,
colour glowing magenta crimson ; flower stems mottled, and a foot high ; foliage
large, round, and smooth ; a variety of great promise.

Messrs Edmonds & Son, Hayes Nursery, Hayes, Middlesex, also staged a very
pleasing group of Cyclamens ; some of them were very large plants, on one of
which were 220 fully expanded flowers, the corm being fully 7 inches in diam-
eter ; the whole of the plants were well flowered, and some of the colours were
very rich. A silver-gilt Banksian medal was awarded. Mr R. Clarke, Twick-
enham, also exhibited 100 plants of a very highly coloured crimson variety,
and about the same number of mixed varieties. The plants were somewhat
smaller than those in the preceding collections, but the colours were very bright
and striking. A silver Banksian medal was awarded.

"We now notice a group of Orchids of extraordinary merit contributed by Sir
Trevor Lawrence, Bart., M.P., Burford Lodge, Dorking (grower Mr Spyers).
About thirty-six plants were staged. It were impossible to speak too highly of
the splendidly cultivated and densely bloomed plants ; the richness of colouring
of some, and the chaste purity of others, were most striking. Three large
plants of Dendrobium Wardianum, the centre plant in a pot, the other two
growing on blocks, were all alike healthy and grandly flowered. Each plant
had about ten vigorous growths, many of them having eight tiers of blooms, or
more than 100 large and fresh flowers on each plant. A large plant of Den-
drobium nobile ccerulescens was profusely bloomed and very beautiful ; Cypri-
pediums Boxalli and villosum were large and grand. A magniiicent plant of
Ccelogyne Lemoineana, pure white and lemon throat, was very chaste ; Odon-
toglossums crispum and crispum roseum were very beautiful, as was also a well-
coloured plant of Phalsenopsis Schilleriana. Dendrobiums crassinode Barberi-
ana, D. crassinode grandiflorum, and D. luteolum, the latter with several pale
lemon flowers, were all of them very attractive. Odontoglossums Rossii, Lind-
leyanum, speciosum, Cervantesii roseum, triumphans, &c, various Coelogynes,
Lycaste Skinneri, the very curious Spathoglottis Lobbii, and Masdevallia poly-
sticta, were all well represented ; and; exceedingly striking was a fine plant of
Cymbidium eburneum with eight grand wax-like flowers; also Lselia anceps
alba with two flowers, and the brilliant Laslia harpophylla, the finest plant we
have ever seen, and perhaps the brightest Orchid in cultivation. The flowers —
there were twenty-one of them — are in form not unlike those of Tritonia aurea,
but larger, and are of the most intense orange scarlet imaginable. A large
gold Banksian medal was awarded for this fine collection.

A silver Flora medal was awarded to Mr H. Benham, gardener to the Earl of
Stradbroke, Henham Hall, Wangford, Suffolk, for four profusely bloomed plants
of Phalsenopsis Schilleriana with magnificent foliage ; and a first-class certificate
was awarded to Messrs Hugh Low & Son, Clapton, for a remarkable Orchid
Cymbidium Lowianum. In growth the plant resembles C. Hookerii. The spike,

1879.] ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 191

which was gracefully arched, contained twelve flowers, each 4 inches in diam-
eter. The sepals and petals are pale olive green faintly striped with cinnamon,
the throat creamy white, and lip a rich velvety reddish brown. It is novel and
very striking. A similar award was made to F. A. Phillbrick, Esq., Q.C.,
Avenue Road, Eegent's Park (Mr Heims, gardener), for Ipsea speciosa, an
Orchid first introduced from Ceylon in 1840. The plant had two bright yellow
Dendrobium -like flowers, borne on the summit of a stem 2 feet high, very clear
in colour and distinct. The same exhibitor was awarded a vote of thanks for a
fine spike and variety of Odontoglossum Andersonianum. Mr Green, gardener
to Sir George Macleay, Bart., was awarded a vote of thanks for Odontoglossum
crispum Macleayi, with crimson blotches. Mr Green had also a similar award
for some other rare plants ; he also exhibited a bloom of Vanda Cathcartii, which
had been open for six weeks and had been cut from the plants three weeks. A
plant of Maxillaria (Bifrenaria) Buchaniana was exhibited by H. J. Buchan,
Esq., Wilton House, Southampton. The throat of the flower is golden yellow
striped with brown, petals white, and sepals rose — highly perfumed. The same
exhibitor staged cut spikes of Orchids, and was awarded a vote of thanks.

A very attractive collection was staged by Messrs James Veitch & Sons,
consisting of fine fringed red and white Primulas, a very superior strain of
Cyclamens exceedingly well flowered, a row of dwarf plants of Aucuba japonica
profusely berried, several very handsome and striking Amaryllises. To one of
these, Virgil, a first-class certificate was awarded. The flower is very large and of
excellent form. It measured upwards of 7 inches in diameter, the well-rounded
petals being 3 inches across. The prevailing colour is cream with a greenish
tinge, the centre of the petals being flaked and spotted with scarlet. It is of
the Leopoldii type, and an extremely fine variety. A similar award was made to
the same firm for a new and very graceful Fern, Davallia Mariesii, an evergreen
species from Japan, and both on account of its hardiness and elegance will prove
very valuable. Several Palms were included in the group, also a plant of Cam-
ellia reticulata flore-pleno with very elegant flowers, resembling both in the bud
and in a half-expanded state Roses in the same stages ; also a beautiful plant
of Lselia Veitchii with eight richly coloured flowers. Messrs Veitch further ex-
hibited small plants of a new and highly distinct Dracaena from the South Sea
Islands. This plant, which is named Princess Marguerite, is even more elegant
in habit than D. Cooperii, and is coloured almost exactly similar to Aspidistra
lurida variegata, two-thirds of the leaves being creamy white, tinted with pink
and flaked with green. On account of the evident free growth of the plant and
of its clear colours, it can scarcely fail to prove valuable for decorative and market
purposes. A vote of thanks was awarded for the collection.

From Mr "VV. Bull came several attractive Palms, Encephalartos villosus and
cycadifolius ; smaller groups of Odontoglossums Phalsenopsis and cirrhosum in-
termixed with small Palms, Cattleyas, Lycastes, Oncidiums, &c. ; also several
plants of the much-admired Dracaena Goldieana. A very large plant of Odonto-
glossum cirrhosum, with ten spikes ; Vanda suavis, with a terminal raceme of
flowers ; Dendrobium Wardianum, with enormous flowers ; and the distinct and
chaste double Epacris onosmaeflora flore-pleno nivalis. A silver-gilt Banksian
medal was awarded for the collection.

Mr B. S. "Williams sent an attractive collection of Amaryllises, well-bloomed
plants of Dendrobium Wardianum, a large centre plant of Cypripedium villosum,
Odontoglossum Alexandras, a pan of Dracaena Bausei, a pair of the pretty and
neat-flowering Primula denticulata, the new Azalea Princess Maude, very bright ;
some very dwarf plants of Aucuba himalaica nana, very profusely berried ; and a

192 THE GARDENER. [April

very superior strain of Primula sinensis finibriata alba and rubra intermixed. A
silver Banksian medal was recommended. From Messrs Osborn & Son came an
excellent group of decorative plants, consisting of Palms gracefully weeping over
well-bloomed Rhododendrons ; Azaleas, Dendrobium nobile, Spiraeas, and several
small plants of Cocos Weddelliana completed the group, for which a silver
Banksian medal was awarded.

Messrs "YV. Paul & Son contributed sixteen boxes of Camellias, which were
very much admired. They contained about fifty splendid varieties. Some of
the boxes were composed of one variety, amongst which we noted Finibriata,
two boxes of Alba plena, Belle Jeanette, Imbricata, Eximea, Marchioness of
Exeter, and the crimson Bealli, very bright indeed. Souvenir Emile Dufresne
is a very striking red flower of good substance, with a white stripe down the
centre of the petals. Very effective were some fine flowers of Mathotiana and
Madame de Strekaloff. Princess Charlotte, Elegans, La Reine, and Montironi
were among the best white varieties not named above. Mr Paul also exhibited
a plant of the splendid white Camellia Ninfa Egeria, which is not more remark-
able for the great excellence of its flowers than for its compact growth and dark
glossy foliage. A silver Flora medal was awarded. Mr Cannell, Swanley, Kent,
sent two boxes of Pelargoniums, very bright and fine ; some very dwarf Agera-
tums, Cannell's Dwarf, worthy of its name, and will be valuable for small beds
and edgings ; and sprays of Fuchsia cordifolia splendens, laden with bright
Corrsea-like flowers. A vote of thanks was awarded. A similar award was
granted to Mr Blond, gardener to Mrs Graham Smith, Cranbourne Court, for a
basket of well-cultivated Neapolitan Violets. A cultural commendation was
awarded to Mr Tidy, gardener, Stanmore, for a large plant of Primula sinensis ;
and a vote of thanks to Mr James Redlees, Isleworth, for fine and highly-coloured
flowers .of Cinerarias. Several Primulas and Imantophyllum miniatum were
sent from the Society's garden at Chlswick ; and Messrs Prentice Brothers, Stow-
market, exhibited samples of their new fertiliser "Florivita " — Life of Flowers
— a pale pink powder and perfumed. — Journal of Horticulture.

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION".

The second annual meeting was held in the hall, 5 St Andrew Square, Edin-
burgh, on the evening of Tuesday the 4th ult., Mr M. Dunn, president, in the
chair. After the disposal of a variety of routine business, Mr Milne, assistant
secretary, read the report of the council for the past year, from which it appeared
that 111 new members had joined since last annual meeting, and that the roll
now numbers 352. Twenty-four papers in all had been read on subjects con-
nected with horticulture, all of which had been followed by interesting and
instructive discussions. A great variety of Plants, Flowers, Fruits, and Vege-
tables had been exhibited, many of them of more than average merit; and, on
the recommendation of the adjudicating committees, twelve certificates had been
granted by the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society. Reference was also
made in feeling terms to the great loss the Association had sustained by the
death of Sir William Gibson-Craig, Bart, of Riccarton, Honorary President ;
Messrs Thomas Methven, one of the council ; John Beveridge and George
Galloway, members ; and James M'Nab and Thomas Lees, members of the
adjudicating committes. Mr D. P. Laird, treasurer, read his report, which
showed that the income, including a balance of £10, 6s. Id. from last year,
amounted to £48 — expenditure £27 — leaving a balance on hand of £21. Both
reports were cordially adopted. Mr A. D. Mackenzie, of Mackenzie & Moncur,
Horticultural Builders, gave a brief description of the structures shown on the
Kitchen-garden plans to which prizes weie awarded, and which were hung on

1879.] NOTICE OF BOOK. 193

the walls for the inspection of the members. The following gentlemen were
unanimously elected office-bearers for the current year : Mr W. H. Maxwell
of Munches, hon. president; Mr M. Dunn, president; Mr Hugh Fraser, vice-
president ; Mr D. Laird, treasurer ; and Mr Alex. Milne, secretary. From
fourteen members nominated to fill six vacancies in the Council, the meeting
chose Messrs A. D. Mackenzie, A. Mackenzie, Laurence Dow, Robert Lindsay,
"Robert Morrison, and |George Simpson. On the table for exhibition were
specimens of the new late -keeping kitchen Apple, Beauty of Moray, in fine
condition, from Mr Webster, Gordon Castle; a new table Apple named Lady
Charlotte, described as a hybrid between Eibston Pippin and King of the
Pippins, from Mr George Barry, Saltoun Hall ; a pot of Leucojum vernum, in
full flower, from Mr Dow, Saughton Hall ; and a collection of spring flowering-
plants, including Iris reticulata, Leucojum vernum nanum, Bulbocodium
vernum, Primula cashmeriana, Primula dent'culata pulchella, and Saxifraga
Burseriana, from Messrs Dicksons & Co., Pilrig Park.

PRESENTATION TO MR WILLIAM HINDS.

On the 17th of February 1879 a number of the principal gardeners in the
neighbourhood of Liverpool and a few friends assembled at the Public Boom?,
Aigburth, for the purpose of making a presentation to our contributor, Mr
Hinds, on the occasion of his relinquishing his post as head-gardener to Sir
T. E. Moss, Bart. The present was a handsome gold watch, with the inscrip-
tion : " Presented' to Mr William Hinds by Gardeners and Friends of Liver-
pool, as a token of respect, on the occasion of his leaving the service of Sir
T. E. Moss, Bart. Liverpool, February 17, 1879. The gift was in recognition
of the sterling worth and gentlemanly demeanour of Mr Hinds, and the able
manner in which he had represented Liverpool as a horiculturist.

NOTICE OF BOOK.

The Fern World. By Francis George Heath. Sampson Low & Co.,
London.

We have already noticed this interesting and instructive volume. The work
is well calculated to accomplish the end the author has in view — namely, to
create an interest in, and love for, Ferns, and to teach how they should be
cultivated. The volume is now being reissued as a serial in monthly parts;
and we trust that in this form and manner of publication it may have a large
increase of readers. The book is charmingly written, very instructive, and is
7)rofusely illustrated with coloured plates and engravings of photographs taken
from nature. It should be in the libraries of all who are interested in the
Fern World.

The Phylloxera vastatrix in the Vineyards of France. — A Paris
correspondent informs us "that the insect is spreading in all the wine-growing
countries ; no remedy discovered." It seems as if the prediction of Mr David
Thomson, editor of ' The Gardener,' was coming to pass. Five years ago he
wrote to the French Minister of the Interior, stating that going by his own
experience of the insect, he believed that the only remedy was to grub the in-
fected vineyards. Five hundred thousand acres have been already grubbed.
We have since received confirmation of the reports as to Portugal and the
island of Madeira from Messrs Page & Sandeman, Pall Mall. — Maidstone and
Kentish Journal.

194

THE GARDENER.

[April

THE WEATHER.

Tin: following remarkably low temperatures occurred at the following places
on March 14th : —

Mr Forbes's Nursery, Hawick,
Ingleston Gardens, P,;itho, ...
Edinburgh, Craigleith Nursery,
Drumlanrig Gardens, ....
Dumfries, Messrs Kennedy's Nursery, .
Brayton Gardens, Cumberland,

20°

of frost.

3°

below zero.

25°

of frost.

16°

,,

12°

,,

12°

J ;

— ^>os#^e *-t>-

(SaUn&ar.

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

There having been so little time to
make adequate preparation for the
more important garden crops, we fear
in many cases the qualities of garden
seeds will be severely taxed, especially
where land is very tenacious and wet.
Some are easily tempted to sow their
seeds, thinking that " delays are dan-
gerous." In such cases as referred to,
nmch haste is often the dangerous
course. We have distinct recollec-
tions of what young beginners have
accomplished by "much haste, but
less speed." We once had a goodly
order of seeds placed into our hands,
which had been supplied to a young
beginner, who had condemned nearly
all and sundry as being worthless, and
would not vegetate. Though it was
the second year after they had been
consigned, all and sundry (except such
things as French Beans, and a few7
others), did not only vegetate, but
were first - rate kinds. The seeds-
man (who, however, knewr nothing of
the affair) had been "shunted" as a
dealer in "cheap, but worthless seeds. "
Now where soil turns up sticky, like
pitch, wet and cold, we would advise
waiting till it is tolerably dry, and
would cover the seeds with fine soil
from a dry shed, or from a heap of
congenial material ; and to give battle
to slugs must be a speciality. Have a
quantity of ashes, shifted through a
fine sieve ; put the rough portion aside
for burning ; mix a little soot and
lime with them (this is not indispens-
able) ; dust over the rows, rather
thickly, by box-edgings, or near to
Cabbage crops or other shelter, for

vermin, and repeat it if weather or
other influences should cause it to be-
come inert. By attention to this we
have never suffered materially from
the slug pest. Birds are best kept off
by nets or frame-wrork covered with
wrire - netting. Arrears of every de-
scription must be brought forward
with every available means at com-
mand. To give weeds a check, the
hoe or prong must be applied freely.
When the weeds are just coming
through the soil, then is the time for
attack. Leaving them till there is
something to "tug at" is giving the
enemy quarters of "defence and of-
fence." When young seedlings, such
as Onions, Carrots, Turnips, &c, are
coming up, they are often accompanied
by double their number of weeds ; and
if the latter are not destroyed in their
early stages they do much injury to
the crops. All renovations ought to
be brought to a close as early as pos-
sible. Repairing of box and other
edgings, edging tiles misplaced by
frost, gravelling of walks, reducing
overgrown collections of herbs (divid-
ing and replanting these is the most
satisfactory treatment they can re-
ceive), are some of the items of labour
which require attention before the sea-
son advances too far. Let all growing
crops, such as Cabbage, Broad Beans,
Peas, Lettuce, &c. , have the hoe or
prong neatly worked among them.
A sweet-growing surface is of great
benefit to the plants. Cabbage and
main crops of Cauliflower may be
planted out from the winter stores, or
what have been raised early under glass.

i879-

CALENDAR.

195

Cauliflower under hand-lights may be
mulched with rotten manure; this will
encourage free growth and help much
to prevent the young plants "button- j
ing." If weather should be dry and
warm, give guano-water in mild form;
or when rain falls in what is known as
April showers, remove the covers from
hand-lights and bell-glasses or clocks, ;
where they are in use, for a few hours.
Crops of Peas and Beans should be
sown for successions about three times
during the month. Several kinds, to
come in at different dates, may be ;
sown at one time. Stake Peas before
they fall over, and twist their stems at \
surface of soil. All the Brassica tribe of
plants may be sown on a thoroughly
prepared border, made firm. Small
seeds require little covering, and should
not be sown thickly. Drills, we need
hardly say, are most suitable for these,
and require less labour. The old sys-
tem of sowing broadcast is almost out
of date. Broccoli for main crops may
be sown about the middle of month ;
also more Cabbage (a pinch of Bed
Cabbage may be of service), Brussels
Sprouts, Cauliflowers, Savoys, and Kale
of the various kinds. The two latter
have been of much value during the
late severe winter ; and successions
of these, as well as very late Broc-
coli, are useful during extra severe
weather. Sow for main crop Carrots.
James's Scarlet is one of the most
useful ; Long Surrey is one of the
longest ; Early Nantes and Short-
horn are the earliest. Deep, well-
broken ground, not too rich, suits
these well ; sand and fine siftings
from coal - ashes pointed into the
ground is an aid in supplying clean
growth. Turnips, Spinach, Badishes,
and small Salads ought to be sown
about every 7 to 10 days. They get
so quickly out of use, that it is well
to have quantities in close succession.
Celery may be sown on a border under
a hand-light, or in a frame ; but a few
hoops, placed so that a mat may be
thrown over when frost is expected,
answers well in most cases and posi-

tions for late crops of Celery. Let
the earlier crops be pricked out in
frames or in boxes and protected with
glass. If they are allowed to be
coddled and drawn up for want of
light and air, they are sure to run to
seed before they are of any use. A
little Beet may be sown for a first lot;
but it is early enough to sow about
end of month, and early in May, for
main crops. Deep, well-broken soil
suits this root ; hot, dry, very poor
soil renders the roots tough, stringy,
and colourless. The main crop of
Leeks may yet be sown. As soon as
the early lot are ready to plant they
should be placed in rich, well-culti-
vated soil. Early-sown crops should
be examined to see that they are safe
from slugs, or coming up at all. Sow
again where there is danger of failure.
Parsley may be sown for edgings where
such is required. Plant out main crop
of Potatoes, also Jerusalem Artichokes,
and Seakale roots of a few inches long.
Asparagus may be planted and sown
to keep up supplies where much is
lifted and forced. Dustings of salt and
guano sprinkled lightly over Aspara-
gus-beds coming into bearing are of
much service in giving large crowns.
Guano -water may be used for the
same purpose. Preparation should be
made for crops of Mushrooms to come
in during latter part of May and in
June. A bed formed in a cellar or
other position, cool and away from
sun and heat, is very desirable. New
spawn is much safer than old. In the
early part of the season, our beds
made with old spawn came in thin
and took a long time to start into
bearing; but at present beds made
with far less care are a mass of fine
Mushrooms : the spawn was fresh.
French Beans may be planted from
pots into frames and pits from where
Potatoes were lifted : those bearing
may be helped with guano- water. Late
crops of forced Potatoes should have
the lights off them daily. In fact, the
latter are only required as protection

M. T.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — Probably succession Pines
that are usually shifted into their
fruiting-pats in February have not
been attended to at the usual time
owing to the long - continued and

severe frost. Their having been sub-
jected to such an unusual amount of
fire-heat, and left for a month longer
in small pots, has increased the possi-
bility of their starting prematurely

196

THE GARDENER.

[April

into fruit when shifted and subjected
to increased temperature of both soil
and air. To counteract this tendency
a little extra attention is necessary
all through the month. They should
be kept a little moister at the roots ;
and the atmosphere should also be
more moist than would be necessary
in ordinary seasons. If April be bright
and dry, shade the plants slightly for
three hours in the middle of the day,
and keep the pits somewhat closer
until it be quite evident that the
plants have started kindly into
growth ; then do away with the shade
by degrees, give more air, and in
every respect adopt a hardier treat-
ment to prevent a weakly growth.
The night temperature will be high
enough at 65°. Give air in the morn-
ing before the glass touches 75° with
sun-heat, gradually increasing it till
noon. Shut up by degrees, and en-
tirely, sufficiently early to run the
glass to 85° for a short time with sun-
heat. Early-started Queens may now
be pushed on with increased heat,
especially on sunny days, when the
house should be closed early enough
to run the glass up to 85°, with a
corresponding amount of moisture.
Start the fire in time to prevent
the heat from falling below 70° at 10
p. M. In cold clear nights 65° at 9
a.m. will be sufficient. Keep them
steadily moist at the root, and occa-
sionally give the surface of the soil a
pinch of Standen's manure before
watering ; or water every time they
are dry with water coloured with gu-
ano. As soon as these early fruiters —
almost always Queens — show suckers,
reduce the number to two on each I
plant. Smooth Cayennes, and other
sorts that may have started late and
that are now colouring, should be kept
at 70° at night, and have rather more
air on fine days, to insure fine flavour.
The soil should be less moist than
when swelling off; but do not now dry
them off as has been recommended for
midwinter ripening. Any suckers on
these should now be potted, and if
young stock be desired, save the old
stools ; and after the fruit are cut, re-
move all the leaves, and lay the
stumps in light open soil in a bottom-
heat of 85°, and they will soon start a
quantity of buds that will make nice
young plants by autumn. Shift
winter -fruiting sorts that are well
rooted in 8-inch into 11 -inch pots, and

grow on briskly for three months ; and
after being then kept cool and dry for
six weeks they will start for winter
supply.

Vines. — It is to be feared that pot-
Vines from which ripe Grapes were
at one time expected by the 1st of
May will be quite a fortnight or three
weeks later, owing to the severity of
the first three months of forcing.
They may now, however, be pushed
along at a brisk pace if April prove a
clear sunny month, and high tempera-
tures can be had without hard firing.

• Unless ou very cold nights, they may
be subjected to 70° all night when
shut up early with sun-heat. They
must now be steadily supplied with
water, and fed with top-dressings of
horse-droppings, Standen's manure,
and weak guano- water, up to the colour-
ing point, when the stimulants should
be less strong. As soon as colouring
begins, increase the amount of air
slightly, and do not increase the heat
— rather let the night temperature de-
cline a few degrees, and never omit a
chink of air on all night. Owing to
so much fire-heat early in the season,
let a sharp look-out be kept on red-
spider, and let the first appearance of
it be attended to with a syringe and a
little soapy water, taking care not to
pull the leaf-stalks about in the pro-
cess. Succession early permanent
Vines that have their roots partly
in inside, partly in outside borders,
and that are now swelling their fruit
rapidly, must have the inside border,

• specially near the hot pipes, frequent-
ly noticed, so that by any chance they
do not get too dry. We do not ap-
prove of much sprinkling all through
the day of the floors of vineries ; but
after bright days, when a maximum
of air is necessary, let all surfaces be
moistened with a syringe when the
vinery is shut up on sunny days, and
close the ventilators for an hour or
two, after which let a little air be put
on the front-lights for the night, and
in extent according to the state
of the weather. All Grapes that
are thinned may now have a higher
night temperature than is desir-
able for earlier crops when at the
same stage. At 10 p.m. on fine
nights the heat may stand at 70°,
falling 5°, or even 10°, before morning,
just according to the state of the
weather. Tie down the young growths
of later houses, and thin the bunches

IS79-

CALKN DAR.

197

of free-setting sorts to about the num-
ber to be ultimately left for the crop.
Disbud all Vines that are just broken
half an inch, leaving the strongest
buds and those best placed for be-
ing easily tied to the wires. Late
Vines intended to ripen thoroughly
by the end of September without
being hurriedly forced should now be
shut up and started, taking care that
inside borders are thoroughly watered
first. In the case of oldish vines, give
the borders outside and inside a good
top-dressing of bone-meal, and over it
two or three inches of substantial farm-
yard manure.

Peaches. — The earliest Peaches,
when stoned and swelling freely, may
have the temperature advanced to 65°
at night during mild weather, and
especially when the house can be shut
up with sun-heat ; but when cold
windy nights occur, 60° is high
enough. See that the inside border
is properly supplied with water ; and
in the case of oldish free-bearing trees,
apply liquid-manure. Let the mois-
ture of the atmosphere be increased in
proportion to light and heat, and syr-
inge the trees freely every tine after-
noon at shutting-up time. Examine
the trees carefully, and see that they
are neither over-cropped nor too thick
of young wood, and remove all super-
fluous growths, so that what is re-
tained and tied to the trellis has plenty
of room. Disbud and pinch young wood
in succession-houses ; thin the fruit
also, and do not let greenfly get a
footing. We have known Peach
crops destroyed in cool houses by
April frosts, and means should be
taken to prevent this by putting a
little heat into the pipes — or where
there are no pipes, by partially or
wholly covering the glass with canvas.
If mildew appears on trees in any
stage of growth, dust them with flower
of sulphur.

Figs.— Never allow trees producing
early crops in pots to get very dry at
the root, and supply them with rich
top-dressingaud liquid-manure. Pinch
the shoots intended to produce a
second crop at the sixth or seventh
joint, and remove all young growths
that are weakly, and are likely to
crowd the trees. The temperature
recommended for Peaches is suitable

to the early Fig crop. If not already
done, mulch established free-bearing
trees in limited inside borders with
manure, and keep them moist at the
root. The Fig is a moisture - loving
plant, and should be freely syringed
every fine afternoon, till the fruit be-
gin to ripen.

Melons. — As soon as a full crop is
set on the earliest plants, increase the
moisture in the air, and if dry at the
root give a good watering. Keep the
night temperature at 68° or 70°, and
shut up with the glass at 85° for a
short time on fine afternoons. Give
air rather freely every favourable
opportunity, so as to produce a stiff
vigorous foliage. Impregnate those in
bloom at mid-day, when the pollen is
in good condition. Stop the growths
one leaf beyond the fruits. Sow and
plant out for succession crops. A
stronger loam may now be used than
earlier in the season.

Cucumbers. — Mulch those in full
bearing with horse - droppings or old
mushroom-bed manure, and look over
them several times weekly, stopping
young shoots at every joint, and remov-
ing all deformed fruits and any old
foliage that is crowding the newer.
Shut up early in the afternoons, and
syringe the foliage several times
weekly. Be careful to keep a moist
atmosphere and a sharp look-out for
thrip and red-spider. The night tem-
perature will be sufficient at 70 .
Attend to more recently - planted
crops as directed in former Calendars.

Strawberries in Pots. — Remove to
cold frames all plants from which the
fruit is all gathered, to be thoroughly
hardened off before being planted out.
Subject colouring fruit to a free circu-
lation of dry warm air. Thin the
fruit from the trusses of those which
are beginning to swell : a temperature
of 65° at night is high enough for those
swelling off. Those in bloom set bet-
ter at a temperature of from 55° to 60°.
After this season it is a good plan to
stand the pots of plants in all stages
in pots of the same size, half filled with
equal portions of loam and rotten dung.
Introduce more plants into heat, and
put all remaining stock in cold pits or
frames, where they will now grow
freely by the aid of husbanded sun-
heat.

198 THE GARDENER. [April 1879.

|Toticcs fa Correspondents.

All business communications aud all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in ' The Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not fur
publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and address
of writer.

Stove. — 1. Polystichum mucronatum; 2. Pteris tremula. The other Ferns
we cannot recognise, being young fronds, and very much shrunk up in the car-
riage. 3. Too small a morsel to make out what it is, especially without a
flower. 4. A Mesembryauthemum, but without a flower cannot say which.
5. Begonia rosiflora. 6. Coronilla glauca. 2. Begonia carminata. 3. A
Begonia which we do not know. You seem to have confused the numbers.

Beginner. — In your wet climate keep the bottom of your cold frame 6
iuches above ground-level and drain it well. Your hotbed may be sunk a
foot and a half, provided you can prevent water from standing in the site.

G. C. H. — You should get some practical treatise on the Vine and study it,
as your questions pretty nearly require such to answer them. So far you have
done very well, but to tell you how to treat the Vines from now till the time
the crop is cut would pretty well fill our whole number. The best way to
nourish or "feed" your Vines is to dress with rich farmyard manure, and
water with the drainings of the same and guano-water alternately. Make up
the remainder of your border with brown loamy turf from an old pasture with
a cwt. of bones to every 5 or 6 cart-load, and make it 2\ ft. deep. This could
be done in autumn as soon as the crop is cut. G^t ' A Practical Treatise on
the Grape Vine,' published by Messrs William Blackwood & Sans, and it will
keep you right on all points.

C. L. C. — The plants you name are herbaceous without doubt.

Mrs Richards. — Chrysanthemums are best raised from cuttings annually,
and this should be done in January or February at latest. As you seem to be
in possession of old stools, we should advise you to divide them at once into
pieces with roots attached to them and pot them in rich soil. Some cuttings
may yet be struck. They will form blooming plants if not stopped too late in
the season. You will find full directions for their culture in the January and
February numbers of ' The Gardener ' of 1877.

ERRATA.

In last month's "Notes from the Papers," at page 119, for "indignant
attempt," read "malignant; " and for "quite a little ashamed," read "just a
little." Reader.

THE

GARDENER

MAY 1879.

GLADIOLUS-CULTURE.

HE Gladiolus as a florist's flower is of very recent date.
Very rapid strides have been made during the last
ten or a dozen years in bringing it up to its j)resent
standard, but the high prices which are charged for
many of these newer varieties have tended to keep
its cultivation in a somewhat backward condition. Like so many
hardy flowers which have been improved by cultivators — more
so than many — the Gladiolus deserves to hold rank amongst
the noblest, the most gorgeous, the most beautiful of flowers.
Amongst flowers of the same typical character, there is none that
excels it, none its equal. But it is seldom seen grown equal to
its deserts. Not unfrequently cultivators in esse, when purchasing,
give their order under the express condition of obtaining the great-
est possible number of corms, and in the greatest possible number of
varieties. An order given and executed under such conditions is
certain to include many sorts which will not give satisfaction. It is
infinitely better to limit the number of varieties, and grow several of
each of these, than to go in for variety at the expense of quality. The
pride which many — may I say all of us? — feel in having a great number
of varieties of particular plants under our own care is more a matter of
sentiment than of practical utility. A dozen plants of one really good
variety is practically of more value in all respects than were the dozen
plants composed of as many varieties not quite so good as that parti-
cular sort. In the case of a comparatively expensive flower like the
Gladiolus, it is the more necessary to guard against purchasing variety
at the expense of quality. It is advisable therefore, in giving an order

p

200 THE GARDENER. [May

for these, to explain to the florist tradesman the desire to obtain
thoroughly reliable sorts without considering the matter of variety too
closely. For the benefit of those who prefer to order the sorts them-
selves, a short list of good cheap sorts is here given. Many amateurs
of limited means either grow or are desirous of becoming cultivators
of the Gladiolus— to such this list is expected to prove of value. Adele
Souchet, Adolphe Brongniart, Elegans, John Waterer, Madame Furtado,
Meyerbeer, Milton, Didon, Rossini, Penelope, Velleda, Madame Basse-
ville. This, a more expensive selection, though the newer sorts are
not included — Beatrix, De Mirbel, Marquis of Lothian, Le Phare, Le
Vesuve, Lulli, Murillo, Shakespeare, Virginalis, Octavie, Orpheus,
Horace Vernet.

The Gladiolus delights in an open, light, rich soil. Last season our
stock was planted in an extra open and rich mixture, and considering
the state of the bulbs at planting, I have never had Gladiolus finer.
In 1877 the cold wet season kept the entire stock in a very backward
condition ; many of them were lifted, potted, and flowered during
winter in the conservatory. The effect on the young corm was very
bad ; indeed not only were many of the flowering stock of that
season destroyed without young corms being formed, but in the case
of those that did prosper, they were small and badly ripened. Last
planting-season pits were taken out and filled with a mixture of loam,
old mushroom dung, white sand, and soot. Several corms were grown
in each pit. The most of the plants grew very strongly and flowered
well, and the young corms for this season's planting are large and fine.
I do not know a plan that would give better results, in the case of
growers of small quantities, than that above described of taking out
deep pits and planting the Gladiolus in these in a prepared compost.
Where they are grown in quantity the ground should be deeply
trenched in autumn, breaking up all clods and working in a liberal
dressing of light manure. In spring, on every occasion of suitable
weather, the ground should be surface-pointed. This is a means of
getting the soil into a sweet and open condition. In the south the
planting-season extends from February to April. I find the beginning
of the latter month a very suitable time for planting here. If planted
in clumps, holes may be taken out with a trowel for each single corm,
and the corm surrounded with fine white sand. If in beds, drills drawn
to the depth of 5 inches, with a layer of sand sown along the bottom of
each drill, makes a very suitable and expeditious way of planting.
When the Gladiolus are planted — about 8 inches apart is a suitable
width, and 15 inches between each row — a handful of sand is required
over each, then the earth drawn over, and .the ground between the rows
forked over. After the growths have pushed a few inches the space
between the rows ought again to be forked, and in another week or
two a mulching of half cow, half horse manure spread over the entire
bed. Stakes are required before the flower-spikes show themselves,

1879.] GLADIOLUS-CULTURE. 201

but ought to be long enough to tie the spikes to as they advance. If
the spikes are intended for exhibition, shading must be resorted to, as
well to preserve the lower flowers as to enhance the purity of the
flowers. Spikes that come on too early may be kept in good condition
placed in bottles of water and set away in a very cool cellar. Keep-
ing a little clean water in the opened flowers is supposed to preserve
these from fading so soon as they would otherwise do. Any indivi-
dual flower not set straight on the spike is easily worked into posi-
tion.

With regard to harvesting the corms, there is no particular hurry for
this operation being performed ; indeed, it may be considered some-
what problematical whether it were better to take them up in autumn
or to leave them in the ground over the winter and transplant in
spring. Taken up in autumn, many of them are yet quite green in
foliage ; allow this to ripen by placing the stock on the floor of a cool
vinery, or in any other place where like conditions are obtainable.
When the foliage becomes yellowish it separates readily from the
corm. The roots should be cut off at same time, but not too closely,
the young brood carefully picked from the base of the corm, and pre-
served, and these latter stored away for the winter. I leave all the old
coatings of the corm intact until before being planted, as it is a most
efficient means of keeping them from the air during winter. They
winter very well thus, laid on shelves in a cool room. The young
brood I pack away amongst dryish sand until spring, when they are
planted out thickly in rows. The ground is carefully prepared, drills
drawn 9 inches apart, a little sand sprinkled along the bottom of the
drills, and the bulblets pressed in 4 inches apart. They are left
here till they flower, which will be the second year after planting with
most of them; they are afterwards treated like the other flowering
stock.

Those who incline to raise seedlings from seed of their own saving-
would be obliged, in Scotland, to start the plants intended for seeding
earlier. Good kinds alone should be grown for this purpose. The
seed-bearing plants ought further to be cross-fertilised with pollen
from other good sorts. As the seed-pods show signs of approaching
ripeness, watch them, and pick off the pods as they become ready, lay-
ing them out in a dry and warm structure to finish. Use boxes for
raising and growing the seedlings in, sowing about the beginning of
April in a rich open compost. Cover the surfaces with moss and keep
moist. A very slightly-heating dung hotbed and frame is a very suit-
able place for the purpose of giving the seedlings a start. Air must
be admitted gradually at first, increasing it until the plants are grown
in the open air. In order to have good bulbs that will flower the
ensuing year, there must be no neglect in the matter of watering.
On the approach of cold days and nights in autumn, it will be beneficial
to have them removed to a cool structure to finish growth. Allow

202 THE GARDENER. [May

them to remain till spring in the boxes, when they are treated like the
rest of the stock. Those who do not like the trouble of saving seed
themselves may obtain it from some of the larger seed firms. It is not,
however, a profitable way of getting up a collection, as very few of the
seedlings will be found worth growing. If the characteristics of this
ilower were fixed, as they may be some day, so that good varieties
could be depended on being produced from seed, the cultivation of the
Gladiolus would be increased to an infinite extent.

11. P. BllOTHERSTON.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

English nurserymen and seedsmen pride themselves on the bewildering length
of their lists of plants, seeds, and novelties ; but one American firm at least, the
Messrs Ellnanger & Barry of Rochester, N.Y., set a praiseworthy example
by shortening theirs — and at no inconsiderable trouble to themselves, it
would appear. In the preface to their catalogue for the present year they
state "that so soon as novelties after careful trial do not answer to their de-
scriptions and the expectations raised by them, they are at once stricken
from the list. By this means we avoid a bulky catalogue, and a vast amount
of disappointment and vexation to customers."

And under the head of " Discarded Roses," we are told that, "Having com-
mented upon the new Roses, it will probably be interesting to note in order
varieties which we have rejected, with our reasons for so doing. Among the
Teas are Hortensia, of poor form and colour; Louise de Savoie, not sufficiently
distinct from Le Pactole ; Madame Celina Noirey, a coarse flower of dirty
colour ; Madame Camille has the same faults ; Madame Halphen, too much
like Isabella ; Monte Rosa, poor, and does not open well; Perle de Lyon, poor
habit, very liable to mildew ; Safrano a fleur rouge, a poor grower ; Souvenir
d'Elise Vardon, too coarse.

"Among the Hybrid Perpetuals we have thrown out the following : Antoine
Mouton, an inferior Paul Neron ; Charles Turner, an inferior General Wash-
ington ; Col. de Rougemont, an inferior Baronne Prevost ; Dr Arnal, too small,
and not of good form ; Docteur de Chains, an inferior General Jacqueminot ;
Dupuy Jamin, neither full nor distinct ; Etienne Dupuy, a shy bloomer ;
General Von Moltke, very shy bloomer, and burns in sun ; Henry Bennett, a
shy bloomer ; Monsieur Boncenne, an inferior Baron de Bonstettin ; Perfection
des Blanches, an inferior Coquette des Alpes ; S. Reynolds Hole, an inferior
Louis Van Houtte ; President Leon de St Jean, opens badly, and a shy
bloomer ; TriompLe de l'Exposition, an inferior Charles Margottin ; W.
Wilson Saunders, shy bloomer, and a poor Rose ; Lyonnaise, Madame Georges
Schwartz, Madame Marie Finger, all of the Victor Verdier type, are similar
but inferior to varieties of the same type retained."

The ' Pall Mall Gazette ' is not an infallible authority on horticultural
matters, but that does not hinder it from having very decided opinions on the
subject of gardens, nor expressing the same in its own peculiarly dogmatic
way. It does us no harm sometimes " t© see ourselves as others see us,"
even though it may happen that those who do "see us" are not gifted with
wisdom in all things, nor endowed with much discriminative perception. We
therefore extract the following fragment from a lengthy article in your Lon-

1879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 203

don evening contemporary on the subject of "Enjoyable Gardens : " "Horti-
culture is a misnomer for viniculture. Instead of a ramble along greensward
in the free air, laden with fresh scents, he traverses weary miles of glass-cov-
ered walks of brick, in an artificial languorous atmosphere, surrounded by
flower-pots and water-pipes. The whole thing is only a shade less distasteful
and tiresome than a laboratory. Perhaps, in addition to this enthusiasm for
glass, the host has a passion for Latin names, which he insists on inflicting on
men who neither know nor care about the niceties of floral classification. This
horticultural pedantry is particularly disgusting, because it really gives no
single atom of instruction, and has no single element of suggestive knowledge
about it to those who have not been trained in the subject. And you mostly
find, too, that the horticultural amateur, who is most tediously particular about
his Latin names for things, has the least possible knowledge of the general
ideas that belong to the study of botany. His knowledge is all empirical ; it
has no growth in his mind, and only consists of a bundle of detached and dis-
connected labels. Botany, rightly studied, is one of the most instructive and
useful, as well as one of the most delightful, of all the concrete sciences, be-
cause it is so simple and so perfect an example of a truly scientific classification.
But your hue horticulturist, all glass and Latin as he is, extracts as little as
possible of the true worth of his study from his vast legions of flower-pots and
specimens and labels. One wonders why these people, who bore one to death
with the special names of this flower and that, do not insist on letting you
know the exact name of the Grapes, Strawberries, and Cherries at dessert, all
in botanical dog-Latin. Of all impostors, vitriculturists seem to be the most
egregious. They are endured, and their tribes wax more numerous, because
they offer a good opening for that vulgar ostentation which is so charming a
feature of our society."

'The Gardeners' Chronicle,' which is rather credulous on the subject of
"sports" and suchlike, gives prominence to the following paragraph bor-
rowed from the 'Philosophical Transactions,' 1720 (!) : "About six years
since," says a Mr Henry Cave, "I planted against a wall a cutting from a
Muscadine Vine, on an eastern aspect, where it has the sun from its rise till
half an hour after twelve. The soil is a stiff clay ; but to make it work the
better, I meliorated it by mixing some rubbish of the foundation of an old
brick wall, where it now grows. Two years since it shot out at both ends,
about 22 inches of a side, before it came to a joint. That on the right was a
very luxuriant, exuberant branch, as large as the body of the tree, the other
side not half so thick ; and the leaves on the right were as large again as those
on the left, and I fancy the largest that ever were seen. The right hand bears
a very large and good black Grape, and large bunches ; the left hand very good
white Grapes, and I had last year more bunches of the white than of the black ;
and whereas in all Vines bearing black and blue Grapes the leaves die red,
these died white on the black side as well as the other. Last January 1
pruned the tree again, but tacked up more of the right hand (being black)
than I did on the left, for which reason I had this year a great many more of
the black than I had of the white, and they ripened for the season of the year
very well. I gathered the last about eight days since (October 23), and the
leaves die white this year also, being the second year of bearing." Parallels
to the " Culford Apparition " take some hunting up !

It has been proved by repeated trials at Chiswick and elsewhere that a large
proportion of the names in vegetable catalogues are simply synonyms. In
other words, many of the names in seed-lists do not represent distinct or new

204 THE GARDENER. [May

varieties, but as often as otherwise some old sort of good repute that has some-
times by accident received another name; but quite as often the variety has
been rechristened with the deliberate purpose of foisting it upon the public as
new, and making capital by the transaction — otherwise, "obtaining money
under false pretences." How this is done is occasionally amusingly illustrated,
and to the discomfiture of the impostor. The jugglery is accomplished in this
way : A. raises a new and excellent variety of the Cabbage tribe, we shall say,
and perhaps distributes it locally or extensively, as the case may be. By-and-
by B. comes on the scene, gets a pinch of A.'s seed, which he sows; and being
of an enterprising turn, saves the seed, and perhaps exhibits samples of the
variety as well under a new name. He has probably only harvested seed from
the first sowing ; but being desirous to realise as soon as possible, he sends it
out or sells it to some member of the trade, who brings it out with a consider-
able tlourish of trumpets a? a new aud particularly excellent thing, originated
by Mr Plausible, after years of careful selection ; and of course Mr Plausible is
ready to declare, if needful, that not a soul holds a particle of seed of the valu-
able strain but himself : and thus it falls out that the favoured tradesman is
enabled to sell A.'s Cabbage - seed about five hundred per cent above his
neighbour, who disposes of it under its original name. By-and-by the gar-
dener or his employer finds out that he has been duped ; but Mr Plausible
has pocketed the cash, and there is no redress— he is left to bite his nails.

The 'Agricultural Gazette,' speaking of manure, says: "The superiority
of farmyard manure over every other fertiliser may be accounted for as
follows : It contains from its very nature all the necessary constituents
of plants, just as surely as jam contains the constituents of the fruit from
which it was made. Besides the active ingredients, such as phosphates,
sulphates, chlorates, nitrates, &c, which are the very essence of all arti-
ficial manures, it contains a mass of organic matter which, during its decay,
gives up carbonic acid to the soil, and thus acts as a solvent upon the mineral
ingredients therein contained. As it decays slowly, it surrenders its good
qualities gradually, and hence has more ' stay ' in it than most manufactured
manures — which, as a rule, require to be applied just when or immediately
before the crop is growing most rapidly. Farmyard manure is found to im-
prove land more than any other fertiliser. The farmer who keeps a large head
of stock permanently increases the capabilities of his land, whereas purchased
manures generally increase the yield of one crop and do not affect succeeding
crops except indirectly, as previously pointed out, by increasing the manure-
heap. In this respect there is a strong resemblance between the action
of dung and that of oil-cake fed on the land with sheep. "When the
nature of the land allows of this last treatment, it is more than probable
that the condition of the land will be kept up as well as by dressings of
dung. This permanent effect of dung, whether in the form of farmyard man-
ure or sheep-droppings, gives it a real superiority over purchased manures, and
is likely to maintain its reputation among farmers in spite of the efforts of
some persons to present it to our attention from a coldly chemical point of
view. In this connection we might apply the words of Hamlet to those who
judge fertilisers entirely by analysis — "There are more things in heaven and
earth than are dreamt of in your philosophy." Let us be even willing to
admit that in the economy of nature there may be reasons which agricultural
chemists have not yet sounded that may give the dung of animals and debris
of plants a special use in the production of fresh vegetable forms. Such
docility of mind is much wanted at the present time among theorists ; but

i879-] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 205

those who are in constant and direct contact with nature are accustomed to
surprises, and learn to listen with respect to the opinions of " ignorant" men,
who, although ignorant of letters, are yet well versed in observing the faces of
the sky and the earth, growing crops and animals, whether thriving or pining.
The season labours slowly on towards spring. In this time of hurry-scurry, of
microphones and telephones, Nature seems to be falling behind. We cannot
get our ewes to go less than 21 weeks in lamb, or our cows to carry their
calves less than nine months ; wheat makes its appearance with painful de-
liberateness — spring corn, as usual, taking two steps forward and one back.
This slow evolution of natural events is, in fact, most interesting and instruc-
tive. It constitutes a fundamental difference between manufacture and agri-
culture. It must be taken into account in all speculations as to future progress,
and it must discount all too sanguine expectations as to possible improvements
in the farmer's art.

Flower-growers for market have not hitherto had so much to fear from
foreigu competition as the fruit-growers ; but if the following extract from one
of the London papers speaks truly, troubles are in store for them — probably at
no distant date : "A few days ago a box reached London from Nice containing
all sorts of cut flowers, as brilliant in hue and as richly perfumed as if they had
only just been plucked. Double Violets and Rosebuds were conspicuous, and,
like the rest, had been grown in the open air, thus saving the expense of artificial
heat. But the most remarkable thing was the wonderful freshness of the flowers,
although no special pains had been taken in the packing. The experiment,
therefore, succeeded completely in proving that these very fragile goods can be
conveyed from the shores of the Mediterranean to London in as good market-
able condition as if grown in England under glass."

We alluded some time ago to the valuable services of the Scientific Com-
mittee at South Kensington. We regret now to learn — in response, it would
appear, to our remarks — that the "collective wisdom of the experts " who com-
pose that body is over-taxed, in consequence of the disease-affected subjects
submitted to it for examination and inquiry being, as a rule, too far gone.
There used to be a story current at Kew once about a learned botanist in that
establishment who had a Drumhead Cabbage submitted to him that he might
name and describe it. After scrutinising the production critically for a length
of time, he put it aside, with the intimation that he would require to see a
flower of the plant and know some further particulars concerning it before he
could venture to say to what species it belonged — "it was new to him." This
is exactly the position of the Scientific Committee. ' ' Specimens of Cucumber
disease and what not," we are informed, are in their fullest stage of develop-
ment when submitted to the " experts ;" hence they decline to saddle them-
selves with the task of determining either the cause or the cure in any case.
One is rather surprised, not to say disappointed, at this state of things. The
Scientific Committee is composed of men who, it is generally supposed, have
been educated for duties which are entirely self-imposed. Then they have the
run of Kensington Gardens, Chiswick, and above all, Kew, where the same
authority as we have quoted once told us, " investigation of the vegetable
scourges which ruin our crops is largely carried on ; " and this takes no account
of the active aid rendered by the talented directors of these establishments.
We do not know what else could be done for the learned Committee, unless it
be the establishment of a hospital for sick plants at South Kensington, where
the members could hear clinical lectures. The "experts" refer in particular
to the Cucumber disease, which has been a favourite as well as a standing

206 THE GARDENER. [May

dish ever since the Committee commenced its labours. In fact, it has been
jocularly asserted that but for it, the Phylloxera, and an occasional blistered
Peach-shoot, the Committee's occupation would be almost gone. It is a curi-
ous circumstance, as regards the Cucumber disease, that not one of the " ex-
perts " has ever had an opportunity of seeing it till after "the originating cause
had become obliterated," seeing that the disease is usually present in all stages
of development on the same plant ! Under these circumstances, gardeners
having Cucumber plants predisposed to the disease would do the Scientific
Committee a kindness by sending the same to South Kensington — not to speak
of the service they would render to science. Of course, in such a case the
sender would have to certify in a satisfactory manner that the disease was
" a-comin' on." It would be unreasonable to tax the " collective wisdom " too
far. As the experts themselves candidly admit, "it is to gardeners and
foresters, trained to observe the beginning of things, that they look for at least
the clue to many of these maladies." Without such aid the experts, we are
told, "can only wag their heads " over the subjects submitted to them ; and it
follows, of course, from what has been before stated, that this wagging of heads
must enter rather largely into the deliberations of the Scientific Committee.

But we think the Scientific Committee might also reasonably complain on
other grounds. We do not by any means endorse the opinion emphatically
expressed on one occasion by a well-known horticulturist that the Committee
were " a parcel of humbugs ; " but it is not a flattering circumstance that the
general gardening fraternity exhibit so little faith in the South Kensington
body, and that, notwithstanding the troubles the gardener has to contend
against in the way of vegetable scourges, he rarely thinks of appealing to it for
help. On the other hand, it has been said, and we believe with great truth,
that many of our well-known horticulturists and writers for the press have
as many inquiries addressed to them in one season as would keep the Scientific
Committee employed for two or three ; and we believe the former would gladly
turn part of their work over to the latter if they could. As it is, we can but
sympathise with the " experts" in their commendable loyalty to the claims of
science, which they exhibit by their regular attendance at "meetings," in the
sustained hope that " something will turn up."

Readee.

THE THINNING AND SWELLING OF FORCED PEACHES.

It is impossible to over-estimate the value of forced Peaches as a des-
sert fruit ; but what a difference there is in the appearance and quality
of fruits grown under different systems of cultivation !

It is a well known fact that soil, climate, and the capacity of houses
have a good deal to do with the success of many eminent cultivators of
the Peach ; and it is equally well known that there are cultivators who
have to do battle with the worst elements that are emitted from the numer-
ous factories and chemical works which abound in the great manufactur-
ing districts of Lancashire and Yorkshire, and yet they are equally suc-
cessful. Let us take, for example, the fine samples of Peach culture ex-
hibited by Mr Jamieson, gardener to the Earl of Crawford, Haigh Hall,
"VVigan, at the summer show of the Royal Horticultural Society, at Pres-

1879.] THINNING AND SWELLING OF PEACHES. 207

ton last year, which, if I remember rightly, gained first honours. These
fruits were grown in a soil and climate which is not famed for its bene-
ficial effects upon vegetation. What, then, was the cause of such ex-
cellent results 1 Superior cultivation we should suppose, and nothing
else. Well, setting aside isolated instances of first-rate cultivation, and
coming to what is seasonable work just now, we may be able to point
out how good results may be obtained by attending to a few standard
rules, which are better known than they are acted upon. In the first
place, the favourable season of last year left the wood of Peach-trees
in the pink of condition, where it was properly thinned out and where
the roots were liberally supplied with water during the autumn.

The winter, it is true, has been about the worst on record for early
forcing ; and yet early Peaches, set as thick as Peas, without any artifi-
cial impregnation beyond shaking the trees, upon occasions when the
weather admitted, of giving a little air, and keeping an atmosphere
drier than usual.

Disbudding, and thinning of shoots and fruits, will have been the
order of the day for some time past.

Trees — it matters not how healthy they are — that are overladen in
the early part of the season with superfluous shoots and fruit are doing
unnecessary work, which destroys the prospect of fine fruit as effectu-
ally as if they had been cut through with a knife. It has been a neces-
sity with us for some years past to have to resort to a good deal of
scheming, on account of having to grow Peaches on narrow trellises,
which necessitated a course that is not usual under other circum-
stances. The difficulty in such cases is, that the vigour of the tree
being directed upwards to the extremity of the trellis, the very best
wood is formed where it has to be cut away, causing a loss of sap
which, if it were possible to direct and retain in the lower portions
of the tree, would exercise an invigorating influence productive of
the best results. Disbudding has, therefore, to be performed by care-
ful stages, to encourage a regular growth, but not to interfere with
the natural motion of the sap by removing too many shoots at one
time. The fruits were thinned out at once, leaving those of a bronzy
tinge (an appearance indicative of good health) at the base of the
shoot, which was intended to have its full run of growth — a few
spurs being also formed to fill up vacancies which may have occurred
by accident, or through any defect in training. After the crop is
regulated, the trees should be gone over, and each shoot of the pre-
ceding year should be examined as to the number of shoots of the
current year that was left upon it when it was disbudded : these
should be thinned out, or cut back, according to their respective posi-
tions in the tree, to a healthy young shoot which promises to travel a
good length, with a fruit at its base, on the upper part of the trellis,
where it would receive all the advantages of warmth and sunshine,
which is so beneficial to the development of fine fruit. Now, suppose

208 THE GARDENER. [May

a shoot of any given length is disbudded to, say three or four young
shoots, in order to secure a heavy crop and plenty of growth, and that
there is a fruit at the base of each young shoot ; as soon as it is seen
which is the most promising fruit nearest to the base of the shoot, the
branch might be shortened back with a sharp knife to that shoot, leav-
ing the space for one flue growth where two or three would have been
crowded before. No danger need be apprehended from this practice,
as the Peach, like other stone-fruits, is never subject to canker or gum-
ming when it is cut in a growing state, provided the operation be judi-
ciously and carefully performed ; and the flow of sap that was going to
support two or three shoots before would be concentrated in one, which
would also be the case with the fruit. And thus an improved condition
of things would be brought about, both for the present and following
year.

The same principle might also be applied to large trees which are
showing symptoms of exhaustion through overcropping, or, what is
quite as great a source of evil, overcrowding of shoots, which not only
drains the tree of its power and resources to feed, but also misapplies
and misdirects what little power is left, as well as prevents the wood
from being exposed, as it should be, to sun and air.

Next to thinning of fruit, disbudding, and the shortening back and
thinning of shoots, is a steady supply of liquid manure to the border,
and the maintenance of an atmosphere which is calculated to produce
fruit of first-rate quality. I think in a former article on the subject of
supplying fruit-trees with liquid manure, it was recommended that libe-
ral supplies should be given in the autumn before the fall of the leaf.
Where this has been attended to, and the border is already enriched,
there will be the less necessity for giving much at the present season ;
but a good deal depends upon the condition of the trees and their root-
capacity for absorbing food. A steady night-temperature of 65°, and a
day-temperature of 75° to 80°, with a moist surface, will be sufficient
till the leaves have taken their last swelling, when increased moisture
and a high day-temperature should be kept up.

It appears to me, from close observation, that there are some excellent
attempts at Peach cultivation frustrated for want of due reflection
upon the conditions under which the Peach swells its fruit most freely
in its last stages, and the reason why some fruits are so much superior
in appearance to others, except in size. Look at a score of dishes
arranged for dishibition, and examine the " finish " of each dish care-
fully, and see if the fact is not clearly established, that those which
present that handsome appearance, which is conspicuous by the skin
being distended to the utmost degree of tension, and which is the most
transparent to the sight, are not those which have been grown in a
high moist atmosphere of from 90° to 100° for a few hours each day,
and which have received no check by lowering the temperature abruptly
before the swelling process was fully completed 1 Large, coarse-looking

1879.] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 209

fruits may be clearly traced to the system of cultivation above referred
to, whilst small fruits of inferior quality are as clearly traceable to star-
vation and an inferior system of cultivation generally.

W. Hinds.

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

Having for the last few years spent considerable time in experiment-
ing on the circulation of hot water (as an amateur), I was pleased to
read Mr Hammond's remarks in the February number of ' The Gar-
dener,' and I unhesitatingly endorse the same, as they agree with the
results of my experience. His remarks are so lucid, that it would be
impossible for me to render them more intelligible had I felt inclined.

This season I have made an alteration from the old system to that
described by Mr Hammond — viz., the water, immediately it leaves
the boiler, runs down an incline to the houses to be heated, and the
pipes round the houses are on a level, and drop about 13 inches on
entering the boiler. The valves (Messenger's) are fixed to the returns
about a foot distant from the boiler. Any person interested would be
pleased at the rapid circulation denoted by the thermometrical read-
ings during its circuit, and the slight variation of temperature between
the water in the flow and return as it enters the boiler, compared with
others where the flow rises above the level of the boiler and then
drops as a return.

Any persons who doubt this statement are welcome to give me a
call and judge for themselves.

J. H.

The Mills, Swallowscliffe,
Salisbury, "Wilts.

In last month's ' Gardener ' two of your correspondents question the
correctness of my statements in ' The Gardener ' for February in refer-
ence to the above subject ; but after reading carefully what they say, I
fail to see that they prove any of my statements wrong. Mr Inglis is
of opinion that I " make too much of the inclination of the water to
form a returnrcurrent in the Jloiv-ipipe, and too little of the fact that the
water in the return-pipes is very much heavier, — that this heavy column
is pulling, as it were, a lighter one, and at the same time is pushing it
from below." Now, as regards this sentence, I may say that I consider
both columns are equally concerned in the process of circulation ; but
I object to the water in the lighter becoming colder than it was at the
time of leaving the boiler until the highest point of the apparatus is
reached. As by it doing so before reaching, this point, the relative
difference in the weight of the water in the two columns is lessened,
and, consequently, circulation is retarded. Mr Inglis next says, " that

210 THE GARDENER. [May

whether the rise in the pipes is made by a slow gradient, or by a verti-
tical rise, will not make material difference to the circulation ; but
every foot that they are thus elevated above the boiler gives greater
force to the circulation of the water." This sentence is a very import-
ant one bearing on the subject under discussion, and if its conclusions
are right, then all I have said on the matter is wrong, and therefore
worthless. Let us examine the first clause. It says — whether the rise
in the pipes is made by a slow gradient, or by a vertical rise, will not
make material difference to the circulation. Now, I maintain that,
when the highest point of the apparatus is reached by a slow gradient,
the result is a return-current in the flows. In an apparatus of a few
hundred feet of piping, this return-current is not so marked as in an
apparatus where the piping extends to thousands of feet ; but it occurs
in both. The water owes its expansion and relative lightness to heat
in the first instance, and as heat fails, the water contracts and becomes
relatively heavier; it therefore follows that the heated volumes of
water should reach the highest points of the apparatus before any
diminution of their temperature takes place ; and when this point is
reached by a slow gradient of, say 200 feet, I think Mr Inglis will ad-
mit that they cannot do so without becoming colder than they were at
the time of leaving the point on which the fire acts. And I think he
will also admit that every inch the water has to be raised after it com-
mences to cool is an extra tax on the imshing and pulling powers of
the colder and relatively heavier water in the return-pipes. The slow
gradient is therefore to be avoided as much as possible, as it leads to a
waste of force, and, consequently, retards circulation.

We will now look into the last clause, which says that every foot the
flow-pipes are elevated above the boiler, gives greater force to the cir-
culation of the water. Mr Inglis is not singular in holding this opinion.
Hot-water engineers are very decided about elevation of the flows above
the boiler being essential to rapid circulation of the water in the ap-
paratus. They will sink a hole in the earth 20 or 30 feet deep — unless
prevented by some insurmountable obstruction — to obtain elevation for
the flows above the boiler, and after the flows reach the surface from so
low a level, they are again elevated to their farthest points from the boiler
in the various compartments to be heated, so that circulation may be
more rapid still. Thus it might be supposed that the rapidity of cir-
culation was proportionate to the elevation of the flows above the point
on which the fire acts. Let us see if this is really so, by supposing 5
feet to be the distance to which the flows are elevated above the boiler in
an apparatus of, say 3000 feet of piping, and that it takes an hour and
a-half from the time the fire is lighted until all the water in the appa-
ratus has passed through the boiler. Now, if the elevation had been
10 feet instead of 5 feet, would the water have made the circuit in less
time — say an hour and a quarter ; and if the elevation had been 20 feet,
would it have performed the journey in three quarters of an hour 1 If

1879.] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 211

the elevation of the flows above the boiler determines the rate of speed
at which the water moves, then it would be possible to attain elevation
sufficient to drive the water through the apparatus at a speed equalled
only by that of the electric spark.

The rapidity of circulation of the water in the heating apparatus is
not measured or determined by the elevation of the flows above the
point on which the fire acts, but by the difference of the specific gravity
of the volumes of water in different points of the apparatus. The vol-
ume of least specific gravity will at all times occupy the highest, and
that of greatest specific gravity the lowest, point in the apparatus, unless
prevented from doing so through the defective adjustment of the latter,
which is not of unusual occurrence. Mr Inglis seems to think there is
some analogy between circulation as it takes place in the heating appa-
ratus and emptying a cistern by means of a syphon. A little considera-
tion will convince him that the two processes are not analogous. Cir-
culation does not empty the apparatus. The latter is an endless tube
full of water. At one point of this tube heat is applied, causing the
water to expand and become relatively lighter ; while at all other
points the water is contracting and becoming relatively heavier — hence
circulation.

We will now look into C. M.'s paper.

In reference to my statement that the particles of water are unable to trans-
mit heat to one another, C. M. asks, if this be so, " How does it come to pass
that water poured upon ice imparts its heat to it, the ice being then a solid ? "
In reference to this question, I may remark that hot ice would be a curiosity.
And the question implies, that by pouring hot water upon ice the latter be-
comes hot. I think, however, that it is impossible to heat ice either by pour-
ing hot water on it or by any other means. When in contact with a hotter
medium ice does not expand, and C. M. says "all bodies expand by heat."
Ice, however, is an exception to this rule, as, under the influence of heat, the
expanded particles of water of which ice is formed contract until reaching a
certain point, when they resume their liquid condition and are no longer ice,
the contracting and melting being confined to the external particles, those in
the interior not being affected by the thawing of those on the exterior of the
mass. To test the correctness of this, drop a ball of ice into a vessel contain-
ing hot water, let it remain for three or four minutes, then take out what
remains unthawed of the ball and drop it into a vessel containing cold water,
and the remaining portion of the ball of ice just taken from the hot water will
not raise the temperature of the cold, but will have an opposite effect, — thus
proving that solid particles of water are unable to transmit heat to each other
by conduction. And C. M. says solids transmit heat " by conduction only."
Now as the particles of water in a solid state, in the form of ice, are unable
to heat one another by conduction, the most reasonable inference is that they
are unable to do so in their liquid state. The next matter claiming attention
is where C. M. says, "the fact is, water transmits heat to water in the same
degree as it does to any other body." Well, "facts are chiels that winna
ding." Assertions, however, are not always facts, and we will consider the
above as only an assertion, and take it to mean that water parts with beat
to all bodies in the same degree. It is true water parts with heat to all other

212 THE GARDENER. [May

substances with which it comes in contact that are of a lower temperature
than itself, but the degree of rapidity with which it does so is measured by
the conducting power of the material acted on ; thus iron, being a good conduc-
tor of heat, is the material most used in the construction of the heating appar-
atus. I wonder how wooden pipes would act in warming our plant-houses ?
If it is a fact that water transmits heat to all bodies in the same degree, then
wooden pipes should heat our plant-houses equally as well as those of iron.
Again, C. M. assumes that, supposing the particles of water transmitted heat
to each other in the same way as those of solid bodies, " it would make no
difference whatever" to the circulation of the water in the pipes, as " the ex-
pansive properties of the water would remain the same." Now I venture to
think the expansive properties would be considerably lessened. It is owing
to the inability of the particles of water to heat one another that their expan-
sion is so much greater than what takes place in solids when exposed to the
same degree of heat. It is also a mistake to suppose that expansion is the
cause of circulation. Expansion is from the centre, and acts with equal force
in all directions — it therefore cannot cause the water to move in one direction
only; and that is what takes place in a properly-adjusted heating apparatus.
Heat and expansion are the first promoters of circulation, but cold and con-
traction are as much concerned in the continuance of the process. Neither,
however, is the cause, they are only the agents by which the cause is brought
about — that is the difference in the specific gravity of the volumes of water at
different points of the apparatus, which is the cause of the water circulating
in the pipes.

C. M. next says, " If it were possible to apply sufficient heat to liquefy bodies,
(I presume he means solid bodies), circulation would take place in the same
manner." Well, there is no use in discussing impossibilities. I may remark,
however, that C. M.'s impossibles are possibles, and vice versa. We could use
for a boiler a blast-furnace. In it the " bodies " would liquefy — the difficulty
would be about circulation. Yes, circulation and not liquefication would be
impossible, unless we turned the whole apparatus into a blast-furnace, and
cultivated those fabulous fire-eating animals called salamanders, instead of
fruits and flowers. Then, to prove that I am wrong about the return-current
in the flows when they are fixed upon an ascending scale from the boiler,
C. M. gives what he no doubt considers the right theory of the circulation or
movements of the water in the boiler and pipes. According to his theory
circulation occurs in the following way : "The water in the boiler, on being
heated, expands, consequently it then becomes lighter than the water in the
pipes, hence its tendency to rise. And as the water from the flow, which pro-
ceeds from the top of the boiler, cannot descend without mixing and equalis-
ing the temperature of both, therefore the water from the return, which is
situated at the bottom, rushes in and gets heated likewise, and continues to
expand and ascend the flow-pipe, equalising and foicing the cold before it."
As this theory of circulation differs from all others tuat I have either heard
or read about, I propose to distinguish it by calling it the equalised mixed
forcing theory. It supposes that the hotter and relatively lighter water ascends
from the boiler to the flow-pipes, which is true, that the colder water in the
flow will not descend to the boiler, and that the heated water on entering the
flow commences a twofold action — that is, equalising the temperature, and at
the same time forcing the cold before it, which I venture to think is not true.
The hotter and relative lighter water cannot force the colder and heavier
water before it on an uphill course. Still C. M. thinks the above theory of

1879.] CHOICE HARDY SPRING FLOWERS. 213

circulation is correct, and in the closing sentence of his paper says that
" That part of the structure which is situated farthest from the boiler will be
the hottest, the pipes being at the highest elevation ; " which goes far to prove
that a continuous rise in the pipes does not hinder circulation, but the re-
verse. The only inference that can be drawn from this sentence is, that
the water on its journey from the boiler to the highest and farthest point of
the apparatus suffers no diminution, but, on the contrary, increases in tem-
perature. This may be so where the apparatus is fitted up on equalised
mixed forcing principles. The mixing required to equalise the temperature of
the hotter and colder water, and the force required on the part of the equal-
ised water to drive the cold water before it uphill, may have the effect of
generating heat, so that the water on reaching the point highest and farthest
from the boiler maybe hotter than when it left the point on which the fire acts.
I think, however, that C. M. is mistaken in thinking so ; but if he can prove
that it is so, then, ye inventors of fuel-economising boilers, your occupation
is gone, and coal bills will no longer vex the gardener ! For if the water gets
hotter after entering the flows, then all that will be required will be a little
fuel to start it out of the boiler in the first instance, the mixing and equal-
ising will do the remainder. And if the water parts with no heat until it reaches
the highest point of the apparatus, as indicated in C. M.'s paper, would it not
be best to have this point as near the boiler as possible ? By having it so, the
mixing, equalising, and forcing would be reduced to a minimum, and conse-
quently a more rapid circulation of the water in the pipes would be the effect.

J. Hammond.
Bhayton Hall.

CHOICE HARDY SPRING FLOWERS.

The taste for hardy spring flowers is developing more rapidly than the
taste for any other class of hardy flowers. The reasons for this are ob-
vious. There is no difficulty experienced in keeping the garden well
stocked with flowers during summer and autumn by means of either
hardy or tender plants, but in spring we must fall back on the good old-
fashioned floral gems of the season, if we would have any delight in our
gardens at all during the cold months of spring. To assist in the cul-
tivation of the growing taste for these early flowers, I would venture
on making a selection of the best of the earlier and later species and
varieties, including only such as are most beautiful and easy to manage
in any garden.

Adonis vernalis. — This is the best of the genus to which it belongs.
It grows to the height of about 1 foot — the stems being clothed with
finely-cut leaves, and terminating in large, bright-yellow flowers, which
open in March and April in ordinary seasons, but this season they are
fully a month later than usual. A. ape?mina, a closely related form, if
not a mere variety, begins to flower as vernalis ceases, and is therefore
useful in prolonging the period of flowering in collections that are large
enough to admit of two such closely related plants of almost identical
features and colour.

214 THE GARDENER. [May

Anemone apennina is one of the most beautiful of spring flowers.
It rises to tbe height of about G inches, including the flowers, which
are a bright blue. It flowers sometimes as early as February, but only
in mild seasons and in warm localities ; more generally it appears in
March. A fine companion to it is A, nemorosa, the white Wood Anem-
one, the double form of which is an excellent subject to grow largely
for cut flowers, as it stands well when cut.

A. fulgens cannot be surpassed for the brilliancy of its large starry
flowers of dazzling crimson. As with most Anemones, the flowers are
most profuse ; and the plant thrives so generally well in gardens that
it should become a popular favourite — indeed no garden should be.
without a few of it. The Poppy Anemone, A. coronaria and the
varieties, A. hortensis, the Garden A., are also indispensable, while they
are also the most easily cultivated of all spring flowers. A. pavonina
(bright-red), A. ]ndsatilla (purple), and A. sylvestris (white), are each
beautiful, distinct, and worthy of attention where there is room for
variety ; but if only two or three may be grown, I would recommend
fulgens, apennina, hortensis, coronaria, and nemorosa pleno as being the
cream of the lot for spring flowering.

Caitha palustris. — The double form of this is not one of the earliest
of our spring flowers. Still in ordinary seasons it begins to open its fine
golden-yellow flowers in April, and continues to display them during
the following two or three months. It is a very gay if a somewhat
common-looking plant, and is worthy of a place in every garden where
gaiety is desired.

Eranthis hyemalis, the Winter Aconite — one of the most common of
spring flowers, and one of the earliest to appear. It is no unusual
thing to see it pushing its flowers and leaves through the melting snow
in February. It thrives everywhere — even in the smoky atmosphere
of towns — and is therefore most valuable as a town garden-plant.

The Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger) is too well known and ad-
mired to require recommendation. Some forms of it flower very early
in the year, often in mild seasons throwing up flowers in November
and December. Others, such as the variety called major, are some-
what later, while the flowers are larger and more beautiful in colour ;
but all are worthy of culture, and should be grown largely where con-
siderable demand is made for cut flowers during the winter months.
A few plants lifted and put in a cold frame before winter sets in will
yield a fine crop of purely-coloured flowers, which are apt to be draggled
and soiled when left to the full exposure of the weather.

Hepatica triloba. — All of these are worth growing more abundantly
than they are. They are profuse and bright, and very early flowers.
Only three colours are given by them — red, white, and blue. There
are double forms of the first and last, and a double white is mentioned
in books as having been in cultivation, but it no longer exists in gar-
dens, if ever it did — although some_aver that they have met with it in

1879.] CHOICE HARDY SPRING FLOWERS. 215

this generation. The doable blue occasionally throws up a few dirty-
white flowers in autumn, which, so far as I can trace, appears to be the
only ground that can be given for the alleged existence of the variety,
in recent times at least. H. angulosa is a very fine and distinct
species, differing from the triloba varieties in having larger flowers and
foliage.

Sanguinaria canadensis. — A very pretty and interesting plant, alike
in flowers and leaves. The flowers, like those of nearly every member
of the natural order to which it belongs (Pa]?averacece), are fugaceous.
They are white, with a tint of pink suffusing the petals. The plant
likes a moderately shady position, but otherwise is most easily accom-
modated both as regards soil and situation, adapting itself well to
almost every variety of soil. The flowers appear in March and April.

Alyssum saxatile. — A most beautiful and profuse-blooming plant,
with persistent, somewhat hoary leaves and close decumbent habit,
clothing itself with numerous clusters of small but innumerable bright
golden-yellow flowers in April and the two succeeding months. There
are several varieties, the best being either A. s. compactum or A. s. gem-
onense. The former is the best adapted for the purposes of spring
bedding.

Arabis albida and A. alpina are very profuse and showy white-
flowering Rock Cresses, flowering in April, or earlier, according to the
nature of the weather. They are closely matted in growth, and the
flower-stems rarely exceed in the largest — which is the first named —
more than 9 inches in height. They are plants requiring the simplest
attentions in the matter of cultivation ; but one point requisite to their
being grown to perfection is, that they should be renewed annually,
either by cuttings or division. When left to grow at will year after
year, they become weak and patchy.

Aubrietia. — Of this there are a good many varieties, differing more
or less in the size of the flowers, but all beautiful and very profuse-
flowering plants. Purple is the universal colour, in one shade or
another. They are excellent town-garden plants, and are among the
very best for spring-bedding, being very hardy, and yielding a long
succession of flowers during the months of March, April, and May.

Cheiranthus alpinus and C. Marshallii are the gems of this family,
as regards their beauty and neatness of habit. The latter is the
strongest flower of the two, rising to the height of about 9 inches ;
while the former, a little less in height, is also less effective and warm
in colour, being pale yellow — the latter golden or orange yellow.

Iberis. — There are five or six species of this genus well worth grow-
ing where spring flowers are in demand. They are not the earliest to
flower, yet some of them open their flowers in April, and continue to
display them for a couple of months. The best are /. corifolia, a very
dwarf and compact one, growing about 6 inches high; /. Garrexiana,
about 9 inches high ; and /. gibraltarica, about the same height as the

Q

21G THE GARDENER. [May

last. All are white flowered. The two first named begin to flower in
April, the last in May.

Viola odorata. — In a selection of this kind the universal favourite
cannot be omitted ; for although not of any use for the mere decora-
tion of the flower-garden, it is indispensable among spring flowers on
account of its delicious fragrance. There are numerous varieties, but
the Czar, the Giant, and Queen Victoria, being larger flowered than
most of the others, are best worth growing : their flower-stalks are stout
and long in proportion to their flowers, and therefore so much better
for cutting and making up when cut.

Orobus vernus. — A very beautiful plant, growing to the height of
about 1 foot, compact and neat. The flowers are bright purple-red,
and very profuse, appearing in April and May.

Oxytropis uralensis. — A very neat and compact plant, with pretty,
silky, grey leaves, growing only a few inches high, and bearing numer-
ous racemes of bright purple flowers in May.

Saxifraga crassifolia. — A rather large and coarse-leaved plant, but
very free-flowering ; and as the flowers last well when cut, it is well
worth growing where cut flowers are in demand in spring. S. hypnoides;
one of the mossy section of this valuable genus, closely carpeting the
ground with bright verdure throughout the year, and clothing itself
with bright, large white flowers during April and May. S. oppositi-
folia : this is one of the prettiest, as it is one of the earliest, of spring
flowers. The flowers are large, bright rosy-purple, and there is a
fine white companion variety, both of which should be in every
garden where spring flowers are desired. In early seasons the flowers
open in February, but more generally in March, and last well through
April.

Aster alpinus. — A very neat growing plant of about 9 inches in
height, with large purplish-blue flowers, which, along with its white-
flowered variety, should be in every garden. It begins to bloom in
May, and lasts for several months.

Daisies, in all their variety and profusion of flower, cannot be
omitted from a list of spring flowers of the most ornamental character ;
they are indispensable to the spring-flower gardener.

Doronicum caucasicum.— A very gay plant, with large, bright yellow
flowers, growing about 9 inches high, which open in May, and con-
tinue for about six weeks.

Erica carnea. — One of the earliest and best of this fine family, grow-
ing only a few inches high. It may often be seen in flower in early
winter in mild seasons; and if the weather is favourable, it continues to
flower till June. The flowers are rose, purplish, or white, according to
the particular variety, of which there are several. E. australis and E.
mediterranea are early-flowering sorts which are also valuable in the
spring months.

Vinca major and V. minor are very pretty and free-blooming plants

1879.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 217

for rockwork, and for the front lines of shrubbery borders. They open
their flowers in April and May.

Gentiana acaulis. — The Gentianella is a very familiar plant to most
readers, and is one of the most beautiful of spring flowers. G. verna,
with its flowers appearing in April, is one of the choicest gems of
spring. It is a tiny plant, by no means easy to cultivate, except in
deep, cool, moist, rich loam ; but wherever it will succeed, it should
have a place. The flowers are a deep gentian blue.

Phlox canadensis. — This grows to the height of about 1 foot. The
flowers are purplish-lilac, in compact panicles : they are very profuse, and
open in April and May. P. frondosa is a neat, compact, trailing plant
with pink-coloured flowers. P. reptans flowers in April and May, the
flowers being large, numerous, and reddish-purple. P. setacea is a
pale pink-flowered sort, the flowers of which appear about the same
time as the above ; and there is a pretty white-flowered variety of it
named nivalis. P. subulata, also with pink flowers, and P. Nelsonii, a
very fine white-flowered sort, are also valuable spring flowers.

Myosotis dissitiflora and M. sylvatica are beautiful spring-flower-
ing Forget-me-nots which are largely used in spring-bedding, and which
are indispensable.

Omphalodes verna — having the flowers of a Forget-me-not both in
regard of form and colour, but quite distinct leaves and habit of growth
— is very beautiful throughout March and April.

Physochlaina grandiflora and P. orientalis— the former with pale
yellow, the latter with deep purple flowers — are both excellent plants,
growing about 1 foot high. Both flower in April and May.

Wm. Sutherland.

Craigleith Nursery, Edinburgh.

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

THE FUCHSIA.

The Fuchsia, like the Pelargonium, may be called everybody's flower.
Cottagers of every degree who have any love for flowers always endea-
vour to have a Fuchsia or two. We have seen them in cottagers' win-
dows grown in all kinds of substitutes for flower-pots — old tea-pots,
jam-pots, jugs, and preserved-meat tins. Sometimes the growers were
rewarded with a few flowers, but very often had to be content with a
few sickly-looking leaves. On the other hand, we have seen specimens
grown and flowered in cottage windows that would have done no
discredit to gardeners having every means of growing them at their
command. Unless large specimen plants are wanted, it is not desir-
able to retain many old plants over the winter, at least for the

218 THE GARDENER. [May

purpose of greenhouse decoration ; but many gardeners retain the
whole of their old plants, and find accommodation for them in the
flower-garden the following season, where they generally make a very
effective display for centres of beds, or dotted along ribbon -borders.

A plant or two of each variety should be introduced into heat
early in January, from which to get a stock of cuttings. As soon as
the young shoots have attained to a sufficient size the cuttings may
be taken off. Have some pots ready prepared, well drained, three-
parts filled up with soil, and the remainder with sharp sand. The
pots may be either of a size suitable for each variety, or large enough
to contain two or more varieties, keeping them carefully labelled.
Water them after being inserted, and plunge the pots up to the rim
in a hotbed or propagating-pit. In about a fortnight they will be
nicely rooted, and ready for potting off. They should be potted
singly in 3 -inch pots, using good fibry loam, leaf- mould, and a
good sprinkling of sand to keep it open. One piece of crock over the
hole will be sufficient for pots of this size. When potted, return
them to the warm pit, hotbed, or vinery, where they may enjoy a
temperature of 65° or so. It may be necessary to shade them
slightly for a few days at first until they begin to root in the new
soil. And now the mode of training must be decided upon. If they are
wanted for pyramids or standards, the leader must be encouraged,
and kept tied up to a stake. If intended for a standard, the side
shoots may be rubbed off as they appear, until the desired height be
attained, when the point may be pinched out, and the formation of
the head begun. If, on the other hand, pyramids be aimed at, the
leader must also be kept staked up and side shoots encouraged, pinch-
ing the points occasionally to induce a bushy habit. Some of them
however should be grown as dwarfs, and these should have the leader
pinched when about 6 inches high, and the lateral shoots also as they
require it.

They must be shifted into larger pots when the roots penetrate
through the ball and reach the sides of the pot : 6-inch pots may be
used for this shift, or a few of the stronger plants may be put into
8-inch pots. The compost for this shift may be of a rougher nature,
and have the addition of some well-rotted dung mixed with it, as also
a layer over the crocks. In potting, ram the soil moderately firm
round about the ball. If potted loosely they never thrive well ; the
soil acts like a sponge in retaining too much water, which soon sours
it. The plants must still be kept in heat, and unless wanted to
bloom early, the flowers should be picked off as they appear. If
large plants are wanted, they must be encouraged by further shifting
into larger pots, and by August good large specimens may be grown.

1879.] HARDY FRUITS. 219

A batch of cuttings may be put in six weeks or so later, to grow on
for later flowering, and treated in all respects like the others. About
the month of June they may be put into a cooler house, or even into
cold pits, but kept away from cold draughts.

The old plants will come in nicely for early flowering, if after the
cuttings are taken off they be partially shaken out and repotted into
fresh soil, and will come in very useful in April or May, when the
spring bulbs are past. The following list of a dozen varieties may be
pretty well relied on as satisfactory, viz. — Admiration, Avalanche,
Coma, Mrs Ballantyne, Arabella, Princess Beatrice, Marksman, Lord
Beaconslield, Noblesse, Commander, Rose of Castile, Starlight.

J. G. W.

HARDY FRUITS.

The present month is generally a period of much anxiety among fruit-
growers, especially to those who make it a business and who in a great
measure depend on the crops for their living. In this vast fruit-grow-
ing district it is a matter of great moment to have a fine fruit-crop.
The present season, being a month later than what we have experienced
for some years past, gives a substantial hope of abundance ; and it is
hardly possible that the trees could be heavier loaded with fruit-buds ;
but such promise is not very desirable with trees which are weakly and
exhausted ; a heavy clothing of blossom often meaning a great portion
of the embryo fruit perishing. The finely-ripened wood and lateness
are, however, much in favour of plenty. Where trees are under careful
manipulation as regards thinning, their chances are two to one against
the slovenly matted system not uncommon with the " penny-wise "
cultivators. We have had some favourable opportunities of noticing
what may be expected from the tree this year. Taking a ride south-
ward through the Evesham district, and some others, where fruit and
vegetable growing are on an extensive scale, the former could not look
more promising, while the latter never looked more wretched ; and the
cold easterly winds and falling snow as at present (April 12th) do
not give " sweet solace " to market-growers of vegetables. With our-
selves there is not much to complain of, beyond the loss of about 2000
Broccolis and the extreme lateness of growth. Frost about 6° to 7°
each night at present, I fear, will cripple the Pear buds, especially those
kinds which open early. Trees on walls may be protected in a measure,
but standards, pyramids, and bushes in the open gardens and orchards
can have little done for them.

During May there is such a pressure of work in gardens, that the
disbudding of trees and general attention they require are overlooked
and postponed. To be successful with fruits (as indeed with most other
cultural matters), the adage, " delays are dangerous," must have

220 THE GARDENER. [May

full consideration, especially where insects take up their summer
quarters. These pests should have "prevention" in practice against them
previous to the fruit-buds opening. The wall trees, or trees in orchards,
<fcc, if they can be managed so, may be gone over with a liquid, such
as Gishurst's compound, which is known to be destructive to them, and
which should be syringed lightly over the surfaces. Walls that have
long been subject to the barbarous method of " nailing ;' and " unnail-
ing " are always good retreats for insect life, and they ought to have
extra attention in keeping vermin from increasing in them. Soft soap
(about half-a-pound or so to a gallon of water), with a quantity of
tobacco juice to well colour it, will keep them in check, but it must
be used as a " preventive," as, when the black or green aphis get into
the developing foliage, they are soon shielded from all washes and liquid
poisons, and remain curled up in the leaves till their work of destruc-
tion is completed. Newly-planted trees should be secure against wind
and drought. Mulching, if not attended to before, should be done with-
out delay. Watering may be necessary on dry sandy soils and in dry
positions, but the practice is not to be put in force when it can be
avoided. Pond water, or that which has been exposed to sun and air,
should be used when it can be had. For appearance' sake a little clean
soil may be thrown over mulching, leaving the surface somewhat flat
to receive rain.

Disbudding may now require careful attention. The system of doing-
it all at once and "done with it " is worse than not doing it at all, espe-
cially if the weather should be warm during the day and followed by
frost or cold winds at night : fruit and trees suffer alike under such bar-
barous treatment. Apples, as dwarfs or espaliers, may be gone over,
and any shoots taking the lead, at same time robbing other parts of the
tree, may be nipped back or rubbed off. The newly-planted trees are
better in every way when their growths are regulated in summer and
the future main shoots decided on. Quantity of shoots is not the point
to be aimed at, but those well placed at equal distances from each
other, and plenty of room to develop the foliage and allow the fruits
to have sun and air. To have finely-trained espalier Apples the shoots
should be trained as they grow, securing those best placed, keeping
them straight and equal in distance from each other. The same applies
to Pears ; those on walls require very frequent attention. If the lower
buds are suffering from the advantage taken by the " leaders," the latter
ought to be stopped so that the former may improve themselves.
Branches trained too thickly, spurs allowed to become matted and
densely crowded, are common evils among Pears, and the trees thus cast
their fruit-buds or refuse to swell fruit if they should set. Apricots
will now be swelling where they have set freely, and careful disbud-
ding of the trees is necessary, so that the fruit may not be unduly ex-
posed to the inclemency of the weather. Much severe frost, hail, and
cold rains may be experienced during May. Commence by rubbing off

1879.] HARDY FRUITS. 221

the shoots growing straight from the tree, and stopping those which
are taking too much of the lead. Apricots are very impatient of the
knife, and should have little pruning left to be performed during winter.
This and a thoroughly firm soil composed largely of lime are
two items very conducive to keeping Apricot trees in health ; late ripen-
ing of wood and much winter cutting are evils which strongly lead to
canker taking place with these trees. Cherries are best treated on the
spur system ; they can be trained into any form, but, like Apricots,
they must have the greater part of the necessary pruning done during
the growing season. Morello Cherries are tbest when much left to
themselves, kept carefully from crowding, and the knife used only as
a necessary evil. Peaches and Nectarines must be disbudded with
much caution, as the present crop as well as the future health of the
tree may be much impaired by wholesale stripping. The trees and
crop are by no means safe from severe weather — sharp weather may
yet be expected — the foliage is nature's covering, and it is quite
necessary that it should not be unduly removed. First remove
any out-growing shoots clean from the trees, looking carefully for
any leaders which may be robbing the tree \ stop them before they
grow much — this will speedily equalise the growth, without checking
the trees ; choose the shoots which are to form the bearing wood of
next year ; they should be from the base of the old shoots, and closely
laid in. When they are tied straight and neatly now they are more
easily managed at the winter pruning. A little done often to the trees
is conducive to success, and one who is experienced in the work can go
over a great space in one day.

Figs now being uncovered and tied to their places will show what
fruit they are likely to produce. The greatest evil we see with respect
to these in three-fourths of cases is the persistence in crowding them to
the walls ; some may be seen plaited and twisted like hedges. Where
such is in practice it is no wonder that thin crops on the ends of some
shoots which have been liberated are the only fruit seen in five seasons
out of six. Whether Figs are spurred, or an annual replacing of wood is
the system on which they are grown, signifies little, but it is certain that
in either case they will not succeed when crowded on the walls. A neigh-
bour who grows immense quantities in orchard-houses prunes annually
as he does his Black Currants, leaving the trees open in centres, and
otherwise well thinned. The quantity of Figs which this cultivator
gets annually on walls is enormous ; and it is there, especially under
glass, that the finest Figs in the country are had. We prefer the
practice between spurs and young wood annually laid in and
cut out, but indeed these shoots are so short and stiff that they are
little else than spurs, and always bear abundantly. All should be
kept close to the wall, neat and orderly, and when at any time the trees
take to growing excessively, careful examination of the roots will show
that some are going down into colder soil. These may be removed and

222 THE ARDENER. [May

a mixture of bones, brick-rubbish, and soil rammed firmly underneath
the roots ; fibre will then be plentiful, and there will be no fear of
plenty of fruit. If shoots start freely into growth and no fruit attached
to their base, they may be rubbed off to let them break further back,
and some dormant buds may push fruit. It is always of importance to
keep the trees close to the walls when they are planted, with the view of
being benefited by the bricks and mortar. In some warm southern
districts Figs are treated more like orchard trees, and allowed to grow
as they like. We have seen this answer well in Sussex and in the Isle
of Wight, but it would be folly to try it in northern districts. In
gardens this has a slovenly appearance. Stopping of Figs induces
fruitfulness : the top pressed at every fourth leaf gives sturdy fruit-
bearing wood.

Currants and Gooseberries may require stopping of leading shoots.
Though these are generally left to themselves, a little care, especially
with young vigorous bushes, amply repays the little labour expended.
The centres thinned out a little to shape the bushes, and leaders pre-
vented from robbing the other portions of the bushes, are their chief
wants in summer pruning. The same applies to those against fences.
Caterpillar may be seen on Gooseberries, and should be either hand-
picked or dusted with white Hellebore powder while the bushes are
damp : the powder mixed with water and syringed over the bushes
answers well. Strawberries may be planted from the stock which have
been forced, or from the store beds. The plants made firm at root and
well watered will give little trouble afterwards.

In the orchard house, stopping and thinning of shoots, gradual thin-
ning of fruit, careful watering and syringing, increasing the supply of
air as the season gets warmer, fumigating and dusting with tobacco
powder to prevent insects establishing themselves, are the chief wants
in this department. M. T.

ASTILBE JAPONIC A.
(hoteia.)

No gardener who has a demand for decorative plants and cut-flowers
throughout the early spring months should be without a good stock of
this hardy plant. It is so easily forced, flowers so freely, and the blooms
stand so long, either when cut or on the plant, that it is simply invalu-
able. When a large stock of it is at command, a few plants should be in-
troduced to a warm house, such as a vinery, when forcing commences,
and small batches should be introduced in succession, as occasion re-
quires, from January onwards. They luxuriate in a warm, moist at-
mosphere, with a plentiful supply of water at the roots ; indeed it is
scarcely possible to injure them with too much water, when growth
is fairly started \ it is, therefore, good practice to keep the pots stand-

1879.] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 223

ing in saucers or " flats " full of water, giving them weak liquid every
alternate watering. Directly the majority of the spikes begin to open
their lowermost flowers, the plants should be removed to a cooler and
more airy house — they will thereby be better prepared for the dry air
of the sitting-rooms, &c, for which they are so extremely well adapted.
When the season is well advanced, the late batches will come on quite
well in the greenhouse with sun-heat.

As soon as the earliest batches have finished flowering, they should be
grown on in a warm house till about the end of May, when they can be
gradually hardened off and planted out in the open border, or shifted
into larger-sized pots, and plunged, choosing a warm, sunny position, so
that the plants can have all the sun available for the maturing of the
crowns. The stock can be increased when desired, by breaking up the
largest plants into small bits, and planting them out in rich soil com-
posed of loam and dung in equal parts, in rows 2 feet apart and 18
inches in the row ; those in pots should also be plunged in the same
compost, and liberally supplied with water, with a little guano or other
good fertiliser mixed with it, when dry weather prevails.

As soon as the foliage decays in the autumn, the requisite number of
plants should be lifted and potted, and placed in the orchard-house or
cold frame — in fact, any outhouse wil] do where they can be kept cool,
moist, and free from frost, so that the plants can be got at when wanted
for the forcing-house. Some gardeners are in the habit of potting them
as required, but we prefer to get them all under cover in the autumn,
about the month of October ; and at this potting it is necessary to re-
duce the balls of those plants which are not in pots, so that pretty large
crowns can be easily got into such as 5 or 6 inch pots, which we find
most useful for general purposes.

DUNDONIA.

THE GARDENER'S PRIMER.

NO. II.

All plants may be said to have had a natural habitat originally de-
termined for them at the different geological epochs of time at which
vegetation in some form or other may be supposed to have com-
menced, but the secondary causes which now determine the habitat
of plants may be briefly stated to be : The chemical nature of the soil
in which they are found — some plants delight in siliceous soil ; others
in calcareous, or limestone, or gypseous soils ; other plants again pre-
fer a soil impregnated with sea-salt ; others gravel or clay soil ; others
prefer to grow in the cracks of granite rocks ; and other plants appear
more accommodating than any of these in their requirements, and
seem to follow man to minister to his comfort or his luxury, and are

224 THE GARDENER. [May

indiscriminately found in any of these soils, especially if they have
been in any way decomposed or intermixed : The elevation of land
above the level of the sea, and, within certain limits, the latitude of
the countries in which they are found, where the daily average annual
amount of sun-heat during the season of growth of plants is above
the degree of heat necessary first to start them into growth, and
sufficient to enable them to complete their full growth, and which in
the case of annual plants must necessarily be above freezing-point, or
they could not germinate: The relative situation of islands to contin-
ents or mainland : The presence of vast tracts of land covered with
fresh or salt water, and the currents in the latter : The state of the
atmosphere, its dryness or moisture, its currents of wind, its chemical
composition — some plants delight in an atmosphere charged with
chloride of sodium or sea-salt which would be destroyed by an
application of such salt to their roots : The amount of sunlight, often
as important as sun-heat, and, in fact, as we approach the poles, re-
placing its want : The power of the chemical or actinic rays of the
sun : The inherent vital power in the plant itself to resist destructive
agencies. Upon some or other of the above or similar secondary
causes, with here and there anomalous exceptions, the habitat of
plants may be said to depend.

AVe must now proceed to the main part of our subject — the plant
— and try to elucidate some of its characteristics.

Each plant is an aggregation of cells ; each cell consists of a little
transparent spherical sac or globe ; the outer membrane enclosing it is
made of cellulose, which, by the by, is insoluble in water, containing
in it liquid or viscid granular matter, sometimes called the primor-
dial utricle, or protoplasm, made of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and
nitrogen, and some sulphur and phosphorus ; and within the proto-
plasm is a nucleus. These cells grow either by internal or external
growth, or by division of the cell into two cells (by plant growth
is meant either formation of new cells, or increase of cells al-
ready made, or thickening of cell walls). Each cell nourishes
another cell ; and where there is no pressure the spherical or globe
shape will remain ; but where there is pressure this appearance is
soon lost sight of, and it then assumes various forms and shapes, and
is called cellular tissue. The outer covering of all plants is called the
epidermis, and is in reality cellular tissue. As a consequence of cell
growth, each plant has the power of reparation of injuries done to it.

Eor convenience of classification, each plant will be found to belong
to some collection of plants called a species, supposed to have had,
in monoecious plants, a common ancestor, or in dioecious plants, a
pair of ancestors ; and each species will belong to a group of one or

i879-] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 225

more species called a genus (or genera, in plural), and each genus not
less permanent or distinct than the different species included in it.

Each genus, in like manner, will be found to have been grouped
with other genera, and then placed in a family, as a natural order is
called ; and each family in its turn will again have to be arranged
into one or other of the following four great classes : First, Dicoty-
ledonous plants — that is, plants whose seed is furnished with two
cotyledons, or seed-lobes : by far the larger number of species of
flowering-plants belong to families of this class, and from the struc-
ture of their stems they are also called Exogenous. Second, Mono-
cotyledonous plants — that is, plants whose seed is furnished with only
one cotyledon, or at least only one is apparent, and from the struc-
ture of their stems they are called Endogenous. Third, Polycotyle-
donous plants, with three or more cotyledons, of which the family of
Coniferae or Eir tribe and Palms are good examples ; and, Fourth,
Acotyledonous plants — that is, plants whose seeds or spores have no
cotyledons, of which Eerns, Mosses, and Eungi are good examples,
and from the structure of their stems they are called Acrogenous.
Our remarks are applicable for the most part only to plants belong-
ing to the first and second of these great classes.

Each plant is named with its generic and specific name, generally
in Latin or Greek. Many of the specific names have been chosen ac-
cording to the characters of parts of the plant, such as the leaf, as
serrata, dentata, salicifolia ; or according to their local situations or
habitat, such as, arvense, pratense, nemorosum, sylvaticum, aquatica,
rupestre, or nivalis; or according to the uses or attributes of the plant,
such as somniferum ; or according to its time of flowering, as vernum,
cestivum, or autumnalis.

The origin of species has recently been the subject of much contro-
versy, and much time and labour expended to prove that the charac-
teristics of species are not of such permanent nature as to be entitled
to be regarded as the landmarks in plant classification they have
hitherto been. However this may be, it will be well to bear in mind
that whatever may be the final result of these inquiries, and which
really do no harm, it will be always necessary to make use of specific
descriptions of the characteristics of plants in order to render them in-
telligible, and to arrive at accurate views of Geographic Botany.

Each plant has, for the purpose of holding it in its place, and for
obtaining nourishment and for storing it up sometimes, as in bien-
nial plants, a root or descending axis, or earth end, or alkali ex-
tremity, formed at the end of the embryo, but in connection or con-
tinuation with the stem, and from which numerous root -fibres,
covered with fine hair-like roots — in reality elongations of cells in the

226 THE GARDENER. [May

epidermis or outer covering of the root-fibre. Eich plant, in like
manner, has a stem or ascending axis in connection or continuation
with the root, the plumule (of which more hereafter), elongated, with
leaves and buds on it, sometimes called the air end, or stem fabric of
the plant. Where the root ends and the stem begins in the full-
grown plant, or in the seed after germination where the radicle
ends and the plumule begins, there is situate what is called the neck
(collum, in Latin), by gardeners " the collar." It is a guide in plant-
ing trees by which the danger may be avoided either of planting too
deeply beneath the surface of the soil, and which would therefore be
burying part of the stem, or of leaving it too much exposed above
the surface, so that the cold of winter might injure and destroy the
plant; it is a very sensitive part, and easily injured by the spade or
by the foot in the operation of treading.

Each plant, not a monocotyledonous one, at its earliest growth,
will have a simple root, called a tap-root, from which other rootlets,
called root-fibres, branch off; the length of this tap-root depends on
the physical nature of the soil and its resistance to downward
growth. In seedling fruit-trees in their early life it should be cut
off to encourage root -fibres, so that they may be more easily
transplanted, and be encouraged to produce their roots nearer the
surface of the ground, where they will be more accessible to the sun's
rays and the gardener's spade than they would be if buried deeply
beneath the surface of the soil.

The following are some of the different forms of roots : the tap-root,
as in Carrot ; the fusiform root, as in Radish ; the napiform root, as in
Turnip ; the fibrous root, as in grasses, or in plants of simple annual
growth ; the tubercular root, or tubercles, as in Orchis; the annulated or
ringed root ; the nodulose root (Drop wort), or the fasciculated tuber, as
in Dahlia ; and branched roots which become woody, such as in roots
of trees and shrubs.

DOUBLE PRIMULA SINENSIS.

Although some of the older varieties of double Chinese Primulas,
notably the old white, are common enough, they, with few exceptions,
seldom receive that amount of attention and good culture that their
intrinsic worth merits. In too many greenhouses and other places at
the present time, are they to be seen dragging out their existence,
sometimes undisturbed in the same pot for years ; while their more
showy but really less valuable relations, the single varieties, receive the
best of treatment. Even the old double varieties when well grown,
not only form very attractive plants, but are also more serviceable

1879.] DOUBLE PRIMULA SINENSIS. 227

for decorative purposes than are the singles ; of late years, however
much attention has been paid to their improvement, and the result is
a great increase in their number — all more or less superior. Mr R.
Gilbert has been particularly successful in this work, and has received
certificates for several of his varieties from the Royal Horticultural
Society. The whole stock of them has passed into the hands of the
Messrs Osborn & Sons, Fulham Nurseries, London, by whom they
will shortly be distributed. I saw them as grown and exhibited
by Mr Gilbert, also growing and flowering in the above Nurseries,
and in both instances was much struck with the very marked im-
provement effected, both with regard to the size and beauty of the
trusses and blooms, and also in their evident robustness. The best
white -flowering variety among them is the White Lady; and the
Princess, white, slightly blotched with red ; Marchioness of Exeter,
white, spotted with pink (a fine flower) ; Mrs A. F. Barron, blush,
slightly striped with red ; and the Earl of Beaconsfield, a good crim-
son,— are all really sterling novelties.

Double Primulas are decidedly the most serviceable as cut-blooms,
as they travel well. Individual blooms are largely used in bouquets,
&c, but do not, I am bound to admit, always keep quite so fresh as
one would wish ; but from what I have seen of the newer varieties,
they, in all probability, will keep better — the flowers being of a
greater substance. The plants are propagated by division soon after
blooming time; the offshoots with a heel attached being placed
singly into small 60-pots, steadied — that is, lightly tied to small
stakes, and placed in a moderately brisk, but not too moist tempera-
ture, till rooted. The soil used is about equal parts of fibry loam,
and either peat or leaf-mould, with a good addition of silver sand and
charcoal. When repotting, less peat or leaf-mould may be used, and
a little thoroughly-rotten dung substituted. A good place to grow them
in is on the back shelf of a stove, as they require heat till well es-
tablished ; after which, the temperature of an intermediate house is
the most suitable for maturing their growth and afterwards for
properly developing the bloom. Avoid large shifts when potting,
and use clean and well-drained pots — the 5-inch is a very serviceable
size. Many off-sets rot in the striking-pots from- being put in too
deep ; and deep potting, deficient drainage, and careless watering,
kills many that have survived that critical period. Doubtless they
are sometimes well grown in cold frames, &c. treated similar to the
single varieties, but more often not ; and possibly for this reason are
discarded, as being either too difficult or else not worth the trouble
to grow. Where the cool treatment has failed, try what a little heat
will do. W. Iggulden.

228 THE GARDENER. [May

THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN.

CELERY AND SALADS GENERALLY.

Celery — Preparing the Trenches. — To grow Celery to perfection, rich soil is essen-
tial. Indeed Celery grows best in decayed manure, a year old or so. It is
generally grown in trenches or beds sunk below the surface, by taking out the
soil and building it neatly on either side of the trench, — the earth thus stored
up to be used for blanching the plants after they have grown sufficiently. It
is best to prepare the trenches only a short time before planting ; because
in spring the frosts cause much of the earth to fall in, and part of the work
has to be done over again. Particular care must be taken to beat the earth
firmly on either side to prevent its falling back into the trenches again hy
the action of the weather. Some prefer single trenches ; others prefer
" beds." We will describe both methods. Single trenches are made 1 foot
8 inches wide and 1 foot deep. When more trenches than one are required,
allow 3 feet between them. In forming them, run the line along each side of
the trenches, and cut close down the inside of the line the full depth of the
spade. In throwing the earth out, keep it close by the side of the trench.
Cut the trench perpendicularly, and slope off the loose earth at an angle of
45° or so, beating it neatly, so that it may keep its place. Do not lay it down
to a greater depth than 6 or 8 inches, and make it flat on the top, as it will
do for growing small Salads on. The spaces between the trenches are to be
piled up with earth in the same way. Break the earth fine, and smooth it
over nicely. Lettuce, Radishes, Mustard and Cress, &c, may be sown on the
ridges, and they will all be removed before the earth is required for blanch-
ing the Celery. After the trenches are dug they will require manuring,
and there is nothing better than well-decayed stable-yard manure. Put 6
inches of this in the bottom of the trench, and if the soil be heavy and wet, an
inch of sand. But in heavy wet soils it is best to make very shallow trenches
and fill them to the brim with a compost of manure and some light soil, or a
little sand, if light earth cannot be got. Of course the earth for blanching has
to be dug from the sides, but this leaves deep drains, and the Celery is then
raised on ridges, which is in its favour in heavy or wet ground. In ordinary
soil, after the manure is in the trench, mix it with some of the soil in the
bottom of the trench, and leave until planting time. Such trenches, in light
dry soils, favour the retention of moisture about the roots of the plants, and
moisture they must have or they will not grow satisfactorily, Celery being a
native of damp situations. At the same time too much wet, in winter especi-
ally, rots it, and hence the reason for planting on the surface on heavy wet
soils. The " bed " system of growing is merely an extension of the trench,
and is a good enough plan in light dry soils, especially when the crop is to be
cleared off early in autumn; but as it presents a wider, flatter surface, the
rain is not thrown off as in the trench system, and hence Celery is more liable
to rot than in beds. Beds generally contaiu four rows of Celery, while
trenches as a rule contain one, and seldom more than two ; and in earthing
up those in trenches, if the heads of the Celery are inclined slightly inwards,
the earth which is used to blanch them may be built so as to present a thin
ridge top, which helps to keep the plants and soil drier than in the case of
beds. Frequently only one row is planted in the trench, but we prefer two,
as double the quantity is produced with only a little more room, labour, and
manure. The chief recommendation which can be given to the bed system is

1879.] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 229

that greater quantities can be grown in small space ; but it often happens that
there is room for a trench in small gardens when there is not for a bed;
and when the sides are utilised for growing small Salads, not an inch of
ground is wasted.

Preparing the Plants. — The best way of raising Celery plants is by means of
a slight hot-bed; and should the amateur possess one for striking cuttings
and raising half-hardy annuals in March and April, space may be spared for
holding a small seed-pan, for a very small space will raise a large number of
plants while they are in the seedling state. For soil use one half well-decayed
manure, and the other half light loam. Drain well the seed pan or pot in
which they are to be sown ; use the surface soil in a fine state ; sow thinly,
and cover very lightly. A piece of brown paper over the pot, &c, will prevent
evaporation, but this must be removed the moment the seedlings appear.
Keep the pots near the glass, and where they will get fresh air, in order to
make them as sturdy as possible. Never allow them to suffer for want of
water ; and indeed take care that they receive no check, or they may become
stunted and useless. When they are in the rough leaf, they must be " pricked
out " or transplanted into boxes at from 3 to 4 inches apart, using rich soil,
such as we have recommended for sowing. Use the soil in a moist but
not wet state ; and after they are pricked out, give a gentle watering through
a fine rose. Put them back in the frame, and shade slightly for a few days,
should the weather be bright and hot. When quantities are grown, the usual
and best practice is to put down 3 or 4 inches of well-decayed manure on a hard
bottom, covering it with 2 inches of light soil, and to prick out the plants on
this, and, if possible, covering them with glass lights until they are strong
enough for the trenches or beds. When this takes place, the plants move with
nice balls of the rotten manure, and receive but a very slight check, scarcely
a root being sacrificed. But in most cases those for whom we write do not
require such quantities as would necessitate the use of a whole light. More-
over, the plants come out of ordinary cutting-boxes almost as safely as from
a bed or frame. Those who have nothing beyond a greenhouse or a cold frame
can raise the plants in these, or even under a common hand-glass in a sunny
sheltered place out of doors ; but plants raised by these means will be later,
and the produce scarcely so good, although with good management in favoured
localities very fine Celery is raised without the aid of glass at all.

Planting out. — In planting out choose a dull, showery time, if possible;
otherwise do it in the evening, and shade during the day until the plants have
fairly started, always watering liberal^. Lift and plant the plants with a
trowel, and if planted two rows in a trench, place them thus .•.*.*.•
a foot apart. In watering them during summer, give occasional doses of
manure-water, made with guano, at about the rate of half an ounce to the
gallon of water, or stable-drainings diluted with five times its bulk of water,
or well-diluted sewage, &c. ; this will aid its progress greatly.

Earthing up or Blanching. — This requires to be done early in autumn, four
or five weeks before the Celery is wanted for use ; but later in autumn more time
is required for blanching. Gardeners who have to make the supply stretch over
as great a length of time as possible, raise their first batch early in February,
and nurse it on in heat in pots or boxes, and by this means have strong plants
put out in May ; this is ready for blanching by the end of July, and fit for
the table by the end of August. Successional sowings are made and treated
in the same way, until the main supply is ready. Amateurs generally grow
one lot only, and this is raised from plants sown from the middle of March to

230 THE GARDENER. [May

the middle of April. This will require earthing up partially about the middle
of September. In doing so, commence by putting a band of matting round
each plant to prevent the earth from reaching the centre of the plants. At
the same time, clear away any loose or broken outside stalks, and all suckers ;
break the soil fine with the spade or fork ; and work it in round the plants to
the depth of 3 or 4 inches. Give a little dusting of lime to the soil — this
will keep worms in check — and always choose a dry time for the operation.
If they be growing well, another and a final earthing up may be given some
time in October. If they are in double rows, incline the heads towards
the centre, so that the tops may be in one straight line. Leave as many
leaves above the soil as possible, to continue the growth of the plants.
Bearing this in mind, build the earth up as highly as possible, and make the
trench with a sharp apex, beating the sides quite firm and smooth. This will
assist in throwing off heavy rain; and it will be well to see that water has no
chance of standing in the side trenches from which the earth has been dug.
Five or six weeks after the final earthing up, the Celery will be fit for use.
During hard frost protect the trenches with mats, or straw and mats. For
flavouring soups, &c, the green tops are generally used ; and to have a supply
all through the spring for this purpose, make a sowing out of doors in May,
and transplant in the same way as Lettuce on moderately rich soil — too rich
soil causes it to grow rank, and less able to stand severe weather. After it is
transplanted it requires nothing in the way of cultivation except water when
necessary, and to be kept free from weeds. In winter part of it may be pro-
tected with mats or straw, so that it may be easily got when wanted during a
storm. Gardener.

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

I have read with very great attention the article upon "Heating by Hot
"Water," in the February No. of 'The Gardener.' If any one could invent or
discover a method by which the necessity for deep stokeholes could be avoided,
he, would unquestionably do a service of immense importance to horticulturists
and others. But I fear we must look for this somewhere else than in Mr Ham-
mond's paper, which only brings forward the ghost of an "old friend with a new
face." I do not know whether Mr Hammond is aware of the fact or not, but
would he be surprised to find that the method of setting hot-water pipes, recom-
mended by him as apparently something new and untried, has been familiar to
gardeners and hot-water engineers for a generation ! It is not the case that
' ' engineers and gardeners are agreed upon as being essential to a rapid circulation
of the water in pipes" that the boiler should be sunk "below the level of both
the flow and return pipes," and giving the pipes "a continuous ascent from the
top of the boiler to the furthest points of extension in the building or buildings
to be heated." This arrangement of the pipes is often carried out, not because
it is considered essential for the rapid circulation of the water, but because, all
things considered, it is, in most cases, the best arrangement for other reasons.
I can point to very many apparatus throughout the country where the flow-
pipe begins to descend immediately after leaving the boiler, and continues to de-
scend until it enters the bottom of the boiler as a return. But every one who
has had experience knows that, although this works fairly well where there is
only one, or at most two, houses to heat, it cannot, even were there any advan-
tages to be gained, be carried out in any extensive system. Mr Hammond has

i879-] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 231

no hesitation in saying that ' ' the circulation of the water in the pipes will be
as rapid with the bottom of the boiler one foot below the level of the return
pipes as it would be supposing the boiler was sunk several feet deeper." If by
this he means that it makes no difference to the circulation whether it is 2
feet or 4 feet from the lowest point where the return enters the boiler to the
highest point (whether this highest point is at the far end or immediately above
the boiler) of the flow-pipe, then I say, that I have no hesitation in stating that
Mr Hammond is labouring under a grievous mistake. Those having practical
experience know that, where it is practicable to place the boiler — say 10 or
12 feet below the floor upon which the pipes are laid — there is a very much
more rapid circulation than where there is only say 3 feet of difference between
the bottom of return and top of flow pipes. This result is what any one acquainted
with the motive power at work in a hot-water heating apparatus would expect.
Mr Hammond enters into this question ; but evidently it is a subject which he
has not yet mastered. It seems to me that the "primary reason " he gives " why
water circulates or moves in pipes " is just, to put it in plain language, because
water is water, a fluid, and not a solid, like iron, stone, lead, or ice. He seems
also to be of opinion that one particle of water cannot transmit its heat to an
adjoining particle, or, in other words, that water is an absolute "non-conductor."
This is an error. Water, as well as all fluids and gases, is not a good conductor ;
but it would be a serious mistake for any one to run off with the idea that it has
no power to transmit any heat by conduction. It is unnecessary to follow Mr
Hammond through his explanations of the principles upon which the water circu-
lates, but to show the utter fallacy of the idea that water circulates as rapidly in an
apparatus of (say) 4 feet mean height between its lowest and its highest points,
as in one with 10 feet, I will quote the formula of one of the greatest living
theoretical engineers, Mr Kinnear Clark, of London, who, in his splendid work,
' A Manual of Rules, Tables, and Data for Mechanical Engineers,' page 485. says,
when treating of the circulation of hot water, " The velocity of circulation is
that of a falling body, due to the difference of height of two columns of water of
equal weights of pressure on the base, and it varies on the square foot of the dif-
ference of height. The velocity may be found by the aid of Table, No. 85, page
280. The difference of height is proportional to the difference of volumes, Table
No. 109 ; and if the mean height is increased in the same proportion, the in-
crease will be the height from which the velocity is to be calculated. For ex-
ample : let the mean height be 10 feet, and the difference of average tempera-
tures of the two columns 10° F., say between 170° and 180°. The respective

volumes are as 1.0269 and 1.031, and 10 feet x ~^q9 = 10-04 feet- Then

10.04 — 10 = 04 feet the difference of height; and the velocity due to this
height is 1.61 feet per second, or 96.6 feet per minute. If the height be 20 feet,
the difference is .08 feet, for which the velocity due is 136.20 feet per minute.
In practice, of course, the velocities due are not attained, nor, at least in the
more complex forms, nearly attained. The actual velocities are in some cases
not more than a half, or even a ninth, of the velocities due to gravity. " This
quotation proves conclusively the great value of having depth of stokehole.

And, moreover, when Mr Hammond speaks of his proposal not being appli-
cable where the pipes have to "cross under outside paths," why does he leave
out of consideration inside paths ? Is it not a fact that inside paths make the
application of the method proposed impracticable as well as outside paths ? And
is it not a fact that there are only very few places where there are neither out-
side nor inside paths to contend with in the way of having to cross under them ?

R

232 THE GARDENER. [May

This being the case, of what practical value is all Mr Hammond's specious
reasoning about the particles of water rolling and tumbling down the inclined
plane, like so many boulders tumbling down the " Cumberland Screes ? " The
great mistake he falls into is in treating the question as one of pure hydraulics,
whereas it should be treated as a question of hydrodynamics. I will only notice
one other point, and that is about the back motion of the water in the flow-
pipe. He makes a great deal of this ; but he is again labouring under a very
serious mistake in assuming that this motion goes on until all the water in the
flow-pipes becomes of equal temperature. Some hot-water engineer seems to have
admitted this to Mr Hammond ; but it must have been some one who knew
very little of what he was talking about. The back-motion in the flow-pipe
must immediately cease as soon as the average temperature in the flow-pipe be-
comes higher than the average temperature in the return. The difference of
temperature between the upper part of the flow-pipe and the under part has noth-
ing to do with it, any further than that the upper strata travels faster than the
colder under strata. It is well the question should be discussed ; but I fear deep
stokeholes are a necessary evil, which must be borne with on account of pathways,
smoke-flues, and other causes.

A. D. Makenzie.
2 Grove Terrace, Edinburgh,
March 15, 1879.

THE PENTSTEMOK

I do not think the Pentstemon is quite so popular as are some other
flowers of the florist class,— at least, in looking round gardens, it is
not so conspicuous as it well might be. The fact that this flower
is liable to be destroyed in ordinarily severe winters may account for
its absence from so many gardens ; for although the dibbling in of a
sufficient number of cuttings in autumn to keep up stock may appear a
simple enough affair on paper, it may become in reality one of the
proverbial straws which break the camel's back, and, naturally, this
particular straw is not put on. Of course, nurserymen have always
plenty of young plants with which to supply customers ; but here again
the inevitable steps in, and Pentstemons are omitted from the list of
cultivated flowers. However, there are sure to be some of Flora's
wooers suing for favours with regard to this particular flower, and to
such these cultural notes may prove somewhat acceptable. The florist's
Pentstemon has been brought to a high state of perfection within the
last decade — continental as well as home cultivators contributing to
bring about this result— so that the number of really fine kinds is
somewhat perplexing in selecting sorts for a collection. I have not
found the newer sorts, as a rule, more worthy of cultivation than kinds
of older date, and, accordingly, would recommend these latter to be
drawn on in forming a collection, adding, of course, kinds of appar-
ently superior merit as occasion may present. A few select varieties
pay better in all respects than a large collection of sorts, many of
which eould be usefully relegated to obscurity. Now as to the various

1879.] HINTS ON HEATING OF FORCING-HOUSES. 233

prominent points in a cultural aspect. The Pentstemon is a free root-
producer, and requires a deeply-cultivated and well-enriched soil in
which to succeed satisfactorily. When planted, I would recommend a
spadeful and a half of rich compost to be placed underneath every
plant ; this serves as a certain producer of quick and uninterrupted
growth from the first — a main factor in the ultimate securing of good
spikes of fine bells. The month of April is quite early enough to
plant. When started freely into growth, the whole of the " breaks,"
with the exception of the main spike and, at most, four side shoots,
should be rubbed off. The central spike will of course take the lead,
and be much the finest and earliest, but under favourable conditions
the side spikes will be comparatively good — more so if the main spike
is not allowed to carry seed, but removed as soon as it gets past its
best. Providing a stake for each spike at an early stage of growth is
very important, as one of the sharp passing gales generally experienced
at the time these will be well grown may destroy the harvest of the
season's labour. When cut for exhibition or competing the spikes
should be placed with the cut ends in water without any delay, as the
flowers and foliage droop past remedying if this precaution is not
taken. At local horticultural shows the Pentstemon is commonly
shown in wretched plight, merely through want of taking the above
simple precaution. Though not hardy enough to stand out of doors
through moderately severe winters without being killed, the protection
of a cold pit is sufficient to secure safety. September is the month the
supply of cuttings for the ensuing season should be taken. Short
growths, if healthy, make the best cuttings. These are inserted in
boxes in a loamy soil, placed in a cold pit or frame, and kept close
until roots are produced. During winter and spring, when the weather
is not frosty nor windy nor rainy, the light should be kept off the
plants. During frosty weather extra protection should be given them ;
and if a continuance of frost should cause them to be frozen, the pro-
tecting material should not be removed until the plants are thawed.
Plants may be lifted and potted in autumn, to furnish cuttings in
February, which strike freely in a common dung propagating frame.

R. P. Brotherston.

HINTS ON THE HEATING OF EORCING-HOCJSES.

Before the trials of the past winter are forgotten in the warmth and
sunshine that may be expected soon, it may not be out of place to make
one or two allusions to certain matters in forcing operations, which will
have been but too lucidly demonstrated of late, unless where the most
complete and perfect appliances for forcing have been at command.

Not since the memorable winters of 1860-61, or 1866-67, have we
had anything at all approaching the severity of the past winter, either

234 THE GARDENER. [May

in the intensity of the cold or the duration of the storm — to say nothing
of the grim fogs, which were so dense in our district as to render it a
difficulty at times to discern the difference between day and night.
With regard to forcing -houses, and heating apparatus in particular,
those who depended or relied upon having such a winter as we have
been accustomed to since 1870 must have discovered how unwise it is
not to have their knapsack, like the famous Scotch general, " always
in marching order.'' For ourselves, we discovered, just about the
middle of the storm, a leakage in connection with one boiler which
heated three small forcing-houses, one of which had been a recent ad-
dition. The boiler was not of sufficient capacity before the addition
was made, but upon being reset an improvement was effected ; and it
was only upon its trial for another winter, in order to test its power, —
not calculating, of course, upon the severe winter that was coming on.
In another case, where there were two boilers — one of which gave
way at the rivets during the early part of the summer, and was not re-
placed, because its companion was a powerful new boiler, and was cal-
culated to do the work of both, — this was also a cause of interminable
watching and dreary suspense, as it was found that the increased pres-
sure upon the boiler was more than it was safely capable of doing ; and
a breakdown would have been a misfortune, in the most charitable way
it can be looked at. Doubtless there have been many similar cases else-
where, where the opportunity should not be neglected of laying the
matter seriously before employers, and explaining the consequences of
a breakdown, in order that doubts as to the economy and necessity of
introducing such additions to existing arrangements as are required
should be removed.

Wherever there is anything like an important charge in forcing, there
can be no plea advanced in favour of that economy which assumes to
be a saving, to face a winter like the past one either with deficient
boiler-power or insufficient heating-surface. The former is dangerous,
and the reverse of economical ; whilst the latter is neither economical,
nor does it afford healthy conditions under which the tender leaves can
progress with satisfaction. Another great defect, and one that is most
noticeable in the vicinity of large towns, is that detached system of
grouping houses, without any notion of condensing, as it were, labour,
or of affording means of minimising such material as may be required
for the working of them.

Now it would be a matter of comparative simplicity, in the forma-
tion of new places, for employers to take the advice, in the first place,
of some practical and competent authority, who, whether he had to
build one house or six, would not only work upon approved principles,
but would also anticipate additions by which heating power could still
be supplied from one given point, and would always calculate upon
leaving room for further extension, as the situation and other circum-
stances would suggest.

1879.] TODEA SUPERBA. 235

Houses that stand high, and are exposed to searching winds, should
always have an additional pipe ; and no block of forcing-houses should
be heated by less than two boilers, which should work either conjointly
or independently of each other.

We have had sharp experience lately ; and we would again repeat that
such an opportunity should not be overlooked, where it has been found
necessary, of laying before employers matters of such vital interest to
all concerned ; because, from any point of view, those who have been
best equipped with boilers and pipes have saved most in labour and
fuel. Practitioner.

TODEA SUPERBA.

It may not be generally known how easy of cultivation this beautiful
Fern is, and how hardy of constitution it is, so that any one who has
command of a small one-light cold frame may easily grow it.

A few years ago we got a lot of Tree and other Ferns from New Zea-
land, and among them was a nice stool of Todea superba. Like a great
many who have not the proper means of growing them, we set it in one
of the houses, where we gave it as much shade as was convenient; but
in large airy houses it was next to impossible to keep it sufficiently
moist, so that it never made much progress. We had other two plants
for a considerable time before we got this one, and they were in
the same condition. Well, two years ago, we put them out into a
cold frame, turned the back of the frame to the south, and took
out about 18 inches of soil, then put in a good bed of ashes, on
which the plants were placed, the fronds being then about 1 foot
from the glass. The glass was whitened over, so as to give a nice
subdued light. The plants began to show how well they liked the
change, and very soon developed into good specimens. We kept them
all the winter of 1877-78 in the frame, with no protection except a mat
on at night, and though more than once subjected to 14° of frost, they
continued to thrive. They have been allowed to remain in the frame
ever since, and during the past winter have stood, uninjured, the severe
ordeal they had to pass through — having as much as 15° of frost inside
the frame, the soil having been frozen so hard for months that the pots
in some cases were shattered to pieces. They are now throwing up a
nice lot of young fronds, and have not lost one since they were first
put into the frame. Another Fern which has stood the winter unin-
jured beside them, is Davallia Nova Zealandii; as also Pteris scaberula,
Hymenophyllum tunbridgense, and H. Wilsonii.

John Garrett.

"Whittinghame.

236 THE GARDENER. [May

RAISING VINES FROM EYES ON TURVES.

I am somewhat surprised at Mr Simpson's comment on the above sub-
ject in last month's ' Gardener.' I can assure Mr Simpson that when
I penned the article referred to, neither his name nor his plans was
amongst my thoughts. I alluded to Mr William Thomson's name for
this reason : I took charge of a garden several years ago, in which all
the Vines were in such bad condition that I resolved to replace them
with young ones. I ordered some Vines from Mr W. Thomson (which,
however, he could not supply, so great was the demand for his Vines at
the time), and in doing so I asked several questions respecting the
course I intended to adopt in renovating the vineries. Mr Thomson
was good enough (in his usual kind manner to young gardeners) to
write me a long letter of advice and encouragement ; and it was to
some remarks made in this letter that I referred in my article in last
month's ' Gardener.'

I can remember something of a discussion going on in some of the
horticultural journals between Mr Simpson and Mr J. Muir, relative to
the system of raising Vines from eyes on Turves ; and my recollection
of that discussion is, that Mr Muir proved the two systems to be entirely
distinct. If, however, Mr Simpson's statement is accurate as to what
Mr Thomson has written in ' The Gardeners' Chronicle,' I must have
fallen into an error, as I do not recollect distinctly the precise terms of
Mr Thomson's letter ; and as the two systems, as I understand them,
may be defined as a " distinction without a difference," I may have
infringed unconsciously on Mr Simpson's right. I have some know-
ledge of Mr Thomson's experiments in Vine-growing, being privi-
leged with the confidence of a Dalkeithite in renovating a large range
of fruit-houses at a nobleman's place in Scotland; and I think, in
consideration of the experience acquired in Vine-culture by Mr Simp-
son during those " eight eventful years " spent at Dalkeith, of which
we heard so much of late, the unconscious error of a writer might
have been overlooked.

I have not the opportunity — even if I had the inclination — to refer
to any back numbers of the papers referred to at present ; but if I am
in error, I cordially and willingly tender an apology for the error I
have fallen into. W. Hinds.

[To the best of our recollection, Mr Simpson claimed to have raised Vines on
Turves previous to its being so extensively practised by Mr Thomson. But
their systems differed, in Mr Thomson having root-pruned the young Vines by
cutting off all the large rootlets, so causing a great multiplication of fibry
roots. If this version of the systems be correct there is no need for any
further discussion on the subject. — Ed.]

1879.] SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. 23;

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The first ordinary meeting of the second session was held in the Hall, 5 St
Andrew Square, Edinburgh, on the evening of Tuesday the 1st ult. — Mr M.
Dunn, president, in the chair. Ten new members having been proposed and
seconded, the president proceeded to deliver his opening address. The Associa-
tion, he remarked, had entered upon the third year of its existence under the
most favourable auspices — more than 100 members had been added to the roll
during the past year — able and instructive papers had been read at the several
meetings — and judging from the printed syllabus which had been circulated
among the members, there was no reason to doubt that the meetings during
the current year would be quite as interesting as those of the past. A number
of schemes for advancing its usefulness were at present under the consideration
of the council ; one of these, he might mention, was the granting of certificates
to exhibitors of articles which, though not really new, showed superior cul-
tural skill. Mr Dunn concluded his address by warmly admonishing young
gardeners to diligence in the acquisition of knowledge on all subjects connected
with their profession. Mr James Anderson, Uddingston, next read a paper
on "The Education of Gardeners," commencing as a boy at school, where he
acquired the elements of education, and from which he could not enter upon
his professional career too well furnished with general information. The young
gardener, if he would rise to eminence, must cultivate habits of observation,
and seek to attain a thorough acquaintance with all the details of practical
work in the garden. The bothy also, in which the great majority of gardeners
spent the time of their probation, afforded rare opportunities for self-improve-
ment ; there, young men interested in the same subject could stimulate and
help each other, and join together in procuring books and periodicals on
botany and horticulture. Mr Anderson's paper was listened to with great
attention, and after an interesting conversation upon the subject, in which
several of the members took part, he was accorded a hearty vote of thanks.

From a considerable array of interesting plants and flowers on the table for
exhibition, we noted a fine plant of Pilea muscosa nana, a dwarf creeping-
stemmed form of the old-fashioned ' ' Artillery plant." It will doubtless prove
useful for surfacing the pots of plants for table decoration, as it has a dense
cushion-like habit of growth and is quite as easily grown as the parent. This
was sent by Mr Forman, florist, Dalkeith. Mr M'Clure, Trinity Grove, had a
seedling stage Auricula, very distinct and pretty, biit somewhat deficient in
that smoothness and decision of marking regarded by florists as indispensable
to first-class flowers of its tribe. Mr Macmillan, Broadmeadows, sent blooms
of a grand strain of seedling Cinerarias, all remarkable for their brilliant col-
ours. A well-grown specimen of the white variety of Primula denticulata,
from Messrs Dickson & Co., was much admired. This is a plant well worthy
of cultivation, forming a fine companion to the well-known and popular species.
Messrs Methven & Sons had a number of trusses of seedling .Rhododendrons,
four of which were from the Indian species Thomsonii and one from Falconerii,
another Indian species. Mr Hugh Fraser explained that the former had been
obtained from seed saved from hardy varieties, fertilised with pollen from
Thomsonii. They were very early, flowered freely, of clear bright colours,
and though the trusses were not so compact as some of the other hardy varieties
already in cultivation, they were easily forced, and would doubtless be great
acquisitions for the winter decoration of the conservatory. The other seed-

238 THE GARDENER. [May

ling had been raised from Falconerii, the flowers of which he had attempted
to fertilise with Catawbiense, but it so closely resembled some of the varieties
of the female parent that it was probable that no cross had been effected, and
that it was only a seminal sport. It was announced that a number of new
flowers would be submitted to a meeting of the Floral Committee, which was
to meet next day.

ROYAL CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S
SPRING SHOW.

After a winter so exceptionally severe, there was every reason to fear that the
spring show of this Society would show its effects in a limited entry of exhibition
produce. Visitors to the show would therefore be most agreeably surprised to find
the Waverley Market furnished with such a grand display of plants and other
subjects. It was not, nor could it be expected, such a grand show as that of
last year ; but it says much for the popularity of the Royal Caledonian, and for
the confidence and consequent loyalty of Scotch gardeners to its management,
that the show of April 2d and 3d could only be considered as second to its
predecessor. As on the occasion of last year's spring show, a row of fir-trees
was carried round the greater portion of the large market, just in a line with
the front of the galleries and immediately beneath them. The general arrange-
ments were the same as at previous shows held last season — series of tables
running the length of the hall, with cross tables at each end. The arrangement
is doubtless convenient, but somewhat formal, and* will prove monotonous to
frequenters of the Edinburgh flower shows if continued in its sameness. Con-
sidering the enterprise of the trade in Edinburgh, and the difficulty experienced
by some of them in getting their plants staged on the tables allotted to them at
the past show, there ought to be no difficulty in obtaining a few naturally
arranged groups of plants at these shows.

As is usual with the shows of this Society, all went "merry as a wedding
bell," thanks to the good management of the managing committee — Messrs John-
son of the Lawson Co., M'Leod of the City Gardens, and Mitchell of Trinity.
Nor can we refrain from pointing out, for the benefit of kindred societies, the
great liberality shown to gardeners. No fewer than 400 admission tickets were
presented to gardeners and their assistants to view the exhibition— an act of
liberality on the part of the council unique in the history of horticultural
societies. Entering by the west entrance opposite the Scott monument, a table
of Hyacinths, staged in competition by gardeners, and containing over 200 plants,
at once attracts attention by the general evenness of the lot. Mr Cowe, after
several years' rest, exhibits again this season, and again occupies his usual posi-
tion. The companion table is filled with Tulips, very bright, and some of them
especially well grown. The centre line of large tables is, as usual, occupied by
nurserymen ; that at the west end being filled by Messrs Ireland & Thomson
with a collection comprising many fine Palms, new Crotons, and new Dracaenas
in large plants, well-bloomed plants of Azalea mollis, several pans of new Coleus,
some pieces of Orchids, amongst which were a fine variety of Odontoglossum
Cervantessii, and a good variety of Dendrobium Wardianum. On the table of
Messrs Dicksons & Co., which came next in order, were grouped large Tree-
Ferns, Rhododendrons, and forcing shrubs, edged with smaller plants in variety.
A small collection of the best Alpines occupied one end of the table, amongst
which were several seedling forms of the beautiful Primula denticulata. A

i879-] CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SHOW. 239

Rhododendron of the Edgeworthii type, named Duchess of Conuaught, was awarded
a first-class certificate. Messrs Downie k Laird came next with a massive group of
plants, monster specimens of Rhododendrons — Broughtonia occupying the central
position, and supported by splendid examples of brilliant Countess of Haddington,
Falconerii, &c. Various Azaleas, a fine Imantophyllum miniatum var., which was
awarded a certificate, and some of the finest varieties of Cyclamen ever shown
in Edinburgh, were the most noteworthy subjects in this grand table. The table
next in order is that of Messrs T. Methven & Sons, which is solely filled with
a collection of superbly-flowered Rhododendrons ; something to have relieved the
overpowering mass of flower in this group would have added immensely to its
effect as a whole. Some of the best Rhododendrons were John Waterer, Mirabile,
Prince Camille de Rohan, the Grand Arab, and Comtesse de Morello. On a smaller
table alongside this firm had an excellent display of forced Pelargoniums mixed
with other seasonable plants. A seedling Pelargonium, named Countess of Rose-
bery, in this group, had a certificate awarded to it. Messrs Drummond Brothers
had a table of choice decorative plants, with several nice bits of Orchids inter-
mixed. This firm had also some chastely-got-up wreaths and bouquets occupy-
ing one end of their table, which was placed across one side of the hall at the
east end. Opposite, Mr Wm. Taylor, market -gardener, Hermitage, Lochend,
Leith, staged a lot of forced stuff in excellent condition. There was a back row
of capital Spiraea, and rows of Polyanthus-Narcissus, Tulips, Hyacinths, a line of
Lily of the Valley finishing off the whole. A special award of £3, 3s. was worthily
awarded to this group. Mr Robertson Munro was great in Alpines, hardy
Primulas, and Narcissus ; a certificate was awarded to a white variety of Primula
denticulata. Messrs Todd & Co. had their table occupied with decorative subjects
— plants, bouquets, &c. Mr Anderson, Meadowbank, staged a small group of
seedling Amaryllis, which was most effective, and attracted much attention.
First-class certificates were awarded to three of the number— to Isaac Anderson-
Henry, an orange scarlet flower with white venation; A. B. Stewart, a deep
crimson spotted flower ; and Angus M'Leod, crimson. Turning up the northern
side of the building, a basket of lovely sprays of Hovea Celsii, another of Rhododen-
dron arboreum, and another of mixed Camellia blooms from Mr Knight, Floors,
is noted. Here also are the Deutzias in large plants, but overtied. A table of
exotic Ferns next attracts attention, as containing a remarkably even lot of fine
plants, in several species of Adiantum, Davallia bullata, extra fine, and a good
Gleichenia dicarpa. Up the same side are the specimen stove and greenhouse
plants— the best, as usual, from Mr Paterson, Millbank ; Azaleas in small pots and
well bloomed ; the gardeners' classes for Alpines, Primulas, Cyclamens, &c, — all
well filled and keenly contested. The Roses were not a large competition. Some
very fresh buds of Marechal Niel were staged by Mr Pearson, gardener to Lady
Dundas, Beechwood ; but doubtless the great centre of attraction in this series
of tables is that devoted to the Orchids. There is not only a better competition
for these than is general at Edinburgh, but some notable plants are shown.
Dendrobium nobile is shown in several collections, also D. Wardianum and D.
densiflorum, a well-bloomed basket of Ccelogyne nitida, a potful of C. Lemoinei,
and the Arbroath specimen of Phalaenopsis Schilleriana, with five branched
spikes and nearly 400 blooms. This superb plant was awarded the first prize for
a single Orchid, 15s. Mr Masson showed some fine cut Orchids as well,
including a spike of the new Cymbidium Lowianum, and some good varieties of
Lycaste Skinneri, including an extra fine bloom of alba. From Brentham
Park, Stirling, came also a collection of cut Orchids ; and also from Mr N.
M'Gregor, gardener to C. Walker, Esq. Bradfield, Lanark, a large and varied

240 THE GARDENER. [May

collection of cut Orchids, in the newest and best varieties, and every one of them
bearing the stamp of high cultivation. It was surely through some mistake
that no notice was taken of these by the judges. Passing to the south side of
the hall, we find the large specimen Azaleas, the first-prize specimens of Mr Paul
being simply perfect. There is only one table of plants staged for competition.
It was made up of half specimen Heaths and Azaleas, foliage plants, and deco-
rative bulbous plants, &c, in variety, and was very effectively arranged. Mr
Spence, gardener to J. Buchanan, Esq., is the exhibitor. There was a large
display of cut Camellias, but wanting in size and fulness. Fruit was not a large
show. Three good Pines were staged. Strawberries not large but fresh ; and
Lady Downes and Gros Colman Grapes in good condition. A Strawberry in a
pot was awarded a first-class certificate. It was shown by Mr Chisholm, gar-
dener to P. Rintoul, Esq., Both well Bank. Vegetables were very limited in
quantity ; especially noteworthy were some large fresh Brussels Sprouts, shown
by Mr G. Potter, Seacliffe, in his collection.

The following are the awards of the judges, who were : —

Messrs James Henderson, Cowden Castle ; Wm. Shearer, Yester ; Neil Glass,
Carsebrook ; Henderson, Killinside, Paisley ; Dunn, Dalkeith Palace ; Lewin,
Drumpellier ; Whitton, Coltness ; Lunt, Ardgowan ; Henderson, Castle- Wemyss ;
Johnstone, Glamis Castle ; Kettles, Archerfield ; and M'Intyre, the Glen.

GARDENERS AND AMATEURS.

Eighteen Hyacinths, not less than twelve sorts — 1, John Co we ; 2, George
M'Lure; 3, Alexander Kerr. Nine distinct Hyacinths — 1, George Gieig; 2,
Duncan Kerr ; 3, Eobert Lawrie. Six distinct Hyacinths — 1, James Walker ;
2, George Lawrie ; 3, A. Henderson. Six distinct Hyacinths (Amateurs) — 1,
G. M. Robertson ; 2, G. L. Brown ; 3, George Drummond. Four pots Poly-
anthus-Narcissus, sorts, pots not exceeding 9 inches — 1, James Spence; 2,
Thomas M'Donald; 3, J. Pearson. Nine pots Tulips, sorts, pots not exceeding
9 inches— 1, A. Paul ; 2, G. M'Clure ; 3, D. Kerr. Six pots Tulips, sorts, pots
not exceeding 9 inches— 1, G. Greig ; 2. Colin M'Farlane; 3, Robert Johnston.
Twelve pots Narcissus, garden sorts — 1, "W. Gordon. Six Rhododendrons, in
pots or tubs, hardy— 1, Sand. Gordon; 2, A. Stalker. One specimen Azalea— 1, A.
Paul, 2, Jno. Paterson ; 3, G. Greig. Four Azalea indica, varieties— 1, A. Paul ;
2, Jno. Paterson. Two Azalea indica, varieties— 1, A. Paul ; 2, G. Gordon ; 3,
Joseph M'Cormack. Three Azalea indica, varieties, pots not exceeding 8
inches— 1, Jas. Bald ; 2, A. Paul ; 3, A. Stalker. Six greenhouse or stove
plants, in flower, distinct varieties, not more than two Azaleas— 1, John Pater-
son ; 2, J. M'Cormack ; 3, A. Paul. Three greenhouse or stove plants, in flower,
distinct varieties, not more than two Azaleas— A. Stalker. Twelve foliage
plants, pots not exceeding 8 inches— 1, G. M'Clure; 2, T. M'Donald; 3, G.
Gordon. Four foliage plants, excluding Ferns — 1, J. M'Cormack; 2, Geo.
Gordon. Two foliage plants, excluding Ferns — 1, Jno. Paterson ; 2, James
Spence. Six plants for table decoration, pots not to exceed 6 inches — 1, Geo.
M'Clure ; 2, W. Manson. Table of plants, 30 feet by 5 feet— 1, Jas. Spence.
Two Dracaenas— 1, Donald Cameron ; 2, J. Spence. Four Palms — 1, Jno. Pater-
son ; 2, Geo. Gordon. One Palm — 1, Joseph M'Cormack ; 2, J. Paterson. Four
Orchids— A. Paul. Two Orchids— 1, A. Paul ; 2, J. Spence. One Orchid— 1,
A. Manson; 2, Chas. Smith. Six exotic Ferns, sorts — 1, Thos. M'Donald; 2.
A. Paul. Three exotic Ferns, in pots not exceeding 9 inches — G. H. M'Culloch ;
2, T. M'Donald. Three Adiantums, sorts— 1, T. M'Donald; 2, G. H. M'Cul-
loch. Three pots or pans Lycopodium — James Corsan. One Tree-Fern, not

1879.] CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SHOW. 24/1

less than 3 feet stem — R. Grieve. Two Epacrises — John M'Farlane. Four Cape
Heaths — 1, John Paterson ; 2, Joseph M'Cormack. Two Deutzia gracilis — 1,
Gideon Potter ; 2, Charles Smith. One Deutzia gracilis— 1, T. M 'Donald ; 2, R.
Johnston. Two Lilacs— 2, George M'Clure. Three Spiraea japonica—S. Graham.
Four Cinerarias, sorts — 1, James Spence ; 2, W. Bennett ; 3, William Kay.
Two Cinerarias, sorts — 1, George Greig ; 2, James Corsan. Twelve Camellia
blooms— 1, George Greig; 2, James M'Leod. Six Camellia blooms — 1, George
Greig; 2, James M'Leod. A hand bouquet — 1, Thomas Bourman ; 2, George
M'Clure. A table bouquet— G. M'Clure. Two Standard Mignonette— S. Graham.
One Standard Mignonette — Jas. King. Two pots Mignonette — 1, S. Graham ;
2, Jas. Bald. Three pots or pans Lily of the Valley— 1, J. Pearson ; 2, D.
Cameron. Four forced Roses, in pots — 1, J. Paterson ; 2, R. Johnston. Two
forced Roses, in pots— 1, J. Paterson, 2, G. Greig ; 3, G. L. Brown. Twenty-four
cut Roses, not less than twelve sorts — Henry Rintoul. Twelve cut Roses, not
less than six sorts— Wm. Kay. Twelve cut Roses, Marechal Niel — 1, J. Pear-
son; 2, James Gordon. Two double Chinese Primulas— 1, G. H. M'Culloch ;
2, J. Paterson. Two single Chinese Primulas— 1, Hugh Watson ; 2, William
Panton. Six hardy Primulas — 1, Gideon Potter ; 2, Alexander Kerr ; 3, D.
Forrester. Two Stage Pelargoniums, in flower — James Gordon. Twelve Cycla-
mens, not less than six varieties — 1, W. Manson ; 2, G. M'Clure. Six Cycla-
mens, not less than three varieties— 1, G. M'Clure ; 2, J. Walker. Six Auricu-
las, in flower — 1, R. Johnston ; 2, James Walker. Twelve Alpines, in flower —
1, D. Tweedie; 2, G. Potter. Six Alpines, in flower— 1, G. Potter; 2, D.
Forrester. One Pine-Apple— 1, M. M'Intyre ; 2, G. Johnston. Thirty Straw-
berries— 1, M. M'Intyre; 2, G. Johnston. Two bunches of Grapes, black — 1,
D. Kemp ; 2, G. Greig. Two bunches of Grapes, white — 1, A. Anderson ; 2, G.
Greig. Twelve Apples, dessert, three sorts, named — R. P. Brotherston. Twelve
Pears, dessert, three sorts, named — R. P. Brotherston. Two Cucumbers— G,
Greig. Collection of Vegetables, eight sorts — 1, G. Potter ; 2, Thos. Bowman.
Six heaviest stalks Rhubarb — 1, Wm. Kay; 2, H. M'Kenzie. Six heads Sea-
kale — 1, T. Bowman ; 2, Duncan Kerr. Three Broccoli— T. Bowman. Six
Leeks — 1, G. Potter ; 2, D. Cameron. A pint of Mushrooms — 1, James Gor-
don; 2, M. M'Intyre. Three Cabbages— 1, G. Potter; 2. C. Smith. Twelve
Onions— 1, D. Kemp ; 2, G. Young, Twenty-five Asparagus — James Gordon.
Fifty pods French Beans— James Gordon.

NURSERYMEN.

Eighteen distinct Hyacinths— Downie & Laird. Twelve Rhododendrons, hardy,
varieties, in pots or tubs— 1, Downie & Laird ; 2, Thomas Methven & Sons,
Twelve Rhododendrons, hardy, varieties, in pots not exceeding 9 inches —
Thomas Methven & Sons. Six greenhouse Rhododendrons — Downie & Laird.
Three greenhouse Rhododendrons — 1, Downie & Laird; 2, Dicksons & Co,
Twelve Camellia blooms, six varieties — 1, T. Methven & Sons ; 2, Downie &
Laird. A hand bouquet— 1, T. Methven & Sons ; 2, Todd & Co. A table
bouquet — 1, Todd & Co ; 2, Downie & Laird. Twelve pots Cyclamens — Downie
& Laircl. Six forced Roses, in pots — James Bryson, Helensburgh. Two Tree-
Ferns, not less than 4 feet stem— Dicksons & Co. Six Stage Pelargoniums, in
flower — T. Methven & Sons. Four Palms — Downie & Laird. Four Azaleas —
Downie & Laird. Twelve plants, foliage — Downie & Laird. Twelve plants,
table decoration, pots not exceeding 6 inches — 1, Downie & Laird ; 2, James
Bryson. Twelve Coniferse, in pots or tubs — T. Methven & Sons. Collection of
hardy spring flowers, not less than twelve sorts — Robertson Munro.

242

THE GARDENER.

[May

ffialen&ar*

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Crops jvill now be advancing, and
will require constant attention to
get the necessary work done at the
proper time. Thinning, hoeing, and
weeding will keep the labour-power at
high pressure. In other departments
of gardening so much requires to be
executed without delay that it is
difficult to keep pace with increasing
duties. Artichokes (Globe) should
now be examined to ascertain what
amount of injury has been done by
the late severe winter; and where
suckers have grown enough to allow
their being taken off for a fresh planta-
tion, well-dug and properly -manured
ground should be prepared and plant-
ed with them, in rows three feet apart,
and as much between the plants,
"We prefer planting a portion each
season, and never allow the old stools
to remain many years on the same
ground. Asparagus will now be in
full bearing, and on properly-drained
land good soakings of manure-water
may be given : guano and a little salt
suit well for this purpose. Beans and
Peas may be sown at least twice dur-
ing the month : stake Peas and mulch
them ; top Beans to induce them to
pod ; sow French Beans and Scarlet-
runners twice in the month, — they do
well in deep rich soil. Beet may now
be sown for main crop. Well-broken
mellow soil, in which is a dash of sand,
gives clean-grown, tender Beet. Very
poor and rich soils are to be avoided —
tough stringy Beet is useless. More
Broccoli may be sown, and the plants
which are up in the rows should be
thinned aud transplanted preparatory
to plantiug out in open ground.

Cabbage, Savoys, Brussels Sprouts,
Cauliflower, Kale, Parsley, Leeks,
Onions (the last named thickly on
poor hard ground for pickling), may all
be sown for late planting. When late
Potatoes are cleared off ground, it is
well to have plenty to fill up the space.
When ground becomes vacant in end
of summer and during autumn, it
should be preparer), sown, and planted
without delay. Planting thickly such
crops as Kale, Savoys, and Brussels
Sprouts makes provision for a good
supply of greens during spring ; and
never were such plantations more

valuable than during the past season.
The loss of Broccoli and the whole-
sale destruction of other crops, by the
long severe winter, are lessons which
will not be unnoticed. Kale sprouts
and young Savoy tops have been of
much value to us. The whole of the
Cabbage left to sprout were entirely
destroyed, and such a loss was the
greatest which we sustained, these
being in great request, while young
Cabbage are not valued in any shape.
While raising such crops care should
be exercised to prevent the young
plants in the seed - beds from being
drawn up weakly : the rows should be
thinned, taking first the larger ones,
allowing the smaller ones to gain
strength. Carrots may yet be sown for
a main crop. This crop often suffers
from grubs and other vermin, and it
is well to sow Shorthorn frequently,
which will in a measure meet the
demand. Lettuce should now be sown
in small quantities every week or ten
dr.ys, they run so quickly to seed.
It is well to prepare ground thor-
oughly for them by giving plenty of
rotten manure — especially from a cow-
yard. Shady positions are most suit-
able during summer. The plants may
be thinned to 9 inches apart, and the
thinnings planted out behind a hedge
or fence ; they will give a succession.
Endive for a chance crop may be
sown at end of month. Leeks may be
thinned and planted as soon as they
are about 6 inches high : extra rich land
should be provided for them if fine
qualit}T is desired. Potatoes now up
and growing may have soil drawn over
their tops to ward off frost : if the tops
have come up very thickly they may be
thinned. The tubers will be larger and
of finer quality. Spinach, small Salads,
Turnips, and Radishes should be sown
every week in small quantities : by
this practice there need be no failures.
Salsafy, Chicory, and Scorzonera should
now be sown and treated like Carrots.
Attention to thinning should not be
forgotten till it is late enough to do
I mischief. Carrots, Beet, Parsnips,
Onions, Turnips, Spinach, Parsley, will
all require speedy attention ; better
that the crops soould be too thin than
too thick. Th re is much mischief

i879.l

CALENDAR.

243

often done by the latter, especially
when sowing has been done thickly,
an evil the inexperienced are liable
to fall into. Rich ground demands a
greater width between the crops. Keep
the hoe at work wherever it can be
used. The pronged hoe in good hands
does capital service ; but to use so as
to pull up young rootlets is an evil
to be avoided. To keep weeds down
a continued war must be waged
against them. Leaving them to get
into size and depending on erradicat-
ing them is a practice which will
always secure abundance of "native
plants " in every garden. Among such
crops as Seakale, Horse-radish, Rhu-
barb, and other permanent roots,
neglect of weeds is often noticeable ;
but the cheapest and most effectual
way of keeping a garden in order is
to go over it frequently from end to
end. These roots just named may
yet be planted if there should be a
scarcity of them. Seakale and Horse-

radish may be planted on deeply-
trenched ground and well manured :
pieces about 2 or 3 inches long
dibbled in answers well ; but Horse-
radish may be put in deeply and
allowed to grow up strongly, then
trenched out for use. Rhubarb divided
up into nice crowns and well planted
will do well this year and form fine
roots : mulching is of much value to
these roots. Cucumbers and Vegetable-
marrows may be planted out about the
end of month on their ridges, using
turfy loam to start them. Haud-lights,
protectors, cloches, or frames should
be used till the plants are in full
growth. They may then be mulched
and carefully thinned, and watered with
tepid water as they require it. Chillies,
Capsicums, Tomatoes, and all tender
plants raised in heat, should now he
hardened off and planted in favoured
positions. Prick out and plant Celery
as they are fit. M. T.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — Succession plants that were
shifted into their fruiting- pots in March
and early in April will now have com-
menced to grow freely, and require to
be carefully managed to prevent their
making a soft, attenuated growth.
The nights in May being frequently
cold, a considerable amount of fire-
heat is necessary to keep the minimum
temperature at 65°, and such nights
being frequently followed by bright
sunny days, the fire -heat should be
checked early in the morning and be
kept as low as possible through such
days ; for there is no combination of
circumstances worse for Pines than
hot pipes, bright sun, and, as a neces-
sary consequence, a maximum amount
of ventilation. On mild nights the
night temperature may range at 70°,
after shutting up early with sun-heat
for a time at 85°. Keep the atmo-
sphere moist during sunny days by
frequently damping the paths and
other vacant spaces. Give a little
air when the thermometer rises above
75°, and gradually increase it till noon ;
and after 3 p.m. decrease it in the
same way until the houses or pits are
shut up with the temperature already
named from sun-heat. Watering must
be carefully attended to ; and while it
is very undesirable to keep the soil
too wet, it must not be allowed to

become dry and cling away from the
sides of the pots. Give weak guano-
water every time they require syring-
ing, always dewing the foliage when the
house is shut up. If a very bright
time succeed to a time of dull weather,
rather shade lightly for a few hours
than allow the foliage to get severely
browned, but do not continue the
shade longer than necessary. Earty-
started Queens will now be swelling
their fruits rapidly towards maturity.
Keep them steadily moist at the root,
and give plenty of air-moisture, espe-
cially when shut up early on the after-
noons of bright days, when the heat
may be allowed to run up near to 90°
for a time. Start the fires in time to
prevent the temperature from falling
below 75° on mild, and 70° on cold
nights. Remove all superfluous suckers
if such have been left at the first thin-
ning, leaving just enough to give plants
enough for stock. Smooth Cayennes
and other late sorts for early autumn
supply should show fruit before the
middle of the month. As soon as the
fruit is discernible in the centres, see
that they are moist at the root, and
maintain a brisk heat with a moist
air. Those shifted late last autumn
to form a succession to these will have
grown freely the last two months, and
if kept cooler, more airy, and slightly

244

THE GARDENER.

[May

drier for a month, will start in June.
Any of them that show signs of
growth more than fruiting may be
kept very dry for a few weeks, which
will predispose them to start along
with the others.

Vineries. — Keep ripe Grapes cool
with a dry atmosphere. If our for-
mer directions regarding mulching
and watering inside borders have been
carried out, there is not much fear
of the soil becoming dry and cracking
before the grasses are all cut. Keep
a sharp look-out for red-spider, and
should its presence be detected, attack
it with a sponge and soapy water.
As soon as the crop is all cut from
pot- Vines, turn them out, thoroughly
clean the house or pit, which can
either be devoted to Melons or young
growing Vines in course of preparation
for forcing next season. All vineries
where Grapes are swelling off should
now be shut up early, causing the
thermometer to run up to 85° or 90°
for a time, at the same time damping
the whole floor of the house. At 6
p.m. put an inch or two — according
to the weather — of air on the front.
Black Hamburgs should now have
no more fire applied than is sufficient
to prevent the temperature from fall-
ing below 65° at 6 a.m. : Muscats
should have 5° more. All advancing
will now require constant attention in
the way of stopping, tying down, and
pricking lateral growths as soon as
they appear. Admitting that all
Vines should not have their main
stems closer than 3h feet, in stopping
the fruit-bearing shoots leave them of
sufficient length to cover the whole
space without crowding. Indeed, we
prefer that the rods be 4 feet apart,
and the whole space taken up with
foliage. The close pinching system
has a debilitating effect on Vines, and
they cannot carry heavy well-swelled
crops without ample foliage. Thin
off superfluous bunches of all certain-
setting varieties when the Vines are
stopped. Less free setters should not
be finally thinned either in bunch or
berry until it be seen which bunches
have set the best. As a rule, however,
it is a waste of energy to allow the
berries to grow to the size of Peas
before they are thinned. Such va-
rieties as G-ros Colman and Duke of
Buccleuch should be freely thinned so
as to give room for their large berries
to swell without being jammed.

Vines planted early in March will
now have got a good hold of the
border, and may be encouraged with
a higher temperature. In training
those that are intended for the
permanent Vines, and which will
be cut down next season, allow
them to produce all the foliage that
can be trained to the trellis with-
out crowding. Others, intended for
bearing next season, and afterwards
to be cut out, should have their lat-
erals stopped for the present at the
second leaf, and the main rod stopped
when half-way up the roof, and after-
wards allowed to grow on for a time.
All covering of litter and leaves that
have been applied to outside borders
should be removed, not all at once,
but partially about the middle, and
wholly at the end of the month ; and
then let the border be forked up, with-
out, however, disturbing the roots,
and put 2 or 3 inches of good manure
on. It is a great mistake to suppose
that Vines do not require feeding after
the fruit is cut in May. The next
crop depends much on the foliage
being kept healthy as long as possible,
and the Vines being fed properly, as
long as the foliage continues healthy.
Pot- Vines will now be ready to go into
their fruiting-pots. In potting them
use a good holding maiden loam, some
bone-meal, or Standen's manure ; place
them in a light house, and grow on
with a warm, genial atmosphere, giving
a good supply of air on all favourable
opportunities.

Peaches. — Where Peaches are ripen-
ing look over the trees, and if any of
the fruits are shaded by the leaves
push the latter aside so that sun
and air can play freely about each
fruit to flavour and colour it properly.
Give them more air and less moisture,
but take good care that inside borders
do not become over dry. The better way
is to give a thorough soaking as soon
as first signs of the approach of the
ripening process appear. If crops that
have completed the stoning process
be considered too heavy a crop for the
the trees to properly swell and mature,
lose no time in thinning them off : the
night temperature for these should
now be 65°. Syringe freely every fine
day, and shut up early with sun -heat,
and pay particular attention to the
state of inside borders as regards
watering. Older and heavy - bearing
trees should be liberally supplied with

i879-]

CALENDAR.

245

dung-water. In tying in the wood of
later trees, remove every shoot that
is not required to furnish the trees
with the requisite amount of young
wood for next year's crop. The crowd-
ing in of wood in summer, and the
cutting of it out at pruning - time,
ought to be an obsolete system. Keep
a sharp look out for greenfly and red-
spider, and get rid of it at once.
There is nothing more certain than
tobacco smoke for the former, and
vigorous syringings for the latter.

Figs. — Early crops will be approach-
ing maturity, and if produced from
plants in pots, continue to give them
the most generous treatment. With
a large spread of foliage and a heavy
crop of fruit, the trees will require
liberal supplies of manure- water ; and
if the surface of the pots are occasion-
ally dusted with Standen's manure, it
will materially assist them. The
minimum night-temperature may range
about 65°. Syringe the trees freely
every day at shutting - up time until
the fruit approach the ripening point,
when a drier atmosphere and more air
should be given. As soon as the
second crop appears at the axils of the
leaves they should be thinned to three
or four on shoots a foot or 16 inches
long. Tie in the young growths on
later trees, and pinch the points out of
them when they have made seven or
eight joints.

Melons. — Attend carefully to the
impregnation of female blossoms at
mid-day on fine days. Stop the fruit-
bearing growths one joint above the
fruit. So soon as a full crop is set
give the plants a good watering, and
when the fruit begins to swell freely
syringe the plants when the house or
pit is shut up on bright afternoons.
The earliest crops will be advancing
towards full size, and must not be over-

watered in case the fruit splits, as
some varieties are apt to do. It is
best to mulch the surface of the bed,
and so prevent evaporation and the
necessity for frequent waterings. See
that the fruit is as much as possible
exposed to the sun. The night tem-
perature at 10 p.m. may range to 75°
when shut up with sun-heat, allowing
it to fall to 70° by morning. Attend
to the tying and stopping of succession
plants, and plant and sow for August
crops.

Cucumbers. — Top-dress with loam
and rotten manure, in about equal
parts, plants that have been bearing
freely for several months. Remove
all small and dead fruits ; thin out
the growths, and keep them warm
and moist for some time, and they will
soon furnish themselves with young
bearing shoots again. Early spring-
planted oms will now be in full bear-
ing, and should have generous treat-
ment. Now is a good time to plant
more plants for autumn supply. The
syringe should be freely used every
fine afternoon, and the house shut up
so that the heat stands at 90° for a
short time.

Strawberries in Pots. — Plants
swelling off heavy crops of fruit will
now require careful attention in water-
ing, and if standing on shelves will
require to be watered twice a - day.
But all Strawberries in pits should at
this season be set on a cool, damp
bottom, if not in pots or saucers filled
with rich soil. Red - spider is apt to
be troublesome now, and the syringe
should be freely used up to the time
the fruit begins to colour. Fruit
ripened now in airy houses are gen-
erally of excellent flavour. All plants
that have been forced should be well
hardened off and planted out in rich
soil for fruiting next year.

Unices tor (tonspnnftmts.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in 'The Gardener' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not for
publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence

246 THE GARDENER. [May 1879.

which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and address
of writer.

J. Hiscocks. — The Alnwick Seedling is a fine late Grape. It will do at the
cool end of your Muscat-house.

"William Jamieson. — We do not know what you call "the old sugar Pear."
Will it be Sucree vert (green sugar), a dessert Pear that ripens in October— a
har^y, vigorous, free-bearing sort ?

Stove. — 3, Adiantum cuneatum; 4, Cyperua alternifolius ; 5, Selaginella
Martensii ; 6, Panicum variegatum ; 7, Selaginella denticulata ; 8, Isolepis
gracilis. The other two Ferns we cannot make out from the morsels sent.
As to the Begonias, it is impossible to name them. They are varieties of the
Rex type, of which there are scores very much alike. Besides, your leaves
were not nearly fully developed. We cannot tell you how to treat your Pan-
cratium, unless you let us know which one it is. Pancratium fragrans, for
instance, is a stove plant ; while P. illyricum and P. maritimum are hardy
herbaceous plants. Nearly the same applies to Hemerocallis, some of which
are hardy, and some — H. disticha, for instance — greenhouse plants. We do
not know any plant by the name of Martiminium.

\Y. H. Divers. — Your MS. received. It is a verbatim copy of what has
already appeared in a contemporary, and we cannot make room for it.

W. Forbes, Auckland, New Zealand. — Received, with many thanks.

G. F. — It depends on the terms of the schedule. If there is a class for
Ferns and another for fine-foliaged plants, we should say the Adiantum would
not be admitted in the latter class.

Roderick Dhu. — Godetia Lady Albemarle ; Collinsia bicolor ; Nemophila
insignis.

New Plant and Bulb Company. — Owing to a press of matter, we are un-
able to notice this month.

We have to thank several correspondents, for esteemed contributions which
are unavoidably held over.

THE

GARDENER

JUNE 1879.

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

HE discussion on the above subject is increasing in force.
If it goes on much longer, 'The Gardener' will be in
danger of exploding, unless provided with a safety-valve.
In the issue for April two of your correspondents bring
forward — the one an equalised mixed forcing, the other
a push - and - pull theory of circulation; and in the May issue Mr
A. D. Makenzie furnishes a strata theory.

The latter gentleman says that my paper in the February issue " only
brings forward the ghost of an old friend with a new face," and that
the system of fitting up a hot-water apparatus therein advocated " has
been familiar to gardeners and hot- water engineers for a generation."
Now, I am not going to dispute this. It may be all true, for anything
I know to the contrary. I only know that if the method " has been
familiar to hot-water engineers for a generation," they have kept the
matter to themselves, and, as a rule, carried out a different one. Mr
Makenzie disposes of several of the statements contained in my paper
by simply calling them grievous and serious mistakes, errors, <fcc, &c.
It is not surprising, however, that he adopted this hurried manner,
seeing that he was only dealing with "the ghost of an old friend."
Indeed it would be unfair to expect him to examine it minutely.
Ghosts, whether of friends or foes, are said to be uncanny ; and none
of us would like to have more to do with them than we possibly could
help. I fancy, however, that unless more logical reasons are furnished
for the incorrectness of the statements which I have made in reference
to the subject under consideration than those supplied by Mr Makenzie,
that " the ghost of an old friend with a new face " will be an appari-
tion of frequent occurrence to hot-water engineers.

248 THE GARDENER. [June

If " it is not the case that " engineers and gardeners are agreed upon,
as being essential to rapid circulation of the water in the pipes, " that
the boiler should be sunk " below the level of both flow and return
pipes, what does Mr Makenzie mean by the following assertion :
" Those having practical experience know that where it is practicable
to place the boiler say 10 or 12 feet below the floor on which the
pipes are laid, there is a very much more rapid circulation than where
there is only say 3 feet of difference between the bottom of return and
top of flow pipes." It is evident from the latter quotation that Mr
Makenzie is agreed that sinking the boiler below the main body of the
pipes is essential to rapid circulation. And to prove " conclusively the
great value of having a deep stokehole," as being essential to rapid cir-
culation, he quotes Mr Kinnear Clarke's theoretical tables for finding
the velocity at which the water circulates in a hot-water apparatus.
According to these tables — as given by Mr Makenzie, — by increasing
the main height from 10 feet to 20 feet, the water will circulate at an
additional speed of 40 feet per minute. Mr Kinnear Clarke, however,
adds an important qualification to his theoretical conclusions on this
matter by saying, " The velocities due are not attained. The actual
velocities are in some cases not more than a half, or even a ninth, of
the velocities due to gravity." But supposing the velocities due to
gravity were attained, it would not prove " conclusively the great value
of having depth of stokehole." Elevation of the flows could be got
without having recourse to Paddy's plan of elevating the roof of his
dwelling by sinking the floor. This elevation theory, with the view of
increasing the rate of circulation, is based upon the fact that the higher
the point from which a body falls vertically, the more rapid is its
motion as it nears the earth. Now a fluid of less specific gravity
cannot fall through one of greater ; and in a properly adjusted heating
apparatus each volume of water, from the highest point to the lowest,
in the circuit of the pipes, is relatively lighter than the volume below it,
and therefore the velocity does not increase on the journey from the
highest to the lowest point, like a body falling through space, but is
the same at all points of the apparatus ; and therefore sinking the bot-
tom of the boiler more than a foot or so below the floor on which the
pipes are laid is a mistake, if it is done for the purpose of accelerating
the circulation of the water in the apparatus. The proper way of at-
taining the latter is not by increasing the vertical height between the
lowest and highest point of the apparatus, but by increasing the differ-
ence between the temperature of the water as it leaves the boiler at
the highest point and enters at the lowest ; and the way to do this is
by causing the water to flow over a larger surface of piping in the
houses to be heated.

Then in reference to my objection to giving the flow-pipes a continuous
ascent from the top of the boiler to the furthest points to which they extend
in the various compartments to be heated, Mr Makenzie says, " This arrange-
ment of the pipes is often carried out, not because it is considered essential for

i879-] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 249

the rapid circulation of the water, but because, all things considered, it is in
most cases the best arrangement for other reasons."

Now local circumstances may necessitate the sinking of the boiler below the
level of both flow and return pipes, but there is no reason why the flows on
entering the building to be heated should not be carried to their highest point
at once, and then commence a descending course. And I maintain that this
way of fixing the pipes not only "works fairly well," but that it is the right
way of fixing them ; and that it can be carried out more advantageously in
an extensive system than "where there is only one or at most two houses to
be heated."

Next, Mr Makenzie says it is an error to suppose that one particle of water
cannot transmit heat to an adjoining particle ; but he supplies no proof of its
being so. In a question of the kind under discussion, assertions are useless,
unless backed by some means of proving their correctness, and Mr Makenzie
supplies no way by which it can be proved that one particle of water is able to
transmit heat to an adjoining particle. All experiments with the view of
testing this go to prove that 2)radicatty the particles of which water is com-
posed are unable to transmit heat to each other by conduction.

To prove this in a rough way, take sheets of equal dimensions of the follow-
ing minerals, that is, "iron, stone, lead, and ice," and hold them one at a
time on the palm of the hand in front of a brisk fire : the heat emitted by the
fire will be transmitted to the hand by the above minerals in accordance with
their respective conducting power, the surface of the ice exposed to the action
of the fire will receive as much heat from the latter as the "iron, stone, or
lead ; " but because of the inability of the particles of water to transmit heat
by conduction, the palm of the hand is not warmed, but, on the contrary, is
exposed to a temperature at the freezing-point so long as the thinnest film of
ice intervenes between it and the source of heat. Yes, " water is water," and
for any practical purpose has "no power to transmit any heat by conduc-
tion." Then about the return current in the flow-pipes, Mr Makenzie admits
that it takes place in the first instance, but says, "The back motion in the
flow-pipe must immediately cease as soon as the average temperature in the
flow-pipe becomes higher than the average temperature in the return." Now,
if this were correct, "the back motion" would not continue more than a few
minutes after the fire was set agoing below the boiler. As the first volume of
heated water that entered the flow would raise the average temperature of the
latter above the average temperature of the return, so that back motion would
not be worth talking about if it only continued the length of time indicated
by Mr Makenzie. It continues, however, and is as constant as the forward
motion in all apparatuses that have the flow-pipes laid on a continuous ascent
throughout their length. The reason for the continuance of the return
current is plain. The point of the apparatus on which the fire acts contains a
volume of water of less specific gravity than the lower strata of water in the
flow-pipes, and whether we treat the question as one of "pure hydraulics"
or as one of "hydrodynamics," it won't alter the fact that water of less
specific gravity cannot force that of a greater uphill, and therefore the colder
and relatively heavier volumes of water in the under side of the flows will roll
back in hotter and relatively lighter volumes in the boiler, "like so many
boulders tumbling down the Cumberland Screes," notwithstanding what Mr
Makenzie may think to the contrary.

Again, Mr Makenzie says, " The difference of temperature between the upper
part of the flow-pipe and the under part has nothing to do with it" (that is, with

250 THE GARDENER. [June

the back motion), " any further than that the upper strata travel faster than
the colder under strata." Now if the colder under stratum did travel uphill,
there is no doubt it would do so at a slower pace than the upper and hotter
stratum. But when each stratum reaches the highest point and commences the
downhill journey in the return-pipes, how do they behave as regards their
respective rates of travelling? Does the upper and hotter stratum travel faster
than the under and colder stratum on the descending course ? and if not, may I ask
Mr Makeuzie to explain why not ? According to my ideas of circulation, the
colder volumes of water should lead in the race from the highest to the lowest
point, whereas, according to this strata theory of circulation, the hotter
volumes make the circuit of the pipes in less time than the colder. In an
apparatus where this takes place the circulation is bad : the heat in the stoke-
hole, where it is not wanted, is excessive ; and in the houses, where it would be of
use, it is unsteady and unsatisfactory. In conclusion, I quite agree with Mr
Makenzie when he says it is evident that I have not mastered the subject. It
is difficult to master any subject, however simple, and heating by hot water is
rather a complicated one. The readers of 'The Gardener,' however, will form
their own opinions as to whether Mr Makenzie's or my ideas on the question
are the more correct. J. Hammond.

Brayton Hall, \2th May 1879.

[We beg to thank several correspondents for their contributions on this sub-
ject, and regret that we cannot make room for them this month. — Ed.]

THE CULTIVATION OF CLEMATIS.
"Without doubt the varieties of Clematis have risen of late years to a
very high degree of excellence, and we know of no other plants that
can be used for such a variety of purposes, and none is more worthy
of extended cultivation in private places. Yet we do not see them
grown so extensively as they deserve to be, especially in pots, for
the decoration of plant-houses. They are alike suitable for the or-
namentation of rooms, either in small pots or in large ones ; and
the plants may be trained round balloon trellises, or umbrella-shaped
standards, or in any conceivable form to suit the purpose and taste
of the cultivator.

They are at home as climbers in the greenhouse or conservatory ;
and what can produce a more pleasing effect than these lovely plants
when in flower, with their various and delicate shades of colour, hang-
ing in festoons from the roof of plant-houses, intermixed with ever-
green plants such as Passifloras, Tacsonias, &c, which considerably
assist to hide the bareness of the Clematis when in a leafless state 1
We are aware the Clematis is somewhat objected to because it is de-
ciduous j nevertheless, with a selection of sorts, some can be had in
bloom nearly, if not quite, all the year. And this objection can be
overcome by growing the plants in large pots, and removing them

I879-] THE CULTIVATION OF CLEMATIS. 251

from the house when the wood begins to ripen and the foliage loses
its freshness. This certainly entails more labour, in training the
plants round stakes to prevent them from being broken, until they
again start into new growth.

The Clematis is valuable as an outdoor climber for furnishing
walls and climbing over verandas, and produces a gorgeous effect
when employed in pleasure-grounds in suitable nooks and corners.
The Jackmanii type is most suitable for this purpose ; still the old
C. flammula with its small flowers is not to be ignored, especially if
used where it can ramble at will and produce a semi- wild appearance.
In fact, any of the class used for the purpose referred to are best left
to enjoy the freedom of nature when the surroundings are of a natural
character, — as when the limb of an old tree is given them to ramble
over, or a portion of a broken-down wall, or anything that will be in
character with the portion of the ground where they are employed.
They can also be planted on the sides of banks and slopes in company
with Ivies, Cotoneasters, Heaths, &c, to form a groundwork, with
choice Coniferae dotted at suitable distances, where this natural and
easy system of planting is appreciated.

We have also seen Jackmanii used with great taste in the flower-
garden ; and few things are more beautiful than a number of these plants
plunged into a large bed in pots, or planted out if intended to remain
permanent, and trained over a low wire-trellis, say one foot or eigh-
teen inches above the soil. When employed in such positions, as by
the side of a winding walk banked more or less with shrubs, and in
convenient places in large beds cut out in the turf, such plants can
be used with advantage, and flower until very late in the autumn, if
not cut off by early frosts.

Where conservatories have to be kept gay all the year with flower-
ing plants, a number of Clematis grown in pots is invaluable. C.
indivisa lobata is a charming plant in a pot, and useful for cutting :
being an evergreen species, it is not at any season of the year un-
sightly. It can with judicious management be had in bloom by the
end of January or February. For late winter and early spring, C.
Lady Londesborough is the freest I am acquainted with : it stands
forcing well, and produces its flowers in abundance early in the season,
as it appears to do later on. C. Lord Londesborough, Miss Bateman,
Sophia, pleno, Mrs Barr, Mrs Badger, Standishii, and Lucie Lemoine
flower very freely a little later in the season. The lanuginosa, Law-
soniana, and Henryii type will not do for forcing, yet they will bloom
freely in pots, and are worthy of pot-culture for the immense size of
their flowers, especially the latter variety. Jackmanii and the rubella
type axe good summer and late-autumn bloomers.

252 THE GARDENER. [June

The propagation of the Clematis is effected by means of grafting
during April and May, or it can be done earlier if the young shoots
have been advanced by artificial means. The time of the operation
depends in a large degree upon the young shoots. The stocks can
be kept from early winter until the wood is ready. The roots of
common varieties are principally used for stocks, — in fact, good
fleshy roots can be taken from any of the varieties. The strong roots
should have some small fibres on them. The root should be split
down the centre for about three-quarters of an inch; the scion or
graft should be about three inches in length, containing one pair of
leaves, which is sufficient for the graft; it should be cut into a wedge,
fitted into the incision in the root, and then made secure with a tie
of matting. Afterwards they should be potted in 3-inch pots in
sandy loam, placed in the propagating - frame, shaded from strong
sun, and well sprinkled overhead with the syringe : only a small
space of time will elapse before the graft and stock unite. When
the union has taken place, each plant should have a small upright
stake to tie the small shoots to as they extend. If worked at the
time named, they will be ready by the end of June to be transferred
into 5 -inch pots, using a compost of rich fibry loam, a seventh of
well -decomposed manure, and sufficient sand to make the whole
porous. These will make nice plants by the end of the season, and
if well-ripened free-blooming varieties, will produce about six blooms
each the following spring and summer.

When the young plants are removed from the propagating-frame,
they require to be carefully shaded for a time from strong sun, and
gradually exposed to more air. Care must be taken that they do
not receive a check, which causes them to ripen instead of making a
vigorous growth.

The Clematis enjoys liberal supplies of water while growing, and
occasionally manure-water, and should have plenty of pot-room. After
the plants have filled the 5-inch pots with roots, they can be trans-
ferred the following season into larger pots, according to the pro-
gress they have made. Care must be taken not to subject the plants
to strong heat when forcing them into flower. The most suitable
place for them is an early vinery or Peach-house when first started.
One important point to be considered is, that if the plants are required
to bloom early, their growth must be early matured, and the plants must
receive an early rest by being placed outside. The summer- and
autumn -blooming kinds can either be grown in a cold pit or in the
open air all the season, and brought in while in flower.

Wm. Bardney.

1879.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 25a

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

BOTJVARDIAS.

Considering the usefulness of the Bouvardias as autumn- and winter-
flowering plants, and especially when cut flowers are much in demand,
they are not so generally nor so extensively grown as their merits de-
serve. Even in many places where they are grown, they are not cared
for so well as they might be : indeed, one seldom sees what may be
called a well-grown plant, the general run of them being long and
leggy, with a tuft of leaves, and perhaps a small half-developed truss of
flowers, at the top. Now, considering how easy the cultivation of these
plants is, with a very small modicum of care they may be grown so that
they will be an ornament to the greenhouse instead of being the reverse,
and they will then amply repay the cultivator for the little extra care
bestowed on them.

When there are a few old plants, they should be pruned back much
in the way we do Fuchsias, and put into heat early in February, to
get cuttings from. A vinery at work suits them well. When the
young shoots are long enough to make cuttings — that is, when they
have made three or four pairs of leaves — they may be taken off, and
struck in the usual way, say in 6-inch pots. The pots should be filled
with crocks to one third of their depth, and then a layer of ordinary
soil, merely to form a bed for the silver-sand, which should be about one
inch in depth. Insert the cuttings, press them pretty firmly into the
sand, water through a fine-rosed pot, and plunge the pots up to the rim
in a hotbed or other place where a brisk bottom-heat is maintained.
They must be shaded from bright sun, and get an occasional dewing
from a syringe in the evenings of hot days. They will have formed
roots in about three weeks, when they may be potted off either singly
in small pots or three plants in a 4-inch pot, using good fibry loam
and leaf-mould in equal proportions, and a fourth part of silver or river
sand. They should then be returned to the hotbed, or put into a
warm pit, and kept rather close, and shaded for a few days, until they
begin to root into the fresh soil. The temperature may range about
60° at night, with a corresponding rise by day. A slight dewing from
the syringe on the evenings of bright days will very much refresh
them. In the course of a few weeks they will want a shift into larger
pots, — those in the small pots into 4-inch, and those in the 4-inch into
6-inch. They do not care for large shifts. A little peat-soil mixed
with the other is an advantage to them, but not absolutely essential.
They should be kept well pinched while young, so as to make nice
bushy plants. In potting, the soil should be pressed firmly about
them, as they are fine-rooting plants, and do not like a loose damp soil.
In large pots especially, care is required in watering not to give it
oftener than needed, and then in sufficient quantity to wet the whole
soil in the pot.

254 THE GARDENER. [June

They should be kept in a warm house until about the beginning of
June, when, being previously hardened off, they may be turned out
into cold frames or pits, and set on a bed of ashes ; or still better,
plunge the pots in the ashes, which will save such frequent waterings.
Let them have plenty of light and air, and still attend to the pinching.
A few of them may be introduced to a warm greenhouse about the
beginning of October, when they will very soon come into flower :
others may be introduced at intervals as required, but all of them
should be housed before any danger from frost is anticipated.

Where pits or frames are not readily available, they will do nicely
planted out in a moderately rich and sheltered border. In this case,
however, they need not be shifted into larger than 4-inch pots at first,
and not planted out before the middle of June, having been previously
well hardened-off. Still attend to pinching and watering, if necessary.
In the beginning of September they may be lifted carefully, and potted
up either singly or in groups, as required. When potted, water them
well, and set them in a cold frame, which must be kept close and
shaded for a while, until they begin to root afresh, when shading may
be dispensed with, and air given — moderately at first, and afterwards
more liberally, until by-and-by the lights may be removed altogether
through the day, replacing them at night. The after-treatment will be
the same as described above. A successional batch of cuttings should
be struck during the month of May, only these should be kept in pots
and grown in cold frames or pits. These will come into bloom later in
spring, and will be very useful, before forced flowers come in. Of
course, the time of blooming will be regulated by the amount of pinch-
ing they receive. There are a good many varieties of Bouvardia, but
we think the most generally useful are Vreelandii, elegans, Hum-
boldtii, and corymbiflora. J. G. W.

CHOICE HARDY SPRING-FLOWERS.

Resuming my running selection of these beautiful gems of the flora
of spring, I must draw attention to one or two which have been
omitted in the connection in which they would naturally have
occurred in last month's paper on the subject. The first of these, and
one of the very choicest and most charming, is —

Menziesia empetrifolia. — Nothing can exceed the brilliant and dis-
tinct effect of this neat dwarf shrub when in flower. It literally
clothes itself in its globular, heath-like, rosy-purple flowers in April
and May, which in the mass have a luminous effect. It grows about
9 inches high, and is very compact and dense in habit. It should be
accommodated with a compost of sandy peat, and is well worth any
ordinary care and trouble to insure success.

Hutchinsia alpina is one of the neatest and most profuse bloomers

1879.] CHOICE HARDY SPRING FLOWERS. 255

of the Cruciferse. The whole plant when in bloom does not exceed 4
inches. The flowers are small, white, and densely profuse. It is
usually grown in pots amongst collections of the choicer alpine-plants,
but it is quite capable of being cultivated successfully in the front
lines of mixed borders, and looks especially well on rock-work.

Poly gala chamatbuxus purpurea. — This is an immense improvement
on the old cream-coloured, and I suppose normal, form of this now
not very common border-plant. The flowers are larger, the wings
expanding considerably more than in the old variety : they are deep
rosy-crimson, and in fine contrast with the bright-yellow, green-tipped
keel.

Dodecatheon Meadias. — This, in its several varieties, is one of the
most elegant and pleasing of choice spring flowers. It is now rarely
met with — a regrettable circumstance in connection with a plant so
beautiful, and one which, if fairly treated, is most easy to be culti-
vated. A deep, moist, yet not water-logged loam suits the require-
ments of the plant best ; and it is benefited by partial shade. I). in-
tegrifolium is a very handsome species, with deeper crimson flowers
than any of the varieties of D. Meadiae. Both flower in April and
May, but in the colder districts they are more likely in average seasons
to unfold their flowers in June than earlier.

Primula. — The best of this genus for our present purpose are the
early blooming hardy varieties of the Primrose, purple-white, and
crimson and yellow. These are beautiful and very profuse-flowering
plants, requiring but very ordinary conditions of culture to succeed
well. There are also the Polyanthus in great variety, and hybrid forms
bearing a resemblance in colouring to those, while in habit and size
of the flowers they resemble the Primrose. These latter are beautiful
things, which may be raised by the hundred from seed, and are most
easy to maintain and increase afterwards by division when especially
fine forms make their appearance, and render it desirable to perpetuate
them.

Primula auricula. — The " Auricula " in all its splendid variety, too, is
well worth growing more extensively than it is. Good strains of this
is to be had from seed, which, like all other Primulaceas, should if pos-
sible be sown as soon as it is ripe. There are not a few of the more
distinct and beautiful species of Primula which succeed well in some
places, both in the north and in the south, but not generally so well in
the open ground as to recommend them to be included in a selection
like this, which is merely intended to include such plants as will suc-
ceed well in any part of the country as simple border or bedding
plants ; so that many of the choicer alpine species of Primula must be
passed over for the present.

Crocus. — All the species and varieties of this hardy and very beauti-
ful genus are fit for the purpose for which these papers are written.
Their gay colours, abundant floriferousness, and their simple cultural

25G THE GARDENER. [Jink

requirements, render them most desirable plants for spring decoration.
C. Imperati is one of the earliest to flower, with lilac and purple-
coloured flowers. In mild winters it not un frequently opens its flowers
in January. C. biflorus, with white flowers, striped externally with
purple, appears in February or March, according to the position and
nature of the soil and the season of the year. C. lacteus flowers about
the same time as the last-named, the flowers being cream or milky
white, — a very pretty but not very generally grown sort. C. reticulatus,
witli golden-yellow flowers heavily marked with deep-brown lines at the
base of the corolla externally, is the sort which is almost universally
to be found in gardens of all classes. C. vernus, from which has sprung
nearly all the common varieties, with purple, blue, white, and varie-
gated flowers, is simply indispensable in the spring flower-garden.
C. versicolor : this is another of the parents of the numerous race of
common spring-flowering Crocus, the offspring not being always easy
to distinguish from the varieties of the vernal crocus ; but as swelling
the bulk and numbers of beautiful spring flowers, they are very im-
portant.

Iris reticulata. — This is one of the most lovely of spring flowers.
The deep brilliant violet-purple flowers, elegantly netted with orange,
render it one of the most desirable of spring flowers. Unfortunately
the plant is not hardy in all localities; and it is only its great beauty
and exceptional attractiveness that induces me to notice it in this
selection, so that those so favourably situated as regards soil and
locality as to be able to grow it should include it among their pets.
If the soil and bottom is dry and warm, it will suffer comparatively
little from the severest cold it is likely to experience in any part of
this country. It prefers a peaty compost, but will thrive well in a
light sandy loam on a warm open bottom.

Sisyrinchium grandiflorum is one of the hardiest of its genus, but
should be accommodated with a sheltered dry spot, so that it may be
protected from the weather while in flower. The flowers are reddish
purple, larger than most other species, and rather freely produced
when the plant is suitably accommodated. There is a capital white-
flowered variety, named S. grandiflorum album, which forms an
excellent companion to the purple.

Galanthus — tSnowd?*op. — Of this little need be said, except that
G. nivalis is so universally cultivated that no necessity remains for
urging its more extended cultivation. G. plicatus, the Crimean Snow-
drop, is sufficiently distinct in habit and in the greater size of the
flowers to merit more extended culture. Notwithstanding it has been
many years in this country, it is not plentiful : it does not increase so
freely as the older species. The G. Imperati, more recently introduced
to cultivation, is yet very scarce. I fail to see any feature in this to
justify the laudations bestowed on it when introduced. As a form of
Snowdrop, it is in no way superior to G. nivalis, except in the some-

1879.] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 257

what more pure white flowers ; while in point of size of flower and
sturdy compactness of habit, it is decidedly inferior to G. plicatus.

Leucojum vernum. — A very beautiful Snowdrop-like subject in all its
parts, but larger than any Snowdrop at present known. The flowers
are pure white, tipped with green : they open in March. The plant is
easily grown in almost any soil if the drainage is good.

W. Sutherland.

Craigleith Nursery, Edinburgh.

THE GARDENER'S PRIMER.

NO. III.

A practical acquaintance with the roots of different trees and
shrubs will soon teach the gardener how to discriminate their dis-
tinctive characteristics of growth and smell, so as readily to distin-
guish the roots of the ubiquitous Birch, the Portugal Laurel, Laburnum,
Quince, Scotch Eir, &c, or the Vine, or the beautiful roots of the
seedling Asparagus, or the roots of the Tussilago Farfara (Coltsfoot),
or the Couch-grass, or the Bell Bine, or the root of the Raspberry.
Some plants, such as Dracaanas and tuberous-rooted Geraniums, can
be readily propagated by cuttings made of the roots.

Some plants, such as Ivy, are furnished with what are called adven-
titious roots, but as they are on the stem they are not true roots ;
nevertheless such roots after they enter the soil perform the functions
of true roots.

Some plant-growths are often called roots which are not so : they
are prostrate or underground stems, such as the root of the Iris, which
is supplied on its under surface with rootlets, on its upper surface
with leaves, and is properly called a rhizome. The root of the Potato
is an axillary bud on an underground stem. The corm of the Cycla-
men, as it is sometimes called, is in reality an abrupt rhizome or
root-stock, analogous to that of the Primulaceae, to which family it
belongs.

Bulbs are regarded as undeveloped stems or underground leaf-
buds, from which true roots will grow, but never a tap-root. They are
formed from seed, or from the axillary buds on the stem of the
bulb, and when perfected are of annual duration only : the same Tulip
does not blossom the second time. There are tunicated bulbs, as
Hyacinthus orientalis ; scaly bulbs, as Lilium candidum ; and these
scales, on removal from the bulb, may be propagated, and will form
bulbs. Some plants of the Aracese family will produce tuber-buds
above ground ; other tuberous-rooted plants, such as Gesneraceaa,
will produce, from the leaf, roots which soon develop tubers like the

258 THE GARDENER. [June

parent plant, if scientifically treated for that purpose, of which more
will be written hereafter.

Pseudo bulbs, or pseudo tubers, of Orchids, are of green colour above
ground, thickening at the base of the stem. In the Dendrobium
they assume the form of an ascending stem, and bear on it the
beautiful ilowers. The function is that of a reservoir to supply to
the next pseudo bulb and llower nourishment. The pseudo (stem-
like) bulb of Dendrobium possesses the faculty, on division into cut-
tings, of throwing out aerial roots and forming a new plant : possibly
the joints in the stem are allied to nodes, if not identical.

The organisation of the roots of the plant is so beautifully adapted
to the functions they have to perform, that they go, as it were, in
search of and to select their food, often long distances, penetrating
through crevices in the soil. The root-cells are considered to be the
immediate absorbers, and are easily and often replaced ; but there is
no sufficient reason for considering that in dicotyledonous plants
they are formed annually, as has been sometimes stated. Water in
some form, either as vapour or as liquid containing in solution
carbon dioxide (carbonic acid), ammonia, and saline elements, is the
medium by which plants absorb their food.

So great is the attractive force of the liquid in a plant set in motion
by the action of these root-cells, and of a certain amount of heat
which is necessary, and of the cell-walls of the root, stem, and leaves,
that the absorbed liquid passes from cell to cell, filling them up, pass-
ing into the stem, distending the cell-walls, and enlarging the same,
and thence to the leaves, where it is elaborated, and the liquid is
called sap. This process of the strange phenomenon of liquids
attracting each other through a vegetable tissue, as the cell-wTall or
membrane of cellulose, is known by the name of osmose (osmosis, or
impulse): the outward flow is called exosmosis, the inward flow is
called endosmosis. Its power varies : some organic substances have
little or no osmose, others produce it to a great extent, and others
have a negative osmose. This osmotic action has been called hydro-
static pressure, and in grape-sugar it is very great, as may be readily
seen in the warmth of spring, when Vines bleed, as it is called, if cut
before the leaf-growth has commenced to utilise the sap. Schleiden
says that endosmosis is assisted by absorption of cell contents, caused
by evaporation of the watery fluid through the leaves : in other words,
as all the cells are filled with fluid, evaporation empties them, and
therefore the greatest flow of sap is where, and when, the plant has
most evaporating organs.

A good example of the power of endosmotic force may be seen
sometimes in a vinery, when a young rod is carried up from an old

1879.] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 259

Vine : the force is so much stronger in the young than in the older
rods, that they will be prejudicially affected by their younger relative,
until the equilibrium is restored by the flow of sap equally, in the
old and new wood, which will probably not be the case during the
first year of its growth. The flow of liquid induced by exhalation or
evaporation is not necessarily a process of growth, although, like it,
it is towards the youngest portions of the plant ; it may go on after
the growth of foliage on a tree is completed.

Each plant has a stem, either above or below the ground (the
plumule of the seed elongated), for supporting leaves, buds, or
flowers, and through it the liquid-sap absorbed by the roots and the
gases absorbed from the atmosphere and decomposed in the leaves
circulate through the plant structure. The stem is either simple or
branched ; it may be more or less destitute of leaves, as in different
species of Cactus, Euphorbia, and Stapelia, where the epidermis acts
the part of a leaf. The stem is terminated by a bud (called punctum
vegetationis) at every point, consisting of embryo leaves packed
closely together, and at intervals on the stem or branch are nodes
or joints, from which buds and leaves grow (in Pinks, Carnations,
aud Grasses the nodes are very much swollen) \ and the spaces
between these nodes are called internodes.

The stem may be erect (erectus), or procumbent (procumhens), or
creeping (repens), or reclining (reclinatus), or arcuate (curved), so
as to form part of a circle, as the Bramble ; or clinging to any
object for support by fibres, as the Ivy (radicans) ; or climbing by
means of tendrils, as the Vine (scandens) ; twining spirally round
other plants, as Honeysuckle (volutilis) ; or supple, pliant, whip-
like, as Jasmine (flag elli for mis) ; or trailing, as a runner of the
Strawberry (sarmentosus) ; straight, as in Lily (rectus) ; two-ranked
when branches spread in two horizontal directions (distichus) ;
branched, as in the Apple (ramosus) ; proliferous (prolifer), bearing
branches on the summit of the others, as in Scotch Fir ; articulate-
jointed, as in the Indian Fig family (Opuntia), &c.

The shape of the stem may be either round, terete (feres) or two-
edged, ancipital (anceps) or three-edged or triangular (triquetrous), or
square (quadrangular is), or five-sided (quinquangularis), &c.

The surface (epidermis) of the stem may be either smooth (glaber),
viscid (viscidus), warty (verrucosus), papillose (papillosus), rough
(scaler), downy (tomentosus), shaggy (villosus), glaucous (glaucus),
striated (striatus), furrowed (sulcatus), spotted (macidatus) ; some-
times there are states of the epidermis, or attachments to it, produc-
ing hairs, glandular hairs, prickles, &c, but thorns are attached to
the wood.

260 THE GARDENER. [June

In its earliest stage the stem consists of cells closely packed
together, which, from their crowded state and consequent pressure
during growth, assume various shapes called cellular tissue ; and if
the texture of it is hexagonal, it is called parenchyma (from its sup-
posed likeness to liver or lungs). There are other forms of cellular
tissue in it, as vascular tissue, which includes woody tissue and fibro-
cellular tissue (cell with a spiral coiled up in it), but one and all
these forms are only modifications of cellular tissue.

Labore Vinces.

NEW ZEALAND FORESTS.

The mystic law of association seems to crowd around the word forest —
the idea of all that is voracious in the brute, cunning in the reptile, or
treacherous in the savage. Were we transferred to the jungles of India,
the backwoods of America, or even the more immediate bush of Aus-
tralia, we might experience such treachery, cunning, or voracity. But
in the peaceful shades of New Zealand forests the traveller may rest
at ease, without fearful apprehensions of attacks by savagery in any
form whatever.

Unlike the open forest of the sister colony, the New Zealand forest
presents one mass of dense vegetation ; much of it seems to take the
shape of an immense cone, commencing with the lesser forms of vege-
tation, and gradually rising, until in the centre the giants of the forest
attain to an altitude of from 100 to 200 feet. The interior of the
forest presents a strange appearance, causing one to think that nature
had attempted the humourous in place of the grand or sublime. For
the grotesque forms of parasites, the strange positions of twisted trees
bending in all shapes so as to obtain space for growth, with here and
there the dead and dying endeavouring to reach the ground, form
figures, some of which would puzzle a Euclid to describe. But amid
all we find ample food for reflection, in considering that while men con-
gregate together, forming nations which in succession rise and fall by
the clashing of arms or the degeneracy of power, Nature, as if all
unconscious of such changes, unremittingly continues her^labour with
fibre and tube, and the wondrous mechanism of a thousand leaves —
thus building up these mighty forests, which patiently await the time
when the adventurous explorer shall break in upon her solitude, and
open to the world another field of enterprise. The New Zealand
forest is entirely evergreen, and though the return of spring is not
visible in a fresh outburst of foliage, which makes the woodlands of the
old country so attractive, yet there is compensation in the landscape
being spared from the desolating appearance of leafless trees.

Many of those plants which adorn our conservatories with continual
freshness are natives of this forest. For instance, the Tree-Fern Dick-

i879-] NEW ZEALAND FORESTS. 261

sonia antarctica is well known for its majestic appearance, but it
should certainly be seen in this its natural habitat, with stems 20 feet
high, crowned by fronds from 8 to 10 feet long. To stand at the side
of a chasm and look down its rugged sides clothed with Blechnum
and Mosses, a gushing stream sparkling at the base, and one of these
giant Ferns filling up the centre, is but a sample of the many natural
ferneries which the traveller comes across. Another exile known to
most lovers of Palms is Areca sapida. It soon overtops the Tree-
Ferns, while the different shades of green make a pleasing contrast.
In spring it throws out bunches of red berries, which are much prized
by the natives, while the leaves are used by many settlers for thatch-
ing purposes. In its habit of growth it seems to shun all exposure,
and seeks the shelter of other trees. Often it is found in places com-
pletely guarded against both sun and wind. We have a species of
Cabbage tree, which from its hardy habit would do well for " subtropical
gardening." In leaf it is much like a Dracaena, and when seen at a
distance looks very like a plume of feathers. For greenhouse de-
coration in winter it would be a pleasing object. Another denizen
of the forest here is Dacrydium cupressinum, a plant which has
not received the attention which it deserves. It has been in cultiva-
tion more or less for thirty years, and having been numbered with
the Juniper family, may in some collections be found labelled Juni-
perus elata. The brightness of its evergreen foliage, which retains
vigour and freshness throughout the entire year, with innumerable
waving branches bending with feathery lightness to the most gentle
breezes, including a pleasing symmetry of form, all tend to give it
rank amongst the rare and beautiful, and make it a most desirable
plant for greenhouse culture.

We may now notice one or two of the timber trees which constitute
the wealth of the New Zealand forest. The foremost of these be-
longs to the natural order Coniferae, and is known to collectors of
hard-woods as Dammara australis. Leaving out some of our British
Oaks of historic fame, it would be almost impossible to find a more
stately tree. It is common to meet with it in the forest of the North
Island, rising to a height of 150 feet, and measuring 30 feet in cir-
cumference at the base. The wood is very inflammable, from the
amount of resin contained in it ; and this no doubt accounts for vast
extents of such forest having been accidentally burnt. It exudes a
valuable gum, which has become an important article of commerce.
For shipbuilding it is considered equal to Oak, and large quantities
are annually exported for that purpose. Another timber of colonial
reputation is a species of the Chinese Pine, Podocarpus totara. In
foliage it is somewhat sombre ; the wood is so close in the grain as to
be termed " iron wood " by the natives, and is of course very durable.
As indicative of the wide domain of some of our botanical orders, we
may mention that the Verbena has a representative here, which ranks

2G2 THE GARDENER. [June

amongst the finest timber trees which the colony possesses — we allude
to Vitex litoralis. After the first few years of growth it begins to
assume form, which ever after marks it as one of the handsomest trees
of the forest ; and for the construction of wharfs and bridges, and
every variety of work where it is necessary that wood be placed under
water or deeply imbedded in the earth, its timber is considered invalu-
able.

The New Zealand forest cannot be said to be rich in floral produc-
tions. There are, however, some which deserve notice. Foremost of
these, for peculiarity of growth and gaiety of flower, ranks the Rata
or Metrosideros lucida. It commences to entwine round other trees
as a very slim climber, but its growth is so rapid that it quickly en-
circles the whole tree. With every fold it tightens its grasp until all
vitality is entirely crushed out of the trunk round which it clung for
support. So does it enclose it with its own growth, that but for its
twisted form of timber nothing would remain to tell of the encofnned
tree. Many of them grow to an immense size, and the wood is much
used by wheelwrights for special purposes in the craft. Another member
of the same family, Metrosideros tomentosus, makes the forest some-
what gay during the months of December and January. Its flowers
are scarlet and of capitulum inflorescence. British residents have hon-
oured it with the name of " Christmas tree," and it goes to form
part in church decoration during that festive season. Another floral
attraction in the forest is Clematis Nova Zealandia. It provides
itself with a natural trellis -work by entwining the rugged stem,
and then hanging down from the branches in long festoons. The
flowers are pure white, and produced in rich profusion ; and being a
spring flower, is to the natives as a floral almanac, telling them when
to plant their much-prized Kumara or Sweet Potato.

We might continue our list to a much greater extent, there being
140 different species of timber already recognised in the trade. These
few "jottings" will, however, give some idea of the forest-lands of the
" Britain of the South." William Forbes.

Auckland, N.Z.

LIBONIA PLOEIBUNDA.

This is one of the most useful and showy of stove spring-flowering
plants, which produces its orange-yellow bells in great profusion
when carefully cultivated. The plant is simple to propagate
and cultivate, but is somewhat difficult to ripen into a free-
flowering state, unless its requirements are thoroughly understood.
Cuttings taken of it during the months of March and April, or
small plants of it purchased from the nursery, and grown on; will

1879] LIBONIA FLORIBUNDA. 263

make nice plants for furnishing next spring, and will with ordinary
care develop into fine bushes the following season.

In preparing for inserting the cuttings, the pots should be washed
clean, and drained by the ordinary process, and then filled with a
mixture of well-decomposed leaf-mould mixed with sharp sand —
say in the proportion of one-third of the latter to two-thirds of the
former. It will also be advisable to leave space to the depth of an
inch on the surface of the pots for a layer of pure sharp sand, which
should be pressed down with the fingers and made firm, and into
which the cuttings should be inserted. The cuttings should be
selected from a clean healthy stock ; and of course it is understood
that in all cases of propagating, the materials employed should be of
the same temperature as that from which the cuttings are taken,
and be in good working condition, — that is, to be neither too wet
nor too dry. After the cuttings are inserted, the pots should be
plunged in a pit or propagating-frame with a bottom-heat of 85°.
There is no objection to propagating such plants in a frame with the
ordinary bedding plants, such as Verbenas, &c. ; but if a moderate
bottom-heat is at command in a pit heated by hot-water pipes,
the latter should be preferred, as being more conducive to a steady
growth than the conditions of the former, as heat fluctuates so rapidly
in an ordinary dung-frame when exposed to the external conditions of
an ever-varying atmosphere ; but, as before remarked, much depends
up m circumstances, such as season of propagating, locality, situation,
&c. &c. Assuming, however, that the cuttings have been plunged
in a bottom -heat such as that recommended, they will soon form
roots if the necessary conditions are observed in the way of shading,
syringing, and watering.

After the young plants are sufficiently rooted they ought to be
shaken in the plunging material, leaving a vacuum between the pot
and the material in which it is plunged, preparatory to placing the
cutting-pot upon the surface of the bed, to prevent anything like an
abrupt check to growth. The same conditions of atmospheric treat-
ment will still require to be maintained, except that the shading
may be dispensed with after the cuttings have furnished themselves
with roots, until the plants are ready for potting, which will be as
soon as they are fit to be handled, and are large enough to be shifted
into 3-inch pots. Before they are shifted, the soil for potting should
be got in readiness, by having it mixed and laid up in a heated shed,
or at all events in some dry place where it can be taken from and
warmed to the necessary temperature a few hours before it is re-
quired for potting. The soil should be mainly friable loam, with a
dash of leaf-mould and sand mixed with it. Eich soils and over-

2G4 THE GARDENER. [June

potting arc to be avoided in the cultivation of these plants, especi-
ally in the northern parts of the kingdom, where light and sunshine
are at a minimum. The plants would only require all the more
ripening if their treatment were such as to induce soft growth, and
the probability of ilowers would be less also.

When the plants are potted, the soil should be made firmer about
their roots than is usually done for soft-wooded plants ; and they may
be returned to the propagating-bed and placed on the surface of it, or
in some other place where the conditions will be somewhat the same,
till they root afresh in the new soil, and are found to be growing
both at root and top, when the young shoots may be pinched so as
to furnish the plant with from six to eight shoots. With regard to
pinching, it may be observed that perhaps to this being done too
often and too late in the season, and to the plant being kept too long
in heat, may be attributed the quantities of flowerless plants that
are frequently to be seen. Better have half a dozen firm shoots well
ripened and in a flowering condition than double that number in
an imperfect state.

As soon as the young shoots break after being pinched, it will be
better to shift the plants to a position nearer the glass where they
will get plenty of air and light, and where they will make short-
jointed stubby growth.

From this date onwards (until the weather becomes warm enough
to turn them out into a cold frame) there is no position that would
suit them better than that of a low pit with a single hot-water pipe
round it, where a regular temperature could be maintained, and
where air could be given more or less during the greater part of the
day without running the risk of doing injury to other things.

It is not, however, an absolute necessity that this should be the
case, as the plants can be very well grown in any Cucumber pit,
vinery, or plant-house where there is a little heat to start them in. In
this case they should be carefully hardened off by removing them
gradually into a lower temperature for some time before they are
turned out into their summer quarters.

From 4 to 6 inch pots will be large enough to grow the plants
in the first season — certainly for furnishing purposes the 4-inch size
will be the best, as the plants in them will be the most likely to
flower.

Before the plants are turned out into frames in June, or even
where they are grown under the improved facilities elsewhere re-
ferred to in the shape of heated pits, their condition should be
rigidly inspected, and if they are not in a sufficiently advanced state
to undergo the change, they ought to be encouraged, by such means

i879-] LIBONIA FLORIBUNDA. 205

as are at command, to hasten that desirable condition of early well-
developed growth before they are exposed to the atmosphere of a
cold frame. At the same time, in a warm climate and in a " favour-
able season," there is no doubt but that these plants could be well
managed without a particle of fire-heat after they had a little warmth
to start them in ; and their growth, although a little shorter than that
made in a warmer and closer atmosphere, would be as certain, if not
more so, to yield an abundance of flowers, provided it was thoroughly
ripened in the autumn. When the plants are housed they ought to
be kept near the light and only moderately supplied with water, as
they are liable to suffer and lose their leaves if over-watered and
kept in a low temperature. "When they are required to come into
flower, the temperature should be raised gradually to that of a warm
greenhouse, and afterwards increased as circumstances may require.
Year-old plants that are trimmed back are treated much the same as
plants that are raised from cuttings, except that in the latter case
they do not require a high temperature at any time. They are par-
tially shaken out and repotted, and when started in a gentle warmth
they grow freely and make fine bushes the second season.

W. Hinds.

Although within the last few years this beautiful and useful green-
house plant has been several times brought under the notice of your
readers by various writers, it is astonishing that we see it so seldom
adorning the stages of the amateur's greenhouse. When in full
bloom, the appearance of the plant is highly effective. The flowers,
which are of a tubular shape, red and yellow in colour, present a
telling contrast with the rich glossy foliage, which is a striking
feature of the plant. If a proper system of culture has been
previously followed, the plants will begin flowering in November,
and continue to flower for months. The particular plant in my
possession began flowering at the time referred to, and is still in
flower at this date (12th March). Younger plants will come on in
succession. The propagation and culture of this plant are not neces-
sarily a difficult matter, therefore good growers of the ordinary run
of soft-wooded greenhouse plants need have no hesitation on that
score in beginning with it. Cuttings of the young wood inserted
in the usual light compost root readily at this season, when placed
in a warm, moist temperature, and kept close and shaded. When
sufficiently rooted, they should at once be potted off into thumb
pots, in a compost of loam, sand, and horse-droppings, or some bone-
meal. If leaf-mould is mixed with the soil, it should be only a very

2G6 THE GARDENER. [June

little, as it causes a watery growth. Return the plants to the

quarters they were struck in till they are established in the pots ;

and they will require shading from direct sunshine for a few days

after being potted ; and then two shifts, first into 4-inch, and lastly

into 6-inch, pots, will in general be sufficient to grow plants large

enough for ordinary purposes. Over-potting the plants should be

guarded against, especially those wanted in flower before midwinter.

By timely attention to this matter much disappointment may be

avoided. Plants in large pots are apt to continue in free growth

till the season is too far advanced to insure the maturity of the

young wood, upon which a crop of flowers depend. The plants do

well grown in a cold pit or frame from June and onwards during the

summer months, when they are attended regularly in regard to the usual

items of watering, staking, tying, and pinching to keep them stocky.

The method of cultivation adopted by the "Squire's Gardener," which

he detailed in your pages some years ago — viz., that of turning the

plants out into earth-pits, is worth the attention of those whose

labour power is limited, and who are expected to keep up large

numbers of flowering-plants with, at best, inadequate means of doing

so. I have adopted this method in the case of Cyclamens with good

results. Unless a good position not far from the glass can be afforded

them in the greenhouse, there need be no hurry in housing the plants

in autumn, as they will do far better in a frame than when huddled

along with other plants which already may have too little room. The

flowers are produced freely in a comparatively cool greenhouse with

a dry atmosphere. They should be carefully and regularly attended

to with water in a tepid condition throughout the winter months.

D. Mackie.
Ayrshire.

GLOXINIA CULTURE.

The Gloxinia is now becoming a very popular plant, and most de-
servedly so ; for the beautiful varieties now in cultivation have a grand
and very effective appearance when in full flower. Those desirous of
having a few plants in their stove collection should procure a packet
of seed from some well-known grower, and from some good strain,
and sow it at once in gentle heat. The seeds should be sown
thinly and evenly on a fine surface, and simply dusted over with light
soil, — watered with tepid water through a fine rose, covered with a
piece of glass and placed in gentle heat, and never allowed to become
too dry or kept too wet, as the seedlings may damp off. Whenever the
plants are noticed above the soil, the glass should be removed, and a
little shade afforded them when the sun is very strong. As soon as

1879.] HARDY FRUITS. 267

they are fit to handle the young plants should be pricked off into small
thumb-pots or seed-pans, gently watered, and shaded for a few days till
they take to the new soil. The soil best suited for these is an equal
mixture of good fibrous peat, loam, leaf-mould, and about a sixth part
of sand when the plants are small, with the addition of charcoal, bone-
dust, and thoroughly decomposed cow-dung when the plants attain size
and strength and require to be shifted on into larger pots.

Existing varieties should be repotted annually as soon as the bulbs
begin to grow ; and in doing so the old soil must be entirely removed,
which can be easily accomplished if the bulbs are allowed to become
rather dry. It is also advisable to put them into smaller pots, of size
sufficient to allow an inch or so of fresh soil between the bulbs and the
sides of the pots — this will allow of their being shifted once or twice
during the summer before the flowering season. They must be shifted
on whenever the roots reach the sides of the pots ; and when growing
freely they must be carefully watered and kept in a light, airy posi-
tion near the glass without exposing them to cold draughts. A little
guano- water may be given occasionally ; and when the flowers begin
to expand a slight shade will be necessary to prolong the flowering
season as much as possible. Choice varieties can be propagated from
cuttings and leaves taken off with a sharp knife and inserted in 4- or
5-inch pots in light soil, with a layer of silver sand on the surface, and
covered with a bell-glass. When the flowering season is past and the
growth nearly finished, stand them out in a cold frame, fully exposed
to the sun, until they are thoroughly ripened and gone to rest, when
they can be stored away in any place where they can be kept cool and
moderately dry until wanted for potting again. Dundonian.

HARDY FRUITS.

With all the favourable reports from the great fruit-growing districts of the
"promise" for fruit crops, and the singular lateness of the season which
is likely to keep the flower-buds from opening, so that they would be out of
danger of late frosts, yet the buds are open or opening, and the severity of the
weather decreases but little, so disappointment may come after all. On look-
ing over a very fine "set " of Peaches and Nectarines on the open walls, we find
the greater portion of them black and soft as pulp. We fear if a favourable
change does not come soon (May 14), the sanguine hopes of the great fruit-
cultivators will be greatly modified.

Trees trained to walls and other fences will now require a general overhaul.
The strong shoots which are so general on healthy trees may require stopping
before they rob their fellows. Thin out all shoots not wanted for next season's
fruit-bearing ; endeavour to get all bare portions of the walls covered— not at
random, however, but by systematic training, keeping the shoots as straight
as possible, pointing regularly in the right direction — that is, when fan-
training is practised. If horizontal - training be the style adopted, then
lead them in lines running straight with the bricks. Where wires have

2G8 THE GARDENER. [June

been placed, the horizontal system is partially carried out. Perpendicular
traiuing is gaining in favour with many, and it answers well where walls
require partly filling-up. A tree with from two to four and six upright
shoots, trained from 8 inches to 1 foot apart, will produce a large quantity
of fruit. Whatever the favourite method is, there should be no vacant
space on the walls, and there should be no crowding of branches together.
The crowding system defeats every effort to secure crops of fruit. In
the autumn, when sun and air should have free access to every leaf
and branch, by crowding the current year's growth the ripening process is
much retarded or entirely prevented. The labour that crowding gives, too, is
very objectionable, especially where labour power is limited. All outward
growing shoots are objectionable : if fruit sets on them, they are kept from
the walls and loose their protection ; in course of time they become ugly and
unfruitful. This applies to Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, and Apricots. Dry-
ness at the roots of newly-planted trees should be remedied by applications of
soft- water which has been exposed to the atmosphere. If trees are starting
weakly into growth, guano- water would be of service in starting them. A
mulching of good rotten manure is of much benefit, by keeping the roots cool
and nourishing them.

Aphis and other insects are generally found to become active at this season,
and they should not be allowed to have a footing on the foliage. Tobacco-
water or tobacco-powder dusted over the trees, or syringed on them, mixed in
water, or Gishurst's compound in 2 ounces per gallon, are some of the most de-
structive remedies, and no insect life can stand against them. However, if the
vermin should get established, the remedies must be applied almost daily.
The grub found on Apricots, curled up in the leaves, can only be mastered
effectually with thumb and finger. Morello Cherries are very subject to black -
fly — a most formidable insect : a small vessel rilled with Gishurst's compound,
and the points of the shoots dipped in the liquid, will do much to destroy the
brood ; but often, where the foliage is close to the walls, the best plan is to nip
off the points of the diseased shoots and burn them.

Pears, as a rule, are not so liable to aphis, but are subject to scale, which
is worse still : syringing with warm soapy water will do much to act as a pre-
ventive. During winter, when the foliage is off, a painting of soft-soap, soot,
and sulphur would kill scale — a brushing with soft-soap and water would
destroy the greater portion of insect life. When Pears have made good
growth, it is well to begin shortening the young shoots in time. The method
of stripping the trees all at once is objectionable : some do not allow the young
growths to form at all, but we prefer the medium course, and begin at top of the
trees, say about the third week in June, and shorten back about a third of
them ; in a few weeks later the middle portion of the trees are trimmed back,
and later the bottom portion of the tree has attention. We have seen this
system answer admirably : with many years in succession there were loads of fruit
always to thin off. In autumn, when growth ceased, the shoots were well cut
in, and many buds were thus formed. In winter there was little else to be done.
Apples as espaliers we would always treat in the same manner. When wood be-
came extra gross and spongy, root-lifting piecemeal is had recourse to ; not
left to winter, as is often done, but during the latter part of summer or early in
autumn. Suckers must not be allowed to grow, but be taken off as soon
as they appear. Cherries and Plums are very liable to form suckers also,
and should be often looked over to see that none are growing from the roots
or below the graft. Grafts must be looked over, and the ties partially

1879] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 2G9

or altogether loosened to allow theni to swell. Budding may now be
done : it is simply forming a slip in the bark of a stock, cutting across,
forming the letter "T\ The bark is raised up and the bud (which has
been previously divested of its wood, the bark cut to fit that in the
stock) is slipped in and fitted neatly, with the point alone exposed, and all
the other portion being neatly bound closely with soft matting. Standard
trees receive little help during summer; but if time and means would allow,
they could be kept in fruiting condition and made haudsome by attention to
disbudding. - Open hearts for bush-shaped trees, and the permanent branches
kept at regular distances, is very desirable.

Pyramids, being generally dwarf and more come - at - able, receive more
careful attention. They may be thinned and stopped as the growth of the
tree indicates. Keeping a straight centre shoot, and the others branching out
and upwards at equal distances, demands attention. This rule applies to all
trees and plants, as the stopping of one shoot strengthens the others. Dwarf-
bushes known as small fruits require the same attention as directed for last
month.

Figs will now be making rapid growth, and where grown thinly with lead-
ing shoots and short spur-looking wood, should be encouraged, for it is always
fruitful. These young growths should be carefully gone over, and the points
squeezed at every fourth leaf or so. If plenty of fruit is showing, they should
be exposed to the sun as much as can be done. If there is a wall to cover,
leading shoots should be trained and kept as leaders. Figs do admirably with
any kind of training. Just as the Pear is manageable, so is the Fig. Cordons,
either as large or small trees, can be made and kept fruitful. Such sorts as
Castle Kennedy, Gros vert, and Brunswick, often require much cramping at
their roots, and even a little cutting, to keep them stiff in growth and fruitful.
Brown Turkey and White Marseilles hold their own with most Fig fanciers,
yet Negro Largo is a fine and free bearer.

In the orchard-house abundance of work will give the cultivator exercise of
body and mind, if he is an enthusiast. Thinning of fruit, keeping down insects
by fumigation and washes, stopping of shoots to direct the course of those
left, keeping the trees from becoming matted, careful ventilation, watering
with care, giving thorough soakings of weak manure- water, syringing plenti-
fully, keeping healthy open surfaces of pots and borders, and applying whole-
some mulching of rotten manure, — are objects which all in their part tend to
make orchard-house tree-culture a success, and be something different to the
starvation method we often see. M. T. a

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

Your correspondents Mr Inglis and C. M. cannot agree with Mr Hammond's
theory of the circulation of hot water in pipes ; and, as you remark, "it is quite
evident that this is a subject that requires to be discussed. " I thought Mr
Hammoud's reasoning so clear that no one would have thought of disputing it,
as Mr Inglis and C. M. have done. There is a small stove here, the heating of
which is a practical illustration of the correctness of Mr Hammond's remarks.
The structure in question is 30 feet long and 13 feet wide. It is heated by a
saddle-boiler, which would do its work well enough were it not that the flow-
pipe has a continuous rise all the way along one side, back the same side,

270 THE GARDENER. [June

round one end, and along the other side, returning back to the boiler. The
rise in the 90 feet of piping is exactly 18 inches. I find, under these circum-
stances, that before the water at the end furthest from the boiler is percep-
tibly warm, the flow as it leaves the boiler is unbearably hot. Indeed in
mild weather, when hard firing is not called for, the highest pipes at the far
end never heat at all, while the first length or two of pipes are far too hot.
Besides this, the upper sides of the pipes a few feet from the boiler are always
much hotter than the under sides. I know of another instance in which tbe
pipes were placed in the way I have described, and with precisely the same
results. Lately, however, in this case, the arrangement of the pipes has been
altered, aud they are placed on the level with a gentle fall for the return pipe,
with the result that the heat is now much more ecpially distributed in the pipes,
the difference of temperature at 6 feet from the boiler from the temperature at
GO feet being scarcely perceptible to the hand — two-thirds of the fuel formerly
required being now sufficient to maintain the requisite temperature.

In heating different houses from one boiler they certainly should, if possible,
be all on the same level. Of course this has nothing to do with the matter in
dispute, only it is an arrangement which has been too seldom recognised and
is apparently misunderstood. It is when houses are all on the same level that
the principle laid down by Mr Hammond is most easily applied.

Mr Inglis and C. M. may depend upon the correctness of Mr Hammond's
remarks regarding a double circulation in the pipes when the pipes ascend.
Mr Inglis compares the circulation of hot water to the drawing of water by a
syphon. The two principles have nothing in common. Water circulates in
hot -water pipes by reason of the different specific gravities of hot and cold
water. On the other hand, a syphon acts by means of the pressure of air, and
the temperature of the water has nothing whatever to do with it. Mr Inglis
reasons about a heavy column of water pulling a lighter ©ne in its wake, but
cold water will run down. How, then, is it natural for water undergoing a
cooling process immediately it enters a hothouse to run tip-hill in a pipe in
which the hottest water is at the lowest part of it ? It is, as Mr Hammond
says, in this case that a double circulation takes place, or the heat would
never advance. Both Mr Inglis and C. M. lay great stress on heated water
having a tendency to rise, and hence they consider that what is termed a flow-
pipe ought to rise. Being unfortunately bothered with a heating apparatus
which they consider properly lixed, I find it the best possible illustration of
Mr Hammond's views. Water is heated very slowly indeed by conduction ; and
I venture to say there is not an apparatus anywhere where the flow-pipe has
a continuous rise in which the colder water is not returning silently at the
under side of the pipe, while the warm current at the upper side is going in the
opposite direction. Water in a hot-water apparatus should not be wanted to
heat by convection ; and if it does, there must be something wrong — and that
something is a rising flow-pipe, which is wrong in principle and wrong in
practice.

C. M. asserts that the point furthest from the boiler is the hottest when
the pipes rise to that point. Does he mean by this that the water gains heat
instead of parting with it to heat the air ? The fact is, it begins to cool the
moment it leaves the boiler, and the point where it enters the hothouse ought
to be its highest. If it were as C. M. asserts, we ought to take the pipes a
long round-about up-hill, for the sake of the heat they would gain. Not to
enter further into the subject, I consider Mr Hammond's reasoning the most
correct teaching I have yet met with on heating by hot water. A. H.

i379-] HOT-WATER CIRCULATION. 271

HOT -WATER CIRCULATION.

It is not likely that anything new can be added to what is already known
on the subject of hot-water circulation — the whole matter has again
been made plain by your correspondent, Mr J. Inglis. The heat from
the fire rarefying the water, disturbs its equilibrium, and the warmed
particles through their buoyancy, like a cork, are forced to ascend, and
the cold water, from its greater density, descends to fill its place. It is
quite easy to see, however, that your able correspondent, Mr Hammond,
is right so far. For a time a counter-current must be produced in the
same pipe, the heated water flowing along the upper curve of the pipe,
and the cold returning along the under side, like water in the eave-
gutter. One's hand placed first on the upper surface and then on the
under side of the pipe, will at once prove the truth of this ; and this
fact may appear to retard the circulation for a short time, supposing a
fire just lighted under a cold boiler. This appears to be all Mr Ham-
mond contends for, although his facts may not quite justify his conclu-
sions. The illustration of the siphon is used to explain the movement
of the water, and though it does not explain all, it is true as far as it
goes : the balance of weight in favour of the cold water running down a
perpendicular pipe or an inclined plane must accelerate the circulation,
if it does not originate it. A very curious instance of the effect of the
cold water in deciding the course of the circulation once took place
in our experience. It was in this wise : a boiler with three distinct
sets of pipes attached was just out of the hands of the mechanics,
and all concerned were impatient to see the apparatus tested. One
set of pipes was all but on a level with the boiler, another set was
some 5 feet and the third set was 10 feet above the boiler. Each
set was laid nearly level, but with a perpendicular dip where attached
to the boiler. It is with the 10-feet set we have to record our ex-
perience more particularly. A good fire was first made to heat
the flues and dry the boiler outside, then water was slowly poured
into the apparatus down the flow-pipe of the 10-feet set, when very
soon the warm water was circulating in the lowest set of pipes, but
as the filling proceeded, these again grew cold, and the middle set
became warm. The filling went on as described down the flow-pipe
of the upper set into the boiler, when the warm water gradually rose
up the return pipe, flowed round, and finally arrived by that route
into the flow, where the cold water was being run off at a small expan-
sion-box over the boiler. The filling finished, to our temporary aston-
ishment the circulation continued the reverse way, the warm water
rising in the return pipe and returning to the boiler down the flow-
pipe. This was to all appearance reversing the order of nature. We
have somewhere read that the laws of nature are the same all the world
over, except in Ireland ; but the above incident took place in England,
where the laws of mechanics and those relating to liquids work har-

979

THE GARDENER. [June

moniously, and consequently those of nature could not really be re-
versed this time : the water was only wrong in taking the wrong course,
the pipes being new and coming from Scotland. A iter logically settling
this point, the whole on reflection was explained by the fact of there
being 10 feet of perpendicular pipe, which contained continuously the
coldest and consequently the heaviest portion of the water, and out-
balanced the warm water rising in the return. We suffered much men-
tal uneasiness in having the laws of nature thus apparently treated so
contemptuously by our new apparatus ; so after a few weeks' action, and
no change likely to be voluntarily effected in its behaviour, we stopped
the fire and cooled the water, and started afresh, this time with full
pipes and a proper and orderly course of procedure on the part of the
water. The share which the principle of the siphon has in the circu-
lation of hot water was thus very excellently and accidentally illus-
trated. The boiler, from the nature of the position, was not sunk in the
earth, although so much below the upper set of pipes. But after all,
the fire is the great mover of the water, as the sun moves the winds :
and as an eminent horticultural writer some years ago lucidly ventilated
and illustrated the theory of hot- water circulation by showing the effects
of the sun in originating the Gulf Stream, whereby the climate of these
fortunate islands was maintained at a forcing-house temperature ; and
as the water is made to move in a system of pipes independently of the
auxiliary principle of the siphon ; — so, after all, the sinking of boilers in
deep stoke-holes may not be an expedient of such necessity, if some other
auxiliary can be substituted for the siphon. As the cold water, from
its density, has a drawing power down an inclined plane, so hot water,
from its rarity, may be made to exercise a lifting power, like a balloon,
or like smoke up a chimney.

We have known more than one heating-apparatus erected with the
view of taking advantage of this effect of heated water, the motive
power on the fire being above the level of the return, in consequence
of the difficulty of sinking the boiler. I may say the whole of the pipes
connected with the boiler were return-pipes, with just this exception
that the heated water rose at once to a considerable height above the
boiler, 9 feet at least, where it was discharged into an expansion-box,
and thence distributed to the various houses by other pipes opening
into the expansion-box — the return-pipes, so to speak, entering level into
the bottom of the boiler. The apparatus worked satisfactorily : the
gardener was a well-known prize-taker at the district shows. By this
plan several difficulties of doors and passages were overcome, which
could not have been effected on the siphon principle. One other
apparatus we remember, on a large scale on the same principle, fixed
by Messrs Weeks. There really seems no reason why of necessity boilers
should be fixed below the level of all the pipes : we should, of the two,
prefer the siphon principle, of course, as being the most compact and
most efficient in application, the law of gravitation being antagonistic

1879] A PLANT-HOUSE. 273

to the other ; but where difficulties of drainage or deep excavation or
approach are to be contended against, the lifting principle might be
adopted with advantage. It is well understood in an apparatus on the
siphon principle, if any part of the return-pipe dips below the bottom
of the boiler, there the coldest water will lie, and act as an effectual plug
against the circulation ; but by the use of the perpendicular pipe dis-
charging the heated water at once into an elevated expansion-box, and
thence being distributed, there seems no reason why the boiler should
not be actually above the level of the return pipes, for by this means
the boiler is made simply an enlarged gland or portion of the pipes. It
once was our duty to stoke a boiler which was no boiler at all, but only
a spiral coil of 4-inch pipes, the return being of course the bottom of
the coil. The water, in its course through the various houses and apart-
ments heated, had to pass through many ups and doivns, at one place
through a succession of pipes placed vertical and parallel, and connected
by siphon-bends top and bottom. The apparatus worked perfectly, but
great attention was required that no air should accumulate at any of the
bends, as if it did, the circulation was impeded at once. Water was sup-
plied from a ball-tap at a considerable elevation above the highest point
of the pipes. Heating by hot water has so generally been carried out on
the siphon principle, that public opinion has become settled that there
is no other mode whatever. The fact that it is the most convenient, and
can be applied in all but very exceptional cases, has had a tendency
so to settle the matter ; but we agree with the editor in saying that the
whole subject is worthy of discussion, to our mutual gratification and
instruction. The Squire's Gardener.

A PLANT-HOUSE.

To any one about to build, and who wants a really good plant-house,
I would suggest one of similar size and construction to that shown
in the accompanying section, p. 274. What is worth doing at all is
worth doing well. There is a general want of room in a great majority
of plant-houses. They are very often built too narrow, under the im-
pression that they will cost ever so much less than if they were wider.
This, I think, is more imaginary than real, as any one will find out
by a little calculation, or by submitting plans of a narrow and wide
house for an estimate to any horticultural builder, and compare the
extra cost with the extra accommodation. Plants, like animals, re-
quire some body of atmosphere to breathe, and if a lot of plants are
crowded into a small house, the air will become vitiated in the same
way as it would when animal life is shut up. To enclose a good
body of atmosphere without having high side-lights and a high-pitched

274

THE GARDENER.

[June

1879.] A PLANT-HOUSE. 275

roof, a considerable width of house is necessary. High side-sashes are
objectionable (except for very large specimens), on account of their
placing the roof so far from the plants. And I think high-pitched
roofs are also objectionable, because in hard weather heat is more apt
to be driven from them by the force of the wind than in roofs of a
lower pitch. In houses that are too high in proportion to their
width, the ventilation in windy weather approaches to something
like a draught or blast of cold air, which generally makes the atmo-
sphere of the house anything but favourable.

Most gardeners are ready to admit the desirability of a regular
temperature being maintained where they have their choice plants ;
and I am sure there are few men who have not had their patience tried
in endeavouring to do this in small houses. They are quickly heated
by the sun, and as rapidly cooled by frost and cold winds — span-
roofed houses, of course, much more so than lean-to.

Our section represents a house 20 feet wide inside. Opposite the
pipes in the side wall are a series of ventilators IS inches by 9 inches,
closed by wooden shutters fitted to slide backward and forward on
the inside of the wall, so that they can be used in all weathers. A
lath or iron rod can be attached to each shutter, and by means of a
level the whole can be opened together. The side sashes and those
of the lantern may be worked by the usual rod-and-lever so com-
monly adopted. A heavy roof like this would require some support,
and that might be supplied by iron pillars similar to that represented
in our fig. at convenient distances along the centre of the house.
The side stages I have represented rather lower than we generally see
them. To see a plant to advantage, place it on a low stage, or on the
ground. It is quite a mistake, I think, to have plant-stages 2 feet G
inches or 3 feet high. If the above stages were made 2 feet G inches
high, the pots would be upon a level with the top of the wall-plate,
and so will be continually subjected to the draught from the side
lights when these are used, and will therefore be continually getting
dry, not so much through what the plant absorbs as through the
drying effect of the air (and in many cases through the direct action
of the sun) on the pots. If the stage is a foot below the level of the
wall, the air will circulate amongst the plants without having that
objectionable tendency to dry the soil in which they are growing.
To avoid the dry heat from the pipes, the side benches should be
covered with an inch of fine gravel or rough sand. Under the centre
stage is a convenient place for a tank for rain-water. The pipes
shown in plan will be sufficient for a stove.

E. Inglis.

276 THE GARDENER. [June

LILIUM GIGANTEUM.
13 y far the most stately and handsome both as regards habit of
growth and foliage, this noble Indian species is by no means
deficient of that rich floral beauty so conspicuous in every member
of the tribe to which it belongs.

On its first introduction to British gardens some thirty years ago, it
created quite a sensation among horticulturists, and was soon widely
distributed over the country. It is now, however, seldom met with in
collections — a fact much to be regretted, as few plants are more effective
in the midsummer decoration of the conservatory or lofty greenhouse.

Having drooping trumpet - shaped flowers, it is grouped in the
Eulirion section of the genus. The stem rises to heights of from six
to ten feet, the flowers being clustered at the top : they are of a fine
waxy white colour, the interior delicately streaked with violet crimson,
and most deliciously fragrant. The fine, broad, heart-shaped leaves
at the base of the stem are a foot or more in length, becoming gradu-
ally smaller as they ascend : they are bright glossy green, and render
the plant very attractive, apart altogether from the flowers. It is
nearly hardy, and will withstand the rigours of an ordinary winter in
the open border if protected with a mulching of a few inches of leaves
or manure. The young foliage, however, is so tender and liable to
suffer injury from the cold cutting winds and late frosts of spring,
that pot-culture and the wintering of the plants in a cool house or
cold frame are the most satisfactory practice, particularly for those that
are intended for the conservatory. They are found to thrive well in
turfy loam enriched with a liberal allowance of well-rotted stable-
manure, with the addition of as much sharp sand and charcoal, not
broken too small, as will render the compost sufficiently porous.
As the bulbs exhaust themselves in flowering, it is necessary to keep
up a supply of succession plants, which are usually obtained in suf-
ficient numbers in the form of offsets from the parent plants for the
requirements of even a large establishment. They should be shifted
into larger pots from time to time as they gather strength, taking care
that the roots are mutilated in the operation as little as possible.
Autumn is a very good time for shifting, but some prefer early spring,
so soon as the bulbs begin to show their leaves. Such of them as
give indications of throwing up flower-stalks should have extra large
pots — not less than 12 or 14 inches in diameter. An abundant supply
of water is essentially necessary for their wellbeing during the growing
season, and they will be much benefited by an occasional supply of
weak liquid-manure. No artificial heat is necessary at any stage of
their growth. As much air as possible should always be allowed, and
the plants should be fully exposed to the sun. Hugh Fraser.

1879.] THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

Owing to the exceptionally late and cold season, many gardeners will be
unwilling to fill the flower-beds under their charge as early this year as
usual. As a matter of fact, most of the subjects planted at the orthodox
period would, in most seasons, be all the better of being left out of the
ground for a week or two later. The difference in growth and flower-
ing qualities displayed by such things as Verbenas, Lobelias, &c, when
planted at a time that they are able to rush away into growth at once,
instead of hanging on in a semi-torpid condition until the temperature of
earth and air gets warmer, is very marked. We have noticed this re-
peatedly, and in our own case will so far act on it as to plant nothing
except the hardier kinds of bedding-plants before June. Everything
up to this date is still under cover ; and though it somewhat dis-
arranges one's plans to have houses and pits full of bedding-plants
at the middle of May, it would prove more inconvenient and more
damaging to turn them out of their shelter before the weather gets
warm enough to give them no check. It is somewhat remarkable,
considering the long time the present system of flower-gardening has
been the fashion, that so little attention is paid to the requirements of
the various kinds of plants employed. In the kitchen-garden Cauli-
flowers get a very different kind of treatment from Potatoes or Carrots,
and the wants of Globe Artichokes or Rhubarb are as different as can be
from the requirements of Turnips or of Parsnips — and these varying
wants are appreciated and duly acted on by gardeners ; but when the
flower-beds are turned over, in many cases the treatment is alike for
Geraniums and Verbenas, for Calceolarias or Gazania. It is certain
that Verbenas and Calceolarias, Lobelias, Violas, and Iresines will not
give satisfaction treated year after year like Geraniums. The quantity
of manure that Verbenas and Iresines — Lindeni especially is kept in
view — require to keep them growing, and to keep the former flowering in
a vigorous state, is very great. Stable manure is very suitable for these.
Lobelias and Violas do best manured from the cow-houses. In addition
to a liberal dressing dug into the ground, these may all be treated with
advantage to a mulching of mushroom-dung mixed with soot. Iresines
should not be planted too quickly, — this is such an effective plant when
properly managed that it is worth a little extra care in its cultivation.
Two to three thousand plants of I. Lindeni are used here every season,
and sometimes it is planted in a mixture of half dung and soil, and
mulched after planting. Alternantheras will be tried this year — a few
thousands — also Coleus Verschaffelti ; but these will not be trusted
out till about the end of June at earliest. Both will have a thor-
oughly good trial ; but from former experience we much doubt their
succeeding satisfactorily. Watering causes a deal of extra employment
to flower-gardeners, which might sometimes, at least, be in a great
measure dispensed with. If weather and soil are dry when planting

278 THE GARDENER. [June

is being proceeded with, the plants may be put out into their places
without filling in the soil level round the plants until after a good
watering sufficient to moisten it on all sides, and to a good depth,
has been given. In a short time the beds require to be levelled, and if
a mulching of rotted manure can be spared at same time, most plants
will be in a position to make a start for themselves without further
attention. Watering, unless a necessity, is an evil which ought to be
avoided. Where carpet-bedding is indulged in, a different regime is
necessary with regard to applying water. Owing to the closeness that
the plants are put to each other, watering in dry weather is a neces-
sity that cannot be avoided without harming the appearance of the
beds ; but even here no more than is simply requisite should be given.
It is during the beginning of the season that water is most necessary
here also. Many seedling plants sown in frames in April will be no
more than ready now for pricking out into their places : these comprise
such good autumn-flowering plants as Asters, Phlox Drummondii, and
Marigolds. In dry weather we draw the roots of these through a mix-
ture of soil and water, which keeps the roots fresh until the plants
make a start into the soil. Staking all plants as, or before, they require
it, in mixed borders, is a necessary portion of the work of the month.
The hoe should also be plied now without stint, and all weeds kept
down both on beds and walks. All plants required to be kept low
should be pinched from the first in order to obtain a bushy growth, so
as to do with fewer pinchings later on. Violas and bedding Pansies
will require going over, and all seed -capsules and decaying flowers
gathered off. This, in addition to a mulching of rotted manure, will go
far to keep these in a free-flowering condition. Early-flowering her-
baceous plants, if denuded of flower-spikes as these begin to decay, will
flower again, in many instances, late in autumn. Annuals over-thick
in beds or borders should be immediately thinned out in order to keep
them in a floriferous state till late in autumn. R. P. B.

THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN.

SALADS.

{Continued from page 230.)

Lettuces are in demand wherever they can be obtained. Their cultivation is
very simple, but the way in which small growers treat them generally is not
productive of fine crisp Lettuces. We refer to the practice of sowing them
thickly and never thinning them. To grow them well the soil must be rich,
otherwise they will fail in the most important quality of a good Lettuce — viz.,
crisp tenderness. The very earliest are got from sowings made from the middle
to the end of August, and transplanted in September, when protection can be
afforded them. Cold frames are best for the purpose, and dry light soil on a
well - drained bottom is essential. Air ought to be given on all favourable

1879] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 279

occasions, as a close damp atmosphere is to be guarded against. The hardi-
est Cos varieties are generally grown for this purpose, because they stand
the winter well. All-the-year-round Cabbage-Lettuce, however, stands the
winter very well when justice is done to it while in the frames in the matter
of airing, stirring the surface-soil, &c, to maintain as sweet and dry an atmo-
sphere as possible. These plants should be transplanted in March or April
on a well-sheltered spot, and if room can be afforded them a few left in the
frame will come in a little earlier than the transplanted ones. By the end of
February a small sowing should be made under glass, or in the warmest place
possible outside. Once a month afterwards a small sowing should be made
and the thinnings transplanted, which will furnish as good a succession as if a
sowing were made once a fortnight. Allow them 18 inches between the rows,
and from 9 inches to 1 foot in the row, according to the variety grown and
the state of the soil. A good soaking of sewage or other manure water, and
a mulching of rotten manure, give Lettuces quite a different character from
those grown thickly on poor soils. Some varieties require tying up to secure
the best blanched heads possible, others again do very well without it.

Radishes rank second in the esteem of small growers ; and indeed Lettuces,
Radishes, and Cress are all the salading grown in most amateurs' gardens.
They may be had all the year round when proper appliances exist, and nine
months out of the twelve where a cold frame, or a portion of it, can be devoted
to their cultivation. Under a frame, more especially if there be a little bottom-
beat, a sowing may be made by the end of January, and once a fortnight after-
wards. We have often grown them in a common greenhouse in 6-inch pots
placed near the glass, and where a little air had access to them when the
weather was favourable for airing. In sowing them outside, draw drills the
whole width of the hoe, and scatter the seeds thinly in the bottom of the flat
drill. Cover to the depth of half an inch, and thin, when up, to 2 inches
apart. The way amateurs generally grow them is the way to secure the worst
results ; for good Radishes cannot be grown when the seed is huddled together
in the rows, and the plants allowed to grow in tufts. Rich soil is also an
essential in the production of tender, well-flavoured Radishes. Sowings may
be made as late as the beginning of October ; but for such late sowings a warm
sheltered spot should be chosen, and protection by means of hand-lights, &c,
afforded if possible. These will come in for use during winter.

Mustard and Cress require treatment very similiar to Radishes, so we need
not repeat the directions. Only, a sowing of each should be made once a week
in small patches where there is a little space, and places otherwise vacant can
be thus kept under crop. A rich soil and plenty of water in dry weather
cause them to grow quickly and tender. Late in autumn and early in spring
a supply may be kept up with a few flats and some clear sand or earth in the
kitchen-window or other room where there is a little heat.

These are the more generally grown Salads, at least by amateurs ; but a
paper on Salads would be incomplete were we not to add others which are
occasionally grown, and which amateurs may desire to know something of.

Endive is one of these. It is soon enough to sow Endive about the middle
of July, or even later, up to the end of August. Sow it in the same way as
Lettuce, in good rich soil. It will be ready to transplant in about a month
afterwards. For this purpose shallow trenches should be thrown out with the
spade about 18 inches apart. Plant at 9 or 10 inches apart in the rows, and
water plentifully, unless the weather be showery and moist, which is the best
condition under which to plant them. A soaking of manure-water will benefit

U

290 THE GARDENER. [June

them greatly. They are of no use unless blanched, and the best means of
doing so, on a small scale, is to place flower-pots or boxes over the plants to
exclude the light. Allow them to be a good size before doing this. A few
only should be covered at a time — the cultivator will soon find out the neces-
sary quantity — and when one is cut the pot should be placed over another, so
as to keep up a succession. The later sowings should be treated similarly.
If protection can be afforded them to keep off frost and wind, Endive may be
enjoyed until far on in winter, when its place may be supplied by

Chicory. — This should be sown and treated like Lettuces, so far as the sow-
ing, thinning, &c, is concerned. One foot between the rows is sufficient, and
4 or G inches in the rows. Sow about the beginning of July, and treat the
plants liberally, so as to secure as strong roots as possible. Late in September,
or early in October, the roots should be lifted and planted in pots or boxes pretty
thickly together. Cut the leaves off, but take care not to break the crowns.
Keep them shady and moist for a few days, and afterwards place them where
they will not get frozen. When wanted, these boxes or pots should be placed
wherever there is a little heat, and where light is excluded. A cellar, a warm
closet, under the stage, in the greenhouse — anywhere, where there is a little
warmth, will secure a nice beautiful Salad in the depth of winter.

Dandelion is blanched in precisely the same way, and may be dug up from
the roadside for the purpose. It is best to grow a small bed, howTever, and any
damp out-of-the-way corner will do well. It may be grown from seed as de-
scribed for Chicory, or plants may be dug up for the purpose of filling a bed.
They may also be blanched when they grow, early in spring, by covering them
over with boxes or pots and leaves. Chicory may also be blanched in the same
way.

American Cress is occasionally grown for Salads. Sow from March till
August, at intervals of a month.

Normandy Cress should be sown thinly in March.

Indian Cress is sometimes used in Salads — the flowers being the parts used.

Chives are also sometimes used as a Salad. It is easily grown. They are
propagated by division earl}7 in spring.

Young Onions are oftener used. To furnish these, fortnightly sowings of
common Onions should be made in rich soil. A Gardener.

A FEW WORDS ON THE MARECHAL INTEL ROSE.

Everybody loves the above Rose ; and few plants make such a good
climber for the roof, or for training against a back wall of a greenhouse.
It delights in being allowed to ramble away at will ; but for the sake
of tidiness it must be kept somewhat trained, by being tied to wires,
or to tacks driven into the rafters in the absence of wires. The leading
shoots should be allowed, however, to grow on without stopping them
daring the whole season, and then cut them back, say in January, to what-
ever length may be desired ; they will then break into growth at every
joint, and flower abundantly. Of course, where practicable, they
should be planted out in a well-prepared border.

A plan which we mean to adopt in growing this Rose for forcing,
and which we think will be a very good one, is to grow it on in

1879.] THE MARECHAL NIEL ROSE. 281

pots, as we do Vines for fruiting in pots, either as single rods or by-
leading up two or even three shoots from each. They can be grown
from cuttings, or, if preferred, may be budded in the ordinary way out
of doors, then potted up and brought into some house or pit set apart
for the purpose. They would require to be kept trained up to wires,
just as we do pot- Vines, and fully exposed to light, but must be allowed
to extend their growth without stopping them, else the lateral buds
may break into growth prematurely. Where many cut flowers are
required, a long succession of blooms might be obtained in this way,
by bringing in a few plants every ten days or so to the forcing-pit.

For growing them in this way, cuttings of ripe wood should be put
in about the beginning of February in 6-inch pots, well drained, and
soil made up of two parts leaf-mould and one part of sharp sand. Put
the cuttings in a ring round close to the side of the pots, and plunge
them in a gentle bottom-heat : they will soon root, when they must
be potted off into 3-inch pots, and placed in a warm house or pit,
say in a temperature of about 55°. In the course of two or three weeks
they may be shifted into 6-inch pots, and afterwards into 10-inch
pots, which latter size is quite large enough for them to flower in. The
soil used should consist principally of good loam, with the addition of
a little old cow-dung or a sprinkling of bone-meal, with sufficient sand
to keep all open and porous. If it is intended to take up more than
one shoot, the points should be pinched out when they are about 6
inches high, but afterwards they must be allowed to grow on without
pinching. They must be kept in a warm place until May, when they
will do very well without fire-heat, if closed early in the afternoon.
See that they do not want for water ; and a dewing with the syringe
at shutting-up time will help to keep them clean. Give plenty of air
during the day, as a close stagnant atmosphere tends to produce mildew;
should this appear, syringe them at once with sulphur mixed up in a
pail of water : it does not look so bad when applied in this way as
when dusted on dry, and is quite as effectual in destroying the mildew.
I find that under glass, if not allowed to get dry at the roots, the
Marechal Niel is not liable to be much troubled with greenfly ; but if
any should appear, fumigate in the usual way, or syringe with quassia-
water. About the beginning of September the plants may with ad-
vantage be removed out of doors and tied up against a wall where
they will be fully exposed to the sun : this will greatly assist in ripen-
ing the wood, as on this being properly done depends the quantity and
quality of the flowers which are to follow. The first batch of plants
may be put into heat in January, cutting them back to 8 or 10 feet :
50° will be high enough at first, which may be increased to 55°. They
will soon break away into growth : when the flower-buds are showing,
give an occasional watering with manure-water. We have been led to
make these few remarks from the fact that last year we lifted a young
plant from outside and planted it against the back wall of a new vinery

282 THE GARDENER. [June

planted with the Lady Downes Grape. It was about the middle of
April when the Rose was planted. It threw out several strong shoots,
which were kept tied in, and soon reached the top of the wall (16 feet)
— they were then trained along the wires, so that by the end of the
season they had made growths of about 30 feet in length. In January
these were cut back to about 12 feet, and soon began to burst into
growth, every eye throwing from one to three shoots, and all terminat-
ing in flower-buds; so that at the present time (May 9th) there are, in
every stage of development, on one plant 400 buds, which are regularly
distributed over the plant from bottom to top. The plant was green
all winter, having never yet cast off the foliage of last year, and shows
no signs of doing so — in fact it may be called an evergreen.

J. G., W.

CALADIUM CULTURE.

Caladttjms are a genus of highly ornamental plants of fine growth,
easily cultivated, and requiring a strong moist heat to develop their
beauties ; they should be grown wherever ornamental and beautifully
variegated foliage is admired.

As soon as the bulbs show signs of starting into growth they should
be potted into good turfy loam, a little leaf-mould, well-decomposed
cow-dung and sand, with a good addition of charcoal and bone meal.
In potting, use clean pots, well drained, with a layer of moss over the
crocks ; fill up the pots fully one-half with a portion of the roughest
soil, place the bulbs with a layer of sand at the base of each,
and use the largest bulbs for the largest-sized pots, the size of which
must be entirely regulated by the size of the specimens required
— 12 to 18 inches being a good size for show plants or exhibition
purposes, and small bulbs in 6-inch pots make good decorative plants —
then fill up with some of the finer soil, pressing all gently down with
the hand, and leaving plenty of room for water, which must be used
very sparingly at first, till the plants throw out roots ; and after they
progress in size and strength the quantity can be gradually increased.
A more vigorous growth can be induced by using guano-water occa-
sionally; but we prefer shifting them into larger-sized pots when they
become pot-bound, as the foliage loses part of its rich colour when
stimulants are used.

When the sun is very strong they will require to be shaded, and
gently syringed on fine days early in the afternoon, in common with
the other occupants of the stove. They can also be well grown in a
vinery, where room is a consideration, but they never develop their
beauties so well under the shade of the Vines. As soon as they begin
to fade in the autumn, less water should be given, gradually decreasing
the quantity until it is entirely withheld. After growth has stopped,
and the bulbs fully matured, the foliage should be all cleared away,

1879] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 283

and the pots put under the stage in the stove, or any other place with
a cool, moist bottom, so that the roots can absorb a little of the moist-
ure, which will keep the bulbs plump, and prevent the watering-pot
being used so often during the time they are at rest. They must not
at any time during the resting period be allowed to become dust-dry,
or the corms will suffer, if not decay altogether. An early growth may
be encouraged by potting early in the season, and plunging the pots in
a strong bottom-heat, and maintaining a warm, moist atmosphere.

When any flowers make their appearance on the plants they should
be instantly nipped off ; and if an increase of stock is required, the
bulbs can be divided with a sharp knife into small bits, with an " eye "
to each, after growth has commenced. Dundonian.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

Is not the character of the ' Gardeners' Chronicle ' in the matter of
"copy" above suspicion? It neither steals from others nor permits
its own to be stolen, if it can put in a claim; and it would be absurd to
suppose that so learned and expert a body as the editor and staff
could be gulled to the extent of having the productions of a well-
known author foisted upon them as original ! Oh no ! The poetry
of the ' Chronicle ' is " original," and " J. Downie " is its poet ! But
" J. Downie's " poetical genius is much more manifest in the matter
of selection than in that of retouching. It is bad enough to "con-
vey " another man's verses body-bulk ; but the offence is tenfold
aggravated when the appropriator spoils these verses by his own
silly alterations. Still, if Downie and the ' Chronicle ' will pardon
us parodying their style, we would say —

Wi' his capers naebody can thole,

For the verses,* ye ken, were just " stole "

Frae Wingate's sad lay,t

And the very next day

The { Chronicle ' printed the whole —

The whole —
The ' Chronicle ' printed the whole !

After this we may be prepared for meeting with any of our old
acquaintances in the "Original Poetry" corner of the 'Chronicle,'
and it would not surprise us to hear that the editor has accepted
Shelley's " Sensitive Plant," or Burns's " Wee, modest, crimson-
tippit flow'r," from the pen of its gifted correspondent.

* "Jack Frost" in 'The Gardener's Chronicle,' April 19th, 1879.
f 'Annie Weir, and other Poems.' By David Wingate. William Black-
wood & Sons, Edinburgh and London : 1866.

2S4 THE GARDENER. [June

The past long and severe winter, and the prolonged low temperature of the
spring, also now gone, continue to excite unusual comment. Even people
whose occupations do not lead them to take so much interest in the weather
as gardeners and farmers are beginning to be disquieted at the weird aspect of
the season. Summer is here, and yet vegetation is almost as completely at
rest as it was at midwinter, and snow and frost have prevailed in many places.
Farmers are unprecedentedly late in getting their spring crops in, and fear that
now these will not ripen unless the few remaining months during which we
can expect any real warmth are unusually favourable. As an indication of
the continued low state of the temperature during the last eight or nine
months, we were the other day shown some Cauliflower plants that were
sown last August, and in September pricked out into a frame, where they had
remained until the beginning of the present month of May without having
made any perceptible growth during a period of seven months. The plants
were not more than 3 inches high ! Let us not meet our troubles half-way,
however, but hope that we shall have both seed-time and harvest as usual.

Can the collective ingenuity of the Scottish Horticultural Association sug-
gest nothing better— nothing more likely to promote the interests of horti-
culture— than a competition for the best "kitchen-garden plan," a subject
which we thought had been pretty well settled ? A vegetable-garden can very
often all be a square plot, and the chief difficulty of the designer lies in
contriving the best way of getting round the same with a wheelbarrow. This
the successful winners of the Society's prize have managed to show can be
done, by adhering to the old style adopted in every kitchen-garden in the
kingdom, down to the cottager's allotment ; and it will be no doubt pleasing
to them to be told by "a competent garden architect" that "they have
eich aiopbed the form best adapted for a kitchen-garden." Let it be under-
stood, however, that we do not find fault with the clever-going gardeners who
drew the plans — they could only operate on the lines set out for them by
the S. H. A., and they have shown their good sense and judgment by
adhering to the old style, which, indeed, they could not well have improved
upon. There is, however, a partial revolution going on in kitchen-garden-
ing itself that might have been opportunely taken notice of, and that is
the system of keeping the fruit and vegetable gardens distinct. In these
days, when gentlemen can buy many kinds of fruits and vegetables almost
cheaper than they can produce them at home, the subject of remunerative
kitchen-gardening is attracting a good deal more attention, and gardeners are
finding out that their success is now measured by the marketable value of
their productions a great deal more than it used to be; and consequently the
question how to lay out and crop a kitchen-garden to the best advantage is
the one concerning which gardeners have need to learn most at the present
time, and we commend the subject to the attention of those who wish to
encourage horticulture in the way indicated by the Scottish Horticultural
Association. We have said that no great alterations are suggested in the
formation of the vegetable quarters of a garden ; but how to reduce the extent
and labour of keeping garden walks and borders — how to keep the orchard
and vegetable departments separate with advantage to both — and above all,
how to utilise necessary or existing garden-walls, by covering them with glass
instead of erecting independent glass structures in another part of the ground,
and at great and extra expense, for a similar purpose, — are questions which
those who aspire to teach us anything on the subject should study. In this
respect our enterprising horticultural builders are ahead of gardeners them-

1879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 285

selves, and suggestions have been already offered on the subject by the editor
of this paper.

A correspondent of one of the daily papers in the provinces writes as follows
on the subject of dishonest proceedings at flower-shows : "I can speak from
a good deal of experience, and can truly affirm that the days of horticultural
shows are numbered, unless nefarious practices are put a stop to. Exhibitors
who are honest are disgusted at being deprived of what they have honestly
won, and subscribers are in many instances declining to patronise or connect
themselves with what they rightly deem a disgrace to the place. I could en-
large this letter considerably by giving numerous instances of the variety of
frauds practised, but as they are generally known I scarcely think it necessary.
If, however, committees having the management and appropriation of money sub-
scribed for the encouragement or improvement of cottage-gardening would take
such measures as will prove of use in putting a stop to the evil, they will merit
the approval of every one, and will succeed in raising floral exhibitions from
the slough of despond into which they are fast falling to a state in which they
will be what they are designed to be — a great and lasting benefit to the public."

These remarks allude to certain revelations that had been made concerning
fraudulent practices at flower-shows, and now quite common, it would appear,
and practised with impunity.

A correspondent of 'Gardening Illustrated' says: "The Sunflower is a
most valuable sanitary agent. This I proved to my entire satisfaction whilst
living in the environs of an eastern city of the United States, where bad drain-
age and a hot sun — aggravated by the habits of a population ignorant of all
hygienic law — aroused me to the necessity of some safeguard. This was the
Sunflower (Helianthus), started early in pots and planted out when half a foot
high. They soon formed a grove in the very stiff clay soil of which your cor-
respondent of No. 4 complains. Jerusalem Artichokes, as a vegetable, will do
for him what these Sunflowers did for me. In a year or two, with generous
manuring, they will change yellow clay into a moderately light soil of a darker
hue. My family, and those of two immediate neighbouring cottages, were the
only ones that escaped unscathed from the smallpox epidemic. Chicken
cholera also raged around and cleared entire hen-roosts. Mine was untouched
by it. The stems of those Sunflowers which bordered the garden I utilised by
trimming off all leaves and laterals for bean stalks and supports for climbing-
flowers. The seeds, of which I had several bushels, served to fatten my fowls.
They ate it when they refused the more usual fare of maize. The stems, when
dry, I burnt for potash. No other vegetable matter contains so much of this
(to the gardener) valuable alkali."

The following plan from the ' Journal ol Horticulture ' of fumigating hot-
houses is, we think, worth mentioning. The plan is simple, convenient, and
effective, apparently : —

" Fumigating. — I beg to submit to your smoke-poisoned inquirer ' S.A.Y.,'
page 247, an easy and cheap method of fumigating in safety. Have a 6-inch
flower-pot resting on an old gridiron, or two or three pieces of iron rod, on the
top of two herring boxes or bricks the height you want, leaving space between
for a candlestick, and place your apparatus near the door ; fill the pot with
tobacco-paper torn in pieces half the size of your hand, do not press it too
firmly, place a lighted candle close to the hole in the pot, and the work is done
for a house 14 feet by 12. You can open the door to take out the candle, or
you can leave it to burn out."

A horticultural writer in a provincial paper says that at Stevens's Rooms, the

286 THE GARDENER. [June

other day, plants of " Odontoglossum maxillarium and 0. Alexandra were
pointed out to him which had been potted in common garden earth, just as a
cottager would pot a Fuchsia for his window. These had been grown among
other plants in a hothouse, and had made bulbs larger than those of the pre-
vious year." It may be mentioned that we have seen thousands of the Odonto-
glossum roots — chiefly 0. Alexandras, gloriosa, triumphans, and others — just
as they came out of the ship and as they had been gathered, and we have
often thought, from the debris still adhering to the roots, that the plants did
not look as if they had been grown in such a compost as sphagnum, but in stones
and soil, kept moist probably by copious rainfalls during their season of growth.
Some of the plants had dead flower-stems on them, that must, when plump and
fresh, have been as round and plump as one's finger, and some feet in height,
the stump left being some 9 inches long. There is nothing to complain of in
the success attained by our hothouse methods of culture, but if such plants can
be grown successfully in common garden soil, it will simplify their culture to
some extent. While on this subject, we notice that your old and valued corre-
spondent, Mr F. W. Burbidge, is contributing an account of his experiences as
a collector of Orchids to one of your contemporaries. Would that plant-
collectors had sooner begun to tell us of the conditions under which the plants
they sent home were found growing naturally. Thousands and thousands of
plants have been sent home from time to time simply to be killed, because the
necessary information as to their habits and conditions of existence did not
accompany them. The reticence of collectors on this head has hitherto been
wholly inexplicable. Reader.

GARRYA ELLIPTICA.
About a year ago a correspondence was carried on in the pages of a
contemporary regarding the hardiness of this well-known shrub, which
was disputed by some of the writers. Looking at its adaptation for
general planting from a climatic point of view, it appears to thrive
well under very different conditions in this respect. When on a visit
to Ardmillan Gardens about the middle of March, two fine specimens
were brought under my notice which were loaded with half-developed
flowers. Being interested to see such fine specimens of this favourite
shrub, I took the liberty of stepping round them for the purpose of
getting some idea of their dimensions, and calculated the circumference
of each plant at about 25 yards, I thought it a pity to see such fine
plants maltreated to such an extent with the knife, as they presented
almost a hedge-like appearance.

In your April number Mr Garret informs us of a plant of Garrya
elliptica at Whittinghame of nearly the same dimensions as those I
have referred to, also doing well. As the difference of the mean
temperature on the coast of south Ayrshire, where Ardmillan is situ-
ated, and that of East Lothian, is considerable, particularly in winter,
it may reasonably be inferred that whatever be the conditions un-
favourable to success in the cultivation of the shrub in question,
climate is not a matter of so much importance as may often be
attached to it. D. Mackie.

1879.] THYRSACANTHUS RUTILANS. 287

THYRSACANTHUS RUTILANS.

This old but most useful flowering plant, with its long drooping spikes
of scarlet flowers, which it produces in the dark days of winter, is worthy
of more attention, and should be grown on a larger scale than it is in
many places. Where such plants are appreciated for table decoration,
the Thyrsacanthus, when well grown, is an admirable plant for the
purpose, or for the ornamentation of a warm conservatory, or any plant-
house where there is a little warmth in winter.

We too frequently find in many places a straggling half-starved speci-
menr^amongst a collection of mixed stove-plants subjected to a too high
temperature, in which, with its two or three small leaves on its top, it
struggles hard to exist. Under such conditions it becomes a prey to
insects, and the cultivator takes a dislike to it and discontinues grow-
ing it. When well grown it is a charming plant, and a striking object
in whatever position it is placed.

To grow the plant well, cuttings should be inserted in small pots
during April and May— the latter month is not too late. They root
very soon in a moderate heat in the propagating frame. They should
be shaded from strong sun until rooted. When the cuttings are rooted
they should be transferred into 4-inch pots, using a compost of loam
and sand, and a seventh of well-decomposed manure, and should be in
a temperature of 55° by night ; and when well established they should
be gradually hardened off and placed in a cool frame or house ; and
when the pots are full of roots they should be transferred into 6-inch
pots. This size is large enough either for table decoration or for the
plant-houses. Care must be taken that the plants do not become pot-
bound before receiving their final shift, for they are very apt to show
flower too early.

After the 6-inch pots are full of roots they should be liberally sup-
plied with manure-water, and occasional applications of soot-water
have a very stimulating effect upon the plants. Those required for
table decoration should be stopped two or three times during the
season, to make them dwarf bushy plants : the remaining portion of
the stock are best not stopped. When the nights begin to be cold in
September the plants should be removed where a temperature of 50° to
55° can be maintained. Under this cool system of treatment they will
not be infested with insects, and they will be furnished with healthy
leaves to the bottom ; and during the winter they will be very orna-
mental, and well repay for the little trouble bestowed on them.

A Grower.

288

THE GARDENER.

[June

THE NEW BAMBOO SHADING.

The New Plant and Bulb Company, of Lion Walk, Colchester, have sent us
the accompanying illustration and description of a new shading for hothouses
which they have brought out. We think very highly of it, especially for
moderate-sized houses and pits. The arrangement of having the shading
elevated a foot above the glass is a step in the right direction for the purpose
of keeping down the heat of houses in summer, for so fixed it does so more
effectively than when lying on the glass.

A -«

3

In A compartment — the Bamboo Mat partially unrolled, with box at top
complete for its protection — the mode of rolling up — the staples, at the bottom
of the box inside, to which the upper edge of the mat is attached by stout
twine— are shown.

In B compartment — the cover of the box has been removed to show the mat
rolled up when not in use.

CC are the bearers upon which the mat is supported, 10 to 12 inches above
the level of the glass.

DD, the screw pulleys round which the cords run to pull up the mat.

To let down the shading, loosen the cords which have been fastened to the
hooks placed in the front wall below the glass, the mats will fall down by their
own weight. In rolling up again, see that the cord hangs straight down the
middle of the mat, then pull up steadily and fasten.

The mats are fastened above to five or six staples, firmly driven in at the
bottom of the box cover inside, by tying to them the thick bamboo at end of
mat with strong twine.

It is as well to have a wooden roller tied by string to the lower end of the
mat, to make it roll up more easily.

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The monthly meeting was held on the evening of Tuesday the 6th ult. — Mr
M. Dunn presiding. Mr A. D. Makenzie read a paper on " Economy of fuel in
heating greenhouses with hot water," in which he reviewed the claims and
capabilities of the various boilers which had been patented and recommended
by practical men, and gave as his opinion, founded upon careful and extended

1879.] SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. 289

observation, that no boiler had as yet been invented at once so powerful and
so economical as that well known as the horizontal flued saddle. A communi-
cation was read from Mr Arch. Fowler, Castle Kennedy, on the "Setting
of Grapes," giving his experience of some of the shy -setting varieties, and
recommending the shaking or tapping of the stems while the flowers were
expanded, with the view of scattering the pollen, so that each of the stigmas
might receive a sufficient quantity for fertilisation. Mr George M'Clure, The
Gardens, Trinity Grove, next read a paper on the " Cyclamen," in the culture
of which he had been remarkably successful. For soil, he recommended a mix-
ture of good loam and leaf -mould, enriched with well -decomposed manure,
with the addition of a sufficient quantity of sharp sand to render it porous.
During the growing season the plants should have a light airy situation, and
care should always be taken to give them an abundant supply of water. When
the leaves were decayed and the bulbs in a state of rest, less water was
necessary, but they should never be allowed to become completely dry. Mr
Alexander Macmillan, Broadmeadows, sent a communication on "Zonale Pelar-
goniums," in which he gave some details of his experience of them as winter-
blooming plants. His practice was to plant them out in a border of rich soil
in the greenhouse, where they flowered with the utmost profusion. Each of
the papers was freely criticised, and on the motion of the chairman, votes of
thanks were cordially awarded to the authors.

On the recommendation of the Council, the meeting agreed to offer prizes of
£3, £2, and £1 to under-gardeners members of the Association, for the three best
herbariums of British plants collected between May 1879 and February 1880.

Among the subjects tabled for exhibition we noted a collection of seedling
Alpine Auriculas, of very superior quality, from Mr M'Clure, one of which,
named "Colonel Wood," it was reported, had been awarded a first-class cer-
tificate by the new-flowers committee. Mr James Hunter, Lambton Castle,
sent a basket of Valeriana Phu-aurea, a hardy herbaceous plant used at
Lambton for spring bedding. It seems strange that this fine old golden-leaved
plant has been so long overlooked for this purpose. Mr Robertson Munro
had a small but very select lot of Alpine plants. Messrs Dicksons & Co. sent
a miscellaneous collection, including well -flowered specimens of Forsythia
Fortuneii, a hardy Japanese shrub covered with its golden blossoms ; Rhodo-
dendron Broughtmanii aurea, a yellow-flowered cross between a Rhododendron
and Azalea sinensis ; Valeriana Phu-aurea ; a number of fine-flowered seedlings
of Primula denticulata, with various shades of colour. These had been grown in
the open air, and when seen in the borders must have been very effective. Mr
Thomas J. Ware, Tottenham, London, sent a number of blooms of early forc-
ing Pinks, which were admired for their brilliant colours. Messrs Ireland &
Thomson had a number of very interesting and showy Amaryllis blooms ;
Messrs Downie & Laird, a stand of a superior strain of Mimulus ; and Mr
M'Leod, Royal Blind Asylum, blooms of Petunias.

We would again urge upon the Council the importance of making some provi-
sion for inspecting the exhibits sent from month to month to the meeting. On
this occasion it was next to impossible for one-half of the members present to get
even a glance at a part of them, huddled together as they were on a table not
half large enough to show them to advantage, and many of them without
either labels or exhibitors' names attached. Could a separate room not be got
for this purpose, so that members and visitors might leisurely examine them ?
Certain we are that they are second to none of the matters of interest brought
before the Association.

290

THE GARDENER.

[June

(Dbihiarn £Toti«.

We regret to have to announce the death of Robert Miln, Esq., at his seat
near Arbroath, on the 13th inst., at the age of 84. Mr Miln was a liberal
patron of horticulture, and had a passionate love for Orchids. His collection
contains many fine specimens, especially of cool Orchids. Amongst hot Orchids,
his plants of Phalgenopsis Schilleriana have long been famous, having gained
awards in London aud Edinburgh : in the latter town he showed a grand
specimen of this noble Orchid at the last spring show, and it was the admira-
tion of all who saw it.

Mr Miln was greatly respected by all who had the pleasure of his acquaint-
ance, for the kindness of his heart as well as for the clearness of his judgment.
His extensive collection of Orchids will, it is to be feared, be dispersed.

©aUnfcar*

KITCHEN -GARDEN.

Up to the middle of May we hear of great
difficulty in raising seedlings ia kit-
chen - gardens. The long continued
frosty weather and cold easterly winds
are trying in the extreme. "While we
write there is little improvement on
the past weather. Copious rain has
fallen, and is succeeded by north-east
winds unusually severe. On the 10th
May we had 8° of frost ; in some low-
lying places near this they had 12°.
Under such circumstances, the diffi-
culties we hear so much of are not
inventions, but stern realities. Those
who have cold pits and frames at com-
mand to raise their Brassicas, &c, are
safe ; and we think, considering the
trouble with birds, slugs, &c, it is the
cheapest method of raising seedlings.
Portable frames and plant-protectors,
such as Bolton's, Clarke's, and others,
are perhaps the most useful and ser-
viceable. We have, on borders and
sheltered places this season, done much
with squares formed with bricks —
others formed with slabs on edge — on
which are placed old lights, thin
mats, and other makeshifs ; but frames
made shallow, light and easily removed
from one position to the other, as
crops may require them, are the best
and cheapest in the end. In some
places in our locality, where new Pota-
toes have often been dug by the end of
May, or early in June, they have not
come through the ground yet. Some we
had under shelter of walls have been
cut down to the surface, and we fear are

now worthless. Brocoli, which we were
considered fortunate in saving (about
100 out of 2000), are not likely to be
of much service. Kale Sprouts and
Savoy Sprouts are the most serviceable
items we have. Out of about 1000
Brown Cos Lettuce and Batavian
Endive (both now of great value) we
have lost none. They were sheltered
from north and east, and planted on
thoroughly trenched ground, with
bottom left very rough for drainage.
There is much more in these amenities,
while preparation for crops is being
made, than some believe. Artichokes
(Globe) are in many places killed.
Where young sprouts from the roots
can be had, they should be taken off
with a heel and planted (in rich ground
well broken) about 3 feet between the
plants. A sowing of Peas and Beans
should be made about the first to
middle of this month in northern and
late localities, and from the middle to
the end of month in warmer and more
southern districts. Early kinds are
best for late sowings in districts
where soil is deep and cool. Peas
are often had from late sowings of
the later kinds till frost takes them.
Veitch's Perfection and Ne Pius Ultra
we have had fine till October in such
positions. They were sown in May,
and topped to make them branch out.
French Beans may be sown to the mid-
dle or end of June ; and where frosts
are early, they could be protected with
frames. Hoops and mats are also use*

I879-]

CALENDAR.

291

f ul in autumn, but cold rains kept off
is of great moment in prolonging the
crop. Borecole of all kinds, Broccoli,
Cabbage, Cauliflower, Savoys, Brus-
sels Sprouts, and every variety of
the Brassica family, will require
attention this month by pricking
out the plants in nursery beds to be-
come strong, or planting out those al-
ready prepared permanently. Ground
which has been under good manipula-
tion during previous years, and now
made thoroughly firm for plants which
have to stand the winter (especially
when such a season as the past has to
be encountered), will give a greater
amount of safety to the crops. Those
who plant with crowbar may be called
lazy gardeners (they, in my opinion,
are the reverse, as it is a formidable
piece of work to plant in this way),
but as far as my observations go, they
may also be termed successful culti-
vators. All who have had experience
with this system know that short,
strong growth is made — much firmer
than loose rich soil produces. Plenty
of room for winter crops is of great
moment in securing hardiness. Cauli-
flower and Cabbage to give supplies
during summer and autumn can hardly
have too rich soil, and it may be
trenched as required. The same ap-
plies to Lettuce, which may now be
sown on very rich soil where it is to
grow for use. Sowing thinly and plant-
ing the best of the thinnings answers
well. Celery should be pricked out
for late supplies : a few inches of solid
manure, placed on a firm surface, and
a little fine soil in which to plant the
seedlings, is the usual practice, and I
think the best for ordinary gardens.
Large market-gardens cannot afford
time and labour for this system of
Celery raising. Plants ready may be
planted out in the ridges prepared for
them— whether in wide ridges to hold
three or four rows, or single and double
rows : in each case plenty of solid
manure should be allowed. We have
found Red Celery do best this season,
and stand the frost better than the
White. Dandelion and Chicory should
be sown, if not already done ; also
Endive of sorts where it is required
early. The latter should have a cool
shady position : it is apt to run to
seed when thus early sown. Onions
for salads should be sown frequently
where they are used for this purpose.
The main crops of Onions require

proper thinning before they become
thickly matted and drawn ; cleaning
and surface-stirring is of much impor-
tance. While they are in their early
stages of growth, dustings of soot
and guano during showery weather is
a capital stimulant, and helps to pro-
duce large finely-formed Onions. Some
are under the impression that large
Onions will not keep well : our ex-
perience is the reverse. Large finely-
formed Onions, with collars small like
cord, bulbs 13 inches to 16 inches in
circumference, are useful, and keep
well to May. Turnips should be sown
every ten or twelve days at this
season, in small quantities to keep
a regular supply ; and avoid the
necessity of sending to table tough
and bitter roots, which is the case
when they are allowed to become old
and stand long on the ground. Es-
pecially if the soil is dry and in a
hot position, thin all such crops in
their early stages : sowing thickly is a
great evil, and one which drives the
spindling crop early to seed. Dust-
ings of quicklime, fine ashes, and soot
do much to prevent the destruction of
the young plants. Radishes require
similar treatment ; and before sowing
the seed during dry hot weather, give
a good soaking to the soil the night
before the seed is cast into the ground.
The thinning of Parsley beds and
Parsnips requires special attention :
those who do not thin, I fear will not
have many to imitate them among the
more advanced school of cultivators.
Where vermin (such as wireworm)
do the thinning, it is a different
thing. Some very old gardeners we
know do not thin their Parsley, but
their name is certainly not "legion."
The thinnings of Parsley, planted on a
border sheltered and free from damp,
will give capital supplies during win-
ter ; and a few lights or other simple
protection to save labour and trouble
during severe frost and snow are
worth their room. Potatoes may now
require a free use of prong or hoe, but
it is well to be cautious not to tear up
the young rootlets, as some do in their
energy to "hoe and earth up : " where
the shaws are very thick it is well to
thin them. Light and air into the
soil is an important matter when the fla-
vour is a desideratum. Spinach should
be sown in shaded and cool, deeply-
worked, and highly-manured land : it
should be thinned in time, or the

292

THE GARDENER.

[June

plants will "run" and become use-
less. When sown between such crops
as Cauliflowers and Cabbage, the plants
are used before their room is required.
New Zealand Spinach is useful when
grown on rich land and plenty of
room afforded. Tomatoes may now
be planted against walls, on back
walls of pits, and in frames. There
are not many places in the south even
where they plant in the open fields.
Those fruited in pots in rich soil and
allowed to root through the bottoms
are fine fruit-bearing plants. When

plenty of fruit are set, give abundance
of liquid-manure, and have all useless
growths taken off before they get to
any size. Cucumbers, Gherkins, and
Vegetable Marrows may now be planted
— first under protection of glass, and
afterwards allowed to run over the
open ground ; always watering them
with tepid soft water, stopping the
shoots above the fruit, thinning in
time, and not over-cropping the plants.
Chillies may be planted in frames.
Keep all surfaces clean and well hoed.
M. T.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — Plants intended to supply
ripe fruit in autumn should start by
the end of this month. If they have
been kept cool and dry, as directed last
month, and are in moderate-sized pots,
there is generally not much difficulty
in getting them to show fruit by sub-
jecting them to increased top and bot-
tom heat. Give them sufficient water
to well moisten the whole soil, and raise
the bottom-heat to about 90° and the air
temperature to 75° at 10 p.m., allowing
it to sink to 70° by 6 a.m. Any of the
plants that show a tendency to grow
instead of fruiting after the first good
watering, should be kept dry for a
time. The set of Smooth Cayennes
intended to start in July, and that
have been growing freely, should be
kept cooler and drier all through this
month. Keep a moist atmosphere
with a high temperature from sun-
heat where Pines are now swelling off.
Keep them steadily moist at the root,
and give clear, weak manure-wrater or
guano every time they are watered.
Syringe the plants every hot day
when the house is shut up, allowing
the heat to run up to 90° or 95° for a
time. Early Queens will be ripe in the
course of this month ; and as soon as
they begin to colour, gradually decrease
the moisture in the air and lower the
temperature a few degrees, and give
air more freely on all fine days, in
order to bring up the flavour to the high-
est point. Give them as much water
at the root as will keep the plants
fresh and active. The drying-off sys-
tem in the case of Pines ripening in
the heat of summer is a mistake. If
more fruits ripen at once than are re-
quired, remove a portion of them,
plants and all, to a cool, airy, and
partially shaded place— such as a vinery

where the Grapes are just ripe. Under
such conditions the fruits keep fresh
a few weeks. Give every attention to
plants that were shifted into their
fruiting - pots in spring. These are
now growing rapidly. Shut up with
sun - heat so that the temperature
stands for a time at 85°, and start the
fires in time to prevent it falling below
75° at 9 p.m. and 70° in the morning.
Give a little air in the morning when
the heat rises above 75°, gradually in-
creasing it till noon, after which de-
crease it in the same way. They may
be lightly syringed overhead every
hot day when shut up. Attend care-
fully to the watering, and keep the
soil moist but not wet, and give weak
guano-water every time they require
watering. The use of fire-heat will
now be at its minimum, and the less
that is necessary to keep up the tem-
perature for Pines in all stages the
better.

Vines. — Keep all Vines from which
the crop has been gathered as cool as
possible. Syringe the foliage occa-
sionally to keep it clean and healthy,
until it has done its work sufficiently
to leave the Vines in a good state for
another season's crop. Leave a mulch-
ing on both outside and inside borders,
to prevent them from becoming too
dry and cracking. All ripe Grapes
should be kept cool and dry by leav-
ing top and bottom air on all night.
Eemove all fresh lateral growths im-
mediately they appear from all early
Vines, so as to concentrate the energies
of the Vines in perfecting the fruit-bear-
ing buds for next season. Give more
air to Grapes that have just begun to
colour, and lessen the air-moisture by
degrees. Examine the borders as soon
as colouring begins, and if at all dry,

i879.

CALENDAR.

293

give a good soaking of water ; and if
the borders are not mulched, let a thin
covering of manure be laid on to pre-
vent evaporation, and nourish the Vines
in the heat of summer. Vines that are
swelling-off their crops should be liber-
ally supplied with water if the weather
be dry and warm. Shut them up early
with sun-heat, rising to 85° or 90°. Put
on a little air for the night between
6 and 7 p.m., and use no more fire than
is necessary to prevent the heat in
Muscat-houses from falling below 75°,
and other varieties 70°, as a minimum
for the night. Should red-spider make
its appearance, attack it immediately
by hand sponging; or where the water
is quite clean, the syringe may be used.
Want of sufficient water at the root
and insufficient ventilation are condi-
tions which favour red - spider, and
these conditions must be avoided.
Late crops now being thinned should
be more freely thinned than Grapes
that are to be cut before winter. And
as Grapes swell very rapidly at this
season, attend to thinning both
bunches and berries immediately they
are the size of Radish-seeds, except
shy-setting sorts, which should be left
uothinned until it can be seen which
are the properly fertilised berries.
Attend regularly to the pinching of
all lateral growths immediately they
appear. Vines planted this spring
will now be getting a good hold of the
border and growing rapidly. Tie them
to the wires as they grow, and allow
those that are to be cut down for per-
manent Vines to make as much foliage
as there is room for without crowding.
Temporary Vines to be cropped next
year should have the laterals stopped
at the second joint. If pot-Vines have
not been already shifted into their
fruiting-pots, let them be attended to
at once. Place them in a light posi-
tion near the glass, and encourage
them by every possible means to grow
freely, stopping them when 6 or 7 feet
long.

Peaches. — Keep Peaches that are
ripe and ripening well ventilated ; and
if any of the fruits are shaded with
leaves, push them aside so that sun
and air can play freely about them
When the early crops are all gatheerd
give the trees a good washing with
the engine ; and if there is any red-
spider on the foliage, mix a hand-
ful of flowers of sulphur with the
water. Give inside borders a good

soaking of water as soon as the crop
is all gathered. Look over the trees
and remove at once any shoots that
are causing a crowd of foliage. Supply
trees that are swelling-off their crop
abundantly with water, in cases where
the borders are inside. Syringe the
trees every fine afternoon when the
house is shut up, with sun-heat at 80°
for a time, and do not let it sink below
65° by morning. Thin the fruit and
tie in the shoots in later houses. Keep
green - fly down in the latest cool
houses by fumigation with tobacco or
syringing with Simpson's Wash. Young
trees planted this season will now be
growing freely ; keep them neatly tied
in to their trellis, and pinch the points
out of any strong-growing shoots that
are getting ahead of the others.

Figs. — "Where the crop is ripening,
keep the air drier, and ventilate more
freely to insure good flavour. As soon
as the first crop is gathered from old
and fruitful trees, give the border a
fresh mulching of good manure, and
water freely to encourage the second
crop now showing on the young wood.
Where there is a fruit at the axil of
every leaf, some of them should be
thinned off, or they will be deficient
in size and the trees will be overtaxed.
The earliest plants in pots now swel-
ling-off their second crops should be
liberally supplied with liquid manure.
An occasional dusting with Standen's
Manure will help them. Figs luxuri-
ate in a warm, moist atmosphere, and
except when the fruit are ripening,
should be freely syringed every after-
noon at shutting-up time.

Melons. — Expose ripening fruit to
all the sun possible, and ventilate
freely. If the weather be bright, do
not let the plants become too dry at
the root. The soil should at this
season be moderately moist till the
crop is perfected. Sprinkle advancing
crops on fine afternoons. Mulch the
surface of the borders in Melon-houses
with rotten dung, to prevent evapora-
tion and the necessity for frecpuent
waterings. Stop the lateral growths
of later crops one joint beyond the
fruit. Impregnate those in bloom, and
plant out more plants to ripen their
crops in August. Sow more seeds for
later crops. A heavy loam is best for
summer crops of Melons, and it should
be beaten firmly in forming the bed.

Cucumbers. — Xow is a good time to
plant out a number of plants in cold

294

THE GARDENER.

[June 1879.

pits or frames for bearing up to the
end of September. This, however,
applies to the south, for in Scotland
Cucumbers rarely do much good in
cold frames. Top-dress those plants
that have been in bearing for some
time with rotten manure and loam,
and water occasionally with liquid
manure. Do not let those now in full
bearing carry too heavy a crop at one
time, or they will exhaust them-
selves. Cut off all deformed Cucum-
bers, stop the young growths at every
joint, and keep thrips and red-spider
down by the use of the syringe and
tobacco-smoke.

Strawberries in Pots. — Those now
ripening their crop will do better in a
cold pit with sun-heat than on shelves
in forcing - houses. They will want
copious supplies of water and plenty
of air when colouring. Plant out all
plants from which the crop is gathered
on rich and deeply - worked ground.
Immediately runners can be had for
layering, get the necessary stock for
next year's forcing layered either in
3-inch pots in rich soil, or place the soil
between the Hoses and lay the plants
on it. For early forcing, the plants
should be shifted into their fruiting-
pits early in July.

—&^s?z£gz<s^s-

gtoticcs to (fcaxxttyanimxtz.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in 'The Gardener' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not for
publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and address
of writer.

An Old Subscriber. — Without more particulars we cannot exactly tell you
why your Vines break irregularly. Vines that are started in too high a tem-
perature are very apt to break irregularly ; and we have known applications
made in winter for the destruction of insects injure the buds, and so cause
an irregular break. But Vines pruned on the spur system seldom break as
yours have done, if in ordinary good condition. We also suspect your Laurus-
tinus has been subjected to a too high temperature. If well established in
properly drained pots, and forced in a temperature a little above that of an
ordinary greenhouse, the blooms will not drop prematurely.

T. F. — Remove the surface of £our Vine-border till you come to the roots,
and put over them 7 or 8 inches of rotten farmyard manure and loam in equal
proportions. You may apply the manure- water as well, at intervals, in the
heat of summer. This, all other things being equal, will stimulate and im-
prove the Vine.

THE

GARDENER

JULY 1879.

EARLY- RIPENING- VARIETIES OF FRUITS, AND
HALES'S EARLY PEACH IN PARTICULAR.

HERE there is a demand for ripe fruits as early in the
year as it is possible to have them, it is of the greatest
importance to make such selections of Pines, Grapes,
Peaches, Nectarines, Strawberries, &c, as not only bear
forcing well by artificial means from midwinter onwards,

but which also come the most rapidly to a state of ripeness. In both
these respects there are very marked differences in the different varieties
of these fruits. No experienced forcer who wanted to present new
Grapes at table in April or May would select for this purpose the
Muscat of Alexandria, although it has probably more good qualities
than any other white or even black Grape. Nor would the Barring-
ton or late Admirable Peaches be selected, though these are noble
varieties in their proper place. Of Strawberries, no one would select
British Queen for ripening early in March, although it is probably yet
the finest late or midseason Strawberry in existence. In their respec-
tive classes these are all first-class fruits, but they are totally unfitted
for very early forcing.

Among Grapes, Black Hamburg has yet no rival for early forcing
as a black variety; Buckland Sweetwater and Foster's Seedling are
popular white sorts for early work, and no doubt they bear forcing
well and ripen early; but it seems strange that such very superior
flavoured Grapes as the white and grizzly Frontignacs are so seldom
met with in early vineries. They are both Grapes that stand forcing
remarkably well, are sure croppers, and come early to maturity. In-
deed for our own choice we much prefer Royal Muscadine, and one or
two other varieties of Muscadine, for flavour, to either Buckland's

x

206 THE GARDENER. [July

Sweetwater or Foster's Seedling. "Where mere appearance is appre-
ciated in preference to flavour, the two last-named may perhaps be
preferable.

The popular early forcing Peaches have been, and are still to a great
extent, Royal George, Abec, Early York, Stirling Castle, &c. No doubt
these varieties have answered the purpose of early forcers well, and
they are good when ripe, and until recently have been found among
the quickest to arrive at a state of maturity. They are now, however,
completely out-distanced for earliness by such varieties as Early Louisa,
Early Beatrice, Hales's Early, and Early Rivers. But we fear the two
first-named are too small ever to become so acceptable as they otherwise
would be. Hales's Early is a large, fine-flavoured, handsome Peach. On
these points there cannot be objections raised against it. Its earliness
is very remarkable. We have before us a ripe handsome fruit of it
from a Peach-house at Chatsworth. From the warmest end of the
same house we have, for comparison, a fruit of Elruge Nectarine, and
from the middle tree of the house, a fruit of Royal George Peach.
The difference is more remarkable than in any similar comparison we
have ever seen. Neither the Peach nor Nectarine from the warmest
end of the house have finished the stoning period, while Hales's Early
Peach is perfectly ripe, juicy, and luscious. The valuable qualities of
Hales's Early Peach for early forcing and ripening is thus most strik-
ingly manifested, as against one of the most popular early Peaches of
the older class. We believe that Early Rivers is a Peach equally early,
rich in flavour, and of large size. There can be no doubt that,
Avhatever may be the fate of the lesser -sized early Peaches, Early
Rivers and Hales's Early will take a prominent position in the supply
of early Peaches.

What is now wanted to match these two early Peaches is a Nectarine
that will ripen nearly about the same time. For long Elruge Nec-
tarine has held a first position as a fine forcing variety, and most
deservedly so. It is a fine high-coloured sort, and a sure cropper.
Hunt's Tawny is, of course, an earlier but not so good a Nectarine
otherwise. It strikes us from what we have seen of Lord Napier that
it must ultimately take a high position as an early Nectarine. It
ripens about a fortnight before Hunt's Tawny, and (Lord Napier) is
perhaps the largest Nectarine in existence, and is excellent in quality ;
but how it will stand forcing from the end of November onwards
through the winter has not, so far as we are aware, been yet well
tested. As a midseason fruit it is one of the most free, and it is
reasonable to suppose that it will also succeed for winter forcing.

In all seasons early ripening varieties of fruits are of much import-
ance, and they have perhaps never been more so than this year, when
early forcing has been found more of an uphill business than perhaps
for half a century. Any information that can be conveyed or received
on this important matter cannot fail to be both useful and interesting,

1879.] THE PHLOX. 297

and we shall be very glad to receive any notes on fruits that our cor-
respondents or readers have proved to be useful, and that excel in

thf\ nnnlit-.v nf parlv rinpnino-

the quality of early ripening.

THE PHLOX.

The merits of this family are so well known, as represented by the
many varieties of the late-flowering and the early-flowering sections
now in cultivation, that it is quite unnecessary to do more than allude
to these. The huge pyramidal heads of bloom borne by the finer kinds
of the late-flowering section, in addition to the rich colours of some
sorts, has somewhat eclipsed the neater growing early-flowering sorts,
notwithstanding the fragrance and waxiness of their flowers as com-
pared with the more popular section. Unfortunately, from a florist's
point of view, the Phlox is much too easy to cultivate. The flower-
loving portion of the community, as a matter of course, look on that as
a point in their favour ; and, accordingly, allow Phloxes, when they get
them, pretty well to follow their own devices, and, permitting them
to grow into huge herbaceous masses, they cull the diminished heads
of bloom, and think them lovely.

Such an easily accommodated plant may, in consequence thereof, be
successfully cultivated without following rigidly any hard and fast line
of culture. The cottager may gain his end for securing strong young-
growths by dividing his old plants quite as effectually as the most par-
ticular of particular florists, who only condescends to grow plants which
are propagated at a certain season and in a certain way. Propagation
by division is the simplest method of rearing young flowering-plants,
and though in disfavour amongst those who cultivate the Phlox for
purposes of exhibition, it is, nevertheless, when gone about at a proper
time and in a proper manner, a very efficient mode of keeping up young
stock. The best time to propagatate by division is about the end of
September,— no earlier, and not much later. It is assumed that no
plants older than three years at most are tolerated. Such plants may
be broken into pieces just large enough to produce from three to five
strong shoots the following season. The ground intended for their
reception having been trenched two or three spits in depth, and man-
ured according to the wants of the soil or the size of the manure-heap,
the divided pieces are to be planted about the same depth as before,
and staked as the operation is proceeded with, in order to keep the
old stems and foliage fresh as long as possible, to secure a grip
of the soil to the young plants, and to mature the buds for a strong
start in spring. These will break away early without suffering any
check to the young shoots, and merely require to have the ground
between the plants pointed when growth has fairly commenced, at the

298 THE GARDENER. [July

same time breaking off all the weakest sprays, the strongest of the shoots-
being selected to make the current season's plant. Five of these are
quite enough to leave, that good heads of bloom may be secured. Other
necessary work consists in putting strong sticks to each shoot at an
early stage of their growth, mulching the surface of the beds with
rotted manure where the soil is naturally poor and light : artificial
manure mixed with soot, or by itself, and applied occasionally in
showery weather, is very beneficial. Plants treated thus will produce
very fine spikes. Plants for producing spikes for exhibition are pro-
pagated from cuttings. These may be successfully struck at any season
of the year. Small healthy root-cuttings make the strongest plants, and
may be successfully struck with about equally good results in the long-
run, either from the young growths produced out-of-doors in spring,
or earlier in the year from cuttings produced from potted plants kept
over the winter in a cool house. In the former case the cuttings will
strike in a cold frame, and may either (after roots are produced) be
planted out in nursery beds, or potted and grown on for producing
flowers in pots the succeeding year, after which the same treatment,
when planted out in beds, will be required as above indicated for
divided plants. In the latter case it is necessary to lift plants in
autumn after the stems are cut down, and pot them up in as small
pots as will conveniently hold the roots without breaking off too many
of these to gain that end. These plants must be wintered in a struc-
ture where they will commence to move into growth shortly after the
turn of the year, so as to have cuttings ready by the beginning of
February. These cuttings are to be broken off at their junction with
the root-stock, and inserted in an open compost in thumb-pots. There
is no better place for putting these than a common dung-frame, a very
useful institution at that season. Here, with a moderately brisk bot-
tom-heat, roots are produced in a comparatively short time. Air will
be constantly required to be left on the frame, in order to keep the
atmospheric temperature low, so that the young plants may have no
inducement to commence weakly growth. When rooted, the pots are
better taken out of the plunging material, on the surface of which they
may stand for a week or ten days, when a shift into 4-inch pots will be
necessary. A compost of loam and mushroom-dung is very suitable for
these, a sprinkling of crushed bones being an advantageous addition.
When potted, do not return them to the dung-frame, unless the heat has
become spent and low. A cold pit or frame without means of artificial
heating suits the plants admirably. There, as the natural heat increases,
the plants will grow slowly but healthily, at the same time filling the
pots with strong roots. By the beginning of April another shift into
C-inch pots will be required. In these the plants will produce each,
a strong spike; though rather late, the early- flowering sorts will flower
at the same time with the established plants of the late-flowering sec-
tion ; and this is therefore a good way to get the finest of these in for

i879-] MANAGEMENT OF FORCING-HOUSES. 299

showing at the autumn exhibitions. The late-flowering sorts are use-
ful for decorating the conservatory late in autumn. The succeeding
year the same plants may be grown on still in pots, shifting them
finally into 9-inch pots, and bringing on three to five shoots for flower-
ing. These make handsome objects where the conservatory is a large
one. Or the plants may be kept over winter in the pots, and early
the succeeding spring planted out into beds prepared as previously ad-
vised for divided pieces. Spikes cut for exhibition very generally flag
or droop shortly after staging. To obviate this to as great a degree as
psssible, insert as much of the stem, with leaves attached, as at all con-
venient in water. By this means an infinitely greater amount of water
is absorbed then when the end of the stem merely is inserted in the
water. Some of the finer kinds for exhibition, as well as for ordinary
decorative purposes, in both sections, are the following : Bryan Wynne,
Lothair, Chanzy, Amabilis, Coccinea, Queen of Whites, Venus, Mrs
Laing, Miss Macrae, Lady Napier, Duchess of Athole, Lilacina, A.
M'Keith, M. Dunn, Princess Louise, Boi des Roses, Vierge Marie,
Madame Moisset, Resplendens Coccinea. These are all strong-grow-
ing and fine varieties, and will form the nucleus of a collection to
any one who wishes to "go in" for the culture of the Phlox.

R. P. Broth erston.

ON THE SUMMER MANAGEMENT OF FORCING-
HOUSES.

The management of forcing-houses in winter and spring has been
treated of so often and so well by several correspondents of ' The
Gardener,' that it would be difficult to write much that is new upon
the subject, viewing the matter merely from a practical standpoint.
I think, however, that the summer management of forcing-houses is
somewhat overlooked, from the fact of the assistance rendered by
the natural agencies of warmth and light. These agencies are not
under-estimated by us : on the contrary, we recognise their fullest
value in forcing at all seasons ; but there should be practical co-opera-
tion working along with these influences in due season.

We have heard it remarked before now that there is a good deal of
repetition in the writings of the present day upon practical horticul-
tural subjects. We think it is well that this should be so, as long as
the matter is of a sound and practical nature, and will bear analysing.
It is good for amateurs ; it is good for those who are enlarging
their horticultural sphere by plodding steps, and who gather much
information from the practical writings of experienced cultivators ;
and it is especially good for young men for whom the horticultural
press has done so much, and is likely to do a good deal more. It

300 THE GARDENER. [July

cannot, we think, be denied that the migrations of young men, and
of some older hands too, is beneficial in so far as the opportunity, if
properly used, may be turned to good account in acquiring experience
in the conduct of every work. We find forcing-houses arranged on
different principles, from the old-fashioned style of forty years ago
down to the most modern ideas of the present day; and he who
desires to add to his store of knowledge, may fairly exercise what
resources he possesses in discriminating between principles which are
the conver.ie the one to the other.

.Now, if we begin with the most common of everyday operations
— viz., that of giving air — we find room for exercising intelligence
of the first order. There may be those houses so constructed that if
air be not given in good time to dry up all condensed moisture from
the leaves of Vines and Peach-trees, scorching is sure to ensue, or the
tissues of the leaves may be crippled so that they do not perform
their natural functions. It is simple to avoid this if the trees are
kept in a healthy condition at the root. There is then little or no
necessity for so much syringing to keep foliage clean.

Houses that lack the means of giving abundance of air require, in
fact, special treatment of their own. They require a well-drained
healthy border, in the first place ; and secondly, they require a care-
ful system of atmospheric treatment, and a practised stoker who has
judgment to anticipate the weather and control his heating power
with an experienced hand. The shutting-up and syringing of these
houses with the same amount of atmospheric moisture, and at the
same time, as houses of modern capacity — where plants are exposed
to abundance of healthy air during the greater part of the day, — is as
mischievous a practice as can well be imagined. In the case of Vines,
the young growths will in a few days become extended and elongated
beyond their normal length, causing confusion in training, and the
bunches to become loose and straggling. The right course to adopt
would be to keep the roots abundantly supplied with water, to give
air early in the morning — say by G.30 or 7 a.m. — and to sprinkle
neither borders nor paths at any time except with full ventilation on
in fine weather, and keep on top air till late in the evening. It is
surprising how soon a difference in the growth and foliage of Vines
will be perceptible under the latter course of treatment. The leaves
become large and leathery, the shoots short-jointed, and the bunches
compact and shapely. How much longer will it be before this bar-
barous practice of bathing Vines is entirely dispensed with ?

In the case of Peach-trees — much as has been written upon the
subject, we still find cases similar to that of the Vines above referred
to, and the conditions that apply to the one case will apply also to

1879.] MANAGEMENT OF FORCING-HOUSES. 301

the other. We find work falling into arrears in the way of disbudding,
thinning, &c, to be a gross sacrifice and waste of the trees — resources
which should be otherwise directed. We also find, in the case of
tying, in shoots (and here our young readers should be attentive), that
where two or three are tied up together in a mass, to the exclusion of
air and light, the result is unripe wood, feeble growth, flowers with
badly-developed organs, and consequently defective fruits, which are
not up to the mark in size or quality.

It should, perhaps, be observed here, that in the case of Peach
growth the shoots can be as readily arranged and the vigour con-
centrated into any given number of shoots, as in the case of the
Yine ; whilst the converse result may be produced by pinching, which
diverts the flow of sap into two or more channels, instead of one.
Aim at a moderate and regular degree of growth of a size that will
bear triplet buds, and let the foliage be of a dark, glossy green, and
leathery to the feel.

In later houses which are being pushed forward or retarded
according to circumstances, examine the borders down to the drainage
by using a long narrow scoop, by which the condition of the soil may
be tested, and if the latter is anything like dry, water carefully on
two or three different occasions until the soil is thoroughly moistened.
This is a much better plan than that of submerging a border that has
been kept at the extreme of dryness for some time before. It enables
the roots to recruit themselves gradually, and to resume their active
condition of providing for the stems and leaves in a natural manner.
It is also the first remedy (as dryness is the first cause) for red-
spider, and is a more feasible plan of getting rid of the pest than by
dashing the young leaves to shreds with cold water from a garden
engine.

With regard to forcing pits, where Melons, Cucumbers, Strawberries,
Leans, &c, are forced in quantity, the watering of the plants at the
root, and the atmospheric conditions that are maintained, will either
tend to promote good health and cleanliness, or it may have the con-
trary effect if the supply be not nicely gauged according to the re-
spective requirements of the plants, their locality, and stage of growth.
Melons will bear any amount of sun if they are grown hard and
stubby, and may be watered as freely as Cucumbers in bright weather.
The surface of the soil should also be mulched with cow or horse
manure to encourage surface roots, and to save watering, which re-
quires to be done more frequently when the soil is exposed to con-
stant evaporation.

Cucumbers that are grown in houses through the summer, if the
plants are to be kept healthy, should have a moderate degree of shade,

302 THE GARDENER. [July

and be trained fully 18 inches from the glass. All superiluous
fruits should be removed before they draw unnecessarily on the
resources of the plants. We prefer, however, to grow Cucumbers in
low pits or frames through the summer, or from about June to
September.

Strawberries in pots should always be watered between 9 and 10
a.m. every morning, and looked over again in the afternoon, if clean-
liness is to be a certainty. Beans in pots and planted out should
also be supplied with water at a uniform temperature — that is to say,
if the Beans are planted out in a pit. With bottom-heat, do not give
them water from 20° to 30° lower than the soil they are growing in.
We know that we expect the weather to grow warmer daily, but a
few hours or days of sunshine will not have the same effect in increas-
ing the temperature of water two or three feet beneath the surface of
the earth, that it will have in raising the temperature of the air in
glass structures, or even upon plants that are growing upon the sur-
face of the earth outside. It is therefore advisable to have all tanks
filled with water in the morning (where there is not a supply in the
houses inside), so that it will be exposed to the softening influence
of air and heat before it is used for plants that are grown under
glass.

It is by giving attention to minor details, and by assisting nature,
that we succeed with summer crops ; and still more so, that we suc-
ceed in producing fertility in fruit trees and other plants that are to
be forced out of season. Cultivator.

CHOICE HARDY SPRING FLOWERS.

Narcissus. — The Narcissi are essentially flowers of spring. They
are all beautiful, and there is a very considerable number of varieties
and species in cultivation. In fact, "there are perhaps too many
varieties : there are certainly too many names ; for they greatly exceed
the number of distinct sorts. Certain connoisseurs profess to
discern well-marked specific distinctions, where ordinary observers
fail to detect even the merest differences in form or colour. But
independently of the confusion of nomenclature and embarrassing
synonymy that one has to face in taking up the genus as a subject of
study, there is a strong attraction induced by their fragrance and
beauty, which helps to overcome the natural repugnance arising
therefrom. The following brief list is not vouched for as being
more scientifically correct than any other, but it contains the
names of some of the best sorts in cultivation ; and they have the

1879.] CHOICE HARDY SPRING FLOWERS. 303

additional merit also of being generally known by the names attached
to them, which is not always the case with many other varieties ; for
many are merely known to a few who make a speciality of the genus,
and distribute them one to another in the way of exchange.

N. bifiorus. — This is a strong-growing sort, with broad glaucous
leaves a foot or more long. The flowers, usually in pairs, but some-
times solitary, are large, the divisions of the corolla overlapping each
other in their ample breadth ; the crown is yellow and cup-shaped.
N. bicolor. — This is one of the most beautiful, and certainly not one
of the most plentiful. The petals or divisions of the corolla are very
light canary, and the crown, which is long and trumpet- shaped, is a
fine saffron colour. N. hulboeodium — the Hoop-petticoat jSTarcissus
— is one of the most singular, as well as one of the most beautiful,
of the genus. There is no confounding it with any other species : it
is so thoroughly distinct and characteristic, that it is by some authors
held to be worthy of a separate generic status and name. The leaves
are almost cylindrical and rush-like, the ilowers composed of very nar-
row strap-like petals, and the crown very long, wide, and expanding
elegantly and vase-like ; and both crown and petals are a very bright
and pleasing tone of yellow. N. incomparabilis, and its variety,
called bicoloratus, are striking and handsome. The foliage is broad,
massive, and long, deeply glaucous, and in fine harmony with the soft
canary of the flowers. N. jonquilla — the Jonquil — though not
one of the showiest, is one that should be in every garden on account
of its peculiarly delicate and pleasing fragrance. Being also one of
the earliest to appear, it is the more welcome and desirable. N. Em-
press.— This is a fine garden form, one of the boldest and most strik-
ing, with immensely large golden-yellow flowers, the trumpet-shaped
crown being very long, and expanding wide. N. Maclean. — A very
distinct and fine sort, with, for the vigour and robustness of the plant,
comparatively short leaves, which usually do not exceed half the length
of the flower-scapes. The latter ascend to about a foot high, some-
times terminating in two flowers, but more commonly in one flower
only, the petals being broad and overlapping, pure white ; while the
crown, which is about half an inch long, is bright yellow. N. mos-
cliatus. — Of this there are some varieties well worth growing, but the
most useful is the type with fine pale canary or maize-coloured petals
and crown, and the double-flowered form, which is one of the hand-
somest of the group. Between this form and the N. cernuus and
cernuus plena occurs an illustration of the embarrassing synonymy
alluded to a little farther back as cumbering this popular genus of
spring flowers. I have failed to discern the distinction, whatever it
may be, that is alleged to exist between these two so-called species,

304 THE GARDENER. [July

and think that one or other of the names should he expunged from
lists. N. minor. — This is a diminutive Daffodil, and well worth a
place in every garden. It does not exceed four or five inches in height,
even when most luxuriant. The flowers are bright yellow, and the
foliage is deeply glaucous : it is invaluable for edging lines or clumps
in the front line of flower-borders. N. Sabinii is one of the grandest
and most striking of the group. The foliage is broad, massive, and
erect. The petals are long and broad, overlapping each other, and
deep canary -yellow ; the golden crown is long and very wide, expand-
ing, and slightly re flexed at the mouth, and crimped on the margin.
This is without any superior in the yellow Daffodil single- flowered
section : there is a massiveness and grandeur about the whole plant
that is only approached in two other varieties that have come under
my notice — and they are Emperor and Empress ; but both these,
while they are in no way superior to Sabinii, are too near in character
to be desirable in the same collection — that is, if it is to be distinctive
in its components. Amongst the double-flowered forms of the Daffo-
dil section I shall only notice two, which are the best that I have met
with. They are telamonius plenus — a fine golden- yellow, double in
the most emphatic sense, and more resembling a double African Mari-
gold than a Narcissus— and Pseudo-Narcissus grandiplenus, similar in
style to the preceding, but less golden than yellow. The name is
evidently the creation of some enthusiastic amateur, whose love of the
sort tided him over the fear of dislocating his jaw. Pseudo-Narcissus
is bad enough to pronounce with any degree of elegance and ease, but
followed by such a quadrisyllable as grandiplenus, pronunciation
becomes hazardous. N. poeticus being one of the latest of the genus
to appear in flower, generally well on towards the end of May, or
even in the beginning of June, in the north, is one of the best worth
cultivating, independently of its great beauty and elegance. It is
inferior to none in its attractive elegance ; while in the delicacy of its
perfume it surpasses perhaps every other species in the genus. The
double form of this lovely species is a very useful one, being as frag-
rant as a Gardenia, and not inferior to that flower in shape, and at the
same time more durable, being less liable also to become discoloured
than it. It is one of the best cut-flowers of its season. JV. Tazeita,
the parent of the Polyanthus Narcissus, is so distinct in its character
that it deserves a place in every collection. Were it for no other
reason than its early-flowering quality, it is worthy of being culti-
vated ; but it is also a very fragrant sort, and offers a good many
varieties of considerable elegance and beauty.

Bulbocodium vernum. — A very beautiful plant in the mass,
Crocus-like in the form of its flowers, and also in its habit of pushing

1879.] CHOICE HARDY SPRING FLOWERS. 305

up its flowers in advance of its leaves. The flowers are rosy-purple,
and appear in February and March.

Convallaria majalis (Lily of the Valley). — Although rather late to
appear in flower, no list of spring flowers would be complete without
this elegant and sweet universal favourite. It is one of the very few
cultivated plants which have held an unassailable position in the esti-
mation of the public, notwithstanding the changes of fashion.

Erythronium dens-canis (the Dog's-tooth Violet). — A very beau-
tiful and free-flowering plant, pretty generally cultivated, and well
worthy of being so. The foliage alone is most attractive, with its
brown and glaucous-green blotches ; but the flowers, which are pro-
duced in great profusion in March and April, are no less attractive.
There are two or three varieties — a deep rosy-purple one, and one
with paler purple flowers, and a white-flowered one which is very
pretty as a variety and contrast with the others. E. americanum is
not so often to be met with in gardens as the preceding, but it is no
less worthy of general cultivation. The leaves are more lanceolate in
form, but are similarly marked with brown spots ; the flowers are fully
larger in size, and are yellow in colour. It flowers later than E. clens-
canis, generally about the middle of April.

Fritillaria. — Of this genus there are several forms which are
worthy of being included among spring flowers when the collection,
is to be composed of all that combine early-flowering qualities with
some beauty or elegance in form or colour. But the Fritillarias can-
not be regarded as decorative plants ; they are more curious and
elegant than showy and striking in colour. F. Mcleagris is the best
known, excepting perhaps the Crown Imperial (F. imperial is), wThich
flowers too late to be fit to include in a list of spring flowers, and also
the handsomest both in colour and form. There are several varieties,
the best being that usually regarded as the normal form, with purple-
brown spotted flowers, and the white-flowered one. F. nigra has
very deep, dark, reddish-brown flowers, and F. obliqua purple-brown
flowers.

Hyacinthus. — It is unnecessary to mention the varieties of H.
orientalis, which are so universally grown in pots and bedded out in
the flower-garden ; but this paper would be incomplete without a
notice of H. amethystinus, which is a totally different type of Hya-
cinth to the beautiful forms alluded to. As the name denotes, the
flowers are amethyst blue, in loose open spikes, more like some of
the varieties of Scilla nutans, the Wood Hyacinth, than the more
erect close-spiked H. orientalis. It flowers towards the middle or
end of April.

Muscari (Grape Hyacinth). — These are lovely and very popular

306 THE GARDENER. [July

spring flowers. M. moschatum is too late in flowering to be fit to
recommend as a spring flower, but any mention of the genus would
be incomplete were it left unnoticed, on account of its delicious frag-
rance. M. botryoides cornosum, and its monstrous form known as
the Feather Hyacinth, and M. racemosum, are the best known, and
are indispensable ornaments of the garden in spring ; but the hand-
somest of the genus is M. Szovitzianum. It is nearest in general
character to racemosum, but is greatly superior to it in colour, and is
also neater in foliage and habit. It is blue, but such an unapproach-
able blue as I have never met with in any other flower. It is a very
scarce plant, but should be added to every collection of choice
things.

Ornithogalum, or Star of Bethlehem, may be passed over with
the remark that, though very free-flowering plants, they are somewhat
common, not to say vulgar looking. They are capable of producing
a good effect in glades in woods, and in suchlike positions, but they
are apt to give a collection of choice plants a somewhat untidy and
ordinary appearance when any considerable number of them are culti-
vated. They are all white-flowered.

Scilla (Squill). — This is one of the loveliest of the genera of
spring flowers. S. amoena, bifolia, campanulata, italica, nutans, and
sibirica, are the principal of the spring-flowering sorts, and all should
be grown in quantity. Of bifolia, campanulata, and nutans, there are
several varieties that are useful as famishing materials for a variety
of decorative effects.

Trillium grandiflorum. — A very choice and beautiful plant, some-
what singular as well in structure and aspect. The flowers are pure
white, and appear in ordinary seasons in the end of April, and last till
the end of May.

Tulipa (the Tulip). — This furnishes some of the most splendid
flowers of spring. The later-flowering varieties, which are derived
from T. Gesneriana, are unsurpassed in the variety and brilliancy of
their colours • and the earlier-flowering ones, which, if less varied, are
not less brilliant, are derived chiefly from T. suaveolens, both species
being natives of southern Europe. Two of the best early-flowering
species are T. Clusiana and T. irrcecox, the latter bright scarlet, the
former purple, white, and red.

W. Sutherland.

Craigleith Nursery, Edinburgh.

■*T~S^3^S^^—

79-] THE VITALITY OF SEEDS. 307

THE VITALITY OF SEEDS.

It has been recently asserted that the reason why old Melon seeds pro-
duce more fruitful plants than young seeds produce, is because the
starch the old seeds contain is gradually converted into albumen,
which is less readily soluble than starch, therefore the plants raised
from old seeds do not grow so vigorously and are more fruitful than
stronger-growing plants raised from young seeds. This is advanced
on the authority of Loudon. In the first place, such a change
is an utter impossibility ; in the second, in Loudon's days chemists
had not ascertained the composition of Melon seeds, and therefore
Loudon's statement was only assertion— and loose assertion too —
as he could not possibly have known the chemical formula of starch
and albumen, or he would never for a moment have supposed the
possibility of starch being converted into albumen. Loudon's
mistake was excusable ; but how are we to excuse those who go on
repeating it so long after the idea which gave it birth has been
exploded 1 The truth is — and, practically, it is of some value to know
it— that after a year or two Melon seeds gradually lose their vitality,
and as the vital power becomes less the plants produced are less robust,
and — that is all. There is a very erroneous idea entertained and acted
on, that Melon seeds two or three years' old produce earlier and more
fruitful plants than one-year-old seeds. It is certainly quite true, and
by careful comparison we have satisfied ourselves of its being so, that
plants raised from seeds old enough to have an impaired vitality gener-
ally show fruit-blossom earlier and in even greater abundance than when
the plants were raised from seeds whose vitality was unimpaired. But
the conclusion which seems to have been universally arrived at is quite
erroneous. We have on more than one occasion proved what we are
now saying. It is not from any positive quality possessed by old seeds,
but rather in consequence of an impaired vitality, that the plants are
earlier and more fruitful. Lessen the vigour of plants raised from new
seeds by using poorer soil while the plants are being nursed in pots
previous to final transplanting, or by the use of smaller pots or a lower
temperature than is consistent with a vigorous development, or by
any means whatever whereby the constitution of the plants is brought
to the level of plants raised from seeds with an impaired vitality, and
you will find the results quite the same. This being the case, any dif-
ference between new Melon and Cucumber seeds can be regulated at
will and according to the appliances of the cultivator, — for not only
can new seeds be brought to produce plants similar every way to that
produced by older seeds by the " levelling-down " system, but equality
may be restored to a certain extent by the " levelling-up " process as
well, by using soil a little richer than usual : but perhaps this is only
putting the same fact in a different form.

On the same subject, under a somewhat different title, a writer in a

308 THE GARDENER. [July

•contemporary tells us, among other tilings, Low to produce crops of
Peas, by simply using seeds of unimpaired vitality. Quoting the same
authority — Loudon — he tells us that if we wish Peas of an earlier type,
all we have to do is to take Peas for seed which had not been quite
matured. The observation which led to such advice was surely of the
shallowest description. That immature Peas used for seed really do
produce a somewhat earlier crop we know to be true, but to say that an
earlier type can be thus produced is wholly incorrect. An early tend-
ency thus produced is not permanent, but a merely accidental circum-
stance, and wholly on account of an impaired vitality. Impair the
vitality of the plants to an equal extent in other ways by sowing in
thin, hot, or poor soils, or by transplanting and so injuring the roots,
and the result will be quite the same, — the enhanced earliness being
produced wholly in consequence of the altered circumstances, and not
because of an inherent quality in the seeds.

Another case which we have carefully proved, and which has more
than once proved itself, much to our chagrin, has been in the case of
Leeks sown in heat about the first of February, to be grown on for
exhibition purposes in August and September. Whenever the seeds
have been a little inferior, either from age or imperfect maturation, we
have always found that the produce of such seeds was inferior to the
produce of plump, well-ripened seeds ; and not only so, but a large
percentage of those produced from the inferior seeds ran to seed by
August, while with first-rate seed we have found it quite safe to sow as
early as the middle of January.

Numerous other instances might be cited to show that many failures
arise from seeds with impaired vitality. Some years ago Mr Simpson
raised the question, Why the earliest crops of Turnips sometimes ran
straight to flower from the seed-leaf, when under what one would con-
sider fair circumstances ; and sometimes, under less favourable circum-
stances, a fair crop was secured before the spindling for seed com-
menced? No one answered the question thus raised. Probably the
experience of cultivators was identical to the querist's, and as little
able to "tell the reason why" as he. Since that time we have never
seen a sowing of these "bolt" prematurely v/ithout considering the
circumstances under which they had been grown, with a view to
discover the cause; and as showing the truth of what we have
written above, we recall two different sets of circumstances under
which part of the crop bolted and the other did not. The first
happened some time ago. In digging over some ground which had
been dug and half of it manured the previous autumn, we gave
the whole a good dressing of well -decayed manure, not knowing
that one-half had been dressed before. On this ground our earliest
Turnips were sown. Those on the twice-manured portion perfected a
very fine crop : those on the once-manured nearly all ran to seed with-
out bulbing at all. Since then we have taken care to have the ground

iS79-] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 309

intended for our earliest Turnips liberally manured, and have Lad good
reason to be satisfied with the practice. The other occasion was only-
last season, and it goes to prove that a vigorous growth, in the earlier
stages especially, helps materially to prevent premature seeding. We
had some seed left from the previous year, and we made an equal sow-
ing of old seed and new. From the first a difference was discernible.
The new seed came up first and strongest; the new seed gave us some
find Turnips, with only a few " seeders : " the old seed gave us only a
few bulbs, and a fine crop of plants which ran prematurely to seed.
But we need not multiply examples. It is well enough known that
Celery, Lettuce, <fcc, whenever they get a check, have their tendency
to seeding increased, and when kept growing vigorously the tendency
is in part overcome. Poverty, drought, crowdedness, and many other
influences, hasten the flowering period; and, last but not least, although
far too often overlooked, seed with a vitality not strong enough to give
a vigorous growth from the very first. We ought to aim at a vigorous
growth from the very first, because weakly seedlings are only made
vigorous plants with great difficulty, and often enough it proves to be
an impossibility.

Xow these are facts well worth knowing and acting upon. Low-
priced seeds are often enough very dear seeds, although inexperienced
persons sometimes think otherwise, until taught the truth through
painful experience. Old seeds are often enough worse than useless
because they lead to a cumbering of ground with wTeakly produce which
might have carried a robust vegetation. With a proper method, and
with a knowledge of what is wanted, together wTith the amount of seed
required to crop a given space, there is no reason why any seeds should
be left over from one year to another; and when there is, it is as often
as not the falsest economy to use the old seed instead of buying new.

A. M.

THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN.

ROOT CROPS.

(Continued from page 2S0.)

The Parsnip. — To obtain good Parsnips the seed requires to be sown as soon
in the year as the soil is in good working order. "We generally maDage to get
ours in some time in February, and never later than the middle of March if we
can help it. At the same time, Parsnips can be secured although the seed be
not sown until April, but never so fine as those sown earlier, unless under very
•exceptional circumstances. There is no fear of the seed on the score of hardi-
ness, as in the case of the Beet ; and no fear of it running prematurely to seed,
as in the case of the Carrot and Turnip, — so that it can be sown as soon as the
soil is friable and dry. And perhaps it may not be out of place here to call the
attention of young gardeners to the above facts, for it is the custom of some to
sow their Carrots, Parsnips, and Beet on the same day ; and the consequence is,

310 THE GARDENER. [July

that the Parsnips do not grow to so large a size as when sown earlier, while it
is not an unfrequent occurrence for a large proportion of the Carrot and Beet-
root crops to run to seed when sown too early, which of course renders them
unfit for use.

The finest Parsnips are raised in deep, rather light soil, in good condition, but
haviDg no fresh manure added. The very large Parsnips seen at exhibitions
are grown in very rich soil ; but these are rather coarse compared with those
grown in soil only moderately rich. The soil should be trenched or dug as
deeply as possible during autumn or winter, to get it into as free and friable
a condition as early in the season as possible ; but no manure should be added
— presuming that the ground was manured for the previous crop. In spring the
first opportunity that occurs should be seized upon for breaking the surface of
the soil finely with a fork, sowing each row as the digging proceeds, so as to-
prevent the necessity for treading on the soil afterwards. At the same time,
we have raised fine crops in light soils by merely levelling the ground with a
Dutch hoe, drawing the drills, and raking the surface smooth. This, of
course, necessitates a good deal of treading on the soil ; but when the soil is
sandy and dry, the treading is beneficial rather than otherwise, which is not the
case when the soil is heavy. The nature of the soil must determine which of
the two ways ought to be adopted.

Draw the drills 18 inches apart, and as deep as will allowT of the seeds being
covered to the depth of an inch. Scatter the seeds so that they will not be
thrown together in heaps, otherwise there will be great difficulty in thinning
them. As soon as the plants can be observed, run a hoe between the rows, for
the double purpose of killing the weeds and loosening the surface-soil. As
soon as they have formed two rough leaves thin them carefully, leaving them
six inches apart in the rows. Their after-cultivation merely consists in clearing
them of weeds, and in keeping the surface of the soil well loosened with the hoe.
They are ready for use whenever large enough, but do not attain perfection
until frozen through. They may be allowed to stand where they grow during
winter, as no amount of frost will injure them ; while lifting and storing them,
as is usually done, spoils them a good deal — so much so, in fact, that we have
known them refused by those who otherwise were very fond of them.

To grow them clean, straight, and large for exhibition purposes, a good plan
is to trench a deep, rich piece of soil 3 feet deep or so. Put a layer of well-
decomposed manure in the bottom of the trench. Afterwards, when the soil
is frozen on the surface, drive a strong sharp-pointed stake at intervals of nine
inches in the line down to the bottom of the trench, and fill in the holes with
fine light rich soil, made moderately firm to prevent it sinking more than the
surrounding surface, and sow a patch of seeds on the top ; and when to remove
all but the strongest.

Carrots. — These are perhaps of more value than Parsnips to the owners of
small gardens, and they are more generally used. We recommend pretty
much the same treatment as described for Parsnips, but the main crop had
better not be sown until the middle or latter end of April, according to the
weather. A small bed of Early Horn may, however, be sown in March in
some sheltered corner in the full sun, or even at the end of February if a slight
hotbed can be afforded them under the protection of an ordinary cold frame.
Should young tender Carrots be wanted all through the summer and autumn,
sowings may be made at intervals of a month up till July ; but the returns,
when the garden ground is limited, will scarcely repay the trouble. Still it
often happens that different individuals have different wants, and we have

r879-] HARDY FRUITS. 311

indicated how a constant supply of small young Carrots may be had for as
long a period as is possible with the ordinary appliance possessed by an ordi-
nary amateur.

The main crop will require lifting and storing by October. They may be
buried in sand in a dry corner of a cool cellar or shed, or they may be put in a
pit in the same way that Potatoes are stored. If they are just kept from frost,
it is enough. Heat will cause them to spring into growth, which spoils them.

Beet requires very similar treatment to the above. Sow about the end of
March for an early supply ; but many of these will run to seed in summer. For
main crop sow at the end of April. Lift and store in the same way as recom-
mended for Carrots. In lifting take care not to break or bruise the roots, and
in cutting off the tops cut the tops only, but do not cut the roots, or they will
bleed and allow the juice to escape.

Turnips for an early supply may be sown as directed for Carrots, in a hot-
bed or in a warm spot. Make two very small sowings in March for the chance
of a few ; but they will very likely run to seed before bulbing. Larger sowings
may be made in April with more confidence, and in May onwards in whatever
quantity may be required without any fear of their :i bolting." The earliest-
sown batches should get as favourable a position as possible, and in rich soil.
One great means of preventing the early sowings running to seed is to keep
them growing by means of rich soil. The later ones should be sown on ordi-
nary soils, as rich soil in their case gives a tremendous crop of leaves, but very
inferior roots.

The ordinary plan practised by amateurs, of making one sowing suffice, is
not a good one. A small sowing every three weeks up till August is much
better, as it keeps up a supply of young Turnips, which are always to be pre-
ferred to old ones. Should fly prove troublesome, a good dusting of soot or
dry lime — not hot lime — when the plants are wet with dew will help them to
pull through, and a watering with well-diluted paraffine-oil between, not on,
the rows before the plants are up will sometimes prevent their appearance at
all. 15 inches between the rows and 9 inches between the plants in the rows
are suitable distances for those to be used young. Do not allow them to be
crowded, as is usually the case, for they grow all to tops. Swedish Turnips for
winter supply, or for furnishing Turnip-tops as a substitute for Seakale, require
to be sown towards the end of May. Allow them 20 to 24 inches between the
rows, according to the productiveness of the soil, and 1 foot to 15 inches be-
tween the plants. Store in pits like Potatoes, using plenty of straw and only
a few inches of earth. A Gardenek.

HARDY FRUITS.

The destruction of insects is perhaps the most important matter requiring the
attention of the fruit-cultivator at this year. Black-fly, green-fly, and cater-
pillars have all been well represented this year, and no ordinary attention
has been enough to keep them from destroying young growths. Cherries are
generally among the first and worst to sutler from aphis. When the shoots
have made good growth, and before they are tied in to the walls, an effort
should be made to keep down insects by syringing with tobacco-water. Where
there is fruit this operation is difficult to perform without doing mischief. The
tops of the shoots which are to be nailel in should be handled separately, dip-

Y

312 THE GARDENER. [July-

ping the point of each in a shallow vessel of tobacco- water : tobacco-powder
and soft-soap, or Gishurst Compound, are equally as good. Examine them in a
day or two, and repeat the operation if life is left in any of the pests. Where
trees are of full size, and little growth is required, there is not much difficulty in
securing clean, healthy foliage. The tops, which are generally attacked, alone
can be nipped off. This applies to all trees which do well with spurring; and
I do not know any which fail by this practice, as when one batch of blossoms-
may be cut off by severity of weather, there are generally plenty to succeed
them. Apples are often attacked by green-fly and American bug. The curl-
ing up of the leaves with the former renders their destruction almost impos-
sible. Young trees suffer most from this pest ; and where it can be done,
hand-picking off the tops which are infested, and afterwards applying the
engine with tobacco -water, and washing with clean water, seems the only
method of eradicating the vermin. The white American bug, now so common,
defies nearly every application while the trees are in foliage. Those which
were washed with brine during the winter, and afterwards coated with a paint
made with lime, soot, soft-soap, and sulphur, suffer but little during the grow-
ing season. When these remedies are well followed up, the pest becomes
stamped out in time. Apricots are subject to a kind of grub which curl them-
selves up in the young tops of the leaves, and nothing short of hand-picking
that we have seen can reach them. The shoots should be kept thin, so that
when the necessary wood for next season's crops is tied in, all the foliage and!
fruit may have the benefit of sun and air. Those who work on the spur
system entirely must keep this same important matter in mind. Spurs can
be kept as close to the walls as young shoots. Choose those next to the walls ;
keep them there. The same applies to Plums. Though plenty of fruit may be
had on out-growing shoots, the appearance of rough spurs is objectionable,
and in time the tree gets out of bearing and health. Continued stopping of
gross wood which is monopolising the energies of the trees should be attended
to. Most cultivators recognise the advantages of attention during the growing
season, though all cannot find time to do the work. Pears are by some de-
nuded of their growths as they grow, but we think this is opposing nature
instead of assisting her ; and to do justice to tree and fruit alike, we prefer
going over the trees at different periods, taking off a portion of wood, always
the strongest growths first. Early attention to training out the leading shoots
must not be forgotten, as they are very liable to get broken. Old trees bear-
ing well, and making little or no growth, may be materially assisted by appli-
cations of guano-water or liquid manure from the stable or cow-yard. Peaches'
and Nectarines require attention often, so that they do not become matted in
their growth. The shoots should be kept very thin, and the trees syringed
with tobacco powder water : if there are no vermin, the syringing is a good
preventive. It may be premature to do much thinning of fruit, but where
they are very thickly set in clusters, it is no guarantee of safety to leave them
to destroy each other. Leave the fruit always which are best exposed to sun
and air. The largest and best-formed fruit in early stages are generally the
best when ripe. Strawberries are always a temptation to birds, and netting
them is the only safe remedy. The netting of all bush fruits and trees on*
walls, such as Cherries, must not be overlooked. Delays in such cases are
dangerous.

M. T..

1 879] MANAGEMENT OF VINE-BORDERS. 313

MANAGEMENT OF VINE-BORDERS.

"While much is being written in some of our contemporaries of the
changes and fluctuating habits of the Vine, we have many import-
ant facts before us this season. I have reason to believe that the
season of '79 will long be remembered as one which aroused all the
energies of the cultivators of early-forced fruits. We have letters
from many parts of the country, north and south of the Tweed, re-
garding the difficulties in starting early Vines, Strawberries, and
Peaches. With the two latter we have ourselves little to complain of,
they having done remarkably well, although they moved very slowly.
But as it is the Vines we are considering, I may say that I never had
a more difficult matter on hand than to get the early house to break
into growth. They, in fact, would neither lead nor drive. Muscats
started two months later than Hamburgs set their crops nearly as
early, and required thinning at same time. They both came away
rather weakly at first, but have now made up for it by good wood
and plenty of large leathery foliage ; the crops are also abundant.
The early house was covered with stable litter, and boarded over to
throw off rain ; but as we had somewhat severe frost in October, just
before this covering was placed over the border, which was no doubt
greatly cooled by such severe weather so early in the season, the
Muscat-roots were covered by dry soil only ; and in March the soil
seemed much more kindly and healthier than the manure-covered
border : besides, the influence of the little sun we had at long inter-
vals was shielded off by the littery covering ; and I have no doubt
whatever but the early house was rather a sufferer from the covering
than benefited by it. We have, over a course of many years' successful
forcing of Vines to ripen by end of April and early in May, used dry
materials, such as leaves and manure, to help (?) the roots into action
— but we have been more successful in starting them when covered
with dry ferns, over which have been placed rushes or straw. When
such covering has been removed we have found the surface of the soil
dry, dusty, and healthy, but never in any case have we seen a surface
from which manure coverings were removed but they were sodden
and on the sour side. Charcoal-dust mixed with dry soil, and lights
of frames placed over this to keep it dry, after being spread over the
Vine-roots, is our favourite protection ; and this placed over later
vineries (say when started in January and February), without glass
protection, answers admirably. While we do not condemn warm
manure over Vine-roots, we believe the system has been sadly
abused. It would be difficult for us to number the Vine-roots we
have untombed as being ruined (this extends over a period of

314 THE GARDENER. [July

twenty-five years) by the abuse of fermenting materials. A few
years ago we turned up two borders which had supplied remarkably
fine Grapes for exhibition and market by the Vines planted in them ;
but being soured and ruined at the beginning, the roots either were
killed or never went into the soil at all, as scarcely any were found
in the border, they having found their way to the foundation of the
front walls, and there they remained, probably from twenty to thirty
years. But to hear the older labourers on the place tell how carefully
" our old master " had his manure prepared, added to periodically,
heat-sticks carefully pulled out and replaced, and when the covering
was removed a small portion left over the border, keeping " roots "
intact, and mixed with a little fresh surfacing of bones, lime-
rubbish, and loam, — believing that this was the secret of success,
the industrious man of mysterious knowledge spent time, talents,
and a deal of expense, to secure crops of fine Grapes. I counted
seventeen or eighteen layers of the surfacing when removing the bor-
der, but did not even find skeletons of roots in the soil.

There is a better system required than the littery one for starting
Vine-roots, though difficult to get at. But I heard one of the greatest
of Grape-growers once say that he preferred glass covering to all
others for roots, — viz., to throw off the water — harvest sun-heat — air
could be admitted — the soil is not soured — the rough appearance is
avoided — and the glass can be applied for other purposes during
spring and summer. Midland Gardener.

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

THE CHRYSANTHEMUM.

What a blank there would be during the dull winter months in our
greenhouses and conservatories, had we not this brilliant and most
useful flower to fall back upon during this period of the year !
Not only is the Chrysanthemum useful in the decoration of green-
houses, but few flowers stand so well when cut ; and therefore where
cut flowers are in demand in quantity, the Chrysanthemum supplies
a want that would not be easily filled up otherwise.

The Chrysanthemum has also the merit of being easy of cultivation,
and, like many other florist flowers, has undergone a vast improvement
during the last ten years or so, many of the Japanese varieties espe-
cially being very beautiful, both in regard to variety of colour and
size of flowers.

There is a great diversity of opinion among gardeners as to what is
the best time for putting in the cuttings. Some recommend Novem-
ber, while others again affirm that February is the best time. We are

1879.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 315

of opinion, however, that the time for putting them in depends very
much on the purpose for which they are required, — whether for large
specimen plants to produce large quantities of bloom, or plants to pro-
duce merely a few extra-sized blooms for exhibition purposes. If large
plants are required, then we should put in the cuttings by December at
the latest : 6-inch pots are a very suitable size to put them in. Pre-
pare them in the usual way by draining well, and then fill three-parts
full with any potting-soil, finishing off with pure silver-sand, as it is
not intended they should remain long in the pots after being rooted.
Two, three, or more varieties may be put in each pot, according to
the number of plants required ; only there should be a considerable
margin left for casualties, and when potting them off the best can be
selected.

When the cuttings are inserted, water them through a fine rose, and
stand the pots in a warm pit. It is not necessary that they should be
plunged in bottom-heat ; but of course where a moderate heat can be
supplied this way, it will hasten the process of rooting. Give an oc-
casional dewing with the syringe at shutting-up time. As soon as they
are nicely rooted, pot them up singly into 3-inch pots, in moderately
rich soil, with a good dash of sand to keep it open, and place them in
a pit where they can enjoy a night temperature of about 60°, with pro-
portionate increase during the day. Keep them well supplied with
water ; and after they have grown about 3 inches, pinch out the points
to make them branch out and form good stools — the laterals to be
again pinched after they make three pairs of leaves. When the roots
have reached the sides of the pots, they will want shifting into larger
pots: 6-inch pots should be used for this shift, and the compost to
consist of one -half of good fibry loam, the remainder being made
up of one part sharp river or silver sand, one part of leaf -mould
and one part of well-rotted dung, or bone meal. In potting, ram the
soil pretty firmly about the ball, as there is less risk of it turning
sour if firm. When they have well taken with this shift, they may
be removed to a cooler house, still keeping the points pinched out
as they make three pairs of leaves. About the middle of May they
will require another and final shift into the flowering-pots, which may
be 8, 9, or 10 inch as desired, using the same kind of compost as at the
last shift, only it may be somewhat rougher, and a layer of old dung
may be put over the crocks : ram the soil firmly into the pots, and
plunge them out-of-doors in a sheltered place. They may be pinched
for the last time about the end of June, and must be attended with water
when required ; and turn the plants round occasionally, as well to let
them get the sun equally on all sides as to break any roots that may
find their way through the drain-holes of the pots. If they are allowed
to make roots in this way, they may receive a check when they come
to be housed, and then lose their bottom leaves : nothing looks more
unsightly than to see them with long bare stems. They will require

316 THE GARDENER. [July

to be supported with stakes, so as to prevent them being broken with
wind.

After the flower-buds begin to show, they will receive much advan-
tage from a watering twice a- week with manure-water; and nothing in
this way is better than good Peruvian guano, steeped, and then a little
poured off into the watering-pot as you require it, merely colouring the
water with it. They will require to be housed about the middle of
October, and a few of the most advanced may be put into a gentle
heat, when they will soon come into flower.

We have been speaking of plants for general decorative purposes, as
being those most generally grown — those grown for exhibition pur-
poses being managed in some respects somewhat differently. For this
purpose the cuttings are quite soon enough if put in about the begin-
ning of February. The cuttings should be put in in the same manner
as described above, but the pots must be plunged in a hotbed or other
place where a bottom-heat of about 80° can be had. When rooted, pot
off singly in 3-inch pots, and after they begin to grow pinch out the
points, but after this they need not be pinched again, the object being
to throw as much vigour as possible into two or three stems. Of course
they grow very tall, and we have seen them from 5 to 7 feet high. They
must be kept growing, and shifted into larger pots as they require to be
moved. Pot firmly, and they may be plunged out-of-doors in a sheltered
place, as described for the others. Keep them well supplied with water,
and securely staked : when the roots have pretty well filled the pots,
give manure-waterings. They must be housed early in October, and
pushed forward or kept back according to the time they are wanted.
When the flower-buds appear, they must be thinned out, leaving only
two or three on each shoot.

We have seen the Chrysanthemum turned out of the 3-inch pots
into a moderately rich border, and potted up again in September ; but
unless very carefully done, and kept close and shaded for a time after-
wards, they are apt to lose a large portion of their lower leaves.

Nice dwarf plants, useful for front rows or for vases, may be grown
by putting in cuttings in April, and treating them in all respects like
the others, only keeping them in 4-inch pots, and pinched in to make
them dwarf and bushy. J. G., W.

BOILERS AND PIPES.

While the discussion on heating is going on in your pages, it may
not be inopportune to raise a few collateral questions on the subject
of boilers and pipes, &c, on which I would be glad to hear the
opinion of your correspondent, Mr Makenzie, who appears to be
pretty well up on the subject, and also of others. As regards boilers,

sS79-] BOILERS AND PIPES. 317

without professing to be an expert in such matters, my opinion is that
the apparatus which presents the greatest amount of surface to the
direct or first action of the fire, and which can be entirely enveloped
in the flame of the furnace, must be the best ; and it seems to me
that the boiler which does this is one of the shape of a penny-piece,
with a perfectly flat under surface and a slightly convex top, at the
apex of which the flow-pipe would start and the returns would enter
opposite each other at each side of the penny, — the water-way to be
about the usual capacity of the saddle - boiler — that is, from 2 to
3 inches thick. I propose to set such a boiler above a shallow
circular basin of fire-brick — the fireplace being represented by the
bottom of the basin — and to cover it above with another inverted
basin of fire-brick brought down to within 2 or 3 inches of the
surface of the boiler, the flue going out at the flow-pipe at the crown
of the boiler. The boiler would, of course, only be slung by flanges,
so as to leave a space about two inches wide round the edges for the
draught : the fire being exactly under the centre of the boiler, the
draught would be equal all round, and the flame would envelop the
whole apparatus perfectly. In order to make the door air-tight, I
propose to face it with fire-brick, and work it by a pulley and bal-
ance-weight— the door, when closed, dropping on to a bevelled seat
in front of the grate, the door itself being bevelled in order to fit.
The object of the bevel is to prevent ashes lying on the grate and
keeping the door from shutting close. I may state that I have ex-
perimented with such doors and found them to work smoothly, and
to need no banging or knocking to make them shut — practices which
destroy ninety-nine furnace - doors in a hundred. Of course, the
door runs in a perpendicular groove in which no obstruction could
possibly settle. It may be stated that the furnace-door would be
the only brick in the basin below the boiler ; but the fuel is meant to
lie on a circular grate of small diameter in the centre of the basin, and
when the fire gets fairly ignited the red-hot cinders would be spread
outwards round and up the sides of the basin, and the fresh fuel thrown
in the centre, thus so far burning the smoke as it passes over the red-
hot fuel towards the edges of the boiler. I do not know that I could
better explain my ideas without a plan ; but your readers may guess
pretty near what I mean by imagining a penny-piece placed horizon-
tally in the air, with a saucer of the same size, and a hole in the
centre of it, inverted above it, the fire being represented by a candle
held under the penny, and the flame travelling over its under sur-
face, round the edges, and over the. top and out at the hole at the
crown of the saucer.

And now I will endeavour to record some experiments with a minia-

318 THE GARDENER. [July

tare boiler of this description. I had a boiler G inches in diameter,
and having a water-way from one-eighth to a quarter of an inch thick,
and holding about a couple of wine-glassfuls of water, made of block
tin, and set, complete, in the same material as it would be in fire-
brick, the external surface being covered with non-conducting felt.
This boiler, as well as the whole of the apparatus, was made at a
Midland foundry, where the experiments were carried out, and where
I was kindly afforded every facility for giving the boiler a fair trial on a
small scale. When the boiler was sent to me for inspection, before
trial, I found written on its under surface, "The Boiler of the
Future," but the best laid schemes gang oft a-gley. Well, the
nominal heating -power of horticultural boilers is put at something
like 50 square feet of surface of hot-water pipes to every square foot
of boiler surface, though I never heard of any boiler that could do
this effectively, or anything like it. Still "the boiler of the future "
ought to accomplish the very most we had, 250 feet or 3000 inches
of half-inch gas-piping attached to the thin G-inch circular boiler —
about the right proportion — the piping being coiled round a druir,
and the flow-piping starting from the crown of the boiler and de-
scending the spiral coil to the bottom of the drum, and then bending
off and entering the boiler by the return openings at each side — every-
thing, in short, being arranged exactly as we heat our hothouses. A
spirit-lamp was applied to heat the water, and then our difficulties
began ; and neither the founder nor myself could overcome or explain
them at the time, though I have found a certain hypothesis on the
subject since : but that is neither here nor there at present. No
sooner was the lamp applied than the water began to circulate —
running a considerable way round the coil by the flow, and making the
pipes so hot that a touch blistered the hands. Then the pipes would
as suddenly cool again in the flow-pipe, and the water would begin
to flow round by the return-pipes just as far and as hotly ; then cir-
culation in that direction would cease without any apparent cause and
begin at the right end again ; and so on many times, the water in the
boiler all the time apparently boiling "fit to burst." Alterations
were made, and the length of piping considerably diminished, &c„
&c, but to no purpose. At last the boiler burst, after hours of
patient coaxing, and we had to leave the shops and run for the train
as black and smutty as any Sheffield "grinder," and not a little
puzzled on the subject of " hot-water circulation." Here was a boiler
constructed on sound principles — on the common saddle principle^
one might say — with the flow-pipe at the highest point, and the re-
turn entering at the lowest — absolutely refusing to conduct itself as
in theory it ought to do. I have not had time to return to the experi-

1879.] KALOSANTHES. 319

ment again, but meanwhile would be glad if any of your readers
could explain what it was that was at fault. It was not the fault
of arrangement of the pipes, or of the expansion-box, or of air in
the pipes, and the outlets and inlets of the flow and return-pipes were
of the same capacity. All the arrangements, indeed, were in the
usual orthodox manner. The experiment, so far as it went, showed
that the boiler had great and unusual power — the fault was in the
circulation.

Had the experiment succeeded, it was my intention to have a
boiler fixed here, and to attach to it pipes of oval instead of circular
shape, that would present the same amount of heating surface as a
4-inch pipe, but which would contain considerably less water, and
be sooner heated. This, I am aware, would have necessitated a
more constant fire in severe weather ; still I am not sure but that
pipes which are soon heated and soon cooled are the best in hot-
houses, where it is often desirable to reduce or raise the tempera-
ture quickly. J. S. W.

KALOSANTHES.

A beautiful genus of succulent plants, forming splendid specimens
in a short time, when a little attention can be devoted to them.
The flowers, which are produced in large clusters on the points of the
shoots, are singularly shaped and brilliantly coloured, and a large
wTell-trained specimen in full flower is a rather conspicuous object in
the greenhouse or conservatory.

The best time to propagate them is in July and August, selecting
cuttings from shoots which are not showing flower, as there are always
a few of these to be found on large plants. The strongest of the
cuttings should be inserted singly into 60-sized pots, and three or
more of the wTeaker ones in a 4-inch pot, in a compost of light loam,
leaf-mould, and a good addition of sharp sand, the pots having pre-
viously been carefully crocked, with a layer of moss or rough fibry
material placed over them. They should then be placed in a cold
frame on a bed of ashes, and watered so as to wet the whole of the soil
in the pots, after which keep close and shade carefully for a few days
during the middle of the day when the sun is most powerful. In
such a place they will emit roots and fill the cutting pots in a very
short time, when the shading should be dispensed with. After they
are well rooted they should be shifted on into pots two or three sizes
larger than those they were struck in, draining them well as before,
and giving them a nice rich loam with a fair proportion of sand and
broken charcoal ; or where the latter cannot be procured, a few bricks
or potsherds broken very small and mixed with the soil will make a

320 THE GARDENER. [July

good substitute. After this shift, any of the shoots that are likely to
tike the lead should have their points pinched out, to encourage
lateral growths. This may be done up to the end of September or
beginning of October, when it must be discontinued till the following
spring. The greenhouse or Melon-house will be a suitable place to
winter them in ; and great care must be taken in watering them dur-
ing the dull dark months of winter, giving just enough to keep them
in a sweet healthy condition, and by no means practise the drying-off
process, or they will shrivel and lose a lot of their bottom leaves, which
spoils the look of the plants, besides injuring their constitution.

By February they will begin to grow, and if desirable can be encour-
aged with a little heat, and by the middle or end of March they will
require another good shift, when the shoots should be nicely regulated
and tied out to neat stakes. They will now need plenty of water, with a
little liquid manure occasionally in a very weak state ; and if desirable
they can be gradually hardened off and stood out of doors in the open
air during the summer months. The next shift will be into their
flowering pots, which must not be deferred till too late in the season ;
and the plants must also be housed in good time, although we have
invariably noticed the colour come much finer and brighter when
allowed to partially open their flowers in the full sun out of doors. At
the same time they must not be allowed to get wet, or the quality of
the flowers will be injured ; and when under cover, the flowering period
can be greatly prolonged by a slight shade. There are a great many
varieties of this elegant genus, but for general decorative purposes
the old coccinea stands unrivalled. A. few cuttings struck and growm
on annually will keep up a better succession of bloom than troubling
with the old plants after they have flowered ; and we would strongly
•recommend them to all lovers of greenhouse flowering-plants.

DUNDONIAN.

PYEUS MAULEII.
Apart from the great beauty of its flowers and fruit when cultivated
in ordinary circumstances, our experience of this splendid novelty
during the past sjDring warrants us in believing that it will soon
become one of the most popular of forcing shrubs. We saw plants
of about a foot high, potted in G-inch pots, and introduced in the
beginning of the year into gentle heat, with from eighteen to twenty-
five of their brilliant yellowish - crimson flowers, fully expanded in
the beginning of March. These, as may be imagined, were very much
admired, and formed quite a feature among the other flowering-plants
with which they were associated in the greenhouse. Have any of the
other readers of ' The Gardener ' tried it for this purpose 1

Omega.

1879.] REMARKS ON FRUIT-CULTURE. 321

REMARKS ON FRUIT-CULTURE.

^Notwithstanding the books that have been written, and the garden-
ing periodicals that have been filled weekly with information upon
fruit-forcing and fruit-growing generally, there still seems to be a
great difference of opinion among cultivators upon the subject. Not
only is this the case with amateurs and persons who might be con-
sidered as inexperienced, but we also find fruit-growers of some
repute differing upon the most fundamental principles of fruit-
culture.

Now, in advocating the claims of any particular system of fruit-
culture or anything else, if the " principle " is wrong the whole fabric
of the argument must necessarily fall to the ground ; and in the
same way if any particular variety or varieties of fruit be extolled
by any grower upon the narrow grounds that it has answered his
own purpose, this theory, too, must of necessity evaporate in the
presence of more accurate facts and results which have been proved
beyond the region of mere assertions. I need hardly say that I refer
to a recent discussion in a contemporary upon the relative merits of
certain varieties of Strawberries, as well as to certain allegations that
have been made regarding Vine-leaves being a sure proof of the
quality of the crop.

As regards the Strawberries — the successful forcing of which re-
quires thought, skill, and strict attention — I am ready to yield to
every grower what I claim for myself — viz., that of knowing my own
wants and circumstances best, and therefore that I have a right to
choose for myself whatever course seems best to adopt; but the aspect
of affairs is altered if I recommend for general cultivation what is in
fact but a foible of my own.

The varieties that have been pitted against each other are Black
Prince and Sir Charles Napier. I dismiss the former, because it is
not worth growing after February, either for home consumption or for
market purposes. The reason and the proof go together. The reason
we do not grow Black Prince is because we can get three times the
weight of fruit, of larger size and finer appearance, from the same
space of Yicomtesse Hericart de Thury. We cannot ignore weight
and quality any more than we can ignore the fact that Black Prince
is simply a Strawberry for a warm outdoor border, and that it is a
useful variety for preserving.

As to the merits of Sir Charles Napier, I have heard a good many
opinions expressed about them. Some people object to its "acidity,"
-others like it for a change, but call it a third-rate or market kind. I
am, however, disposed to think that the principal objection some

322 THE GARDENER. [July

people have to it is that they have not discovered exactly the con-
ditions under which it thrives best — or if they have, they have been
very lax in their attention. Sir Charles Napier is one of the most
tender Strawberries grown; it is the first to become iDjured either in
the open ground or in pots from the effects of severe frost, and has
also the objectionable habit of throwing up young leaves in the centre
of the crown till late in the autumn, which renders it a subject that
requires special attention. Our own practice has been to pot off the
plants of this variety about the first or second week in August, and
to remove all the side crowns during the growing season. The plants
are always put in safe quarters (not necessarily covered) before frost
sets in ; and in the spring when they begin to grow they are at first
brought forward in cold pits, and then placed in airy positions in
orchard-houses or elsewhere where conditions are similar, but never
forced unless under pressing circumstances. Sir Charles is not a
forcer, but when the fruits are colouring the temperature should be
raised, and with plenty of air given at the same time the produce will
be of the first appearance and quality. I have never seen Sir Charles
beaten when properly grown and finished. It comes in well for the
month of May, but when forced earlier the weather is not favourable
enough to give as much air as the variety requires, and the leaf-stalks
become drawn, to the detriment of the fruit.

As to Strawberry-forcing generally, I would like to say a word or
two on behalf of beginners. It is a work which entails great patience
and labour to do it well, and each cultivator should determine for
himself the varieties which are best adapted for his own particular
purpose. As, for instance, we see Yicomtesse de Thury and Keen's
Seedling often recommended as being first-rate croppers in certain dis-
tricts, but no reference is made to their travelling qualities — a point
of great importance if the fruit has to be sent by rail a distance of two
or three hundred miles. Keen's Seedling is one of the worst travel-
lers, and the Yicomtesse should not be grown for travelling purposes
after the end of April.

"When I was at Otterspool I began with Yicomtesse de Thury,
next in order came Underbill's Sir Harry, and President, and then
Sir Charles Napier, Dr Hogg, and James Yeitch, in the order named.
To grow a smooth-skinned Strawberry for travelling long distances is
not good practice where appearance and high finish are expected.

With reference to the question of large Yine-leaves being any in-
dication of superior Grape-culture, my own personal observation leads
me to the conclusion that it is just the reverse. It is a sure sign
that the Yines have "bolted" with the grower, and that they are
galloping with a loose rein. Are the prize Grapes of our exhibitions,

1879] CYPERUS ALTERNIFOLIUS. 323

which are characterised by the highest finish, gathered from Vines
with leaves like Chinese parasols, or are they the produce of Vines
with medium leaves, leathery to the feel, with medium-sized wood
hard and brown as hazel 1 If any one is disposed to dispute the
grounds of my argument, I will furnish leaves perhaps nearly 16 inches
in diameter, from Vines, where I can prove that the roots are in the
worst possible condition, and the Grapes are far from being what would
be expected from Vines bearing such fine leaves. I think, if I may
be allowed to draw a feeble comparison, the capacity of the Vine in
many respects after a few years' high cultivation has never been satis-
factorily estimated by their leaves, any more than a phrenologist is
able to tell the quality or exact capacity of the human brain by feel-
ing the bumps of a man's head. AY. Hinds.

CYPERUS ALTERNIFOLIUS.

When well grown this is a most graceful plant for table decoration,
and deserves to be cultivated as such. Plants grown in 5-inch pots,
furnished with from twelve to sixteen whorls about 18 inches high,
are an admirable size for the table. Even plants with fewer stalks
are much admired ; they by no means obstruct the view across or
from end to end of the table. C. alternifolius variegatus is more
admired by some ; but it cannot be utilised to the same extent as
the former, on account of it losing its variegation when propagated
by cuttings. When otherwise propagated they are not so equally
developed and well furnished. The crowns of the latter are divided,
as a means of preserving the variegation ; and it is thought by some,
that when soil is light and somewhat impoverished with sand, the
foliage is the whiter. Neither is the absence of variegation felt on
the dinner - table \ surrounded with plate, and mostly every other
thing of a light colour, makes the grassy-green of C. alternifolius pre-
ferable— it contrasts so well with everything on the table.

Eor propagation, the whorl is taken, with 6 or 8 inches of the stalk,
and thrown into the water-tank in the stove, and kept in the water
till it emits roots and begins to send up young leaves ; or put into a
watering-pot full of water and kept in some corner of the stove. The
pot is preferable, as it is less subject to a change of temperature.

When young roots and leaves appear, they are taken from the
water, and the stalks are shortened to within 2 inches of the whorl.
The whorl is drawn through the hand, bringing the points of the
leaves together, which are shortened the same as the stalk. They

324 THE GARDENER. [July

are then inserted in the bed of the propagating-pit ; the hole is made
sufficient to admit of the young roots ; the cutting is put in stalk
downward; the whorl is bent upward, forming a cup, which is
filled with the sand of the bed, and sufficiently watered to firm the
whole together. The proper depth for the cuttings is, centre of whorl
half an inch below the surface. The bottom-heat is from 75° to S0C,
always giving a liberal supply of water.

A few weeks will make them ready for being put into 3-inch pots,
and placed in the stove till June. When they are finally shifted into
5-inch pots, the ordinary compost of loam, leaf-mould, and sand suits
them admirably ; and they can be grown throughout the summer in
a gentle hot-bed. The pots are plunged to the rim, allowing the
plants plenty of room to spread their whorls; and turning them
round every second day induces a symmetrical growth, and prevents
the roots getting a firm hold of the bed.

Cuttings taken in March or April, and grown as recommended,
will be ready for table decoration by the end of August.

TT. L.

HEATING BY HOT WATEE.

I.

Allow me to reply as briefly as I can to Mr Hammond's article in the-
' Gardener ' for May, where he criticises my letter in the preceding number.

In answer to my question, Why water transmitted its heat to ice ? he says,.
"I may remark that hot ice would be a curiosity." If I understand Mr
Hammond's definition of hot to mean, to raise the temperature of, I may reply
that ice becomes hot when it is being converted into water, which is not at all
a " curiosity." I consider extreme cold as the absence of heat; and if the
temperature of a body i3 raised by the application of heat, that body becomes
hot according to his definition, although the general acceptation of the word
means sensible heat. He thinks it is impossible to heat ice by any means.
Bat I have to inform him that ice is not always at the same temperature.
" Ice," he says, " is an exception to the rule that all bodies expand by heat."
But I must remind him that ice is only a transformation of a body, and if that
body is converted to its normal condition, water, it expands by the application
oi heat, like all other bodies. His test of the conducting power of water is to
drop a ball of ice into hot water for a few minutes, then take it out, and put
what remains unthawed amongst cold water, and because the ice does not raise
the temperature of the water (which must, according to the law of nature,
already be at a higher temperature than the water), but has " an opposite effect,"
he "thus proves that the particles of water are incapable of transmitting
heat to each other by conduction." But from their "having the opposite
effect" we may infer they are capable of conducting cold — or in other words,
that it has lowered the temperature of the water, which proves most effectually
that the heat has been absorbed by the ice. I will also here inform Mr Ham-

1879.] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 325

mond that there is a certain amouut of heat become latent when ice is con-
verted into water, which he can prove for himself by the following simple ex-
periment. Procure a uniform source of heat, and fill a vessel with ice below
32° Fahr., having a thermometer placed in it. Apply the heat and the tem-
perature will rise to 32°. At that point it will remain until all the ice is con-
verted into water — that is, seven-ninths of the time that the same source of
heat is required to raise the temperature of the water from 32° to the boiling
point, 212°. He truly says, " Facts are chiels that winna ding;" but he thinks
my statement concerning the transmitting power of water is only "an asser-
tion," and takes it to mean " that water parts with its heat to all bodies in
the same degree," which is " true," he says. Now I fail to see the difference.
If water parts with its heat to water, "or to all bodies in the same degree," I
cannot see that it is of any material difference whether we call it parting or
transmitting. His admission furnishes conclusive proof that my facts are
" chiels that winna ding" by any false logic. The material with which water
comes in contact has got nothing to do with the transmitting power of water;
that depends upon the conducting power of the material itself. He " wonders
how wooden pipes would act in heating plant-houses. If it is a fact that
water transmits heat to all bodies in the same degree, wooden pipes should
heat our plant-houses equally as well as iron." He forgets that wood is a bad
conductor ; and supposing he had iron (which, he admits, is a good conductor)
covered with wood, the wood would still be a bad conductor, but that would
not alter the conducting power of the iron. I wish it to be understood that I
do not consider water to be a good conductor. That is one of the reasons why
it is of so much service in heating plant-houses, by parting with its heat
slowly. Then he says, " It is also a mistake to suppose that expansion is the
cause of circulation." Then further on he says, " Heat and expansion are the
first promoters of circulation." I fail to see the difference between the pro-
moter and the cause here. He says, expansion is from the centre and acts
equally in all directions — it therefore cannot cause the water to move in one
direction only. " But though heat and expansion are the promoters," he says,
"neither is the cause, they are only agents. That is the difference of the
specific gravity of the water at different points of the apparatus." But what
is the cause of that difference ? Is it not the expansion which, instead of mov-
ing equally in all directions, moves in one direction only — that is, towards the
highest point of elevation. The difference of the specific gravity of the two
volumes of water, then, is the consequent result of expansion, which must be
the primary cause.

In reference to what Mr Hammond is pleased to "distinguish" as my
" mixed, equalised, forcing theory, "I cannot agree with him that there is a dis-
tinct line drawn between hot and cold water in the same pipe, either vertically
or horizontally. Therefore I must adhere to my statement, that mixing and
equalising must go on to a certain extent, at the commencement of circula-
tion, until the water reaches the highest point of elevation, from whence it will
return by its own specific gravity. Neither can I believe that there could be
a return-current of cold water in the flow without being affected and inter-
cepted by the warm current proceeding direct from the boiler while the legiti-
mate course was open for it by the return. He does not think it is "true"
that hotter and lighter water can force colder and heavier water on an uphill
course, certainly not without mixing with it to a certain extent. I shall
endeavour to prove that such does take place. It must either be forced or
drawn uphill. Now, to prove that it is not drawn : there are generally air-

326 THE GARDENER. [July

pipes at the highest point of elevation, and before the heavy column in the
return would draw up the column in the flow, the air would rush in and fill up
its place, which he can prove by a siphon. The only inference he can draw
from my statement, that the highest point of the structure will be the hottest,
is, "that it suffers no diminution of heat until it reaches that point." It is
needless to refer further to such an absurdity. Nevertheless, it is a well-
known fact that a house situated above the level of the others is the hottest
from its having a quicker circulation, which proves the value of elevation. An
imperfect circulation would take place by Mr Hammond's principle of con-
struction on a small scale ; but on an extensive system it would result in dis-
appointment, where there are pipes branching from the main flow to houses at
different points of the apparatus. On his principle there is neither a vertical
nor gradient rise from the main flow to the houses to induce the water to
circulate, consecpiently the circulation would principally take place in the
main flow and return, which are not unfrequently under outside paths. It is
unnecessary to advert to the fact that the rapidity with which water circulates
is in proportion to the elevation and the difference of the weight of the two columns
of water, which has already been ably treated of by ISIr Makenzie last month.
I do not wish to enter into a mere conflict of words with Mr Hammond, which,
although it may affect to search after truth, in reality only raises such a dust
that we are apt to lose sight of the subject. But with a single eye to truth,
I have not the least objection. C. M.

II.

Mr Hammond has failed, I think, to bring anything forward of material
value in support of his views on the circulation of hot water. He seems to
have been more anxious to point out that there is no analogy between the
emptying of a cistern by meaus of a syphon and the circulation of wrater in a
heating apparatus, than he has been to explain why it is that the quickest cir-
culation takes place in the highest parts of the apparatus, in preference to
those coils of pipes that are less elevated above the boiler. If Mr Hammond
can prove that it is not the additional weight of water in the return-pipes, but
something else, that causes this to take place, he will be doing good service by
at once correcting the error which has so long been entertained by hot-water
engineers. I am quite willing to yield the point as to the ascent. I think I
said it was immaterial. I would as soon have a vertical ascent as a slow gra-
dient. Mr Hammond's mode of fixing pipes will not be very likely to meet
with much favour by either gardeners or hot- water engineers, if it was for no-
thing else but for their appearance. Fancy a house, say 60 feet long, with
four rows of pipes along the front ! On entering the house the flow-pipes com-
mence a descent of, sa}r 1 in 120 — that is, 6 inches in a length of 60 feet. The
return-pipe must have the same slow descent at least, so that when the latter
reaches the point where the pipes enter the house, there will be a clear space
of 12 inches between the flow and return pipes. This I think would not look
so well, nor be so convenient in fitting, and moreover would occupy more
room, than they would if fitted up on what I suppose we will soon have to call
the "old system." I think it would be better to adopt a medium course, that
of having the flow and returns both level inside the house, and so parallel to
each other. This is done by many, and with as much success as those fitted
with a slow ascent.

1879.] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 327

I am quite prepared to believe what "J. H" says in support of Mr Ham-
mond's system. Hot water is wonderfully accommodating where it has but
one way to circulate. I am acquainted with an old fitter who boasts of his
firm having successfully heated a house for a gentleman with only one pipe for
both flow and return. (He did not say it was a four-inch.) "J. H." will no
doubt be done for ever with the "old system." Suppose, now, for the sake of
experiment, he was to fix pipes to his boiler, and give them the usual ascent
from, and descent to, the boiler, does he believe that he would get as good a
circulation in the pipes that descend from the boiler as in those that/ascend ?
I venture to predict that the water would flow into the latter in preference to
the former, if no check is put upon it in the shape of a valve. I shall not tres-
pass further upon your valuable space. E,. Inglis.

III.

I have been rather interested the last few months in the question which has
been raised by Mr Hammond on the circulation of hot water, and I think he
is entitled to many thanks for bringing forward such a subject for discussion.
I understand the main point raised in his first paper to be this : Is a continuous
rise in the flow-pipe a hindrance to the circulation ? Hot-water engineers say
it is not, but I think a rational view of the case may prove the contrary.
While quite agreeing with the correctness of Mr Makenzie's quotation from
Mr Clarke's tables, I would only ask, Why continue the rise throughout the
whole length of the flow-pipe ? Is it done to give an increased fall to the body
of water in the return-pipe, or is it to assist the circulation in the flow ? If
the latter, I think the proper designation ought to be the force-pipe. Mr
Hammond points out, in his reply to Mr Inglis (p. 210), "The water owes its
expansion and relative lightness to heat, in the first instance, and as heat fails,
the water contracts and becomes heavier ; it therefore follows that the heated
volumes of water should reach the highest points of the apparatus before any
diminution of their temperature takes place," — and goes on to say, that when
this point is reached by a slow gradient, the water must have become colder
than at the time it left the boiler ; and of course the greater distance it travels,
the greater is the decrease of temperature — that every inch it has to be raised
thereto adds an extra tax on the "pushing and pulling" powers of the colder
and heavier water in the return-pipes. With which I entirely agree ; and not
only must this be the case, but every inch it has to be raised in the length of
the flow is a gradually increasing tax on its own powers of flow.

Mr Hammond says, at p. 57, "As soon as the fire acts on the boiler, the
particles of water in contact with its inner surface bound upwards, until they
come in contact with the inner surface of the upper side of the flow-pipes.
Here they part with a portion of their heat, and become of greater specific
gravity than they were at the time of starting on their upward course, and
would now commence to descend towards the point whence they started, but
that they are still lighter than the particles composing the body of cold water
in the flows," &c. So they would, but I would also take into account the cold
water rushing in from the return-pipes, which I think is one of the principal
causes of circulation ; and as an instance of the descent of the wrater after reach-
ing the top of the boiler, and the absence of this return current, I need only
mention the homely illustration of a common tea-kettle. Therefore I should
consider that to have the highest point of circulation as near to the boiler as

Z

328 THE GARDENER. [July

possible, and to have the return current with the greatest possible fall, would
be the best means to insure a speedy circulation. This view is corroborated by
your correspondent "J. H. " in last month's number. And this is also the
conclusion, 1 think, Mr Hammond arrives at in disposing of " C. M.'s" theory
of the circulation. The idea of hot-water engineers, that a continuous rise in
the flow-pipe, no matter of what length, accelerates circulation of the water,
may turn out to be, like many another popular idea, a fallacy.

Robt. Stevens.

IV.

The interesting discussion now taking place in ' The Gardener ' on heating
by hot water will be the means of showing to a great extent whether deep
stokeholes are a necessity or not ; and I am in a position to coincide with Mr
Hammond that deep stokeholes in many cases are not required. "We have in
use tubular and saddle boilers, with a hermetically sealed box placed nearly
above them, and into this box the hot water flows from the boiler, and then
falls perpendicularly 7 feet to the pipes, which are then level throughout, the
return pipe only falling 1 foot gradually at 9 feet from the boiler. It will
thus be seen the only rise in the pipes is immediately above the boiler, and the
returns fall at 9 feet from it — one boiler alone heating five houses, comprising
an early vinery and stove ; and during the past winter the heating arrange-
ments were quite satisfactory. It is well to state that each range of houses is
built on a level, and it is only in such cases this system could be satisfactorily
carried out. But this system in our case proves conclusively to my mind that
a continuous rise and fall is not required to cause circulation of hot water in
pipes, and only where houses are built on different levels is it necessary to
have the pipes highest at the extreme point, and in such cases the return pipe
is high also. The theory that the higher the extreme point of the flow-pipe
the more rapid the circulation of water in them, to my thinking is an error ;
for however high the elevation, the water would remain stationary without
some other agency to bring about circulation, and the main agent is heat, and
the more heat that is applied the quicker the flow. To further convey my
meaning, let us commence with a fire just lit, and the boiler and pipes filled
with cold water — that is, of equal density. The water in the boiler exposed to
the heat will gradually get more rarified, and is displaced by the denser body
which rushes in and takes its place, which is also made lighter and is again
displaced, causing suction along the whole length of piping, drawing the water
onwards in its wake, — and shows that however high the piping at the extreme
end, the real centre of circulation is in the boiler, and the quicker the water is
heated the qiiicker its displacement and the stronger the suction, and, as a con-
sequence, the more rapid is the circulation of water in the pipes. I would here
point out also that the higher the ascending pipes, the more suction is required
by the descent to draw the water from the ascending pipes, and in this way
the high elevation is equalised to a proportionate degree. As I have based
my argument on suction, and it brought about by displacement of the lighter
by a heavier body in the boiler, I may be allowed to show that it is suction
that causes the circulation of hot water in pipes, and this can be conveniently
exemplified by drawing a portion of the water off, leaving a vacuum at the
highest point : the remaining body of water will then find a common level,
and circulation in the pipes will cease. This shows that if the fire forced the
heated water up the flow-pipe, it would continue to do so until the returning

1879.] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 329

pipes were empty. But that this is not the case will be evident to all who will
try this simple experiment; for the water will keep a common level, and, fire
away as we will, this state will not be altered, but the water will get heated
slowly by conduction in the flow and return, and at an equal rate : but again
fill up the pipes, and there is displacement of the rarified body by one of
greater density at a slightly lower elevation, renewed by suction in the pipes,
and causing circulation. Further, to show as a siphon that a high elevation
is no promoter of quicker circulation, take a circular vessel, A, 4 feet deep,
2 feet in diameter, and standing 4 feet higher than B, of equal size ; fill A full
of water, and then bring your siphon 12 feet high or more from A to B. Let
C and D be vessels of an equal size to A and B. Also, stand C 4 feet higher
than D. C being full of water, bring your siphon only 2 feet high, the siphon
reaching the bottom of each vessel. Let the water run in both siphons at the
same time, and 2 feet will be drawn from A and C to B and D in the same
time when the water in the vessels will have found a common level, and the
siphon will cease to act, showing that no circulation can take place until the
water in the boiler is made lighter and is displaced by the weightier column,
and that it is not necessary to have a continous rise or a high elevation to
bring about this result. Albion.

THE GARDENERS PRIMER.

NO. IV.

It is in the mode of arrangement of the vascular tissue that the
difference between the stems of monocotyledonous and dicotyledonous
plants depends, and which has given rise to the use of the words
" endogenous," as applicable to the stem-growth of monocotyledonous
plants, and " exogenous," as applicable to the stem-growth of dicoty-
ledonous plants. In the endogenous structure they are disposed
throughout the cellular tissue of the stem, without any arrangement
of pith, medullary rays, or bark, though of course there is the epidermis.
The structure of exogenous stems requires a longer description, and
then it will be only an imperfect one. Commencing at the centre of
the stem axis is the pith or medulla, formed of cellular tissue ; then
surrounding it is the medullary sheath, formed of spiral vessels ; from
the pith towards the bark, periodically continued by the new growth,
are flattened cells, called pith rays or medullary rays, — they apparently
keep up the connection with the pith and the new growth, which
would otherwise be shut off by the heart-wood, and also strengthen
the stem fabric ; then come layers of cellular tissue, called ligneous
tissue or woody fibre (the older portion of cellular tissue hardened by
deposit, and through which little or no sap can flow), called heart-
wood or duramen, the use of which to the stem is to give it mechani-
cal strength ; next come the younger layers of cellular tissue c -ltside
the duramen, called the sap-wood or alburnum. It is through the

330 THE GARDENER. [July

cells of this tissue that sap rising from the roots passes to the leaves ;
and as each new growth or formation of cells is made exterior to tho
alburnum periodically — not necessarily yearly — there will be a new
layer of growth, which will indicate one period of growth, whether
of one year or less. In tropical climates, if the trees shed their
leaves three times in a year, or five times in two years, we should
expect to find as many layers of wood ; the innermost tissue of the
alburnum becomes in its turn solidified and hardened by deposit, and
in its turn becomes heart -wood or duramen. Then comes the
cambium, or the cambium layer, variously described in its earlier
stages as " semi-fluid mucilage," " viscid secretion," " cambial or for-
mative tissue," " opaque fluid," or " mucilaginous semi-fluid matter ;
but it is cellular tissue of delicate texture filled with assimilated
granular matter in a state of vital activity forming new cells ; and
in this tissue the primary vascular tissue, or bundles, as they are
sometimes called, originate : here all the changes of the new growth
take place, and with it the leaves seem to be in connection : it is
found even at the point of the stem (punctum vegetationis) under the
bud. Part of it goes to form the new woody fibre of the alburnum,
and to continue the medullary rays in the direction of the bark ; other
part of it goes to add to the internal bark or liber ; and other part
separates the alburnum and the bark. The bark may be said to con-
sist of three principal layers of cell-tissue — the inner one of fibro-
vascular tissue, called the endophlceum or liber, the bast layer ; the
middle layer of cells, differing from the external layer, called the
mesophloeum ; and the external or corky layer, epiphloeum ; and then
the epidermis. The pith wood and medullary rays may be seen in
the herbaceous stems of an exogenous plant ; and there are medullary
rays, but no pith, in the roots of exogenous plants. JSTo hard and
fast rules can be laid down by man which will always explain the
works of nature, and accordingly there will be found among the
exogenous plants exceptions to our explanations of the formation
and arrangement of its tissue. In the Calycanthea3 (Caroline All-
spice family) there are some species which form woody columns
in the bark, independent of the central woody formation ; and in
some climbing plants a greater thickness of the medullary rays than
usual will be found. In dicotyledonous plants the division of the
stem into nodes, with internodes or spaces between, is taken advan-
tage of by the gardener to increase the number of plants : this he
does either by making cuttings of a portion of the stem at a leaf-bud
just below a node, which, when placed in soil and warmth, will soon
emit roots ; or by layering the stem or branch to the earth, fixing it at
a node to the ground, and making an incision with a knife into the

i879-] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 331

node on the under side, and so forming a layer which will soon emit
roots. It is thought that the presence of vascular tissue at the node is
the cause of the rooting faculty of the cutting or layer. A cutting
made of the internode of the stem only, without the node, will not
grow ; nor will any cutting, however made (with or without a node),
of a monocotyledonous plant grow.

In complete union with the stem is the leaf, which in land-plants
is formed of parenchyma, traversed by veins of fibro-vascular tissue,
furnished at its upper surface with a covering or epidermis, then with
a layer of cells flattened by the pressure of the atmosphere, then a
layer of cells filled with chlorophyll granules, and then air-cells, and
again an epidermis filled with stomata or breathing pores forming the
under surface of the leaf. The leaves of aquatic plants are formed
differently — the distribution of veins in the leaves is called venation,
and for the most part they are reticulated in the dicotyledonous
plants, and parallel in monocotyledonous plants; but some families,
such as Smilaceoe, have not unfrequently reticulated leaves. They
are usually described according to their position, such as opposite, or
alternate ; or to their mode of insertion, as by a stalk, or as sessile, or
as sheathed, or whether simple or compound (the descriptions of the
forms and names given to leaves are too long for insertion here), or
whether they have any appendages or not ; and the edges of leaves,
called circumscription, have been found to possess capital character-
istics for their descriptions ; sometimes they are annual ; and the
trees bearing leaves subject to the process of annually dropping or
shedding their leaves are called deciduous trees. (Sometimes the
leaves continue longer than a year, and the trees are then called
evergreen or persistent — that is, not falling off. Some leaves — not,
however, strictly leaves — have on the centre midrib the flower, such
as Ruscus aculeatus. There is a popular notion that every leaf
originates in a cell of the stem, and that with increase of cells comes
increase of foliage ; and that each leaf has a corresponding root, and
that with increase of foliage there must be increase of roots. It is
difficult to trace the origin of these ideas.

The leaf containing in its cells chlorophyll, exercises a great power
in the life of the plant. By the performance of some hidden function,
due to cell-life in the presence of sunlight, the plant obtains its car-
bon, and the process is said to be as follows : during the action of
sunlight upon the leaf of a plant, the green chlorophyll granules per-
form some function, not yet clearly shown what, by which carbon
dioxide (carbonic acid), absorbed by the leaf from the atmosphere, is
decomposed, and the carbon is retained, probably in conjunction with
hydrogen in the water of the cell, some oxygen is set free, and some

332 THE GARDENER. [July

retained ; it is rather a function of biology than of chemistry ; a dead
leaf has not this power. It may be here stated that it has been said,
and probably correctly, that the hydrogen present in plant-life is more
probably derived from the water in the cells containing chlorophyll
than from ammonia.

THE GRAPES AT ERNESPIE, NEAR CASTLE DOUGLAS.

Many of your readers will remember that Mr Kirk, gardener, Ernes-
pie, carried away first honours for the best eight varieties of Grapes
at the September show of the Royal Caledonian Society's meeting
last September. His Grapes are equally, if not more, promising this
year. This refers to nearly the whole of the varieties Mr Kirk grows ;
but the most remarkably promising specimens are the Duke of Buc-
cleuch. Both the wood and bunches of this variety are remarkable for
their vigour. Several of the bunches of this variety are expected, if
they finish as they did last year, to weigh from 5 to 6 lb. Mr Kirk
uses much less moisture in his vineries than many Grape-growers, and
it is his opinion that not only does this account for the splendid con-
dition of the Duke, but of the other varieties as well. Whatever is
the cause of it, the Duke does not succeed in very many gardens, and
it certainly is to be regretted, for it is a very fine Grape.

A Visitor.

CHAM.EDOREA HARTWEGII.

It is the elegant or the majestic habit of Palms, and the conspicuous
character and freshness of their leaves, which distinguish them as
decorative plants. Some Palms also possess floral charms, in which
respect none are more beautiful than Chamcedorea Hartwegii, which
develops its branched spadices, studded with numerous orange-
coloured petals, during winter and spring. The male plants are more
showy than the female, but when the former have shed their bloom,
the latter become ornamental by the production of fruit, which
remains till the close of autumn. The Chamredorea is a native of
Caraccas, an elevated region near the coast of Venezuela, 10° north
latitude, consequently it thrives best in a stove or an intermediate
house. Plants 2 feet high and upwards make good flowering speci-
mens ; but in order to secure an effective display, three conditions
are essential — namely, liberal supplies of water and of liquid manure
during the time of active growth ; exposure to air and sunlight, so
far as this can be done without scorching ; and lastly, the destruction
of scale and bug, which often lodge unobserved in the axils of the
leaves. Standard plants will succeed for several years in a 10-inch
pat, but to prevent its becoming too dry in the heat of summer, I

1879.] SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. 333

place flats below them. The soil should consist of a good fibry
loam with a little sand added, and the petting must be firmly done.
Fertilisation is effected simply by placing the two sexes so that
the pollen falls on the female spadix ; but the operation must be
performed when the stigma is well seen, and when the stamens will
bear a touch with the point of a knife. Our plants have bloomed
in succession since November, and those which were impregnated
are swelling their fruit. James Scott.

Edinburgh Botanic Gardens, March 11, 1879.

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The monthly meeting was held in the hall, 5 St Andrew Square, on the evening
of Tuesday the 3d ult. — Mr Hugh Fraser, Vice-President, in the chair. After a
variety of preliminary business, Mr William Sutherland, manager, Craigleith
Nursery, read a paper upon "Alpine Plants." Dealing, in the first place, with the
claims of these plants upon all who had to do with decorative gardening, and
strongly urging that they deserved more attention and more extensive cultiva-
tion, even in the most fashionable gardens, than had been usual for many years
past, he adverted to their value as a means of education, — their large number and
specific diversity of character being eminently fitted to engage the interest of
young gardeners, and to lead them to acquire a more exact and scientific know-
ledge of plants than they in a general way possess at the present time. Turning
to their culture, he gave a brief statement of the general conditions under which
they are found in nature, from which he drew a variety of practical deductions,
calculated to assist those who were beginning their cultivation. Alpines from
high altitudes he had found more difficult to manage than those from lower
levels, and he recommended such to be grown in pots, and kept in cold frames or
pits, so as to secure the complete control of ventilation, shade, and moisture. It
was pointed out, however, that by far the greater number of the species, and
those by no means the least ornamental, were amenable to treatment as ordinary
border or rock- work plants, where, under fairly favourable circumstances, they
soon established themselves, and formed a permanent source of interest. In
regard to rock-work, the author held that, provided good drainage could be
secured, a low or even hollow site was preferable to such as was high and ex-
posed. So far as soil was concerned, he had found a good loam the most gener-
ally useful — such species as required peat, peaty composts, or calcareous soils being
comparatively few in number. An interesting conversation followed the reading
of the paper, at the close of which Mr Sutherland received a cordial vote of
thanks.

The table as usual was crowded with plants and cut flowers for exhibition,
prominent among which were stands of Zonale Pelargoniums and double Petunia
blooms, from Mr A. M'Leod, Powburn. A seedling Alpine Auricula, named
William Sang, from Mr William Young, 33 South Bridge : this is a remarkably
fine flower, with smooth edges, a perfectly circular deep maroon edge, and bright
golden eye. As might have been expected from a seedling of last year, the plant
was small, and the Floral Committee, to whom it was submitted for a certificate,
recommended its being grown for another year. Mr G. L. Brown, Millburn
Cottage, had a collection of seedling Polyanthus, all very showy, and in one or
two cases considerably above the average. Mr Scott, The Gardens, Corbet Castle,

334 THE GARDENER. [July

Broughty- Ferry, sent a well-bloomed specimen of a new double Cineraria, named
Mrs Joseph Grimond. The flowers of this plant are of a showy crimson colour,
and, though the petals are somewhat rough and irregularly arranged, the Floral
Committee judged it a sufficient improvement upon its predecessors to be worthy
of a first-class certificate. Messrs Downie & Laird exhibited a stand of seedling
Pansies and Violas, including a fine new white variety called Mrs F. Mackenzie.
Mr L. Dow, Saughton House, exhibited branches of Bibes aurea, an old-fashioned
American deciduous shrub, too much neglected in our modern shrubberies.
Messrs Thomas Methven & Sons had a plant of Ehododendron, Hugh Fraser
— a variety raised in their establishment a few years ago. The flowers are rosy
purple ; and though only about eight inches above the pot, it had seven fully
developed trusses. This sort, apart from the beauty of its colour, seems to de-
serve attention for its dwarf compact habit, and for its remarkable free-flowering
quality. Messrs Dickson & Co. contributed a large collection of interesting sub-
jects, including a branch of Pyrus malus floribunda, covered from end to end
with blossoms, rich crimson outside and white within ; Ledum palustre, an
American shrub, with terminal corymbs of white flowers ; Kalmia glauca superba,
with bright pink cup-shaped blossoms ; Berberis Stenophylla, described as a
hybrid between B. Darwinii and B. empetrifolia, with a resemblance to both
parents, but much more fioriferous ; (Enothera Fraseria, a neat, compact, semi-
shrubby plant, with rich golden foliage, covered with black spots — this will
undoubtedly be worth a trial for spring bedding ; Violas, including many of
the popular varieties, and two of great merit, named Acme and Formosa, the
one of a rich purplish-crimson colour, and the other a beautiful lavender self,
with dark eye. Interesting hybrids of Alpine Phloxes, of the frondosa and
Nielsonii type, were shown by Mr P. Lindsay, Eoyal Botanic Gardens.

It was intimated that at next meeting Mr J. Grieve would read a paper on
"Florist Flowers," Mr A. M'Kinnon one on the "Strawberry," and Mr Robert
Lindsay one on " Filmy Ferns."

GEAND SUMMER SHOW.

Eoyal Horticultural Society. May 27th, 28th, 29th, and 30th.

This annual show, as evinced by the number of exhibitors and attendance
of visitors, is fast becoming very popular, and quite worthy of the distinguished
patronage usually bestowed upon it. On the present occasion it was honoured
by the presence, on the opening day, of her Eoyal Highness the Princess of
"Wales, accompanied by the young Princess Victoria of Wales, the Duke and
Duchess of Edinburgh, the Crown Prince of Denmark, the Crown Prince of
Sweden, the Duke of Teck, &c. The tents in which the exhibits were arranged
commenced near the Council-room with a long narrowr one, which led up to
a very large or monster tent in which was to be found most of the finest plants,
including the Eoses, all of which were arranged on turfy banks intersected
with good walks. The Eoses were shown in perfection for the first time this
season, and were certainly the greatest attraction of the show. In the class
for nine pot-Eoses, Mr C. Turner, Slough, was iirst with magnificent specimens
of Celine Forestier, Madame Therese Levet, Victor Verdier, Edward Morren,
La France, Duke of Edinburgh, Madame de St Joseph, and Charles Lawson.
The plant of the latter variety was perhaps the best in the show, and some
idea can be formed of the size and beauty of this and the companion plants, when

i879-] GRAND SUMMER SHOW. 335

it is stated to be 7 feet high, and carrying fully three hundred perfect blooms.
The second prize collection, shown by Messrs G. Paul & Son, Cheshunt, were
but little inferior to Mr Turner's, and far superior to those staged by them at
the last year's show. Their largest and best-bloomed plant was a very fine
specimen of Celine Forestier ; and Charles Lawson, John Hopper, and Prin-
cess Mary of Cambridge were also very fine. In the class for twenty pot-
Roses, the positions were reversed, Mr G. Paul securing the premier prize
with a group of large, healthy, and well-bloomed plants, among which the
Marquise de Castellane, President, and Madame Victor Verdier were very
noticeable. Mr Turner was placed second with a group of smaller, but highly
creditable plants ; and Messrs J. Lane & Sons, Great Berkhampstead, third, for
well -grown specimens in 10 -inch pots. Mr Moorman showed well in the
amateur class for six pot-Roses. Messrs Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, also ex-
hibited a large group of pot-Roses, not for competition. Among these were
interspersed a number of dwarf plants of Japanese Maples, the elegant and
beautiful green foliage of which added much to the beauty of the group.

Near to the Roses, and apparently equalling them in their attractiveness,
was the large group of Clematises exhibited by the Messrs Jackman & Sou,
Woking. The plants were well grown and flowered, and included all the
leading varieties, the various shades of blue, &c, contrasting well with the
Roses. Azaleas, both as exhibited by nurserymen and amateurs, were very
fine and showy, some of the plants being 6 feet high and literally covered with
bloom. In the Nurserymen's class, Mr C. Turner, Messrs Jackson & Sons, and
Mr Wills were 1st, 2d, and 3d respectively ; and among the amateurs, Messrs
Child, R,atty, and Weston were successful.

Orchids were well represented : the finest group of fifteen distinct species in
the show, and which obtained for the exhibitor the valuable prize of £20, was
staged by Mr J. Douglas, Loxford Hall. His finest plant was a grand speci-
men of Dendrobium nobile, fully 4 feet through ; and Cattleya Warneri,
Cypripedium villosum, and Dendrobium thyrsiflorum were also very good.
Mr H. James, Castle Nursery, received the second, and Messrs Jackson &
Sons the third prize — good specimens staged in both instances. In the
nurserymen's class, Mr B. S. Williams, Holloway, was awarded the first prize
for an excellent group, which included excellent specimens of Odontoglossum
vexillarium, Masdevallia Lindenii, Cypripedium Swannianum, Cattleya Mossiae,
&c. Mr James was second in this class.

Mr W. Bull was the only exhibitor of Odontoglossums, and received the
first prize for a highly creditable group.

There were three classes for stove and greenhouse plants in flower : in the
open class for twelve, Messrs Jackson & Sons, Kingston, were placed first for
fine plants of Chorozema Lowii, Dracophyllum gracile, Anthurium Schertzeri-
anum, Pimelia Hendersonii, Erica depressa, Azaleas Due de Nassau and
Stella, Clerodendron Balfourianum, Hedaroma Fuchsioides, Aphelexis pur-
purea, and Macrantha rosea. Messrs Jackson & Sons were also first in the
Nurserymen's class for eight plants in flower. In the corresponding class for
amateurs, Mr J. Child, Garbrand Hall, Ewell, secured the first prize with a
very meritorious group.

In the Amateurs' class for eight fine-foliage plants, Mr Rann, Handcross,
Sussex, was placed first with grand specimens of Crotons multicolor, varie-
gatum, and augustifolium, Areca sapida, Latania borbonica, Cycas revoluta,
Dasylirion glaucum, and Zamia Lehmannii. Mr Penfold also showed well in
this class, and obtained the second prize.

336 THE GARDENER. [July

Mr Child had the best six stove and greenhouse Ferns, his specimens of
Gleichenias Mendellii and G. Microphylla, C. ibotium Sehiedei, Dicksonia
antarctica, Leptopteris superba, and Adiantum Farleyense being remark-
ably good.

Mr Wills staged the best Gloxinias ; Messrs J. Laing & Co., Forest Hill, the
best Tuberous Begonias ; and Mr Parker the best Hardy Plants.

Mr W. Bull was placed first for twelve new plants; Mr Wills second; and
Mr B. S. Williams third. There were three competitors for the handsome
silver cups, offered by Mr W. Bull for twelve new plants, sent out by him
since 1S76. Mr Rann secured the first prize with well -grown plants of
Lomaria Dalgairnsice, Kentia Wendlandi ; Croton3 princeps, picturatum,
Heudersonii, and Williamsii ; Dracaenas, rex, vivicans, Goldieana, Robinsoni-
ana, and Dieffenbachia illusoris. Mr Penfold, Beddington, was placed second ;
and Mr J. Hammond, Brayton, third. There were four groups arranged for
the prizes offered for a group of miscellaneous plants arranged for effect, and
occupying a space not exceeding 300 square feet, all of whom showed great
taste in their arrangement of innumerable, and in some instances very valuable
plants. Mr Wills secured the premier prize (£15) with a grand group, ar-
ranged in his well-known and unequalled style, though in our opinion scarcely
so good as those arranged by him last year. The groundwork consisted of
Lycopodiums, Adiantums, &c. Out of these were springing out groups of
choice foliage and liowering plants ; and towering over the whole many noble
specimen Palms, Ferns, &c. Messrs Laing & Co. secured the second prize with
a well-arranged and valuable group ; and Messrs Peed & Sons and Mr Aldons
were placed equal, third; the group arranged by the latter consisting entirely
of white flowering and green foliage plants, and was both chaste and novel.
Mr B. S. Williams had the first prize for a group of flowTering-plants, staging
a splendid lot of plants in his well-known style. Several valuable groups of
plants, not for competition, were sent by the Messrs Veitch & Sons, Cutbush
& Sons, Osborn & Sons, Mr B. S. Williams, and Mr Boiler. In addition to
the group of foliage and flowering plants, Messrs Osborn & Sons staged an
attractive and instructive group of hardy plants. Boxes of cut Ptoses came
from Mr W. Paul, and a group of remarkably well-flowered Azaleas from the
Societies' garden at Chiswick. The liberal prizes offered for fruit and vege-
tables failed to attract many competitors ; this, however, is rightly attributed
to the backwardness of the season, of which complaints were to be heard on
all sides. The class for Black Hamburgs was a fair one ; but the white
Grapes staged in the other classes were of very inferior colour, although said
to be fit for the table. The first prize bunches of Black Hamburg, staged by
Mr P. Edwards, Liphook, were rather loose, but in other respects were very
good ; and the same remark applies to those staged by Mr W. Johnstone, Bay-
ham Abbey, to which was awarded the second prize. The only stand of Mus-
cat of Alexandria wTas put up by Mr J. Maher, Stoke Court, which, although
apparently unripe, secured that exhibitor the first prize. In the class for any
other white Grape, Mr Atkins, Wantage, was placed first, and Mr P. Edwards
second, both staging fair examples of Buckland Sweetwater. The competition
in the classes for Pine Apples was very weak indeed, none of the fruit staged
being particulurly fine ; and in one instance — that for two specimens — the first
prize was withheld, Mr Rutland, Goodwood, being awarded the second for
a moderate-sized Charlotte Rothschild, and a small Queen. Mr Rutland se-
cured the first prize in the class for one Queen (no second was awarded), and
was the only exhibitor in the class for any other variety, receiving the first

i879-] "JACK FROST." 337

prize for a well-ripened Charlotte Rothschild. Mr G. T. Miles was the only-
exhibitor in the class for one Smooth Cayenne, and received the first prize for
a good fruit.

Melons were staged in good numbers, and of good quality, the prize fruit
being of fair size and well netted. Mr C. Deaven, Staines, was placed first
for Windsor Gem, a seedling of his own raising ; Mr J. Chilton, Setsworth,
second, with Queen Emma'; and Mr Goldsmith, Tonbridge, third, with Reade's
Hybrid. One dish of Peaches and two of Nectarines only were staged. A
dish of small fruit of Stirling Castle Peach gained Mr Maher the first prize ;
and the same exhibitor was first for Nectarines with very high-coloured and
handsome fruit of Hants Tawny. Mr Nash, New Shoreham, was awarded the
second prize for a good dish of Violette Hative Nectarine. Mr G. S. Miles met
with no opposition in the classes for Cherries, and obtained both first prizes
with excellent dishes of Black Circassian and Elton. Strawberries were well
shown, notably the first prize collection of three varieties, consisting of Sir J.
Paxton, Sir C. Napier, and President, staged by Mr Norman, Hatfield Park ;
and the single unnamed dish, apparently either President or Yicomtesse
Hericart de Thury, staged by the Messrs Barnwell & Tilbury, Worthing. The
best dish of Tomatoes was staged by MrW. Iggulden, Romford; and the next
best by Mr G. T. Miles. The former staged a good dish of Trophy, and the
latter Stamfordian.

Mr G. T. Miles was awarded the first prize for a collection of new dishes of
vegetables ; and Mr Iggulden, the only other exhibitor, was a very good
second. Mr Miles's collection consisted of Stamfordian Tomatoes, Queen
Onions, Nantes Horn Carrots, Unique Peas, Canadian Wonder Beans, Veitch's
Asbleaf Potatoes, Mushrooms, Broccoli, Tender and True Cucumbers, and As-
paragus—all being creditable examples.

Southern Correspondent.

"JACK FROST" IN THE ' GARDENERS' CHRONICLE.'

We have learned that " J. Downie's " signature was appended to
the verses " Jack Frost," in the ' Gardeners' Chronicle,' by mistake of
one of the officials connected with our contemporary, which led to an
apparent plagiarism, and to its exposure in our columns. We take
this opportunity of stating our belief that Mr Downie never in-
tended the verses to appear with his signature attached to them.

©uituarg Kottce.

Among the many distinguished botanists and horticulturists who have recently
been removed by death, few, if any among them, will be more regretted than
the late Dr Moore of Glasnevin Botanic Gardens, Dublin, who died rather
suddenly on Monday, June 9th. Dr Moore was a gentleman who was very
widely known for his eminent talents, and respected by all who knew him for
his unassuming genial nature. He was a native of Dundee, and began his
horticultural career in the gardens of Camperdown, near that town. Like not

338

THE GARDENER.

[July

a few whose careers were afterwards very successful, he spent a few years in
the then celebrated nurseries of Mr Cunningham, Comely Bank, Edinburgh ;
after which, in 1828, he went to the College Gardens, Dublin, to assist Dr
Mackay, the then curator, whom he afterwards succeeded. From this position
he was removed by being appointed curator and director of the Botanic Gar-
dens, Glasnevin, which post he held for many years. As a botanist and
hybridiser, as well as a cultivator, Dr Moore stood very high. He was a con-
stant, successful, and hard worker in both the departments of botanical
science and practical horticulture. No pains nor trouble did he shrink from
to render his charge interesting and instructive, and for this purpose he travel-
led far and wide in almost every country in Europe. In 1S65, the University
of Zurich acknowledged his valuable services to science by conferring on him
the degree of Doctor of Philosophy.

-•: :7" * '

©alcnfcar*

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

This month, especially towards the
end, is generally considered the warm-
est of the whole season, consequently
the greatest amount of moisture at
roots of plants is required, — and when
such is rendered necessary it is well to
do the work on something like sound
principles. "We often see much time,
labour, and expense wasted on water-
ing by unskilful cultivators. And this
is the least of the evil. Instead of ren-
dering aid to the starving plants, much
mischief is done, and often total destruc-
tion. The source of the evil is from
the too frequent cause of pumping
water from a well and carrying it direct
to the plants. The word "plants " has
a broad meaning, — vegetables, flower-
ing-plants in beds and borders, plants
in pots, shrubs, trees of ornamental
character, and all that is connected
with gardening ; but at present we
particularly refer to those placed in
the kitchen-garden for culinary pur-
poses. To be explicit, we would say,
rather leave watering alone with veget-
ables than do it badly ; but with
water from a large tank, pond, or
some other means of holding water
till it is warmed by sun and aerated,
great good can be done to roots and
foliage. Let the surface be well
broken, and during the latter part of
the day (duriug the summer season)
give such quantities as will reach well
below the roots, making the ground
saturated, and when the surface be-

I comes dry enough to work the hoe,
j let it be thoroughly used all round
i the plants, taking care that any
! kinds which root near the surface
I are not injured; then, if convenient,
; and the material at hand, a good
' mulching with half-rotten litter (long
! grass or manure answers) will pro-
bably do all that is required dur-
| ing the remainder of the season.
| But in the majority of cases this is
not to be easily had, and to make up
for its absence frequent application of
the hoe or prong, to keep a loose sur-
face, will do much to meet the difficul-
ties caused by drought. If seeds are
to be sown, a good soaking to the pre-
pared ground the night before the
sowing is to be performed will give
opportunities of raising seedlings suc-
cessfully. This is very applicable when
sowing Radishes, Cabbage, Turnips,
and other small seeds. Shading with
mats, branches of evergreens, and such-
like, is often resorted to with success ;
but a thoroughly moist soil before
sowing is very important. When
planting, some are very careful to do
the work during wet weather. We
always prefer doing it during a period
when the ground is neither wet nor
dry. But this cannot always be the
case, and the medium course is the
most desirable. Boots of the Brassica
kind of plants to be dipped in a thin
puddle of cow-manure : light soil, and
a pinch of soot, well mixed, is an old

i379-

CALENDAR.

339

practice, and with ourselves a practice
which saves all the labour of watering.
If the stems, well to the hearts of the
plants, are immersed in this, they are
likely to. resist the attacks of grubs
and snails. A handful of fine ashes
mixed with a little lime and soot (guano
with the ashes is capital for a double
purpose) generally secures the plants
against depredators. We can do little
to check such vermin without dust-
ing the whole surface of the ground
under crop. Cracked and baked sur-
faces must be carefully guarded against.
A'ery firm soil, which has been years
under good manipulation and not
manured at present, we are strongly
in favour of when plants have to stand
severe winters in such positions. The
past winter has shown us that firm
moderate growth is the most desirable
in every case. Broccoli being planted
out forthwith should not be of gross
growth : and they are not safe in very
loose rich soils. Get all and sundry
of the winter crops out as early as cir-
cumstances will allow. Better to
transplant thickly for a time on spare
ground till the winter-quarters are
ready, than to allow the plants to get
weakened in the seed rows or beds.
When such plants are carefully moved
and transplanted at once during August,
or even later, a firm growth is secured,
which is likely to battle against frost
or severe damp. Borecole (Kale) Cab-
bage (for Coleworts), Savoys, succes-
sion crops of Brussels Sprouts and
advanced Cauliflower plants may all
be planted without delay. Leeks,
Lettuce for autumn, Endive for suc-
cessions, Parsley to stand the winter,
and Celery in well-manured trenches
(single, double, or triple rows in a
trench, as preferred), may be planted
during the month. It is not so desir-
able, as in bygone days, to have large
succulent Celery — firm, crisp, nutty-
flavoured produce is more preferable.
There should be few outside leaves to
Celery, but it should be solid and
firm. The red kinds, according to our
experience last winter, stood much
better than the whites ; but some like
the latter because of purity of colour :
and the dwarf kinds of them are the
hardiest. Kinds pricked out to make
a last planting for very late supplies
should be now growing on a bed of
very solid sweet manure, firm, and only
a few inches deep. When watering is

done, let "dribbling " be looked upon
as a "destroyer." Manure- water to
Celery gives crispness ; and on dry soil
applications of moisture is indispen-
sable. Mulching is of much service in
raising fine Celery. The material for
the purpose may be rich short manure.
Sowings may be made, as demands re-
quire, of Turnips, Carrots (for supplies
of young roots), Eadishes (Turnip
kinds are now best), and Spinach
(round kind), in the shade and between
other crops. Peas may be sown in
southern districts for a chance crop :
dwarf kinds, which can later in the
season have protection by frames or
"protectors," may be sown in favour-
able positions, so may also French
Beans. Sow Parsley for winter sup-
plies : choose a border where protection
may be given during severe weather.
Thinnings of Parsley trans2>lanted now
and kept well trimmed in till autumn,
then allowed to grow, will be stiff and
well prepared to stand a w*inter of
severe weather. Cabbage is sown by
many from beginning to end of month,
according to the district's latitude :
from the 10th to 25th is a safe period,
but by all means we would advise
making two sowings : and the smaller
portion of the seedlings do well when
transplanted to stand the winter. In
spring their value is often found out,
if only to give to unfortunate neigh-
bours, especially of the cottager- class.
To great numbers we have often ren-
dered assistance from this little aux-
iliary. This season, after supplying
many, we thinned out the stock on
the ground where they stood, and
have had a capital succession to the
main planting, which has been cut,
and now turning in plenty of tender
Sprouts, which we find are more valued
by many cooks (especially French
ones) than hearted-Cabbage. Keep
down weeds everywhere by attacking
them often, and before they become
established. Seeding of weeds alwaj^s
increases the amount of labour, and
is often of great injury to the crops.
Staking and topping of Peas and
Runners must not be overlooked :
and get all ground filled wich useful
crops — as Potatoes, Beans, and Peas
are cleared off.

Cucumbers on ridges require top-
ping, thinning, mulching, and training.
Gherkins and Vegetable Marrowshould
have attention in the same manner

340

THE GARDENER.

[July

before they become matted. Toma-
toes require frequent attention, water-
ing with liquid manure when plenty
of fruit is set. Those in pots need
rich surfacing, and should be allowed
to root through into rich material. No
useless laterals should be allowed to

grow, and the plants should be trained
according as growth is made.

Manure for an early Mushroom-bed
may be collected. Keep it free from
wet and not allowed to exhaust itself.
Gather and dry herbs in the shade.
M. T.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — If the weather should be
such as is generally looked for in
July, tire-heat even in the coldest
localities will not be much required ;
and in the warmer parts of the
country it will be almost entirely
superseded by the more invigorating,
because natural, heat of the sun.
Still, if a time of dull wet weather
should occur, fires must be lighted
to keep the atmosphere in pits and
houses from stagnating, and the heat
from falling much below the maxi-
mum. Succession plants for fruiting
early next season wall, under favour-
able conditions, be growing very
rapidly, and every precaution must
be exercised to preveut them making
a soft drawn growth. Liberal sup-
plies of fresh air on all fine days is
the chief agent in producing a robust
and fruitful growth. As soon as the
temperature touches 75° in the morn-
ing, give a little air, and increase
it at intervals till noon, when, in
warm calm weather, a free circulation
of air should play about the plants.
Syringe these every fine afternoon
through a fine rose at shutting-up
time, which should be sufficiently
early to run up the heat to 85° for
a time. The night temperature at
10 p.m. should be 75°, allowing it to
fall to 70° in the morning. Owing to
the backwardness of the season, some
of the early Queens, which are gen-
erally all cut by this time, may be
just finishing off, and can be removed
to any cooler airy place when near-
ly ripe. The suckers of these will
be ready by the middle or end of
the month for being potted into
7-inch pots. When potted, plunge
in a bottom heat of 90°, and give them
plenty of room. Shade for a few
hours in the middle of the day, and
keep them rather close until the first
signs of emitting roots, when they
should have a good watering and
the shadingbe gradually discontinued.
Fruit now swelling off may, if neces-

sary, be pushed on with a higher
temperature than is desirable early in
the season. Keep them well supplied
with guano-water. Make the most
of sun-heat by shutting up early, so
that the thermometer touch 90° for a
short time, with a thoroughly moist
atmosphere. See that the pots are
resting firmly in the plunging ma-
terial, for if it shrinks from the pots
the soil dries sooner, and much more
frequent waterings are necessary,
which is undesirable. Now is a good
time to start a late batch of fruiters
for winter ripening. If, according to
former directions, these have been
kept cooler and drier for a month, all
other things being equal, an increase
of heat and moisture should now
bring them into fruit.

Grapes. — We would reiterate former
directions in reference to all Vines
from which the Grapes are gathered,
and urge the necessity of keeping the
foliage healthy and active to the last.
Give them occasional washings with
the engine, and see that the borders
are not dry. Late Grapes intended
to hang late on the Vine should be
examined, and if any of the bunches
are likely to be too thick, lose no
time in removing some of the ber-
ries. It is best to thin sufficiently
at first, but it sometimes occurs that
the rule is not applied to all bunches,
and the sooner the defect is remedied
the better. If this month should be
dry, all Vines swelling off crops
should be well watered either with
liquid manure, or thorough mulch-
ings of rich manure. Many Vines
are starved for want of water in
warm summers. Leave air on all
vineries throughout the night. For
night ventilation we prefer closing
the top lights and opening the
bottom ones. Muscats, even in fa-
voured localities as to climate,
should still have a little fire-heat at
night and on cold cloudy days. As
soon as any crop shows first signs of

i879.

CALENDAR.

341

colouring, give inside borders a good
soaking ; and the same applies to out
side borders if the weather be dry
"With a good mulching, a good soak
ing will carry them safely to ma
turity. Black Hamburgs should be
coloured as slowly as possible at this
hot season, and the vinery should
never be closely shut up. Look
over all Vines twice weekly, and re-
move all lateral growths as they
present themselves. Young Vines
intended to bear next year should
be stopped when they reach to near
the top of the house, and their lateral
growths be limited to one leaf. Should
they, however, be very vigorous, and
there be any chance of their starting
the buds on the main stem, let the lat-
erals make two or more leaves for a
time. Permanent Vines intended to
be cut back will be all the better and
stronger for being allowed to cover
all the roof with side growths ; for
in proportion to the top growth will
be the extent of roots produced. If
pot - Vines for fruiting early next
year have done well, they will now
be strong canes with well-developed
buds, and the bottom parts of them
changing to a brownish hue. Give
them an increased circulation of air,
and do not let them make any fresh
lateral growth. See that, now the
pots are full of roots, they never get
too dry, and expose them as much as
possible to sunshine, so that the wood
gets thoroughly ripened as early as
possible.

Peaches. — Let crops that are colour-
ing have abundance of air, and see that
every fruit is fully exposed to light.
Look over ripe crops every day, and
gather those that are ready for table.
Lay them on some soft material, such
as sheets of cotton-wadding covered
with tissue-paper. Give crops that
are swelling off copious watering with
liquid manure if the weather be dry.
Syringe the trees freely every after-
noon until the first signs of ripening.
To keep the foliage of trees from which
the crop is all gathered healthy and
clean, syringe them frequently with a
weak solution of soft soap. Keep them
as cool and well aired as possible, and
if the weather be dry and hot see
that the borders do not become too
dry. Tie in at intervals the shoots of
young growing trees, and stop such as
may be getting much in advance of

the others. Avoid crowding the trees
with more shoots than are necessary
to furnish them well.

Figs.— Keep a free circulation of
dry warm air among ripening crops.
Where the first crop is all gathered,
thin out the second if there is more
than the trees are likely to swell and
ripen properly. Give the trees — if
placed in restricted borders — good
waterings of guano and dung water,
never allowing the soil to become dry.
Syringe frequently to keep red-spider
at bay.

Melons. — Melons swelling off heavy
crops require much more water and
nourishment now than earlier in the
season. The beds of those growing in
Melon -houses should be top-dressed
wTith rotten manure. Red-spider is
apt to be troublesome, and the foliage
should be freely syringed at shutting-
up time. Very little fire-heat will now
be necessary, except during a period
of sunless weather. Expose ripening
fruit as much as possible to the sun,
and air freely, but do not allow the
soil to become too dry. Impregnate
succession crops as soon as they are in
fit condition. Plant out, and sow for
succession crops.

Cucumbers. — Plants in full bearing
require liberal treatment at this time
of year. Water them frequently with
liquid manure, and put fresh mulch-
ings of manure on the bed. Examine
the plants occasionally, and stop youug
growths. Thin out a portion of the
old shoots, to be replaced with young
fruit-bearing ones. Syringe freely at
shutting-up time, and let the tempera-
ture run up to 85° or 90° for a time.
Cut the Cucumbers as soon as fit for
use, and thin off all malformed ones,
so as to prevent the exhaustion of the
plants.

Strawberries in Pots. — See la*t
month's Calendar. All plants should
be in their fruiting-pots by the middle
of July at the latest. In potting them,
let it be done firmly, using a rather
strong fresh loam with about a third of
well -decomposed dry cow or horse
manure and a little fine bone-meal.
In placing them to make their growth,
choose an open warm position, placing
them on something that will prevent
worms from getting into the pots.
Give them plenty of room, and never
allow them to suffer for want of
water.

342 THE GARDENER. [July 1879.

All business communications and all Advertisements should he addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for Insertion in 'The Gardener' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not for
publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and. address
of writer.

J. M. — From an examination of the leaves of your Vines we cannot discover
symptoms to account for their coming so suddenly to a standstill and ripening
their wood so very prematurely as you describe. Evidently, however, they
must have got some sudden check, and the Hamburgs — being less robust in
constitution than Alicante — have suffered most. Did you introduce any Vines
among the old ones when you replanted ? The roots and border being in such
good condition would indicate that the cause was not there. But seeing the
bad state you found them in, and considering the judicious course you have
taken with them, they may ripen their crop and do better next year.

Alfred Low. — We have tried Speed's insect annihilator, and find its effects
on mealy-bug, scale, and thrips, &c, to be exactly what is claimed for it. It
is, moreover, so thoroughly safe an application, that to inexperienced amateurs
especially it must prove invaluable ; for it does not injure the tenderest plant
when applied according to directions. The same we can also say of Speed's
remedy for mildew, and its effects are instantaneous.

Maude. — The following Violas are all excellent for bedding purposes :— Pur-
p^s, or Purplish Blues — Tory, Holyrood, Alpha. Yellows — Perpetual Yellow,
Gem. Whites— Purity, White Perfection. We never recommend tradesmen
in these pages. Apply to your ordinary or local nurseryman, who, if he has
not got them, can easily procure them for you.

J. Wills. — Owing to a press of matter we cannot make room for Eeport of
the Proceedings at Albert Hall Meeting, &c.

A Reader. — The greenhouse plant is Abutilon Thomsonii. The shrub was
in so battered a state — in a dry wooden box, without any packing to keep it
fresh — that all we can make out concerning it is that it belongs to the Cru-
ciferse. Send fresh specimen, properly packed.

N. C. — It is not mealy-bug, but a small silvery-winged fly, that infests
your Vine leaves. Tobacco-smoke destroys it ; but be careful not to fumigate
too strongly, or the softer-leaved sorts of Vines may suffer.

Several communications on heating by hot water must be held over till next
month for want of space.

ERRATA.

In our report of the " Scottish Horticultural Association " in our May issue,
Pilea muscosa nana is represented as having been exhibited by Mr Forman,
florist, Dalkeith ; the plant was however exhibited by Messrs Ballantyne &
Sou, Dalkeith.

THE

GARDENER

AUGUST 1879.

■~&^&S$&&**s-

MAKING AND PLANTING EOCKWORK.

HE making of rockwork on which to cultivate rock and
alpine plants, and also as a feature of taste and variety
in the garden, is a labour often undertaken, but one
which is very difficult to execute. Legions of examples
of rockwork are to be found all over the country, — indeed, in most
gardens, — in more or less good or bad taste, from the offensive heaps
of vitrifactions from brick and glass works, to the admirable imita-
tions of stratified rocks on a large scale executed by Pulham, with the
assistance of the mason's art and plenty cement. Indeed, so good is
the imitation that one might fancy the quarry brought bodily into the
garden, as they move houses in America. The best specimens of arti-
ficial rockwork are generally to be found where the natural rock and
rock scenery is most abundant — where Nature's materials are at hand,
and where Nature is near to' show the way. The worst specimens, on
the other hand, are to be seen where the difficulties of site and materials
are the greatest — where the products of the glassworks are pressed
into the service, and where the site would be more suggestive of a
brick-yard than of living rock. I think one grand flower-show at least
can be remembered — an international one — where the rockwork was
done in coke. Between Pulham, on the one hand, and the coke rockery
on the other, there is room for many varieties of the art and mystery,
and the gap is well filled up. When a rockery is to be made, there are
two primary objects in view. The first is, that the fabric to be con-
structed shall be pleasing to the eye, and harmonise with the surround-
ings,— that it should not look toy-like, too artificial and incongruous,
but be an agreeable feature in the garden ; and the second is, that it

344 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

be so constructed that it shall be suitable for the growth of the plants
desired to be cultivated. A rockery may be a first-rate imitation of a
real rock or cliff, showing the dips, stratification, and other features,
and yet offering but small facility for the introduction of plants, thus
favouring one of the objects at the expense of the other — just as mag-
nificent conservatories are sometimes built in which plants can only
languish.

In order that a rockery may not be an offensive or incongruous ob-
ject, the site must be well chosen. Pyramids of stones on a flat surface,
an amphitheatre, symmetrically arranged, fronting a shrubbery or in
the corner of a terrace, or in any geometrical position adjoining build-
ings, are instances of positions where rockwork would be out of place.
But given an abruptly sloping natural declivity — if adjoining water all
the better ; and if the aspect can be varied by bending round an angle,
better still — there a rockery may be made. The site may even be artifi-
cially improved in deepening the slope, by adding to its height with soil
or planting. We do not think that it is at all necessary that a rockery
should be an exact copy of nature in any of its forms — either of strati-
fied rocks or the many forms in which the detritus of rock is found.
A tasteful piece of rockwork may be made without any very close imi-
tation of nature, — just as a landscape can be thrown on canvass by the
painter which at once pleases the eye of taste, artificial though it be,
by the truthful look there is about it. A certain amount of Nature's
guidance must be admitted, as a matter of course ; for instance, irregu-
larity and variety, as if by chance, an orderly disorder — like Hamlet's
madness, " there must be method in't." The materials must be
natural fragments of rock — not water-worn stones, or stones with every
indication of the quarry about them : unstratified rock we like the best.
These can be so arranged that an endless variety of little terraces
and recesses, and pockets and ridges, from base to summit of the posi-
tion, can be made to suit any variety of plants, from the shallow-rooting
Saxifrages to the deep-rooting Gunnera. Overhanging ledges can be
made, with recesses for shade-loving plants. In short, in the construc-
tion, our second object proposed — that of preparing suitable positions
for the plants desired to be cultivated — must ever be kept in mind.
The most of our European alpine plants require a permanently moist
soil, as every one knows who has trudged the mountain slopes in search
of plants ; although many do prefer a scanty soil on cool rocks, — which
means that no position exists which may not be selected by some plant
where to live and thrive, as witness the stone-and-lime wall seen from
our window, covered with Aspleniums, and Scolopendriums, and Cete-
rach, and Drabas, and Linarias, and many more things equally green, if
with names more homely. Some require the cool moisture of running
water always among their roots, as the Parnassia, Narthecium, or Pin-
guicula ; and if a trickle can be conveyed over some part of the rock-
work, it will be the one source of success in many instances. Some

1 879.] MAKING AND PLANTING ROCKWORK. 345

will require a sharp shingly soil, as the Dianthus, which can be sup-
plied in the shape of the smaller broken chips of the rock, giving an
opportunity of varying the construction of the surface. Some plants
require a stiff holding soil, such as the Primulas, which can be supplied
in little flat terraces formed to catch all the rains. Others, as the dwarf
Veronicas, such as taurica, will thrive on dry sloping ledges : the vari-
ous Thymes, Aubrietias, Erodium, and some Geraniums are of this class.
Many of the smaller shrubs are most appropriate as rockery plants.
Ivies of the finer class, such as the variegated, may be made to creep
over large blocks, or the pretty Ampelopsis Veitchii in the same way.
Muhlenbeckia complexa, which has stood the late winter on the
rockery, is a choice plant for fringing a ledge. The Kilmarnock Weep-
ing Willow, in a dwarf form, will spread its long slender branches over
a peak of rock, as well as the Savins and Periwinkles, Helianthemums
and Genistas, and many more of a woody nature. In writing the fore-
going, we have supposed the formation of a rockery on a somewhat en-
larged scale ; of course, the extent and form of the rockery must be
determined by the requirements of the owner, and the nature of the
position to be occupied. It may be of a curved form either outwards or
inwards, it may be of a long ridge shape and undulated, or it may be in
the form of a group of hills and valleys, and need not after all cover an
extravagant area, and need not require by any means an extravagant
amount of stones. One of the best managed of this last kind we have
seen is in the grounds of the Down House, Dorset — the scale not very
large. Whatever be the shape, if the rockery has any pretension to be
anything more than a toy by the side of the walk, provision must be
made to give access to the different parts, in order to be able to clean
it and attend to the plants, and particularly that the owner may con-
veniently at any time enjoy an examination of his plants. This can be
managed by introducing a pathway, curving and undulating about,
among the compartments of the rockery. These pathways can be made
a feature of the rockery itself, and far from spoiling its appearance, can
be made an improvement. The pathway itself, of course made with
pieces of rock, should be planted with Sedums, or Stellaria, or prostrate
Pyrethrum, or any creeping plants not easily destroyed.

Sometimes a rockery can be made more imposing, if the scale is large,
by having groups of the smaller Pines planted on the higher parts, such
as Pinus Pinea, Abies orientalis, or any of the dwarfer pendulous forms
of Abies excelsa, or plants of the common Sumach, Spiraea Lindleyana,
or indeed any of the Spiraea, where they would not interfere with the
wellbeing of the choicer plants below.

When a rockery abuts upon grass, it is always well to have a narrow
margin of rough gravel following the undulations of the base, for the
sake of tidiness.

The Squire's Gardener.

346 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

The Cyclamen.
What a treasure we have in the Cyclamen as a spring-flowering
plant ! The handsome form of its flowers, the variety of its colours,
the beauty of its foliage, and its free flowering, as well as the endur-
ing quality of its flowers, combine to render it one of the most useful
spring greenhouse plants we possess. As a house plant, it is in great
request, and its flowers continue fresh a long time when gathered.
It is a very easy plant to manage, and though we very often see it
with long straggling leaves and flowers, this is the result of improper
treatment. Formerly it used to be the custom, in growing Cycla-
mens, to ripen them by withholding water from them nearly if not
altogether : this was called " drying them off," and then they were
laid away on their sides, under some greenhouse stage or other out-
of-the-way place, until the time for starting them came round again.
A better and more common-sense system now generally prevails, how-
ever, and the plants are benefited accordingly.

Under the old system, we have seen the corms grown to an im-
mense size : at one place in particular we recollect noticing a great many
that measured from 6 up to 10 inches in diameter, the larger size
being grown in 11 and 12 inch pots. They produced an immense
quantity of flowers, but generally small, and not well formed. A
great improvement has taken place in the varieties, as well as in the
mode of cultivation, some of the newer kinds beiDg exceedingly
beautiful. Such good kinds can now be raised from seed, that most
growers raise a few in this way annually, and with them replace the
older plants, which are now seldom kept longer than three or four
years at most. They are about at their best when three years old.
Good seed can be had from most of our seedsmen, though some of
them make this and kindred subjects a speciality.

Having procured good seed, sow in February, in a well-drained
pan, and in a mixture consisting chiefly of leaf-mould and sand :
cover with a piece of glass until the young plants appear, when the
glass must be removed, and light admitted freely. From their
earliest stage they should be placed in the light and near the glass.
When the young seedlings have made two leaves, pot them off singly
into small pots, using the same mixture, with a little good loam
added. It will be an advantage, in regard to moisture, to plunge
the pots in a box of sawdust, or something like that, and kept in a
growing temperature of about 60°. When they have rooted nicely in
these pots, they may get a shift into 4-inch pots, using richer soil,
made so by the admixture of well-rotted cow-dung or bone-meal.

1879.] DWARF POINSETTIAS. 347

They must still be kept in heat, and attended to in the way of water
so that they do not receive any check to their growth. About the
beginning of May they may be gradually hardened off by inuring
them to a cooler temperature, but still giving sufficient water ; and
about the middle of June turn them out into a cold frame, plunging
the pots — or, what is equally as good, if not better, plant them out
into good rich soil, keep them well aired, even removing the lights
altogether on good days, but run on again at night, or during heavy
rain. They must be potted up again about the middle of September,
using 4-inch or 5-inch pots, according to the size of the plants. They
must be returned to the frame for a week or two after potting, and
shaded slightly from the sun, until they begin to make fresh roots,
when they must get plenty of light and air, or transferred to a pit
where they can be kept near the glass and well aired. We do not
believe at all in the drying-off process ; they should always be kept
growing. The treatment during the second and succeeding years
will differ but slightly from that already described, and therefore
need not be repeated.

Those who have not the command of heated structures, but may be
in possession of a greenhouse and a frame or two, may still manage
to grow a few Cyclamens by sowing the seed early in June, and
place it in a frame, or in the greenhouse, — the young seedlings to be
potted off when fit, and transferred to the frame. Only they must
not be potted into larger than 3-inch pots, and not planted out, but
kept and wintered in this size of pot ; and in spring, after they begin
to make fresh growth, they may be shifted into larger pots, the after-
treatment being also similar to that described above. The only
difference between this mode and the other will be, that it will
require from eighteen months to two years to get them into flower.
They should be wintered in a temperature of about 50°, and kept in
a moderate state as regards moisture. J. G., W.

DWARF POINSETTIAS.

There is such a run on dwarf plants of bright colour for table use and
other purposes of furnishing in winter, that it is well to remember at
the present season how simple it is to accomplish work that may be of
paramount value to the gardener during the winter months. About
the second week of next month (August) is a good time to take cut-
tings of Poinsettias, in order to have plants from 1 foot to 18 inches
high. The tops should be taken off the strongest plants, or, if there be
two stems from the same plant, one may be cut for the purpose indi-
cated, and the other may be allowed to grow on ; in any case, the

348 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

stronger the top is when it is cut over, the finer will be the floral bract
— that is, assuming that the cuttings are judiciously managed during
the rooting period. The only difficulty in this system of raising dwarf
plants is in retaining the foliage during the rooting process. If the
tops are strong and vigorous, the leaves are naturally so too, and are
liable to fall off immediately if they are exposed to the sun only for a
moment, or if they are kept in a low, dry temperature. The practice
we adopt is to have a warm bed prepared beforehand, and to insert the
cuttings either in small 60-sized pots or into 4-inch pots at once. If
the former course is adopted, the cuttings are inserted at the sides of
the pots, in an open mixture of leaf-mould and sand, and plunged at
once into bottom-heat, and kept well shaded and syringed until they
are nicely rooted, when they are shifted into 4 or 5 inch pots, giving
them a strong compost, and shading them for a few days longer to
make certain against checks.

If the cuttings are put into 4-inch pots and intended to remain, the
pots are filled with a rich, generous soil ; and in putting in the cuttings
a layer of sand is put at the base of each, to encourage and expedite
the emission of roots, which soon takes place at this season.

After the plants are fairly rooted, they still require careful attention
in the way of shading, syringing, and watering, should the weather
continue as fickle as it is at present.

They should afterwards be kept on a shelf near the glass, in a tem-
perature not lower than from 55° to 60°, until they begin to show their
floral bracts, when they will be considerably improved by plunging
them in a bottom-heat of from 75° to 80°, and watered with liquid-
manure occasionally. Two years ago we were very successful in raising
a large batch of these plants, with bracts varying from 12 to 16 inches
in diameter, which rendered us good service in a variety of ways dur-
ing the winter. Cultivator.

STOVE-CLIMBERS.

Stephanotis floribunda.

Amongst sweet-scented flowering-plants the Stephanotis still holds a
prominent position, whether for the embellishment of ladies' hair or for
bouquet-making ; and as a plant for the exhibition-stage it has no equal.
Its pure waxy-white flowers, and the fragrant perfume they possess,
render it an attractive object in whatever way its ever-welcome flowers
are used.

The Stephanotis is very free-flowering when under good cultivation,
and deserves to be grown in every garden of any pretension. An
erroneous idea is, however, entertained by some growers that this
plant requires a strong moist heat to grow well and to produce flowers
of first-rate quality. Under such cultivation the plant will grow with

1879.] STOVE-CLIMBERS. 349

great rapidity, but the crop of flowers will only be moderate in com-
parison to the amount of growth made. Yet this rapid-growing sys-
tem is not to be altogether condemned, especially if the aim of the
grower is to get a young plant into as large a size as quickly as pos-
sible. Yet if flowers are the main object from the time the plant is in
a very small state, the greatest return will be produced by growing the
plant in an intermediate house, under the influence of light, sunshine,
and abundance of air on all favourable occasions.

The Stephanotis enjoys a drier atmosphere to grow in than a great
many plants. The blooms are produced from the young wood ; and
light and dry air are of real importance to solidify the growth as it is
made. An abundant harvest of flowers will reward the cultivator if
these conditions are strictly attended to.

The Stephanotis is a valuable climber in an intermediate or cool
stove, and will ramble with great freedom over the roof. For exhibi-
tion purposes it can be taken down, if grown in a pot, and trained
round a balloon trellis, or in any other shape that may be deemed neces-
sary. When wanted for this purpose, the young shoots are best trained
on small string, which can be cut down when ready to be placed on
the trellis. They are very much inclined to curl round the string
or wire, and are very liable to be broken when untwisting them. If
grown in a very strong heat, not only is the blooming capacity of
the plant rendered deficient, but it becomes a prey to insects,
more particularly mealy-bug, if any exist in the house in which it is
growing.

Propagation is effected by means of cuttings taken off soon after the
plants have commenced to grow, and these strike freely plunged into a
brisk bottom-heat. They are best inserted singly in small pots, using
a mixture of peat and sand. When the cuttings are well rooted, and
the roots have reached the side of the pots, they should be transferred
into 3-inch pots, in a compost of two-thirds peat and one-third rich fibry
loam, and with sufficient sand to make the whole porous. They should
also be supplied with a small upright stake, and again returned to
bottom-heat, and kept close until they begin to grow freely. WThile in
this position the young plants will grow rapidly, and will soon be
ready for larger pots ; 6-inch pots will be the next suitable size. Three
or four small stakes should be placed round the sides of the pot to train
the young shoots to, unless the position affords an opportunity to train
them underneath the roof.

If grown in a strong brisk heat, the young shoots will make exuber-
ant growth, and may, as soon as they require another shift, be transfer-
red into 9 or 10 inch pots. This size will be large enough the first
season. Supposing the plants have been trained round stakes, they
should now occupy a position near the glass, and must have their shoots
trained out thinly to get the full benefit of light. By the end of the
season they will have travelled a long way up the roof of a good-sized

350 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

house. We might here say, if bloom is the object the second season,
the plants, when well established in 9 or 10 inch pots, must be placed
in a little cooler quarters, where they can receive plenty of light and
sunshine, and a drier atmosphere than the one in which they have
been growing during the summer.

The Stephanotis will winter safely in a temperature of 45° to 50°,
provided the atmosphere is dry and the plant not too wet at the root.
We are acquainted with a large plant " planted out " that is subjected
to a much lower temperature than the one named in winter — although
it starts slowly into growth in the spring, and its growth during the
season is much shorter than if grown in a warm house. Nevertheless
the plant under these circumstances produces every year an enormous
quantity of its fragrant flowers. This plant is much more hardy than
is supposed by many. To test its hardiness, we early last season moved
a plant to a situation where we allowed the thermometer to fall on
several occasions last winter to 33°, and allowed it to start again in the
same amount of heat as an early peach-house when first started. The
plant did not die with this severe treatment, but lost a great many
leaves, and a quantity of the young wood died back. The plant
in question was long in starting, but at last broke into growth,
and commenced showing flowers from every joint, which were only
about 1 inch apart. We may safely recommend it as a conservatory
climber where a moderate temperature is kept for seasonable flow-
ering plants in winter — viz., 45° to 50°.

We do not recommend such a low temperature for a young plant
unless, as has been said, bloom is the object. If, on the other hand,
the young plant is kept in a stove-house all winter, and in February
transferred into a size larger pot, using the same compost as before re-
commended, the first season's shoots should have the unripe ends cut
off, and be laid horizontally to the right and left of the pot. By so
doing, a young shoot will start from nearly every leaf, and cover a good
space before the end of the season, if placed when potted in February
in an 11 or a 12 inch pot. This size will be large enough for the season,
if liberally supplied with weak manure-water when full of roots. The
object now is abundance of bloom the following June or July, and the
cultivator must get the wood thoroughly ripe before the dark days of
winter set in, by allowing the plant abundance of light, which it should
enjoy at all seasons, and more air, a drier atmosphere, and wintered as
advised. When started again into growth at the commencement of the
year, and the young shoots as they grow trained close to the glass, pro-
vided the plant is not excited with too much heat, but allowed to
develop its shoots under favourable conditions, and a too close moist
atmosphere avoided, — these few particulars attended to, the plant will
not fail to produce its fragrant flowers in great profusion. If required
for exhibition purposes, the plant will stand retarding or bringing on
rapidly, as the case may be. It is advisable, when required for this

1879.] STOVE-CLIMBERS. 351

purpose, not to put them on the desired trellis too early — that is, until
the flowers are well advanced ; they can then be regularly arranged over
the whole trellis.

Dipladenias.

This lovely genera of plants ranks amongst the most beautiful of
stove-climbers, and deserves to be grown largely on the roof of a plant-
stove, where plenty of heat and moisture can be afforded them. Dip-
ladenia Brearleyana makes one of the finest exhibition plants. How-
ever beautiful the older varieties of a few years -ago were, they are cer-
tainly superseded by the newer varieties. D. amcena and amabilis
are beautiful ; while D. insignis is a great acquisition, with its rich
rosy-carmine flowers, which are of a good size, and having a white
tube or throat, renders it an attractive plant for exhibition purposes.
D. regina will undoubtedly, with its light-coloured flowers, prove to
be, from its free-blooming habit, a great acquisition.

We intend to confine our remarks to that beautiful evergreen plant
D. Brearleyana, which we consider far exceeds any other variety, either
as a stove-climber or for exhibition purposes, both in freeness of growth
and for its floriferous character. Cleanliness is a point of great im-
portance in the culture of this plant, as it is very subject to all kinds
of insects which infest plants, especially mealy-bug ; and unless the
plants are free of these, little success can be anticipated. When once
attacked with bug, it in a very short time arrests the growth of the
plant, and the foliage soon turns yellow and falls off.

Watering is another particular point, and this plant is very impatient
of carelessness in this respect ; it cannot bear being kept so wet at the
root as the majority of stove plants. If the waterpot is judiciously
used, and the plant kept clean, combined with light, heat, and moisture,
the cultivator will not fail to be successful with D. Brearleyana, and
have a quantity of large, fine-coloured flowers of great substance. This
magnificent hybrid is a very attractive and striking object when in
flower, from its peculiarity of having flowers of two colours on the plant
at the same time, — opening as it does pink, and then with age the
colour intensifies until it is of the richest crimson. This variety flowers
very freely. It, like several other stove-climbers, requires a large num-
ber of young shoots to be trained under the glass before a great pro-
fusion of flowers can be produced at one time. This is particularly
necessary if required for exhibition purposes. Like the Stephanotis,
it is best trained on string for that purpose, until the flowers are well
advanced. They should then be carefully trained round the trellis they
are intended to be exhibited on, placing the flowers as near equal dis-
tances from each other as possible. Dipladenias cling to the support
upon which they are trained. When trained on string, it can be cut
in short lengths, and easily drawn out, making it more convenient
to take the plant down when it has to undergo the ordeal of clean-

352 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

ing. The young shoots are sure to be injured more or less if allowed
to twist round wires.

Dipladenias do best when allowed to ramble and twine to string at
will. Care should be taken that each shoot, if only a few inches apart,
is supplied with a separate support.

Propagation is best effected by means of cuttings in the early
spring. The young wood, when a few inches in length, will strike
freely if numbers are inserted in a 6-inch pot, or singly in small pots,
and plunged in brisk bottom-heat, and a bell-glass placed over them.
When rooted, the young plants should be potted in small pots ; if
rooted singly in small pots, so much the better. If, on the other hand,
a number are put in one pot, they must be potted as soon as the for-
mation of roots has commenced. Care must be taken of the young
plants after potting ; if they receive a check, they do not start into
growth for a very long time, and in some cases do no good afterwards.
They must be grown on in bottom-heat, and liberal attention bestowed
on them. They will grow rapidly when once fairly started ; and by
the end of the season will make nice young plants, provided they
are rooted early, which is important. The young plants are best
in a temperature during winter of 58° to 60°, according to the external
atmosphere ; and then with increased light and moisture, after the com-
mencement of the year, the young plants will soon start freely into
growth. If the plants grow well the first seaons, they will before
winter be well established in 6-inch pots. After they begin to root
freely, they should be transferred into 8- or 9-inch pots, using a com-
post of two-thirds fibry peat, one-third of fibry loam, with lumps of
charcoal mixed, a dash of small bones, and plenty of coarse white sand
to keep the whole porous.

The wood made the first season should be laid as much horizontally
as possible, so that as many young shoots can be encouraged to lay a
proper foundation for a good quantity of wood the following season.
As the young shoots extend themselves, they will show flower-spikes
from the axils of the leaf, and as they continue growing, will keep
flowering over a lengthened period of time. Should it be deemed neces-
sary to repot the plant a second time in the season, if the 8- or 9-inch
pots are well filled with roots, and the plant is making rapid progress,
the operation can be performed, but not later than the middle of July,
so that the plant will be thoroughly established before the winter sets in.

Another particular point that must not be lost sight of in the success-
ful management of Dipladenias is, they do not like being disturbed at
the roots. In repotting, the crocks only must be carefully removed, and
any loose soil that may exist on the surface of the ball. If the soil re-
commended is of a good fibry nature, and sufficient materials used to
keep it open, the watering carefully attended to, which is absolutely
necessary, the compost will not be in a sour condition for a very long
time.

1879.] FRUIT-CULTURE. 353

Although the Dipladenia cannot be used for all purposes, it is not
only a worthy subject of the exhibition-tent and stove decoration,
associated with Allamandas, Clerodendrons, &c, but it is useful in a
cut state for shallow vases or dishes : mixed with these and Gloxinias,
with a little Fern intermixed, Dipladenias are useful and striking.

Wm. Bardney.

Nonius Green.

FRUIT- CULTURE.

In the July number of ' The Gardener ' there occurs the following
passage by Mr Hinds in connection with this topic : " I am ready to
yield to every grower what I claim for myself — viz., that of knowing
my own wants and circumstances best, and therefore that I have a
right to choose for myself whatever course seems best to adopt ; but
the aspect of affairs is altered if I recommend for general cultivation
what is in fact but a foible of my own." Now there is nothing what-
ever to complain of in this excellent " piece of morality. '; The passage
is worth remembering by us all, and if I make use of it here in a way
that is not particularly acceptable to your correspondent, he has himself
to thank for it. Let your readers turn to Mr Hinds's calendarial writ-
ings on " Strawberries " in the ' Gardeners' Chronicle,' and see for them-
selves how his precept and his practice correspond.

Not to go back more than the last few weeks, he has in one place
sarcastically described those who differ from him in his peculiar
notions as following " the practices of their grandfathers ; " in an-
other place he has referred to his neighbours as pursuers of "the
merest phantoms," which are not " resorted to where high - class
gardening is carried out ; " and again, he has broadly accused his com-
peers generally of ignorance how to grow certain Strawberries that
did not suit " their wants and circumstances,'' — informing them in
the most courteous manner that those who condemn such and such
varieties as do not find favour with him, " do so because they do not
know how to grow them" (!). These are some of the examples of
toleration towards his neighbours that Mr Hinds sets when he has " a
foible of his own " to recommend. In his paper in ' The Gardener/ he
says " Black Prince Strawberry is not worth growing after February."
After that date, however, I can grow plenty of berries of it 5 inches
or more in circumference ; and I have sold it, as I can prove, in April
at from 15s. to 25s. per pound. Were I to apply the same test to Mr
Hinds, therefore, that he is in the habit of applying to his neighbours,
I might very justly say that he condemns Black Prince " because he
does not know how to grow it." Except it be the market-growers,
who grow Sir Charles Napier for its appearance sake only, Mr Hinds
stands alone almost among private gardeners as its champion.

354 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

And now I am going to analyse one or two of Mr Hinds's " foibles "
in Strawberry-culture, which are so much superior, according to his
own account ; and I think I will show before I have done who it is
that follows the practices of their grandfathers, and "pursue phan-
toms," &c. &c. ; and moreover, that Mr Hinds has not apparently
made up his own mind on the subject of which he writes, and which
I imagine to be an essential qualification in those who aspire to teach
others their duties. In ' The Gardener ' some time ago, and in the
' Chronicle ' lately, he has, as usual, been correcting " a fallacy " of his
neighbours'. This " fallacy " consists in supposing, according to Mr
Hinds, that Strawberry plants for forcing can be got up properly in
less than two years. Most, indeed all, Strawberry-growers raise their
plants and force them at the end of the same year and beginning of
the next; but if Mr Hinds wanted plants to force — say in 1881 — he
would begin to propagate stock in 1879. In case I may be credited
with exaggerating, I will give Mr Hinds's own directions. In preparing
plants for forcing he "every year," layers in pots plants which he
does not force that year but plants out in August. If these show a
crop of fruit the season following, he cuts it off and reserves the plants
for 'producing runners for forcing exclusively ', which runners are layered
in turn and forced the succeeding year. Thus he occupies a piece of
ground to no purpose for a whole year, and to accomplish that which
any other Strawberry-forcer accomplishes equally well in one year !
and this is the practice recommended in the ' Gardeners' Chronicle '
by one who accuses his neighbours of being behind the times ! Like
most Strawberry-growers, we also make autumn plantations, but not
every year, nor yet with the special object of getting runners from
them, but for a crop. At the present time our autumn-planted runners
are producing an enormous crop — nearly 200 berries to each stool.
These, if we followed Mr Hinds's advice, we should destroy, and keep
the plants for next year's forcing-plants — 1880! If Mr Hinds had
anything to show in support of the practice he advocates, it would be
different, but he has not. We have seen the best forced fruit he was
able to produce at the most favourable season of the year, both pot-
plants and gathered fruit, and while we quite willingly admit it was
good, still it was no better than that of his neighbours, and certainly
not so fine as many examples we have seen by other growers who pro-
pagated their plants in a much speedier manner. But the queer thing
about Mr Hinds's practice is, as he tells us, that his object is to
procure runners earlier than he would otherwise do. "Earliness in
procuring the runners is an object always to be aimed at." Old
forced plants planted out, he says, do not produce runners early enough
— not so early as his autumn-planted runners, which must at that rate
put out runners very easy indeed ; but after all this trouble in getting
runners so early in the season, what does he do with them when he
has them 1 Why, keeps them till the end of July, when most people

1879.] FRUIT-CULTURE. 355

have their stock potted and growing. His objections to potting even
his earliest plants before the middle or end of July are that the plants
get too much pot-bound ! In all our experience we never heard of a
gardener complaining on this head. To have the roots in a matted
condition that one could almost play at football with them, we thought,
was the aim of every one who understood their culture — but we live
and learn, or rather unlearn !

As regards Vine-leaves and their size in relation to fruitfulness, Mr
Hinds is just as unfortunate as he is about Strawberries. He "can
prove," he states, " that the roots are in the worst possible condition (!),
and the Grapes far from being what would be expected," when they
produce fine leaves ; but his statement simply proves that he is without
experience as to all the conditions under which large and fine foliage
may be produced for many years in conjunction with unfailing and
heavy crops of fruit of the first quality. Our own motto is, " Get good
foliage — the larger the better if matured — and the fruit will take care
of itself/' and that motto I have never had occasion to alter, as I
could show your correspondent at the present moment, and could
have done for years back; but I can furnish him with evidence that
he will perhaps be more disposed to credit.

The first lesson I received on this head was at Dalkeith about 1856
or '57. At that period there was a house of pot- Vines there bearing
one of the finest crops of Grapes I ever saw. This house is alluded to
in Mr Thomson's book on the Vine. The plants were the admira-
tion of all who saw them, and the leaves were as remarkable as the
fruit — some of them, if I remember correctly, measuring 14 inches or
more in diameter, and samples, I think, were sent by Mr Thomson to
Dr Lindley, then editor of the ' Gardeners' Chronicle.' The next
example was at Floors Castle, during the late Mr Rose's time. I
did not see them myself, but I remember well Mr Thomson saying
of them that a finer crop or finer berries in all respects he never saw,
and that the Vine-canes and the foliage were equally remarkable for
their size and vigour. In either of these cases will Mr Hinds venture
to say that the Vines were in the u worst possible condition " 1 and will
he tell us why, if a pot-Vine may have large leaves with advantage,
a planted-out Vine may not 1 There are conditions in which big leaves
may not indicate good crops, as Mr Hinds's experience seems to confirm ;
but when leaves and wood are well ripened, as they can be, the stronger
they are the better, and all practice and theory corroborate this view :
and I ask Mr Hinds to point to one single example, if he can, of a
fine crop of large bunches, well finished, that were not accompanied by
good foliage of proportionally large size. All the large-bunching vari-
eties of the Vine like the Barbarossa and Syrian, or large-berried like
the Gros Colman, Golden Champion, and Duke, produce extra large
leaves, as is well known ; and the first sign of a good crop on any
variety, other things being right, is large leaves and good wood. I

356 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

may just state, in conclusion, that the reason I have taken notice of
Mr Hinds's paper is, that though he does not name me, I was a princi-
pal party in the "discussion in a contemporary " to which he alludes,
and which it would appear induced him to pen his " Remarks on Fruit-
culture." J. S., W.

P.S. — The following are the dimensions of Vine-leaves here on differ-
ent varieties : Hamburgs, 14 and 15 in. ; Golden Champion (mon-
strous berries), 14 in. ; Duke, 13 in. ; Golden Queen, 14 in. ; Venn's
Muscat, 13 in. ; Gros Colman, 14 in. All the Vines, Hamburgs ex-
cepted, are growing in an inside border exclusively, and in an impene-
trable bottom ; and all are carrying heavy crops without a bad berry
in the lot, and the Hamburgs have been doing so for twelve years
constantly. Golden Queen, Venn's Muscat, Gros Colman, and the
Hamburgs are carrying a crop, as near as I can estimate, probably very
little, if any, under 30 lb. to the 19-feet rod, and many bunches were
cut off. Royal Muscadine, with fine leaves of its kind, is bearing at a
not much less rate ; and the bunches, not yet finished swelling, measure
9 inches in length and 8 inches across the shoulders. All the Vines
are planted about 22 inches apart. Black Hamburgs nearly ripe and
colouring quite black; berries generally about 1 inch in diameter.
Having given the size of the leaves, I think it necessary to furnish
these particulars as well. The leaves, I should also say, are the largest
on the Vines, and are from the laterals and main rods both. The pot-
Vines at Floors bore 14 bunches each ; and at Dalkeith the plants
mentioned occupied a pit 30 feet long by about 7 feet wide, and bore
200 bunches.— (See Book on the Vine.) J. S., W.

THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN.

TIIE CABBAGE FAMILY.

Next to the Potato in universal estimation stands the Cabbage,
and there is good reason why this should be so. Good varieties pro-
perly grown furnish delicate, wholesome, nutritious dishes every day
in the year. Professor Johnston says that the Cabbage is so rich in
flesh-forming matters that, beat up with Potatoes — which are deficient
in flesh-formers — it makes a dish equal to oatmeal-porridge.

To keep up a succession of Cabbages over as great a portion of the
year as possible, at least three or four sowings must be made. For
the very earliest, a sowing must be made from the 20th to the
end of July, according to the season and locality. In northern dis-
tricts the first date is the proper one ; and in the sunny south, even
the beginning of August is soon enough. The plants from this sow-
ing require to be transplanted to their final quarters in September, or
sooner if they are fit. A sheltered sunny spot should be chosen.

1879.] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 357

The second sowing should be made from the Gth to the 20th of August.
The plants from this sowing are not to be finally transplanted until
the following spring; but it is a good plan to prick them in a shel-
tered spot on not too rich soil, as we have often noticed that pricked-
out plants — i.e. f transplanted closely together — stand severe winters
better than plants that are left in the seed-bed. One reason for this
is, that the stems are less exposed than when not transplanted, and
the operation causes a little check, which induces a harder growth.
The third lot should be sown in March, and the fourth in May.
Bath these lots had better be pricked in soil in which some rotten
manure has been mixed, so as to produce strong plants with plenty
of fibry roots. Such plants, when lifced with a trowel and planted
in showery weather with a ball of earth, give better results than when
the plants are allowed to grow crowded in seed-beds, and afterwards
pulled out and stuck in with a dibble. The plan of raising plants to
secure a succession which we have recommended applies to the tender
early varieties, of which Little Pixie may be taken as a type. "We
are aware that a succession of Cabbages is kept up in amateurs' gar-
dens by growing early, late, and medium kinds ; but we advise those
who wish fine Cabbages for the table to grow no late drumhead
varieties at all. They are very inferior and very coarse, and occupy
so much space that the ground on which they are grown is next to
wasted, as they are seldom used ; and they are, moreover, a very ex-
haustive crop to the soil. By the plan we have recommended, a
supply of Cabbages can be had from the end of April up till mid-
winter of the finest kinds. A plan, not so often followed as it might
be with profit, and which secures good dishes all through ordinary
winters, is to pick the leaves off the earliest batches as they are cut,
and to give a good mulching of rotten manure and plenty of water.
This causes the old stumps to grow again and to produce a crop of small
Cabbages, which are often preferred to the ordinary heads. "We may
add that all the Cabbage tribe requires liberal treatment in the way
of manuring and deep digging ; and in dry seasons, or on thin soils,
mulchings of manure and soakings of liquid-manure.

Savoys take the place in winter which Cabbages occupy in summer,
and are preferred by some. Two sowings of them are enough — one in
August along with the Cabbages sown then, and another along with
the first batch of spring-sown Cabbages. The autumn sowing re-
quires transplanting in spring, and the spring sowing in showery
weather, as soon as the plants are strong enough. The other remarks
on the cultivation of the Cabbage apply in this case also.

Brussels Sprouts. — To have these as good as possible, they should
be sown in a frame, or under a hand-light, in February, to get the

358 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

plants as forward as possible, so as to give them the full benefit of
the whole season to grow. This advice may be disregarded in good
climates, but in cold northern localities it is of very great importance.
When no other means exist for raising plants, they must just be sown
under the most favourable conditions possible, using rich soil ; and
this applies to the raising of all the plants of this class in early spring —
but by no means to those sown in autumn, as it is apt to induce a
growth too tender to stand the severities of winter. As we advised
when speaking of Cabbages, so we advise in this case — prick out the
plants 3 inches apart in rich roil, and lift and transplant with the
trowel. It is more than worth all the trouble.

Curly Greens may be treated as recommended for Savoys, or, in-
deed, may be sown late enough to be ready in time to fill ground
which is cleared of early crops of Spinach, Turnips, Potatoes, &c.
The tops can be used in winter and early spring, and the stems will
afterwards furnish a spring supply of tender sprouts.

Caul) flower for a first lot should be sown from the 10th to the
20th of August, and afterwards protected with hand-lights, or in
frames, in boxes, or otherwise, as necessity may suggest, during win-
ter. Give them air on all favourable occasions, and give the extra
protection which a mat affords during frosty weather. Plant these
out in rich soil when the weather has become spring-like in March
or April, and give them a little protection by means of inverted
flower-pots, boxes, or even evergreen twigs, on frosty nights. Another
sowing may be made under glass about the beginning of March, and
afterwards nursed on in a frame or under a hand-light to succeed the
autumn-sown ones, and another towards the end of March out of
doors, and a third about the 1st of May. A small pinch of seed each
time will suffice. All the Cabbage kind require rich soil and liberal
treatment to do them justice, but none more so than the Cauliflower.

Broccoli comes in when other vegetables are scarce, and is much
appreciated on that account. Small growers do not need more than
one sowing, and the best time to sow is about the end of March or
beginning of April. They may be treated much in the same way as
the others — only, do not manure the ground heavily, as too rich soil
causes too luxuriant a growth, which is often damaged during winter.
When a gross growth does ensue, it is a good plan to lift the plants
and heel them over with their heads to the north. This operation is
done by taking out a trench on the north side of the rows, and lifting
the plants carefully and laying them in it, covering the stems up to the
base of the fresh leaves ; then another trench and another row of Broc-
coli, until the plot is completed. Those which show head during
severe weather should be lifted and put where they can be protected,

1879.] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 359

or protection may be afforded where they stand. The sprouting
virieties are very prolific, and the most profitable kind to grow,
but the Cauliflower kinds are much more delicate in flavour.

So far we have treated of the times and ways of sowing and plant-
ing. As they are very similar in their wants, we will sum up their
general cultivation in a few words. We repeat that the whole family
requires liberal treatment, except perhaps Broccoli, in the matter of
digging deep and manuring well. The usual way in which the
ground is prepared by amateurs is a bad one. The ground is left
untouched during winter and autumn, while the remains of the pre-
vious crop are left to nourish the vermin peculiar to each different kind.
The soil gets solid and impervious to rain, and the winter's rains flood
over the surface and wash the essence of the plant's food right away.
The smooth surface is not operated on beneficially to any extent by
the frost of winter or the drying winds of early spring. But when the
crops require putting in, the digging and manuring are commenced —
the manure used generally being too fresh to afford much nourishment
— and a laborious job the work is ; and labour with a will or not, the
whole cultivated mass is just a mass of little or large knots, which affords
the very worst tilth imaginable for thrusting in fibi eless Cabbage plants,
— and the loose coherence of these knots causes the sod to assume the
conditions of brick-kiln rubbish, and is nearly as ill suited for healthy
growth. The ground should be turned over in winter, or even in au-
tumn, and thrown up as roughly as possible to the action of the weather,
and a good dressing of manure dug in at the same time. Should the
ground be in good condition one dressing will be enough ; but in the
case of very poor or newly-taken-in land, a dressing of well-decayed
manure spread over the surface when it is hard frozen, and forked
into the surface-soil in spring when the ground is dry enough to
admit of the process, will be repaid with interest. But whether the
ground is dressed with manure or not, the forking should take place
all the same, breaking every lump. In districts where the rainfall is
excessive, or the soil a tenacious clay, this treatment requires some
modification. AVhen both conditions have to be contended against,
it is best not to dig until February, and that as roughly as possible ;
and in this case allow the lumps to become quite dry and then moist
again before forking them over, when they will crumble down like
meal. It is a good plan in all such soils to apply the manure at f ork-
ing-time in a thoroughly decomposed state. A little rich soil placed
at the roots of each is of great service in promoting a start, which is
often half the battle.

The best way of planting is by means of a trowel, in drills 3 or 4
inches deep, from 2 to 2J feet apart, according to the soil and the

360 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

plants. Thus for Little Pixie Cabbage or Dwarf Ulm Savoy, 2 ft.
by 1 ft. 6 in. is ample on ordinary soil ; while on good soil, with
strong plants put out early in May, 2 J ft. by 1 ft. 8 in. is not too
much for such things as Brussels Sprouts. 2 ft. by 1 ft. G in. may
be taken as an average width likely to suit the others on ordinary
soils, but observation will teach each individual what is most proper
in his own case.

As soon as the plants are large cno lgh the soil between the rows
should be carefully dug over with a fork, and the plants steadied by
having the earth drawn to the stems with a hoe, as is usually done
with potatoes. On very light soils in dry seasons, a mulching of rot-
ten manure between the rows will prove of the greatest benefit, by
preventing the escape of the natural moisture in the soil. Soakings
of sewage or other liquid manure will also prove beneficial.

Gardener.

MIGNONETTE-CULTURE.

As I have been very successful in growing this favourite plant, a few
remarks as to my mode of culture may not be out of place in the
pages of ' The Gardener,' to such of your amateur and lady readers as
may cultivate this sweet-scented flower. The only variety I have
grown this season is Miles' Hybrid Spiral, which is quite an acqui-
sition for pot-culture, the spikes being much larger and the flowers
more fragrant than any other variety I have hitherto cultivated in
pots. To have a succession of blooms, the seeds should be sown at
intervals of a month or six weeks, from April to September. Prepare
a few 3-inch pots by cleaning and draining them well : fill them
with a compost of light loam, leaf-mould, and sand in a fine state,
and sow a few seeds in the centre of each, not all in a heap, but
scattered thinly over an inch or two of the surface, and cover lightly
with some of the finest of the soil, and place them in a warm pit or
house where they can enjoy a temperature ranging from 50° in the
night to 60° in the day, after which water with a fine-rosed watering-
pan, and cover them with a circular piece of glass, which helps to
retain the moisture and keeps up a more equable temperature. As
soon as the young plants appear above the soil, tilt the glass at one
side by inserting a tally or small piece of wood between the rim of
the pot and the glass, and gradually inure the plants to the genial atmo-
sphere of the pit or house. As soon as it can be distinguished which
are the strongest plants, remove all the others, and let the strong
ones take full possession of the pots. They will soon gain size and

1879.] MIGNONETTE-CULTURE. 361

strength, and require a shift into larger pots, using stronger soil, such
as good turfy loam, leaf-mould, and thoroughly-decomposed cow-dung,
with a dash of sand, and charcoal broken up into small bits, to keep
the soil free and open. Pot rather firmly, and shade for a few days
until the roots take to the fresh soil, after which they will grow away
vigorously, and must be carefully attended to as regards watering and
airing, so that they receive no check. The shoots will require to
be supported with small neat stakes, and pinched to secure a dwarf
branching habit to those which are to be grown as pyramids. We
always retain some of the strongest for umbrella-shaped trellises,
which are very suitable for standing on the corners of the stages in
the greenhouse. This mode of training is easily accomplished by
keeping the leading shoot tied to a stake, and rubbing off all lateral
growths as they appear from time to time, till it reaches the height
of the wire. Then pinch out the point to form the "head of the
tree," and tie down the branches to the wire as they grow, bringing
them down gently, as they are apt to break off at the heel. As the
plants advance in growth they will require another shift into 9 or 10
inch pots, which is large enough to flower them in; and if the flowers
are pinched off as they appear for a time, this will generally produce
enough breaks to fill the whole trellis. "We prefer a few strong
branches thinly distributed over the trellis-work to a thick mass of
weaker ones, as the vigorous shoots produce larger and better spikes
of bloom. Plants having the greatest tendency to branch should be
trained as pyramids, and staked and tied out as they advance in
growth, till they are required for cutting from or for decorative pur-
poses. In cutting it is well to take the oldest spikes first, as they
are apt to form seeds, which greatly reduces the vigour of the plants ;
and also, to put fresh vigour in them, water occasionally with weak
liquid-manure water made from cow-dung and soot, and make it a
point never to let them become too dry.

After the earliest-sown plants are well advanced they can be care-
fully hardened off, and grown in a cool sheltered place out of doors,
and taken in again, about the middle or end of September, to a warm
pit or greenhouse, where they will flower for a long time, and will
repay the care and attention that have been given them throughout
the summer. In cold exposed situations, where the weather is very
changeable, it is better to keep them in a cool frame all summer, and
shade them when the sun is very strong ; or place the frame in a
shady position, and ply the syringe amongst them in the afternoon
in fine dry weather, to keep up a moist growing atmosphere.

DUNDONIAN.

362 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

HARDY FRUITS- AUGUST.

The season has now arrived when special preparation must be made
to do what is necessary towards securing fruit for next year. Every
tree should be examined, to see that the wood is hard, short jointed,
and free from dead portions. If any are in bad health, and others
too gross, and not too large to be lifted, mark them with a piece of
twine, so that they can be easily recognised in October, when they may
be lifted and replanted in healthy loam. Laterals must be stopped on
vigorous trees ; many of the crossing and unnecessary growths may be
cut well back — some taken out altogether, leaving always those which
are in the proper positions to aid in formation of handsome trees.
Netting of fruits must have attention, especially where fruits are to
be kept late. Gooseberries to hang for giving supplies during Sep-
tember and October may be easily saved by the use of hexagon net-
ting ; on walls the same may be used to keep wasps off : though they
seem scarce hitherto, they may yet come out in great force. Lumps of
sugar stuck in the trees may keep them off for a time, as they will eat
away at the sugar while it lasts and leave the fruit. In large gardens
such a practice would entail a heavy cost for fruit saved by lump-
sugar ; bottles half filled with beer and treacle or sugar are good traps.
Treacle -water and vinegar do well also. Our system with Peaches,
Apricots, Nectarines, and Pears is to pull them from the trees when
they part from the stalk with little difficulty ; they are then laid in
boxes or baskets in which is placed soft paper-shavings or wadding ;
clean paper is laid over, on which the fruit rests, and they are then
taken to a dry airy fruit-room, or to a vinery or peach-house at rest.
A better succession is thus kept up. The fruit (if not improved in
flavour) certainly does not deteriorate ; handling by "interested" visi-
tors is avoided, and vermin cannot destroy it. Currants (red and white)
keep late when well shaded with hexagon netting, allowing plenty of
air to pass through the bushes. Glazed cloth placed above the bushes
to throw off rain is serviceable.

Where proper manipulation is carried forward during the growing
season, much may be done to reduce labour, relieve workmen from
perishing cold during winter, and have much handsomer and better
fruit-bearing trees. Apricots should have no shoots tied in except
what are really wanted ; and they ought to stand well clear of each
other. Gross trees may have the roots lifted at one side as soon as
the fruit is gathered. Any rank gross roots going straight down ought
to be gradually bent outwards ; but if they are not pliable, they had
better be cut off clean with a knife (not by a spade). Any broken
portions of roots should be cut clean off; and when filling in to the
roots is being performed, let the rammer be freely used as the soil is
returned. A mixture of lime-rubbish, chalk, and smashed bricks is of
great service to the trees. Lay the roots flat over this, if possible ; but

1879] THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 363

little twisting and bending ought to be done, as tins causes suckers to
form and ruin the trees. Lay the fibres in the fresh soil over the hard
porous bottom, with the best garden soil over the surface, which may
be mulched with rotten manure, or longer and fresher mulching, before
winter sets in. The piecemeal system is much safer with trees than
lifting entirely during the period when they are at rest. We prefer
the system of having all mutilations healed over before fall of leaf, so
that they may not suffer during the winter. If Apricots suffer from
canker, they should be lifted entirely. When their roots are active
among cold wet clay, or soil extra rich, they cannot ripen their wood ;
and the consequence is, after they have passed the winter with appa-
rently little harm, they begin to die off piecemeal during spring and
summer. The above remarks apply to Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, and
Cherries. They may all be pruned on the same principle, by retaining
best placed wood of current year's growth, and leaving all natural spurs
close to the walls. The preparation of the tree has much more to do
with cropping than the weather. Some trees bear well most seasons ;
others scarcely ever bear at all, no matter what the season is. Leave
the whole of the roots a bunch of fibres in healthy well-drained soil,
which will give short hard wood and natural spurs. The roots are the
primary matter with every sort of plant, especially those which have
to bear fruit. Pears ought to be thin and well ripened in their wood
by this time. Those on walls ought to be stopped at several times, to
avoid checking them. Where the shoots are strongest, they should be
pinched first, going over the whole at intervals of ten or twelve days.
Apples, Pears, and Plums, as standards, should be thinned skilfully,
but not too severely, so that the buds wanted for next year should be
forced to break into growth. Figs ought to be kept stopped and the
fruit exposed to sun and air. Trench and manure land for Straw-
berries ; they do well planted now ; give plenty of room, say at least
2^ feet between the rows. Winter Onions or Lettuce may be grown
between them. Trim, clean, and mulch older plantations. Attend to
battling against insects, as formerly advised. Orchard- trees, when
cleared of their crops, must be thoroughly syringed, to cleanse them
from insects, dust, and cobwebs. Keep them cool and airy, and water
carefully at their roots. M. T.

THE FLOWER-GARDEN".
With August returns the season for propagating the stock of bedding-
plants for next year's requirements, but this season it will be a simple
impossibility to obtain cuttings from Geraniums so early without
destroying all hope of a display of these for the season ; while those of
us who must leave the beds intact until frost cuts the occupants down,
have no means of saving the old plants to make up to some extent
for the want of young plants from cuttings. There will also be the

364 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

quality of the cuttings to be taken into consideration in proceeding
with their propagation, for unless the weather changes to a great ex-
tent these will be of the most watery nature, and difficult to manage
under ordinary treatment. 1 would advise a particularly light open
soil to be used in the boxes — at least a layer on top of such — and the
cutting-boxes placed under the protection of lights, and shaded at first
from severe sun. A week of such treatment ought to get the cuttings
into a safe condition, when, if the weather be fine, shading and lights
may be dispensed with, and the cuttings struck in the open. Should
wet weather continue and signs of damping at the neck be noticed,
the whole batch ought to be placed in a vinery or other structure
where they can be safe and are certain to strike. I have been thus
particular in advising the above treatment, because a mistake so late in
the season must result in a great deficiency in next year's supply. In
the case of Verbenas, Iresines, and plants of a like nature, particularly
iu the north, it will be advisable to use a little heat, just a very little
though, to get them safely rooted. Directly roots are produced, cold
treatment must be given them to keep the plants in a dwarf and
sturdy condition for passing the dangerous winter months. Those
who strike them in July will have less bother than those of us who
propagate later. Lobelias I find most certain, kept growing in pots
through the summer ; and as these are very useful for conservatory
decoration in the summer and autumn months, and as a large number
of cuttings is produced from one plant, a small number of pots is
sufficient of these. Violas, Pansies, Pentstemons, and plants of a hke
nature which are kept over the winter in cold frames, do not require
propagating till September. Carnations and Picotees layered in July
should be potted up before many roots are made, and the plants in-
duced to fill the pots with roots before winter sets in. Calling for
great attention, from now onwards, is the keeping of beds and lawns
in a state of great cleanliness. No ribbon-border looks well un-
less the different lines are kept perfectly distinct one from the other ;
but when these are kept well defined, no mode of summer planting is
more attractive than this. The lines ought to be picked over about
once every ten days ; plants like Perilla to be regularly pinched in,
aud Cerastium tomentosum and Koniga variegata to be clipped so as
to be level with the grass at the edges. Where Festuca glauca
and the tall-growing form of Dactylis glomerata variegata grow too
tall for edgings, it will be necessary to go over the lines of these
and pull the tallest of the blades entirely out ; both are capital bed-
ders. Lines of Violas, and those in beds either by themselves or
mixed with other plants, will now require to have all the withered
blooms and seed-capsules picked off, when they will flower persist-

1879.] THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 3G5

ently until the bedding-plants are over. Carpet-bedding will prove
pretty much a failure this season. Even in the south up to the middle
of July no growth had been made on Altemantheras and Coleus; on
cold bottoms there have many of them dwindled away, requiring to
be replaced if a satisfactory display is to be secured. Mostly for
want of time, it will be impossible to do this. Growers of Mentha
gibraltarica, instead of cutting over the plants, will find it do better
to pull out pieces entirely, pressing the remainder level. Pyrethrum,
Iresine Lindenii, Coleus Verschaffeltii, and plants of a like nature,
require to be pinched over at least once every ten days?, allowing just
the right space for the different lines, &c, and nothing more. Carpet-
bedding, in any or all of its forms, owes its success as a system quite
as much to high keeping as to beauty of plants or design : where it
is impossible to keep the beds in order, no carpeting should be at-
tempted. Autumn-flowering plants, such as Dahlias and Asters, will
now be approaching to some state of beauty. Although not gen-
erally practised, the Dahlias do best kept thinned slightly out, and
all old blooms as they become passee taken off. Asters require tying
to stakes, and when too thickly planted for full development of the
plants, a sufficient number pulled up to give more room. All flowers
past their best require immediate removal from the plants. When
well grown, Asters are grand autumn-blooming plants. Lines of
dwarf Helichrysums are very pretty if kept in good condition by
keeping all plants of a height. Phloxes, Delphiniums, double Pyre-
thrums, &c, if cut over directly the early bloom is past, as a rule
bloom again the same season, though it is doubtful if they will do so
this year. Antirrhinums raised from seed this past spring will now
be getting to a flowering size. These are a beautiful class of plants
as improved, as they now are. In order to keep the strain as fine as
possible, the worst varieties ought to be destroyed as soon as they are
seen to be worthless, and the best only allowed to carry seed. Sow-
ings of these, of the beautiful varieties of Campanula calycanthema, of
Sweet- Williams, Pansies, and other things requiring autumn sowing,
should be made during this month. The ground should be well en-
riched, but made firm in order to have the young plants stubbly and
hardy. Flower-gardens in box should have the edgings cut now,
but not hard in. Shrubs, if not already looked over, require looking
to, — at least cutting back the strongest growths, if close pruning is
objected to. It is especially necessary at this season not to neglect
grass-cutting amongst beds. No matter how effectively the flowers
may be arranged and managed, unless the setting of grass is kept in
like condition the entire good effect will be marred. The same re-
mark applies to walk-edgings and the walks themselves. R. P. B.

366 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

About this period last year we referred to the comments made frequently by
the press on the unfavourable character of the season. It was then thought
things could hardly be worse ; but if 1S77 was unusually late and cold, 1879
has, up to this date — the middle of July — proved even more so. A winter of
unparalleled length and severity, extending quite through the spring, has been
followed by an equally unfavourable summer. In many districts crops are
reckoned to be quite six weeks late, or more ; and even in the south fears are
beginning to be entertained that there will be no harvest. As the Archbishop
of Canterbury observed recently, the "inclement weather we have had lately
amounts to a national calamity. It is like war or pestilence, or any other de-
vastating agency, and so terrible in its consequences that people are impelled
to appeal direct to all merciful Providence for speedy deliverance and succour."
It is stated that the rain one day last week damaged the hay crops to the ex-
tent of five hundred thousand pounds. Towards the end of June snow fell in
some parts of the midlands ; and on the first of July, as the local papers re-
corded at the time, "a large number of lambs were literally starved to death "
on the low-lying lands near Edde, in Derbyshire ; and in other districts, on the
hills, lambs were frozen to death. And records of weather hardly less severe
come from many other parts of the kingdom. At one time, before the passing
of the Corn Laws, such a season as the present would have produced a famine
in the land, especially in depressed times like the present; but as it is, the bad
harvest prospects have hardly affected the price of food. Foreign importations
have lately been enormous, and best flour does not exceed two shillings per
stone. The harvests in Germany are reported to be almost unprecedentedly
excellent, and in America the crops are up to the average, and in some instances
they exceed it. The " cold wave " seems to embrace an area of which England,
France, and Italy occupy the centre, while other countries lying to the right
and left of the current have only felt its eddy. A friend of ours lately returned
from B,ome informs us that the season there was causing the greatest uneasiness ;
the rains had not been so frequent and heavy since 1819. Another correspon-
dent, writing from Paris on the 4th of July, sa\s, "The weather is just the
same here as in England — wet and miserable." The habitues of Rotten Row,
in London, are loud in their lamentations. One paper says, " A.W. fetes or enjoy-
ments seem to be put off indefinitely on account of the weather, and we never
knew so many people leaving London in search of a better climate. Can there
be anything amiss with the great oceanic currents that influence our climate ?
It has been noticed that in America the Atlantic seaboard has felt the cold
most, and that in this country the winds have been unusually cold from what-
ever quarter they blew.

Is Asparagus spoiled by the process of blanching ? This question has
been discussed more than once in 'The Garden,' where a correspondent
has lately answered the same in the negative. The prevailing notion among
English gardeners, however, certainly tends the other way : whether they
are right or wrong, we offer no opinion. English Asparagus is usually cut
about 6 or 7 inches long ; of that length two or three inches of the top
only is tender and well flavoured in a raw state. The top is brittle, and
snaps like a tender French Bean, but the bottom part is tough and stringy,
and is usually cut off in cooking. This is undoubtedly a regrettable waste,
which, your contemporary says, need not occur if the heads are properly
cooked. Asparagus-roots, when forced in this country, either in the beds or

i879-] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 3G7

the forcing home, are always covered with about 6 inches of light soil in order
to blanch the heads partly, which are cut when they have pushed about two
inches or more above the surface, and become slightly green on the top. In
cutting, the operator cuts close to the crown, or nearly so, and of course the
greater portion of the stem is perfectly blanched and white. In this condition
it is sent to the cook, who cooks it as he knows how. This is the practice in
private gardens, as described by the most competent authorities on the subject.
The thickness of the heads, of course, depends upon the strength and age of
the roots, but the produce is always the same in appearance and flavour.
Plenty of the tine French Asparagus does not differ from the English-grown
samples, except that it is blanched throughout, or nearly so, and is thicker. In
a raw state the tops of the French Asparagus are also the most tender portion,
while the bottoms are comparatively tough. Now, if these can be cooked so
as to be eatable, Euglish Asparagus can certainly be cooked in the same way,
allowing for the difference in the thickness of the stalks. The correspondent
of the 'Garden ' thus describes how French Asparagus is cooked : " The cookery
which suffices for common small green Asparagus will not do for these large
and fine specimens. They require to be boiled, and are boiled by all cooks
who know how to treat Asparagus, standing erect in the water with the tops
just out of it, all the stems being cut exactly the same length. The stems are
then boiled till tender, and in this process the tops, exposed for about 1 inch
of their length, are also cooked tender."

Mr D. T. Fish, within a brief period, has published three voluminous treatises
on horticultural subjects, and now "The Peach and Nectarine" by the same
author has lately been issued from the press (" The Bazaar Office, Strand"). The
volume consists of close upon three hundred pages of small type. The culture
of the Peach is a subject which can be, and which has always been, treated at
considerable less length than the Pine or the Vine, for the simple reason that
there is not so much to be said about it ; but Mr Fish does not seem to be of
this opinion, and he has produced a book on the Peach and Nectarine which
contains, we should say, at least twelve times as much matter as Thomson's
book on the Pine-Apple — about six times as lengthy as that work and W.
Thomson's ' Culture of the Vine ' put together. If to these two books you
were to add all that has been said on the Peach in llobinson's ' Parks and
Gardens of Paris ' and ' Thomson's Gardener's Assistant,' you would have about
an equal quantity of matter to that produced by Mr Fish on the Peach alone.
Mr Fish's list of vermin and diseases that afflict the Peach amount to the moder-
ate number of thirty-five, and they are disposed of in a matter of fifteen
columns. This list includes dogs, fowls, birds, rats, mice, buttei flies, snails,
slugs, squirrels, hornets, jaundice, and gout. The two first are certainly an
addition to the list, and we have doubts about some of the others. As for
" dogs," we are sure it suggests rabies. A vitiated appetite is one of the first
and surest signs of hydrophobia ; and when a dog forgets its carnivorous in-
stincts, and consumes indiscriminately "Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Plums,
Grapes, Pears, and Gooseberries," it wants to be taken care of, without doubt.
Mr Fish has known " at least four pet dogs that ate fruit greedily ; " and his
"present house mongrel" appears to have an exceptionally depraved ap-
petite in this respect, for it devours all the above fruits, and is a thief as well.
For these reasons dogs have been included in the list of enemies of the Peach.
From this imperfect notice we hope the reader will be able to form soine idea
of Mr Fish's labours — for the rest we must refer him to the book itself.
If he can find time to peruse its contents, he will find, of course, much good

368 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

advice regarding the culture of Peaches and Nectarines out-doors or under
glass.

It was asserted some time ago that the introduction of St Michael's Pine-
Apples would not affect the sale of home-grown fruit except during the winter
aud spring months. This hope, however, seems likely to be dispelled. Mr
A. Garcia, of Covent Garden, writing to the 'Gardeners' Chronicle' in July,
says, " I have just received from the Island of Madeira a consignment of fifty
Pines, which are larger and much superior in quality to any that we have
received from St Michael's. They average in weight from 6 lb. to 9 lb., and
rank amongst the fiuest examples that we have had in this market. They
have come in very conveniently, too, just after the St Michael's are done."
If their fruit are superior to the general run of St Michael's, which are, many of
them, quite equal in size and quality to the best Euglish-grown samples, they
must be very superior indeed. Madeira being considerably nearer our shores,
it may, however, be expected that the Pines will be imported from there in a
riper state than those from the Azores; and it is probably in this respect that
they are superior.

A correspondent (a learned one) of a contemporary has made a rather
extraordinary discovery relating to the Apricot disease. The branches, he
tells us, die through " a temporary paralysis of proper action between root and
branch." No doubt ! When death occurs in any aspect there is generally
something amiss with the "proper action." The juryman who ventured the
opinion that the deceased " died for want of breath," was equally shrewd in
his surmise. It is also observable that the branches are killed through a
temporary fit of paralysis, which is another extraordinary circumstance.
Doctors of human patients distinguish between "fatal" and "temporary"
attacks, but according to this discursive correspondent of your contemporary,
Apricots die of a disease that is not fatal. Understandest thou what thou
writest ? is a question which might be often and with advantage put to some
writers.

Mr Wills is " neither to haud nor to bin'." The Committee of the Royal
Horticultural Society had decided that it was inexpedient to hold an Inter-
national Exhibition in 1880, owing to the depressed state of trade and other
reasons ; but Mr Wills decided otherwise, and tried to drive the Committee
into his way of thinking and acting also. In this, as might have been foreseen,
he failed, and he is wrathful, while the public laugh provokingly. Mr Wills
had a motive for getting up a great international exhibition in which himself,
His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, the Lord Mayor, and a number
of other dignitaries might probably have shone as principal luminaries, and
his motive was patriotism — a burning devotion to his country and to horticul-
ture. Seriously, people do not as a rule believe in patriotism that expends
itself in fits and bursts, more especially when a distinct element of self-
interest appears to be involved, or which quarrels and sulks when it is
thwarted. In horticulture, as an industry worthy of fostering in its lowest
and highest spheres, there are plenty of opportunities for enthusiasts who are
anxious to do something in its behalf besides fitting up a great exhibition, the
influence of which would at the best be doubtful except in so far as it be a
means for tradesmen to advertise their goods. Reader.

i379-] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 369

CUCUMBER SIR GARNET WOLSELEY.
Me James Hamilton of Carlisle has long been celebrated for Cucum-
ber growing, but more particularly for carefully hybridising and
raising line varieties. He is this year growing very extensively a
variety which is the result of a cross from Deans' Prolific fertilised
with the Duke of Connaught. It is the most handsome Cucumber
we have ever seen, and is of excellent flavour. It grows to an
average length of 18 inches, is entirely destitute of shank or shoulder,
is smooth and even in its growth. As a rule, it produces three fruits
to every joint, which swell rapidly to maturity in succession. Taken
as a whole, we consider this the best Cucumber we have ever met
with, and predict that it must become a great favourite of Cucumber
growers.

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

In reference to " C. M.'s " last paper on the above subject, I have to re-
mark in the first place that if it had not been for the two last sentences
in it, I would not have taken any notice of the others. The sentences
referred to imply that his object in continuing the discussion is to
elicit truth. Now, when writing the paper that has led to the present
discussion on heating by hot water, my object was to put before the
readers of ' The Gardener,' in as plain and short a manner as I possibly
could, what I knew to be the truth on the subject with which I was
dealing. " C. M.," however, thought right to dispute my conclusions,
and not in a style that would lead one to suppose his object was to
bring out the truth of the matter, but in a way calculated to induce
those who have not given much thought to this particular subject to
suppose that my statements were wrong, and that he knew them to
be so.

When reading " C. M.'s " paper in the April issue of ' The Gardener,'
in opposition to mine in that of February, it struck me that he had not
given the subject with which he was dealing much thought, and his
last paper strengthens that belief. If " C. M." had got any great
length in his studies on heating by hot water, he would know, and
therefore believe, that opposing currents of hotter and colder water
take place, without equalising, in the flow-pipes when they are laid on
a continuous rise from the top of the boiler to their furthest points of
extension in the compartments to be heated. I note that in his last
paper he says, " mixing and equalising to a certain extent at the com-
mencement of circulation ; " and this qualification of his ideas on this
particular point, as put forth in his first paper, is an evidence that he
is making progress in the right direction ; and I have no doubt in due
time he will get on the " right tack," and throw the equalised, mixed,

370 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

forcing theory of circulation overboard altogether. I also observe that
he maintains that hot ice "is not at air' a curiosity; but in his endea-
vour to prove this, he is obliged to depart from the generally accepted
meaning of the word " hot," and when he is forced to do so in order
to support his argument, it is pretty clear the latter is of an unsound
nature. That " ice is not always of the same temperature " is a well-
known fact ; but, notwithstanding this truth, ice has no sensible heat,
and the latter is the right definition of hot, and therefore hot ice would
be a curiosity, whatever " C. M." may think or say to the contrary.
That '; ice is only a transformation of a body " is also true; but " CM."
is slightly mistaken when he says, " if that body is converted into its
normal condition, water, it expands by the application of heat, like all
other bodies." All other bodies, whatever may be their actual tempera-
ture, expand if that temperature is raised, and contract if it is lowered.
On the other hand, water must reach a temperature of 39^° before
expansion commences, so that, until reaching that temperature, water,
like its transformation, ice, is an exception to " C. M.'s " rule that "all
bodies expand by heat." That " a certain amount of heat becomes
latent when ice is converted into water" is also true; but this fact
does not assist " C. M." in proving that one particle of water is capable
of transmitting heat to an adjoining particle by conduction; neither
does it prove that " ice becomes hot when it is being converted into
water;" and, moreover, the latent heat of water is of no use for heating
our plant-houses, or anything else. The following experiment will
show the amount of sensible heat that becomes latent when ice is
converted into water. Take a pound of ice and pound it fine ; put it
into a wooden vessel of suitable dimensions; pour on to it a pound of
water at a temperature of 172°. The result will be two pounds of
water — not at a mean temperature between the ice and the hot water,
but at a temperature of 323, thus showing that the ice did not become
hot in the process of being converted into water. The ice absorbs the
sensible heat, and it disappears somewhere and is lost.

" C. M." tries to make it appear that I admit that water transmits its
heat to water, and all other bodies, in the same degree. What I said
on this point was as follows : It is true water parts with heat to all other
substances with which it comes in contact that are of a lower tempera-
ture than itself, but the degree of rapidity with which it does so is
measured by the conducting power of the material acted on. If
" C. M." construes this into an admission on my part that his facts are
" chiels that winna ding," he is at liberty to do so — at least, so far as I
am concerned. I would here, however, point out to "C M." that
misquoting his opponents is not the most likely way of convincing
them that they are wrong. " C. M." "fails to see the difference between "
the first promoters and the cause of circulation, as the latter takes
place in the hot- water apparatus. Perhaps I will fail in making the
difference plain to him. I will try, howe/er. Heat and expansion

i379-] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 371

cause the water to become relatively lighter than it was before heat
was applied and expansion took place. Cold and contraction cause the
water to become relatively heavier than it was before cooling and con-
tracting took place. Now it requires both agents — heat and cold — to
maintain circulation; neither can do so independent of the other. It
requires both to bring about the immediate cause — not the primary
reason — of the water circulating through the apparatus. In the case
of the hot-water apparatus, we make heat and expansion the first pro-
moters of circulation, because we want to heat our plant-houses; but
on a hot summer day, if we wanted to cool them, we would make cold,
or rather the absence of heat and contraction, the first promoters of cir-
culation, and in place of using fuel under the lowest point of the appar-
atus, we would use ice of as extreme cold as we could get. By the by,
may I ask " C. M." how many degrees below zero does he fix " extreme
cold, as the absence of heat? " On the top of the highest point circu-
lation would take place just the same as if combustion was going on
below the boiler, which shows that heat and expansion have no more to
do with circulation than cold and contraction. I need scarcely point
out that " C. M." is mistaken in supposing that expansion "moves in
one direction only — that is, towards the highest point of elevation. "
If the force of expansion was towards the highest point only, it would
not be necessary to have the bottom of a steam-boiler as strong as its
top. Expansion, however, is from the centre, and acts with equal force
in all directions, therefore all parts of a steam-boiler are made, or ought
to be, equally strong.

" C. M." says the relatively heavier water in the flow " must either
be forced or drawn uphill ; " and, " to prove that it is not drawn," he
points out that " there are generally air-pipes at the highest point of
elevation, and before the heavy column in the return would draw up
the column in the flow, the air would rush in and fill up its place."
This may furnish a reason for the incorrectness of the opinion that
circulation is principally due to the relatively heavier column; but I
think those who hold this opinion will not consider the reason con-
clusive that they are wrong; and if " C. M." has no other but this air-
pipe proof to offer in support of his statement that the relatively heavier
water in the flow-pipes " must be forced uphill " by the relatively lighter
water, then I submit he has failed in his effort to prove what he under-
took to prove. How could air rush into'an endless tube full of water,
and the feed-cistern higher than the highest point of the apparatus 1
In a properly-fitted-up hot-water apparatus, neither column pushes,
pulls, forces, or draws the other: both columns move contemporane-
ously; and when either column has to push, pull, force, or draw the
other, there is a defect in the fitting-up of the apparatus at some point.

We now come to where " C. M." uses the word "absurdity." It is
not quite clear to me whether he intends absurdity to apply to his
statement or to the inference I drew therefrom. If to the former, I

372 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

apologise to him for alluding to it; if to the latter, then I ask him
what other inference is it possible to draw from the statement referred
to, but that the water suffers no diminution of temperature on the way
from the boiler to the highest and farthest point of the structure.
Next, " C. M." tells us, "it is a well-known fact that a house situated
above the level of the others is the hottest, which proves the value of
elevation." I must again differ with " C. M." It does not prove the
value of elevation; neither does it prove that a quicker circulation
takes place in the higher house. It only proves that the hotter water
gets there, probably through the apparatus being fitted up on the
equalised, mixed, forcing, or on the strata theory of circulation, by
some one who advocates sinking the boiler as far as practicable below
the main body of the piping, and whose knowledge of heating by hot
water extends only a little beyond the fact "that water is water, a
liquid, and not iron, stone, lead, or ice." I must also say that it is not
" a well-known fact that a house situated above the level of the others
is the hottest." If " C. M." will do me the honour of a visit, I will
show him that this fact of his is not amongst those " chiels that
winna ding."

The points of practical value to be settled in this discussion are, in
my opinion, as follows : Is a continuous rise in the flows, from the top
of the boiler to their farthest points of extension in the compartments
to be heated, essential to rapid circulation 1 I say No; and in place
of being essential, the continuous rise is a hindrance to circulation.
Is it necessary or essential to rapid circulation that the top of the
boiler should be below the main body of both the flow and return
pipes, whether there is only one house to heat or a range of houses 1
I again say No, and that any number of compartments in a range can
be successfully heated without sinking the bottom of the boiler more
than one foot below the level of the lowest floor on which it is neces-
sary to place the pipes in any of the divisions composing the range;
and further, that this can be done without a dip (that is, dipping and
rising again) in the flow. Now if those who differ with me will keep
to the points here indicated, it will save valuable space in ' The Gar-
dener ' at present; and when the long nights come, perhaps the Editor
will find room for us to discuss the side-issues of this watery question.

J. Hammond.

Brayton Hall, July 11, 1879.

I was sure Mr Hammond would be surprised to hear that hot-water engineers
and gardeners were perfectly familiar with the system of laying pipes with a con-
tinuous direct fall from the top of the boiler down to the return. He is so sur-
prised, that he can even yet hardly credit the astounding intelligence. This
being a matter of fact about which it is unnecessary to have any discussion, I
have simply to inform Mr Hammond, that if he chooses to come to Edinburgh,
I will show him places fitted up twelve and twenty years ago in the manner re-
ferred to ; and, moreover, my own firm have during the last ten years fitted up a

i879-] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 373

considerable number of places witb the pipes running down all the way from the
boiler ; and I know other hot-water engineers who have done the same. This
will surely settle this point, whatever we may make of the others.

Mr Hammond complains that I pass by his remarks by characterising them as
serious and grievous errors, &c, because I cannot refute them ; but I have refuted
them. His statement about it making no difference to the circulation whether
the boiler is 2 or 4 feet below the level of the pipes I characterised as a grievous
mistake, and I proved this conclusively by quoting one of the first authorities
upon the subject. I was in doubt what Mr Hammond really meant in his ori-
ginal article on this point, and therefore I queried thus : " If by this he means
that it makes no difference to the circulation whether it is 2 or 4 feet from the
lowest point to the highest," &c. Now, most unfortunately for Mr Hammond,
he settled this point in his reply to Mr Inglis in the May number by boldly
staking his whole case upon two points. He says if he is wrong here he is wrong
altogether, and all that he has said is worthless.

I shall prove that on these two points — viz., the return current and vertical
height — he is in error, and consequently all he has said is worthless. In that
reply he says, " the rapidity of circulation of the water in the heating apparatus
is not measured or determined by the elevation of the flow above the point on which
the fire acts, but by the difference of the specific gravity of the volume of water in
different points of the apparatus." I quoted Mr Kinnear Clarke to show the
utter fallacy of this idea. I quoted his very words ; but it is clear that Mr
Hammond does not understand the figures, otherwise he would never have writ-
ten as he has done in his last. He says Mr Clarke qualifies his conclusions ; but
I say he does not — not in the slightest degree ; and, moreover, Mr Clarke could
not possibly qualify this law — he has merely formulated what is admitted by all
scientific men since the days of Torricelliana Pascal. Let it be observed that the
point here is not the rate the water moves at, which is determined by local cir-
cumstances ; but whether by increasing the vertical height the motive power is
increased also ; for if only a half or a ninth of the absolute power due to gravity
is available when the height is 20 feet, only the half or a ninth is available —
other things being equal — at 10 feet. Therefore, whatever the velocity may be
in an apparatus at 10 feet of height, this is increased by the difference between
96.6 and 136.2 ; or, in other words, by increasing the height from 10 to 20 feet,
the motive power, whatever it is, is increased nearly 42 per cent. Mr Ham-
mond, after proving conclusively — to his own satisfaction at least — that the
vertical height has nothing to do with the motive power, says the way to in-
crease the velocity is by increasing the difference between the temperature of the
water as it leaves the boiler at the highest point and enters at the lowest. This
is exactly equivalent to saying, that although he is certain 2 and 2 does not
make 4, he is quite sure 1 and 3 does. I will show that increasing the vertical
height and increasing the difference between the temperatures of the two columns
acts exactly in the same manner, and exactly in conformity with Mr Clarke's
figures.

But if, as Mr Hammond says, the proper way to increase the velocity of the
circulation is "by causing the water to flow over a larger surface of piping in the
houses to be heated," then the more piping on an apparatus the quicker the cir-
culation ; and if, in an apparatus of say 3000 feet, it takes an hour and a half
from the time the fire is lighted until all the water in the apparatus has passed
through the boiler, by increasing the quantity to 6000 feet, will the water make
the circuit in less time — say an hour and a quarter? If increasing the quantity
of piping determines the rate of speed at which the water moves, then it would

374 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

be possible to put on piping — say 10 or 100 miles — sufficient to drive the water
through the apparatus at a speed equalled only by the electric spark. I have
no doubt they will. I may here state that, as any one may see who takes the
trouble to read my former letter, when I referred to Mr Hammond not mastering
the subject, I referred not to the whole subject of heating with hot water, as Mr
Hammond tries to make it appear, but to that particular branch of it which
deals with the motive power. I will now show that increasing the difference of
the temperature between the water as it leaves the boiler and in the returning
column acts exactly in the same manner as increasing the heights.

I will again quote Mr Clarke ; page 484, he says : " Motive power of water in
circulation through heating pipes. The ascensional force is measured by the
difference in weight of the two columns of water of the same height ascending
and descending to and from the boiler. The difference of weight is ascertained
from the difference of the average temperature of the columns from which the
respective densities are deducted by the aid of table No. 109, page 339." He then
goes on to give the formula which I quoted. Mr Hood in his work, page 18,
says : " The higher we make the ascending and descending pipes, the more rapid
is the circulation of the water;" "because, as motion is obtained in conse-
quence of the difference in weight of the ascending and descending columns of
water" (and this difference in weight is owing to different densities; or, as Mr
Hammond says, the difference of their specific gravities), " the greater the
height of these columns the greater must be the difference in their weight, and
therefore must be the force and velocity of motion." Again, on page 28, Mr
Hood says : " There are two ways by which the amount of the motive power may be
increased, — one, by allowing the water to cool a greater number of degrees between
the time of its leaving the boiler and the period of its return through the descend-
ing pipe ;" "the other, by increasing the vertical height of the ascending and
descending column." " The effect produced by these are precisely similar, for by
doubling the difference of temperature between the flow and return the same in-
crease in power is obtained as by doubling the vertical height." Mr Thomlinson,
in his ' Treatise on Warming and Ventilating,' adopts and endorses Mr Hood's cal-
culations, pages 133 to 138. Mr Deuchar's ' Garden Architect : Treatise on the
Construction of Hothouses,' page 187, says: "When the motive power, there-
fore, is not of sufficient strength, the increase of the height of the column ascend-
ing from the boiler must be depended on for any additional motive power." Mi-
Hammond says that the proper way is to increase the quantity of piping in order
that the water may be colder when it returns to the boiler. No doubt this is
one way, but a most improper way, for two considerations : first, the quantity of
piping must be settled by consideration apart from the circulation ; and second,
because by increasing the quantity the friction increases in a greater proportion
than the power, and consequently increasing the amount of pipe past a certain
point will prevent circulation altogether. I am sure I need no elaborate argu-
ment to prove this to the intelligent readers of ' The Gardener.'

Now, as to the alleged return current in flow-pipe. Mr Hammond has no
misgivings upon this point. He asserts that a return current goes on continu-
ally in the flow-pipe, and to stem this current all the efforts of his genius are
directed. His manner of proving the existence of this current is curious : it is,
that water of less specific gravity cannot force that of a greater uphill. If a
lighter fluid cannot force a heavier uphill, there never can be a forward motion
at all in hot-water pipes with a rise to far end from boiler, nor can there ever be any
circulation in any apparatus, even on his own principle ; for, suppose there is 4
feet of a vertical pipe before the continuous descent begins, how can the lighter and

1879.] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 375

hotter Avater get up this pipe except it force the colder and heavier water before it,
for the water at the very top of the boiler must be hotter and lighter than at a point
4 feet away ? That a lighter fluid, bulk for bulk, can force a heavier uphill,
every mercurial barometer, every pump and chimney in the country proves. All
circumstances connected with the case show conclusively that this back current
can only exist for a few minutes after the fire is kindled, and is, as Mr Hammond
says, not worth talking about.

To satisfy those of your readers who have taken the trouble to follow this dis-
cussion, and whose tastes and habits of thought have not led them to investigate
the matter, I may state that in a heating-apparatus I have fitted up for the very
purpose of experiments, there is inserted in the flow-pipe, about 4 feet from the
boiler, four glass slips 6 inches long, 1| inch broad, one on top, one on bottom,
and one on each side. By watching the flow of the water, it can be seen, with-
out the shadow of a doubt, that four minutes after the fire is put on, forward
motion begins at this glass, and two minutes after it begins the whole body of the
water from top to bottom, from side to side, goes forward up the hill from the
boiler, and not a vestige of a return current. It is impossible, from the nature
of the case, it could be otherwise. This apparatus, I may say, contains about
150 feet of 4-inch pipe, and is erected in such a way that it can be made to have
a rise to far end 60 feet away from boiler ; or with a continuous run down from
top of boiler to return. I may also state, that from elaborate experiments car-
ried out by inserting a series of thermometers in the pipe, and noting the rise on
the register, I find that, with a rise to far end, and H foot more height, the water
goes round several minutes quicker than with a continuous fall, as Mr Hammond
recommends. This is again exactly what one would expect— viz., that the cir-
culation should be slower with the less height. It makes no difference where
the highest point is — not a shade of difference. I may say further, that these
trials have been repeated over and over again with the same result ; and should
any reader of ' The Gardener ' have any doubts remaining, I shall be delighted to
place the apparatus at his disposal, and let him satisfy himself. I can send you
figures and full particulars should any one desire to see them.

Now as to the stoke-hole, which is really the important point in this discus-
cussion, I have a difficulty in understanding Mr Hammond's position. What
does he propose ? I find in my experience, which has been considerable— having
been, speaking roughly, connected with the erection of about six or seven hun-
dred ranges of glass, large and small — the great difficulty to be, having to pass
doorways and passages, and in ninety-nine out of every hundred cases where we
have a deep stoke-hole this is the cause. I am sure every one concerned will
be delighted to find some means of avoiding this unmitigated nuisance. "Well,
what does Mr Hammond advise ? My firm have several ranges of glass to heat
just now with a passage running from end to end of the range about 2 feet from
the back wall ; the boiler is to be placed on the north side of the passage, and as
the passage has to be crossed at least in three different places, we are at present
in the belief that we must sink the boiler until the flow-pipe is at least a few
inches below the floor level. We are afraid of water, and may have to cut a
drain, at considerable expense, to avoid being drowned out.

Now if Mr Hammond can make the apparatus work as well with the bottom
of the boiler one foot below the floor level, we shall not only be delighted to have
the information, but pay him handsomely for it ; or, if he takes out a patent, I
will guarantee that he will soon make a large fortune. I confess I am quite at a
loss, after reading his three letters, what it is he proposes in this direction.
He commenced his original article in the February number by reprobating

2c

376 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

"the practice of sinking the boiler below the level of both the flow and return
pipes." For my own part, I began and ended my former letter by a reference to
what I consider a necessary evil — viz., a deep stoke-hole. But no one is yet any
the wiser for all the information Mr Hammond has vouchsafed us.

I ask Mr Hammond, as a special favour, to go into the matter in reference to
arrangements of houses as above, which, I assure him, from a pretty extensive
knowledge of hothouses, is the main difficulty. I am perfectly well aware that
various ingenious expedients have been recommended to overcome dips by throw-
ing all the hot water up into a box and other means ; but all who are conver-
sant with the matter know that the success, where adopted, has not been by any
means of such a nature as to lead others to follow ; and if Mr H. has nothing
better to recommend, he is again only bringing forward the ghost of bygone
days.

If Mr Hammond's sole object is to prove that after the pipes travel, say 50 or
60 feet below the pathway with a gradual rise, they should — or rather the flow-
pipe should — immediately on entering the house, rise to its highest point, then
gradually slope back to the return, is the best way to lay pipes, I do not know
if there is really much necessity for discussion about it. For my own part, I
consider it of not the slightest importance, any further than may be desirable
from accidental circumstances. If the height is the same, there is no difference be-
tween the power necessary to raise the water in a vertical pipe than in a pipe at an
angle, whatever that angle may be, from the well-known law of liquids that pres-
sure is to be counted by height only ; for "the pressure exerted by a liquid in
virtue of its weight (or gravity) on any portion of the liquid, or on the sides of
the vessel in which it is contained, depends on the depth and density of the liquid,
but is independent of the shape of the vessel and of the quantity of the liquid "
— Ganot's Physics, p. 79, — italics are mine. This proves that the expenditure
of power is the same in raising water by pressure in a vertical direction as at an
angle. It also further proves what I proved already, that the pressure depends
on the depth or height and the density of the liquid, so that it makes no differ-
ence to the motive power, seeing the friction in both cases must be the same.

If he objects to Ganot, let him consult any authority he pleases. Chambers, in
' Hydrostatico-Pneumatico,' p. 4, says: "When a pressure is exerted on any
part of the surface of a liquid, that pressure is transmitted undiminished to all
parts of the mass and in all directions ;" and on p. 7 : "the pressure of water
increases in intensity with the depth without regard to the shape or size of the
cavity or vessel containing it ; " and again, p. 8 : " the pressure on the horizon-
tal bottom of a vessel is as the area of the bottom and the perpendicular height
of the liquid, &c, that without regard to the shape of the vessel." It is surely
unnecessary to bring forward further proof. Any one who wishes to pursue the
subject further should consult the authorities named, or others— Tyndall, Lard-
ner, Todmorton, Dr Golding Bird, — they all agree upon this. Having shown
that the motive power in a hot- water apparatus depends directly upon the vertical
height, and that it makes no difference to this motive power whether the highest
point is near the boiler or at the farthest end, I have only to state, further, that
the discussion on the point raised by Mr Hammond is not of yesterday. I find
that Mr Hood, in his ' Treatise,' p. 12, thus refers to it : "Some persons have
imagined that if the pipes be inclined so as to allow a gradual fall of the water in
its return to the boiler, additional power is gained. This at first appears very
plausible, particularly with regard to some forms of the apparatus." He then
proceeds, by a series of elaborate calculations, to prove this idea to be an error;
go that the ghost was laid forty years ago, and the apparition Mr Hammond has

1879.] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 377

conjured up is only a bogus ghost at the test, which I am sure will not trouble
us much.

It only further remains for me to notice Mr Hammond's extraordinary experi-
ment to prove that practically water is an absolute non-conductor. In any case,
whatever it proves, it does not prove that water is practically a non-conductor. I
think, if I recollect right, I have seen something about such an experiment to
illustrate the doctrine of what is called the latent heat of liquefaction and the
specific heat of water. Had Mr Hammond informed himself properly he would
have known that the reason why his hand in his experiment will not feel any
sensation of heat until the whole of the ice is melted, is not because it is an
absolute non-conductor, but because of the great amount of latent heat taken up
in the passage of water from the solid to the liquid state ; for it is found that it
takes as much heat to rnelt one pound of ice at 0° as to raise one pound of water
from 0° to 79.24° ; therefore the latent heat of fusion of water is fixed at 79.24°
centigrade, or 142.65° Fahr. — (See Deschand's Natural Philosophy, trans-
lated by Professor Everett, part ii., pp. 426-444.) In other words, one pound
of ice at 32° Fahr. requires as much heat to melt it, without raising the tem-
perature one iota, as will suffice to raise one pound of water from 32° to 142.65°
Fahr. But the conducting power of water need not be a disputed powej at
all : it has been fixed just as definitely as the conducting power of solids ; and
although a very feeble conductor compared to most of the metals, such as gold,
silver, copper, &c, makes a favourable comparison with the earths.

As I said before, liquids are bad conductors, but water is one of the best. From
experiments made by Despretz, he fixed the conducting powers of various sub-
stances as follows : Gold, 1000 ; silver, 981 ; copper, 897 ; zinc, 363 ; lead,
179; porcelain, 12; iron, 374; tin, 304 ; marble, 23 ; brick-earth, 11. He fixes
the conducting power of water at y\, that of copper-ore 9.44, while copper is 8.97 ;
therefore any one will see that although it is not a good conductor compared to
some solids, it is about as good as some others, — which shows that Mr H.'s rough-
and-ready way of deciding the point is worth nothing ; but if he will take a rough-
and-ready method, let him go to a Turkish bath at a temperature of 160° ; he
will find he can bear it easily, if not comfortably, — he can handle wood, cloth, &c. ,
without inconvenience. But let him put his hand into water at 160°, and I
rather think he will come to the conclusion that it is not a non-conductor, for it will
part with its heat into his hand in a manner more sudden than agreeable. Or,
on a frosty morning, with the temperature at zero, let him handle wood, stone,
cloth, and ice in the open air, when they must, of course, be all at the same tem-
perature. He will find that the ice will conduct the heat from his hand suffi-
ciently quick to make it very unpleasant, and very much quicker than wood,
cloth, and many other substances. In fact, as I said already, it is exceedingly
inconvenient in discussing any question to have to prove every fundamental
point which ought to be known to every schoolboy. In conclusion, I have only
to state that, if the explanations already given do not convince Mr Hammond
that he is wrong fundamentally on almost every point, I despair of making it
plainer. A. D. Makenzie.

2 Grove Terrace, Edinburgh.

I have already encroached too much on your valuable space in reply to Mr
Hammond, that I cannot ask you to find room but for a few words in reply to
J. S. W., who asks my opinion about the failure of the miniature hot-water
apparatus described by him. While not professing to dogmatise in such matters*
I am of opinion that the cause of the failure was the enormous amount of

378 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

friction in such a length of small pipe. It is rather an intricate subject ; but I
may mention that, roughly speaking, the friction on water flowing through a
halt-inch pipe is relatively eight times as much as through a 4-inch pipe,— so
much so that, in a very long, small pipe, friction sometimes, as in J. S. W.'s case,
stops the flow altogether. When water lias to circulate through a very long pipe
in heating, it is necessary to use steam or other power to force the water, and
various ingenious engines have been from time to time adopted for this purpose.
If J. S. W. is satisfied that his "boiler of the future" is the boiler of the
future, the failure of the gas-pipe need not discourage him. Friction is apt to
be forgotten, but it is a most important element, and should not be lost sight of.
Where it is not considered, the theory as well as the practice is defective. —
Your obedient servant, A. D. Makenzie.

July 11, 1879.

When the discussion on this subject was first opened by Mr Hammond, I
understood that his object was to show that, in ordinary cases, deep stoke-holes,
and giving the "flows a continuous ascent from the top of the boiler to their
farthest point of extension in the building or buildings to be heated," were
unnecessary. Since various theories have been advanced as to the cause of the
water circulating, it now seems to me more of a theoretical quibble than a
comparison of attested facts.

In the July number, R. Inglis alludes to an "old fitter," who boasts of one
pipe acting as a flow and return. In that case there would be two currents of
water, travelling in opposite directions, the upper stratum going from, and the
UDder returning to, the boiler. This is what will occur in the flow when a con-
tinuous ascent is given them, not only at the time of " setting the fire agoing,"
but also while radiation of heat from the pipes continues. This I have proved
by inserting a glass cylinder about 2 feet long, the same size as the flow-pipe,
so that it forms a part of the same ; and after mixing with the water particles
of matter of about the same specific gravity as the water, the two opposite
currents were plainly visible.

R. Inglis "predicts" that a greater quantity of water would flow if the
pipes were to ascend instead of descending on leaving the boiler. One of the
houses I alluded to in the May number has equal to 350 feet of 4-inch pipe,
aud the flow runs down an incline of about 14 inches to where it enters the
house ; then it continues its course on a level, and on leaving drops about 13
iaches, followed by a slight descent to the boiler, near which is one of Mes-
senger's valves.

The action of this apparatus I will endeavour to describe. Thus, supposing
the whole to be cold, and the valve closed : the fire is set agoing, and the
water in the boiler is raised to 200° Fahr. If you then examine the boiler,
wdiich is uncased for the purpose, you will find that to the touch there is
scarcely a perceptible difference in temperature between the bottom and top.
The return-pipe, so far as the valve, will be hot. That part of the flow on a
level with the aperture where the water leaves the boiler will be hot also, but
the part which is below that level cold, as at the commencement. Open the
valve. What is the result ? The hot water speedily passes down the flow, and
the bottom part of the boiler becomes cold by the inward rush of cold water,
and continues cold, however fierce the fire may be, until the whole of the cold
water in the pipes has made its circuit and become heated.

R. Inglis thinks J. H. " will no doubt be done for ever with the old system."

1879.J ROUND LONDON. 379

J. H. has tried the old system, and also what we may call the new system, and
given each a fair trial. Has Mr Inglis done as much ?

"What I use for a boiler is six of Cannel's flues. The space for the fire is
rather large, and surrounded by fire-brick. This may appear wasteful ; but on
trial it was found to evaporate 6.8 lb. water per lb. of coke consumed. Not
very bad, compared with steam-boilers. I name this, as some may be disposed
to doubt what I stated above — viz., that there is to the touch scarcely a per-
ceptible difference of temperature between the bottom and top of boiler when
heated to 200° Fahr., and disconnected from the houses by closing the valves.

J. HlSCOCKS.

The Mills, Swallowclife, Salisbury.

[We think the points at issue are very important, or we would not have
devoted so much space to their discussion; and we hope that all irrelevant
matter will be as much as possible avoided by our correspondents. A few
facts as to the practical working of the different s-ystems are worth volumes of
speculative argument. — Ed.]

ROUND LONDON.

A friend who went up to London with me to "do" the show at Kilburn,
declared, after a day's wading amongst the acres of mud, that the mud of itself
was worth going four hundred miles to see. For myself, after looking at the
collections of manures from various firms, the collections of seeds, which were
extremely interesting, and the horticultural buildings and other appliances, I
thought I had had about enough of it, and left the glories of Kilburn for more
congenial fields. The wretched weather of the present year has made it one of
the very worst for inspecting gardens, for, despite the utmost care and energy of
the gardener, the continued rain and cold have defeated even his most determined
efforts. Kitchen-gardens as a rule were very weedy, crops backward and poor
in quality ; flower-gardens obviously failures, more especially so where many
of the more tender subjects, as Coleus and Alternanthera, are used. In many
instances these latter were either entirely stripped of their leaves, or at the
very least badly damaged, the Coleus in some cases dying off entirely. Sub-
tropical plants were peculiarly wretched looking, tattered with winds and spotted
by hail. In many kitchen-gardens the Potato crop will never be worth lifting :
where the plants are strong, disease had commenced its work on the shavvs.
Turning to fruits, bush and soft fruits are plentiful, but the Strawberries must
rot unless a decided change to warm sunny weather supervenes directly. Plums
are a failure, Apples and Pears the same, except in the case of the never-failing
sorts which it is folly to ignore so much. Amongst indoor crops, mildew is
somewhat common on Strawberries, Peaches, and Grape- Vines, a damp stagnant
atmosphere being wonderfully productive of that pest in a season like this. In
passing through some score or more of gardens, I was forcibly impressed with
the healthy, robust, and clean appearance of the stove-plants in those gardens,
where a cooler temperature was the rule, as against those where a hot steaming
atmosphere obtained. It might have been that in the one case the plants could
be inspected with enjoyment, whilst in the other a few minutes' steaming was
certain to produce a headache, and a consequent hurried run through the houses,
leaving thereby quite a different impression from the leisurely inspection in the
former. Leaving out any reference to the London Parks, notes are made of some
of the more interesting gardens visited. One of the first of these inspected was

3S0 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

that of Sir Trevor Lawrence, M.P., at Burford Lodge, Dorking, which is becom-
ing (anions for the grand collection of Orchids in course of being formed there.
The collection is so large and varied that there is only space to note a few of the
more rare or large specimens. In the cool-house were numbers of Odontoglossums
of various kinds, all in the finest health, including 0. vexillariuni flowering
freely. Mr Spyers, the Orchid-grower, thinks the ilowers of this species are
deeper in colour when grown in a higher temperature than that of the cool-house.
The extremely pretty Masdevallia bella was flowering profusely. A fine specimen
of the rare Restrepia antennifera had several flowers developed. Oncidium
incurva was noted as good for producing flowers for cutting purposes; and several
plants of Epidendrum vitellinum, with their glowing spikes of scarlet, lent
colour to the whole. In the next house were noted Epidendrum Wallasii, rare
and curious in its colouring; a grand plant of Calanthe Dominiana, extraordinary
in its shade of colour ; the deliciously scented iErides japonicum, fine plants of
Bollea ccelestis, the new B. Lawrencianse just opening, the nearly allied Pexatorea
Klabochorum, a large mass of Ccelogyne barbata growing and rooting quite
freely, and grand plants of Cymbidiums eburneum and Mastersii growing in
loam. In the Cattleya house were flowering Dendrobium sulcatum, curious in
its shade of yellow ; Cattleya Mossire in numbers, C. maxima, C. amethysto-
glossa, and specimens of Lrelia purpurata. Many of the species were represented
by splendid masses, including a very large piece of C. gigas. In a large stove
we noted the curiously bearded Bolbophyllum barbigeum, a panful of the beauti-
ful Cypripedium niveum, many of the spikes having three flowers, grand examples
of C. Sedenii, C. Dominiana, and C. Parishii, which, as grown and flowered here,
is a very beautiful species. Dendrobium Wardianum was growing hung from
the roof, in grand pieces and numerous varieties. In a square little house is
growing a large mass of the new Odontoglossum Londesboroughianum, one of the
travelling Orchids. In another structure were iErides quinquevulnerum,
Oncidium intermedia, Dendrobium M'Carthise, and Utricularia Endressii in
flower. An extraordinary mass of Oncidium ampliatum majus was also growing
here. Close by was a large plant of the extremely rare Ccelogyne Parishii, large
Angrsecums, Pitcher-plants, Saccolabiums, &c. In a frame were luxuriating
large masses of Disa grandiflora, and various hardy Orchids. In a vinery we
found specimens of various Pleiones, Vanda teres, Anguloas, &c; and just off
from this house, in a small lean-to, is a collection of Masdevallia?, in large plants
and excellent health. The point of interest in this structure is a specimen of
Oncidium macranthum with a grand spike. The Bull's-blood form of Masde-
vallia Harryana is also blooming. We had only time to thank Mr Spyers, and
run for the train, which we were just in time to — lose. Visitors to Burford
Lodge will find two more gardens worth inspecting — the Denbies, just opjDosite,
and the Deepdene. Want of time, in our case, hindered us from seeing these
establishments. The next morning I found myself right north of London, close
to Harrow, a district unrivalled for its views from many points. The largest
garden in this locality is Stanmore Priory, between Edgeware and Harrow, and
belonging to Sir John Kelk. Owing to the estate being in the market, the most
is tried to be got out of it without being too particular as to look. We found
some grand Azaleas here, apparently potted in loam. Peach crops were in
various stages, as also Grapes, and other fruits. Plant-houses were devoted to
growing plants for furnishing purposes mainly, the most notable amongst these
being a grand lot of deciduous Calanthes, the finest we have seen for some time.
Dendrobium nobile was also well done and in quantity. The conservatory
attached to the mansion is a splendid structure, furnished with immense speci-

i379-] HIBISCUS COOPERII. 381

mens of greenhouse Araucarias, Palms, and Tree-ferns. The roof is draped with
climbers. Extending along the front of the mansion and the conservatory is a large
flower-garden, where planting out was still being carried on. Several immense
pyramids of scarlet Geraniums, Heliotropes, and Clematis, is a feature in this
garden: the largest Geranium pyramid is 15 feet high, and proportionate in
breadth, and must, when in perfection, be a sight worth going miles to see.
The kitchen-garden is also rather extensive, the walls being placed at different
angles, in order to secure various aspects for fruit-trees. Of the many other
gardens visited in this district there is only space to notice that belonging to
Mrs Holland, Stanmore Hall, near the village of Stanmore. This is not an
extensive place, but is being remodelled to some extent under the direction of
Mr Sidy, the gardener there. The clumps of Rhododendrons and hardy Azaleas
are magnificent, though rather past when we saw them. A splendid conservatory,
which is also undergoing a complete overhaul, occupies a prominent position in
the grounds. In one of the greenhouses Tomatoes are grown in pots, the plants
being trained with a single stem under each rafter. When ripe, the clusters of rich-
coloured fruit must be exceedingly ornamental, and is one of the best examples
of combining utility with ornament we have seen. Vine borders are being
re-made, Peach trees lifted and replanted, and stove and greenhouse plants grown
on into specimens. Some of the healthiest plants of Adiantum Farleyense we
have ever seen were growing in loam. R. P. B.

( To be continued. )

HIBISCUS COOPERII.

This beautiful stove-plant, which ought to be in every collection, is
a native of New Caledonia. The leaves are about 3 inches in length
and 2 in breadth, ovate, acute at the apex, and finely variegated with
green, pink, and white. The flowers are scarlet, and shaped like
those of an Abutilon. There are few plants more deserving of culti-
vation than this Hibiscus; not only are the leaves beautiful, but
when the plant is in flower it is really magnificent. It will strike at
any season, provided there is a propagating-pit at command. The
cuttings should be taken off about 4 or 5 inches in length, prepared
in the usual way, and inserted in pots or pans in silver sand, plunged
in a gentle bottom-heat, attended to in watering, and kept shaded
until they strike, which is generally in about a fortnight. As soon
as they are well rooted they should be potted into pots 2J inches
in diameter, in a mixture of half loam, half peat, with a little char-
coal and a dash of silver sand to keep the compost open. They
should then be shaded from bright sun until they have taken with
their shift ; afterwards they should be kept near the glass, in the full
blaze of the sun, and liberally supplied with water. When their
balls are well matted with roots, their next shift should be into pots
4 or 5 inches in diameter, the same compost being used as previously
recommended, with a little well-decomposed cow-manure added.

382 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

Always attend to shifting as the plants require it ; but this must not
be overdone, or the leaves will be apt to lose their fine variegation.
If nice bushy plants are wanted, pinching must be attended to; but
cuttings struck in February or March, and grown on without stop-
ping, make nice table plants by September. Grower.

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The monthly meeting was held in the Hall, 5 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh,
on Tuesday evening, the 1st ult., Mr Dunn, President, in the chair. Thirteen
new members having been admitted, seven others were nominated for admission
at next meeting. Mr James Grieve, Pilrig Nurseries, read a paper on the genus
"Dianthus," in which he gave an interesting account of the improvements
effected upon the various species by florists and hybridisers during the past
200 years. 360 distinct varieties were enumerated by the then celebrated
Rea, so early as the year 1676. In treating of these plants, he strongly ad-
vised beginners to procure the commoner and more hardy sorts on which to try
their " 'prentice hand." They would thus gain a knowledge of their require-
ments, and gradually qualify themselves for dealing with the rare and more
tender kinds, now regarded by florists of the Glenny school as the finest for
show purposes. Carnations, Pinks, and Sweet - Williams, were prominent
members of the tribe, and these all required for their full devolopment very
similar treatment; and that, in a general way, must be liberal. Well-manured,
deeply - cultivated soil, was in all cases indispensable. It was also of the
greatest importance that all should be planted out at an early period of the sea-
son, and that the utmost care should be exercised to protect them against the
ravages of wire-worm, for which he knew no better plan than trapping with
Potatoes or Carrots placed in the soil near the plants. Two modes were
available for the propagation of named varieties, — first, by cuttings, which he
recommended should be put in hand glasses, early in September; and second,
by layering, which should be done so early as young shoots could be had.
Coddling, under any circumstances, was to be avoided ; and while it was
necessary to keep the young plants under glass during winter, they should
always have a free current of air, even in the severest weather.

Mr A. M'Kinnon, Melville Castle Gardens, followed with a short paper on
the "Cultivation of the Strawberry," the leading features of which he de-
scribed as being, deep trenching, plenty of manure, mulching in the fruiting
season with clean straw, keeping the ground free of weeds, and the absence of
crops between the rows, so as to permit the full development of the foliage and
free access to sun and air. He considered James Veitch to be the best variety
for open air cultivation in this part of the country.

Mr Robert Lindsay, Royal Botanic Gardens, read a paper on "Filmy
Ferns." These he remarked were widely distributed over tne temperate parts
of the world. Three species, namely, Trichomanes radicans, Hymerophyllum
Tunbridgense, and H. Wilsonii, were indigenous to Britain. Many admirers of
these beautiful plants were deterred from attempting their cultivation from a
fancied difficulty in providing the necessary requirements, He had found,
however, that they were as easily managed as their congeners. A house with
a southern aspect, shaded so as to shut out the rays of the sun, but not so

1879.] CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 3S3

dense as to exclude light, and a constantly close humid atmosphere were con-
ditions easily obtainable, and in point of fact were the great secret of success.
For few or none of the known species was artificial heat at all necessary ; on
the contrary, they succeeded best when kept cool in winter, and even
when subjected to two or three degrees of frost. At the same time, it
was desirable to avoid extremes. Soil was of comparatively little import-
ance, so long as it was of a light porous character, and the pots well
drained. Interesting discussions followed the reading of the several papers,
and the usual votes of thanks were accorded to the writers.

Among the plants and flowers on the table for exhibition were a collection of
Fancy Pansies, from Messrs Downie & Laird, including two new varieties called
Miss Talbot and Estella, which the Floral Committee recommended to be shown
again. Messrs William Gordon & Sons had a crimson Petunia, of a remarkably
dwarf compact habit of growth. Messrs Thomas Methven & Sons exhibited a
fine collection of Regal and Forcing Pelargoniums, the most striking of which
were Triomphe de St Maude, Digby Grand, Beauty of Oxton, Fire King, Dr
Masters, Annie, and their fine new wThite variety Countess of Rosebery.
Messrs Dickson & Co. sent a large number of interesting things, including
branches of the new golden-leaved Laburnum ; Paul's double Crimson Thorn,
Alnus imperialis ; Purple-leaved Peach ; New Silver variegated Ash, Rosa
rugosa; trusses of greenhouse and hardy Rhododendrons, alpine plants, and
Viola blooms. Mr John Dick, Avenel House, showed a fine specimen of the
beautiful Primula capitata; and Mr A. Nisbet, Gibraltar Villa, a new blue
Lobelia named Jeannie Deans. It was intimated that at next meeting papers
would be read by Mr A. Kerr, on " Forcing Dutch roots ; " by Mr John Cowe,
on "The Hyacinth;" and by Mr George M'Kinlay, on the "Cultivation of
the Pear."

— ^^>E^e<s-*^ —

ROYAL CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

The summer exhibition of the above Society was held in the Waverley
Market on 9th July, and seldom, indeed, has any of the shows of the Society
been held under more unfavourable circumstances as regards weather. The
very unpropitious climate which had prevailed for such a long time seemtd
to reach the culminating point, as it was almost a continuous downpour
of rain the whole day. Notwithstanding so many drawbacks, the show-
was a very successful one — in some respects, even better than any similar
show of the Society. This was largely due to the grand turn - out of
nurserymen and florists, for whose exhibits eight additional 20-feet tables
had to be provided. A magnificent assortment of plants, consisting of the
finer varieties of Rhododendrons, Standard Sweet-bays, and the fine kinds of
Thujas, Retinosporas, &c. &c, numbering many hundreds of plants, all in pots
and tubs, were ranged along the circular space in front of the aquarium.
These were furnished by the Lawson Company, and were awarded a special
prize of £10. Besides this, the same firm furnished one of the large tables
with Roses in pots, Rhododendrons, Pelargoniums, Heaths, Tree-Ferns, and
foliage plants. On this table we noticed some nice pans of the hardy Orchid,
Orchis fuliosa.

The nexfc long table was furnished by Ireland & Thomson with beautiful
Crotons, Dracaenas, Caladium3, tuberous Begonias, Spirjeas, Petunias, and a

3S4 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

splendid lot of plants suitable for room and table decoration ; also cut Roses,
and Orchids in bloom.

The next table was very effectively furnished by Downie & Laird, and con-
sisted of Palms, Rhododendrons, Gloxinias, Pelargoniums, Ferns, Heaths, and
other flowering and foliaged plants; also an assortment of blooms of Pyreth-
rums, Pansies, and bedding Violas. A table furnished by Messrs Methven
& Sons consisted of beautiful Pelargoniums, Heaths, Tree and other Ferns,
Palms, &c. Conspicuous on this table were a large number of the New Zealand
Filmy Fern (Todea superba), and a collection of cut blooms of Iris. The last
of the large tables in the centre of the market was furnished by Dicksons &
Co., Waterloo Place, and was made up of Tree-Ferns, Pelargoniums, and foli-
age plants ; also a large display of Pansies, Violas, Geraniums, Pyrethrums,
herbaceous plants, and alpine plants.

One of the most interesting tables in the show was furnished from the
Botanic Gardens, and consisted of Pitcher-plants, Darlingtonias, Sarracenias,
Droseras, Diona?a muscipula, Filmy Ferns, a large specimen of the Elk-horn
Fern (Platycerium grande), and a beautiful specimen of the Lattice-leaf plant
of Madagascar ; also a large basin tilled with the water-plants Pistia strati-
otes and Pontederia crassipes. It is to be hoped that this or similar collec-
tions may be exhibited on future occasions, as they attracted a very great
amount of attention.

For the table of plants in the gardeners' section, three competitors entered
the lists — viz., Mr James Spence, Grange; Mr Robert Grieve, Falcon Hall; and
Mr A. Stalker, St Roque. The prizes were awarded in the order named.
The tables were all beautifully arranged, and the judges had some difficulty in
awarding the prizes. They consisted generally of Palms, Dracaenas, Crotons,
Ferns, Heaths, Pelargoniums, Achimenes, Fuchsias, Petunias, &c. &c. A very
showy table came from Drummond Brothers, George Street, and consisted of
well-bloomed plants, in 5-inch pots, of the finest kinds of Pelargoniums, set in
a groundwork of small plants of Adiantum cuneatum, and edged with a very
fine Lobelia named "Brighton."

A similar table at the opposite end of the market was furnished by John
Makenzie, florist, Grange Loan, on which were some very fine Petunias,
Fuchsias, and a large quantity of bouquets for hand, table, and button-holes.
A table consisting of Palms, Ferns, and cut flowers was also exhibited by
Todd & Co., Maitland Street. As usual, Mr Robertson Munro, of the Aber-
corn Nursery, sent a very interesting display of hardy herbaceous and
alpine plants, and also a box of cut Roses.

The greenhouse flowering-plants were not up to the usual standard, though
some good specimen Heaths were shown, but not well flowered. The same
may be said of the Pelargoniums. Some well - grown Fuchsias were ex-
hibited in 9-inch pots, which were of considerable merit. The show of fruit
was a very small one, only one collection of six sorts being staged, and which
came from Mr Johnstone, Glamis, but as usual was very fine. Some excel-
lent Peaches, Nectarines, Figs, and Melons were also shown. Very few vege-
tables were shown, and those poor in quality.

In cut flowers, Mr Dickson, Belmont, Belfast, was to the front with his
Roses, very little inferior to those usually exhibited by him. There were
some nice boxes of Tea-Roses shown also. The arrangement of the tables, &c,
was chiefly under the superintendence of Mr M'Leod of the City Gardens,
who carried out a new feature in the way of large hanging-baskets suspended
from the girders, and draped with Palms, Ferns, sprays of Ivy, Box, and

1879.] CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY

385

other evergreens : the effect was very good indeed. Large specimen Palms
from the Botanic Gardens were dotted at intervals over the bare spaces on
the floor, which also looked well.

We must not omit to notice a collection of cool Orchids, exhibited by Mr
M'Gregor, Braefield, Lanark, which consisted of Odontoglossurns vexillarium,
cirrhosum, Alexandras, and Bluntii. The British and Exotic Ferns were a
strong feature of the show — some grand examples of Adiantum gracillimum, A.
Farleyense, A. Flemingii, &c, being shown; and the British Ferns exhibited
by Mr M'Cormick, Canaan Park, were very good. The competition in table
plants was also a strong one, and were very good and healthy.

The judges were Messrs Anderson, Oxenford ; Priest, Newbattle ; Cowe,
Morningside ; Gray, Eglinton Castle ; Garrett, "VVhittinghame ; Lindsay,
Botanic Gardens ; Currie, Edinburgh ; M'Farlane, Edinburgh ; Gorrie, Moulds-
lie; and Kettles, Archerfield. Owing to the very rainy weather which pre-
vailed, the attendance between twelve and two was but meagre. In the after-
noon, however, it greatly improved, and before five o'clock the market was
fairly filled. In the evening also there was a large turn-out. The band of
the Inniskilling Dragoons was in attendance both in the forenoon and evening,
and played a popular selection of music.

The following are the awards : —

GARDENERS AND AMATEURS.

Table of Plants, 30 feet by 5—1, J.
Spence, Grange ; 2, Robert Grieve, Fal-
cun Hall; 3. A. Stalker, St Roque.

Four Stove or Greenhouse Plants, in
flower. — 1, A. Paul, Gilmore Place ; 2, J.
M 'Cormick ; 3, J. Bauld.

Two Stove or Greenhouse Plants, in
flower. — 1, A. M'Kinnon, Melville Castle ;
2, J. Spence.

Six Foliage Plants, exclusive of Ferns.
— 1, J. M'Cormick; 2, G. Gordon; 3, T.
Macdonakl.

Two Foliage Plants, exclusive of Ferns.
—1, A. M'Kinnon ; 2, A. Scott.

Four Foliage Plants, in pots not ex-
ceeding 9 inches — 1, S. Grahame; 2, G.
Gordon; 3, T. Macdonald.

Six Plants for table decoration, 6-inch
pots.— 1, E. Tate, Balcarres, File ; 2, J.
M'Leod, Stirling-.

Two Orchids in bloom.— 1, A. M'Gre-
gor, Lanark ; 2, D. Cameron, Liberton.

One Orchid in bloom. — 1, A. M'Gregor ;
2, James Spence

Four Palms.— 1, G. M'Lure, Trinity;
2, G. Gordon.

One Palm, Specimen.— 1, J. M'Cor-
mick ; 2, J. Spence.

Three Dracaenas. — 1, J. Spence; 2,
G. M'Lure.

One Cycad —1, C. Smith.

Four Cape Heaths, distinct sorts. — 1,
A. M'Kinnon; 2, A. Paul, Giltnore Place.

Two Cape Heaths, distinct sorts. — 1,
Charles Smith.

Two Caladiums. — 1, G. Gordon; 2, G.
C reig.

J Two Coleus. — 1, G. Gray ; 2, S.
Grahame.

Two pots Amaryllis. — 1, A. Paul ; 2
j G. Macrae ; 3, T. Macdonald.

TwoAdiantums, sorts.— 1, S. Grahame;
2, A. Paul.

Two pots or pans Lycopodium, differ-
ent sorts. — 1, J. Cossar; 2, S. Grahame.
Six British Ferns, distinct varieties. —

1, J. M'Cormick; 2, H. M'Kenzie.
Eight Dwarf Ferns, distinct pots not

exceeding 6 inches.— 1, A. W. Anderson ;

2, G. Drummondand W. Dickson, equal.
Two Fuchsias, in pots not exceeding 9

inches.— 1, J. Walker ; 2, H. M'Kenzie ;

3, J. Bauld.

Two tricolor Geraniums.— 1, R. John-
stone; 2, T. Macdonald.

Two bronze Geraniums. — 1, R. John-
stone ; 2, S. Grahame.

Two white-edged Geraniums. — 1, P.
Johnstone ; 2, S. Grahame.

Four Pelargoniums, sorts, Show or
French varieties. — 1, J. Spence; 2, C.
M'Farlane; 3, T. Macdonald.

One Pelargonium, Show or French
variety. — 1, J. Spence ; 2, C M'Farlane.

Three Fancy Pelargoniums. — 1, T.
Macdonald ; 2, J. Spence

Four Calceolarias, sorts. — 1, C. Mac-
farlane ; 2, C. Smith.

Four Balsams, two soits at least. —
1, W. Rae, Millburn Tower.

Two Hand Bouquets. — 1, Miss M'Lar-
en ; 2, James Bauld.

Two pots or pans Achimenes, sorts. — 1,
W. Manson, St Leonardo ; 2, J. Spence.

386

THE GARDENER.

[.Aug.

Four pots or pans Gloxinias. — 1, S.
Grahame ; 2, T. Macdonald.

One pot Lilium auratum. — 1, G.
M'Lure; 2, A Paul.

Two Saxifraga pyramidalis. — 1, T.
Bowman; 2, G M'Lure.

Two puts Clematis, in bloom.— 1. H.
M'Kenzie.

One pot Clematis, in bloom. — 1, H.
M'Kenzie ; 2. G. Brown.

Two plauts Carnation Souvenir de la
Malmaison. — 1, J. Walker, Rosehall
House.

Twelve Alpines, in flower. — 1 , Mr
Drummond, Grange Loan ; 2, C. Smith,
Kestalrig.

Six Alpines, in flower.— 1, J. Bauld ; 2,
11 M'Kenzie.

Twenty-four cut Roses, of sorts, exclud-
ing Tea. — 1, W. Parlane, Roselea Row.

Twelve cut Roses, of .sorts, excluding
Tea.— 1, W. Parlane.

Six cut Roses, of sorts, excluding Tea. —
1, R. Johnston, Woolmet; 2, A. Stalker.

Twelve cut Tea Ruses, not less than six
sorts.— 1, W. Parlane; 2, A. M'Millan.

Six cut Tea Roses, not less than three
sorts. — 1, T. Bowman ; 2, G. L. Brown.

Centre-piece of Cut Flowers and Foli-
age for dinner-table decoration. — 1, Miss
M'Laren.

NURSERYMEN.

Forty-eierht cut Roses, of sorts. — 1,
Hugh Dickson, Belfast; 2, T. Smith,
Stranraer ; 3, J. Bryson, Helensburgh.

Eighteen cut Boses. — 1, H. Dickson

Twelve herbaceous Plants. — 1, Dick-
sons & Co.

Six table Plants. — 1, J. Bryson.

Four Roses, in pots. — J. Bryson.

Two Roses, in pots. — J. Bryson.

Twelve Alpines. — 1, Robertson Munro,
Abercorn Nursery; 2, Dicksons k Co.

Six Dracaenas, in pots not exceeding
nine inches. — J. Bryson.

Two Tree Ferns, four feet stem.— Dick-
sons & Co.

Fruit.

A collection of Fruit, six sorts. — G.
Johnston.

One Pine Apple.— 1, Mr M'Intyre ; 2,
J. Laing.

Two bunches of Grapes, black Ham-
burg.—1, Mr Carruther; 2, J. Boyd.

Two bunches of Grapes, black, any
other sort. — John Laing.

Two bunches of Grapes, white, any sort.
— 1, Mr Can uthers ; 2, J. Laing.

Six Peaches.— 1, A. Anderson ; 2, F.
S. M'Kinnon.

Six Nectarines. — A. Anderson.

One Melon.— 1, G. Johnston; 2, John
Laing.

Twenty -four Cherries. — 1, T. Bow-
man ; 2, Charles Smith.

A basket Strawberries. — G. Johnston.

Dish of Figs, six fruits. — 1, A. Ander-
son ; 2, J. Laing.

Vegetables.

Collection of Vegetables, eight sorts.
— 1, G. Potter; 2, T. Bowman.

Two Cauliflowers.— 1, T. Bowman ; 2,
G. Potter.

Two Cucumbers. — 1, J. Shearer; 2,
A. Anderson.

Twelve Round Potatoes.— 1, G. Potter ;
2, T. Bowman.

Twelve Kidney Potatoes.— 1, G. Potter;
2, T. Bowman.

Thirty pods French Beans.— G. Potter.

Twelve Earlv Horn Carrots.— 1, G. H.
M'Culloch; 2,'T. Bowman.

Six Lettuce. — 1, J. Boyd; 2, G.
M'Lure.

SPECIAL PRIZES.

A. Carruthers, for two large Dracaenas.
A. M'Millan, for trusses of Geranium.

Mr M'Grecror, Lanark, for Orchids.

NOTICES OF BOOKS,

Potatoes : How to Grow and Show them. By James Pink. Crosby
Lock wood & Co., London.

Mr Pink has in this handy volume gone very fully into the practical routine
of the preparation of the soil, and all other matters relating to the high-class

i879-

CALENDAR.

387

culture of the potato, by following which he has been among the most exten-
sive and successful exhibitors of potatoes. Those who want to be equally suc-
cessful cannot do better than consult this volume, it being an embodiment of
the practice which has brought so much success to its author.

The Orchard -house (by Thomas Rivers). Sixteenth Edition. Edited and
arranged by T. Francis Rivers. Longmans & Co.

When a work has reached its sixteenth edition, it seems almost superfluous to
notice it. It is well known that the author of this work, the late Thomas
Rivers of Sawbridge worth, was the originator of the cultivation of fruit-trees
in pots in cool glass-houses on an extensive scale and in a systematic style.
The enterprise in his hands has been thoroughly successful, and the practice
that resulted in success is very fully and clearly embodied in this volume. It
is not a mere epitome or skeleton of his methods of procedure. It is a very
elaborate and complete treatise, embracing all that relates to the construction
of suitable houses, and the potting, training, and after-management of Apricots,
Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, Pears, Figs, Grapes, Oranges, Cherries, &c. &c,
in pots. Almost every branch of the subject is clearly illustrated with wood-
cuts. Any one interested in the Orchard-house system of fruit-growing in pots
cannot have a better guide than this nicely -got-up volume.

@aUn»ai\

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

The very important operation of plant-
ing the stock of vegetables for winter
and spring supplies is generally com-
pleted by this time ; but where ground
is limited in proportion to the demand
for garden produce, various methods
have to be adopted to meet the case.
Many have to keep their Broccolis, and
all other of the Brassica kinds, in store
plots of ground till there is a clearance
of other crops, and the necessary pre-
paration made for permanent planting.
Broccoli may be lifted and transplanted
when nearly fully grown, and be great-
ly improved by the operation. It firms
the tissues of the plants, and enables
them to stand severe weather much
better. Ground may, as it becomes
vacant, be planted more thickly (with
such sorts as Kale, Brussels Sprouts,
and Savoys) now than when done
during June and July. Strawberries
which have stood three years may be
trenched down, and the ground will
answer well for Coleworts, Spinach,
Lettuce, or winter Onions. By being

well drained by trenching, and a large
quantity of trimmings of the Straw-
berries, with the mulching, turned to
the bottoms of the trenches, the soil is
kept open, and water allowed to pass
freely from the plants when there is
great abundance of rain or snow.
Stagnant moisture kills more plants
than severe frost. Artichokes (Globe)
should not be allowed to flower ; but
as soon as the heads are at their best
they should be cut, so that the plants
may not be unnecessarily weakened.
Artichokes grown on extra rich land,
or by frequent applications of manure-
water, are finer in quality, and more
tender, than those grown on starved
and crowded plants. Each plant should
stand well clear of its fellow, and have
the heads reduced in number when too
many show themselves. Asparagus
should not be allowed to become
crowded, especially if the crowns are
to be forced. They should have plenty
of light and air among them. If they
are prevented from flowering, they

388

THE GARDENER.

[Aug.

will be all the better for the trouble
takeu in them. French Beans may be
planted on warm borders, to be covered
by frames when there is danger appre-
hended from frost. Where early Cu-
cumbers or Melons are cleared off,
with a portion of the surface-soil re-
moved to prevent red - spiders from
establishing themselves, French Beans
would rind good quarters, and come in
well during the autumn, when they
would be safe from frost. Osborn's,
William's, Sion House, and Newington
Wonder are first-rate kinds for present
sowing. Beet left thickly for drawing
young should be treated systemati-
cally. They should be gone over, so
that thinning may be done by taking
the largest roots first. Such early lots
are supposed to be all used during the
next two months. Cabbage may be
sown again this month once or twice :
a number of small plants pricked in
sheltered quarters, and allowed to
stand the winter, will turn in for
spring planting, and would make a
capital succession to autumn-planted
stock. Rich, deeply-trenched ground
is of primary importance when fine
spring Cabbage are wanted. Sow for
supply of Red Cabbage plants. Where
Cabbage-sprouts are in much request,
it is a good practice to get the whole plot
well trimmed off, and give a mulching of
manure. Carrots should have a final
thinning. Though they may have
hitherto had the best only taken as
they were required for use, it is not well
to leave them crowded after this time.
If grubs should attack them, copious
waterings of guano-water, soot-water,
or other liquid manure, will help to
destroy them ; but when the vermin
are established, nothing will reach
them without destroying the roots.
Cauliflowers, to stand the winter, pro-
tected by frames or in sheltered posi-
tions, may be sown twice during the
month, though once answers well. It
is safe to have more than one lot to
fall back on. Three kinds may be
sown, and when they are planted out
in spring in one plot they make a
succession.

Celery may be earthed -up as the
plants require it. Though it is con-
sidered a good system by many to
"earth-up" all at once, we think
that the heads become more solid and
crisp when they are earthed-up piece-
meal as they grow. Plenty of manure-

water may be given ; a good mulching
after the plants are started will do
much to cause a free growth. Late
plantations may still be made. They
may not come large, but they last far
into the season, and do not readily
run to seed. We have had capital
Celery in June from August planta-
tions, the kind answering the pur-
pose best being dwarf Imperial. Mus-
tard, Cress, Radishes, Corn Salad, and
other kinds, should be sown under
glass protection after the middle of
August. Sow at least once a fort-
night ; and for the sake of order, do
not allow half-used-up crops of Salad
to remain on the ground : better to
have the ground left uncropped than
to be an eyesore, with remains of crops
standing, decaying, and becoming of-
fensive. Luttuce may now be planted
in quantity. Sow more kinds twice
or three times during the month.
Bath Cos is excellent for present sow-
ing. Batavian Endive may be plant-
ed out in quantity. When carefully
blanched, it is greatly valued for its
nutty flavour. A sowing of all kinds
of Endive may be made. They will
stand the winter, and last long in the
season. Dandelion (broad-leaved) and
Chicory should now be plentiful, and
may be lifted and placed in quarters
to blanch for use next month, should
there be a demand for these. Leeks may
have plenty of manure-water ; and a
good mulching of rotten manure would
help to blanch them, and materially
aid them in forming their growth.
Mushrooms are not likely to be plenti-
ful after such a cold and wet season,
therefore it is necessary to have a bed
started to meet the demand. A mix-
ture of turfy loam and some sheep-
manure in the Mushroom-bed is good
material to give thick solid Mush-
rooms. Plenty of horse-manure, with
a minimum of straw in it, is the man-
ure most desirable to grow good Mush-
rooms in, and a cellar is the most
suitable place to grow them. Mush-
room-houses should be underground,
and there would then be no necessity
for artificial heating with pipes. The
" fly " which is so troublesome during
summer, by depositing its larvas,
which ruin young Mushrooms, is easi-
ly combated with when the crops are
underground. Onions may be sown
from first of month to the middle of
it. Ground for these should be rich

i879-]

CALENDAR.

389

and well trenched. Sow in drills
from 12 to 18 inches apart.

Soot or wood-ashes pointed into the
surface of the soil is a preventive of
vermin, and excellent for the Onions.
They should not be sown too thickly,
as they are liable to become drawn up
and weakly for want of air, and do
not stand the winter so well, and more
likely to run prematurely to seed in
spring.

Potatoes should be lifted when their
tops show signs of changing colour :
dry them and store in pits in the usual
way. Parsley should be well thinned,
and plant the finest curled plants in
a sheltered position, where protection
cau be given during winter when snow
and severe frost are prevalent. Last
winter caught many "napping" with
short supplies of Parsley, and the long
cold spring did not do much to hasten
young sowings. Lift Shallots and
Garlic as they indicate ripeness : hang
them up in dry, airy quarters to be-
come firm, preparatory for keeping.
Seeds of all kinds may be harvested
dry, and kept cool and airy. Choice
kinds of vegetables which cannot be
had true may be saved in gardens ;
but the practice in a general way is
profitless and troublesome, as fine pro-
duce, and the best of it, cannot be had
for use in the kitchen and seeds raised
as well. Nevertheless, we save a small

portion of something choice yearly.
Top Peas which are growing too much
to straw ; hitherto these have had
abundance of rain, and little use for
mulching (July 14).

Tomatoes must be kept well thinned
of shoots and fruit ; give abundance of
liquid manure to those swelling heavy
crops of fruit ; look after birds and
wasps on these. Spinach may be sown
twice or three times during the month ;
the first to be round Spinach, the rest
prickly. Dust soot and lime over the
surface after sowing has been done.
Wood-ashes is capital for prevention of
vermin ; soaking the drills with soap-
suds or guano-water helps to prevent
the ravages of grubs, &c. Turnips
may yet be sown for winter use. In
very southern and warm districts
some sow Turnips as late as Septem-
ber ; white and red stone are good
kinds. Hoeing and cleaning the
ground must now have special atten-
tion. Though some can boast of se-
curing "excellent" crops with weeds
equally luxuriant, we cannot sympa-
thise with such cultivators, any more
than with the peasant who told us
that he had "excellent health, though
brought up among muck all his daj-s."
A clean garden closely cropped with
good vegetables at this season is a
credit ; the reverse is a disgrace.

M. T.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — By the end of this month
early Queens intended for starting
into fruit next January and February
should have their pots well filled with
roots, and be strong and well matured
in growth. They should now be man-
aged so that they neither make much
more growth on the one hand, nor on
the other be allowed to receive any
violent check. It requires a nice
adjustment of circumstances to have
these plants in proper condition. To
have them " pot - bound " too early,
and subjected to a high temperature
throughout the autumn, would either
cause them to fruit prematurely, or
they would show fruit very early in
the year which would be a mere
abortion, and come to nothing. The
temperature should therefore be de-
creased gradually as the days shorten.
The amount of moisture in both the

soil and air must be correspondingly
lessened, but not to such an extent
just now as is quite safe in the dead
of winter. That portion of the stock
of Queens intended to make a growth
in spring before starting must still
be encouraged to grow as directed
last month. Smooth Cayennes, and
other late-fruiting sorts that are now
out of flower, must be encouraged
with copious waterings of guano-
water when they require it, to keep
the soil steadily moist. Keep the
atmosphere damp by means of sprink-
lings, and at shutting-up time syringe
the plants overhead — missing as much
as possible the crowns ; also damp
the surface of the bed and all about
the collars of the plants with the
syringe. Let the heat run up for a
time to from 85° to 90°, with sun-heat
after shutting up ; and use fire-heat

390

THE GARDENER.

[Aug.

sufficient to prevent it falling below
70° before morning. Give fruit that
are colouring plenty of air. Keep
them drier than plants swelling their
fruit, but avoid drying them off en-
tirely at this season. Smooth Cay-
en ues, and other sorts in younger stages
that are growing freely, should be
supplied with fresh air sufficient to
prevent their drawing ; and see that
they get no check for want of water.
Syringe them gently on bright after-
noons when shut up, and give air in
the morning as soon as the heat ex-
ceeds 75°. Suckers on plants that have
fruited up to this time will now be
strong and ready to pot. Put them in
7 or 8 inch pots, according to their
size. Drain the pots well, use a rather
light fibryloam, and pot firmly, plung-
ing them in a bottom - heat of 90°.
Keep them rather close and moist, and
shade them in the heat of the day till
they make roots. Then water well, and
inure by degrees to full light and air.
Grapes. — Where the wood of early
Vines from which Grapes were all cut
in May is thoroughly ripe, let all re-
pairs in the way of painting, reglazing,
and any alterations in the heating
contemplated, be attended to forth-
with. Continue to put former direc-
tions in force in order to keep the
foliage clean and healthy. Late Grapes
now swelling off should have copious
supplies of water if the weather be dry.
Vines that have been bearing heavy
crops for years should be nourished
and stimulated by sprinkling guano
on the surface of the border before
watering it. This, alternately with
the drainage from cow - houses or
stables in a diluted state, will greatly
benefit such Vines. On damp, dull I
days put more or less heat into
the pipes to keep the air moving, and
never shut the houses up closely, \
either by night or day. Owing to the
backwardness of the season, crops in
general may require more fire-heat to
ripen them thoroughly by the end of
September. Take every precaution to
keep flies and wasps from ripe Grapes,
or they will soon disfigure them.
There is no better way than to fix
Hawthorn's netting over the ventilat-
ing openings. Keep a constant look-
out on Vines in all stages, and see that
red - spider does not gain a footing.
There are few better preventives
than a circulation of fresh air night

and day. Remove all lateral growths
from Vines now swelling their crop ;
and in the case of Gros Colman, all lat-
eral leaves may be removed soon after
colouring begins. We have noticed
that all bunches of this Grape well
exposed to light colour the best. In
the case of Vines which may have their
roots deep in the border, a good means
of enticing the roots to the surface is
to remove all surface soil down to the
roots as soon as the crop is cut, and to
replace it with a layer of eight inches
of turfy loam, with a third of horse-
droppings and a sprinkling of bone-
meal. The roots will work up into
this rich fresh soil ; and in the case of
early Vines the roots will continue to
do so in spring, especially if some
warm litter and leaves be applied to
the surface of the border when forcing
commences. Pot-Vines intended for
fruiting early next year should by the
end of this month have their wood
hard and brown, with well-developed
buds. Expose them to the full sun,
and a free circulation of air to carry
on the ripening process to completion.
Remove all attempts at lateral growths ;
and the pots being now crammed full
of roots, see that they do not suffer
for want of water.

Peaches. — One of the greatest evils
in Peach-growing is that of tying in
more young wood than there is ample
room for. Look carefully over all trees,
and where the leaves are crowded, and
shading each other and the wood, do
not hesitate to remove superfluous
shoots. This should especially be seen
to as the crop is gathered from each
tree, so that light and air can play
freely about every bud. Syringe all
trees from which the crop is gathered ;
and if there be any spider about them,
mix a handful of sulphur with the
water. See that all trees swelling off
full crops are well supported with
copious waterings of liquid manure
in dry weather. Look over ripening
crops twice daily in sunny weather,
and gather all fruits that are ready
for table. If to be packed and sent
by rail, do not let the fruit be too
ripe. Expose ripening fruits to the
full sun by pushing aside any leaves
that partially shade them. Continue
to syringe late varieties in cool houses
every fine afternoon, and see that all
such that have their roots in inside
borders are well watered.

I879-]

NOTICES TO CORRESPONDENTS.

391

Figs. —Keep early trees in pots, from
which the second crop is all gathered,
free from insects by frequent syring-
ings. These may now be placed out of
doors in a warm sunny exposure, where
their leaves will not get damaged with
winds. Should they be the least
crowded with wood, remove all the
weaker shoots that is necessary to
regulate and properly thin them.
Trees in borders now swelling their
second crop should be well watered
with guano and dung water : a fresh
top-dressing of fresh manure will also
be of much benefit to them. Keep a
circulation of dry warm air about
those that are ripening, so as to pro-
perly develop the flavour. See, how-
ever, that while this treatment is
carried out, the border does not be-
come too dry. Except where fruit
are ripening, continue to syringe the
trees every fine day at shutting-up
time.

Melons. — Expose ripening fruits as
much as possible to full sun ; and
should the weather be bright, do not
allow the soil to become over-dry and
crack as the ripening process goes on.
Give all plants swelling off their crops
waterings at intervals, and in suffi-
cient amount to prevent the soil from
cracking. Syringe the foliage when
the house is shut up, and give artificial
heat to keep the temperature from
falling below 70° at night. Shut up
in the afternoon early enough to run
the heat up to 85° or 90° for a time.
Impregnate late crops at midday when
the pollen is dry, and do not allow

the plants to become crowded with
young growths.

Cucumbers.— Plants that have been
in bearing since early spring, and that
are somewhat exhausted, should now
be partially cut back, removing all
the oldest growths, and have a top-
dressing of manure and loam in equal
parts put on their roots. Keep them
at 75° at night, and syringe freely
when shut up at 90° on fine afternoons.
Thus treated, they will soon recruit,
and continue to bear till late autumn.
Give plants in full bearing water suf-
ficient to keep them fresh and crisp in
all their parts. Regulate their growths,
and stop at every point. About the
middle of the month is a good time to
sow for winter-bearing plants. It is
desirable to get strong healthy plants
while the days are long, and com-
paratively little artificial heat is re-
quired.

Strawberries in Pots.— These, if
shifted into their fruiting-pots last
month, and have been managed as
directed in last month's calendar, will
grow with great rapidity and vigour
this month if it be bright and w^arm,
and will require to be liberally sup-
plied with water and occasional water-
ings of liquid manure. If they are
crowded in any way, thin them out
and give them more room, so that
they get plenty of light and air about
their leaves. They may be sprinkled
overhead about five o'clock on the
afternoons of warm days. Keep them
clear of weeds and runners.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in ' The Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not for
publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and address
of writer.

2d

302 THE GARDENER. [Aug. 1879.

R. Logan. — Your specimen came in good condition this time. It is Spiraea
laevigata, a aative of Siberia.

S. Bigham. — What you describe is a common enough occurrence in the
Laburnum. We do not know of any satisfactory way of accounting for it.

T. A. Mitciiel. — The Iris-blooms, &c, were all decayed before they reached
us, not having been sent direct to us. We cannot, however, undertake to
name mere varieties.

T. S. K. — We cannot undertake to name Roses, especially when received in
bad condition, as yours were.

E. S. — Your specimen arrived so shrivelled that we could not recognise it,
but suspect it is a Gillardia. We are willing enough to do our best in naming
specimens sent us, but do not profess to be able to name shrivelled morsels of
plants, nor to get any one else to do so.

An Old Subscriber. — The reason of the blistering or curling of your
Peaches and Nectarines is cold and wet. We know of no remedy. If the
season gets warmer they will most likely grow out of it and drop the worst
leaves. To prevent it, cover them with glass and make a better climate for
them.

A. H. — Remove the musk and destroy as many of the borer as you can
find. Large foliage on Vines — as in your case — is not always accompanied
with superior or abundant crops of Grapes. There is, however, no reason why
you should not have good crops. We suspect the roots of your Vines are sink-
ing far from the surface of the border, and that the wood has not been wrell
ripened. If you raise the roots, put them into good soil, not over rich, and
ripen the wood thoroughly ; it will remedy the evil.

A. S. — Grow your Ixias in two parts peat, one part leaf -mould, and one part
sand, and in a cold pit, frame, or greenhouse, near the glass. Sparaxis require
similar treatment.

THE

GARDENER

SEPTEMBER 1879.

THE COLDNESS OF THIS SEASON AND NEXT
YEAR'S FRUIT - CROPS.

CCORDING to the verdict of the Scottish Meteorological
Society, the mean temperature of the first six months
of this year has been lower by 5° than any correspond-
ing period of any year since 1763. So that it is quite
safe to say that no gardener living has had to contend with such
clouded skies and low temperature. It is very remarkable that the
highest temperature registered here (Nithsdale, Dumfriesshire) for
last July was 71°, while the mean of the maximum daily temperatures
for the month was a fraction over 60°, and June was slightly colder
than July. On the morning of the 10th of August the temperature
fell to 34° in a sparred case four feet from the ground, and on low-lying
grounds the grass was actually crisp with frost.

The exceptional character of the season will, as a matter of course,
leave horticulturists a legacy of exceptionally unfavourable circum-
stances as bearing on next year's crops to contend with and overcome.
Perhaps there is no condition upon which satisfactory crops on all
fruit-bearing plants depend so much as on the perfect ripening of the
wood and buds, from which the future crop must come, and it is thus
a condition which all experienced cultivators strive to attain. Last
year being bright and warm, without any extremes that were calculated
to injure vegetation, the result has been very manifest this year in
the unusual crop of blossom on all flowering trees and shrubs. Un-
happily, however, the fruit harvest — owing to the unfavourable
character of this season — will rank amongst one of the most unsatis-
factory on record. And unless the autumn be one of unusual bright-

2e

394 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

ness and warmth, it is hopeless to expect fruit-bearing plants to
ripen their wood and buds, so that we can look to next season as one
of promise.

Amidst the many failures of this year, the Grape crop is — so far as
we have observed — about the most satisfactory of any, even under
glass. As a rule, all the Vines and Grapes that we have seen are look-
ing well as regards the extent and quality of the crops they are carrying.
This may sound anomalous in the ears of the inexperienced. There
can be no doubt that much of this success depends on the splendid
weather of the latter part of last summer and autumn, which, as has
already been referred to, resulted in the thorough maturation of the
wood and fruit-buds. Indeed, we have been cognisant of cases where
last year's Grapes shanked badly, and did not colour well, notwith-
standing the warm sunshine. The year 1877 was not at all a favour-
able season for the Vine, in so far as the following year's crop was
concerned, and in many cases the bunches were loose, the footstalks
of the berries weak and long, and the heat of 1878 hurried the crops
to maturity — and all these are calculated to precipitate shanking
where there is a predisposition to that evil. The same Vines have this
year brought heavy crops of large but compact bunches to maturity
without any shanking, in spite of the want of sun and excessive rain-
fall. The often reiterated lesson of well-ripened wood is, to our mind,
not the only lesson which such an occurrence enforces. It points also
to the fact that, as a rule, strong Vines in well-prepared borders do
not get nearly enough of water in summers that are dry and hot. The
better and more carefully borders are prepared — as to drainage, &c. —
the more forcibly does this apply ; and if this exceptional season teaches
one lesson more emphatically than another, it is that Vines under other
conditions the most favourable rarely get as much water as is good for
them in dry, hot summers — of course, always provided there is no
chance of stagnant water about the borders. These hints are thrown
out by the way, and we think our experienced readers will endorse
them.

The important task then for this autumn is for cultivators to do
everything that lies in their power to ripen the wood of not only Vines
but Peaches, Figs, and all fruit-bearing plants, as well as possible.
Outdoor fruits are comparatively beyond the pale of artificial appliances
to forward this end. Much, however, can be done to ripen the wood
of Vines, Peaches, &c, that are under glass. As a rule, the greatest
danger of immaturity is in the case of vigorous Vines and other trees
from which the crops are all gathered this month. Earlier trees get a
longer season, and usually ripen more completely. On the other hand,
later Vines, on which Grapes hang through the winter months, have so
much fire-heat applied for the preservation of the crop, that the wood
also reaps the benefit of a circulation of dry, warm air. Strong Vines,
from which the Grapes are cut this and next month, are more frequently

1879.] LUCULIA GRATISSIMA. 395

left to take their chance of what ripening the season accomplishes
without artificial aid. Experienced growers are not likely to neglect
the use of the means at their command, but it may be necessary to
urge on the inexperienced the absolute necessity that this year exists
to apply fire-heat, and keep up a circulation of dry, warm air about the
wood and foliage for the next month or six weeks, or in fact until the
wood is solid and brown. The character of next year's crops depends
greatly on this : indeed it will give the foundation of the superstructure
of next year's crop, which it is impossible to rear without it. Expe-
rienced men are alive to this necessity this autumn, if ever they were.
In some cases indeed the fuel may be grudged, and gardeners would
do well in such cases to point out to their employers the necessity for
such means, and the consequences of withholding it.

LUCULIA GRATISSIMA.

This is a magnificent evergreen shrub or tree, found growing in great
luxuriance on some of the smaller hills in the Valley of Xepaul,
and generally in rather exposed situations, where it produces its
sweet-scented, delicate, pink-coloured flowers in profusion nearly the
whole year round.

It is surprising how very few places include this grand old plant.
It is only met with occasionally in old-established places where the
glass structures are on a large scale, and in nurserymen's collections.
This ought not to be the case. Considering the merits of the plant
and the easy way in which it can be grown and flowered, one fully ex-
panded truss of flowers being enough to fill a whole house with its
perfume. Cuttings of the young firm shoots, taken off with a heel,
or at the third or fourth joint, and inserted thinly round the edges
of 4-inch pots, in a compost of light loam, peat, and leaf-mould,
with a good addition of sharp sand, made firm, and plunged in a
brisk bottom-heat, strike very freely if covered with a bell-glass.
They must be carefully attended to as regards watering, shading, &c;
and as soon as they are fairly rooted, turn them out of the cutting pots
very cautiously, so as not to break any of the young fibres, and pot
them singly into 3-inch pots in soil composed of equal parts of fibry
peat and light turfy loam, with a liberal addition of silver-sand and
charcoal broken up into small bits and well mixed together.

After potting plunge them in a gentle hotbed, and water them
with water a few degrees warmer than the propagating-bed, to help
to warm the soil in the pots, and shade them from stroDg sun, and
keep them close for a few days until they show signs of animation,
after which the shading can be dispensed with, and the temperature

39G THE GARDENER. [Sept.

and moisture can be nicely balanced by putting on a chink of air -in
the morning, when the thermometer reaches from 55° to 60°, and in-
creasing it gradually, shutting up again early in the afternoon with
plenty of sun heat, giving them a gentle syringe with tepid water
before doing so.

As soon as the roots reach the sides of the pots they should be
shifted into 5- and 6-inch ones, according to the size of the individual
plants. After this shift a hotbed is not a necessity, as the plants will
do well if placed in a warm house on a shelf or other place near the
glass, where they can have abundance of light and air to enable them
to make firm short-jointed growths, which should be pinched and regu-
lated by tying them to small stakes, so as to make sure of a nice bushy
form. We do not give them very large shifts, as they are apt to
grow too rampant, and with too much moisture are sometimes shy to
flower, so a couple of inches at a time is quite enough, the last shift
being into 10- or 12-inch pots, which will be quite large enough to
flower them in if extra large specimens are not wanted. The potting
material should be used in a rougher state for the two last shifts, and
a little bone-meal and some small bits of white sandstone introduced,
and the whole made firm round the ball. The pots must also be well
drained, and not over-watered until the new soil is fairly occupied
with roots, as it is apt to get soured before the roots get at it. To
prevent this, we use plenty of charcoal mixed with the compost for
all classes of plants, and often dress the surface of the pots with
the dust with very beneficial results.

When it is desirable to get up a specimen plant in a limited time,
it is a good plan to prepare a nice border of rich soil in a warm house
or pit, and put out a small pot-plant, where, if all other conditions
are favourable, it will grow luxuriantly, and form a handsome specimen
in much less time than when grown in pots. When lifting it and
potting it, care must be taken not to hurt the roots much, and get as
good a ball of earth as possible by digging well round and in below
it, and syringing the foliage occasionally after potting. Old plants
can also be cut back annually after the flowering period, started into
growth again, and when fairly broken the old ball should be reduced
and a little fresh soil added. A little liquid manure can be used
at intervals to plants in full growth and when flowering, which they
generally do towards the autumn and winter months, if subjected
to a temperature of 50° to 55° by night, with a rise of 10° or 15°
in the daytime. Although this plant is easily grown and flowered
in pots, it nevertheless succeeds better and is more at home when
planted out and grown as a conservatory shrub, or trained to a wall
in a warm greenhouse or intermediate house. In both cases the

i879-] WALKS AND FOOTPATHS. 397

border must be made up for it, and the natural soil taken out to the
depth of 3 feet, and as much or more all round. If the natural
drainage is deficient, begin by puttirjg in a layer of broken bricks, and
over them a thin layer of crocks broken small and covered with a few
turves, or with some of the roughest parts of the compost, which
should be composed of equal parts turfy peat and loam, chopped up
with the spade, with about a sixth part of sharp river or silver sand,
broken charcoal, and good-sized lumps of sandstone, thoroughly mixed
and made firm with the feet, after which put in plants which
have been grown on to some size in pots. In planting, care-
fully remove the crocks from the bottom of the ball, and disentangle
the roots all round with a pointed stick, and place the surface of the
ball so that it will be a little below the level of the surrounding soil,
placing some of the finest mould next to the roots, and make all
firm, after which give a slight watering with tepid water to settle
the soil about the roots. Future operations will consist of watering,
pinching, tying, &c. ; and should greenfly or red- spider put in an
appearance, give a thorough syringing on three consecutive evenings
with a pretty strong mixture of tepid water and soft-soap.

When treated thus and well established, this Luculia forms one of
the most effective and valuable of decorative plants, producing large
heads of very fragrant flowers through the dull months of autumn
and winter. Duxdoxiax.

WALKS AND FOOTPATHS.

It might not be justifiable to make a distinction between a walk and
a footpath as a feature of utility in the garden, still we think there is
or ought to be some distinctive difference, in so far as the construction
is concerned, between say the walks of a kitchen-garden which have
to withstand the wear and tear of traffic, and the footpaths in a
pleasure-ground which are made to be comfortably walked on and
enjoyed. Some walks must be made to be wear-resisting as well as
for comfort ; others for comfort alone. The perfection of a footpath
is one made of grassy turf, tough and dry, and closely shaven ; the
perfection of a walk is perhaps one made of asphalt, and peppered
over with very fine gravel ; but as neither of these pieces of perfec-
tion are always practicable, or possible, or even permissible, the best
attainable must content us. It is remarkable that human beings, of
whatever quality, will decidedly walk on grass in preference to the
smoothest and best-kept walks, so that by the side of a frequented
walk there will always be found more or less of a footpath running

393 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

parallel, unless some obstruction is placed in the way ; and hence also
in every public garden her Majesty's subjects are requested to keep
off the grass, an injunction repugnant to the inclinations of the said
subjects. We prefer also to walk on a Brussels' carpet, rather than
on the most brilliantly polished of marble-floors, because of the com-
fort afforded by the buffer between our feet and the hard floor. It
will be remarked that the footpaths or portions of footpaths least
avoided are those which are soft and elastic without being wet, — the
foot at once responds to the soft comfortable sensation ; but when
a hard harsh surface is encountered, the foot instinctively turns to
the grass. The formation of parallel footpaths is compelled when
the walk is gravelled with a hard material, or where the bottom is
hard and rough, even if blended with fine. Voluntary penance is
said to be wholesome, but few aspire to it.

In making footpaths and walks, it is not necessary to take the soil
out deep, as is often done, and to fill up the space again with rough
materials, with the idea of making the path dry; this is just frustrat-
ing in the very worst way the first object that should be aimed at in
making a comfortable footpath. A deep bottoming of stones or shingle
destroys all elasticity and softness in a footpath, and does not at all
add to its dryness. The line of a footpath can be made thoroughly
dry, so far as draining can do it, and provision can be made for
carrying off the surface water ; but in order to do so, it is not neces-
sary to dig a ditch in the middle of it, and fill in with rubble-stones,
but rather to drain one or both sides and leave the middle intact, with
just sufficient excavation, say 4 inches, on which to lay a thin coat
of fine-sorted gravel, thus preserving as far as possible the elasticity
of the soil underneath the gravel. A walk made on the opposite
principle remains permanently comparatively harsh and uncomfort-
able to walk on, and becomes aggravated in very dry weather. A fact
not generally recognised is, that over-dryness is exceedingly detri-
mental to roads and walks as well as over-wet ; and we have found it
necessary to water the walks of a pleasure-ground to preserve them
from breaking up from excessive treading — just as the water-cart
benefits a road on which there is much driving in dry weather. Even
in the making of walks, where much traffic is expected, deep excava-
tion should be avoided. Macadam depended not on a large quantity
of materials, but on a thin coating carefully laid on after the foun-
dation of the road was built and made thoroughly dry. The most
enjoyable footpaths we ever knew were made over bog-soil, well
drained, levelled, and just a thin coating of fine river gravel over the
surface ; and there seems no reason why bog-soil, where attainable,
should not be substituted for harder material for the bottoming of

1879.] WALKS AND FOOTPATHS. 399

footpaths : it would be the cocoa-fibre mat of the pleasure-ground.
On the modern iron road, the different sensation of the stone sleeper
and the wooden one is at once felt ; or that of a train passing over
Chatmoss, compared with the hard rattle of one passing the rocky
neighbourhood of Penrith. We do not wish to discuss the question
in detail at present how walks should be made ; we only want to show
that something imperfect in their construction, or something very
wrong with their surface, compels people to take to the grass, and so
form the offensive footpath.

The direction which walks and footpaths should take about pleasure-
grounds and parks is a question that should be well considered by
landscape and other gardeners, in first laying out places ; and this, if
not attended to, will be a source of irritation ever after. These are often,
indeed generally, laid down in an arbitrary sort of way, to complete
the symmetry of a plan to be afterwards blotted out or abandoned
and another course substituted. The current of humanity is like
water, difficult to divert from a natural channel. Footpaths are
always an eyesore, especially when they cross fences ; indeed nothing
seems to impede the course of a human footpath. In this respect the
human animal rivals the ant or land-crab : one instance is daily under
our notice, where the offensive line of march crosses a grass plot over
two iron fences, two walks diagonally, a shrubbery, a plantation, a
wall eight feet high with two wires stretched on the top, and finally,
a deep fosse or ditch. It is just Suez or Nicaragua on a small scale
— the path must be made sooner or later. In thus recognising the
footpath as a route for the made walk, we put an end to all stiff for-
malities in the matter of walk-making and in laying out grounds.
A walk must lead to somewhere, and be for some use, and not a mere
streak of gravel on which nobody has any desire to travel. It does
not necessarily require to go straight — very few bye-paths do — but
should rather have a tendency to curve right and left.

If the natural blending of the useful and ornamental were more
generally recognised — always giving the useful the first thought —
there would be fewer troubles with bye-paths. We could mention
almost offhand a dozen lordly places where the dairy and kitchen -
garden produce cannot approach the kitchen without crossing under
the principal windows, and being carried through the pleasure-grounds,
unless a very wide detour is made. In other places the lines of walks
are made to join at long acute angles, where the temptation is irre-
sistible to cut across. Carriage-drives which people are expected to
follow are made to deviate for some view or effective bit of scenery,
and so in the end a bye-path is sure to be made. We could name a
dozen places with enormous expanses of sterile gravel walks leading to

400 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

nowhere and useless, and where a constant war is waged with bye-
paths in the shape of notice-boards, iron hoops, and stumps.

No wonder a taste is growing for the wild garden, the wilderness,
and the woods, with cool and natural footpaths made at a fraction of
the expense required for acres of hard gravel, and infinitely more en-
joyable. The Squire's Gardener.

HERBACEOUS P^EONIAS.

In a season like the present, when the general run of bedding-plants
are at this date (15th July) no bigger, but in many instances actually
smaller, than when they were planted out, certain herbaceous plants
come out in splendid contrast to these draggled denizens of warmer
climes. A very considerable number of herbaceous plants is to be
found in full flower at the present time, bidding defiance to the weather,
bad though it be. Butthemost conspicuous, and certainly themost showy
of all in bloom, now nearly a month behind their time, are the Pseonias
whose name stands at the head of this paper. These stand unrivalled
for effect in the distance ; and really, in such weather as we have ex-
perienced during this strange blending of spring and winter which has
usurped the place of our summer, it becomes a point of some import-
ance to consider and keep in view that flower-garden effects which can
be noted and enjoyed under the protection of a roof are just such as only
could be enjoyed out of doors by none except the most robust; for who,
besides, would dare all the risks of rheumatism or endless colds certain to
attend on exposure to the unseasonable weather which has prevailed all
over the country for months past ? These Pasonias are not only amongst
the best plants for distant effects on the margins of masses of shrubs, but
they are grand and effective objects when viewed by themselves singly
or in masses made up solely of the different sorts that may be drawn
together. They take the highest place amongst the grander types of
herbaceous flowers. Improved as they have been during recent years,
there is a very great variety of beautiful colours, as well as ample form
and size and substance, to be obtained by careful selection from the
lists of raisers and dealers who make a speciality of them. In the
matter of colouring they rival the Rose itself, in so far at least as Hybrid
Perpetuals are concerned. Indeed they present some colours, such as
white, in greater purity than are to be found in any H.P. Rose ; and
nearly every other shade of colour presented by that class of Rose is
splendidly exhibited in one variety or another of the Paaonia. There is
also a very considerable range of duration of the flowering period of
the different varieties : some are early, some late, and some are more
enduring or persistent than others. Many also are little less fragrant
than the Rose itself.

i879-] HERBACEOUS P^ONIAS. 401

The following varieties are among the best and most distinct in
cultivation : —

P. alba sulphurea.—Ture white, the base of the petals sulphur-yellow,
very fine double flowers, and a profuse bloomer.

P. Alice de Julvecourt. — Beautifully formed, very double; splendid
flowers, with pink guard-petals, the centre ones white, shaded with
blush and flaked with crimson.

P. Ambroise Verschaffelt. — Large, brilliant, purple-red flowers, finely
formed ; a very free bloomer.

P. atrosanguinea.— Splendid bright crimson, flushed with purple;
one of the most distinct and showy of the dark-coloured sorts.

P. Augustin Dhour. — Dark purplish -rose, enormous flowers, very
double, and fine in form.

P. candidissima. — Pure white, the hase of central petals primrose,
giving a pale creamy tint to the centre of the flowers ; a very effective
sort.

P. carnea elegans. — Pink of a delicate tint, changing to white ;
splendidly-formed large flowers.

P. Dr Bretonneau. — Grand petals, rich satiny rose, central ones
bright lustrous pink, edged with a lighter shade of the same colour
and white.

P. Etandard du Grand Homme. — Brilliant purple -rose, enormous
flowers, of beautiful form, and very double.

P. Francois Ortegat. — A semi-double of very effective character, pur-
plish crimson, with the yellow anthers in centre very conspicuous.

P. globosa. — Guard petals deep pink, centre chamois.

P. Henry Demay. — Bright purplish-crimson, a very double and free-
blooming sort.

P. Isabella Karlitzhy. — Warm purplish-rose, enormous double flowers
of excellent form.

P. Jeanne d'Arc. — Outer petals rosy pink, centre ones white, a very
free flower.

P. Leonie. — Delicate peach, finely-formed double flowers.

P. Madame Calot.— Guard-petals white suffused with rose, centre
ones pure white, large finely -formed flowers, and an abundant
bloomer.

P. Madame Chauney. — Fine satin rose, shading at the edges to lighter
rose ; a very double, finely-formed flower, and an abundant bloomer.

P. Madame Serret. — Creamy white, flushed with chamois ; finely-
formed, very double flowers.

P. Marquise de Lory. — Petals pure white, shading into delicate
primrose at the base, somewhat flaked with carmine ; flowers very
large, double, and of fine form.

P. Modeste Guerin. — Outer petals rich purple-rose, centre ones bright
deep rose, flowers splendid in size and form ; a very free bloomer.

P. Mons. Rousselon. — A very distinct and beautiful variety, with

402 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

deep pink outer petals, the inner ones more delicate or paler in colour,
flaked with carmine.

P. nivea plenissima. — A very fine pure-white variety, flowers extra
large and very double.

P. officinalis rubra-plena. — One of the oldest but yet one of the best
in its particular colour, flowers very large, deep crimson, well formed,
and early.

P. Rosamond. — Rose-pink, very bright, and shaded to delicate rose
on the margin of petals ; a very double, free-blooming, fine variety.

P. Souvenir oVAuguste Miellez, — A very distinct and beautiful variety ;
one of the most effective and showy ; rich crimson-purple, very large
flowers, a free and late bloomer, which will help to prolong the season
of this useful genus of flower.

P. Souvenir deV Exposition Universelle. — Very fine, rich, lustrous rosy-
pink, tinted on margins of petals with white, flowers very large and
double.

P. tenuifolia Jlore-plena. — This is distinct in every respect from any
other Paeony. The foliage is deeply and finely cut into elegant fila-
ments ; habit dwarf and compact ; the flowers very double, medium
sized, compact, and handsome, deep crimson or blood-red.

P. Victoria a" Alma. — Very fine, large, double flowers, rich purplish-
crimson ; a very free bloomer.

P. Whitleji. — A species the blood of which has contributed much to
the improvement of the now very numerous varieties. The flowers are
single, pure white, with a mass of golden-yellow anthers in the centre,
which give a striking and pleasing effect along with the broad white
petals. It is remarkable for its fragrance, and is altogether a very
desirable border plant. W. Sutherland.

HARDY FRUITS-SEPTEMBER.

Trees may be expected to form growths very late this season ; and where
ground is rich and deep, and not very firm, the evil will be increased. The
growths should be stopped in a systematic manner, going over first and shorten-
ing all the strong sappy shoots : in due time the weaker ones may be topped,
and many cut out to let in light and air. The form of the trees should at all
times have due consideration ; and where there is a weak or thin side, wood
should be left accordingly to fill up. Pyramids are more difficult than most
other forms to have in proper shape without crowding. The leading shoot
may be shortened less than the side ones ; they might be left in the proportion
of about 1^ foot for leaders and 9 inches for side growth ; and when the leaves
are off they can be cut to proper forms. Old-established trees require less care
in this way; allowing a few shoots to take the place of older ones to be cut
out by and by is a good and safe practice. But where growth is going on now as
it should have done in June it is well to examine the roots : at one side lift a
goodly portion, shortening back gross ones, and those that are going down-
ward should be cut off cleanly. Place healthy brick rubbish below the tree,

1879.] HARDY FRUITS. 403

ramming it very firm. If the tree should continue to make gross wood after
this operation, the other side should be treated in a similar manner. "While
advising this, we abhor the barbarous method of cutting with a spade round
the tree, removing all and sundry roots which come in the way. If any roots
are split and peeled, they should be cut clean over. In shallow and sandy
soil it may be necessary to mulch after the roots have been lifted. There
should be no bending or twisting of roots, otherwise suckers may be started,
and they are not easily mastered when from the roots. All suckers should be
carefully kept off fruit-trees, cutting them clean to the main roots. Whatever
is left undone, as to training in young wood on walls and fences, no time
should be lost, so that the autumn sun and air may have full power over the
wood ; this is particularly applicable to Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, and
Apricots. Whatever may be said regarding the dying-off of the latter, and
Morello Cherries, we are of opinion that it arises from being obliged to use the
knife freely, by absence of space for the trees to develop themselves according
to root action, consequently trees do not mature their growth ; they start early,
and spring frosts paralyse them, and dead limbs are soon plentiful. In the
great Apricot districts in Oxfordshire, and elsewhere, excellent Apricots may
be seen growing in every aspect, trained to old stables, dwelling-houses, sheds,
and piggeries. Seldom are these trees to be found unhealthy, and so far as skill
and care are taken with their training and pruning, there is simply none. The
roots may be found among solid beds of stones, lime, and brick rubbish.
When planting these trees, abundance of old lime rubbish may be rammed in
the bottoms of the holes, and a goodly mixture of this added to the soil : the
whole should be a solid bottom when the tree is planted. After the trees are
planted a year or two, the system of lifting must be skillfully adopted. When
the roots are allowed to run into cold wet clay, dying-off branches may be ex-
pected. The same principle applies to Gooseberry-bushes ; they often die off
at their collars. It may be found that in such cases the roots at bottom are
starving in cold or very poor soil, while those on the surface are in extra rich
soil. They may be lifted and replanted, on ground well trenched, spreading
the roots out, evenly covering them with 6 or 8 inches of soil, then carefully
mulching them. After this treatment, which may be done in September, or
any time between autumn and spring, they will make small wood, and become
very fruitful.

Figs should be freely exposed to sun ; after such a late season they are not
likely to ripen readily ; the shoots should be kept into the wall thinly. Too
often the object of fruiting is defeated by crowding in thickly luxuriant growths,
which never become matured, and consequently bear no fruit worthy of con-
sideration. Rasps should be thin, and freed from the wood which has supplied
fruit, leaving from three to five or six shoots to a stool : they require temporary
ties till the proper time of renewing stakes or wires, according to the method
of training them. Strawberries may be planted. There are so many ways of
being successful with them, oue can scarcely add a suggestion ; but whatever
plan is adopted, good growers admit that thorough trenching and manuring is
of primary consideration. Off-sets from old plants may meet a difficulty when
runners are scarce. Young plants planted in a triangular form of three
together is an old plan, but one not to be despised. Plants which have been
forced, and have not been too much neglected, answer every requirement.

In the Orchard-house there will not be a great many fruits left, except the
kinds which are kept for special late purposes. Thames Bank Peach, Prin-
cess of Wales, and Late Admirable, may not be ripe for some time. Coe's Late

404 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

Red and Golden Drop Plums are kept late with other things. "Wasps and birds
may yet be troublesome : guard against them. Lifting trees planted out to keep
them dwarf, pinching, and syringing, require special attention. M. T.

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
The Chinese Primula.

Among the many useful decorative greenhouse plants, the Chinese
Primula holds a prominent place ; and it is indispensable among the
dwarf section of flowering plants, not only on account of the time of year
at which it naturally flowers, but also for its floriferous qualities, and for
the long time which it continues in bloom. It is also one of the most
useful subjects for room decoration, as it stands such work better than
most plants, and is a very suitable plant for the breakfast-table, or for
a small dinner-table ; while for conservatory decoration, nothing looks
more beautiful than a wire stand filled with the scarlet and white
varieties mixed, and a few pots of Lobelia to hang over the edges of
the basket.

The Chinese Primula has been wonderfully improved of late years,
both as regards colour, size, and substance of flower, some of the strains
sold by our leading seedsmen being wonderfully fine.

The Chinese Primula has to be raised entirely from seed ; the time
of sowing will depend upon the time when they are wanted to bloom.
For autumn and winter flowering the seed should be sown in the begin-
ning of February ; a well-drained pan should be used with some roughish
soil over the crocks, two inches of the top being filled with leaf-mould
sifted, some peat-soil rubbed through a fine sieve, and a good dash of
silver sand added. Have the surface of the soil levelled, and then scatter
the seeds thinly ; shake a little of the soil over the seed through a fine
sieve, and water through a very fine rose ; then cover the pan with a
piece of glass, and set it where there will be a temperature of about
65° kept up : an early vinery suits very well. The young plants are
very impatient of too much moisture, so as soon as they are wTell
brairded the glass must be tilted up at one side, and the pan set near the
light in an airy part of the house. The young plants must be pricked
off singly into thumb-pots as soon as they have made two rough leaves,
using the same compost with the addition of a small modicum of loam ;
set them in a warm pit, and shade slightly for a few days until they
get hold of the soil, when shading may be dispensed with. As soon
as the pots are moderately well filled with roots, shift into 4-inch pots,
using the soil in a somewhat rougher state, and about equal parts of
loam, peat, and leaf-mould, and a good quantity of silver sand, to keep
all open. The plants may soon require a little support, which may be
given by means of three little pieces of sticks thrust into the soil close

i879-] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 405

to the neck of the plant. They ought always to be grown near the
glass, however, and a free circulation of air about them will tend
to make them sturdy and independent of support — though, of course,
favourable opportunities for giving air must be taken advantage of.
After the middle of May they may be inured to a lower temperature,
and about the end of June they may be set in a cool pit, or in a cold
frame set on a bed of ashes, and liberally aired through the day, but
the lights kept on at night. Some of the stronger plants may be shifted
into 6-inch pots, which is quite large enough to flower them in, though
some shift them into 8-inch pots. Still, as good plants can be grown in
the smaller pots, and they are easier managed, some of them should be
retained in the smaller pots : they will bloom earlier, and may be suit-
able where 6 -inch pots would prove too large for the purpose. They
must be carefully watered after being shifted into the larger pots, and
kept somewhat close for a few days, and shaded from bright sunshine,
till they take with the shift, after which they may be aired liberally.

The best batch of Primulas we ever grew, and as good as we have
ever seen, was grown in a cool pit, set on a shelf against the back wall
and close under the ventilation, which was the old system of sliding
sashes. The plants throve amazingly in this situation, and were very
sturdy as a matter of course ; and the flowers, for size and depth of
colour, were the admiration of all who saw them. After the pots are
pretty well filled with roots, they will be benefited with an occasional
dose of clear soot-water : this makes an excellent manure, and puts a nice
healthy green appearance on the foliage such as few other things in the
way of liquid manure can accomplish, It is also a safe manure to use,
if nothing but the clear water be made use of, after having had the
soot steeped for, say, four-and-twenty hours or so. The plants may
remain in the cold frame or pit until about the beginning of October,
when they should be removed to a warmer situation, say a warm green-
house. The nights during the month of October get rather raw and
cold for them to stand out longer with safety, as the leaves might turn
yellow and drop off. A temperature of about 50° will be amply suffi-
cient for them now, however, and about 5° more through the month of
November, and onwards during the time they are in flower.

A pinch of seed should also be sown about the beginning of June,
proceeding in the same way as described above : the glass which covers
the pan may be shaded slightly until the seed vegetates, when the
shading should be removed and the glass tilted up. When the young
seedlings are ready for potting off, let them be put into small pots ; and
when they have got established, they may be grown on in a close frame
or pit through the summer months, and this will make them nice and
hardy, and able to stand over the winter well. They will require to
be shifted into larger pots some time during August, and we do not
advocate a larger size of pot than 4 or 5 inches for this batch. They
will bloom during the spring months, and prove very useful.

406 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

These plants will flower again during the autumn, if they are taken
care of. Pick all the flower-stems off, and shift them into C-inch pots,
and grow them on in a little heat until June, when they will do in a
cool pit or frame, as described above. Though the flowers are never so
large as on younger plants, still they may turn in very useful. Where
it is considered desirous, from having an extra good strain of plants,
or other circumstances, to save one's own seed, a few of the best
plants should be set apart for this purpose, — not, as is very often done,
to set them aside out of the way and to partial neglect, but setting
them aside for special treatment — even better treatment than when
grown for flower — keeping them well watered and free from insects,
and assisted to form seed by fertilising the blossoms. This can some-
times be done, and is practised by some, by pulling off a few of the
flowers gently : as the flowers bring the anthers along with them, and
are drawn over the stigma, a portion of the pollen may happen to come
in contact with them, thus securing fertilisation. However, we consider
this a very barbarous mode of procedure, as no doubt all the parts of
the flower are intended to perform their part in maturing the seed.

J. G., W.

OENAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS.

COTONEASTER (THE COTONEASTER).

The genus Cotoneaster is composed of a goodly number of hardy
evergreen, sub-evergreen, and deciduous low-growing trees and shrubs
very diverse in general appearance. They are found distributed over
Europe, Asia, and America ; and several of the species have been long
cultivated in this country, and are still extensively used in the adorn-
ment of our gardens and pleasure-grounds. Few shrubs or trees
adapt themselves with greater facility to almost every variety of soil,
if dry ; and they are found to thrive in poor, gravelly, or sandy ground
where it would be difficult to induce other plants of their character
to grow. Though most of the sorts are perfectly hardy, they should
always be planted in situations sheltered from the full force of
violent winds.

C. frigida {the frigid Cotoneaster). — This is a sub-evergreen, or in
mild winters and in sheltered localities an evergreen, tree of about
20 feet in height, indigenous to high mountains in Northern Nepal,
from whence it was first introduced into this country in 1824. The
leaves are of an elliptic form, tipped with, a small spine, crenulated,
of a dark shiny-green on the upper surface, and lighter below. The
branchlets and under sides of the leaves are covered with a minute
wool while young. The flowers are pure white, small individually,
but being produced very abundantly in terminal panicles, they pro-

1879.] ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS. 407

duce a fine effect when in full perfection, which is usually early in
May. The small bright-crimson berries are ripe in September, and
hang on the tree till winter, and sometimes till spring. It is here
a vigorous - growing, very hardy tree, and from its fine foliage and
showy flowers and fruit, very desirable for planting either in groups
or singly in parks, shrubberies, or the margins of woods.

C. affinis (the allied Gotoneaster). — So named from its close affinity
to C. frigida, of which species some writers regard it as merely a
variety. It is a sub-evergreen or evergreen tree of from 15 to 20
feet in height, introduced from Chittaong, Nepal, in 1828. The
leaves are ovate, tipped with a small spine, bright green above, and
woolly beneath. The flowers and fruit are almost identical with the
preceding species, appearing about the same time, the berries hang-
ing on the tree, and being very ornamental many months after ripen-
ing. It is an exceedingly interesting tree, well worthy of attention
on the part of those engaged in decorative planting, its distinct ap-
pearance giving quite a character to groups of low-growing trees or
tall shrubs.

C. Simonsii (Simon's Cotoneaster). — This is a sub-evergreen shrub
of from 5 to 8 feet in height, introduced from Khasya, in Nepal, in
1850. The leaves are oblong acute, dark green above, lighter be-
neath. The flowers are white, appearing in May. They are followed
by a plentiful crop of bright-scarlet berries, which ripen in Septem-
ber, and remain on the branches during the greater part of the winter.
It is a remarkably hardy, ornamental shrub, certainly one of the most
attractive of the genus, in most seasons truly evergreen ; and not only
effective in the open shrubbery, but very suitable for covering walls
or house fronts — its beautiful scarlet berries rivalling in beauty those
of the well-known Pyracantha. It is also found to make a neat,
close garden-hedge, standing the knife well — a purpose for which it
might be, with advantage, more extensively used.

C. microphylla (the small-leaved Cotoneaster). — This is a prostrate
evergreen shrub, with long wiry stems, spreading over many feet
when allowed full scope, but seldom rising above 2 or 3 feet. It is
a native of Nepal, where it is found on the rocky slopes of mountains.
It was introduced in 1824. The leaves are small, oblong, of a thick
leathery texture, dark green above, and slightly pubescent beneath.
The flowers are white, similar in appearance to those of the Haw-
thorn ; they appear in May or June, and are succeeded with scarlet
berries, which ripen in August, and remain on all the winter. Apart
from its value for planting as a single specimen on a lawn, where it
soon forms a compact, cushion-like specimen, it is one of the most
useful of plants for a low wall, the dense, full foliage, twiggy branches,

403 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

and bright berries in winter rendering it a very pleasing object. It
is, moreover, a valuable rockery plant, and may be introduced with
the best effect into any situation where a trailing evergreen shrub is
desirable.

C. thymifolia (the Thyme-leafed Cotoneaster). — Another prostrate
evergreen species from Nepal, from whence it was first sent home by
Dr Royle in 1 850. The leaves are much smaller than those of micro-
phylla, about \ of an inch long, obovate-oblong in form, shining
dark green above, and silvery white beneath. The flowers are small,
pinkish, appearing in May, and followed by bright-crimson berries,
ripe in August. This is a very beautiful little shrub, perfectly hardy,
and admirably suited for planting on rockeries. It might be utilised
as an edging in the flower-garden, as it has all the closeness of habit
which renders the dwarf box so useful, with an appearance quite dis-
tinct from, and equally handsome with, that well-known plant.

Hugh Eraser.

THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN.

LEEKS, ONIONS, GARLIC, AND OTHER ALLIACEOUS PLANTS.

Leeks should be well grown or not attenij)ted at all, for nothing is
more unsatisfactory than ill-grown Leeks, while well-grown ones are
invaluable to the owner of a small garden who wishes to make the
most of it. To have them in the best condition possible, the ground
to which they are to be finally transplanted should be prepared in
winter by deep digging and very liberal manuring. Indeed, if the
soil be thin and light, one-third of the whole body should consist of
rich cow-manure, and if possible the whole ground should be soaked
during frosty weather with cow-urine or other manure-water. The
difference between the produce of land so prepared and land prepared
in the ordinary way will more than pay for the extra work and
expense, and the ground will be left in first-rate condition for Cauli-
flowers the succeeding season. Very much depends also on the
raising of plants early enough, and the warmest position and richest
soil should be chosen for the purpose of raising plants on, avoiding
the too common error of sowing the seed thickly : thin sowings give
by far the finest plants. It is best, if possible, to sow them under
protection, such as a cold frame or a hand-light affords. As soon as
the stems attain the thickness of an ordinary pencil, they should be
transplanted. The usual way adopted by amateurs is to leave them
where they are sown, but the produce under that system is very
inferior. Supposing ground to have been prepared during winter, as

1879.] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 409

recommended, it will be advisable to break it up finely six or eight
inches deep with a fork, to make it loose and open. In planting, stretch
the line where the row is intended to be, and thrust the dibble down
to the depth of six or seven inches, and just drop a plant in the hole
and leave it there. Do not fill in the hole, or you may put the earth
into the centre of the plants, which would spoil them. Enough earth
will fall into the hole of its own accord. Allow the plants from a
foot to eighteen inches between the rows, and from four to eight
inches between the plants in the row, according to the richness of the
soil and the strength of the plants. In hot, dry weather, a good
soaking of water with a little manure of some kind in it will help
them wonderfully ; but whether dry or not, manure-water should
always be given, as it makes a great difference on the crop. There is
nothing to surpass cow-urine for this purpose, well diluted with
water, or better, the drainage of the house. Indeed, the last by itself
is worth a good deal for the purpose of stimulating this crop, as well
as many others. Frequent stirring of the soil by means of a hoe will
help them much, and will destroy weeds.

To grow Leeks for exhibition, sow seeds of a favourite strain about
the beginning of February (not sooner, or they will run to seed),
under glass in a stove, a vinery, hotbed, or other similar place. Grow
them on in pots in rich soil, and harden off carefully, finally trans-
planting them to a rich piece of ground about the end of May, put-
ting them down a foot or so in the soil, and keeping the soil from
reaching their centres by means of funnels made of stiff paper, or
such like. The stems " draw " to the surface in a week or two, when
the funnels may be removed. Floodings of manure- water at intervals
are also given, and by such means wonderfully firm Leeks are grown,
and fit for exhibition by August.

Onions. — For the earliest supply, sow from the 1st to the 20th of
August, according to locality, on moderately rich, firm soil. Some
people sow in beds, but we prefer to sow them in a sheltered spot in
rows one foot apart, because they are much more easily kept free from
weeds when thus sown than when in beds, as the hoe can be worked
between the rows, while that is impracticable in beds. Moreover,
the stirring late in autumn and during spells of fine weather in winter
and spring tends to keep the soil in a dry healthy state, which is of
great benefit to the plants. Sow thinly, so that the plants may stand
clear of each other after they are up. If they are clear of each other
they will not require to be thinned till spring, when the thinnings
may be transplanted in rich soil, where they will generally grow to a
large size. They can be finally thinned further on in the season,
when the thinnings will prove useful in the kitchen. These autumn-

2 F

410 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

sown Onions do not generally keep so well over winter as the spring-
sown ones, and are considered coarser, but they come in before
spring-sown ones ; and on some soils where the grub is troublesome, it
often happens that the autumn-sown ones are the only Onions which
come to perfection. For spring-sown ones the ground should be pre-
pared during winter as advised for Leeks. A rich well-worked soil
is necessary to the best results, and on this account many gardeners
grow their Onions on the same ground year after year, with better
results than they can attain on the rotation principles. The ground,
in digging, should be left rough, and levelled with the Dutch-hoe
early in spring. We prefer having ours in by the end of February
or beginning of March ; but it is better to be guided by the condition
of the soil than by any dates. We have found that the crop is materi-
ally benefited by a slight dressing of soot and wood-ashes hoed into
the surface at sowing time, and it is, at the same time, the best pre-
ventive of the maggot that we know of. A dressing of soot after the
plants are well up — say in June — should be given for the same pur-
pose, but a showery time should be chosen for this, so that the adher-
ing particles of soot may be washed off the leaves. Sow the seed as
advised for those sown in autumn, but make sure that the ground is
level before drawing the drills, or the seed will be apt to be raked
out when the ground is finished off. Draw the drills about an inch
deep, and cover regularly. Should the soil be of a loose sandy nature,
a light tread will prove beneficial, otherwise the soil will be made
firm enough by the treading necessary when hoeing and levelling the
ground, and sowing and covering the seed, &c. A firm heavy soil
gives the best results. In thinning them out, give them from two to
three inches, unless the crop is likely to be all the finer ; but moder-
ate, well-ripened bulbs keep best, and are generally preferred. In
wet seasons or late localities a difficulty will frequently be experienced
in getting the bulbs properly matured. The ripening process may be
accelerated by going over them by the end of August, and twisting
their neck or laying them over. By the middle of September they
should be pulled up, and spread in the full sun on a clean dry bottom.
A good place is a frame, pit, or other glass structure which contains
no plants requiring water, where they can be spread on a dry bottom
in the full sun ; but in ordinary seasons they may be matured by
hanging them up in the sun in nets, removing them indoors at night.
After they are thoroughly dry they should be divested of all husks,
&c, and be stored for the winter in some cool, dry place, where they
are safe from frost. Turn them occasionally during winter, and re-
move decaying ones. The best keepers are Blood Red and James's
Keeping.

1879.] FRUIT CULTURE. 411

Shallots are often grown in cottage-gardens, and frequently do very
well where Onions are of very little use. Prepare the ground as for
Onions, and plant in February or early in March, by pressing them
into the soil so as to just leave the points out and nothing more.
This should be done in drills one inch deep, so that the working of
the ground after they are fairly growing will not cause them to be
left on a ridge. From one foot to fifteen inches between the rows,
and from four to six inches between the sets in the rows, is about the
distance they require, according to the condition of the soil and the
variety, as there are great differences in the habits of the different
kinds. Take up and dry the tubers after the foliage becomes yellow,
and store them as advised for Onions. They are also grown from seed
treated like Onions. Small Onions, too small for use, may be planted
and treated in the same way ; and if care be taken to remove the
flower-stems as they shoot for seed, the result will be a crop of large
Onions. Indeed we have seen Onions sown thickly on poor ground,
about the month of May, for the purpose of obtaining large Onions
when they could not be secured otherwise.

Garlic requires almost similar treatment to Shallots, and the direc-
tions given above will serve for this crop also. The same may be
said of Rocambole, which is, however, very seldom grown. For the
cultivation of Chives, see the article on Salads in the number of ' The
Gardener ' for June. These are all the alliaceous plants in general
cultivation. Gardener.

FRUIT CULTURE.

As it is generally admitted that there are always two sides to a question,
I suppose I may crave space to answer the criticism of your corre-
spondent J. S. W., who has given us a rather lengthy discourse on fruit
culture, consisting chiefly of short paragraphs upon the practice of dis-
tinguished gardeners, which is already matter of horticultural history.
The extracts quoted from the ' Gardeners' Chronicle ' have certainly
emanated from my pen, and they convey generally my candid opinion
of certain scribes who, I suspect, do not persevere in the cultivation of
certain varieties of fruit, and who, not having succeeded themselves,
have the courage to condemn them on theoretical grounds, while in-
ferior kinds are lauded to the skies. This I consider to be the misfor-
tune of these writers — not my fault ; although I regret, on personal
grounds, that anything that I have written should hurt the tender
susceptibilities of your correspondent ! I will endeavour to take the
points raised by J. S. W. seriatim, and I hope to be able to cause him to
reflect upon the instability of a usually retentive memory. The question

412 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

between us is as to the merits of Black Prince as a forcing Strawberry,
and now for the proof which is adduced in support of its merits.

We are informed by J. S. W. that he has sold Black Prince in the
month of April, in Manchester, at twenty-five shillings a pound, but
observe he does not say what time in the month of April, nor is there
any account of the weight of fruit gathered from any given number of
plants ! All we know is, that J. S. W. received twenty-five shillings
for a pound of Strawberries some time or other in some month of April,
and we are asked to accept this statement unsupported by a tittle of
other evidence of any practical value as a favourable recommendation
of Black Prince ! This proof need only be touched by the finger of
sound reasoning, and, like other bubbles, it evaporates quickly into thin
air. I have been offered two guineas for a pound of Strawberries in
the month of April, and could have had any price that 1 liked at other
times, had I been selling our fruit, for Strawberries for wedding-break-
fasts, and other such occasions ; and I daresay J. S. W. could have
had the same if there were a famine in the market. But we will assume
for sake of argument that Black Prince would bring the same price per
pound — which we know it would not — as Due de Malakoff or Under-
bill's Sir Harry. Who that knows the size and quantity of fruit that
the two latter will produce would ever think of forcing Black Prince,
when three times the weight of fruit, four times the size, and of far
superior appearance, may be had from the same space 1 Just fancy
J. S. W.'s Black Prince staged alongside such pots of fruit of the kinds
I have mentioned, as I have seen time upon time, and there is an end
of the poor Prince for the present generation. Shakespeare says —

" Let's teach ourselves that honourable stop,
Not to outsport discretion."

The next point we have to discuss is the merit of Sir Charles Napier
as a forcing and dessert variety, and here I must borrow a leaf out of
J. S. W.'s book, and quote a short extract from ' The Garden ' of May
24th of the present year, at page 420, where J. S. W. describes Sir
Charles as being a second or third rate kind, of vigorous constitution.
Now the actual fact is just the reverse, and I regard this extraordinary
statement as the most cogent and conclusive evidence that your corre-
spondent is debating upon purely theoretical grounds with regard to
this particular variety. Sir Charles Napier is one of the most tender
Strawberries grown, notwithstanding that it is a prolific bearer under
good cultivation.

It was the only variety under my charge last winter that required
extra protection from the severity of the weather, and it was the only
variety out of doors that was killed to the ground, although it was
planted on a sloping dry bank of light well-drained soil, and this has
been my experience of it for seven years. It is also a difficult variety
to force well : the ordinary conditions applied in Strawberry forcing

1879.] FRUIT CULTURE. 413

would ruin it in a week. I am of course writing of superior cultiva-
tion in pots, which does not by any means embrace the common run of
everyday practice, where people are thankful for a few mediocre fruits,
and write about them with as much apparent sincerity as if they were
of first-rate quality and finish.

I have now to pass on to the most amusing part of our subject,
where J. S. W. says I have nothing to show for the practice I advo-
cate. Well, perhaps not, but we will see by-and-by. Your corre-
spondent says he has seen our best effort in Strawberry forcing, and
while admitting that it was good, still it was no better than our
neighbours', and certainly not so fine as many examples he has seen
by other growers. This piece of information evidently refers to the
fruit exhibited last year at Leeds, and I have no reason to complain
of my success at Leeds. I had two dishes of Strawberries there,
one of which, " a seedling," was " highly commended " by the judges,
of whom one, upon his own account, is an authority on Straw-
berries.

I intend sending this seedling out by-and-by, and I hope J. S. W.
will be pleased to accept a few runners as a memento of my visit to
Leeds. The " curious " part of the business is, however, that my first-
prize dish was Sir Charles Napier — by the way a " third-rate kind " —
and J. S. W. was one of the judges. Now, according to J. S. W., the
variety in the first place is a " third-rate kind," and in the next it is
said to be " not so good " as other examples, and yet it is good enough
to win the first prize by the very person who seeks to condemn it.

The winning dish was set side by side with British Queen, Presi-
dent, Sir Joseph Paxton, and Vicomtesse de Thury ; and a few weeks
previously I gained first prize for the same variety at Manchester
in company with four different kinds, including President and Vicom-
tesse de Thury, — so it is evident that Sir Charles Napier is not such
a bad thing, when well done, after all. I may also add, that Sir
Charles was grown by special request of my late employer, for most
of the principal parties during the London season, which, I suppose,
may be taken as a little additional proof of its merit as a dessert fruit.

All the forced Strawberries at Otterspool were grown as if for
exhibition during my time, but whether upon this solitary occasion
J. S. W. saw our best effort is not for me to say — only my experience
was, that the very hot weather of 1878 in the month of June was
very trying, and was not the most favourable time for Strawberry
forcing.

With respect to my mode of taking runners, I find J. S. W. has
mixed things up in a bewildering fashion, and I will therefore detail
my own practice in a few brief words, and give my reasons at the
same time. I suppose it will be admitted that no labour is lost
that tends to high cultivation in any department of horticulture ; and
if this be so, the object of taking runners for forcing from young plants

414 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

will be manifest to all good cultivators. At present we have a large
stock of runners in small pots ; the best are potted up for forcing, and
the next best are planted out in the open quarters for fruiting next
year, the remainder being retained for supplying runners for next year's
stock to be grown in pots. The short time their roots are confined
in the small pots causes them to form a fine plump crown, and they
consequently yield a good supply of extra large fruit the following
year. That portion of the stock which is intended for supplying
runners is planted in two zig-zag lines along the front of any spare
border which has been enriched with good soil and manure ; and
these plants, for the same reason above given, produce early runners
the following season. The advantages are twofold, and in a season
like the present, in late localities especially, cannot be overestimated,
on account of their furnishing runners so much earlier than old
plants. The runners, too, are of the finest description, being fully
exposed to sun and air from the start, and are never drawn up, as
they are when taken from between rows of old plants.

The crops of fruit are not trampled upon by those who layer the
runners ; and I find that a couple of smart youths can lay more runners
in one day, when the plants are conveniently situated, than they could
otherwise do in three.

The only extra labour involved in this work is that the plants are put
into small pots, instead of being planted out later in the autumn, and
the result is a fine crop of fruit in the one case, and a crop of healthy
young plants for forcing purposes in the other.

J. S. W. says I have nothing to show for my labour, while I think
it would be a waste of time for me to draw a comparison between a
mere written assertion and the results of my practice, which I cannot
for obvious reasons further refer to. There is mere assumption against
well-known hard facts.

We now come to the Vine question, and I find J. S. W. assumes a
more confident tone on the question of Vine leaves. It is curious —
indeed amusing — to follow the freaks of your erratic correspondent
in his horticultural controversies. Not long ago I was " called over
the coals" for attributing to Mr W. Thomson a system of raising Vines
from eyes, of which J. S. W. claims to be the author ; but im-
mediately the chill wind of adversity blows across his path, we
find him, as if by instinct, wending his way back to Dalkeith for
an example of Vine-growing to fling in the face of his opponent. I
believe most people will admit that Mr William Thomson has grown
and can grow Grapes. I have no hesitation in conceding that point.
I have also had the pleasure of knowing Mr Rose personally, and of
seeing his Grapes growing when he was in the heyday of his glory at
Floors. I have further had the opportunity of hearing lectures from
Mr Rose on the subject of Vine-growTing and Vegetable physiology
generally ; but I fail to see the relevancy of these illustrations. Have I

1879] FRUIT CULTURE. 415

disputed that Vines should be in a thoroughly healthy condition of
leaf to produce good Grapes 1 I think not.

The point in dispute was raised in the following way : I observed
by reading in the horticultural press that J. S. W. had sent some
large Vine leaves to London, to be inspected as a proof of extraordinary
Vine-growing. I thought this illustration one-sided altogether, and so
I wrote an article to ' The Gardener,' condemning the practice of send-
ing leaves without the fruit attached as being a proof of superior
cultivation.

I daresay J. S. W., and perhaps others, may think that I am con-
testing this point for the sake of argument ; but such is not the case, for
I am so struck with the condition of some of the Vines here, that I am
thinking (notwithstanding the distance) of sending a sample of wood
and leaves to the Editor, so that he may express his opinion upon them.
The wood and leaves are extraordinary, considering the state of the
roots, and prove conclusively to my mind that many of our preconceived
notions with regard to fruit culture will not, at all events in all cases,
stand good.

J. S. W. admits that there are cases in which big leaves may not
indicate good crops. Then where is the use of sending leaves that are
not accompanied by fruit 1 J. S. W.'s motto is, Get good foliage, — the
larger the better, if matured. Observe, if matured ! The point I con-
test is, the wisdom of growing leaves as big as J. S. W. would seem to
recommend in our dull climate. I am challenged to furnish a single
example of a crop of well-finished Grapes that were not accompanied
by good foliage of proportionately large size. I gladly accept that
challenge, but it must be distinctly understood that my idea of good
foliage does not tally with that of J. S. W. I can honestly aver that
the grand crops of Grapes — prize Grapes — grown by Mr Junnington of
Calderstone Gardens, near Liverpool, Mr Mease of Wyncotte, and Mr
Roberts of the same neighbourhood, and many others, of which those
grown at Manor House, Claughton, Birkenhead, and the Garston Vine-
yard, are notable examples. In all these cases the foliage was clean,
well-developed, and thick to the feel — or leathery, as the common
phrase goes — but in no case were the dimensions of the leaves equal
to that described by J. S. W. in the columns of ' The Garden.'

At the great fruit-show held in Pomona Gardens, Manchester, about
four or five years ago, in the class for eight varieties of Grapes, the
competition between Mr Upjohn of Worsley and Mr Hunter of Lamb-
ton was so close, that there was some difference of opinion as to which
should have been the winning collection, but ultimately Mr Upjohn's
" fine finish " carried the day, notwithstanding the larger bunches ex-
hibited by Mr Hunter. The finest bunches of Gros Colman I have
ever seen exhibited on any table in England were shown at Liverpool,
I think in 1873 or 1874, by Mr Upjohn, and the vines at Worsley do
not carry those Brobdignagian leaves that we are told of by J. S. W.

416 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

I may be wrong in my opinion, but I have the courage to entertain
it, that the Grapes from moderate growth of wood and leaf will always
carry the sway in point of quality ; while the notable characteristics of
J. S. W.'s cultivation will be, generally speaking, big loose bunches,
behind the day in everything except weight. I understand tliat the
grand exhibition of Grapes made by Mr Hunter of Lambton, at Man-
chester, in 1873, as well as on other occasions, was the produce of Vines
with exceptionally small foliage compared to the bunches.

W. Hinds.

A NOTE ON PELARGONIUMS.

The day of the Pelargonium is again coming round. Though it has
always obtained a place in gardens, yet full justice has been done
to its requirements only in rare instances ; but during these last
few years the London market-growers have taken the plant in
hand to some purpose, have produced a new break or strain quite
distinct from either the " show " or " fancy " sections, and to which
the distinctive appellation of " decorative " has been given. I have
not been so much taken with anything in the way of " novelties "
for some time as I was this season with plants of these. These
consisted of specimens between 4 and 5 feet in circumference, natu-
rally grown bushy, and one mass of developed trusses and trusses
yet to open. The pots were between 4 and 5 inches in diameter.
The best of the sorts were Duchess of Bedford, Maid of Kent, and
Mermerus. The raiser of these has other kinds, of which stock
is being propagated, said to be improvements on these. It is not
difficult to foresee in a few years that this class of Pelargoniums will
hold one of the highest places as summer decorative plants. But
meanwhile the older and universally known " show " kinds have
undergone great improvements of late years — the better form, size,
and colour of flower in these having the advantage of this newer
section. These can be successfully cultivated in small pots also —
in fact it is the way to grow them, year-old plants in 5-inch pots,
properly grown, making flowering specimens from 12 to 18 inches
across. A few of the best of these are Lord of the Isles, Duke of
Connaught, Sappho, Ambassador, Gipsy, Blue Boy, Victor, Christabel,
Falcon, Warrior.

As a guide to those who may wish to grow these in the way
above pointed out, we will add a few directions. Side growths are
taken off through the summer, say in July, at which period of
the year there is not the slightest difficulty in striking plants.
Where a good number is grown, a frame might with advantage be

1879.] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 417

prepared for the reception of the cuttings, dibhling them in not
over closely, and keeping the lights on and shaded from sun for a
few days ; afterwards the sashes may be dispensed with, and the
plants allowed to make a good start before potting them up. The
compost should be a rich one, say three parts strong loam to one
part of dry cow-dung, with a sprinkling of bone-dust and sand added.
The plants may be put into their blooming-pots at once, making
the drainage sure, and potting firmly. The plants will do well
out of doors until October, when a place near the glass, in a structure
where they will be kept gently growing throughout the winter, will
suit them best. "When the pots get filled with roots, manure-water
will be required at every time of watering, otherwise the plants
will get stunted and stop growing. As spring advances, air will
require to be freely given until the plants are opening their flowers,
when they are taken to the show-house or conservatory. We have
grown Pelargoniums in small pots for years, and can vouch for the
success of the system. Everything, of course, depends on the
unceasing care bestowed on the plants throughout the year, for
the insuring of complete success. R. P. B.

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

Allow me to make a few more remarks on this question, and I am
done with it, as I think the matter may now be safely left in the
hands of Mr Hammond and his opponents. This I shall do as briefly
as possible, making note of only a few extracts taken at random.
These are partly side issues, it is true — still we cannot arrive at any
just conclusion without considering some of these to a certain extent
at least. It will not do to dogmatise on such a matter without show-
ing our reasons for and against the several points raised. Mr Ham-
mond says it is unnecessary to have the flow-pipe on an ascent
throughout its whole length, and he is corroborated by several corre-
spondents from apparatus in actual use. The facts, as placed before
us in these papers, are worth more than any amount of theoretical
rules, some of which, in actual practice, are almost worthless as
evidence.

At p. 325 C. M. says, in answer to Mr Hammond : " The difference
of the specific gravity of the two volumes of water is the consequent
result of expansion, which must be the primary cause." Is heat not
the primary cause, of which expansion is the consequent result 1 This
may appear a quibble, but there is a point in it.

At p. 328 Albion proves the efficiency of the system advocated by

418 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

.Mr Hammond, as does also Mr Iliscocks in his first letter, together
with A. II., p. 269, and these results are given by apparatus in
actual use. In Albion's case (of which an apparatus on the same
principle I once had charge of, and a better working one could not
be), practically speaking, we have no llow-pipe beyond the expan-
sion box.

At p. 375 Mr Makeczie says : "It makes no difference where the
highest point is," and thereby coincides with Mr Hammond. But is
there no waste of motive power in an apparatus fitted on a long slow
gradient, with a gradually decreasing temperature in the body of
water, and consequently an increasing density as compared with
one where the rise is vertical ? And is the friction in both cases the
same1?

At p. 374 he says : " By increasing the quantity (of piping) the
friction increases in greater proportion than the power ; " and at p.
376, " that the pressure depends on depth or height and the density
of the liquid, so that it makes no difference to the motive power,
seeing the friction in both cases must be the same." I draw attention
to these quotations for this reason, that we are discussing a question
of hot water flowing in an apparatus fitted up on a certain principle,
which is quite a different thing from a body of water of the same
temperature throughout, and being raised to a certain height by pres-
sure or gravitation, I shall trespass no further on your space, but
will be content to leave the matter to those who have better oppor-
tunities of carrying it to a successful issue, by proving it unnecessary
to have flow-pipes for hot water on a continuous ascent.

Eobt. Stevens.

Paston, Northumberland.

On p. 373, owing, no doubt, to the iudistinct writing, "Torricel-
liana" appears for Torricelli and. On p. 375 I find that it was
overlooked, in copying the original MS., to alter the words " every
pump and chimney in the country proves," which should have been
" every suction-pump in the country proves." Again, on p. 377, for
" Deschand's Natural Philosophy," read Deschanel's Natural Philo-
sophy ; and for " J,, that of copper-ore, 9.44," read ^ that of copper,
or 9.44.

I have no right to object to your having expunged some irrelevant
matter, the communication was far too long ; but at one particular
place this has led to an appearance of confusion, which I shall be
obliged by your allowing me to explain. At p. 374, after the words

1879 •] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 419

" electric spavk," appear, " 1 have no doubt they will." The complete
sentence was : " This may appear to some to be curious reasoning ;
but all such people I refer to Mr Hammond's letter in your May
number in reply to Mr Inglis, and as he proves his position, while
others only assert, I have no doubt they will be satisfied." The
words as printed have no meaning apart from the context, while the
completed sentence explains itself. A. D. Makenzie.

2 Grove Terrace, July 28, 1879.

In your July issue your correspondent " C. M." says : " It is a well-
known fact that a house situated above the level of the others is the
hottest, from its having a quicker circulation." If he will call
upon us we will show him an exception to this rule. We have here
about 8500 feet of 4-inch pipes attached to two twin Climax boilers,
which, according to the statement of the makers, Messrs Barr & Sug-
den, are capable of heating 2200 feet more pipes than are attached to
them, so we may safely conclude they are capable of doing their
present quota of work with ease. The mains, flows, and returns,
which conduct heated water to our houses, have a direct run of about
326 feet, with a gradual rise from lowest to highest point of 13 feet.
The principal of the firm of Horticultural engineers who laid these
mains, examined the ground before beginning the work, and declared
the local conditions admirably adapted to a rapid circulation and a suc-
cessful termination of his labours. The work in its various stages was
superintended by no less than three practical hot-water engineers — an
accumulation of engineering skill which should have placed us in pos-
session of a favourable example of what one of your correspondents is
pleased to term the " old system of heating." We do not know of a
9-feet length of flow-pipe in our houses which has not at least J-inch
rise in its length, and of course the returns have precisely the same
descent to the mains. Every flow-pipe leading from the mains to each
of our houses is supplied with a valve so that the heat may be entirely
under control.

It was implicitly believed, beyond all shadow of doubt, that
the pipes situated on the highest level, taken from the boiler, would
be so much the hottest, that valves were put on the mains at about
164 feet from the boilers, in order to check the expected natural in-
clination of the heated water to rush to the highest point, and so
neglect the houses on the lower levels, — so much for theory. The
actual results are directly opposed to the engineers, and, at the time,
our own " rule of thumb " ideas of the natural laws governing the cir-
culation of hot water. All the houses situated on the lowest level are
the hottest, so much so as to require the greatest nicety in managing
the valves, which have to be so nearly shut as to almost stop circu-
lation altogether. The houses, situated on what we may term the

420 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

middle level, are the most satisfactory, requiring little trouble in the
management of valves, and are all that we could desire with some-
what slow fires ; but beyond the valves in the mains mentioned above,
which by the way, are always open, we have a house 86 feet long, and
a ran°-e 150 feet long, divided into three compartments. The pipes
in the first of these, beginning at the end nearest the boilers, cannot
be heated to the same temperature as the houses immediately below
them The second compartment is cooler still; and to show the differ-
ence between the first and third, we may say that during last winter,
when the heat in the former was above 40°, the frost was in the latter,
which is the highest point to which the water flows from the boilers,
and to which it has a direct, straight, and uninterrupted run. We
may add that all our houses are well supplied with pipes, having been
put up for forcing Pines and Cucumbers.

The position of affairs stated above is exceedingly annoying. If we
increase our fires in order to obtain the required heat in the highest
houses those on the lowest levels are literally roasting. Surely there
must be something theoretically wrong here. Either the engineering
skill brought to bear in their arrangement was sorely deficient, or there
are exceptionable cases in nature's irresistible laws ; for we are unfor-
tunately in possession of an instance in which hot water persistently
refuses to run freely up-hill according to the rules and regulations laid
down by the most scientific hot- water engineers, and we do not think
any amount of figures or elaborate calculations would have much effect
in inducing the water to alter its ways.

Joseph Hamilton & Son.

Wellington Place, Carlisle.

In the May issue I suggested that it would be well, if the discussion
on heating by hot-water continued, to provide ' The Gardener ' with a
safety-valve ; and I hoped Mr Makenzie would have supplied one on
the " strata " principle. As yet he has not done so ; neither has he, in
his last paper, alluded to a stratum of any kind, hot, cold, or of average
temperature ; and I begin to fear that the " strata" theory of circula-
tion has exploded, and that of average temperature sunk to zero.

I am glad, however, judging from the length of his last paper, to
observe that he has not suffered any bodily injury through the occur-
rence, and the strata valve may yet take a place as an auxiliary in the
mercurial barometrical chimney-pump theory of circulation, as pro-
pounded by him in ' The Gardener ' for August.

I do not think the average-temperature point worth warming up
again ; but I know Mr Makenzie will pardon me if I again ask him,
Does the upper and hotter stratum travel faster than the under and
colder stratum on the down-hill journey % and if not, why not 1

Mr Makenzie says he has refuted my statements, and that I am
" wrong fundamently on almost every point." I have no doubt he

1879.] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 421

thinks so ; but I would hint, that possibly he is the only intelligent
reader of ' The Gardener ' who holds this opinion. From the first I
contended that the highest point of the apparatus should be as near
the boiler as possible, and not as far from the boiler as it can be got as
is the usual practice. Mr Makenzie now says it makes no difference
where the highest point is — not a shade of a difference. Is this proving
that I am " wrong fundamentally on almost every point " ? In my
humble opinion, it is granting what I contended for. I would also
point out that if it makes " not a shade of a difference " where the high-
est point is, then, as sure " as one and three make four " whether two

and two does or does not — there is no necessity " in ninety-nine out of
every hundred cases " for sinking the bottom of the boiler more than
one foot below the floor-level on which the pipes are fixed. And there-
fore those " unmitigated nuisances," deep stock-holes, need no longer
exist.

I would remark, however, that it makes all the difference, so far as
the rapidity of the circulation is concerned, at what point of the ap-
paratus the water attains to the highest point of elevation. If we want
the most perfect circulation attainable in any form of the apparatus
the water must ascend vertically from the point on which the fire acts
to the highest point. I could tell Mr Makenzie how to prove the truth
of this statement, but I will save space in ' The Gardener ' by giving a
quotation or two from one of Mr Makenzie's favourite authors, which
will perhaps be more satisfactory proof to Mr Makenzie that I am right
than anything I could advance in the same direction.

Hood, on warming buildings by hot water, page 45, says : " It has
occasionally occurred that the circulation of the water in the apparatus
has been reversed, the hot water passing along what should be the re-
turn-pipe, and the colder water following the course of the flow-pipe.
This effect has sometimes been exceedingly puzzling ; but it will be
found to arise in those apparatus which have but small motive power
and in which the principle has not been followed out of making the
water rise to the highest point of the apparatus as soon as possible and
allowing it, in its return to the boiler, to give out its heat to the various
pipes, coils, or other distributing surfaces which it is intended to heat."
Again, at page 169, Hood says : "In all cases where pipes are placed
at various elevations above the boiler, for the purpose of warming
different floors of a building, or where, from any other cause, the pipes
descend by steps or gradations from a high to a lower elevation before
the water returns to the boiler, it is desirable that the water should be
made to ascend at once from the boiler to the highest elevation. By
this means the best possible circulation is always insured." I hope
these quotations will satisfy Mr Makenzie that it makes " a shade of a
difference " to the circulation atwhat point of the apparatus the greatest
elevation occurs. Mr Makenzie says he " will show that increasing the
vertical height and increasing the difference between the temperature of

422 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

the two columns acts exactly in the same manner." Increased height
gives increased pressure on the bottom and sides of the boiler, and all
other parts of the apparatus. But pressure has no more to do with
causing circulation as it takes place in the hot-water apparatus, than
Mr Makenzie or I have to do with causing the magnetic needle to
point northwards. If the water escaped at any point of the apparatus,
then the higher the supply above the outlet the more rapid would be
the efflux ; but the water does not escape at any point of the apparatus,
— it circulates therein ; and unless there is a difference between the
specific gravity of the water in the two columns — no matter what may
be the vertical height of the latter above the boiler — circulation will
not take place, — which is a plain proof that the only motive power at
work in the hot-water apparatus is the difference of the specific gravity
of the water at different points of the apparatus ; and the only way by
which this motive power can be increased is by increasing the differ-
ence between the temperature of the water as it leaves the boiler at
the highest point, and returns thereto at the lowest point of the
apparatus. A second time Mr Makenzie says he will show " that in-
creasing the difference of the temperature between the water as it
leaves the boiler and in the returning column acts exactly in the same
manner as increasing the height." But in place of showing this he
gives a long list of isolated quotations from other men's writings ;
and as proof for or against anything, isolated quotations are of very
little value. I would here ask Mr Makenzie if he thinks that the
authors whom he has quoted have reached the acme of perfection in
their theoretical reasoning on the question of heating by means of hot
water, and that no further inquiry on the subject is necessary ? If he
thinks so, I don't think so ; and that I am right the number of un-
satisfactory heating hot-water apparatuses that are at work in every
county in the kingdom is a proof.

I now come to notice where Mr Makenzie says that my way of
increasing the motive power " is a most improper way, for two con-
siderations. First, the quantity of piping must be settled by con-
sideration apart from the circulation ; and second, because by increas-
ing the quantity the friction increases in greater proportion than the
power, consequently increasing the amount of pipe past a certain point
will prevent circulation altogether." Now in reference to the first
consideration, why my way of increasing the motive power is "a
most improper way," I would ask Mr Makenzie, why must the
question of circulation be left out of consideration when deciding
the quantity of piping requisite to heat a range of plant-houses 1 If
the quantity to do so " must be settled by consideration apart from
circulation," then according to the second consideration the quantity
of piping might be such as would " prevent circulation altogether."

The question of circulation should be the first consideration. If the

i879-] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 423

water circulates properly through the apparatus, minor difficulties in
connection with its erection are easily got over. Now with regard to
the second consideration. It becomes important when considered in
connection with another statement of Mr Makenzie's. The second
consideration * says — "by increasing the quantity" (of piping) "the
friction increases rin a greater proportion than the power." The
statement referred to is a quotation from Ganot's Physics, and the
conclusions that Mr Makenzie draws therefrom, and reads as follows :
" The pressure exerted by a liquid in virtue of its weight (or gravity)
on any portion of the liquid, or on the sides of the vessel in which it
is contained, depends on the depth and density of the liquid, but is
independent of the shape of the vessel and of the quantity of the
liquid." This quotation, Mr Makenzie says, "proves that the expendi-
ture of power is the same in raising water by pressure in a vertical
direction as at an angle ; " and that it also proves what he proved
already, " that the pressure depends on the depth or height and the
density of the liquid, so that it makes no difference to the motive
power, seeing the friction in both cases must be the same." Now ac-
cording to this consideration the motive power is limited in its action
by friction. According to the statement, the same amount of motive
power that would cause circulation in apparatus of, say, 500 feet of pip-
ing with the highest elevation — say, 5 feet immediately above the point
on which the fire acts — would cause as good a circulation in an ap-
paratus of, say, 5000 feet of piping having the same elevation at-
tained by a slow gradient, but situated 500 feet from the point on
which the fire acts. Let it be observed that " the height is the same,"
and the motive power the same in the two apparatuses here in-
dicated. But surely the heated volumes of water will meet with more
friction in attaining 5 feet of elevation by travelling up a slow
gradient of 500 feet in length, than it would meet with by ascending
vertically to the same height. The motive power that is the immediate
cause of the water circulating in the hot-water apparatus, and the
power that is the cause of water finding its levels by gravitation or
pressure, are totally different. The power (heat) which is the immedi-
ate cause of circulation in the hot- water apparatus is an imparted
power. The power by which water rises to a common level in a pipe
or pipes is inherent in the water itself. In the heating apparatus the
water receives the power to ascend at one point, while at all other
points of the apparatus it is parting with that power, and increasing
its power to descend. Hence the heated volumes of water should reach
the highest point of the apparatus before they part with any of the
power by which they reached that point. Now about " 10 or 100
miles " of piping being sufficient to drive the water through the
apparatus at a speed only equalled by the electric spark. I have to
say that Mr Makenzie must know — unless, like that other engineer,

424 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

" he knows very little of what he is talking about"— that the difference
of the specific gravity of the water as it leaves the boiler and returns
thereto is limited. At a temperature of 39i° water attains it greatest
specific gravity, and its least at 212°. These temperatures represent
the greatest difference that can occur in the specific gravity of water,
and therefore increasing the surface of piping beyond what would be
sufficient to cool the water from 212° to 39^° would in no way increase
the motive power. On the other hand, if the rate at which the water
moves in the pipes is determined by the difference in elevation be-
tween the highest and lowest points in the apparatus, then the water
could be made to circulate at almost lightning speed : we could have
stock-holes any depth.

I now notice where Mr Makenzie tells us "that a lighter fluid,
bulk for bulk, can force a heavier uphill, every mercurial barometer,
every pump and chimney in the country, proves." I would ask Mr
Makenzie as a special favour to explain in what way does the mer-
curial barometer show " that a lighter fluid, bulk for bulk, can force a
heavier uphill." In one of the tubes of the barometer there is a
vacuum at the top. In the hot water there is no vacuum at any
point. The feed-cistern prevents that. Then how does the action of
the common pump illustrate " that a lighter fluid, bulk for bulk, can
force a heavier uphill " 1 When raising water by means of the common
pump, the atmospheric pressure is withdrawn from one end of the
tube, while it acts with its normal force at the other. Nothing
analogous to this occurs in causing the water to circulate in the hot-
water apparatus.

Now about the chimney illustration, " that a lighter fluid, bulk for
bulk, can force a heavier uphill." The heavier fluid in most cases
stands aside and permits its lighter brother to pass upwards. Some-
times, however, the heavier fluid refuses to stand aside, the conse-
quence being a smoky room. I have now only to say that, as requested
by Mr Makenzie in ' The Gardener ' for August, I will undertake to
heat a range of houses as indicated by him without sinking the bottom
of the boiler more than one foot below the floor-level on which the pipes
are laid. And further, that the apparatus will work as well with the
boiler at this level as if the top of the boiler was sunk below the floor-
level. The question of whether the apparatus works as well the one
way as the other I would leave to the decision of the Editor of ' The
Gardener ' and Mr A. D. Makenzie.

J. Hammond.

Brayton Hall, Aug. 12, 1879.

-s->J^£J<r-M!5—

1879.] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 425

THE GARDENER'S PRIMER.

NO. V.

This power of decomposing carbon dioxide (carbonic acid), and of
decomposing ammonia into hydrogen and nitrogen, and water into
hydrogen and oxygen, and of recombining, solidifying, and utilising
these elements in their structure, is possessed by all plants containing
chlorophyll in their leaves and in the lower forms of plant-life, as
Paranerna in their free cells. The cells by which plants absorb oxygen
and disengage carbon dioxide are not cells containing chlorophyll.

The results of the recent investigations of Mr H. C. Sorby of Shef-
field, tend to show that the colouring matter in the green leaves of
plants are not simple green-coloured granules, but mixtures of chloro-
phyll and other colouring substances in a free state, differing in plants,
and having different chemical reactions, requiring new names, as
chlorophyll, blue and yellow chlorophyll, xanthophyll, orange and
yellow xanthophyll, lichnoxanthine, and orange lichnoxanthine, &c. ;
and that the word endochrome would be a better word to use than
chlorophyll as a general term. Further researches in this branch of
science, called comparative vegetable chromatology, may tend to ex-
plain the causes of many of our beautiful autumnal tints, and of the
presence of the colouring substances in the petals of the corolla.

It has been stated, generally, that plants with chlorophyll in their
leaves have the power of decomposing and recombining the elements
carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and nitrogen into various states or com-
pounds, but it is not correct to suppose that they are all equally en-
dowed with the extraordinary powers of recombining and rearranging
some or other of these elements into all of the following compounds.
It will be easily seen, from the names of some of them in the third
division, that they are confined to certain plants, and not possessed
by other plants. The following are the compounds alluded to :
Firstly, compounds of the elements, carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen,
generally called ternary, sometimes carbonaceous compounds, or
carbo-hydrates, and to these elements the plant is indebted for its
cellulose (the basis of all vegetable tissue), starch, dextrine, sugar, and
fixed oils ; secondly, compounds of the elements, carbon, hydrogen,
oxygen, and nitrogen, generally called quaternary, sometimes nitro-
genous compounds, and to these elements the plant is indebted for
its albumen, fibrine, diastase, and caseine ; and thirdly, to all the four
elements above named the plant is indebted for its acids, such as
citric, acetic, tartaric, malic, tannic, hydrocyanic, oxalic, and gallic
acids ; and for its alkaloids, such as aconitine, atropine, quinine, mor-
phine, strychnine, theine, or caffeine j and for its volatile oils, resins

2 G

426 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

(copal); and for the hydro-carbons, caoutchouc and gutta-percha. It
may be here mentioned that the milky secretions of our common
wild-flowers, such as of the Dent de lion or Dandelion, Sow thistle,
(Sonchus crispus), Spurges (Euphorbia), or Celandine (Chelidonium
majus), may be regarded as caoutchouc.

Leaves, by exhalation or transpiration, give off in vapour the water
of the sap : sun-heat and wind are both causes of this natural process,
and a fresh supply of water will be necessary to restore the equil-
ibrium j but it does not go on so rapidly during dull quiet days, and
the gardener therefore does not then water his plants so freely as
might be otherwise necessary to do after they have been exhausted
by sun-heat, nor does he water his plants during sun-heat, nor in
windy weather, as it would only tend to increase the exhalation or
transpiration, which, when excessive, carries off so much heat from
the plant. It has been said that one of the uses of garden-walls is to
keep off the wind, and so lessen the exhalation of plants. Du Breuil
says that watering fruit-trees growing in the open air, except during
their first year of planting, does more harm than good, and to stone
fruit-trees is destructive to their roots.

Some tuberous-rooted plants may be propagated by their leaves
without buds on them, as Gloxinia gesnera, tuberous Begonia, and
many succulent plants. The process by which this is induced is
very simple, its direct cause more difficult to explain. The leaf is de-
tached from its parent plant, placed flat on the surface of a pot con-
taining silver-sand, and the veins are cut or broken, and an artificial
node or axil is produced ; the leaf is pegged down, or kept down in
its place, and with the usual appliances of heat, warmth, moisture,
and a bell-glass over it, it soon emits roots which will form small
bulbs, even at the edges of the leaf, and the green fleshy part of
the leaf will perish.

Leaf- buds consisting of wrapped-up leaves are formed, in temperate
and cold climates, at the end of the stem or branch, in the autumn,
or in the axils on the stem, where the leaves or leaf-stalks are situate;*
the mode or plan on which the bud is formed is called "vernation."
These buds or eyes, as they are called, can be easily cut out from the
stem of a plant, such as the Vine, and be induced to grow in warmth ;
or they can be cut out from one tree and placed in the stem of
another tree when the sap is flowing — and to this faculty is due the
practice of budding fruit-trees, as well as Eose-trees on the Briar, and
which will to some extent supersede the old system of grafting.

* Trees and shrubs in hot climates do not produce buds ; the interval between
the formation and evolution of the bud is so short as not to need this protec-
tion for the shoot.

1879.] ABUTILON BOULE DE NEIGE. 427

ABUTILOU BOULE DE NEIGE.

This is a most valuable free-flowering plant, producing its beautiful
white flowers in great profusion the whole year through. It is a
most useful plant for florists, &c, who have a demand for white
flowers for making wreaths, &c, although some dislike the shape of
the flower, and find fault with the yellow centre for such a purpose ;
but this can be partly remedied by carefully replacing the petals with
the finger and thumb, or giving them a gentle blow with the mouth,
and then cutting out the yellow centre with a pair of sharp scissors.
This alters the look of the flower entirely.

To have it in flower the whole year through, it is better to have
two sets of plants ; and June is a good time to strike a few cuttings
to be grown on for winter blooming. Take the growing points and
dress them in the usual way, and insert them in the propagating-pit
or in pots, and plunge them in a gentle hotbed, watering them with
tepid water, and shading them from bright sun until they are rooted,
when they should be potted off singly into 3 and 4 inch pots in light
loamy soil, with a little thoroughly-decayed cow-dung, sand, and
charcoal-dust, well mixed together. When potting, give them a firm
hold of the soil, and water them gently with tepid water ; after which
plunge them in a warm pit, and keep close and shaded for a few days
till they take a hold of the new soil. When they have filled these
pots with roots, shift them into 5 or 6 inch ones, using the same com-
post in a rougher state, after which they will grow away vigorously,
and require to be pinched and have the growths nicely regulated, and
occasionally syringed overhead on fine days after noon, to keep up a
moist growing atmosphere.

The next shift will be into 8 or 9 inch pots, which is quite large
enough to flower them in during the winter ; and they produce their
flowers in great abundance when a little pot-bound, and gently stim-
ulated with manure-water. The points must not be pinched too
late in the autumn. They will throw out abundance of flowers at
the axils of the leaves if grown in a light airy position, and have a
temperature ranging from 50° to 55°. They will luxuriate in a Melon-
house along with Primulas, and should be treated much the same, or
in a warm greenhouse near the glass.

We have it thriving admirably planted out on the back wall of a
vinery, where it is not too much shaded, and the quantity of flowers
it produces in such a position is something marvellous.

The plants must be liberally supplied with liquid manure when
making their growth, and occasionally throughout the winter months.
It also " tells " well as an exhibition flowering-plant when grown on

428 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

to a large size, the white flower in great profusion on a large well-
trained specimen being almost unique. Some of the best-shaped
plants which have flowered during the winter should be selected for
this purpose, and partially shaken out, repotted, and cut back, and
placed in a gentle heat, and grown on to any size which may suit the
cultivator's taste and convenience. Dundonian.

ECONOMY OF FUEL IN HORTICULTURAL
ESTABLISHMENTS.

I observe that a paper has been read before the Scottish Horticultural
Association by Mr A. D. Makenzie upon the above subject, which is
attracting so much general attention at the present time.

Mr Makenzie has, T daresay, from his own point of view, almost
riddled the subject ; and with many of his statements I am not at all
disposed to disagree, because they are the rudimentary principles which
I was first taught when I entered the garden as a lad — a good many
years ago now. The principle of heating by hot water is being dis-
cussed, to my mind, in a very masterly manner in the pages of 'The
Gardener ' at the present time ; and I am proud that it is one of our
practical horticulturists (who are the bone and muscle of gardening)
who is directing attention to another principle of heating which, if
his reasoning turn out to be correct, will be a great boon to gardening
generally, and remove obstacles which have hitherto been regarded as
insurmountable. My object in writing these remarks is not because I
wish to signalise myself upon this particular subject as far as the
" principle " of heating is concerned, but, on the contrary, with the
object of supplementing Mr Makenzie's remarks by taking another
view which may not have come under his notice.

I may perhaps remark that I have had opportunities of witnessing
the progress of horticulture in its various phases, and under varying
circumstances. In addition to this, I have sometimes been consulted
by gentlemen who lived in the neighbourhood where I resided as to the
best form of house, its aspect and internal fittings, for cultivating cer-
tain plants or fruits at various seasons. This position sometimes brought
me into contact with persons who had undertaken duties of which they
are as ignorant as I am of the Zulu tongue. It must be borne in mind
that a gentleman may be an accomplished scholar — his training may have
been of the most profound and erudite character, he may have excelled
in science, natural history, and mathematics — and yet be totally unfit
to advise as a garden architect. To bring matters to an issue at once,
I may state that my argument is, that no architect is an authority on
practical gardening save the " practical gardener." This is no reflection
upon the social position, the intelligence, or education of the architect

1879.] ECONOMY OF FUEL. 429

who could span the Menai Straits with a tubular or suspension bridge,
or who could lay a tunnel under the water from Dover to Calais. It is
simply a matter of people confining their sphere of operations to what
they thoroughly understand. Now this is not so in gardening, and this
is why so many of the misfortunes alluded to by Mr Makenzie occur
in horticultural building and heating (for really the two branches are
almost inseparably connected). The proper authority, the gardener,
is not consulted in the first place ; or if he is, it is when it is too
late. Let it be distinctly understood that I recognise, in the fullest
degree, the assistance that the experienced horticultural architect or
hot-water engineer can render to the gardener, and vice versa; but
however full the information of the former may be, he must have the
" key-note " from the gardener, otherwise he will signally fail in exe-
cuting his work, in nine cases out of ten, in a manner that will give
satisfaction afterwards. I know from experience that there are per-
sons who are often called upon to advise in horticultural matters
who have no practical knowledge of building or heating, and yet have
the courage, or rather the assumption, to usurp the gardener's duty,
because the gardener does not resent their approaches in that dignified
manner which would bring things to their proper level. For the bene-
fit of those who may not be acquainted with these gentlemen, I may
state that their modus operandi is as follows : —

They get an introduction to a gentleman, perhaps through a friend,
and the wiles of diplomacy are set steadily to work to extract from the
gardener a practical base to work upon. I have found, as a rule, that
these "quacks" are extravagant in their habiliments, with appendages
which need not be described dangling about their raiment, and carry
politeness to the extreme during the first interview. Their object is
manifest enough, and it is a great strain upon patience even to " play "
with or listen to the chatter of these "dressed dolls" — the "toys" of hor-
ticulture. Now, if you divest these small gentry of their external para-
phernalia, you have nothing left but the skeleton of assumption in its
meanest shape. I once heard one of these worthies say that he pur-
chased the leading horticultural organ every week as a proof of the
intimate knowledge he had acquired in heating and building from a
perusal of the drawings contained therein. Half, if not more, of the
horticultural buildings of Great Britain are rendered comparatively use-
less from the above cause and others of a kindred nature. The very
vitals of horticulture are being eaten to the core, and yet there is not
a single voice raised in its defence from the experienced builder or
gardener.

Mr Makenzie is quite right when he recommends to a body of prac-
tical men that the quantity of piping put in a house should be in pro-
portion to its cubical contents ; but surely Mr Makenzie must know
that practical gardeners know all this vastly better than he can tell
them, and are better able to decide as to the quantity of heat they

430 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

require in an early or late vinery, a plant, stove, or intermediate house,
from their own practice.

If there is anything I do like to see, it is that people occupy their
proper positions in society without encroaching upon the duties of
others.

In the main, I agree with much that Mr Makenzie has said with
regard to boilers and heating. The fault I find is, that he has said so
little that everybody does not know. I have worked the terminal
saddle, the Whitley Court, and many others, with more or less success,
according to the knowledge of those who "set" the boilers and arranged
the work, which is, after all, the great point in heating ; and I have
also seen Wright's boiler (which Mr Makenzie has gone out of his way
to condemn) giving the highest satisfaction at two places, in one of
which the head -gardener is something of an engineer as well as a
horticulturist.

The point which I would like to see Mr Makenzie determine for us is,
how it is that we have for years been burying money in deep stoke-holes
when it is quite practicable to do the work without them. I visited a
garden some time ago, where, to obviate the necessity of sinking a deep
stoke-hole, an expansion-box was fixed several feet above the boiler —
the water rising in the flow-pipe into the expansion-box, and then de-
scending perpendicularly a distance of 7 feet into the pipes, which
are set on a "dead level" throughout their entire length, except that
the return-pipe dips a little a few feet from the boiler.

Practical Gardener.

SMALL CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR HOUSE
FURNISHING.

Useful as the Chrysanthemum undoubtedly is when grown into large
bush specimens for conservatory embellishment, or in the various other
ways in which it is trained and cultivated, there is no form in which it
can be grown that is more useful to the gardener than that of growing
it in small pots for stands or vases for indoor furnishing. These plants
when properly cultivated in small pots are so useful for arranging en
masse at the base of large mirrors, or for grouping together in stands in
their different colours, as well as forming front lines to groups of plants,
that it is a wonder they are not more generally employed for the pur-
poses above described.

The reason may, however, be explained to some extent by the fact
that the mode of cultivation which is necessary in order to secure dwarf
plants for such a purpose is not generally understood.

It may appear strange to many cultivators of the Chrysanthemum to
learn that the month of August is the proper time to propagate for this
purpose ; but of course the ultimate result depends a good deal upon
the strength and condition of the cuttings when they are taken, and to

1879.] SMALL CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 431

the treatment they receive while they are forming roots. The plan of
propagating that I have found to succeed best is to raise a gentle hot-
bed by collecting a little short grass and leaves, and mixing them well
together so as to generate a gentle moist heat. This being done, a
number of small sixty-sized pots — say from fifty to a hundred, as the
case may be — should be got in readiness, by having them clean washed
and a single crock placed in the bottom of each pot for drainage. The
pots should then be filled to within half-an-inch of their surface with
a liberal compost of good loam and rotten dung well incorporated
together. The next point of importance is the selection of cuttings in
a proper condition. These should be taken from bush-plants that are
growing vigorously after the " bud is formed" — or set, as the common
phrase goes — about the second week in August. The secret of success
lies in having the bud just formed, and in rooting the plant as quickly
as possible. When the cuttings are being inserted a hole should be made
in the centre of the soil in each pot, into which put a little leaf-mould
and sand mixed, and press the cutting firmly into it, then plunge the
pots into the bed already prepared for their reception, and dew over
through a fine syringe. The plants should never be allowed to see the
sun nor to droop a leaf while they are rooting, as their beauty depends
in a great measure upon their being furnished with fine glossy leaves.
As they are found to be rooting, gradually withdraw the shade, and
keep the soil in the pots loose on the surface. The bottom-heat will
be daily on the decline as the plants are rooting, and air should be ad-
mitted more or less as the plants will stand it, until they will bear
exposure altogether, by which time the heat in the bed will have died
out, and the sashes may be removed from over the plants. All the
buds should be removed when large enough but the centre or conical
one, before the latter gets distorted by the smaller buds pressing
against it. A sharp-pointed stick with the point slightly bruised
between the teeth answers well for the purpose, and is not likely if it
touches the main bud to puncture it.

The small pots are best kept plunged all through the autumn, but
there should be some hard substance placed under the bottom of each
to keep the roots from travelling outside the pot. The plants require
extra attention in watering, and should be frequently supplied with
liquid manure, even while the buds are expanding, at which time they
should be removed to a shelf in a light airy structure, and kept at a
temperature of 55°, with air on night and day, except in case of exces-
sive damp or frost. In the former case the temperature should fall five
degrees at night, and the atmosphere of the house should be thoroughly
dried up before the house is closed in, as excessive moisture condens-
ing on the opening flowers is likely to spoil some of the petals and thus
spoil the symmetry of the flower. The object of the warmth is to
" grow out the petals to their full length," and the liquid manure will
assist to produce substance and breadth of petal as well as colour.

432 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

The varieties best adapted for this purpose are the " self-incurved "
sorts, such as George Glenny, Mrs George Bundle, Mrs Dixon, Prince
Alfred, Little Pet, General Bainbridge, White Globe, Sir Stafford
Carey, Mr Gladstone, General Slade, St Patrick, and Blonde Beauty.
I may remark, in concluding, that flowers grown as I have described
are not to be supposed as being inferior in any way to those grown
upon large plants — their great beauty and attractiveness being in the
fine large flowers ; while the plants are so small that they can be used
either singly or in groups for almost any purpose. W. Hinds.

PLUMS FROM THE PLUM-HOUSE AT CHATSWORTH.

About the middle of July Mr Speed kindly forwarded us fifteen
varieties of Plums from the Plum-house at Chatsworth, his object
being to show which varieties are best suited for forcing. The fruits
were all from trees planted out and treated alike in the same house.

Rivers's Early Plum had been fit for use since the end of June, and
the specimen of it was quite shrivelled. The next earliest was the
Czar, and it was just fit for gathering, but nothing more. Belgian
Purple, Goliath, Blue Prolific, and an unnamed variety, were just be-
ginning to get a little soft. Kirk's Seedling, Jefferson, Greengage,
Transparent Gage, Victoria, Angelina Burdett, Guthrie's Late, Belle
de Septembre, and Golden Drop, were all hard and green. This col-
lection made it very manifest that Rivers's Early is by far the most
useful of the lot for early forcing, and the Czar succeeds it closely. It
will also be very apparent how useful a Plum-house must be when
planted with such a collection as the above ; for from the period
Early Rivers is in season, to the time when such as Coe's Golden Drop
comes into use, is a very long one. Considering how very useful a
fruit the Plum is, and how much it is improved by being grown under
glass, it is rather surprising that Plum-houses are not more plenti-
ful, especially in localities where the crop of fine Plums is a pre-
carious one.

We received at the same time a sample of a seedling Tomato raised
by Mr Speed, which for size and flavour surpassed anything we had
previously seen. It was nearly a pound weight, and Mr Speed says
it is as remarkable for its free bearing, and suitability for early forcing,
as for its size and quality. It cannot fail to be an esteemed variety,
now that Tomatoes have so well-deservedly become a popular vege-
table.

1879.] ROUND LONDON. 433

ROUND LONDON.

Continued from 'page 381.

The next garden visited was altogether different from the general ruck. Old
fashioned flowers occupied borders and beds, and even encroached indoors, for
two houses have been built entirely for the culture of the rarer sorts. This
is the garden of Mr Joad, Wimbledon Park, one of the most interesting gar-
dens visited. There are, as a matter of course, the generally grown stove
and greenhouse plants, Grapes, &c, here, but the great point of attraction is
the splendid collection of Herbaceous and Alpine plants, a class of plants that
one visit fails to satisfy. This locality is extremely rich in well-kept gardens,
but we can only note the more important. One, a report of which appeared in
the 'Gardener ' some five years ago, has undergone great changes in the mean-
time. This is the seat of Sir Henry Peek, M.P., Wimbledon House. Since
Mr Ollerhead has managed these gardens, many of the specimen plants have
been got rid of, and fruit-growing gone into more extensively. The mode of
filling structures with bearing trees is somewhat differently gone about here
than in other gardens. Two houses are required for Fig culture : Mr Ollerhead
forthwith lifts a tree large enough to fill the house at once, and directly there
is a Fig-house in full bearing. The Grape- Vines are considered unsatisfactory :
a crop is cut off them, say this July, the Vines are cut down directly, the
house filled with young canes the same season, and twelve months after
Grapes are approaching the colouring process in these same vineries. Heavy
crops are growing in the Peach-houses, Pines are planted out in beds, pits
are full of Roses, Orchids are grown in housefuls, and everything being made
the most of. A few miles further on is Lord Londesborough's garden, at
Norbiton. A few years ago this was a wheat field, now there are large fruit-
trees of all kinds in full bearing in the open, quarters of all kinds of veget-
ables, hundreds of feet run of vineries in full bearing, Peach-houses, Straw-
berry-houses Orchid-houses, Rose, Gardenia, and Geranium houses, besides
pits and houses filled with numberless other plants useful for furni&hing and
producing cut-flowers. I may just note that the only kinds of Grape grown
are Black Hamburg and Muscat of Alexandria, and these are had all the year
round. The Vine borders are merely the top spit of a wheat field, the subsoil
600 feet deep of clay— so says Mr Denning. The Vines have been planted five
years, and are in grand condition, the bunches averaging from 2 to 3 lb. each.
Peaches are trained in the shape of the letter Y, one tree to two sashes. Straw-
berries are grown extensively— Keen's Seedling and Garibaldi the only kinds
grown. Fulmer's Forcing is the only French Bean grown ; Lord Kenyon's fav-
ourite the only Cucumber; Christine, Vesuvius, and Madame Vaucher the only
Geraniums to be found here. Mignonette is grown by the thousand potfuls ;
Hoteias, Lilacs, and other furnishing plants, in like proportion. The collection
of Orchids is one of the most extensive and rare in England, and the whole
establishment one that it is necessary to see, to fully understand. A short
distance along the Wimbledon Road is Coombe Cottage, Mr Baring's residence.
" The shades of night were falling fast " before we had seen much of the well-
kept gardens. Grapes and other indoor fruits are well grown here. There are
many fine specimen stove-plants, and amongst Orchids Mr Baker is obviously
quite at home. Some of the strongest grown Dendrobes we have ever seen
are here, grand specimen Ccelogynes, Pleiones growing in pans close to the
roof in robust health, and others too numerous to mention. Mr Baker has

434 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

some wonderful Cauliflowers to show, manured with nitrate of soda at the
rate of If cwt. to the acre ; quarters of Potatoes, some without the soda,
the remainder dressed as above, show the value of this as a manurial
agent very strikingly. Next day, after a run through Kew, which is as
interesting as ever, we called at Gunnerbury Park, Baron E,othschild's seat,
near Acton. Mr Roberts unfortunately was not at hand, but his foreman
kindly showed everything of interest there was to be seen. As is well
known, the Grape- Vines at Gunnerbury Park were destroyed by Phylloxera,
so that the vineries themselves are the most interesting things connected
with Grape-growing. One lean-to range is some 25 or more feet wide, and
proportionate in height. These are heated by means of 11 rows of 4-inch
pipes. Another span - roofed house is about 40 feet wide. When filled
and in full bearing, these structures must be a "sight worth seeing." The
cool Orchids, Phalasnopsids, and Yandaceous plants are another feature of this
garden. The Odontoglossums, as a whole, are the strongest and healthiest we
have ever seen. The material used for potting is apparently almost entirely
peat, the plants being set on top of a cone of that material. A plant of 0.
vexillarium had 139 flowers open at time of visit. In the East Indian house
the Phalsenopsids are in the most robust health. In the same house is the
grandest lot of iErides, Saccolabium, and Vandas I have ever had the privilege
of seeing. Beside these, the other stove plants, the hundreds of feet of Peach-
trees in wall-cases, and the many other good things at Gunnerbury, are
denuded of the interest otherwise attaching to them. There are many other
places of interest in this neighbourhood which we have not space to notice.
The last garden we can make note of is Mr Whitbourn's, Loxford Hall, near
Ilford, Essex. This garden is replete with interesting things. Mr Douglas
devotes himself to growing so many things well that, although the garden is
not a large one, the time flies by unheeded, and the note-book gets filled to
repletion. Orchids, though not a large collection, are exceedingly well grown,
and many fine pieces are to be found here. In the stove are several fine plants
— Dendrobium Devonianum and D. Wardianum in grand order; several plants
of Odontoglossum vexillarium, and varieties of 0. Roezlii ; a large piece of
Dendrobium libuiflorum, Oncidium lanceanum — a large basketful in flower ;
besides various Cypripediums, Cattleyas, brides, &c. Two fine plants of Adian-
tum concinnum latum are also growing here. This is one of the finest of the
genus, though somewhat rarely seen in good order. The Pine pits are now devoted
to plant-growing. Especially noteworthy here are Anthurium Schertzerianum
and Dendrobium nobile — grand plants. A Muscat of Alexandria planted in a
small pit and growing overhead in one of these houses, is in grand form. In
the Odontoglossum house are a few of the largest and healthiest plants of 0.
Alexandra? we have noted ; a grand Oncidium macranthum, just opening ;
several large pieces of Epidendrum vitellium majus — one large plant making
its growth and flowering the same year. Here are also large specimen Mas-
devallias, and Lselia majalis is doing well on a block. The greenhouse is full
of specimen plants of such things as Bougainvillea glabra, Erica Cavendishii,
and others ; large Azaleas, Statice profusa, grand in colour, &c. In a large
orchard-house are the last of the pot Strawberries, Loxford Hall seedling, a very
late and dwarf variety. In front of this structure are some 500 Carnations and
Picotees in pots, and a large quantity of healthy Chrysanthemums. The alpine
Auriculas are also grown here. In a pit are flowering the newest of the show
Pelargoniums ; a collection of Hardy Orchids in fine health ; a large case of
filmy Ferns contains a unique collection of these. Amongst others are fine

1879.] SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. 435

plants of Todea Fraserii, T. plumosa, Hymenophyllum flexuosum, and H. demis-
sum. Gleichenias are also grown in this pit, a healthy piece of the scarce
G. flabellata doing well. In a small lean-to orchard-house is a quantity of
seedling Aquilegias flowering. Behind the late vineries are the frames con-
taining the collection of show Auriculas ; there is some 50 feet run of these,
named sorts and seedlings. In the vineries themselves are good crops of
Grapes. In a line with these is another range of small houses, the first being
devoted to Cattleyas and kindred plants. In this house are three pieces of the
lovely Oncidium concolor growing on blocks, and which flower profusely. A
large piece of 0. Marshallianum is also in this house, and many other species
of interest. In the next compartment are two plants of Dendrobium Dal-
housiauum making remarkable growths. Cucumbers, Crotons, Oranges, and
Pines are also grown in this range. Space does not allow us to do more than
mention the collections of Pinks, herbaceous plants, Dahlias, Pyrethrums,
Pansies, &c, which are grown here. There are several good gardens in the
district, but the rain, which had held up wonderfully, again commenced, and
we made a hasty retreat over the Border, to find the Lammermoors wreathed
in mist, and the next day the heaviest flood in the Tyne there had been for the
last thirty years. R. P. B.

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The monthly meeting was held in the hall, 5 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh,
on the evening of Tuesday, the 5th ult., Mr M. Dunn, President, in the chair.
The gentlemen proposed as members at last meeting having been formally
admitted, and the names of six others being given in for admission at next
meeting, Mr Andrew Kerr read a paper on the "Early Forcing of Dutch
Boots, Bhododendrons, Deutzias, &c." The principal features of his practice in
dealing with all these plants were — a houseowith a southern aspect, and plenty
of piping, so as to secure the greatest amount of heat. The plants to be forced
should all be potted as early in the autumn as possible, and the heat should be
applied gradually : in no case should they be taken from a cold pit or the open
air, and introduced at once into excessive heat. While forcing, each should
have an abundant supply of water. For very early flowering Hyacinths, he
knew no better sorts than Roman, which could be had in December ; and of
the ordinary sorts to come in later, La Precose, single white, Homerus, single
red, and Grand Lilas, single blue. The best early Tulips were the different
double and single varieties of Van Tholl, which came in first, and which were
followed by the Tournesol and its varieties. Mr John Cowe, Superintendent
of the Metropolitan Cemetery, followed with a paper on "The Hyacinth," in
which he described the mode by which he had so successfully grown that plant
for many years past. After remarking that it was by no means particular as
to soil, he had found that a mixture of rich loam, leaf -mould, and river sand,
was the best compost that could be used. The pots should always be well
drained, and he was accustomed to put a handful of old rotten manure above
the crocks. After potting, which should be done as soon as possible after
procuring the bulbs, they should be plunged in a shed, in sand or ashes, and
never allowed to become wet. So soon as they start, and it is found that the
pots are well filled with roots, they should be placed in an airy frame or green-
house, close to the light, abundantly supplied with water ; and an occasional
dose of weak liquid-manure should be given during the whole growing season.
Though not able to assign a reason for the fact, he had found as the result of

436 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

his experience that Hyacinths grew better in old than in new pots, and strongly-
advised beginners never to use the latter if old ones could be got. At the
close of his paper, Mr Cowe promised to read a short description of the sizes
and forms of bulbs likely to produce fine flowers, as he had found that each
sort had its peculiar and well-marked characters. The concluding paper, sent
by Mr Mackinlay, Tulloch Castle, and read by the Secretary, was on the
"Pear, its Cultivation and Management." The author dwelt at some length
on the importance of careful treatment while the trees were young, and urged
upon gardeners to be careful in the selection of sorts likely to be suitable for
the district, and at the same time such as would ripen their fruit in succession.
This paper, though short, was eminently practical, and full of suggestive hints
to young gardeners. The reading of each of the several papers was followed
by an interesting conversation, and at the close the usual votes of thanks were
cordially tendered to their authors. Of the subjects tabled for exhibition we
noted a number of well-bloomed spring-struck regal Pelargoniums, including
some of the most choice sorts, from Messrs Thomas Methven & Sons : these
were dwarf, bushy plants, and fine examples of successful cultivation. Messrs
Dickson & Co. had a large group of hardy herbaceous plants, including Cam-
panulas, Linums, Potentillas, Triteleia, Dianthus, &c. &c. Mr Dow sent a
spike of a variety of Seakale, six feet high, which will undoubtedly, as was
suggested, be a welcome addition to the Sub-tropical or Wild Garden : he had
also a fine specimen of the stately and curious Arum dracunculus. David
Paterson, Esq., Restalrig Park, Leith, sent a branch of Cephalotaxus, and a
flowering branch of the old-fashioned but now unfortunately too much neglected
Clethra arborea, a greenhouse or lofty conservatory shrub of great beauty.
Messrs Todd & Co. had spikes of Gladiolus The Bride, a superb variety, worthy
of extended cultivation. Mr George Robertson had a very choice collection of
blooms of herbaceous plants, and Mr Dunn, Dalkeith, a box of fine fruit of
Strawberry James Veitch.

— -^-» 9izi-p<^<s —

NOTICES OF BOOKS.

The Fern World. By Francis George Heath. Serial publication. Sampson

Low & Co., London.
We have the eighth part of the serial issue of this charming book before us.
It contains beautifully correct coloured plates of the soft prickly Shield Fern,
the Holly Fern, and the hard prickly Shield Fern. The letterpress deals with
the Parsley Fern, the Bristle Fern, the Moonwort, the little Adder's Tongue,
and the Common and Mountain Polypodies. We have already referred to the
pleasing and instructive character of this work. All lovers of Ferns, and every
naturalist, should possess the work.

Catechism of Agricultural Chemistry. By Professor Johnston. William

Blackwood & Sons, Edinburgh and London.
This is a new edition of a work which has passed through thirty-six editions,
and which has been translated into nearly every European language. It is re-
vised and enlarged, and in every respect brought down to the present time, by
Charles A. Cameron, Professor of Chemistry to the Royal College of Surgeons.
Having intimated thus much, we need hardly say more in commendation
of the work. It ought to be learned by heart by every gardener and farmer,
for the questions it puts and answers lie at the very foundation of the culture
of the soil and the rearing of crops ; and it only costs Is.

i879.]

CALENDAR.

437

©aUn&ar*

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

The push of general work will now
be well over for the present season, so
far as active cropping is concerned ;
but it is not likely that there will be
much time to spare from active labour
in the best kept of gardens. We find,
from the lateness of the season and
the long-continued heavy rains, that
many arrears are to be brought for-
ward. Most crops are good and abun-
dant— they have been secured with
much trouble — and the ground (strong
clay) having been manipulated under
the most difficult circumstances, it is
far from our idea of "high cultiva-
tion." Therefore, in such cases prong
and hoe must be plied with extra
vigour. Soil which has been properly
worked in former years will not suffer
much for absence of spade or manure,
should it be found very difficult to give
the manure needful for one season.
Thorough surface - breaking will do
much to improve the crops. Weeds
have everywhere been a formidable
enemy to cultivators this season ; and
if they have seeded to any extent,
they will give plenty of labour for a
long time to come. It has been our
practice periodically to turn every
hand on weed-destroying — going over
every portion of the ground before a
halt was made, never waiting till they
get any size ; and by this means we
have comparatively saved much labour,
and have a weedless garden to boot.
Those who adopt the system of al-
lowing the weeds to seed will find that
they have always abundance of labour
on hand, and a very shabby garden.
Some weeks ago we had some thirty-
six cottagers' allotments to go over,
and to adjudicate seven prizes for the
best cropped and best kept. All were
under such good cultivation, that it
was difficult to give the awards —
weeds there seemed to be none, but
no vacant soil was to be seen any-
where. Even in such a season it
shows "where there's a will there's a
way." A general clearance of all re-
mains of crops should be made. When
there is nothing being returned from
the ground, better to have it clean than
burdened with decaying vegetation.
Thinnings of crops, especially those to
stand through the winter, should be

made without delay. Crowding makes
them tender and ill-suited to battle
with severe frost or much damp.
This applies to Parsley, Spinach, Tur-
nips, Lettuce, Carrots (late sowings for
drawing young), Onions, and Radishes?.
Thinnings of Parsley, Spinach, Let-
tuce, and young Onions may be trans-
planted if there is likely to be a
scarcity of them. More Cabbage
may be sown, to be a succession to
the main sowings ; or should they
have an accident, a few hundreds
of plants ready to plant out in
March or April will be of much ser-
vice where there is a heavy demand
in the early summer months. Plant
out thickly all Cabbage which are for-
ward enough for planting ; others may
be pricked out for October planting.
Deeply-trenched ground, with a good
coating of rich manure under the top
spit, will keep the crop safe through
the winter, and when the roots become
active in spring, they will run greedily
into the manure, and the Cabbage
will be of great size and very tender.
Cabbage grown on poor sandy soil in
starved condition are of inferior qual-
ity— tough and indigestible. Cauli-
flower may be sown again in a shallow
frame on light soil : a handlight or two
would protect a good succession, and if
kept growing with plenty of light and
air, and kept thin, they would be excel-
lent for planting out next April. Plant
under handlights, or other protectors,
on a sloping border well sheltered,
the Cauliflowers which are to come
in early. Coddling must be strictly
avoided. The same applies to Lettuce
to be brought forward under protec-
tion : have many more planted out
than the number likely to be applied.
Carrots sown now — Early Nantes and
Shorthorn — would come in very use-
ful where young Carrots are in request.
We find most people will use these
when they can get them easily. Soil
made fine, and well dusted with soot
and ashes, is a suitable position for
them. Celery may be well earthed up
(well watered with manure water first).
Keep all suckers off ; and if slugs are
likely to be troublesome, dust with
lime and finely-sifted ashes. Better
to plant up vacant ground thickly with

438

THE GARDENER.

[Sept.

Kale, Savoys, and other kinds of crops,
than have it empty during the winter.
It is yet too soon to allow ground to
be prepared by trenching for next
year's work ; but rather than it should
be a receptacle for weeds, trench it up
and expose a rough surface to action
of the weather : it could be forked
over and well manured for cropping
after the turn of the year. Turnips
may (in some southern localities) be
sown early in the month to fill up
Potato-ground ; but in northern parts
this cannot generally be done with
any degree of service. French Beans
and Scarlet Runners may be protected
with glass frames, or hoops, on which
mats may be thrown over at night.
The season having been so late, it is
all the more necessary to prolong the
supplies as far as possible. More
French Beans may be sown in pots

and in frames to succeed those in
open ground. Protect Vegetable Mar-
rows, ridge Cucumbers, Ghirkins, or
other tender crops, when weather may
seem inclined to be frosty : cold
drenching rains would help to prolong
the season of these. Tomatoes and
Chillies may be protected in the same
way. They have been grown this
year with more than ordinary labour,
and should be made the best of.
Potatoes in pots and frames ought to
be protected when they are growing :
if placed in a sheltered position where
light and air will reach them free-
ly, covered hoops or a framework of
mats would keep them safe during
frosty nights. Mushroom-beds may
be made behind walls, in cellars, out-
houses, or anywhere. Get a stock of
soil and other necessaries ready for
winter forcing of vegetables. M. T.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — About the middle or end of
this month is a good time to pot a
second batch of suckers from plants
that have recently ripened fruit. For
Queens 6-inch pots, and for strong
suckers of strong-growing sorts 7-inch
pots will be large enough. Select, if pos-
sible, a rather light turfy loam, adding
a 7-inch potful of bone-meal to each
barrow-load of soil. Pot firmly and
plunge in a bottom-heat of 90°, giving
the young plants plenty of room, and
keeping them within two feet or so of
the glass. Very little shade will be
required for newly-potted suckers at
the end of the month. Keep the air
moist and the pit rather close till roots
are formed, when more air should be
given. Suckers potted early last month
or in the end of July will be growing
freely, and will require to be kept
steadily moist at the root, and will do
with more air and all the sun they can
get. If for convenience they have been
plunged thickly, let them have more
room before they get crowded. These,
as well as newly-potted suckers, may
be lightly dewed with a fine syringe at
shutting-up time on fine days. All
Queens intended for starting early next
season should now have their pots well
filled with roots, and be otherwise well
matured. Give them no more water
than is enough to prevent their getting
a check. The minimum night tem-

perature for these should drop to 65°
by the end of the month. All syring-
ing of these should now be discontin-
ued. Encourage such as are not so
forward, and that are to succeed the
earliest, to grow freely all through this
month, until they too are strong and
have thoroughly filled their pots with
roots. But as the daylight is now fast
decreasing, avoid a forcing temperature
at night, or the plants will become
drawn. Smooth Cayennes and other
late sorts more recently shifted into
their fruiting - pots should be kept
moderately moist at the root, and have
a good supply of moisture in the air.
In the case of these especially, avoid
all extremes that would be likely to
check them and be the cause of their
starting before making a considerable
fresh growth early in spring. Let the
night temperature in mild weather
range to 70° when the weather is warm,
with a few degrees less when cold.
Shut them up early in the afternoon,
so that the heat for a short time stands
about 80°, and give a little air in the
morning when it exceeds 75°. All
fruit now swelling off should have a
temperature of 70° at night. Water
them with guano-water in a weak state
every time they require watering.
Keep the bottom-heat from 85° to 90°,
and see that the air is kept genially
moist. In fine bright weather the

I-879-;

CALENDAR.

439

syringe may be used several times a-
week ; but avoid wetting the crowns, or
they are apt to grow to an unsightly
size. Give all fruit colouring a free
circulation of dry warm air, but do not
dry them off severely at the root. Re-
move any that have to be kept for a
time after ripening to some cool dry
place with an even temperature.

Grapes. — The season has been so
unusually wet, sunless, and cold, that
Vines which are in robust health are
likely to be imperfectly ripened for
another season's crop. In all cases
where this is likely to be the case, ap-
ply tire-heat immediately the Grapes
are all cut, and keep a circulation of
dry warm air about the foliage and
wood until the mould is well consoli-
dated and the buds matured. If the
wet continue, it would be well also to
throw the rains off outside borders by
means of shutters or glass lights. It
is to be feared that even the very
earliest Vines will not be ready, as they
sometimes are, for pruning at the close
of the month. Perhaps, now that we
have so many late-keeping varieties,
and early crops are so generally pro-
duced from pot-Vines, there is less
necessity for the very early pruning of
permanent Vines. Recently-planted
Vines may have made vigorousgrowths,
and will also require an extra amount
of artificial means to thoroughly ripen
the wood. The stronger they are, the
more heat will be necessary to mature
the wood. Pot- Vines intended for
early forcing should, if possible, be
thoroughly ripe, and about ready for
any pruning they require by the end of
the month. Place them in a cool
place where they will rest thoroughly
until wanted for forcing. Look over
all Grapes that are thoroughly ripe,
especially if the wet weather continues,
at least twice weekly, and remove all
signs of decayed or shanked berries,
and keep air about them as dry as
possible. Muscats and all other late
Grapes should have fire-heat sufficient
to thoroughly ripen the fruit if pos-
sible by the end of the month. Look
over late Vines and remove all laterals;
and if Muscats are still greener than
they should be, tie aside some of the
leaves to let more light to the bunches.
The extra amount of fire-heat will in
many cases have bred red-spider ; and
as healthy foliage is of the utmost im-
portance in the matter of Grapes keep-

ing well, let the foliage be examined,
and wherever there is any spider
sponge it off. The inside borders of
late vineries should have a good
watering, if dry, before the Grapes are
quite coloured, and then be mulched
with some dry mushroom-bed dung to
prevent the moisture from evaporat-
ing and the border cracking. Examine
the outlets from the drainage of all
borders, and see that they are working
properly, and that no stagnant water
be about the roots. Any Vines that
have their roots far from the surface
should, on an early occasion when the
border is dry, have the inert soil on
the surface of the border forked up
and removed, and replaced with some
fresh loam well enriched with bone-
meal and some decayed stable-manure.
In the case of borders that through
judicious management have their roots
well to the surface, see that, if this
month be dry, they do not suffer from
over-dryness after such a season. A
good plan would be to add a few inches
to the mulching.

Peaches. — The season having been
so unusually sunless, wet, and cold,
there is special necessity for giving
artificial heat to ripen the wood, espe-
cially of young strong-growing Peach-
trees, thoroughly. Look over trees from
which the fruit has lately been cleared
off, and thin out all shoots that are
not required to furnish the trees suffi-
ciently for another season ; and keep up
a circulation of warm air in the houses
until the wood is ripe. If there be
any red-spider about the foliage, give
an occasional washing with the engine
on fine afternoons. Crops in cool
houses will be ripening, and if flies
or wasps are troublesome, fix hexagon
netting over the ventilating opens to
keep such pests out. Look over the
trees every day, and gather ripe fruit
before it drops. See that late varieties
under heavy crops, and that have the
chief of their roots in inside borders,
are well supplied with water.

Figs. — The same directions as to
ripening and thinning the wood that
have been given for Peaches are ap-
plicable to Figs from which the second
crop has all been gathered. Keep the
foliage fresh and healthy as long as
possible, and to this end use the
syringe or engine occasionally on fine
afternoons. Where late crops are
swelling and ripening off, give water-

440

THE GARDENER.

[Sept. 1879.

ings of dung-water to trees that are
old, and bearing heavily in limited
borders ; and when the fruit are ripen-
ing use a little fire-heat, and give a
free circulation of dry warm air, or
the Figs will be insipid. Early plants
in pots that have well ripened their
wood but not yet shed their leaves
may be placed in a warm exposure
outdoors.

Melons. — Apply fire-heat to these
so as to keep the night temperature
at from 70° to 75°, according to the
weather. Be more careful now in
giving water to plants that have
full - grown but notr ripe fruit on
them. After this season the fruit has
a tendency to split if too much water
be given. Keep ripening fruit dry
and warm, and as fully exposed to
sun as possible.

Cucumbers. — Add a little fresh
top-dressing of manure to the border

of any plants that show any signs of
exhaustion. Keep up the same tem-
perature recommended for Melons.
If mildew appears, dust with sulphur,
and keep the air a little drier for a
time. Plants intended for winter
bearing should be planted out by the
end of the month : use a rather light
rich soil, and not very much of it to
begin with. Grow the plants on with
a good supply of air and not a too
high night temperature, so as to get
the plants robust before short dull days
arrive.

Strawberries in Pots. — See last
month's directions. If the weather
should be bright and dry, they will
require good supplies of water. Where
plants are making more than one or
two crowns, remove the weakest.
Keep them free from runners and
weeds, and give them plenty of stand-
ing room.

Notices iff Cffrnspffitbents.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in ' The Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not for
publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and address
of writer.

Amateur. — The leaves should never be cut off Strawberries. Remove all
the runners as soon as the fruit is over, lg cwt. to the acre of nitrate of
soda is an excellent manure for Strawberries. For early crops, grow Keen's
Seedling ; second early, Garibaldi and President ; for latest, Elton Pine.

A Subscriber. — Mix phosphoric paste with some mashed Potato, and lay it
on pieces of slate in their haunts, and syringe the same with paraffin, at the
rate of two wine-glassfulls well mixed with a gallon of water. The common
toad introduced into your greenhouse will feast on them.

Thomas Smith. — The growths you have sent us indicate that the trees have
had too much wet, and too little sun. Of course if your trees are, as you say,
dying, it will be best to replant. See that the border is well drained, and if
possible, add some fresh friable loam to the soil.

" A Suggestion " and "Kalosanthes " next month.

EREATA.
In our notice of Sir Garnet Wolseley Cucumber last month, we gave the name
of the raiser as James Hamilton. It should have been Joseph Hamilton &
Son, Carlisle.

THE

GARDENER

OCTOBER 1879.

FLOWER - GARDENING OF THE SEASON.

LOWER - GARDENING has been, for the season which
may be said to be now gone, gardening without the
flowers. The spring gardening was only a partial success,
or almost a failure, from the havoc the severe winter
made among things of a herbaceous and annual character, bulbs
being also late, and the whole effect patchy and unsatisfactory. The
summer bedding has throughout had to struggle for existence. Tender
foliage plants, both dwarf and tall, have been starved out ; exotic suc-
culents have been rotted out ; and the flowers of Geraniums, Calceo-
larias, Violets, &c, have been washed out. Such is the tale which has
generally to be told, especially on retentive soils. In situations where
the soil is light and porous, a fair display of flowers is to be found,
though of a beaten and imperfect aspect. Flowering plants of the bed-
ding section, on the whole, have had but a draggled time of it.

If anything has been more satisfactory than another, it is plants of
the hardy herbaceous class, whether of the low carpeting character, as
the Saxifragas, Sedums, and Antennarias, or of the Funkias, Bamboos,
Bocconias, and suchlike. Even the flowering herbaceous plants have
all done well, especially those of any sturdiness and substance, such as the
Delphiniums, Campanulas, Alstroemerias, and now even the Phloxes
and Dahlias. The Spiraeas, among flowering shrubs, are making at the
present time a fine show, with a great variety in habit of growth and
colour of flowers. These, with their herbaceous relations, are really in-
dispensable, and destined to be much more largely planted. A lesson is
to be learned from all this in the consideration that our flower-garden-
ing is entirely dependent on the state of the weather, and that since

2h

442 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

weather forecasts of six months cannot yet be achieved, we ought to
prepare a due proportion of dull weather as well as sunshiny beds, the
former to predominate, in deference to the prevailing climate of these
islands.

Fortunately there is a growing public taste for the interesting as
well as for the gaudy flower-beds, and these may be made both showy
and tasteful by a judicious mixture of herbaceous and foliage plants,
banding them round with edgings of the summer bedders, or em-
broidering them with hardy carpeting plants ; or more prominence
might be given to tall foliage plants, such as Solanums, Cannas, even
hardy Ferns, banded with Geraniums, Calceolarias, Lobelias — in
short, the usual summer bedders. Many of the hardy herbaceous class
of plants have been quite gay this season, and point to the fact that,
planted in rich soil, with attention, abundant watering, and thinning
out the shoots as they go out of flower, the season of bloom would be
much prolonged. In this way, we think, many might be found to
yield throughout the summer months quite as good a show as Ger-
aniums and Lobelias, and, as far as flowers are concerned, superior to
the foliage plants we have just been noting. Geranium sanguineum
is a plant which has been equal to most bedding plants this season,
and might be used with advantage to fill the centres of large beds, and
is all the better not to have too rich a soil to grow in. The foliage is
of a bright showy green, and the flowers of a brilliant purple red.

For a yellow flowering plant, Corydalis lutea has been and is fine.
The foliage alone recommends it, even if it were not so profuse and
continuous in flowering. For a blue edging - plant, nothing could
approach Myosotis palustris. This past season it has been a continuous
sheet of the clearest blue since March. Another little plant which is
suitable for edgings has been in bloom all the summer — viz., Erodium
Reichardii, quite a carpet-plant, and it is a wonder it has not been
pressed into the service before now. These four common herbaceous
plants — three of them British — we feel sure would make or would have
made this summer quite a showy lasting bed, planted as noted : the Ger-
anium for a centre mass, with the Corydalis to follow in a band around,
then the Myosotis, and last the white-flowering Erodium. These have all
been under our eye all summer, flowering in patches, and we feel sure
they will not disappoint any one trying them in a bed as indicated.
We have no doubt other arrangements would occur to others better ac-
quainted with herbaceous plants. The Veronicas are a large class con-
taining tall as well as dwarf-creeping species of trim habit, and showy.
Some of the Everlasting Peas are quite gorgeous on heavy rich soil, such
as Lathyrus grandiflorus and latifolius, but especially the last. For
large beds they should be allowed to creep over some Spruce or other
branches laid over the surface of the bed, same as is sometimes done
for TropaBolum and Clematis : they then make a close hard mass, with
the flowers elevated above the foliage. We can vouch for their grand

1879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 443

effect from well-established plants, and if growing in deep soil well
watered or naturally moist, they last three months in bloom. Pity
they are scentless !

Annuals of the hardier sorts have had grand opportunities this year
of showing their colours and characters. Clarkias, Nemophilas, Linum
grandiflorum, Phlox Drummondii, but especially the upright-growing
kinds or the prostrate sorts, have been beaten down and rotted by the
rains. Tender annuals, such as Asters, Zinnias, and Everlastings, have
shared the fate of the sub-tropical bedders, and pushed the hardier an-
nuals into consequent prominence, showing what is really best worth
growing. There is a richness and variety of colour among annuals which
is not approached among any other class of hardy plants, and such a
season as the last should arouse gardeners to the claims of the much
too neglected annuals of the hardy kinds.

The Squire's Gardener.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

"We wish the members of the British Association could be subjected to a cross-
examination— some of them at least. No doubt Dr Allman, Professor Huxley,
and others are honest inquirers, but they are only men after all, and may be
mistaken in many things. They differ among themselves on that vital subject,
"deep-sea slime," for example — "the physical basis of life," according to
Professor Huxley, who at least appears determined to nurse his "bantling,"
as ' Punch' calls it, into life. Dr Allman's presidential address was no doubt
intensely interesting to those who study the mystery of life and of creation ;
but the question arises in one's mind, " How far are the conclusions and specu-
lations of the thinker and investigator to be accepted as true or even probable?"
Some years ago the teachings of Darwin and Tyndall created a profound sensa-
tion— took people by storm, in fact. The questions were new, or at least re-
vived in clearer shape, and the very audacity of the speculations advanced
fascinated peoples' minds ; but now a certain reaction seems setting in, and
some little impatience is being manifested by the reading public at the strained
endeavours made to bottom the mystery of the origin of life and solve the pro-
blem by scientific inquiry alone. The wish is too clearly father to the thought.
There is much about creation, but nothing about the Creator. If science suc-
ceed in accomplishing this — if it were proved to-morrow that mind was the mere
product of matter, originating and perishing with the body in which it was
manifested — we believe that the feeling in men's minds would be one of pro-
found humiliation and grief. A kind of terror seems to pervade the minds
of thinking people (not necessarily religious) at the prospect, or rather possi-
bility, of science making such a discovery. Anything almost may be done or
taught, we suppose, in the name of "science ;" but it cannot be denied that
what the British Association teaches would at one time not so far back have
been regarded as rank infidelity, or something very like it. The most interest-
ing portion of Dr Allman's address is that relating to protoplasm, and its nature
and composition. We are tempted to give the extract here for the sake of

4-U THE GARDENER. [Oct.

those of your readers who may not have read the address in the daily or
weekly press : —

"As has been said, protoplasm lies at the base of every vital phenomenon.
It is, as Huxley has well expressed it, 'the physical basis of life.' Wherever
there is life, from its lowest to its highest manifestations, there is protoplasm ;
wherever there is protoplasm, there, too, is life. Thus co-extensive with the
whole of organic nature — every vital act being referable to some mode or pro-
perty of protoplasm — it becomes to the biologist what the ether is to the physi-
cist ; only that, instead of being a hypothetical conception, accepted as a reality
from its adequacy in the explanation of phenomena, it is a tangible and visible
reality, which the chemist may analyse in his laboratory, the biologist scruti-
nise beneath his microscope.

" The chemical composition of protoplasm is very complex, and has not been
exactly determined. It may, however, be stated that protoplasm is essentially
a combination of albuminoid bodies, and that its principal elements are, there-
fore, oxygen, carbon, hydrogen, and nitrogen. In its typical state it presents
the condition of a semi-fluid substance — a tenacious, glairy liquid, with a
consistence somewhat like that of the white of an unboiled egg. "While we
watch it beneath the microscope movements are set up in it ; waves traverse
its surface, or it may be seen to flow away in streams, either broad and attain-
ing but a slight distance from the main mass, or else stretching away far from
their source, as narrow liquid threads, which may continue simple, or may
divide into branches, each following its own independent course ; or the
streams may flow one into the other, as streamlets would flow into rivulets
and rivulets into rivers, and this not only where gravity would carry them,
but in a direction diametrically opposed to gravitation : now we see it spread-
ing itself out on all sides into a thin liquid stratum, and again drawing itself
together within the narrow limits which had at first confined it, and all this
without any obvious impulse from without which would send the ripples over
its surface or set the streams flowing from its margin. Though it is certain
that all these phenomena are in response to some stimulus exerted on it by the
outer world, they are such as we never met with in a simply physical fluid —
they are spontaneous movements resulting from its proper irritability, from
its essential constitution as living matter. Examine it closer, bring to bear on
it the highest power of your microscope — you will probably find disseminated
through it countless multitudes of exceedingly minute granules ; but you may
also find it absolutely homogeneous, and, whether containing granules or not,
it is certain that you will find nothing to which the term organisation can be
applied. You have before you a glairy, tenacious fluid, which, if not absolutely
homogeneous, is yet totally destitute of structure. And yet no one who con-
templates this spontaneously moving matter can deny that it is alive. Liquid
as it is, it is a living liquid ; organless and structureless as it is, it manifests
the essential phenomena of life."

It is difficult to conceive of an "organless and structureless" substance
possessing life ; and it is on this particular and important point that bio-
logists have not satisfied thinkers : it is not yet satisfactorily proved that pro-
toplasm is a living substance. Huxley cherishes the conviction fondly, but
probably he has doubts and misgivings on the subject; and his position is
hit off rather happily in the following lines, published when the Association
wras sitting : —

1S79.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 445

BATHYBIUS : A LAMENT.
"Huxley (loq.) :

' "Whether you are in yourself the essence —

Potential essence of life to be —
Or merely express the amorphous presence

Of calcic sulphate, is dark to me.
I know not whether you are or are not ;

I only know that you seem to be.
I must puzzle, though others care not,

Yet puzzle is vain — I am all at sea.'

"Disciple (susp.) :

1 Broken my rest ; and torn with strange emotion

I melt in rhyme,
For a non-proven, questionable notion

Is " deep-sea slime."
Time was I worshipped, almost a fanatic,

Before his shrine ;
Invoked his aid in language truly Attic —

" Bathybius, mine ! "
But now I find this vaunted protoplasm

Excites a smile,
A doubtful kind of passing facial spasm —

And I revile ! '

Exit ' reviling.' "

More uncomplimentary things have been said about the savans of the British
Association this year than has been dared before. One paper says, "the as-
sumption of wisdom " on the part of some of the members is rather too trans-
parent ; and even the ' Standard,' one of the soberest and fairest of critics., is
mildly sarcastic on the Association. The Biologists at last, it thinks, have got
to the end of their tether; and it goes on to say, "But it may be questioned
whether, as regards the origin of life, Professor Tyndall, or Professor Huxley, can
carry us much beyond what Lord Beaconsfield once called the 'atom of Epi-
curus and the monad of Thales. ' It is for these reasons that the British Associa-
tion has probably passed the zenith of its prosperity, even if it cannot be said
to have outlived its original purposes. Of course, it will continue to exist, and
go on holding pleasant meetings year after year. Savants are mortal, and
have the gregarious tastes of humanity. They like conversaziones and luncheon
parties, and pleasant picnics to picturesque places. They are fond of reading
elaborate essays, and discussing their merits. All these good things have been
had at the meeting of the British Association this year, and are not likely to
be lost in the future. Still the fact remains that the work of the Association
as an organisation for scientific discovery and education seems to be just now
at a standstill, and that it exists mainly as an organisation for the delivery of
first-class lectures, and the pursuit of refined pleasure."

The ' Gardeners' Chronicle ' has managed to extract from one of the papers
read before the Association a passage which it hopes "will sink deeply into
the minds of the so-called practical man who professes to be guided by the
teachings of experience only," and upon whom, it might be added, your con-
temporary depends so much for its existence. Take away the practical portion
of its columns — the records of experience, crude and undigested as some of

446 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

them may be — and we wonder what would become of it ! The passage it has
found so applicable to the fraternity is as follows : —

"The history of science proves that unconnected, unsystematic, inaccurate
observations are worth nothing ; therefore it is that common experience is
almost absolutely useless in all practical arts, which, without exception,
depend for their progress upon the advance of science — that is, upon method-
ical, continuous, and scrupulously accurate observations and experiments."

"For the present," says your contemporary, " we confine ourselves to this
extract." So we may expect further complements by-and-by, when perhaps
the accurate sayings and doings of your contemporary may come under review
also.

As the season draws towards its close, we begin to gauge more accurately
the effects of the unfavourable weather upon the crops. 1879 will long be re-
membered. A competent authority in the ' Times ' reckons the loss on the
corn, potato, and bean crops alone at forty-three millions of pounds. And
this takes no account of the loss on the hay, hops, and root crops. The loss is
appalling, coming as it does after a long period of depression of trade. The
'Times 'in a leader asks: "What if next year should be like this? Bad
seasons, we are continually assured, come together, and we have been lately
told, apparently with a long retrospect and careful calculation, that in every
cycle there are several concurrent years more or less of one character, and
several concurrent years of another. If the losses in the next year be as great
as those in this, or as the average of the three years, the farmers, very few of
whom have any capital in reserve — very few of whom are not in debt — will
have to throw up their farms. The results of such a calamity as we are suffer-
ing will extend far out of the agricultural circle. Some thousands of land-
owners will have to do without rent, to reduce their establishments, put down
carriages and horses, turn off under-gardeners and labourers, dispose of their
London houses, and reduce the season to a few weeks in lodgings or to still
fewer at an hotel. They will, perhaps even less reluctantly, shut up their
country houses, and live for a year or two, without care, ostentation, or even
comfort, in Continental hotels. All this portends the discharge of many ser-
vants not very well fitted to make their way in the world, and loss of profit-
able custom to many tradesmen. Not only some kinds of industry, and some
special localities also, will suffer more than their share in such an agricultural
collapse as that which is at least not improbable. The residential neighbour-
hood of London and the watering places — that is, all the favoured resorts of
the wealthy — will feel with special force any general restriction of resources
and curtailment of expenditure."

Horticulture is now feeling the effects of the depression more keenly. A
London paper, usually well informed on such matters, states that gentlemen
and landed proprietors are very generally reducing the expenditure of their
establishments to a considerable extent, which of course means a reduction of
both men and wages in private gardens, and which has already taken place in
numerous instances.

The copious reports of the fruit crops in the 'Garden ' " tell," says that paper,
" of sad disasters to Apricot trees, owing to the remarkable season which we
have experienced. Branch-dying has been unusually prevalent, and many
trees have died outright. Peaches and Nectarines have suffered greatly from
blister, and so backward are their fruits that in many places they will never
ripen. Pears, though in some cases rusty and cracking, are better this year
than Apples, which are generally a thin crop, and the fruit still keeps drop-

1 879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 447

ping from the trees. The latter, too, are in some places almost leafless.
Cherries, with the exception of Morellos, cracked and rotted on the trees.
Even as far north as Durham, the Morello has been better on standards than
on walls — a fact worth noting, seeing that, in addition to its fruit, the growth
of the tree itself is highly ornamental. Damsons are everywhere reported to
be good, and in some places even heavy crops. Next to these stand Victoria
and the Orleans, Plums that seldom fail. Nuts are good in many places, but
Walnuts are a failure. All small fruits have been heavy crops, but flavour-
less; and Gooseberries have been in many places stripped of their leaves by
the Gooseberry caterpillar. Of little known fruits, Helena Gloede Straw-
berry is spoken of as being a valuable late kind; and Stone's Apple, a local
Kentish variety, is reported as being a sort that well deserves more extensive
cultivation than it has hitherto received. Worcester Pearmain, a beautiful
Apple, is also stated to be good."

Mr Ralph Carr Ellison, who writes interestingly on woodcraft in the
' Journal of Forestry,' makes some remarks on the subject of pruning that
may interest your readers. He says : —

" Let every large branch that is to come off be cut twice and in two places,
first a good yard or more above the place where the true amputation is to be
made. This in order to get rid of weight, and to prevent rending and splitting
near to the stem of the tree. The final cut of any limb, branch, or branchlet
should be made just above or outside of the ring-swell or encircling protuberance
of bark and wood which surrounds its butt, and so as to leave the ring-swell
untouched by the saw. The only instruments that should be used to insure
protection of the ring-swell, when a branch is to be amputated, are the saw,
the chisel and mallet, and the pocket-knife. All axes, hatchets, bills, and
billhooks should be disallowed, after Pontey's excellent advice, — for no work-
man, however dexterous, can be trusted with an edge instrument to be used
by striking. The axe is admirable for felling timber, the adze for dressing it
when felled, the light axe and hatchet for ' snedding ' small wood or cutting
coppice, but none of them are suitable for pruning. It is perfectly true that
the hardihood of our native trees enables them to live through a great deal of
hard usage and deplorable tree-surgery, in the way of slicing and scarifying ;
but the moment you apply the same freaks to tenderer subjects — to Peach and
Plum trees, to the finer varieties of Apple and Pear— you meet with your
reward in the sudden decline and death of the wounded stem and all its
cherished developments in the second or third year, if not in the first, after
the audacious operation of cutting away the ring-swell of some considerable
branch."

Perhaps the horticultural reader will agree with us that Mr Ellison rather
exaggerates the evil of ' ' cutting away the ring-swell " in the case of fruit-trees.
If we are not mistaken, the rule is more honoured in the breach than in the
observance, and is not so much as noticed by authorities on fruit culture. To
leave the ring-swell of some " considerable branch " would, in the case of some
stone fruits, be to leave a knob or protuberance which, decaying, would be very
apt to produce gumming, whereas if cut clean away it would heal over perfectly.
In the same journal we notice an experienced forester, writing on the same
subject, takes no account of the "ring-swell," but gives directions for cutting
branches off close to the trunk. Mr Carr writes pleasantly and instructively
"on the functions of the lower branches of trees," but we are afraid sometimes
hypothetically as well. Speaking on this topic, he tells us that ' ' the wisdom
in nature is never at rest till it has done something to shade or to shield the

448 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

long trunk from sunshine, wind, and evaporation. Cut away these lovely-
descending curtains, and Nature will clothe the trunk with grey lichens on
the windy-side, and with green mosses on the leeward. Scrape off these too,
and she will bid the hapless tree bear flower and seed in reckless and exhaust-
ing profusion while yet it has strength to do so. It will scatter its seed upon
the winds, to propagate its kind far and wide ; and then it will gradually
decline upon your hands, and fall a prey to canker or to fungus, to lightning
or to tempest. "

Mr Ellison verges on nonsense here. " Nature " does not do the things he
tells — at all events, with the object Mr Ellison believes and tries to make
others believe. In the first place, she produces lichens on trees in situations
where they are not required to protect the tree from either wind or sunshine —
that is, in the densest and most sheltered parts of the forest, and where it is
moistest ; and, secondly, she, as a rule, refuses to produce them where they
should be most needed, one would think — that is, upon trees in exposed situa-
tions ; and lastly, it is difficult to see how a clothing of moss or lichen is going
to shelter a tree from wind and prevent it being blown down, just as it is to
understand the connection between the scraping off of the lichen and the moss,
and the consequent destruction of the tree by " lightning or tempest."

A correspondent of a contemporary, and a gardener, who hails from the
Land's End direction, where witchcraft and superstition still survive, as one
frequently sees by the papers, states that he "plants out forced Strawberries
after the balls of earth are pummelled as hard as bricks, and tramps the ground
firmly about them after they are planted," and asks why newly-planted young
Vines "should not be treated in the same way." It maybe answered that
there is at present no law for the protection of employers who happen to have
gardeners who entertain such notions ; but in the meantime, probably, a few
cheap copies of Thomson's book on ' The Vine ' might be gratuitously, and
with great advantage, circulated in the locality from which the above inquiry
emanates. "Pummelling" pot - Strawberries and pot -Vines "as hard as
bricks," and planting both out in a soil "pummelled" to the same consistency,
is an idea that must entertain Grape-growers in the north hugely.

Reader.

THE RIPENING OF WINTER- FLOWERING PLANTS.

The rainfall of the past summer, and the thick clouds in which the sun
has been enveloped for the greater part of the season, have left gardeners
with a legacy on their hands to make up by artificial conditions the
deficiencies of a cold sunless summer before the short days of winter
are upon us.

After such a prolonged season of cold and wet, the autumn may yet
come in fine ; and if our hopes should be realised, and the heavy clouds
should disappear only for a short season, the opportunity must not be
lost to assist nature artificially to make a climate which will complete
and consolidate the growth of plants. Shade, with its attendant conse-
quences on plants, whether it be from the absence of sun and light, or
whether the latter be excluded by artificial means, permanently or in
part, forms a feature in practical gardening which is of more importance

1879.] RIPENING WINTER-FLOWERING PLANTS. 449

than many people would suppose, notwithstanding the part it plays in
the ultimate return that plants will yield in the way of flowers. The
present season has been a most difficult one to manage in this respect,
owing to the soft nature of the growth that most plants of a succulent
tendency have made, both out of doors and under glass. The rough-
and - ready makeshift of shading glass with lime, which has to
answer in ordinary seasons, is a practice that, this year, will not com-
mend itself to the observation of those who understand the influence
that solar heat and light have upon plants. On the one hand, shade is
indispensable even to plants that in ordinary seasons do not require it ;
and, on the other, the shade should be of the thinnest possible texture
compatible with safety to the plants, and be used only for a short time
during the hottest part of the day.

Plants that are planted out for the summer are the worst to manage
this season, owing to their growth being retarded by the inclement
weather in the early part of the year, and which is consequently soft,
and will require skill to perfect and mature it. This refers to Salvias,
Solanums, Eupatoriums, Deutzias, Bouvardias, &c.

The cure for these will be to have them lifted early and put under
glass in a shaded aspect, and keep them rather close and syringed until
the roots begin to work — a process which will only occupy a few days —
and then place them in the warmest and brightest position that can be
afforded them under glass, full in the sun, and set them thin enough
apart for air to play about them on all sides. It is possible that, under
the changed conditions, the plants will require a little extra attention,
especially if the days are bright ; but they will gradually become hard-
ened, and with a partial cessation of root-growth, the tissues of the
shoots will soon " fill up firm," and turn hard to the feel.
¥» Of course the tops of Solanums will have been pinched out, so that
the flow of sap will have been directed to the formation and swelling
of the berries, and other plants will have been treated according to
their several requirements.

We have a capital example of the advantages of growing plants under
glass in a season like the present, in two sets of Deutzias, which looked
dead in the beginning of last May. The plants were cut down right
to the bottom, and plunged in bottom-heat, which was increased as
symptoms of active growth appeared, and continued till the shoots had
grown to their full length and changed to a sort of greenish-white,
which is the first indication that growth is complete, and that atmo-
spheric conditions must be altered. These plants were exposed by
stages, and are now plunged full in the sun in the open air, and are as
brown as hazel ; whilst their neighbours, cut down at the same time,
and planted in a south border, are as green as Leeks.

The general body of plants for winter flowering will need more than
ordinary care this autumn in order to prepare them for the winter ; for
although they may look quite green and fresh now, their soft leaves will

450 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

not stand long when the days arrive at their shortest, unless they are
well exposed to air and light, and the natural warmth of the autumn
assisted with fire-heat.

It may also be expected, as an unpleasant contingency, that plants,
like other things, will flower late this autumn, so that the gardener had
better prepare himself for the emergency by anticipating events.

In the autumn there are Chrysanthemums which are grown by the
hundred in many gardens, but which are considered objectionable as
cut flowers in not a few places. There is, however, variety enough in
a good collection to make a fine show in the conservatory, without
drawing much upon other resources ; and this compensates for the
disfavour in which they are sometimes held as cut flowers.

Taking a rough glance at the prospect of cut flowers for early winter,
we have forced Roman Hyacinths, the old white Azalea indica, and
old plants of Bouvardias, in scarlet and white, which are indispensable
subjects in every garden.

Old plants of the latter are decidedly preferable to young ones for
autumn flowering, and should be kept growing up to about the begin-
ning of October, not in a strong heat, but in an aspect where the wood
will not turn hard, but continue to furnish an abundance of shoots,
which in turn will supply quantities of flowers of transcendant merit for
all purposes of decoration. A batch or so of Zonale Pelargoniums (old
plants) brought into heat about the same time will supply scarlet flowers
until Poinsettias and Plumbagos come in ; and a batch of spring-struck
Pelargoniums will continue to flower up to February, if kept in a cosy
little house near the glass, and well supplied with liquid manure and
plenty of fresh air. Eucharis amazonica, for supplying winter flowers,
should be chosen from the largest bulbs which have finished their
growth about the end of September, and be kept barely on the move
until the beginning of November, and plunged in a sharp bottom-heat,
when every bulb, according to its size and development, will throw up
a spike bearing from five to seven flowers. A few plants of Imanto-
phyllum miniatum treated in the same way will make a most effective
companion for the Eucharis. Large plants of Gardenias that were
cut back and pinched at two or three different times through the
summer, with a view of securing a succession of blooms for the next
six months, should be kept moving steadily ; and young plants propa-
gated this season, and intended for flowering early next summer, should
(if their buds are not already set) be kept on the dry side at a mean
temperature of 60°, so that they may set their flower-buds and progress
satisfactorily for the purposes for which they are intended. Little
plants of Torenia Fourneri, pegged down to about 6 inches high, make
handsome little bushes for vases, or front rows for stands ; and small
plants of Clerodendron fragrans are useful for the same purpose. A
batch of Begonia Fraetelli, raised from seed this season, are now coming
in useful, their deep glossy leaves and bright flowers being attractive

1879.] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 451

little subjects for mixed groups, say in company with small Maiden-
hair Ferns and Caladium argyrites brought forward for winter decora-
tion. Harrison's Musk, propagated late in the summer, and pegged over
the surface of 6-inch pots, are handsome objects for covering the sur-
face of large pot-plants when the growth hangs over the sides of the pots,
and for front lines in small conservatories they are not surpassed. A
batch of Tuberoses, when they are in stock, will help to make handsome
button-holes, and are in great request for balls and parties in the absence
of Gardenias. They require an intermediate temperature on the dry
side, and in foggy weather make sure of a dry atmosphere by keeping
the ventilators closed. Late Celosias will require to be kept near the
glass in a light situation; their feathery sprays will be found invaluable
six weeks hence for arranging with other plants and flowers. Helio-
tropes propagated in the beginning of the summer should now be fine
bushes. The last pinching will have been performed about the end of
August, and the plants being grown in the shade, will need to be grad-
ually exposed and be brought into flower in a moderate warmth about
November. These, with a bunch of Violets, a spray of Mignonette, and
a single Eucharis, will make nice little bouquets for small glasses in bed-
rooms. Dendrobium nobile that have changed to the colour of a sove-
reign will stand in a cool greenhouse full in the sun, and finish the
ripening process better than if kept in heat. Keep the plants dry at
the root when they are in a low temperature, but see that the growths
do not shrivel.

Linum irigynum is better than ever we have had it, from cuttings
sent us last June. The plants have been shaded from what little strong
blinks of sun we have had, and have been kept growing up to the
present date — September 9. The plants are free from spider, and are
quite green. This is one plant that the dull weather has accommo-
dated ; but it too will require to be hardened and solidified before the
winter.

Flowering Begonias, Justicias, Eranthemums, and all such plants
with soft leaf-growth, will have to be well hardened by " making a
long autumn " with artificial heat and warm air, and what little sun-
shine we can reasonably hope for before winter. W. Hinds.

THE AMATEURS GARDEN.

PEAS AND BEANS.

Peas for coming in the earliest out of doors are generally sown as soon
in the year as the state of the soil will admit ; but in late districts, or
when the soil is heavy or wet, or both, it is of little use putting the
seeds in the soil too early in the season, as they are liable to rot. In
favoured localities, especially on light dry soil, Peas are often enough

452 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

sown in November, and when the winter proves favourable, they come
on in advance of those sown in spring. We do not advise amateurs
generally to sow in autumn, as much trouble is necessary to bring
them through the winter, and as likely as not the result will be dis-
appointing. However, those who are anxious to have them as early as
possible may make one sowing of a hardy sort, such as Sutton's Ring-
leader, about the middle of November, and another early in January.
Those whose space is limited had better wait until well into February,
as the chances are that a full crop will be the result, which is more
than can be looked for from earlier sowings. To keep up a succession,
we find a good plan is to sow at intervals of a fortnight or three weeks,
or, in fact, just as one sowing makes its appearance we sow another, in
quantities according to the requirements of the household. In dry
summer weather it is a good plan to draw good deep drills and soak
them with water before sowing, otherwise the seed may fail to
germinate, or germinate unsatisfactorily. In favoured localities it is
customary to sow as late as the middle of June for the purpose of
prolonging the season as much as possible. These must be regarded
merely as chance crops in the great majority of northern gardens ; and
we do not advise the ordinary amateur to continue sowing after the
middle of May — and in very cold late districts, the 1st of May — unless
there is plenty of ground and an anxiety to have Peas as late as
possible.

A deep loamy soil suits the Pea best ; but good crops may be raised
in any garden-soil from light sand to heavy clay. They require to be
sown on different places yearly, as they will do very badly if sown
repeatedly on the same spot, and a proper rotation of crops will
enable the grower to do this without any special forethought. The
best crops are invariably raised on fresh land, and the best application
that can be made on heavily-manured garden ground which has been
long under garden cultivation, is fresh virgin loam. Where it is
possible to get fresh soil, it is always worth while to dig out trenches
2 feet wide and as many deep, and fill them with it, adding manure
if this is necessary. We of course refer to old gardens, where this
crop is not always satisfactory. Seasons like the past teach us that
Peas often suffer for want of water. In dry soils their growth has
been tremendous, while in ordinary seasons they are very often stin-
ted on such soils. To counteract the evil effects of drought as much as
possible, we have dug trenches, as if for Celery, and put 6 inches of
manure in the bottom, and when filling in the soil have left the centre
of the trench low, so that when water was applied the Peas got the
benefit of it, instead of its running away somewhere else, as it is apt
to do on soil sloping away from the rows and trodden water-tight ;
and the difference between Peas treated so and in the ordinary way,
in dry seasons, was very great. Our readers must have noticed, when
digging ground on which Peas have grown, that the soil is so dry that

1879.] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 453

long after the Peas have been removed the soil is still impervious to
water. This proves the necessity of floodings of water to the Pea in
dry seasons if really good Peas in good quantity be wanted. When
this is done, or even if it cannot be done, great benefit will follow a
thick mulch of sappy manure by the sides of the rows — or failing that,
short grass or anything that will check evaporation.

Peas are sometimes sown in quarters by themselves, but we think it
a much more economical plan to sow them in single rows among other
vegetables. When this is done, sun and air have freer access to every
part of the plants, and the result is a much greater amount of pro-
duce from a given length of row. In exposed gardens, when thus
sown in rows and securely staked, the rows of Peas assist other crops
by means of the shelter they afford. By sowing between other
crops there is scarcely any difficulty, in even the smallest garden, in
affording them a fresh position, and, therefore, new soil annually.
The mistake should not be made — too common among amateurs — of
planting other crops to within a foot or so of the rows of the Peas.
Three feet from the row of Peas to the nearest row of other vegetables
is little enough space, but 6 inches may be subtracted from the windward
sides of the rows and added to the leeward side, where the rows are
exposed. In our case the rows are all blown eastward. In drawing
the drills, stretch the line over the ground and draw them the full
breadth of a common draw-hoe, from 2 to 3 inches deep, and scatter
the Peas evenly at the rate of 1 lb. of Peas to 30 feet of row of the
small kinds, and 36 feet of the larger kinds. When 3 inches high,
draw a little earth to them, and stake them with stakes according to
the height of the variety, which is generally a foot or so more than
that given in catalogues, when treated liberally as we have hinted at.

Beans. — These are generally sown, for a first crop, as soon in the year
as possible, and in quantities as required at intervals of three weeks or
a month. Our remarks on soil, when speaking of Peas, apply in this
case also. There is little or no use planting Beans later than May.
Plant them in rows 2 or 2j feet apart ; in heavy soil draw drills and
plant the Beans at 3 inches apart and 2 deep ; where the soil is light
they may be dibbled in with every success.

French or Kidney Beans require very different treatment. A
sheltered spot with a good south or south-western aspect is usually
afforded those, more especially in northern districts, although on light
soils in favourable localities they do very well in the open quarters.
In seasons like this they have not done well anywhere, and in excep-
tionally favourable seasons they might do well everywhere ; but the
prudent grower will afford them the most favourable spot at command.
The small-growing varieties may be sown in drills 2 inches in depth,
as much apart, and 2 feet between the rows ; the more robust kinds
should get 3 feet. If anxious for these as early as possible, the Beans
may be planted in 3-inch pots, 2 Beans in a pot, and started and nursed

454 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

for a time in a cold frame, and afterwards planted out during a fav-
ourable spell of weather towards the end of May, when danger from
frost is past. A good time to make the first sowing is about the 1st
of May, but only then if the soil is dry and warm — for if cold and wet,
they will be apt to rot altogether, or come away very weakly at best, — so
much so that those sown a fortnight later under more favourable circum-
stances will soon surpass them. Should circumstances permit, sow at
the beginning of May, at the middle of May, at the end, and the last
sowing about the middle of June, when they can be protected from
the effects of frost, as the least frost destroys them. Our experience in
a somewhat cold late locality tells us that either earlier or later sow-
ings are, even in the best of seasons, unprofitable, and in ordinary sea-
sons quite useless.

Scarlet-Runners require treatment precisely similar, only, they grow
to a great height, and so require to be staked in the manner of Peas.
The scarlet blossoms are very ornamental, and for this reason they are
often used for training on cottage walls or over any unsightly object ;
and as they grow rapidly in ordinary seasons, they are well suited for
such purposes, besides yielding a profusion of pods exceedingly useful
for the kitchen. All leguminous plants, commonly used as food, are
distinguished by their extreme nutritiousness. Gardener.

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

THE CINERARIA.

As a decorative plant either for house or greenhouse, or for cutting
from, few plants can surpass the Cineraria. The variety and colours
of the best strains of it are very beautiful, and as the time and labour
expended in the cultivation of them must be the same, whether the
plants turn out to be good varieties or otherwise, it is worth taking
some pains to secure a good strain. For general decorative work it is
best to raise the plant from seed, as there is less trouble with them,
and they almost always show the largest heads of bloom. In order
to have a succession of flowers, a pinch of seed should be sown twice
in the year. The first sowing should be made early in February in a
well-drained pan. Sow the seed thinly, and cover with a piece of glass
in order to afford the necessary shade and closeness, until the seed be-
gins to vegetate. Allow a little air as soon as it is well brairded, so as
to harden the young seedlings. As soon as they are large enough to
handle, prick them out singly into thumb-pots, and plunge them in a
box of leaf-mould, sawdust, or cocoa-nut fibre, in order to keep them at
a proper degree of moisture and to save repeated waterings. They
must be kept at this stage in a temperature of from 55° to 60°. In
the course of a few weeks they will require shifting into larger pots,

i879-] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 455

which may be 48's, or 4-inch pots. The compost should consist of good
fibry loam and leaf-mould in equal parts, with sufficient sand to keep
all open. They must still be kept in a temperature of not less than
50°, and aired on every favourable opportunity ; also kept as near the
glass as may be convenient ; and an occasional dewing with the syringe
will refresh them very much. In the course of six weeks or so, if all
has gone well, they will require another shift, this time into the pots
they are meant to bloom in, which for ordinary work may be 6-inch or
7-inch pots, unless large specimen plants are desired, when larger pots
may be used, or better still, give another shift later on. With due
care and judicious feeding, however, almost as good plants may be
produced in a 7- or 8-inck pot as in those much larger ; and from being
more manageable, the smaller sizes are the more desirable. The soil
should be a little stronger for this shift, using less leaf-mould, and
enrich with some old cow-dung, or a pinch of bone-meal. About the
beginning of June the plants should be set in a cold frame or pit,
where abundance of air can be given ; or if in a frame, a current of
air should be allowed to play among the plants, by tilting up the
frame and putting a brick under each corner. It may be necessary to
shade them slightly for a few hours in the middle of the day, and give
a dewing with the syringe in the evenings. Keep a strict watch for
green-fly, the great pest of Cinerarias, and fumigate with tobacco-
smoke on its first appearance. Some kinds of Cineraria are more sub-
ject to the attacks of green-fly than others. The variety we grow has
smooth shiny leaves, not so woolly as some kinds we have seen, and
unless through neglect in watering, are seldom troubled with green-fly.
There is another form of disease which they are subject to sometimes —
viz., the sap exuding from the upper surface of the leaves and stems,
and drying in globules, so that the plants look as if they had been
sprinkled over with white sand. We cannot tell the cause of this, as
we have seen it on plants to all appearance in vigorous health, unless
it may have been through the plants having been subjected to too
bright sunshine. When the plants have filled their flowering pots
with roots, and begin to throw up the flower-spikes, then they may
have an occasional watering with liquid manure, say about twice a-
wTeek.

A second sowing should be made in the first week of June and
treated much in the same way, only that as soon as they have been
pricked out and established in their small pots, they may be grown on
in a cold frame or pit, and shifted as they require it ; but as they are
to stand over the winter we would not advise larger pots to be used
than 6-inch. The first batch of plants will come into bloom in the
autumn, the second in spring. By shifting on a few at a time, or by
sowing oftener, a succession of bloom may be had all the year over.
Where distinct varieties are desired for exhibition or otherwise, they
must be propagated by offsets from the old plants. To get these, the

456 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

plants, as soon as they have done flowering, should be planted out in
rich soil until they throw out shoots round the neck of the plants. A
sufficient number of these should be slipped off with a heel, and potted
up singly, plunged and shaded till they are rooted, after which they
may be subjected to much about the same treatment as described
above for seedlings. They never make such strong robust plants as
those raised from seed, and consequently will not as a rule require so
much pot-room. In the majority of cases, 6-inch pots will be quite large
enough to flower them in. There should always in any case be a pro-
portion of plants allowed to flower in 4- or 5-inch pots. These come
in very handy sometimes for filling vases, or room decoration, where
larger pots are not suitable ; and we have seen wonderfully fine heads
of bloom produced from pots of this size. There is one fact worth
remembering in regard to Cinerarias raised from seed, and the same
may apply to other subjects as well, and that is, that it is generally the
self-coloured flowers which vegetate first and grow strongest in the
seed-pan ; therefore one should not be in a hurry in throwing away the
remainder after pricking out a lot, but also take some of the later-
brairded seeds. This has never been more forcibly brought before us
than this year, when, out of a large number of plants grown, almost
without exception they turned out self-coloured flowers, though many
varieties in shades of colour. The seed was saved by ourselves, and
all from parti-coloured flowers ; the reason being that we took the
first of the seedlings ourselves, and a party who got some of the later
plants had a large proportion of fancy flowers.

J. G. W.

KALOSANTHES COCCINEA.

It is somewhat remarkable that, during the long period of time that
has elapsed since the introduction of this plant, it should have
received comparatively little attention from cultivators. A strong
proof of this statement may be adduced from the fact that it
has seldom been exhibited in a condition evincing either art or care
in its culture. It would therefore appear that many are content to
follow the old method of allowing it to assume its natural straggling
habit, being satisfied with the splendour and fragrance of a few heads
of flower as an apology for its long contorted legs. But this is a
defect in its treatment as palpably inconsistent with the beauty of
the plant as intolerable in the present improved and advanced state
of horticulture. Under such a system of culture it can only be
appreciated while it is in flower, and must, both before and after, be
assigned to a secluded position, on account of its meagre and unsightly
appearance. I may here state that it is not vague opinion but
practical operation I wish to agitate, my remarks being deduced

1879.] KALOSANTHES COCCINEA. 457

from the experience of a cultivator of distinguished repute, formerly
gardener at Mill Bank, Edinburgh, whose finest plant, exhibited in
Edinburgh, carried 317 heads of flower. In selecting cuttings, such
as have three or four shoots started at the apex should be chosen, as
in some measure they already present the rudiments of a compact
plant. I have found them to root readily out of doors during July
and August. After they are well rooted they should be kept in the
greenhouse, as in such a position they make considerable progress
during winter ; and as the plant grows continuously, if it be allowed
sufficient pot room, progressive shifting should be attended to, so
that no time may be lost. When the shoots have grown about
3 inches, their tops should be pinched off, thus giving an additional
number of shoots, which will materially tend to render the plant
seemly and promising. The following shoots may be permitted to
extend to 4 inches, when the process of topping should be again
repeated on all the shoots simultaneously, to induce uniformity by
checking its naturally rambling habit. I may here state that as this
plant at every stage of its growth is peculiarly susceptible of injury
from often repeated saturation, much discrimination as well as caution
should be exercised in studying its nature and requirements, and in
order to insure satisfactory results, the entire management should be
devolved on one individual.

Should the foregoing observations be attended to, by the month
of May in the following year it will have assumed a fine green
and clothed appearance. It may now be removed to a cold frame
as a preparatory step to its being transplanted to the open air in
June : for this purpose I prefer a place fully exposed to the sun, and
sheltered from the prevailing winds. To guard against contingencies,
the branches should be regulated and tied to stakes, as well as pro-
vision made for shading in case of strong sun. The compost which
seems best adapted for the growth of this plant is fibry loam, well-
rotted manure, and leaf-mould, in equal parts with a liberal addition
of sand : these being well mixed, but not sifted, should be used at
every subsequent transference to a larger pot, taking care at every
consecutive shift to secure perfect drainage. I may remark in regard
to shifting that the fresh earth should be packed so as to be equally
firm with the ball of the plant, in order that uniform solidity may
insure the regular absorption of moisture. The newly shifted plant
requires less moisture after the first application, and weak liquid
manure may be supplied at intervals of two or three weeks. As the
accumulating shoots progress, much compunction may be felt in
having to pinch off the tops, but if this system is not pertinaciously
adhered to, ultimate success cannot be attained. If specimens of 18

2 1

458 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

inches in diameter be thought large enough, it will be necessary to
desist from topping by the end of August, because if shortened after
this time, they do not gain sufficient strength to produce large heads
of flower the following year. But should plants of 4 feet in diameter,
to produce from 300 to 400 heads of flower, be the desideratum, it
will be proper to continue topping and shifting occasionally till the
end of August in the following year, when the operation should be
entirely discontinued. According to the system here detailed, a plant
at this stage of its growth should occupy a pot 14 inches in diameter.
The branches of the plant extending considerably beyond the rim all
round, the lower ones from their own weight having become to some
degree pendulous, these appearances render a final shift very requisite.
A pot of 18 inches in diameter will hold a sufficient quantity of
fresh earth to enable the plant to form strong flower-shoots ; and
also by potting rather deeper than usual, the pendent branches are
supported by being allowed to rest on the surface of the earth, into
which they root freely, and become important auxiliaries to the prin-
cipal roots. The final staking may be delayed till the middle of
August, when all the main shoots should be properly supported.
As the shoots grow rapidly for some time before they come into
flower, the supports should extend a little beyond their tops, so that
when the flowers are about to expand they may have the advantage
of a tie at the neck : thus secured, they may be removed to the place
allotted for them, and whether this be the parterre, veranda, or green-
house, they will continue in flower for six or seven weeks, emitting
a rich fragrance and exhibiting an appearance of beauty that is
rarely attainable in any other pot plant. In conclusion, I may
remind the readers of ' The Gardener ' that the truth of the expression,
" All that is very fair is very rare," is never more evident than when
applied to the Kalosanthes coccinea. Thomas Beid.

Chester.

HARDY FRUITS-OCTOBER.

Attention to gathering of Apples, Pears, and Nuts is now an important
matter. The fruit-room, or wherever storage is, should be dry, free from any
impurity, and vermin should be thoroughly eradicated, and no means of ingress
allowed them. The fruit are not to be taken before the usual indications are
perceived — the seeds becoming dark, the stalks T>arting easily from the tree,
and the colour well developed. The fruits should be carefully handled and
placed on the shelves, in drawers, or other quarters allotted to the keeping of
them. We see such a variety of ways and means adopted to the keeping of
fruit. Some of the large growers have them laid in heaps on floors, as some do
with potatoes. Other instances are, where each fruit is kept separate from its

1879.] HARDY FRUITS. 450

fellow, and a current of air kept passing through the house. Where specimens
are expected to be kept entirely sound, they may be kept thinly on the shelf ;
but this is by no means indispensable. When the fruits have " sweated," the
ventilators need be opened very seldom. Frequent examinations of the fruit
should be made, to see that none are decaying : where there is one left others
will soon follow. There are likely to be many fruits of inferior quality this
year, badly ripened, that will not keep. Some kinds will not be ready for
gathering till November. All trees on walls should be aided in the ripening
process where they are inclined to be late. A new broom swept lightly
over walls would take away many loose leaves which obstruct the action of
light and air. All late growths should be well trimmed off, and if the tree
goes on producing young wood, lift the roots at one side of the tree. Fibres,
when formed, are conducive to fruit-tree ripening, and fruit in abundance may
then be expected. Now is the time to prepare for next season's supply. Gross,
sappy trees may be expected to fail in setting a crop. The root-lifting, as
formerly advised, must be a matter of care, as the cutting at random of healthy
feeders is a positive evil : only long, rambling, and naked thongs should be
cut off, and all fibres placed out flat in genial soil. The whole may be made
firm, and finished neatly over the surface.

Planting may be set about without delay. Large holes, in the case of trees
isolated, may be formed ; but where plantations are formed thickly, a general
trenching may be made, and a layer of brick-rubbish under the trees, about a
foot from the surface, and the wThole firmly rammed, will do much to save the
trees from cankering, and act as an obstruction to tap-roots. Deep planting
(unless on exceptionally dry and elevated ground) is to be avoided. First have
the necessary soil at hand, and fill the hole with it within 6 inches of the
surface ; or in the case of low, damp situations, the roots may be level with
the surrounding soil. Place a stake firmly into the ground for Standards (dwarf
trees may not require props), and place the stem within a few inches of the
stake. Wrap a piece of cloth round the stake, to save the bark of the tree ;
and before the ties are put on, place a piece of cloth or leather between the
twine and the bark. Make the stem secure to the stake, which should be as
tall as the tree. Other systems of staking are practised, as may be seen among
the fruit-orchards around us ; but we prefer the former for trees which have no
balls of earth at their roots. Leave cutting of newly-planted trees till the end
of winter. Instead of choosing large collections of kinds of fruit, it is better
to select those which are fruitful and suitable to the district — and they might
be planted in quantity. As an example, we have rows of young trees just bear-
ing their first crop of fruit : they were young maidens two years ago. Among
a large collection of Apples, we have nearly three-fourths of them Lord Suffield,
Stirling Castle, Cellini, Worcestershire Pearmain, Margil, and a few others.
These may be expected every year to have plenty of fruit on them. Planta-
tions of Rasps may have all the old rods cut out, if not already done. The
rods for next year's supply should not be crowded. Lift canes for planting in
new ground. Gooseberry and Currant cuttings may be taken off, tied in small
bundles, according to name, till time allows them to be made. Strawberry
runners may be lifted and placed in store-beds, according to name. They make
good plantations in spring to give runners for forcing. The beds should be
thoroughly cleaned, leaving the plants standing individually, when manure
may be placed among them. The roots should be kept entire. M. T.

4G0 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

MARKET-GARDENING IN ESSEX.

The following brief remarks on market-gardening will, I trust, prove instruc-
tive to some of the readers of 'The Gardener,' more especially those who may
not have had an opportunity of personally observing the way in which the
markets of our great and fast extending metropolis are supplied with veget-
ables. The greater proportion of the vegetables used in the city or east end of
London are grown in Essex, which is fast becoming a complete vegetable
garden.

A more generally unfortunate season has seldom, if ever, been experienced,
and upon no one does this fall more severely than those who follow agricultural
and horticultural pursuits. Although in this immediate vicinity there are few
of what are termed market-gardeners, yet nearly or quite all the farmers grow
large quantities of the more common kinds of vegetables for London, more
especially for the Spitalrields and Borough markets. These vegetable crops are
the most expensive, but if the crops, and the prices realised, are good, they are
very remunerative, and also prove excellent preparations for the ordinary
farm crops. Peas, Runner Beans, and Potatoes are the most extensively
grown, but many grow a few acres of Turnips, Carrots, Beet, and Onions, &c.
Peas, in particular, are the most generally grown, but have not paid over well
lately. This is partly attributed, strange to say, to the slackness of trade in the
north, as well as in London, as in prosperous times many truckloads of bags
and sieves of Peas are bought up in the London markets and despatched north-
wards, better prices being the natural consequence. Early Peas are mostly
grown, as they generally pay best, and the land being cleared early, gives the
opportunity of sowing Turnips, planting Cabbage, Broccoli, &c. Sangster's No.
1 is most commonly sown, but Caractacus will eventually supersede it. Some
of the more enterprising have sown William L, and are well pleased with it.
For later supplies, Laxton's Supreme, Blue Scimitar, Yorkshire Hero, &c, are
sown. The latter is a particularly good variety, being to the farmer what
Veitch's Perfection is to the private gardener, and is one of the most, if not the
most, useful Pea in cultivation. Peas are sown on heavily manured land in drills
about 2 feet 6 inches apart, and of course no stakes are used. The growth is very
sturdy, seldom exceeding 2 feet in length, and the produce is generally heavy,
and the pod well filled. Xext in importance to Peas are Runner Beans : these,
too, are sown on land well manured, and in lines about the same distance apart
as Peas. They are thinned out to about 18 inches apart ; they are not allowed
to run, but are kept closely pinched back ; and the bloom, thrown well above
the foliage, presents a very pretty sight, extending, in some instances, over an
unbroken field 15 or more acres in extent. Treated in this way, they are
picked from much earlier than in private gardens. This season they com-
menced picking the first week in August — nearly a month later than last year.
The growers experienced very great difficulty in getting a good plant, — the
seed rotting in the ground in the first instance, and slugs destroying those
that did vegetate. It has.also been very difficult to keep them clear of wreeds.
The large podded varieties are mostly grown, but some of the salesmen, who
are also growers, have found the small podded varieties the most profitable, as
they fetch better prices, and oftentimes selling when the coarser ones will not,
and being smaller, are produced in greater profusion. The farmers, as a rule, sell
their crops of Peas and Beans early in the season as they stand, either to the
market salesmen or other speculative persons, who in their turn employ gangs
consisting of men, women, and children, many of whom come out of towns

i879-] MARKET-GARDENING IN ESSEX. 4G1

"for the season" (one buyer I am acquainted with rthis season employed
120 pickers), who either work by the day or by measure. Sieves and bags
are provided by the salesmen, the charge for which is included in their com-
mission. The best prices for Peas in this district was £12 per acre, and for
Runner Beans £15 per acre. The latter is a long price as the season will
be short, as, of course, the first severe frost destroys them, and we have already
(4th Sept.) had some frosty nights.

Potatoes is another expensive crop, and will, I am afraid, pay very badly,
disease being very prevalent, which has caused many to lift and sell early at a
rather low figure. Those who fortunately have a good crop of late Potatoes
will get good prices for them, but this will fall to the lot of but few. Early
Dons, Early Rose, and Shaws are grown for the early supply, these being
followed with Victoria and other Regents. Rocks, and Scotch Champion Red
Skin, Flourhall, would not sell well last season, but many regret not having
planted any this season, as such vigorous varieties only appear capable of with-
standing the disease. Sutton's Magnum Bonum will eventually become a
popular variety, as with us it is the only variety that has withstood the
disease, and this will have the effect of bringing it into prominence. Last
winter Turnips of any description realised high prices, as also did Carrots,
Leeks, and Onions, being in great demand for soup making (which is more
extensively made during cold weather), but as soon as the wTeather became
mild, it did not pay to send them up. Onions are an expensive crop, on ac-
count of the cost of seed, the amount of manure, and the hand- work requisite
to secure a heavy crop. They kept badly last winter, and probably will be
still worse to keep this season, as they are very backward. Where nitrate of
soda was used as a manure they are still remarkably green. I have my doubts
about their keeping, and shall make inquiries on the subject. Onions are often-
times sown broadcast, and stand thickly on the ground. During the past
winter "green stuff" of every description realised extraordinary high prices,
this included much that was really sown for sheep-feed, such as Rape, Turnip-
tops, &c. Small Cabbages were sold in the market at one penny a piece, the
consumers having to pay threepence for them ; and other species of the Bras-
sica tribe realised proportionate high prices. Much that sold readily would
not during some seasons pay for the carriage up, and I very much doubt if so
great a quantity of stalks and leaves were ever eaten in London before.

Nearer London there are large farms given up entirely to growing vegetables,
and it is among these that gardeners can gain the most practical information.
The quantity of vegetables grown on a comparative small area is something
extraordinary. Rotation of crops is to a certain extent, but not strictly, carried
out, neither is it necessary, as they use immense quantities of manure, which
is being constantly brought to them by water, railway, and traction engines,
not three parts exhausted, as that too often used by private gardeners is, but
strong fresh manure only sufficiently decomposed to render it workable. With
the help of this the soil can be constantly cropped (and must be too, or it will
soon be too rich for anything) and the crops are much stimulated, Cabbages
especially coming off very quickly. Failing these heavy supplies of manure,
it is absolutely necessary to rotate with such crops as Rye, Turnips, Rape, &c,
to be fed on by sheep, and thus to a certain extent restoring the fertility to the
soil previously much exhausted by a vegetable crop.

Late Potatoes are frequently planted with the spade between Cabbage ; and
the earliest Peas I saw this season were dibbled in in a similar position. The
Cabbage in this instance evidently affording protection to the growth and

462 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

warmth to the root, taking up much moisture, which in other instances proved
so disastrous to the Pea crop. Celery often follows Cabbage, and is planted
direct from the seed bed into trenches principally prepared by horse power.
The sides of the trench is made sloping, and oftentimes are planted with Let-
tuce or Coleworts. A line of Kidney Beans is sown between the trenches
(which are about 4 feet apax*t) and on each side of these a row of Lettuce.
Kidney Beans are grown principally for the large firms of pickle makers, as
they wont sell when Runner Beans are plentiful. The best for market pur-
poses is the Negro Longpod, and the Newington Wonder for pickling. For
the latter purpose one grower contracts to supply 60 tons of beans, but I
very much question his ability to grow them this season. Many more facts
and hints might be included, but I have already taken up more room than I
anticipated, and will therefore as briefly as possible give a few notes on fruit
growing.

Essex is not so much a fruit growing county as is Kent on the opposite side
of the Thames, but there are many excellent orchards, and many others are
fast being planted. Black Currants and Damson always sell well, the latter
if only for making a dye ; and the former is perhaps the greatest favourite of
any fruit for making into jam. This season, too, a large quantity of Black Cur-
rants were exported. As a consequence men "with their wits about them "
are planting both extensively, as they don't believe in the chance of the mar-
kets being overdone with them. There is a great difference in the varieties of
Damson; although apparently alike, some being much more prolific than others.
If this was not so, the above mentioned practical men would not go to the ex-
pense of having them from near Maidstone in Kent when they could get them
so much cheaper nearer home. The same men buy Black Currant bushes rather
than lose time by propagating their own, and nurserymen in these districts
annually sell large quantities of them. A strong clayey loam appears to suit
them best, and on such soil the growers find it necessary to cut back the first
year, as they invariably push up plenty of young growth from the stem, and
also produce nearly enough fruit the first year to pay for the plant. Goose-
berries are usually a good paying crop, most importance being attached to the
prices realised for them when picked in a green state. Opinions vary as to the
advisability of having long or short stems, some considering the latter less
liable to canker ; but the fruit is much cleaner on the former, and in this dis-
trict they do not canker. Strong pithy growth is discarded at propagating
time, moderate, well-ripened growth being found to make the best and most
productive bushes. The varieties most commonly grown are Whitesmith,
Warrington, Crown Bob, and Golden Drop. Bullfinches are kept down with
the gun. Red and Black Currants, Gooseberries, Raspberries, and sometimes
Strawberries and Asparagus are all grown between the lines of Standard
Apples, Pears, &c. , and apparently are none the worse in that they are under-
growth. Of course the overhanging trees are not allowed to get very large,
and the bushes are kept well thinned out, and, what is of primary importance,
receive liberal mulchings of good manure — a proceeding too often neglected in
private where fortunately there is a properly arranged fruit quarter. The
lines of standard trees are about 18 feet apart, and are planted the same dis-
tance apart in the row\ Three rows of bushes are planted between these lines,
and the intervening spaces between each tree are also planted. The Asparagus
is planted also in lines, without any extra preparation, but liberal mulchings
are given, and the produce is equal to that grown on expensively prepared
beds. Asparagus is a very remunerative crop. Fruit of all descriptions as a

1879.] MARKET-GARDENING IN ESSEX. 463

rule sell the most readily if they will do either for cooking or dessert purposes;
this applies particularly to Apples and Plums, and as they are usually the
most productive, are as a consequence most extensively planted. Some of the
most productive Apples are the Keswick and Manx Codlin, Lord Suffield,
Hawthornden, Wellington, Warner's King ("a good sauce apple"), Cellini
Pippin, Keinette du Canada, Lemon Pippin, Blenheim Orange, King of the
Pippins, Cellini, Red Quarrenden, Fearn's Pippin and Cox's Orange Pippin —
all of which I have lately seen carrying, for the year, good crops of fruit,
many of which are being fast sent into the markets. Of Pears the most prolific
this season are the Hazel, Williams' Bon Chretien, Crassane, Duchesse
D'Angouleme, and Beurre Ranee. Other varieties grown are Louis Bonne of
Jersey, Beurre Diel, Beurre Easter (this seldom produces good fruit on stan-
dards and are being fast weeded out), Chaumontel, Hacon's Incomparable,
Beurre d'Aremberg, and the Autumn Bergamot. Of Plums the most pro-
fitable to grow are the Victoria, Pond's Seedling, Mitchelson's Prince of
Wales, Early Rivers, Coe's Golden Drop, Green Gage, and Washington. Of
Cherries the Kentish, Morello, Bigarreau, May Duke, and Elton are most
commonly grown, and both these and Plums have borne a fair crop this season.
Filberts are not much grown in these districts, but would, I am convinced,
pay well, especially if they received the same high cultivation as they do in
Kent. Strawberries, when well grown, invariably pay well, any soil, providing
the subsoil is tolerably cool, appearing to suit them ; the grand secret being to
get a few varieties that succeed best on any particular soil, sticking to them,
and growing extensively. The most successful grower, who in fact makes a
speciality of it, grows but three varieties — Alice Maud, British Queen, and
Eleanor — and nothing could be better than these. Three miles from this
farm neither of the varieties succeed well, but Stirling Castle, President, and
Dr Hogg are good substitutes. The former will eventually be replaced by
Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury, which is found to be very productive and good
for the early supply. Sir J. Paxton sells well, but is of too luxuriant growth
to be profitable. The above mentioned grower devotes 30 acres to Straw-
berry culture, and during the season employs upwards of 100 pickers.
The best fruit are carefully packed in punnetts which hold about 1 lb.
weight, and these are tightly packed in shallow boxes, and being carefully
handled by the railway officials, &c, arrive at the markets in good condition.
Packed in this manner I have seen plenty of good fruit come up to the metro-
politan markets from Hampshire apparently not much the worse for the jour-
ney. The bloom is kept closely pinched off the young Strawberries the first
year, the second year they produce the earliest and finest fruit, and the
heaviest crop on their third and last year — being then ploughed up as soon
as the runners from them are fit for planting.

It is a well-known fact that many gardeners start as nurserymen on their
own responsibility, often ending, I am sorry to say, in their being obliged to
return to their old occupation, seeing when too late the folly of giving up what
was perhaps a comfortable situation for an uncertain livelihood. This being
the case, it may not be thought presumptuous in me if I suggest to those who
are bent upon being " independent," the advisability of their turning their at-
tention to growing fruit and vegetables for market. What is necessary is a
fair amount of capital and a good practical knowledge of their profession,
without both of which they had better not attempt it.

W. Iggulden.

4G4 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

TUBEROUS BEGONIAS AS BEDDING - PLANTS.
One of the many tilings that will make the summer of 1879 memorable
in the experience of gardeners is the comparative, indeed total, failure
of many tender plants that in ordinary seasons have done well in
flower gardening, after the fashion which has been so popular for the
last forty years. Any plants, therefore, that have done anything
approaching to " well," in spite of the unprecedented rain, absence of
sunshine, and consequent cold which has prevailed this year, are cer-
tainly worthy of being noted as plants that will be most likely to give
satisfaction in ordinary seasons.

Tuberous Begonias have sprung into a very prominent place as
decorative plants in pots under glass. For this purpose they are
superb ; and from our own experience of the behaviour of some 500
or 600 planted out this wonderful summer in by no means a favoured
locality, we do not hesitate to pronounce them superb bedding-plants
as well. Through storm and rain and dull weather they have grown
and flowered much better than anything except Violas and Harrison's
Musk. The impunity with which they stand long downpours of rain
is such as we would not have credited had we not proved it. We do not
know of any bedding-plant — not even excepting Violas — that sustain
less damage from heavy rains ; and notwithstanding the coldness of the
season, they have grown better than Geraniums have done. On the
1st of September they were stiff with frost, and in bending the leaves,
ice as thick as a threepenny piece scaled off them, and neither in
leaf nor flower did they suffer from it.

For wet localities we consider that they will become invaluable for
bedding, and take to some extent the place of Scarlet Geraniums.
Begonias are so easily raised from seed, that they can be quickly got
up, — a pinch of seed sown in heat the last week in January, and
forwarded by the usual system of pricking ; and if the plants are ulti-
mately potted singly into 4- and 5-inch pots, they can be planted out
early in June — strong plants that will make an early display. They
like rich soil, and wherever planted this condition should be seen to.

Sedenii is what we consider the best type of a bedding Begonia,
and all our seedlings raised from it are of good habit and the most
productive of flowers of a telling colour. Consequently we are saving
seed carefully from this variety for bedding next season. Charles Raes
are equally good ; and for a deep rich scarlet, Monarch must be a good
parent.

NOTES ON THE HOLLYHOCK.

At the commencement of this year Mr Brotherston gave us an article
on the culture of the Hollyhock, and as his experience of this grand
old flower was unfortunately the same as that of too many of its cul-
tivators, I thought at the time that a few notes as to what had come

i879-] NOTES ON THE HOLLYHOCK. 465

under my own observation might be useful. However, I considered
it best, with reference to the disease which of late years has attacked
this plant, to postpone any, remarks until I had the results of this
season before me. The disease, or more properly fungus, first made
its appearance with me in the autumn of 1877; but I could not alto-
gether consider it to be imported, seeing that no new plants had
been received for three years previously. Of course I had heard
alarming accounts of it before this time, but, luckily, never had any-
thing to do with it— not even having seen it until the spring of that
year, when, looking over a nurseryman's stock, and having some very
fine varieties, I naturally felt rather anxious and very unwilling to
consign them to the fire-heap, but at once removed the few leaves on
which the disease had shown itself, and continued doing so until they
were done blooming. Having a plentiful supply of young plants on
which the disease had not shown itself, these were planted out in
autumn, and I decided to allow the old diseased ones to remain for
another season. A few died out through the winter, but the others
pushed away quite strong and healthy like, when, about the middle of
July, the enemy made its appearance, this time in much stronger force.
However, not being altogether dependent on these plants, I commenced
with the old remedy, cutting off the leaves, and by the beginning of
September many of them were denuded to such an extent as almost to
resemble so many bare stakes with flowers stuck on. Many would
naturally suppose, as I did, that this operation was of itself enough to
cause death, and that the cure, if not worse, was at all events equally
as bad as the disease. There is no doubt it weakens them, but I fed
well, and in the end the flowers, although perhaps a little smaller, were
as fine as ever they had been before — at least I could detect very
little difference ; and, in fact, with the exception of a very few, my
blooms for exhibition last year were taken from those diseased plants,
and the prize ticket proved what they were. Still continuing my ex-
periment, I had them lifted last autumn and transferred to a different
position and planted in pits filled with a specially prepared compost,
the ground previously having been trenched and manured. The result
this year promises to be quite satisfactory, and so far as disease is
concerned, not a single speck has yet made its appearance, and the
growth is something wonderful, so that I am in hopes that it is possible
to prevent the disease spreading, if not altogether to cure it and stamp
it out, without sacrificing the plants. Mr Brotherston mentions the
fact of the fungus being quite common on the Mallow, and this should
be a warning to Hollyhock growers, as it seems to be at home on this
plant, and ought to be carefully watched. We have no Mallows nearer
than a mile, and on the ground of a different proprietor; but what does
Mr B. think of the common Groundsel, which is often entirely covered
by a similar fungus, but whether identical with that on the Hollyhock
or Mallow, I cannot say. Robert Stevens.

466 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

The past season has been from beginning to end unsatisfactory in
every sense, those flowers which have thriven under the continued
attentions of Jupiter Pluvius having been very few indeed. Of these,
East Lothian Stocks have been particularly fine with us. Koniga,
Cerastium, Polemonium variegatum, and Golden Feather pyrethrum,
about complete the number. Violas and Pansies have been failures,
with the one exception of " Duchess of Sutherland " — one of Messrs
Downie &, Laird's introductions — which we find one of the very finest
kinds ; it is clear light-blue in colour, robust in health, and continuous
in its flowering. No better kind has passed through our hands since
"Alpha " and "Sovereign " were introduced ; and it will take its place
beside these as a standard sort. Verbenas have been equally bad, or
even worse than Violas, with the exception of V. venosa : these have
been without flowers, and pretty well without having made any growth.
Calceolarias : the few grown have done pretty well ; but the ravages
the disease makes amongst these causes one to be very chary in using
them to any extent. Geraniums have been comparatively innocent of
flower, and have caused a sad blank in the arrangements. Lobelias
have grown pretty freely. Those who have not got the following
sorts would to well to do so : L. magnifica, a kind which ought to
be well known by this time ; L. Brighton, a clear blue, dwarf and
spreading in habit, a grand kind ; L. defiance, magenta, in habit per-
fection, and well worth looking after. These three sorts can be recom-
mended as certain to please. Of Alternantheras, the only sorts which
have grown are magnifica and amabilis, both very " much of a much-
ness." Iresine Lindeni has not grown much, and not coloured. Four
Grasses worthy of being extensively grown are the upright-growing
variety of Dactylis glomerata variegata ; Festuca glauca, a bluish
grass, and very attractive ; Phalaris arundinacea, the old kind known
as " the Gardener's Garter ; " and the exceedingly pretty Isolepis gra-
cilis— for a dividing-line betwixt dwarf and rougher growing plants
this cannot be excelled. A line of this, planted with Ageratum "Her
Majesty " alternately, has attracted attention through its chaste appear-
ance. Dwarf Chrysanthemum Asters have proved very useful this
autumn. These are now very rich in colour in some varieties, and have
stood the weather a long time.

Prompt attention must now be given to get stock in good condition
to pass the winter. If Geraniums, Verbenas, and other plants, which
do best propagated as early as possible in the autumn, are now well
rooted, they ought to be kept as cool as possible, and left out of doors,
or, at least, uncovered by glass as late as possible. If, on the other
hand, they are not rooted satisfactorily, they should be one and all
placed in a growing temperature at once — from 55° to 60° will do,
with ventilation. In such a medium they will soon be rooted, but it

1879.J THINNING AND MULCHING ROSES. 467

will be necessary to keep them gently on the move throughout the
winter, where heat has to be resorted to in order to get them estab-
lished. All kinds of bedding plants not previously put in to strike,
should be got in without delay, in order to get somewhat established
before the winter is on us. Calceolarias can be left till the end of the
month ; but Violas should be left no later. Gladioli should be lifted
and ripened in vineries, as there is not the slightest likelihood of their
doing so out of doors this season. The soil clinging to the roots should
be left, as it keeps the bulbs from getting shrivelled. Dahlias should
be watched and lifted before being hurt by frost : these have been
absolutely without effect this season.

Where spring-flowering plants and bulbs occupy the places of the
autumn-flowering plants, it is advisable to get these planted as soon as
beds begin to look shabby. The middle of October, generally, is quite
as late as this should be deferred. Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocuses,
Narcissus, &c, can all be planted at same time, leaving them of
course till all the plants are into their places. As a rule, these
bulbous flowering-plants should be dotted amongst dwarf-flowering or
foliage plants, more especially where the beds are open to inspection
throughout the winter. In any case it is best to carpet the ground
with green Sedums or mossy Saxifrages. It is, however, a matter to
be considered whether it pays to keep a display of spring-flowering
and autumn-flowering plants in the same beds : very commonly both
are failures, and, at the best, one of the seasons' display is apt to be
neglected. There is far too much required in these go-ahead times ;
and as long as two and two make four it will continue to be an im-
possibility to obtain more from Nature than she will give.

Phloxes should now be broken up and planted in deeply-trenched
rich ground, Carnations finished potting up, Rose cuttings put in to
strike on a warm border, and everything prepared for the coming
winter. R. P. Beotheeston.

THINNING AND MULCHING ROSES IN AUTUMN.

Peehaps there is no other branch of nursery business in Great Britain
in which there is such a general interest taken as in propagating and
cultivating the Rose. Thousands are grown annually, and thousands
are killed by those fell destroyers, soil and climate, both of which are
seldom found suitable in the same garden. Reference need hardly be
made to the soil best adapted to the cultivation of the Rose, but there
is one important operation which should receive attention in the early
autumn — viz., thinning the shoots something after the way we thin
out Raspberry plantations, and expose a limited number of shoots both
to sun and light, — and mulching the surface of the beds can hardly be
said to be of secondary consideration. In light soils, especially, which

4G8 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

are soon drained of moisture, mulching is of the first importance.
Although we must not grumble about moisture this season — we have
had enough and to spare — still the operations alluded to are just as
necessary this year, on account of the influence that sudden transitions
of temperature have upon plants : no roots will venture near the surface
where every particle of moisture is licked up by evaporation at short
intervals. We must therefore, if we wish to keep roots out of a
hungry subsoil, bring them to the surface and feed them there with
such rich stimulating manures as are most convenient to hand.

With regard to thinning the shoots, the principle is in no way dif-
ferent from that employed in fruit-growing.

Take a Rose-tree with from a dozen to eighteen shoots in different
stages of growth, perhaps with several of the limbs barely alive — these
are supported and maintained from the same source as the healthy
shoots, — cut away all the weakly portions and diseased limbs early in
the autumn, and you take out a new lease of life for the portion of the
bush that remains. The work is simply one of concentration. The
number of growths being reduced, they shoot along with increased
vigour, and form large plump eyes, solid and matured by generous
treatment at the root, and thoroughly ripened by the action of the
weather. W. Hinds.

A SUGGESTION.

JSTowadays, when everything possible is being done to facilitate the
acquisition of knowledge by members of any particular craft or pro-
fession, I would suggest that concessions should be made in con-
nection with public horticultural societies, by which journeymen
would become members on the payment of say one shilling per
annum, and be entitled to certain privileges, such as gratis admission
to all the Shows, and be allowed to enter as competitors in certain
classes for which they would be eligible ; and probably, in the case
of very flourishing societies, a special class or two could be provided
for journeymen and foremen, the latter of which should be entitled
to the same privileges as the former on the annual payment of, say,
one shilling and sixpence.

This system, if adopted, thrown open, and made known to all the
young uuder-gardeners in the country, would, I am confident, be highly
successful, and prove a great advantage not only to Societies but
also to young men, whose present interests in horticultural exhibitions
would thereby become enhanced, and their professional tastes con-
siderably elevated. In short, I think it would be one of the greatest
boons that could possibly be conferred on those young men who are
aspiring to fill in a satisfactory manner the positions of, or similar

i879-] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 469

positions to, those now occupied by the men under whom they serve,
and upon whom, indeed, they must depend for their chief source of
practical information.

It might be argued that were this suggestion acted upon, a number
of anomalies not easily dealt with would arise ; but, for my part, I
fail to see that any intolerable incongruities could possibly occur that
might be detrimental to the interests of the Societies. On the other
hand, I firmly believe that the Societies would be strengthened
financially, and the present members would be gratified to know
that they were encouraging in no mean way that love for the profes-
sion which must dwell in the breast of every young gardener who
aspires to the attainment of giving satisfaction to those whom he may
in future have to serve in the capacity of gardener. At any rate,
it would be highly desirable to hear the opinions of more influential
men and young gardeners too upon this subject, as I think it worthy
of every intelligent gardener's careful consideration. If a society like
"The Royal Caledonian Horticultural" were to take the initiative, I
am bound to say others would speedily follow. James Boyd.

MOUNTMELYILLE GARDENS.

HEATING- BY HOT WATER.

I do not intend to encroach upon your space to discuss further what
has been termed the side issues of this question, as they are compara-
tively unimportant. Mr Hammond differs from me when I say that a
house situated above the level of others will be the hottest. He does
not think that that proves anything in favour of elevation increasing
circulation. It only proves that the hotter water gets there. He also
says that " it is not a well-known fact that a house situated above the
level of the others in a range is the hottest ; " and probably it may not
be so in all cases — that may depend a little on the arrangement — but
I could point to many practical examples in support of my statement
if it were necessary. I may remark that I merely stated that as a
practical illustration of the fact that elevation increases circulation,
thinking that it was self-evident to all gardeners. But though the
practical workings of different apparatus may be disputed as not
being uniform, the principle upon which hot water circulates remains
unaltered. I will now deal with what Mr Hammond considers the
points of practical value at issue on this subject ; but first, I may
remark that if what Mr Makenzie has already written on the subject^
with his numerous quotations from the best authorities, does not con-
vince Mr Hammond that he is in error, I despair of being able to do
so. He asks, " Is a continuous rise in the flow from the top of the
boiler to the furthest points of extension in the compartments to be

470 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

heated essential to rapid circulation ?" hi answer to this question, I
agree with Mr Hammond that it is not essential to circulation, but in
my opinion is most convenient in general practice. What I contend
is, that elevation is essential to rapid circulation, but I differ with him
when he says that in place of it being essential the continuous rise is a
hindrance to circulation. I hold that it makes not the least difference
whether the rise be vertical or gradual, if the height and difference
between the mean temperatures or densities of the ascending and
descending volumes of water be the same. If Mr Hammond can
prove that the circulation will be less rapid under these circumstances,
I will submit that a gradual rise hinders circulation ; but if he fails to
prove that, as I predict he will, then of what avail is all Mr Hammond's
talk about an imaginary return current hindering circulation in a gra-
dient rise 1 [Is it imaginary ? — Ed.] Lastly, he asks, " Is it necessary
or essential to rapid circulation that the top of the boiler should be
below the main body of flow and return pipes whether there is only
one house to heat or a range of houses ? " In answer to that question,
I may say that that would depend on the height of the boiler and what
Mr Hammond may consider a " rapid circulation." If I understand
Mr Hammond to mean what he stated in the February number, that
the circulation will be as rapid with the bottom of the boiler one foot
below the level of the return as if it were several feet deeper, then I
must again differ with him. I maintain that the circulation in hot-
water pipes increases in proportion to the difference of weight or pres-
sure between the ascending and descending volumes of water on the
base. Now this difference of pressure is increased in two ways : by
raising the elevation, and also, to a limited extent, by increasing the
difference between the mean temperatures of the two volumes of
water. Mr Hammond thinks that the circulation will be as rapid
with the bottom of the boiler one foot below the level of the return
as if it were several feet deeper. Now it is plain that the water before
entering the boiler is at its lowest temperature, and consequently at its
greatest density. And as it has been already stated that the pressure
of a liquid on a given base is measured by the vertical height or depth
and density, independent of the shape of the vessel or the quantity of
water which it may contain, hence it is evident that the greater the
fall before entering at the bottom of the boiler, the greater is the dif-
ference of pressure and gain of power to counterbalance the lighter
volume in the flow. This will appear more plain when we consider
that it is only the ascending and descending volumes, equal to the
vertical height, that press on the base, and therefore act on circulation.
Now, as an illustration of the fact that elevation increases circulation,
we will take for example an apparatus with an elevation of 4 feet : we
will suppose the mean temperature of the ascending column of the flow
is at the temperature of 98° Fahr., and that of the descending column
of the return at 62° ; the pressure on the base of the water in the flow

1879.] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 471

at the temperature of 98° in a 4-inch pipe 4 feet high is approximately
equal to 344.72063918 ounces avoirdupois, and that of the return is
equal to 348.17828489 oz. The difference between the pressures is
3.45764571 oz. Now suppose we raise the elevation to 8 feet, the
pressure of the flow is increased to 689.44127836 oz., and that of the
return to 696.35656978 oz. The difference of pressure is 6.91529142.
Hence we see that the difference of pressure at 8 feet is double that at
4 feet. But with the same source of heat, circulation would not be
doubled, as it is plain that the difference between the mean temperatures
of the two volumes becomes less as the rapidity of circulation increases.
Thus we see that the rapidity of circulation increases in proportion to
the difference of pressure on the base, and that the difference of pres-
sure is increased by elevation. I will not trespass further on your
valuable space; but I may say, in conclusion, that though what has been
said may not convince Mr Hammond that he is in error, it may help
to convince some of your intelligent readers who may have any doubts
on the subject. C. M.

I received a few days ago a copy of the August number of ' The
Gardener,' and was so interested in the articles it contained on heat-
ing by hot water, that I at once procured all the earlier numbers
having reference to the subject. Allow me at once to say that I agree
with most of the views so clearly expressed by Mr Makenzie, and
most especially with that as to the obligation we hot-water engineers
should be under to Mr Hammond, if he is able to show us a method
by which three or more houses can be heated from one boiler without
a deep stoke-hole. I presume I am right in confining the discussion
within these limits, as it is, I believe, admitted by all engineers that
where only one, and occasionally two houses, have to be heated, it is
easy to obtain a satisfactory result with the boiler level with, or even
above, the pipes. I shall be glad to supplement Mr Makenzie's list
of heating apparatus so erected during the last fifteen years.

Mr Hammond wishes, in his last, to confine the discussion to two
points. Respecting the first, he gives some reasons why he says no ;
but I fail to see an explanation in any of his letters as to how more
than two compartments or houses can be heated as he proposes, with
bottom of boiler only 1 foot below the pipes. He admits that outside
paths cannot be crossed, but is silent as to inside paths. Will he
kindly answer Mr Makenzie's question, p. 231, as to inside paths 1

Glass houses are, or should be, arranged so that plants may be
grown successfully, with the greatest economy of labour possible, not
to put hot-water apparatus in ; and a system which will not admit of
doors and paths being placed where required is at once condemned,
even if the water does circulate the best in that form. Then, again,
with a continuous fall from boiler, the placing of pipes under stages

472 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

and in other confined places is more awkward, as they fall from the
point where they enter the house to the far end, and then continue to
fall in the return, thus taking up twice the height compared with pipes
that rise to the far end and fall in the return— a fact alone which would
often entail great trouble in a long house. It appears to me that Mr
Hammond has left out one very important fact in his theory — I say
theory, because I find no statement that he has succeeded in heating a
range of houses on his plan ; if he has, I shall be only too glad to make
the journey north to see the apparatus at work, if he will kindly per-
mit me — and that is, air.

Water, when heated in the boiler, gives off air in greater or less pro-
portions ; and that it continues to do so after it leaves the boiler, or that
it at least carries the air with it for some distance, is proved by the fact
that, in a large apparatus having air-cocks instead of open air-pipes,
air is found to accumulate at all the cocks, even those most distant,
and not at that only where it would the most easily go in leaving the
boiler. Now the retarding of the circulation by friction is so much
greater where the water has to pass under confined air than when
passing under the upper surface of pipe, that I have known it stopped
on one side of a house where there was a slight inequality (often not a
quarter of an inch) in the rise of the pipes, which allowed the air to
accumulate ; on removing the inequality, the water at once circulated
properly. Yet Mr Hammond advocates an arrangement of pipes in
which every particle of air which passes beyond the highest point above
the boiler has to fight its way back against the flow of the water to
that point before it can escape. Has he ever watched the air under
the ice covering a stream ? I have ; and the way in which a large
bubble, detached by the stream from air accumulated at a high point,
was carried down, struggled part of the way back to be carried down
again, until it often took it minutes to regain its place, taught me that
it could not be wise to expend the force of the flow of hot water in
contending with the inclination of air to reach the highest point. Why
not allow the air to go the same way with the water ? He will say,
" Why not then let the water rise the whole way until it is about to
re-enter the boiler if you are correct 1 " I would, if the houses were
built for the pipes, and not the pipes for the houses. Careful experi-
ments were made near Derby by a gentleman in heating a large factory
where it was possible to arrange the pipes either to rise to the highest
point at first or at last ; he tried both, and proved to his satisfaction
at least, that the circulation was quicker, and that less coal was re-
quired to maintain the same heat in the room, with the latter arrange-
ment.

When the hot water leaves a boiler it must be replaced with other
water out of the return-pipe, and the quicker it is replaced the quicker
will be the circulation. Does Mr Hammond intend to state that water
in the return-pipe will fail to fill the vacuum caused in boiler by the

1879] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 473

rise of the heated water in the same time, if it have only an inclination
of 1 foot in 100, as if it had 10 feet to fall in the same length ? If so,
all rivers would flow at the same speed. In conclusion, I should be
like Mr Makenzie, only too pleased to hear of a system which would
give us a quick circulation through a large system of pipes without
a deep stoke-hole ; but I fail to find any evidence in either the argu-
ments or statements of Mr Hammond to prove that he has made the
discovery. Henry J. Pearson.

Beeston, Notts.

I daresay both you and most of your readers are heartily tired of this discus-
sion. Although the subject is a most important one, it has been well ventilated,
aud I think may now be safely left in the hands of those whose business or
pleasure lead them to carry into practice the various forms of apparatus
recommended.

Allow me very shortly to notice one or two points brought forward in the
several communications which appeared in your last. In reply to one state-
ment of Mr Stevens's, in reference to "pressure or gravitation," if he will
think the matter out a little further, he will find that this pressure or gravita-
tion—which he evidently thinks has nothing to do with the circulation of the
water — has not only to do with it, but is the sole aDd only cause of the upward
motion in the flow-pipe. I tried to make this plain in my last, and if I have
failed it is not because such is not the case, but because of my inability to put
the matter in as clear a light as I should have wished. This same inability to
simplify a somewhat abstruse subject is no doubt the cause of Mr Stevens's
not comprehending my reference to friction. His remarks about it having
been proved by "Albion" and others that a continuous ascent is not necessary,
are, to say the least of it, misleading. From the very first I admitted that
there is no necessity for the pipes having a continuous ascent ; indeed, I do not
recollect that any of your correspondents took up this position, — the opposite is
the case. Mr Hammond and some others asserted that a continuous or vertical
rise is a hindrance to the circulation, and is the cause of repeated failures in
the working of hot-water apparatus. I repeat that I can point to many appar-
atus, fitted up by my own firm and others, where nearly the whole, as it were,
is a return-pipe, while there are others where nearly the whole piping is a flow-
pipe, both systems working admirably. There are one or two things in Messrs
Hamiltons' letter to which I wish to refer, although I am not particularly alluded
to. It must not be concluded that because the houses nearest the boiler heat
easiest it establishes any principle. I can conceive several possible explana-
tions of this ; and if Messrs Hamilton were to call in a properly -qualified
engineer, I have no doubt their apparatus could be made to work quite satis-
factorily with very little expense, — at least I know one who would be quite
prepared to undertake to do so on the safe principle of "No cure, no pay."
If Messrs Hamilton, however, state the quantity of piping correctly at 8500
feet, I beg to point out to them that the " Climax" boiler of Messrs Hartley
and Sugden (I presume " Barr and Sugden" is a slip — there is no such firm of
boiler-makers), of the largest size— viz., 5 feet — is only given out to heat, ap~
proximately , 4000 feet ; and where there are so many circulations, I certainly
would never think of loading them above 2500 each. Any amount of failures,
through causes probably never suspected, will never prove that, given two

474 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

circulations of hot-water pipes, one 20 feet and the other 4 feet above the boiler
(everything else being equal), the lower one should heat first. It must not be
supposed for one moment that the "theory" is that, under all circumstances,
no matter where placed— no matter how far away, no matter what friction or
what boiler power — the highest must heat first. This is a mere burlesque on
the subject. What is correct in theory must be correct in practice ; but theory
does not take up a fragment of the subject and forget all the rest.

I observe that Mr Hammond asks if the upper strata in the flow-pipe travels
faster than the lower strata. I answer, it does. Any one who doubts this
I invite to examine for himself by calling on me here, where he will see an
apparatus with certain parts of the 4" pipe made entirely of glass, showing the
motion very plainly at the various points : nothing can be plainer and more
convincing.

The only other point of Mr Hammond's letter calling for comment is his
quotations from Hood. I am perfectly well aware Hood recommends the
form of apparatus advocated by Mr Hammond. What then comes of the asser-
tion that hot-water engineers never recognised the desirability of this form
under any circumstances ? I asserted in my last letter that, as far as con-
cerned myself, my practice is to be entirely guided by the circumstances of
the case. Hood recommends this for diametrically opposite reasons to Mr
Hammond's; for, immediately following the quotation from page 169 of the last
edition, he says : " This" (the reversal of the circulation) "arises from the ex-
tremely rapid motion of the water in vertical pipes, by which means the whole
of the heated water passes directly to the highest level, without delivering any
to the lower horizontal branches." Mr Hammond asks me if I think Hood
and the other authors quoted have reached the "acme of perfection." I
answer no; but when I find all men of science agreeing upon the existence and
operation of certain laws, and when, moreover, their reasoning in support of
these appear to myself to be as plain as that "two and two make four," or
that "the whole is equal to all the parts," really Mr Hammond must excuse
me when I prefer to stick to my own views when in such good company.
That 1 don't follow Hood in his practical application in this matter is because
I have repeatedly proved to my own satisfaction — and I am quite prepared to
prove to the satisfaction of any other person— that where there are several
iloors of buildings to heat in the manner referred to by Hood, quoted by Mr
Hammond, it is not only possible to have a good circulation with the flow
and return of about equal length in what may be called the ordinary manner,
but as good a circulation may be had with nearly the whole of the piping a
flow pipe, with a direct and vertical return. I can point to several places,
both here in Edinburgh and elsewhere, fitted up with the flow winding through
the various flats, then a direct and vertical return to the boiler, and the ap-
paratus— some in operation for ten years — giving the very highest satisfaction,
and no such thing as a reversal of the circulation takes place. In these cir-
cumstances I think I am quite justified in coming to the conclusion that it is
no necessary consequence of a heating apparatus with a winding flow and a
vertical return that there should be any reversal or obstruction of the circula-
tion. Whatever may cause this reversal in certain cases, it is clear that it is
not this form of the apparatus, or it must of necessity take place in every case
where the vertical return exists.

In conclusion, allow me again to point out the mistake made by Mr Ham-
mond, as well as others, in assuming that the motive power in a hot-water ap-
paratus is not the pressure of the cold water in the return, but some mysteri-

1879.] HARRISON'S MUSK FOR BEDS. 475

ous quality imparted to the water by the heat which makes it fly away from
the earth. It is an error to suppose that while water at, say, 60° presses down-
wards towards its centre of gravity, the same water at, say, 212° has any tend-
ency to fly upwards : there is no such tendency : the all-pervading and ever-
present law of gravitation applies to all substances in nature in exactly the
same way according to their densities, and no substance has the slightest tend-
ency to rise of itself, whatever its temperature.

A cubic foot of water in its solid form, and the same in the form of vapour,
is attracted in equal degrees. The law is that "every particle of matter at-
tracts every other particle by a force that decreases as the square of the
distance increases, and increases as the square of the distance decreases." I
trust no one will think this does not apply to the hot-water apparatus.* A
proper consideration and understanding of these fundamental laws saves a
world of trouble in discussing the matter. What I said about a lighter fluid
forcing a heavier uphill really does not need further illustration, but to any
doubter I say again, "Come and see." Come and see water at 80° forcing
water at 60° uphill. [But why not let the water at 60° go down-hill ?— Ed.]

Atmospheric air is lighter than water, bulk for bulk, but nevertheless it
raises water 34 feet. Atmospheric air is lighter than mercury, but it raises it
13 inches.

1 feel highly honoured indeed by the decision of the stoke-hole affair being
left in your (Editor's) hands and mine. We have none of us anything to gain
by upholding either false theory or practice, and when called upon I shall be
delighted to give a fair and unbiassed opinion on the matter.

A. D. Makenzie.

2 Grove Terrace, Edinburgh.

[We have devoted so much space to this important question, that we must
now close this discussion for the present.— Ed.]

HARRISON'S MUSK FOR BEDS.

This is a charming plant for pot-culture, and the numbers of it sold
in pots are immense, but to see it in its most effective dress it must
be seen as a bedding-plant. In brilliancy it eclipses the well-known
Viola Perpetual Yellow, and that is saying much for it. Treated ex-
actly like Violas as to propagation, and being planted in good holding
rich soil, its productiveness of bloom is wonderful. All through the
past unfavourable season it has been a mass of bloom. No matter if
it be battered for days or weeks with rain, two or tbree hours fair
weather restores its brilliancy. It was from seeing it so brilliant at
one or two places in England last year, when the weather was hot and
dry, that induced us to plant a good many beds of it this year —and
nothing in its way could be more satisfactory. Of course, it is all but
hardy, if not quite so. At all events, treated just like Violas or Cal-
ceolarias, it will do well ; and we are sure that all who want brilliant
beds of yellow will not be disappointed if they grow this Musk in
good soil. In hungry dry soils it would be well to put a good propor-
tion of rotten manure in the beds. All the Mimulus like moist rich soil.

476 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

ARRANGEMENT OF VEGETABLES AT ROYAL
CALEDONIAN SOCIETY'S SHOW.

Whilst the memory of the Autumn Show of the Royal Caledonian
Horticultural Society is still green, it may not be amiss to note a few
thoughts which were given birth to whilst inspecting the Exhibition
both closely and as a whole from the gallery encircling the Waverley
Market. Of primary importance as to the general aspect of the ex-
hibition, were the groups of plants arranged on the floor of the building
by the Lawson Seed and Xursery Company, and which certainly con-
stituted the most striking feature in the Exhibition. It is scarcely too
much to expect that the other trade firms will at future shows boldly
follow and improve on the innovation so successfully initiated by the
above-named firm. Following that, it may be hoped that the Staging
Committee may see their way to group all plants on the floor, relegat-
ing the ugly tables now in use to some auction mart, where a better
use may be found for them by some of the buyers. Then there are the
vegetables. Could not there be a mode of setting up these brought
into use at the shows, somewhat more in keeping with the dignity
of the Society 1 Instead of huddling the several kinds in the collec-
tions together into a flit tray-box, would it not be more in keeping
with the fruit-tables to stage the vegetables in the same manner.
The difference in the get-up of a collection of vegetables, where the
different sorts are set up singly in dishes and arranged to the best
advantage, is as different, perhaps more so, as would be the tout
ensemble of a first-class collection of fruit huddled closely together in
a tray in the one case and in the other as at present staged. And so
also with the classes for particular kinds of vegetables : neatly set up
on dishes, the interest in these would be greatly increased. It would
also be an advantage were the Council to state in the schedule the
number of each particular vegetable required when staged in a col-
lection— as, for instance, two Cauliflowers or four, a brace of Cucum-
bers or two brace, and so on with other kinds. Whilst writing on
these matters, might I be allowed to draw attention to a vegetable
greatly slighted by the Society in question ? Why is the noble Tuber
lefc out in the cold ? Well-grown Potatoes, when shown in collec-
tions, say of twelve to twenty-four sorts, form a feature not only of
interest but of beauty to a horticultural exhibition. Let us hope
that the Council will overlook our humble friend no longer, and that
if they do introduce the Potato in its finest form to the notice of the
Edinburgh public, there will be a clause to the effect that they be
staged, not on rough boards, but with each kind separately set up on
dishes.

1879] POTS FOR STRAWBERRIES. 477

As the journal you, Mr Editor, conduct, is the best medium by
which to approach this subject, it is hoped you will give your edi-
torial adhesion to these remarks.

A Member of the R. C. H. S.

POTS FOR STRAWBERRIES.

While your correspondent, Mr Hinds, is writing on Strawberries in
' The Gardener,' I should feel obliged if he would explain to me and
others the incomprehensible statement of his in his "calendarial
writings" in the ' Gardeners' Chronicle' lately. He says : —

"A correspondent inquires whether I have found in practice that
the yield of plants potted into 5-inch pots a fortnight later is better than
that to be obtained from 6-inch pots, the plants of which are equally
well rooted and ripened. My experience is that the produce of the
former is equal in all respects to that of the latter, with this addition,
that a good many more plants of the 5-inch size can be put into the
same space, thus yielding a larger supply of fruit from any given space.
This experiment was tried side by side with others last year, and the
results inspected by competent authorities, whole lines of plants being
submitted to the test and brought into bearing at the same time."

This we understood, but a little further on, in a sentence quite un-
connected with the above, he says : " No size surpasses the 6-inch pot
for all round work." What I wish to know is, how he makes this
appear, after telling us that " the produce of a 5-inch pot is equal in all
respects to that of a 6-inch pot," with this addition, that the 5-inch pot
" yields a larger supply of fruit from any given space " ? We are given
to understand that the sorts experimented with by Mr Hinds were his
" all round " favourites — viz., Sir C. Napier and Vicomtesse Hericart de
Thury ; and it puzzles one to understand why he should elect to use the
6-inch pot for "all round work," or most extensively, when he has proved
to his own satisfaction, and the satisfaction of " competent authorities,"
that the 5-inch pot is by far the best, or, in other words, that it sur-
passes the 6-inch. The use of 5-inch pots means a gain of about 17
plants in every 100, or nearly 340 plants in 2000— the number, I be-
lieve, Mr Hinds forces, as he has somewhere stated; and if that alone
is not a sufficient proof that the 5-inch pot surpasses the 6-inch for
" all round work," I misapprehend the meaning of figures, and the
meaning of Mr Hinds's experiments. Mr Hinds's statements simply
amount to this — that the 5-inch pot produces nearly 20 per cent more,
and equally good fruit, than the 6-inch pot, space for space ; but for
some unaccountable reason he prefers the latter for general purposes,
and recommends as the best.

Lkakn ek.

473 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

FRUIT-CULTURE.

My reply to Mr Hinds on this subject need not be a long one. I am
perfectly willing to discuss the matter with him or any one else who
is disposed to meet his adversary on fair grounds, and the arguments
advanced against him, without evasion ; but in the present instance
this seems to be more than I may expect, and therefore, so far as I am
concerned, these few remarks close the discussion. In my last I
charged your correspondent with laying down rules of conduct for his
neighbours that he was in the habit of violating with impunity himself,
in his calendarial writings, where he has the least provocation for doing
so ; and also of advocating practices in Strawberry-forcing which, while
they were extra expensive and troublesome, had nothing to recommend
them, so far as Mr Hinds has yet demonstrated, at least. These two
charges he has been unable to refute.

I next contested his wholly unqualified assertion that large and fine
leaves upon Vines showed that they were in the "worst possible condi-
tion/'and indicated "just the reverse of superior culture" — furnishing
testimony on my side from my own experience, as well as authenticated
examples of famous crops of fruit produced in conjunction with foliage
of great size and vigour, at Dalkeith and Floors. These examples Mr
Hinds says he " fails to see the relevancy of " — and that being so, I have
only to say that I despair of making him see the relevancy of any
facts, opposed to his own preconceived notions; and I would neither
be consulting the patience of your readers nor my own sense of pro-
priety in making the attempt. J. S., W.

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

At the monthly meeting held in 5 St Andrew Square, Edinburgh, on the 5tb
ult., Mr Dunn, president, occupied the chair. After the admission and Domi-
nation of new members, the secretary read a communication from Mr John
"Webster, Gordon Castle, on "Raising of Eoots of Fruit-trees as a means of in-
ducing Fertility. " After adverting to the importance of using every possible
means of maintaining the health and vigour of fruit-trees, so as to secure the
utmost productiveness, and at the same time the finest quality and flavour, he
pointed out that a very frequent cause of sickly trees and poor crops was to be
found in the roots penetrating into the cold clayey subsoil, where they were
away from the influences of solar heat and the more fertile soil near the sur-
face. As a remedy for this, he recommended the forking up again of the roots
towards the surface, the removal of as much of the poor soil as was consistent
with the safety of the tree, and the filling in of the necessary quantity of fresh,
rich, loamy compost. Several of the members took part in the discussion which
followed — the unanimous opinion being in favour of the principles advocated
by Mr Webster, which, it was shown, might in many cases be acted upon by
practical arboriculturists, and others interested in trees and shrubs. Mr
William Pirrie, Leith, next read a paper on (i Mushroom-culture," confining

1879] CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 479

his remarks to the common species, " Agaricus campestris," which, he showed,
could be successfully grown under a greater variety of circumstances, and
these within the reach of most gardeners, than was generally supposed. He
strongly advocated their more extended cultivation, not only for private use,
but for the market ; and suggested that the now disused Scotland Street
tunnel in Edinburgh would prove as suitable for the purpose as the celebrated
underground caves of Paris. He mentioned that the simplest test to dis-
tinguish the edible from the poisonous species was to put salt upon the "gills,"
which would cause the former immediately to turn black, but would have no
such effect upon the latter. In the course of a long and very interesting dis-
cussion, one of the speakers alluded to the enormous quantities of Mushrooms
annually sent to this country from Paris; that an increased supply at reason-
able prices would doubtless create a still greater demand, and that he was as-
sured, from his knowledge of the trade in Edinburgh, there was no more profit-
able field open for market-gardeners than their culture.

Mr John Cowe next read the conclusion of his paper on " The Hyacinth," the
first part of which he brought forward at last meeting. He dealt chiefly with
the treatment of the plants after removal from the shed in which they had been
plunged among leaf-mould, sand, or ashes, after potting : this he recommended
should be done so soon as the crowns were about half an inch high ; and in this
operation great care should be taken to avoid damaging the tips, as the foliage
was sure ever afterwards to bear the marks of such damage, seriously affecting
their prospects as competition plants. In a few remarks upon the selecting of
bulbs most likely to produce fine bloom, Mr Cowe cautioned beginners against
laying too much stress upon mere size, — medium-sized solid bulbs, with firm
crowns, and not too wide at the base, were, as a general rule, to be preferred.

The customary votes of thanks were unanimously accorded to the authors of
the several papers. There was as usual a large number of plants and cut
flowers on the table, including trusses of a new fancy Pelargonium of a dark
colour, but striped and spotted in a peculiar manner with pure white, from Mr
William Pirrie, Leith. Mr L. Dow, Saughton, had a fine specimen of the
now little-known " Geranium anemonefolia," a species introduced many years
ago from Maderia, with elegant palmate leaves, and a profusion of small but
beautiful pink flowers. And two plants of new seedling Tropaeolums, both
of considerable merit, one named " Cetywayo," having very dark flowers, and
light, almost golden foliage, will doubtless "come to the front " among bedding-
plants. Messrs Dicksons & Co. had a small collection of cut blooms of seedling
Phloxes ; Matricaria chamomila plena, a pretty double form of the old-
fashioned herb "Chamomile;" Liliums longiflorum and Humboldtii and
Bravoa geminiflora, a beautiful liliaceous plant from Mexico, with red Pent-
stemon-like flowers. The plant from which this spike was taken has been
growing in the open air during the last two winters without protection.

ROYAL CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

The autumn exhibition of this Society was held in the Waverley Market on
10th September. Excepting the great International Shows, this was generally
admitted to be the most extensive show of plants and fruits ever held under the
auspices of this or any other Society in Scotland. Of course, after a season of
unprecedented cold and wet, hardy fruits and all out-door flowers were both a

480 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

small show and sadly deficient in size and quality. But this deficiency
was amply compensated by the very extensive show of in-door fruit and plants,
more especially Grapes, which were staged in great numbers and of first-rate
quality generally : indeed, so forcibly does this apply to the show of Grapes,
that a place on the prize list was got only by examples of first-rate cultivation.
"We counted 250 bunches of Grapes on one table, and this did not include any
but what were entered in the classes for Grapes exclusively, so that taking the
bunches set up in collections, there must have been close on, if not over, 300
bunches exhibited. Pines were neither numerous nor very fine ; Peaches were
exhibited in splendid condition ; and Nectarines, though not so numerous, were
good. In the plant department the local nurserymen contributed extensively
and well, all furnishing large tables of stove, greenhouse, and hardy plants and
flowers. The Lawson Company on this occasion, instead of placing their ex-
tensive exhibits in the usual way on tables, set them on the floor of the
market-place, — and it must have been apparent to all how much better the
exhibition would have looked as a whole, had every plant in the show been
arranged in like manner, and how much better the plants individually could be
seen and inspected. Placed on the tables, visitors of dwarf stature are con-
fronted chiefly with the pots, especially when a close inspection is attempted.
The managers would do well, we are certain, if they made use in some other way
of the unsightly tables, and left the exhibitors to arrange their plants on the
floor. So long as these hideous leggy tables are used, the shows will be as nearly
as possible a repetition of each other, and visitors will get tired with the stereo-
typed effect ; whereas, if the plants were set on the floor, a new design or
order of arrangement could be carried out, at least annually, if not for every
show, without any extra expense.

In the limits of the space that we can devote to the reporting of the show, we
will not be able to either describe or remark on but a limited number of the
prize winning exhibits, but before doing so, we will briefly refer to the nursery-
men's exhibitions. Beginning at the west end of the market-place, the Lawson
Company had a magnificent collection of Conifera and Shrubs, one bank of
which formed a semicircular terminus to the exhibition-ground, and in front of
Avhich was a large oval clump of smaller specimens, comprising Golden Yews,
Ptetinosporas, Cupressus, &c, all very effectively arranged and neatly margined
with a row of the pretty Golden Box. Besides these two groups, they had two
large circles and a crescent-shaped bed of miscellaneous stove and greenhouse
plants, including Crotons, Dracaenas, Palms, Anthuriums, mixed with Vallota
purpurea, Lilium auratum, Petunias, Pelargoniums, and a nicely - flowered
specimen of Clianthus Damperii. This group of beds was very effective,
and being below and on a level with the eye, every individual plant could be
distinctly seen. Messrs Methven & Sons followed with a table having down its
centre tall Tree-Ferns, Dracaenas, Palms, flanked on each side with all the popular
stove fine-foliage plants, intermixed with Liliums, Pelargoniums, and some good
plants of Todeas and other Ferns, — in all forming a very effective exhibition.
Next came the table of Messrs Downie & Laird, having very tall Palms for the
centre of the group, and among fine-foliaged plants on each side were very
effectively mixed Phloxes in pots, many of them not yet in commerce, stands of
spikes of Phloxes and Pentstemons, Violas and Roses, — many of the Pentstemons
and Violas being new and very fine sorts. Messrs Ireland & Thomson's table
had for its centre large well-coloured Crotons and Tree-Ferns ; and the table
was filled up with all the popular fine-foliage plants, having intermixed with
them a few Orchids, Begonias, Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, Nepenthes

"1879.] CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 4S1

Sarracenias, Gloxineas, &c. The table of Messrs Dicksons & Co. was also
centred with tall Tree-Ferns and Palms, and amongst a general assortment of
ornamental foliage plants were placed stands of Carnations, Piccotees, Violas,
Liliums, and two boxes of the fine hardy white perennial Matricaria Chammo-
milla plena, a most useful plant for mixed borders, shrubberies, and for cutting.
Mr Robertson Munro had a very interesting table of hardy perennial and Alpine
plants amounting to about 150 species. This collection served to show — in spite
of the large rainfall that has characterised this season — what a bright table can
be formed of these hardy plants. A very interesting table was filled from the
Royal Botanic Gardens. The group embraced Dionaeas, Sarracenias, Bertolonias,
curious and pretty Agaves, Nepenthes, good examples of Disa grandiflora,
Cyprepidiums, Pepper, Tea, and Coffee plants, &c. This exhibit attracted great
attention. A number of large Palms were also sent from the Botanic Gardens.

For the prize offered for collection of twelve dishes of fruit, three exhibitors
entered the lists— Mr Johnston of Glamis taking first honour, with a good
smooth Cayenne Pine ; splendid Muscat of Alexandria, Golden Queen, and Black
Hamburg Grapes ; Lord Strathmore and Gilbert's improved Victory of Bath
Melons; Red Magdalen and Gros Mignon Peaches; and very fine Pitmaston
and Dutilly's Nectarines. Mr M'Indoe, Hutton Hall, made an excellent
second with a smooth Cayenne Pine ; Duke of Buccleuch and Black Hamburg
Grapes ; Violet Hative, Noblesse, Stirling Castle, and Royal George Peaches ;
Brunswick Figs, and Merculus Melon. Mr M'Intyre, the Glen, was third with
two Pines ; Muscat of Alexandria and Black Hamburg Grapes ; Nectarines,
Apricots, Figs, Plums, Pears, Cherries, and Apples.

For the best eight dishes of fruit, "Pines excluded, Mr M'Indoe came first with
Madresfield Court, Forster's Seedling, Black Hamburg, and Golden Champion
Grapes ; Violet Hative and Alexander Peaches ; a Melon, and brown Turkey
Figs. Mr Fairgrieve of Dunkeld made a good second with Black Hamburg and
Madresfield Court Grapes ; Spanish Peaches ; Pitmaston Orange Nectarine ;
Read's Hybrid and a Seedling Melon ; and late Duke Cherries. Mr M'Con-
nachie, Cameron House, was third, having Muscat and Alicante Grapes ; Golden
Perfection and Marquis of Ailsa Melons ; Bellegarde Peaches ; Pitmaston
Nectarines ; Apples ; and Plums.

For eight bunches of four distinct grapes, Mr Kirk of Ernespie came in first
with magnificent examples of Duke of Buccleuch, Black Hamburg, Alicante,
and Buckland's Sweetwater. Mr M'Indoe was second with very fine examples
of Madresfield Court, magnificent bunches of Duke of Buccleuch, Black Ham-
burg, and Forster's Seedling. Mr Loudon being placed third with Muscat of
Alexandria, Burchardt's Prince, Gros Colman, and Black Hamburg.

For the four bunches (sorts) Mr M'Indoe took the lead, defeating Mr Kirk
this time with splendid Duke of Buccleuch, Black Hamburg, magnificently
coloured Muscat of Alexandria, and Madresfield Court. Mr Kirk's were Duke
of Buccleuch (fine), Black Hamburg, Buckland's Sweetwater, and Madresfield
Court. Mr Loudon was third with Black Prince, Madresfield Court, Trebbiano,
and Muscat of Alexandria.

For the twelve bunches — six black and six white — Mr M'Indoe was again
first with Muscat of Alexandria, Duke of Buccleuch, Madresfield Court, Alnwick
Seedling, Black Hamburg, Bowood Muscat, Frankenthal, Barbarossa, Golden
Champion, Gros Colman, and Forster's Seedling. Mr M'Intyre was second
with six bunches Muscat of Alexandria, Black Prince, and Black Hamburg.
Mr Hammond of Brayton being third, having very good Black Hamburg,
Alicante, Muscat, and Golden Queen.

4S2

THE GARDENER.

[Oct.

For two bunches of Black Hamburg Mr Boyd, Calender Park, Falkirk, was
placed first with two faultless bunches. Mr Curror of Eskbank being second
with fine examples also.

Mr Boyd staged probably the finest examples of Muscat Hamburg that have
ever been exhibited. The several examples of Alnwick Seedling that appeared
on this occasion were so fine in appearance that a good impression must have
been formed of it by growers. The same may be said of the Duke of Buccleuch,
which was in splendid form, without speck or crack, highly finished and
numerous, it being included in nearly every important collection of Grapes.
The heaviest bunch has dwindled down to 13 lb. 3 oz., and we see no reason to
regret it, for Ave consider mere weight a false standard to work up to. As we
publish the prize-list in full, with the name of the proprietors as well as the
gardeners, we cannot afford more space for particulars or remarks, excepting to
say that we were pleased to see more Heaths among the competition flowering
plants. Mr Paterson, Millbank, and others, have very fine examples of autumn
flowering Heaths.

The following is the awards of the judges, who were : — Messrs Thomson,
Clovenfords ; M'Kelvie, Broxmouth ; Fleming, Garscube ; M'Kenzie, "Warriston ;
Downie, West Coates ; Souza, Touche ; Findlay, Castlemilk ; Mitchell, Cambus
Erskine ; Beveridge, Mayfield Langstone ; Dunn, Dalkeith ; Knight, Floors
Castle ; Fowler, Grange Road.

The exhibition was visited by over 10,000 people, and we would advise the
Council to consider the propriety of keeping such grand autumn shows open for
two days, if it could be arranged to have the market for that time.

CLASS I.— FRUIT.

Collection of Fruit, twelve sorts. — 1,
Geo. Johnstone, gr. to Earl of Strath-
more, Glamis Castle; 2, Jas. M'Indoe,
gr. to T. W. Pease, Esq., Hutton Hall,
Gisborough ; 3, M. M'Intyre, gr. to C.
Tennent, Esq., The Glen, Innerleithen.

Collection of Fruit, eight sorts, ex-
cluding Pine Apples. — 1, Jas. M'Indoe ;
2. P. W. Fairgrieve, gr. to Duchess of
Athol, Dunkeld House ; 3, Jas. Macono-
chie, gr. to A. Smollett, Esq., Cameron
House.

Eight bunches Grapes, four sorts. — 1,
A. Kirk, gr. to Mrs M'Kie, Ernespie,
Castle Douglas ; 2, Jas. M Tndoe ; 3,
Jas. Louden, gr. to T. Baines, Esq., The
Quinta.

Four bunches Grapes, sorts. — (First
Prize by Mr Robert Jamieson, Fruit
Merchant, Princes Street.) 1, Jas.
M'Indoe; 2, A. Kirk; 3, Jas. Louden,
The Quinta, Chirk.

Twelve bunches Grapes, six black and
six white. — 1, Jas. M'Indoe ; 2, M.
M'Intyre ; 3, J. Hammond, gr. to Sir
W. Lawson, Bt., Bray ton Castle.

Two bunches Muscat Alexandria
Grapes. — 1, Jas. Maconochie ; 2, Jas.
M'Indoe.

Two bunches Black Hamburg Granes.
— 1, J. Boyd, gr. to W. Forbes, Esq.,
Falkirk ; 2, J. Curror, gr. to J. Douglas,
Esq., Eskbank.

Two bunches Golden Queen.— 1, Jas.
M'Indoe ; 2, — Ferguson, gr. to A.
Usher, Esq., Oswald Road.

One heaviest bunch of Grapes, white.
— 1, Jas. Dickson, gr. to J. Jardine,
Esq., Arkleton ; 2, A. Kirk.

One heaviest bunch of Grapes, black.
— 1, E. Cameron, gr. to T. Welsh, Esq.,
Moffat ; 2, Jas. Dickson.

One bunch Muscat Alexandria Grapes.
— 1, Jas. Carruthers, gr. to A. B. Flem-
ing, Esq., Hillwood, Corstorphine.

One bunch Venn's Black Muscat Grapes.
— 1, Jas. Dickson.

One bunch Black Hamburg Grapes. —
1, J. Boyd; 2, W. Collins, gr. to F.
Ballantyne, Esq., Walkerburn.

One bunch Black Hamburg Grapes for
size of berry. — 1, P. M'Kellor, gr. to Mr
Raffan, Dolisla ; 2, Jas. Dickson.

One bunch Black Alicante Grapes. —
1, Thos. Lees, North Berwick ; 2, A.
Gould, gr. to J. White, Esq., Dolphinton.

One bunch Lady Downes Grapes. — 1,
J. Maule, gr. to Mrs M'Nab, Howood,
Renfrew ; 2, J. Carruthers.

One bunch fiuest flavoured white
Grapes. — 1, G. Greig, gr. to W. Christie,
Esq. , Craigend Park ; 2, J. Brunton, gr.
to Sir D. Kinloch, Gilmerton.

One bunch finest flavoured black
Grapes. — 1, Jas. M'Indoe; 2, Jno.
Laing, gr. to R. Cathcart, Esq., Pitcairlie.

i879-] CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 483

One bunch black Grapes for finest
bloom.— 1, J. Maule; 2, P. M'Kellor.

One bunch Gros Colman Grapes. — 1,
A. Gould; 2, G. M'Lure, gr. to J.
Milne, Esq., Trinity Grove.

One bunch Golden Champion Grapes.
— 1, W. Kay, gr. to Sir Jas. L. Foulis,
Millburn Tower; 2, D. Kemp, gr. to
Miss Dalrymple, Langlee, Galashiels.

One bunch Duke of Buccleuch Grapes.
— 1, G. Gordon, gr. to J. M'Intosh, Esq.,
Teviot Bank.

Best bunch of any Grapes not named
in this Schedule. — 1, F. Boyd; 2, A.
Anderson, gr. to Earl of Stair, Oxen-
ford Castle.

One Queen Pine Apple. — 1, J. Pater-
son, gr. to Jas. Syme, Esq., Millbank ;
2, J. Laing.

One Smooth Cayenne Pine Apple. — 1,
M. M'Intyre; 2, Jas. M'Indoe.

One Melon, green fleshed. — 1, E. Tait,
gr. to Sir Coutts Lindsay, Colinsburgh ;
2, J. Maconochie.

One Melon, scarlet fleshed. — 1, A.
M'Leod, gr. to Royal Blind Asylum; 2,
J. Halliday, gr. to Wemyss Castle.

Twelve Figs. — 1, A. Anderson ; 2, Jas.
Gordon, gr. to Major Wauchope, Niddrie.

Six Apricots. — 1, J. Brunton ; 2, J.
M'Indoe.

Twelve Plums, four sorts, three of
each. — 1, M. M'Lean, Vinter Park,
Kent; 2, J. M'Indoe.

Twelve Peaches. — (First Prize by Boyd,
Bayne, & Co., Fruit Merchants, Prince3
Street.) 1, A. M'Kinnon, gr. to Vis-
count Melville, Melville Castle ; 2, J.
Hammond.

Six Nectarines, two sorts. — 1, J. Dick-
son ; 2, J. M'Leod, gr. to R. Smith, Esq.,
Brentham Park, Stirling.

Six Nectarines, grown on open wall. —

1, A. Kerr, gr. to A. Hope, Esq., Chapel-
on-Leader; 2, J. M'Leod.

Six Jargonelle Pears fit for the taMe.
— 1, J. Laing ; 2, J. Morrison, gr. to Col.
Hamilton, Preston Hall.

Six Pears, two sorts, named, three of
each (exclusive of Jargonelle), fit for
table. — 1, Geo. M'Leod, Westbourne ;

2, Jno. M'Leod.

A collection of Baking Apples, six
sorts, named, three of each, ripe or un-
ripe.—1, M. M'Lean; 2, R. Gray, The
Gardens (Irvine), Killochan.

Six Dessert Apples, fit for the table,
two sorts, named, three of each. — 1, T.
Bowman, gr. to Lord Deas, Pittendreich ;
2, A. Kerr.

A Pint of Gooseberries.— 1, Jas. Cos-
sar, gr. , Champfleure ; 2, Jas. Gordon,

A Pint of Red Currants. — 1, J. Cossar ;
2, G. Forrester (Amateur), Rosehill, Pol*
mont.

A collection of ten sorts of Hardy
Fruits. — 1, P. W. Fairgrieve; 2, M.
M'Intyre.

CLASS II. — GARDENERS AND AMATEURS.

Table of Plants, 30 feet by 5 feet.—

1, Jas. Spence, gr. to Jas. Buchanan,
Esq., Grange; 2, T. M'Donald, gr. to
D. M 'Gibbon, Esq., Grange.

Six Stove or Greenhouse Plants, in
flower. — 1, J. Paterson ; 2, J. Hammond.

Three Stove or Greenhouse Plants, in
flower. — 1, J. Paterson; 2, C. M'Far-
lane, gr. to D. Anderson, Esq., Mordun.

Two Stove or Greenhouse Plants, in
flower. — 1, A. Stalker, gr. to Miss Ivory,
St Roque ; 2, C. M'Farlane.

Two Cape Heaths, of sorts. — 1, J.
Paterson; 2, J. M'Cormack, gr. to Mrs
M' Vicar, Canaan Park.

Two Cape Heaths, pots not exceeding
9 inches.— 1, J. Paterson ; 2, C. M'Far-
lane.

Four Foliage Plants.— 1, J. Hammond ;

2, J. M'Cormack.

Two Foliage Plants, pots not exceeding
9 inches. — 1, J. Paterson ; 2, S. Graham,
gr. to H. Rose, jun., Esq., Blackford
Avenue.

Six Plants for Table Decoration, 6 inch
pots.— 1, R. Ritchin, gr. to R. Hounds-
worth, Esq., Kilmarnock : 2, W. Low,
gr. to J. Paton, Esq., Viewforth, Stirling.

Two Dracaenas (colour). — 1, J. Ham-
mond ; 2, S. Graham.

Two Crotons. — 1, J. Hammond ; 2, R.
M. Reid, gr. to Geo. Bertram, Esq.,
Ravenswood.

Four Palms.— 1, J. Paterson ; 2, G.
M'Lure; 3, J. Hammond.

One Palm, specimen, excluding Cycads.
— 1, J. M'Cormack ; 2, J. Paterson ; 3,
T. M'Donald.

Six Exotic Ferns, exclusive of Tree
Ferns.— 1, A. Paul, 89 Gilmour Place ;
2, G. M'Rae, gr. to P. Neill Fraser, Esq.,
Murrayfield ; 3, J. M'Cormack.

Three Exotic Ferns, pots not exceeding
9 inches. — 1, A. Findlay, gr. to A.
M'Kelvie, Esq., 14 Oswald Terrace; 2,
J. Shearer.

Two Todeas. — 1, A. Anderson ; 2, A.
Findlay.

One Adiantum Farleyense. — 1, J.
M'Cormack; 2, J. Curror.

Four Adiantums, of sorts, excluding
Farleyense. — 1, T. M'Donald; 2, J.
Pearson.

Tree Fern, stem not less than 3 feet. —
1, J. Curror.

One Hydrangea.— 1, G. H. M'Culloch,
gr. to Jas. Lindsay, Esq. , Loanhead ; 2,
J. Shearer.

Two pots or pans Lycopodium, differ-
ent sorts. — 1, G. M'Rae ; 2, J. Cossar.

484

THE GARDENER.

[Oct.

Two Orchids. — 1, Dr Paterson, Bridge
of Allan; 2, J. Curror.

One Orchid.— 1, Dr Paterson ; 2, A.
Paul.

Two Petunias. — 1, G. Lawrie, gr. to A.
C. Haldane, Esq., Greenhill House; 2,
R. Lawrie, gr. to Prof. Calderwood, Mer-
chiston.

Two pots "Vallota purpurea. — 1, J.
Stuart, Corstorphine.

One pot Vallota purpurea. — 1, J. Fos-
ter ; 2, R. M. Reid.

One pot Eucharis amazonica. — 1, J.
Paterson ; 2, J. Hammond.

Two Fuchsias, of sorts. — 1, Jas.
Walker ; 2, R. Lawrie.

Two Fuchsias, pots not exceeding 8
inches. — 1, Jas. Walker ; 2, James
Martin.

Two Cockscombs. — 1, R. Johnstone;
2, W. Tweedie, Portobello.

Two Balsams. -1, Jas. Walker; 2, H.
M'Kenzie ; 3, W. Kay, Equal Second.

Three Zonale or Bedding Geraniums,
sorts, in pots not exceeding 9 inches,
in bloom. — 1, A. Henderson ; 2, Jas.
Walker.

Three Variegated Geraniums, of sorts,
in bloom.— 1, T. M'Donald ; 2, R. Law-
rie.

Three Bronze Geraniums, of sorts. — 1,
S. Graham ; 2, J. Brown ; 3, R. Lawrie.

Three pots Liliums, of sorts. — 1, A.
Paul ; 2, J. Walker.

One pot Lilium auratum. — 1, J. Pater-

son : 2, T. Philips, gr. to Mrs Murray,
Merchiston.

Twelve cut Roses, of sorts. — 1, A. H.
Cray, Eastferry, Dunkeld; 2, Jas. Stuart.

Twelve Gladioli, of sorts. — 1, A. Kerr.

Six Gladioli, of sorts.— 1, W. Paxton ;
2, R. Grieve.

Twelve Quilled Asters, of sorts. — 1, J.
Taylor, Eskbank ; 2, A. Kerr.

Twelve Chrysanthemum - flowered
Asters, of sorts. — 1, J. Taylor; 2, R.
Ewan.

Six Phloxes, of sorts. — 1, J. Pearson ;
2, J. Walker.

Four Phloxes, of sorts. — 1, J. Pearson.

Twelve Dahlia Blooms, of sorts. — 1,
Jas. Walker, Rosehall ; 2, Jas. Walker.

Six Dahlia Blooms, of sorts. — 1, J.
Pearson ; 2, R. Ferguson.

Six Dahlia Blooms, of sorts. — 1, J.
Pearson ; 2, J. Walker.

Six Ten Weeks Stocks, six varieties. —

1, G. Lawrie ; 2, L. Dow.

Four East Lothian Intermediate Stocks,
4 sorts. —1, H. Sime ; 2, J. Spence.

Twelve varieties of Zonale Geraniums,
three trusses of each sort. — 1, W. Kay ;

2, J. Bald.

Centrepiece of cut Flowers and Foliage
for Dinner Table Decoration. — 1, Jas.
Thorn.

One Hand Bouquet.— 1, T. Bowman ;
2, J. C. Knight, 15 Clarendon Crescent.

One Table Bouquet.— 1, G. M'Lure ; 2,
H. Watson.

CLASS III. — NURSERYMEN.

Twenty-four Dahlia Blooms, of sorts.
— 1, Downie & Laird ; 2, D. Montgomery,
The Glen Nursery, Cardross.

Twelve Fancy Dahlia Blooms, of sorts.
-1, Downie & Laird.

CLASS IV.— GARDENERS AND AMATEURS.

Collection of Vegetables, twelve sorts
(to be shown in a flat basket 2 feet
Avide). — 1, G. Potter, gr. to W. Laidlaw,
Esq., Seacliff, North Berwick; 2, T.
Bowman.

Two Cucumbers. — 1, H. Sime, Ridge
Park, Lanark ; 2, J. Morrison.

Four Cauliflowers.— 1, T. Bowman ; 2,
W. Gourlay, Bilston Lodge.

Four Stalks Celery. —1, H. Watson;
2, R. Ferguson.

Four Beetroots. — 1, R. Ferguson ; 2,
H. Watson.

Six Leeks.— 1, G. Potter; 2, T. Bow-
man.

Two Savoys.— 1, A. M'Leod; 2, R.
Grieve.

Twelve Onions.— 1, G. Potter; 2, G.
Greig.

Two pots of Parsley. —1, W. H.
M'Cuiloch ; 2, W. Gourlay.

Six Lettuce.— 1, H, Watson; 2, W,
Kay,

Twenty-four " Schoolmaster" Potatoes
(Prizes by Mr John Addison, Eastmains,
Broxburn). — 1, Jas. Kilpatrick, Redhill,
Dumfries; 2, Jas Morrison.

Special Award to Mr Hugh Dickson, Belfast, for Roses, £2.

i879-

CALENDAR.

485

CTaUtttrar*

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Now that one is drawing to the season
of ' ' sear and yellow leaf, there is
nearly an end of sowing and plant-
ing for 1879 ;" but the present month
is one in which the anxious and in-
dustrious cultivator can find plenty
to keep his energies employed. The
weather has for about a year kept up
a topic of conversation which will not
be readily forgotten. The continued
drenchings and low temperature have
rendered it a real difficulty in many
places to secure the necessary require-
ments of the gardens. Weedy gardens
and nurseries are more common this
season than we ever remember them ;
hoeing has been almost impracticable ;
and hand- weeding has been attended
with the greatest difficulties. But now
that we hope to be better served with
weather in the season to come, every
effort should be made to facilitate all
operations in the gardens which may
act as aids in the future. Firstly, a
thorough clearance of all useless vege-
table matter should be made. Every
crop, such as Cabbage, Cauliflower,
and Lettuce, should be in their places,
properly planted in well-prepared land.
We use the word "properly," as it is
seldom we meet with men of the
ordinary class who can plant in a
proper form. Sticking the roots in a
hole smooth and battered like pitch
is a practice by no means rare, and
the collars of the plants are made
tight in this while the roots dangle
loose in the hole. We need not won-
der then why plants — " unaccountable "
— look starved during winter, and bolt
to seed when the season becomes
warmer. Planting in wet soil is
much safer when done by a trowel,
and the soil properly placed to the
roots. If the land is very heavy and
cold, a small portion of kindly soil
placed with the roots would do much
to secure a crop by giving a start to
the plants and preventing their be-
coming stunted. We have in our
heavy red clay to adopt this practice
with all our seeds and plants — without
this precaution failure is certain.
Still, on our well -trenched land we
have little to complain of this untoward
season. When making the clearance
which we refer to, all refuse should be

wheeled to a heap, where it should be
covered with soil, so that it would not
be offensive. If ground is ready to be
trenched, a quantity of rough vegeta-
tion may be turned down ; it will act
as drainage and not be lost, but act as
a slight dressing to the ground. Our
practice is to have a heap of garden
refuse — keeping back stones and sticks
— a mixture of soot, siftings of lime,
burnt -wood ashes, turf, refuse from
potting -sheds, &c, all put together,
and when trenching is done this mixture
is wheeled in quantity to the ground
and turned down at least a "spit and
crumb" below the surface. We are
at present (middle of September)
wheeling in such material along with
some good manure for the main crops
of Cabbage. The ground by this
means is kept open during the winter,
and in spring the roots run freely into
this manure, and get away from
drought. The Cabbage crop should
be planted without delay. If the
plants are, however, pricked out,
and not becoming crowded, they will
take no harm to remain some time as
they are, when they can be lifted and
carefully planted. We prefer plant-
ing doubly thick, and when the plants
are large enough for use, every alter-
nate one is cut out; and when the crop
is fully grown those which were cut
out early will be coming in to succeed
them as greens. Thus a large quan-
tity of vegetable produce may be had
off a small space. The small Cabbage
plants left from planting should be
lifted and planted neatly in a shel-
tered space to stand the winter. They
are of great service in the spring
season, especially if we have such an-
other winter as last. We knew the
use of reserve plants last March and
April. Cauliflower should be planted
where hand-lights and other protectors
are to shelter them : a border sloping
to the sun, well broken, on which place
the hand-lights about 4 feet between
each, and in each light place nine sturdy
plants ; they can be thinned out in
March, and the thinnings transplant-
ed, leaving about five in each light.
Cauliflower to be wintered in frames,
&c, should be carefully pricked on a
border, measuring first by the size of

4S6

THE GARDENER.

[Oct.

frame which may be placed over them
a month later, but only for protection; i
coddling for want of air draws them t
up weakly. Lettuce may be planted
in quantity, also Batavian Endive :
a good border or ridge in a sheltered
position is very desirable : the ground
should be rich and well broken. Brown
Coss, Hardy Hammersmith, and All
the Year Round stand as well as any
kinds we know. All young plantations
should be well hoed, and dustings of
soot, ashes, and lime strewn over the
ground among the plants. Celery
should all be gone over, and have a
good earthing up ; dustings of lime to
keep grubs and snails in check are very
necessary in some gardens. Endive
should now be blanched by placing a
quantity in a frame or pit, and cover-
ing the glass to keep out light : wooden
shutters answer well for such purposes,
but tying may be resorted to : laying
a board over the plants, or slates placed
flatly on them, are often successfully
used for blanching. Chicory may be
lifted and trimmed for blanching; in
any dark, close place it will blanch :
a Mushroom -house answers well: a
quantity taken in every few weeks
will keep up a good supply. Spinach
should have all yellow leaves taken
off, weeds pulled, and the hoe put
through the crop neatly : lime and
fine ashes may be dusted all over the
surface of the ground. Turnips must
be thinned by a careful hand at this

season, only separating the plants and
clearing oil the weeds : a finely broken
surface with hoe is advantageous to
growth. Broccoli growing too vigor-
ous may be lifted and laid with the
heads to the north, if checking luxu-
riant growth is necessary. All such
crops for winter and spring supply
should be gone over with hoe or fork
— later it may not be suitable from wet.
Ground for Peas and broad Beans may
be prepared ; thorough trenching is
advantageous. Break the surface well ,
so that the seed may be sown on it,
and the soil drawn over. All roots may
be lifted and carefully housed, Pota-
toes especially. There need be no
hurry with Beet and Carrots till the
end of the month. Parsnips are dug
up as they may be wanted fresh from
the ground : they retain their flavour
and keep better when left in the earth.
The forcing of French Beans may be
proceeded with. To have plenty about
Christmas they should be started this
month in quantity, either in pots or
planted in pits or frames. Asparagus,
where wanted early, may be lifted and
placed on a gentle hotbed as thickly
as the roots can be laid out, with the
crowns clear, and covered with a few
inches of light soil. Seakale may also
be started this month ; a close heat,
about 6*0°, will bring it forward. Keep
successions of Mushrooms on the way
by forming beds often.

M. T.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — Such an exceptional season
as has been experienced calls for prac-
tice of a somewhat exceptional order.
In the case of plants intended to fruit
early in the year, or, it may be, started
into fruit by the end of December, it
may be necessary to keep them both
drier and warmer than usual to get
them into a condition that will in-
sure their starting after being rested
awhile. Owing to the very wet and
sunless summer, the growth of these
plants is very likely to be soft and
immature, and a drier and warmer at-
mosphere will, for the next month, so
far rectify the deficiency. Avoid, how-
ever, now that the nights are getting
long, a higher night temperature than
65° ; but keep them dry at the root,
and freely ventilate on fine days when
they occur. See, however, that the

pots are plunged firmly to the rim, and
that their bottoms have a good layer
of the plunging material between them
and the pipes. Keep a temperature
of 70° in houses where fruit are swell-
ing off, and let the bottom-heat range
as nearly as possible about 90°. Keep
the atmosphere moist, but discontinue
syringing overhead, and moisten the
collars of the plants and surface of the
bed instead. If any crowns have a
tendency to grow large, screw the
centres out of them with a sharp
chisel or similar instrument. See that
the soil never gets very dry; just keep
it moist, but not wet ; and if the tan,
or whatever they are plunged in, has
shrunk, put on a surfacing up to the
rim of the pots. All young-growing
stock should now have a lower night
heat — 65° is sufficiently high. Keep

i879.]

CALENDAR.

487

them moderately moist at the root, |
and let the air moisture be regulated j
by the weather and amount of fire-
heat required to keep up the heat.
Air freely on all calm, mild days, and
see that the plants are not standing
too thickly together. A score of well-
grown sturdy plants will be more
satisfactory than thirty attenuated
specimens. Suckers recently potted,
and that have rooted, should now
have full sun and more air, and be
kept just damp at the root, but noth-
ing more. Pot more suckers as they
become lit. Let ripening fruit have a
free circulation of dry warm air about
them, and keep them drier now than
in summer, as they near maturity.

Grapes. — All Grapes intended to
hang through the winter should be
ripe by the 1st of October; but it is to
be feared, started at the usual period,
they may be behind time this year.
If so, let them be more freely tired,
and keep up a circulation of dry warm
air about them till they are quite
ripe. If any lateral growths have
been left on the Vines, they had
better now be removed, leaving only
one or two leaves to each. Look over
all Grapes that have been ripe for
some time, and remove any shrivelled
or mouldy berries as soon as they
present themselves. Keep everything
about the vinery dry; and on days
when the ventilators can be freely
opened without admitting damp, put
some heat into the pipes early in the
day, allowing them to cool before
night. All Vines from which the
Grapes have recently been cut will,
after so wet and sunless a summer, be
the better for special treatment in the
way of extra fire-heat and a circula-
tion of dry warm air about them.
If any superfluous laterals exist, re-
move them, so that light and air can
play freely about the foliage and wood.
Vines planted this year, and that have
made strong wood, should also be
treated in this way, so as to make sure
of being well ripened. All Vines from
which Grapes are expected next April
and May should be pruned immedi-
ately, and all about them and the
vinery put in proper trim for a start
by-and-by. Pot - Vines intended to
be forced to yield ripe Grapes in April
and May should, by the beginning of
this month, be thoroughly ripe. But
owing to the sunlessness of the season,
many of these may not be so ripe as

they should be, in which case they
should be placed in a light position,
where, by means of tire-heat, they can
be subject to a circulation of dry
warm air for a few weeks. It is
better to do this, and start them a
fortnight later than usual, than to
begin with them in an imperfectly
ripened condition. AY here new bor-
ders for planting Vines next spring
have to be made, it would be well to
store the soil for them in some place
where it can be kept dry, and be in
good condition for putting into the
borders in early spring.

Peaches. — Apply fire -heat to all
strong-growing trees till the wood is
well ripened. Look over trees from
which fruit has been recently gathered,
and remove all superfluous shoots, so
as to let light and air play about all
the foliage and wood. Should this
month be colder and damper than
usual, late Peaches under glass will be
benefited by fire -heat : it will cause
them to swell better and improve the
flavour. Where new borders are to
be made and young trees planted, the
work should be done so that the trees
may be planted just as they begin to
shed their leaves. Any young trees
that have made strong unfruitful
shoots should be lifted and replanted
at the same time. Keep the earliest
trees cool and well aired.

Melons. — Late crops should have
the night temperature about 72°, and
when ripening, warmth and dryness
are indispensable to good flavour ; but
avoid allowing the soil to become so
dry that the foliage flags before the
fruit are perfected.

Cucumbers. — Keep up a genial
growing atmosphere, not allowing the
heat to sink below 70° or rise above
75° at night. Less moisture will be
required in the soil and atmosphere
as the days shorten and the sun loses
power. At the same time, the plants
must be supplied with sufficient to
keep them fresh and in a growing
condition. Thin out all growths that
are crowding the trellis — leaving, of
course, the youngest : stop them at
every joint, and do not over-crop.

Figs. — Keep trees from which the
fruit are all gathered drier at the root,
and, provided the wood is well ripened,
keep them cool ; but young strong-
growing trees should be kept warm
till they ripen properly. Remove all
growths not required for properly fur-

488 THE GARDENER. [Oct. 1879.

nishing the trees with fruit - bearing the production of fine plants, it may,
wood. Keep a circulation of dry warm in many localities, be desirable to place
air in houses where fruits are ripening, at least some portion of the stock in
Strawberries in Pots. — If former cold pits or frames, where they can be
directions have been carried out, these kept near the glass and have plenty of
should now have their pots thoroughly air. This would materially assist late
filled with roots, and have large well- plants in maturing their growth. Re-
developed crowns. But the season move all runners as soon as they show
having been most unfavourable for themselves.

Itoticxs to C0ms|30nimits.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in 'The Gardener' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not for
publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and address
of writer.

W. M;, — Dionaea muscipula, we find, thrives well in equal proportions of
peat, sphaguum, and broken potsherd or charcoal. Drain the pots well. Place
the plants in a temperature intermediate between stove and greenhouse heat.
It does very well in the moist atmosphere of the cool orchid-house.

"W". S. — You have overcropped your young Vines, hence the smallness and
bad colour of the fruit. Buckland's Sweetwater is a free-bearing, easily-grown
Grape, but scarcely fourth-rate in flavour. Were your case our own, we would
substitute the Duke of Buccleuch for it.

A. S. — Follow the directions given for Hibiscus Cooperii.

M. W. C. — The small thread-like worms are not wire- worms. Any applica-
tion likely to destroy the worms would be apt to injure the Strawberries.
You might, however, try the effect of watering with clear lime-water, and
apply a dressing of quicklime to the surface, and fork it in between the rows.

T. B. — Gumming is frequently caused by bruises, if it is gumming of trees
vou mean. If of the fruit, the cold, wet, sunless season is the most likely

cause.

THE

GARDENER

NOVEMBER 1879.

SEEDLING HEATHS AT BOTHWELL CASTLE.

OR many years — half a century at least — Bothwell Castle
has been justly celebrated for a collection of well-man-
aged Cape Heaths. For the last decade or two this
beautiful genera of plants has generally been too much
neglected, and their cultivation has not extended or kept pace
with that of other more ephemeral plants that are easily and rapidly
grown, and more available for the tear and wear of ordinary decora-
tive purposes. This, we think, is to be regretted. At Bothwell
Castle, Heaths have been steadily adhered to ; and any one who had
the pleasure of seeing the collection there in bloom last August and
September will, we think, agree with us in saying that it is a pity
Heaths are not more extensively patronised. The Heath-house at
Bothwell — an elegant span-roofed structure — was at the time we name
a perfect blaze of bloom, with the most select varieties of the more
difficult to manage hard-wooded Heaths in splendid specimens.

In saying this we are assuredly recording what must be regarded as
one of the greatest triumphs of gardening skill. To grow and main-
tain in robust health for a series of years a collection of large and
symmetrical hard-wooded Heaths is, in itself, one of the highest
achievements a gardener can accomplish. Not only has this been
done by Mr Turnbull, but almost every one of the noble specimens
that he has grown for the last fifty years have been hi3 own cuttings,
— a practice not at all common among Heath growers. It is considered
such slow work to grow Heaths from the rootless cuttings, that they
are generally bought from the nurseries. Nor is this but a fraction
of the credit that is due to Mr Turnbull. Not less than thirty-two of

2 L

490 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

the finest varieties that compose this celebrated collection of Heaths
are seedlings of his own raising, all being the result of the most care-
ful and intelligent hybridising, curried on for half a century. These
grand seedlings are the very cream of hundreds of seedlings which
have been carefully proved, and none saved except such as were
decided improvements on their progenitors. Among them are crosses
of the third and forth generations of Mr Turnbull's own seedlings.

It is about fifty years since Mr Turnbull began crossing and raising
seedlings, and one cannot form any conception of the slow patient
work which he has with such enthusiasm and intelligence carried on,
or can fully estimate the splendid results of such a labour. We do
not know in the annals of horticulture of a more meritorious achieve-
ment in connection with any family or genera of plants, and we
question if there be such an one ; for it must be admitted that few if
any genera of plants demand such patient work and skill to so vastly
improve them as do hard-wooded Heaths. These Bothwell Seedling
Heaths are truly splendid varieties. Who that has ever seen a healthy
well-bloomed plant of Marnockiana, to say nothing of others, needs to
be told this 1 The variety named is not equalled by any other for
beauty of colouring and freeness of flowering. Mr Turnbull had many
grand plants of it in bloom at the time of our visit, one specimen of
which we measured and found it to be 5 feet in diameter and 4 feet
high — a perfect sheet of bloom. We will just refer to a few of the
thirty-two seedlings retained in the collection. A plant of Turnbullii,
another splendid one, was 4 feet by 3 feet. Lady Mary Scott, a variety
of the Aitoniana strain, was nearly 3 feet by 2t> feet, covered with a
sheet of its pure white blossoms, the tubes of which were 1^ inch long,
and the corolla fully an inch in diameter. This is a grand Heath.
Then there are large plants of Turnbullii superba ; Austiniana, a well-
known and splendid Heath ; Douglasii ; Aitoniana Turnbullii ; Lord
Douglas ; Lady Home, a most superb variety, the result of a cross of
Turnbullii with Marnockiana, which cross could scarcely result in any-
thing else than a superb progeny. One plant of her Ladyship we
measured, and found it 3 feet by 3 feet. A very distinct and promis-
ing variety, as yet unnamed, raised by crossing Eassoniana with Lin-
naeoides, has a most brilliant tube an inch long, with a pure white
corolla. This is one of the few rather soft-wooded varieties Mr Turn-
bull has selected, — indeed, to the best of our recollection, the only one ;
and as it was just coming into bloom about the middle of September,
it will on that account, as well as from its real beauty, become a most
useful late autumn Heath. It is of a free yet sturdy habit of growth.
Not to refer further to Jacksonii, simulata, and others, suffice it to say
that the whole batch are of the very highest order of merit.

Surely if any kind of labour connected with horticulture deserves
public recognition and the highest horticultural, honours, it is such
work as we have briefly referred to in connection with the Heaths at

1879.] LATE AUTUMN-FLOWERING PLANTS. 491

Bothwell Castle. Mr Turnbull lias, at the same time, not been a man
of one idea, for he has not only not neglected any other branch of
gardening while he has accomplished such work in Heath culture, but
everything connected with his charge for which means have been pro-
vided, has been most assiduously and successfully carried on by him
during his career of fifty years at Bothwell Castle. We have no
recollection of ever having seen finer crops of vegetables in any garden
than we saw there last September, and they were just a sample of the
usual crops. For many years Mr Turnbull held a foremost place as a
crosser and raiser of florist flowers, and the same may be said in
reference to general plant culture.

Many a successful gardener owes much to the thorough grounding
in all the important principles of culture he received under Mr
Turnbull's tuition ; and not a few — ourselves among the number — have
felt that to follow the lines of gardening practice which he carried out,
and the noble example he set in every other respect, was their surest
and safest road to success and esteem. Mr Turnbull is one of those
gentlemen who have made their avocation a labour of love as well as
of duty ; and no mind could be furtherremoved from mercenary con-
siderations, one of the strongest proofs of which is the fact that many
in his position would have made these grand seedling Heaths a lucra-
tive success, whereas he has never looked upon or made use of his
achievement in that way.

ON LATE AUTUMN-FLOWERING HERBACEOUS
PLANTS.

The value of late-flowering hardy flowers is yearly becoming better
appreciated. This year, characterised as it has been by its disastrous
weather, resulting in a greater dearth of both fruit and flowers than
any in the remembrance of the oldest living gardeners, hardy her-
baceous plants, and particularly those which flower in autumn, have
proved themselves conspicuously superior to the various classes of
tender plants which are so generally used for summer and autumn
flower-gardening. They have flourished and flowered — most of them
out of season, perhaps — in defiance of the adverse weather ; and those
have had most enjoyment in their gardens who have had the largest
number of them employed in their decoration. Doubtless the ex-
perience of the present year will stimulate the movement towards the
more general culture of the hardy perennial classes of plants, which
is one of the healthiest signs of the present time in flower-garden
matters. It indicates that the time for an exclusive fashion in the
flower-garden, which has long placed a limit to the enjoyment and
pleasure of the owners of gardens, is coming to an end, and that the
conviction of the superior fitness to our changeable climate of the

492 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

many splendid hardy flowers which abound amongst the tribes which
make up the great class of herbaceous plants, is being borne in on
the minds of all who are interested in flower-gardening.

It is notable that a very large number of the autumn - flowering
herbaceous plants, especially those that flower very late, are members
of the very extensive natural order Composite?. One genus alone — the
Asters or Starworts — furnishes over a hundred species or so-called
species, many of them very beautiful, but many also quite unfit for the
purposes of decoration, or so little distinct one from another that the
cream of the group may be comprised in a very brief list. But a
selection of the best of these should be considered indispensable in
every garden which it is desired should be replete with flowers to
as late a period of the year as it is possible to obtain them in this
country. The following are a few of the best of this genus : —

A. amellus. — Pale blue, about 2 feet high, flowering in ordinary
seasons from the middle of August to the middle of October.

A. discolor. — White and reddish purple, 18 inches to 2 feet high,
neat and compact, and very floriferous ; flowering in August and
September.

A. Jem's.— Bright blue, about 2 feet high; flowering in September
and October.

A. novce-anglice. — One of the finest and most floriferous; but being
a tall grower (4 to 5 feet), it is somewhat troublesome in the matter of
staking, yet the immense showy clustered corymbs of large purplish
red flowers, lasting for a couple of months on end, render it a most
desirable plant for shrubbery or other mixed borders. It begins to
flower in September.

A. novi-belgii. — This is similar in stature and general character to
the last, and equally desirable. The flowers are deep brilliant blue,
and appear in September and October.

A. patens. — This species grows to the height of about 18 inches or 2
feet. The flowers are deep purple, — deeper than those of any other
species with which I am acquainted.

A. turbinellus. — Dark purplish blue ; flowers very large, in great
many-branched corymbs. It has the same objectionable habit as the
fourth and fifth named species, being tail and somewhat weak-kneed.
Among the Achilleas, A. ageratum is a very fine and showy autumn-
flowering species. The flowers are golden yellow, and appear from
July to October, according to the nature of the local climate.

A. eupatorium, which usually flowers in July and August, becoming
spent generally before September is far advanced, is this year bloom-
ing bravely now. By cutting over the stems of A. Ptarmica about
the end of June, a very late bloom of this most useful and desirable
species may be obtained. The small white flowers are indispensable for
making up bouquets.

fiuphthalmum salicifolium is a very showy autumn flower, not often

1879.] LATE AUTUMN -FLOWERING PLANTS. 493

met with in private gardens. The flowers are large, golden-yellow,
and appear in August, September, and October.

Coreopsis auriculata and C. lanceolata are both early autumn flowers,
the former often lasting till the end of September or beginning of
October. The flowers of both are yellow.

Rudbechia serotina, — A very striking plant, with very large purplish-
red flower-heads ; they appear in August and September.

Echinops Ritro. — This is the only species fit for ornamental purposes ;
but objections would in many cases be raised to its somewhat coarse
and Thistle-like foliage, yet the plant is a most striking one, and, when
in flower, attractive also. The flower-heads are perfectly globular,
almost resembling balls of indigo in colour ; they last two or three
months.

Galatella hyssopifolia. — A very showy Aster-like plant. It grows
about 18 inches high, with a branching corymb of beautiful pale-purple
flowers, opening in September and the two following months.

Helianthus multiflorus, fl. p>l. — A very handsome plant, with large
showy orange-yellow flowers, like those of a double Suvfloicer in minia-
ture. It flowers in August, September, and October.

Heldnum autumnale. — A very striking plant, somewhat coarse, yet
stately in habit, with large yellow flowers, opening from August to
October.

Liatris Pycnostachya. — Flower -heads deep purple, in long close
spikes. The plant grows to the height of 2 or 3 feet, one-half the
length of stem being flower-spike ; the flowers open in August and
September.

Linosyris vulgaris. — The flowers are yellow in terminal, much
branching, but nearly erect corymbs ; the plant about 18 inches high ;
flowering from August to November.

Stokesia cyanea. — One of the very handsomest of autumn-flowering
Compositce, but not early enough to be fully enjoyed except in the
most favoured parts of Scotland. The plant is quite hardy, but flowers
so late in the season that it becomes spoiled before it fully expands.
It is well worthy of culture in pots for conservatory decoration, and, as
a matter of fact, has for some years been one of the most favoured
plants in Covent Garden Market in autumn and early winter. It
grows about 18 inches high, the stems terminating in large deep sky-
blue flowers.

Solidago rigida. — The Solidagos are a very numerous class, but too
much alike in general appearance to present much that is useful from
an ornamental point of view. The sort just named is one of the most
distinct. It grows erect in a very rigid style to the height of about 3
feet, branching at the top into numerously branched racemose corymbs,
the branchlets taking a very horizontal direction from the main stem,
which is a very distinctive feature of the species ; the flowers, as in
nearly every species of Solidago, are yellow.

494 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

Harpalium rigidum. — This is one of the most showy of autumn
flowers. The flowers are very large, deep golden-yellow, with a con-
spicuous black disc. The plant attains to a height of about 3 feet, and
the flowers continue throughout September and October.

Stenactis speciosa. — Blue Aster-like flowers in open corymbs on erect
stems, appearing in August and September.

W. Sutherland.

Craigleitii Nursery, Edinburgh.

HARDY FRUITS.

The time has arrived when all planting of fruit-trees should be brought
to a close as speedily as possible. Though this may be done, and in some
cases extensively, between November and April, it is an established
opinion that the sooner the trees are in their places and the roots care-
fully protected, after the foliage has done its work of maturation, the
more healthy they are likely to become. This season's growth has
generally been later, and consequently the leaves will hang later;
but in most cases there will be every safety in proceeding with the
work of planting as early as means will allow. First of all, see that
drainage is perfect. Stagnant water is a certain destroyer of the
hardiest of fruit-trees. Drains 3 feet deep, and every 25 feet or less
apart, may be necessary for low-lying damp orchards. The minor
drains should be led into a main one, and that should carry the water
right off. Trees in such positions should be kept well above ground-
level at time of planting. If the whole ground can be trenched, so
much the better. Next to this, large holes should be formed, and at a
foot and a half from the surface a quantity of lime, rubbish, and broken
bricks may be firmly placed. It is of importance that the roots should
grow outwards instead of downwards. At the first they should be
placed evenly over the surface of the soil, and covered with good rich
loam ; and to keep the roots safe during the winter, a coating of litter
may be placed over the whole ; but when soil is not rich, half-rotten
horse-manure will suit well. It is always of importance to induce the
roots to grow upwards : this induces fruitfulness, and keeps the trees
in good health. Whether trees are planted on walls, espaliers, borders,
or in orchards, the treatment of the roots is on the same principle —
that of plenty of fibre near the surface, and an absence of those which
run downwards, Carrot-like, which keep the trees in gross growth,
barrenness, and liable to canker. Root-lifting and pruning are topics
which often create some attention at this season. In three contem-
poraries, views of cultivators are given, all varying more or less ; and
evidently some views are much opposed to others. One strongly
objects to root-cutting during the growing season ; another, who

i879-] HARDY FRUITS. 495

cultivates for market, begins his root-pruning as soon as he sees that
wood and leaves are being formed, and an absence of fruit. He is
evidently no novice — he secures abundance of fruit, which brings the
highest price in market. I have long advocated lifting of roots, and
done a fair amount of cutting, but it was always where they could not
be lifted up level without bending them so as to cause the growth of
suckers ; and in no case did I ever see injury from the practice.
I always prefer beginning in June or July along with stopping of the
wood, so that the roots may become healed up and fibre formed before
winter. One writer always lets his roots go, and when they cannot
be made to fruit by mulching with manure, he grubs them out and
plants young ones. I think few cultivators with a fair share of
common -sense would think of carrying out this practice to the
letter. We advise giving good wholesome top-dressings to the surface
when there are " surf ace - feeders " to benefit from such; but when
roots are growing down into the subsoil, away from sun and air,
get them up, and then top-dress to keep them up. Were it not
that it might lead non-practical readers astray, we could quote a
number of examples where root-pruning has been made short work of
and finished in a very summary manner during the growing season, — the
spade being the only instrument used for cutting them. One great
authority of undoubted success pointed out to us last year the differ-
ence of fruit, foliage, and growth of the summer-pruned roots (which
were something splendid) to those uncut ; but they at the time were
being manipulated by spade as if they were as many roots of brush-
wood doomed to destruction. Market-growers can do what they please
with their own, but not so one who cultivates for another. But enough
of this for the present : and we would advise young beginners to err
on the safe side till experience is gained.

Bushes of Currants and Gooseberries may be lifted and replanted
where growth is excessive. The practice is also good in preventing
the dying-off of bushes by disease at their collars. The removal of
suckers can also be accomplished easily.

If Raspberries are not thinned, they should have attention early, so
that the roots left may have every opportunity of ripening. A number
best roots may be saved for planting.

Pruning may be done as soon as the" leaves are off trees, except
Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots, which might have a light new
broom swept upwards over them to take off loose leaves. Shoots
which are unripened at the points may have the ends cut off them,
which will help to stop their growth.

In orchard-houses the chief of the fruit will be gathered. Any late
Plums or Peaches may be kept rather dry till they are cleared of their
fruit, then every effort should be made to get the wood ripened ; any
late growths should be pinched off. Trees planted out may require
lifting. This may be done at once. The trees should be turned round

496 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

to equalise the growth. When a number are lifted and turned round
every year, the stock can be kept equal in size ; and they have such
masses of fibre at their roots, that abundance of fine fruit is certain,
provided the trees are well nourished during their growing and fruit-
ing season. If scale or any other pest have taken quarters on the
trees, let them be washed well with soft soap-water heated to 120°.

M. T.

HERBACEOUS BULBS.

It will be necessary to explain what we mean by herbaceous bulbs.
Of course, all bulbs are herbaceous, none are shrubby or woody :
all are more or less annual in their parts ; at least, the same actual
bulb does not flower a second time. Looking at the subject closely, it
is difficult to define what a bulb really is. It is easy to realise that a
ripe Tulip or Hyacinth is a bulb ; so is an Onion or Snowdrop ; and a
ripe Crocus or Gladiolus may also be pronounced a bulb without chal-
lenge. A little further and we get to bulbs of Cyclamens, Gloxinias,
Begonias, Turnips, Potatoes, and many other things : then we begin to
change our nomenclature, and call them corms, tubers, &c. After all,
they are all pretty much of the same character — big buds with a por-
tion of stem attached. The buds on the stem of the Tiger Lily become
bulbs when placed underground ; and the swollen buds on the Potato
haulm become tubers or underground stems, with buds on them, when
placed in the ground. The bulb of the Hyacinth differs only from that
of the Agapanthus in that it is deciduous, while the other is evergreen,
just as the Onion differs from the Leek. Avoiding going further into
this maze of distinction without difference, we will explain simply that
by herbaceous bulbs we mean for the present all bulbs, whether ever-
green or otherwise, of a liliaceous character, which remain, or ought to
remain, in the soil all the year round, as distinguished from the ordi-
nary Dutch bulbs with which most people are familiar. One would
imagine that flowering bulbs were confined to Hyacinths, Tulips, and
Crocuses, judging from the rush there is after those for spring-flower-
ing ; just as summer flowers have to the popular mind become associ-
ated with Geraniums, forgetting or being ignorant of the fact that
there are very many beautiful bulbous plants which flower in com-
pany with the Hyacinth, and others which flower when the Hyacinth
is asleep. Indeed there is no time of the year, except, perhaps, three
of the winter months, in which some of these liliaceous bulbs may not
be found in flower ; and it is really marvellous, in visiting both public
and private gardens, to remark the absence of these old-fashioned
bulbs. The discovery of Lilium auratum seemed to arouse the public
mind to the fact that there was such a thing as a family of
Lilies in the world, and so collectors have rummaged up varieties from

i879-] HERBACEOUS BULBS. 497

all the ends of the earth. At the present time the Hyacinth has a rep-
resentative in the shape of Hyacinthus candicans, yet in bloom, a
gaunt-looking but interesting plant. The Colchicums, in variety single
and double, are now bearing it company, the latter not so common as
they might be ; so is the Belladonna Lily, where the climate and soil
are suitable ; and the more modest Sternbergia lutea, as hardy as the
Snowdrop — the first to close and the other to open the bulb season.
The Belladonna Lily is specially gorgeous when planted along the
front of a vinery or conservatory, in suitable light and peaty soil, and
allowed to remain undisturbed like the Colchicums. Between the
Sternbergia and the Snowdrop is only three months ; the other nine
can be filled up with a succession of these herbaceous bulbs : the Lilies
alone would fill the gap. But there are many old-fashioned bulbs be-
sides which are nearly forgotten, but which are to be often found in
cottage gardens, and gardens which have been neglected, or which
have escaped the modern march of improvement. How pleasant it is
to see great clumps of Fritillaria meleagris coming up in spring where
unexpected, growing and flowering anywhere ; or the sturdy Crown
Imperials, which require, however, to be well established in strong
clumps on good soil to flower well.

There are no herbaceous bulbs which surpass the Narcissus for hardi-
ness, beauty, or variety, — from the grassy little Hoop-petticoat, with its
ample flower, to the giant maximus, in all shades of yellow and white,
single and double. These, as well as the Polyanthus Narcissus, annually
make stronger and stronger clumps, flower earlier, and, of course, more
profusely, if left alone. The Pheasant Eye, single and double in
variety, are our favourite : as sweet - scented as Gardenias, and more
beautiful, they are not even surpassed by Eucharis or Phalsenopsis to
our taste. Everybody may now have them, as they are being offered
by the bushel like Onions. The bulbs we have seen this year are un-
usually large. The double varieties especially require a rich soil and
rich top-dressings, and plenty of room to develop themselves. The
old Muscaris botyroides and monstrosum, the Grape and Feather
Hyacinth, are herbaceous bulbs almost forgotten, except in the foresaid
cottage or neglected garden. The same may be said of the Scillas, ex-
cept siberica and bifolia. The Wood Hyacinths are showy and cheap ;
and though plentiful enough in the woods in some parts, are equally
unknown in others and about towns. The Day Lilies, of which there
are several varieties, all more or less yellow in colour, come in just
after the Narcissus, and are worthy of cultivation, though very old-
fashioned. They cannot be called bulbs, however, being evergreen,
their growth being more after the style of the Agapanthus— another
plant neglected, though hardy, in the south, and everywhere on light
soil. Then there are the Anthericum liliastrum, and spring and summer
Snowflakes, and the Ornithogalums, most of them native and conse-
quently hardy, that will grow anywhere, even among grass. The whole

498 THE GARDENER. (Nov.

of the Alstroemerias, which we may class among herbaceous liliaceous
bulbs, are of the most showy and Lasting character. Some of them are
still in flower : the variety of their colour and pencilling rivals the
Gladiolus. They have all stood the last severe winter on a rather wet
border, without the slightest protection. On a warm deep border in
the southern counties they are gorgeous. The Gladiolus itself, in all its
varieties, is best treated just like herbaceous plants. In well-prepared
soil they, in a very few years, make large massive stools from single
bulbs if let alone. We have a large quantity in a raised bed, with the
bulbs very near the surface, which have not been disturbed for years,
and the frosts of last winter did not affect them in the least. Now, in
the middle of October, they are a profusion of flowers. Their protec-
tion was a slight covering of bog earth and snow. There are several of
the narrow-leaved small-flowered species or allies of the Gladiolus
which will be found to be perfectly hardy in well-drained soil, such as
the Watsonias and Antholyzas. The Tritonias will sometimes bridge
over the winter with protection ; but there is no use going into doubt-
ful plants when there are so many perfectly hardy and of equal beauty
— as, for instance, the Tigridias, Spanish and English Irises, and the
whole range of Liliums, to the beauty of which the public are suffi-
ciently aroused. There are two of the Anemones which we wish spe-
cially to mention — namely, Nemorosa plena and apennina, — the first
the double form of the well-known Wood Anemone ; the other a plant
of precisely the same habit, but with a beautiful blue flower, a little
brighter than the common Wood Anemone. There is another class of
plants which may be classed among herbaceous plants though not
liliaceous, and whose roots are not strictly bulbous — the European
Cyclamens. The autumn-flowering ones are now gay on the rockery.
They do not seem very particular as to soil, and also seem indifferent
as to wet or dryness, although stagnant water would certainly kill
them. In some parts of the country the native C. Hedersefolia is
plentiful on dry banks, and for a time are as bright and interesting as
the Primulas. They are so easily raised from seed that it is surprising
they are not sought after for outdoor culture, as the Persian varieties
are for the conservatory. The Squire's Gardener.

THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN.

POTATOES.

The Potatoe is decidedly the most important vegetable crop grown,
and, unfortunately, the most precarious. A moderately heavy loam on
a whinstone bottom is the best soil for growing Potatoes to perfection,
and a tough clay the worst. Whatever kind of soil we may have at our
disposal must be made friable by thorough cultivation to grow them as
good as possible. As a rule, garden Potatoes are not half cultivated,

i879-] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 499

and the produce is generally of an inferior description. Wherever pos-
sible, the soil ought to be dug up roughly in autumn or early in winter
to allow of its being thoroughly pulverised by the action of the frost ;
and a good supply of well-decayed manure added at the same time,
unless the soil happens to be very rich, and in that case, a dressing of
wood-ashes and soot spread over the surface when the ground is frozen
hard in winter, will be much better than ordinary manure. Worms
generally abound in rich garden soil, and these cause Potatoes to be
scabbed, especially in dry seasons, as they scarify the skin to get at
the moisture ; but wood-ashes and soot do much to cause worms to
take themselves off, and so the crop comes cleaner, and of better
quality, as scabbed Potatoes are generally watery. The addition of
rich manure to such soil only aggravates the mischief, and does not add
so much to the weight of tubers as to the weight of shaws, which,
again, encourages damp and fosters the blight in such dripping
seasons as the one we have just passed through. Salt and soot,
applied in the ame way as recommended for ashes, have proved to
be very beneficia in inland positions, more especially in light porous
soils from which the saline matter is easily washed by heavy rains.
The ash of Potatoes contains 2| per cent of common salt, and most
vegetables as much or more ; and stable-yard manure seldom contains
more than 1 per cent, and the rains, as we have said, wash it away
easily, so it will at once be seen that salt must be beneficial as a
manure in all districts where the rain is free from it. Perhaps the
most economical way of applying it is to sprinkle it in the drills at
planting-time, and when this is done, fine, large, clean tubers will
generally result. Heavy clay will be much improved for this crop if
part of it be burnt, along with any inflammable material to hand, and
spread over the ground : leaf-mould is also a good dressing for such
soils.

Planting ought to be done with the fork, and the soil broken fine
during the process. Early sorts should have a sunny dry spot, prefer-
ably a south border ; and ample room ought to be afforded them, which
is what very few people give. Kidney varieties, and others with dwarf
shaws, should not be planted closer than 2 feet between the rows,
and 1 foot between the plants ; and on good soil even more should be
allowed. Planted closer the result is that there is always a large per-
centage of small Potatoes of very little use, whereas with room to grow
there should be no small Potatoes to speak of if the soil be treated as
it should, and the weight from a given piece of ground will be greater.
Large growing kinds are planted here at 3 feet between the rows, and
2 feet between the sets, and closer planting we regard as downright
waste of garden ground.

It is a great mistake to pick and sow the smallest Potatoes for seed.
It pays far better and gives greater satisfaction in the end to pick the
best, and were this generally done change of seed would be much less

500 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

necessary than it is. Another mistake generally perpetrated by seed
growers, is to lift the Potatoes while only half-grown, under the idea
that such Potatoes make better seed. There is no exception that we
know of to the rule that all seeds, tubers, &c, are better fully matured
than half matured ; and having made experiments on this point, we
maintain that Potatoes cannot be too well matured. We are also well
satisfied that, ivhen good cultivation is given, changing the seed is
a great mistake. When they are badly cultivated the case may be
different. The writer grows a collection for exhibition in which he is
pretty successful, and he finds that should he require to buy fresh seed
of any standard variety it takes him two, and even three, years of good
cultivation to bring them up to their proper character. Here are two
secrets for would-be successful exhibitors. Keep your Potatoes clean
and sound by the use of ashes, salt, and soot, and a finely-broken soil,
and get them into character by not changing your seed, but by good
cultivation, and the selection of your finest tubers annually. It may
be objected that we have only written for those who wish to exhibit.
Not so. You will find the same principles profitable when growing for
the supply of the kitchen. The Potato is easily grown, and so it is
never half -grown like every thing else that is easily grown, from
Herbaceous border plants to Geraniums and Fuchsias.

Preparing the Seed. — Laying the tubers out in sun to green does
no good unless they are half -matured only. Keep them in a dry pit or
a cool shed where no frost can reach them, nor yet so warm that they
will spring into growth before March. About the end of March lay
them in a warm place in a greenhouse, or vinery, or other place, as cir-
cumstance may direct, to cause them to spring ; and if they are sprung
a quarter of an inch by the middle of April, and the soil is in a dry
warm condition, they should be cut into sets of not more than two eyes
each. Let them lie and dry a little before planting them. Plant in
the manner directed, three or four inches deep, in a broad shallow
trench, and cover over with fine dry mould. As soon as they are fairly
through the ground, go over them with the fork and break up the soil,
which will very likely be battered down with the rain, and destroy all
weeds, and throw out all sticks and stones in the operation. Repeat
this again in three weeks or so, and when the stems are tall enough,
earth them up with the draw-hoe. Thin out the stools to two, or at
the most three, stems, and leave the strongest. Small weakly shoots
only produce small worthless Potatoes, and, by crowding the others,
harm them. Perhaps we may be expected to say something on the dis-
ease ; but we confess we are helpless. Our own are very badly diseased,
Magnum Bonum alone standing out ; and we do not hesitate to say
that this is at present the most valuable Potato which we possess. It
is proving to be a splendid cropper. We had it in very good condition
in August, kept over from last year's crop ; and it stands disease better
than any other which we know of : a Potato with a better character

1879.] ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS. 501

has yet to be raised. Champion, about which we heard so much a year
or two ago, will not compare with it on any one desirable quality which
a Potato should possess. It is a very strong grower, however, and
demands ample room.

Potatoes ought to be lifted and stored, in the way noticed above,
whenever the stems decay, from whatever cause — whether ripeness,
disease, or frost — as nothing but harm can come to them after the tops
are gone, or even going. In the case of those which are attacked with
disease, immediate lifting will often save a great number, which would
be destroyed were they allowed to stand. The disease commences in
the leaves, and does not spread to the tubers quite instantaneously,
although it does so, often in a few days. Gardener.

ORNAMENTAL TREES AND SHRUBS.

cistus (the rock rose).

Of the long list of species which compose this genus of beautiful
flowering evergreen shrubs, comparatively few have been found
sufficiently hardy for open-air cultivation in Britain, and even these
require the shelter of a wall to enable them to survive the rigours of
our ordinary winters. The great bulk of the sorts are indigenous to
the south of Europe, where they are widely distributed ; but a few
are found in Northern Asia, and on the African shores of the Mediter-
ranean. Most of the species are of free growth in ordinary soils, pre-
ferring such as are light and well drained. They are all more or less
remarkable for the fugaciousness of their flowers, the corollas in most
cases expanding in the morning and falling off at sunset. As others,
however, come on in rapid succession and in great abundance, the
plants maintain their gay appearance for five or six weeks in summer.
This peculiarity is thus prettily alluded to by one of the poets, who

says —

" Yet though the gauzy hells fall fast,

Long ere appears the evening crescent,
Another bloom succeeds the last,
As lovely and as evanescent."

A resinous gum, which exudes from the leaves and youDg branches of
most of the species, notably from those of C. ladaniferus, and known
in commerce by the name of " labdanum," has a pleasant aromatic
fragrance, and is used medicinally in a variety of ways, particularly
in plasters, and by perfumers in the preparation of cosmetics. This
substance is said to have formerly been gathered from the beards of
the "goats, whereon it collected while they browsed on the plants."

502 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

It is now, however, collected by a leather comb drawn over the
branches, to the teeth of which the juice readily adheres, forming
an ever-thickening crust, and is easily scraped off with a knife.

C. ladaniferus (The Gum Cistus). — This is an evergreen shrub of
about 5 feet in height, indigenous to Spain and Portugal in moun-
tainous districts. It has been cultivated in our gardens since 1629.
The leaves are oblong-lanceolate, smooth, dark-green on the upper
surface, and slightly hoary below. The flowers are white, with a
dark-brownish or crimson spot at the base of each petal, appearing
in wonderful profusion in June and July. This is one of the most
valuable of our wall shrubs, hardy, and of robust growth in any situa-
tion where the soil is dry and moderately rich, and, like all its con-
geners, remarkably patient under the pruning-knife. As it flowers,
however, from the shoots of the previous year, care should always be
taken to thin the branches, rather than indiscriminately cutting off
all the young wood. The so-called species, " Cyprius," or Island of
Cyprus Cistus, differs only from this in its flowers being destitute of
the beautiful blotch so attractive in those of the Gum Cistus, and is
probably only a variety : it is interesting, however, as a companion
plant in collections of wall shrubs.

C. laurifolius (The Laurel -leaved Cistus). — A robust evergreen
shrub, found naturally over a wide area in Spain and the south of
France, where it grows to the height of about 6 feet. It was intro-
duced to our gardens in 1771. The leaves are large, of an ovate-
lanceolate form, thick and leathery in texture, smooth dark-green
above, and covered on the under surface with a minute down. The
flowers, which appear in July and August, are pure white, clothed
with prominent red bracts, which are very ornamental just before
the flowers expand. This is a very free-growing species, one of the
hardiest in cultivation, and very desirable for covering walls. It
stands, however, in many districts as a specimen shrub in the open
border, when planted in light, well-drained soil.

C. purpureus (The Purple-flowered Cistus). — This is a species intro-
duced from the Levant so early as 1659. It is a sub-evergreen, with
an erect bushy habit of growth, from 3 to 4 feet in height. The
leaves are oblong-lanceolate, prominently veined, undulated at the
margins, and of a dark-green colour. The flowers, which are produced
in June and July in great abundance, are reddish-purple, with a bright-
yellow spot at the base of each petal. The petals are imbricated and
crumpled. The young branches are covered with a minute pubescence.
Though somewhat tender, even on a sheltered wall, this species deserves
a trial in any favourable situation, the abundance and brilliancy of
its flowers, and its neat distinct foliage, rendering it quite a feature

1879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 503

in a collection of dwarf wall-plants. A dry, well-drained soil is essen-
tial to its wellbeing, and a slight covering during the severest of the
winter will in most cases save it from damage.

C. Corbariensis (The Corbieres Cist us). — A distinct-looking dwarf
evergreen, seldom exceeding 3 feet in height. Found wild over a
large area in Spain and the south of France, especially on the moun-
tains of Corbieres, from whence it is reported as having been sent to
this country in 1656. The leaves are of an ovate form, distinctly
acuminate, wrinkled on both sides ; the margins fringed, of a deep-
green colour, and very glutinous. The flowers appear in May and
June, generally in remarkable profusion. They are pure white, the
margins of the petals tinged with delicate rose. This is one of the
hardiest, as well as the most ornamental, of the genus. It is of very
free growth, and well worthy of a prominent place among neat, dwarf,
wall evergreens. Hugh Fraser.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

Writing in one of the magazines lately, Mr Anthony Trollope says the most
difficult thing that a man has to do is to think. There are many, he tells us,
who can never bring themselves really to think at all, but do whatever think-
ing is done by them in a chance fashion, with no effort, using the faculty which
the Lord has given, because they, as it were, cannot help themselves. To
think is essential, all will agree, continues this pleasant writer, and that it is
difficult most will acknowledge who have tried it. This passage might be
studied with advantage by some writers of the horticultural press. No one
will deny, we think, that the contributions sent to the gardening papers by the
practical section of the fraternity are, for the most part, sound and prac-
tical, as well as conscientiously written ; but neither can it be denied that
some horticultural writers belong to that class which Anthony Trollope says
never bring themselves to think at all, or else think in a chance fashion only.
AVhen such writers confine themselves to a relation of their practice and its
results, they do not err so seriously ; it is when they begin to speculate on the
causes of things that their lamentable incapacity and unreasoning dogmatism
appear. There is no harm in a writer stating his opinions, of course, and he
may be excused for being positive in these when he is certain of -what he
writes ; but censure, and, it may be added, pity, only can be extended to a
man who, on the strength of his own insufferable conceit and ignorance,
attempts to ride rough-shod over his neighbours in matters of practice and
opinion. We sometimes laugh at the foibles and conceits of scientific men and
savants, but, judged by their public speeches and writings, it must be con-
fessed that they are, as a rule, both logical and honest in all that they do, —
and that much cannot be said for some writers on horticultural topics. Such
men as Darwin, Owen, Huxley, and others, and, we are glad to say, plenty of
good horticulturists, exhibit a praiseworthy consistency and honesty in their
writings and investigations that might well be imitated by horticultural and
arboricultural scribes of doubtful calibre and reputation, whose vanity leads

504 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

them to commit errors and absurdities that would make them hide their heads
in confusion, could they only "see themselves as others see them." Some
writers presume upon their age and experience on some particular line, that has
rendered them oblivious to everything else, to scold everybody who differs
from them, no matter on what ; while others are quite as presumptuous and
dogmatic upon even less experience and very slender abilities, either as teachers
or practitioners. The miserable sophistry and worse logic displayed in nu-
merous instances is truly pitiable. Very accurate reasoning and clearness of
expression is not to be expected from men who have not been trained to think
logically and methodically; but it would be more to the credit of those to whom
these remarks apply if they would but concentrate their attention in an
attempt to tell in an intelligible manner what they do know, and are sure
about, instead of dealing in vague generalities and platitudes which serve no
purpose and only bring the writer into contempt.

I am pleased to see, Mr Editor, that you have at last got out of
hot water. You should really make allowance for the capacities of your
readers, and not tax them too severely. In attempting to gather up the
threads of the discourse in a sequent manner, our mind was fast approaching
a chaotic condition, and we have, perforce, been compelled to discontinue the
study. Before we begin again we mean to follow the example of Descartes,
and get all former ideas and impressions effaced from our mind, and begin with
a clean state. How we have commiserated the Editor over the ' ' copy " ! There
was a rumour abroad that he had to fly to the solitudes of the Lake district
about the most acute period of the discussion, in order to restore his mental equi-
librium. If we have been wrongly informed, Mr Editor, we beg your pardon.
Now let us see how far on we have got now. For the last twenty years or
more these periodical hot-water storms have occurred with the utmost regular-
ity, and scourged every horticultural paper in the land, until the subject now
frightens editors about as much as the " Peronospora infesteus," and the
" Resting Spore," pace W. G. S. Some twenty years ago, or rather more — for
we speak from memory — Mr Thomson of Dalkeith wrote, in the ' Scottish Gar-
dener,' that he could heat something like 500 or 600 feet of 4-inch piping in
about an hour and forty minutes, by a moderate-sized retort boiler. In other
words, from the time the fire was lit till the heat could be felt in the return-
pipe close to the holier, 100 minutes elapsed. The pipes were arranged on
various levels in the usual way, and heated numerous divisions. Ye senior
and junior hot-water wranglers, have ye accomplished more than this? What
is the practical outcome of your hair-splitting disquisitions on hot- water cir-
culation?—a question that has been settled long ago by eminent engineers and
others, who at least understand the matter. Discussions on this subject, as in
the present instance, have generally been based on the question of sunken
stoke-holes, which, it seems taken for granted, must be avoided if possible.
But are sunken stoke-holes such an unmixed evil ? We know gardens where all
the stoke-holes have been kept under ground by special desire. Nor did they
cost more than above-ground structures would have done ; and what would
have been an obnoxious eyesore was abolished.

While on this subject it may be mentioned that means have been discovered
whereby petroleum can be burnt effectively under boilers at a cost about equal
to coal, but in a way that presents important advantages over the latter. More
will likely be heard of the discovery by-and-by, if it accomplishes all that is
claimed for it ; but as yet we believe it has only been tried under steam-boilers.

This has been a most unfortunate year, so far, for the weather prophets. It

1879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 505

was widely predicted that we were to be nearly frizzled up by scorching heat
some time in June or July, whereas we were, on the contrary, nearly drowned
and starved. About the same period the lower orders in London and elsewhere
were much disquieted by another prediction of our old friend " Mother Shipton "
— who is always turning up periodically — to the effect that all the young
and the old were to perish off the face of the earth during the present year.
Up till the present time the dreadful visitation has not happened, and health
statistics lead us to hope we shall escape finally. One of your contemporaries
of the daily press tells us: "Many people have concluded that the weather
of the past twelve months has been unwholesome so far as the public health
is concerned ; but this is not so. The metropolitan death-rate has been con-
siderably less than the average, and has not been so low since 1860, when, as
now, there was an excessive rainfall. Therefore, although the summer has
not been an enjoyable one — indeed it was one in which many classes of the
community suffered heavy loss — it was one of the healthiest we have had for
nearly twenty years." "We are pleased to have something good to say about
the weather.

A correspondent of ' The Farmer ' asks a very pertinent question: "Why
do pot-plants die? " We persume he means those pot-plants that do not die
a natural death, or get pitched to the rubbish heap. It is a wide question,
and might be answered shortly, that plants die from being kept too hot and
too cold, too wet and too dry ; from being prunned too much and too little,
and from being mismanaged in a number of ways that will readily suggest
themselves to gardeners. The question might be discussed, and discussed
instructively, for a twelvemonth ; and we commend the subject to those who are
short of one.

Mr C. P. Pead states, in the ' Journal of Horticulture,' that he has thoroughly
proved the fallacy of the assertion that Grapes cannot be growrn in the same
house with plants. It says a good deal for Mr Pead's ability that he has been
able to prove the fallacy of an assertion that we are sure was never made by
any gardener worthy of the name. We know a good many gardens, great
and small, but none where plants are not grown more or less extensively along
with Vines — in plenty of instances all the year round. Gardeners do not
approve of the practice, but they are, in the majority of cases, compelled to
follow it.

The present time being rather a barren one for the newspapers, they have
turned their attention to rural matters, and we extract the following from the
' Globe,' on Bees : —

" It has always been a matter for regret to all thoughtful persons that the
keeping of Bees in this country is more systematically neglected than any
other industry, and that, in consequence a most valuable gift of nature to man
is ruthlessly and persistently wasted. In 1874, when the British Bee-keepers'
Association was formed, Mr John Hunter declared that for every hive at pres-
ent in this country there ought to be a thousand, and that for every pound
of honey gathered a ton was lost. But an argument in favour of an industry
requires something more than a statement of its advantages to the individual
engaged in it and to the community at large. It is also necessary to show
clearly that it can be conducted profitably, and here we have no difficulty.
According to all authorities, there can be no doubt in the world but that in a
good season the profit is large enough to tempt the most usurious, or that in
the worst possible year the loss — at the most a few pounds of brown sugar —
is so small that the most miserly need not be afraid of the risk. Mr Pettigrew

2 M

506 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

— the son of the 'old Bee-man,' of Carluke, in Lanarkshire — made a profit off
the business at the rate of 62, lis. 8d. per hive per annum on an average of six
years ; but he was noted as a skilful apiarist, and such a result must not be
expected everywhere. Mr Hunter, and other authorities, estimate that the
cost of a swarm of English Bees would be about 15s., and the cost of the wear
and tear of hives 2s. per annum. For this the return should be at least 25
lb. of honey, value 25s. ; 3 lb. or 4 lb. of wax, worth 4s., and a swarm of Bee*,
worth 15s. Thus the first year's outlay would be more than returned that
year, and in after years £2 per hive profit might be expected. In good years,
when two or more swarms turn out, or when the super of 50 lb. or 100 lb.
gladdens the eye of the jubilant Bee-keeper, the profits will be correspondingly
large. This profit ought to be sufficient to tempt a much larger number of
persons to keep Bees than at present do so ; and we advise all our readers
having a garden, or living near fields, or in rural districts, to see if they can-
not add a little to the natural productions of the country by assisting to save
that 'sweetness' which is at present 'wasted on the desert air.' The
amount of this waste is enormous. A 20-acre field of grass well sprinkled
with the flowers of the white clover will yield 100 lb. of honey per day, and a
piece of moorland the same size, with heather in flower, will yield 200 lb. of
honey per day, and yet in each case enough will be left to scent the air as
well. Pettigrew tells us that in one garden — and not a very large one — he has
seen fifty hives standing, the strongest of which has gathered 5 lb. of honey
per day, in fine weather, and the weakest 3 lb. There are three classes of
persons to whom we would recommend this industry : (1) capitalists ; (2)
farmers and cottagers and railway servants ; and (3) that large body of
business men who have 'a place a little way out.' We believe that a man
with a little capital would find it profitable in the districts of the moors, or of
good grass lands, to start colonies of Bees in which the hives number hundreds ;
aud a few such men would find little, if any, difficulty in getting a skilful
attendant at a reasonable cost to look after them."

Recent comments on the subject of Strawberry-culture by the press, induces
us to give an extract from a late number of ' Chambers's Journal,' on the Scotch
Strawberry-farms in Perthshire. "On the Muir of Blair," says this journal,
"an extensive tract of land lying between Blairgowrie and Coupar-Angus,
there is a community of about twenty-five Strawberry -farmers who earn a
living for themselves and families at the business of Strawberry-growing.
The fruit is usually sold en masse to the preservers ; and in some years as
much as £46 an acre has been realised by the sale ; but the average income
from a Scottish Strawberry-farm is seldom more than £27 an acre. An acre
of Strawberries will sometimes yield the splendid return of £100! Apropos
of the Perthshire Strawberry-farms, it was reported two years ago that one of
the growers had been offered over £2000 for his lot of twenty-seven acres just
as it stood."

It would almost seem as if the demand for horticultural information was at
least equal to the supply when that information is placed within reach of the
gardening public at a moderate price. We have now quite a number of
weekly and monthly gardening periodicals, not to speak of provincial papers
that furnish horticultural information in their pages regularly, and yet there
seems room for more. It is stated that the circulation of the penny ' Gardening
Illustrated,' started only a short time since, is now over 30,000 copies per
week, which speaks well for gardening among the lower orders, as well as for
the sagacity of the founder of the paper. PtEADER.

i879-] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 507

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

The Calceolaria.

No one can but admire a stage or shelf filled with the herbaceous
Calceolaria when in bloom, and to see a whole house filled with them
is a sight not easily forgotten. Even when a few are mixed among
other greenhouse plants, visitors are almost sure to take notice of them ;
the beauty and brilliancy of their colours, and almost innumerable
variety in the markings, render them very choice and desirable objects
for greenhouse decoration. They are very easy of cultivation, and are
quite within the reach of any one possessing a greenhouse, however
small, or even a garden frame. Though young plants can be raised
from cuttings, this method is seldom resorted to, unless to perpetuate
some particular variety. They are best and easiest raised annually
from seed.

The proper time to sow the seed is from the middle to the end of
July. The pot or pan should be well drained, and filled up nearly to
the rim with a mixture consisting chiefly of leaf- mould and sand,
with a little loam added to give consistency. Use the rougher portion
of the soil for the bottom of the pot, and finish with some finely sifted
soil on the top, after which sprinkle the seed thinly on the surface, and
press in gently with a piece of board. No covering of soil is required,
the seed being so small. Water through a very fiue rose, cover with
a piece of glass, and place the pot in a cool place, where it may have a
little shade and be out of draught. A little moss may be sprinkled over
the glass to afford shade until the young plants begin to show them-
selves, when the shading should be removed, and a little air admitted
by tilting up the glass on one side, and gradually increasing the quan-
tity until the glass be dispensed with altogether.

When the young plants are large enough to handle, they must be
pricked out singly into small pots, using the same kind of soil, only
having a little more loam added to it. They may be set in a cold pit
or frame, and shaded slightly until they get hold of the soil, when the
shading may be discontinued, and air given in moderate quantities. See
that they do not suffer from want of water, and keep green-fly in check
by fumigating. They will require to be shifted into larger pots about
the middle of October : 4-inch pots will be large enough to winter them
in. A little old cow-dung may be mixed with the soil for this potting.
They should be kept near the glass, and fully exposed to the light, and
watered when they require it during winter. The temperature of the
pit should never range higher than 45° during the winter months.
Towards the end of February they will have started into vigorous
growth, and will then require to be shifted into larger pots. Generally
speaking, 6-inch pots are large enough in which to flower them ; but if
large plants are wanted, a few of the strongest may be put into 8-inch
pots. Let the compost consist largely of good fibry loam, broken to

508 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

pieces, not sifted, and a liberal admixture of leaf-mould and sand, with
a sprinkling of old manure mixed with it. The pots should be cleanly
washed and carefully crocked, with an inch of old manure over the
crocks. They must be still kept near the glass, and liberally aired on
every suitable occasion. When the flower stems begin to appear they
may get an occasional watering with weak liquid-manure, which will
impart vigour to the plants, and improve the size and colour of the
flowers. The centres should never be pinched out (the practice of
many growers), as invariably the finest flowers are on the centre stem.

"When the accommodation for wintering them in quantity is limited,
they will do fairly well pricked out into pans or boxes, and potted up
early in spring. Of course they will not be quite so good as those grown
on in pots ; still for ordinary purposes they will do very well.

Now a word as regards the saving of seed. A very common prac-
tice is to set the plants outside in some out-of-the-way place to
ripen the seed, where they are often neglected, and become a prey to
green-fly. If good seed is wanted, they should be as carefully looked
after as when they are in a young growing state : at this stage they are
even more subject to the attacks of aphides, from being so long under
glass while in flower, so that they should be kept in a place where they
can be fumigated, and properly attended to with water. The pots being
crammed with roots, the demand for water is greater than ever.

J. G., W.

THE GARDENER'S PRIMER.

NO. VI.

So amenable are leaf -buds on stems to scientific treatment, that
buds apparently dormant may be started, and set in motion, and
become branches, by the simple plan, in the month of February, of
cutting a notch with a fine saw in the bark just above it, so as to
check the upward flow of the sap — the too rapid growth of the stem
has caused the bud to be dormant — and arrest or divert some of it into
the dormant leaf-bud, which will become a branch (in fact, a branch
is only a developed leaf-bud). This is one of the many methods by
which gardeners repair the loss of a branch where one has been lost
on a pyramid tree, to give it symmetry.

Grafting is an operation at present confined to dicotyledonous
plants, by means of which a portion of a plant containing one or
more eyes or buds, called a scion or graft, is joined or inserted in
another plant belonging to the same species, called the stock, and is
effected in many different modes (not within the object of the writer
to explain), such as by approach or inarching, or by detached scions,

1 879.] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 509

or by budding — that is bud-grafting — but the result is the same. After
the union is perfected the growth of the scion takes place, and the
stock henceforth bears the scion instead of one of its own growth,
which has been cut off and removed. Grafting has not been success-
ful with monocotyledonous plants.

One object of grafting is to change the permanent characters of the
graft or scion, by improving the flavour of the fruit, or rendering it
more productive, of which there is some doubt ; though it would be
easy to surmise that a difference between the contents of the cambium
layer or of the cell-tissue of the foster-parent or stock and that of the
graft or scion might alter or retard the growth of the scion, so as
to cause the production of fruit-buds instead of leaf-buds. Another
object of grafting is to restore an old worn-out tree by cutting off
its branches and using the stem as the stock, and grafting on it
a new scion or graft. Another object is to propagate and increase
a larger number of trees — for instance, recent introductions into
this country — by grafting scions of them on to older and less
valuable trees, and so provide a larger number than would otherwise
be possible to do except during a number of years. Another object
of grafting may be to place on the same monoecious plant the two
necessary organs of a perfect plant — namely, the stameniferous and
pistilliferous flowers. It need hardly be observed, that after the
union of the graft or scion with the stock is perfect, the individual
characteristics of the graft or scion are preserved. It is a popular
fallacy that the blood-red Orange has been procured by grafting the
Orauge scion on the Pomegranate-tree.

By scientifically pruning fruit-trees in summer-time, buds which
might otherwise remain leaf-buds are arrested and metamorphosed into
fruit-buds ; but fruit-buds, when once formed, can hardly be turned
into leaf-buds, though they may be rendered abortive : and by im-
proper treatment of a Vine, as by excess of moisture and heat, a crop
of tendrils only may be produced instead of a crop of Grapes. And
these cases are not difficult to understand when it is remembered that
the different parts of a flower, even pistils and stamens, are only modi-
fications of leaves, and that the tendril of the Vine is a modified
llower peduncle — a continuation of the main axis. It is made up
of a common peduncle, bearing two branches, — one is the flower
tendril, always longer than the other branch, which is the flowering
part or sub-peduncle. It is this sub-peduncle which is so easily
modified, by improper treatment, into a tendril, however strange this
behaviour may seem to be.

The flower-bud of mono- and di-cotyledonous plants, like the leaf-bud,
consists of leaves placed at the extremity of the stem or branch of a

510 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

plant, but so metamorphosed from the ordinary leaf-bud that it re-
quires some attentive study to understand it. It is either sessile or
placed on a simple stalk, called a peduncle, on the top of which is
the receptacle on which some of the floral organs rest (this peduncle
is sometimes curiously hollowed out, as in the flower of the Rose and
Apple, and in the Fig it contains the flowers), or it is placed on a
branched stalk called a pedicel. If we examine it, beginning at the
outside, we have first, at the base of the peduncle, a whorl of leaves
called bracts, not necessarily green (in Bougainvillea spectabilis,
coloured), of which there are several kinds, from the simple forms
to the more elaborate spathe of Arum ; or if it is at the base of a
pedicel, we shall have bracteoles or an involucre. Then come the
floral whorls, generally four in number, consisting first of the calyx
and its parts or pieces, called sepals (sepalline leaves), not necessarily
green (in the Fuchsia, coloured); then comes the corolla, its parts called
petals, also metamorphosed leaves : and here we must revert to the
discoveries of Mr H. C. Sorby of the different kinds of pigments in
leaf-structure, and notice that the law of continuity running through
the leaf-structure of every plant, wherever found, will hold good in
the corolla, and explain how pigments in the leaf may also show
themselves in the petals of the corolla; and one is not surprised
to hear that it has been said that the greater the metamorphosis
of leaf-structure, as in an irregular flower, the more variation of
colour and markings may be expected. (This may or may not be
so.) Then come, in our examination, the stamens, which are still
metamorphosed leaves (staminate leaves), each stamen consisting of
a stalk or filament with an anther on the top, one or more lobed,
supplied with pores or valves containing minute cells, often yellow,
generally in a free state, sometimes in company with others, some-
times stuck together, containing fluid protoplasm, called pollen, —
they are parent cells, not grains, as they are often called. The for-
mation of the free pollen cell — its structure and its behaviour in the
protrusion of the pollen tube, and its endless diversity of appearance
in the higher plants, easily seen under the microscope — will soon teach
the gardener that there is no chance work here, but that all is the
work of some master-mind. In the centre of the flower is the pistil,
consisting of stigma, style, and ovary, also formed of metamorphosed
(pistillar) leaves, or carpellary leaves or carpels, the edges of which
have been so folded and tucked inwards as to form the style, of which
there are many different forms ; and at its summit the stigma, formed
of cellular tissue, but without epidermis, whose office is to receive
the pollen cell, which, either by falling upon, or by the work of in-
sects, comes in actual contact with the stigma, and is soon followed

i879-] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 511

by the protrusion of the pollen tube (in Orchids this tube may
easily be seen and traced to the ovule), which, passing through the
stigma and style (often cylindrical), fertilises and energises the ovule
in the ovary at the base of the pistil. These ovules are regarded as
buds formed in the axils of carpellary leaves, and are the seeds, some-
times called seed-buds. The structure of the style (not always present),
and the divisions of the ovary into dissepiments, all point to the
fitting together of the edges or sides of so many carpellary leaves —
the number of which made use of may sometimes be ascertained by
counting the dissepiments of the ovary. The fruit, strictly speaking,
is the matured ovary of the pistil (in its fruit state metamorphosed
into the pericarp or seed-vessel), the result of the fertilisation of the
pistil of one flower produced by the interaction of stamens. To un-
derstand the complicated question aright the gardener should study
the flower while in blossom, and watch the silent changes and modi-
fications of the ovary, whether for protection of the seeds or for
food. One modification is into the pericarp, which consists of three
layers, very clearly seen in the Peach — namely, the skin or epicarp,
the fleshy pulpy layer called the mesocarp, and the stone, called the
endocarp or covering of the kernel. It is to the adherence of the
mesocarp to the endocarp that some varieties of Peaches have ob-
tained the name of clingstone, and to the freeness with which others
separate from the endocarp, the name of freestone owes its origin.
Other modifications are the pulpy disk or receptacle of the Strawberry,
the calyx and ovary and receptacle of the Apple, the developed
pulpy state of the placenta of the Gooseberry and Grape, the bracts
and floral envelopes of the Pine-apple, the peduncle of the Fig, and
the calyx in the Rose. It will soon occur to him that he should 'find
some trace of the style of the pistil, which he may often do (except in
Cycadeae and Coniferse) even in a grain of wheat, which is a fruit and
not a seed, and that our simple definition of fruit is not always sufficient.
Several systems of classification of fruits are in use, none of them alto-
gether satisfactory. We shall confine our remarks to simple, and mul-
tiple or compound, fruits. Simple fruits are formed either by the pistil
of one flower out of a single carpel or carpellary leaf, instances of which
are, — the follicle (Prcony) — the legume (Pea) — the achaenium (plural
achseaia) or achene, a closed fruit, dry, small nut, with the pericarp
as in Sunflower — the caryopsis as in Wheat — the drupe (Peach) ; or
by the pistil of one flower out of several free carpels or carpellary
leaves, instances of which are, — several dry achenes on a dry elevated
receptacle, as in Ranunculus — an etserio, that is, many fleshy drupes
together, as in Rubus — dry achenes seated on a fleshy receptacle, as
in Strawberry ; or by the pistil of one flower formed out of several

512 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

combined carpels or carpellary leaves, — the nut (Hazel, Acorn,
Sweet Chestnut) ; the berry (Gooseberry, Currant, and Grape) ; hes-
peridium (( Irange) j pome (Apple) ; pepo (Cucumber). The Holly is
;i drupe of four carpels combined with four seeds. The fruit of
Hippophae is achenes in a large coloured berry-like perianth. Mul-
tiple or compound fruits are the Sorosis (Pine-apple), a metamor-
phosed flower-spike with fleshy bracts and perianth ; and the Mul-
berry, a spike of fruits ; the Scyonus a hollow club-like receptacle
formed out of the peduncle, as in Ficus carica (the Fig), lined with
flowers inside it, seldom both barren and fertile in the same fig. The
ovules at the base of pistil in each flower have been fertilised by
small flies belonging to the genus Cynips, which resort thither to lay
their eggs. It is said to be a trioecious plant — that is, to have either
stamens or pistil, or stamens and pistil, in three different flowers in
same Fig ; and the strobilus or cone of the Pine, a spike with woody
bracts. To revert to the ovule or seed-bud, or seed, as it is generally
called, it is a mono- di- or poly-cotyledonous plant, according to its
parentage, in miniature, made up of nucleus and integument : it con-
tains in the embryo state its proper compliment of cotyledons, a
plumule and radicle. The embryo differs in mono- and di-cotyle-
donous plants ; its position, formation, and mode of attachment, the
presence or absence of albumen, have all been utilised for the pur-
pose of assisting in framing accurate diagnoses of plant-structure.

Whatever the structure of the fruit may be, it will be the main busi-
ness of the gardener to learn how to produce it, how and when to gather
it, and how to keep it for use. He will find that the Pear is a bag of
cellular tissue in its early stage containing protoplasm ; afterwards
starch and sugar are supplied to it by the leaves of the parent tree ;
probably the cells on the rind contain chlorophyll, and assist in decom-
posing carbon dioxide (carbonic acid). After the Pear is gathered
from the tree, there is so much life in it that it does not die, but
resists decay. With its surface exposed to the air, however, chemical
changes still go on in it, which result in the decomposition of the
sugar in it, and the formation of alcohol and then ether, which gives
to it its flavour and aroma ; and as the process goes on the outside
skin softens, spores of fungi soon penetrate into the inside of the
fruit, and finding there suitable food, grow and induce fermentation,
and the Pear loses its flavour, and the tissues are restored back again
to their original elements, out of which the Pear was formed.

The young gardener will soon observe that some fruits — such as
Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Pine-apples, Melons, &c. — are gathered
some days, and Strawberries two or three hours, before they are
considered to come to their flavour, or rather before the flavour

1879.] GARDENS ENCLOSED WITH GLASS. 513

comes to them. Probably the reason for this practice is, that after
the separation of the fruit from the tree or plant, in hot weather a
few days, and in the case of the Strawberry a few hours, suffice to
decompose the sugar and form the alcohol and ether, which is
the rlavourer, while our Pear takes a much longer time. It is no
argument against this view that fruit is often better flavoured when
gathered fresh from the tree or plant. If this be so, it is because the
fruit has already hung on the tree or plant so long that the desired
chemical changes have already taken place before its separation.

It is hardly necessary to add that Apples and Pears, when stored
away, should rest on the stalk with their eyes visible, and not on
the apex, as sometimes practised, with the stalk uppermost and the
eyes downwards — a most uncomfortable position for any fruit.

Laboke Vinces.

GARDENS ENCLOSED WITH GLASS.

If the experience of the past season will only awaken gardeners and
their employers to the gravity of future prospects of what are commonly
called hardy-fruit crops, and cause them to inquire into the reason of
the present dearth of fruit for ordinary supply, the empty fruit-rooms
of this season, and the insipid and wretched appearance of what little
they contain, will not have occurred in vain.

Clearly it is the duty of every gardener who is intrusted with the
charge and management of any garden establishment of importance
where the outlay is heavy, to bring all the experience of practical
observation to bear upon the subject. The agricultural depression
is being inquired into by practical agriculturists, assisted by gentlemen
of great commercial knowledge and experience, and all the details of
cropping, as well as the whole machinery of the system, are to be thor-
oughly sifted.

Is the practical gardener less intelligent than the majority of farmers 1
and are gardeners less capable of propounding schemes for the better
management of gardens under the altered climatal conditions of Great
Britain 1 I might almost say of Continental Europe, with little excep-
tion, during the present year.

I wish I could define the position as clearly in words as I fancy I
understand it in thought ; the matter would be easily accomplished.

At present most kitchen-gardens are enclosed by four brick walls,
the cost of which was no inconsiderable item of expenditure. The
south wall is generally occupied with forcing-houses, which answer the
purposes for which they are intended admirably, and from a commer-
cial point of view, when successfully managed, leave a very handsome
profit on the right side of the balance-sheet.

51 I THE GARDENER. [Nov.

The kitchen-garden, if economically managed and cropped, will also
yield a good return for the labour expended upon it, besides having a
constant supply of crisp, fresh vegetables, which cannot be purchased
in good condition at some seasons of the year at any price.

The keep of pleasure and ornamental grounds are frequently, and, as
I think, very unfairly, included as bad debts against the paying depart-
ments of the garden, but I have nothing whatever to do with them
here.

We have now three walls left — the east, which is usually occupied
with Apricots and Pears; the west with Plums, with perhaps a stray
Peach or Nectarine at the most favourable angle connecting the two
walls ; and the north is usually employed for growing Morello Cherries
and Kitchen Plums.

The north wall on the south side, where the situation renders it prac-
ticable, is generally furnished with Peach and Apricot trees. Now for
results. Most of the Apricot and Peach trees on south walls are dead
this year, and will have to be replaced. There were a few Plums on
west walls ; but on north situations they cracked on approaching the
ripening stage, through constant saturation, and were for the most part
rendered unfit for use ; and Morello Cherries, which were laden with
blossom, dropped nearly all their fruit about or previous to the stoning
period. This is no coloured or exaggerated statement, but a simple
revelation of painful facts. In the formation of new gardens the
altered conditions of climate would suggest to any ordinary observant
eye that bare brick walls are a misnomer of the past ; and whether gar-
dens of the future are to be large or small, I think there will not be
much difficulty in propounding a more profitable mode of enclosure
than the piling together of a lot of bricks.

The cheapness of glass, and now the lowering of artisans' wages,
together with the skill of the modern horticultural builder, with the
practical gardener "guiding the helm/' would, I think, enable us, if
we only put our heads together, to devise a plan which would supplant
the present unprofitable one of enclosing gardens.

All previous experience points to glass-houses as being the best sub-
stitutes for brick walls. The houses should be light and roomy, and
have a flow and return hot-water pipe along the front, for the purpose
of equalising the discrepancy between the day and night temperatures
in the spring.

Unheated houses are certainly better than bare walls, but the addi-
tion of a little piping would be more than compensated for in value in
a good succession of regular crops. Span-houses would give a double
crop, and are very accommodating for giving air in boisterous weather:
raised restricted borders would be the idea, as giving a minimum of
labour and quick returns. When piercing winds are prevalent in the
spring, the situation might be modified by the skill of the architect, so
that heat enclosed in the afternoons of sunny days, or artificial heat

1879.] THE CARNATION. 515

otherwise supplied, would not be absorbed by radiation. The better
class of fruits— such as Peaches, Plums, Cherries, and Apricots— might
be more condensed in area; and Pears, which seem to do better than
anything else, might still occupy the bare walls.

In addition to the regular crops of fruit, there would be early crops
of Potatoes, French Beans, and Peas ad libitum — delicacies which green-
grocers know how to charge for early in the London season. So much
for new gardens, some one may say, but what about the old 1 My
answer is, that one-half the expense is already laid out where there are
existing walls already furnished with fruiting trees. Cover the walls
or some portion of them with glass, and have regular crops of fruit and
crops of early vegetables, which, I dare venture to assert, are a costly
commodity to London families during the months of April and May.

I know a range of fruit-houses in the neighbourhood of Liverpool
101 yards long, where the back wall is covered with stone fruit-trees
which produce never-failing crops, and the borders supply early crops
of Peas, Potatoes, Beans, Cauliflowers, salading, &c, which are invalu-
able, and which at that time of year could hardly be purchased for
love or money. The protection of fruit-trees in flower by means of
Fern litter, spruce branches, tiffany, and all the other remedies, which
are as numerous as patent medicines, are proved to be a perfect
sinecure, and nothing short of some really effective remedy should
be discussed by practical horticulturists in future. Let the financial
bearings of both sides of the question be fairly compared, and I feel
confident that only one result will follow. W- Hinds.

Canford Gaedexs, Dorset.

THE CARNATION.

There is an apparent revival in the love for this old-fashioned florist-
flower ; and as the requirements of the plant are by many who wish to
cultivate it only very imperfectly understood, a note on its cultivation
may be acceptable to many. Some of the free-growing sorts are com-
paratively common — as the varieties which are clove-scented, and some
of the Picotees ; but the kind of treatment which will suit these is
simply enough to kill the finer and more tender kinds. It is there-
fore necessary to grow these in pots. The present is the only season
that we have had anything like success with Carnations and Picotees
planted out of doors. But even with the amount of success attained,
we will plant none but the strongest-growing kinds out in future.
Most florists do not consider Picotees and Carnations as admissible
in the same stands, and I was somewhat surprised to find the two
staged together at the exhibition of one of the very oldest societies.
And no doubt they were in a degree right, as Picotees are as much
Carnations as are Bizarres or Flakes. In addition to these old-estab-

516 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

lished sections, within Lite years there have been some self-coloured
flowers introduced which to many growers will prove very valuable, as
they are extremely hardy, vigorous in growth, and free in flowering.
In fact, unless special care can be taken of them, cultivators would
have more satisfaction in growing these with a selection of Picotees,
and a few of the very strongest-growing of the Bizarres and Flakes,
than in growing too large a collection of the finer kinds. When
planted out of doors, the ground should be turned over to the depth
of at least two feet the autumn previous to planting, and again in
spring dug over to a good depth, in order to have the ground in a free
and open condition. This is a point of considerable importance, as
unless the soil is in a condition to insure quick rooting and a free
and strong growth before the sun gains much in power, the plants are
very liable to die off. The end of March or beginning of April is
time enough to plant out. The most suitable sorts for planting out are
Rev. J. Dix, Excelsior, Princess of Wales, and Brilliant — Selfs ; Lord
Valentia, Regularity, Countess of Wilton, William Summers, Lady
Elcho, Mary, Picco, Beauty of Plumstead, and Bertha — Picotees ;
Garibaldi, Mars, Queen Victoria, Warrior, and Purity — Bizarres ; Ajax,
Squire Meynell, and Sportsman. These are a few kinds which have
been found to succeed with above treatment.

When cultivated in pots it is a very necessary point to have the plants
strong before placing them in their blooming-pots : no after-culture will
make up for a lack of strength at this stage. It is consequently of import-
ance to have the layers rooted early, and potted into small pots as early
in October as possible, to secure this. Or if plants are to be purchased,
no time should be lost in doing so. In cases where the plants are
weakly, and make no progress in cold frames, they should be removed
to a structure where they can be kept just moving, at the same time
that plenty of air can be introduced in fine weather to keep the foliage
strong. The kind of soil that they appear to delight in is a light loam,
with the addition of a little rotted manure, such as spent mushroom-
dung. It is not well to pot too early, in case of check afterwards ; but
the beginning of April is quite as late as this should be delayed. A
9-inch pot will grow two plants. The drainage should be made thor-
oughly good, the soil firmed as much as possible, and means taken that
the soil does not get saturated with rain before the roots have got a
good hold of the sides of the pots. If a covering of sashes can be secured
in case of necessity during the first six weeks after potting, there will
be no fear of the plants afterwards. The routine work of the summer
months consists in watering regularly, keeping the growing flower-stems
tied to their stakes as they advance in growth. If intended for exhibi-
tion, the buds must be kept thinned — from one to three on a stem being
a sufficient number to leave. The sashes may be again called into use
when buds commence to open. Covered with these there will be no
danger of the flowers being damaged with rain. A watchful eye must

1879.] EARLY-FORCED TREES. 517

be kept on the buds as they attain to a full size, employing strips of
matting or of small india-rubber rings to keep the calyx from being
burst. The calyx will also require to be slit at the divisions in order
to allow the flowers to develop symmetrically. Cards may also be em-
ployed to further insure the same result ; but to many, such a mode of
helping a flower will appear too artificial.

The shoots should be layered directly they are far enough advanced to
be operated on. Many cut off the ends of the grassy foliage when layer-
ing ; but this is not necessary. What is more a necessity is to cut the
shoot in a manner that the thinnest portion will be that which connects
the layer with the parent pant. Do not allow too many shoots to re-
main for layering, as it will give more satisfaction to have one really
strong healthy layer than can be had from four times the number of
weakly ones. When potting up the rooted plants use a good open
loam merely, and stand the plants out of doors until root-action has
again commenced. This is much better than shutting up in frames in
order to induce the roots to form quickly. I would reiterate the neces-
sity of keeping weakly plants growing throughout the winter, always
avoiding the least approach to a stagnant atmosphere under such treat-
ment. As all the kinds usually sold by nurserymen are worthy of culti-
vation, it is unnecessary to add a list of names.

To those who want a supply of flowers in autumn for filling glasses,
&c, nothing can be more satisfactory than these plants — the Self varie-
ties and Picotees being more particularly adapted for this purpose than
the other classes, the treatment required being something as near that
recommended for those planted out as can be provided. Duke of Wel-
lington should be added to the list for this purpose. We have it in
quantities now — the middle of October.

R. P. Brotherston.

A FEW WEEKS' GRACE FOR EARLY-FORCED TREES.

If it be correct, as stated, that the past season has been the most un-
favourable on record for the ripening and development of all kinds of
fruit-trees, the suggestion seems to offer itself whether it would not be
discreet policy to defer forcing Vines and Peach-trees for a month or
six weeks later during the coming year.

It is not at all improbable that some one may write and tell us that
their Vines and Peach-trees are in grand condition — that they never
looked better, — and that, in fact, everything looks flourishing for an-
other year.

I hope there are many cases of this kind. I know, indeed, there are
many excellent cultivators, with modern facilities for forcing, such as
well-appointed houses, who have been able to discern, during the early
part of what we may now almost call the past year, that especial care

518 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

would be necessary in order to bring about a thorough state of ripen-
ing in Vines, Peaches, and other fruit-trees. But it is to be hoped that
those who are BO favourably circumstanced will not forget the scores of
places where fruit has to be grown in low, old-fashioned houses, with
every square of glass no larger than a biscuit, and wooden rafters thick
enough to make sleepers for a line of railway.

These conditions, together with perhaps insufficient means of ventila-
tion, have been great drawbacks duriug the past summer; and say
what people may, they are sure to have left their mark behind them —
more especially where thick planting is adopted, and in gardens where
an adequate staff is not allowed and work has fallen into arrears, and
in the struggle to make the best of a season beset with great difficulties,
the work of pinching and thinning to the necessary degree has been
unavoidably neglected.

The wood in our earliest Peach-house is greener now, at the begin-
ning of October, in Dorsetshire, than I have ever seen it in Lancashire
at the same period, with the balance of favour, as regards structure, being
in every respect on the side of the former.

Pot- Vines and Peach-trees in pots are so wonderfully cheap nowadays
as to render the suggestion I have thrown out practicable in every
garden of ordinary pretensions.

A dozen Pot- Vines, and a like number of Peach-trees in pots, of the
early kinds — the latter of which might be brought forward in any
house with a night temperature of 45°, and be pushed along afterwards
when the fruit is set — would yield a few dishes of fruit at the com-
mencement of the season, and spare the early-forcing until the first
day of the new year dawns upon us, and which, I hope, will bring
the advent of a more happy augury for fruit prospects in succeeding
years.

It is for pot work that such varieties as Early Beatrice are worth
growing, as in a pot it is always a portable subject, and can be made
amenable to any condition that occasion may requre. Amongst Nec-
tarines Lord Napier is a grand pot variety : it grows to a large size,
and forces well.

A better quality of Grapes might also be procured from the pot-
Vines by dividing them into two batches ; and by cropping the last
half rather lightly, and starting them a little later, finer berries and
better finish would be obtained.

Where it is proposed to grant this short period of grace or recupera-
tion to hard-forced subjects, the situation should be taken advantage
of to renew the borders partially ; and, where it is necessary, if pos
sible, also to renew very old trees that are showing signs of decay, with
younger ones of appropriate kinds, or good bearing trees — where they
can be spared — by economical thinning out on the outside walls. This
work should be undertaken at once, — first, by rooting out all worthless
trees, and thoroughly cleansing everything inside the house — the trees

i879-] NOTES ON COLEUS. 519

themselves included— and removing all the surface-soil off the borders
from 6 to 9 inches deep carefully with forks, preserving all the feeders
by tying them in bunches, and suspending them with a "soft" piece
of matting to the bole of the tree. Of course, if there is any suspicion
of the drainage of the borders being wrong, the better way would be
to lift the trees altogether, rectify the drainage, make new borders, and
replant ; but in the majority of cases, a good addition of fresh soil, with
an admixture of crushed bones and lime rubble, will answer the
purpose.

In laying in the roots, they should be set thinly between the layers
of fresh soil ; and " knotty "-looking roots which produce suckers in
great quantity will be better removed altogether. After the borders
are made up to the required height, and made firm, according to the
condition of the soil, they should be mulched over with short, rotten
manure ; and if forcing be conducted slowly, until the roots lay hold
of the fresh food supplied to them, the trees will take out a fresh lease
of life, and increase their fruit-producing power threefold. The same
remarks will apply equally to early-forced Vines, except that in the
event of their being far wrong at the root, and new borders have to be
made, it is preferable to start with young Vines afresh, as I think it is
more cheerful to contemplate a prosperous future than to live upon the
thoughts of past achievements. W. Hinds.

NOTES OH COLEUS.

The cultivation of Coleus is comparatively easy, and so well under-
stood by the majority of gardeners, that cultural details are almost
unnecessary. Notwithstanding the ease with which they are propa-
gated and grown, which in a great measure accounts for their being
looked upon as common, what class of plants gives us so many beauti-
ful and striking features in their foliage 1 During summer we could
scarcely call a greenhouse or conservatory thoroughly furnished with-
out these singularly effective plants, they contrast so well with
flowering plants of every shade and hue. Their usefulness in this
respect is well known ; and in winter they are equally attractive in the
stove. The modern style of flower-gardening could not dispense with
them very well, at least with C. Verschaffeltii, with its rich crimson
leaves and its improved variety, which is even of greater brilliancy.
For the decoration of rooms during summer they are invaluable, and
stand well where gas is not used, — in fact, they can be used in warm
rooms throughout the greater part of the year. They scarcely repay
one for the labour and the space devoted to growing them in large
pots for winter decoration, except for the production of their bright

520 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

leaves for the ornamentation of the dinner-table. They are, however,
most useful in winter, when a number are rooted singly in small
thumb-pots, or when three or four are propagate* 1 together in a 3-ineh
pot, to be turned out of those pots and united with small ferns where
plants have to be massed together in baskets or very large vases.

Many new and improved varieties have recently been introduced
to our notice. Some of them are grotesque looking and very beauti-
ful, presenting nearly every shade of colour in their leaves, arranged
in the most fantastic forms. The leaves of the Shah, Lady Burrell,
and Pine -Apple Beauty are very much alike, one-half being yellow
and the other of dark colours. In our estimation it matters but little
which of the three varieties is grown, as the difference is imperceptible
except in the lower part of the leaf, which in Lady Burrell is dark
maroon, while in the Pine-Apple Beauty it is more of a scarlet shade.
Golden Gem is much after the style and appearance of Princess
Royal and Queen Victoria, but is much more fringed at the edge of
the leaf, and much richer in colour than either of the other two
varieties. Beauty of Widmore, Eldorado, and M. J. Linden should
be grown in every collection. Of the four, Exquisite, George Bun-
yard, Royalty, and Gurnet, the two former are considerably the best
and most worthy of cultivation, while the latter two are distinct, and
an improvement on the older kinds. Fascination is really a first-class
variety, and commends itself to all growers of this ornamental class
of plants. This is not by any means a plant of vigorous growth and
hardy constitution, yet is very distinct from all others. It is a valu-
able plant in small pots, and makes a handsome pyramidal specimen
on account of its free-branching habit ; and in our estimation it is a
great acquisition. Kentish Fire and Lord Falmouth are much the
same ; and where one is grown the other can well be dispensed with.
The ground colour of the latter is creamy-yellow, suffused with pink ;
while that of the former variety is nearly black, the centre being deep
crimson, and is most worthy the notice of all growers. Novelty,
which is somewhat after the style of Fascination, is a most lovely
Coleus, quite distinct, and of a most delicate nature, both as regards
its appearance generally and its growth. It resembles Fascination
only in the formation and construction of its foliage, while it differs
widely from that species in colour, presenting a vast variety of tints
of the most delicate shade and brilliancy.

We have the latest introductions from the South Pacific Islands
before us, and consider Distinction and Surprise by far the best.
They are both distinct, and will undoubtedly be generally grown
when they become better known. Distinction is novel and effective,
with its deeply crenated leaves, of a bronze-green colour, and beauti-

1879.] MYOSOTIS DISSITIFLORA. 521

fully shaded with violet-crimson, the veins and mid-ribs being rosy-
pink. Surprise possesses all the characteristics of Distinction, with
which variety we have ventured to couple it, and is indeed a gem,
differing from that variety mainly in the colour of its foliage, which
is green, striped with yellow, the latter shade changing almost to
white as it arrives at a state of maturity. Aurora, Glow, Magic, and
Sparkler, as they vary but little in habit, vigour of growth, and the
general formation of their foliage, may be suitably described together.
Aurora possesses colours singularly bright and telling ; the leaves
are of a yellowish hue, with a blotch of rose colour down the centre.
Glow is also bright, and marked much after the manner of Aurora,
with this difference, that the foliage is dark, with rosy carmine of
slight magenta shade down the centre, and a narrow margin of green.
Magic is marked in a similar way, the colour of the centre being pale
yellow, and a little more feathered than the other varieties ; the
remainder of the leaf is green. Sparkler is also marked down the
centre with a reddish-maroon tint, having a deep crenate fringe round
the margin of the leaf.

Harlequin will undoubtedly prove a very useful kind. It is very
distinct, being variegated, like marble, with purple, bronze, and choco-
late, which are laid on in the most peculiar form, thus rendering the
plant striking and attractive. It is a vigorous grower. Sunbeam is a
dwarf grower, and in colour distinct from any of the new varieties.
The leaves are of a reddish tint, shaded with rose, and the colours
vivid and bright. Of the variety Firefly we are not in a position
to speak with accuracy, as our plants are not yet by any means
attractive.

"Wm. Bardney.

MYOSOTIS DISSITIFLOHA FOR WINTER FLOWERING.

This is very much appreciated here during the dark dull days of
winter, and as it can be had by any one possessing an ordinary green-
house, it is a pity it is not oftener seen than it is. To get up a stock
of plants for this purpose, it is only necessary to pull the requisite
number of pieces off old plants, and insert them in ordinary soil
on a shady border about the beginning of August. Seeds sown
about the end of June will furnish plants equally suitable. Cuttings
strike root without any particular care, and if put in at the time and
in the manner indicated, will become plants ready for potting off about
the beginning of October. We use 4|- and 5-inch pots, and in potting,
take any potting-soil handy. Lifted with good balls, they never know
they are moved. After they have stood in the shade for a day or two,

2 N

522 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

we place them in an ordinary frame on a dry site, and here they are
treated to all the air going in all weather, the lights only being used
for the purpose of keeping oil* heavy rains. As they are rapid rooters
the pots soon fill with roots, and care is taken to prevent them flagging
for want of water ; otherwise they are kept as dry as possible, and this
tends to make them free-flowering. In ordinary mild winters they will
bloom in the frames, and in any case are sure to do so very early in
spring. To have Forget-me-nots all winter is, however, the easiest
task imaginable, and all that is wanted in the way of forcing is to
bring in a few pots at a time into any house kept at greenhouse tem-
perature, when they will throw up their trusses in a week or two, and
continue blooming for a long time.

Few flowers are more appreciated ; and if once it is grown in winter
as described, it will be in demand ever after. For those with little
means of producing flowers in winter this is an invaluable plant.

Gardener.

LOBELIA CARDINALIS.

There are now many varieties of Lobelia all more or less attractive,
some for their neat habit of growth, others for their fine telling colours,
while in many instances there is a pleasing combination of both, which
makes the Lobelia a general favourite. The variety specially under our
notice at present is Lobelia cardinalis, var. Victoria, a tall erect-grow-
ing variety of neat -branching habit, something in the style of a
branched chandelier. It grows from 3 to 4 feet high, with large bright-
scarlet blooms, which are produced in great profusion. The terminal
shoot, blooming first, generally puts out a lateral shoot immediately
under the bloom-spike, which is tied to the stake (of which we only
use one) and is thus ready to bloom along with the branches. When
in full bloom these, with their dark-crimson foliage and scarlet blooms
are very telling subjects in a general collection of plants, judiciously
arranged. They like a rich compost and occasional feeding with liquid
manure. Their propagation is easily effected by off-sets, which they
throw up in quantities, often carpeting the surface of the pot, and also
by cuttings, which strike freely in a compost of equal parts, sand and
leaf-mould, placed in heat and kept regularly moist. We have tried
them in the flower-garden, and for centre-pieces, cross-bars, and such
like, and think they will soon out-rival the almost indispensable Irisine
Lindenii and DelFs Beet — the former of which has been very patchy
this season, and the latter, as far as we have seen, very coarse and
badly coloured. J. Proctor.

The Priory Gardens, St Andrews, Fife.

1879.] THE STRAWBERRY CROP OF 1879. 523

DELL'S HYBRID MELON.

Fkom what we learned of this Melon before it was sent out, a very-
high opinion was formed of it. We have this year grown a span-roofed
Melon-house, 80 feet long, full of it, excepting a few lights devoted to
Cucumbers, and in every way our expectations of it have been fully real-
ised. For the last eleven years the same house has been devoted to vari-
ous Melons of excellent reputations. But notwithstanding the most
unfavourable season, perhaps, ever experienced by any gardener now in
practice, we have never taken so many really good Melons out of the
house. It is evidently a variety with a robust and fruitful constitu-
tion, for it set freely in spite of constant rain and almost entire absence
of sunshine. Judging from its flavour, under most unfavourable con-
ditions for developing that important quality in Melons, it must in
ordinary seasons be of exquisite flavour. This is, indeed — to say
nothing more — highly probable from the fact that, among numerous
Melons that were submitted to the London R. H. S. Fruit-committee,
Dell's Hybrid was the only one to which a first-class certificate was
awarded the year before it was sent out. At all events, we do not
intend to grow any other Melon than this green-fleshed one.

NOTES ON THE STRAWBERRY CROP OF 1879.

The Strawberry is such a universal favourite among all classes of the
community, that anything bearing upon its culture will always receive
a certain amount of attention. The present season has proved itself
one of the most disastrous on record for almost every kind of crop, and
has been particularly so in the case of the Strawberry crop. The plants
flowered most profusely, and the early prospects of a good return never
were better. But alas ! from the time they began to bloom, the rain
came down with unpitying severity, and continued daily, almost with-
out intermission, so that only a small proportion of the earlier kinds
set their fruit, and even many of those that did swell rotted off in a
green state, through being continuously soaked with rain. Altogether
there was not half a crop, and in many places not even that. One
market grower of our acquaintance informs us that he estimates his
loss on this crop alone at £200. Some of the latest kinds gave pretty
fair returns, notably so with us in the case of Dr Livingstone and Elton
Pine. A few notes on the kinds grown here may be of some little in-
terest to a portion of your readers. The soil here is moderately heavy,
and our elevation is about 300 feet above sea-level.

The old standard variety, Keen's Seedling, in ordinary seasons suc-
ceeds well here, crops largely, and swells to a good size ; this season,
being among the earlier flowering kinds, it produced little or nothing,
and that of small size. President does not do well on some soils, and

524 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

here it does not crop well, if the ground be very rich, so that we gener-
ally plant on poorer soil and get good crops ; this season it did pretty
well, as compared to many other kinds, and the fruit swelled to a fair
size. Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury (Garibaldi) is a fair cropper here,
though the fruit does not swell to such a size as we have seen it else-
where ; we always grow a lot of it to obtain runners for forcing ; this
season it was much below the average, even as compared with the other
kinds. Belle de Paris : this is an abundant cropper here ; I have never
seen it grown anywhere else, at least under this name ; the fruit is
not large, is of conical shape, and dark in colour ; it is evidently closely
allied to, if not identical with, Black Prince; it is a good variety for
the preserving-pan, for which purpose we mean to grow a quantity.
James Yeitch gets a great name, and may be worthy of it, but I cannot
speak favourably, from my experience of it, as it refuses to grow here
at all ; I have tried it for two years, and it has died almost outright.
Aromatic is a very nice fruit, of good flavour, but like the last, does
not thrive here, and I have never seen it elsewhere. Dr Hogg : this
variety has produced some nice fruit, but I cannot regard it as a good
cropper here ; this season it has done nothing. Rifleman : this is
generally an excellent cropper, but has the fault of not colouring well
to the tips of the fruit, which deteriorates from its qualities as a table
fruit ; it has done fairly well this season. Duke of Edinburgh : this
variety is bound to take a leading position among Strawberries ; its
large handsome fruit and good constitution will commend it to most
growers; the flavour is not all that could be desired; but it is a
heavy cropper, and has done fairly well this season. Dr Livingstone :
I cannot speak too highly of this variety ; the fruit is almost as large
as "The Duke," but of better flavour, while it has proved the best
cropper I have had for the last two years. British Queen is still one of
the best-flavoured Strawberries, but it does not thrive very well here,
so we do not grow much of it. Elton Pine is indispensable as a late
variety ; it is an enormous cropper here, and has been one of the best
this season. Sir Joseph Paxton and Sir Charles Napier we have just
introduced this season, so I cannot speak decidedly about them ; they
promise well however. We still grow a quantity of Grove End Scarlet
for preserving ; this season it has grown too much to leaves. Straw-
berries are so much like Potatoes in this respect, that it is an advan-
tage to have a change of plants occasionally ; and most growers err in
planting too closely. Strawberries like plenty of room in which to
develop themselves. They should never be planted closer than 30
or 33 inches between rows, and 21 inches between plants : this admits
of getting them cleaned better, and allows of the air getting more
freely about them, as also of getting them bedded when the fruit is on
them ; and a much larger crop will result from this than by the old
method of close planting, as well as getting the fruit of superior
quality. J.G. W.

i879-] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 525

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

Notwithstanding the editorial note at the end of the papers on the
above subject in the September issue of ' The Gardener,' I ask room for
the following remarks. I would not have made this request if Mr
Makenzie in his last paper had not attributed to me assertions which
I have not asserted, and assumptions which I have not assumed, at any
time during the controversy.

I have not at any point in the discussion " asserted that a vertical
rise is a hindrance to the circulation, and is the cause of repeated
failures in the working of hot-water apparatus." On the contrary, I
assert that the highest point of the apparatus should be reached by a
vertical pipe out of the top of the boiler ; and that when the heated
volumes of water have to reach the highest point by travelling up a
slow gradient of hundreds of feet in length, the result is a return cur-
rent in the flows, which is a hindrance to circulation, and the cause of
an immense amount of heat being wasted in the stoke-hole.

Mr Makenzie admits " that there is no necessity for the pipes having
a continuous ascent." Then why is it that in 999 cases out of 1000
they are fixed in this way 1 And why does Mr Makenzie advise us to
have our stoke-holes as deep as practicable 1 There being no necessity
for a continuous ascent of the piping, there is no necessity for a deep
stoke-hole.

I have not, at any time during the discussion, asked Mr Makenzie
" if the upper strata in the flow-pipe travels faster than the lower
strata." This is what I asked — Does the upper and hotter stratum
travel faster than the under and colder stratum on the downhill
journey 1 And if not, why not ] And I again, for the third and last
time, respectfully ask the same question. I have not, at any time
during the discussion, assumed that the mere fact of water becoming
hotter " makes it fly away from the earth." The heated water would
remain in the boiler if colder water did not come in contact with it.
The colder being of greater density than the hotter, moves towards the
lowest place ; and the hotter being of less density than the colder,
moves towards the highest place. The movements of both are move-
ments in obedience to the law of gravitation, in accordance with their
respective specific gravities or densities. This fact I pointed out in
' The Gardener ' of February last ; and what I have been contending
for since is, that the apparatus should be fitted up in such a way
that at all points thereof the volume of water therein will move of its
own accord in the right direction, in obedience to the law of gravita-
tion, and not have to be forced by the succeeding, or drawn by the
preceding, volume in that direction. Mr Makenzie invites us to
" come and see water at 80° forcing water at 60° uphill." Now, sup-
pose we did see water at 80° forcing water at 60° uphill, we would only
have an ocular demonstration that the apparatus in which this took

526 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

place was fitted up on a wrong principle. We would be looking at an
apparatus in which the colder water was floating or forcing the hotter
water up out of the boiler into the flow-pipe j but once the hotter gets
into the flow-pipe, a change takes place, and the hotter forces the colder
uphill. Could any tiling be more condemnatory of the practice of
having the piping fixed with a continuous ascent than that, when so
fixed, the process of circulation takes place as here described 1 If it is
right both in theory and practice that the colder water should force
the hotter up out of the boiler, it is right that the colder should force
the hotter uphill at all points of the apparatus. The law is, that when
two fluids of different densities are in immediate contact with one
another, that of greater density descends and takes the lowest place,
and that of lesser density ascends and takes the highest. And there-
fore, if the hotter water lifts the colder at any point of the apparatus, it
is a proof that the method on which the latter is fitted up tends more
to hinder than to facilitate the process of circulation.

Mr Makenzie tells us that " atmospheric air is lighter than water
bulk for bulk." This fact I think is pretty generally understood by
most people. But atmospheric air cannot force water hulk for bulk
uphill. It takes a column of atmospheric air somewhere about forty-
five miles high to balance a column of water somewhere about thirty-
five feet high. And a column of atmospheric air of the above height
could not force the water uphill one inch unless the pressure of the
atmosphere was removed by a mechanical or other contrivance from
the upper end of the tube in which the water is wanted to rise.

The " suction-pump " theory of circulation will not work alike at all
points of the apparatus, nor will the", " strata" theory. We therefore
conclude that neither is the right theory. The latter works alike at
all points, and " does not take up a fragment of the subject and for-
get all the rest."

I agree with Mr Henry J. Pearson that " glass houses are, or should
be, arranged so that plants may be grown successfully, with the greatest
economy of labour possible, not to put hot-water apparatus in ; and
a system which will not admit of doors and paths being placed where
required is at once condemned, even if the water does circulate the best
in that form." But if Mr Pearson thinks that the method of erecting
the hot-water apparatus recommended by me would be prejudicial to
the growth of plants, or interfere with the economical working of the
houses to which it was applied, he is mistaken in his conclusions. The
same facilities for having "doors and paths where required" are offered
by the method I advocate as are offered by the method in general prac-
tice. And by adopting the former we get over the necessity for those "un-
mitigated nuisances," as Mr Makenzie truly terms them — deep stoke-
holes, and for dipping and rising again of the pipes. When " dips "
occur, they render the circulation uncertain and extremely difficult.
The annexed figure will show how to heat a lean-to range of any

i879.]

HEATING BY HOT WATER.

527

number of compartments without sinking the boiler more than 1 foot
below the floor on which the main body of the piping is laid.

a, Boiler ; B, Main flow-pipe, rising above the door-tops against the
back wall, enclosed in a wooden case filled with sawdust ; C, Branch
pipe, carried over door-top from main flow and attached in the usual
way to the pipes D for heating the compartment ; E, Main re-
turn-pipe, running the full length of the range a few inches below
the floor -level. The dotted line is the supposed ground -level.
The branch pipes over doorways to be covered with ornamental
grating, or otherwise ornamented to correspond with the woodwork
of the houses.

In this form of the hot- water apparatus Mr Pearson thinks air would
be troublesome. Well, I do not underrate the resistance offered by
air to the circulation of the water through the pipes ; but in this form

the heated air will get to the highest point by a shorter route than it
does in the form in general practice. In the latter form the air finds
its way to the highest points, and provision is there made for its escape.

In the form represented by the accompanying figure the air will also
find its way to the highest points, and the usual means for its exit
from the pipes will be provided. And if Mr Pearson has nothing of a
more solid nature than air bubbles to offer in opposition to this form, I
have no doubt of being able to prevent any obstruction that they,
through their aerial nature, may be disposed to offer to the free circula-
tion of the water through the apparatus.

Mr Pearson next says : " If the houses were built for the pipes, and
not the pipes for the houses, he would let the water rise the whole way
until it is about to re-enter the boiler." In reference to this statement,
might I presume to ask Mr Pearson if he is ready to stake his reputa-

528 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

tion as a hot- water engineer that the circulation of the water will be as
rapid in an apparatus having the pipes fixed on a continuous ascent
their whole length, and with a vertical return as the water re-enters
the boiler, as if the heated water ascended by a vertical rise to the
highest point at first, and then descended the whole way until it
re-enters the boiler?— the conditions, with the exception of the mode
of arranging the piping, to be exactly the same in both cases.

I have repeatedly put this matter to the test — with a miniature
apparatus, consisting of a saddle-boiler 9 inches by 3 inches, having
50 feet of half-inch pipe attached thereto — and always with the same
result,— that is, when the heated volumes of water rise vertically to the
highest point, the 50 feet of pipe becomes hot the whole length in less
than half the time it takes to become hot when the heated volumes
have to reach the highest point by a slow gradient and re-enter the
boiler by a vertical descent. Let it be understood that in both cases
the elevation is the same, the source of heat the same, the only differ-
ence being the different way of fixing the pipes.

I would also remark that when the pipe is fixed on the former
method the boiler keeps cool compared with what is the case when
the pipe is fixed on the latter. When fixed on the former, the heat is
carried quickly away from the source, and is distributed where it is of
use. When fixed on the latter, the heated water cannot get away
quickly, and therefore remains and heats the stoke-hole.

Mr Pearson asks if I " intend to state that water in the return-pipe
will fail to fill the vacuum caused in boiler by the rise of the heated
water in the same time, if it have only an inclination of 1 foot in 100,
as if it had 10 feet to fall in the same length ? " And he answered this
question by saying : "If so, all rivers would flow at the same speed."
When Mr Pearson wrote the foregoing question and answer he appears
to have forgotten that the water in the hot-water apparatus has to
ascend as well as descend, and that the ascent is equal to the descent ;
whereas the water of a river flows downhill from the fountainhead
until it finds its level in the sea. There is no analogy between a
running stream and the circulation of the water in the hot-water heat-
ing apparatus.

C. M. having agreed with me that a continuous ascent of the flow-
pipes is not essential to rapid circulation, I have little more to say to
him. I would remark, however, that C. M.'s ideas on the subject of
heating by hot-water are of such a " mixed " nature from beginning to
end that I find it rather difficult to "equalise" them, and it strikes
me he has been attempting to deal with a subject of which he has had
very little practical experience. In one of his papers he " reminded "
me of some things and "informed" me of others, for which I now
thank him. And in return I beg to "remind" and "inform" him
that he has missed (seeing the discussion is closed) a grand chance of

1879] HEATING BY HOT WATER. 529

becoming famous as a hot-water engineer, through his not having the
courage to back his opinions by appending his name and address to his
papers. J. Hammond.

Brayton.

[When we stopped the discussion last month it did not occur to us
that Mr Hammond, as the originator of the discussion, had a right to
the closing article, hence the insertion of this paper. — Ed.]

Although the hot-water question has received notice to quit your columns,
we trust we may be permitted space to correct a typographical error in your
September issue. In stating the number of feet of piping attached to our Twin
Climax boilers, we wrote "about 5800 feet." Your compositor, by reversing
the two first figures, made it read 8500 feet. We repeat, that these boilers
are computed to heat 4000 feet each ; and we believe this statement is based
on calculations of high authorities on the subject of hot-water heating — yet
Mr Makenzie says, that in our case he would "never think of loading them
with above 2500 feet each."

Since your last issue we have been visited by one of your correspondents, a
practical and "qualified" hot-water engineer, who, after a most careful ex-
amination of the whole apparatus, failed to find anything materially wrong
with the arrangement of the pipes with regard to circulation (according to the
principles mentioned and followed by Mr Hammond's opponents), and he
arrived at the conclusion that the boilers were too weak for the work they
have to do. Since then we have thoroughly tested the power of these boilers.
A mild day was chosen — fires put out, pipes allowed to get cold, one boiler
shut off, fire re-lighted under the remaining one, heated water turned on to
house after house, beginning at the lowest level nearest the boiler, until we
had, and still have, 4216 feet of 4" piping heated to hothouse temperature by
one boiler : it is only when we require heat in the houses on the higher levels
that our real troubles begin. Joseph Hamilton & Sons.

Wellington Place, Carlisle.

I did not intend to have anything more to say on this matter, for reasons
which I previously stated ; but my apology for having to do so is, that 1 find
Mr Makenzie in his last has shown a remarkable disregard for facts, and has,
whether intentionally or not, misrepresented and placed me in quite a false
position before your readers. This is in reference to what he alleges I stated
as to " pressure or gravitation " having nothing to do with the circulation of
the water in the pipes. How Mr Makenzie could draw such an inference from
the sentence referred to is certainly beyond my comprehension. If Mr Makenzie
will take the trouble to refer to p. 327 (July), he will there see that I do think
pressure has to do with it, but it is only as a secondary agent ; and how it can
be made out to be the "sole and only cause" of circulation, I cannot see.
Withdraw the primary cause, the heat— which, rightly or wrongly, we assume
to be the motive power — and how long would circulation go on ? Only until
the pipes got filled and the water found its level. I think Mr Makenzie

530 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

should be careful as well as clear in his writings, as in another sentence he
says Mr Hammond and some others asserted that a continuous or vertical rise
is a hindrance to circulation. What is to be inferred from this ? So far as I
understand, the whole discussion arose from the statement that the continuous
rise was a hindrance, not the vertical; and that the latter, rising at once to the
highest point from the boiler, was the better system (see p. 421). And this is
the reason why I drew a distinction between this and a body of water of a
uniform temperature throughout — as in this case I assume we have a different
motive power to that we have in a body of, say, cold water, raised by pressure
or gravitation, of which I have had ample experience in works it was my duty
to see carried out. Robert Stevens.

[These papers are positively the last we can insert on the heating question
for the present. — Ed.]

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

At the monthly meeting held in the Hall, St Andrew Square, Edinburgh, on
Tuesday the 7th October, Mr Dunn, president, in the chair, there was a numer-
ous attendance of members and others interested in horticulture. A paper was
read from Mr Johannes le Clerc, nurseryman, Haarlem, on "The Culture of
Bulbs in Holland, " in which he gave an interesting account of the mode in
which Hyacinths, Tulips, &c, were reared and managed by the Dutch growers.
Mr W. Ivison Macadam, lecturer on chemistry, next gave a lecture on "The
Food of Plants." After pointing out the importance of gardeners acquiring a
knowledge of the chemical composition of soils, along with the ash of the plants
grown thereon, and showing, by the aid of a number of diagrams, the con-
stituents of the various manures now in use, and their value as fertilisers of the
soil, the lecturer compared the cost of the natural and artificial manures,
placing their several agricultural values alongside each other, and showed that
farmyard manure was the most expensive, and, in the majority of cases, quite
inadequate to meet the wants of ordinary crops, strongly recommending the
adoption of the "Association Standards," which were periodically fixed by a
committee, and which could be thoroughly relied upon. It was resolved that
this lecture, which Mr Macadam kindly placed at the disposal of the Associa-
tion, should be printed for distribution among the members.

A communication was read from Mr G. Robertson, Mordington Gardens,
descriptive of a number of cut blooms of herbaceous plants, which were on the
table for exhibition.

Mr P. Fairgrieve, The Gardens, Dunkeld House, was awarded the Society's
Cultural Certificate for a fine collection of stone fruits, consisting of five dishes
of Peaches, fifteen of Plums, three of Nectarines, five of Apricots, and one of
Cherries, all distinct varieties, and gathered from the open air. Mr A. Fowler,
Castle Kennedy, sent a plant of a new Ageratum of a similar habit and quite
as floriferous as the well-known dwarf variety, Countess of Rothes, but with
rosy-tinted flowers. A seedling Godetia, with darker flowers than Whitneyii
— raised by Mr J. Webster, Gordon Castle — was much admired. It has a
dwarf, dense habit of growth, a brilliant colour, and seems to be a remarkably
free fiowerer. A seedling of Lobelia speciosa, Avith snow-white flowers, was ex-
hibited by Mr Robertson, Sea-Cot House, Leith. This plant, though by far
the best white we have yet seen, had a somewhat rambling habit of growth,

i879-] DRUMLANRIG GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. 531

doubtless caused by its being grown under glass : it will probably be all that
could be desired in the open air as a bedding-plant.

Among the other exhibits were collections of cut blooms of herbaceous plants
from Messrs Dickson & Co., including several species of Yucca, Colchicum
autumnale, purple and white, Statice Fortunei, a showy and distinct-looking
plant with loose panicles of yellow flowers, Lobelia syphilitica, a pretty North-
American blue -flowered species, Anemone japonica with large red flowers
and its variety alba with flowers pure white, several of the autumn Asters,
Tritomas, &c, &c. Mr Robertson Munro had a large array of a similar char-
acter, in which were the single-flowered Dahlias glabrata and crocata, Stenactis
speciosa, with showy purple flowers, Rudbeckias of various sorts, Mimulus ear-
dinalis, &c, &c. Blooms of a red Pompon Dahlia grown at Piershill were also
shown by Mr Munro, who stated that the plant from which they were gathered
had been growing in the open border for twelve years without being once
lifted, that several varieties had been planted at the same time, but that all
the light-coloured and large-flowered sorts had died out, leaving only the plant
which had borne these flowers.

The Chairman alluded in feeling terms to the death of Mr John Caie, gar-
dener, Inverary Castle, one of the most enthusiastic members of the Association.

The usual votes of thanks terminated the proceedings.

-*^^^ —

THE TELEPHONE IN HORTICULTURE.

Messes Dicksons & Co. , Nurserymen and Seedsmen, Edinburgh, have estab-
lished telephonic communication between their seed warehouse in Waterloo
Place and their Pilrig Park Nursery, Pilrig Street — a distance of fully a mile.
The instrument they have adopted is Crossley's Patent Transmitter, which is
one of the best for using in towns, where the noise from the street traffic
renders the ordinary telephone of little practical value. It must prove highly
advantageous to Messrs Dicksons & Co., bringing as it does the two branches
of their business into instant communication. So far as we know, this old
established firm is the first in the trade that has taken advantage of this recent
invention.

DRUMLANRIG GARDENERS' MUTUAL IMPROVEMENT
ASSOCIATION.

The last session of this Association was one of the most successful in its his-
tory. The attendance was so good, and the discussions so enthusiastically
entered into, that the fear of our ever falling into a " mere mechanical routine,"
has been scattered to the winds. We are now under full sail in the eighth session,
and if the splendid breeze with which we started will only continue to fill our
canvas, we shall be able to present a very favourable account of our voyage
next year. The following is a list of the subjects on which papers were read :
Hardy-fruit culture; the Sweet Violet; the Grape Vine; Nature; the Cape
Heath ; the Banana ; the Asparagus ; the Chrysanthemum ; the Classical Plant-
ing of Trees ; Stove-Plants ; Benefit Societies ; Water ; the Cypripedium ; In-
equality of Rank and Condition ; Reading ; the Gathering and Storing of Fruit ;
the Creation ; the Fuchsia; Propagation and After-treatment of Bedding-plants ;
Civilisation; Forcing Vegetables ; The Conservatory; Savings Banks; Fore-
men and Workmen ; Value ; the Hardy Heath ; Storing Ice ; Formation of
Vine-borders ; Are the Joys of Labour sweeter than the Gifts of Fortune ? Calen-
dar for May ; the Art of Thinking; Carnivorous Plants ; Soils, their Manage-
ment and Improvement ; Hedges ; Spring Bedding. Secretary.

532 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

NOTICES OF BOOKS.

The Herefordshire Pomona. Edited by Robert Hogg, LL.D., F.L.S.
London: David Bogue, 3 St Martin's Place; Hereford: Jakeman &
C'arner.

The second part of this magnificent work more than maintains its high-class
art in the splendidly executed chromolithographs of Apples and Pears. We
have never met with such faithful representations, on paper, of the fruits with
which this work is illustrated. The blemishes are as faithfully represented
— where they exist — as any other features. Perhaps any one who is not
acquainted with the high colour which the sunny south lays on the cheeks of
the Foxwhelp, Pearmain's, and other Apples — as well as on some Pears, such as
Flemish Beauty — may be inclined to think the colour overdone. Such, how-
ever, is not the case. The letterpress opens with a chapter on "Apple Lore,"
from the pen of Henry S. Bull, M.D. Then follows a high-class engraving of
John, first Lord Viscount Scudamore, with a sketch of his life, from which it
appears he took great interest in all rural affairs, including orchards — also
written by Dr Bull. Then there is an engraving of the present celebrated
Cordon Pear wall at Homelacey, now in the occupation of Sir Henry C. Scuda-
more Stanhope, with the details and results of the system as practised at
Homelacey, which is well worth the attention of all who have walls to plant
with Pear trees. This portion of the work is from the pen of Sir H. C. S. Stan-
hope, who takes great interest in fruit culture. Then the number closes with
coloured figures and other engravings of forty-one different kinds of Apples
and Pears, with their history and description, by Dr Ptobert Hogg. This second
part of the great work is altogether a magnificent and very instructive one.
It ought to be in the hands of every proprietor and cultivator of these fruits.
We would again express the hope that so line a work should not conclude by
giving merely the Pomona of a county. It is most desirable that it should be
national.

Burnham Beeches. By Francis George Heath, author of ' The Fern World,' kc.
Sampson Low & Co., London.

A very interesting description and history of a piece of most beautiful sylvan
scenery in Berkshire, celebrated for its old and most romantic-looking Beeches,
lately acquired by the Corporation of London for the permanent enjoyment of
the public. The suggestion — to acquire and preserve for the above purpose —
was originally suggested by the author, who has in the little volume done his
best, by pleasant writing, graphic descriptions, and engravings, to make the
public acquainted with the enchanting place— Burnham Beeches.

The Greenhouse. By the Editor of ' The Floral World. ' Groombridge & Sons,

London.

The object of this work is to represent, by coloured figures and engravings, the
more popular greenhouse plants ; and by practical treatises on the culture and
management of greenhouse plants, the Camellia, the Azalea, the Fuchsia, &c,
have been treated of. Altogether the work is well executed. It is issued in
monthly parts, and is well suited to amateurs in particular.

i879.J

CALENDAR.

533

<Kalcntrai\

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

The present time is favourable for
noting the kinds of vegetables which
have proved satisfactory during the
past season. They may be committed
to paper systematically, and when the
seed -list is formed, those which are
most worthy may be retained as the
favourites for next season. A scheme
may also be formed so that arrange-
ments may be made for next year's
cropping — trenching and manuring
accordingly. The haphazard method
of manuring and cropping gardens is
very objectionable : by it a less supply
is obtained, labour is increased, and
disorder is a sure accompaniment.

Trenching may now begin, ridging
up the soil to the weather. If the
subsoil is tenaceous clay, it should be
well turned over in the bottom, and
not brought to the surface, except
the latter be rich and light soil ;
the stronger soil would then be an
advantage if brought up in small pro-
portion — and so would sand be to
strong clay. But in well - cropped
gardens there will be little vacant
ground to turn up for some time to
come. A general preparation may
now be made to meet all requirements
during sudden changes of weather, as
it often happens after a wet season
severe frost sets in suddenly. We re-
member what followed the cold and
wet summer of 1860 — a season only
second to 1879 for untoward weather,
— the intensity of the frost became a
household word ; but the great mis-
chief was from unripened growth ;
and the softness and juicy nature of
all vegetable productions succumbed
to the severe and sudden change
which took 'place at the end of the
year. A quantity of Fern -litter, hay-
bands, old mats, wooden shutters,
frames, and every kind of protector,
may be ready for use at the shortest
notice, as frost gives so little warning.
Lettuce and Endive may be lifted into
frames, with good balls of earth at
their roots, placed closely together, the
roots covered nicely with soil, giving
water as planting goes on, and plac-
ing dry soil over the surface. They
will keep in this way for many weeks
and give little trouble. Young planta-

tions or successions in the ground
should be in a dry position, as damp
does more harm than frost. Celery,
after being earthed up, may have a
quantity of litter or Fern placed over
and among them, without breaking
the stems or leaves ; but only while
frost lasts should the covering remain
on, as damp harboured about Celery
rots it very quickly. Artichokes
(Globe) should have litter placed round
the collars and over the roots of the
plants : the Jerusalem kind may have
litter thrown over a portion in the
ground, so that they may be lifted
when wanted during severe weather.
Parsnips may also be covered in this
way ; but a few weeks' supply of both,
lifted and placed in a shed or under
cover elsewhere, and a quantity of
straw thrown over, will keep them in
a come-at-able state till a thaw sets
in. But roots of these, and even Beet
and Carrots, are better flavoured when
dug fresh from the ground. The latter
should be under a covering of litter,
sand, or ashes, as they would not be
benefited by frost.

Asparagus beds should be trimmed
as soon as the stems are ripe. If there
is any fear of the crowns not being
matured, let the stems at first be cut
only half their length. Heavy coat-
ings of manure placed over unripened
crowns are likely to do them more harm
than good; dry litter or sand would
be safer, and before growth commences
it could be removed and a coating of
rich manure forked into the surface of
beds, leaving crowns and roots un-
touched.

Beans and Peas may be sown any
time this month, when preferred to
raising them under glass in pots,
boxes, or otherwise. The ground
should be thoroughly trenched, and
the surface levelled for the seed-rows ;
indeed, the trenches may remain ridged
between the Peas, to act as drainage if
ground is wet and cold. When the
seeds are sprinkled in rows on the
surface of the soil they may have red-
lead sprinkled over them, and where
the land is heavy, a fine coating of dry
soil should be laid over them before the
general covering is made. Beans may

534

THE GARDENER.

[Nov,

be also planted in the usual way on a
dry border : Mazagan is the one gener-
ally sown at this season. These seeds
should be sown more thickly at this
season than during the spring and
summer months, if much rain should
fall, or much surface-water should lie
about after thawing of snow, it is well
to make outlets so that water should
pass away rapidly from crops. Celery
should have special attention as to
this. Broccoli may still be laid down
with the hearts to the north to check
gross growth : better small heads than
risk such destruction as overtook most
of the Broccolis last year. Dust soot
and fine ashes among young Cabbage
crops, to check grubs and slugs ; plenty
of lime may be dusted among them,
— sliced Turnips and Cabbage-leaves
used as traps for slugs. Forcing
of Peas in pots ; Radishes in frames ;
Carrots for drawing young ; and fresh
Potatoes for Christmas, now well for-

ward in pots,— should have careful at-
tention ; plenty of light and air, careful
watering and protection from frost, are
their chief wants. The thermometer
should not fall below 45° for these.
Chicory should be blanched in pits,
boxes with covers, Mushroom -house,
or in any position where light and air
can be kept from the plants. Keep
Cauliflowers and Lettuce plants in
frames and hand-lights growing stead-
ily with abundance of air and light :
keep the surfaces open and clean by
stirring the soil. Asparagus, French
Beans, and Tomatoes do wTell in a
temperature about 55° to 60° in ab-
sence of sun. Rhubarb, Seakale, and
Mushrooms may now be fairly started.
Slow forcing gives the best produce.
Take in successions according to de-
mand. A steady and regular supply
is preferable to a glut followed by a
scarcity.

M. T.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — It frequently occurs that a
few Pines start into fruit in October
and November. These may either be
such as failed to start along with
others in July and August, or of the
most forward of those intended for
starting next spring. In all cases
it is desirable to treat such plants
carefully, especially if they are Smooth
Cayennes, Charlotte Rothschilds, or
Jamaicas, for they ripen at a time
when dessert fruits are comparatively
scarce. If possible, let them be put
into a division of a Pine-pit by them-
selves where they can have as much
sunshine as possible, a bottom-heat of
95°, and an air temperature of 65° in
cold and 70° in mild weather, at night,
with a rise of 10° by day with sun.
All fruit now swelling off should have
a bottom-heat of 90° to 95°, and a night
temperature as recommended above.
Keep the air genially moist, and the
soil regularly damp without being
wet. All fruit that begin to colour
after the middle of this month should
be kept comparatively dry, especially
if the weather be, as it usually is, damp
and sunless. Large fruit in particular
are apt to begin to decay at the heart
before they are fully coloured if kept
too wet. A little air should be ad-
mitted on all favourable occasions
where fruit ape ripening. All Queens

intended for starting soon after the
shortest day should be kept dry and
quiet. 60° should not be exceeded as a
night temperature ; and a few degrees
lower will be better than hard firing
in cold nights. Put on a little air in
the pits when they exceed 65° with
sun or fire-heat by day. If the bottom-
heat is supplied by hot-water pipes,
and the plunging material be shallow,
see that they do not get injuriously
dry. If the plunging material be
moist, and the bottom-heat does not
exceed 80°, there is not much fear of
over-dryness. Look carefully over the
suckers that are well rooted in 6- and
7-inch pots every week, and do not
allow any of them to get over-dry, or
they may get set and start instead of
growing on in spring. See that they
are not crowded, for if they are, they
become "drawn" and weakly, and
never do satisfactorily afterwards.
Keep these at 60° at night, with 80° of
bottom-heat, with a few degrees less
when the weather is cold. Recently-
potted suckers should have a bottom-
heat of 90° and 65° of an air tempera-
ture till they are tolerably well rooted.
All Pine-pits that can have a covering
of canvas or frigidomo put over them
in severe frost should have such cover-
ing prepared for them instead of hard
firing.

s79.;

CALENDAR.

535

Grapes. — Look frequently to all
Grapes now hanging, and remove every
berry that shows signs of decay before
it spreads. There should not be a
plant under the Vines that requires
watering ; and everything about the
Vinery should be kept dry. To this
end put some extra heat into the pipes
on fine days when the houses can be
freely ventilated. At other times range
the temperature about 50°, unless when
forsty, when a few degrees less will
suffice. On damp foggy days, keep
the ventilators shut. Kemove all
leaves that are ready to drop, so that
they do not cause damp and impede
the free circulation of air about the
branches. All Vines intended to be
started before the end of February
should now have a covering put on
whatever portion of their roots is out-
side, if this has not already been at-
tended to. It is, however, undesirable
to have any portion of the roots of
such Vines as are started before the
New Year in outside borders at all.
The earliest Vinery should now have
a bed of leaves and stable - litter
put over the inside border, a portion
to be turned daily as it heats. There
is no more certain way of maturing a
strong regular start at so early a sea-
son. It is not, however, now so neces-
sary to start Vines before the 1st
December as it used to be. The fine
late-keeping varieties and the Grape
rooms render this early start less neces-
sary. Prune all Vines from which the
leaves have fallen and from which the
fruit is all cut, and clean the Vines
and Vineries, and put everything in
readiness for starting them when the
time comes. All Vines that have
shown signs of exhaustion should have
the top soil removed down to the roots,
replacing that which is removed with
fresh open loam, liberally mixed with
bone-meal, to the depth of 6 or 8
inches, and then lay over all 4 inches
of rich half-decomposed litter from a
horse loose -box or cow -yard. The
drainage being good, this will very
much stimulate the Vines, not so much
next summer, but the year after. If
soil for new Vine -borders has not
been collected, let it be done at once,
and in as dry a state as possible, and
protect it from rains till it is watered.

Peaches. — Trees in late houses on
which leaves are hanging should have
a whisk twice a- week with a broom
to bring off such leaves as are ready
to drop. Those that are to be started
next month should be pruned and tied,
and everything about the house and
border prepared for starting. Any
trees showing a retrograde tendency
should be treated as directed for
Vines. Where new borders have to
be made and young trees planted,
such work should be completed with-
out delay ; and any young trees that
have grown too strong last season
should be carefully lifted and replant-
ed, if this has not been attended to
previously. All trees in unheated
houses are late, and it will be later
than usual before they drop their
leaves.

Figs. — If any Figs are yet to ripen
on the latest trees bearing their second
crop, the atmosphere should be kept
rather dry and the temperature at 60°
at night. Prune and tie the early
trees ; and if they are old free-bearing
trees, apply a rich top-dressing to the
border ; and if the root-run be limited,
so much the richer should the dressing
be. Any young trees that are growing
too vigorously should be partially
lifted and root-pruned, and have no-
thing richer than pure loam laid on
the border.

Cucumbers. — The days being now
short and dull, the temperature at
night should recede to 70° when mild,
and 65° when cold, with a rise of a
few degrees by day, especially when
there is any sunshine. Water in the
soil and moisture in the air must be
regulated by the brightness or reverse
of the weather. Give a little air on
all fine days. Remove all deformed
fruit, and do not allow the plants to
bear many at once. Stop young shoots,
and keep a look - out for thrip and
greenfly, and keep them down by the
usual means. If mildew appears, dust
the affected parts with sulphur, and
keep the air drier till it is conquered.

Strawberries in Pots. — These
should no longer be exposed to heavy
rains, and if possible should be plung-
ed in cold frames where they will
not get dry at the root, and need but
little attention in the way of watering.

53G THE GARDENER. [Nov. 1879.

Iloticcs to Cnrrjtsponbcnts.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in ' The Gardener' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not for
publication unless they wiah it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and address
of writer.

Messrs Kennedy & Co., Dumfries. — Your Gloxinias are of a magnificent
strain, quite equal in colour and substance, with few exceptions, to the best
named varieties. The robustness of habit, and the way in which the foliage
thoroughly hides the pots, is a great recommendation to them. When grown
another year, and they are stronger and larger, they will, of course, be im-
proved.

A Constant Reader. — Not being possessed of the horticultural transactions
in which Mr Knight's practice is detailed, we cannot give you the information
you ask for.

C. L. C — 1, Phytolacca decandra ; 2, Tricyrtis hirta.

Muscat Grapes, Kent. — See that your Vines, having all their roots inside,
do not suffer for want of water. Remove the surface-soil down to the roots,
and then cover them with 4 inches of fresh turfy loam, mixing with it half
a bushel of hone-meal to every cubic yard. In spring lay over this 3 inches
of fresh horse or cow droppings, and during summer water with guano at the
rate of two ounces to every gallon of water. If, as you seem to suspect, poverty
is the cause of your Vines being so weak, this will put some fresh vigour in
them.

David Paton. — Your Seedling Grape very much resembles Buckland's
Sweetwater in appearance, but it is much superior in flavour. As you say it
is an early variety, it is likely to be a useful Grape. We would advise you to
submit it another season to some public test.

Malcolm Black.— 1, Black Morocco; 2, a Cape Heath, too much withered
to name ; 3, Nephrolepis pectinata ; 4, a Ruscus, but cannot say which from
specimen sent ; 5, Adiantum trapeziforme ; 6, quite shrivelled up — looks like
the point of an Aralia.

THE

GARDENER

DECEMBER 1879.

A FEW WORDS ABOUT ORCHIDS.

HERE cannot be a doubt as to which family of tropical
plants is the most popular at the present time. Orchid-
culture has extended by "leaps and bounds" during
the last decade or two, and their star is still in the
ascendant. Amateurs who cultivate plants for recreation, and who
enjoy the labour of tending them with their own hands, have taken
to Orchid-culture in no inconsiderable numbers. In a great many
villa-gardens of comparatively small extent, Orchids have become
a specialty. They are imported by almost, if not quite, the million,
and find a ready sale at what must be remunerative prices, — and
the cry is, still they come, and still they sell. One large nursery
establishment, we are assured, could not make their general plant
trade pay, apart from its house-upon-house full of Orchids. Another
nurseryman tells us he can sell Orchids very often when he cannot
sell anything else, and rarely ever sends an Orchid in bloom to an
exhibition that he does not sell there and then. When any large
and valuable collection of Orchids is brought to the hammer on
account of the decease of its owner, or from any other cause, fanciers
come from nearly all parts of the country to pick up good plants or
good varieties at very high prices. We hear of a Vanda being bought
for 100 guineas, a Lycaste for somewhere about 50, and an Angraacum
at a similar price ; a Masdevallia for 30, and a morsel of a fine Vanda
caarulea at 10 guineas, and so forth.

Can this state of things be indicative of good taste, and, as in the
case of superb paintings, a taste that is likely to be lasting 1 In
plants, as in most things, there is no doubt something in fashion, and

2 o

538 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

often it carries its devotees beyond the limits of good taste. If a love
for that which is interesting, singular, and curious in form and life, of
the most exquisite Mendings and tintings, strikingly distinct and bril-
liant in colouring, be good taste, then assuredly no family of plants
can gratify and whet it more than that of Orchids. It must be admitted
that many of its members when not in bloom are not graceful, but
ungainly and rustic — not much better at times than a bundle of bare
stems — as, for instance, the large genus of Dendrobiums ; yet some of
these bear among the most beautiful of flowers, compensating at one
season for their rather uncouth aspect at another. To the lovers of
the curious and interesting in form, what other family can provide so
much gratification as is to be found in a great number of the Orchid
family — such, for instance, as Peristeria elata, Angraecum sesquipedale,
Anguloa Clowesii, Cypripedium caudatum, not to enumerate dozens
more? What can excel or equal, both in interesting formation and
exquisite colouring, such as Cattleya oxoniensis (if not the most
splendid of all Orchids, certainly one of the most splendid of Orchids,
and very fragrant), Cattleya labiata and its varieties, and Dendrobiums
too numerous to name1? Then there are the delicate tints and Mend-
ings in the Aerides and Saccolabiums, the elegance and colouring com-
bined in the best types of Odontoglossum Alexandra?,, O. pescatorei,
0. cirrhosum, the massive size and delicacy of colour of O. vexillarium,
the purity of the grand old Coelogyne cristata, not to mention Phalae,
nopsis and many others as celebrated for their lively colouring as for
their remarkable formation.

A pretty good case could surely be made out for a taste that revels
in such plants, and its growth and extension is a matter to be desired ;
and such is likely to be the case, seeing that our swift steam-vessels
and the short cuts now available make it possible to land Orchids on
our shores in much finer and fresher condition than was possible at one
time not very far distant. As a whole, Orchids can now, no doubt, be
purchased at lower prices than fifteen or twenty years ago. Still superb
varieties of popular genera never were higher priced, simply because
the number of buyers of " crack " varieties are now more numerous ;
and considering the wealth of the country now, few things offer a better
investment from a commercial point of view than first-rate varieties of
Orchids.

A circumstance which has to a considerable extent of late induced
many to begin their culture, is the fact that some of the very finest
tropical Orchids have been grown under much cooler treatment than
was at one time dreamed of. Many of the most beautiful hail from
the high lands of the Americas, and not only thrive, but thrive by far
the best, in a temperature not much above what is necessary for a
mixed collection of greenhouse plants. Thus their beauty can be
much more enjoyed by all, and by many who cannot for many minutes
put up with a roasting tropical heat.

1879.] A FEW WORDS ABOUT ORCHIDS. 539

Looked at from what may be considered a utilitarian point of view —
namely, the supply of cut-flowers for various purposes — some Orchids
stand unrivalled. Few if any blooms last so long in rooms after they
are detached from the plants. Apart altogether from their beauty,
this is a most important recommendation. Given a glass-house, what
can be grown in it that will yield a more plentiful crop of flowers at a
season when they are scarce, and valued, than such as Dendrobium
nobile, Coelogyne cristata, Laelia anceps, Lycaste Skinneri, Odontoglos-
sum Alexandras, O. pescatorei, Cypripedium insignis, Phaius grandi-
flora, Calanthe Veitchii, C. vestita oculata rubra, Zygopetalum Mackayii,
Pleiones, not to mention many others, none of which rank among the
very high-priced 1 Moreover, they can all be grown in the same house
— ia a most enjoyable temperature — by keeping those of them which
hail from the warmest latitudes at the warmest end of the house, and
those which are from higher and cooler quarters at the coolest end.
'None of them require a high temperature to grow them perfectly well.
Neither are any of them ranked among those which are difficult or
troublesome to manage ; and we have no hesitation in affirming that,
at the dead of winter, there is no other plants that are so useful for
cut-flowers, or more interesting in all respects. Most of those named
above last a long time in an ordinary sitting-room. Calanthes re-
main fresh, opening their unexpanded blooms, for six weeks, and the
Coelogyne for a month. Any one who has half-a-dozen good plants of
Dendrobium nobile can afford to cut an entire bloom-stem, and does not
need much besides a few sprigs of Fern to make a vase or glass look
charming for a considerable time. They have also the merit of packing
and carrying well; and no box or case of cut-flowers can be considered
complete without a few Orchids.

Nearly all those named, and many more besides, thrive well in pot-
ting material composed of equal parts of the fibry part of peat and
sphagnum. The temperature required for Dendrobes, Phaius, Cal-
anthes, and Laelias, is a little higher than for the others, and they
should be at the warm end of the house, the Ccelogynes and Lycastes
at the middle, and the Cypripediums and Odontoglots at the coolest
end. In cold weather, 55° to 60° is sufficient for the former, and 5°
less for the latter. By a little difference in the extent of flow-pipes
next to the boiler, and by keeping the cool plants at the east end of
the house, a difference of 5° can easily be arranged without a division.
Of course it is always best when two compartments are at command ;
but these remarks are made in the interest of many who cannot have
two divisions devoted to Orchid-culture.

Beginners would get most useful and sound instruction from such
works as Williams's ' Orchid-Growers' Manual ' and Burbidge's ' Cool
Orchids.'

Subsequent to writing these remarks, we have eDJoyed an opportunity of
inspecting five collections, or rather selections, of Orchids, all of which are

540

THE GARDENER.

[Dec.

well known to a great many Orchid-growers. As we have referred specially to
this family of plants as possessing a singular charm for amateurs who do nearly
all the work connected with their culture, we will first briefly refer to Dr
Paterson's Fernfield, Bridge of Allan, as an example of what can be accom-
plished with the most commonplace — in fact, what many would consider in-
ferior— appliances. The houses at Fernfield consist of three very small com-
partments, without any divisional doors. The plants embrace the finest
varieties in cultivation of some of the genera, all in so robust and healthy
a condition as is rarely met with— indeed we never saw a lot of Orchids so
exceptionally healthy. To give some idea of the coolness of temperature
and airy condition under which these Orchids are grown, it will be sufficient
to state that, when we approached the garden at Fernfield, on the 13th No-
vember, the first thing we noticed was the door of the cool- Orchid apartment
standing wide open, and spikes of Odontoglossum, Masdevallias, Oncidiums,
Lycastes, &c, waving about with the current of cool air. In the next divi-
sion were such as Cattleya labiata, Lselias, Miltonia Morreliana, Vandas, &c,
in bloom, also subject to the free circulation of cool air — for there is no door on
the opening between this house and the cool division. In the third apartment
there were Aerides and Saccolabiums, in the most perfect health, and a grand
spike of Vanda crerulea, bearing fifteen very large and finely- coloured blooms.
We had been aware, previous to our visit, that the Doctor always had his
doors open all day in summer, except in cases of high winds, but were com-
pletely taken aback to see the door of the cool house stand open for five or
six hours on a clear bracing November day. The treatment of these Orchids
is exceptionally cool ; and the Doctor attributes his great success chiefly to
a free circulation of air and moisture in proportion.
At the time of our visit the following were in full bloom : —

Ansellia africana.

Anthurium alba.

Cattleya labiata (grand variety).

Cypripedium Sedenii.

,, insigne.

Dendrobium chrysanthum.

,, speciosum.

Epidendrum vitellinum majus.

,, falcatum.

Gongora atropurpurea.
Laslia anceps Barkeriana.

,, Perrinii.
Lycaste Skinnerii (immense blooms).

,, lanipes.
Masdevallia i^nea.

,, Veitchii.

,, Harryana casrulescence.

„ Lindenii.

Me«ospinidium vulcanicum.
Miltonia Morreliana purpurea.

Odontoglossum pescatorei.
,, Alexandras.

,, Bictonense.

,, uro-Skinnerii.

Oncidium ornithorliynchum.
,, vai'icosum.
,, crispum.
,, serratum.
Pleione maculata.
,, Wallichiana.
,, lagenaria.
Sophronitis grandiflora.
,, cernua.

,, fine lake-coloured imported

variety.
Vanda cserulea (splendid variety).
,, suavis.

,, tricolor Patersonii (grand vari-
ety).

On the same occasion we visited Mr Smith's, of Bretby Park, Stirling, where
the nucleus of a fine collection has already been got together ; and plant-houses,
now occupied with mixed collections of plants, besides a new house in course
of erection, are to be devoted exclusively to Orchids. Here we saw the lovely
Lycaste Skinnerii alba, in bloom, and various others. At John Gair's, Esq.,
the Kilns, Falkirk, a large collection of Orchids is being formed, and several
houses are devoted to their culture ; and the plants are in a thoroughly prom-
ising condition. It is only a year or two since Mr Gair took to Orchid cul-

i879-] RESTING AND WATERING PLANTS. 541

ture, and on that account most of the plants are comparatively small, but
are thriving remarkably well. A plant of Odontoglossum Londesboroughianum
was just opening, probably the first time of its blooming in Scotland. At
John Russell's, Esq. of Mayfield — a place which has long been justly cele-
brated for many of the finest specimens in cultivation, but which were
dispersed a few years ago — we were greatly surprised to find all the Orchid-
houses again full of Orchids. We presume Mr Russell could not take to a new
line, and so has gone with all his heart into his old one. Although the
specimens here are yet far short of what the old ones were, they are on the
road to a similar success, under the able management of Mr Sorely, Mr Russell's
gardener. Many interesting specimens were here in bloom, but being " tied"
to a traiD, we took no notes. The most extraordinary growths of Dendrobium
Wardianum we ever saw were here. They were quite 3 feet long, and as thick
as a man's forefinger. At A. B. Stewart's, Esq. of Langside, we found that
great strides have been made in Orchid collecting and culture during the last
two years. A grand plant of Cattleya oxoniensis was here in fine bloom, the real
Phalteaopsis grandiflora, and many others. The fiuest plant of Vanda Lowii
in the country is in this collection. We found the general tendency to use
more sphagnum, and less lumpy peat, in Orchid culture, than was the case at
one time in force at all these places ; and we think, from our own experience,
this is a step in the right direction. The treatment generally is also much
cooler, as we before remarked, than was at one time practised.

— **j*sf#s«r*ti —

RESTING AND WATERING PLANTS.

Plants generally will be safely located in their winter quarters, many
of them, we fear, in a backward state, and by no means so well pre-
pared to withstand the winter as in many previous years. The wood
of numerous flowering subjects that require thorough ripening and a fair
season of rest, especially those that have done duty late this season —
such as Allamandas, Bougainvilleas, Clerodendrons, &c. — will need
every attention in thoroughly maturing the wood. Owing to their pre-
mature state, a slower process must be adopted in bringing the plants
safely to rest, otherwise fatal results must be anticipated. Consider-
ing the immature state of both flowering and foliage, extra caution will
this year have to be exercised. Plants of the fine-foliage type that had
completed their growth by the end of October last year and before this
time, were enjoying that season of repose which is expedient for the
wellbeing of many subjects. An early rest, if time is an object with
the cultivator, is the only means necessary to insure an early start again
at the commencement of the year. The dull and sunless season, com-
bined with a downpour of rain that is now fast drawing to a close,
has been unfit to solidify the growth of plants, and bring them to that
satisfactory stage of maturity to receive an early slumber. If artificial
means have not been adopted to assist in their maturation, and they
are allowed to keep in a semi-active state with a view of insuring an
early and vigorous growth in the spring, the result ends in disappoint-

542 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

ment; and when wanted to grow, they will naturally stand still and
enjoy the demands of nature. It is unwise for cultivators to adopt
systems contrary to natural laws, instead of using every possible means
in their power to bring plants to a stand-still artificially — not by force,
but gradually, according to their constitution and requirements. The
little time that may be considered lost by some growers in subjecting
plants to a resting period in late seasons will be repaid by the vigorous
and luxuriant growth made afterwards. Withholding water is not the
only means necessary to bring plants to rest, and the ordeal of drying
with many classes would prove more detrimental than beneficial. Yet
a judicious use of the water-pot with evergreen plants is indispensable.
To keep their roots healthy and their foliage from being injured is
what is required. In other cases it is necessary to withhold water,
and to maintain a drier atmosphere and lower temperature. Plants in
every department need careful watering, more especially as the days
shorten and growth comes to a stand-still. In many instances we have
noticed plants suffering for want of water when they most needed it ;
while, on the other hand, it is too frequently supplied with a venge-
ance, and neither thought nor care exercised in its application until
bad results follow, and a large amount of damage is perceptible. We
would, if success is the object, forcibly urge the importance of caution
in watering, and carefully examining the requirements of plants.
Plants do not need so much water after growth is completed ; nor in
the dark short days of winter is there any agent to evaporate it so
freely from the pots as when the heat and dryness of the air require
so much to feed it. It is during the winter season and early spring
that watering should be most carefully studied. Too frequently do
we see that beautiful genus Erica, " which deserves to be more largely
grown," suffering in winter through the application of water in a care-
less manner — too much at times, then again not sufficient — which no
after-treatment can rectify. Their nature, and the solidity of the soil
in which they are potted, should guide us in a large measure not.to
give them too much. Azaleas of the indica type are plants that in
many cases undergo severe treatment ; and in a great measure their
injury may be traced to the way in which they are supplied with water.
The fine fibry nature of their roots soon becomes destroyed if negligence
in watering is resorted to. These, while in an active state, are allowed
to get dust-dry, and are kept on the dry side perhaps for weeks, in order,
as we have heard it remarked, to bring them to rest. Under such treat-
ment we need not wonder at so many examples being destitute of foli-
age, and looking more like a bundle of dead sticks through the winter
than Azaleas. We need not wonder at them presenting such a melan-
choly appearance when subjected to such unnatural treatment in order
to bring them to rest. In time they are brought to a long rest, and
find their resting-place on the rubbish-heap. We are aware Azaleas
shed a portion of their leaves annually ; but it can readily be seen that

1879] DRACAENAS FOR TABLE DECORATION. 543

healthy vigorous plants only shed a small percentage compared to those
subjected to a starving process. They should never suffer for want of
water in any stage of development : a low airy temperature is the best
possible means of inducing rest. Many of the causes attributed to the
falling of Camellia-buds can, in the majority of cases, be traced to dry-
ness at the root, after the buds have developed to a certain stage :
they, too, should never be allowed to suffer.

As before alluded to, carefulness will be necessary in every depart-
ment ; and watering, in our idea, is one of the principal points con-
nected with the successful culture of plants. Soil may be right, tem-
perature suitable, and houses well-appointed ; but if watering is not
properly attended to, and is carelessly applied, what success can be an-
ticipated 1 It is much easier to make a mistake at this time of the
year than during summer. Many plants, especially Orchids, require
much attention in this respect : many of them are benefited by water
being withheld for a long time ; while others require to be kept moist,
or much damage is done to their foliage.

After the general potting in the spring, a close watch should be kept
until the newly-potted plants get well hold of the new soil and com-
mence growing luxuriantly. In concluding, we may add, that those in
charge of the watering of plants cannot give the subject too much
consideration, or exercise too much discretion through the winter and
spring months. Wm. Bardney.

A SELECTION OF CHOICE DRACAENAS FOR
TABLE DECORATION.

Thanks to Mr Bause's skill and energy, and to others following in his
wake, we have now an almost illimitable number of this fine genus of
plants to choose from for the various purposes of decoration to which
they are adapted. The risk now is, that we may find ourselves embar-
rassed by our riches, instead of being hampered — as we were only a
very few years ago — by the poverty of variety of form and colour which
existed then. It is quite true that for table decoration some of the
older forms, such as D. Cooperii and D. terminalis, cannot yet be dis-
pensed with. On the score of cheapness and economy they must still
for some time be the principal subjects for table decoration. And
it must be conceded, also, that in their own particular style as regards
form and colouring they are unsurpassed ; but there are a good many
varieties of recent origin which, when plentiful enough to be equally
cheap, will divide and claim a large share of popular favour with these
fine old sorts. Many of these novelties present marked features both
of form and colouring from any of the older species, the forms being
specially adapted in some to the requirements of table decoration,
while the colouring is varied and beautiful, even to the eclipsing of

544 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

that of the two fine sorts above named. They have other recommen-
dations, also, than novelty and grace, and fitness of form and colour.
Not a few are slower growers, and do not therefore outgrow the
dimensions generally requisite in table-plants. They also more quickly
come to colour — many, in fact, exhibiting charming colouring when
only a few inches high. In not a few instances, too, a greater persist-
ency of the leaves is notable, which is a valuable feature, the want of
which in D. Cooperii is its chief objection.

In presenting the following selection, I may remark that some old
and apparently comparatively inferior sorts are included, especially
amongst the green-leaved varieties. My apology for so doing is, that
some of these green -leaved varieties being hardier than the more
showy ones, are better adapted to the requirements of a very large
class of people — especially about towns — who have only, perhaps, a
small greenhouse in which to cultivate the few table or room plants
they want. The two varieties congesta and rubra are handsome plants
also in their way, and the latter particularly will endure the wear and
tear of room-life better than any other; and, being plentiful, it is
cheap, which is no small consideration with the many.

GREEN-LEAVED SPECIES.

D. congesta. — A well-known sort, of common aspect, with very narrow, green,
somewhat arching leaves of very leathery texture. The young leaves, when
well exposed to light, assume a deep bronze tint. This is sometimes apparently
confounded with the following species, which is, however, quite distinct.

D. rubra. — This has considerably broader leaves than the last, and alto-
gether a fuller and better habit. The leaves are a light olive-green, narrowly
margined with a band of bronze.

D. gracilis is the most graceful of all the green forms, or perhaps of any
form of Dracaena. The leaves rarely exceed half an inch in width : they are a
fine lively olive-green, with a broad brown margin running the entire length
from base to point. The sort called D. marginata and this are identical — that
is, they are or may be obtained from the same stock. The top-cuttings form
marginata true, while the successive breaks from the same stem form gracilis
true.

D. tesscllata. — Why this particular form is so called does not appear in any
feature exhibited in the plant. It is a very plain green sort, capable of hard
wear, but not particularly ornamental.

D. Haageana is one of the most distinct of the green-leaved sorts, having
longish ovate, bright-green leathery leaves, which stand the dry atmosphere of
rooms well. The habit of the plant is compact and pleasing.

WHITE AND LIGHT COLOURED SPECIES.

D. Guilfoylei. — This is a very handsome species when well coloured. As in
all those remarkable for colour, the tops of medium-sized plants make the finest
and most effective table-plants. The long lanceolate leaves have more than
average substance in them, which enables them to stand the trying atmosphere
of rooms better than most of the coloured species.

Mrs Wills. — A very dwarf form, of sturdy close habit. The leaves are ovate-

1879.] DRACAENAS FOR TABLE DECORATION. 545

lanceolate, bright green, striped with white, the younger leaves often becom-
ing wholly white. It proves a capital room-plant, the dense leathery texture
of the leaves resisting the arid influence of rooms. It may be grown in an
intermediate-house temperature, which is an additional consideration in its
favour.

D. regina. — A bolder form, of similar style to the last, but generally requir-
ing to be grown to too large a size for table-work before it acquires its fine
colour. Yet when well done in medium-sized plants it is very handsome.

D. speciosa. — A very fine bold species, suitable, when well grown, for con-
trasting with the darker-leaved varieties on large tables or sideboards. The
habit is rather erect, the foliage broad and long-margined, and striped with
white, the youngest leaves becoming often pure white, the leaf - stalks and
margins of the leaves showing a clouding of rosy-purple.

D. terminalis alba. — Having the habit and form of the leaves of the old
D. terminalis, with more substance, this is a decided acquisition among
white-coloured Dracaenas. It has the merit of colouring in a very young
state ; finely- coloured plants may be had from cuttings at 1 foot high.

DARK-LEAVED SPECIES.

D. bellula. — This is a miniature species, and adapted to purposes which
no other that I am acquainted with so well suits. Very nice well - coloured
plants may be grown to a foot or more high in 4-inch or even smaller pots.
The leaves are about 3 to 5 inches long, closely recurved on the stem, and
not more than an inch broad — deep bronze, striped with purplish crimson, and
occasional bars of bright olive-green. When done in small pots, it makes a
most suitable ornament for small vases.

D. Cooperii. — No list of Dracaenas for table decoration would be complete
without this old and well-known sort.

D. Emestii. — A very handsome sort, of light, elegant habit. The leaves are
lanceolate, tapering, and recurved — deep bronze -green, with broad crimson
margin. The young leaves are rosy pink and cream-coloured.

D. Frederici. — This is one of the newest and best as regards colouring
and habit. The plant grows to moderate size slowly, but to colour quickly.
The leaves are long, stalked, and spreading. The ground colour is dark
shining bronze, edged with crimson, the leaf - stalks partaking of the same
brilliant colour. The younger leaves become broadly margined with purple,
shading off with age into the glowing crimson of the older leaves. It is
altogether one of the most effective Dracaenas for table decoration yet
introduced.

D. Mrs Bause. — A very neat and highly coloured variety, of dwarf habit.
The leaves are elegantly recurved, from 9 inches to 1 foot long ; they are
deep bronze-green, margined and striped with deep rosy-crimson, the younger
leaves being bright rose with a dash of crimson, and occasionally streaked
with bright olive-green.

D. Mrs C. J. Freake. — A very handsome variety, of free but moderate growth,
and colouring early. The leaves are slightly arching, long-stalked, about 2
inches broad, deep bronzed olive -green, broadly margined with brilliant
crimson.

D. nigro-rubra. — A very excellent sort for table decoration. The sort is so
well known as to hardly need description. The form which is sold under the
name elegantissima is so slightly different, if at all, as to be undesirable in
the same collection.

546 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

D. Rcnardcc. — This is one of the newer introductions, and is a worthy one.
The leaves are oblong-ovate, elegantly recurved. The ground colour is
very deep olive-green with a dash of bronze, margined with crimson rose. The
younger leaves are variegated in changeful style with rosy pink, cream
colour, and white suffused with rose, the youngest ones being wholly of the
latter combination.

D. Sydncyi. — This is of the same type as Ernestii, and perhaps not quite
distinct enough to be desirable in the same collection. Its habit is freer and
more open, and the leaves are longer and broader than in the latter, and also
more erect. The colour is a deep bronze-green, in the mature leaves edged
with deep rose - crimson. The younger leaves assume wholly a rosy-crimson
tint, very bright and effective. It colours at a very early stage of growth, and
is therefore a very desirable sort.

D. stricta or ferrea stricta. — This is sometimes erroneously called, terminalis
stricta, but it has nothing in common with that sort. It is a very bold, useful
variety, of erect style and brilliant colour when the plants are grown rapidly
from cuttings rather than eyes. It is also very serviceable, and endures well
in rooms.

D. terminalis. — The last but not the least of the present selection. When
rapidly grown from cuttings, this is one of the most brilliantly coloured of the
whole group, and it is certainly one of the most enduring. W. S.

HARDY PERMANENT EDGINGS.

It is surprising how constantly we require to be learning. It seems
that while we are ever learning, we are, at the same time, ever forget-
ting; and while, on the whole, we may be adding to our stock of know-
ledge in the aggregate, our mental notes are filed and forgotten, until
now and then the eye or ear, like an index to a good book, suddenly
prompts the mind that its notes can be utilised to some immediate
purpose. It is hard work to think ; and we may even see and not
observe, consequently we slide along in an old groove, and allow others
to think for us : an occasional jerk of shame, necessity, or interest is
a wholesome stimulus to action. We have lately been aroused to a
sense of our own short-sightedness while comparing the doings of a
neighbour with our own, in the matter of hardy plants which might be
used for edging or carpeting. In looking round a well-stocked wild
garden, which, however, is a rarity ; or a richly-planted rockery, which
is rarer still — the rockery at the Botanic Gardens, Edinburgh, for
instance, — a monument to the maker, and a book of reference to those
within its reach — it is surprising how many plants are clearly suitable
for edging or carpeting permanently, or changing annually if desired.
Many of them may be poor things, so far as showy flowers are con-
cerned, but form and habit are equally or more essential for the purpose,
and, happily, form and habit are becoming equally appreciated with
colour. We wish to draw attention to a few of which we have some

1879.] HARDY PERMANENT EDGINGS. 547

experience, — and first to some of the neglected Sedums. There are
several which have become quite familiar to most people, of the very
small S. acre type, such as S. acre aurea and S. acre elegans ; also S.
glaucum, lydium, dasyphyllum, and corsicum. But there are others
equally deserving of culture, and the foremost is surely Sedum album,
a dense-growing, reddish-green species ; but its beauty is in the flowers
— it is quite a flowering plant for edgings. Last summer it lasted a
long time on the rockery and in borders; and many yards on the top of
a high wall here were quite gay with its elegant flowers, but did not
last so long as those on the ground. We intend pressing this into the
flower-garden service next summer. Another bold-growing glaucous
sort is at present in better condition than it has been all the summer
— namely, monstrosum, elegans, or Fosterianum. It sometimes grows
with the ends of the shoots fasciated, so called monstrosum. Which-
ever is the right name, it is a very desirable plant in the mass, does
not flower very freely, the spikes large and heavy, yellow, and best
pinched off as they appear. Sedum anacampseros is a really elegant
species, with round glaucous leaves, not unlike a small Echeveria
secunda glauca. The stems lie prostrate on the ground like other
Sedums, but the little pyramidal ends of the shoots are always erect.
There is a large sheet of it hanging over a large rockery-stone here, and
it is novel and elegant. It is a plant as old as any English garden. We
have propagated several hundreds of it by nipping off the leafy points
of the shoots and inserting them in prepared ground, and shall give it
a place in the flower-beds next year. Sedum acre aureum is now being
used to carpet beds of Hyacinths and Tulips, and we expect in the spring
that the arrangement will look well. This has a tendency to turn off
green on rich soil, when it fast becomes an intolerable weed. It keeps
colour best when made to creep and hang over stones. Another of those
Sedums, and we have done with them — Sedum spurium or oppositi-
folium, we are not sure. It forms a close dense mass of green, close
on the ground, the leaves broad and fleshy. There are three varieties
growing on blocks, stones, and the open border here. One variety is
the best in colour — a dark-red ; the other two are white and rose-colour,
the flowers large. This Sedum will make a very desirable change
among hardy carpet-plants ; even the flowers are showy hanging over a
large stone. A few hundreds put in to propagate last month in nursery
lines have become quite red in the foliage, as the small Sedum lydium
does under a hot sun. There are three of the Periwinkles, which are
very neat for permanent edgings to beds — namely, Vinca herbacea,
V. minor, and V. minor variegata — the latter a very choice plant,
though all are sometimes found carpeting the ground in woods. The
variegated variety is a good substitute for Euonymus radicans varie-
gata, which requires rather a warm soil and climate to bring out its
character. The Vinca thrives anywhere in sun or shade, creeping over
the rockery or in the open border. The double-flowering variety of

548 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

the green V. minor is desirable even for its flowers, although they, from
their colour, cannot be called showy against the dark-green foliage.

Few plants surpass the Ivies for permanent edgings, especially the
small - leaved varieties and the gold - and - silver margined, although
these last take a longer time to grow and fill up space than the green
varieties. As compared with Box for kitchen-garden edgings, we are
not sure whether Ivy would not be for the best on some soils where
Box does not thrive. For edging flower-beds, the best plan by far is to
stretch a strong wire tightly along the edge of the bed or border to be
edged, if a straight line ; but if curved, a light iron rod bent to the pro-
per curvature on which to train the Ivy. Three or four inches, or six
inches above the ground, according to taste or position, will do — the
latter height for Roses, the shorter height for flower-beds. Plant thickly
and train cordon fashion, and very soon a neat permanent edging is
formed, the young side - growths of the Ivy drooping gracefully to
the ground ; and soon the wire is completely hid, but maintains the
edging stiff and straight.

The next plant we will mention may occasion a smile ; but we cannot
help calling attention to its merits, since its very commonness may
cause it to be passed by. Lysimachia nummularia is a plant often
used for edging vases, notably at one of the Park Lane gates of Hyde
Park many years ago. Its large showy yellow flowers have been very
abundant the whole of the last wet summer. It is particularly deserv-
ing of a place as a variety in edging any dwarf arrangement, especially
in moist shady places, such being the localities where it is found wild.
Sagina procumbens is a very common plant or weed, carpeting the
ground when not wanted; but common though it be, there is no plant
which will form a neater, or greener, or more dense carpet than this.
We have this season seen it worked into several very neat designs in
carpet-bedding in a first-class garden, and again in a villa garden near
Edinburgh. It really seems to deserve a place in preference to such a
plant as Herniaria glabra, or even the tender Mentha gibraltarica.
Readers will probably here be inclined to say that we are simply
introducing weeds into the flower-garden ; but we may fairly ask the
question, What is a weed 1 Is a common indigenous plant a weed, or
is it, as the late Earl Russell once defined it, any plant out of place %

The Squire's Gardener.

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.
STATICE PROFUSA.

Among flowering greenhouse-plants this Statice must take rank among
the foremost, both as an ornamental plant and for the profusion and
enduring quality of its flowers, as they may be said to be almost ever-
lasting. And yet, somehow, the plant is not nearly so much cultivated

1879.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 549

as its sterling merits deserve. A good, well-bloomed specimen is a
sight not easily forgotten. Yet how seldom do we see what may be
called a good specimen, or even in how few places do we find it grown
at all. This cannot arise from any very great difficulty in th e cultiva-
tion of it, as it is no more difficult to manage than the majority of
greenhouse plants. As an exhibition plant, when well grown, few
things are more telling in a collection.

We believe that many growers err in coddling it too much, by grow-
ing it in heat at certain stages of its growth. A moderate heat for a
short time will not do any harm, but it thrives best under cool treat-
ment. When thoroughly established, it delights in rich feeding, and
well repays any extra care bestowed upon it. Established plants
should never be subjected to a higher temperature than about 50° of
fire-heat : of course in summer the coolest structures will be much
hotter than this, but then there will be air given in proportion.

This Statice is propagated by cuttings, which should be taken off, if
practicable, with a heel, early in spring. They should be potted up
singly at once in thumb-pots in a mixture of peat rubbed through a
fine sieve and sharp silver sand in equal proportions. Make a hole
with the finger, put in the cutting with some pure sand about it, then
press all firmly in, water through a fine rose, and plunge the pots
up to the rim in a bottom-heat of between 80° and 90°. If they can
be covered with a bell-glass for a time so much the better, as it will
tend to hasten the rooting process. When they are well rooted, and
before getting matted in the pots, they must be shifted into 4-inch pots,
using the soil in a rougher state, and a little good fibry loam along with
it. The pots would be all the better of being half-plunged in the hot-
bed until they begin to take to the fresh soil, when they may be stood
on the surface of the bed, and air admitted in moderate quantities at
first, so as to gradually harden them off, and render them fit to stand
a cooler temperature than they have been enjoying.

About the beginning of June they will have been sufficiently hard-
ened off to stand in a cold pit or frame : if in the latter, see that a good
bed of ashes be under them, or set them up on inverted pots, so as to
prevent worms from finding their way into them, as they are very
injurious to them when they do get in. They will be all the better of
a slight sprinkling with water overhead occasionally, and aired freely
during the day, at the same time avoiding draughts.

About the middle of August they may want a shift into larger pots,
which may be 6-inch ones, and this will be quite large enough for them
the first year. The same kind of soil to be used, only rougher, and
some good old cow-dung may be incorporated with it, and a little put
over the crocks as well. Keep the flower-stems picked off as they
appear, so that all the energies of the plant may be directed towards
making a good foundation for the future specimen. They must be
carefully watched in regard to watering, so that they may not suffer for

550 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

lack of it, else they will soon be visited by their two great enemies —
spider and thrips. On the other hand, care must be taken that they
are not over-watered, so as to render the soil sour or sodden, else they
will soon get into bad health ; and, like many other plants, it is easier
to put them into this state than to resuscitate them when once they
have fallen into ill health. An ordinary greenhouse is the best place
in which to winter them. They must be kept gently on the move, not
allowed to rest by allowing them to become dry; but water may be more
sparingly applied during the dull winter months, and fresh air admitted
on every favourable opportunity. During the second and succeeding
years, if large plants are wanted, they must be encouraged as much as
possible. They will be ready for a shift into 8- or 9-inch pots early
in February. A liberal allowance of old cow-dung may be mixed
with the soil, and a layer of it put over the crocks. Continue to shift
them as they require it, and in potting press the soil pretty firmly
about the ball.

Unless for very large specimens, 11- or 12-inch pots are large
enough for handling, and a good large plant can be grown in this size
of pot. The stamina of the plants must be kept up by surface-dress-
ings of old cow manure and waterings of liquid manure. Of course
these need not be applied until the pots are well filled with roots ; and
with care and proper attention, plants may be kept in good health in
these same pots for many years. It is not absolutely essential that
peat should form the chief part of the compost, as they will thrive
equally well in loam, provided it be good and have plenty of fibre in
it. A few pieces of charcoal will be an advantage in helping to keep
the soil open and sweet. Always make sure that the drainage is in
good working order and the plants kept clean. These remarks have
been confined to the Statice profusa, but they apply equally to the
other varieties. It is seldom, however, that we see more than it and
Holfordii grown. J. G.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

Your highly respectable contemporary, the Irish 'Gardeners' Record,' we
would recommend to the attentive perusal of the horticultural press generally
— it is worth watching. It is difficult to feel anything but commiseration and
sympathy for a journal that has to pack its pages promiscuously with para-
graphs about such subjects as "Holloway's Pills," which, the 'Record ' states,
in a chatty way, " are as mild as they are efficacious." This statement is not
given as an advertisement, and so we expect its editor has tried them. There
is no harm, of course, in a grateful acknowledgment of this kind; but it is different
when the ' Record ' appropriates whole chapters from its contemporaries without
acknowledgment, simply because it appreciates them as it does the pills. We
observe that it has transferred that chapter of the " Squire's Gardener's " on
" Mixed Flower-Gardening," from ' The Gardener' to its own pages without so
much as " By 'r leave, sir." Robbing the ample stores of 'The Gardener' is

1879.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 551

perhaps not so heinous an offence ; but what is any one to think of the same
paper abstracting matter in the same way from the pages of its humble con-
temporary ' The Villa Gardener ' ? Is it not too bad ? It is the old story of
the big dog robbing the little one. In the same number of the ' Record ' is an
unacknowledged article on " Epidendrums," which appeared in the ' V. G.' of
August last. There are also articles on one or two other subjects we should
like to know the parentage of. [We do not care much about being quoted
without acknowledging the source, but we are sorry to think that any garden-
ing journal is capable of so doing. — Ed.]

The prophets are again speculating on the chances of a severe winter. If, as
they assert, bad winters follow cold and wet summers, then the ensuing winter
ought to be a severe one. It has not set in yet, however, with us. October
was exceptionally fine ; and November, up to near the middle of month, has
been as pleasant almost as the month of June. Contradictory accounts come
from other countries. Among the vineyards of Austria heavy snow fell early
in October and destroyed the hopes of the growers. In far-away Iceland, on
the other hand, within the Arctic Circle, the inhabitants have been basking
under an almost Italian sun till late in the season, and some had nothing to
complain of all the summer but the heat and the drought.

According to all accounts, many kinds of flower-seeds are likely to be both
scarce and dear next season. Mignonette seed is all but a complete failure ;
and those who require it by the ton, we hear, have a difficulty in getting any-
thing like their usual quantity, and holders are reserving their stock. The
failure of the potato crop has been complete in this country ; but the fear of a
potato famine is groundless, as the Continental growers are contributing abun-
dant supplies. Potatoes are dear, however, and likely to be. The variety
ailed Magnum Bonum seems to have resisted the disease better than any other
— to be almost disease-proof, indeed, if we are to believe what has been written
about it in most of the gardening and agricultural papers. Dealers are buying
up stock of it for seed, and no doubt it will have a good run.

We have rarely seen anything that has pleased us so much as those lines in
' Good Words ' on " The Cloudberry." The style is something between Tom
Hood, in his more serious moods, and Wordsworth : —

" Nay, touch it not ; 'tis the Cloudberry bloom,

My friend, you and I have found,
On this far height, 'mid the soft June winds,

Pale-white on the mossy ground.
Ah ! rarely 'tis seen by the eye of man ;

By us let it not be soiled ;
The sprites linger long on the mists of the morn

To watch it ope on the wild.

High 'neath the clouds thou bloomest alone,

Lost flower of the moorland free ;
Thy homage the circling peewits cry,

And the hum of the mountain bee.

Bloom fairer than thee I ne'er have seen

On dale or on hill I've climbed,
And ne'er have I known a darker birth

By the power of heaven sublimed ! "

552 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

The ignorance displayed by eminent public men occasionally on the subjects
of which they speak is perfectly astonishiug. A certain noble lord, in a speech
delivered by him before an agricultural society in the south, gave it as his
opinion that the climate of Great Britain was deteriorating, or becoming
colder ; and, in support of this opinion, stated that neither the Bay nor the
Arbutus, among other things, would now stand our winters without protec-
tion ; and that the Camellia, which once used to be hardy with us, is now not
to be seen out of doors ! It need not be pointed out how much the noble lord is
in error about the two first; and if he had been a reader of these papers, where
he could have procured more accurate information on such subjects, he would
have known that there was never a time when the hardiness of the Camellia
was better recognised and acted upon, and that it has scarcely ever been
known to be killed by our winters.

The ' Garden ' says : " Mr Peter Henderson recommends, in the 'American
Agriculturist, '.a flower-pot with holes low down in the side instead of in the
bottom. We have, he says, during the past six months tried about a thousand,
of sizes ranging from 3 inches to 6 inches in diameter, -and find they are all we
expected of them. All cultivators know the difficulty experienced when the
ordinary flower-pot is placed on a bench covered with sand or soil — the outlet
often becomes completely closed by the washing of the soil through the outlet,
aud being closed by the sand, the drainage becomes stopped as completely as
if there was no orifice at all in the bottom of the pot. Again, worms breed
quickly in the sand or soil, and seem to take a special pleasure in crawling
under and through the holes in the bottom of the pots, to get at the rich soil
which they contain. This improved pot is safe from the first difficulty, as the
holes, being on the sides of the pot, cannot be clogged by the sand ; while it
is far less tempting to the worm, as a special effort must be made before the
hole can be reached. Still another advantage — and we think a very important
one — is, that as these orifices are placed above the bottom, air is admitted more
freely to the roots, a matter which is very essential to the wellbeing of plants.
I have but little doubt that if this style of flower-pot can be as cheaply made,
it will quite throw the old style out of use."

Flower-pots with holes at the side, close to the bottom, are not new ; and we
believe it was the Glasgow makers who first made them, at the suggestion of
the late Mr Charles M'Intosh of Dalkeith, but the plan was only adopted with
pots above the size of 6 inches or thereabout. Those pots had holes in the
bottom too, however, and it appears a good suggestion of Mr Henderson's to
dispense with these altogether, for the reasons he states. There would be less
danger then of worms getting into the pots, or of the drainage being choked
up; but how about those plants that are sometimes allowed to root through
the bottom of the pot ?

The 'Journal of Horticulture ' says : " It is not perhaps generally known
how valuable the pretty variegated Ophioglossum spicatum is for table and
room decoration. When the plants are grown in a little heat the foliage
assumes a more upright character than is generally seen, and as it then grace-
fully arches the plants are extremely attractive. The narrow leaves are clearly
margined with white, and being smooth and persistent endure the dry air of
rooms for a considerable time without being injured. Well-grown plants are
equally useful for the margins of greenhouses and conservatories. When
flowering, the purple Grape Hyacinth-like spike contrasts effectively with the
white foliage ; but whether in or out of flower the plant is very useful for
decorative purposes. As testimony of the increasing popularity of this Ophio-

1879.] FLOWER-GARDENING NOTES. 553

glossum we recently observed a batch of plants iu Messrs Veitch's nursery, a
great portion of which, were labelled ' sold.' Visitors have seen, admired, and
purchased them."

Plants that "go off" amongst gardeners usually turn out to be popular
subjects of general culture. Beader.

FLOWER-GARDENING NOTES.

Thanks to the fine autumn weather, flowering bedding-plants have late
in the season somewhat retrieved the bad repute they got into through-
out the summer and early autumn months. At present date (November
10) Geraniums are still blooming freely, but tender subjects, such as
Ageratums, Iresines, &c, have been destroyed by frosts; and the
arrangements have, notwithstanding the dry weather, been incomplete.
If one could only be certain, at least to an extent sufficient to be sure
of the general run of weather, it would be a comparatively easy matter
to suit our bedding arrangements to the weather ; but as things go at
present, any attempt at doing so is simply haphazard. When the study
of the weather attains to the dignity of one of the correct sciences,
what a great load off gardeners' shoulders it will be merely to consult
the report of the current season's weather and arrange accordingly. As
it is, there is no date which can be relied on as trustworthy, and we are
obliged to take the weather as it comes, and find the bedding-out either
suitable or otherwise as the case may be. Leaving the weather out of
account as a factor over which we have neither control nor sufficient
knowledge to make up for want of control by other means, we are re-
duced to doing what we can with the subjects already in cultivation as
bedding-plants, or those which may be added from time to time as their
suitability is noted. The fault in the various phases through which
the " bedding-out" system has come, has been the exclusion of all other
modes of arrangement, or kind of plants used at particular times, if not
in the fashion at that particular period. That fault is as prevalent at
the present day as ever it was when lines of red, white, and blue were
set off against clumps of the same and other distinct colours, varied,
without being improved, by cutting up the beds and borders in kaleido-
scopic fashion. Carpet-bedding when "gone into" has been rendered
somewhat nauseating to many ; and the " rage " for hardy plants, if
too exclusively adopted, will merely mark another era in the history of
modern bedding-out. To give hardy plants, as bedding plants, a fair
trial, it would be necessary to alter the conformation of most gardens.
As a rule, they are not suitable for massing in geometrically formed
designs, nor do many of them possess continuous blooming capacity to
allow their taking a position of prominence in any such arrangements.
At the same time, there are many gardens with the beds so disposed
that these can be made use of both usefully and effectively. Some

2 p

554 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

of the dwarf Campanulas in shades of blue and white, Salvia patens,
Senecio squarrosa, yellow, the common double Feverfew, Pyrethrum
parthenium, Vittadinia triloba, the common yellow Saxifrage, Antir-
rhinums, dwarf Mimulus, and Nepeta caerulea are a few sorts which
mostly require the seeds removed in order to have a continuous dis-
play of flowers. Many other hardy flowers can be planted for dis-
play at certain seasons, as in spring, or late in autumn, when we have
the most gorgeous and stately flowers of the year to select from.
There is also a very neglected class of plants which are intrinsically
of the highest worth to the flower- gardener, provided he selects
with caution. These are hardy annuals. I think the two finest
flower-beds I have seen this past season were at Whittinghame, where
Mr Garrett had a bed of Godetia Lady Albemarle, and another of
Saponaria calabrica, both in perfect order. A very pretty arrange-
ment I saw at a ducal establishment last year, was formed of a ground-
work of Oxalis tropseoloides, dotted here and there with some large
growing plants. Lupinus nanus, Viscaria cardinalis, Nemophila in-
signis, Phlox Drummondii, Helichrysums, Collinsia bicolor, hardy
Nasturtiums, are a few I can think of as being excellent when well
managed. There are very many gardens where these can be used with
good effect, while, at the same time, there are other beds where Ger-
aniums, Verbenas, and plants of that class, can be utilised in a manner
that no other kind of plants can approach in effectiveness. There are
also beds which can be filled with that class of plants to which the
general name of carpet-bedding plants has been given. To cut up a
series of large beds into geometrical figures, and fill them with these
dwarf leaf-plants, is failing to abstract the greatest amount of beauty
compatible from such when compared with the glowing masses which
can be secured in most seasons from the same beds when filled with
flowering subjects. The same want of forethought is apparent when
small beds or narrow borders are planted with large-growing flowering
subjects, and the great multitude of dwarf leaf-plants totally neglected.
There is room for most styles o planting in the majority of gardens,
and he who studies the capabilities of the flower-beds and borders under
his charge, and makes use of that kind of plant best suited to his own
particular wants, will have and give most satisfaction in his arrange-
ments. There is a consideration to be borne in mind, however, which
alters somewhat the bias one may have in what is the best thing to do,
and that is the expressed wish of one's employer for certain kinds of
plants in certain beds or positions. It is of no use to work against
these conditions. The only mode of getting over the difficulty, should
it prove a difficulty, is to pay extra attention to have that particular
wish gratified to the fullest extent, and work the surroundings into
conformity with it. At the same time, there is no harm in expressing
one's own view, should it be very different from that of the owner.
Generally it is possible to get these more into the state which one

I879-] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 555

would consider best fitted to make the best of the whole, by a little
pleasant statement of the difference in the two cases. Then it should
be borne in mind that the arrangement proposed in opposition to one's
own may prove, when carefully carried out, to be a superior one to that
which we would like to substitute for it. Bearing these thoughts in
mind, and working from notes made during past seasons, no time
should now be lost in making arrangements for the incoming year.

R. P. B.

THE GARDENER'S PRIMER.

NO. VII.

Many opportunities will occur to the young gardener (his life will be
made up of opportunites) of studying the characteristics of Fruit-trees,
especially Apple and Pear trees, in different stages of growth, such as
their general habit, foliage and blossom, and their so-called fruits,
no two of which are alike in size, shape, colour, perfume, taste, time of
ripening, and length of time during which they will keep after they
have been gathered. When permission can be obtained, he should
examine specimens of Apples and Pears, and learn to make outline-
drawings of them, which is easily done by cutting through the centre
of the Apple or Pear with a sharp knife, and then placing the section of
the fruit on blotting-paper to absorb the moisture produced by the
juice, — then place it flat on a piece of white paper, and mark out with
pencil the outline of it, carefully showing the situation and length of
the stalk, and the formation of the calyx, or eye as it is called, and
jotting down its correct name.

It will be necessary for him to know the characteristics of a first-rate
fruit of its kind or class, — to learn to discriminate between a first-class
aromatic Pippin and the gaudy-faced Apple, not worth eating, or the
high-class melting Pear and its humbler brother some gritty baking
Pear, or the high-class Muscat of Alexandria Grape and its humbler
relative the Lady Downes seedling ; and having learnt so much, to
preserve that knowledge by not impairing his faculty of taste by the
unwise use of tobacco, or of strong, coarse, unwholesome, evilly-dis-
posed liquors.

He will do well to know that the periods of time during which
fruit-trees raised from seed require to mature their growth, so as to be
capable of producing fruit, vary considerably. For the Apple-tree,
from five to twelve or thirteen years ; for the Pear-tree, from twelve
to eighteen years; for the Plum and Cherry trees, four or five years;
for the Vine, three to four years ; for the Raspberry, about two years
are required ; for the Strawberry, if sown early, a short time is suffi-
cient— namely, the succeeding year.

The Apple-tree is liable to the attacks of a disease called canker

55G THE GARDENER. [Dec.

and the fungus called mildew — some varieties more than others;
and also of the following insects, which the gardener should learn
to identify — American blight (Aphis lanigera), Apple-weevil (An-
thonymus pomoram), purple Apple-weevil (Rhynchites Bacchue),

Apple saw-fly (Tenthredo testudinea), codling moth (Carpocapsa
pomonella), stem -boring weevil (Rhynchites alliaria), Apple-tree
mussel-scale (Aspidiotis conchiformis), caterpillar figure -of -8 moth
(Episema ca3ruleocephala), caterpillar of wood leopard-moth (Zen-
zera a^sculi), caterpillar winter moth (Hibernia brumata), cater-
pillar of goat moth (Cossus ligniperda), caterpillar of ermine Apple-
moth (Yponomenta malivorella). The Apricot is subject to diseases
called canker, death in the branches, and to attacks of mildew, and
of some of the following insects — Curculio tenebricosus (small de-
structive beetle), Tortrix Waeberiana (the larva of green colour with
red head, leaves in his track reddish-brown heaps on branches), and
Ditula angustiorana (greenish caterpillar.) The Plum-tree is subject
to canker and exudation of gum, and to attacks from Tortrix Waeberi-
ana and Tenthredo morio (saw - fly.) The Pear - tree is subject to
canker and to attacks from the following insects : Aspidiotis ostreae-
f ormis (scale), Aphis pyri mali, Curculio pyri, Luperus rufipes (red-footed
beetle), slugworm (the caterpillar of Selandria atra), and Astyages
hemerobiella. The Peach and Nectarine trees are subject to canker,
gum, and mildew, and to attacks from the following insects : greenfly,
red-spider, the caterpillar of Episema caeruleocephala, destroying the
leaves, Tortrix "Waeberiana, Tenthredo populi (poplar saw-fly), and
earwigs. The Cherry-tree is liable to gum and the following insects :
red-spider, Aphis cerasi (Cherry-tree louse), Tenthredo cerasi, and
Cossos ligniperda.

In the kitchen-garden will be found the herbs generally grown by
themselves, and the names of which the gardener will have very early
to learn in order correctly to serve, as it is called, " the kitchen "
with such of them as are from time to time daily required, and this
duty is generally one which devolves on the young gardener very
early after entering on his apprenticeship. A list of them and their
allies may be useful to him, and is here supplied : Angelica (Angelica
archangelica), Balm (Melissa officinalis), Basil, sweet (Ocymum basili-
cum), Basil, bush (Ocymum minimum), Borage (Borago officinalis),
Burnet (Poterium sanguisorba), Chamomile (Anthemis chamomilla),
Chervil (Chaerophyllum sativum), Chives (Allium schaenoprasum),
Fennel (Fceniculum vulgare), Garlic (Allium sativum), Hyssop (Hys-
sopus officinalis), Horehound (Marrubium vulgare), Horse - radish
(Cochlearia armoraica), Lavender (Lavandula vera), Marigold, pot
(Calendula officinalis), Marjoram, pot (Origanum onites), Marjoram,
sweet (Origanum marjorana), Mint (Mentha viridis), Peppermint
(Mentha piperita), Parsley (Petroselinum sativum), Pennyroyal (Men-
tha pulegium), Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), Rue (Ruta grave-

iS79-] THE GARDENER'S PRIMER. 557

olens), Sage (Salvia officinalis), Sage, purple (Salvia officinalis pur-
purea), Savory, winter (Satureia montana), Seakale (Crambe marit-
ima), Savory, summer (Satureia hortensis), Spearmint (Mentha virid-
is), Shallots (Allium ascolonicum), Southernwood (Artemisia arborea),
Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus), Thyme, common (Thymus vulgaris),
Thyme, lemon-scented (Thymus serpyllum citriodorus), Tree-Onion
(Allium proliferum), Wormwood (Artemisia vulgaris or absinthium).

As the kitchen-garden from time to time is prepared for the pro-
duction of the different kinds of vegetables, by properly trenching, man-
uring, and keeping the same free from weeds, he will have diligently to
observe and learn how to do the same, profitably, with regularity, and
with due regard to space of ground and the wants to be supplied from
it. He will find trenching the ground a very simple operation (the
writer has often found it so simple that there is no way of getting over
it except by steadily keeping at it till it is done), but very difficult to
explain in writing. At the commencement of the piece of ground to
be trenched, it is necessary to take out the first trench, of the breadth
of the piece of ground and of the width of the spade, dig out the soil
either one spit deep, called single trenching, or two spits deep, called
double trenching, bringing up the subsoil, place it in a wheelbarrow,
and take it to the termination of the piece of ground to be trenched,
where it is to be left ready to fill into the last trench, which would
otherwise be a hole ; the ground is then dug, trench after trench, throw-
ing the spits of soil into the trench which will be in front of the digger,
until the whole is trenched, and the last trench is then filled up with
the soil taken out of the first trench. There is another kind of trench-
ing often practised, called bastard-trenching, which is digging one spit
deep and taking out the loose crumbs (as the loose mould at the
bottom of the trench is called), and then filling the bottom of the
trenching with manure, covering it with soil from the next trench,
which in like manner is filled at the bottom with manure, and so on
every trench until the work is done — the taking out the first trench and
carrying it away to the end of the ground is the same as in other kinds
of trenching.

How to supply to the soil, by the application of what is called
manure, that which cropping has carried away or diminished, or which
the soil does not contain, and without which plants would not have
their proper food or nourishment, can only be properly understood by
a thorough knowledge of the different kinds of soils, and of their
deficiencies. Manure operates in two ways — either as direct food to
the plant, or indirectly, by altering and modifying the ingredients of
the soil. The best of all manure is farm-yard manure, since the salts
and mineral ingredients present in the food of animals have passed off
in the excreta. Chalk and lime will change the constitution of some
ingredients already in the soil by decomposing, inter alia, salts of iron,
rendering its oxide soluble. Common salt will decompose organic

558 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

matter and give rise to the formation of carbon dioxide (carbonic acid)
nitric acid, and ammonia, but its use too largely often caps (as it is ex-
pressively called) the ground, probably induced by killing that most
useful of God's creatures, the earthworm, and so terminating its
labours for the good of mankind.

The gardener will do well to avoid the use of the word stimulant as
inapplicable to what are called highly concentrated manures. No such
stimulant exists, nor does the structure of a plant apparently warrant
the application of the word. Such highly concentrated manures are
simply nourishment placed within the reach of the roots of the plant
at the time it was ready and willing to assimilate it.

He should learn to identify some of the commoner forms of fungus,
which he will often hear called cluster-cups, brand, mildew, smut,
mould, or blight, &c, such as rcestelia on the Pear leaf (Rcestelia
cancellata), Berberry cluster cups (iEcidium berberidis), Rose brand
(Aregma mucronatum, Lycthea rosae), Corn mildew (Puccinia graminis),
Hollyhock mildew (Puccinia malveacearum — common on Althaea offici-
nalis and Malva sylvestris), Rose rust (Phragmidium mucronatum),
white rust on cruciferous plants (Cystopus candidus), Potato mould
(Peronospora infestans), Pea mould (Peronospora viciae), Rose blight
(Sphaerotheca pannosa), Hop blight (Sphaerotheca castagnei), Pea blight
(Erysiphe Martii) Salsafy and Scorzonera blight (Erysiphe lampro-
carpa), Oidium fructigeum, concentric rings on Apples, Pears, Plums, &c.

Fungi are organisms endowed with life, with different modes of
reproduction — one being by spores or seeds, of which the atmosphere
appears to be always full, and to be the vehicle made use of for their
dispersion. Those belonging to the epiphytal class seem as numerous
as the phaenogamous plants, on which they are most frequently found,
almost to indicate that each living phaenogamous plant has its ap-
pointed guest in the shape of some fungus, without much restriction
as to soil, situation, or climate. As living organisms they fulfil some
beneficent object, and are apparently as much the object of the Creator's
skill as other works of His. Some of them appear on plants in a low
state of vitality in the autumn, assisting in the general changes then
going on, helping forward the work of decomposition, and preparing
the soil for new growths. Others induce chemical changes— others find
a dwelling-place in the tissues of living leaves, apparently healthy
leaves, but generally in the leaves of diseased, unhealthy, ill-grown,
over-fed plants rendered unhealthy by over-draughts of liquid-manure
supplied to them by him whose duty it was to have withheld it. Their
object seems to be by decomposing the tissues of plant-structure to
cause them to make way for other and more healthy organisms.

The gardener has not much to fear from their visits, many of them
are only barren states of other well-known fungi, which, as soon as
they appear, can be easily got rid of. The appearance of others is the
result of want of vigilance in purchasing, plants already infected, or

1879.] THE HALE FARM NURSERIES. 559

seeds saved from plants (Hollyhocks or Tomatoes, for instance), which
in their lifetime had been the hosts and entertainers of fungi, and
which will produce plants infected like their parents, or in growing
plants in a damp, unhealthy, draughty house, or in improperly opening
the front lights of the vinery during forcing-time, and so letting in the
spores of the mildew, most likely some state of Erysiphe communis,
formerly thought to be an Oidium, and then called Oidium Tuckeri, or
in planting Potatoes already infected with Peronospora infestans, or
in using farm-yard manure, in which Potato-bines (which had enter-
tained in their lifetime such guests as Peronospora infestans) have
been placed to rot, instead of burning them, or in growing Roses in a
draughty situation, or Peas in a dry shallow soil. Again, if chips of
wood find their way into the soil of the Vine-border, the spores of some
common fungus in the soil, not one of epiphytal kind, will soon find
out the chips of wood, and in the most systematic and beneficent way
will forthwith split up their tissues, and return their carbon to the
common stock ; but in so doing the fungus growth will not be very
particular to confine its growth to the chips, or to limit its duration of
life to the exact period of time required for their decomposition, but
will foliage about the border for other chips of wood on which to com-
plete its career, and in so doing will materially damage the Vine-roots.
It is no part of our object to explain the use of the spade, the scythe,
the besom or broom in sweeping a lawn — it will be sufficient to state
that unless learnt correctly, and that early in life, it will never be ac-
quired in later years. Laboee Vinces.

THE HALE FARM NURSERIES, TOTTENHAM.

Having a deep interest in herbaceous and Alpine plants, we embraced
the opportunity afforded by a short midsummer visit to London of
gratifying a long-cherished desire to spend a few hours in Mr Thomas
S. Ware's extensive and now celebrated establishment. It will, of
course, be easily imagined that it would take as many days as we had
hours at our disposal to do anything like justice to a collection which
requires nearly 30 acres for its accommodation. Thanks, however, to
the courtesy of Mr Perry, the intelligent manager, and to Mr Gifford,
one of his able assistants, we were enabled to make the very best use
of our limited time, and to take a few notes which, we trust, will prove
interesting to our fellow-readers of ' The Gardener.'

We were first conducted over the florist-flower department, where
enormous quantities of the leading varieties of plants usually classed
under this head are grown ; and some idea may be formed of the im-
portance of this branch of the business when we say that they occupy
about 6 acres of ground, and that to meet the demand it is necessary
to propagate annually something like 30,000 Carnations and Picotees

560 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

40,000 Pinks, 4000 Phloxes, 2000 Pyrethrums, 3000 Auriculas, and
many thousands of Dahlias, Pentstemons, Delphiniums, Antirrhinums,
etc., Arc. What are known as Herbaceous and Alpine plants, however,
form the chief feature of the nursery, and these cover an area of nearly
20 acres. Fully an acre of this section is devoted to the cultivation of
Herbaceous Paeonias, a class of plants which, considering their easy
culture and highly ornamental character, is far too little known. All
the really good and distinct sorts are here grown, not only for the
supply of nursery orders, but for their showy, variously-coloured, and
in many cases sweetly-scented flowers, which, in most seasons, are
produced in great profusion, and command a ready sale at good prices.
Among the other genera are to be found not only all the old favourites
worthy of cultivation, but most of those of recent introduction, the
more popular being grown in large numbers. These are cultivated in
beds, borders, rockeries, and pits, according to their several require-
ments ; while many thousands of the leading sorts are kept in pots, so
that they may be sent to customers with perfect safety, even in the
growing and flowering seasons. Among the more interesting and
showy of these we observed great numbers of Meconopsis nepalense, the
rare and beautiful Himalayan Poppy, with pale sulphur flowers and
large deeply-lobed leaves ; Veronica longifolia, var. sub-sessilis, a decid-
uous species recently introduced from Japan, with rich blue flowers
borne on spikes nearly 1 foot high and from 4 to 5 inches round j
Geum coccineum plenum, though by no means new, not yet very com-
mon, and one of the best of hardy border-plants, its double scarlet
blooms lasting a long time, and being available for the choicest bou-
quets ; Lychnis vespertina plena, white and red flowered sorts, showy,
and much valued in summer and autumn ; Sparaxis pulcherrimum,
with flowers varying from light rose to crimson and every shade of
purple, and its variety atro-purpurea, purplish crimson, both graceful,
free-flowered plants ; Senecio pulcher, a new and strikingly effective
species, producing its large purplish-crimson flowers, with a bright
golden disc in autumn ; a great variety of Asters, or Michaelmas
Daisies, including Townsendii, Sericeus, pyrenaica, and bessarabicus ;
Primulas, too, such as rosea, cashmeriana, denticulata, and cortusoides
amcena. The latter, in some twenty varieties, are grown by the thou-
sand, while all the choicer Alpine species are largely represented.
Hosts of other plants, which we cannot here enumerate, were seen in
more or less abundance all over the grounds.

The collection is rich in hardy Orchids, nearly one hundred distinct
species and varieties being cultivated in the beds specially set apart
for them. Such things as Cypripediums spectabilis, pubescens. acaule,
and macranthum; various sorts of Habenarias, Betia hyacinthina, Disa
grandiflora, Epipactis, in several species, with their varieties, most of
the Ophrys, Orchis, and many others, are grown in large numbers.
Though too late in the season to see these fine plants in flower, the

1879.] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. 561

decayed flower - stalks, still standing, bore ample testimony to the
magnificence of the display during the past spring and summer. We
also, unfortunately, missed the Trilliums, a genus of beautiful North
American plants, with white, purple, red, and greenish - coloured
flowers, which appear in April and May. Large clumps of more than
a dozen species of these were luxuriating in moist beds of peat soil.

The rockeries — constructed more with the view of supplying the
varied wants of the plants than for artistic effect, though that is by
no means awanting — contain a wealth, not only of the tiny Alpine
gems, but of the stronger-growing shrubs and perennials which prefer
such situations. Here are to be seen specimens of the dwarf Rhodo-
dendron chamogcistus, Rosa pyrenaica, pimpinelifolia, and rugosa, the
latter with large glossy pinnate foliage, and clusters of rosy-crimson and
white flowers, nearly three inches across, which are produced during
most of the summer, and are succeeded by an abundance of scarlet
berries as large as crab-apples. Scattered about in endless profusion
are to be seen patches and groups of such plants as Linnaea borealis,
interesting not only for its beauty, but as the plant selected by the
great father of Botany to bear his name ; Gentianas alpina verna and
angustifolia, with many of their congeners \ Opuntias — including Ra-
finesquiana, the hardiest species of this the only known hardy genus of
the Cactus family ; various species of Linaria, including alpina and
pilosa ; Campanulas pulla and pumila, with its white-flowered variety ;
Dianthus alpinus, the prettiest and dwarf est of its race, with many
other species of the same genus ; the showy and distinct Dryas octo-
petala, a British Alpine, associated with its Tyrolese variety lanata,
distinguished by its hoary leaves and larger flowers. The collection of
Helianthemums, or Rock Roses, of wThich the species vulgare, an in-
habitant of our rocky hillsides, is the type, is very complete. Sedums,
Saxifrages, Sempervivums, of every sort in cultivation, with a multi-
tude of other no less interesting things, which the limited time at our
disposal precluded us from noting. In and around the rockeries are a
number of little dells, in which are planted out collections of the rarer
Ferns, Sarracenias, sorts, Darlingtonia calif ornica, Dionseas, Parnassias
— of which we noticed a group of four distinct sorts — Droseras, Pin-
guiculas, Swertias, «fec, <fec, all in vigorous health.

The bulb department, which contains nearly, if not all, the hardy
genera and species in cultivation, will form the subject of a brief future
notice. Hugh Fraser.

THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN.

ARTICHOKES \ JERUSALEM AND GLOBE.

These are seldom or never seen in amateur's gardens, but why we do
not know, except it be that very few amateurs know anything about
them — and yet they are vegetables of easy cultivation, especially

562 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

Jerusalem Artichokes. They somewhat resemble Potatoes in shape,
and in the way they are produced, clustering round the bottom of the
stems. They will grow in almost any soil, but are, of course, finer in
deep, rich, well-cultivated soil. Whole tubers (small ones) are planted
in March, or earlier, in rows 3 feet apart and lh foot or so in the
row, and about 4 inches deep. All the cultivation they need further
simply consists in keeping the ground clear of weeds and well hoed.
They are ready for use by autumn, and may be taken up and stored in
cellars like Carrots or Parsnips, or in pits like Potatoes ; but they are
very often left all winter where they have been grown, as it is considered
they deteriorate by storing. They will form a very pleasing substitute
for, and add variety to, ordinary roots that are used as vegetables dur-
ing the winter months.

Globe Artichokes require different treatment, and it is not the root
which is used in this case, but the somewhat thistle-like top. Light
soil gives the least trouble in the cultivation of this vegetable : on
heavy wet soils it is sometimes difficult to winter. It thrives splen-
didly on deep, rich, peaty soils ; and in any case it is necessary, in pre-
paring the soil for Globe Artichokes, to select a well-drained spot, to
trench deeply and manure liberally, in order to secure first-class results.
This should be done in autumn or winter, and in March the surface
should be well broken with the fork, and a dressing of thoroughly
decomposed manure mixed with the surface soil unless it is naturally
rich. It is a good plan to plant as the digging proceeds ; and young
plants should be planted in rows 3 feet apart and 3 feet in the rows,
putting in the plants of the second row alternate with the first, and so
on. They are often enough planted in rows 4 feet apart and 4 feet in
the rows, in patches of threes, triangle fashion. Either plan will do.
The young plants are got growing round the stools of old plantations,
and they should be carefully lifted with a fork, so as to secure roots
to each plant, as they grow very much better when good roots are
attached than when pulled out carelessly and the roots left behind.
Should the spring be a dry one, a good watering will be of service ;
and if a dry summer ensues, a mulching of rich manure and copious
supplies of weak sewage or cow-house drainings, well diluted with
water, will prove of immense service. March or April is the best time
to plant them. Of course they require to be kept free of weeds. Spring-
planted ones throw up their heads later than established plantations,
and so form a succession. For this reason it is desirable that a few,
according to the wants of the household, be planted every spring, and
a corresponding portion destroyed, especially as they cease to throw up
so good heads after a year or two as young plantations do, more especi-
ally when they are neglected. As winter approaches — say about the
beginning of November, or sooner, should severe weather set in early —
the plants will require to get a little protection by placing dry litter
firmly round their collars, but leaving all healthy leaves sticking out at

1879.] HARDY FRUITS. 563

the top, so as not to rot out the centres of the plants. This should be
removed in spring, and a dressing of manure given and forked into
the surface in March or April, according to the forwardness of the
season. Where mulching is not necessary, crops of early Turnips,
Lettuce, and other salads which reach perfection rapidly, may be sown
between the rows of new plantations for the purpose of economising
the ground. A Gardener.

HARDY FRUITS— DECEMBER.

Fruit- trees ought now to be all planted, mulched over their roots, and
safe for the winter, and stakes placed to keep them secure from wind.
Former hints as to draining, trenching, and surface-dressing must
not be neglected where a fair return from the trees is expected.
Nothing is more tormenting in a garden than fruit-trees, which have
arrived at maturity, suddenly showing signs of canker and decay.
This can, in the majority of cases, be prevented by keeping the roots
clear of poisonous wet soil, and encouraging them to root upwards to
sun and air. Old trees may be greatly improved by clearing off the
unhealthy surfaces down to the roots, placing healthy loam and rotten
manure, well mixed, over the surface. The stems of the trees should
be kept clear of moss and other destructive parasites. Suckers should
have no existence. Scale and American bug should have prompt
measures. Thoroughly wash with soft-soap water at 120°, and paint
with Gishurst Compound, soot, and cow -manure made into paste.
All the soil should be removed from under such trees, and fresh loam
from a distance, where no fruit-trees are growing, used. Dustings of
soot, lime, and sulphur may be applied several times during the winter.
Where caterpillars and other vermin have been troublesome among
Gooseberries and Currants, the same measures (to prevent their
depredations next season) ought to be adopted as with other fruit-
trees. A painting of soot, lime, and cow-manure may be applied to
branches of fruit bushes, to prevent birds from devouring the fruit-
buds : this is, of course, applied after pruning has been performed.
The pruning of all trees except Peaches and Nectarines maybe done when
there is no frost. Cutting the wood during frost may produce canker and
other evils. Apples to be kept, such as Dwarf Standards (either bushes
or pyramids), may be freely thinned out, leaving the leading branches
clothed with spurs, regulating the distance between each — the more
equidistant the better. Orchard-trees ought not to become tangled
thickets, which bear only on the outside points. It is better to thin
out the larger branches, keeping the centres open. Large branches
should not be cut, unless such an operation cannot be dispensed with.
The same applies to Pears and Plums. Cherries do best when spurred,
but they are apt to canker when root-action is bad, or when gross

564 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

growth is made during the summer, and not ripened in autumn.
Trench and manure soil which is to be planted with Strawberries in
spring. Mulch Raspberries heavily ; they like rich cool soil. Prune
them, leaving four or five of the best canes, which can be tied to
wires or stakes fixed lightly every four to six feet apart. Bending
them over and forming arches is a good system where stakes are difficult
to procure ; they are then easily netted. If frosty weather should set
in, the pruning and tying of trees may be left till weather is more suit-
able. See that no ties cut the bark : leave plenty of space to swell.

M. T.

ON HELLEBORES.

Considerable interest — more, perhaps, than their intrinsic beauty
warrants — attaches to Christmas Roses. This is, no doubt, owing
largely to the fact that some of them, especially the Christmas Rose
proper, blooms at a time when little else in the shape of flowers is to
be met with out of doors to rival or compete with it in an estimate of
its decorative qualities. They are all, however, very interesting plants,
with very distinctive and characteristic features. The structure of the
flowers is a study in itself — a consideration of which reveals the
fact that the petals are the least conspicuous parts, and contribute
little or nothing to the effective qualities of the plant in an orna-
mental sense. There are eight or ten small tubular bodies arranged on
the inner base of the five large, green, white, or coloured sepals, which
appear to be the real petals, but are not. In the true Christmas Rose,
which has the largest flowers of any species known in gardens, this
peculiarity is very marked ; but in all the other species, the same
tubular structure of the petals obtains as an unfailing characteristic,
and is accompanied also by a nectariferous gland at the base of the
tube.

The true Christmas Rose is the most ornamental of the genus, in so
far as the object depends on the flowers solely ; and in the present time,
when fashion demands such large and continuous supplies of cut flowers,
and of flowering plants in pots during the winter months, this humble
but beautiful plant is a valuable auxiliary, more especially where
forcing facilities are limited. The plant may be lifted from the open
ground for indoor decoration any time before the flowers expand, and
placed under cover of a hand-glass or cold frame to protect the blooms
from the damaging effects of the weather. When treated in this way,
or when grown in pots purposely, and protected from wet and frost
and snow, flowers of great purity and large size are obtained ; and the
large pure white petals, or rather sepals, being persistent, are particu-
larly valuable as cut flowers. There are several varieties of the true
Christmas Rose, the best of which is the one known as Helleborus

1879] CLERODENDRON FRAGRANS. 565

niger maximus. It is earlier, and the flowers and foliage are larger
than they are in any of the other forms. I met with another form
in Edinburgh last winter, which is quite distinct from any other in
its habit and in its time of flowering — being just coming to its best
when the other growing close beside it was far advanced in the process
of becoming green and seedy. This is an acquisition, because it ex-
tends the period in which this popular flower may be enjoyed.

One of the valuable ornamental qualities of Hellebores is their being
evergreen. Some of them, but especially H. fcetidus and H. arguti-
folius may be characterised as remarkably striking and handsome-
foliaged plants, which may be made to contribute something towards
the decoration of the garden in the winter months. They are very
suitable for the margins of shrubberies, and for imparting evergreen
furnishing to rockwork where there is sufficient depth of soil to sus-
tain them. Among the more ornamental-flowered species may be men-
tioned, besides H. niger the true Christmas Rose, H. atro-rubens, having
large dark purple flowers ; H. colchicus, with considerable panicles of
large purple-red flowers ; and H. olympicus, a creamy or greenish-
white species — very floriferous and ornamental.

W. S.

CLERODENDRON FRAGRANS.

This lovely plant is not so much grown as it deserves to be for autumn
and early winter flowering ; its double white sweet-scented flowers are
very valuable during the time named, and are useful for a variety of
purposes, and much sought after by lovers of fragrant flowers. For
room decoration it is invaluable ; and nice plants can be grown in
4-inch pots, suitable for small vases, containing from two to four heads
of bloom. When well grown, it can be kept within reasonable bounds
in the size of pot named. Small specimens can be produced not more
than 8 and 9 inches high, which, with its bold foliage, renders it a
striking object. Of course larger specimens can be produced if the
cultivator thinks it necessary. Their size entirely depends upon the
time the plants are propagated, or if old plants are grown on from the
commencement of the year. This plant can be bloomed with impunity
two or three times in the season ; but this with small plants is not
advisable, especially when preparing them for winter work. There is
too frequently a great mistake made in growing this Clerodendron in
the stove amongst a collection of plants. In this position it soon be-
comes tall and naked, and too often the picture of ill-health, as well as
a prey to all insects that infest plants.

The plants are propagated any time from April to the beginning of
June from cuttings, which strike very freely if accommodated for a
short time in the propagating-house or under the shade of Melons, &c.

566 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

After being rooted it should gradually be moved to cooler quarters.
"We have not yet tried it in cool pits during the summer, but in favour-
able years we believe it would do for a short time during the hottest
part of the season. Stopping must be attended to, according to the
time the cuttings are rooted and the progress the plants make after-
wards : the earliest-rooted plants can be stopped two or three times ;
others, if only stopped once, generally throw two or more shoots, which
produce as many heads of bloom. The last-rooted ones, if not pinched
at all, are by no means to be despised if they only carry one head of
flower and fine foliage down to the pot. This plant is in no way par-
ticular as to soil, but when in small pots should have a rich compost
consisting of good loam and a seventh of manure, and sufficient coarse
sand to keep the soil open. It is advisable to feed the plants liberally
with liquid manure after the blooms commence to show : an occasional
application of soot-water imparts to the foliage a fine dark blue, and
assists the plants materially.

The old but useful Clerodendron fallax can be treated in a similar
way, or raised from seed, and will produce a fine show of scarlet at this
season of the year. W. B.

LESSONS FROM THE LONDON PARKS.

These parks have so often been described as to render it unnecessary for me
to attempt a description of them. Instead of this I propose to enumerate some
of what I considered the most "taking" arrangements, effective plants used,
&c, in the hope that my remarks may prove of service to some of your readers
who have not had an opportunity of visiting these parks this season.

Although my remarks will be confined principally to "good bits," it must
not be imagined that there were no failures, for failures there were here as else-
where, and they are perhaps equally as instructive as successes. Of course,
where innumerable tastes have to be met, and the fashion, as it were, to be
set, experiments must be tried that sometimes end in failure.

I will commence with what I conceive to be a very palpable mistake — viz. ,
the extreme dulness of many of the large subtropical beds. Cannas, Ricinus,
Giant Hemp, Polymnia grandis, Tobacco-plants, Funkias, &c, are very effec-
tive associated with other brighter foliage-plants, but when grouped without
the latter (I am thinking now more especially of a very large bed in Hyde
Park), the surroundings being of the same hue, they are certainly very unat-
tractive. During hot and dry seasons, when their growth is more luxuriant
and the turf sun-scorched, their effect may be somewhat better; but even then
a few of such plants as Solanum marginatum, Arundo donax variegata,
variegated Maize, Abutilon Thompsonii, and an improvement on the latter
useful variety, Abutilon Darwinii tessellatum, Phormium tenax variegatum,
&c, mixed in, would brighten them up. A useful plant seldom seen in the
parks — viz., the variegated Coltsfoot (Tussilago farfara variegata)— ought to
be more used for the margins of large subtropical beds, &c. Funkias are
largely used for this purpose, but are much too green. Gardeners, where
they have the power to do so, would do well to imitate the arrangements

1879.] LESSONS FROM THE LONDON PARKS. 567

of the beds themselves in the parks. They are not arranged in one or
two large and fanciful designs, but are distributed throughout the grounds
in some instances, and in others near the principal walks and roadways.
The beds, too, are large and plain, and as a consequence are much more
easily and effectively planted. By this mode of arranging the beds a much
greater variety of plants can be used, every variety of style imitated, or a
new one attempted without endangering the general appearance ; and added
to this, the interest is sustained throughout, and not a flash and all over, as is
the case where the beds are concentrated. Carpet-bedding, in spite of the
pi-ognostics of adverse critics, is still in the ascendant, and is, with the fre-
quenters of the parks, the most popular form of planting. A few well-done
carpet-beds in private places are equally as certain to be the most admired, and
for this reason should be attempted, however objectionable the style of plant-
ing may be to the operator. Many of the plants used are quite hardy, often-
times to be found in the old herbaceous borders, &c. Alternantheras, largely
used in the carpet-beds, have grown but little this season ; but they still an-
swered their purpose, as they were planted thickly and kept their colour well.
Green-foliaged plants are not so much used as they were, and opinions vary as
to the best variety. Herniaria saxatile is preferred by Mr Graham at
Hampton Court (a good authority), but the Mentha pulegium gibraltaricum is
the most generally used, and is, I think, the most pleasing green ; but the for-
mer is the less troublesome after being planted. Succulents are largely used in
various ways, and are very effective, especially as single specimens worked into
the circles, &c, of the designs. At Battersea Park, Sempervivum tabukeforme
was used for clothing the sides of some sunken beds. These beds, although
well planted, and, I believe, original, were not so attractive as were many of the
beds planted in other styles in the same park. The surfaces of some were per-
fectly fiat, and are, I suppose, most strictly speaking, carpet-beds ; but I am
inclined to give the preference to those designs which included specimen plants
of Aloe filifera nana, Dasylirion acrotrichum, Agave americana, Bonapartea
gracilis semilifolia, Chamsepeuce diacantha, Chamsepeuce Cassabonse, a great
variety of succulents, &c. The season was much against the subtropical
plants at Battersea, the hailstorm of 2d August being very damaging. Cannas,
Ricinus, &c. , were much smaller than usual, the few notable exceptions being
the Polymnia grandis, Solanum macrophyllum, Aralia papyrifera, and Grevillea
robusta. A number of the latter dotted among well-coloured plants of the
variegated Vine (Vetis heterophylla variegata) were very effective. Grevillea
robusta is easily raised from seed, and, if plunged in pots where required, comes
in admirably afterwards for winter decoration of conservatories, &c. A few
plants of Nilanthus grandulosus disposed at intervals among Cannas, &c,
showed with good effect ; and some of the hardy Aralias are well adapted for
the subtropical garden. One of the most effective beds was filled in the
centre with a dark-leaved Canna, surrounded with Abutilon Darwinii tessell-
atum, alternating with Amaranthus melancholicus ruber, and edged with Dac-
tylis glomerata mixed with a blue Lobelia. Large numbers of Palms and other
foliaged plants were, as usual, grouped and plunged about Battersea Park — the
most conspicuous being Pritchardia pacifica, Cycas revoluta, Areca sapida,
Dicksonia antarctica, Pothos acaulis, Seaforthia elegans, Pandanus utilis,
Latania borbonica, Phoenix dactylifera, &c. Mr Rogers, the able superinten-
dent, also uses a number of flowering plants in mixed beds, &c, which is a step
in the right direction, as they are much admired and are enlivening. Large
flowering Begonias were scarcely so good as usual, neither were the Fuchsias

563 THE GARDENER. [Dfx.

looking well. Tigridia grandiflora was very showy ; some Kalosanthes also had
been very bright. A bank of Clematis .lackmannii was very fine, and numbers
of the neat -growing and free -blooming Yucca flaccida were to be seen in
groups.

I cannot understand why Dahlias are not more used in the parks, as they
would brighten up many a dull place. The bedding varieties are largely used
in the Crystal Palace grouuds ; and very effective they are, the present season
appearing to suit them. At Hyde Park more of the commoner bedding-plants,
such as Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, &c. , are used. Most of the beds are
inside the rails following the road known as Park Lane. Some of the
arrangements were very good, but there was a great sameness about them,
many being banded and edged with the same varieties. This may be cor-
rect planting, but is very uninteresting nevertheless. Mixed centres were
the most effective — notably those containing Calceolaria amplexicaulis and
Ageratum americanum, Viola Golden Gem and Iresine Lindenii, Pelar-
gonium Ariosta and Viola Bluebell, mixed Lantanas, &c. Good Pelargo-
niums used were Mrs Miles, good pink ; Mrs Turner, deep pink ; and John
Gibson, very fine scarlet, — all excellent bedders. Lobelia Owen, a peuce-
coloured variety, was particularly good and distinct ; and the Mazarine Gem,
a deep blue, with large white eye, was very conspicuous. The carpet-beds
were fewer in number, but were remarkably well done. Sedum acre elegans,
creamy variegated ; Antennaria tomentosa, silvery white ; Sedum lividum,
green, — were all effectively used in the carpet-beds, and are quite hardy. A
great variety of succulents were used. Some of the subtropical plants in
tubs and pots in different parts of the park are grand specimens ; more
especially the plants of Latania borbonica, Seaforthia elegans, and Chamserops
excelsa. Musa ensete was very effective wherever used — i.e., either as single
specimens or in groups. Erythrina crista-galli, as grown and bedded out at
Hyde Park, is very fine and attractive. Victoria and Regent's Parks were again
very creditably planted ; one of the attractions of the former being a long
well-arranged herbaceous border. Although Hampton Court is not, strictly
speaking, a London park, it is still much frequented by Londoners, especially
since it has become famous for its flower-beds, in addition to the oft-described
monster Vine. In spite of the adverse season, the beds — the carpet-bed es-
pecially— were very bright and attractive. To keep off the crowds from the
carpet-beds on some occasions, it was found necessary to put up stakes and
cords ; and Mr Graham, the very practical superintendent, has also had canvas
covers made for them ; and by a judicious use of these their beauty is pro-
longed long after the breaking up of the other beds and distribution of their
occupants among the working classes. Mr Graham's ' Guide to the Gardens,
&c.,' which he annually issues, is extremely useful to visitors generalty, and
to gardeners and amateurs in particular— as, in addition to the key to the
bedding arrangements, it contains several excellent diagrams of carpet-beds
and how to plant them ; lists of plants suitable for the various modes of
summer bedding and how to propagate them, &c. The house room at his
command is very limited ; to all appearances quite inadequate to " turn out "
the 195,000 plants used. As before stated, the carpet-beds were remarkably
well done, the designs being very artistic and original, and without diagrams
indescribable. A great variety of plants were used, many of them being
hardy — notably several varieties of Stonecrops, Veronica, Incana, Pyrethrum,
Mentha, Herniaria saxatile, Antennaria tomentosa, Sempervivums, &c.
Mixed centres were in the ascendant among the other beds, and they cer-

1879.] CIRCULATION OF WATER IN PIPES. 569

tainly were very effective. Another good feature in these beds was the un-
usually broad edgings of some, and the "inner edgings" of other beds.
Several good arrangements consisted as follows : centre, Mrs Pollock Pelar-
gonium, mixed with Viola Tory (a good purple), and broadly edged with
Coleus Verschaffeltii ; centre, a mixture of Pelargonium Crystal Palace Gem
and Viola Blue Perfection, broadly banded with Iresine Lindenii, edged with
Euonymus radicans variegatus ; centre, Pelargonium Eijou and Dactylis glo-
merata, broadly banded with Iresine Lindenii, edged with Stellaria graminea
aurea ; centre, Pelargonium Lucius, banded with two rows Abutilon vexilla-
rium variegata, edged with Alyssum saxatile variegata ; centre, a mixture of
Pelargonium Crystal Palace Gem and Viola Blue Perfection, banded by
Iresine Herbstii, edged with Symphoricarpus montana variegata ; centre, a
mixture of Pelargonium Bijou and Viola Favourite, broadly edged with
Coleus Verschaffeltii. The best bronze Zonal Pelargonium used was Black
Douglas, and Dr Denny's Commander-in-Chief was pointed out as being the
best and most enduring scarlet-flowering variety. "W. Iggulden.

CIRCULATION OF WATER IN PIPES.

The best way of making this subject clear is probably to resort to
facts which have been ascertained by experiment. The sole force
which operates to produce motion in the water is the force of gravity.
This force operates most strongly on bodies which are called the
heaviest, and by so operating it may even cause lighter bodies to rise.
Thus the light weight in the scale of a balance rises, because the
heavier weight in the other scale is more strongly acted upon by the
force of gravity. A cork rises from the bottom to the top of water
because a corresponding bulk of water is heavier — that is, is more
strongly acted upon by the force of gravity than the cork. Both cork
and water are pulled downwards, but the water (that fills the same
bulk) is pulled more strongly, and therefore the pull upon the water
overcomes the pull upon the cork — the water sinks, and the cork rises.
In precisely the same way if a portion of water is more dense — that is,
heavier than another portion — it will be pulled down, and the lighter
portions will be forced up by the heavier taking its place. Now, as
heat causes water to expand, or to become less dense, a given bulk of
cold water is heavier than the same bulk of warm water ; the cold
water is therefore pulled down, and forces the hot to rise. It is im-
portant to understand this, because people are apt to speak incorrectly
of heat causing water to rise. It does nothing of the sort. From 32°
to 39°. 2 the action of heat causes water to contract, or to become
heavier, and, therefore, if a portion of water is warmed to any degree
below 39°. 2, it will sink instead of rising in the midst of water — that
is, if a lower temperature. Above 39.2°, however, heat causes water
to expand or become lighter, and then it will rise, because the colder
and heavier water falls lowest and forces it up.

2 Q

570

THE GARDENER.

[Dec.

The amount of expansion in water corresponds inversely with the
weight of equal bulk or the specific gravity, and it has been very care-
fully measured by men of science. The following table gives the
mean results obtained by the latest observations. I have thought it
sufficient to set down the figures for increments of 18°, which corre-
sponds to 10° C.* :--

Temp.
Fahr.

32°
(39°
60°
68°
86c
104c

2)

Vol. of water

(at32° = l.)

1.000000

.999871

1.000124

1.001615

1.004123

1.00757

Sp. gr. of water

Temp.

(at32° = l.)

Fahr.

1.000000

122°

1.000129

140°

.999876

158°

.998388

176°

.995894

194°

.99248

212°

Vol. of water
(at 32° = 1.)

1.01181

1.01677
1.02243
1.02874
1.03554
1.04300

3p. gr. of water
(at 32° = 1 )

.98833
.98351

.97807
.97206
.96568
.95878

It will be seen from this table that water does not expand in equal
proportion for different increments of heat. Thus from 50° to 68° it
expands about 15 parts in 10,000, from 122° to 140° it expands about
50 parts in 10,000, and from 176° to 194° it expands about 78 parts in
10,000. This fact will be found to have some importance in consider-
ing questions of circulation in pipes.

In dealing with the effect of gravity on water, it must be kept in
mind that we have to consider only the height and not the bulk in
other directions. This is a law of hydrostatics, a familiar example of
which is that water will stand at exactly the same height in a small
pipe communicating with a big barrel as it does in the barrel itself
when it is of the same temperature in both. But, 1st, if the pipe
communicates with the barrel only at its bottom, and we heat the
water in one but not in the other, the level of the hot water will stand
a little higher than that of the cold, because it takes a greater height
of the hot water to balance the denser and heavier cold water. And,
2d, if the pipe communicates with the barrel both at bottom and top,
and we heat the water in the barrel or the pipe, but not in both, a cir-
culation will be set up, because now the water in both stands at the
same level, but the column of cold water is heavier than the column
of hot ; the cold is, therefore, carried down by the superior force of
gravity, and compels the hot to rise. The amount of force exercised
appears from the table given above. Thus if the water be 3 feet deep,
and its temperature in the pipe be 50°, and in the barrel 194°, then the
weight of the water in the pipe is 3 X. 999876 = 2.999628 (in grains,
ounces, or any other denomination), while the weight of a correspond-
ing column in the barrel is, in the same denomination, 3 X. 96568 =
2.89704. Hence if the water in the pipe weighs 2.9 oz., the corre-
sponding amount of water in the barrel weighs about 2.8 oz., and

* Fuller tables may be found in any of the treatises on heat.

1879.] CIRCULATION OF WATER IN PIPES. 571

necessarily the 2.9 oz. goes down and the 2.8 oz. goes up. When the
water has been so far transfused as to have become of the same tem-
perature throughout, the motion necessarily ceases, because it is all of
equal weight.

Therefore the way to ascertain whether water will circulate in a
given arrangement of boilers and pipes, is to take the weight of all
which we wish to ascend, and the weight of all which we wish to de-
scend, and to ascertain if the weight of the latter exceeds that of the
former. If it does, the circulation will be as we wish ; if the opposite
is the case, the circulation will be reversed ; and if the weights are
equal, there will be no circulation at all. We get the relative weights
by multiplying the specific gravity of each portion by the perpendicu-
lar weight of that portion, and we get the specific gravity from the
temperature. It is not quite exact to take the mean temperature of
each portion, but the errors nearly balance themselves, and may be
disregarded. We need pay no attention to the portions which are
on a level ; and in portions which are sloping we take only the
perpendicular height. Thus, if we suppose the subjoined figure to

represent the section of a system of pipes, a being the boiler, b the
" flow," and m the " return," then we intend the water to ascend in
the portions a, b, d, h, and m, and to descend in / and k. Now if we
suppose the height of each of these portions to be that set against it in
the following table (the height of the slope d being reckoned only as
the perpendicular dotted line d')f and if we calculate from the length
of the level portions that the water will gradually cool down to the
mean temperature set against each, then by multiplying the mean
temperature by its corresponding height, we get the relative weight
stated in the fourth column.

572

THE GARDENER.

[Dec.

Pipes
Ascending.

Height.

Temp.

Sj>. Gr.

Weight.

Total weight
Ascending.

a
b
d

m

Descending.

/
h

3
6

4

6
12

J 194°

176°
122'

86°

158°
104°

.96568

.97206
.98833
.99589

.97807
.99248

4.82810

2.91608
5.92998
3.98356

17.65812

5.86842
11.90976

Total weight
Descending.

17.77818

Excess of weight of descending water,

.12006

Here, then, we see that there is a clear turn of the balance in favour
of the descending water, and therefore, under the conditions proposed,
there will be a circulation, in spite of the dips at g and I. But now,
if we suppose the boiler raised to the level of c, we shall have no b pipe
at all, but only the height of the boiler 2 feet, while m will be 10 feet
instead of 4 : the result will be that the weight of the ascending
water would be 20.73646, which would be more than the weight of the
descending water, and consequently there would be no circulation. It
would, indeed, commence, but by the time the heated water reached/,
an equilibrium would be established, and there would be no motive
power to force it in either direction. If, again, the boiler were sup-
posed to remain, as shown on the diagram, but without any rise at d,
then the height of k would be only 9 feet, and yet the water would
still circulate, if the temperatures were as stated in the last table ; but
if the range of pipes were shortened so as to make the temperature of
the water at k 140° instead of 104°, the circulation would cease, for
calculation would then show that the water intended to ascend would
weigh 14.74194, while that intended to descend would be only
14.72001. In short, if in any arrangement we obtain the tempera-
tures and the heights of the several ascents and descents, we can
calculate to a certainty whether the water will circulate or not.

A few words may now, in conclusion, be said on some questions that
have been raised in the controversy.

1st. Water is an exceedingly bad conductor of heat ; but this must
be understood of it strictly when not in motion. When at liberty to
move, its particles become, by what is called convection — i.e., by suc-
cessive contact — capable of very rapidly transmitting heat.

2d. The rapidity of circulation cannot be reduced to any useful rule,
because it is so greatly affected by friction, and still more by alteration
of direction, in bends of the pipes.

3d. Water in a pipe that leaves the boiler perpendicularly cannot
have any back currents, but if the pipe leaves the boiler horizontally,

i879-] THE BRAYTON VINE SPORT. 573

there may at first be a back current. It will, however, in most cases
quickly disappear, because the opposing currents will cause a certain
amount of mixture, and then the much colder water in the return-pipe
will force the whole water in the flow-pipe to advance. Any incon-
venience from the water in the bottom of the pipe being colder than
the top may be obviated by inserting a short piece of sheet-iron, twisted
to half a turn of a spiral, which will reverse the top and bottom water
as it passes, and so compel it to mingle.

4th. There may, in certain cases, be a distinct advantage in the pro-
posal made (originally, I think, by Mr Connell) to carry the flow-pipe
as soon as possible to the summit level. This arises from the incre-
ments of expansion being greatest at the higher degrees of heat, and
may be tested by calculations in different circumstances.

5th. Care must always be taken to have no lodgment of air in any
part of the pipes, else the most certain circulation may be checked or
stopped. Probably this was the cause of failure of J. S. W.'s appara-
tus, for in small-bore pipes a bubble of air often fills the pipe like
a plug, and, owing to capillary attraction, resists even considerable
pressure to move it. J. B. K.

fTHE BRAYTON VINE SPORT.

Reference has more than once been made in ' The Gardener ' to a
Trebbiano Vine at Brayton Hall, Cumberland, which has for several
years borne some bunches of grapes, the berries of which have been of
extraordinary size for that, or indeed, any other variety. The other
bunches on the same Vine have not exceeded in size of berry what
Trebbiano usually grows to when well managed. When visiting
Brayton this autumn I saw one bunch on this Trebbiano Vine that I
certainly would never have taken for that Grape. On inspecting this
bunch closely, I could think of no Grape it so much resembled in size
and shape of berry as Golden Champion. The berries were immense ;
some of them I measured by applying a pair of compasses, and found
them if inch in diameter, and, of course, something more in length.
The berries in many cases showed a tendency to spot and crack just
as Golden Champion frequently does. The Vine is growing on its
own roots, and has never been grafted with Golden Champion or
any other Grape, so that "gemmules" could not get into it in that
way. This sport seems to be more persistent at Brayton than at
Culford, inasmuch as it has appeared for several successive years at
the former, while, so far as I know, it has not appeared a second time
at the latter place. It also protested against being sent from Culford
to Tweed Vineyard. Traveller.

574 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

FRUIT-CULTURE.

I think I may answer the questions put to me by " Learner," and also
make a few concluding remarks upon the merits of the subject lately
under discussion between myself and J. S. W. together, as both are a
part of the same subject. With regard to "Learner's" question, I
may be allowed to state that I desire to be courteous even to a
" masked junior ; " and while I congratulate my young friend upon his
shrewdness and subtlety, I also hope to be able to satisfy his "curiosity "
upon the point he has raised. Let me, however, remind " Learner "
that there is such a thing as "setting a sprat to catch a mackerel,"
and that in doing so there is just the possibility of losing both.

" Learner " wishes to know why, after I say the produce from a 5-inch
pot is equal in all respects to that of a 6-inch pot, I go on to state that
for " all round work " nothing surpasses the 6-inch size. The answer
is simple. It is because there is hardly one place in twenty where
labour is over-plentiful, and, of course, the 6-inch pots do not require
the same amount of watering as the 5-inch, for obvious reasons. I
shall be surprised if it is proved that I enumerated Sir Charles
Napier in the list of those varieties that I have forced in 5-inch pots.
If so, it has been an oversight, as I have invariably found that only
those varieties that will bear hard forcing will succeed well in small
pots, and my memory must be treacherous if I included Sir Charles
Napier in the number.

I have next to express my surprise that the discussion on " Fruit-
Culture " between J. S. W. and myself should have collapsed so sud-
denly after my last paper in ' The Gardener ; for September. I hope
the idea of my sending out a "seedling" Strawberry for which
J. S. W. stood horticultural sponsor at Leeds has not frightened him
:out of the field. W. Hinds.

[This controversy may now be discontinued. — Ed.]

ORCHARD-HOUSE FRUIT-CULTURE.

I shall feel obliged if some of your correspondents who are able and
willing should give their experience on the culture of Peaches, Pears,
Apples, <fcc, in pots under glass. Several gentlemen have made in-
quiries at me about this, and being myself unable to give an answer, it
has occurred to me to ask for information through your columns. One
gentleman asks if it would be advisable, and likely to prove satisfac-
tory, to erect an orchard-house, without any artificial heat whatever,

1879.] SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. 5,5

for Pears, Apples, Plums, and the ordinary outdoor fruits 1 I under-
stand he proposes to grow them in pots, but it might be well to con-
sider whether that or planting them in the soil would be the better
course. Another gentleman suggests that the best form of an orchard-
house might be discussed. He himself inclines to the idea of having
a semi-span house running east and west, but the back wall, as it were,
to be entirely of glass. Some doubts are expressed about the advisa-
bility of having wide houses 20 feet and upwards, for fear that those
trees placed in the middle of the house may be too far from the glass,
and the fruit not get properly ripened. Is there anything in this 1

Probably in consequence of the late unfavourable season, the interest
in fruit-culture under glass seems at the present time to be spreading ;
and as I am sure some of your numerous and able correspondents can
throw much light on the subject, I hope you will give this a corner in
your next issue. A. D. Makenzie.

2 Grove Terrace,
Edinburgh, November 8, 1879.

[A very interesting and important subject, and we shall be glad to have the
experience of our correspondents. — Ed.]

SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The monthly meeting was held in the hall, 5 St Andrew's Square, Edinburgh,
on Tuesday evening, the 4th ult. — Mr Dunn presiding. Twelve new members
were admitted, and the names of six others were given iu for admission at
next meeting. Mr L. S. Dow read a paper on the "Cultivation of Roses in
Pots," dealing chiefly with Hybrid perpetual sorts, and describing the treat-
ment he had adopted to obtain specimens measuring 4 feet in diameter, and
bearing from 60 to 100 blooms. The chief features of this consisted of careful
potting in good loam, enriched with well-rotted cow-manure, efficient drain-
age, and liberal supplies of liquid manure while the plants were in active
growth. The plants were placed in a sunny exposure out of doors in summer,
and when introduced into the forcing-house for early blooming, heat should
be very gradually applied. Great vigilance should at all times be exercised in
looking after insects, particularly aphis, to the attacks of which the Rose was
particularly liable ; and mildew, another of its deadliest enemies, but which he
had found readily to yield to sulphur, if applied immediately after its appear-
ance. He concluded by recommending all who had the opportunity, to get a
Rose-house, and hoped soon to see more attention paid to the culture of Roses
in pots. Mr Hugh Fraser next read a paper on "Cape Heaths." After
dwelling at some length upon the decorative qualities of these plants, and
pointing out that, by a judicious selection of species and varieties, it was
possible to have a show of bloom all the year round, he recommended those
who were anxious to grow Heaths well either to devote a house to themselves,

576 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

or to allot a portion of the greenhouse to them separate from the general
collection. Pure peat, with the addition of more or less sand, according to its
natural character, was the proper soil. It should be chopped up with the
spade, and only used when dry. All the sorts delight in charcoal ; and a
liberal allowance of small pieces mixed with the soil and among the crocks
would be found beneficial. Great care should be exercised in watering, as
they were more impatient than most plants of either excessive drought or
moisture. They were liable to the attack of mildew, particularly in winter, or
in long-continued dull weather ; and an occasional gentle dusting of sulphur
at such times would prevent it doing serious damage. The strong-growing,
or what are known as soft-wooded, sorts, such as Hyemalis, should be put out
of doors in summer in an airy but sheltered situation ; while those termed
hard-wooded — of which Massonii, Tricolor, and Ampullacea are the types —
should be put in frames where they can with facility be protected from heavy
rains. No more fire-heat should be given than is necessary to keep out frost,
most of the sorts being hardy enough to stand from 3 to 4 degrees without
injury, but it is always safest to exclude it altogether. The concluding paper
was read by Mr Mark King, Bonnington, the subject being "Interesting
British Plants. " In the course of his introduction, he urged the importance of
young gardeners acquiring a knowledge of botany, and quoted the opinions
of eminent men in corroboration of his views. He afterwards described a
number of native plants of horticultural interest, showing how they might
with advantage be admitted to garden collections. Mr King illustrated
his paper with a large collection of beautiful dried specimens mounted on
sheets of paper. Interesting and instructive discussions followed the reading
of the several papers, and at the close the usual votes of thanks were cordially
tendered to their authors.

Of a large number of exhibits on the table, the following were most inter-
esting : A collection of nine dishes of distinct Peaches, including fine
examples of Lady Palmerston, Osprey, Gregory's Late, and Prince of Wales,
along with four dishes of Currants, consisting of Jackson's Mammoth, La
Versailles, Raby Castle, and White Champagne, from Mr Dunn, Dalkeith
Gardens. Mr L. S. Dow, Saughton, had a double seedling Primula sinensis
of considerable merit ; from Mr Robertson Munro, Abercorn Nursery, a fine
collection of Herbaceous Spikes, including several of the finest of the hardy
perennial Asters — a family of plants invaluable for autumn blooming. Messrs
Todd & Co. had some beautiful spikes of the Double Crimson Intermediate
Stocks, which were very much admired. Messrs John Cowe, Metropolitan
Cemetery, a new seedling Potato, which he described as a cross between the
Victoria and Regent. Mr Webster, Gordon Castle, sent two Melons, which he
stated, in an accompanying note, had been raised from seed brought from
Kbiva by Captain Burnaby. These were remitted to the Fruit Committee
with a view to their being reported on at next meeting. Mr Hugh Fraser
showed branches of Colletia Bictonensis, a curious South American hardy
Hamamelis Virginica, in flower, and Ptelea trifoliata, in fruit — the latter
interesting from its hardiness in Britain, and from its fruit being used suc-
cessfully in France as a substitute for Hops in the manufacture of beer.

i879.]

CALENDAR.

577

CfaUn&ar*

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

A period of fine weather having
been experienced (which we trust has
been general), will do much to for-
ward crops which were in many cases
suffering from continued cold drench-
ings. Weeds, too, were in some gar-
dens having all their own way. The
weather is always right for them.
Seldom have we known an October
more suitable for garden-work of all
kinds ; and the maturation of weeds,
we observe, among cottagers' plots and
on farming land, has been very preva-
lent. In grass-land we have found it
a formidable operation to clear the
park of Thistles, but in every case
have made an effort to clear root and
top. The allowing of such weeds as
Thistles, Groundsel, and Dandelions
to remain on the ground after they
are cut over, is simply worse than
useless. They ripen their seed, and
it is wafted over the surface by the
wind, and as carefully sown as if
human hands had done it. Some
gardens are not always free from
objectionable practices. Where such
weeds have seeded in gardens, it is
well to trench deeply, so that they
may be kept from vegetating. But
they are not always annihilated by
burying : after many years' deep con-
cealment under the surface, they may
be trenched up again to sun and air,
and grow as freely as if they had re-
cently been sown.

Ground becoming vacant should be
trenched or dug as deeply as may be
desirable for the crops which are to
occupy the land next year. We
know no crops which do not grow
well on carefully - trenched ground ;
and on such ground there need
be little fear of drought or injury
from stagnant moisture. Drainage
is, however, a most useful agent in
improving the land, as well as mak-
ing the district a healthy one. The
hoe should be kept at work among
all growing crops — especially Spinach,
young Cabbage, Lettuce, Onions, &c.
A battered, wet, and close surface is an
active destroyer of such crops. Dust-
ings of sifted coal-ashes round the
plants is good protection, and helps
to prevent frost from throwing them

out of the soil. Decaying leaves must
be got rid of; they are objectionable
in every sense. When Parsley is
loaded with rough half-rotten leaves,
a winter of much frost and wet is sure
to do a deal of mischief. Last winter
ought to be a warning to us, so that
we may avoid being "caught nap-
ping." Give protection to Globe Ar-
tichokes by placing Fern-litter or dry
ashes round the collars of the plants.
Crowns of Rhubarb, Seakale. Chicory,
and Asparagus for forcing ought to
be covered — not that they would suf-
fer from frost, but to facilitate the
lifting of them when wanted to
place in the forcing -pits, &c. Be-
sides, it is better for all plants not to
be taken suddenly from frost to heat.
All roots left in the soil, to be lifted as
wanted, are better covered to exclude
frost. This applies to Parsnips, Jeru-
salem Artichokes, and Potatoes left
in the ground to retain the flavour of
the earth : the so-called "new" ones
especially are liable to injury from
frost, and the drier they are kept
the better. Cauliflower and Broccoli
turning in for use should be looked
over frequently, so that none be
left in the frost. Pit -frames, out-
houses, empty glass-structures (orchard-
houses especially), may be turned to
good account now. Endive, Lettuce,
and all other tender plants coming
into use, should have the aid of pro-
tectors. Young well-hardened plants
for spring use will take little harm if
the ground on which they are growing
is dry and healthy. Ashes may be
strewn along the rows of Peas and
Beans which have been recently sown
and are vegetating. More Peas may
be sown on a border this month if
there are not other means of raising
them under protection. Earth - up
Celery when weather allows : use litter
or Fern as protection during severe
frost, but it should be taken off as
soon as a thaw sets in. A quantity of
Celery, Leeks, and similar vegetables
may be heeled in for use by the rub-
bish-heap,— and labour may then be
saved in making the littery covering
as orderly as in the well-kept garden.
Wheeling of manure should have at-

578

THE GARDENER.

[Dec.

tention. When frost sets in, turu com- !
posts, make stakes for Peas, &c, re- i
pair tools, pick over Onions and all
roots in store, clean sheds, and perform i
every operation if weather prevents J
outdoor work from being forwarded.

Forcing of vegetables will now be '
general, and a regular Bupply can only
be kept up by sowing and planting
frequently. French Beans should be
sown in pots (smaller than after the
New Year) three parts filled with
turfy loam (using proper drainage)
every ten or twelve days, according
to demands. The seed need not be
spared at this season — they can be
thinned out after they vegetate, and
the plants earthed up with light rich
soil as they develop : a forcing heat
of 60° is suitable at night. Sun -heat
may always rise higher by 15°. Damp-
ing of the stems is often experienced
when a moist atmosphere is kept,
accompanied by a low temperature.

Water should be warmed to 70° before
being administered to plants in heat.
Fresh air for French Beans may be
admitted when warm out of doors.
Osbom's and Williams's are two good
forcing French 1 Jeans. Gentle hotbeds
for Carrots and Radishes should now
be prepared — mix leaves and manure
well together till they are "sweet: "
a very mild bed suits these. The
Radishes may be sown between the
Horn Carrots ; and when the former
are ready for use, the latter will be
coming forward, and require the space.
Crowding and absence of air would
soon render them useless. Keep up
supplies of Mushrooms, Asparagus,
Seakale, Chicory, and Rhubarb as de-
mand requires. Tomatoes for early
work should be kept growing with
plenty of light and air. Those bearing
fruit should be kept thin of growths
and cropped lightly.

M. T.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — Suckers that were potted !
early in autumn will now have well
rilled their pots with roots ; and as it
is not desirable to shift them at this
dull season, they must, especially if
plunged over hot-air chambers, be
carefully seen to in the way of water-
ing, to prevent their becoming too dry,
and so producing a stunted condition
of growth, resulting in their starting
into fruit with a higher temperature
in spring. Look over them twice
weekly and water such as are dry.
The temperature should now be
reduced to its minimum : in cold
weather 55°, and in mild 60°, is quite
sufficient. Keep the atmosphere from
becoming arid by sprinkling the paths
and placing evaporating troughs on
the pipes. Give these young plants
air every day when the heat touches
65°. If they have become crowded,
replunge them, giving them more
room ; for an attenuated growth now
defeats all efforts to make fine sturdy
plants of them afterwards. Keep a
moist atmosphere and a temperature
of 70°, except in very cold weather,
where fruits are still swelling off, and
range the bottom -heat about 90°. Keep
the soil steadily moist up to the point
of colouring, when no more water
should be given; for if ripened with too
much moisture at this season, large

Pines especially are apt to become
black at the heart before they are
fully coloured. Where ripe Queens
are required in May, a selection of the
plants that are most likely to start
without much growth should now be
made, and placed by themselves in a
light pit or pinery where there is a
good command of heat, so that a night
temperature of 70° can be kept up
after the middle of the month without
overheated pipes. Let them have a
bottom-heat of 90° ; and if they are
very dry, give them a watering after
they are plunged, but afterwards
water very sparingly until they show
signs of starting into fruit. After such
a sunless summer these plants are
more likely than usual to grow in-
stead of fruit if freely watered. The
remainder of the stock of fruiting
plants should be kept quiet for the
present, not allowing the night tem-
perature to rise nor sink much below
60°, unless in very extreme weather.
Suckers on stools of Cayennes in a
Charlotte Rothschilds from which the
fruits have recently been cut, should
now be potted, and plunged in a
bottom heat of 90°, in which they
will soon root and make a most use-
ful succession to earlier stock. The
surest way of keeping up a continu-
ous supply of Pines is to have sets of

i879-

CALENDAR.

579

plants in a good few different stages
of growth.

Grapes. — Look over ripe Grapes at
least twice weekly and remove all
berries that are showing signs of
decay, and let such bunches as exhibit
a tendency to decay or shrivelling be
sent to table first. Keep the night
temperature at from 45° to 50°, accord-
ing to the external temperature, and
everything about the vinery dry.
When a bright day occurs, put a little
extra heat into the pipes and give air
at front and top ; but when it is wet or
foggy, keep the house almost closed,
with a little heat in the pipes to keep
the air in motion. Where it is neces-
sary to put plants in the vinery, it is
much better to bottle the Grapes,
placing them in a dry room with an
equable temperature of about 45°.
Cut the shoot off, as is common in the
case of spur-pruning, leaving all be-
yond the bunch also, and place the
bottom part in bottles of water with
a few pieces of charcoal in each. Look
to the bottles occasionally and make
up the water, at the same time re-
moving all signs of decaying berries.
After the fruit are bottled, the Vines
can be pruned, &c; and plants re-
quiring a cool airy place can be
placed in the vinery, where such is a
necessity. But vineries should never
have plants in them that are very
subject to insects, especially thrip or
white -bug. Pot -Vines that are re-
quired to supply the earliest Grapes
next season should now be started.
If the weather is mild, they may be
subjected to a temperature of about
55°, with a rise of 5° by day, till the
buds begin to swell. Some forcers
advocate starting pot- Vines at a much
higher temperature till the buds burst
into growth — by which means a step in
earliness is gained, no doubt, but at
the expense of an even and strong
start. If a little bottom-heat can be
applied, it will hasten their breaking ;
but this must not be too freely ap-
plied, or a root - growth at the ex-
pense of top-growth will be the result.
Syringe the Vines with tepid water
several times daily till the start, and
keep them steadily moist at the root.
All Vines from which the fruit are cut
should now be pruned and put in
order for starting in due course. Those
who contemplate planting young Vines
in new borders in spring, should have
their Vines ordered or selected before

the best of them are all sold. Well-
ripened Vines raised from eyes struck
last spring we consider best for plant-
ing, and thorough ripeness and fine
fibry roots are of much more import-
ance than merely thick canes— which
thickness often represents weakness.
Soil, too, should be collected, weather
permitting, for the borders — a moder-
ately heavy loam, the top five or six
inches of old pasture-land, being pref-
erable. The site of the border should
be thoroughly bottomed and drained,
so that it be impossible for water to
stagnate on it.

Peaches. — Peach-houses and trees
being got in readiness for starting, as
directed last month, may now have
fire-heat regularly applied to them,
if ripe Peaches are wanted by the 1st
of May. If the weather be mild, begin
with a night temperature of 50° ; if
cold, be content with a few degrees
less. Allow a rise of 8° or 10° by day,
when there is any sun, before giving
air. Still, let hard forcing be avoided,
or the wood-buds will get too much
the start of the bloom-buds. Syringe
the trees several times daily, and keep
the air otherwise moist. See that the
border is thoroughly moist before fire-
heat is applied. Indeed, Peach borders
should never be allowed to become very
dry. Prune and tie succession trees.
Where young trees are yet to plant,
no time should now be lost in planting
them. In making new borders, put
no animal excrement nor leaf-mould
in them, — h cwt. of bone - meal and
4 cwt. of half -inch bones to every
6 cubic yards of soil is all that should
be mixed with it. The Peach likes
a holding, firm, loamy soil, not over
2 feet deep, with the most thorough
drainage.

Figs.— Where early Figs are pro-
duced from pots, a place should now
be got in readiness to start them about
the middle of the month. A light pit,
with a bed of fermenting leaves, into
which the pots can be plunged, with a
bottom-heat of 80° and a night tem-
perature of 50° to begin with, is the
best place for an early start. Top-
dress the pots with horse-droppings
and bone-meal. Keep the soil moist,
and syringe the trees three or four
times daily. AH trees not yet pruned
and top-dressed should not be left any
longer. When the summer's pruning
has been judicious, little cutting is
needed at this season.

580

THE GARDENER.

[Dec.

Cucumbers. — See last month's Cal-
endar. Avoid, hard forcing in cold
weather ; and if a covering of canvas
or frigidomo can be applied to the
glass, so much the better. Keep the
air moderately moist, and see that the
soil does not become over-dry where
close to hot pipes. Do not allow the
plants to bear heavily at this dull sea-
son. Give more or less air every day.
In mild weather keep the heat at 70°;
when very cold, a few degrees less.

Strawberries in Pots. — Put a
quantity of these in heat, according
to the stock of plants and room. We

prefer, for very early forcing, plants
that are in 5-inch pots. If a ferment-
ing bed of leaves in a light pit, on
which the plants can be placed near
the glass, can be afforded, it is an ex-
cellent place for starting them at this
season. Begin with a heat of 50°, and
give a little air every day. See that
the stock of plants are where frost will
not break the pots, and where at the
same time they are cool and moist at
the root. Worms in the pots should
also be guarded against, and no plant
with a worm about its roots should be
placed in heat.

Unices to CtfrrtsjHrnbmts-

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in ' The Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not for
publication, unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We decline
noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and address
of writer.

L. A. — Send your name and address, and we will give you our opinion of
the Grape you have sent.

T. Falkner. — Give your soil a dressing of caustic lime. If the soil is light,
make it firm, and make a puddle of equal parts soot, cow-manure, and mould,
and dip the roots of the plants in it before planting.

A. M. — Grow your Lilium in three-parts maiden loam ; top-spit from an
old pasture, one part rotten cow-manure, and a sixth of the whole of sand.
The same compost, with the addition of a little bone-meal, will suit for Pot-
Vines.

Pi. McF. — We do not know of a society that adopts the rule you state, but
we know of no particular objection to it. It will have a tendency to check the
too common and disreputable practice of entering and not coming forward.

INDEX

A few weeks' grace for early-forced
trees, 517.

A few words about Orchids, 537.

Abutilon "Boule de Neige," 427.

Alternifolius, Cyperus, 323.

Amateur's Garden, the, 24 — Cultiva-
tion of the soil, 25 — Plants for Jan-
uary, 26 — Seeds and seed-sowing, 79
— Asparagus, Rhubarb, and Seakale,
128 — Melons, Cucumbers, Vegetable
Marrows, and Tomatoes, 173 — Celery
and Salads, 228, 278 — Root crops,
309 — the Cabbage family, 356 —
Leeks, Onions, Garlic, &c, 408 —
Peas and Beans, 451 — Potatoes, 498
— Artichokes, Jerusalem and Globe,
561.

Apples and Pears, our supply of, 1.

Artichokes, Jerusalem and Globe, 561.

Asparagus, Rhubarb, and Seakale, 128.

Astilbe Japonica (hoteia), 222.

Autumn, Strawberries in, 30.

Azalea, the, 12.

Bamboo shading, the new, 288.

Beans and Peas, 451.

Bedding-plants, 177.

Begonias, tuberous, 170— as bedding-
plants, 464.

Boilers and pipes, 316.

Books, notices of, 95, 193, 386, 387,
436, 532.

Bothwell Castle, seedling Heaths at,
489.

"Boule de Neige," Abutilon, 427.

Bouvardias, 253.

Brayton Vine sport, the, 573.

Bulbs, herbaceous, 496.

Cabbage family, the, 356.

Caladium culture, 282.

Calceolaria, the, 507.

Caledonian (Royal) Horticultural So-
ciety's Spring Show, 238— Summer
Exhibition, 383 — arrangement of
vegetables at autumn show, 476,
479.

Calendar : Kitchen Garden, 47, 97, 145,
194, 242, 290, 338, 387, 437, 4S5, 533,

; 577 — Forcing Department, 49, 100,

147, 195, 243, 292, 340, 389, 438, 486,

534, 578.
Camellia, the, 134.
Camellias, transplanting and potting,

132.
Cape Heath, the, 69.
Cardinalis, Lobelia, 522.
Carnation, the, 515.
Carnations, Picotees, and Pinks, 63.
Carton, the seat of the Duke of Lein-

ster, 90.
Celery and Salads generally, 228, 278.
Celosias for early flowering, 88.
Chamsedorea Hartwegii, 332.
Change of soil for fruit-trees, Roses,

&c, 36.
Chatsworth, Plums from the Plum-

house at, 432.
Chinese Primula, the, 404.
Choice hardy spring flowers, 302.
Chrysanthemum, the, 314.
Chrysanthemums (small) for house -

furnishing, 430.
Cineraria, the, 454.
Circulation of water in pipes, 569.
Cistus (the Rock Rose), 501.
Clematis, cultivation of the, 250.
Clerodendron fragrans, 565.
Coccinea, Kalosanthes, 456.
Coldness of this season and next year's

fruit crops, 393.
Coleus, notes on, 519.
Collection versus selection, 53.
Correspondents, notices to, 51, 102,

150, 198, 245, 294, 342, 391, 440, 488,

536, 580.
Cotoneaster, the, 406.
Cucumbers, 175.
Cucumber, " Sir Garnet "Wolseley,"

369.
Culford Vine sport, the, 40, 93.
Cultivation of Gardenias, 162.
Culture of the Gladiolus, 199.
Culture of the Hollyhock, notes on the,

28.
Culture of the Pansy, notes on the,

108.
Cyclamen, the, 78, 346.

582

THE GARDENER.

[Dec.

Cyperus alternifolius, 323.

Dawson, Mr A., notice of, 97.

Decorative greenhouse plants : the
Azalea, 12— the Cape Heath, 69—
the Camellia, 134— the Fuchsia, 217
— Bouvardias, 253 — the Chrysan-
themum, 314 — the Cyclamen, 346 —
the Chinese Primula, 404— the Ciner-
aria, 454— the Calceolaria, 507— Stat-
ice profusa, 548.

Dell's hybrid Melon, 523.

Dipladenias, 351.

Double Primula sinensis, 226.

Double White Hepatica, 43.

Dracamas, choice, for table decoration,
543.

Drawing, lessons in, for young garden-
ers, No. XXIIL, 32— Conclusion, 84.

Drumlanrig Gardeners' Mutual Im-
provement Association, 531.

Dwarf Poinsettias, 347.

Early flowering, Celosias for, 88.

Early-forced trees, a few weeks' grace
for, 517.

Early forcing, Vines in pits for, 103.

Early-ripening varieties of fruits, 297.

Economical kitchen-gardening, 7.

Economy of fuel in horticultural estab-
lishments, 428.

Edgings, permanent hardy, 546.

Ernespie, Castle - Douglas, Grapes at,
332.

Essex, market-gardening, 460.

Eupatorium odoratum, 135.

Evergreen herbaceous perennials in the
parterre, 154.

Flower-garden, preparing for the, 65.

Flower-garden, the, 277, 363, 466.

Flower-gardening of the season, 441.

Flower-gardening notes, 553.

Footpaths and walks, 397.

Forced Peaches, the thinning and swell-
ing of, 206.

Forcing Department, Calendar, 49, 100,
147, 195, 243, 292, 340, 389, 438,
486, 534, 578.

Forcing and fuel, 58.

Forcing-houses, hints on the heating
of, 233 — the summer management
of, 299.

Forest - trees, rapid growth, of young,
187.

Forests, New Zealand, 260.

Fragrans, Clerodendron, 565.

Fruit-crops of next year, effect of cold-
ness of this season on, 393.

Fruit-culture, remarks on, 321, 353,
411, 478, 574 — orchard-house, 574.

Fruit-trees, young, 178.

Fruit-trees, change of soil for, 36.

Fruits, hardy, 5, 60, 111, 172, 219,
267, 311, 362, 402, 458, 494, 563.

Fuchsia, the, 217.

Fuel and forcing, 58.

Garden, the Amateur's, 24— cultivation
of the soil, 25 — plants for January,
26 — seeds and seed-sowing, 79 — As-
paragus, Rhubarb, and Seakale, 128
— Melons, Cucumbers, Vegetable
Marrows, and Tomatoes, 173 — Cel-
ery and Salads, 228, 278 — root crops,
309— the Cabbage family, 356 —
Leeks, Onions, Garlic, &c, 408 —
Peas and Beans, 451 — Potatoes, 498
— Artichokes, Jerusalem and Globe,
561.

Garden, the flower, 277, 363, 466.

Gardenias, cultivation of, 162.

Gardening in the open, 71.

Gardener's Primer, the: I., 136—11.,
223— III., 257— IV., 329— V., 425
—VI., 508— VII., 555.

Gardens enclosed with glass, 513.

Garlic, Leeks, and Onions, 408.

Garrya elliptica, 286.

Gladiolus culture, 199.

Glass, gardens enclosed with, 513.

Gloxinia culture, 267.

Gooseberry, green-fly on the, 188.

Grafting and management of Tea Koses,
121.

Grapes at Ernespie, near Castle-Doug-
las, 332.

Green-fly on the Gooseberry, 188.

Greenhouse plants, notes on decora-
tive : the Azalea, 12 — the Cape
Heath, 69 — the Camellia, 134— the
Fuchsia, 217 — Bouvardias, 253 — the
Chrysanthemum, 314 — the Cycla-
men, 346— the Chinese Primula, 404
— the Cineraria, 454 — the Calceo-
laria, 507 — Statice profusa, 548.

Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham, 559.

Hale's early Peach, 297.

Hardy fruits, 5, 60, 111, 172, 219, 267,
311, 362, 402, 458, 494, 563.

Hardy spring flowers, choice, 213,
254.

Hardy winter gardening, 35.

Hardy permanent edgings, 546.

Harrison's Musk for beds, 475.

Hartwegii, Chameedorea, 332.

Heaths, seedling, at Bothwell Castle,
489.

Heating by hot water, 55, 182, 184,
209, 230, 247, 269, 324, 326, 327,
328, 369, 372, 377, 378, 417, 418,
419, 420, 469, 471, 473, 525, 529.

Heating of forcing-houses, hints on
the, 233.

Hellebores, on, 564.

Hepatica, double white, 43.

Herbaceous bulbs, 496.

Herbaceous Pseonias, 400.

I879-]

INDEX.

583

Herbaceous plants, late autumn flower-
ing, 491.

Hibiscus Cooperii, 381.

Hibiscus Syriacus, 120.

Hinds, Mr William, presentation to,
193.

Hollyhock, notes on the culture of the,
28, 464.

Horticultural Association, Scottish, 43,
94, 144, 192, 237, 288, 333, 382, 435,
478, 530, 575.

Horticultural establishments, economy
of fuel in, 428.

Hot- water circulation, 271.

Hot water, heating by, 55, 182, 184,
209, 230, 247, 269, 324, 326, 327,
328, 369, 372, 377, 378, 417, 418,
419, 420, 469, 471, 473, 525, 529.

Hoy a bella, culture of, 143.

"Jack Frost" in the 'Gardeners'
Chronicle,' 337.

Japonica astilbe (noteia), 222.

Kalosanthes, 319.

Kalosanthes Coccinea, 456.

Kitchen-gardening, economical, 7.

Kitchen-garden, 47, 97, 145, 194, 242,
290, 338, 387, 437, 485, 533, 577.

Lapagerias, alba and rosea, 10.

Late autumn - flowering herbaceous
plants, 491.

Leeks, Onions, and Garlic, 408.

Lessons from the late severe winter,
153 — from the London Parks, 566.

Libonia floribunda, 262, 265.

Lilium giganteum, 276.

Lobelia cardinalis, 522.

London, round, 379, 433.

London Parks, lessons from the, 566.

Luculia gratissima, 395.

Management of Vine borders, 313.

Marechal Niel Rose, a few words on
the, 280.

Marigolds, 168.

Market-gardening in Essex, 460.

Melons, 173— Dell's hybrid, 523.

Methven, Mr Thomas, notice of, 97.

Mignonnette culture, 360.

Mignonnette for winter forcing, 20.

Milne, the late Robert, Esq. , 290.

Moore, the late Dr, of Glasnevin Bo-
tanic Gardens, Dublin, 337.

Musk (Harrison's) for beds, 475.

Mutual Improvement Association,
Drumlanrig Gardeners', 531.

Myosotis dissitiflora for winter flower-
ing, 521.

New Orchids, three, 110.

New Zealand forests, 260.

Notes from the Papers, 17, 73, 114,
202, 283, 366, 443, 503, 550.

Notes on Coleus, 519.

Notes on flower-gardening, 553.

Notes on Potato crop of 1878, 41.
Notes on the Strawberry crop of 1879,

523.
Notices of Books, 95, 193, 386, 387,

436, 532.
Notices to Correspondents, 51, 102

150, 198, 245, 294, 342, 391, 440,

488, 536, 580.
Nurseries, the Hale Farm, Tottenham,

559.
Orchard-house fruit-culture, 574.
Onions, thinning unnecessary, 188 —

Garlic, and Leeks, 408.
Open, gardening in the, 71.
Orchids, three new, 110— a few words

about, 537.
Ornamental trees and shrubs : the Lime-
tree, 15— the Syrian Hibiscus, 120 —

the Periwinkle, 179 — Cotoneaster,

406— the Rock Rose, 501.
Pansy, notes on the culture of the, 108.
Papers, notes from the, 17, 73, 114,

202, 283, 366, 443, 503, 550.
Peaches dropping prematurely, 181.
Peaches, the thinning and swelling of

forced, 206.
Pears and Apples, our supply of, 1.
Peas and Beans, 451.
Pelargoniums, a note on, 416.
Pentstemon, the, 232.
Perennials, evergreen herbaceous, in

the parterre, 154.
Periwinkle, the, 179.
Phlox, the, 297.
Phylloxera vastatrix, in the vineyards

of France, 193.
Picotees, Pinks, and Carnations, 63.
Pinks, Carnations, and Picotees, 63.
Pipes and boilers, 316.
Plant-house, a, 273.
Plants, resting and watering, 541.
Planting shrubs, 166.
Plums from the Plum-house at Chats-
worth, 432.
Pseonias, herbaceous, 400.
Poinsettia pulcherrima, 139.
Poinsettias, dwarf, 347.
Potato crop of 1878, notes on, 41.
Potatoes, a gossip over, 126, 498.
Pots for Strawberries, 477.
Preparing for the flower-garden, 65.
Primer, the Gardener's: I., 136 — II.,

223— III., 257— IV., 329— V., 4 1.T —

VI.. 508— VII., 555.
Primula sinensis, double, 226.
Primula, the Chinese, 404.
Pyrus Mauleii, 320.
Remarks on fruit-culture, 321.
Resting and watering plants, 541.
Ripening of winter-flowering plants,

448.
Rhubarb, Seakale and Asparagus, 128.

584

THE GARDENER.

[Dec. 1879.

Rock Rose, the, 501.

Rockwork, making and planting, 343.

Root crops : the Parsnip, 309— Carrots,
310— Beet, 311— Turnips, 311.

Rose, a few words on the Marechal
Niel, 280.

Roses, change of soil for, 36.

Roses in autumn, thinning and mulch-
ing, 467.

Round London, 379, 433.

Royal Caledonian Horticultural So-
ciety's Spring Show, 238 — summer
exhibition, 383 — arrangement of
vegetables at autumn show, 476, 479.

Royal Horticultural Society, 45, 189 —
grand summer show, 334.

Scottish Horticultural Association, 43,
94, 144, 192, 237, 288, 333, 382, 435,
478, 530, 575.

Seakale, Asparagus, and Rhubarb, 128.

Seedling Heaths atBothwelhCastle, 489.

Seeds, the vitality of, 307.

Selection versus collection, 53.

Shading, the new Bamboo, 288.

Shrubs, planting, 166.

Society, Royal Horticultural, 45, 189 —
grand summer show, 334.

Sports and sporting, 141.

Spring flowers, choice hardy, 213, 254,
302.

Statice profusa, 548.

Stephanotis floribunda, 348.

Stove-climbers: Stephanotis floribunda,
348— Dipladenias, 351.

Strawberry crop of 1879, notes on the,
523.

Strawberries in autumn and winter, 30
— all the year, 83 — pots for, 477.

Suggestion, a, 468.

Summer management of forcing-houses,
299.

Sutherland, presentation to Mr William,
96.

Table decoration, a selection of choice
Draceenas for, 543.

Tea- Roses, grafting and management
of, 121.

Telephone in horticulture, the, 531.
Thermometers, testing, 186.
Thinning and mulching Roses in au-
tumn, 467.
Thomery vineyards, a visit to the, 159.
Thyrsacanthus rUtilana, 287.
Tilia (the Lime-tree), 15.
Todea superba, 235.
Tomatoes, 176.
Transplanting and potting Camellias,

132.
Tuberoses for winter flowering, 27.
Tuberous Begonias, 170 — as bedding-
plants, 464.
Turves, raising Vines from eyes on,

186, 236.
Vegetable Marrows, 176.
Vine-borders, management of, 313.
Vine sport, the Culford, 40, 93— the

Brayton, 573.
Vines in pits for early forcing, 103.
Vines from eyes on turves, raising,

186, 236.
Vineyards, Thomery, a visit to the,

159.
Violets for winter-flowering, 123.
Vitality of seeds, the, 307.
Walks and footpaths, 397.
Water in pipes, circulation of, 569.
Watering and resting plants, 541.
Weather, the, 194— in December 1878,

96.
Winter, Strawberries in, 30.
Winter, lessons from the late severe,

153.
Winter gardening, hardy, 35.
Winter-flowering of Tuberoses, 27 — of

Myosotis dissitiflora, 521.
Winter flowering, Violets for, 123.
Winter-flowering plants, the ripening

of, 448.
Winter forcing of Mignonnette, 20.
Young gardeners, lessons in drawing

for, No. XX III., 32— Conclusion, 84.
Young forest-trees, rapid growth of,

187.
Young fruit-trees, 178.

PRINTED BY WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS.