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THE

G A E D E N E K

A MAGAZINE

OF

HORTICULTURE AND FLORICULTURE

EDITED EY

D A Y I D THOMSON

DRUMLANRIG GARDENS

4S8I

AVILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS

EDINBURGH AND LONDON

MDCCCLXXXI

vol: '3

^i\'i .

THE

GARDENER

JANUARY 1881.

ORCHID -CUIi TUBE.

HE culture of Orchids is every day becoming more and
m.ore popular, and in many cases, we may add, more and
more successful. Yet there is still remaining in numer-
ous instances ample room for further improvement, and
our present object is to suggest the direction whence
more satisfying results are to be obtained. It is now pretty generally
ceded by all good cultivators that the night - temperature of plant-
houses should be lower than during the daytime. Nature all the world
over cools down her temperature after sundown ; and even in the
tropics, near the line, there are altitudes of a few thousand feet at
which, during clear nights, radiation is so great that at daybreak one's
teeth chatter, and a fire is the greatest comfort one can have. My
own experience of Orchids, under the most variable of conditions both
abroad and at home, leads me to say that, even for the hottest of low-
land East Indian and African species, a high temperature and an
airless condition during night is far from being as beneficial as is by
many supposed. Everyday practice has shown to me very clearly, and
I doubt not but that the idea has occurred to others also, that those
Orchids are most permanently robust and healthy which have been
gradually and carefully inured to a wide range of temperature. That
this is true of men and other animals is a well-known fact. To illus-
trate my meaning I will take Phalaenopsis grandiflora as an example.
In hot summer weather, when growing, the thermometer during bright
sunlight may run up to 110° with advantage, provided the plants are
moderately shaded ; while, during winter nights, I never feel the
slightest anxiety when the thermometer has not descended below 48°.
In May, during hot days, the thermometer may run up to 95° or 100°,

A

2 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

and at night descend to 55°, without any damage — indeed, as I think,
with advantage — and a range of 40° in twenty-four hours is a very
large one. The usual plan is to keep Phalsenopsis in a very equable
temperature, never lower than 60° at night at any time during the
year ; and surprising as it may seem to many, it is to this uniform
system of temperature that I attribute the numerous failures to cultivate
Phalasnopsis grandiflora in a really satisfactory way. It is so coddled,
so enervated, so to speak, by a uniform high-pressure kind of tem-
perature, that, just as man himself does under like conditions, it
breaks down in health gradually, but none the less surely, simply for
want of that bracing exercise of all its normal functions which a wide
range of temperature within certain limits assuredly gives.

Air and moisture must of course be credited with their share
of the work in all well-developed plant-growth, and for no plant is
air more essential than for the before - mentioned Phalsenopsis. As
an instance of this, I may mention that all last summer, from May
until September, I had a plant of the Javan form of P. grandiflora,
growing and flowering like a weed, on a shelf near the glass of an
intermediate Orchid-house. When I say that at times from twenty to
thirty-six flowers were fully expanded on this single plant at the same
time, it will be understood that the plant is by no means a tiny one.
Air was left on this house night and day all the time mentioned, and
special provision for airing the Phalsenopsis was made by taking a
pane out of the roof above the plant in an oblique direction, so that
rain might not fall on the crown of the plant. Thus treated, the plant
made three fine thick leathery leaves. A fourth leaf made its appear-
ance. At this stage, towards the latter end of August, the autumnal
rains commenced in earnest, and to save the flowers which hung under
the opening in the roof, the glass was replaced, and the result was a
leaf-growth larger than any of the other three, of a far fresher green
colour ; but owing to the want of air, the leaf never acquired its proper
leathery texture, and, of all the leaves upon the plant, is the only one
which became in any way blemished. Really good plants of Phalsenopsis
grandiflora are very rare when one takes into consideration the way
thousands of plants are imported into Europe every year ; and that
they are thus rare is, I am sure, owing to a hot, equable, and com-
paratively airless temperature. In nearly every collection of Orchids
I visited during the past autumn, I found five plants of P. amabilis
and P. Schilleriana ; but of P. grandiflora even presentable plants
were very rare. From many observations, I am certain that a hot and
airy day-temperature, and a cool, moist, and airy night-temperature, is
most essential to the permanent wellbeing of this beautiful plant.
High and dry night-temperatures for this and all other Orchids are
most fatal. In its native habitat, P. grandiflora is exposed to winds
for four or five months, the force and steadiness of which we have no
idea of in our own land. Then for the same period the plants are

i88i.] WALL-BORDERS IN KITCHEN -GARDENS. 3

deluged by nightly rains. I am most anxious on this point of nightly
rains, because they are so prevalent in the tropics that one may be
excused for thinking them especially beneficial. The fact that Nature
syringes and waters her plants most during the cool night-time is not
sufficiently appreciated ; but nightly rains after very hot days in the
tropics are so common, that one must perforce notice them. The finest
collection of Phalaenopsis I ever saw in my life was syringed every
night in accordance with Nature's plan, and air was always left in
circulation during the night. I wish it to be clearly understood that
I do not recommend anything like cool treatment for Phalsenopsids.
No amount of heat in the day-time will do them any harm ; but heat
and drought at night will do so most assuredly. These and many
other tropical lowland plants must always have a high mean tempe-
rature, but a wide range is also desirable ; and as I have endeavoured
to show, air and moisture during the night-time are even more desirable
for these plants than the hot arid atmosphere but too frequently
maintained, especially during the cold winter months. Even during
what is called the dry monsoon in tropical regions nightly dews are
very heavy, and the plants recuperate themselves during the cool,
moist night-time, " after the burden and heat of the day."

F. W. B.

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OP WALL - BOBBERS IN
KITCHE]Sr-GAIlDE]SrS.

NO. I.

The most profitable parts of kitchen -gardens generally are, or at all
events should be, the borders near the walls— more especially those
with a southern or western aspect. All alike can be put to a good
use for fruit, flower, and vegetable culture ; but for the present I in-
tend to confine myself to the two latter principally, leaving the ques-
tion as to what might be advantageously grown on the walls to some
future date, or, better still, to some more experienced gardener. That
these borders are made the most of by many practical gardeners must
be admitted ; at the same time, I believe I am justified in making the
assertion that their value is not fairly estimated by the majority; and,
judging from appearances, the designers of innumerable gardens far
from realise their value. If this were otherwise, why do designers
make them so narrow, and thereby stultify the efforts of those who
would turn wide borders to good account 1 I could point to numbers
of places where the borders are but little wider than the space that
ought really to be given up entirely to the fruit-trees. Invariably
running parallel to these borders are the principal walks in the gar-
dens ; and these, as a matter of course, lead up to the gateways, there-
by rendering it almost out of the question that any improvement may
be effected. But few have the courage to give these narrow borders

4 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

up to their legitimate occupants — viz., the roots of the fruit-trees ;
many, in fact, would not be allowed to do so by their employers, even
if so inclined. They are therefore dug and cropped, and not always
sufficiently manured — the consequence being, the impoverishment of
the soil, and the destruction of many of the best roots by digging, there-
by causing the roots to go down to the subsoil, as only those escape
which have struck down into the oftentimes cold soil.

According to my ideas every border should at least be 20 feet wide,
and be cropped only to within 5 feet of the walls. This would allow
ample space for the roots of the fruit-trees, and also admit of that
portion of the border devoted to vegetable culture occasionally being
double-dug — which operation would greatly benefit both the vegetables
and the trees, as the digging would be a mild form of root-pruning the
latter. The main path would of course be in front of the border, but
a light ungravelled path would of necessity be made as near the walls
as the trees would admit. These paths, composed of the same soil as
the borders, if not trampled too solidly, or much wheeled upon, do
not appear to injuriously affect the trees ; but where it can be man-
aged, I should advise the use of large square paving-tiles, if for clean-
liness' sake alone. They could either be laid down closely, to admit of
being wheeled upon, or they may be short distances apart, in the way
of " stepping-stones."

When I propose the giving up of 5 feet of the border to the trees,
I do not overlook the value of the vegetable crops obtained at the foot
of the walls, where so much may be done in the way of forwarding or
retarding certain crops. To favour the trees, and indeed the vege-
tables also, I recommend the placing of a ridge of good soil, about 18
inches wide, and at least 9 inches deep, close to the walls, and above
the level of the borders. These can be cropped and worked with
little or no injury to the trees, and materially hasten vegetables to
maturity. This not quite original idea may appear rather fanciful to
some, but I have proved it to be a really good one, and consider it
worthy of general adoption. In this paper I will, as briefly as possible,
detail my practice with regard to cropping these ridges. Having al-
ready written upon " Early Vegetables," although principally with re-
gard to frame-culture, repetitions in the course of my remarks may
unavoidably occur. It is a generally recognised fact that a few small
dishes of any choice vegetables sent in for the dining-table at a time
when very scarce — that is to say, either very early or very late in the
season — are more appreciated than large quantities supplied at a time
when " everybody has them." Employers appreciate a dish of Early
Peas, Potatoes, Cauliflowers, Beans, &c. -; and a dish of either often
" comes in handy," at a time when there, is but little variety of vege-
tables presentable. If this were not the case, there would be no
stimulus to this extra exertion on the part of gardeners, as the results
of much labour are often, to all appearances, very meagre indeed.

i88i.] WALL-BORDERS IN KITCHEN-GARDENS. 5

Potatoes are one of the most important crops, and to these I give
up about one quarter of the ridge at the foot of the south wall, and
one half of that along the west wall, securing the earliest tubers from
the former, and the heaviest crop from the latter. The soil used is
light and open, nothing being better than old hotbed soil with a good
addition of leaf-mould, or that obtained from a heap of balls of old
pot-plants. In such a mixture the Potatoes mature earlier, and are of
better quality than when grown in ordinary garden-soil. The time of
planting ought, to a certain extent, to be regulated according to the
weather and locality ; but a certain amount of risk must be run. We
usually plant about the first week in March, and find no better varieties
for the work than either Mona's Pride or Veitch's Ashleaf. The tubers
are previously sprouted, the strong central shoot only being retained,
and are placed 9 inches apart in a drill at least 8 inches deep, and
drawn along the centre of the ridge. To preserve the shoots, they are
moulded over with the hand, afterwards levelling with a rake, and
sowing Radishes thinly over part of the length, repeating the sowings
of the latter at intervals of about a fortnight. Wood's Frame Radish
is still one of the best for this work, the French Breakfast and the
early short-topped Turnip-rooted varieties being also very suitable and
good. The Potatoes are not moulded up, but require to be protected
from frost, the most critical time being when the growth is pushing
through the surface, as it is then very succulent and tender. Inverted
flower-pots, with a clod of earth over the drainage-hole, will ward off
a severe frost ; and when these are too small, branches of evergreens
or other contrivances are quickly and easily put over them. In this
manner we secure a fairly heavy crop of good Potatoes and Radishes
in time to closely follow those obtained with the help of a rough
frame and mats.

Next in importance are Cauliflowers, and of these a number of very
serviceable heads can be had with the help of the south and west walls ;
and where but few or none are grown under hand-lights or in pits,
these sites ought especially to be utilised to the extent of about one-
fourth of the available space. In addition to those autumn-sown
plants wintered in frames, I find it a good plan to prick out a number
rather closely (about 4 inches apart) at the foot of the walls, early in
October. Medium-sized plants are preferred, and if these should be
inclined to grow freely, they are checked by being raised with a trowel
and pressed back again. Small plants this season have already with-
stood 10° of frost; and though last winter the stock was killed by frost,
in most seasons such sturdy little plants will live in the open, and
be far more suitable for early planting than are those wintered in
frames — at least as these are generally treated. Early in March they
are thinned out, and all gaps made good, finally disposing them about
15 inches apart, and in a single line. Should these exposed plants be
killed during the winter, some of those preserved in frames are substi-

G THE GARDENER. [Jan.

tuted, which are protected with inverted flower -pots, though only
when absolutely necessary. Some of the best Walcheren Cauliflower
I have seen, were grown at the foot of a south wall — in this instance
in the ordinary border. Those grown on ridges, as I advise, will not
often be large, but this is more than compensated for by their extra
earliness. Any well-enriched soil will do for the Cauliflowers.

Although Peas are scarcely so profitable as the two preceding kinds,
they will yet, with a little trouble, give a few small early dishes. For
this work, Laxton's IMinimum must eventually become very popular, as
it is remarkably dwarf, very prolific, and of extra-good quality. Unique
(Laxton), an older dwarf variety, has not met with much favour, but I
find it a really profitable sort, and annually save seed for sowing the
next season. Other good dwarf early varieties are Carter's Extra-early
Premium Gem, and M'Lean's Blue Peter. After various experiments,
I have come to the conclusion that the plan of sowing in boxes, and
placing in cold frames in preference to heat, or of sowing in the open
ground, is by far the best. They make sturdy growth, and readily
transplant into the open border, or the ridge, as in our case ; no per-
ceptible check being given, even when the roots are shaken quite clear
of the soil. We use about four ordinary bedding Pelargonium boxes,
and although we sow thinly, invariably secure enough plants to make
a line about 16 yards long. They are planted in a manner similar to
box-edging, a deep drill being cut with a spade (6 inches from the
wall), the plants laid in rather thinly, and the roots lightly covered.
Stakes are at once given according to the height of the variety, and
beyond that they are no further trouble. If sown early in January,
they may be put out on the first favourable opportunity in March,
and will give a picking a fortnight before those that may be sown or
planted farther from the walls.

Lettuces are well worthy of a place at the base of a warm wall.
They may be treated much the same as the Cauliflowers, as in reality
they are quite hardy in the southern counties. Our greatest difficulty
is to keep off rabbits, birds, and slugs. Two lines may be grown on
the ridge, the back one, about 6 inches from the wall, to be a Cos
variety put out 10 inches apart ; and about 9 inches in front of this
a line of a hardy Cabbage variety, these being 9 inches apart. A row
of the latter may also be worked in in the front of the Peas.

W. Iggulden.

ROSES ON THEIR OWN ROOTS.

The interest in Roses never seems to flag, except it be in new ones.
The new Roses of late have been very much like new novels, attractive
only in their names. Enthusiasts — and they are not few — will buy,
and try, and endure disappointments, in the hope of the chance of
having something good and new ; but a Marechal Niel or a Madame

i88i.] ROSES ON THEIR OWN ROOTS. 7

Lacharme does not come every year. Yet there seems quite a glut of
first -class Roses enumerated in every catalogue — there is, indeed,
enough to satisfy the greatest craving for variety. Some of the oldest
Roses still appear in the catalogues, and to our taste are preferable
to very many of the newest. We do not refer to the Provence and
Gallica Roses, but to the various Hybrid Roses. William Griffiths,
Paul Ricaut, Coupe d'Hebe, Souvenir de la Malmaison, Mrs Bosan-
quet, Devoniensis, were familiar names almost scores of years ago, and
still they are to the front. What we would like to call attention to
at present, with respect to this subject of Roses, is the desirability of
cultivating them on their own roots, more especially such old Roses as
we have mentioned, and also some of the middle-aged ones, so to
speak, — such as Victor Verdier, Paul Neron, General Jacqueminot,
Jules Margottin, and many more. These are old classics, like Currer
Bells or Waverleys — names which resist time. Our taste in this matter
may be peculiar. We have always pitied the poor Rose perched on a
4-foot stilt, chained like a parrot to a pole — and also the Rose, as a
dwarf, grafted to the gross Manetti stock ; the former seems to say
buy, buy, buy — the latter, die, die, die. If any one wants to plant
Roses for posterity, then plant them on their own roots. If you are
a tenant at will, subject to eviction, and cannot take your Roses with
you, then plant them on the Manetti, or on the Brier, which is the
better of the two. Very recently we saw rather an extensive rosary
entirely (or nearly so) of plants on their own roots — fine, strong bushes,
and comprising many of the comparatively newer sorts. They were
selected and planted by a genuine rosarian and gardener, on his own
ground, for himself and. his posterity. This was not accomplished in
a year, but was the work of years of patience, the object kept steadily
in view until it became an accomplished fact. If we had the planting
of a rosary of our own to-day, we should plant nothing but Roses on
their own roots. All the varieties really worth growing can now be
obtained from the leading Rose-growers on their own roots, at a slight
advance in price on those worked on the Manetti. With the mulch-
ing of manure which should always be on the Rose-beds in winter,
there need be no fear of the hardest frosts. Dryness at the root is the
greatest enemy of the Rose. Under whatever circumstances, a gravelly
soil, a hot, dry situation, is, in short, starvation. You can starve your
Rose on its own roots ; but with cow-manure and the water-pipe, its
cultivation is possible on any soil. We have never seen better Roses
than those grown on pure peat, manured heavily with cow-dung on a
siliceous subsoil. Roses are not obtained from cuttings like Gera-
niums or Gooseberries — unless it be China or Hybrids of the China
Roses, of which there are many — but are with the greatest ease propa-
gated by budding or grafting ; consequently the easy plan is the most
in fav^our, and the propagation by cuttings or layers is neglected — yet
the latter process is easy and successful. The hardest-wooded Prov-

8 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

ence or Gallica Rose is easily rooted by layering. Cuttings of the
harder- wooded varieties are slow to strike roots, and are extremely
liable to rot or damp-off at or under the surface of the soil. This
suggests that a dry airy atmosphere is the best condition in which to
strike them. We have therefore been tolerably successful, by insert-
ing cuttings round the side of small 4-inch pots, in rather stiff soil, and
placing the pots, when filled, in the sun, much the same as Gera-
nium cuttings, on gravel, at the foot of a wall, in the month of Octo-
ber, until the cuttings had formed the callus at their base, afterwards
protecting them in a cold pit, well aired, where roots were formed in
spring. By this means a pretty large percentage of cuttings will
strike. Too much wet must be avoided ; over-dryness at that season
is not so much to be dreaded. We have also been successful, more or
less, by inserting the cuttings in the open border, first making the
position hard by treading, and then spreading a coat of puddle 2
inches deep over the surface, and inserting into the puddle good
strong cuttings with a heel attached. In a short time the puddle
stiffens, and firmly envelops the base of the cutting, excluding
the air. In winter loose leaves can be spread between the rows of
cuttings, to help to exclude frost. In this way we have seen more
than 50 per cent struck. Much depends on the weather. The proper
time to insert the cuttings is early in October. The same success
would not attend the operation if a cold frame is used, because of
the damp stagnant atmosphere. Marvellous as are the Rose-bushes to
be seen sometimes on the Manetti or other stocks in the open border,
and more so as pot-Roses, still they are as nothing compared to what
they are capable of growing to on their own roots, either in the open
air or under glass— General Jacqueminot forming a bush so high that
the writer could not reach the bunches of Roses.

The advantages of growing Roses on their own roots are many.
There is no trouble with suckers — these become an advantage ; there
is not the misery of daily looking on a stock which is irretrievably
dying by slow degrees, and starving the poor Rose ; there is no stak-
ing or tying required, strangling is avoided, and chafing by the effect
of the cord. They practically defy frost ; for if killed to the surface,
they will spring again from the roots.

Our professional wisdom was exercised in the selection and plant-
ing of several dozen choice Standards last spring— 2-feet stems, and
fine .heads. Spacious pits were dug ; great care taken in the mix-
ture of yellow loam and rotten manure ; much grave deliberation on
the planting, staking, and tying was expended ; the hopes of the lady
rosarian were high ; watering and watching was not neglected ; and
woe betide a grub or a green-fly ! In May the foliage was good, and
the buds numerous and plump. But it proved a grievous month for
the Roses ! It was the daily privilege of two i^et donkeys to be par-
aded on a walk adjoining the Roses. One morning early those saga-
cious and omnivorous animals undid the latch of the garden-gate^ and

i88i.] GREENHOUSE PLANTS— THE AZALEA. 9

perpetrated the deed they had long meditated — viz., ate off the leaves
of the Roses, and found them good to the taste, and themselves no
doubt wiser, like our first parents. In the morning the Roses were
gone, but the 2-feet stems left. Our presence was summoned. What
was to be done ] Why, shoot the donkeys, and plant Roses on their
own roots, was the advice of The Squire's Gardener.

[We thoroughly agree with every word here said of standard and dwarf
grafted RoSes. They are ugly and most expensive, and serve no good pur-
pose, unless it be to produce a few extra-sized blooms for competition. — Ed.]

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

No. I. — The Azalea.

The varieties of this genus in cultivation at the present time are
somewhat numerous, and all gardeners are acquainted with a greater or
less number of them. The brilliancy and peculiar freshness exhibited
by their flowers, combined with the profuse manner in which they are
produced on healthy plants, are qualities that place Azaleas in the
front rank of flowering plants, and no other class of greenhouse plants
can successfully compete with them in the matter of producing a
brilliant and striking floral display from January to June. Then the
great diversity and purity of colour exhibited in the flowers of differ-
ent varieties, are points in which Azaleas excel. The flowers of some
varieties are pure white, those of others, various shades of pink or
rose colour ; some have crimson, and others orange-scarlet coloured
flowers ; and again, there are varieties that have striped flowers
of various shades, — so that in the matter of colour they supply
a wide field to choose from. Then there is a difference in the
shape or formation of the flowers produced by different varieties.
Some have double or semi-double flowers, others have single flowers.
Some varieties have the petals of the flowers crisped or frilled, and
others have plain or smooth-petalled flowers ; then there are kinds that
have the petals reflexed, and others that have flowers more or less cup-
shaped. Thus, in the colour and formation of the flowers, they
present an amount of varied and interesting beauty that is equalled
by few other classes of greenhouse plants, and not surpassed by any.
Other recommendatory qualities possessed by Azaleas are that, as a
rule, they are of a compact habit of growth, and, when properly treated,
never fail to produce an annual crop of flowers in great abundance
from the time they are 6 inches high by 6 inches through, until they
reach as many feet high by the same through. Their free-flowering
habit while the plants are small renders them very appropriate' and
useful subjects for taking part in floral decorations in the dwelling-
house, where such are in request. As subjects for cutting from,
they are extremely useful, their flowers being adapted both for

10 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

bouquet - making and arranging in vases. They are also amongst
the hardiest of greenhouse plants, and if the wood is well ripened
they will bear without injury several degrees of frost. It is better,
however, not to expose them to frost if it is possible to avoid doing
so. And further. Azaleas are easily forced for a supply of flowers
in the winter ; but the process, to be successful, must be gradual.
If the plants are brought at once from the temperature of the green-
house to a structure where the temperature is say 70" or 75°, the
likelihood is that the wood -buds will burst into growth, and the
flower-buds will damp off or go "blind," and thereby defeat the end
in view. The proper way is to place the plants in a temperature of
from 50° to 55° at first, and keep them in this temperature until the
flower-buds are seen to be on the move, then a rise of 5° or 10° in the
temperature will cause the flowers to expand before the wood-buds
have made any great progress in growth.

The last thing I will mention in favour of Azaleas is that they
are very "telling" plants at public exhibitions. A healthy well-
bloomed specimen is a " strong point " in favour of the collection in
which it is placed ; and no collection of flowering plants at a spring
show can be said to be complete that does not include a good
example of some variety of the Azalea. Every one who has seen
a Spring Show of the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society must
have noticed the magnificent specimen Azaleas exhibited by Mr
John Paterson of Millbank, and others. These plants illustrate, in
a striking manner, the profuse flowering qualities of different
varieties when under the care of skilful cultivators. The only
fault that, in my opinion, could be found with the examples in
question is, that there is scarcely "a bit of green" to be seen about
them ; they are masses of flowers from top to bottom. This is due, in
some measure, to the close way in which the shoots are trained ; and I
am of opinion that even in the case of plants intended for exhibition,
it is a mistake to train the shoots in so stiff and formal a manner; and
for home decoration Azaleas should have only as much training as will
prevent them from having a straggling look. Still, it would be inter-
esting to some, and useful to many readers of the ' Gardener,' if Mr
Paterson would state in its pages the mode of culture by which he
suceeds in laying on the colour so thick.

To produce fairly good examples of the Azalea, however, is not a
difficult matter, and we will now say a few words on cultural points.

Froimgation. — This is accomplished by seeds, cuttings, or grafting, —
the former method with the view of producing improved varieties, the
two latter with the view of perpetuating and increasing the varieties
already in existence. Under favourable conditions cuttings of most
varieties emit roots freely. Many varieties, however, do not grow so
fast on their own roots as they do when grafted on stronger-growing
kinds, and, as a consequence, grafted plants are to be preferred. Only
the strongest-growing varieties should therefore be propagated by cut-

i88i.] GREENHOUSE PLANTS— THE AZALEA. 11

tings, and these principally with a view of supplying stocks on which to
graft less free-growing kinds. September is a good time to put in the
cuttings. When selecting them, choose mature shoots, of from 2 to
3 inches long, of the current season's growth. Sever them from the
parent plant with a sharp knife, and trim off a few of the lower leaves
from each. This done, insert them in well-drained pots or shallow
pans, filled with peat and silver-sand in equal proportions, well mixed
together and firmly pressed in the pots. After the cuttings are in-
serted give them a good watering by means of a fine-rose watering-
pot, for the purpose of settling the compost firmly about them ; then
place the pots containing them on the bed or on a shelf in the propa-
gating-pit, and cover them with bell-glasses : shade them from direct
sunshine, and supply them with water as required until the following
spring, when they will be rooted and ready for potting off into separate
pots, using a compost similar to that in which they were rooted.

After the little plants are potted off place them in a temperature of
about 65°. Shade them from sunshine, and maintain a close humid
atmosphere about them for two or three months. Under this treat-
ment they will grow apace, the object being to get them on as fast as
possible the first year. Those plants intended to be used as stock for
grafting other varieties on should not be permitted to make more than
one shoot each, and if all goes right they will be strong enough to re-
ceive the grafts in eighteen months from the time they were put in as
cuttings. When about to be grafted, the stocks should be placed in a
temperature of about 70°, a week or two previous to the operation of
grafting taking place. This will cause the sap to be moving in them
at the time the scions of the desired varieties are attached to them,
and thereby the union between stock and scion will more readily take
place. The scions should not be more than 2 inches long, taken from
the points of the shoots ; and the method of grafting should be what
is known as splice or whip grafting. Side-grafting is also a successful
method ; and both these are so well known to gardeners that I need
not describe them. After the operation is complete, the plants
should be placed in a close case in the propagating - pit, and
kept shaded and moist until the union is complete, and afterwards
treated as established plants. I would remark, however, that at the
present time the propagation of Azaleas, in any way, is not much
practised by private gardeners. Young plants in a flowering state can
be purchased at the nurseries much cheaper than what the same sized
plants could be produced for at a private place ; besides, it is not at
every place where the necessary accommodation is at hand for propa-
gating Azaleas, either by cuttings or grafting.

Repotting established Plants. — This may be done at any season, but
just as the plants have done flowering is perhaps the best time to do
so. Before transferring the plants from smaller to larger pots, the
balls of soil about their roots should be thoroughly moist. It is also
important to success that the drainage be ample, and neatly arranged

12 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

in the pots, so that it may act satisfactorily at first, and continue to do
so until the plants need repotting again.

A suitable compost for Azaleas consists of sandy loam or good fibry
peat — but not a mixture of both — and coarse river-sand, in the propor-
tion of four parts in bulk of loam or peat to one part of sand. When ap-
plying the compost to the roots of the plants make it as firm as possible,
and do not fill the pots over full ; leave plenty of room for holding
water. After being repotted the plants should be placed in a tem-
perature of 60°, shaded from sunshine, supplied with plenty of atmo-
spheric moisture, and a moderate amount of air for six weeks or so —
after which time they should get as much air as possible.

About the middle of July the plants should be placed out of doors,
where they may remain till the middle of September. While standing
out of doors the pots should be placed within other pots, or wrapped
round with hay or straw bands, which serve the same purpose — that of
protecting the roots from injury through the action of the sun or dry
air on the outside of the pots.

Watering. — No rule can be laid down as to how often this should
be done. The compost about their roots should not, however, be
allowed to become anything like dust-dry at any season ; and on the
other hand, a sloppy condition of the compost must be avoided.

Insects. — Azaleas are liable to be attacked by mealy-bug, scale, green-
fly, red-spider, and thrips. The two last insects give most trouble.
Thrips in particular have a special liking for Azaleas, and if permitted
to overrun the plants, will soon destroy them.

Placing the plants on their sides on a proper platform, and giving
them a good washing with cold water by means of the water-engine
now and again, will keep red-spider in check, and, at the same time,
prevent thrips from making much headway.

If thrips get numerous, treat them to a strong dose of tobacco-fumes
on two or three successive evenings. J. Hammond.

THE FRUIT-GARDElSr.

No. I.

What are called the small fruits are of greater value to persons with
very small gardens than are such fruits as Apples and Pears ; and with
such, a good supply for dessert, for cooking, and for jireserving may be
grown, without fail, in soil of a by no means favourable kind, and in
any climate within these islands. A small piece of ground, if properly
cultivated, may be made to yield a large quantity of Currants, Rasp-
berries, Gooseberries, or Strawberries, and that in a year or two from the
time of planting ; whereas Apple and Pear trees require much greater
space, are longer of coming into bearing, and are always precarious, even
although the soil and climate may be good. We therefore advise

i88i.] THE FRUIT-GARDEN. 13

those whose ground does not e-xceed half an acre, to avoid such things,
except for covering walls, when they will be at least ornamental if
properly trained, and may occasionally yield fruit to pay for the rest of
the ground and the labour bestowed upon them. We daresay, how-
ever, that this may fall into the hands of many who would like to pro-
duce a few Cherries, Plums, Apples, or Pears of their own growing,
and out of their own garden. For these we intend to detail the best
modes of cultivation known to the writer. It may also happen that
some of our readers may be anxious to produce a few bunches of Grapes
in their greenhouse, or that even a small vinery may be possessed by
them. We are glad to see many artisans, and, in some instances, even
colliers and labourers, with little bits of glass, under which Vines are
grown, and grown not altogether unsuccessfully. Many tradesmen and
others have also little vineries in their gardens, and for each of these
classes we will give the results of years of practice in the cultivation
of the Vine, and also directions whereby the greatest possible amount
of produce may be secured from a given piece of ground, of what we
have called the more valuable fruits.

THE GRAPE VINE.

It is only in the most favoured spots of these islands that Grapes of
any kind can be grown, of even tolerable excellence, out of doors.
Glass houses and artificial temperatures are absolutely necessary for
growing Grapes to anything like perfection, especially in the northern
counties of England, and all over Scotland ; nevertheless, many good
bunches of Grapes are annually ripened in very small glass structures,
where very little heat is applied. Going into places where one could
scarcely find an entrance, and where an upright attitude was an impos-
sibility, except to persons much under the writer's height, we have
often been astonished to see Vines, cramped for room, trained on no
intelligible principle, and planted in soil by no means congenial,
bearing quantities of fairly good Grapes, and this in counties hav-
ing the least favourable climates. That with proper soil, proper
training, and, at times, a little artificial heat, better results would be
obtained, there can be no room to doubt. But the knowledge of what
proper treatment is, is just what such cultivators want, and what it
is our object to supply.

We do not write for those whose vineries are large and roomy, and
specially put up for the cultivation of the Vine by owners of extensive
gardens ; for such generally employ practical men, who are, or ought to
be, able to advise their employer how to carry out, or to carry out
themselves, the proper operations necessary to secure the best results.
And if a book, giving all the information that can be desired, be
wanted, then no better treatise can be secured than W. Thomson's
* Practical Treatise on the Cultivation of the Grape-Vine,^ to be had
from Messrs Blackwood, Edinburgh ; or D. Thomson's ' Handy-Book

14 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

of Fruit-Culture under Glass/ from the same publishers, — both of
which are the very best books of their kind to be had, and the culti-
vation of the subjects treated on is given even to the minutest detail.
However, we will suppose that no such books are ready to hand, and
will therefore give all necessary directions for the cultivation of the
Vine on a small scale.

We think we cannot accomplish our object in a better way than by
transcribing a letter which we wrote a year or two ago to an artisan
who came to us asking for instruction. He had, in his spare time,
put up a house 12 feet long, 5 feet broad, and 10 feet high. The
back of the house was a stone wall, so the house formed what is called
a " lean-to." It faced nearly due south, and he thought, if he knew
how to proceed, he might grow Grapes. We did not sit down and tell
him how to proceed, but promised to write out instructions, so that they
might be referred to at any time. The truth is, we were afraid (like
the unjust judge) that his continued coming might weary us, and,
worse, absorb too much of the few minutes which we can daily call ou
own. Our written instructions were as follows : —

"You may congratulate yourself on the fact of having had a bare
wall facing the south against which to lean your house, for that is the
best aspect possible— although one facing a little further east, or much
further west, would have done well enough. Your " lean-to " is also
the best form of a vinery, although even that is by no means necessary
to successful Vine cultivation. I would advise you, in the first place,
how to make your border. You need about 2 feet in depth, at least,
of good healthy soil for the Vine-roots to run in ; and you want it a
good breadth, for confinement either at root or branch is not good for
Vines. You say that you have founded your house 6 inches deep.
That was a mistake which you will have to rectify. Your front wall
is 2 feet high, and you may have the soil to within 6 inches of the
front plate. Well, you must excavate another 18 inches, beginning
at the back wall and extending to, in the meantime, 2 or 3 feet in
front of the house. This will of course undermine it, and you must
provide against this by underbuilding it, and allowing the front wall
to rest on pillars 3 feet apart, — two in the middle and one at each
corner. The spaces are for the roots extending outwards ; for we
certainly advise your having an inside border, and the Vines planted
inside. Should you object to so much trouble, and perhaps expense,
you may have your border wholly outside, but our experience is that
your Vines will not grow so rapidly the first year as they would do
planted inside ; but this is about all the difference that will happen
in your case.

" After you have taken out the soil to the depth advised, if the soil
underneath is the least wet you must put drains in it to make it dry ;
for a wet bottom will not answer for Vines, although they do require
such waterings as you saw us giving the Vine-borders here. If it is

i88i.l DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 15

naturally dry you will only need to surface-drain it — that is, lay a row
of tiles from the back to the front, with a few inches of fall, if pos-
sible, one at each end, and one in the middle. Over these drains you
must put stones or broken bricks, tiles, or similar material, to the
depth of 8 or 9 inches ; for Vines need great waterings, and a speedy
outlet for superfluous water. Over these stones you must place a turf,
grassy side downwards, to prevent the earth, of which the border is
to be made, from getting down among the stones and choking the
drainage." J. H.

{To he continued.)

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

LISIANTHUS EUSSELLIANUS AND L. PKINCEPS.

These Lisianths are perhaps two of the most gorgeous and showy green-
house plants in cultivation. Though they used formerly to be con-
sidered and treated as stove-plants, yet they thrive quite as well in the
greenhouse, or at least in the intermediate house.

They are both natives of South America ; hence, as coming from a
warm country, and before their culture was fully understood, they
were, like most other exotic plants on being introduced, almost as a
matter of course relegated to the stove, at least by those who did not
stop to consider under what conditions they were found in their
native habitats. They are found in Mexico and New Grenada, at a
considerable elevation, even as high as 11,000 feet; so it naturally
follows that the treatment usually accorded to plants from more tem-
perate climes must suit them also, and such is found by practice
to be the case. L. Russellianus was introduced to this country
in 1835, and was so named in honour of the Duke of Bedford, who
was a great patron of horticulture. It was flowered first by Mr
Turnbull at Bothwell. The flowers are cup-shaped, and of a deep-
blue colour, verging on purple. It is generally considered a some-
what difficult plant to cultivate, which may be the reason that one so
seldom sees it among collections of plants. To grow a good speci-
men of it is considered a pretty fair test of a gardener's skill as a
plant-grower ; but it is well worthy of more extended cultivation.

It can be propagated either by cuttings of the half-ripened wood, or
be raised from seed ; the latter is the more general way. The seed
should be sown at the end of February or early in March. As the
young seedlings are very impatient of too much moisture, which
makes them damp off quickly, the pot or pan should be well
drained. It is immaterial what kind of soil the pot be filled with,
provided about an inch and a half or so of the top be finely-sifted
leaf-mould and sand — two-thirds of the former to one-third of
the latter. The seed should be sown thinly on this mixture, and

16 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

pressed gently into the soil, witli some flat instrument, but no cover
ing of soil put over it. Water through a very fine rose, and cover"
the pan closely with a pane of glass, and set it in a warm pit.
When the seedlings are large enough, which may be in about from six
to eight weeks, they should be potted off singly into thumb-pots, and
plunged in a gentle bottom-heat, being very careful of them in the way
of watering. They may require a shift into larger pots about July.
The soil should consist of two parts of peat, one part of good fibry
loam, and one part of sharp sand, a little leaf-mould to be added, or a
little good old manure. They should be kept as near the glass as
convenient, and in a warm pit, until they take to the fresh soil,
when they may be removed to a cooler place, but out of the way of
draughts. They may be wintered in a pit where the temperature will
range at about 50° at night, and they must be very carefully looked to
in the way of watering. In spring they may be again shifted into
larger pots, and plunged for a time in a slight bottom-heat, in order to
make them start kindly. About the middle of June they will come
into flower, and so continue for a considerable time ; and will form
an attractive addition to the greenhouse or conservatory. L. prin-
ceps is propagated in the same way as the other, either by cuttings
or from seed, and it is even a more showy plant. The flowers are
tube-shaped, and about 5 or 6 inches in length, of a glowing scarlet,
but yellow at each end, and bulged out in the middle, the apex of each
bloom spreading out into six segments, through which the anthers and
pistil protrude themselves. The flowers are borne in clusters on the
points of the shoots. The plant is of a compact habit, and grows to a
height of about 2 feet. The general treatment given to L. Eussell-
ianus will also suit this variety. J. G., W.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

The Apple trade of America with this country is, says the Loudon ' Tele-
graph,' still in its infancy, and yet it is enormous. We are told that " Wash-
ington Market, in New York, and the adjoining streets, are ' literally blocked
with barrels filled to repletion with red, green, and golden fruit ; while trucks
and waggons of every kind are engaged in conveying Apples from the receiving
depots to the various commission houses.' From Philadelphia, Baltimore,
Boston, and Montreal come similar rej)orts, so that, for many weeks past,
hardly a vessel has left the eastern seaboard of the United States without
having a large consignment of American Apples on board. One hundred
thousand barrels are exported from these cities every successive week, the
cost of each barrel ranging at the shipping place from one dollar and seventy-
five cents, or seven shillings, to one dollar and twenty-five cents, or five
shillings, apiece. Upon arriving at Liverpool, Glasgow, and London, each
barrel is sold at rates varying from seventeen to eleven shillings, and they
are landed in excellent condition, with hardly an Apple damaged. The most
favourite specimens are Newtown Pippins, Cranberry Pippins, Spitzenbergs,

i88i.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 17

Baldwins, and Greenings, which are, for the most part, sold in London by
costermongers at the rate of two or three for a penny, while, by the West-
end fruit shops, the finest Newtown Pippins are retailed at eighteenpence a
dozen. It is obvious that, at these prices, enormous profits must be made
either by the American shippers or by the consignees in this country; nor can
it be denied that Apples ought to be much cheaper in England than is now
the case. Be this, however, as it may, the export trade of fruit from North
America to Europe is still in its infancy; and nothing is more surprising to an
Englishman who visits the United States for the first time, than the amazing
abundance and superlative excellence of Apples, Cranberries, and Peaches. In
the Western and Southern States, big baskets containing these fruits may be
bought at a shilling apiece ; and Dr Nichols tells us that in New England
' the finest Apples cost less than three-halfpence a bushel — less, in fact, than
a single good Apple often costs in London.' In Georgia and Alabama deli-
cious Peaches rot upon the ground in thousands of bushels, which even the
multitudinous hogs are not able to devour. In former times, before an in-
genious Yankee had invented paring-machines, it was the custom, especially
in New England, to have what were called ' apple-paring bees,' at which a
dozen or more families met together during the autumn, in order to pare the
Apples with sharp knives, and then to quarter and core them, previous to
stringing the quarters upon twine, and hanging them up to dry in festoons
suspended from the kitchen ceiling. Dried Apples, and open pies made from
them, constitute, in fact, one of the commonest and cheapest dishes which are to
be seen upon New England tables in winter; and if some little skill in cookery
were employed, as is rarely the case, in preparing them, we doubt not that
the insipid pumpkin-pie — of which, about a century since, Talleyrand, when
exiled to the United States, expressed such abhorrence — would disappear before
the superior attractions and flavour of a similar dish made from Apples.

" Hitherto the humbler classes in our great cities have had no idea of making
any other use of these cheap Apples than is involved in their consumption in
a raw state. 'Pleasant as is the Apple by itself,' says the author of the
admirable * Book of the Table, ' ' it needs assistance in cooking. Its taste
requires to be heightened by other fruity flavours, to be crossed with spices,
to be enriched with butter, and magnified in contrast with sugars and creams.'
Stewed or baked Apples, with a little marmalade or currant-jelly added to
them, form a cheap and palatable dish ; and Apple-tarts with cloves, nutmeg,
and a little lemon-juice squeezed into them, are within the reach of the hum-
blest households. "We trust that the experience gained hitherto by American
shippers of the amazing quantities of this delicious fruit which the English
markets can absorb will lead hereafter to a largely-increased supply, at dimin-
ished prices to the consumer."

Turning from fruit to vegetables, it seems not at all unlikely that the Ameri-
cans will soon be formidable competitors in the early Potato trade. Not much
more than a week distant from our shores, and with a better climate, there
seems to be no reason whatever against them securing a monopoly of this
trade also. It seems as if home growers will eventually be compelled to con-
fine themselves to the production of perishable fruits only — like Strawberries
and Currants, &c., which there is always a good market for.

We do not know anything concerning Mr Stevens of Gullane, but should a
monument ever be raised to the investigators of the Potato disease, we should

B

18 THE Gx\RDENER. [Jan.

say he will deserve a prominent niche in it, not only for the originality of his
views on that subject, but also for his remarkable opinions regarding the
mental capacities of his own class — the farmers of the Lothians ; that is, as-
suming, of course, that he was not "crammed" on the subject of the Potato
murrain, and induced to exhibit himself in the capacity of lecturer before the
Haddingtonshire farmers, by some malevolent wag who knew the lecturer's
weak point. According to the 'North British Agriculturist,' Mr Stevens set
out with the affirmation that the Potato disease was "entomological in its
nature — that is to say, an insect destroying the plant." It was not an insect
as large as "the caterpillar on the Gooseberry," which, it appears, must also
be an insect — but it was an insect for all that ; and the lecturer was afraid
lest he might be " charged with egotism were he to repeat the long string of
illustrious names who supported this affirmation." This modesty on Mr
Stevens's part was, we feel quite sure, superfluous, because any "string" of
illustrious names might have been flattered by being even remotely associated
with such a remarkable discovery. It is not by any means an easy task
following Mr Stevens in the train of reasoning by which he evolves a Potato
fungus from a Potato beetle, and associates it with Huxley and Tyndall, and the
"bacteria," " all of a heap ; " and it is really a relief to the reader to get quite
lost and confounded with the lecturer, in a maze of Parliamentary evidence
and much irrelevant matter that does not appear to have any earthly relation
whatever to the subject of the lecture. Burns talked of "stringing blethers
in a rhyme," but Mr Stevens's were strung to such good purpose, that one of
his audience declared that, "for his part, he did not know that he was a bit
wiser; but by groping in the dark," in the way they had begun presumably,
he thought " they might stumble on something that would be a preventive or
palliative of the disease." Considering that the lecturer had just traversed the
field of science for more than two hundred years back, in order to make the
beetle-fungus theory clear, such a remark was neither kind nor compliment-
ary. This was not all, however, for Mr Stevens's discovery got into the
* Scotsman;' and the lecturer being questioned regarding the "entomological"
descent of the Peronospora infestans — second cousin to the Gooseberry cater-
pillar— he explained that the insect-view of the subject was adopted purely
for the purpose of carrying the idea home to the minds of men, into whose
heads it could not be beaten in any other way ; "he therefore wrote for them
[the East Lothian farmers] in such words as would carry the idea into their
minds. " The testimony of one of his listeners, already given, shows, however,
that the lecturer's laudable object failed somewhat in this respect. It seems
exceedingly probable that Mr Stevens's hearers went away with about as
accurate an idea of the Potato disease "monster" in their minds, as the
Irishman had of the mosquito after hearing a description of it, and recognised
his entomological acquaintance in an elephant which he met soon after, ex-
claiming, " By jabers, if there ain't the very baste itself ! " Mr Stevens's at-
tempt to get out of the "entomological " situation, by throwing the blame on
the stupidity of the class he lives amongst and associates with, is not generous,
and cannot be accepted as quite satisfactory. The whole tenor of the address,
and the remarks that passed, show that the ignorance was not all on the side
of the audience; and besides, Mr Stevens uses terms such as "bacteria,"
"mycelium," flocculent Alms, "zoospores," &c., without explaining them,
that leads one to think he entertained a very high idea indeed of the in-
telligence of his hearers. In his closing remarks, he states that it is his
"earnest desire that more and abler minds than his may give the subject

i88i.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 19

consideration," — a sentiment to which we are sure any intelligent reader who
reads his address will cordially subscribe.

Mr Luckhurst has been writing on the Potato disease in the ' Journal of
Horticulture,' and although his arguments on that head are not very much to
the point, he has one fact to record which is worth more than all the rest.
He says he only secures his Potato crop when he lifts the tubers before they
have finished their growth, and before the disease attacks them. His theory
seems to be, that the disease does not manifest itself before maturation sets in,
and if the Potatoes are lifted and stored before that period they will be saved ;
and he could, for years back, and does now, point to "store-sheds full of
sound Potatoes " in proof of his statements. It is not the first time that early
lifting has been suggested, if not practised ; but whether the experiment has
been fully tried or not, we cannot say. Mr Luckhurst will have done good
service, however, if he can prove what he says in a perfectly satisfactory
manner. If he has saved his crops on all occasions by the means he states,
there is no reason why others should not do the same ; and it is to be hoped
the subject will receive further attention. "We attach great value to state-
ments like Mr Luckhurst's, but it is essential that they should be verified in
the most satisfactory manner. It appears that Mr Luckhurst lets his crops
grow as long as he thinks safe ; and as soon as the tubers have reached a fair
size, and before a speck of disease appears on the foliage, he lifts and stores at
once. What about the keeping qualities of the tubers stored at this stage ?

It has been stated by several correspondents of the ' Garden ' that the Blue
African Lily is hardy, or nearly so, in some parts of England, and succeeds
well out-of-doors. For whatever purpose it is used it is a beautiful plant, and
is well worth cultivating as a conservatory specimen, or for indoor decoration.
Its tall spikes of delicate blue flowers render it a conspicuous and pleasing
object anywhere. Its near neighbour, the Imantophyllum, is also tolerably
hardy, and has been planted out and flowered well in the open beds in York-
shire during the summer months. There are several varieties of this plant,
the best producing very large trusses of deep orange-coloured flowers. We
saw an immense plant of this in the front hall of a gentleman's house sometime
since, and thought it one of the finest decorative specimens we had ever seen.

If it could be proved that the climate of Derbyshire and Yorkshire was
superior to the climate of "Worcester, Hereford, and Kent," it may be
readily comprehended that that interesting "under-ground" theory promul-
gated under the auspices of the Scottish Horticultural Association need not be
quite abandoned. If Apples and Pears, &c., succeed better in a bad climate
than in a good one, it is manifest that there must be something in the " strat-
um of soil" that does it. If, however, this question of climate cannot be
sustained, we do not see what course is open to the able author of the * Fruit
and Flower Producing Agencies of Fibry Roots ' but to capitulate as grace-
fully as he can ; and the closing paragraph of a late communication of his to
this paper shows how well he understands the amenities of polite discussion,
and that this is not too much to expect from him. With regard to the ques-
tion at issue — climate — here is what any one may read in any authentic
topographical and statistical history of Worcester from which our author hails,
— and the other two counties are much the same : "The soil of Worcester con-
sists of almost every variety suitable for vegetation ; its timber is magnificent,
especially the Elm, which is called "the weed of Worcester. It produces

20 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

table-fruit and vegetables of the finest quality, and its fertility has long
gained for it the reputation of being the garden of the mid-west. The climate
is mild and healthy, and the rainfall is nearly tJic minimum of England. Hop-
gardens are plentiful in the western division, and their produce ranks next to
that of Kent." So much for Worcester,

Yorkshire, we learn from the same source, suffers from its inclination to
the German Ocean ; and as for Derby, we are told that it is " more a manu-
facturing and mining than an agricultural county," and that "the climate is
cold and moist, with fogs and often frosts in summer." History does not
make any allusion to the culture of hops in Derby or York, or to the manu-
facture of either cider or perry. The above description of Worcester api)lied,
we must remind the reader, five years ago ; but the author of ' Fibry Roots,'
&c,, went there about that period, and the climate changed for the worse
immediately, and it is now neither "early, dry, nor warm." What changes of
a physical or other nature have happened there during these five years have not
yet been chronicled, but a paper on that subject will, it is to be hoped, be forth-
coming soon. The writer of the paper under review was " suddenly called to
Edinburgh," and broke his journey at Leeds and Derby, where he spent prob-
ably about four-and-twenty hours, a good portion of the time in bed no doubt,
and he had therefore " an opportunity of making climatical notes," hence his
authority for his statements, which we do not of course attempt to controvert.
In taking leave of this subject, "Reader" has only to observe, that in criti-
cising lectures or papers addressed to the whole world, he does not consider it
incumbent upon him to put any other construction upon the words and
phrases they may contain than these express and are meant to convey, and
as they are evidently understood by those to whom they are addressed.

Reader.

HINTS FOR AMATEURS.

HAEDY FRUITS.

It is seldom that experienced fruit -farmers plant orchards at this
season ; neither do practical gardeners often commit a mistake in this
manner, though frequently they are, not from choice, compelled to yield
to circumstances, and plant when a chance offers itself. If the work has
not been done during the past three months, we would prefer prepar-
ing the ground for the trees by the necessary trenching, draining, or
whatever is required, and plant when days are longer and warmer, as
weU as when the ground was congenial. Turfy loam, or otherwise fresh
wholesome soil, placed next the roots, is always a good beginning for
them. A quantity of lime -rubbish or brickbats laid immediately
under the tree will cause the roots to spread outwards instead of going
down into the cold subsoil. When trees are for orchards in which
cattle are to graze, the stems should be high, and every encourage-
ment given to make good substantial growth ; but then the roots and
trees will do much better if they are kept into the surface-soil and free
from the cold subsoil. Tap-roots mostly lead to unfruitfulness. In few

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 21

localities can roots be left to themselves with safety and profitable-
ness. If trees on walls and elsewhere have to be planted now, choose
a period free from frost, lay the roots out into wholesome loam with
extra care, and finish by mulching well. Pruning, training, staking, clear-
ing trees of moss, &c., washing them with lime and soot mixed, stimu-
lating old trees with fresh rich surface-soil after clearing off that which
may be sour or inert, are some of the more pressing operations at pres-
ent. When training where wires are used, it is necessary always to
have a twist of the tying material between the bark and wires, other-
wise canker may show itself. This precaution is specially necessary
with Cherries, Apricots, and Peaches. When tying is made to nails (a
system we rather like by placing nails thinly and permanently), the
wood should be also clear of the metal. When shreds are used (a prac-
tice we never countenanced), they should not be tightened to injure
the shoot, but plenty of room left for the wood to expand. Rasps
may be trained to wires, single stakes, or bent over, such as taste may
dictate. Crowding should not be allowed : four canes tied together,
growing 3 to 4 feet apart, are enough if they are strong. Proceed, if
not done, with Currant and Gooseberry pruning, and paint the shoots
with lime, soot, and cow-manure mixed, to keep off birds. Examine
fruit-stores.

FLOWER- GARDEN.

In this department the chief part of the work is keeping order and
sweetness. Whatever style the beds and borders are arranged in, the
same attention as to general management is necessary — rolling, sweep-
ing, using lime-water to keep worms quiet, and prevent their mischief
in lawns. Where flower-beds can be turned up to frost by trenching,
it will be of much advantage to the bedding plants next summer;
drought is thus prevented from burning up the roots, which it does
when they cannot get down out of its reach. Tulips and Hyacinths
should be protected during severe weather. Turfing, box-planting,
and repairing of edges, may be done at any time that weather is mild
enough for the operation. Now is a good time to have composts ready
for potting. Stock of cuttings for next year's supply may be examined,
and when kinds are scarce they may be placed in warmth to start them
into growth ; when large enough, they can be taken off as cuttings,
and propagated. This applies to such kinds as Verbenas, Petunias,
Heliotropes, Iresines, &c. All hardy and half-hardy plants under pro-
tection of glass should have plenty of air and light. Watering must
now be done with much care. Dribbling of surfaces will now be more
destructive than usual. Avoid throwing the water about the struc-
tures, especially when there is no means to dry it off quickly. A small
hotbed made now with leaves and a little horse-manure would bring
many things on to be increased, and also do well for propagating ; but
steam and unhealthy vapours should not be confined.

22 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Greenhouse plants generally require more care during this month
than at any other period, watering only when necessary; and to give
enough requires practice how to ascertain this. With many plants the
mischief from bad watering is only seen after the season is advanced.
Chrysanthemums, when done flowering, are the better of protection
in a frame or pit, especially when early cuttings are wanted. They
may be put in a frame this month, and kept plunged and close till
signs of flagging are past ; then they should have plenty of air. Flow-
ering shrubs, bulbs, and other plants to make the show-house gay, may
be placed into heat (say 50° to 55°) every two or three weeks, to meet
the demand. Cinerarias, Calceolarias, and Primulas should be kept
near the glass till they come into flower. Those Cinerarias which are
flowering and have their pots full of roots, may have manure-water.
Camellias, Epacris, and Heaths now flowering may have more water
than those not flowering. Drainage and clean surfaces are very im-
portant to such plants. Change the atmosphere by applying a little
fire-heat to expel damp. In severe weather it is injurious to keep high
temperature by fire-heat ; 40° to 45° is safe. Keep foliage-plants free
from dust, and insects must have no footing on them. Climbers may
be kept within bounds : except those which are flowering, the most
of them will be about starting into growth.

STOVE.

Many plants will have finished blooming here for the season. They
may now be rested by having less water, and be kept cooler. Ges-
nerias. Gloxinias, and Achimenes may be put into pots or pans to be
started. As the month advances, some of the pot-bound plants to be
grown larger may be potted in preference to starving for want of root-
room j others may have their drainage put right, and be fresh surfaced.
Look to Caladiums, and see that they are not getting dust-dry, or suf-
fering from damp and cold. Thrips, scale, and bug must be stamped
out. Temperatures may be 55° to 60°. M. T.

PEAS AND THEIR CULTURE.

Of all the different kinds of vegetables grown none are greater and
more general favourites than Peas, The chief object which every
one aims at in their culture is to have them as early as possible, and
they can never be had too late in the autumn. In some exceptional
instances they are produced in pots early in spring, and by this means
they may be had some weeks or months earlier than in the open
air. But few have the accommodation to treat them in this way;
and as it is a practice never likely to become very general, details of
it need not be given here. A few notes, however, on their outdoor
culture throughout the season will no doubt be more acceptable.

iS8i.] PEAS AND THEIR CULTURE. 23

Many sow their early Peas in November, others not until January,
February, or March. Having sown them at all these times, we
are not greatly disappointed if vermin or severe weather prevents
the November sown ones from doing so well as could be wished, as
we find that those sown in January and February come in about as
early ; and as a rule they are more satisfactory both in growth and
crop. From this your readers will understand that if they have
not sown their early Peas in November they will not be far behind yet,
but the first chance should now be taken of sowing the first crop.
For mid-season and late crops the rows are better when far apart ;
but with early ones it is different, as it is an advantage when one
row affords shelter to the other. This is best secured by sowing the
rows about the same distance apart as the Peas grow in height.
Supposing the variety to grow 6 feet high, sow the rows 6 feet
apart. Dwarf ones may be sown in under the same rule.

A south border or sheltered but sunny strip of ground is best for
the early crops. Where manure is plentiful the whole ground may
have a coating dug into it ; but when this useful commodity is scarce,
as it is in many gardens, a quantity should only be dug in under the
rows. Good manure of any description is necessary for Peas, as the
produce is always inferior and flavourless without it. In selecting
a day to sow let it be dry over head, and the soil not wet and spongy.
The drills should be taken out with a spade to the full width of
that tool, and the seed should not be sown too thickly ; but this is
not so liable to happen in a wide drill as in a very narrow old-
fashioned one, when the Peas were generally sown on the top of
each other, and the young growths came up in thickets. The drill
should never be more than 3 inches deep, and the soil should be made
firm and smooth over the seed.

Where vermin are troublesome, care must be taken to trap them
from the time the seed is sown. Snails can generally be kept
from doing harm by sprinkling the surface of the row with soot
or lime ; and if this is followed up after the young plants are
above ground, birds will hardly ever touch them. As soon as the
growths can be seen above ground, the Dutch hoe should be run
deeply along each side, and the stakes may be put to them afterwards.
These, especially if a few small bushy twigs are put in along the
bottom, afford much shelter during cold winds in spring. When
the first crop is in, others should follow sufficiently close to each
other to give a continuous supply of Peas throughout the whole
season. To make two sowings every month from January until July,
will give fresh green Peas from the end of May until the end of
October. As the season advances, the most open parts of the garden
may be selected for the rows ; and the same mode of putting in the
seed as we advise for the early sowings should be followed out all
through. In heavy soil and damp situations the seed should never

24 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

be put far below the surface ; but in light dry soils the crops which
w^ill come into use throughout July and August, when hot dry
weather is generally experienced, had better be sown in shallow
trenches. The soil is thrown out as if for Celery, the manure dug in
the bottom, and the seed sown and covered over, leaving the surface of
the row from 4 to 6 inches below the surrounding ground.

Mildew often proves troublesome on Peas in summer and autumn.
Extreme drought as well as excessive wet seems to propagate and
nourish this, but good liberal cultivation will overcome all such mala-
dies better than any other prescription. In very dry weather, liberal
w^aterings with liquid-manure does much good ; and a mulching of half-
rotten manure, put along the sides of the rows before they come into
bloom, improves quality and lengthens supply in hot weather.

As a show vegetable. Peas have received a good deal of attention
lately, and deservedly so, as their merits and popularity entitle them
to this. And it may interest some to know that they may be grown
to win in the very best competitions, without any special treatment
apart from that which we have just recommended, and that, too, with-
out in any way sacrificing the ordinary crop. Of varieties we have
said nothing, but these must not be omitted, as they are now so
very numerous that few can grow them all, and a trustworthy selec-
tion may be the means of preventing many disappointments in scant
produce and inferior quantity. William the First is now a well-known
early Pea, and is amongst the best of the kind which can be named.
It comes sooner to maturity than any other tall-growing Pea, and
the pods are plentiful and flavour good. The first and second sowings
may be made of this ; then we come to something better for the
main crops in Carter's Stratagem, Telephone, and Culverwell's Tele-
graph. These three Peas have been selected by us from amongst over
three dozen kinds grown here, as the best in every way which have
yet been introduced. They all bear enormous crops of long hand-
some pods, well filled with sweet high-flavoured Peas. Champion of
England, Veitch's Perfection, and Ne Plus Ultra, although not very
new, also possess much merit ; the last named is an excellent late
variety, but to grow it properly, it should be stopped when the
growths are 5 feet high. Laxton's Omega is another grand late
sort, and that gentleman's new " John Bull " eclipses everything for
size of pod. J. Mum.

Margam, Taibach, S. Wales.

CHOICE NE'W OR RARE HARDY FL0W:ERS.
Armeria setacea. — This little gem of an alpine plant grows only about

1 inch or 1^ inch high, in pin-cushion form, densely set with bristle-
like bright-green leaves. The flower-stems rise to the height of about

2 inches, wiry and erect, bearing beautiful rosy-pink flowers.

i88i.] CHOICE NEW OR RARE HARDY FLOWERS. 25

Lithospermum tinctorium. — A very beautiful and distinct species,
with broader and very much more hairy leaves than the lovely and
better-known L. prostratum. The flowers are large, brilliant deep-
blue, produced on stems 6 inches long, enduring for a couple of months
in summer. .

Thermopsis rhombifolia. — A very handsome species, with large
Lupine-like flowers, bright- yellow, and very showy in terminal racemes.
The plant is vigorous, growing to the height of about 18 inches.

Androsace sarTnentosa. — One of the most beautiful of this highly in-
teresting genus of alpine plants. It forms attractive rosettes of small
ovate leaves, densely clothed with silky white hairs, giving the whole
plant a somewhat hoary aspect. The flowers are larger than those of
most of the other species of the genus, deep rose-coloured, with a white
eye, and are borne erect in neat umbels. Most suitable for rockwork
and pot-culture.

Lamium longiflorum. — A most desirable border-plant, growing to
the height of about 18 inches, and clothing itself in the early summer
months with large white and purple flowers.

Daphne rupestris. — A very dwarf-growing Daphne, of rare excellence
both as regards perfume and decorative qualities. It forms a dense
compact carpet of dark-green foliage, which is quite obscured in its
flowering season by the profusion of its soft rose-coloured flowers,
which are produced in terminal clusters, and are larger than those of
the lovely D. cneorum.

Saxifraga pyrenaica var. maxima. — This beautiful early spring-
flowering saxifrage belongs to the oppositifolia section of the genus.
It is the largest-flowered species of that section, and one of the most
attractive of spring flowers.

Anemone vernalis. — A very dwarf-growing species of this valuable
decorative group. The flowers, which are large, are pure white inter-
nally, and bluish-purple externally.

Arenaria halearica. — An old-fashioned, but little-cultivated, gem, ad-
mirably adapted for sunny banks on rockwork, or for carpeting in
light warm soils where the drainage is good. The plant, even when in
flower, rather clothes than rises above the soil. The flowers are small,
pure white, and profuse.

Campanula Eaineri. — One of the handsomest of the dwarf-growing
species. The flowers are very large, nearly 2 inches across, erect,
purplish or bluish-purple.

Campanula macrantha. — A very handsome Bell floiver, growing to
the height of about 2 feet. The plant grows erect, with deep dark-
blue flowers of large size.

Campanula pulla. — One of the gems of this rich genus. It grows
only a few inches high, but in every stage of its growth is a most in-
teresting plant. The flowers are pendent, very numerous, deep dark
indigo-blue. It is best adapted for culture in pots or on rockwork.

26 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

Campanula Wnldsteiniana. — A dwarf dense - growing species, of
somewhat tufted habit. It is a very profuse blooming plant, the
tlowers being rich deep lilac-blue.

Crocus imperatonius. — A very distinct and pretty species, flowering
when the weather is favourable about Christmas. The flowers are
lilac, buff, and purple.

Heleniinn Uoopedi. — This is by far the finest of the genus. It grows
about 2 feet high, producing very large deep orange-yellow flowers of the
most showy description. It is one of the most handsome of summer-
flowering border-plants.

Erigeron macranthus. — A very showy species, with large spreading
rosy-purple flowers — that is, the ray is of that colour, and the disc yel-
low. An excellent border-plant, growing to the height of about 15
inches.

Geiitiana gellda. — One of the most lovely of this beautiful genus.
The flowers bright pale-blue, borne at the extremities of the somewhat
diffuse stems, which rise to the height of about a foot.

Linum camjmnulatum. — A handsome yellow-flowered species, about
15 inches high.

TAniim Jlavum. — Another beautiful yellow-flowered species, perhaps
the best of its colour, and a very compact grower.

Linum provinciate. — A compact-growing species, with bright-blue
flowers, height about 18 inches.

Linum viscosum. — A remarkable species, with viscous downy foliage,
and large handsome rosy-purple flowers.

S'ilejie Elizabethce. — A most lovely species, growing to the height of
about 4 inches. The flowers are very large, bright deep-rose.

Pentstemon glaher. — A very pretty Pentstemon, very dwarf, only
about 6 inches high, with pretty glaucous foliage and large rose-tinted
blue flowers.

Pentstemon humilis. — A lovely little plant, about 6 inches high. The
flowers are deep gentian-blue. W. Sutherland.

THE RENOVATION OP AN OLD GARDEN.

Some few months ago " Mr Iggulden" alluded to the kitchen-garden
here under my charge, at the same time suggesting that I should de-
scribe the system adopted in bringing the soil into a tolerably satisfac-
tory condition. At the outset it will be'necessary to state, that for many
years past (at least ten) the old garden in question was condemned as
worn out and of comparatively little use. The management of the
ground during the early portion of that time I cannot say anything
about ; but for a few years previous to being in my charge, the system
of kitchen-gardening adopted was anything but likely to improve an old
garden — cropped and undoubtedly heavily manured for many years.
It would be unreasonable to say that the crops that were taken from

i88i.] THE RENOVATION OF AN OLD GARDEN. 27

it were good, because they grew worse and worse until it was difficult
to produce a Cabbage. If planted, tbe whole would club before being
ready for use, and had to be cleared away. Many attempts had been
made to obtain a new garden, but without success. Although late in
the season when it passed into my charge, and the time for cropping
close at hand, I resolved to try in earnest to see what could be
done towards improving the condemned garden. However, in the
first season but little was accomplished, owing to the large quantity
of work remaining to be done, both under glass and in the outdoor
departments. The little that was done was done well ; and during
the summer season preparation was made as opportunity offered to
make a good start in early autumn. But, the greater portion of the
garden was dug and cropped only to disappoint and annoy ; for all the
Brassica tribe clubbed and went off as on previous occasions, except a
good batch of Brussels Sprouts that was planted upon the ground pre-
pared as the whole garden was intended to be done. The Sprouts
were really grand, and gave good hope of improving the ground if the
plan started was well and thoroughly carried out, — not one clubbed.

The portion on which they were planted was considered the worst in
the garden, but fortunately it turned out to be the best, with a little
extra labour the first season. Heavily manuring an old garden that has
become impoverished or worn out does not mend the evil, and is, com-
paratively speaking, of no use. Deep digging cannot be too highly
recommended in the improvement of old gardens ; but great care is
requisite not to bring to the surface too much of the soil that has been
undisturbed at the bottom for years, or it will be some time before it
is sufficiently fertile to produce a crop, especially if in a sour and un-
satisfactory condition, as was the garden here. It had evidently not
been disturbed deeper than 8 or 9 inches below the surface for some
years. The subsoil was poor hungry -looking stuff to bring up to
grow vegetables in, if the ordinary system of trenching had been adopt-
ed. In the soil-yard there was found a large heap of old soil that had
been used for growing Cucumbers and Melons, and for other purposes,
which, when cleared out of the houses, had been allowed to accumulate :
this was removed to a piece of ground intended to be operated upon. In
another enclosure were leaves and grass, which had been wheeled from
the lawns and allowed to remain for years, and were thoroughly rotted.
Quantities of this were carted upon the ground and spread over the
surface 6 inches thick, ready when the work of trenching commenced.
Only 2 or 3 inches of the bottom-soil were brought to the surface ;
the leaf-mould and about 2 inches of the surface-soil were placed in
the bottom, with some of the fresh soil well worked amongst a portion
of the subsoil — in fact, nearly as much care was taken in mixing the
whole as if required for potting purposes. The layer of soil near the
surface had no vegetable matter, but an extra quantity of the fresh soil
incorporated with it. In addition to this, the whole had a dressing of

28 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

hot lime liberally applied, and only the largest lumps slightly slaked
— the rest was turned into the soil without being slaked. It was sur-
prising how it upheaved the soil and quickly made it as light as a bed
of ashes, the sodden and sour condition of the soil being soon changed.
Before planting the Sprouts, the ground had to be rolled and made
more firm.

The following autumn and winter a good portion of the garden was
treated in this way ; and from time to time, as quarters became vacant,
old potting soil, the surface-soil from Vine and Peach borders, old Vine
borders, and all kinds of rubbish from various sources that would burn,
was burnt and mixed in as well. All the ground was treated as described,
and the lime worked into it in the spring, or sufficiently early to get
well cooled before the various crops had to be put in. Knowing that
soil of a tenacious nature was much better adapted to the growth of
good vegetables, and our soil being light, and made lighter still by the
heavy application of lime, clay was obtained and liberally scattered
over the surface and allowed to lie through the winter, so that the frost
caused it to crumble, in which condition it incorporates with the soil
much better than if spread on and dug in at once without exposure to
the action of the weather. Clay mixed with the soil remains in lumps
unless it be either burned or exposed to frost ; and the latter being the
best in our case, as the soil was already too light, the clay was dug in
at the same time as the lime. This operation was repeated again the
following year, but without the application of lime, when the greater
portion of the bottom-soil was brought nearer the top. At this time
manure was used for the various crops, but not in large quantities j in
some cases it was worked in as the trenching proceeded, in others just
before the crops were put in : the latter I think preferable. All old
soil is still carefully kept, as it proves of much greater service to old
gardens than heavy applications of manure. Fresh soil, clay, and lime
are capable of bringing old gardens where the soil is light into a
thoroughly satisfactory state ; and the latter is, so far as I am able to
judge from the effects here, calculated to reduce clubbing to a minimum.

The garden here will now grow all kinds of vegetables well except
Carrots, and we hope that they too will soon succeed. It is question-
able if ever the ground was in much better condition than it is now ;
and I do not doubt that it will yet considerably improve, and ere long
grow first-class vegetables — as good, at least, as can be produced in this
changeable and uncertain climate. These notes on the renovation of
an old garden are not intended for those who have had similar circum-
stances to contend with, and much greater difficulties to surmount,
and who have had many years of experience in the renovation of
old gardens, and may be able to point out in the ' Gardener ' some
facts worth recording ; but they are intended for those who may be
labouring under disadvantages in trying to produce vegetables in ex-
hausted gardens. Doubtless at first the renovation of impoverished

i88i.] BOTANY FOR GARDENERS. 29

gardens entails a large amount of labour — much more so than if trench-
ing, manuring, &c., only were needed. Trenching and thoroughly mix-
ing the soil takes almost double the time of ordinary trenching. Never-
theless it pays well in the end, when satisfactory crops can be produced
with some certainty. When the soil is once got into fair condition, it
is not difficult afterwards to maintain it in order, and continue to im-
prove it. Under judicious management it should never require to be
all trenched the same season, but a portion at a time, thus extending
the operation over a series of seasons. Wm. Bardney.

BOTANY FOR GARDENERS.

NO. III. — STEMS.

The Stem or Trunk is that portion of the tree which has by some been
termed the axis, supplied with pipes, cells, and filters, and through
which the sap rises in its progress to the leaves. Part of the stem
displays a vascular, and the other portion exhibits a cellular, structure.
The stem is produced by the successive development of leaf-buds,
which cause a corresponding horizontal growth between them, and
varies in structure in four principal ways, — viz., Exogens, with 2
cotyledons, the radicle itself usually elongating ; leaves net-veined ;
perianth (petals) in 4's or 5's ; wood in a continuous ring, formed by
successive additions to the outside. Endogens, with 1 cotyledon, the
radicle usually remaining undeveloped ; leaves straight - veined ;
perianth in 3's or multiples of 3's ; wood in isolated bundles, formed
by successive additions to its centre. Acrogens, when the stems are
formed by the union of the bases of the leaves, and the extension of
the point of the axis ; or by simple elongation or dilatation, where no
leaves or buds exist, as among Thallogeris. In altitude or length, and
diameter, stems present the most varied and contrasted features.
According to some travellers, there is a Palm that grows 15 feet high,
with a trunk not thicker than a finger. A comparison, indeed, be-
tween the stems of various plants would in some cases afford examples
of widely divergent extremes. The Scirpus capillaris is not thicker
than a hair, and some are as fine as a gossamer thread ; while the trunk
of the Baobab is nearly 100 feet in circumference. The stem of
Exogens may be distinguished into the Pith, the Medullary Sheath,
the Wood, the Bark, and the Medullary Rays.

The Pith consists of cellular tissue, occupying the centre of the
stem. It is always solid when first organised j but in some cases it
separates into regular cavities, as in the Walnut, when it is disciform ;
or it tears into irregular spaces, as in the Umbelliferas (Parsley, Carrot,
and Parsnip, for instance).

The Medullary Sheath consists of spiral vessels ; it immediately
surrounds the pith, projections of which pass through it into the

30 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

medullary rays, and is in direct communication with the leaf-buds
and the veins of the leaves ; and by it oxygen is carried upwards,
liberated by the decomposition of carbonic acid or of water, and con-
ducts it into the leaves.

The Wood lies upon the medullary sheath, and consists of concen-
tric layers ; is formed by the successive deposit of organised matter
descending from the buds, and by the interposition of the medullary
system connecting the pith and the bark. New wood is formed
annually and deposited between the external surface of the woody
skeleton and the inner surface of the liber. Therefore the central
wood is the oldest and firmest, and necessarily the most mature and
permanent. Our forest-trees supply examples of this kind of growth,
and the age of a tree may be known by the number of concentric
layers. A layer is the produce of one year's growth in countries
having a winter and summer ; but this rule is of uncertain application,
as in some tropical countries, owing to the very small and sometimes
no period of rest, more than one is formed.

The Medullary Rays consist of cylinders or compressed parallel-
ograms of cellular tissue belonging to the medullary system : they
connect together the tissue of the trunk, maintaining a communication
between the centre and circumference ; act as braces to the woody and
vasiform tissue of the wood; convey secreted matter horizontally from
the bark to the heart-wood ; and generate adventitious leaf-buds.

The stem of Eyidogem offers no absolute distinction of pith, medul-
lary rays, wood, and bark. Endogenous plants deposit a layer of
wood internally and towards the centre. The external cylinder is
consequently the oldest and first formed, and therefore the exterior is
the hardest or most indurated, as is also the lowest part of the trunk ;
and, it may be repeated, the stem is thus gradually built up by a pro-
longation of the fibres of the leaves that are deflected at a specific angle
towards the centre. From this view of the case it must appear that
the extension in length of Endogens bears no ratio of proportion to
their diameter, as is exemplified in the case of Bamboos or the Palm.

In what are called Dictyogens, the stem has the structure of
ExogenSj the root that of Endogens — Smilax is an example.

XO. IV. — LEAVES.

Leaves, when perfect and fully developed in flowering plants, consist of two
parts : the lamina (limb), or disk — and the petiole, or foot-stalk ; the latter in
many cases being articulated or jointed with the branch or stem, so as to be
readily detached without laceration when the leaf begins to decay. Leaves
originate around the growing apex of the stem— they are never terminal
organs — and are expansions of the bark immediately below the origin of
regular leaf-buds, and appendages of the axis. They are sometimes opposite,
as in labiate plants, such as Coleus and Wood Betony ; alternate, as in Ivy and
the Common Garden Pea ; verticillate, as in the common Bedstraw (Galium),
&c. As I mentioned before, petioles are foot- stalks, and the petiole is the

i88i.] BOTANY FOR GARDENERS. 31

channel through which the vessels of the leaf are connected with those of the
stem : it is formed of one or more bundle of spiral vessels and woody tissue,
enclosed in a cellular integument. It is often absent, and then a leaf is called
sessile, as the well-known spotted Orchis. The leaves of the Common Primrose
(Primula vulgaris) are also sessile. When the petiole becomes dilated and
hollowed out at its upper end, the lamina being articulated with, and clos-
ing up its orifice, as in Sarracenia and Nepenthes, it is called a pitcher or
Ascidium ; if it is unclosed, and is a mere sac, as in the Utricularia, it is
termed amjnilla. Sometimes the petiole has no lamina, or is lengthened beyond
the lamina and retains its usual cylindrical or taper figure, but becomes long,
and twists spirally; such a petiole is called a tendril. Excellent examples of
tendrils are furnished in the Vine, Pea, and Clematis. The form of the simple
leaf is extremely variable. The leaves of the tall Convolvulus are cordate ; of the
Ground Ivy (Glechoma), reniform ; of the Mezereeou and Plantain, lanceolate ;
of the Daisy, spathulate ; of the Iris, ensifarm ; of the Sheep's Sorrel, sagittate ;
of the Arum, hastate ; of the Whortleberry, retuse ; of the Tulip-tree, truncate ;
of the Horse-chestnut, digitate; of the Passion-flower, ^aZ7?i«^e ; of the Christ-
mas Rose, pedate ; of the Water Milfoil, pectinate.

In reference to size, the leaf varies from a point to an expansion of immense
magnitude. The leaves of the Palmyra Palm (Borassus flabelliformis) will
each shelter twelve persons ; beneath a leaf of the Corypha umbraculifera, a
person on horseback can be completely sheltered ; and a leaf of the Pandanus
longifolia has often been grown 15 feet long in this country. Again, on the
contrary, leaves are almost as thin as a hair : native examples of this are fur-
nished by some of our aquatic Ranunculi. The leaves of Myriophyllums are also
extremely small. By the foregoing remarks it will thus be seen that in con-
sistency leaves vary from a gossamer tissue to the enormous ones of the Palms,
&c,, I have mentioned. A perfect plant consists almost entirely of leaf- forma-
tions, which are as follows: (a) The lower stem-leaf; (6) true stem-leaf; (c)
upper stem-leaf ; {d) calyx-leaf ; (e) flower-leaf ; (/) stamen-leaf, and {g) fruit-
leaf formations. An explanation of the above seven terms is necessary. The
first formation (a) is characterised in form by a broad base and limited height;
in substance by a frequently fleshy cartilaginous or leathery consistence, and a
dark colour. These characters show that this, the lower stem-leaf formation,
is wholly or partially excluded from the influence of light and air, and serves for
the fastening of the plant in most cases, {b) The second formation, or that of
the true stem-leaves, is generally a very extensive structure, characterised by
the multiplicity of its organs, which are properly called leaves, and are distin-
guished from the lower stem-leaves by a greater longitudinal extension, with
less breadth of base, expansion at the upper and contraction at the lower ends,
a more membranous nature, and a green colour. The third (c), or upper stem-
leaf formation, which consists principally of sheaths, bracts, glumes, &c., in
some degree similar to the first formation, but are distinguishable from that
formation by the much more delicate structure and narrower base ; they pre-
sent but little that is strikingly remarkable, in consequence of their very small
size. The fourth {d) formation is that of the calyx-leaf, or more popularly
known as sepals, and are much more massive, coarser, greener than the last
formation (c) ; they have a broader base, are equally destitute of any incision,
and rarely possess an expansion. The fifth (e), or the formation of the flower-
leaf or petals, is especially distinguished from all others by the delicacy of
its tissues, as well as by the purity and diversity of colours. Flower-leaves, or
petals, are generally longer than calyx-leaves, but narrower at the base ; in

32 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

some cases the corolla resembles a calyx, and vice vcrsd. The sixth (/) forma-
tion consists of the stamen-leaves, which are the smallest and most remarkable
leaves of the flower, with a decisive development of j^diole and small expan-
sion, which passes intD the bag-like enlargements of the lateral parts or
anthers. The last or seventh (fy) formation is that of the fruit-leaf or carpels,
which form the uppermost storey of plant-structure. Here (as in the last-
named formation) the leaf -like character is less obvious, principally because
the individual leaves of this formation are always crowded together more than
those of any other, and generally even grown together, forming a cavity in
which the axis terminates in numerous radiations ; they are thicker, larger, and
greener than the other leaves ; they rise from a smaller base, but expand im-
mediately, while the upper part contracts in a petiolar manner, forming the
style. These leaves have a longer duration than any others, and still continue
to be developed when the others are for the most part dead. In these leaves,
together with their enclosures, that in the first instance form what are termed
fruit - buds, from which afterwards the fruit is developed, various modifica-
tions of leaves are often seen; for instance, the "prickles" of the common
Dog-rose are merely modified leaves. William Egberts,

Penzance.

{To be continued.)

FLOWER - GARDENING : COST OF THE TWO SYSTEMS.

"When "J. S., "W. " advocates any particular theory or system of gardening, we
may be sure that he will fall foul of whoever may have the misfortune to dis-
agree with him. Six years ago "J. S., W." was obliged to plant a border with
hardy plants, which previously had been furnished with bedders, and since then
the latter have passed under a cloud, and the former attained to the position of
"J. S., W.'s" especial favourites. Not so long ago he was tilting against an
unfortunate who happened to give expression to the opinion that a hardy white
Phlox was not such a beautiful flower as Calanthe veratrifolia ; and now I have
put the proverbial foot into it, and called forth a statement as to the relative
cost of hardy-flower borders and that of ordinary bedders. Had I found that
it cost more labour to keep these poor bedders in first-class condition than it
did to keep hardy flowers, no harm would have accrued ; but, as my experience
led me to believe quite the contrary to be the truth, ' ' J, S. , W. " has had to put
himself to an amount of trouble on behalf of hardy flowers which perhaps not
another two men in the kingdom would have done. He has in this instance
found a statement in the article that irritated him very much, which I do not
think any one looking straight at it could have discovered. This is how he
commences his article: "Mr Brotherston refers to the comparative cost of the
bedding and herbaceous or hardy-flower gardening ; and the latter, according
to his way of thinking, is the more expensive. ' There is no use blinking the
matter,' he tells us, and I quite agree with him ; but if he can make it appear
that the bedding-out system, as practised at present, is less costly than the
other, or even as cheap, he will have to tell your readers a great deal more,"
&c. Compare this with what I did say: "And then remains the great
and final question — that of cost. Many are forming collections of hardy
plants who never give this question a thought; or, if they do, expect it
will be a saving. A few years back I re»marked that the keeping of
hardy plants in good order was no light matter, and was borne out in that

i88i.] FLOWER- GARDENING. 33

remark by Mr Sutherland. Since then I have had a great deal more
experience of them, with an extended practice in ordinary bedding and
leaf bedding, and 1 have no hesitation in saying that these borders will
require more labour to keep them in first-class order than either styles of
bedding alluded to. With our present experience, hardy plants will not
be tolerated unless they are well done ; and in pressing the claims of these
on gardeners, there is no use in blinking the matter of labour." For
several years back I have consistently advocated the claims of hardy plants,
and in the same article from which *'J. S,, W." made his mutilated quo-
tation, I praised them as highly as any one could. How far I go may be
seen in this sentence in the same article, "No garden should be without a
selection of good sorts." But it is no reason why, because hardy plants are
worth cultivating in every garden, that we should ostracise, from that moment,
masses of Geraniums, Calceolarias, and other bedders. Nor would I conceive
it to be quite honest to withhold my experience in the matter of cost of keep-
ing these hardy borders in the same style that our bedding borders and beds
are kept, without letting it be known that a gardener does nothing to relieve
the pressure of work during some of the busiest months of the year by sub-
stituting hardy Howers for bedders, but that, on the contrary, he would
thereby be heaping up more work to himself. At the same time, hardy flower-
ing-plants, when well selected, are in themselves so deserving of culture that
a garden without them wants a feature which it should not be long without.
Again, it is well to have ** J. S., W.'s " assurance as to the small amount of
outlay on which a border of these can be kept gay from February to November.
From an experience extending to a period of eight years under my own
management, and a further three years when in a subordinate position, I
should have deemed it impossible for any one who had a few years' experience
with these flowers to assert, as your correspondent does, that going over the
borders " about four times " is suflicient to spend in the way of keep and the
maintenance of a constant succession of flowers. Without taking into account
that part of the season up to July, during which time very little labour is
required to keep things tidy, I find from that time that it takes the borders
to be looked over every ten days at the least. Then, every spring there are
a certain number of plants, of a rank-growing nature, to pull to pieces and
replant. Double Primroses, for instance, require taking up and replanting
every year in order to keep them from dying out. There is also the pro-
pagating of Carnations and Picotees which cannot be left over two years to do
any good. We propagated 350 plants of one Picotee this year without count-
ing Clove and Self Carnations, and Anne Boleyn Pink, of which we cannot
get too many. It would be interesting to know what means your correspond-
ent takes at so small an outlay of labour to make good the gaps left by the
decayed foliage of such plants as Snowdrops, Crocuses, the various Narcissi,
Grape Hyacinths, Dondias, Dentarias, Scillas, Crown Imperials and other
Fritillarias, Eanunculus amplexicaulis. Iris reticulata, Adonis vernalis, San-
guinaria canadensis. Winter Aconites, and others. Then my experience tallies
exactly with that of the Editor, in that the best of the flowers which bloom
after midsummer are subjects which require to be staked. The Phlox is the
only late flowering-plant which "J. S., W." can call to mind, and Delphiniums
amongst summer flowers. Can he intend the many species and varieties of
the tall-growing Bell-flowers, of Lychnises, Monardias, Sun -flowers, Erigerons,
Lythrums, Salvias, Lobelias, Aconitums, (Enotheras, Adenophoras, Scabious,
Pentstemons, strong - growing Lilies, &c., and the many fine Michael-

34 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

mas Daisies, to be excluded, and only dwarf - growing subjects admitted?
There is also this to be borne in mind, where dwarf-growing Alpine species
are grown — namely, their tendency to go olF without leaving a trace behind,
excepting the label which tells where the plants used to be. It is consequently
necessary to have a duplicate collection in frames to make sure of preserving
a stock of these disappointing subjects. Of course there is the alternative of
not growing these at all, and it is advisable for gardeners not to do so as a
rule ; but it is only fair to bear in mind that the collections trotted out from
time to time in ' The Garden ' have an attached stock in frames, and some-
times houses of a more expensive character.

Turning now to what your correspondent has to say as to his experience
with tender bedders, and the figures he has so kindly placed at the disposal of
your readers, a criticism of which he challenges, permit me in the first place
to point out the absurdly large number of plants he employed to fill the border
he discusses under the two systems. Allow me to quote the whole of what he
says on the numbers of plants raised: ''We had to vary the style of the
border every year ; but on the average, the labour and cost were about the
same. Sometimes the border was ribboned and sometimes panelled, &c. Our
plan, then as now, was to plant autumn-struck Geraniums ' the length of the
trowel ' apart each way, or about 9 inches — not more ; and such things as
Lobelias, Calceolarias, Verbenas, &c., were planted about 6 inches apart ;
while succulents were set nearly touching each other. One way and another,
front and back, at least 2400 Geraniums were required, and more when the
groundwork was composed of Mangles's variegated Geranium, or other kinds,
besides other 3 or 4 rows perhaps. In addition to these, at least 1200 Calceo-
larias were used, as Aurantia multiflora and Aurea floribunda, and as much
Verbena venosa between these and the Geraniums. This left still near the half
of the border to fill, which was perhaps filled up with Lobelia panelled with
Geraniums, or vice versd, &c. The Lobelias, we know, came to about 8000, and
in front of these are sometimes planted a row of Echeveria secunda glauca.
Crimson King Verbena, or any other suitable edging at the time. The total
number of plants generally used was about 13,000." The above statement,
though somewhat mixed up and wanting in plainness of expression, obviously
means that the border which we were told in a previous sentence was 360 feet
long by 10 feet wide, took 13,000 plants to fill it, or nearly 4 to every square
foot ; that, occasionally, after more than half of the border was filled, 8000
Lobelias were panelled with Geraniums in a portion of that front space, and
that a suitable edging was used in addition ! That all ordinary bedding-
plants were set out at 6 inches apart each way, with the exception of Ger-
aniums, which were planted 9 inches apart each way. Now, let us analyse
these figures. A border 360 feet in length will require 720 plants at 6 inches
apart in the row; 18 such rows will require 12,960 plants. Allowing a space
of 4| inches next the box to the first line, and a space of 4^ inches between
the back edge and the backmost row of plants, there remains, of the 10-feet
border, 17 spaces of Qh inches each between the 18 rows. Next let us take the
instance of the 8000 Lobelias (which were panelled with Geraniums in "near
the half of the border "), and the suitable edging. " Near the half of the
border" would be a little less than 5 feet wide, perhaps 6 inches less, but
5 feet will do. Planted at 6 inches in the row, or 720 plants, these 8000
Lobelias would fill 11 rows of 6 inches wide, and cover a total space of 360 feet
by 5 feet. There remains this query for more ingenious arithmeticians than I
can pretend to be, to find where the Geraniums which were panelled with

i88i.] FLOWER - GARDENING. 35

these 8000 Lobelias were put, as also the precise position in the border the
"suitable edging" was placed. Then there remains the question of distances
between the plants — 9 inches for Geraniums, and'6 inches for other kinds of
plants. Here again I confess to be somewhat at variance with the above
mode of arithmetic. Where is the utility of planting Geraniums which are
9 to 15 inches across, at a distance of 9 inches from each other, and allow
them six weeks in which to meet ; or of planting Calceolarias of an average
size of 6 inches across, at 6 inches each way, and allow them ten weeks to do
it in ? Of course the plants for that particular border might have been grown
on a principle of great refinement, and were not allowed to grow beyond a
certain size before being planted out ; but I do not think that gardeners at
all act on that principle in a general way.

Before leaving the 13,000 bedders, we will compare the number of hardy
flowers required to stock the same border. For hardy plants £35 were spent,
or "close upon" that sum. "Most of the plants came from Mr Parker's,
of Tooting, at the prices marked in the catalogue." Sixpence per plant
used to be the lowest price quoted in Mr Parker's list, and we may take the
average at ninepence each. That gives, allowing a percentage of "gratis"
plants, 950. " The most" was made of these, and with the addition of what
was "propagated" from "our own small stock," and the further "addition
of a few annuals," the border which swallowed up such an unconscionable lot
of tender bedders was complete, though why annuals should be classed as
herbaceous plants it is difficult to say. It will also be noted, as the Editor
did on the appended notes to "J. S., W.'s" article, that all mention of hardy
bedders is omitted. This is hardly fair, when such plants as Violas, variegated
Grasses, Polemonium variegatum, the dark -leaved Ajuga, Golden - feather
Pyrethrum, Sedum spectabile, and others, are to be found in almost every
garden. As to cost of production, "J. S., W.," will not lose anything at 5s.
per 100. Geraniums are the only expensive article to produce, and a great
deal less than £8 per 1000 will produce these. Calceolarias are more than
covered at 15s. per 1000 ; Lobelias, Ageratums, and other tender plants, at 20s.
per 1000. The cost of hardy bedders, in most cases, depends on how many
pieces a man can break up in a day. Now I do not want to make out a case
either way, as I think just as much of a border of mixed hardy herbaceous
plants as I do of a bed of Geraniums ; but from a little calculation I have
made, I find that "J. S., "W.'s" border could be planted with 6500 plants, and
that their cost would not exceed £10 for the lot, or 3s. per 100. Take the
whole quantity of plants required for a flower-garden, and much less would
suffice for even an extravagant "bedding man."

Now let us take a nurseryman's prices, and see what the cost of the two
systems would be were a stock of each to be bought. I have a quotation
before me for 5000 plants, 1500 of them to be Geraniums — of which 500
are gold and silver variegated, — the remainder "Calceolarias, Lobelias, Ver-
benas, Ageratum, &c, " These, furnished next May, fine plants out of single
pots, are £4, 10s. per 1000 ; out of store pots, £2, 5s. per 1000. Remember,
these are all good plants. Well, then, here is a quotation from a nursery-
man, who makes hardy plants a specialty ; his rate is £3, 10s. per 100 in
quantity, Ms oivn selection, and does not include the best sorts. A selection
of finer sorts is £7, 10s, per 100, and of course does not include such things as
Pseonias, the rarer hardy Lilies, &c. If we follow the directions given by the
persons who have taken hardy flowers under their own special care, a hardy
border must be planted so thickly that the taller plants will support each

36 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

other, and all bulbs will have a carpet of dwarf plants through which they are
to spring. It would take nothing short of "J. S., W.'s" 13,000, taking the
above mode of planting, and allowing from three to twelve bulbs for a clump,
to fill the ground the first year as completely as the same number of bedding-
plants would do. These gentlemen will perhaps be able to say something on
the cost of furnishing a border under the two systems, allowing 13,000 plants
in each case, the one at a nurseryman's price of 4s. 6d. per 100, and the other
at 66s. 8d. per 100. Before closing this question of cost, I would just say that
I know the cost of bedding-plants in one of the largest establishments in the
three kingdoms, and where some 200,000 plants are used, is reckoned at one
farthing per plant, or 2s. Id. per 100. I have taken up too much of your space
already, but allow me just to say further, that I consider the cost of produc-
tion, as raised by " J. S., W.," has very little to do with the matter from a gar-
dener's point of view. To us the question is whether we should rid ourselves
entirely of ordinary bedders, and only find room for hardy flowers, or whether
we should adopt the common-sense plan of finding a place for each, no matter
whether the cost of production or the cost of keep should in either case be
more than we like. Strawberries in March or new Grapes in April, French
Beans and Cucumbers in February, are not worth the cost of production. In
the same sense it does not pay to mow grass once in ten days, or hoe walks
once a fortnight, or sweep up autumn leaves every morning. The whole of
"J. S,, W.'s" argument is a question of the same kind.

E. P. Brotherstox.

[We do not think it advisable to devote more space to this discussion, for,
after all, cost is no argument against a system of flower-gardening, or any other
phase or branch of horticulture owners of gardens may choose to spend their
money on, as being to their taste, and most suitable for their places — just as
one may derive most pleasure from, and spend money on Orchids, and his
neighbour's fancy may lead him to spend on Alpines or Auriculas, &c. It is
the fact that so much has been said of the expensiveness of the one, and the
wonderful cheapness of the other, that led to our remarks in November. It
entirely depends on how either system is gone about. If hardy herbaceous
flower-gardening is to be done as well as tender bedding has generally been done,
and a constant succession of bloom to be kept up over a given area, in con-
junction with the absence of untidiness for five or six mouths of the year, then
we maintain it cannot be any cheaper than tender bedding, while its first cost,
if the same area be planted, is many times more costly. To stick a few hun-
dreds of hardy herbaceous plants widely apart into a border, and make up
the spaces between them with tender hardy and half-hardy annuals, biennials,
and other plants, and call it hardy herbaceous gardening, is not correct, and
very different from a border kept goAj by means of a mixture of hardy herbaceous
plants alone, and should not be called a herbaceous border. To call it the
mixed border of hardy herbaceous and tender plants would be its proper de-
nomination. Some writers would appear to wish for nothing so much as the
total extinction of the bedding system, and have it replaced with an ideal sys-
tem not yet to be found. Now what we advocate is a curtailment of the one,
and a slight extension of the other — the extent in either direction depending
on the time the owner resides at his country-seat ; and we think nine-tenths
of our readers will agree with our idea of the matter. Let us have both systems,
in proportions depending on circumstances, and away with the furious tirade
against flowers in masses. — Ed.]

i88i.l AMONG THE CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 37

AMONG THE CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

Few flowers have so rapidly "come to tlie front "as the Chrysanthemums,
and none more fully deserve their popularity. They are easily grown, and
the species (Sinense) comprises a wonderful variety of forms and colours,
which are at their best when flowers generally are very scarce — for this
reason alone deserving all that can be written in their favour. They are
especially suited for town and suburban culture, as witness the large collec-
tions formed in the very heart of London — viz., the Temple Gardens, and
the innumerable well-grown collections in the metropolitan area. The Chry-
santhemum Shows, which are fast on the increase, have done much to heighten
the love for Chrysanthemums, and also to demonstrate to what perfection
they may be grown. Anything like a full report of even a few of the best of
these would be out of place in the 'Gardener,' and in this communication
reference will be made to the primary exhibits rather than to exhibitors.
Concerning the collections in the Temple Gardens, which by the kindness of
the Benchers were open to the inspection of all comers, we must confess to a
feeling of disappointment. It may be said, "What could be expected from
plants grown in the city of London?" Not much, certainly, by those who
know what a miserable atmosphere there is to contend with ; but we were
led by glowing reports in contemporaries to expect greater things. As a
group they were certainly very effective ; but the blooms individually would
bear no comparison with those to be seen in numbers of smaller private col-
lections. In one instance, indeed, the whole collection was below mediocrity.
They were grown too weakly early in the season. Here, as in many other
instances, the plants are grown with a single stem, the head consisting of
three or four shoots, each carrying one large bloom. This admits of a great
number being grown ; and as they are grouped closely, a very effective floral
bank is formed. Of course those trained for exhibition are trained either as
standards, pyramids, or dwarfs ; but in either case, unless well done, they
present a very miserable appearance. This was strongly exemplified at the
London Aquarium Show, though it must be admitted that the specimens were
perched up on a ridiculously high platform, so that even those that were
well grown presented a rather undignified appearance. From what we hear,
the finest dwarf-trained specimens seen this season were exhibited at the
Birmingham Show, the exhibitors being Messrs Stacey, Crook, and Denning,
who received the awards in the order named. They were certainly smaller
than several of the giants staged at the Aquarium (some of which were 8 or 9
feet in diameter) and at other Shows, but were much more profusely flowered,
carrying in some instances fully 250 well -formed blooms. The varieties
suitable for training are rather limited in number, as the majority are too
stifi" in growth. Those that are adapted for this purpose are Mrs G. Rundle,
and the two sports from it, Mrs Dixon and G. Glenny (these are to be seen
in nearly every group). Lady Talfourd, Lady Slade, Prince Alfred, Fingal,
Bronze Jardin des Plants, White Venus, Lady Hardinge, Empress of India,
Prince of Wales, Eve, Golden Beverley, Dr Sharpe, Aureum multiflorum, Mr
Brunlees, Julie Lagravere, Hero of Stoke Newington, and Mrs Haliburton.
Every schedule includes classes for trained Pompones ; but, as a rule, they are
not very efiective. Those varieties usually shown are the White, Lilac, and
Golden Cedo Nulliis, Mdlle. Marthe, Bob, Fanny, Antonius, Salamon, Helena,
St Michael, Aurora Boreale, and Brilliant, Good Anemone-flowered Pompones
are Antonius, Calliope, Mr Astie, Sidonia astarte. Firefly, Dick Turpin,

38 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

Marie Stuart, and ^Miss Xightingale. The classes for cut-blooms are the most
popular with the growers, as they are invariably well filled — some of the
exhibits being really extraordinarily good. The way they are shown unfor-
tunately mitigates greatly against them. Complaints are often made of the
formality of the approved method of exhibiting cut-Roses ; but they compare
most favourably with the Chrysanthemums, as, in addition to their own good
foliage, they have a groundwork of beautiful Moss, whereas the Chrysanthe-
mum has nothing but the green boards to show them up. Why not use Moss
in this case also ? Real lovers of this flower, doubtless, do not heed the sur-
roundings, but there are many who do. Although good growers are numer-
ous in the south, the premier collection of cut - blooms of the year was
undoubtedly that which gained Mr Sunnington of Liverpool the Champion
Challenge Yase at the Kingston and Surbiton Show. It must be admitted
that the Liverpool growers are somewhat atmospherically favoured : at the
same time, there is no doubt that Mr Sunnington is thoroughly "at home" with
the Chrysanthemum, and for this reason his selection is instructive. Of
incurved varieties he staged Novelty, Inner Temple, Beauty, "White Venus,
Mrs Dixon, Jardin des Plants, Empress of India, Golden Empress of India,
Prince Alfred, Queen of England, John Salter, Sir Stafford Carey, Mrs Heale,
Lord Derby, Venus, Hero of Stoke Newington, Mrs G. Rundle, Princess of
Wales, Nil Desperandum, Lady Hardinge, White Beverley, Prince of Wales,
George Glenny, and White Venus ; and of Japanese varieties. La Nymphe,
Comtesse de Beauregard, Fleur Parfait, L'lncomparable, Apollo, Fulgore,
Laciniatum, La Frissure, Baronne de Frailly, Nuit d'Automne, Mdlle.
Moulix, Chang, Cry Kang, Meg Merrilees, Elaine, the Sultan, Bismarck,
Peter the Great, Soleil Levant, Hero of Magdala, Fair Maid of Guernsey,
Arlequin, M. Crousse, and Fulton. To the former selection may well be
added Lady Talfourd, Mrs Haliburton, Mr Brunlees, Isabella Bott, Miss
Mary Morgan, Dr Brock, Bella Donna, Golden Eagle, Mr Gladstone, Princess
of Teck, Lady Slade, Baron Beust, Here ward, and Yellow Perfection. Other
Japanese varieties that have been well shown are Magnum Bonum, Hiver
Fleur, Gloire de Toulouse, Grandiflora, Striatum, Triomphe du Nord, the
Daimio, Red Dragon, Dr Masters, Red Gauntlet, Meteor, Purpureum album,
James Salter, Bouquet Fait, the Mikaido, and Oracle. On account of their
greater novelty the stands of Japanese varieties command the largest share
of attention, and no private collection can be called complete without a good
selection of them being included. They are too stiff in growth for training ;
but grown as standards they are wonderfully attractive, and being rather late-
iiowering, help to prolong the season considerably. Those incurved varieties
recommended for training into specimens are the best for growing for cut-
blooms and decorative purposes ; and probably no four more useful varieties
exist than the "Rundle family "and Julie Lagravere, and should be grown
in great quantities if the demand is large.

" A Southern Coerespondent.

CATTLEYA LABI AT A AT BOTHWELL CASTLE.
A FINE specimen of this magnificent Orchid has recently flowered at
Bothwell Castle. It had 22 blooms open on it at once. Three spikes
had 4, three had 3 blooms each ; and one leaf, where there was no ap-
pearance of a stem or spike, showed 2 blooms, but brought only one

i88i.] STORRS HALL. 39

to perfection. We should be glad to hear if a specimen of this Cat-
tleya has ever been known to produce so many flowers. A more beauti-
ful Orchid than this, with its 22 flowers, could scarcely be conceived ;
and it is one of the many fine specimens Mr Turnbull has grown with
the most ordinary accommodation — at one time a shelf over a flue which
heated a fruiting Pine-stove. Probably the finest Miltonia spectabilis
ever produced was grown over this flue thirty-six years ago. If we
remember correctly it had over 130 blooms open at once. D. T.

STORRS HALL.

Stores, the charming Westmoreland seat of the Rev. Thomas Staniforth, is
situated about two miles south-west of Bowness, on the margin of the beauti-
ful Lake Windermere, and is by far the most princely residence in the whole of
the Lake district, standing, as it does, in a sylvan vale, surrounded on all
sides by its own property to a considerable distance, save on the side it is
bounded by the crystal and placid water of the "Queen of English lakes."
The mansion is a commodious and well-finished pile of architecture, and is
enclosed from the lake on the north-west side by a miscellaneous plantation
of Conifers, Evergreens, and a good collection of Rhododendrons. From the
south front there is a capital view of the lower part of the lake and the
adjacent hills — a scene most beautiful, not in many places to be surpassed :
the greensward, the rippling waters, and the heather- clad hills, in glowing
harmony together, are sights that poets never tire to describe nor painters to
depict ; and these are scenes familiar to all who may visit this tranquil and
picturesque habitation in this delightful vale of '*'bonnie Westmoreland,"

The gardens at this place call for more than a passing notice. Their
arrangement and tidiness reflect great credit on Mr Evans, Mr Staniforth's
able gardener, and fully vindicate his abilities as a thorough master of his
profession. Their situation, in many cases, adds much to their lustre ; but in
no way are all their beauties to be attributed s.olely to nature, for the ingenious
work of art has aided nature in making Storrs a varied scene of charms that
other places of higher pretensions may justly envy. The grounds are very
interesting, and in complete unison with the surrounding country : gentle
undulations and pleasing retreats, venerable old rocks arrayed in vivid
garments of green Moss, stately trees, and secluded walks, are met with here.

Along the side of the lake runs an enjoyable walk, winding frequently to
the water's edge, and in a few places hid from the lake by an irregular planta-
tion of trees and shrubs intermixed with large stones, so characteristic of
this district, before which the giants of old must inevitably have succumbed :
amongst those may be found, flourishing in true luxuriance, Osmunda regalis
and Lily of the Valley.

The flower-garden is neatly laid out and tastefully planted. Here is a
long herbaceous border containing a good collection of Phloxes, and in their
season are a sight that lovers of this grand old favourite would go a long way
to see. Amongst them are to be found the newest varieties, and older sorts
of popular merit, and about the middle or end of August are a perfect mass of
flowers. Here also is a unique specimen of the Fern-leaved Beech (Fagus
asplenifolia), its trunk measuring in circumference (3 feet from the ground) 9
feet, while that of the area covered by its branches is 60 yards, and for sym-
metry and form o£ growth is a perfect model.

40 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

The houses are next most important, in which the lover of exotic and rare
plants can with interest spend a little time. On entering the lowest of the
bottom range is an excellent specimen of Lapageria alba in full vigour, and
delighting in its present position. It is trained on a trellis suspended a couple
of feet from the glass, the dimensions of which are 24 feet by 8 feet, and is
thickly covered with strong young shoots, and 520 expanded blooms on it at
present. It has only been planted six years. Here is a nice plant of L. rosea
and Rosea superba. On the back wall are two hale old Lemon-trees that are
very prolific, and are trained on a trellis against the wall, thickly covering it,
measuring 26 feet by 12. Adjoining are the vineries, — the early house, Black
Hamburg; and the late or succession house filled with Lady Downes and Mrs
Pince — each house measuring 36 feet by 18. The Peach-house is also in this
range — a "lean-to," like the vineries, and of the same dimensions. The
varieties are Royal George and Noblesse ; also the Solway Peach, from which
has been gathered fruit weighing 10^ oz., and measuring 11| inches in circum-
ference. In this house is a very good collection of British Ferns, comprising
some good forms of Scolopendriums, Athyriums, Lastra3as, Polypodiums, &c.,
amongst which a lover of those plants would find something to his interest.

The Camellia-house comes next. The plants seem truly at home ; all are
planted out and progressing favourably. About half-a-dozen of the larg-
est plants are 16 feet in height and 10 feet in diameter. The varieties are
alba-pleno, Lady Hume's Blush, Valtevareda, Coletti ; imbricata, Marchion-
ess of Exeter, Donckelaarii, Saccoi nova, Targioni, and Mathotiana ; all well
covered with buds. In this house is growing a grand piece of Asplenium mar-
inum, the admiration of many eminent Fernists, with fronds measuring 20
inches in length; and in a frame is a fine plant of Todea superba, 3 feet across ;
alsoTrichomanes radicans, Hymenophyllum Tunbridgense, and Disa grandiflora.
This is a very lofty structure : and on the roof, high above the Camellias, is a
plant of "Wistaria rosea that blooms most profusely ; its myriads of lavender-
coloured bunches of blossom make a very efifective show in the early spring.
The flowers are larger and more fully developed than when grown out of
doors.

On the other side of the kitchen-garden are the other houses. On entering
the large stove the eye soon rests on a splendid specimen of Adiantum Far-
leyense, 8^ feet in diameter, and flourishing amazingly ; also a nice plant of
A. gracillimum, 3 feet across, arranged together among some noble plants of
Cycas revoluta, Pandanus Veitchii, Cocos Weddleyana, Aralias, Curculigos,
Marantas, Crotons, Eucharis, and a grand plant of Anthurium Schertzerianum,
6^ feet through. This plant, unlike many, is not a collection of single crowns
potted together to obtain a specimen, but is one solid mass of crowns united
together by years of steady growth. A few other varieties, such as Palmeri,
Wardii, and Williamsii, add a little variation to this grand exotic, all of
which are progressing admirably. On the roof of this house is trained Tpoma^a
Horsfallise, that blooms profusely and lends a charm to the gaiety of the house ;
also on the roof is Allamanda Hendersonii and cathartica, Cissus discolor, and
Passiflora princeps and gossyppifolia. The latter is very rare and interesting ;
it was brought to this place from Borneo. The flower is similar to most of its
species, but smaller, and of a pure white colour, the blooms not much bigger
than a shilling, which are expanded only in the early morning. In a smaller
stove, devoted to young plants, are some good things in the way of Crotons,
Dracaenas, Gardenias, &c. There are upwards of twenty-four varieties of Cro-
tons grown : most noticeable are Disraeli, Lord Derby, lacteus, Mortii, irregu-

i88i.] STORRS HALL. 41

laris, Youngii, Weismanni, ovalifolius, angustifolius, and several others,
arranged together with good effect amongst a lot of nice plants of Reedia
glaucescens, Pavonia Wiotii, Phyllanthus roseo pictum, and a host of others.
Conspicuous in this is a fine plant of Gymnogramma Martensi, and Cheilanthes
elegans. The former has fronds from 3|- to 4 feet in length, and measures
7i feet through; and the latter, 4 feet in diameter, a capital specimen of this
pretty Fern. In the Cool-Orchid house are to be found some good varieties of
Cypripediums, looking quite at home. Most prominent are Harrissianum, bar-
batum, majus, Sedeni, Maulei, venustum, Yeitchii, Hookerii, Schlimii alba,
Pearcei, Nevium, and many others; also some of the best sorts of Odonto-
glossums, Oncidiums, Lselias, Cattleyas, Masdevallias, Maxillarias, Coelogynes,
Dendrobiums, &c., all clean and healthy. Amongst East Indian Orchids are
some good plants of Phalsenopsis grandiflora, amabilis, Schilleriana, and Lud-
demanniana, Aerides Fieldingii, Cattleya Dowiana, Saccolabium giganteum,
Reedii guttatum, ampullaceum, violaceum, and Blumeii, Angrseceum sesqui-
pedale, and a beautiful plaot of Vanda cterula, an excellent variety, with extra
large flowers. To go more minutely into this class would be a lengthy task,
so we will turn for a moment to the collection of Azaleas. Upwards of 100
varieties are grown, all good specimen-plants, trained in pyramidal form, and
measuring from 6 feet high by 4 feet at the base downwards to half these
dimensions — together with a host of smaller well - shaped plants, amongst
which are some of the best varieties in cultivation, all of which are well
trained, and denoting the exercise of experienced labour in their culture and
formation, and when in full bloom fully compensate for the time spent in
attending to their many requirements, with a vast sheet of flowers of various
hues.

Amaryllis-growers will find at Storrs a great treat, should they be fortunate
enough to visit it during the period that most of the home-raised seedlings are
in bloom, as doubtless many are aware that not many gentlemen are more
enthusiastic in their culture than the proprietor of Storrs, and few more suc-
cessful in their hybridising than Mr Evans ; for on entering another house
specially erected for their cultivation, are to be found the leading varieties of
the day, comprising the newest and best-named sorts, and some of the finest
seedlings that skilled crossing can produce. The one called after this place —
viz., Storrs Beauty — is a marvel of excellence, and a sufficient reward for the
most sanguine cultivator for the time spent in bringing forth so superior an
Amaryllis. In a bed in another house are upwards of 200 seedlings of the
best crosses ; and should this batch give as much satisfaction as others have
hitherto done from the hands of the same grower, Storrs will henceforth be
the premier home of Amaryllis-growing. In another large span-roofed struc-
ture that serves the purpose of show-house, are some good plants of Aphelexis,
Macrantha purpurea, Araucaria excelsa, Eriostemons, &c. ; and trained on the
roof is Lapageria rosea, Rhodochiton volubile, Abutilon vexillarium, Habro-
thamnus elegans, and many fine old Fuchsias trained up the rafters, — all of
which add to the look of the house, in combination with all the season's bloom
in succession. Now its stages are embellished with one class, and in a few
weeks hence with another — never failing all the season through to be taste-
fully adorned. Close by is another range of three-quarter span-roofed houses,
one of which is devoted to wintering bedding-plants and Melon-growing in
summer ; the other is a Cucumber and propagating house, and is particularly
adapted for its requirements.
The frame-ground is in close proximity to the houses, and is neat and shel-

42 THE GARDENER. [Jan.

tered. In this little department is to be seen Rendle's system of glazing with-
out putty ; also Parham's, — both of which answer their purpose very well.

The bothy, fruit-room, potting-sheds. Mushroom-house, and stoke-holes are
situated on the north side of the kitchen-garden. The boilers used are Ste-
phen's improved Trentham, and two old saddles, that work most efficiently.

In conclusion, I am compelled to say all ardent horticulturists would enjoy
a visit to Storrs, and would be courteously received by Mr Evans. I may also
add, Mr Evans got his preliminary training at Enville under Mr Craw, and
subsequently at Chatsworth during the period of Mr Taplin's superintendence.

James MopwTon.

DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION".

The first meeting of this newly formed association took place on the evening
of Friday, December 3d. There was a large attendance. The president, Mr
Doig, Rossie Priory Gardens, occupied the chair, and delivered an interesting
address on the progress of horticulture. He went on to show that there
was, however, still room for improvement, and for an association such as had
just been formed. He had sometimes heard it said that they ought not to
permit all they said and did to go abroad to the public, as in that way every
one would become acquainted with the secrets of the trade ; but such ideas as
these had long ago been exploded. It was not his intention that evening to
treat upon any subject specially, but rather to indicate some of the many
subjects which might be discussed at their meetings. It was very desirable
that the nature of the different soils, and their adaptability for the growth of
the various plants which came under the care of the horticulturist, should be
considered. The winter digging of soils might form not an uninteresting
paper, whether in all cases it was desirable or beneficial. The different kinds
of manure and their proper application was a subject of paramount import-
ance. The matter of seed and seed-sowing demanded careful inquiry, and the
seasons for seed-sowing should form part of the information to be derived from
their meetings. He suggested for the consideration of local nurserymen
whether it would not be for their benefit, as well as for the benefit of horti-
culturists in general, to persevere in eliminating from their catalogues the
great amount of unnecessary varieties of the different genera. The theory
that Potatoes became exhausted after several years' growth had been brought
very prominently before the public of late. The fact that they still had the
ash-leaved Kidney as vigorous and prolific as it was forty years ago, pointed
to the duty of raisers of seedlings to cultivate early varieties of good keeping
(qualities, so that they might be ripe and stored before the disease got hold of
them. It was not to be wondered at that Potatoes had succumbed to the
treatment they had received for many years. How often did they see them
planted in May, at the time they ought to be breaking through the ground,
with all the first sprouts broken off, and sometimes the second, and thrown
amongst fermenting manure in such a crippled condition, that, in their efforts
at recuperation the season was so far advanced that the wet in autumn found
them in a soft unripened state, and an easy prey to disease ? Instead of saying
Potatoes were exhausted, it would be nearer the truth to say they were de-
stroyed through neglect and want of attention on the part of the cultivator.
The rotation of cropping the kitchen-garden was another thing worthy of
being brought before the Association, as was also the transplanting of trees.

I88l.

CALENDAR.

43

Although the latter operation was principally mechanical, yet failures often
occurred from want of scientific knowledge of the proper principles which
should guide them. Mr Doig next drew attention to the subject of pruning,
on which, he said, there existed a considerable diversity of opinion ; to the
cultivation of stove and greenhouse plants, and the culture of fruit under
glass. The Pine-apple was not now cultivated so much in this country as
formerly. The rapid communication between different parts of the world
enabled the growers, where no glass was required, to produce Apples so much
cheaper, and often of superior quality, for the greater part of the year, as
almost to drive the home-produce out of the market. After a reference to
the growing of Peaches, Figs, and other fruits, flowers, and vegetables, and
to the manner in which the debates should be conducted, the President con-
cluded by expressing the hope that the meetings of the Association would help
to stir up and foster a desire for self-improvement, which ought to form a part
of every man's ambition.

Mr Edward Moir, Newport, then read an able paper on ' ' The Alpine Flora
of Forfarshire." In the course of his remarks, he pointed out that the hills
and dales of the county contained many of the rarest plants of our British
flora. The rare Lychnis alpinus, Saussurea alpina, Maulgedium alpinum.
Astragalus alpinus, and the still more rare Oxytropis campestris, all found a
home in the Clova mountains. There, by mountain streams and rugged scars,
nearly all the genera common to an Alpine flora were to be found. Dried
specimens of nearly every plant named were exhibited, which added greatly
to the interest of the meeting.

It was intimated that the business for next meeting would consist of papers
on "A Trip to the Rocky Mountains," by Mr William Stewart, nurseryman,
Dundee ; and on " Hardy Border Flowers," by Mr Thomas Miln, The Gardens,
Linlathen.

CTaUntrar*

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

In commencing the Calendar for
another year, we propose not to take
up so much space with every little
item of detail as has been devoted
to it in former years, but will dwell
more at length, month by month, on
some important point of culture under
each heading. At the same time,
there is no intention of passiug over
the leading directions applicable to
each month.

Pines. — It has been our practice for
many years to keep our whole stock
of Pine plants as thoroughly at rest
as possible from the middle of Novem-
ber till after the first week of Febru-
ary, There may be exceptional cir-
cumstances in which this rule may
be departed from with benefit ; such,
for instance, as when, from any cause,
the stock of plants of any size are less
or more backward than is desired.

These, if kept near the glass, and
plunged thinly in a pit with a direct
south aspect, may be kept growing
all winter in a temperature of 65°,
with air according to the state of
the weather ; but, excepting plants
swelling fruit, and those being start-
ed into fruit, the more they are at
rest the better we have always
found the ultimate results. In cold
weather all young stock and plants
that are full -sized should not have
more heat than 55°, and when mild,
60°. The less fire-heat applied, the
less water required ; and the less water
required to keep the plants in health
the better. The plunging material
used for Pines may not be of the very
greatest consequence, but some ma-
terials are much more convenient than
others for the purpose of plunging.
In houses where the bottom-heat is

44

THE GARDENER.

[Jan.

got from hot- water pipes in air-cham-
bers, we have used Oak-leaves, spent
bark, sifted ashes, and sawdust. All
but the sifted ashes answer very well,
and we never gave it a second trial.
The operation of plunging in Oak-
leaves is threefold more laborious than
in bark or sawdust, and there is the
constant bother of making them up,
for they shrink from the pots and
allow the heat to escape without
doing any good. The bark we have
always thought a material that Pines
liked ; and not much can be said
against it, except that it is difficult to
get in many places, rots quickly, and
breeds worms and wood-lice at a great
rate. We have used sawdust in our
fruiting - house for some years, and
know of nothing against it. It looks
clean, is easily plunged in, keeps close
to the pots, and does not subside much
in a year. This season we have had
as finely swelled Pines plunged in it as
could be desired; some of the fruits
ran to 9 lb., others 8 lb. , and one fruit,
seven pips deep only, swelled till it
weighed 8 lb. all but one ounce— the
heaviest seven-pip Pine we have ever
grown. Sawdust is easily got in most
places, lasts two years without breed-
ing fungi, but if kept for a third year
it becomes a trouble in the matter of
fungi. A stock of soil should be got
in readiness this month for shifting
all plants that require it, in February.
A rather light loam, with all the finer
particles either beaten or sifted out of
it, is best for Pines. This, with an
8-inch potful of bone - meal, and a
handful or two of dry soot to each
barrow-load of soil, is the mixture we
prefer. Keep a watchful eye on early
Queens expected to start this and
early next month. Whenever the
fruit is detected in the centre of each
plant, let it have as much water at
85° as will wet the whole ball, but
do not be over-free in watering till
the plants show fruit. Keep the
temperature at 70° at night, when mild
the bottom-heat at 90° ; when cold let
the heat be 5° less. Keep all young
stock quiet for another month at least.
As soon as fully swelled fruits show
signs of colouring, and are moderately
damp at the root, do not give any
more water this month till the fruit
are cut, or they may begin to decay
in the centre before being fully ripe.
Vines. — In the forcing of Vines to

produce fruit in May (and it is little
use having them earlier in these times
of long-keeping late sorts), avoid above
everything, as the greatest evil, high
night-temperatures. Let the state of
the weather decide the heat on any
given night. Fixing a temperature to
be worked up to all weathers is only
a waste of fuel, and a waste of vital
force in the plants. If from any cause
rapid forcing is called for, let it be
carried on by day, when the natural
temperature is highest, and under the
consolidating influence of light and
more or less air. In a cold night do
not be afraid to let the heat for
Vines in leaf descend to 55°, rather
than have singeing hot pipes to keep it
at 60° or 65° ; of course, if a very mild
night, either of these figures may be
wrought up to safely. The proper time
to force is when Nature forces — by day;
and she arranges her hottest nights
to be when there is the shortest inter-
val of darkness ; so that, as the day
lengthens and the sun strengthens, the
temperature of the night can be kept
higher with less fire-heat — and, of
course, so it can by day, when some
heat can be trapped and stored into
the night. In starting pot -Vines in
December and January, it is some-
times necessary to do so with more
heat than is good for them after
they are fairly started. The buds of
Vines never before forced are shy to
start, and the better ripened the
Vines are the harder they are to start.
60° may be applied both night and
day till the buds move. The tops of
the Vines should be bent down so as
to be in the coldest stratum of air, or
they are apt to burst and leave the
rest too much in the rear. But as soon
as all are fairly started, force by day
and give comparative rest at night.
We look upon this as a cardinal rule
in all forcing of fruits or flowers, be-
cause it is Nature's rule. Now that
the bottling system of Grapes has
proved a successful one, there is no
necessity for having Grapes on the
Vines after the New Year. It is of
great advantage to the Vmes to get
rid of their load, and to be thoroughly
rested in a cool temperature, with
plenty of fresh air. We could never
see our way to drawing the water out
of pipes and boilers, and letting Vines
and vineries have all the winter frosts.
In some cases this is practised to let

i88i.]

CALENDAR.

45

the frost kill vermin. The vermin
that infest Vines that cannot take
care of themselves in a time of
frost we have yet to discover. In
other cases the saving of fuel is the
consideration — a very questionable
saving ; for we have seen the joints of
hot-water pipes split when caught by
frost ; and we have known the Vines
themselves hurt, to say nothing of the
bad effects of frost on plaster, brick-
work, &c. We prefer keeping the
water in the pipes, throwing the
vinery open at all ventilators and
doors, letting wind blow through it,
and lighting fires in time of severe
frost to keep the pipes and everything
else safe. Besides, thus managed,
the vineries can be made use of in
many ways for storing plants on which
there are neither thrip, spider, nor bug.
Do not lose a day in pruning Vines
whenever they are clear of fruit. The
system of pruning best suited for such
varieties as Muscat of Alexandria,
Black Hamburg, Lady Downes, Ali-
cante, Gros Colman, and most Vines,
is the close spurring system — i.t.,
cutting back every year to the lowest
eye on last year's growth. Such sorts
as Golden Champion, Duke of Buc-
cleuch, Muscat Champion, Gros Guil-
laume, do not fruit so freely as a
rule on the close spurring system as
when two or three eyes are left. These
do best of all on the long-rod system,
only in wide vineries with long raft-
ers, when a young rod is run up the
whole length of a 20 - feet roof, the
lower portion of the Vines frequently
does not start its buds so freely, espe-
cially if started with fire-heat. The
best way in the case of such Vines is
to have the fruiting canes 4 feet or 44
feet apart, and to have a wood pro-
ducing one between each, with a
growing point at the bottom of the
rods, and one half-way up the lower
growth, to grow, say 10 feet, and be
stopped, and the next growing point
to run to the top, thus giving two
short rods that are more likely to
start equally into growth along their
whole length. At pruning-time fruit-
ed Vines are cut down 10 feet from
the top, and the bottom growth is cut
to the bottom of the roof, so that
while one set of canes are bearing on
young growths, the other set are pro-
ducing these growths for the follow-
ing year. This is a simple and safe

plan with the varieties that do best on
the rod system. Rub off all buds from
the spurs of Vines that are far enough
advanced to see in which bud the
most compact bunch is coming. Do
not quite close the ventilators at any
time after Vines have broken into
growth, unless it be when there oc-
curs a very stormy cold night. We
never syringe Vines after they are
fairly started, unless under very
exceptional circumstances. We have
to do with a sunk range of vineries,
where the pipes are quite close to the
foliage, and these are the only vineries
where red-spider ever puts in an ap-
pearance, or is expected. Invari-
ably spider begins the whole length
of the vineries just over these pipes.
Sometimes we have sponged the
leaves, at other times we have
syringed with clean water to get rid
of it. In the other vineries, where
the pipes are away from the Vines,
we have not seen a spider since they
were built in 1870, and the Vines are
never syringed after the growths are
half an inch long ; indeed one house
is never syringed at all. We damp
the floors in the afternoon, and shut
the house up closely for an hour or
two, and in that way they get the
refreshing influence of the moisture
without the many evils of syringing.
Peaches. — There are few things
more injurious in the early stage
of Peach-forcing than anything ap-
proaching high night - temperatures.
The night - temperature in mild
weather should never exceed 50°,
and when cold, 45° by means of fire-
heat, until the blooms are open.
High temperatures produce blooms
with debilitated organs, and the fruit
does not set properly. It also causes
the wood-buds to come away too much
in advance of the bloom, which is
very undesirable. Trees that have long
been accustomed to an early start do
not need high temperatures to excite
them, and if they did, it should be
applied by day. Keep a moist genial
atmosphere, and syringe the trees sev-
eral times daily till the bloom opens.
When the bloom is fully expanded,
and the pollen develojjed, keep the
house warmer by day — it may run
to 60°, except in very cold weather
—and the atmosphere buoyant and
moving by means of ventilation, but
always avoiding draughts of frosty

46

THE GARDENER.

[Jan.

air. With the much earlier varieties
of Peaches and Nectarines now in
cultivation it is not necessary to start
forcinf;; so early, by a month at least,
to produce ripe fruit at a given time.
A tree of Hales's Early Peach and one
of Lord Napier Nectarine in the early
house, will give ripe fruit with a few
weeks' less forcing than the old sorts.
There are sorts earlier still, but none
that we know of combining so many
good qualities as those named. All
late Peaches not yet pruned should be
attended to at once. In pruning,
above everything, avoid leaving such
a number of young shoots as will
crowd the trees, but leave ample room
for tying in the summer shoots for
next year's bearing without crowd-
ing the foliage : as a rule, the bear-
ing wood should not be closer to-
gether than 4 inches. In shortening
back young growths on trees now
occupying all the space upwards, see
that the cut is made at a point where
there is certain to be a wood-bud.
Cutting, too, a triplet of buds, two
bloom-buds and one wood-bud should
be the rule. Get the planting of young
trees completed as soon as possible.
Use a rather heavy fresh loam, with
no manure added except about half
a bushel of ground bones to every
square yard of soil.

Figs.— This fruit is gaining ground
rapidly in gardens, and deservedly so.
It is a very productive and wholesome
fruit. When well managed it is aston-
ishing how long one tree continues
to bear. We gathered fruit from three
trees last summer, from June till
November, with a very short inter-
mission, after the first crop was over.
AVe have tried a great many sorts, and
have found none with so many good
qualities as old Brown Turkey. The
great points in successful Fig-culture
are, to plant in restricted borders, and
mix no manure, except a few bones,
with the soil, when the trees are first
planted. A 6-feet wide border will
keep large trees in splendid bearing
order for many years, provided they
be well nourished with top-dressing
and liquid manure after they have at-
tained to a free - bearing condition ;
but we never find Brown Turkey in
anything but a free - bearing state.
We have struck it from eyes in Feb-
ruary, run it up 4 feet high, and

ripened fruit 'off the young plants in
October. Some say the Fig should
never be pruned. This is a question-
able rule. Certainly the pruning
should be carried out when the trees
are making their young wood, and
very few growths should be retained
in summer that need to be cut out in
winter. But to allow trees to become
a thicket of wood is quite another and
erroneous practice. Every shoot and
leaf should have as much space as will
let light and air play freely about
them, and then next to no winter
pruning is called for. Trees started
last month should have 5° more heat
when they have fairly commenced to
grow. The night-temperature, when
very mild, may range to 60", and 5°
more by day. Keep the trees moist
at the root, and syringe twice daily
with tepid water.

Melons. — A few may be sown for
an early crop. Half fill 4-inch pots
with loamy soil, and sow two seeds
in each. Plunge near the glass, in a
temperature of 70° and bottom-heat of
85", and when the young plants ap-
pear let them be |kept in as light a
position as can beafforded them. Do
not give more water than is sufficient
to keep them from flagging, and earth
up their stumps as they lengthen.

Cucumbers. — A few seeds should
now be sown for planting out in Feb-
ruary. Sow in the same way and
temperature as recommended for
Melons. The soil should be more
light and friable than for Melons.
Plants that have been bearing more
or less all winter will now be benefit-
ed by a slight mulching of manure
over their roots. See that they are
kept free from insects, and remove
all deformed Cucumbers that may
appear. Keep the night-temperature
about 70° when the nights are mild,
and make the most of every blink
of sun in bright days by closing the
pit early.

Strawberries in Pots. — Very early
started plants may be in bloom by
the end of the month. Until they
are set, do not let the night-tempera-
ture be more than 55°, and give a
little air every day, guarding against
cold currents coming in contact with
the blooms. Put more plants into
heat fortnightly, and let forcing be
commenced very gently.

Ibsl.

CALENDAR.

47

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

In January, for the last two seasons,
ground was (as is often the case at
this time of year) sodden, and, in
many cases, frozen and covered with
snow ; therefore no ground work could
be advanced except draining, and that
was somewhat profitless, from the
difficulty of clearing snow and frozen
surface before the work could be pro-
ceeded with. Nevertheless, the opera-
tion is always an important one, and
if a fall from the ground can be had
at all, there is little difficulty in mak-
ing efficient drainage. Where ground
is damp and flat, it is well to see to
the means of clearing off stagnant
water. If a ditch is the receptacle,
let it be clear of vegetation, mud, or
other obstacles, so that the water may
run clear to its destination. We refer
to these points, because it often oc-
curs that drains are well laid, but by
ditches filling, a "back water" is
caused, and much mischief ensues.
We had to deal with a case of this kind
on an old place two years ago, and
woods, shrubberies, and kitchen-garden
suffered materially. Fruit-trees were
dying piecemeal ; but a clearance of
the ditches made a great difference in
a short time. Where there is stagnant
water, one can seldom' calculate on a
successful supply of vegetables during
the winter, and now is the proper time
to judge of the requirements of the
ground in this respect. The value
of the soil should be tested by its
depth, and drains made accordingly.
3 to 4 feet is the usual depth; and
seldom can one deal with sodden
ground with drains much wider apart
than 20 feet. Hard ashes from fac-
tories may be used, where clay pre-
dominates, and several inches nicely
placed over the pipes to prevent them
filling by rain washing in the clay at
the joints. Where drains are formed
among trees and shrubs, it is well to
use socket-pipes, and the ends should
be dipped in tar in process of laying
them — the tar to be kept boiling.
This makes a suitable preventive of
the roots filling the pipes and stopping
them. They (the roots) turn from
the tar in search of more congenial
food.

When weather is suitable, trench
or dig up ground to the action of the
weather as it may seem necessary.

Avoid treading on wet surfaces : there
ought to be plenty of work in the
store -yard, when it is unsuitable
to tread the ground. Trimmings of
hedges may be burnt ; stakes for Peas,
&c., may be made ; composts may be
turned and prepared ; manure may be
turned likewise, and, to increase its
quality, turf, siftings of ashes, soot,
road - scrapings, and other material,
may be mixed with it. Potatoes may
be overhauled, clearing out any which
are decaying. Roots which are stored
may be examined. Onions and every
other vegetable in store should not be
left to themselves. Everything being
in order, one can use all energy in pre-
paring the ground and gathering in
the necessary crops, unimpeded, when
the time arrives. Manure may be
wheeled during frosty weather, but
it should not be turned into the ground
at random. Potatoes, Beet, Parsnips,
and Carrots do well on land which has
been properly prepared with manure
for other crops the previous season.
Trenching the soil is a good prepara-
tion for such crops the forthcoming
season. The south border for early
croj3s, which require shelter, should
now be in readiness, by well digging
and breaking the soil : leaf-mould and
sand may be serviceable in preparing
the soil for seeds or plants. Peas and
Broad Beans may now be sown. They
do well sown on the surface and the
soil drawn over the seed : red-lead or
furze will keep mice and rats at bay.
Soot and lime, mixed with dry and
fine ashes, is suitable for dusting
surfaces to keep slugs off. This may
be strewed between all crops — Lettuce
and Cabbage especially. Cauliflowers
in frames require abundance of air :
a pan may be sown in light soil for
succession, and brought on cool and
airy ; so may also Cabbage and Let-
tuce. Coddling defeats the object of
earliness and hardiness. Horse-radish
may be dug up and placed in sand,
and ground well prepared by trenching
and manuring for planting a fresh
supply. If pieces of the roots are put
down about 12 inches to 16 inches
deep, they will come up strong and
useful. Spinach and every other crop
should be clear of weeds, and have
fine open surfaces. Parsley now re-
quires special attention ; a portion,

48

THE GARDENER.

[Jan. i88i.

with other herbs, lifted and potted,
or placed in boxes and pans, may be
brought on to meet the demand.
Forcing, even in the smallest of places,
will now have special attention. As-
paragus on gentle hotbeds ; French
Beans in pots planted every twelve to
twenty days ; Potatoes potted and
kept under plenty of light and air,
and also placed in pits or frames in
a gentle warmth, with abundance of
light and air ; Carrots and Radishes
treated in a similar manner, the latter

sown between the Potatoes, — are some
of the most pressing of crops at this
time. ^lustard and Cress and Thread
Onions should be sown every fortnight,
as may be necessary. They should
have plenty of air when they are up
and growing. Sow pinches of Celery,
Capsicums — Tomatoes, if required
early. Keep them near the glass,
with a temperature of about G0°. Take
in successions of Seakale and Rhubarb,
as formerly advised, or blanch with
leaves and pots. JM. T.

D^otias io C0rrtsj30nircnts.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in * The Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. "We
decline noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and
address of writer,

A. A. P. — The following climbers will be most likely to suit your purpose,
although we doubt the air of your hall will be too dry to grow them well : Tac-
sonia van volxemii and T. Exoniensis ; Passiflora cserulea and P. Campbellii ;
Jasminum grandiflorum ; Habrothamnus elegans ; and Plumbago capensis.
You must either have sunken recesses for a few bushels of soil round each pillar,
or large ornamental vases or pots that will hold a bushel of soil for each plant.
All the plants named will do in equal parts good friable loam and leaf -mould,
with a quart of bone-meal to each bushel of soil. You can grow the Xympheea
odorata in basins of glass or earthenware with a few inches of loam and some
pounded charcoal in the bottom of each. The water must be kept sweet and
fresh by constant renewal.

J. 0. — In the absence of every particular of the circumstances under which
your Grapes were grown we cannot give you a satisfactory answer. The Grapes,
however, had evidcQtly never ripened thoroughly, and this, no doubt, had some-
thing to do with the stalks giving way so badly.

J. D. — Instead of Apricots we would advise you to plant some upright single
Cordon Pears, but if determined to plant the former, take Moor Park. Duke
of Buccleuch does well on both Muscat and Hamburg roots ; and so it does on
its own roots, all other things being favourable. Try Foster's Seedling and Dr
Hogg, or other whites.

Amateur. —The most likely cause of your Lettuces damping off, is a want of
sufficient ventilation.

AVe have to thank numerous friends for their much valued contributions, for
which we are unable to find room in our present issue.

THE

GARDENER

FEBRUARY 1881.

ORCHIDS. •

Indian CpwOCus.

E WILLIAMS, in his admirable work on Orchid-culture,
goes so far as to say that these lovely mountain Orchids
kM ^M ^^^ somewhat neglected by gardeners and Orchid culti-
».^.^w|| vators generally. They are so beautiful, and flower in
autumn at such a welcome time, that they are not at all
deserving of neglect, — indeed, on the other hand, worthy of the most
assiduous culture. Even where but " a few Orchids " are grown, they
should find a place on account of their distinct habit of growth, and,
by comparison with their own bulb and leaf growth, enormous flowers.
If you take the largest-blossomed Lycaste known, and measure it and
the smallest -flowered Pleione, bulb for bulb and leaf for leaf, you
will find that the Pleione has flowers three times larger in proportion !
I am just reminded of these upland gems by the sight of my own
little collection of them just sprouting up into growth like young
Palms from their mossy beds of sphagnuni, which, being seen betwixt
the eye and the light, is of the loveliest green tint imaginable. I am
the more particularly interested in them because all my stock is or
has been the gifts of kind Orchid-growing friends. As it is now the
fashion to boast of one's presents in the horticultural press, I suppose
I must boast of mine also. Well, about six weeks ago I received
from a kind friend on the north side of the great "saumon river"
a long shallow box, the look and probable contents of which was at
first somewhat of a puzzle to me. On opening it, however, and re-
moving the layers of soft paper and cotton wool, there lay exposed to
view three rows of splendidly grown bulbs of Pleione lagenaria —

D

r>0 THE GARDENER. [Fei;.

twelve in a row — and all large, and plump, and fresh, and as niuch
alike as thirty-six bullets all cast in the same mould. It was a sight
to charm the heart of any one who can distinguish an Orchid bulb
from an Onion, and the care and delight with which they were
unpacked and placed in those mossy-surfaced pans before alluded to
would have pleased the kind donor exceedingly. The plant, either
in growth or flower, will always be to us a living and beautiful sou-
venir. This is so, indeed, with a large proportion of our plants,
especially the Orchids. That morsel of Coelogyne Lemoniana, for
example, with its plump pseudo-bulbs, rivalling hens' eggs in size and
smoothness, is to us a reminder of one of nature's born gardeners, and
one of the most genial of men — a Christian who lives his Christianity
instead of talking of it. Cypripedium Maulei, just opening out its
wonderfully spotted upper sepal, is another souvenir to us — a souvenir
of one whom we can respect by reputation as well as by name. Look
wherever we may, these kind gifts of brother gardeners present them-
selves to our notice, and enliven our daily duties with thoughts of
others rather than of ourselves. But I must stay this preachment,
and return to the Pleiones. I have chosen the present time to write
of these plants because now is the time they require especial attention ;
and if they are not in the possession of those desirous of having them,
now is a good time to obtain them.

In nearly all collections they will have been repotted some weeks
ago : if it has been overlooked, however, now is the time to repot or
top-dress such as require it. As a compost we use fibrous peat,
chopped living sphagnum, and about a fourth of fibrous loam. Some
growers rub up dried horse-droppings or cow-manure in the compost,
but in the case of Pleiones we prefer to give any essential manurial
stimulant at the time it is most needed, — that is, about May or June,
when light is abundant, and the leaves and roots are in full action. As
a liquid stimulant for these and other sub-terrestrial Orchids, we use a
weak and clear solution of cow-manure and soot, so made that the
water is but slightly discoloured. Just "whuskyan' water" colour,
as an observant friend once told me on seeing it used.

At the present time the rootlets are being protruded from the
warty base of the young growths, and neither manure nor over-much
root moisture is good for them — indeed, on the contrary, likely to be
hurtful. A temperature of 50'' at night to 65° in the day-time, with
plenty of air, suits them admirably ; and our own practice is to grow
them in shallow Orchid-pans suspended beneath the roof of an inter-
mediate house. A Cattleya-house suits them well, — so also an ordi-
nary plant -stove, if not kept too close and hot, or too much over-
shadowed by creepers on the roof. A vinery, where forcing is being
commenced, and which is not lower than 50° at night, will be an ad-
mirable place for them ; or failing these, even a shelf near the light in
a warm greenhouse or conservatory may be utilised for them. As I

tSSt.] orchids. 51

liave before remarked, they require very careful watering until the
roots gain strength with the lengthening. On the judicious starting
of Pleiones and Calanthes much of the success of after- culture de-
pends. This much is true of most other things, but I think it applies
with more than ordinary force to these, since no amount of careful
after -culture can with them make up for a bad start. Instead of
using the watering-pot, just now, we rather trust to sprinkling
the mossy surface once or twice daily with a fine -rosed syringe,
not using sufficient water to risk its settling down into the heart of
the young growth, and so causing rotting. On very dull or wet days
we omit syringing altogether, and no doubt this may general] y be
done with advantage. As growth commences to strengthen, however,
and the roots to form a network amongst the moss, and the sun be-
comes hotter and the days longer, not only may the water-pot be
freely used overhead with advantage, but it will often become neces-
sary to dip the pans entirely in tank or cistern to make sure of the
earth being moist throughout. The greatest care must ever be exer-
cised in keeping thrips, green-fly, and red-spider at bay ; and syringing
morning and evening, with plenty of air on by night as well as by day
all through the summer months, is the best safeguard against insect
enemies. As the foliage turns brown at the tips, do not be tempted to
withhold water too suddenly. Syringe as usual, but do not soak the
compost too much with the water-pot. Keep the compost moist, and
no more. If this is judiciously done, the brown tips will extend down
the foliage towards the bulbs very slowly, and this is very essential, as
the bulbs are now "plumping up " or fattening themselves out so as
to be able to take a few weeks' rest, and then push up their lovely
Crocus -like flowers. On careful and timely starting and judicious
resting the whole success in Pleione - culture rests, and the other
routine culture is of easy management, being simply that of other
stove or warm greenhouse plants, — careful watering, syringing, and
general cleanliness.

A word as to the kinds grown may be of service. P. lagenaria is the
strongest grower, and the most generally useful of the whole group.
It is to Pleiones what " nobile " is to Dendrobiums. Then P. praecox,
or as it is otherwise called P. Wallichiana, is a good free grower, and
very effective. P. maculata, being mostly white, is useful for cut,
or rather pulled flowers ; for I must not forget to say that Pleione
flowers are best if pulled gently from the plants, being careful to pull
in the line of upward growth. The flowers come out of their sheath-
ing bracts — ^just like Lily of the Valley spikes when pulled instead of
cut — and the result is longer and more useful stems. P. humilis is a
pretty pink -flowered kind, and P. Reichenbachiana, P. Hookeriana,
P. Arthuriana, P. tricolor, and one or two others, are as yet too rare
and expensive for any but the most zealous of Orchid-growers and
amateur cultivators.

52 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

Any one who will give the first three kinds a fair trial as above re-
commended will, I am sure, not care to be without Pleiones as autumn
flowers for a long time to come.

CffiLOGYNE CRISTATA.

Whenever any one writes to ask the names of half-a-dozen Orchids
" to start with/' I always include this plant, Dendrobium nobile, Cypri-
pedium insigne, Odontoglossum bictonense, Phaius Wallichii, and
Bletia hyacinthina. If they fail with these, I advise them to give up
growing Orchids, and to stick to Fuchsias and Pelargoniums.

This Coelogyne is just now unfolding its lovely white flowers, and
though our plants are small we have thirteen spikes on each of them,
which make a nice show. It is one of the Orchids that every one hav-
ing stove accommodation or a house kept up to 50° on winter nights
should grow. It does best in a pan of peat, sphagnum moss, and
crocks or charcoal intermixed : the bulbs and rhizomes should be
elevated on a low mound of compost in repotting, and the surface be-
tween the bulbs should be coated with bits of living sphagnum moss.
When growing it enjoys being watered overhead ; and if placed in a
cool dry house as soon as the flowers open, they will remain fresh and
good for twenty-eight to forty-two days. F. W. B.

FLOWERING PLANTS FOR ROOM DECORATION.

Of late years the demand for flowers has increased considerably, and
the rage for fine -foliage plants that existed but a short time ago
appears to be gradually on the wane, and year by year the love for
flowering plants and flowers in a cut state, for various purposes, has
increased. However beautiful foliage plants may appear, they can
never take the place of, or rise in public estimation to the same level
as, flowering plants. Many fine-foliage plants are noble objects, when
well grown, for associating with flowering plants and for decorative
purposes, and are regarded by some as beautiful as flowers. It is sur-
prising that at nearly all the exhibitions of late, foliage plants have
been shown in the greatest numbers, especially for table decoration :
during the past year I have not seen one flowering plant staged for
this purpose. This alone would almost induce one to believe that
they are far more popular for this purpose than flowering plants. Such
we do not think really is the case, and it would not be difficult to
point to several cases where foliage plants are only considered of
secondary importance, and where their use for room decoration is
entirely dispensed with, and flowering subjects alone used. Where two
hundred plants or more are in daily request for months through the
winter for room decoration, and all or the majority being flowering
plants, it is a great strain upon a gardener at times to find suitable

i88i.] PLANTS FOR ROOM DECORATION. 53

subjects in sufficient number and variety to meet the demand, especi-
ally during the worst months of the year, which may safely be con-
sidered from October to the New Year.

Many plants are anything but suitable for room decoration, and do
not last sufficiently long to pay for the trouble of growing. The task
is more difficult still when only a certain class of flowering plants of a
choice nature are admired, and those required in large numbers. For
example, a vase that will hold a pot 9 or 10 inches in diameter, and that
has to be filled with a trained standard Mignonette, and nothing else,
until Hybrid Roses can take its place, causes a great deal of work.
Mignonette in rooms does not last long, at least the fragrance is soon
gone, and the plant must be removed and replaced with another. The
damage done to the plant by a short stay in the dwelling-house takes
a long time to repair. To accomplish the decoration of rooms suc-
cessfully requires a good deal of care and forethought. To maintain
a supply for cutting and the ornamentation of plant-houses is not
so difficult as to provide large quantities of choice flowering plants
suitable for the embellishment of rooms. For this purpose plants
have to be grown in pots of various sizes, to suit the different vases.
This must be kept in view from the first, or else the work becomes
far more difficult.

Eucharis amazonica is one of the best room plants with which I
am acquainted, if grown in 5- or 6-inch pots : the former is used here.
In small pots it is easy to manage and to keep a succession of its beau-
tiful flowers ; a few can be rested at short intervals, and again intro-
duced into heat to throw up their flowers. They stand room decora-
tion well, and are scarcely ever injured. It is a fragrant and lovely
flower, and commands general admiration. When plants are placed in
rooms they often sufi'er considerably from gas; and another evil
nearly as bad is careless housemaids opening the windows direct upon
some choice tender plant. A vase of Lily of the Valley, produced
during November, when delicate and tender, is soon spoiled by cold
draughts, and its time of lasting in good condition considerably re-
duced. This is by no means the worst evil gardeners have to contend
with in room decoration. Some of the most peculiar-shaped things
have to be filled with a number of plants for which they are not
adapted : plants have to be turned out of their pots, and in some
instances half the roots pulled off the outer plants to fit them in so as
to produce the desired effect.

Orchids are amongst the most useful of plants for room decoration,
and it is surprising they are not more largely grown. In rooms not
lighted with gas they last a long time without injury to the plant,
especially cool or intermediate species. What is more choice or beau-
tiful than Odontoglossum cirrosum or 0. Alexandras, which will last
a month or more in good condition, and can be managed so as to be in
bloom during winter if a little extra heat be given while growth is

54 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

being made 1 Maxillaria picta is another sweet little Orchid, and
flowers profusely in small pots; but, unfortunately, it does not last long.
Cuelogyne cristata is another suitable kind. Calanthes can also be
used, but the tops of the pots should be well dressed with Lycopodium,
Many other useful kinds could be enumerated, but one more only
shall be named — it is one of the oldest and best known, and doubtless
the most useful of all Orchids — Dendrobium nobile. What is more
lovely or better adapted for this purpose 1 It lasts a long time, and
can be readily grown in small 4- or 5-inch pots, and larger as cases may
demand. In two years good flowering plants can be grown from the
small pseudo-bulbs, which readily produce themselves after flowering.
A number taken ofif and placed in 3-inch pots for the first season and
then into 5-inch the following spring, suitable plants may be pro-
duced, and if ripened well will not fail to flower and be lovely little
objects. If not grown in small pots, one or two spikes may be cut
from larger plants and placed in moist soil or sand, in small pots, and
the surface covered with Lycopod. They last a long time in this way,
and cause little or no injury to the plants from which they were cut.

Primulas and Cyclamen are invaluable plants and could not easily
be dispensed with for winter, being suitable for rooms. The Primula
lasts a considerable time, and soon recruits itself when brought out,
and flowers profusely again. As a window -plant for cottagers, it
is unsurpassed, and will bloom well in a cottage - window for six
months. Prunus sinensis flore pleno and triloba are also valuable,
and deserve to be more grown. They last nearly as long in light
positions in rooms as when allowed to remain in the conservatory ;
and no plant can be more easily forced into bloom. They are as easily
propagated as Deutzias from the young growths taken off with a heel,
and in a season or two make nice plants, varying from six to ten shoots,
in 5- and 6-inch pots. The treatment that suits the Peach suits these
Prunuses well, and when growth is completed they can be placed out-
side to ripen the wood.

At no season of the year are flowers so much appreciated as during
the winter months when all outside is quietly at rest, and at no season
are they so bright and cheerful ; and perhaps this accounts in a great
measure for the increasing demand in winter over that of summer.
Flowers inside, except of a very choice nature, become common when
the outside borders and flower-beds are gay with a variety of plants.
For instance, the Zonal Pelargoniums, the most brilliant and cheerful
flowers that can be produced during the winter, are in summer looked
upon as common when they would naturally continue to bloom for
months in succession without much care or trouble. The same might
be said of many plants. The New Year is a festive season, and for
the occasion floral decorations are considered indispensable. Unfor-
tunately this is a season when flowers are considered scarce and most
difficult to produce. After the New Year days gradually lengthen,

i88i.] WALL-BORDERS IN KITCHEN-GARDENS. 55

light increases, and plants naturally unfold their blooms better than
during the two preceding months. But for the dullest months there
need be no break in the supply of flowers, and the conservatory may
be kept as gay during the whole winter as any time in the year. This
may scarcely seem feasible to those who fail to maintain a supply.
But failure in this respect is due to more causes than one, and not
the least important is carelessness in the selection of suitable
varieties for early blooming. Amongst Zonal Pelargoniums, I must
still cling to Vesuvius, Prince of Wales, and Wonderful ; these are not
surpassed for freedom of flowering during winter : a good light one
will be found in Apple Blossom, although as a florist's flower it is poor.
These will continue to flower, and profusely, in a temperature of 45° to
50°. Many of the large-trussing kinds require a much higher tempera-
ture in which to expand their blooms properly ; they are not to be
condemned on that account, because if more heat is given, sonae kinds
do well. Harry Turner, a good pink, and Leopold, a good dark, both
large -trussing kinds, promise well in the same temperature as the
Vesuvius type. Vesuvius, although " weighed in the scales" by some
growers and "found wanting," cannot be dispensed with for any large-
trussing kind with which I am acquainted. A selection of plants is
needed for winter work, and to a large extent success depends upon
this matter. When proper kinds are grown, even of Rhododendrons,
^zaleas, and the like, much of the difficulty of forcing is reduced, and
the work is accomplished with ease and certainty. There can be no
doubt that to maintain a blaze of bloom and abundance for cutting,
and plants for room decoration, a good deal of forcing has to be
attended to, not only in autumn, but in spring, as stated in previous
notes in the ' Gardener ; ' and unless this system of growing plants
purposely year by year entirely changes their nature, as far as their
flowering period is concerned, it is useless to force in early autumn
before the various plants have enjoyed a natural rest.

Wm. Bardney.

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF WALL - BORDERS IN
KITCHEN-GARDENS.

NO. II.

When commencing these papers, I intended to treat of each border
separately, making suggestions in detail both upon the first and suc-
cessional crops. This would have been much the simplest ; but the
conclusion I finally arrived at was, that, for my remarks to be in-
structive, they must be seasonable — that is to say, if hints were given
in the April or May number of the ' Gardener ' upon work that should
be performed in February or March, they would certainly miss their
mark. Another idea was to advise upon the breadths or quantities

56 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

of any kind of vegetable to be planted or sown. This, again, is im-
practicable, as the sizes of gardens, and the demands of different
establishments, vary considerably. I shall therefore make my remarks
as seasonable as possible, with perhaps a few suggestions as to quan-
tities to be grown.

Sowiii'j Earl}/ Peas. — If not already done, it is advisable that a good
sowing should be made early in February. Nothing, however, will
be gained by sowing early, " in spite of everything" — quite the reverse,
as much depends upon having the ground in a suitable condition for
the reception of the seed. My practice is to sow on the first favourable
opportunity during January or early in February, taking care that the
soil is so far dry as not to bind badly when trodden. The ground
selected is generally previously occupied wdth either late Cauliflowers
or early Broccoli, which help to keep the soil somewhat dry. A dry
time prevailing, the manure is wheeled on, the ground deeply and
roughly dug, and allowed to lie till the next day, or perhaps for two
days, when it breaks up readily. If allowed to get sodden, it is weeks
before it is again in good condition; and on the other hand, if it gets
very dry and hard it also works badly. Although Peas delight in a
good depth of rich soil, we do not trench for the earliest, as we find
they succeed better on ground trenched the previous season for
Potatoes. It is better for being firm, and is also generally drier. In
the winter of 1877 we trenched for Peas, but owing to the continued
wet weather were obliged to shovel out the drills and use fresh light
and dry soil below and above the seed. Since that time we have
altered our practice. While on this subject I may remark that, with
this or any other important crop, it is imperative to " strike while the
iron is hot," — or to be plain, one man should not be set to do all the
important work, as that means many opportunities lost. Muster a
sufficient number of hands where possible, so as to get a job completed
quickly.

To return to the Peas. Previous to sowing, our ground is well
trodden, and then stirred with a dung-fork. Wide drills are drawn
with a flat hoe, or thrown out with a spade, from 2 to 3 inches in depth,
and running from north to south if on a south border, or from east to
west if on a west border, either of which sites is suitable. The seed is
sown thinly, trodden in, and covered with soil, and the whole border
is then raked over. If circumstances are against the seed being sown
before February 14th, then seed should be sown in boxes — as advised
in the January number — placing these in a gentle heat, hardening off
before the plants are much drawn, and planting as previously advised ;
and to follow these, a sowing on the border should be made as soon as
possible. The best two early varieties I have grown are Harbinger and
William I., both of which I strongly recommend. If a third variety
is wanted, Sutton's Emerald Gem may be added : Harbinger was the
earliest last season by about a week, and is very productive and good in

i88i.] WALL-BORDERS IN KITCHEN -GARDENS. 67

quality. When the first sowing is pushing through the surface, another
sowing of the same varieties to the same extent (twelve rows 10 feet in
length) is made, also on a sheltered border ; and these continue the
supply till those sown in the open are ready for use. The rows are all
placed 3 feet apart, and 4-feet stakes are used, near to which height the
Peas are topped, this inducing the pods to fill more rapidly. The
young Pea growth is very much liked by the sparrows, and for that
reason we select for the sowings that part of the border where there is
much traflac. Every morning, or in the evening after a shower, the
Peas are lightly dusted over with a mixture of lime, soot, and wood-
ashes, and this, with the help of a gun, keeps the birds off. We mould
up and stake early, working in the spray, purposely saved, between the
stakes, which also tends to protect the growth. Mice are very trouble-
some at times, and these we poison (cats do not thrive near game-pre-
serves), using phosphorus-paste, putting it down every evening, and
picking up what is left the following morning, otherwise the birds
would be poisoned wholesale.

Spinach. — This is sown between the rows of Peas at each sowing of
the latter. It is a mistake, often made, to sow Spinach thickly, as when
crowded it is not so good in quality, and is more liable to run to seed.
Thinning out, if performed in good time, is right enough ; but then
this is frequently left undone till it is too late. Spinach is one of the
best of materials in which to pack either vegetables or flowers.

Caulijioivers. — To succeed those planted either at the base of a warm
wall or under hand-lights, as the case may be, towards the end of Feb-
ruary or early in March, according to circumstances, more of the
autumn-sown plants should be planted on a sheltered border. This
crop is a valuable one, and well repays a little extra trouble. The
soil I find most suitable for Cauliflowers generally is a rather stiff
fresh loam, in which has recently been dug a liberal quantity of half-
decayed manure. They will not "take hold" of a soil that has long
been heavily manured and lightly dug, and from which comparatively
light crops have long been taken. Bastard trenching is the best anti-
dote for such a poisoned soil. If there is any likelihood of the plants
moving badly from the boxes or frames, it is advisable to pot some
of the strongest singly into 4-inch pots, placing them on shelves in a
warm house, in a few days returning them to a cold frame to har-
den off, and planting out before they are root-bound. Choose a dry
time for planting, make the soil firm, and ram it well about the
plants with the back of the trowel, as loose planting encourages pre-
mature heading-in, or "buttoning.'' Eighteen inches apart each way
is a good distance to plant, unless extra large heads are required —
which for ordinary purposes are a mistake — and some of the smaller
new early kinds may be planted still closer. If the plants are well
hardened, not much protection will be needed ; but severe frosts may
be warded off by covering with 6-inch pots, with clods of earth over

58 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

the drainage -boles ; and branches of Evergreens may also be used.
Neither, however, should be used to excess, and only when severe
frosts are anticipated. Liquid manure, applied when the heads are
forming, will materially assist them, and should be followed up if
large heads are required. Moulding up before the plants are large
serves to steady them, and also tends to preserve the moisture about
the roots. The weaker plants in the frames or boxes may, at the end
of March or early in April, be potted up, or transferred direct to the
garden, — planting half the batch, if possible, on a warm border, and
the remainder in the open, thereby prolonging the supply. If autumn-
sown plants are scarce, seed should at once be sown in pans or boxes,
and placed in gentle heat, (I prefer the shelves near the glass in a
newly-started vinery.) The soil should be light and fine, the seed sown
thinly ; and great care should be taken not to syringe the seedlings, as
their very brittle stems are easily broken — this being the cause of
whole batches damping off in an apparently unaccountable manner.
The seedlings should be potted, or be pricked either into boxes or a
frame, over a slight hotbed, — be grown as sturdy as possible, and
planted out before they become crowded. They will move out of a
tine, light, leafy soil better than a coarse soil. Such varieties as
Veitch's or Carter's "Extra Earlies," Dean's Snowball, and Dwarf
Erfurt Mammoth are suitable for the earliest crops ; and to follow
these, I can recommend Carter's Mont Blanc, Sutton's King of the
Cauliflowers, and Dickson's Eclipse, — which, if sown at the same time,
will " turn in " in the order named. By varying the sites, and plant-
ing frequently, a good supply may be maintained with one variety —
none in this respect being superior to Dean's Snowball.

-Broad Beans. — Unless there is a demand for these, they are not
worthy of a place on a sheltered border. If wanted very early for a
particular purpose, they may be sown singly in 4-inch pots, and started
in a gentle heat. The young plants should be kept sturdy, and har-
dened off early ; they may then be planted out, on the first favour-
able occasion, 5 inches asunder, in lines 2 feet apart. Protect slightly
in the first instance, and stake up the heavy exhibition varieties, such
as the Seville Longpod and Carter's Leviathan.

Onions. — Our earliest supply of Onions are usually autumn-sown,
the first fit for use being the Queen, and this is closely followed by the
Early White Naples. Those who may not have sown an early variety,
and fear a break in the supply, should at once sow seed of one or both
of these varieties in pans or boxes, using fine light soil, and place in
heat. Harden off before the plants become drawn, and transplant
thickly, either at the foot of a wall or on a south border. Fully a
month will be gained in this manner ; and by sowing more seed as early
as possible on the same border, the supply will be maintained. Even
the WJiite Spanish and other types may be forwarded considerably in
this manner ; and the smallest of seedlings transplant readily. They

i88i.] EXPERIENCE IN THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 59

should be put in firmly, but not deeply ; and Onions generally delight
in a rich and gritty soil, made firm by trampling. If size of bulb is no
object, when transplanting either autumn or spring sown Onions, place
the rows 10 inches apart, and dibble them, 2 inches apart, alternately
on each side of the line. If large bulbs are required, they may be dis-
posed 4 inches apart in the rows.

Farsley. — This herb is equally as indispensable as the foregoing
vegetable. From various causes, during the spring months, it is fre-
quently very scarce, and where this is anticipated, seed should at once
be sown, and grown in a frame, similar to early Carrots ; or the seed
may be sown in boxes, and placed on a gentle hotbed. The seedlings
may be pricked off in boxes, gradually hardened off, and finally planted
in a double line, at the base of a south or west wall. They will w^ell
repay the trouble. More seed should be sown on the south border.
Cooks must have Parsley, which some young gardeners find to their
cost. Sow frequently, and allow the plants plenty of room, and the
supply will never fail. W. Iggulden.

PART OF A SEASON'S EXPERIENCE IN THE
Fli O WER- GARDEN.

During last winter a new herbaceous garden was made here, and I
may say no pains were spared to lay a solid and lasting foundation, both
in labour and mat,erial, in order to insure success. The subsoil of the
garden is an open gravel, so that drainage was not necessary. The
natural soil was removed to a depth of from 2 to 2^ feet, and a very
liberal preparation substituted, such as is rarely given to hardy plants.
The compost consisted of the top spit of a rich pasture which had been
used for fruit-growing purposes for a year or two, and had been en-
riched with bones and manure. The soil was laid roughly in the beds
all the winter, and was therefore fully exposed to the action of the
frost, which sweetened it thoroughly, and rendered it a mellow pul-
verised mass for the plants to take root in. I may state here that the
garden was made before " open-air conservatories " came into vogue,
so the idea was neither borrowed nor stolen.

Well, after a long dreary winter spring came, and the garden was
planted with a very select collection of herbaceous plants. After
planting, we had the surface of the beds top-dressed an inch thick
with broken horse-droppings — a luxury we did not accord to bedding-
plants later in the season. Of course it is well known that horse-
droppings, independent of arresting evaporation and maintaining a
uniformity of earth-temperature, possess the still greater virtue of
exciting and sustaining surface-roots. A feeling of delicacy prohibits
me from attempting to delineate the process of planting — an under-
taking in these latter days that seems to require teaching in a special
school. However, the plants grew and flourished through the season.

60 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

In the spring we sowed patches of Mignonette, and also of two beauti-
ful annuals — Browallia elata and Collinsia bicolor. There were in
addition a goodly number of East Lothian Stocks and Evening Prim-
roses, raised from seed, which, by the month of July, were very pretty,
and in point of beauty and effect simply eclipsed every herbaceous
plant in the garden.

The air was absolutely perfumed with the smell of the Mignonette ;
and bees hovered about, and sometimes descended to sip a drop of
honey from the opening flowers. At evening, too, the dew descended,
and like crystal diamonds sparkled upon the refreshed flowers and
leaves, just as the sunbeams grew faint, and the Evening Primroses
((Enotheras) deigned to open their large but handsome flowers. There
were also stately Delphiniums ; and large Sun-Roses hung their heads,
as if doing obeisance to the smaller but certainly more beautiful mem-
bers of the hardy family.

But I must stop. I find I am growing sentimental in order to
accommodate my friends with choice of language for their favourites.
I must now for a moment direct attention to the flower-garden. Your
correspondent, J. S. W., has quoted, in support of his arguments, a
report from a distinguished correspondent of the 'Gardener' respect-
ing his dealing with two large beds which swallowed up the sum of
10,000 plants, all good and valuable.

I do not for a moment dispute this statement ; but would beg to
suggest that a simpler and less expensive system of planting might
possibly yield an equally good effect. In the summer of 1879 I had
some very large beds to plant myself with Pelargoniums and such-
like, which took such a number of plants that I resolved upon
changing the system of planting. In accordance with this deter-
mination, we procured a number of Cannas in the spring of the present
year ; and w^e also raised a stock of Castor - oils, Zeas, Abutilons,
Solanums, Balsams, and suchlike — the former of which were planted
at 6 feet apart, and were touching each other by the end of the first
week in July. The Balsams were 5 feet in diameter in August, and
flowered splendidly : of course the margins of these beds were toned
oflF with groups of smaller plants.

I may also point out that the centres of many large beds would be
much improved in appearance by the introduction of plants that are
conspicuous for the grace and beauty of their foliage, whether hardy
or half hardy. 10,000 plants might in this way plant a whole gar-
den instead of two beds. Many of the finest of the Cannas and
Abutilons I had lifted in the early part of the autumn and potted,
and they are now (December) doing excellent duty in the way of
furnishing a large conservatory ; and perhaps before winter is over
they will be useful for something else — whereas the finest things in
the herbaceous garden are no better looking than a " bundle of dead
sticks."

i88i.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 61

But to return to our system of planting the flower-garden. Indepen-
dent of the foliage-plants, we used a large number of a Heliotrope we
have here, which bears enormous trusses of flowers, and these we associ-
ated with pink Pelargoniums. Mrs Pollock Pelargonium and Coleus
Verschaffelti were planted in representative beds, as were Pelargonium
Flower of Spring, Beauty of Calderdale, and Iresine Lindeni, — from
our point of view the most striking beds in the whole garden, the Helio-
trope excepted. I name these as an example of our arrangement.
After planting, little labour was required for some weeks, as we never
peg down edgings before the plants have grown a considerable length;
and once going over in this way is quite sufficient up to August.
In point of labour I consider — nay, I boldly assert — that our her-
baceous garden, yard for yard or foot for foot, cost us more than
the flower-garden. Of course no sane person would say the same
of carpet-bedding, which is costly, but very effective.

Having therefore given equal attention to the management of these
two gardens, we have a right to compare results ; and I venture to
think that there are few people who (were it possible to accomplish
such a thing) would exchange the one garden for the other for
brilliancy of effect or unity of arrangement. And yet both are
necessary in their places.

Herbaceous plants are interesting — many of them pretty, if you like ;
but they will never supplant the former of their birthright unless the
tastes and habits of those who support horticulture so generously
undergo a change which requires a more imaginative mind than mine
to conceive.

Not satisfied, however, with my own experience, I journeyed last
August to the nursery grounds of one of the largest, if not the very
largest, growers of herbaceous plants in the neighbourhood of London,
for the purpose of inspection. I was courteously received, and was
conducted round the grounds by a very intelligent guide ; but, alas !
I had to return home a sadder instead of a wiser man, — being too late
for the show. I retraced my steps, and feasted my eyes upon the
grand display that the able curators of the London parks annually
provide for the British public. W. Hinds.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

Plagiarism by known and unknown contributors to the horticultural
press has increased to an almost discreditable extent of late. Different
gardeners writing on the same subjects, on which they entertain
similar opinions, are very apt to express themselves in similar language,
and one often sees examples of this kind. The same ideas are, indeed,
now often expressed in language so nearly alike, that it smacks of " copy-
ing" at first sight, but a little closer examination soon shows that the

G2 THK GARDENKR. [Feb.

language is the writer's own. We perused not long since, in one of
the monthlies, an article entitled " Poetic Parallels," in which a large
number of examples were furnished from the most eminent authors,
showing how writers sometimes think and write alike, that probably
never read a line of each other's productions. Burns, Scott, Long-
fellow, and even Shakespeare, are all unconscious plagiarists of this
kind, and such examples should make us cautious in attributing
blame ; but after all, the real " brain-sucker " is easily detected, and
the horticultural plagiarist does not appear to be an adept in the
art of disguising the appropriated articles of his neighbours. He
seems to be rather a stupid type of the class, and when detected in
his pilferings he generally either endeavours to extricate himself by a
lame excuse that carries falsity on the face of it, or he offers no defence
at all, and shows no shame. The worst sufferers by these literary pirates
are not the robbed parties, but the editors of the papers, who receive
their communications in the faith that they are original, only to dis-
cover, almost to a certainty, that they are probably the production of
another, to whom, maybe, would have been accorded a less favourable
reception — all of which is no doubt exceedingly mortifying. But
editors may be easily deceived in this way, and no fault to them. An
editor of one of the horticultural journals, who was bitten in this way
some time back, acknowledged the fact at once and in the most courteous
manner, and stated that it was impossible he or any editor could,
at the present day, " read a tittle of the articles that were written,"
hence any nefariously disposed rogue might deceive them. The best
cure is to pillory the thief well, and not to screen him by accepting his
explanations when these are so manifestly untrue. It is not long since
an industrious writer was shown up, who was engaged in reproducing
the chapters of another writer almost en bloc — whole pages being trans-
ferred with scarcely a word of alteration ; and yet he had the audacity
to write to the author to declare that it was a coincidence merely — he
had never read the papers in question. This was something like a co-
incidence surely. Another sent a leading article to a paper, only the
dates, names of places, and a few other particulars of which were his own.
He made one amusing and fatal mistake, however. The real writer had
described himself as living on the borders of a certain northern county ;
but the plagiarist, who wrote from Wales, had missed this point, and
we had the remarkable fact furnished of a man living and practising
in two different parts of the country at one and the same time.

Another somewhat noted practitioner was induced to deliver a lec-
ture on a certain horticultural topic in a town not a hundred miles
from St Helens in Lancashire, and finding its way into a local paper,
was discovered to have been copied in great part from one of the hor-
ticultural papers, to which it had been communicated some years before
by another writer. In this case the plagiarist had not the excuse of
want of experience on the subject of the lecture to plead, but chose,

iS8i.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 63

notwithstanding, to strut in borrowed feathers on the occasion. The
probable reason was the want of the ability to describe his own prac-
tice in his own language — hence the dressing of it up in somebody
else's. One of the latest devices exhibited by this fraternity, however,
is to copy the writings of some one else into their memorandum-book,
and put them away to pickle for a period of years, after which they
come to regard them as their own. The advantages of this plan are,
that the real author might die in the meantime, and at the least
the copyist will merit commendation for the excellent quality of his
"preserves." After all, it is a sorry business this pilfering; and the
root of the evil seems to be a vain desire to make people believe you
are the embodiment of all originality and ability yourself. It is very
proper and chivalrous to acknowledge the authorship of all declared
opinions or practices as far as possible, and such will always stand as
testimony in one's favour. He is a poor creature who imagines that
either his own exclusive practice or preaching will be accepted by
everybody without question, or that it will suit all cases.

If what has been stated be true, the new Alnwick Seedling Grape is
likely to be one of the best looking of late Grapes — being larger than
either the Alicante or Lady Downes in the berry. A good buncher
when it sets well, and taking on a splendid colour ; but it is not so
good as either of the other two to eat — being comparatively sour even
when quite ripe. We have tested fine-looking examples of it along
with the other two grown beside it, and no doubt could be entertained
of its more acid and less agreeable flavour.

Mr Burbidge's new book, * Gardens of the Sun,' is out, and contains
much suggestive information for the gardener ; but it is practically
beyond his reach — though we thought it was intended for him, as it
would certainly be more useful to him than anybody else : the price
is 14s. It is the publisher and not the author that arranges these
matters, we suppose ; but it seems a pity that cheap editions of such
works cannot be provided, like Scott's Novels, Shakespeare, and other
popular books. Any book that costs more than 5s. is too dear for the
gardener in a general way. Burbidge's ' Cultivated Plants ' has the
same fault as the other — it is nearly as dear. There is hardly a book
on garden literature that would be more useful to the gardener — par-
ticularly those who take an interest in hybridising and the raising of
new fruits and flowers, &c. ; but it is not well known amongst them.
A cheap edition of the latter, that would come within the reach of
young gardeners, and old ones too, is very desirable. * Gardens of the
Sun,' with its attractive title, which reminds one of some of Mayne
Reid's stirring romances, will, we daresay, interest a variety of readers ;
but 'Cultivated Plants' can only have an interest for a certain class,
and that class, as a rule, cannot afford to buy it. Reader.

G4 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

PRUNING ROSES.

Probably no more common subject could be selected to write on than
this, but for all that, the pruning of Roses is far from being generally-
understood or rightly performed in numerous instances. I believe it
would be a most difficult matter to find any one who owns a Rose-
bush who did not profess to know how and when to prune it — and
indeed pruning is an operation which every one claims a knowledge
of ; but this does not prevent us from seeing many mistakes and omis-
sions in it, — such as doing it at the wrong time, cutting off what
should be left on, and leaving on what should be cut off, taking too
much away, or more frequently not taking enough. In pruning fruit-
trees, one can hardly be wrong in doing it any time from, the fall of the
leaf until the buds are swelling again ; but it is different with Roses.
Were they pruned in autumn like fruit-trees, a week or two of mild
weather might excite the buds into growth any time during January
or February, and the March winds would more than likely destroy all
our dearest prospects of a Rose crop for that year. Supposing this to
take place when they are not pruned, it is only the buds at the ends
of the shoots that start into growth ; and this does not interfere in the
least with the lower buds, from which all the best blooming shoots
come. To simplify matters, we will class our Roses according to the
pruning they require, and begin with

HYBRID PERPETUALS.

Taking the numbers in cultivation into consideration, this is the
most popular of all classes of Roses ; and we are glad to learn that
those ugly standards with long stems and tufts of heads are fast giving
place to the more useful dwarfs. Before beginning to prune, it should
be taken into consideration, that according to the time of pruning, so
will the blooms come. If all the Roses are pruned on one day or in
one week, then most of them will come into flower together. Suppos-
ing a portion of the stock were pruned on the last days of February, a
few more about the middle of March, and the last about the beginning of
April, a much longer succession of blooms would be had during June,
July, and August, than by pruning the whole of them at any of these
times. Season and climate must also be taken into account, as some
may be able to prune their Roses days or weeks before others ; but
from the end of February to the beginning of April will include all
Roses and latitudes. Some kinds of Hybrid Perpetuals grow very
strong, others weak. This is not always owing to cultivation, but
often to constitution. Shy growers are not the best for ordinary culti-
vators. Those of the Paul Neron type are the kind. As their growth
so must the pruning be. Strong growers will always bear hard cut-
ting. The more wood they have formed, the more must be taken out.
The strongest shoots should be cut in to three or four buds from the

i88i.] PRUNING ROSES. 65

base ; all the weak shoots should be cut close off to where they have
started, not leaving a bud to form another shoot, as it is such as these
that produce a number of small fiowerless stems only to crowd up and
smother the others. Weak-growing varieties must be done in the same
way, but one or two more buds may be left on each stem. When the
plants are two or three years old, it takes some care to prevent the
dwarfs from assuming a semi-standard form, as by a loose way of
pruning the stems sometimes become some feet in length, with a num-
ber of smaller growths emitting from the top. To rectify this, the best
plan is to cut such stems down to a few inches from the ground, and
let them sprout afresh.

TEA KOSES, ETC.

The time to prune these should be the same as the others, but few
of them will bear or are beautified by hard cutting. Gloire de Dijon
is one of the most rampant amongst them. It is not well suited for
dwarf or standard in beds amongst others, but should be planted
where space is afforded to ramble. Here only the very smallest of the
shoots should be cut out, and the strong ones must only have their
points cut off, if it is desired that they should throw out shoots and
clusters of blooms from every bud. Marechal Mel has the same habit.
Others, when growing in beds, must all be pruned in proportion to the
growth they have made, but never heavily or too early, as many Tea
Roses have very delicate constitutions, and a severe winter or spring
often injures the wood to a considerable extent. We allow all our
Tea Roses to become more bushy than the H. P.'s, and the pruning
they get is simply a thinning out, not a cutting in ; and with the
majority this answers better than any other way we have tried. All
climbing Roses against walls, pillars, <kc., are treated in the same way —
always allowing the best formed and matured shoots to remain, and
never leaving any small growths that are likely to be fiowerless to make
any headway.

ROSES IN POTS AND UNDEE GLASS.

In many gardens the stock of these is ever increasing, and the
knowledge of this must be gratifying to all ardent Rose-growers — as of
all Roses, I think there are none so valuable as those gathered under
glass in January, February, March, and April. By care in pruning
and attention to selection, Roses in these months may easily be ob-
tained by all who can keep any glass structure from 40"' to 60° during
the time specified. H. P. pot-Roses must be pruned on the same
system as the same kinds out of doors, to regulate the time of
blooming and the distribution of the shoots. If wanted to bloom in
February or March, we would prune in October or November; if in
April or May, January would do. Teas planted out and in pots may
be treated differently ; many of them continue flowering all the

GG THE GARDENER. [Fef.

year through, if they can be induced to make fresh wood to supply the
blooms, and the way to accomplish this is to keep pruning at them
every month of the year. When one bud or cluster of flowers has
faded or been otherwise removed, the shoot which bore it should
be shortened back a little way, but leaving a number of buds, which
will soon sprout again, run into branches, and form buds and flowers,
to be reproduced by a repetition of the same operations.

J. MuiR.

M ARC AM.

HINTS FOR AMATEURS.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

There should now be a good preparation of soil in dry quarters to be
ready for use. During this month much potting may be done, and a
store of peat, loam, charcoal, sand, and healthy well-rotted leaf-mould
will be of much value. Potting, especially peat, soil should never be
dust-dry when used, and if very wet it is also objectionable. When pot-
ting early, and especially plants which have few roots, we never like
to use extra-rich soil, even when the plants may be gross feeders. The
absence of air causes soil to become sour and unhealthy. Good drain-
age and clean pots are of great moment for plants at any period of
their growth. The numerous specimens of New Holland plants which
flower at this season are invaluable for decorative purposes. Pure
water (rain-water is always best), fresh air, absence of crowding, no
coddling with heat — artificial heat only given to expel damp and keep
out frost, — good drainage, and cleanliness on every part, are indispen-
sable to the healthy growth of these plants. Correas (cardinalis is very
showy), Chorozemas, Lapagerias, Genetyllis, Grevilleas, Aotus, are now
most serviceable ; and when not pressed with heat will flower freely
far into the spring. Epacris, Erica, Hyemalis, Wilmoreii (autumn
Gracilis in middle of February are at their last), CafFra, and others
which have done service early and going out of flower, may be moder-
ately cut back and placed in a gentle moist heat till they show signs of
breaking. They then may be reduced at their balls and placed in
smaller or same sized pots ; and when growth is active they will do
well with ordinary greenhouse treatment. It is of importance to have
these early into flower during autumn and winter.

A few small plants of these bought each season are most serviceable.
It is a profitless operation to propagate small quantities of them. Tear
and wear by cutting, and confinement in rooms, are very destructive
to them. Cytisus atleeansis and racemosus, Coronillas, Camellias,
Acacias, Habrothamnus, Imantophyllums, Neriums, Sparmanniat^,
Plumbago capensis, Vallotas, Lachenalias, and some others, may be
everybody's plants, they are so easily grown, and all may be had

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 67

easily in flower at this season. If the roots of any of them are con-
fined, they may be cleared of their inert surfaces, and a thin coating
of rotten manure, loam, and peat substituted. Weak, clear manure-
water — like pale sherry — may be given to those flowering. The
short flowering period is often due to starvation of the confined
roots. Thick, muddy manure - water for such plants is ruinous.
Roses, bulbs of sorts, Hepaticas, Violets, Mignonette, Cinerarias (these
may require larger pots), Harrison's Musk, Primulas (double and
single). Cyclamens, and Pinks, are all favourites at this season. They
may be assisted with manure-water and rich surfaces ; their pots placed
into larger ones, with soil to root through into, may help to lengthen
their period of flowering. Force on Azaleas and all the hardy shrubs
and other plants suitable for winter and spring flowering — Deutzias,
Dielytras, Lily of the Valley, Lilacs, Spiraea japonica, Kalmias, Cherries,
Pyrus japonica. Thorns, Guelder Rose. Mock Oranges can now be
brought forward with gentle warmth. When the flowers begin to
open they may be removed to more airy and cool quarters.

Bouvardias, Epiphyllums, Burchellias, Libonias, Plumbago rosea,
and similar plants requiring heat, should (when in conservatory) be
placed away from draughts. Young stock of plants should be kept
free from green-fly ; none should be huddled together ; give air and
light to all.

STOVE.

For the plants in this department a good stock of peat and loam is
indispensable. The days being longer, and the sun expected to be
more powerful, it is a favourable period to get all the inmates of
stoves examined as to the condition of their roots. When it is neces-
sary to increase the plant to the size of a specimen, any inert soil
may be cleared away and the ball planted firmly into a pot one size
larger than its former one. The soil and roots should be moist when
they are transferred to the larger shift ; firm potting is in most cases
desirable. Some mutilate the ball by cutting it severely with the
view of allowing the roots to be free to run into the new soil at once ;
but it often takes them much longer to recover from the " chopping-
off" method than the taking to the fresh soil by the "pot-bound" ball
of roots, and the check is immensely greater. All plants require some
help at this time ; but to pot all and sundry, whether they require it
or not, is mischief which will show itself in due time. Where roots
may be scarce, use a minimum size of pots, and the soil more sandy
than for vigorous healthy roots. Peat, sand, turfy loam, with some
charcoal added, suits most stove-plants. Fleshy, strong-rooted kinds
require little in the way of peat to grow in. When potting is done,
cleaning the structure in every part should have attention. Where
there is no separate structure in which plants are to flower, there is a
difticulty in making the one structure answer all purposes. The
syringe must be used cautiously among flowering subjects. Amaryllis,

68 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

Erantliemums, Epipliyllums, Eucbaris, Euphorbias, Jasminum, Sam-
bac, Pancratimns, Poiiisettias, Begonias in great variety, Plumbago
rosea, Gesnerias, Stephanotis, Gardenias, Scutellarias, Thyrsocanthus,
Libonias, may either be in flower or going out. While under the
latter condition they may be kept on the dry side for a short time,
trimmed in in some cases, then started into growth ; and cuttings may
be had from the young growtlis of many of them. A young stock of
the shrubby kinds is raised yearly, and the old ones thrown away.
Temperatures after potting a stock of plants must be kept higher, and
moisture given proportionately. 60° to 65° by fire-heat may be a fair
temperature, but where no potting has yet been done less will do.

Gesnerias, Gloxinias, Caladiums, and Achimenes may be started
forthwith. A portion of the house which can be used for bottom-
heat is exceedingly useful for starting plants into growth ; but the
continuous plunging of plants is seldom practised now. Shading must
now be put in order, and used only when sun is bright. The state of
the weather is the only guide in such matters.

Now is a favourable time to get up a stock of Ferns. They divide
well, and will root readily into the fresh soil. Some of the kinds take
much more loam than others. Loam and peat suit most kinds.

FLOWER GARDEN.

In this departmeat there is little which can be added in a calendar to
what has been advised for January, — a general examination of the stock, young
and old, to supply plants for the beds next season. Get growth active, so that
vigorous cuttings may be had ; weakly stunted ones are diflBcult to root, and
are long in making good plants. When the cuttings are active they root
without any check, and are large when they are turned out. This applies to
Verbenas, Alternantheras, Iresines (the two last require to be in heat late,
as they are tender and cannot be bedded out early). Heliotropes, Petunias,
Fuchsias, &c. A good stock of hardy plants of tine foliage, such as Sedums,
Cerastiums, Ajugas, Arabis of sorts, &c., are all useful, and can always meet
a shortcoming. Pansies of the better class now so favourably known are
most useful, especially where ground is rich and deep. Dahlias and Canuas
kept as stove roots may be examined, and if the stock is short they may be
potted, boxed, and placed into heat to be increased. Calceolarias may be
taken from their cutting-pits and planted in turfy loam, to be afterwards lifted
with balls to the beds. See that green-fly does not have its own way. Fumi-
gate with tobacco-smoke where it appears. Pot Geraniums, or plant them in
pits, using turfy soil, which will adhere to the root when they are transferred
to the beds : finer kinds, or those which may be scarce, should not be put
with the general stock. All hardy plants in pits or frames must be kept free
from damp by abundance of air. Slugs may be lurking among the plants ; they
should have fresh lime thrown in their tracks. All hardy plants to flower
in pots, such as Chrysanthemums, Lobelia cardinalis, &c., should be kept
away from the bedding-stock, so that they may have proper treatment. Shrubs
and trees may be planted when ground is in condition ; but Evergreens we
would prefer leaving till they were about to grow in April.

i88i.l DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 69

HARDY FRUITS.

To say much about these will be a recapitulation of the past few months'
practice. Many, however, do not think of planting their fruit-trees before
this month and onwards, and we have more than once planted when they
were coming into leaf. Where the work remains unfinished, no opportunity
should be lost in bringing it to an end. Eather than be advised entirely by
any material in print on the subject of kinds, see which do well in the
district ; consider soil and altitude as well as latitude. As an example, we
visited a friend who grows Apples and Plums largely on his farm, and he
plants with the view of getting a crop every season. Last autumn his orchards
were a sight to be remembered, every tree being loaded ; but there were other
items worthy of notice (not of imitation) — weeds of every description were
growing in their rankest form among the trees, — Gooseberries, Currants, vege-
tables, and some Roses smothering each other ; yet the trees were loaded.
No cultivation is attempted, nor considered necessary. Soil of rocky marl, in
which the roots become a mass of fibre but grow freely, secures the fruit-
crops in this jungle. Prune, stake, train, mulch, destroy moss and lichens —
do whatever trees and bushes may require. The coming months will bring
plenty of work with them. Make cuttings of Gooseberries and Currants ; a
few in store are often useful. M. T.

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

VALLOTA PURPUREA.

One of the choicest and most useful of our greenhouse flowering
bulbs is the Vallota purpurea. This charming plant is a native of
the Cape of Good Hope, and is worthy of a place in the most limited
collection of plants ; in fact no collection, however small, should be
without it. Either as a dinner-table plant for room decoration, or
in the conservatory, it is equally suitable and equally admired. It
takes rank among the Amaryllids ; and indeed in its habit, foliage,
and shape of flowers, it very much resembles the Amaryllis, only
that the flowers are smaller and a self-colour, which is bright scarlet.
Why it is called purpurea I cannot tell, as there is certainly nothing
purple about it. At no stage of its growth does it require a higher
temperature than that of the ordinary greenhouse. It nevertheless
stands forcing very well, and when introduced to a hot pit or stove,
will quickly throw up its flower-stems, provided it has been previously
sufficiently well ripened. The ripening process, however, should not
be carried to the length of causing it to lose its foliage ; and herein
it diff'ers from the Amaryllis, being an evergreen bulb, and should
on no account be allowed to lose its foliage through starvation : the
ripening process must be carried out by limiting the supply of
moisture and increasing the amount of air, — of course seeing that
it has made its growth previously.

My remarks apply to its treatment as a greenhouse plant coming
into flower in its natural season, rather than as a plant subjected to
the process of forcing. It is propagated by off'sets, or small bulbs

70 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

formed at the sides of the old ones. In potting, which should be
done about the middle or end of February, the bulbs ought to be
assorted, keeping the flowering-bulbs by themselves. These should be
potted, say in 6-inch pots, which is a very useful size for general
decorative work. Five or six bulbs may be put into each pot ; and
of course, if large specimens are wanted, large pots should be used,
and bulbs put in in proportion. The smaller bulbs may then be
potted in 4-inch or 6-inch pots, as may be most convenient, putting
in a number of bulbs according to size of pots or size of bulbs — and
these can be grown on for future flowering.

The soil best adapted to their wants consists of fibry loam and
peat in equal quantities, with a good dash of sharp sand and a
little fine old manure incorporated with it, or failing this a handful of
ground bones. The plants must not be over-watered until they begin
to make fresh growth ; but after they are fairly on the way, and
throughout the summer, they must get an abundant supply.

From the end of May and onwards, they will do very well in a
cold pit or frame, kept near the glass, and a moderate supply of air
given every day. They will flower during the autumn months from
the end of August. Some cultivators repot the bulbs as soon as
they have done flowering, and keep them growing on during the
winter, only with a lessened supply of water during the dull winter
months. I consider it to be more a matter of routine than any-
thing else whether they be potted in autumn or early in spring. I
have tried both ways, and could see no material difference, only
that being repotted into fresh soil in autumn, they required some-
what more careful looking after throughout the winter, and it may
be that they will come into flower a little earlier ; but they are less
liable to come to harm if wintered in the pots in which they had
flowered, which, of course, are full of roots, and will stand a greater
degree of cold with impunity. They will winter safely in a tempera-
ture of about 45°. J. G., W.

THE HOLLYHOCK.

Any one who has a stock of Hollyhocks should now propagate as many
as he can. If the old stock plants had been lifted in the early part
of winter, potted and placed where a little growth has been made
since, they will, during the beginning of this month, be in the
proper condition to manufacture into plants by root-grafting. The
way to do this is to get some healthy Hollyhock roots, preferring those
with growing rootlets, and cut up as many as are required. Then take
off the offsets with as much stem as can be got ; prepare these first by
cutting the stem half through, and slit the stem up, removing the half
of it up to the cross-cut ; then select a root of as near as possible the
same thickness, and cut it to fit into the stem of the graft. Run a pin

i88i.] THE HOLLYHOCK. 71

through the two, and a strand of matting round them, and pot into 4-
inch pots. When all are grafted the pots should be plunged in a mild
bottom-heat, and the plants kept moderately airy and not over warm.
These make good plants for putting out in April with those pro-
pagated the preceding autumn. The other modes of propagating
named sorts are by cuttings from near the root, through the summer, and
by cutting the partially hardened stem into single eyes, and inserting
them in boxes or frames in sandy soil. Both cuttings and eyes should
be kept as cool as possible, under which conditions they produce
good plants before winter. The Hollyhock comes very true to char-
acter from seed. The best time to sow is about the beginning of Sep-
tember, in a cold frame, where they should remain throughout the
winter. Plants from earlier-sown seeds make too much growth, and
do not come through the winter so well. The Hollyhock cannot get
too deep a soil, or one too rich for its wants, in order to obtain strong
spikes and large blooms. Deep and rich soils carry the plants through
spells of hot weather without needing to have recourse to the watering-
pot every other day, and in all cases amply repay the work and man-
ure laid out on them. In such soils the plants ought to be planted
not closer than four feet from each other, — more if space can be
spared. Hollyhocks do well and look well in mixed borders, and
here more room can be allowed them than when grown together in
beds. Long and strong stakes are necessary early in summer ; but
in tying take care that the ties are not so tight as to cut the fast-
thickening stems. Spikes intended for exhibiting should have the
tops pinched out, and the blooms, where too thickly set, thinned out.
Shading must also be provided. This is economically and efficiently
provided by swathing the spikes in newspapers — of course, providing
means of keeping the papers off the blooms.

Last year there were plants offered for sale reputed to be free from
the Hollyhock disease, and many more than usual were grown through-
out the country. In some localities it seems, from information I have
received, that the plants did well and kept free from the fungus — at
least to an extent that was not noticeable. In my own case, I bought
from a source warranted perfectly " clean ; " but on one or two of the
plants I found the fungus. The infected leaves were removed, and I
determined to try and stamp out the fungus if it was simply confined
to these plants. As growth proceeded the few specimens which
appeared were removed by cutting them out of the leaf and burning.
This did very well for a time, until the fungus appeared in hundreds
on stems as well as leaves. Then the plants were cut down underneath
the soil right into the root-stock. The shoots which broke were very
soon in a like condition with those which were removed, and they were
again cut over in the same way. The plants had only time to com-
mence a fresh growth before winter when the plants were lifted for
spring propagation. Clean off-growths propagated in summer went

72 , THE GARDENER. [Feb.

exactly the same way as the parent stocks. Curiously enough, in one
locality where the Hollyhock has done well during the past year, the
common Mallows by the waysides were covered with the fungus. The
question is altogether a puzzling one — why, in some districts, the
fungus should attack the plants, and in another, where the fungus was
most abundant, the plants should escape. It has been noted before how
curious it is that the common Mallow should live and perform its func-
tions under a crop of the parasite which kills the Hollyhock ; but in the
Mallow the leaf alone appears to be subject to attack, while in the
Hollyhock, not only the leaves but the stems are affected. If the stems
were not subjected to attack, it is probable the fungus would not prove
of such a deadly character as it is. Should we now be in for a few
years of really fine summers, it will be seen whether the Hollyhock
will not again go under, as it is only during the last few years that any
progress seems to have been made in getting up healthy stocks.

R. P. B.

FLOWER- GARDElSriNG— THE BEDDING- OUT OR
MASSING SYSTEM.

It would appear that this system of arranging the various kinds of
plants employed in the decoration of the flower-garden will soon be a
thing of the past. At least, if the advice of some writers on horticul-
tural subjects is followed, bedding-out must go, "bag and baggage,"
before long.

The present opposition to the style of flower-gardening that has
been in the ascendant for some years past, is the result of the teaching
of an eminent " arm-chair " gardener. He, in the seclusion of his
study, has discovered that hardy plants are beautiful, and the most
suitable subjects for out-door flower-gardening. It is only plants of
certain stature, however — dwarfs and creeping things, — that finds
favour with gardeners of the above type. Any species or varieties,
however beautiful their flowers may be, if they require support in the
way of stakes, are reluctantly admitted into the " hardy brigade ; "
and, as a consequence, the greater number of the most beautiful,
showy, and useful of our hardy herbaceous plants are not admissible
in the ideal flower-garden of those who advocate the abandonment of
the bedding-out system.

Fancy the result of excluding from the herbaceous garden the stately
Delphiniums, the beautiful Asterlike - flowered Pyrethrums, several
species of the Lily family, Carnations, all the taller kinds of Phloxes,
and a host of representative members of other families that in this
windy island of ours it is absolutely necessary to stake, in some way
or other, if we would see them in all their beauty, and not as be-
draggled, bespattered, betattered objects — highly illustrative of their
fitness for admission into the ragged brigade !

1 88 1.] FLOWER- GARDENING. 73

There is no use talking about doing without staking in the hardy-
herbaceous garden, unless we, at the same time, do without ''the cream"
of hardy herbaceous plants. "Order and neatness" at all seasons
are the chief charms of a " fair garden ; " and order and neatness
cannot be maintained by going over the beds and borders '' about four
times" during the summer season, not even in the case where "hardy
plants exclusively " are planted. To keep borders or beds of hardy
herbaceous plants in an enjoyable condition, they will need going
over at least once a-fortnight, from March to October ; and if they get
a little tidying up once a-week during that time, they will look all the
better for it. It is not quite clear to me what the opponents of the
bedding-out system are finding fault with in particular. Do they
object to the bedding-out or massing system as a system of arranging
plants of any kind ? Or is their objection only to employing half-
hardy plants out of doors in the summer season 1 If their quarrel is
with the massing system, whether the plants be hardy or half-hardy,
or a combination of both, then I venture to say that by no other sys-
tem can so grand a display, as a whole, be produced, and, at the same
time, the individual or special characteristics of the various plants
employed be preserved. In the mixed or promiscuous system of
arrangement, the special characters of individual classes are lost in
the mass when the beds or borders are looked at from a little
distance.

If the objection is mainly directed against the employment of half-
hardy flowering and ornamental-foliaged plants, then I ask. In what
way is the flower-gardening of the present time superior to that of
forty years ago, if not in the use of suitable members, in judicious
numbers, of this class of plants 1 Was it not by the employment of the
class of plants just referred to that flower-gardening was got out of the
groove in which it had moved for generations previous to their intro-
duction to the beds and borders? and does not their presence give
life and beauty to the flower-garden during the summer and autumn
months, that is unattainable by the use of hardy herbaceous plants
alone 1 It is not, however, by employing tender, and excluding hardy
plants, or vice versd, that the most interesting and beautiful display of
flowers can be maintained in the flower-garden the year through, but
by the employment of suitable members of both sections arranged in
the bedding-out or massing style. Some practitioners, however, are
so extreme in their ideas, that to pursue a middle course in anything
is highly distasteful to them. Hence, in the matter of flower-garden-
ing, if their idea for the time being is in favour of tender plants, those
of a hardy nature are rigorously excluded from their arrangements.
Borders, hundreds of feet long.by tens of feet broad, are bedded out
year after year with tender plants, and these only. The pattern may
be changed from year to year — one year the panel, another the ribbon,
or it may be the carpet or cushion style is selected,— but whatever

74 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

shape the plan may take, tender plants are used in working it out.
After some years' trial it is thought that this style of flower-gardening
with tender plants costs more than it is worth ; and panels, ribbons,
carpets, and cushions of tender plants are unceremoniously set aside
and replaced with hardy plants, arranged in the promiscuous style,
with a view of reducing the cost of flower-gardening. Well, it would
not be a difficult matter to lessen the expenditure still further. Why
not turn the herbaceous garden into a "wild garden T' The latter
style of flower-garden is the most natural. The blooming season in it
is quite as long as in any other style, and by adopting it we get quit
of the necessity for hoeing and raking, tying and staking, mowing and
sweeping, and all the keeping incidental to other styles.

Some may object to contrasting the herbaceous with the wild garden
in the matter of keeping or otherwise. Well, the comparison is just
as fair as in the case of a garden bedded out with tender plants and
one devoted to herbaceous plants only. The systems are different ;
and, in my opinion, praising the one and condemning the other is a
mistake. Each has its own peculiar beauties to present us with, and
it is only those of one idea that would restrict us to one or the other
system, or to a choice between hardy and half-hardy plants for the
decoration of the flower-garden. In our own case we use both hardy
and half-hardy plants as bedding-out plants, and we find the plan
answers our purpose ; and before discontinuing it, the objections
urged against it will have to be of a different kind to any that have
hitherto been advanced.

It would also appear, from the teaching of the authority referred to at the
beginning of this paper, that we are not only wrong as regards the class of
plants we employ at present in the decoration of our flower-gardens, but that
we are also wrong in keeping our gardens in so orderly and clean a state as
is usually the case. We are seriously informed that "the eternal raking and
scraping and brushing of the garden leads to primness and ugliness — starves
the trees, and causes endless labour for worse than nothing." Now here is
information for lovers of well-kept gardens ; but it is just the kind that might
be looked for from any one who prefers to see Carnations tossed about and
spoiled — so far as their flowers are concerned — by the force of the wind, rather
than supply them with supports in the way of neat stakes.

I am of opinion, however, that there are not many ^yradical gardeners who
have such a superabundance of labour at their disposal, as leads them to
expend it in creating "primness and ugliness" in the gardens under their
charge. With " arm-chair " gardeners, however, the case may be different.
The outdoor departments under their care may not be extensive enough to
employ all their leisure time in a profitable manner ; and hence for the sake
of bodily exercise they may at times overdo the raking and scraping, brush-
ing and scrubbing business. The same teacher condemns the practice of col-
lecting leaves after they have fallen from the trees, and also the cutting of
grass in flower-gardens. He says, "The leaves should be allowed to fall and
rest on and nourish the surface. " Well, we cannot prevent the leaves from
falling, neither can we compel them to rest on the surface where they fall.

i88i.] THE FRUIT-GARDEN. 75

After dropping from the trees, they are constantly being shifted from place to
place by every breeze that blows ; and unless they are gathered and put away,
the majority of them get driven into quiet corners and sheltered nooks, where
their presence is of no use.

No doubt, to allow leaves after they have fallen from the trees to remain
ungathered about lawns and pleasure-grounds, we would thereby provide in
the garden amusement and information of certain kinds for the inmates of the
dwelling-house, without putting them to the trouble of going out of doors to
see the performance or acquire the knowledge. It would also produce some
mirth to see the young ladies of the house going forth to visit their floral
favourites after a summer shower, with their feet and legs encased in clogs and
leather gaiters, or mounted on stilts to prevent themselves from getting wet feet
and draggled tails, each armed with a long-handled rake or scraper, wherewith
to search for their pets among the long grass, rotten boughs, and half-rotten
leaves. The fair ones might not think this the most comfortable way in which
to take a stroll about the flower-garden on a sultry summer afternoon ; but the
picturesque appearance they would exhibit while going to and fro, extricating
"spreading colonies of choice things" from dead leaves and other rubbish
in various stages of decay, would in some measure recompense them for any
little inconvenience they might suffer through the use of the gaiters and stilts.

When sitting by a window on a dry breezy day, it is very amusing to watch
withered leaves "racing and chasing "each other, like the pursuers of young
Lochinvar on Cannobie Lee, up and down the lawns, in and out amongst the
shrubs and trees, gathering in thousands, and forming little irregular-shaped
hillocks here, bolting up in the air Will-o'-wisp fashion yonder, gambolling,
turning somersaults, and cutting all sorts of antics like legions of "leaflets"
out for a holiday. Then by observing the direction in which the majority are
travelling, a pretty correct idea may be formed of the direction in which the
wind is blowing at the time, without vacating the chair to consult the weather-
cock. On these grounds, it might be advisable to discontinue the practice of
collecting the leaves as they fall from the trees ; but I fear there are not many
gardeners or their employers who will think so. J. H., B.

THE FRUIT -GARDEN.

No. 11.

THE GRAPE VINE.

If there is to be an inside border, you will require to build up pillars
from the bottom on which to rest your flue — for we advise you to build
a flue so that you may apply a little fire-heat when necessary ; and a
flue, constructed of 6-inch glazed pipes, will answer your purpose ad-
mirably, and be much cheaper than a boiler and hot-water pipes. Had
your house been larger, we would have advised you to have a boiler, as
heating by hot-water is more economical in large houses — or a series
of them— than flues ; but for a small house such as yours, where only
a little heat is wanted occasionally, we certainly think a flue, such as
we have recommended, is best. It is important to have it resting on a

76 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

foundation that will not sink, for the joints must be properly cemented
to prevent smoke escaping ; and if they are allowed to sink with a loose
sinking border, the cement will crack and the smoke escape. Pillars
of a single brick on bed, at each joint of the pipes, will prove suflScient
support. Of course, if your border is to be wholly outside, you may
save yourself this trouble.

The fireplace should be at one end, seeing that another person occu-
pies the ground at the back of the house ; otherwise the back would
have been the best place for it. Never mind ; just build your fireplace
12 or IS inches below the level of the flue, and the same as you
would a fireplace for a boiler. You may put it pretty well under
the house, for economy's sake, and cover it over with a fire-brick
cover, and lead your flue along within 2 feet of the front wall, and
right out through the wall at the other end ; and then lead it up, by
means of a metal or other pipe, a foot or two higher than your house,
and your heating apparatus is complete.

And now we will return to the border when you have laid down the
drainage with a turf upside-down over it. The next thing to do is to
fill in the soil ; but of course the soil must be prepared beforehand.
The best soil you can possibly get is turf from an old pasture ; and if
you dared, or could get liberty, to take a few cartloads from off the
park just over the wall, you would be all right. I daresay you cannot.
But you need not put on a rueful face ; for we only said that such was
the best kind of soil. But you have a good heap of soil which you
wheeled from off the site of the house, and that will do very well for
mixing along with the best you can get. The turfy material which is
to be had along the sides of the turnpike roads will do capitally : we
have seen it used with good results before now. As much of this as
you have soil in your heap, when mixed with it, will make enough
of soil to fill up 4 feet of your border ; and that will be a good be-
ginning for this year. Then you have a fine heap of horse-droppings,
which your boys collected off the roads, — and for manure nothing bet-
ter could be desired. You should also get some bones — a couple of
barrow-loads, if possible — to furnish phosphates to the plants ; for the
bunches of Grapes need phosphates. Further, some gritty matter, such
as burnt rubbish, or lime -rubbish, or broken stones, is necessary to
keep the whole mass open, so that the roots may run freely, and the
water may not stagnate in it.

Having got these materials together, they will need some mixing
before putting into the border. The turfy stuff must be chopped up
into pieces, but not too finely. Having done so, put a layer of it
down 6 inches thick ; then a layer of the gritty material ; then an inch
of the manure and a sprinkling of bones ; then a layer of common
soil, gritty matter, manure and bones, as before, and over all a sprink-
ling of hot lime. Repeat this until all your material is worked up.
If any urine is to be had, a good soaking should be given to the heap,

i88i.] THE FRUIT -GARDEN. 77

— for urine, especially cow's, is rich in potash salts — in order to have
strong vigorous growths, without which you may look for fine fruit in
vain. If you have used wood-ashes for opening material, they will
also supply potash.

After your heap has lain a few weeks, it will be ready to put into the
border ; but in so doing it must be mixed. To do this properly, the
heap should be sliced perpendicularly with the spade. Fill in the soil
some inches higher than the floor level, and do not be afraid of tread-
ing it down if it is dry ; but if it is the least pasty, allow it to sink of
itself. Year by year you may add to the breadth of your border, until
it is 16 or 20 feet, or even more, broad.

Having settled the question of soil, we must now think of plants,
and how to plant them. The best kind, if you are to put in the flue —
which'we hope, for your own sake, you will — is Black Hamburg. This
is regarded as the most desirable Grape, by the most extensive growers
in this country, even for their purpose ; so you can understand that it
is a good one. It is, moreover, very easily grown, and is just the thing
for you. We would strongly advise you to stick to this ; but if you
are determined to have a white one, let it be Reeves's Muscadine, or
Foster's Seedling, for such vineries as yours ; and we do not recommend
you to grow a collection. You cannot grow any more than four plants
in your house, for you must have 3 feet from plant to plant to allow
them proper room. Our advice is to have three of these Black Ham-
burgs. The best plants to buy are well-ripened canes of last year's
raising. When you buy them, see that they are not stunted plants that
have been cut back. After you have got them, water them when neces-
sary, and keep them in the pots until they begin to grow. When they
do so, rub off all the buds as they start except two, which should be left
about 4 inches from the surface of the pot ; but no pruning should
be done, or they may bleed ; then turn them out of the pots, disen-
tangle the roots, and plant them, with the roots spread out near the
surface, as you would plant anything else. After planting give them
a soaking of water at a temperature of 100° F., and mulch with rotted
manure. They should be placed about 6 or 8 inches from the front
wall. We are of course presuming that they are to be planted inside.
If the border is wholly outside, the plants will require planting outside,
and holes must be made in the front wall through which the canes will
pass into the inside of the house. In this case the buds must be left
further up the canes — just as far up as will allow of the plants being
planted outside, and the growing buds reaching a foot or so inside the
house. The holes and exposed part of the Vines should then be covered
over with straw to prevent the sap getting chilled, or the wind from
blowing through the holes — which ought to be 4 inches in diameter —
and so chilling and stopping the growth of the young shoots.

J. H.
{To he continued.)

78 THE GARDENER. [Fer.

THE CHINESE PRIMULA.
Perhaps amongst autumn, winter, and sjiring flowering plants there
is none that can surpass the Primula for general usefulness, and noth-
ing better exists for the amateur's greenhouse or as a window-plant.
For room-decoration it continues in good condition for a long time, and
is invaluable. The Primula is easy of cultivation and most floriferous,
continuing to produce its llowers during winter in continuous succes-
sion. Many beautiful new forms are from time to time offered, but
when really good strains of P. sinensis, fimbriata, rubra, and alba
are obtained, none are much if any better.

If wanted to bloom in autumn, seed should be sown any time during
the present month : if not until spring, the operation of sowing can be
deferred some few weeks longer. Hitherto I have failed to see the
utility of making successional sowings, as out of one pan of seed there
is generally a good succession of plants, which should be sorted, when
pricked out of the seed-pan, into two or three sizes, and placed in sep-
arate pans. Many experience difficulty in getting Primula-seed to
germinate, which need not be the case if the seed is good to start with.
Square pans or 6-inch pots, according to the quantity of seed to be
sown, should be liberally drained, and the drainage covered with a
layer of moss. They should be filled with a light compost of equal
parts of loam and leaf-mould, with a liberal dash of silver sand. The
soil placed on the top of the pan or pot should have passed through a
rather fine sieve. The surface of the pan should be made level, but
not pressed too firmly, and the seed should be evenly sown over the
surface. No attempt should be made to thoroughly cover the seeds ;
a little fine leaf -mould I have found the best to scatter amongst the
seeds. Many failures result from covering the seed too deeply. After
sowing, the pans should be thoroughly watered through a fine rose,
and a square of glass placed over it covered with a little moss. The
more heat the pans are placed in, the sooner germination takes place,
but a temperature of 60'' is ample ; or the seed will do in a much
lower temperature in case the former cannot be maintained. Care
must be taken that the pans do not suffer for the want of water
until the seed has germinated. When growth commences, the glass
over the pans must be tilted so as to admit light and air to strengthen
the seedlings. Exposure to light must be gradual at first, until the
glass and moss can be entirely removed : at no time should strong sun
strike upon the seedlings while so tender and young. It is surprising
how soon their tiny roots lay hold of the leaf-mould scattered amongst
the seed. When large enough, the seedlings should be pricked into
pots or pans and sorted as referred to above, using much the same soil
with a little larger proportion of loam. This time none of the soil
will need to go through a sieve — an operation I never practise except
in the case of a few fine seeds. After the seedlings are pricked off,
they should be placed in the shade for a time until they commence

i88i.] THE CHINESE PRIMULA. 79

rooting afresh, when they may be put as close to the glass as pos-
sible, shading them from direct sunshine, but allowing them all the
light they can bear. Air must be admitted on favourable occasions,
so as to keep the young plants dwarf and stocky. If in a nice
growing temperature, they will soon be ready to be placed in 2-inch
pots, which should be clean and liberally drained, as in all stages
Primulas dislike sour or stagnant soil about their roots. When the
young plants reach this stage, if a close frame can be given them where
gentle warmth can be maintained, so much the better. The frame
should be kept close until root-action commences and the plants have
taken to the new soil, when they can be gradually hardened and grown
under cooler conditions. The hardening process must be done care-
fully, or a check may be occasioned and the plants stand still for a long
time. They should be arranged as close to the glass as practicable,
over a moist cool bottom. As the season advances and all fear of frost
is past, they can be grown in cold frames with abundance of air ; and
when the nights become sufficiently warm, air can be left on all night.

Potting should be attended to from time to time as the plants re-
quire it, until they are placed in 5- and 6-inch pots, which is large
enough for all ordinary purposes ; but if larger plants are required,
7-inch pots can be used. Care must be taken that the plants never
become pot-bound while in small pots, or rapid progress is considerably
impeded. When potting, the plants should be placed sufficiently low
in the pots to keep them firm at the collar. Many cultivators are care-
ful not to bury the collar when potting, for fear of the plants damping
off. They are in consequence tumbling in every direction if moved,
and liable to be injured unless small stakes are placed round them to
keep them upright and steady. There is no fear of the plants damp-
ing when deep potting is practised. Primulas delight in a light rich
soil composed of rich fibry loam, leaf -mould, a little well-prepared cow-
dung, and a small percentage of broken charcoal, with plenty of coarse
sand to keep the whole porous.

Watering is an important item in growing Primulas, and the water-
pot should be used judiciously. They should never suffer for the want
of it, or be saturated : an intermediate state appears to suit them best.
For some time after the operation of potting, water should be very
carefully applied. Stimulants are necessary when the pots are well
filled with roots, and nothing acts quicker upon the plants than clear
soot- water. Primulas do not care for much water over their foliage,
and slight dewing only is necessary on very warm afternoons.

The plants cannot endure strong sunshine, and must be shaded dur-
ing bright weather : at the same time the shading must not be so
heavy as to exclude light. They will do well in cold frames until the
approach of frost, and in any house during winter where frost is ex-
cluded. Shelves close to the glass are capital places for them. The
earliest batch can be allowed to come into bloom any time in early

80 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

autumn according to circumstances, and will continue for months in a
temperature of 45° to 50" according to the external temperature.

The double varieties supersede the single ones for cutting purposes ;
and for bouquet-making they are admirably adapted, and last a long
time in a cut state. Wm. Baedney.

LUCULIA PINCEANA.

This is one of the finest of all choice winter-blooming shrubs, and as
it does not require a high winter temperature — indeed does best in a
comparatively cool and moist house (40° at night will do it no barm) —
it deserves to be seen more often than is now the case. In the cul-
ture of this plant there is a little secret. Never be tempted to repot it
on any account, a remark which applies to L. gratissima with equal
force. The finest plant I ever saw was purchased from a nursery in a
6-inch pot. After growing in the same pot for some years and doing
well, it was decided to plant it out in a border in a warm conservatory.
In performing the operation the plant was not turned out of the pot,
but the drainage-hole was enlarged without injury to the roots, and
the pot was plunged in the prepared border at the foot of a pillar,
where it is now a picture worth going miles to see, each growth being
terminated by a cluster of fragrant pink blossoms or buds. I know of
several people who have lost L. gratissima simply owing to the opera-
tion of repotting ; and I advise every one who may intend to grow these
plants to plunge the pot and allow the roots to find their own way out
of the pot, rather than risk the plant by turning it out and repotting in
the usual way. These plants are so sweet and welcome in mid-winter,
that all having a warm greenhouse should grow them ; and if the above
advice is followed, I am vain enough to think that they will not vanish
from collections so mysteriously as is now sometimes the case. Both
species may be increased by careful layering, each branchlet separately
in a 6-inch pot. They are by no means easy to increase, hence the
rather long price in the catalogues of the few trade-growers who have
them to offer. F. W. B.

EUCHARIS AMAZONICA.

Though much has been written about this beautiful plant, I feel con-
strained to bring it once more before the notice of your readers.
I may not be able, perhaps, to impart anything new concerning it ;
but if I can draw the attention of your readers to its merits, especially
at this season of the year, so that it may be more extensively culti-
vated, and receive the attention it so well deserves, my object will be
fully attained.

Perhaps there are few plants more easy of cultivation than this, if
the conditions under which it is cultivated approximate to the climate

i88i.] STOKING. 81

of its native habitat, and its seasons of growth and rest are governed
according to nature's laws. I believe that half of the failures are due.
to the want of a proper season of rest ; but if properly managed,
there are few plants more accommodating, or more under control. By-
regulating its growth and rest it can be had in bloom at any season
of the year, and can be made to bloom two or three times a-year if
necessary, although I would not recommend blooming it more than
three, as it exhausts the energy of the plant. We have had a grand
display of it here for some time, which has prompted this paper. One
large plant has forty-eight flower-spikes, bearing 240 blooms, all of
good substance — a lovely sight. In all, there have been nearly 1000
blooms since the Chrysanthemums were over. For cut-flower decora-
tion, about Christmas especially, and through the dull season of the
year, they are invaluable.

I may here give our mode of culture, which is very simple. We pot
them in a compost of peat and loam, and place them in a temperature
of from 70° to 80°, which suits them very well during their growing
period. While making their growth they occasionally get a little
weak liquid manure, from sheep-droppings, with a little soot. After
they have finished their growth they are removed to a temperature of
from 50° to 60°, and kept moderately dry at the roots. They should
have a rest of two months at least, after which they may be again
subjected to more heat to make them bloom. P. Mathieson.

- HoLMEWOOD Park, Tuxbridge Wells.

STOKING.

Theee are few subjects of importance to gardeners that are not dis-
cussed in the pages of the 'Gardener' by thoroughly practical men,
and it cannot be said that the heating of our horticultural structures
has been left out in the cold. The qualities of various boilers, the im-
portance of economy of fuel, the circulation of the water in pipes, &c.,
have been discussed at some length ; bad stoke-holes and bad stokers
have been condemned, and the advantage of improved stoke-holes and
good stokers have been commended. In the face of this, it may seem
superfluous for me to write more on the subject. The economic
management of our fires is, however, a matter of sufficient import-
ance, I venture to think, to warrant its being again brought before
your young readers at this season, many of whom will be fresh to the
stoke-holes since the publication of some of those articles. I shall
confine my remarks to a few plain directions as to the management
of the "fires," and will commence by pointing out what has to be
done in the morning. In the first place, pull the damper well out
and keep the ashpit-door closed, so that the smoke and dust do not
come out at the furnace-door when you begin to stir the fire. If the

82 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

fire is well burned down, take the shovel or soot -hoe and push as
much of the fire as you can back to the further end of the furnace. If
there are any clinkers, they will probably be run together in a cake
all over the bars. If it is cool and strong enough to be got out whole,
so much the better. To do this, insert the instrument provided for
this purpose under it at one side, turn it right over so as to leave all
the hot ashes, and lift it out, balancing it on the bent end of your
iron. When clinkers do not come out whole, the pieces must be
picked out as well as possible and placed on one side at once, so as to
avoid, as far as possible, having to breathe the sulphur emitted by
them while finishing your operations. If the fire is not sufficiently
burned down to admit of this being done, do not poke it up, as fifty
per cent of men do, breaking the clinkers up and mixing them with
the cinders, from which it is impossible to separate them ; but insert
the poker parallel with the bars, and work it backward and forward
without using it as a lever to disturb the fire in any way, but simply
dislodge the ashes, and so admit air. When coal is used, and has got
caked over, break it a little, and leave it till it is burned down, when
the clinkers may be taken out. Some young men keep continually
stirring at their fire till they get it half full of small clinkers, which
generally ends in its being found out some morning when it can be
least spared. Coals such as are used for this purpose do require a
certain amount of stirring, but a coke-fire should never be stirred
except in the manner above described. Slow combustion stoves are
perhaps the worst form of boiler to keep clear of clinkers, because of
the smallness of the furnace-door. The best plan I find is to get a
J- or f-inch iron rod with 3 inches of its length bent at right angles
and slightly flattened, open both furnace and ashpit doors, insert the
bent end of this rod between the bars from below and pull it for-
ward, allowing the ashes, cinders, and clinkers to fall out at the
former, when the cinders can be separated from the clinkers and ashes
and returned to the furnace. If this is done morning and evening
these useful little boilers are very little trouble, and answer their pur-
pose very well indeed.

Clemiing. — Cleaning is a very important matter, much more so when
coal is the fuel employed. There are some boilers that virtually clean
themselves, such as the Upright Tubular and Slow Combustion
class, where the whole of the heating surface is exposed to the direct
action of the fire. It is, however, a very diflferent matter when you
have a series of horizontal flues or smoke-tubes in connection with a
boiler. It is of the greatest importance for the man who has to keep
a boiler clean that he knows every turn the smoke has to take, from
where it leaves the furnace till it enters the chimney. Without this
knowledge he is like a man groping in the dark in a strange place.
Cleaning should be done twice or three times a-week, as it is found
necessary, and the proper time to do it is before the fire is disturbed

i88i.] STOKING. 83

in tlie morning. The flue leading to the chimney should always be
the first to receive attention, making sure that all the soot settling
at the bottom of the chimney is cleared out, and each flue in turn
till the furnace itself is reached, the outlet of which should have the
same special attention as the top flue. Without this thorough clean-
ing there must necessarily be a great waste of heat, in consequence of
the heating surface being clogged with soot and ashes.

The Damper and Furnace- Doors. — How often do we find these
defective? We often look in vain for a damper, and at times find
the ashpit-door absent, or in a dilapidated condition, next to useless.
And yet you might just as reasonably expect a seaman to guide his
ship in its course without a rudder, as expect any one to manage a
fire on economic principles without these. The damper should be
built into the chimney as near the top of the furnace as convenient,
shouJd slide in an iron frame, and fit the flue exactly. The fur-
nace-doors should be as near air-tight as possible, and the ashpit-
door should have a ventilator to admit a little air when only a slow fire
is wanted. But to proceed. Having cleaned out the boiler-flues, and
cleared the furnace of clinkers, pull the fire together, add a moderate
supply of fuel, close the furnace - door, leave the ashpit -door open
a little, and the damper about a couple of inches out. This ar-
rangement will generally get up a fair fire in an hour, which will
answer for general purposes. But the amount of draught must
always be regulated according to circumstances. The state of the
wind and weather, and the amount of work the boiler has to do, &c.,
must always be considered. After sharp frosty nights we often have
bright mornings. The stoker finding his temperatures low, is too apt
to get up a brisk fire quickly, which is a great mistake. Sun-heat
is always preferable to fire-heat, and one at a time is quite suflficient.
When there is a prospect of sun, the fire should be attended to an
hour after, a little more fuel added, both furnace-doors closed, and the
damper left out just so far as to let the smoke pass up the chimney, and
nothing more. It will thus keep up a steady beat till the afternoon.
During cold stormy days is the time when a brisk fire is needed ; and
this is not best attained by cramming as much fuel into the furnace
as it will hold, and keeping up a roaring draught till it is consumed,
as some seem to think. First get up a nice clear fire, supply a small
quantity of fuel, which soon ignites, apply the damper to moderate
the draught, and by admitting a greater amount of air by the ashpit-
door than there is outlet for at the damper, the heated air is forced
into the upper flues of the boiler sloivly, and so parts with heat instead
of rushing up the chimney. When the fire has been kept quiet all
day, it must be stirred up at closing-time to keep up the temperature,
and be ready for evening arrangement. If it freezes, a brisk fire will
be needed — in mild weather a moderate one ; but it should in no case
be allowed to burn down too low when made up for the night. The

84 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

hotter the furnace is then the better, if much heat is required; because
whatever fuel is put on soon gets ignited, and there being no draught,
it lasts for hours without being consumed. Do not use the poker to
stir the fire when making up, but draw the fire together and beat it
down gently, and do not heap on too much fuel : shut both furnace-
doors tight, and adjust the damper so that there is just room for the
smoke to get slowly away. It is a very common custom to leave the
furnace-door open when made up for the night ; and when there is no
damper, or the ashpit-door defective, there is no other means of keep-
ing the fire in. But the cold air passing over the top of the fire is
bound to cool the boiler, and should therefore be avoided. A shovel-
ful of moist ashes thrown on the front of the fire in such cases is a
good plan to make sure of its not burning too fast. R. Inglis.

SEASONABLE NOTES OF FLORIST FLOWERS
AND BEDDING PLANTS.

Auriculas will again be on the move, and tlie first opportunity should
be taken to go over the stock and surface-dress those requiring it.
Young plants repotted in autumn we do not intend to surface-
dress, but will either give them manure-water or a little chemical
manure. To get offsets to take to the soil quickly, keep them for
a short while in a mean temperature of 55°. A compost of equal
parts loam and finely-broken-up cow-dung, to which a little coarse
sand and soot have been added, is suitable for surface-dressing.

Pentstemons, if wanted extra strong, may now be lifted out of
the cutting-frame and potted into a rich compost : 5-inch pots are
a suitable size. Place them in a structure where they are safe from
frost. By the end of April, when planted out, they wall be splendid
plants, and produce extra-fine spikes of bloom. I tried some thus
last year, and intend to grow a few the same way again. Those left
in the cutting-frame will bloom later.

Pansies may be propagated just now for producing a late crop of
fine blooms. Our Pansies are extra strong this year — larger than
they ought to be, in fact.

Do not be tempted by fine weather to put out these, or other hardy
flowers, as Pyrethrums, Pinks, Picotees, tfec, for there is nothing
gained by putting them out before the end of March : they then get
quickly established, and escape the drying winds prevalent in March.
Do not be in a hurry to start Dahlias : cuttings struck in the end
of April produce the best blooms. Gladiolus are also either planted
or potted far too early. If they are got in about the middle of April,
it is quite early enough. The soil is then sufficiently warm to induce
rapid growth. Nor is there anything lost in earliness. Our stock
last year commenced — Shakespeare and others — to flower at the middle
of July, and we had a continuance of spikes till December.

iS8i.] NOTES ON HARDY FRUITS. 85

Bedding Plants. — In this department do not get on faster than
is really necessary. It is quite general to find Geraniums potted
up before sufficient heat can be given them to root rapidly, while
cuttings of Verbenas and other tender bedders are struck, and placed
in odd corners indoors and out of doors, without progress being made
in anything — the plants meanwhile getting into a wiry condition, which
it takes many precious weeks of summer weather to get them out
of again. Prepare the plants by generous treatment to make strong
cuttings and plenty of them, but wait till the cuttings can be rooted
quickly, and turn them out as soon as possible into beds in cold
frames. In the middle of March plant out Violas, and also transplant
any hardy bedders into their positions in beds and borders. Leave
hardy herbaceous plants till the same time. Echeveria secunda glauca
should be kept as cool as possible, merely protecting from frosts.
Drac£enas in a small state keep growing, and make the most of seed-
lings of Acacia lophantha. R. P. B.

]^rOTES ON HARDY FRUITS.
While on a business tour in different parts of Scotland, especially the
Border counties north and south of the Tweed, it occurred to me to take note
of such varieties of the different species of hardy fruit as I found in good
crop, my object being to suggest to those interested in their cultivation the
proper sorts to plant, and which are most likely to repay the outlay and
trouble of their cultivation — starting with the proposition that any tree that
has supported a generous crop of fruit in 1880, taking into consideration the
ungenial season which preceded it, is most likely to produce abundantly in
ordinary seasons.

In regard to this season's produce of hardy fruits out of doors, we have
strong reason to suppose that in England and Scotland the present year has
been the most barren on record. This remark applies alike to Apples, Pears,
Plums, Apricots, and Peaches, the failure of which can only be attributed
to the influence of excessive wet and the absence of solar heat throughout
the entire year 1879, succeeded by an unprecedentedly early and intense frost,
that proved too much for young growths in their immature state, in many
cases killing them back to the old wood. As a natural consequence, such
trees produced little blossom of a perfect kind.

In enumerating the varieties of Apples which I have found in good crop, I
must first mention Lord SulSield as the most certain cropper, appreciated by
all for its cooking qualities. I found it in full crop in all parts of the
Lothians, and along the banks of the Tweed from Peebles to Berwick, and
also down through Northumberland and Durham. The finest example of a
single fruit I met with occurred in the gardens of Mr Gregson, Lowly nn, near
Belford. It measured 4| inches in diameter, stood 5 inches in height, and
weighed 1 lb., — a perfect model of its kind. Mr Gregson showed the
writer this fruit with much satisfaction — as well he might, when he placed
it in the centre of a group of others very little inferior in size and
appearance. Warner's King claims second honours in regard to size and
quality, for culinary purposes. The most remarkable specimen of this

86 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

variety I met with at Belford Hall Gardens : it measured 4^^ inclies in diameter,
and was one of upwards of lift}'- fruits gathered from a standard scarcely 5 feet
high : forty of those fruits were 9 inches in circumference. Mr Anderson, the
gardener, showed me fifty trees, Apple and Pear, all of uniform propor-
tions, the cultivation of which reflected the highest credit on his care and
judgment. All the Ajtple - trees were grafted on what is known as the
'^ Paradise stock," which is less vigorous in its habit of growth than the
"crab," sending out roots more disposed to spread near the surface of the
ground, and therefore more within the inlluence of sun-heat than if descend-
ing deep into the subsoil. The Pears were on the "Quince stock," a let^s
vigorous grower than the " Pear stock." Those trees are formed into hand-
somely trained bushes, which, Mr Anderson informed me, have been most
productive ever since they were })lanted.

Many other examples of high culture and fruitfulne&s I came across,
amongst which I must notice instances at Doxford Hall, belonging to Major
Browne. The gardens here are in excellent order, well furnished with valu-
able plants, both outdoor and indoors. The plant-houses, which are numer-
ous, are large and commodious structures, of fine appearance, and most con-
venient for plant -growth. Mr Bachelor, the head gardener, showed me into
the well-furnished fruit-room, where there was a fine display of Apples, con-
spicuous amongst which was Warner's King : from one small standard he
gathered upwards of seventy immense fruits, many of them more than 4 inches
in diameter. At the gardens of Lilburn Tower, noted for their excellency
and beauty, and also for the quality of the fruit-produce, Apple England's
Queen is the favourite as a kitchen sort : in size and other qualities it ranks
about equal with the other sorts mentioned. Mr Deas, the gardener, in-
formed me of the heaviest crop being taken from a tree 5 feet high, known
as "Stirling Castle." It produced upwards of 200 superior fruits. The
other favourites at Lilburn Tower are Kerry Pippin, a medium-sized first-rate
table Apple, which produces well both on a wall or as a standard ; Thorle Pippin,
which used to be so much esteemed as a dessert Apple in this country, owing
to its rich and distinct flavour, and as an abundant and sure bearer as a
standard, and worthy a place on a wall ; Golden Rennet, much commended
as a table Apple; Keswick Codlin, bears well, and is second to none for
kitchen use; Ribston Pippin — the examples of which on this occasion sur-
passed all I have seen, so rich were their golden russet colour, although the
crop was rather spare this season. Cockpit is a kitchen variety, much
esteemed throughout Northumberland, bearing this year a large crop of fruit.
Cellini ranks high also as a bearer in cold districts : I found a heavy crop on
a wall in Miss Ballantyne's garden at Walkerburn, near Innerleithen, where
scarce an Apple was to be seen on other sorts. Hawthornden is another good
Apple for culinary purposes, seldom failing to produce a crop. Graven-
stein is a sure bearer, and serviceable both for table and kitchen purposes.
Irish Peach, a model table fruit, unsurpassed in quality as an early and
sure cropper, ripe in August on standards. Golden Pippin is a certain
cropper of the best table fruit. Manx Codlin stands in the first rank
among kitchen Apples for autumn use, This is an immense cropper in the
north of England, as also Yorkshire Greening, which is widely known for
its long-keeping quality.

Of Pears I have a less number to enumerate. The Hazel showed the
greatest profusion on very old standards about Morpeth. It is much prized
in this district among market-gardeners, owing to the sureness of its crops :

i8St.] botany for GARDENERS. 87

tons of it are sent to J^ewcastle market by them in autumn. Moorfowl Egg
ranks next as a standard amongst this class of growers. Speaking of Peais
generally, I have seen few examples of heavy cropping this year, but the
following have invariably had moderate crops : Beurre Ranee, Beurre Diel,
Beurre Hardy, Beurre Superfin, Brown Beurre, Citron des Carmes, Easter
Beurre, Glout Morceau, Knight's Monarch, Jargonelle, Louise Bonne of Jersey,
Williams's Bon Chretien, and Beurre d'Amanlis. The finest example of the
last named I saw at Fulton Hall on a wall-tree, the dimensions of which are
18 feet by 14 feet. The wall has a southern aspect : the produce, forty dozen
large fruit, fit for use from November to January. Of Apricots, a fruit so
much esteemed, I have still less to say : a fair crop of these this year has been
the exception. The trees in general have been more prolific of dead branches
than fruit. Moorpark maintains its character as a bearer, and when it
ripens its crop is second to none in quality ; but it is sad to see so many
splendid trees dismembered of sometimes their main branches, causing large
spices of naked wall. In many instances whole sides of trees have succumbed
to the influence of frost.

Amongst other hardy fruits, I have seen none suffer to the same extent as
the Peach. It is a rare exception to meet with a tree unhurt. In scores of
cases the gardener's labours of many years have been ruthlessly withered up,
leaving only a wreck behind ; and there is only one remedy, which is to up-
root them and plant again.

Plums have not behaved so badly. I have met with a good many moderate,
and very many indifferent, crops. Victoria among Plums is what Lord Suffield
is among Apples : seldom is it seen without its complement of fruit. It takes
rank amongst the kitchen sorts, but a well-ripened fruit is quite fit for dessert.
Washington has also borne good crops in some places. It is only in well-
sheltered, sunny aspects that crops of Greengages have been gathered. Mag-
num Bonum has borne but indifferently this season, owing a good deal to the
fact that this variety is always placed in the coldest aspect in a garden. This
fine dessert Plum has in some gardens borne heavy crops, and it ought to have
a place in every garden furnished with a wall. Jefferson's, one of the very
best yellow dessert Plums, has not borne very plentifully. It is a first-class
Plum, and generally a certain cropper. A. Keek.

BOTANY FOE, GARDENERS.

NO. V. — LEAF AND FLOWER BUDS.

Leaf-buds consist of rudimentary leaves surrounding a growing vital
point, which lengthens upwards and produces leaf after leaf upon its
surface, and appear like a collection of scales arranged symmetrically
one above the other. These scales are rudimentary leaves, and the
centre over which they are placed, or the growing point, is a cellular
substance coated with a thin stratum of spiral vessels ; and these two
parts answer to the pith and medullary sheath in Exogens : a very
excellent example is found in the garden Asparagus (young shoots),
which is Endogenous. Leaf-buds which are formed among the tissue
of plants, subsequently to the development of the stem and leaves, and
without reference to the latter, are called latent^ adventitious^ or abnor-

88 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

mal. Adventitious leaf -buds may be produced from any part of the
medullary system, or wherever cellular tissue is present. Leaf-buds
universally originate in the horizontal or cellular system, and are
formed in the root, among the wood, and at the margin or on the sur-
face of leaves, whether perfect or rudimentary. Regular or normal
leaf-buds are only found in the axils of leaves, where they exist in a
developed or undeveloped state. Practically speaking, leaf-buds are
the means which nature has provided for supplying shrubs and trees
with leaves and branches in autumn. Deciduous trees lose their
leaves ; but in the axil of each a little bud previously forms, from
which fresh leaves are to expand the following spring. During winter
the bud is enveloped in numerous imperfect leaves or scales, which
are imbricated — that is, laid over one another like the tiles of a house.
This envelope is termed hyhernaculum, because it serves for the win-
ter protection of the young and tender portions of the buds. The
scales, though generally thin, are of a close membraneous texture, well
suited to exclude the cold : in many cases they are also covered with
a kind of gum. With the return of spring, when the sap becomes
heated, or rather when the sap becomes faster in its circulation, the
scales open and roll back, or in some cases fall off, to allow of the ex-
pansion of the true leaves that lie within them, curiously folded up
round a kind of stem called the axis or growing point, which, as the
leaves unfold, gradually elongates, and finally becomes a branch.

In the Beech and Lime the outer scales of the leaf -buds are brown,
thin, and dry ; in the Willow and Magnolia they are downy ; in the
Horse-chestnut and the Balsam Poplar they are covered with a gummy
exudation.

Flower-buds are produced in a similar manner to those described
above, from which they differ chiefly in containing one or more incipi-
ent flowers within the leaves — the flowers being wrapped up in their
own floral leaves, or bracts, within the ordinary leaves, which have
their outer covering of scales. The growing-point is generally devel-
oped when the leaves expand, but it is short and stunted, and unlike
the branches produced from the leaf-buds. Every flower-bud, as soon
as formed in the axil of the old leaf, contains within itself all the rudi-
ments of the future flowers. If a bud be gathered from a Lilac or
Horse-chestnut very early in spring, all the rudiments of the future
leaves and flowers will be found within it, though the bud itself may
not be more than half an inch long, and the flowers not bigger than
the points of the smallest pins. W. Robeets.

PAKAFFIN-OIL A CURE FOR MEALY-BUG.

I WAS a little surprised to find such a noted plant-grower as Mr Ham-
mond recommending in the ' Gardener ' for November the utter
destruction of plants of Hoya carnosa infested with mealy-bug ; and

i88i.] PARAFFIN-OIL A CURE FOR MEALY-BUG. 89

also, in a former paper on the Ixora, advising the use of cold water,
applied with force from syringe or water-engine, as a means of exter-
minating mealy-bug from the plants. Such practices are now quite un-
necessary since the discovery of the paraffin-oil cure. Plants infested
with mealy-bug may be simply and safely cleansed by the judicious
application of paraffin. My own experience in connection with its
use has been mainly amongst indoor plants ; and in order to divest the
plants of the enemy, the course of procedure is as follows : First of all,
secure a shallow wooden tray or tub, into which put two gallons of
water, then add two wine - glassfuls of paraffin, which thoroughly
mix with the syringe ; then the liquid is ready to be applied. The
operation is generally performed in the house where the plants grow,
as this prevents the possibility of the enemy being carried to any other
place where it would be likely to come in contact with other plants not
affected. The water and paraffin being well mixed with the smart use
of the syringe until the mixture assumes a slightly whitish appearance,
the infested plants may then be taken from their positions in turn, one
man holding the plant over the tray or tub, while another applies the
mixture with the syringe. It is necessary to syringe every alternate
syringeful sharply into the tray, to keep the water and oil well mixed,
otherwise the cure will be worse than the disease. Plants of Ixoras,
Crotons, Gardenias, Eucharis, Stephanotis, Clerodendrons, Hoyas,
and others, have been thoroughly divested of the enemy by this means.
Dipladenias are more easily damaged by the oil than the foregoing
plants which I have mentioned, and I would advise half the quantity
of paraffin for them — viz., one wine-glassful to two gallons of water.
Dipladenias are also among the worst of stove subjects to cleanse
effectively, as dozens of the enemy will lodge securely under the loose
bark on the main stems while the deadly operation is being proceeded
with. To overcome this difficulty an extra strong dose should be pre-
pared and applied with a sponge — sponging carefully every part of the
stem where they would be likely to harbour. The Poinsettia is also
another plant that ought to be treated similarly to the Dipladenia. I
have also used this light mixture for Cucumbers with perfect success,
syringing them where they stood growing in beds in a Cucumber-
house. The dripping of the oil from the plants on to the bed did not
seem in any way to injure the roots of the Cucumbers; indeed, to con-
vince any reader of this, I may mention that one large plant of Croton
angustifolius was watered at the root with one wine - glassful of oil
well mixed in 1^ gallon of water, to exterminate worms, and another
plant of Alocasia macrorhiza received a similar dose for the same pur-
pose. The experiment was performed in spring. Both plants did
remarkably well the following summer, the Allocasia throwing up pro-
digious, beautifully variegated leaves : the Croton also grew well, —
the dose in no way affecting either the growth or colouring of these
plants. Dipping the plants overhead in the liquid is a dangerous

90 THE GARDENER. [Feb.

practice, and will not be done twice by any experimenter. The plants
sliould only be allowed to remain five minutes after syringing them
with the oil and water, after which they should undergo a thorough
drenching with clean water sharply applied by the syringe. After the
operation is completed, it will be necessary to keep the top ventilators
of the house open to allow the oily vapour to escape, as the oil evap-
orating from the floor and other places where it has been spilt during
the operation can in no way be conducive to the health of the plants.

If the affected plants in any house are carefully treated in this
way three or four times during the winter season, when they are at
rest and young growing shoots few in number, little trouble will be
experienced with the enemy the following season.

There are doubtless other correspondents of wider experience in tbe
use of paraffin-oil as an insecticide, and the results of their experience
would be gladly hailed by many who are as yet unacquainted with its
use. A. Dewar.

CHICORY.

Of all winter salad plants, there are none more useful than this. Let-
tuce may " bolt " or fail to heart, and Endive decay before the winter
has well set in, but Chicory may be had daily from October to May.
A batch of plants of it should be raised annually. Seed sown in drills
1 foot apart, in moderately rich ground, in April, will soon produce
plants, which must be thinned out to 6 inches apart as soon as they are
large enough to handle ; and if the ground is kept free from weeds after
this, good carrot-like roots will have been produced by September.
Any number of them may be lifted from that time onwards ; and if they
are covered up with any kind of soil and placed in mushroom-house,
cellar, or any other dark place where the temperature is from 50° to
60°, there will soon be produced as great a quantity of beautiful crisp
blanched salad leaves as anybody could possibly desire to handle or eat.

J. MuiR.

DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The ordinary monthly meeting of this Association was held in the Imperial
Hotel, Dundee, on Friday evening the 7th ult. — the President in the chair.
There was a large attendance of the members. Mr William Stewart, Cedarlea,
read a paper entitled *' Recollections of a Tour in the United States of America
and Canada." His account of his travels was both instructive and amusing,
and was listened to with great relish by the meeting. Mr T. H. Miln,
Linlathen Gardens, read an able and highly interesting paper on "Hardy
Border Flowers." This subject, he said, might embrace annuals, biennials,
herbaceous perennials, and alpines ; but it was chiefly herbaceous perennials
and alpines he meant to speak of to-night. He then pointed out the difficulty
of deciding what was actually a hardy herbaceous plant : in common usage the

i8Si.] RAINFALL IN 1880. 91

name herbaceous embraced a great variety of plants, which, strictly speaking,
did not belong to that class. Many plants, too, were truly hardy under skilful
and liberal culture, which, under indiiferent or unnatural cultivation, were
merely annual or biennial. Many of our hardy mountaineers will not live in
our borders if we overlook their natural requirements, whereas, with some
forethought and attention, they will live and thrive for years. A plant whose
native soil is bog-peat or rocky grit, cannot be expected to thrive in a stiff
tenacious soil without some other preparation for its reception beyond making
a hole of sufficient size to hold its roots, and then covering them, even with
care. Yet this kind of cultivation, or some such closely akin to it, is by far
too common. In any ordinary good garden-soil a considerable number of even
our more rare hardy herbaceous and alpine plants will thrive fairly well, but
there are others again that require to be specially cared for, and these well
repay the extra labour expended to suit their individual requirements. Many
plants (especially alpines) which otherwise would perish, did well when
planted in a mixture of leaf-mould and small stones, such as surface-rakings,
placing a few flat stones round the collar of the plant, and covering them with
a thin sprinkling of soil. The stones thus act as a mulch, and keep the roots
moist and cool.

Mr Miln then spoke of the most approved methods of planting and arrang-
ing a herbaceous border, the distances required between the plants, and the
necessity of thinning some of the more robust-growing kinds. He thought it
best to thin out principally from the centre after the plants had attained a
height of from 15 to 18 inches, then to gather the stems together and tie
tightly at about a foot from the ground ; in many cases no stake is needed
as the stems tied thus act as so many supports, the one standing against the
other in a slanting position. As the season advances it becomes requisite,
for the sake of tidiness, to remove the haulm of some of the stronger - growmg
species. In this case it is sometimes necessary to make compensation, as the
crowns of some plants will be too much exposed by being deprived of their
natural winter protection ; and for this purpose a spadeful of soil from a brake
that has been well manured for kitchen crops answers very well, affording both
a protection and a supply of nourishment at the same time. The speaker then
made some remarks on behalf of those old-fashioned flowers, portrajing the
picturesque and interesting style of the mixed border, the favourite fashion of
a flower-garden in the days o' langsyne. Hardy border flowers display a
great variety in habit, much diversity and beauty of foliage, while they pre-
sent a wonderful variety both in form and colour. Most of them bloom
abundantly, and are excellent for cut -flowers, and by a proper selection a
continual bloom may be kept up from early spring till late in the autumn.
They are also to be recommended as meeting the wants of more people with
limited means than any other class of plants. The speakers received the
hearty thanks of the meeting ; and after the usual vote of thanks to the
chairman, the proceedings terminated.

RAINFALL IN 1880.

Inches.

At Lowther Castle, Westmoreland 32.54

At Thoresby Park, Nottinghamshire 34.02

At Drumlanrig, Dumfriesshire 33.15

THE GARDENER.

[Feb.

THE WEATHER.

The most severe frost experienced in this country since 1860-61 occurred
from the 8th January to the 17th, inclusive. The ten days gave, at
Drumlanrig, 247?,° frost, and a trifle more than 24i° of frost for each
day. On the 16th there were 31^, •'^nd on the 17th 34°, or 2° below zero.
At Tweed Vineyard there were 42°, or 10° below zero. At Meadow-
bank, near GLasgow, there were 35^° frost on each of the mornings of
the 17th and 18th. At Springwood Park, near Kelso, there were 44° of
frost ; and from all parts we hear of excessive cold. The results to
plants must be disastrous, but cannot be fully ascertained until there
is a complete thaw.

craUnftan

FORCING DEPAETMENT.

Pines. — "When a really aristocratic
dessert has to be made up, a Pine-
apple is indispensable, and the season
is at hand when it is more difficult to
have a variety of fresh fruits fit for
the table than any other ; and Pine-
apples are more useful and valued
than at any other time of the year.
There are two ways of getting ripe
Pines in April and May. The one is
to start a batch of Early Queens into
fruit in December or January, and
push them on as rapidly as weather
and other conditions will allow.
There is no other Pine that we know
of so serviceable for this work as the
good old Queen. Another way of
getting ripe Pines at the time named,
is to take good care of all the Smooth
Cayennes and Charlotte Pvothschilds
that start into fruit in the late
autumn — say in November. We
invariably have a dozen or two come
into fruit that month, and could
have more with the greatest ease,
if it were necessary. By keeping
these in a bottom-heat of from 85°
to 90°, and an air temperature of
65° when cold, and 70° when mild,
they swell fine fruit, and ripen at the
same time as Queens started early, as
referred to above. For this method
of getting spring fruit, we know of no
sorts so suitable as the two named.
All plants that have just started, or
are swelling off fruit, should have the
temperature named above steadily
maintained ; and the soil and air
should be constantly moist. Put air on
early in the day when the weather is
sunny, but always shut up early, so

as to have the glass at 80° for a time.
All autumn suckers that are well
rooted in 6- and 7-inch pots should
be shifted into their fruiting-pots
before the middle of this month.
We think pots larger than 11 inches
lead to a waste of soil, expense in
pots, and extra labour, without yield-
ing any desirable result whatever.
An 11-inch pot full of healthy roots,
well fed, we have always found
superior to any larger sizes. The
soil should be a rather light loam,
with a good deal of the finer par-
ticles separated from it, and a 6-inch
potful of bone-meal to every bushel of
soil. Use it in a dry warm state, and
I ram it firmly into the pots. One of
the cardinal points in producing good
fruiting Pine-plants, and swelling off
large fruits, is to have a j)ot full of
fine fibrous roots, to be well fed ; and
we always find this in light rather
than in heavy tenacious loam. Any
suckers potted during winter, and not
yet filling their pots with roots, should
be encouraged with a bottom-heat of
85°, and an air temperature of 65° at
night. Keep them near the glass,
and avoid crowding them. The batch
of Queens to be started into fruit next
month may have a slight increase of
temperature, and rather more mois-
ture. Smooth Cayennes, to start in
summer, must not be kept too dry
or cool, or they may start prema-
turely. Just keep the soil from being
very dry, and let the temperature be
as near 60° at night, all weathers, as
possible. The bottom- heat for these
should not exceed 80° for the present.

CALENDAR.

93

Vines. — Pot - Vines, as well as
young Vines in borders, that have
been subject to early forcing for the
first time, very often break irregu-
larly ; and it is difficult to prevent
their doing so, and at the same time
force the growth so as to have ripe
Grapes at a given date. The best
way to counteract this tendency, and
get obstinate buds to come away, is to
pinch the growths that have started
before the others just at the bunch,
and prevent its running away so en-
tirely with the sap from the others.
When the others move, these closely-
stopped shoots will soon push, and
form a leaf or two beyond the bunch.
Be very careful that pot- Vines are
never allowed to suffer from over-dry-
ness at the root. They should be care-
fully examined every day, and such
as require water should get enough
to wet the whole soil thoroughly.
When the Vines come into bloom, keep
the temperature about 60" at night,
unless the weather be cold, when a
few degrees less will do. Leave air on
all nigtit, and shut up early in the
afternoon closely for an hour or two
with a temperature of from 75° to 80°.
This obviates the necessity for hard
firing earl}'- in the night. Always
put a little air on at dusk, to remain
on all night. Remove all superfluous
bunches from the Vines as soon as it
can be seen which are the most com-
pact and best to leave for the crop.
Where proper Grape-rooms exist, ail
late Grapes will now be bottled ; and
i£ not already done, prune all Vines,
and remove only the loose bark from
the Vines. Unless there have been
insects, such as bug, thrip, or spider,
on the Vines last summer, there is no
need for any dressing beyond scrub-
bing the stems with soap and water ;
but if there has been thrip or spider,
dress with Gishurst's Compound. For
bug more radical measures are neces-
sary, as frequently described in this
magazine. This is a mouth when
many Vines are started. Begin with
low temperatures at night, keep a
thoroughly moist atmosphere, and
syringe the Vines several times daily,
until they burst into growth. As
soon as the best shoots to leave can
be discerned, rub off all the others
from every spur, and avoid crowding
the growths. A fruit-bearing shoot
on each side of the Vine for every 20

inches is close enough. Crowding of
growths, and having the foliage close
to the glass, are two of the greatest
evils in Grape-growing. If vineries
were made high enough to allow of
their being wired at 2 feet from the
glass, it would be much better than
15 and 16 inches, which is the rule.
A freer circulation of air would be
allowed over and about the foliage,
to say nothing of other desirable coa-
ditions. If a bed of warm leaves and
stable litter was put on the outside
borders of early vineries when started,
see that the heat is not allowed to
decline suddenly. Put in the neces-
sary number of Vine-eyes, and place
them in bottom-heat in a light pit or
house. In growing young Vines for
forcing early next season, there is, of
course, no better sort than Black Ham-
burg ; but it is astonishing that such
a Grape as Buckland's Sweetwater
should be chosen for the purpose, or
even Foster's Seedling (which is cer-
tainly better), when such excellent
forcing Grapes exist as White and
Grizzly Frontignacs, with their ex-
quisite flavour. Where new Vine-
borders have yet to be made for
planting this spring, let them be
completed at once, so that they get
a little time to settle before planting.
When the Vines to be planted are
ultimately intended for early forcing,
plant them by the end of this month,
and start them slowly.

Peaclies. — With a proper selection
of varieties and cautious forcing,
few fruits can be forced early with
more constant success than Peaches.
For years in succession we have gath-
ered Peaches from the same trees in
the last week of April. The varieties
were Royal George and Violet Ha-
tive — which are now superseded by
kinds that can be brought to per-
fection in less time by nearly if not
quite a month ; but the two sorts
named are not equalled in size and
quality by the earlier ones, by which
nothing is gained except the time ;
and it may be the opinion of many
that April is early enough for Peaches
and Nectarines. The sorts we would
recommend now to those who are
planting trees intended for early forc-
ing, in houses where there may be
space for two Peaches and a Necta-
rine, are Hales's Early and Violet Ha-
tive Peaches, and Lord Napier Nee-

94

THE GARDENER.

[Feb.

tarine. To ripen these for end of
April and ]\Iay it is necessary to start
early in December, and carry on the
work of forcing slowly until the criti-
cal times of setting and stoning are
past; and then the Peach and Nec-
tarine bear smart forcing, especially
when high afternoon and evening
temperature can be maintained chief-
ly with the aid of sun -heat. One of
the rocks ahead in early Peach forcing
is the allowing of the borders, when
roots are chieily under glass, to get
over-dry between the time the leaves
have dro]iped and the buds begin to
swell. Over-dryness for a length of
time then causes the buds to drop off
before they expand, and does the sys-
tem of the trees much harm. The
soil about their roots should never
be very dry. When the fruit is set
thoroughly, go over the trees and rub
off a quantity of the smallest and
most pointed looking, especially those
on the under sides of the shoots. Let
the rubbing off of a quantity of the
wood-buds be also attended to early.
The thinning of both fruits and shoots
should be begun early, and finally
completed at three or four times, ulti-
mately leaving a shoot at the base
and top of each fruit-bearing growth,
unless they are of great length, on
young trees, when of course some
must be left to properly furnish the
trees. Syringe the trees with tepid
water in the morning and at shutting-
up time. Advance the night tempera-
ture to 55° when cold, and 60° when
mild. See that the inside border is
kept moist — and the atmosphere also,
by means of frequent sprinklings.
Start a succession-house with a few
degrees more heat than recommended
for the earlier house, unless the
weather prove very wintry, as it often
does in February. But even then,
more aid is generally available from
the sun. All late trees under glass,
if not already pruned, should be at-
tended to at once.

Figs. — Now is a good time to start
a Fig - house, furnished with good
strong Brown Turkeys, for ripening
their first crop in June and July, and
their second in September and Octo-
ber. Start at 55° at night. Keep the
air moist, and the trees well syringed,
and allow a rise of 10° by day. Ad-
vance the heat for early trees in pots
a few degrees. See that they are well

supplied with tepid dung and guano
water alternately. It is scarcely pos-
sible to over-water Fig-trees in pots
that have not been shifted for a few
years. It is a good plan to let them
root through and over the top of the
pots into a mixture of turfy loam and
horse -droppings. Few fruit -bearing
I)lants are more grateful for liberal
feeding than free-bearing Figs in pots.

Melons.— The early plants may be
planted out whenever they are well
rooted in their pots, and about 8 to 9
inches high. For early crops, it is a
good plan to grow them in pots. A 12-
or 13-inch pot will ripen three or four
good fruits ; and Melons at this early
season should not have so much soil
to ramble in as in summer. See that
the loam used has no wireworm in it,
or the plants will soon go the way of
Jonah's gourd. That Melons may
make satisfactory progress at this
season the bottom and top tempera-
tures should be respectively 85° and
70°, with the usual rise by day with
sun-heat. Sow at the beginning and
end of the month for succession crops.

Cucumbers. — Plant out those sown
about Christmas. These should be
placed in a light pit, with a good
command of heat. The soil used
should be rather light than otherwise,
but rich ; and instead of filling up the
whole space allotted to the roots, be-
gin with about half of it, and add to
it as the roots extend. The same
temperature named for Melons is suf-
ficient. Sow some approved sort about
the middle of the month.

Strawberries in Pots. — A good
many forced Strawberries come into
bloom this month ; and if the weather
be very cold, the setting of the crop
is a critical point. Avoid, as one of
the chief causes of disaster, high tem-
peratures by mere force of fire. Let
the night temperature sink to 45°,
rather than have it high by singeing-
hot pipes. Give air constantly, more
or less, but beware of currents of
frosty air among the blooms. Early
crops swelling off, on the other band,
stand a good deal of heat, and, unless
in exceptionally severe weather, may
range to 60" at night. Water freely
at the roots, but avoid having plates
under the pots. Thin the fruits where
they have set thickly. Bring on suc-
cession batches slowly, as recommend-
ed last month.

CALENDAR.

95

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Whatever may be left in the way of
digging and treuching, preparatory for
crops, we need hardly say demands
attention without delay. Onion-ground
may be about the tirst to receive its
allotted manipulation. After being
thoroughly turned over, broken, and
well manured, the surface may again
receive a preparation with fork, to
make it fine and kindly. At one
period when we made special efforts
to get fine large small-necked Onions,
the ground, naturally, was like pow-
der at sowing-time : now we have it
like boulders generally (but by add-
ing turf, wood-ashes, and other fer-
tilisers, it gets friable in a greater de-
gree every year), but hope to have an
opportunity of thoroughly breaking
the surface before the third week of
the month, and then sow when weather
will allow, and cover with siftings
from under potting - bench, or other
waste stuff. It is surprising how
well Onions finish as to size and
quality on such land. A kindly
start (in our opinion) is half the
battle with most seedlings ; therefore
we would urge this extra preparation
as a speciality, to be dealt with with-
out delay. Sow as early as possible
after the 20th, and make the land
firm by rolliog and treading. Parsnips
and Leeks which are hardy may be
put in at end of month ; but rather
than imprison seeds in battered soil,
we would wait, if it was a month later.
Beans and Peas may be sown twice at
least during the month. Second early
kinds, as d^^scribed in catalogues, may
have the preference now; but we know
gome good cultivators who sow later
kinds at this season, especially the
wrinkled Peas, which are generally
high in flavour. The best Pea we had
last year was The Baron — a splendid
cropper, immense pods, and of fine
flavour. Telephone and Telegraph were
also fine, but barely equalled the for-
mer in all points. Peas coming for-
ward in frames, &c. , ought to have all
the light and air possible — only ex-
cluding heavy rains and frost : a trifle
of the latter does no harm if the plants
have' not been coddled.

Vermin, such as mice, slugs, &c. , may
be troublesome : red-lead dusted over
tops of seedlings, which are not to be
eaten (salads generally would be ren-

dered useless), and along with the seed
at sowing-time, is a good preventive.
Fir-tree oil appears to us to be a very
suitable liquid to sprinkle over crops
with a fine rose : on plants it is a most
effectual destroyer of insects. Sow
Broccoli, for an early autumn lot, to
succeed late Cauliflower. We often
have six small lots of Cauliflower, by
sowing at short intervals, and by plant-
ing some in sun and otliers in shade.
Brussels Sprouts may also be sown now
in a pot or pan for early "Buttons ;"
but we have found the March sowings
of these the best in every sense. Let-
tuce, Cabbage, Savoys, Kale, Parsley,
Spinach, and Radishes may be sown on
warm sheltered borders and ridges,
formed with their backs to the coldest
quarters, very often north and west :
near a hedge, in front of a shubbery, or
other thicket, are good positions for
ridges on which to sow early crops.
Potato-planting may be done if desir-
able, but will do equally well in March:
when ridges have been thrown up 2
feet to 24 feet wide, and the bottoms
broken over, then plant the Potatoes,
and cover them with sifted ashes and
leaf-mould (a few inches). Turfy soil is
also excellent for covering early Po-
tatoes. Garlic and Shallots may now
be planted : a long period of growth
tells well on their quality. Jerusalem
Artichokes may be planted : single
rows dividing crops is a profitable
method of growing these. Rhubarb
divided and planted now will give fine
crowns for supply of next year : plenty
of manure and abundance of room are
of much service to secure large stalks
of this most useful esculent. The
forcing of herbs, such as Mint, Tarra-
gon, &c., may be done : a pot or two,
with a little soil to keep the roots
moist, and warmth as one would de-
sire in May, are all that is necessary to
grow for early use all common herbs.
Sow pinches of Celery twice in the
month. Incomparable and its syn-
onyms, Manchester or Leicester Red,
jMajor Clarke's, are all good. Gentle
heat, plenty of light, and no checks
from drought, are requisite ; but
often, with every effort and means,
" bolting" may take place. Forcing
of Carrots, Radishes, and Potatoes
may proceed as means will allow :
plenty of light, free soil, air in

96 THE GARDENER. [Feb. i88i.

abundance, and moderate supplies of | where with a little heat, soil thrown
moisture, will insure success ; even I over the roots, and moisture given,
when ordinary hotbeds are used for j Asparagus is often forced on floors and
these, the air and light are very nee- | other positions in glass structures : a
essary. Sow French Beans every frame placed on leaves, with the roots
twelve to twenty days, as they may be laid closely therein and covered with a
wanted, in pots or pits, &e. Sow Toma- 1 little leaf-mould or any light soil, will

toes for early supplies. Those fruit-
ing may have plenty of manure- water
if they are confined at roots. Seakale
mav be forced now with much ease if
warmth (say "milk warm") can be
afforded, and air and light exclud-
ed. Rhubarb will now be start-

answer as well as any system we know
of. Mushrooms, whether grown out-
side on ridges covered with litter, or
in proper sheds for the purpose, require
nearly the same treatment all the year
through — good horse - manure, fresh
healthy spawn, and an even tempera-

ing naturally, and can be forced any- ' ture, about 50" to 55". M. T.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in the ' Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We
decline noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and
address of writer.

F. — "We know of no reason why Amaryllis Ackermanii should not do at the
back wall of your greenhouse. It is a strong grower and very brilliant in
colour. Take also the following: Brilliant, Holfordii, Johnsonii, Prince of
Orange, Magnificent, and Ptegina.

R. M. T. — Plant four of Black Hamburg, two of Alnwick Seedling, three
Gros Colmar, and three Muscat of Alexandria in one house, putting the two
last named at the warmest end of the house. In the other house, four Black
Hamburg, two Duke of Buccleueh, one White Frontignac, and one Grizzly
Frontignac — the two latter at warm end of house.

Novice. — Your Eucharis have evidently got into a bad state from insuflScient
drainage and too heavy a soil. Shake them entirely out of the old soil, wash
their roots, and repot with light turfy loam and leaf-mould in equal propor-
tions, with a fifth of the whole of clean sand. Put four or five bulbs in a pot,
and plunge in bottom-heat for a time.

^^■=^^2^-^

THE

GARDENER

MARCH 1881.

-'itT «.^;Sl«-«-6.

THE ROSE-HOUSE.

|T is questionable if any glass structure in a garden can
command such general admiration as a Rose-house, or
if there is one where so much beauty and fragrance
are to be found. Where choice flowers are in demand
through the winter and spring months, no collection,
however beautiful, appears complete without Rose-buds. Perhaps no
plant-house can give so much satisfaction or afford so much pleasure
generally, and none is so remunerative for the labour expended, as a
Rose-house. Yet in private establishments it is seldom we find a
house exclusively set apart for Roses. Houses are frequently occu-
pied with far more unworthy subjects ; and Roses in the majority of
cases are largely required where quantities of cut -flowers are in
demand. They have, however, to be produced in many gardens
under great difiiculties, causing much more labour, to say nothing of
the uncertain results that may follow, than would be occasioned by
devoting a house entirely to their cultivation. Where large supplies
of Roses are required — ^either Teas or Hybrid Perpetuals, or both — say
from Christmas onwards, the Rose-house is indispensable to meet the
demand with any degree of certainty.

The kind of house best adapted for Roses is undoubtedly a span-
roofed structure running north and south. The size entirely depends
upon circumstances ; but in a house 30 to 40 feet long, 20 feet wide,
and 15 feet high, an abundance of Roses can be produced. A walk 3
feet wide should go all round, side stages 3 feet wide on either side
and ends, and a bed in the middle 8 feet wide. The height the bed
should be raised above the walks entirely depends upon different

G

98 THE GARDENER. [March

tastes. It should not be lower than the side stages, or else the Roses
at the bottom will not obtain suflicient light, when the side stages are
filled with plants in pots, to be very satisfactory : 2 feet 6 inches is a
height which leaves ample room for drainage and border above the
level of the walks. Preparation should be made for a border under the
side stages in which Roses can be planted to train up the roof under
each rafter. It is not advisable to allow those planted to cover the
entire roof, or else light will be too much excluded. It is essential
that the borders should have a drain to carry away the water that
would otherwise stagnate about the roots, and in time prove fatal to
the wellbeing of the Roses. A quantity of broken bricks should
be placed in bottom for drainage about 1 foot in depth : this will
leave a space of 18 inches for soil, which is ample. The side borders
can be made more shallow if the growth is kept in due bounds, as
suggested. A turf grassy side downward should be placed over the
drainage before the compost is put in. The compost most suitable is
rich fibry loam, of rather a tenacious nature : a quantity of fine bones,
charcoal, or wood-ashes is also beneficial, and coarse river-sand. It may
be as well to say here that vegetable matter incorporated with the soil
for the border is not advisable : it decomposes too quickly, and has a
tendency to sour the border. When necessary, feeding is best done
by the application of manure-water and rich top-dressings. An arched
trellis should be provided for the centre bed, to train the Roses to, as
they show themselves off to greater advantage thus than any other way
I am acquainted with.

It is necessary to consider the preparation of the plants for planting.
They can be readily raised at home, as the majority of Teas do well on
the Manetti, upon which stock they can be grafted with ease. Stocks
can be purchased cheaply, and potted in small pots ; and when root-action
is well commenced, and the wood intended for the scion is half-ripened,
the operation can be performed with success. They can also be pro-
pagated by cuttings from half-ripened wood, which undoubtedly is the
best. They are preferable on their own roots : if on the Manetti, they
should be potted or planted below where worked, so as to get them
upon their own roots. Plants ready worked and growing freely can
during April be purchased from any well-known nurserymen where
Roses are largely grown. When obtained while growing, they frequent-
ly are considerably checked in transit, and stand still for a long time.
Therefore, if possible, home-prepared plants are preferable. If rooted
in early spring from half-ripened wood, it is surprising, when afterwards
planted out, what progress is made in a season.

We will consider the plants in 5-inch pots, which should be the first
shift after the scions are united to the stocks, or after the small pots
are full of roots in which they would be potted after being rooted. If
a slight bottom-heat can be given for a time, growth will be rapid, and
flower-buds as they appear must be removed. When the young plants

i88i.] THE ROSE -HOUSE. 99

become thoroughly established in their pots, they are in a good condi-
tion for turning out for planting, provided the borders in the house
are ready, and the soil is well warmed. If the borders are not
ready for i)lanting, the plants should not be allowed to stay in the
5-inch pots to become checked, but should be transferred into a larger
size. Bottom-heat is still serviceable, but the plants before planting-
time should be removed from the bottom-heat. Those intended for
the roof should be kept in pots until they have attained a sufficient
size to reach from the border well through the stage : abundance of air
should be given to the plants when favourable, to obtain a sturdy, com-
pact growth. Airing, watering, syringing, temperature, &c., should be
conducted as recommended in previous numbers of the 'Gardener' on
Roses. Those intended to be planted out should be attended to with
as little delay as possible, as under the planting-out system they attain
greater strength and vigour, and cover much more of the trellis than
if kept in pots through a good portion of the season. As the external
air becomes warmer, artificial aid can be dispensed with. While
growing rapidly, the house can be closed early in the afternoon, so as
to allow the temperature to rise considerably by sun-heat.

When autumn approaches, the wood must be thoroughly hardened
and ripened, and the plants brought to a complete standstill by keeping
the house much drier and cooler. Ripened wood and a good season
of rest are essential to the successful cultivation of Tea Roses when
planted out under glass. The latter to a large extent has to be forced
upon them, as they are rather perpetual in their nature, and continue
to bloom and grow in autumn if means are not taken to prevent
them. I have seen failure result from this constant-growing system.
They continue to flourish tolerably well for a time, until their vital
energy is exhausted. They then force rest upon cultivators, and
when wanted to grow, decline, and if pushed against their will, soon
dwindle and die. This will not be the case if a natural system of
cultivation is pursued. The forcing of rest upon them need not be
severe, but sufiicient to bring them to a standstill, and nothing accom-
plishes this better than a low temperature. This is quite easy for a
season or two after planting ; but when rest is required much earlier
in the season, to be ready for starting to produce Roses in winter, the
resting period is not so easily accomplished by a low temperature. An
early growth, dryness both in the atmosphere and at the roots, with
abundance of air, are the only means that can be employed.

The young plants subject to winter maturation, after rest should be
slightly pruned by removing weak and unripened shoots, and should
be again slowly started into growth. It will be wise if all flowers are
sacrificed the first season, and the strength of the plants devoted to the
production of wood. The second season the growth should be rapid
and strong, and should be ripened as early as possible, so as to again
start them earlier into growth, in order that the plants may be trained

100 THE GARDENER. [March

to make their growth earlier each year, until they can be rested, and be
ready for starting towards the middle or end of October. Two rows
of 4-inch pipes all round the house will be ample for maintaining the
desired temperature. The side stages may be occupied with Teas or
Hybrid Perpetuals in pots, which can be introduced in successional
batches from Peach-houses or vineries, or any place where they have
been started. These side stages are also valuable for growing a num-
ber of young Teas in 5- and 6-inch pots — "projjagated every season" —
for a few autumn flowers; or plants of Gloire de Dijon, Marechal Niel,
Reve d'Or, and others of a similar growth, thinly trained under the roof
— after the Hybrids are over, and Roses in abundance can be obtained
from oatside — to be eventually, when ripe, trained round four or five
stakes, or any other form. A strong shoot should be selected, and one
only grown, and allowed to extend without stopping. The two first
varieties will often make shoots 20 feet long in a season. For some
time I propagated in the spring for this purpose, but found they did
not ripen sufficiently to produce real early flowers. The month
of June is now preferred, and the young plants are nice stuff in 5-inch
pots (on their own roots) before winter, which, if kept cool in a late
Peach-house for a time, and then started, will ripen their wood early,
and produce as many as twenty-six flowers from the shoot by the end
of January, every bud along the shoot producing a flower. When
sufficiently ripe towards autumn, they are placed outside for a time
to further harden them. They should be made secure in some sunny
position where the wind will not break them.

Such varieties as Gloire de Dijon, Lamarque, Reve d'Or, Belle
Lyonnaise, Cheshunt Hybrid, Marechal Niel, Celine Forestier, are most
suitable for training up the roof. The first mentioned is the best for
early forcing. For early forcing to bloom during winter, the following
free-growing, profuse-flowering varieties will be found invaluable : Saf-
rano, Isabella Sprunt, Niphetos, Due de Magenta, and Rubens (a fine
old Rose). The following bloom well in the same house a little later :
Alba rosea, Adrienne Christophle, Goubault — very free in spring — Mad.
Falcot, Devoniensis, Homere, Jules Margottin, Louise de Savoie, Mar-
celin Roda, Marie Van Houtte, and Catherine Mermet. Many vari-
eties of Teas, when subject to early work, soon die out; others are
shy ; while others refuse to grow until the season is far advanced, — for
instance, Aline Sisley, Anna Ollivier, Bougere, Perle des Jardins, Perle
de Lyon, and many others, do not appear to do well if subjected to
much unnatural forcing : they should be grown in pots, and allowed
to come on more naturally. The first mentioned for the Rose-house
bed are unsurpassed, where delicate and fragrant buds are esteemed.

Wm. Bakdney.

i88i.] BORDERS OF MIXED HARDY FLOWERS. 101

THE FURNISHING OF BORDERS OF MIXED
HARDY FLOWERS.

Though the 'Gardener' bas kept to the front in giving practical in-
formation on hardy flowers, and the different ways they may be em-
ployed with the best effect, yet there are always readers who desire
information just at one particular time, and to whom previous papers
on this subject have been of no use from their having no interest in
them at the time they appeared. Therefore I find my apology for
the following remarks in the fact, that those who are commencing the
culture of these want information just at present above all other
times. You will doubtless have heard the threadbare tale, how that
borders of mixed hardy flowers are always interesting ; how, day by
day, from the time the Christmas Roses and Snowdrops brave the
horrors of snow and hail and rain, with much darkness and little sun-
shine, till the Michaelmas Daisies close the floral year amid as much
darkness and less sunshine, there are floral treasures unfolding their
beauties without intermission. Before you plant a Daisy, do not be-
lieve in it. Your master and your mistress and yourself may be a
little inclined to be sentimental until the novelty has worn off, and
you may all have a slight return of the feeling every spring; but do not
trust in it to last, and above all, do not trust it so much as to allow
the flush of summer flowers to pass without having a reserve to come
on throughout the autumn. If you do, instead of the " Oh, how
sweet!" "Oh, charming!" "What a pretty dear!" of the spring-
time,— you may expect, " Don't you think, Macbriar, that it would be
worth while to stick something in these bare places 1 " and, " Mightn't
we have a few flowers to brighten the borders up a bit ? " If you
commenced with sentiment, you have at that particular day and hour
come down to fact, and have to acknowledge the requirements pointed
out. But, alas for the means of filling the "bare places," and the
power to brighten up ! And you may be infected with that unfortu-
nate feeling which unconsciously draws a line between "border" flowers
and flowers which have been utilised as "bedders." Do not let that
feeling cause you to exclude flowers which would be of the greatest
service in making your borders effective. Because you have " bedded
out" Salvias, and Gladioli, and Sedum spectabile, do not let that be
a reason for excluding them from a place in the mixed borders. What
we want in these is as big a display of flowers as can be had, and for
as long a period as possible : how foolish it would therefore be to
discard some of the best for our purpose, for no better reason than the
above! Utilitarianism has got fast grip of gardeners. Weeding out
of fruits which do not pay, and growing only a limited number of
stove and greenhouse plants which yield the best and surest returns, is
now the order of the day, and the principle must be recognised in the
planting of these borders. I would therefore advise that such beauti-

102 THE GARDENER. [March

ful flowers as Salvias (patens and splendens), the various sections of
Dahlias, early flowering Chrysanthemums, Gladioli in variety, Lobe-
lias of the cardinalis type, or any other flowers which, though not
strictly hardy, are nevertheless of great value during the season they
remain out, should have a place in these borders from the very first.
Then we have what are known as florist's flowers to add greatly to the
beauty of these borders. These are Hollyhocks, Pinks, Picotees,
Carnations, Phloxes, Pentstemons, Pansies, Pyrethrums, Potentillas,
Antirrhinums, Mimuluses, S weet-Williams, Delphiniums, Ranunculuses,
Anemones, Moss and other Roses, Pa3onias, and German, English, and
Spanish Irises. Then there are genera of plants, every individual
member of which can be employed largely with the best results. 1
name the following : Campanulas in great variety, Alstroemerias,
Lilies, Spiraeas, several Geraniums, Michaelmas Daisies, Saxifragas,
Globe-flowers, Primulas, Delphiniums, Pentstemons, Crocuses, Nar-
cissi, common Pinks, Oenotheras, Lychnises, Hepaticas, dwarf Phloxes,
Irises, Funkias, Day Lilies, Veronicas, Erigerons, Scillas, Achilleas,
Aconitums, Aquilegias, Cyclamens, Wallflowers, Fritillarias, Sun-
flowers, evergreen Candytufts, St John's Worts, Lupines, Lythrums,
Forget-me-nots, Poppies, Statices, Verbascums, some Sedums, Fox-
gloves, and Tradescantias. I also note some species which cannot be
dispensed with. These are — Dielytra spectabilis, Sida malvaeflora,
Arabis albida, Aubrietia purpurea and A. grseca, Double Rockets,
Thalictrum minus, Heucheras, Doronicum caucasicum, Hieracium
auranticum, Tritomas, Polygonum Brunonis, Pyrethrum uliginosum,
Polemonium cseruleum, Rudbeckia Newmanii, Phygelius capensis,
Corydalis solida. Double Chamomile, Monarda didyma, Linum per-
enne, Libertia grandiflora. Everlasting Peas, Harpalium rigidum,
Geum coccineum fl. pL, Gentiana acaulis, Erinus alpinus, Eranthis
hyemalis, Sisyrinchium grandiflorum, Epimediums, Dodecatheon ele-
gans, Dracocephalum speciosum, Colchicum autumnale fl. pi., Cheiran-
thus alpinus, Stenactis speciosa, Asclepia tuberosa, Anthericum lili-
astrum, Japanese Anemones, — all sorts which should be largely
planted. If the greater space of the borders be filled with these, there
will be no harm in giving others, which may turn out mere botanical
curiosities, a place here and there amongst them ; but these of them-
selves will make a border of great beauty throughout the seasons of
growth.

As regards managing the plants in a mixed border, a good deal must
be left to individual taste, and without doubt we will see some startling
arrangements as the capabilities of the several plants become better
known — ribboning, parterres, &c. But I would simply recommend
a mixed arrangement as always being in good taste, and always effec-
tive. We have two long borders, each 450 feet by 13 feet, to plant
this spring, and the arrangement will be Hollyhocks, Dahlias, and
some of the tallest perennials in the backmost, 4 feet ; then will come

i88i.] BORDERS OF MIXED HARDY FLOWERS. 103

Phloxes, tall Campanulas, Salvias, and other perennials, about 2^ to 3|
feet in height; Gladioli will come immediately in front of these.
Then a row of Roses will divide the back section from the front,
which will have nothing taller than Pyrethrums, Antirrhinums, Sweet-
Williams, down to the dwarfest plants at front. Then, as a spring
display is of importance, many dwarf spring-flowering subjects will
be mixed with the taller plants well back in the border. Before
commencing to plant, a catalogue should be consulted, and the
heights of the several plants carefully noted. The necessity for
this is apparent, if we take the Campanulas, which contain species
from 4 inches to as many feet in height. If the border has been well
prepared, the plants make great progress the first year ; but some of
them — as, for instance. Pinks and Carnations, and bulbous plants —
should be planted not singly, but in clumps.

I commenced by saying that the ' Gardener ' took a foremost place
in pushing the claims of hardy flowers. I have now to state that
these claims have always been honestly put before its readers. When
it has been said, " Do away with some of your ' bedding,' " you have
at the same time been cautioned that to keep these borders in toler-
able order you would not save in labour. Hardy flowers have been
recommended on their own intrinsic merits without running down
others, or holding out the hope that if "bedding" be curtailed, and
hardy flowers put in their places, then so much labour would be
available for other departments. It is only on the understanding
that such a border as I have just given hints towards furnishing is
recommended because it is a feature of great beauty and interest and
use when well managed, though at the same time calling for a great
amount of labour, without which its interest will sink very low indeed.
Well, then, you may make up your mind for a certain amount of trans-
planting every year ; a certain amount of preparation of the ground
for such plants as Dahlias and Gladioli ; a certain amount of propaga-
tion every season — such flowers as Pentstemons, Pinks, Carnations,
and some others, requiring to be propagated often. Then you will find
the necessity of periodically lifting the whole of the plants, dunging
and trenching the borders, and subsequent rearranging of the plants.
Then you have the ordinary routine work always on hand — hoeing,
clearing off decayed flower-stems, staking and tying the plants to the
stakes : this alone is no light matter. You will understand that if we
plant 200 or 300 Dahlias, 300 Gladioli, 500. Carnations and Picotees,
besides a Phlox every third yard, Pyrethrums the same distance, and
other tall fellows about 4 to 6 yards apart, the staking alone means
something. Of course, some readers may be in a locality where the
wind does not disport itself unseemly, — where zephyr alone ever
breathes on the flowers. If so, just excuse these remarks, for the
wind occasionally behaves very rudely here. But there are two ways
of staking a plant. If you have a Gladiolus, for instance, which

104 THE GARDENER. [March

will reach 4 feet in height when the flower-spike is fully opened,
there is no necessity to employ a stake to the out-top of the spike : if
the stake is 2 feet out of the ground, it is quite long enough ; and this
applies to most flowers requiring stakes.

Do not be in too great a hurry to get the plants into their places.
If the weather is drying, wait till it gets showery : much faster pro-
gress will be made. R. R Brotheeston.

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF WALL - BORDERS IN
KIT CHEN-GARDENS.

NO. III.

Although calendars of garden operations are included in most horti-
cultural periodicals, and some of them, doubtless, are instructive, it
is questionable if they do not at times mislead many that are inex-
perienced. This is especially the case with that part relating to the
kitchen-garden, written for annual, and even monthly, works ; seeing
it is compiled, as a matter of course, without any knowledge of the
weather to be experienced. When following instructions thus given,
the learner should use some judgment in the matter, and not, as I
have before remarked, sow or plant at a certain date, under the impres-
sion it is absolutely necessary, or failure will be inevitable, simply
because advised so to do by the " oracle " consulted. This season, espe-
cially, much discernment must be used, owing to the cold and wet
state of the soil, which at the present time (Feb. 7th) is again being
saturated with snow-water. In our case, even if dry weather be shortly
experienced, it would be altogether a mistake to commence sowing or
planting till March ; and for our patience we anticipate much better,
and quite as early crops, as any that might have been puddled in at
any time previous.

Crops in the open are almost certain to be late, and for this reason
pits and frames, with or without heat, glazed or unglazed, should be
extensively used and utilised for forwarding many vegetables and also
plants for the borders, by these means securing a supply of good vege-
tables, and also giving the outside crops more time to mature. Broccoli
has been completely destroyed in many gardens by the late severe
frosts, and I am afraid many Potatoes have been injured ; therefore
Cauliflowers and early Potatoes will have to be forwarded as much
as possible. Autumn-sown Peas have also succumbed, which goes far
to prove my argument that autumn sowing is a waste of seed and
labour, and ought to be discarded for the better plan of sowing in
boxes and transplanting, as advised in the January number of this
periodical.

Potatoes. — These are often planted before the ground is fit for their
reception. More depends upon the proper preparation of the seed-

i88i.] WALL-BORDERS IN KITCHEN -GARDENS. 105

tubers, especially with the kidney varieties, than early planting ; home-
grown seed being preferable, as that bought is seldom so well kept.
If the central shoot be uninjured in any way, and all side shoots either
rubbed off or picked out with a knife, an evener growth and an
earlier and heavier crop will be secured than would otherwise be the
case. Some carefully preserve these shoots till planting-time, only to
be damaged by careless planting; and for this reason I advocate draw-
ing drills, and moulding over lightly with the hand, prior to a general
levelling of the soil. Both the south and west borders are suitable for
these early crops, and the soil should be as light and open as possible
— heavy soils repaying for a good dressing of leaf or other light soils.
I still recommend a liberal dressing of half-decayed manure, burying
it in slightly below the tubers. Coarse tubers may result, which are
objected to by many, and rightly so, perhaps ; but unless a few are
obtained, the crop, as a rule, will be a light one. Manure freely used
for Potatoes, will also be found sufficient for most of the successional
crops. On light soils the rows may be placed 2 feet apart, and the tubers
9 inches asunder in the rows ; on heavier soils the rows should be
30 inches apart, and the tubers from 10 to 12 inches asunder, planting
deeply in the former instance, and shallowly in the latter. Moulding
up is necessary where shallow planting is resorted to, and it should be
practised where deeply planted, if the locality is liable to late frosts.

Good varieties to succeed either Veitch's Ashleaf or Mona's Pride
are Early Hammersmith and Rivers's Royal Ashleaf, both of which
crop heavily and are usually of good quality. Extra-early Vermont,
which much resembles Early Rose, but is superior to that variety, is
recommended for light soils, as it crops heavily, is early, and good in
quality. Of round varieties, I prefer Fox's Seedling ; and Alpha is
also early and good. Early Oxford is of excellent quality, but the
crops with me have been light. Early Coldstream makes too much
haulm to please me, but is very good in other respects. Porter's
Excelsior is an extraordinary cropper, but the quality, unfortunately,
is generally inferior.

Carrots and Radishes. — A sowing of either Early Scarlet Horn or
Nantes Horn, should be made on a south or west border, the first
favourable opportunity, to succeed those grown in frames, or those of
the latter sown at the foot of a wall. A light sandy soil is suitable ;
and the shallow drills for Carrots may be drawn 10 inches apart,
working in a row of Radishes between each. Sow rather thinly, and
thin out early.

Turnips. — The earliest and most profitable crop of these will be
obtained from an east border, the soil of which should be rich and
firm. On the first favourable opportunity in March seed should be
sown of the Early Munich, and more of the same variety, and also of
a good selection of Snowball towards the end of March or early in
April. It is a great mistake to crowd Turnips ; and to induce early

106 THE GARDENER. [March

bulbing, the rows should at least be 15 inches apart, and the seedlings
at the second thinning be left about 9 inches apart. An occasional
dusting with soot and lime is necessary to preserve the young foliage
from fleas.

Lettuces. — A salad of some description is at all times essential in
most establishments, and if not forthcoming when required, it may
prove vexatious to all concerned. Although good salads can be made
without Lettuces, much better can be made with them ; a well-grown
Cos Lettuce, in my opinion, forming the very best of salads, and one
which few would decline. Cabbage Lettuces are very good, but not
to be compared with the Cos, especially if they have to be sent a dis-
tance, and, in addition, are supposed to keep good at least for three
days. Cabbage Lettuces should be used quickly ; even then they are
invariably much too flabby in salads, and are only grown by me on
account of their earliness, and their adaptability for late sowing also.
The little Commodore Nutt is a very hardy, though not very early,
variety ; and a number of autumn-raised plants planted on a south
border prove very serviceable should the Cos varieties be lost. If by
any chance the stock of autumn-sown plants of either kind be small,
seed should at once be sown of the Early Paris Market Cabbage Let-
tuce, and with this a good variety of the Paris White Cos. The seed
may be sown thinly in pans or boxes, using fine light soil, and placing
on a gentle hotbed till germinated, when they should at once be
transferred to a shelf near the glass, but still in a growing temperature.
When in rough leaf the seedlings may be pricked out in shallow
boxes, placing these in a frame on a gentle hotbed ; or if many plants
are required, a layer of about 4 inches of fine soil may be spread in a
frame over a slight hotbed, pricking the seedlings into this about 3
inches apart each way. Use tepid water for watering ; and keep the
frame rather close till the plants are established, when air should
be given freely, hardening them off so as to be ready for their final
quarters from the middle to the end of April, according to the locality.
The Cabbage variety will be first fit for use, and by growing a good
quantity the Cos variety need not be cut till it is near perfection. In
mild localities, if a good breadth of spring-sown Cos Lettuces are
planted, the seed of those to succeed maybe sown on a south or
south-west border, either where they are to mature, or for transplant-
ing. In cold districts it is advisable to sow more seed early in March
on a gentle hotbed, with or without glass covering, pricking the seed-
lings either into boxes or a sheltered spot, and finally transplanting
to a warm border.

Lettuces delight in a deeply dug, heavily manured soil, which should
be made rather firm. The small varieties may be put in rows 9 inches
apart and 6 inches asunder in the rows, and the rows of the Cos
varieties 1 foot apart and 9 or 10 inches asunder in the rows. Tying
up hastens blanching, and is usually resorted to with the Hick's Hardy

i88i.] GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 107

White Cos and the Black-seeded Brown Cos, but is quite unnecessary
in the case of the Paris White Cos varieties. The Black-seeded Brown
Cos is not so liable to run to seed as the latter. For this reason, a few
plants of it may with advantage be grown with every batch of White
Cos, and at times may prove invaluable for the prevention of a break
in the supply.

Sowing Broccoli and other seeds. — The wall-borders are very commonly
utilised for raising the principal portion of Broccoli, Cauliflowers, Brus-
sels Sprouts and other greens, and this I consider a mistake, simply
because the space is much too limited, the consequence being beds of
weakly plants— the reverse of what should be aimed at. By all means
sow seed of a few early Cauliflowers, Brussels Sprouts, and even Broc-
coli, on these borders ; but give the plants room. Sow the seeds of
main and late crops thinly in the open, and thereby secure sturdy
plants that will move readily at any time. W. Iggulden.

GREEK'HOUSE PLANTS.

NO. II. — CORREAS.

These plants are evergreen dwarf shrubs, of compact habit of growth,
natives of Australia j and when properly treated, produce from the
axils of the leaves, on the current year's shoots, their bright-coloured
wax-like flowers very freely during the autumn, winter, and spring
months.

Correas do not receive from gardeners generally the amount of atten-
tion that their decorative qualities entitle them to. About twenty-five
or thirty years ago two or three varieties of Correa were to be seen in
almost every greenhouse, but for several years past, for some reason or
other, most gardeners have ceased to cultivate them. Possibly the pres-
ent neglect of these and some other genera of beautiful-flowering green-
house plants that were carefully looked after at the time mentioned, is
owing in some measure to the great improvement that has been effected
in the flowers of Zonal Pelargoniums. The latter plants are easily
cultivated, and produce their large trusses of bright-coloured, well-
formed flowers in more or less abundance all the year through, and
consequently several other kinds of beautiful-flowering greenhouse
plants, requiring a little more careful attention to maintain them in
a healthy flowering condition than that usually bestowed upon Pelar-
goniums, have been in many instances crushed out of the greenhouse
by the gay and easily cultivated Zonals. One difficulty, however, in
the culture of Correas is in the matter of propagation, but this only
applies to places where proper facilities for carrying out the process do
not exist.

Correas, with the exception of C. alba, are somewhat difiicult to
propagate by cuttings, — at least, this has been my experience with most

108 THE GARDENER. [March

of them. Cuttings of half-ripened shoots of C. alba, taken oflf in
spring, and inserted in a mixture of equal parts of silver-sand and
leaf-mould, firmly pressed in well-drained small pots or shallow pans,
supplied with a bottom-heat of 70°, and covered with bell-glasses, will,
if duly looked after in the way of shading from sunshine and supply-
ing them with water, emit roots in from four to six weeks, and be
ready for potting off into small pots in eight weeks from the time of
being put in as cuttings, C. alba is the strongest grower of any of
the species in cultivation, and being easier to propagate by cuttings
than the others, it is employed as a stock on which to graft the weaker-
growing kinds. In twelve months from the time the cuttings were
put in, they will be strong enough, if rightly treated during that time,
to receive the grafts of the sorts that it is desirable to increase. The
methods of grafting and subsequent treatment up to this time, when
the union of stock and scion is complete, are the same as those recom-
mended in the case of Azaleas in last month's issue of the ' Gardener.'

Established plants should be repotted about the beginning of April,
and when doing so, drain the pots efficiently and carefully, making the
fresh compost moderately firm about the roots of the plants. Any
cutting back or pruning of the shoots that may be thought necessary
to keep the plants in shape, should be done at the same time. After
being repotted, place the plants in a position where they can have a
slight shade from sunshine, and where a temperature of from 60° to
70°, with plenty of atmospheric moisture, can be kept up. Let the
plants remain in this position till the end of May, and then remove
them to a cold pit or frame, plunging the pots in a bed of ashes, as
near to the glass as the size of the plants will permit. A slight shading
should be applied to the glass, and the pit or frame should be kept
rather close for a week or so after the plants are placed therein. Here
the plants may remain till the first week of September, when they will
be commencing to flower, and should be taken into the greenhouse
and have a position where they will receive as much light as possible.
Correas require to be carefully attended to with water at all seasons.
They are easily injured by over-watering, and stagnant water about
their roots kills them in a very short time. While the plants are in the
cold frame or pit, they will be benefited by an occasional application
of liquid manure ; the dose, however, must not be strong. As a rule,
the roots of hard-wooded plants are much easier injured by an over-
strong application of liquid manure than those of soft-wooded and
quicker-growing plants.

Correas must also have due attention in keeping them free from
insects. Brown scale will attack them, and must not be allowed
to make headway on the plants. If permitted to do so, it is difficult
to get the plants clear of the pest again. Correas when in flower may
be employed as table-plants in the dwelling-house ; and for this pur-
pose, plants of the right size of C. brilliant and C. Harrisii are very

i88i.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 109

appropriate. C. cardinalis and C. ventricosa are also beautiful kinds
for the decoration of the greenhouse or conservatory. They are, how-
ever, of a more slender habit of growth than the two former species,
and require to be closely cut back at pruning time for the purpose of
imparting to the plants a more compact and bushy shape than they
naturally assume when not treated so. In conclusion, I would recom^
mend those who have not yet cultivated Correas to get half-a-dozen
each of the above four species from their nurseryman, and carefully
attend to them during the coming summer, and I have no fear but the
result next winter will be satisfactory to the cultivator.

J. Hammond.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

Another "burster" from John Wills, F.RH.S., (fee. We can never
read those periodical " demonstrations " of Mr Wills without thinking
of his bread-and-butter Vine-borders, which he made when at Huntroyde
Park, concerning which he manifested the same characteristic energy.
Mr Wills's Vine borders were to eclipse all Vine-borders that had ever
been made before ; they were to last " not for five but for fifty years "
at the least. They were five feet deep, and they were made on the
"roly-poly" principle, and unheard-of results were expected from
them ; but the inventor's own account was the first and last anybody
has ever heard of them. So far as we know, we regard Mr Wills's
enthusiastic and somewhat obtrusive horticultural patriotism in some-
what the same light that we did his Vine-border exploit. In a late
rambling communication to one of the papers, Mr Wills indulges, by
turns, in humble and vainglorious rodomontade. His great concern,
as usual, is the " future of horticulture " — a7id — the " General Horti-
cultural Company," we suspect. Mr Wills hopes and believes he will
live to see the day when " a flower-show will be held in every village ; "
and this consummation, we suppose, is likely to happen when horti-
culturists of all shades and degrees enrol themselves under the banner
of the aforesaid " Company," of which Mr Wills is the great luminary.
If Mr John Wills could by any means be projected into space, he
would become a star of the first magnitude — shining by his own light.
The following paragraph from the article in question looks very like
fishing for compliments : —

"Revertiug again to the future of gardening, I think many will give me
credit for the part I have taken in trying to help the advancement of an
art which is part and parcel of my nature. My writings, I think, will also
show that I have devoted a considerable amount of care and time to its
advancement, and that I have tried to do so at no trifling cost ; and I
solemnly affirm that in the change recently made in the style of my under-
taking, I have been actuated solely by the wish to benefit my fellow-men,
and not in any way to injure others. The impression indissolubly impressed

no THE GARDENER. [March

upon my mind is, that any one who can bonefit horticulture by increasing its
sphere of influence and prosi)erit3' must be the means of increasing the trade
and considerably enhancing the pecuniary position of those who are engaged
in it."

Good, this : cool, too. That Mr Wills, either by his writings or his
actions, has promoted the advancement of horticulture more than, or
even as much as, his neighbours, except, perhaps, in catering for the
balls and routs of the " upper ten," and generally promoting his own
interests, nobody, we think, is aware, and that is probably the
reason why he every now and then reminds us of his doings, and
his devotion to the cause of horticulture. The idea of a change from
a private enterprise to a " John Wills (Limited)," all for the glory and
future of horticulture, is too good by half. " I solemnly affirm/' says
our philanthropic friend, " that in the change recently made in the style
of my undertaking, I have been actuated solely by the wish to benefit
my fellow-men." Very likely ! Are all the members of the " co-op."
actuated by the same amiable resolves, we wonder 1 Because, if
they are, we rather think the firm is wrongly named. It ought to be
the " General Horticultural Benevolent Company Z/Tilimited ; John
Wills, Almoner." In short, it won't do, Mr Wills ; thank you for your
" priced catalogue," but " none of your blarney."

A correspondent has been writing to the genial and well-known
" S. R. H." of Cauton Manor to suggest devout " thoughts " — sending
coals to Newcastle. This correspondent has been gathering Violets,
Primroses, Cowslips, and Aconites, &c., about Christmas season, in the
pleasant land of Kent, and while these suggest hopeful anticipations
to himself, they occasion him sad misgivings concerning his neighbours.
*' How few," he exclaims, " appreciate the beauty or the blessings which
surround us ! We speak of this poor dark world, and of this winter
season as a dead, cheerless time (what a slander on the festive season !).
Many seem to think there is nothing to see in a garden except in
midsummer, and some cannot see it then. Nevertheless, though such
blindness seems incurable, and we see no signs of a millennium, I feel
sure that the spread of horticulture among all classes is doing some-
thing to cheer many a life." We devoutly hope horticulture is " doing
something" in the direction indicated; but a more gloomy and ascetic
view of the position of affairs we have never, we think, read ; and we
are perfectly sure the author of the ' Six of Spades ' doesn't believe in
it. We protest against the accusation of " incurable blindness," or
of having obstructed the " millennium " in any way, because we cannot
see Violets, Primroses, "yellow and pink, and double and single —
Gentians, and Polyanthus, that are yet underneath the ground, and
likely to remain there for a matter of six weeks to come, maybe. If
we had them we would send some to S. R. H., but not as text for a
sermon about our neighbours' failings. We are fain to confess, indeed,

i88i.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. Ill

that the winter, so far, has not yet suggested any thoughts of spring,
"everlasting" or otherwise ; and our reflections have been akin to those
of the pathetic Tannahill : —

"The trees are a' bare, and the birds mute and dowie —
They shake the cauld drift frae their wings as they flee,
And chirp out their plaints, seeming wae for my Johnnie ;
'Tis winter wi' them, and 'tis winter wi' me."

We cannot, in short, quite enter into this correspondent's ecstasies
— " we ain't in it." In our own pleasure-garden we have long since
ceased contemplating the icicles on the trees, and have turned our atten-
tions to "the footprints in the snow; '' we traced them one by one, and
our trapper's "thoughts" were principally running on the question of
how " the darned beggars get on," for they are starving ; but thieving
hares and rabbits, my friend ! In the kitchen-garden the prospect has
been less monotonous, but of a nature to produce reflections akin to
Swift's ' Meditations on a Broomstick ; ' and if we do not give them
publicity here, it is because we have misgivings about that discriminat-
ing party with the scissors in the editorial den of the ' Gardener:' for
editors are not moralising animals, and it is not safe to trust them with
fine sentiments; and as for poetry, they class it with the Potato disease,
and topics of that nature.

Speaking of editors, we have a profound veneration for the marvellous cir-
cumspection and discrimination they display, as a general rule, in dealing
with the contributions that come before them, but have never been able to
fathom the mystery of "leading articles." We believe it is the object of
editors to give the best articles the first place and the best type (we are speaking
of horticultural editors generally, for they are all equally shrewd) ; but there
is a suspicion abroad that they are a trifle weak on this point, and that the
question of merit does not always rule in such matters. It has been indig-
nantly suggested that the reason some contributions find their way into leading
columns is that the poor creatures who wrote them might be well pilloried, and
their conspicuous incapacity and failings, or their conceit and stupidity, the
more effectually exposed. It is only charitable to state, however, that this
explanation was offered simply because no other probable reason could be
suggested. When Benjamin Franklin was an ill-used " printer's devil " in the
newspaper oflBce of his elder brother and his partner, his literary contributions
were despised, and he was severely lectured, if not cuffed, for presuming to
address the editor at all ; but when he took to writing his articles in a dis-
guised hand, and shoving them under the office-door at night — not forgetting
to use a pretentious novi de jjlume at the same time — they at once became
prominent " leaders" that created quite a sensation among the early Bostoni-
ans, and the editor became so anxious to know who their " able and highly
esteemed correspondent" was, that poor Benjamin thought he might venture
to confess to the imposition, and was kicked out of the office by the editor for
his pains, and some days after was a homeless wayfarer in the streets of Phila-
delphia. Benjamin moralised much on this circumstance in after-life, just
as readers of the horticultural papers do now when they see these issued occa-
sionally, " wrong end first. "

112 THE GARDENER. [March

A remarkable exhibition of flowers that was from the Edinburgh Botanical
Gardens in which those rare subjects the Senecio vulgaris and the Leontodon tar-
axacum were found. We once saw a magnificent display of the first in the trial-
grounds of an eminent seedsman not far from Tooting. We clambered over the
fence one Sunday morning to see it, and afterwards wrote to the proprietor
to compliment him on his acquisition, and was assured that he believed he
had the best collection of the kind in England. We believe he still has a
fine stock of it.

Mr Wright, of the * Journal of Horticulture,' has, we think, made rather an
important discovery. For years back it has been perfectly well known that
galvanised wire seriously injured the trees that were trained to it, under
certain circumstances, but what the circumstances were was a puzzle. Mr
Wright has, however, made out pretty clearly, from experiment and evidence
which he has collected, that the injury is caused by a certain acid in the wire,
but which becomes dissipated in time. New wire, it appears, is never safe,
but after a few years it becomes harmless, while a good coat or two of paint
prevents injury at all times.

The 'Journal of Horticulture ' speaks highly of Geranium Guillon Mangilli as
an unusually good kind, and particularly serviceable for winter flowering; and
we have ourselves heard its good character confirmed by excellent judges.

There appears to be something very like a famine this season in certain
kinds of vegetable-seeds, and what seed has been harvested is of indifferent
quality. We believe the seedsmen never had greater difficulty in getting in
their stocks of some kinds, and they are issuing advice to their customers to
sow thickly such subjects as Kidney Beans, Peas, Onions, Lettuce, and Rad-
ishes, &c. As might be expected, seeds are also dearer than they have been
for some years. Reader.

HINTS FOR AMATEURS.

It is a judicious practice, where young trees have been planted on
walls or fences, to allow^ them to sink with the soil before training is
performed ; and now that dry weather may be expected (and probably
March dust), these trees may be trodden firmly, the mulching adjust-
ed, and training done at earliest convenience. Training, like many
other operations, is a matter of taste — the methods are almost endless ;
but on walls of limited extent, if variety is wanted (as is often the case
with proprietors of the amateur class), the extension system, as prac-
tised by some, cannot be recommended. Trees planted from 12 to 15
feet apart will meet the wdshes of any class of cultivators ; and if, for
variety's sake, a cordon (upright) be put between each tree, a goodly
collection may be grown. What we say might be done ; we do not
always advise its being put into practice. Rather get a selection of
kinds, especially those which do well in the soil of the district, and
which the climate suits. As an example, we visited the famous Dr Ro-
den on the 12th inst., who is so successful in raising Strawberries and
managing pyramid and dwarf Apple-trees. He has whole lines (from

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 113

fourteen to twenty-eight) in his borders, of individual kinds, because his
soil suits them better than others. The ground is light and sandy ; and
to meet the difficulty, he lifts carefully and mulches till his trees are a
mass of fibres, and then he troubles himself little in regard to seasons
being cold, wet, or dry. Certainly his pyramids were as near perfec-
tion as may be met with. Apricots and Peaches he troubles little
with, as these (we often have noted) fail with all the skill and man-
ipulation experience can devise ; and they seldom can be grown for
profit where good suitable soil is not procurable. When the young trees
are about to be trained, decide on the system : we have used many
systems in years gone by, but probably fan-training is the best on
walls. The side shoots should be kept down to the level desired, the
centre ones cut back more or less, and all should be regulated to form
three-fourths of a circle. Each shoot should be equidistant to begin
with : the minor, or fruit-bearing wood, will be easily put in its place.
I have long since abandoned the practice of much " cutting back."
I often lay in full length the shoots as they come from the nurs-
ery, especially with Peaches and Apricots. Morello Cherries also do
well almost uncut in winter pruning. In every case, for forming hand-
some trees, we prefer " maidens," and then there is comparatively little
danger from canker. Trees with snags are abominable ; and we lately
saw some trees in beautiful form almost ruined by cutting high above
the wood-buds, leaving pieces to die off.

Horizontal training answers capitally for every kind of fruit we
know : Pears, Plums, Peaches, and Apricots we have trained in this
form with the view of reducing labour. Upright training is most
easily accomplished by taking a shoot, straight right and left at proper
distance above the ground (say a foot to 15 inches), and rub off all buds
except those which are best placed and nearest to equal distance from
each other. They can be led upright as straight as the use of rod or
line can direct their course. Many trees may be seen every year vigor-
ous, and plenty of fruit on them, when no such pains are expended on
them, — precisely just as seed will vegetate in crooked drills, or no
drills at all, and come to perfection as well as if the lines had been
straight and equidistant ; but for all that, the man of taste will have
his seed-lines straight, and his trees as straight as gun-barrels, — and
thus trained, with fruit-buds from base to apex, who would say that
such work would not give pleasure 1 We know it does to many ama-
teurs, and the correspondence we have on such matters with men who
are hundreds of miles apart justifies our assertion. I wish all prac-
tical men could do as they would in such matters.

Whatever remains unfinished, as formerly advised, we would urge
the propriety of bringing to a close. Staking will require attention,
as many will have experienced from the terrific gales which have
visited us during the past season. Protection, whether by nets,
wood or glass copings, or branches, should now be in position : keep-

H

114 THE GARDENER. [March

ing back the progress of vegetation by such protection is of great
moment. If the trees are not in good condition at root, all such pro-
tection is expense and precious time thrown away. Though we have
our walls, outside and inside, with such glass protection, we put little
value on it. Having nets all round is an expense which we could
hardly expect to pay for good crops of fruit. A little disbudding may
be necessary in early localities : let the wood-buds offering to grow
straight out be rubbed off. We generally rub out all which are not
required, as soon as they can be detected, from fruit-buds ; and when
the latter are superabundant, we do not mind rubbing off a large num-
ber. Weakly trees are far more likely to carry good crops by such a
practice.

FLOWER-GARDEN.

The whole stock of plants should now be noted, and every means
used to get such kinds as are weak in number or quality to meet
the purpose for which they are required. At present amateurs (experi-
enced ones will laugh at the nonsense) may be in a dilemma to know
what to do with their flower-gardens, while opinions of "leading"
practical men are so conflicting. Some of them seem to become
desperate when they cannot pervert (it may be superior minds) to their
petted notions. " A man of independent mind " can afford to remain
in a thoroughly sound practice till his taste may mislead him into the
fallacy of turning lawns, geometrical gardens, and well-kept borders
into receptacles for weeds, and the various huge plants which are so
fascinating to some. They bloom for a few weeks, then have the
knife applied to give them a decent exterior. We go in for wild
gardens, alpine gardens, herbaceous gardens, Rose gardens, spring
gardens, and others ; but to mix them all together (as we once saw a
poor fellow in a northern asylum put all his groceries and other viands
into his huge worsted blue-bonnet) is a practice we hope never to be
perverted to. We are content to look quietly on at the amusing
correspondence which may be seen in the various horticultural papers.
Proceed with potting all such plants as Pelargoniums, Verbenas,
Petunias, &c., which are to make a display when all the most useful
spring and early summer flowering-plants have done their best. When
pits or other structures can be spared in which such plants can be
turned out instead of potting them, a great saving of labour and pots
will be effected. Dahlias may be put into heat to increase their numbers
by cuttings : place the latter into small pots in a little sandy loam, with
a heel if possible ; plunge the pots into bark or other beds before they
are allowed to flag, and they will soon root, then they may be grown
on slowly till danger from frost is past. All hardy and half-hardy plants
may be increased without delay : nearly all are the better of a growing
temperature under glass till they are ready to plant out. Carnations,
Pansies, Phloxes, Pentstemons, and all hardy herbaceous plants, may
now be planted out when the ground is in order. Hardy annuals may

1 88 1.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 115

be sown. Sweet -Peas, Mignonette, Stocks of choice kinds, Asters,
Lobelias, may again be sown, cuttings taken off, and the stock got up
to its proper quantity. All annuals requiring heat may be sown in
pots. Balsams, Cockscombs, Marigolds, and such kinds, will do well
together, but much heat without light and air will rear worthless plants.

Iresines, Alternantheras, and similar heat-loving plants, should be
kept by themselves if possible : they may be propagated rapidly now,
and be in good condition long before they can be planted out.

The herbaceous borders should be forked over ; plants which are
growing beyond bounds may be reduced, and all pieces not wanted
carefully taken out of the collection. Trenching, manuring, renewing
of soil, or otherwise preparing the flower-garden when not occupied
with spring plants, may be attended to with all promptitude. Order
should now prevail : weeds, tree-leaves, patchy lawns, and moss-covered
walks, must not exist.

ROSE-GARDEN.

Try and find out all Roses which are killed outright, and replace
them before there is a scarcity of plants to be purchased — as I fear
there will be. The reports of Roses and shrubs which are killed are
truly distressing ; but Roses generally do not show the worst till growth
takes place, — then (except suckers, which generally come from stocks
of budded and grafted plants) deaths appear in every direction. When
planting Roses the ground should be well drained, deeply trenched,
and well manured. The plants should be placed in the ground to
cover the junction of stock and scion. Mulching is always of good
service. Roses on walls may be trimmed, thinned if necessary, and
trained. Seldom can climbers have room to do justice to their growth ;
but many of the free-growing hybrid Perpetuals and Teas can be
trained from 6 to 12 feet, and give a fine display. Gloire de Dijon ;
Souvenir de Malmaison, and several others of that class, do well
trained to walls. All pruning, manuring, and dressing of Rose beds
and borders may be finished as soon as weather will allow it ; but by
late pruning nothing is lost.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Abundance of plants are now in bloom, both hard and soft wooded.
Hardy plants which have been forced are now very gay, and of great
service where cut-flowers are in request. Successions, to keep a con-
tinuous supply till they are plentiful out of doors, must be put into
warmth periodically. An ordinary frame or pit, shut up with moisture
and sun-heat, will bring many useful things on rapidly. Rhododen-
drons, such as the nobleanum class, will turn in without such aid :
outside they are in flower, but frost cuts them down very frequently.
Deutzias, Spiraeas, White Lilacs, Mock Oranges, White Thorns, Double
Cherries (single ones are good, and may also bear fruit), along with

116 THE GARDENER. [March

Roses of great variety, will go far to make up a good collection of
white flowers. Azaleas and Camellias are most useful as show plants
at this season. Azalea Borsig, of tlie semi-double whites, is of much
value, and flowers readily with little heat. Camellias and Azaleas
which are to flower in autumn should be encouraged to finish their
growth and set their buds as early as possible. Healthy root-action
is of great moment in the formation of flowers and their development.
Oranges and all hard-wooded plants should have a general overhaul
after they have flowered and are breaking into fresh growth. Some
require cutting back, and, after they break into fresh growth, have
their balls of soil reduced, and repotted into same size of pots. Good
drainage and healthy soil made rather firm are indispensable for hard-
wood plants. Nothing which is expected to grow into good specimens
should starve for want of root-room. Cinerarias and Calceolarias to
flower late may be shifted into larger pots, or be allowed to root through
into soil placed in larger pots on which the plants are set. Pot on a
quantity of plants for summer flowering : Pelargoniums, Fuchsias,
Double Petunias, Kalosanthes, and suchlike, make a show. The last
does not do with much pot -room. Air freely, but exclude frosty
winds. A sprinkling of water may be necessary over the plants and on
the floors during hot drying weather : 50° to 55° is warm enough with-
out sun. Climbers may be moderately pruned, and not too stiftiy
trained.

STOVE.

Plants which have flowered must now be cared for to supply next sea-
son's flowers. Pot all plants requiring it in this structure ; drain freely,
and use well-broken turfy soil, whether loam or peat. It should not lie
in solid lumps, which in course of time become sour and sodden. Sand
and charcoal, mixed with turfy loam and peat, more or less of each,
suit most of the ordinary stove-plants. LycopOds, Dracaenas, Cyperus,
Palms of species, &c., should be grown on in quantity where
such things are required for rooms. Achimenes, Gloxinias, Begonias,
Gesnerias, and similar summer-flowering kinds, should be on the way.
A free-growing temperature of about 60° to 65° at night, and the struc-
tures shut up during the day with sun-heat 10° or 15° higher, will do
what is necessary. Water sprinkled about the paths and over the
plants must be done judiciously. M. T.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

NO. III. — THE GRAPE VINE {continued).

If all goes well, these shoots will soon push out, and after a short
time will grow rapidly, and should reach the top of your house by
midsummer, when their tops should be broken or pinched off. Side
branches or laterals will also push at every joint, and these must be

i88i.] THE FRUIT-GARDEN. 117

allowed to grow for a foot or more, and then stopped, for it is not
good to allow the growth to get crowded. From the time the Vines
are planted, all through the summer and autumn months, ventilation,
to cause a circulation of fresh air about the foliage, must be regularly
attended to. In bright, warm weather, a circulation of air should be
kept up night and day, for a high night temperature is a mistake.
Without sun-heat, your temperature should always be from 65"" to 75°
by day during the growing season. If this cannot be obtained natur-
ally, then it should be provided artificially. It does not matter much
what it is during the hours of darkness. Our vineries are sometimes
as low as 40° on a cold morning, and very often 50° even in fine
weather. We are particular to have a good growincf temperature by
day, but if the temperature is anywhere between 40° and 55° we
never bother ourselves, although the heat declines to the former figure.
We will not refer to this point again, as that is all we have to say
on the matter, except that, with bright sun and air on, 80° or 90° is
not too much. Water will be necessary for the inside border occa-
sionally during summer, and even the outside one, if the summer
prove dry. At first, while the plants are small and few roots are in
the borders, no great quantity will be necessary; but in a year or
two thorough drenchings will be needed, for Vine -leaves evaporate
water at an almost incredible rate, and the consequence is that Vine-
borders get very dry in a short time. When this happens, the Vines
soon lose their vigour, and red-spider comes to prey on their leaves,
and the two, between them, soon turn strong healthy plants into
weaklings. Care must therefore be taken that the Vines never suffer
for want of water. Vines are rather liable to be attacked by red-spider,
but complete and copious syringings, directed full tilt at the back of the
leaves, will soon settle it. When the fruit is on the Vines, care must
be taken not to dash the water at the bunches, but past them, or the
beautiful bloom, which enhances their value and appearance on the
table, will be washed off. Water which trickles off the leaves on to
the bunches will not harm the bloom much, although it will not im-
prove it. Of course, when red-spider is absent, syringing is not neces-
sary, but a washing once a-week before the Grape begins to colour
will not spoil the bloom, and will prevent spider making its appear-
ance. At whatever stage it appears, drown it out, for that is the only
way to keep healthy Vines ; and although trickling water may injure
the bloom a little. Vines which are weakened year after year by attacks
from red-spider will soon cease to produce Grapes worth having, far
less preserving the bloom on. You will know when it begins its work,
for the leaves, when attacked, will appear as if they intended ripening
off. If the leaves grow yellowish before their time, examine the backs
of them carefully, and the downy webs which the creatures weave
will soon be seen, and a little close examination will reveal the minute
insects themselves. Sometimes thrip makes its appearance. In this

118 THE GARDENER. [March

case the attacked spots look as if tbey had been scorched by fire, and
if leaves having this appearance are examined, the thrips will be seen.
They are small black insects — yellow when young — and are much
larger than spiders, but still small enough to escape observation
unless looked for. The mischief they cause soon betrays them.
Sponging them off with soapy water is the only cure worth naming.
Sometimes scale and mealy-bug get carried to Vines with other
plants, and both are terribly troublesome insects. Their names de-
scribe their appearance. The sponge will remove the scale, but if
they are allowed to establish themselves, it will take a deal of trouble.
Mealy-bug must be sought for and killed individually ; such a task
we hope you may never have, and therefore we advise their immediate
destruction the moment any insects appear. It costs much less work
than to leave them alone until winter, and then attempt to destroy
them. Insects must be destroyed in summer, or they will not be de-
stroyed at all. That is our experience. At the same time, a good
scrubbing with a hard brush and warm soapy water, after the Vines
are pruned, will help to destroy any lingerers. Don't paint them
over with nasty mixtures which do no good, but which get washed off
with syringing during summer on to the leaves, glass, &c.

By the end of summer and beginning of autumn the wood will get
brown and hard. When this takes place, more air should be given,
especially in bright weather, and the heat may be allowed gradually to
decline. If, however, the wood is not brown, the heat must be kept
up until it is, for if winter comes before the wood is ripe, it will come
too soon. After it is ripe and the leaves turn yellow, you should
thatch your outside border to prevent its being kept soaking wet all
the winter, for any young roots that may be in it will very likely get
spoilt. After the leaves have fallen, no more heat will be necessary
than will just keep out frost ; but you will likely be keeping Pelar-
goniums over winter in the house, and will keep the frost out for
their sake.

A week or two after the leaves have all fallen, the Vines will need
to be pruned. Now you will need some courage to do this properly,
for although the operation is in itself very simple, it may cost you a
pang to cut away the whole of the growth which you have been at so
much pains to produce ; and yet you will not do right, unless the Vines
be very strong, if you do not cut down the rods to within 6 inches of
where they started last year. (We ought to have said sooner that each
plant should only be allowed to produce one rod, and that the advice
given to allow two buds to remain on the young cane at planting-time
was for fear of any accident occurring. As soon as one takes the lead
the other should be pinched, and prevented from growing further.)
After they are pruned the cuts should be dressed over with a little shell-
lac varnish, to prevent any sap escaping — or bleeding as it is called —
for this sometimes happens, and it is very weakening. After pruning

i88i.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 119

is over, the surface of the border should be broken up an inch or two
with a fork, and if the soil has subsided below what is the intended
floor-level, more soil should be added. This soil should contain an
extra allowance of manure and bones, for the roots of Vines travel to-
wards where their food is, and it is highly desirable to attract them
to, and to keep them at, the surface. Over all, a few inches of
decayed manure should be placed, and this should be kept always
moist, so that, when waterings are given, its manurial matter may be
washed into the border. Its continual moisture will be an attraction
to the roots besides. When this is done you will be ready for another
year's start. J. H.

{To he continued.)

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

LUCCTLIA GRATISSIMA AND L. PINCEANA.

Why is it that one so seldom sees these fine plants in cultivation 1 Even
in many large places where ample accommodation and suitable posi-
tions could easily be found for them, they are rarely met with. A
well-grown and well-fiowered plant of either variety, but especially of
gratissima, is a sight not easily forgotten, and only requires to be seen
to be appreciated : the deliciously sweet perfume, and delicate shades
of the flowers, are all that one could desire in a flower. The plant
is of rather a straggling habit to be effective as a pot-plant for house
or table work, but is very effective thus grown for conservatory
decoration. The position most suited to it is against the back wall
of the conservatory ; and planted out in a suitably prepared border, it
is here quite at home, and will be a most welcome addition to flower-
ing-plants used for this purpose. The flowers are of a reddish-pink
colour, and are borne in clusters on the points of the young shoots, so
that in adapting it as a wall -plant, it should be trained up in the
usual way to cover the space allotted to it, and the young lateral
shoots encouraged to make growth, which, after flowering, should be
spurred back. It is not at all a difiicult plant to cultivate — rather the
reverse, in fact — so that it cannot be on that account it is so seldom
met with. It is a native of Nepaul.

The Luculia is propagated by cuttings of the half-ripened wood, which
should be put in during the month of June. The pan for the cuttings
should be well drained, and filled three parts full of peat and sharp
sand, and the remaining part with pure silver sand, in which the cut-
tings should be inserted so that the base may just rest on the peat and
sand without entering it. Cover with a bell-glass and set the pan in a
close pit, where a gentle bottom-heat can be maintained. When they
have made roots, shake them out carefully and pot them up singly in
3-inch pots, using a mixture of equal parts of good turfy loam and peat,

120 THE GARDENER. [March

with sufficient sharp sand and a few small pieces of charcoal to keep all
open. Keep them close for a time after potting until they emit fresh
roots, when they should have a moderate allowance of air given them.
They may probably require a shift into 5-inch pots about the end of
August ; but unless it is found desirable to force them on into good-
sized plants quickly, they should be wintered in the small pots, and
they will be ready to rush away in the spring. They should be
pinched a few times when young, as they require it in order to get a
good stool formed at first. A temperature of about 50° will suit them
well during winter. About February, when they begin to move, they
may be shifted into 6-inch or 8-inch pots, using the same kind of soil,
only rougher in proportion to the size of pot used. They should still
be kept in a warm pit until they get fairly established in the pots,
but as the season advances into May and June, they may do without
fire-heat, by paying due attention to ventilation, and closing the pit
rather early, in order to husband some of the sun-heat. After the
pots are fairly filled with roots, those intended for planting out may
be put into their permanent places, being very careful to secure suffi-
cient drainage, as they will not thrive in stagnant or soured soil, so
that it is necessary to have ample provision made for all surplus water
to escape readily. A drain should therefore be carried away from the
bed in which they are to be planted; from 9 inches to a foot of rubble-
stones should then be put in the bottom, and a few inches of lime-
rubbish on the top, which will form into a kind of crust, and prevent
the drainage from being choked with the soil, and yet will allow the
water to escape readily. The soil should be used in the rough state,
and may consist of the same kind as that used for the pots, only much
rougher. In planting, press the soil pretty firmly round the ball, and
water with tepid water. In a short time they will begin to grow
rapidly, and will soon cover the space allotted to them. Their season
of flowering is in the autumn and winter, being then doubly welcome,
when flowers are somewhat scarce and generally most in demand ; and
the sprays are very useful for mixing with Ferns and suchlike, for
vases. L. pinceana is in all respects similar to the other, only that
the flowers are white, and therefore makes a very useful variety. The
same treatment applies to both, and both are worthy of a place in the
most select collection of greenhouse plants.

ERYTHRINA CRISTA- GALLI.

The Erythrina Crista-galli, or coral-tree, is one of the really neglected
greenhouse plants : we cannot recollect having ever seen it cultivated
except at two or three places ; and why it should be so is hard to say,
as it is a very handsome and striking plant when in flower, has beauti-
ful foliage, is easily cultivated, and requires little room during winter,
as it is then dried off, cut back, and may be put away along with
Fuchsias and suchlike. It suits very well also for house work.

i88i.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 121

though hardly adapted for the table, but it makes a grand exhibition
plant when well grown.

There are several varieties of Erythrina, mostly from the East
and West Indies, Brazil, and South America — the gum-lac of com-
merce being obtained from one of the species. The E. Crista-galli,
however, is the best known, and, in fact, except in botanical collec-
tions, almost the only variety one meets with in general cultivation.

The Erythrina is propagated by cuttings, either of the ripened
stems in autumn, cut into lengths, as is sometimes done in the case of
Poinsettia pulcherrima, or of the young shoots in spring, after they
have made about 2 inches of growth, taken off with a heel. In either
case the cutting should be put into a properly drained pan, half filled
with soil, and then filled up with sand. The cuttings, at any rate the
young growths, should be covered with a bell-glass, and the pots
plunged in a mild hotbed, or other place where a moderate bottom-heat
can be obtained. As soon as they have made roots they should be
potted off at once, and not delayed until the roots have got too long,
else they may get broken off in the handling. The pots used may be
about 3-inch ones, and the soil may consist of equal parts of loam and
peat, with some old dried cow-dung added, and sufiicient sand to keep
it open. Until the young plants get established they should be kept
in a temperature of about 60°, and syringed daily on fine days. As
the season advances they may be removed to somewhat cooler quarters,
and shifted into larger pots as they require it. They come into flower
about June and continue flowering a considerable time. After they
are done flowering, and in order to get the wood properly ripened, they
may be set in a sheltered position out of doors, and exposed to the
sun, until the autumn, when they can be cut over and stored away for
winter, where they will be safe from frost. They must be kept rather
dry during this time, and started again in spring, according to the
time they are wanted to flower. They are somewhat subject to the
attacks of red-spider, which can be kept under by the use of the
syringe. Thus treated, they will be found a welcome addition to our
list of flowering greenhouse plants, and will well repay any care
bestowed upon them.

EUPHORBIA JACQUINI^FLORA.

The above stove-plant is well-known and highly appreciated on
account of it flowering from November on throughout the winter
months, when its bright flower-wreaths are especially welcome. I
desire just now to draw attention to it as a most suitable plant for
covering the back wall of stoves, planted out, instead of being grown
in pots. Of course it is best to grow in both ways ; but though it is
very fine in pots, it cannot for a moment be compared to those planted
out and trained to wires on the wall. I have here a fine plant of
Bougainvillea glabra, which covers most of the gable of the stove — said

122 THE GARDENER. [March

stove being a span-roofed structure — and the wall is 16 feet high,
with the glass rising 7 feet above that, so that it is a pretty lofty
structure. The Bougainvillea blooms gloriously here, as it gets the
full sun the whole day ; it was rather bare, however, in winter, when
it was pruned, so in 1879 I planted a few plants of the Euphorbia, and
allowed it to run up along with the Bougainvillea. The Euphorbia has
reached nearly the top, and is now a perfect mass of flower ; some of
the spikes will measure fully 3 feet in length ; the flowers, also, are
much larger than when grown in the pot, and brighter in colour, and
the foliage is both larger and richer-looking. Of course it is kept
growing on, only partly pruned back : some of the shoots are as thick
as a man's finger. The border is about 2 feet wide, and is bounded
by the pathway on the opposite side, and along and under this path
runs the feed-pipes from the boiler, so that both the plants have the
benefit of the heat from the pipes at their roots, which may partly
account for their vigour. J. G., W.

THE BEDDING- OUT SYSTEM.

In the 'Gardener' for February, under the above heading, occurs the follow-
ing passage from the pen of *' J. H., B.": —

"Any species or varieties, however beautiful their flowers may be, if they
require support in the way of stakes, are reluctantly admitted into the ' hardy
brigade ; ' and, as a consequence, the greater number of the most beautiful,
showy, and useful of our hardy herbaceous plants are not admissible in the
ideal flower-garden of those who advocate the abandonment of the bedding-
out system.

"Fancy the result of excluding from the herbaceous garden the stately
Delphiniums, the beautiful Asterlike-flowered Pyrethrums, several species of
the Lily family. Carnations, all the taller kinds of Phloxes, and a host of repre-
sentative members of other families that in this windy island of ours it is
absolutely necessary to stake, in some way or other, if we would see them in
all their beauty, and not as bedraggled, bespattered, betattered objects —
highly illustrative of their fitness for admission into the ragged brigade ! "

If your correspondent had used the word "curtailment" instead of " aban-
donment " he would have been nearer the truth ; but that is a small matter.
What I want to draw attention to here, is his statement regarding the objec-
tions which, he says, the opponents of the bedding-out system have to the
*' beautiful species and varieties " of those hardy plants that need support in
the way of stakes. I have only to say, that if "J. H., B." will lay his finger
on any published statements of the advocates of the " hardy brigade " where
it is said, or anything to the same effect is said, that they object to "any species
or varieties, however beautiful their flowers may be," for the reasons assigned,
or where it has been proposed to exclude "Delphiniums, Pyrethrums, Lilies,
Carnations, Phloxes," &c., because they require support, I will pay the Editor
of this paper the sum of £5, to be used for any good horticultural pur-
pose he may think fit, on condition that "J. H., B." pays the same amount
if he fails to make good his statements ; and at the same time I hope he will
see fit to withdraw an assertion which I consider in the light of a slander.

i88i.] THE BEDDING -OUT SYSTEM. 123

How any man could venture to make such statements as the above, who had
the least knowledge of the subject lie writes about, I cannot conceive. The
advocates of hardy plants, and of a freer and more natural style of gardening
in which all the various subjects could be effectively displayed, have con-
tinually, by articles without number, by illustrations, and by lists of the most
copious description, in season and out of season, advocated the great claims
of all good hardy plants, quite irrespective of their size or habit, and have
never so much as alluded to any trouble connected with their culture in the
way of staking till the question of the cost of such work was raised by the
bedding-out brigade themselves, ic'/co alone have used that argument as an obstacle
to the culture of hardy 2)lttnts. I do not profess to know who the "gardeners
of the arm-chair type " are to whom "J. H., B." alludes, but I think it is pro-
bable that your correspondent is casting his innuendoes at men about whose
knowledge and abilities he is in all probability absolutely ignorant. The
author of these remarks has, for nearly twenty years, known some at least
of the most noted advocates of hardy plants and their culture, and who
have had, perhaps, more to do with the present revolution in flower-gardening
than any others ; and he can tell from accurate knowledge, that it would
become some to sit at their feet and learn a portion of that special know-
ledge which has been gained in the field of actual practice, and under the
very best facilities, and which has been amplified and matured by oppor-
tunities of study and observation that fall to the lot of few.

One of the Advocates of the Hardy Brigade.

[As the question of staking was first raised by us, we must point
out that our correspondent misrepresents our object in doing so.
We did not raise the question of expense connected with much
necessary staking and tying " as an obstacle to the culture of hardy
plants." Our object was to show that in our experience — and in a
great measure on account of staking and tying — we did not find
herbaceous plants cheaper than bedding plants, as some represent
them to be. Any one by referring to our remarks in the ' Gardener '
of last November will see what our object was, and by a glance at
the last paragraph will find a recommendation of herbaceous plants,
and not an obstacle to their culture. We might also appeal to the
facts of our practice as a still more forcible refutation of our corre-
spondent's misrepresentation, for we propagate and grow more of a
few genera of hardy herbaceous plants than would suffice to fill the
whole of an ordinary-sized flower-garden. We could also " instance
many important families in which stakes are not required " that we
grow in quantity.

We take this opportunity of referring to a recent issue of the
' Garden^ where also comments are made on "J. H., B.'s" article, and
where " the resorts to which we are driven to defend our position "
are sneeringly alluded to. The writer in the ' Garden ' is in perfect
ignorance of our position, so he manufactures one to suit his purpose.
Long before the editor of the ' Garden ' came to this country, we
had devoted for years much of our spare time to hardy herbaceous
plants, and we could show him a herbarium of them that was formed

124 THE GARDENER. [March

before he knew a Rose from a Thistle. Before the ' Garden ' was
in existence, we wrote of hardy herbaceous plants that they were indis-
pensable for certain styles of gardening ; and for years before and after
the advent of the * Garden/ this magazine continued to devote no
inconsiderable portion of its columns to the description and culture
of these plants. That is part, and only part, of our " position " in rela-
tion to herbaceous plants.

We may further add that it may perhaps be considered as much
in the interest of careful gardening and good order to refer to
the proper support — with stakes that shall be the least possible offen-
sive to the eye — of plants that cannot be made to stand erect without
them, as it is to write — as has been written in the * Garden ' — of a
border composed of those plants that do not require support, and
to include Picotees and Carnations ; or to state — as has been stated
in an article quoted into the ' Garden ' from the ' Field ' — that when
well grown, stakes are not required to support them against the
elements ! These are statements that 'nay fitly be coupled with others
suggesting a litter of leaves and long grass as fitting adornments for
gardens, — suggestions which may " do for the marines but not for
the line," and that sound more like the utterances of some pheno-
menon who has never had charge of a garden establishment, who has
no standing in either the science or art of horticulture ! and who in
consequence supposes apparently that he is the embodiment of all
horticultural wisdom ! Our gardening and " position " are before the
public, and whatever they may amount to, we want nothing more than
that they be judged on their merits. Will the writer in question tell
us where his gardening could ever be judged of ? We leave it to
others to say whether we have ever been an optimist or an obstruc-
tionist in regard to any branch of gardening ; but we do not aspire,
and refuse to be chained, to this writer's chariot- wheels, and this is
just the secret of these kind of references to our " position."

This magazine and its aids — sneeringly referred to in the ' Garden '
— have brought out quite as many acceptable writers on gardening
as our contemporary has done, and their writings have been used to
pad its pages, so that its sneers are not quite graceful in this respect.
For the capacity of growing hardy herbaceous plants, a very towering
position is claimed by our contemporary. We never condemned that
capacity ; and if it pleases it, we have not the slightest desire to
dim the lustre of its fame in that branch of horticulture. — Ed.]

PLEIONES.

The Pleiones are not so extensively grown as their merits deserve, either
for decorative purposes or for cut bloom, seeing that they bloom at a
season when flowers are so scarce, and the flowers themselves are not

i88i.] PLEIONES. 125

to be excelled by any winter-blooming plants we know. The fact that
they are Orchids need not prevent any one from growing them, as they
require no special accommodation. Comparatively few Orchids are
grown for cut blooms in private establishments, being generally con-
sidered more difficult to cultivate than most stove-plants ; but we
have found them quite as easily managed as any other family of plants
that we have had to do with. Every one knows that without care and
attention no class of plants can be grown satisfactorily ; and Pleiones,
when properly managed, will give quite as satisfactory returns as any
other plants that are grown for winter decoration.

The varieties we find most suitable are P. Wallichiana, P. lagenaria,
and P. maculata, especially the last named, with its pure white sepals
and petals, and most beautiful lips. To grow them well they should
be potted every year directly the blooms fade. Although terrestrial
Orchids, we give them much the same compost as Epiphytes, which
consists of three parts living sphagnum, one part peat and turfy loam,
with some small crocks and charcoal — the peat and the loam to have all
the smaller particles shaken out — mixing the whole thoroughly. If
put in pots, they should have a small inverted pot over the hole in the
bottom, and filled at least three parts full of crocks a little rounded on
the top. A good layer of clean sphagnum should be placed on the top of
the crocks. Fill up with the compost, pressing it rather firmly together
to as near as possible a half-circle from the inner rim of the pot. Pull
the decayed blooms out of the young bulbs, shaking them out of the
pots to separate them individually, and fix them over the pot with a piece
of copper wire in the shape of a staple to keep them in their places.
They should be at least 2h inches clear of each other. In placing
them, care should be taken that the young growths are as near as
possible that distance apart : it does not matter so much for the parent
bulb, as it will almost disappear by the time the young ones are ma-
tured. Put a little more of the compost over the roots, and finish off
with a layer of clean sphagnum, so that when finished the whole is as
near as possible to a half-circle with the outer rim of the pot. Give
a good watering, and with a sharp-pointed stick dibble in the sphag-
num amongst the bulbs. As Pleiones are shallow rooters, the growing
sphagnum helps to cover the roots that come to the surface. After
the first watering they will want very little until they begin to make
roots. Sprinkle them overhead occasionally through a fine rose until
they have got a good start, then, if properly drained, they can scarcely
be over-watered, especially in their growing season. Pved-spider is their
worst enemy, but they will stand the syringe as well as any plant I
know, so that pest can be guarded against. A shelf near the glass in
an ordinary plant-stove suits them very well ; in fact, they can be grown
in any place where there is plenty of heat and moisture, and shade from
the direct rays of the sun. After they have finished their bulbs and
the leaves are turning yellow, withhold water gradually; place them in a

126 THE GARDENER. [March

cool vinery or greenhouse, where they will get as much light as possible.
After they have shed their leaves just give them as much water as will
keep the bulbs from shrivelling. When they begin to show flower take
them into heat, dip each pot for a minute or two in water to thor-
oughly moisten the compost : in fact, they should be dipped very often
in their growing season, as the small roots interlace the compost so
much that if they happen to get dry the water will not go into the pot
unless they are dipped. This applies to a great many Orchids, espe-
cially those that have been at rest for some time. When a lot are grown
singly in 4-inch pots, they look very nice standing round a collection
of Orchids or stove-plants, or for furnishing purposes. When taken into
heat, if a few pieces of Selaginella are dibbled into the sphagnum it
makes up for the absence of their foliage. They can be taken into
heat in batches to prolong the flowering season. Most people grow
them in pans : as they root near the surface this plan suits them very
well j if in pots, they want more drainage. W. S. P.

[This paper came to hand just after F. W. B.'s paper in last month was
sent to the printers.]

ROSE NOTES FOR AMATEURS.

It is often said, no flower is a greater favourite with all classes than
the Rose. We have only to look about our own doors for proof of
the correctness of this, as we fail to find a garden where flowers are
grown that does not contain Roses. When we go from home and
meet with amateurs interested in gardening, eleven out of every twelve
of them will speak about Roses before the shortest horticultural con-
versation has been finished, and many will introduce their remarks
with a reference to the Rose. Such has been our experience : only the
other day an esteemed lady put a host of questions to us about Roses,
and we referred her to the 'Gardener' for information on this and
kindred subjects.

The kinds to plant, how to plant, and when to plant, are leading
questions. If I named one dozen Hybrid Perpetuals and one dozen
Teas, I daresay I would have some falling out with me about my
selection, and wanting to substitute or add to. This is an evil, as it
is just by increasing our varieties that we make them collections,
and in doing so very often lose sight of selection. It is the latter that
amateurs should always aim at, not only in Roses, but everything in
their gardens. Collections are interesting, but selections are more
satisfactory. The following are the twenty -four Roses we would
recommend to amateurs, under the generality of circumstances, as most
likely to be really useful ; and where numbers were wanted, we would
have the same kinds twice or more times over : Hybrid Perpetuals —

i88i.] ROSE NOTES FOR AMATEURS. 127

Marie Baumann, John Hopper, Alfred Colomb, Baroness Rothschild,
Charles Lefebvre, Duke of Edinburgh, Fisher Holmes, General Jacque-
minot, Jules Margottin, La France, Madame Victor Verdier, Senateur
Vaissej Teas, &c. — Gloire de Dijon, Niphetos, Safrano, Perle des
Jardins, Marie van Houtte, Madame Levet, Jean Ducher, Homere,
Belle Lyonnaise, Goubault, Solfaterre, Jean Sisley. These are all
intended for open-air culture. They have variety of colour, fine forms,
and, above all, vigorous constitutions, to recommend them. They are
all sweet-scented, too, with the exception of Baroness Rothschild;
but it produces such a splendid sized continuous bloomer, is such a
favourite colour, and is so easily grown, that I cannot leave it out.
Some of the Teas are useful for planting against walls and pillars, but
I have noticed they change this habit sometimes in different parts :
and to make sure, I would advise that they be all planted in beds at
first ; and when they grow, and it is seen which are going to climb
most readily, let them be moved to such positions. It is surprising that
Tea Roses are not more grown by amateurs. I am told by those who
ought to know, that the demand for them is trifling compared to others.
They are more tender, of course, than the Hybrid Perpetuals : but it is not
always the hardiest things we grow most of in our gardens ; and I am
sure, were Tea Roses of the kinds named grown more extensively, that
their possessors would be highly gratified with them, as, although the
flowers of some of them are not large, the buds are simply exquisite.
In their case, winter protection would in most localities need to be
included as part of their culture ; but all Roses are benefited by this,
especially in Scotland. We lately saw large numbers of them thatched
up with straw and fern there ; and when covered over like this in
autumn, and left so until spring, the trouble is little and the gain
great, as the arctic winters we are now having are injurious to Roses
of all kinds. We generally plant Roses here in November ; but farther
north, March would be our planting month, as then we could plant
every one with the certainty of its growing ; but in autumn we would
be afraid of the winter spoiling our work, and killing our plants
into the bargain. From this it will be gathered that we do not think
those who may not yet have planted their Roses are too late. They
can be planted with success all through March. Those who have bushes
growing too close, may lift them all, manure the same bed well, dig
it over deeply, and replant thinner. Old plants with long fibreless
roots should have all such cut in to 6 inches or so from the stem. New
Roses to be purchased from the nursery should be ordered at once.
Have everything ready to plant them the day they arrive. The sooner
the roots are under the soil the better. Laying them in by the " heels "
in one place, and shifting them about two or three times before finally
planting, does them much harm. Whenever Roses have to be planted,
the soil should be good — as good as possible ; and let the soil be what
it may, plenty of manure should be worked up with it. No one will

128 THE GARDENER. [March

ever do wrong in following up tins where a bed is made new altogether.
When old soil is taken out and entirely replaced, we would give one
good barrow-load of manure to every three of soil. Attention to
planting, soil, and manure makes a vast difference in after-years. Like
other things, if carelessly done, it will always want seeing to ; but
when well done, there is an end of it. Do not plant deeply but firmly :
this is very important. Deep planting ruins the plants ; and when
they are loose, they never root well : 3 or 4 inches is quite enough of
soil to be over the roots. Never prune before planting. A week or
two, or a month after, is much better. Wlien the roots are beginning
to lay hold of the soil and the buds are seen to be swelling, but before
they come into leaf, is the time to prune. From the time they are
planted until they are growing and firm in the soil, they should have
the support of a short stake. After planting, should very dry weather
set in before the buds are swelled and the flowers open, they will be
benefited by a heavy watering ; and if nc plants are growing about to
shade the soil, a slight mulching of manure, short grass, or leaves is
beneficial. J. MuiR.

MORGAM.

THE FLOWER-GARDEN

The end of this month should see all hardy bedders into their places.
It is better for the plants to have them established early ; and it is
easier to manage than to leave all plants, irrespective of hardiness, to
be put out with the tenderer flower. Just try putting out the quite
hardy flowers now — Echeverias, East Lothian Stocks, and Calceolarias
in April; Geraniums and other tender bedders early in June, and
the very tenderest, as Coleus, a month later, — and you will find how it
eases the crush at bedding-out time. Practically there is no " hurry-
scurry " at all at any one time. Such a system of planting requires to
be arranged beforehand ; but a plan is necessary in any case to get the
work done with certainty and speed, and should have been at least
roughly prepared the previous autumn. Always remember in propa-
gating tender bedders that it is better to leave them till the latest
moment, than to strike them slowly and to have the young plants dwind-
ling in hothouses. Leave as much of the striking of cuttings there-
fore till the end of the month and April. The great majority of our
plants pass only thrice through the hand in spring : first, cutting of the
slips, then inserting them in boxes where they are struck in a few
days, then transplanting them into frames. What a business it used
to be when almost every plant, even to the Calceolarias, were potted
singly ! What an amount of watering, and what shabby plants after
all ! That used to be heaping up work with a vengeance.

R. P. B.

i88i.] BOTANY FOR GARDENERS. • 129

BOTANY FOR GARDENERS.

NO. VI. — INFLORESCENCE, ifec.

Inflorescence is the ramification of that part of the plant intended
for reproduction by seed, and the reproductive organs of plants are the
flowers. Extremely varied indeed are the forms of inflorescence, in
some cases simple, but in most cases compound. In the Tulip it is
simple, and the peduncle supports but one solitary terminal flower.
A raceme has an inflorescence in which the flowers are arranged singly
on distinct pedicels along a common axis, — ex.^ Wallflower, many of
the Leguminosae, such as common garden Pea and Glycine (Wisteria)
sinensis, Veronica (garden varieties). A spike difi'ers chiefly from a
raceme in having its individual flowers sessile — that is, they are not
supported by a stalk as in racemes^ but lie close upon the body that
supports it, — ex., the common Plantain. A compound spike consists
of a collection of spikes arranged in a racemose manner. A spikelet is
a term used exclusively in describing Grasses, signifying the small ter-
minal collection of florets. A corymb is a form of raceme, in which
the pedicels are gradually shorter as they approach the summit, result-
ing in a flat-headed inflorescence, — ex.. Candytuft. An umbel is an
inflorescence in which the flowers expand first at the base and last at
the end or centre {centripetcdly) , with stalks radiating from a common
point, — ex., British Umbelliferae, such as Hemlock, Parsley, Carrot.
A ci/me is a kind of inflorescence produced by the rays of an umbel
forming one terminal flower, and then producing secondary pedicels
from below it, the flowers opening first at the end and last at the base,
— ex., Chickweeds, Stichworts, common garden Laurustinus. A panicle
is an irregularly branched raceme, — ex., Bramble, Horse-chestnut.

Usually, though not invariably, the corolla forms the most ornamen-
tal part of plants, the parts of which are termed petals, which are
extremely varied and numerous in form. In some the corolla or
petals are polypetalous — that is, each part is separate from the other :
those of the Ranunculus are polypetalous, and are regular in form,
shape, and size. All representative British orders of the division
ThalamifloriB have their petals polypetalous, including such orders as
Ranunculace^, Cruciferse, Violace^e, and Caryophyllaceas, the greater
portion of which contain regular flowers. Those of Violacese, and a
few others, including Fumariacese, have their flowers irregular. In
the common Primrose the flowers are gamopetalous, and still regular.
In some cases the flowers may be labiate, as in the Mints (Meuthas),
Deadnettles, (Lamiums), &c. ; calceolate, as in Cypripedium calceolus ;
campanulate, as in the Harebells (Campanulas) ; ringent, as in the
Linaria vulgaris ; papilionaceous, as in leguminous plants — Pea, Bean,
ifec. ; funnel-shaped, as in the Polyanthus and many others. Some
plants do not possess any petals or sepals whatever, but are included
in the division AchlamydeaB, which contains several of our native trees,

I

130 THE GARDENER. [March

sucli as tlie Bircli, Willow, Scotch Fir (Abies excelsa), &c. In some cases
the female {pistil) and male (stamen) flowers are borne on a separate
plant, which is termed dioecious : when borne on the same tree, but in
different flowers, it is called monoecious. In the Arum maculatum, a
common British plant, the stamens and pistils are protected by a
spathe.

The blossom is doubtless a beautiful part of the furniture of the
plant. Sometimes iridescent with the tints of the rainbow, it revels
in the sunbeam, the pride and ornament of vegetation. In respect to
size, the flower varies from a microscopic point to a circumference of
9 feet — Rafflesia Arnoldii being quite that. In the shape of many
Orchises can be seen the forms of various insects and animals, such as
the lizard, frog, wasp, spider, man, grinning monkey, fly, bee, &c.,
presenting the forms mentioned to perfection. W. Roberts.

{To he continued.)

SOLAK-UM CAPSICASTHUM.

Familiar as this old plant is to most gardeners, and considering
its usefulness in the winter season, it is strange to notice what
reluctance is shown in private places to its culture. Perhaps it is
owing to the fact that on the Continent it is grown extensively and
to great perfection, and is sent over here at very moderate prices.
Grown as these imported plants generally are in 5- and 6-inch pots,
so thickly studded with their bright red berries, they are very useful
and attractive objects. They command a ready sale, especially at
Christmas time, when they are prized for room decoration, &c.

Seeds sown now and placed in a temperature of 65^ to 70° will soon
be ready for pricking or potting off ; and I would recommend those
who wish to be successful in the culture of this Solanum, to grow it
freely or without a check at any stage of its growth ; it is therefore im-
portant that the plants are not allowed to remain long in the seed-pan
in a crowded state. Perhaps no better plan can be recommended than
potting them, when fit to handle, into 2|-inch pots, using a light rich
compost. If plunged in bottom-heat, they will start all the sooner,
and move freely into growth. When they have filled their first pots
pretty well with roots, shift them into 4^-inch pots, giving them a com-
post of fibry loam, leaf-mould, and well-rotted cow-manure, in about
equal proportions — to this a dash of bone-meal may be added. If kept
in warm quarters for a few weeks they will soon be ready for shift-
ing into what may be termed their fruiting-pots, which should not
be larger than 6 inches.

In this country they do more satisfactorily if grown throughout
their first year in cold frames ; for if placed in the open air, and the
season be not very favourable, they are not likely to set a good crop of

i88i.] PTERIS UMBROSA. 131

berries. The shape into which the plants are to be trained depends
on the tastes of growers. Suffice it to say, that the more they are
pinched in the early stages of growth, the more dense and bushy they
become ; but if pinched too late in the season, the crop of berries is
likely to be small. I never pinch after the end of IVIay, and those that
are pinched then I do not expect to colour their berries in time for
Christmas. I may remark that by ceasing to pinch the plants at dif-
ferent times a succession of crops is kept up.

This is a moisture - loving plant, and must not at any time be
allowed to suffer for want of water, or it will receive a check that
will stunt its growth for the season, and will most likely be at
the same time attacked with red - spider. If this pest puts in
an appearance on the foliage, let it be at once dealt with by the
vigorous use of the syringe, using water into which some sulphur has
been mixed on two or three consecutive evenings. Green-fly, however,
is the most persistent enemy of the Solanum ; and I find that if the
plants are syringed at intervals of a fortnight with Gishurst's Com-
pound and paraffin-oil, at the rate of 6 or 7 ounces of the former
and a wine-glassful of the latter, to the gallon of water, at SO'' or 85"^,
green-fly does not molest the plants. When they have thoroughly
well-filled their fruiting-pots with roots, they should be watered with
manure-water nearly every time they require watering.

Those who may be impatient of the care and attention necessary to
rear plants from seed, can purchase plants, and as soon as the berries
have been cut, or have dropped off, can prune the plants into shape :
cutting them well back, they may be placed in a temperature of 60°,
where they soon break into fresh growth. They should then have all
the old soil shaken from their roots, and the latter pruned, when they
may be potted into pots just sufficiently large to hold their roots com-
fortably, and afterwards shifted into any desirable size of pots. To make
their chief growth, they should be placed on a well-sheltered border,
where they will have all the sunshine possible. The pots should be
plunged to the rim in coal-ashes, taking care that there is ample drain-
age to keep them clear of stagnant water. In other respects the treat-
ment necessary for young plants is applicable to these.

J. Peoctok.

The Priory Gardens.

PTERIS UMBROSA.

Considering the great demand for ornamental plants for all sorts of
decorative purposes, it is matter for surprise that this most useful and
ornamental Australian Fern is not cultivated to a greater extent. It
can be grown into large plants in comparatively small pots, and is, con-
sequently, a most suitable Fern for furnishing vases and baskets. It
grows, when shifted on into 10- or 12-inch pots, 3 feet high. Its fronds

132 THE GARDENER. [March

are pinnate, and the lower pinnfe also become pinnate. Its colour is
of the most vivid glossy green. A great recommendation to it is that
it can be grown in a cool house ; and it is singuhirly free from the at-
tacks of insects, such as thrips, which are so troublesome in the case of
many Ferns. It is also a Fern of the easiest possible growth, thriving
well in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and a little sand. J. M.

AGAPANTHUS UMBELLATUS.

The Agapanthus, or African Lily, is a plant that one very seldom sees in
any collection of greenhouse plants, and yet in its own way it is a very
useful and decorative plant for entrance-halls, lobbies, or conservatory,
and associates well with palms or other foliage-plants, the light blue
of its flowers being a very attractive colour. It only requires to be
protected from frost during winter, and will grow and flower freely in
any sheltered position out of doors during summer and autumn, but
generally speaking, is all the better of being under glass. It throws
up a strong flower-stem, about 2 feet high or so, with umbels of
flowers at the top, which continue to expand one after another for
a considerable time. The Agapanthus are strong-rooting plants, and
therefore they require a moderately rich soil, of which good turfy loam
should form the staple, enriched with some old cow-manure, and suffi-
cient sharp sand to keep it open. There is also a white variety of the
Agapanthus, named A. umbellatus albiflora, which is deciduous, and
of coarse should be dried off and allowed to rest during winter.

J. G., W.

ROYAIi HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

February 8th.

Primulas, Orchids, and Grapes constituted the chief features at this meeting,
the iirst- named occupying a large s])ace, and forming an attractive group.
There was a large attendance of the members of the Committees.

Fruit Committee. — W. Paul, Esq., in the chair. Mr J. Wallis, The Gar-
dens, Keele Hall, sent a box of Grapes consisting of Gros Colman, in fine con-
dition, and Golden Qaeen, which was not so good; a cultural commendation
was awarded. Mr G. T. Miles, Wycombe Abbey Gardens, sent samples of
new and old Grapes, the former being Black Hamburg, and the latter Lady
Downes ; the Black Hamburgs were very fine : a cultural commendation
was awarded. Mr Hudson, The Gardens, Gunnersbury House, Acton, sent
twelve bunches of very handsome Lady Downes Grape, they had been kept
in bottles for five weeks ; a cultural commendation was unanimously awarded.
Mr Miles also exhibited three very fine specimens of Lord Carington Pine
Apple, for which a cultural commendation was awarded. Messrs Saltmarsh
& Son exhibited a seedling Apple, of deep yellow colour, with an orange cheek
marked with broken streaks of crimson ; it had a tender flesh and an agree-
able sub-acid flavour. It was not of sufficient merit to obtain a certificate.

i88i.] ROVaL horticultural society. 133

Mr Miles, gardener to Lord Carington, exhibited eight handsome fruits of
Fetch's Favourite Cucumber, to which a letter of thanks was awarded. Mr
Gilbert, The Gardens, Burghley, sent a pair of Montrose Seedling Cucumber —
a cross between Sion House and Kenyon's Freebearer ; it is a pretty Cucum-
ber, about a foot long, and very symmetrical. Another seedling called Verdant
Green was exhibited by Mr J. M'Indoe, The Gardens, Hutton Hall, Guisboro .
Messrs Backhouse & Son of York again exhibited a seedling Onion which had
been sent to a former meeting ; the Committee were still |of the same opinion
as they expressed on a former occasion, that there is no difference between it
and the Red Spanish. Mr John Clarke, Sycamore Gardens, Rowledge, sent a
dish of Tomatoes. Mr Lyon, gardener to Sir Edward Scott, Sunbridge Park,
Bromley, sent a very fine dish of Mushrooms, which were much admired, and
to which a cultural commendation was awarded.

Floral Committee. — Dr Denny in the chair. Messrs James Veitch &
Sons, Chelsea, exhibited a handsome group of Orchids in flower, among
which Odontoglossums strongly predominated. Some examples of 0. Alex-
andrse, 0. cirrhosum, and 0. Pescatorei were particularly noticeable. The
charming little 0. blandum was well represented. 0. Roezli and the variety
album, with 0. nevadense, 0. Andersonianum, and 0. triumphans, were also
well shown. A central plant of Ada aurantiaca had seven fine spikes, and
a specimen of Anthurium Andreanum was staged with one of its peculiar
brightly coloured spathes. A specimen of the Chimonanthus-like Hamamelis
virginica var. arborea was shown in flower. A silver Flora medal was
awarded for this collection. Mr W. Bull, King's Eoad, Chelsea, sent several
new plants, including two Palms, one named Astrocaryum Malybo, and the
other Kentia Lindeni, the latter rather elegant. A variety of Ehipidopteris
peltata, appropriately named elegans, was also staged, together with a plant
of Vriesia Falkenbergii and Maranta crocata, described below, for which
first-class certificates were awarded.

Mr B. S. "Williams contributed a grand collection of Primulas — dwarf, of
good habit, and bearing fine trusses of bloom. P. fimbriata coccinea and
fimbriata alba were especially noteworthy — the former for the size of the
flowers and deep colour, and the latter for the purity of the white and the
large trusses. P. fimbriata alba magnifica was in the size and form of the
flowers remarkably fine, but the trusses were not sufficiently developed to
show the variety to the best advantage. P. fimbriata Chiswick Red were
very bright, P. fimbriata rubra and several others being particularly fine. A
group of Cyclamens was also contributed, the plants well flowered and of
good habit, C, persicum Brilliant being remarkable for their intense crimson
of the blooms. A silver Banksian medal was awarded for these handsome
groups.

Mr W. Taylor, the Gardens, Longleat, Warminster, was accorded a vote of
thanks for cut flowers of Pelargonium Guillon Mangilli, which has been
referred to so many times recently. Mr John Odell, florist, Hillingdon,
^liddlesex, sent specimens of a large - flowered variety of Primula sinensis
named Purity ; but it was not considered sufficiently distinct to merit a
certificate. Mr H. Boiler, Kensal New Town, was accorded a vote of thanks
for a group of miniature succulent plants. Mr John Matthews, the
Royal Potteries, Weston-super-Mare, sent some ornamental flower vases and
small Orchid pans similar to those employed in Messrs J. Veitch & Sons'
nursery at Chelsea. From the Society's garden came attractive groups of
double Primulas, C> tisuses, A.zaleas, Ferns, and Selaginellas, Mr J. Osborn,

134 THE GARDENER. [March

gardener to H. J. Buchan, Esq., Wilton ITonse, Southampton, sent a plant of
Odontoglossum AVallisi bearing a spike of yellowish flowers with a pink-
tinted lip; and ]\Ir A. Wright, gardener to J. Brightwen, Esq., The Grove,
Great Stanmore, exhibited a plant of Aerides cylindrica, closely resembling
in stems and habit the peculiar Vanda teres, but differing in the flowers,
which were of moderate size and white.

First-class certificates were awarded for the following plants : —

Maranta crocata (Bull). — A pretty species, with elliptical leaves 3 or 4 inches
in length, shining green on the up[)er surface and purple beneath. It is
dwarf and compact in habit, and produces scapes 5 to G inches in height,
terminating in a small head of orange-coloured imbricated bracts, in the axils
of which the flowers are borne ; but the beauty of the plants rests in the
bracts.

Vriesia FalTcoibcrgi (Bull). — One of the plants which Mr Bull staged in his
collection of new plants at the last summer exhibition of the Royal Horti-
cultural Society. : It has dark green leaves 1^ inch in breadth, slightly recurv-
ing, and purjilish beneath. The spike is about 8 inches high, with large
closely imbricated crimson bracts, with white apices at the upper portion of
the spike.

Primula Dr Denny (Cannell). — A variety of P. sinensis with very large

jwers 14 ii
yellow eye.

Lachenalia Nelsoni. — This was stated to be a seedling cross between L.
luteola and L. aurea, and was exhibited by the Rev. J. G. Nelson, Aldborough
Rectory, Norwich. The scape was 8 or 9 inches in height, with pendulous
ubular yellow flowers, with a tint of orange in the buds and at the upper
portion of the spike. It combined in a marked manner the characters of the
two parents, but was superior to both in vigour of habit and size of the
flowers.

Cineraria William Jennings. — This and the following were exhibited by Mr
James, gardener to Mrs Watson, Redlees, Isleworth, and occasioned some
discussion as to the advisability of certificating varieties of Cineraria, but the
majority were in favour of doing so. The variety named above had handsome
symmetrical flowerheads about 1^ inch in diameter, and in colour a remark-
ably rich purplish crimson self.

Cineraria Master Coloin (James). — Also of excellent form and substance;
the colour being a warm shade of purj)le with a narrow clearly defined ring
of white near the centre.

Hamamclis virginica var. arhorea (Veitch). — A peculiar Chimonanthus-like
plant, with dense clusters of small flowers clothing the leafless branches. The
flowers are small individually, but collectively they produced a rather pretty

ect owing to each having four long narrow petals and the same nximber of
short reddish sepals. — Journal of Horticulture.

HORTICUIiTURAL EXHIBITIONS.

" Grand " Horticultural Exhibitions are likely to be more than usually plen-
tiful this autumn. Foremost and most important— judging from the very
liberal schedule of prizes — is that to be held under the auspices of the Man-
chester Botanical Society, in its gardens at Old Trafford, on the 24th, 25th,
26th, and 27th of August, and it is to be an International affair. Liberal

i88i.] NOTICE OF BOOK. 135

prizes are offered ; and, under the usual good direction of Mr Bruce Findlay,
this is sure to be a great gathering of horticultural produce, appliances, and
horticulturists from all quarters. Among the chief prizes for fruits are —
£45 in three prizes for fifteen kinds of fruit, £30 for twelve kinds, £20 for
nine kinds, and £15 for six kinds ; £25 in three prizes for ten varieties of
Grapes. The General Horticultural Company, Limited (John Wills), offers
first and second prizes of £30 and £20 for six kinds of Grapes, two bunches of
each ; and for twelve kinds of fruit, the same as for the Grapes. If these
prizes do not bring out a splendid display of choice fruits, they ought to do
so. £45 is offered in three prizes for twenty miscellaneous plants (open). To
amateurs, £16 for eight Orchids, and the same amount to nurserymen in three
prizes. The vegetable section is dealt with in an equally liberal manner, and
so are cut - flowers. There is also a section for foreigners, and one for
cottagers. Altogether it is a liberal and well-got-up schedule. One unfortu-
nate mistake has eluded the notice of Mr Bruce Findlay when correcting
proofs at p. 22 — John Wills, Limited. The prize is said to be " for the best
collection of twelve kinds of fruit, including two Pines, two kinds of Grapes,
two Melons, and six other kinds of GrajKs.^^ The last word Grapes should no
doubt be fruits.

The Dundee Horticultural Society is to hold " a grand Floral Fete" on the
1st, 2d, and 3d September. Place of exhibition to be afterwards announced.

The South of Scotland Horticultural Society is to hold "a grand Autumn
Show on the 2d and 3d September, in the Barrack Square, Dumfries." The
schedules of prizes offered by these two societies are very comprehensive, and
encouraging to competitors ; and it is to be hoped the efforts of all these
societies will be successful.

The Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society, by way of husbanding its
resources for a splendid effort in 1882, has dropped the Summer Shows out
of the programme for this and next years.

NOTICE OF BOOK.

The Tomato, with Cultural Directions for maintaining a Continuous
Supply : including also Chapters for Amateurs and the Growers of
Fruit for the Markets, an Estimate of Varieties, and a Complete List
of useful Pteceipts. By William Iggulden, Gardener to the Plight Hon.
the Earl of Cork and Orrery, Journal of Horticulture Office, 171 Fleet
Street, London.

The above title is a comprehensive statement of the contents of this little
work on a now very popular product of gardens. We have seldom or never
read a similar work with more satisfaction and approval. As is well known,
the writer has been a most successful grower of the Tomato at all seasons of
the year, as well as one of the most successful exhibitors of them. Like tverj -
thing that comes from Mr Iggulden's pen, it is thoroughly practical, and can-
not fail to be a most complete guide to those who have not had much experi-
ence of keeping up a continuous supply of ripe Tomatoes. We give the fol-
lowing extract on " Successional Crops " as a sample of this useful treatise : —

" Those who are enabled to grow their earliest Tomatoes in beds with bottom -
heat are not under the necessity of starting more plants, at all events till
some time later, to grow for successional crops ; but to keep up the supply
where no such accommodation exists, it will be found necessary to sow again

]36 THE GARDENER. [March

early in February. The plants obtained from this sowing, if treated in the
same manner as advised for the earliest crop, would be ready to place into
their fruiting quarters in about seven weeks. With us, some of this batch, as
before stated, are placed in boxes at the coolest end of small span -roofed forc-
ing-houses, and are the first to ripen. Others are placed in similar boxes and
grown under the same treatment at the extreme ends of the earliest vinery and
Peach houses. It must be understood that, although we have grown large
quantities of early fruit simultaneously, our aim is to keep up a moderate and
continuous supply in accordance with the available room. We once grew a
large quantity in various positions, in a newly-j^lanted vinery; and others may
well follow this example without any fear of injuring the Vines. If the pro-
duce is not wanted for home consumption, it will sell well in the London
markets, especially during May and June. In our case we grew a number
of plants singly in 12-inch pots, which were arranged thickly along a strong
and high back shelf, a good distance below the wires stretched across the
rafters; and were therefore suitable, both for training the Tomatoes down
the roof and the Vines up. The former in this position set their crops very"
freely, the consequence of receiving abundance of light and air ; and when
the fruit was ripening, formed a very attractive sight. The pots being ex-
posed to the sun, much water had to be given to the roots — one watering
a-day not always being sufficient ; yet they were no more trouble than are
Kidney Beans and Strawberries when grown in these positions, and are cer-
tainly not so liable to leave a legacy of green-fly, red-spider, or mildew behind
them. In the majority of vineries it would be difficult to train the plants
down the wires ; but in many instances, with a little scheming, they might be
trained along the back wall.

"Another plan adopted by some gardeners, and which I have also tried with
fairly satisfactory results, is to grow a row of plants, either in pots or planted
out at the foot of the back walks of vineries and Peach houses : when in the
latter, the trees are not grown on the back wall. The situation, however,
should the Vines or Peaches overhead be rather thickly trained, is not a
very good one. The Tomatoes do not receive sufficient light in this position,
as a rule; and to obviate this diflBculty somewhat, and also to prevent them,
when planted out, from exhausting the borders, we enclosed a space between
the pathway and the wall, and above the border level, about 18 inches wide
and 3 feet deep, with strong boards. The boards were painted the same colour
as the house ; and the strong upright stakes to which they were nailed being
inside, all unsightliness was avoided. Galvanised wire was stretched across
laths nailed to the wall, and to this the Tomatoes were trained. Nailing the
plants to the wall would of course be objectionable. Stakes would have
answered the purpose ; but the wire, after being fixed, is no further trouble, and
stakes are not always to be had in quantity. The soil employed was princi-
pally obtained from the garden. To every two barrow-loads of this common
garden-soil was added one barrow of turf and manure from an old mushroom-
bed, this mixture being considered quite rich enough for the position. When
grown in this manner, crowding must be avoided, or very great difficulty will
be experienced in setting a crop. The plants should be about 18 inches apart ;
and if well attended to in watering and disbudding, they will continue fruiting
far into the summer — in fact, till those on the walls are, or should be, coming
into use. If extra large fruit are wanted, it is advisable to top the plants, and
also to mulch over the roots with good manure, and give liquid manure fre-
quently.

i88t.] DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. 137

*' I once obtained an extraordinary crop of fruit from a single plant placed
in a large tub at the foot of a flued wall in an early vinery. It was trained
on the ' extension system ' — that is to say, several main branches were laid in,
and wherever there was room a lateral was fruited, each being stopped beyond
the bunch of fruit. This plant eventually covered a high wall, and was taken
down the wires on the roof about 4 feet. "VVe gathered the first fruit from it
only in April, and the last, which formed a good dish at a metropolitan show,
in November. Rich food, in the form of liquid manure and top-dressings, was
frequently given, but we were well repaid for our care. As a rule, I do not
find it advantageous to keep old plants, preferring the extra trouble consequent
upon rearing fresh ones, well knowing that these will give heavier crops of
fine fruit. Old plants are apt to become unsightly, and a small white fly,
Aleyrodes vaporariorum, often takes posses^ sion of them, and is with difficulty
destroyed by fumigation : young vigorous plants are less liable to be infested
with this pest.

" Where the Peach-trees are trained over a circular trellis, and a staging runs
round the front of the house, a few Tomatoes may be grown in pots on the
latter, and either be trained up the rafters or staked uprightly at about 3 feet
apart. No kind of manure, whether in a liquid or solid form, seems to come
amiss to the Tomato, provided it is applied sensibly and moderately. One
thing is certain — some kind of fertiliser must be used when the crops are heavy,
on account of the rapidity with which they exhaust the soil. Those who have
the run of a farm may collect materials for making liquid manure of a power-
ful description. We put about two pecks of sheep droppings, one peck of
chicken dung, one gallon of soot, with a smaller quantity of hot-lime, into
a coarse-textured bag, which is tied up and placed in an eighteen-gallon butt
of soft water. In about a week the liquid manure is fit for use, and one gallon is
found of sufficient strength to require diluting with about three gallons of
water. The butt is kept filled with water, and the manure continues to be
strong for several weeks — much, however, depending upon the quantity daily
used. After a time the bag is pressed whenever the liquid manure is wanted.
" Gruano, applied with caution, proves a powerful invigorator ; but if used to
excess it is very harmful in effect. A smallest-sized flower-potf ul of good guano,
well squeezed with the hand in a ".three-gallon can of water, is a safe quantity
to use. A very powerful manure consists of a mixture of one-third of nitrate of
soda with two-thirds of superphosphate of lime, used as advised in the case of
guano. Clay's Fertiliser, if applied in moderation, is equal in effect to any of
the foregoing, and therefore strongly recommended. All that is necessary is to
sprinkle it lightly over the soil, and water in — about three applications being
sufficient for a crop,"

DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATIOISr.

The ordinary monthly meeting of this Association was held in the Imperial
Hotel, Dundee, on Friday evening, the 4th ult. — the President, Mr D. Day, in
the chair. There was a full attendance of the members. After the usual
preliminary business, Mr George Johnstone, of Glamis Castle Gardens, read a
paper, entitled, "A Few Practical Hints to Young Gardeners." He said that
young gardeners who could do their work well mechanically, and had gained
a good knowledge of the nomenclature of plants, were not to consider them-
selves as finished tradesmen. The gardener required tact and much fore-
thought. He had the seasons to consider, and how and when to do the dif-

133 THE GARDENER. [March

ferent kinds of work so as to give a return at a certain given time. A correct
and methodical note-book ow^ht to be the constant companion of every young
gardener, noting the dates of sowing of the ditlereut kinds of vegetables and
seeds, their produce, and their time of maturity for the kitchen. The same
attention should be paid to both fruits and flowers, so as to insure the required
result at a certain time. While it was not absolutely necessary for the horti-
culturist to be either a chemist or a botanist, a knowledge of these sciences
would be much to his advantage, and he advised every young man to make
himself conversant at least with the rudiments of them. Mr Johnstone con-
cluded by suggesting that the Dundee Horticultural Association should devise
some plan whereby young gardeners could be examined in the various branches
of horticulture, and certiticates granted according to their respective merits.

Mr W. S. Watt, landscape-gardener, Broughty Ferry, followed with his
first paper on "Style in Suburban Landscape-Gardening." Mr Watt said he
had been for upwards of thirty years an anxious student of nature, and he w^s
confessedly au admirer of the picturesque. Under certain circumstances,
however, nature required assistance from art ere she could assume that beauty
of form, harmony of dress, or sweetness of face which captivate and add ad-
ditional charms to the landscape. Mr Watt then briefly described the various
styles carried out in different European countries from the earliest period of
history to the present day. He recognised only three styles as being really
pure and distinct from each other in their details of arrangement. These were
the architectural, as applied to flower-gardens in the vicinity of the mansion ;
the gardenesque, geometric-picturesque, and the purely picturesque, as
adapted to lawns, shrubberies, and parks. The gardenesque was a favourite
style with some; it admitted of pleasing outline in curved walks and boundary-
lines, and in clumps in beds on the lawn. The style was very suitable for
villa grounds of from one to four acres in extent. The geometric-picturesque
style, where it could be carried out in grounds of from four acres and upwards,
he believed to be the perfection of modern English landscape-gardening A
favourable locality admitting of hill and dale, cascades, rivulet, lake, rockery
grottos, &c., would enable the clever landscape-gardener to produce effects at
once diversified and attractive. Although an'admirer of this particular style
he thought that landscape-gardeners should try to produce originality of
designs. He ridiculed attempts to imitate natural scenery on a small scale
when the landscape-gardener should have called to his aid artistic design,
and mentioned that there were no less than thirty-six landscape-gardeners, so
called, in Dundee. He regretted that some aspired to practise the art who
had not learned even its rudiments ; and he condemned the building archi-
tect's interference, as he considered his proper sphere lay in an opposite
direction.

Mr Watt concluded his very able and interesting paper with an appeal to
young gardeners who might desire to make landscape-gardening a branch of
their profession, to begin its study early.

Mr M' Arthur, Kinbrae Gardens, Newport, exhibited splended specimens of
Welch's Giant Brussels Sprouts, Williams's Magnum Bonum and Blood Eed
Onion, which he recommended for their keeping qualities, splendid Leeks, and
six exceedingly handsome fruits of "Warner's King" Apple, grown on a west
wall. The Brussels Sprouts were exceptionally fine, and were pronounced by
he entire meeting to be second to none that had ever come under their notice.

Mr M'Arthur stated he got the seed originally from Messrs Cutbush & Sons,
London, about six years ago, and that he had selected the best stocks for seed

iS8i.]

CALENDAR.

every year since. His practice was to sow in a box early in February in green-
house temperature, and gradually to harden them off for planting in the breaks.
I may say that I saw the several varieties grown in the Chiswick Gardens
last season for trial, and can testify as to its superiority over them. Mr
M'Arthur received the hearty thanks of the meeting for his splended exhibits ;
and after a vote of thanks to the speakers and the chairman, the proceedings
terminated.

THE FROST.

At Elemore Hall, Durham, there were 336° of frost from the 14th to
25th of January. The lowest temperature — 44° below freezing — took
place on the 25th, that being the lowest ever registered at Elemore.

At Brayton Hall, Cumberland, 2° and 4° below zero were registered
on the 14th and 16th of January, and the total frost for the month
was 440^

©aUtttran

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — Presuming that the neces-
sary number of early Queens have
started in due time after they were
subjected to increased temperature at
the roots and in the atmosphere, the
most of them should be nearly done
flowering the first week of this month.
True, the severe weather may have re-
tarded their progress, but at all events
they will soon be ready to push on
rapidly. The night temperature, un-
less during very cold nights, should be
kept as steadily as possible about 70°:
and when shut up with sun - heat in
the afternoon, 85° for a short time, with
a corresponding amount of moisture in
the air, will not be too high. It is of
much importance that the soil be kept
steadily moist — avoiding over-dryness
on the one hand, and a wet, sloppy
condition on the other. The amount
of water required depends very much
on whether the pots are plunged over
hot-air chambers or in beds of leaves
and tan ; in the latter case they do not
require nearly so much water. In
proportion to the amount of fire-heat
required, the atmosphere must be
charged with moisture — never allow-
ing the air to feel dry when the house
is entered. Syringe the plants about
the axils of the leaves on line after-
noons, when the house is shut up, but

do not carry this to excess, or it will
cause a numerous and unnecessary
progeny of young suckers. Use
guano and sheep- dung water alter-
nately when the plants are watered.
Successional fruiting plants intended
j to start soon should now have a rise
I of 5° by night, say 65° to 70°, accord-
' ing to the weather, with a bottom-
heat of 85°. As a rule, these make a
growth before starting and yield the
finest fruit of the season. Probably
the severity of the season may have
prevented many from getting the
earliest batch of succession plants
shifted last month into their fruiting-
pots. No time should now be lost in
getting this done. Plants that are
somewhat later should also be shifted
before the end of the month. If they
show plenty of young healthy roots
among the crocks and round the sides
of the ball, they should not be allowed
to remain unshifted for any length of
time now, or they may start prema-
turely into fruit. We always prefer
to partially shake out all plants when
shifted into their fruiting -pots— pre-
serving the roots as entire as possible.
Firm potting ought always to be
practised in Pine-culture. The soil is
generally full of fibre, and with loose
potting it holds water like a sponge,

140

THE GARDENER.

[March

and admits more air, especially when
it does get dry, and the water and air
rot the tibre much sooner than when
tirmly potted. If the soil is dry, we
ram with a wooden rammer. It is
of importance that the organic matter
in the soil should be as little exhausted
as possible when the strain of fruit-
producing takes place, and this is best
secured by firm potting. At one time
when practising under the clearer sky
of East Lothian, we put early Queens
into 11-incb, and Cayennes and other
strong growers into Ti-inchand 13-inch
pots ; but in a dull moist climate we
would never exceed 10-inch pots for
early Queens, and 11 -inch pots for
Cayennes and others. AVe have
proved these sizes give quite as fine
fruit, and the plants yield more readily
to the application of means for starting
them into fruit. In plunging the plants,
and presuming that full space can be
given them at once, do not place Cay-
ennes and Rothschilds closer than 2 feet
each way : Queens will do at 22 inches.
Nothing is gained by crowding but
drawn and unfruitful plants that never
yield fine fruits. Give them a bottom-
heat of 85°, and a night temperature
of G5°. If the soil be dry at potting time,
and the weather be March-like, water
them in five or six days after they are
potted. Keep the atmosphere moist,
and in very bright days sprinkle the
plants gently at shutting-up time, let-
ting the heat run to 80° for a time.
Do not give much air for a short time,
or until the plants begin to grow, when
it must be gradually increased and reg-
ulated according to the state of the
weather. See former Calendars for dir-
ections about fruits that are ripening.

Vines. — Crops in pots that have
been required to ripen early, may be
pushed forward freely as soon as the
stoning process is complete. Advance
the night temperature to 70° when the
weather is mild; but if the generally
cold east winds of March prevail, and
the days be sunless, it is better to
force more gently, and make up time
afterwards. Take advantage of every
sunny day to shut up early, and hus-
band the sun -heat for the night, so
that the least possible fire-heat may be
required . This rule applies to Vines in
all stages. We consider it much more
preferable to push the Vines on in the
interval between the stoning and the

commencement of the colouring than at
any other stage before or after. Near-
ly all Grapes, and es})ecial]y black
ones, colour better in a moderate tem-
perature, and well shaded with foliage,
than iinder circumstances the reverse
of these. As soon as colouring begins
in very early crops, give air a little
more freely, and gradually decrease
the air moisture, leaving the air on
continuously night and day. A con-
stant watch must be kept over Vines
in pots, to see that they never get a
check for want of water. They should
be nourished by rich top-dressing, and
waterings of guano, soot, and sheep or
deer dung water alternately. Attend
to all Vines in diff"erent stages of
growth, according as they may need
disbudding, stopping, tying dovi'n, or
thinning of bunches and berries. These
operations should always be promptly
attended to; then the energies of the
Vine are not needlessly expended.
Heavy cropping should be avoided as
one of the greatest evils and mistaken
practices of Grape-growing. In the
first place it usually defeats the end
held in view by those who practise it,
for the Grapes are never so large and
good in quality as under moderate
cropping ; and in the next place, the
Vines always succumb to the strain
sooner or later, and oftenest sooner.
It is difficult to give rules for weight
of crops. Vines planted 4 feet apart,
and allowed to carry plenty of foliage,
can carry a much heavier crop with
impunity than Vines at 24 feet. Vines
at the latter distance apart should
never be allowed to carry more than a
pound of fruit to every foot length of
rod. Pay particular attention to in-
side borders of early vineries that have
a good })roportion of roots, and see that
they are never allowed to get dry. On
the other hand, where heavy sprinklings
are given several times daily, take care
that the soil is not kept in a too wet
puddly con dition. This constant heavy
sprinkling is in our opinion an evil prac-
tice that does much harm to the roots
and foliage of Vines, especially if free
ventilation is not attended to. If any
late Grapes are hanging on the Vines
they should now be removed to a dry
room, where, if there be only a few
bunches, they will keep for a time
without being bottled ; but if there be
more than a score of bunches, bottle
them by all means. Now is a good

i88;

CALENDAR.

141

time to plant young Viaes where new !
borders have been prepared for them.
Shake the soil entirely from their roots,
and wash them thoroughly in a pail
of water before planting them. If the
plants have unfortunately been grown
in large pots, in ill-drained, rich, pasty
soil, the roots will be few, long, and
destitute of those short twiggy fibres
which are so desirable. Cut them back
a bit, so that they may send out a batch
of young roots nearer the stem. Spread
the roots carefully out, and cover with
some of the finest soil to the depth of
6 inches. If near to hot-water pipes
mulch them with some horse-drop-
pings to keep the moisture from evap-
orating rapidly. The system of grow-
ing Vines for planting in pots any
larger than 7-inch ones is one of the
greatest mistakes in Vine-culture. As
a rule. Vines in small pots ripen their
wood much better and make more
fibrous roots — and these are very im-
portant conditions to secure. Then
how much easier nurserymen could
pack them, and how much less the
carriage would be. Give us a well-
ripened cane from 4 to 5 feet long, as
thick as an H.B. pencil, and a good
potful of twiggy roots, and any one
may have the large topped and rooted

Peaches. — If the weather be cold
and sunless, force with the same
caution recommended last month. To
force Peaches at a high temperature
from fire-heat is never desirable, far
less so until the stoning period be
passed. Do not exceed 55° to 60°,
according to the state of the weather,
until they begin to swell after stoning.
Then, if the fruit is required as early
as possible, 5° more may be given in
ordinary weather, especially when the
house can be shut up early with sun-
heat. See that the inside borders are
kept properly moist, and syringe the
trees at shutting-up time on fine days.
Keep a sharp look-out for green-fiy,
and fumigate with tobacco when any
sign of it appears. Last month's di-
rections can still be carried out in
succession and late houses. All trees
under glass, where there is unfortun-
ately no fire-heat, should be kept as
open and cool as possible to keep
them back, for if brought on quickly
into bloom, a late frost may do them
serious damage.

Figs. — Increase the night tempera-
ture of the earliest to 60°, with 10°
more by day. Figs like a moist atmo-
sphere, and should be syringed twice
daily when the weather is fine. The
air should never be otherwise than
moist until the crop begins to ripen.
Attend carefully to the matter of
waterlog, especially when the trees
are in pots, or shallow, well-drained
inside borders. To stilfen the young
growths and prevent the leaves from
being thin and tender, give air early
and shut up soon in the afternoon.
At one time we followed the orthodox
practice of stopping the young growths
at the fifth or sixth |)oint for the
second crop. Now we do not stop any
more than is necessary for furnishinij
the trees with wood, and find that 10
or 12 leaves produced 10 or 12 fruits,
just as well as 5 or 6 leaves produced a
like number of Fi^is. Start later trets
for successional crop. The 1st of
March is good time for starting trees
with the view of getting two crops
from them by the end of October.

Melons. — Those planted last month
will now be growing freely. Train
the plants up the wires to within 15
inches of the top of the pit before
stopping them. Water sparingly,
and supply only a moderate amount
of moisture to the air. Range the
night heat to 70°. Give air as soon
as it rises above 80° early in the day,
and shut up early with sun-heat. To
grow melons at this season with much
moisture and little air produces thin
sickly foliage that becomes a prey to
insects, and is easily scorched when
the sun becomes more strong. Plant
out successional crops, and sow more
seed as previously directed, both at
the beginning and end of the month,
according to demand and accommo-
dation.

Cucumbers. — Do not exceed 70° at
night for the present month. Cucum-
bers do with more moisture at the
root and in air than melons, and
should never be allowed to become
dry. If sudden bright sunshine suc-
ceeds a period of dull weather, it may
be necessary to slightly shade the
foliage for a time at mid-day, or the
plants will flag and may get scorched.
Stop the young growths at every joint,
I and thin off all deformed fruit, not

142

THE GARDENER.

[March

letting the plants exhaust themselves
by bearing over-many at a time. Keep
a sharp look-out on thrip and green-
fly, and keep them down by timely
fumigation with tobacco, taking care
that the plants ai'e dry and not subject
to too strong doses of smoke. It is
better to use it moderately on two suc-
cessive nights, than to give one strong
dose. Sow and plant for successional
crops.

Strawberries. — If all has gone on
well these will now be an interesting
crop, and one that will be most ac-
ceptable at dessert as a companion
dish to late Grapes and Pine-apples.
Crops that are swelling off will do
with a night temperature of 60° to
75°. When colouring commences

they should have more air, to give
ilavour. After this season we have
often moved crops out of Pine -pits
into cooler quarters in which to fin-
ish, with much advantage ; and when
required to hang a few days after
being quite ripe, they keep much
better in a cooler and more airy
house. Plants coming into bloom
should have a temperature of 55° to
60° at night — never higher ; lower is
safer than higher. Put succession
batches of plants into Peach-houses
and vineries now being started. Keep
a sharp look-out on red-spider and
green-fly, fumigating and syringing
to keep them in check. Do not,
however, fumigate plants in bloom,
or it will injure them.

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

To have the vegetable garden well
cropped, and to be otherwise credit-
able to cultivators, the work must
now be carried forward in earnest :
every opportunity should be turned to
the best account in bringing forward
arrears. Digging, trenching, and
manuring of the ground, according to
the requirements of the crops which
are to occupy it, must now have
prompt attention. Surfaces may be
broken over finely preparatory for
seeds ; and when ground is fit to be
trodden upon, the drills may be
drawn, and the seeds sown and cov-
ered, using fine soil over the seeds
where laud is heavy and tenacious.
Peas and Beans may be sown and
planted out from frames, boxes, &c.,
on deep rich soil, and covered with
rotten manure and loam. Plenty of
room for the seeds, and the rows stand-
ing wide apart, are matters which will
show themselves to advantage by-
and-by. Sow kinds twice in the
month which are termed second early
in catalogues. Dickson's Favourite
and Champion of England are always
favourites ; but soils change the
character of Peas very much. Stake
Peas when a few inches high. Jer-
usalem Artichokes should now be
lifted, if not done, and the necessary
quantity planted as formerly advised :
single rows wide apart are generally
suitable. Globe Artichokes may be
freed from rough manure, and the

shorter portion forked in and mulch
over the roots. Crowns, if at a
crowded, should be reduced to two or
three ; but the intense frost may have
destroyed many, and it may be ne-
cessary to procure young stock by
sowing seed, — a system we have
found as easy as any other in get-
ting up plants. Asparagus may be
sown on well-trenched, richly man-
ured soil, in rows of 1^ or 2 feet
apart. Large Asparagus is produced
by having the plants wiae apart
on deep rich soil, and abundance
of liquid manure during the growing
season. If small-growing crops are
not to be grown on the surface, a
sprinkling of salt may be scattered
over, which will kill weeds and
nourish the plants. A pinch of Beet
for an early crop maybe sown towards
the end of month. Cauliflower may
be sown twice during the month.
Plants potted or growing in frames
may be planted in rich well sheltered
ground. If they are planted between
ridges they may be protected there :
evergreen branches stuck among them
are of service as protection. Those
under hand-lights and protectors may
be benefited by stirring the soil and
mulching with rotten manure. Cab-
bage, Savoys, Kales of sorts, Brus-
sels Sprouts, and other green crops,
may be sown early in the month for
first crops. Broccoli of the early
classes may be sown towards the end of

IbJil.

NOTICES TO CORRESPONDENTS.

143

the month. Lettuce and Radishes may-
be sown between Potatoes or other
crops, — the former for transplanting,
and the latter to be off before the
Potatoes shade them. Divide and
plant Rhubarb : rich well-drained soil
suits Rhubarb. Seed may be sown to
raise stock. The main crops of Potatoes
may be planted forthwith. Opinions
as to time of planting vary widely.
Some maintain early in March is best,
others prefer the middle of April,
We consider it the right time between
those periods, when the soil is dry and
warmed by sun-heat. Parsnips, like
Onions, may be sown any time from
end of February to beginning of April;
the former on deep soil free from rank
manure, and the latter on very strong
rich soil. Parsley may be sown on
early borders ; and the plants which
have been raised in pots, &c., and
are ready to turn out, should get
attention as early as possible. Suc-
cessions of Spinach may be sown
between bushes, Peas, or any other
crops. Turnips cannot be sown with
safety for main crops, but small
patches may be sown every week on
warm borders. Gentle hotbeds may
bring them to a useful size, but very
early sowings soon run to seed. The
planting of Cabbage from store-beds
may be done as early as ground is fit
to receive them. Though many crops
have suifered from frost during the past
winter — winter and early spring Broc-
colis especially — the plots of young
Cabbage are left in capital condi-
tion. Rosette Colew^orts, which we
were cutting from before frost came,
are, with few exceptions, uninjured by
frost, and quite tender and useful for
present use. The forcing of vege-
tables is at this season a simple mat-
ter, but to neglect them causes a gap
in the supplies: better to have some
to spare than too few.

Asparagus (whether by lifting the

roots or by glass and manure in the
beds) should have constant additions
made to the stock being forced. The
demand can alone regulate the supply.
A lightful started every week will
give a moderate supply. It is seldom,
when other things are plentiful, that
it is relished every day. Give Pota-
toes in frames and pits plenty of air
and light ; only keep frost and cut-
ting winds from them. When they
are ripe in pots, they may be placed
anywhere in safety from frost and
wet till they are used. To have the
use of pots and frames, we have often
covered the tubers with dry sand or
soil till they were used up. Orchard-
houses are of much value for storing
such things. More Celery may be
sown in gentle warmth. Avoid let-
ting the young seedlings suffer from
drought and want of air. French
Beans may be planted in pots or pits.
The latter plan gives the best produce
with least labour. Thin Carrots in
frames, and allow neither them nor
forced Radishes to suffer from want
of moisture. We often allow warm
showers to give them their supply of
moisture. Capsicums may be potted
off and grown on in heat, with plenty
of light and air when suitable for
the latter. Ridge Cucumbers may be
sown if they are to have glass pro-
tection till danger from frost is past ;
but towards the end of the month, or
in April, is early enough for most
purposes. Tomatoes should be treated
with care till they are ready to plant
out : seed may be sown for succession.
Those under glass should not be
shaded or cooled unnecessarily. Sea-
kale may be covered in the ground to
blanch it : fine soil, leaf-mould, or
sand answers for blanching. If there
is not room for Mushrooms in sheds,
&c. , ridges may be formed and spawned
outside.

M. T.

_ -^-JK *Sf ^i^-*-e—

^aticcs la Cnrr^sponbcnts.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in the 'Gardener' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,

144 THE GARDENER. [March i88i.

be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We
decline noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and
address of writer.

E. L. S. — Berberis aquifolium, Daphne laureola, Common Laurel, Cotone-
aster micropbylla, Gaultheria shallon, Euonymus, Box, Ivy, Periwinkle,
Privet, Laurustinus. These will suit your purpose unless the shade be very
dense.

J, RussEL. — Your question arrived too late for a reply in February, and we
wrote to you at the address you gave, but the letter was returned from dead-
letber office. Keep your grafts back in a cool place, and graft as you propose,
after the shoots have broken into leaf in the stock — not before, or the stocks
will bleed. Another method is " bottle-grafting," which is to put the end of
the scion or graft in a bottle of water and spHce it to the stock. If you have
young plants, the most perfect union is formed when green wood is spliced to
green wood.

A. Y. S. — The best Odontoglossums for cut-flowers are 0. Alexandria, 0.
cirrosum, 0. pescatorei, O. nebulosum, 0. pulchellum. They thrive in a
temperature slightly above that of an ordinary greenhouse.

Joseph Allan, Tasmania.— Y^'our specimens arrived all broken to pieces,
and we cannot recognise them.

XoviCE.— Cut away entirely the last year's crop of fronds, and then the
young ones, now springing, will get more light and air and come away stronger.
Shift into larger pots as soon as the young fronds are a few inches high, but
do not disturb the roots over much. For soil, take loam and leaf-mould in
equal parts, with a little sand.

T. W. S. — Populus Candicans, the grey or common white Poplar. Wil-
liam's book on Ferns will probably suit your purpose.

F. F, — Get some common blotting-paper and put the fronds between the
leaves, allowing two leaves to be between each specimen. Then place the
paper between two strong pieces of smooth board and put some weight on
the top. Look at and turn the specimens every second day — and iron the
paper to dry it — until the specimens are dry and stiff. In order to preserve
the specimens get a herbarium book.

G. R. — We cannot throw any light on the case of your Camellia if there
has not been any budding or grafting.

— ■»-«- S'^'^2<r-Oe —

THE

GARDENER

APRIL i88i.

SOME NOTES.

NE of the first things that occurs to a would-be Lily-grower
is how and where to procure bulbs. If cost is no object,
he has only to write out an order for large sound bulbs
from any of the numerous catalogues or advertisements
at hand. In most cases this simple plan succeeds, so far
as the getting of good bulbs goes ; but if he who plants Lilies, like
the wise builder of houses, first sits down and considers the cost,
he will — he will do well ! In the beautiful coloured plate of
Lilies presented to the readers of the ' Gardeners' Chronicle ' some
time ago, a lovely long-tubed Lily is figured. Its name is L. neilgher-
rense. It is barely hardy, but may be started in a pot and planted out
in May or June, and is so lovely that it ought to be grown by the
dozen in all good gardens. If you write an order for a dozen bulbs
at 15s. each, it only comes to £9 ; but if you want really good strong
bulbs, you pay a guinea each for them, or a trifle of a guinea or so
more if the very finest bulbs are desired. I believe the best bulbs are
preferable — sure to bloom, you know.

Lilium Wallichianum is another nice kind, rather tender and difii-
cult to grow, as a rule. You plant it in a pot very carefully : some-
times it comes up, sometimes not. The price is pretty much what
you like, up to three guineas a bulb. Nothing less than 15s. will get
you a decent bulb of this kind ; and if you want to make quite sure of
ever seeing it in bloom, pay £20 to £36 for a dozen bulbs, and you
may be gratified. Nothing like a good start in plant-growing : order
a dozen bulbs at once.

14G THE GARDENER. [April

In the 'Garden' of February 12th of the current year there is a
lovely plate of a lovely Indian Lily — L. j^olyphylluni. It is moderately
hardy on warm weU-drained soils, but it is more safe to grow it in
pots. You can get a dozen strong-tiowering bulbs of it for £50, or
perhaps for a little less. It is a little expensive, perhaps, but it is a
pretty thing — very nearly a hardy flower, in fact, so of course it is valu-
able. Bedding-plants are vulgar. Orchids are dear. " Consider the
Lilies," my friend :

CYPPwIPEDIUM MAULEI.

This is one of the most welcome of all the kinds known, and in
growth and flower is quite distinct from C. insigne, of which it is un-
doubtedly one of the very best forms. The leaves are straight and
shapely, and the flower has a more finished appearance, the upper
sepal being nearly all white, blotched with lilac purple. Of the four
or five varieties of Cypripedium insigne which I have, this is by far
the most welcome and efi'ective, and a flower of it which has been
fully expanded for six weeks is still quite fresh.

A friend who was fortunate in obtaining a good importation of Or-
chids from Assam sent me a batch of them, and amongst the number
which have bloomed is a variety I never saw before. In growth it re-
sembles Maulei, but it is more robust : there is a good deal of pure
white on the top sepal, and the spots or blotches are nearly black, as in
C. BoxallL I am very pleased with it, as a most interesting variety
of the free-blooming and useful winter-blooming C. insigne.

HAEDY FLO WEES.

I am glad to see these shooting up out of the ground in the beds
nd borders everywhere. Bulbs are especially robust, as indeed is the
rule after a sharp winter with much snow. The new seedling kinds of
Xarcissus sent me by Mr Peter Barr are spearing upwards rapidly after
the rain. This is their second season here, and so we anticipate a
great show of them. The large-flowered X. Emperor and Empress,
planted last season in a 4-feet-deep border of loam and leaf-mould, have
both pushed up leaves like those of Amaryllis in size ; and the great
golden-chaliced X. maximus is also very robust, and is already show-
ing its buds. When fully developed, this kind under good culture at-
tains a height of from 2 to 3 feet, each individual flower being nearly
t) inches across. For contrast with these we have the tiny little N.
minor, of which " wee mite " old Parkinson speaks lovingly in his
' Paradisus ' of nearly two centuries and a half ago.

Hellebores of sorts are the most showy of the present hardy or
open-air flowers. Snowdrops and Crocuses are enlivening nooks and
comers or walk -margins, and the Winter Aconite opens its golden
bosses to the sun. These are the vedettes of a glorious host which
the golden trumpets of the Daffodils will usher in. Golden Jasmine
and Chimonanthus still "hang their banners on the outer walls," and

i88i.] SOME NOTES. U7

of hardy blossoms of promise and great beauty the cry is " still they
come ! '*

CAPE PONDWEED.

Aponogeton distachyon is not uncommon in good gardens as a hardy
aquatic plant. We force a dozen or two of its Artichoke-like tubers
every winter, and find them a great addition to the winter blossoms of
the intermediate bouse or conservatory. Pans of earthenware 2 feet in
diameter and 8 inches in depth hold three tubers. We plant in sound
lumpy loam surfaced with sand. A layer of loam 3 inches thick,
covered with half an inch of sand after the tubers are planted, is ample,
after which fill up with clean water to the rim, and keep it fresh by
raining a potf ul of water over the pan every morning. We plant early
in November, and have plenty of flower-spikes from Christmas until
April. In May we place the pans under a warm south wall, emptying
out the water, and here, exposed to air and sunshine, the earth is baked
dry. The tubers thus are induced to rest from May until planting-time,
and start into growth as readily as Roman Hyacinths. Having a quan-
tity of small tubers the size of Walnuts, we this season tried some of
them in 6-inch pots, three tubers in each. The pots were placed in
saucers, and the loam was kept saturated by watering overhead ; thus
treated in a temperature of 45° to 65°, they have flowered well, with
from seven to fifteen spikes fully expanded at once. For permanent
results and large well - developed spikes for cutting, however, pan-
culture in water is best ; and to all who have to provide choice and
uncommon flowers for finger-glasses or vases in the drawing-room dur-
ing the winter months, I can confidently recommend this charming
water-weed. The drying-off or baking process is, however, very, essen-
tial, in order to obtain a good simultaneous development or " crop " of
spikes and fresh green leaves at the desired season.

POOT-CUTTTXGS.

Cuttings of the root often give better results than other means of
propagation. Three plants just occur to me that may readily be
increased by cuttings oft' their thick fleshy roots. Their names are
Senecio pulcher, Stokesia cyanea, and lastly, that beautiful fair maid
of autumn. Anemone japonica alba. The mode to follow is to dig
up the roots from November to February, cut them into li inch
lengths, and insert them in pans of sandy earth, which may be placed
near the light on a shelf in a cool house. Nearly all rare Anemones
and many other plants succeed well propagated in this way. When
leafy growth and roots are produced, pot off in May, and place in a
close frame for a few days ; and finally, give air on fine days, and plant
out in the end of June, or earlier. In this way it is easy to keep up a
stock of sturdy, young, free-blooming plants for cut-bloom, or for bor-
der or conservatory decoration.

148 THE GARDENER. [April

HINTS ON ORCHIDS.

A friend deeply interested in Orchids tells me that he finds cocoa-
nut fibre and charcoal the simplest and best compost for all such
Orchids as Cypripediums, Dendrobiums such as D. nobile, D. hetero-
carpum, D. macrophyllum, and others, and even for Vandas, brides,
and Angrcecums. He is particular to say that the pure coir fibre is
the thing he employs, and not the refuse. One great advantage
is the cleanliness and rapidity with which Orchids may be potted on
this plan. The fibre and nodules of charcoal are surfaced with fresh
sphagnum. Perfect drainage is insured. The roots fasten themselves
on the fibre greedily, and retain their life and freshness much longer
than in peat. One part of his secret remains to be told. When
the hungry roots have filled the pot, they are fed with a solution of
peat made by washing lumps of good peat in a tub of rain-water
until all except the fibre is held in solution by the water. This is
strained previous to use, and allowed to settle until it is clear. To
this mixture, and a modicum of soot washed from the roof, he attri-
butes his success in growing and flowering many Orchids with which
he used to fail under a peat-compost regime. For such Orchids as
grow best upon blocks he has another plan : not only are they dipped
in the solution of peat, but when wet, finely powdered peat is gently
shaken over their aerial roots. I must say I have been agreeably
astonished at the results of a two years' trial of Orchid-growing under
this novel regime, and have much pleasure in here putting my friend's
practice on record for the information of all whom it may concern.

A NEW PLANT.

Perhaps not really new — certainly not to botanists — but assuredly
so to most gardens, is Senecio cruentus of De Candolle, a stately
greenhouse composite of Cineraria-like habit, sent to me by Mr Smith,
manager of Messrs Roger, M'Clelland, & Co.'s nurseries at Newry,
Ireland, who raised it from imported seeds received by him under the
name of Doronicum papyraceum. It is a charming plant of robust
habit, and a most profuse bloomer, each branched stem being sur-
mounted by clusters of flowers each individually as large as a sixpence,
having a deep purple disc and delicate lilac ray florets. Although
somewhat resembling a stately Cineraria in fort and flower, this plant
has an advantage which many cultivators will appreciate. Seedlings
raised in the spring in gentle heat may be pricked into small pots,
planted out in June, and finally be dug up and repotted for blooming
in the conservatory during January and February. Either for decora-
tion, or for the supply of cut-flowers at this season, it will be both use-
ful and ornamental.

EUPATORIUMS.

Eupatorium riparium is a good early spring-blooming plant. E.
glaucophyllum is also most useful, but the best and most generally

i88i.] ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 149

effective of all the kinds is E. grandifiorum, a robust large-leaved
species, which, if struck from cuttings early, and planted out in a
sunny border in June, will now give plants 2 feet high, and as much
in diameter, its slightly drooping branches being clothed with snowy
clusters of flowers. We used to plunge these plants, Solanums, Mar-
guerites, and Salvias, out in their pots, but now find planting out
cuttings a better plan. Towards the end of September we cut round
each plant pretty closely with a draining-tool to form a ball ; afterwards,
if the weather is hot and dry, we water freely, and in a few days new
roots begin to appear around the ball. The plants are then lifted and
potted up for the conservatory, and the results are most satisfactory
always. F. W. B.

ASPARAGUS CULTURE.

No vegetable cultivated in our gardens is more valued than Asparagus.
It may not be found in many small gardens, but it is quite indispensable
in every garden of any importance. Its successful culture is not a recent-
ly acquired accomplishment. Probably many of your readers may think
in this respect we are going back rather than forward; as many Aspar-
agus beds might have been found twenty years ago that would equal
any to be seen at the present time, if the latter are not decidedly in-
ferior to the former. If such is the case, there are no good reasons why
it should be so, as our appliances in every shape, including tools, man-
ures, and knowledge, are all supposed to be improved ; but probably
less attention is paid now to making the beds and preparing the ground
than many old hands were in the habit of devoting to this part of its
culture. No plants are easier raised from seed than Asparagus, and
it will grow readily on any good piece of soil which has been merely
stirred and manured on the surface ; but its progress here will not be
lasting, and after a year or two the crop will gradually dwindle away,
until it is not worth the ground it stands on. Roots which we have
seen bearing well when about twenty years old, and that on the same
piece of ground on which they were first planted, had the ground thor-
oughly prepared for their reception at first ; and this must still be the
case if good and lasting results are desired. Although Asparagus is
often thought to be particular as to soil, it really is not; but whether the
soil be heavy or light it should be well prepared, and success in most
cases is sure to follow. We have had quantities of old sand carted to
make " natural " Asparagus beds, and devoted a good deal of attention
to their formation too ; but the result was no better from this than we
had from others planted in ordinary garden-soil well tilled. A very
wet place or soil for the bed or plantation must be avoided, but any
ordinary dry land may be selected ; and the soil should not be less than
2 feet deep — if it is 3 all the better ; and in beginning to make it
ready for a permanent Asparagus plantation, it should be trenched

150 THE GARDENER. [April

down to the first of these depths, and the second if possible. If the
subsoil is very hard, keep it in the bottom, only loosen it well up, and
the worse it is, mix the more old vegetable refuse with it. If good
manure can be put in at the same time it will not be lost.

After trenching the required space over in this way, a coating of
good manure should be placed all over the surface and dug in deeply,
and a good sprinkling of salt may be thrown over it previous to bury- -
ing it. This will help to clear the soil of insects, and nourish the young
plants as well; but more about salt by-and-by. The best of all ways to
propagate Asparagus is from seed, and the proper time to sow it is early
in April. Every year we sow a small bed of seed at this time, and we have
always a quantity of young plants in hand ready for any purpose
if wanted. The seed is sown in drills about a foot apart ; only a
small quantity of soil is placed over the seed, and it never fails to grow.
During the summer a few of the plants may be drawn out if they are
very close together ; but with 2 or 3 inches between them they de-
velop nice little crowns the first season, and the shoots run up 2 feet
or more. The hoe is run between to keep weeds down, and when the
stems have withered in autumn, they are cut over and a slight cover-
ing of light manure placed over the crowns. Like this they remain
until March, when the manure is taken away, and the young plants
soon afterwards begin to push up fresh shoots. It is just when these
are seen peeping through the surface of the soil that the roots may be
transplanted with the greatest success. So that, besides being the best
time to sow the seed, early in April is also the best time to plant.
Where the roots have only to be taken from one part of the garden to
another, we would make sure that growth had begun before shifting ;
but were we buying in roots from a nursery, and they had to come a
considerable distance, we would try and get them about the end of
March, or just before growth was fairly started. They would get
little or no check then — a thing at all times to be avoided, as
Asparagus roots do not bear being much dried up. For this reason we
would recommend every one to raise their own plants from seed, when
they can be transplanted on a suitable day, and in the shortest time.
Following this plan, the seed would be sown twelve months before it
is necessary to have the permanent bed ready ; but the ground may
be trenched some weeks before planting, and when the time comes
for this operation, it will only have to be decided which way to plant.
Two ways may be chosen — either make the ground into beds, or plant
in rows without forming a bed of any kind ; of the two ways, we de-
cidedly prefer the latter. It is much the more economical for space,
and gives the finest produce. In fact, we like the row planting plan
so well that nothing will be said about the bed system, as we have
given it up, and do not intend taking to it again. I believe the
greatest of our authorities on Asparagus call our plan of planting the
" improved one," and it is so. In making the rows, the plants should

i88i.] ASPARAGUS CULTURE. 151

stand 2 feet apart each way. Many add a foot more to this, but we
would only advise this distance where ground was plentiful. The
wider the plants stand, the finer does the produce generally become ;
but fairly good produce, which need be despised by no one, may be
had from plants at 24 inches and 30 inches apart. The soil having
been previously well prepared, no great digging need take place at
planting time. On the site of each plant, a patch of soil about 1 foot
square, and three inches deep, should be taken out with the spade.
The roots should then be placed singly in these with all their strong
fibres spread out, putting the soil gently back over them again, and
finishing up with treading firmly all around the crown, but not on
the top of it. Row after row may be put in like this, and the soil
levelled down after all has been finished. The young growths will
soon show where the rows are ; but as many may not be able to afford
so much ground to remain empty between them, a single row of
Spinach, Lettuce, or any close-growing crop may be run between each
row of Asparagus. This may be done for two or three years after
planting, and then it is better to leave the Asparagus in full possession
of the ground. For some time after planting, the roots will require
no more attention ; but as soon as weeds appear they must be destroyed
with the hoe, and frequent hoeings throughout the season will keep the
ground clean and open. Somehow or other Asparagus beds or plan-
tations are always inclined to become very dirty and weedy ; it adds
much to the wellbeing of the plant, therefore, if the weeds are never
allowed to make any headway. As the situation of the Asparagus
plantation should always be open, the young stems the first and
second years may probably be blown over : when they are seen to
go in this way, a stake about 2 feet high should be put to each, and
one or two ties will keep them secure. Each season as the canes
ripen and wither they should be cut over. A small handful of salt
shaken round each plant, and then a light covering of manure, should
be placed over all. About the end of March, when the heads are
beginning to push up, the manure may either be cleared off or left on.
We generally leave it on, and another handful of salt is thrown over
each plant as growth is commencing. The same dressing may be
given them when cutting the produce ceases. No manure is better
than salt for Asparagus, and the applications of it we have named,
and the covering of manure given in autumn, will keep any plantation
in good bearing condition for many years. We have cut heads from
Asparagus when the roots were only two years old, had good stems
from it at three years, and a full crop the fourth season. When to
cease cutting should be regulated by situation and climate. In late
sunless districts, late cutting may prevent the crowns from developing
fully and maturing thoroughly in autumn, and this oft repeated will
soon cause degeneracy. Here we usually do not cut long after the
Peas come in, which is early in June. With regard to forcing Aspara-

152 THE GARDENER. [April

gus, little need be said at the present time ; but by way of preparing
for this, I may say that well-grown roots will always yield freely
to forcing from the end of October onward. J. Mum.

M ARC AM.

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

NO. III. — ERIOSTEMONS.

A GENUS of evergreen dwarf shrubs, natives of Australia, producing
their flowers in great profusion in this country during the spring and
summer months. All the species in cultivation are of a free and com-
pact habit of growth, and under good management the plants retain a
neat shape, and continue in vigorous health for several years. The
flowers of all the species that I am acquainted with are white or
pinkish-white in colour, and spring from the axils of the leaves on the
previous year's growth. The individual flowers are not large, but the
profuse manner in which they are produced on healthy plants com-
pensates for their want of size individually, and renders the plants when
in bloom objects of much beauty. The flowering season of the various
species extends from February to September ; and plants of particular
species keep up a constant succession of flowers for at least two months
from the time the first blooms expand on the plants.

Amongst the first to open their flowers in early spring are E. scaber
and E. pulchellus. Both these species are extremely free-flowering.
E. cuspidatus is the latest to flower. As a rule, this species does not
commence flowering before the end of April or beginning of May. It
and E. buxifolius are of a more vigorous habit of growth than most of
the other species, hence they are employed as stocks on which to graft
the less vigorous kinds.

As plants for greenhouse and conservatory decoration during spring
and early summer, Eriostemons are deserving of all the attention that
can be given them, and when large enough, and in good condition,
they are amongst the best of exhibition plants. Their symmetrical
style of growth and profuse flowering qualities, combined with the
length of time the flowers retain their freshness and beauty on the
plants, render them highly suitable subjects for the purpose of the
plant - exhibitor. Like some other genera of New Holland plants,
Eriostemons have been partially neglected in recent years, both for the
purpose of home-decoration, and as exhibition plants. I am of opinion,
however, that at present a desire is becoming prevalent amongst gar-
deners generally, to give more attention to the culture of the class of
plants indicated than they have been doing for several years past ; and
the desire is in the right direction, and should be encouraged.

The quickest, and, all things considered, the cheapest way to get
a stock of the plants nnder consideration, is to procure them from a
nursery. Nice little healthy plants, in a flowering state, can be pur-

i88i.] GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 153

chased for about 5s. each. When they arrive from the nursery they
should be in a healthy condition — if not, the purchaser should return
them at once. The reason why I advise this is, that these plants,
when through any cause they get into an unhealthy state, seldom
become healthy again ; and therefore healthy plants only should be
selected to start with.

The compost which I have found Eriostemons to thrive best in con-
sists of sandy loam, and bits, about the size of large peas, of broken
sandstone, in the proportion of three parts in bulk of the former to
one part of the latter. It is very necessary to supply them with ample
drainage at the roots. It matters not how careful the cultivator may
be in attending to their wants in other ways, if he neglects to provide
a ready exit for superabundant water from the roots of the plants, the
result in the end will be disappointing to him.

If the drainage keep in good order, the plants will not require re-
potting oftener than once in two years, and the time to do so is soon
after they cease flowering. When they are being repotted, the fresh
compost should be made firm about the balls containing the roots,
and the latter disturbed as little as possible during the process.
After being repotted, they should be placed where they can be
shaded from direct sunshine, and where they will not be subjected
to draughts of dry air for a week or two. A cold pit or frame is a suit-
able place for them at this time; and indeed a structure of this kind
is as good a place as any in which to grow these plants during the
summer months. The principal things to be attended to while they
are in the cold pit or frame are, to see that they are supplied with
water at the roots on all occasions when it is necessary, and that, after
the first two weeks, a supply of fresh air is continually admitted to the
structure. About the end of September the plants should be removed
from the frame or pit to the greenhouse, and placed in as airy a posi-
tion and as near to the glass as circumstances will admit of. During the
winter season the cultivator must be careful in the matter of applying
water to the roots, as an over-supply is fatal to the health of these
plants : on the other hand, the soil about their roots must not be
allowed to become dust-dry. The plants should therefore be care-
fully examined at short intervals, and the condition of the soil at the
time, as regards moisture, should determine whether water at the roots
is required or not. Of course the decision in this matter rests with
the cultivator ; and the more correct his conclusions are on this point,
the more success will attend his efi'orts in the culture of these and
other plants under his care.

In the matter of staking and training, Eriostemons require little
labour. A central stake to each plant is generally all that is needed.
In some instances it may be desirable to employ more than one stake —
the fewer, however, the better ; and whatever number is used, they
should be arranged so that they will be as little seen as possible.

154 THE GARDENER. [April

As regards insects, Eriostemons are not exempt from them. Green-
fly, thrips, and brown and white scale will attack these plants. The two
first are not difficult to keep in subjection, as strong fumes of tobacco
kills them ; and as the plants are not easily injured by tobacco-
fumes, the latter can be made strong enough to vanquish the enemy.
The scale is not so easily got rid of if it once gets thoroughly estab-
lished on large plants. With the aid of parafHn-oil, however, mixed
with water, in the proportion of a wine-glassful of the former to a
gallon of the latter, scale can be prevented from injuriously affecting
the plants. The best time to apply paraffin-oil as an insecticide to
all plants is when they are in the least active state of growth. If I
am not mistaken, it was the editor of this journal who first brought
paraf!in-oil as an insecticide under public notice, and since then I have
been using it as such, I find, however, that much caution is required
in applying it to all plants, and especially to soft-wooded subjects, when
in a growing condition.

According to Mr Dewar's remarks on paraffin-oil as an insecticide,
in the February issue of the ' Gardener,' he has had much success with
it as a destroyer of mealy-bug, and I have found it of great service in
the same direction ; but I cannot say that our " plants of Ixoras,
Grotons, Gardenias, Hoyas, and others, have been thoroughly divested
of the enemy by this means." And I am of opinion, that nothing short
of " utter destruction of the plants " would entirely rid large plants of
Gardenias and Ixoras of mealy-bug, when it has got thoroughly
established on the plants. T. Hammond.

ANNUALS.

There is one feature of present-day flower-gardening which we are not
so thankful for as we ought to be, and that is, that there is no necessity
for any one to attempt to follow the style of his neighbour, as he was
obliged to do a dozen or twenty years ago, at the risk of being set
down as altogether behind the times if he failed to do so. Now-
adays, any one who has a liking for strong colours can satiate his
appetite for these ; or, if bedding in greys and greens is his penchant,
he can satisfy his mental liking for these. He can go in for beds of
Cannas, Castor-oil plants, Wigandias, and other sub-tropical subjects ;
or he may more cheaply get fine-foliage effect by planting Rhubarb
and Globe Artichokes. He may pin his gardening creed to Daff'odils
and "fair Lilies," or he may broaden the borders of his likings by
taking in one and all of these ; and even then he may with some ad-
vantage add to the number of his styles of flower-gardening by adding
the very easiest of flowers to cultivate — Annuals — without in any de-
gree violating public taste. Now and again we come across a bed or two
of common hardy Annuals in conjunction with other flowering plants j

i88i.] ANNUALS. 155

and some of them have long been admitted and recognised as standard
bedding-plants ; but the list may be largely increased, even at the
present day, when so many fresh flowers have been added to our
gardens. There are instances where bedding is entirely carried out
with Annuals; but these cases are of limited number and not gener-
ally known, though those who have seen such gardens at the height
of their beauty agree in estimating their effect as bedders. But
setting aside the suitability of many Annuals for effect in masses, a
selection of good sorts should be a feature in every well-stored garden.
Their cultivation is of the simplest. Half-hardy Annuals, also, are amen-
able to a much simpler mode of cultivation than is commonly practised.
The following list of hardy and half-hardy Annuals, all of which may
be sown any time during the first half of the present month, is made
up of sorts which are certain to please when properly managed. The
under-named form the selection of hardy Annuals : Double Dwarf
Scabious, Collinsia bicolor, Clarkia integripetala limbata, Clintonia
elegans. Convolvulus minor (dark-purple var.), Delphinium cardio-
petulum, Gilia tricolor, Godetia, Lady Albemarle, Leptosiphon roseus,
Limnanthus Douglasi, Linum grandiflorum rubrum, Love-lies-bleeding,
Dwarf Blue Lupine, Mignonette, Nasturtium Kuby King, Nemophila
insignis, Double White Pyrethrum, Saponaria calabrica and white
variety. Blue Stonecrop, Yenus's Looking-glass, Oxalis tropseoloides,
Sweet Peas, and Viscaria cardinalis. If the following conditions are
followed out, these will not cease flowering until the approach of
winter stops them. They require, as a primary necessity, a deeply-
worked and rich soil : though Annuals are short-lived, they require
high living for that short period to secure continued success till the
last. Thin sowing is another item of importance, with small seeds
especially — the percentage of seeds sown over what is necessary is
something enormous. Next to a rich soil, room for the plants to
grow is of most importance ; and if a swarm of seedlings are allowed
to fight out amongst themselves the battle of the fittest, all preparation
of the soil will have been thrown away. This applies to all the plants
named — Sweet Peas with the rest. Mignonette is a common instance of
the evil effects of thick sowing. In such circumstances wiry, little, single-
stemmed plants are produced, which flower and ripen their tiny crop
of seed as if they were in a hurry to get the business done, and then
the Mignonette-bed is a blank, or worse than a blank, for the remainder
of the season. But in rich soil and a thinly-seeded bed, plants 18
inches to 2 feet through will be produced before they have stopped
growing, and very little urgency shown as to the production of a crop
or seed. This tendency of Annuals to run to seed makes it a necessity,
in dry seasons more especially, to go over the plants and gather off all
seed-pods at least once in the season. This is not such a formidable
undertaking as it may appear, and it adds in a very material degree to
the continued prolificness of the plants.

156 THE GARDENER. [April

Of half-hardy Annuals, which do better in our northern climate raised
in frames than by any other means, the following sorts are all well
worth growing as decorative plants : Dwarf Chrysanthemum Asters,
Dwarf Helichrysums, African Marigolds, Phlox Drummondi atro-
coccinea, Dwarf Mimulus, Dianthus Heddewigi and double Indian
Pinks, common Sunflowers. Antirrhinums and QEnothera Lamarck-
iana may be treated in the same manner with the others. These, like
the hardy Annuals named, will, under good cultivation, keep on flower-
ing as late in the year as ordinary bedding-plants. The way I treat
them is to set apart a sufficient number of frame lights; to prepare
the bed of Mushroom-dung and light soil in equal proportions; to sow
the seeds very thinly over the entire surface of the beds, covering
slightly with some fine soil, which is patted down gently with the back
of a spade. Then the sashes are put on, and the whole covered with
mats until the seedlings appear. The mats keep everything underneath
them in quite equable conditions, and save all bother. As the seed-
lings progress and the weather gets warmer, more and more ventila-
tion will be required, until the sashes are removed altogether. If sown
during the first half of this month, in the end of May they will be
ready for removal into their flowering places. Choose a dull day.
Make a mixture of soil and water, and dip the roots of the plants in
this, a handful of plants at a time, and plant them with a common
dibber, giving each plenty of room to grow. If the weather breaks
out strong the next day or two succeeding the one on which the plants
are set out, they may require watering. I find in the hottest weather
that one watering is sufficient, only it is better to hoe the ground the
next morning. In moderately sunny weather, the plants take care of
themselves without being watered. E. P. Beotherston.

MIGNONETTE -CULTURE FOR AUTUMN, WINTER,
AND SPRING.

In nearly every garden, large or small. Mignonette is found during the
summer ; and this is scarcely to be wondered at, as it is as worthy of
a place as the majority of sweet-scented flowers. During autumn^
winter, and spring the case is very different, and it is only found in a
small percentage of gardens where sweet flowers for decoration and
cutting are in demand.

The cultivation of Mignonette is comparatively easy, yet care and
particular attention must be bestowed upon it if success is expected.
Any neglect sufiicient to cause a check while growing brings the
shoots into a hardened and woody condition, and success afterwards
can scarcely be looked for. To grow plants trained upon umbrella
and pyramidal trellises for next autumn and winter blooming, a start
must be made during the present month. It is a mistake to sow too
early, and many cultivators fail on this account. If plants are raised

i88i.] MIGNONETTE -CULTURE. 157

early and pushed forward rapidly, they frequently go off in early
autumn. Besides, their growth — which should always be strong,
vigorous, and sturdy— when made early entirely by artificial aid, with
an insufficient quantity of air, is weak and puny, and constantly
showing flower.

The varieties best adapted for forcing are Parson's Tree Mignonette
and Miles's Hybrid Spiral. The latter is a very excellent variety, and
becoming a general favourite. It is more fragrant than the former,
and produces larger spikes when a good strain can be obtained — (this is
rather difficult, as there are already inferior forms of it in the market).
When true, it is unquestionably the best for growing in 6-inch pots
through the winter. For spring use I have always found the common
garden variety valuable.

The seed should be sown in 2-inch pots, which should be clean and
well-drained, as these are important items in the culture of Mignon-
ette. The roots cling more to the pots than any plants I am
acquainted with, " Orchids excepted," if not thoroughly clean, and
renders turning them out of their pots difficult without pulling off a
quantity of their roots. The pots should be filled with a light rich
compost, and a few seeds sown in the centre of each, slightly covered
with light soil. It is a good plan to sow double the quantity of pots
required, as many of the plants may turn out inferior. Those with
small leaves should be destroyed, as they never produce good spikes
of bloom. After the seeds are sown and watered, they should be
placed in a temperature of 50° to 55° at night, when they will soon
germinate. A pit with a hot -water pipe round it is the place for
them, where they can be close to the glass, and receive plenty of
air on all favourable occasions, — at the same time cold draughts must
be avoided. The pots should be plunged if possible in cocoa-nut
fibre or any moisture - holding material. Failing this, they can be
started in a vinery or Peach-house, but must be placed where they can
receive plenty of light, and the small pots can be plunged into a box.
When the seedlings are up they are thinned out to two or three, which
are allowed to grow together until the best and most promising plant
can be determined upon, which alone should be retained. When about
2 inches high they should be supported with small stakes. By sowing
late the plants can be pushed on with all possible speed conducive to
their wellbeing. Quick growth is essential to healthy plants and
large spikes of flowers. When the small pots contain a mass of fine
white healthy roots, the plants should be transferred into 4-inch pots.
The compost should consist of rich fibry loam, a portion of thoroughly
rotten manure, leaf-mould, a little soot, and sufficient coarse sand to
render the whole porous. After the two first pottings the leaf -soil
can be dispensed with : it is good for the young plants, causing them
to make a quick growth. In potting, the soil should be pressed firmly
into the pots, and the plants shaded from bright sun until they com-

158 THE GARDENER. [April

mence to root into the new soil. When the plants are from 6 to 9
inches high, it must be decided whether they are to be trained pyra-
mids or on umbrella trellises, or staked for bushes, or any shape that
suits the taste or requirements of different cultivators. Those that
have the greatest inclination to branch should be selected for pyra-
mids, while those of upright growth, will be most suitable for the um-
brella trellises ; and as soon as side shoots are produced on the latter,
they should be removed until the desired height is attained, and then
be allowed to branch and cover the trellis allotted to tliem. Care
must be taken not to neglect the operation of potting, which must be
attended to from time to time as they fill their pots with roots, giving
them a shift of 2 inches each time until placed in 9- and 10-inch pots,
which is large enough for the final shifts. On each occasion the
frame should be kept close for a time, and the plants well syringed
two or three times a-day. They must have more air as the season
advances, and artificial heat gradually dispensed with. When well har-
dened they should occupy a cold frame, with a northern aspect if pos-
sible, where the direct rays of the sun will not strike upon them. If
the hot sun strikes upon the frame, shading must be resorted to, but
not so as to exclude light, which is very important. Mignonette likes
a cool moist bottom, and the pots should stand upon ashes. If placed
in a favourable position, the young growths will develop with great
rapidity. When transferred into their flowering - pots, the various
trellises can be placed to the plants, and the necessary training com-
menced at once. The flowers must be removed as they appear, and
more attention will be required in tying and stopping.

Watering is of the greatest importance, and must be attended to
with care and discretion. If there is any secret in the production of
good Mignonette, it is in a judicious use of the water-pot. I have
invariably observed that if watering Mignonette has been intrusted to
one person over the greater portion of the season, and then is trans-
ferred to another, a number of plants generally go wrong, in spite of
all directions. They should never become saturated, or, on the other
hand, too dry ; a medium condition should be aimed at. If allowed
to suffer for want of water, the foliage soon presents a sickly appear-
ance, the wood becomes hard, and the progress of the plants is brought
to a standstill. When the pots are well filled with roots, weak stimu-
lants may be given occasionally. Clear soot-water acts quickly upon
the plants, and the foliage presents a fine dark-green hue when it is
used. By all means, strong doses of liquid manure must be avoided,
or failure is inevitable.

Referring again to the summer treatment, syringing, watering, pick-
ing off the flowers, and training, must be attended to. Close training
should be avoided, as the plants do not look so natural, nor are their
spikes of flower so large and shown to such advantage. They should
have abundance of air night and day during summer, and remain in

i88i.] MIGNONETTE- CULTURE. 159

the pit until the nights commence being cold — towards the end of
September or October. Some cultivators place the plants outside dur-
ing summer, but I have been more successful by keeping them in the
frame. When outside, they are frequently exposed to such extremes
— either saturated with rain, or at other times too dry ; and the hot
dry air playing about them is prejudicial to their proper development.
The plants, when removed from the cold frame, must be placed in a
light airy position in a house where frost can be excluded. The pick-
ing off the flowers must be discontinued, according to the time the
plants are wanted to bloom, and be allowed time so as to develop them
under cool treatment. When brought into bloom in heat, the flowers
are not nearly so fragrant; and when the atmosphere is rather close in
winter, the Mignonette soon grows weakly, and the flowers produced
are small A temperature of 45° is ample until the flowers are formed,
when a little more heat could be given, if circumstances compel them
to be pushed forward faster to maintain the supply. A succession can
be maintained for a long time by trained plants, if care is exercised in
removing the flowers from some plants later than others. Those that
produce their flowers early should, when flowering is over, be taken
care of, and again tied closely down, when they will produce flowers
again during February. It is a good plan to make a second sowing
about the end of May or early in June for training on umbrella trellises,
which is allowed to come forward gradually, and housed during winter
in a cool vinery, or any light, suitable place. These plants, under real
cool treatment, will cover their trellises by the month of February, and
produce magnificent spikes of flower after that date. This second sow-
ing for trained plants is scarcely necessary if plants only are required
for conservatory decoration and cutting. But when trained plants are
required for room decoration, many of them are considerably injured,
and never recover sufficiently to be worth keeping for their second supply
of flowers, consequently a second sowing has to be resorted to to main-
tain the supply of trained plants. The supply here has to be main-
tained from the beginning of November until the first of May, and for
cutting only after that date until it can be gathered outside. Quan-
tities are grown in 6-inch pots, and the first sowing is made about the
middle of July, and treated as described for trained plants, — only six or
seven plants are allowed to remain in each pot and never stopped.
The seed is sown in the 6-inch pot. The variety is Miles's Hybrid
Spiral, which commences to flower in November, and continues for
some time. When the first flowers are removed, the plants are kept,
and soon produce many more from the side shoots, which, although not
quite so fine, are useful for cutting. These are succeeded by other
batches sown about the middle of August, again early in September, and
towards the end of the month. These supply flowers as long as they
are required. As mentioned above, the common garden variety is used
for the last two sowings. The last sowing is kept through the winter

IGO THE GARDENER. [April

in cool airy positions close to the glass. In fact they are kept here
on the shelves in our late Peach-houses, which are used for Strawberries
in their season.

The soil should be pressed firmly into the pots. The plants with
me grow dwarfer, and produce better spikes of flower, than when potted
lightly.

If the supply is likely to run short, we sow early in a cold frame, to
come in between our pot-plants and those outside. The earliest out-
doors here in every case are what are termed " self-sown plants."

Wm. Bardney.

HINTS FOR AMATEURS.
GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

With useful selections of flowering-plants, at this season of the year,
show-houses, we think, are more interesting than at any other period.
What are known as spring flowers always create a charm : and for cut-
ting purposes good things are always abundant. The kinds need
hardly be mentioned, as those of well-known popularity have been
noted in past months. Abundance can be had with very little forcing,
so that proprietors with a few pits, or a glass shed or two, may have
plenty of floral beauty around them. The numerous kinds of hardy
flowers which can be lifted to make a display are very attainable,
and look well anywhere. While one has plenty of flowers for the
present, it is well to give a reminder that the display at the end of
the season, and early part of next, depends on steps being taken now
to secure a harvest of floral beauty. Azaleas and Camellias are always
telling, and much valued. To get their flower-buds set early, and the
plants to flower at the desired time, they should be in a mild moist
temperature (shutting up early with sun-heat), kept clean, carefully
watered, kept free from worms at the roots, in healthy soil, with free
drainage, and shaded from bright sunshine : a vinery, moderately
forced, or Peach-house at work, suits well till shade is too much. Then
a pit shaded judiciously is a mode of treatment congenial to these
plants, and when the buds are prominent they may be aired more
freely, and placed outside (choosing a dull day) in June, behind a
thick hedge or wall. But in structures where they are planted out,
the preparation for early display is much more simple, and the plants
do better.

A similar treatment suits early-flowering Heaths till their wood has
a good start, and after this they must not be coddled. Epacris and
Cytisus may now be pressed into growth for winter flowering. No
greenhouse plant should suffer for want of pot-room. Over-potting is
a great mistake with any plants in pots, and makes them more diffl-
cult to water. Pot firm, encasing the ball of roots all over with the
new soil. Most hard -wood plants require abundance of air when

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 161

growth is active, plenty of water, and no surface - dribbling. Soil
suitable for most of them is peat, sand, and charcoal. If the peat is
fairly mixed with sand it is generally enough : a little pure maiden
loam with some of the kinds is advantageous. To judge of soils, it is
well to examine what the plants are growing in. If they have done
well, get soil of the same kind for them. Plants of Liliums, Fuchsias,
Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, Double Petunias, may now be on the way
for summer flowers ; and seed may be sown of Balsam, Cockscombs,
(especially of the feathered Cockscombs), and Globe Amaranthus, for
decorating structures. The latter does well with gentle bottom-heat,
kept well to the light, and air increased as the plants advance in
growth. Stage Pelargoniums require watching to keep them free from
aphis. Stake them out, keeping the " crutches'' out of sight as much
as possible : use no more than are absolutely necessary. Give clear
manUiS-water to those which have plenty of feeders to consume it.
Surfacing of turfy loam, mixed with a little rotten cow-manure, may
be of much service to all the Pelargonium class with pots full of roots.
Calceolarias, of the shrubby kinds, which have been wintered in small
pots, may have a liberal shift into rich soil before they begin flowering.
Liliums, of kinds, may be staked, surfaced, and got ready for flowering.
In the show-house, climbers ought to be regulated — not trimmed or
tied out of natural outline, but to prevent matting or undue monopo-
lising of space. Good soakings of water may be required by plants
growing in the conservatory borders. Specimens should stand clear
of each other ; and clean surfaces of every description should be the
rule. Plants going freely into growth should be kept clear of their
old decaying foliage. Insects may be kept off by syringing quassia-
water over the stock of plants. The syringe may be used lightly
with clean rain-water, morning and evening, before and after the sun
is powerful on them.

Fire-heat may be used to keep out frost, if it should unfortunately
visit us ; and if a damp period should occur, the heating apparatus
may be used to keep the house healthy, but we never would use fire-
heat if we could avoid it.

Plants which are going out of flower should be carefully placed out
of the reach of frost, and hardened gradually for turning out in their
summer quarters. This applies to Roses, Cytisus, Rhododendrons,
Kalmias, Lilacs, Deutzias, Spiraeas, and suchlike. Primulas and
Cinerarias may be saved if they are worth it. A few named kinds of
the latter, of distinctive merit, may be useful to get good seed from,
and also cut into pieces to form plants. Sow seed of these and
Primulas, also of Begonias, and grow Fuchsias and Coleus from
cuttings.

STOVE.

If the stock of plants in this structure have been overhauled, roots
placed in healthy soil, and well drained, they should now be in free

L

162 THE GARDENER. [April

growth. Abundance of atmospheric moisture and increased heat will
cause a healthy leafage ; and those which are to flower will be in con-
dition to do their part well : starvelings never give satisfaction. Bas-
kets with air plants must have the syringe well applied ; shade judi-
ciously, but overdoing it is a slow system of destruction, Achimenes,
Gesnerias, Gloxinas, and Begonias, for summer and autumn blooming,
may be on the way. Where means are plentiful, these can be had in
tlower long before this. A pit separate from the stove to bring such
things forward is very essential ; indeed, where all have to be huddled
into one structure, justice to the large bulk of the plants is impos-
sible. Fine-foliaged plants must not be syringed with dirty water.
In districts where lime abounds, it is almost impossible to get clean
handsome specimens. Clean rain-water is best for all purposes, and
should be used of the same temperature as the plants are growing in.

Fire-heat, about 65° at night, 70° by day ; and when sun is bright
the heat may rise to 80° with safety. Shut up in good time in the
afternoon, dewing all over : a chink of air on at night when structures
are close is advantageous. Crowding is a general evil, and where such
is the case, one may say farewell to handsome specimens.

FLOWER-GARDEN.

Alterations and renovations may now close as soon as possible. Flower-gar-
dens should now assume a dressy appearance. Mowing, rolling, sweeping,
clipping, and other operations should have due attention. Any attempt at
display is labour lost where untidiness prevails. Better a small patch of well-
kept garden than acres of rough unkept ground. Grass should not be kept at
all except it cin be well dooe. Grass-seeds may be sown to improve lawns.
Box may be clipped : it is not too late to plant it if a soaking of water is given
afterwards ; but dribbling outside is as great an evil as it is an apology for
watering inside. Tulips and other bulbs will now be flowering well. If they
are a speciality, they may be protected with canvas. All spring flowering-
plants should be kept in good trim. A display of choice flowers at this season
is no mean item in a garden, whether large or small. Sow Mignonette and
Sweet Peas in the borders, where they are to flower. Sow in a gentle warmth,
Stocks, Asters, Marigolds, and others, to be afterwards pricked out under pro-
tection, and planted when all danger of frost is past. Hardy bedding-plants,
where ground is ready, may be planted according to taste. Keep in view what
tender things are to be associated with them. Other bedders ma}' be kept on
growing steadil}', increasing air as the plants are gaining vigour. Exposing
the stock of plants to drought and heat is a means of getting a weak stock,
and many losses must be sustained.

Calceolarias may be planted into frames, turf-pits, or other make-shift
structures (good substantial pits are always the cheapest structures in the end),
using good turfy loam (a little leaf-mould will do no harm) ; they can then be
planted out in May. If kept hardy by light and air, they are not crippled if
exposed to a little frost. Pannes, Stocks which have been wintered in pots,
Carnations, Pinks, Violas, and other hardy kinds, may be planted in well-pre-
pared rich soil, free from stagnant water. Dahlias may be potted on, and if
large and healthy, they will flower early in August (we have seen a tolerable
show of them early in July). Any herbaceous plants, either from seed, cuttings,

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 1G3

or divisions, may be planted in their flowering quarters. These useful plants
either should be done well, or not grown at all. The amount of work some re-
quire is considerable ; but there are others, again, which need almost no
attention after being well planted.

Auriculas, Carnations, Picotees, and similar plants to flower in pots, should
not be kept coddled. Fill the lights up back and front when weather is wet,
and when dry take them off altogether. Surface them with rich loam and
rotten cow -manure. Worms and bid drainage will soon ruin the stock,
should such exist. A shady but airy position suits them well. Chrysanthe-
mums should be grown with plenty of air and light, and not allowed to be-
come pot-bound. These easily-grown plants are often ruined by coddling them,
and undue stopping of the shoots,

HARDY FRUITS,

It is expected, as a matter of course, that all training, staking, and other
requirements of fruit-trees have been attended to. Rather than leave undone
such work, do it "late" in preference to "never," Gooseberries, Currants,
and all bush-fruit should be mulched if practicable. Caterpillars are often
supposed to be cleared off' and the trees saved for the season, by taking a
quantity of the soil away from, say, 3 or 4 feet round the collars of the bushes,
and replacing it with old tan, good manure, or something else. We last season
did this, and mulched well with cow-manure, but never had such attacks of
aphis and caterpillar before ; and the attacks were repeated till late in the
season. Mulching of Rasps is a good practice, especially where soil is light
and exposed to the south. Disbudding may now have due attention : take off
all growing outwards first, and go over the trees at intervals of a week in
]>reference to clearing off" all at once. Sudden checks mean soliciting the
company of aphis and other vermin. Young trees may require a soaking of
water, if soil is light and dry ; but seldom is this the case during April, If
they are sending out unequal shoots, pinch the tops out of the strong ones
to aid the weakly growths. Now is the time when dying off" is seen among
Apricots, and with gross free-growing trees it is generally more common. We
have more than once referred to wholesale dying of branches, A few weeks
ago we visited a number of gardens of fame (among the amateur class), and all
had more or less been under the lash of Apricot disease— whole walls cleared to
the stumps of the trees ; indeed scarcely an Apricot was to be seen, and the
more thrifty growers had changed their tactics, and, giving up Apricot and
Peach growing, had planted in their stead Cordon Pears and Plums ; others had
filled the borders with Pyramid Pears, and left the wall to keep out prowlers
(plenty of them being in the adjacent towns). The soil, we observed, was
light and gritty, evidently spongy and loose— the very opposite of what we
have examined where growers in Oxfordshire have gained their fame for fine
Apricots, If lime is deficient in the soil, it may be added with advantage.
It is singular that Apricots are often seen doing well on cold exposed positions,
while in favoured districts the tantalising disease is often worst ; but we
would advise the " afflicted " to give up the growing of these stone-fruits, and
try Pears, Morello Cherries, and Plums in their stead ; and enough Apricots
might be purchased with the overplus of the Pears, if sold in a proper market.
If aphis appears among Peaches, Plums, or Cherries, which it often does,
"Fir-tree oil" may be found a simple remedy, as prevention and cure. Tobacco-
powder, mixed in soft-soap water, syringed over the tree before the flowers
and leaf-buds burst, might prove a friend in need. M. T.

164 THE GARDENER. [April

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

NO. IV. — THE GRAPE VINE {continued).

Seeing that you have a good aspect, it would not be advisable to start
your Vines into growth too early. March is a good time. Do not
run up a great heat all of a sudden whenever you see the buds
push. 50^ by night, should never be exceeded by means of fire-heat ;
nor yet 60° by day, until the shoots are pushed 6 or 8 inches. Of
course, if the sun shines brightly, the right thing is to allow the heat
to run up to 70°, or even 80°. We need not say anything more on this
head, as our directions for the first year will also do for the second, in
every particular except one, and that is, that instead of allowing the
lateral growths to run out, they should be stopped, and kept stopped
at one joint. The reason for this is, that when the laterals are allowed
to run too far out, the main buds (which are to produce fruit next year)
remain flat and undeveloped ; whereas, when the lateral growth is
restricted, the buds plump up and become round. Now this is a point
of some importance, and the best gardeners are quite unanimous on
it ; although some few allege that the more growth that is made,
and the more leaves that are allowed to develop, the greater is
the strength of the Vines. This is more apparent than real ; for when
the growth is restricted, the leaves swell to a size and assume a sub-
stance unapproached by the leaves of Vines which are unrestrained
in their growth ; and experience teaches me that quality in leaves, as in
everything else, is of greater importance than mere quantity without
it. We may see here that it is the leaves of the plants which do the
work, and therefore they must be kept in health, or otherwise the
plants will fail.

After the leaves have fallen, pruning must be again done, and this
simply consists in cutting the rods back to about 5 feet from where
they were cut last year. This will leave room for six pairs of shoots, or
spurs as they are termed, for we advise your following the spur system,
as it is called. The spurs should be at least 15 inches apart, and as
evenly distributed along the rods as possible. To secure this, it is
well to slice off the buds which are not wanted with a sharp knife.
Besides the buds left for spurs or side growths, one must be left for
a leader, of course. An inch of wood should always be left beyond
the buds when they are pruned, otherwise they may be weakened.
After scrubbing the rods carefully with soapy water, the cuts should
be dressed as advised for the first year, then remove any loose soil
on the surface of the border and replace it with fresh soil ; and over
all a fresh mulching of manure, in the same way as formerly directed,
and you are again ready for a start.

Before there are any signs of the buds moving, the rods should be
bent over, along the side of the front wall, so that their points may
be on a level with the floor. The object of this is, to cause all the

i88i.] THE FRUIT-GARDEN. 165

buds to break (grow) together, and so be of uniform strength, as those
which are uppermost are apt to start first and absorb any sap which
may be ready for use, and thus cause the lower ends to break weakly.
For this reason, also, it is not wise to try to get the Vines to start too
many spurs. In regard to temperatures and time of starting, the
advice given before applies here. We ought to say, however, that it
is good economy to aid the plants with artificial heat in the early
spring months, so that the fruit and wood may have a chance of
ripening early. We do not like the practice of keeping up the heat
by means of the fire-shovel late in autumn. The results are never
equal. Aid them w^ith fire -heat in spring, for the ripening process
does not go on satisfactorily without plenty of sun, although growth
may be promoted to a great extent without it.

Instead of tying your rods to the trellis (which should be at least
16 inches from the glass) as before, we advise you to hang them by
means of stout cord, 8 or 10 inches further down. The reason for
this is, that by so doing you will have more room for foliage, and it is
a good thing to allow the Vines to carry as much foliage as possible,
without overcrowding. The common practice is to stop the shoots at
one, or at most two, leaves beyond the bunch. When a bunch is left
to every spur this is too little leaf-power to bring the bunches up to
perfection, and hence many only take a bunch from every alternate spur.
You cannot afford to do this, so you ought to hang the rods below the
trellis, and so give the branches a chance to spread upivards as well as
outv)ards, and room to carry three, four, five, or six leaves beyond the
fruit, without overcrowding. Whenever the shoots are stopped, all
subsequent attempts at growth should be pinched off at the first leaf.

Each growth will produce a bunch, and maybe two. Put off all ex-
cept one on each growth, otherwise the Vines will be over-cropped — not
by any means an uncommon occurrence. After the berries have be-
come the size of peas they must be thinned out. This will go against
the grain, for it looks, to the beginner, like throwing away part of the
crop. It is not so, however, for the bunches will not be any lighter,
ultimately, for having two-thirds of the berries cut out, and the quality
will be much enhanced. When thinning, it should be borne in mind
that ultimately the berries will be about the size of marbles, and room
should be left for them swelling to that size. Generally speaking, two-
thirds will require cutting out, but practice and experience of varieties
alone can determine what is the exact quantity to remove. Only the
best berries should be left, and an eye should be kept to having sym-
metrical bunches. The uppermost limbs of large branches — shoulders
they are called— should be suspended (so that their weight may be re-
moved from the lower parts of the branch) by means of a thin shred of
tying material.

After the fruit is ripe the house should be kept rather cooler and
drier, and less water on the borders will sufiice. Should it be necessary

106 THE GARDENER. [April

to keep the fruit for a few weeks, the air of the house should be kept
dry, even although fire-heat should require to be used. Any berries
that show the least signs of decay should be removed immediately they
are seen, or they will very soon contaminate the whole bunch. As to
temperature, air-giving, and care of the Vine's health generally, the
treatment should just be as before advised. By the time the Vines are
bearing to the top of the house, the border will be pretty well filled
with roots, and greater care will need to be taken that they do not be-
come dry. Liquid manure may then be given with great advantage
when the fruit is fairly set. Cow-urine, house-sewage, or manure-drain-
ings of any kind may be given, but always well diluted. When none
of these are to be had, a sprinkling of guano may be put over the bor-
ders and watered in, which will serve the same purpose.

Pruning will have again to be done after the leaves are shed, and
this is the last Wesson in pruning the Vine which we will require to give
you. The main stem will need to be cut back again to within 3^ or 4
feet from where it was cut the year before. Three pairs of spurs, in
addition to last year's ones, will be all that you will be able to start
satisfactorily, and more should not be attempted. Last season's shoots
should be cut back to one eye, unless the one nearest the old wood is
very small ; in that case the second bud should be chosen. In all
other necessary particulars, the operations are just the same as stated
before. Should difficulties arise, you must just apply to some practical
man, who will, we doubt not, enlighten you ; but we think a careful
study of the foregoing, coupled with your own intelligence, will render
you independent of anybody. Without any direction of ours you might
have produced good Grapes ; but we feel convinced that you will grow
them better, and more of them, and have greater confidence in your
proceedings, than without such help. The person before referred to
attributes his success to the instructions herein contained, and we hope
many others may derive similar benefit therefrom. J. H.

{To he continued.)

ITOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

THE BALSAM.

Among plants raised annually from seed, for greenhouse or conserva-
tory decoration, the Balsam takes a prominent place as being one of
the showiest grown for that purpose. True, it is not a plant very well
suited for supplying cut-flowers, neither is it very well adapted for
dinner -table work, but it suits very well for mixing among foliage
and other plants for general house decoration ; and during the time
it is in flower, is one of the most effective plants for decorating the
conservatory. Few plants will stand a greater degree of hard usage
with impunity than the Balsam ; or, on the other hand, better repay

i88r.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 167

one for care and attention in its cultivation. Formerly it used to take
a somewhat prominent position in our horticultural exhibitions, but
for some years it seems to have been quite overlooked : we think this
is a pity, as it is just one of those plants most suitable for amateurs and
those having small means or limited accommodation for storing plants
in winter, and who are yet desirous of having a few flowering-plants,
at a small cost, during summer.

It is not always easy to get a really good strain of Balsam seed. It
is therefore best for growers to try and save their own seed, when a
good strain is obtained, which is very easily done, as the Balsam seeds
very freely. The best flowers should alone be reserved for seed-bear-
ing. If kept from moulding, the seed will keep for an almost indefi-
nite time. (It is really astonishing how long some kinds of seed will
retain their powers of germinating, if kept under proper conditions.
As an instance, last season some Lobelia seed which I bought failed
to come up, and I sowed a second time with seed that had been saved
in 1877, and I may say that it came up as thickly as Lobelia seed
usually does, the percentage being seemingly quite as great as that
obtained from fresh seed. It is a well-known fact that seeds lie dor-
mant in the earth for an indefinite time, until the proper conditions
are presented to call them into active life. How often has this been
exemplified in the making of railway cuttings and embankments, where
soil is exposed to the action of light and air which may not have been
so exposed for centuries, and yet in a short time they have become cov-
ered with verdure, and plants have been known to spring into being
which before had not existed in that locality !)

Seed of the Balsam should be sown during the month of February,
or early in March, according to the time they may be wanted to flower.
Sow in a properly drained pan in leaf-mould and sand, two-thirds of
the former to one-third of the latter : cover the seeds lightly, and set
the pan in a warm pit or vinery. Cover the pan with a piece of glass
until the seed begins to vegetate ; but as soon as the seedlings appear,
remove the glass and set the pan as close up to the light as may be
convenient, in order that the young seedlings may not get drawn up,
and weakly in consequence. When they have made two pairs of leaves,
pot them oif singly in 3-inch pots, as deep as convenient ; but in
pressing the soil gently, take care not to bruise the stems of the young
plants, which at this stage are very tender, else they may damp ofl'
altogether. They should still be kept as close up to the glass as pos-
sible in order to keep them dwarf and stubby. They will get drawn up
a little in spite of all one can do, but this can be rectified at the next
potting, which should be as soon as the small pots are well filled with
roots ; and now they should be shifted into 7-inch or 8-inch pots, using
roughish loam, leaf-mould, and sand, with a layer of old manure over
the crocks : set the ball of the plant on the top of the manure, and
then fill in the soil, pressing it moderately firm about the ball. A good

168 THE GARDENER. [April

portion of the stem will thus be buried, which will push out roots, and
thus the plant be made dwarf er in habit. If desirable, they may have
another shift later on, into 10-inoh pots, but this only where larger
plants are wanted. The plants will now be pushing out the lateral
growths, which should be trained out, either by tying them down to
a wire passing round below the rim of the pot, which is the neatest
way, or else by hooked sticks pushed into the soil, with the hook
passed over the shoot. Their tendency is upwards, so that even though
the branches be bent down to a horizontal position, the points will
again take the upward direction. The Balsam is a very gross-feeding
plant, and therefore requires a good deal of water ; and after the pots
are filled with roots, they may receive a dose of liquid manure, about
twice a-week, with great advantage to the plants. About the middle
of May the plants may be transferred to a cool house or pit, always
keeping them as near the glass as convenient, but away from draughts.
They will begin to flower in July, and continue for a good long time.
They are somewhat subject to the attacks of red-spider, but this seldom
appears on plants in a healthy condition, and is rather an indication of
something being wrong. It may be kept under, however, by the use of
the syringe. J. G., W.

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF WALL - BORDERS IN
KITCHEN-GARDENS.

NO. IV.

At the commencement of my last paper, I incidentally remarked that
in all probability we should not have sown a seed in the open before
the beginning of March. That time is passed, no seeds are sown,
and probably will not be for some time to come, severe frosts, snow,
and rain being in the ascendant. As a consequence, still more Peas,
Lettuces, Sprouts, and Cauliflowers are being grown in boxes and
frames, to be transplanted as weather permits.

Kidney Beans. — Few early vegetables are more appreciated than
these, and few are of easier culture. Those who have every facility for
growing them in pots in forcing -houses, and later on in pits and
frames, are not called upon to make extra exertions to forward them on
warm borders. At the same time, the sooner the houses and frames
are relieved the better, and on this account it is advisable to grow a
few Beans as early as possible in a sheltered position. Unfortunately
they are very tender, a slight frost completely crippling them. Beans,
in common with other seeds, were badly harvested last season,
and probably if sown early, taking into consideration the cold
wet state of the soil, they will germinate badly. To secure a few
pickings, of a certainty, in succession to those obtained with the
assistance of a glazed frame, or a rough frame and mats, it will be

i88i.] WALL-BORDERS IN KITCHEN-GARDENS. 169

found the best practice to raise a few plants in pots, and transplant.
3-inch pots may be employed, using moderately rich soil, placing two
good seeds oppositely, and near the sides of the pot. They may be
placed in a warm house or frame, transferring to a shelf or a cold frame
in time to prevent the plants becoming drawn, hardening off, and
finally transplanting, if possible, at the foot of either a south or west
"wall. Early in May will be soon enough to plant, and even then
they will require protection from late frosts. This protection may
easily be given at any time, if a few branches of Spruce Fir, or
some other evergreen, are kept in readiness. Hand-lights, as they are
taken off the earliest Cauliflowers, may also be placed on a warm
border, and be each filled with about eight plants in two lines : this
of course will forward the Beans considerably. The seed should be
sown about three weeks before the plants are required ; and if only
fifty plants are put out, they will yield several small and acceptable
dishes.

To maintain the supply, seed may be sown on a warm border, should
the ground be in good working order, about the middle of April, other-
wise it is advisable to delay sowing till the end of the month, sowing
again about three weeks later, also on a warm border, unless the spaces
between the trenches got out for Celery are utilised for the purpose.
Osborn's Forcing is the best for the earliest sowings — Canadian
Wonder and Negro Longpod forming good successions. Moulding
up is sufficient support for the former, but the two latter well repay
staking, moulding up then being unnecessary. The soil should be
moderately rich for Kidney Beans. The rows may be placed from
24 to 30 inches apart, according to the growth of the variety. On
poor sandy soils, the rows of Osborns and other dwarf sorts may be
placed 18 inches apart, thinning out the plants to about 5 inches.
The stronger growers well repay being given plenty of room, say from
9 to 10 inches apart. All of course require to be kept clean by frequent
hoeings. Watering is seldom necessary ; and it is difficult to apply in
sufficient quantities on a warm sloping border.

Haricot Beans. — Unfortunately these are not in request in many
establishments. I say unfortunately, for it is a matter of regret they
are not, as they give a variety to the list of vegetables daily required,
at a time when much needed, and are besides very wholesome, and
can be made delicious. What are usually supplied by seedsmen, if
Haricot Beans are ordered, are tall growing, and require stakes ; but
any kind of white Beans are suitable, and I prefer the White Dutch
or Caseknife to the much smaller-seeded White Haricot. Last season
the seed ripened badly in many gardens, which of course injuriously
affected the quality ; and to guard against a recurrence of this, I re-
commend the growth of a quantity either of a dwarf or runner Bean
on a warm border, the latter to have all running growth pinched back
whenever made. Carter's White Advancer may well be grown for its

170 THE GARDENER. [Aprii.

seed, HS it is a dwarf heavy cropper, and matures somewhat early.
Of course the pods of this, or of any other white -seeded variety,
can be used when in a young state, but it is not advisable to pick
many, or the crop of seed will be late. In many instances the warm
borders are limited in extent — room cannot therefore be spared for a
crop of Haricot Beans : in such cases they may be tried in a warm
open position. Here, much of a long south border I found occupied
with Winter Spinach ; but as we cannot afford to destroy this, I shall
follow with Beans, principally for seed, and shall consider the space
profitably employed. W. Iggulden.

— ^^-^^^jij^s-Ms-
nST O T E s.

If I were asked to name the most useful of all the Orchids now in
cultivation, I think I should say Calanthe Veitchii. I should hesitate
a little, of course, for Dendrobium nobile is not to be lightly disre-
garded in a question of this kind — nor, for the matter of that, is
Ccelogyne cristata either ; but I fancy most people would least like to
be without the tall rosy - flowered spires of Mr Dominy's hybrid
Calanthe during the dull winter season. All those on whom the
modern fashion for cut-flowers makes great demands must grow all
three Orchids named, in quantity; and then with white Roman
Hyacinths and Lily of the Valley, Spiraea and Tea-Rose buds, Bou-
vardias and Ferns, there may be no lack of Christmas blossoms.

Yes ! there is no doubt that Calanthe Veitchii is well worth having.
I speak feelingly on the point, and any of my gardening friends who
have it in great plenty may send me a bulb or two of it by parcel-post.
If no loss to them, it will be a great gain to me. While speaking of
this Calanthe, one should not forget C. nivalis, a pure snow-white
kind, seemingly rather rare, but most beautiful. Flowering as it does
after C. vestita is past, is rather an advantage than otherwise. It
should be looked up by those who have it not.

Another lovely Calanthe — far finer in colour than the darkest and
best forms of C. Veitchii — -was another seedling named after its raiser,
C. Sedeni. This was once exhibited and certificated at South Ken-
sington, but was never, I believe, seen again. One must sympathise
with Mr Seden in his loss of such a gorgeous thing ; and I sincerely
hope that P. H. Gosse, Esq. of Torquay, may not have to undergo such
a trial of patience, since I hear that he has been fortunate enough to
raise a lovely batch of hybrid Calanthes, including two or three beauti-
ful and distinct forms.

That clever ex-Mendelian Orchid - grower, Mr W. Swan, now in
charge of the Fallowfield Orchids near the busy town of Manchester,

r88i.] NOTES. 171 .

has also been successful in raising two or three very beautiful seedling
Dendrobiums, one of which fairly eclipses the now well-known D.
Ainsworthii, and even D. splendidissimum. All of these kinds are
hybrids between our old friend D. nobile and the violet-scented D.
heterocarpum. Already three Orchid-growers have been successful in
raising beautiful varieties from these two species intercrossed, and in
all cases the progeny are robust growers, and most profuse in their
bloom. I said three had thus far been successful, but I believe I
must say four; for among my numerous original sketches of Orchids I
find one of D. Charltoni made from flowers sent to me many years ago
by Lieut.-Colonel Charlton of Farm Hill, Braddon, Isle of Man, who
obtained it by crossing the above species.

Every day shows us some new development in this great art of
hybridism — this mysterious blending of diverse characteristics in
plants. Here is an art that will remain to us or to posterity, when
every square mile of our tiny world shall have been ransacked by
plant-collectors, and all new plants, as nature makes them, shall be no
more. Hybridism will always be the kaleidoscope through which new
and ever-varied plant beauty will then appear. And not beauty only,
for by its agency old plants may be rendered fit for new uses, old
favourites of to-day will be made new, and so serve the purposes of
the unthought-of fashions of a thousand years hence, just as the
Grape- Vine sculptured on the rock at Memphis five thousand years
ago gives us the exhibition Grapes to-day.

The hardy flowers are awaking from their winter's sleep. Snow-
drops, Plellebores, Crocus, and Scilla siberica bespangle the turf or
open border ; and that lovely gem among early blossoms, Chionodoxa
Lucillae, opened its bright eyes to the sun to-day (March 8) for the
first time in our old garden. A tiny bulb, not so large as a hazel-nut,
has given us four fine flowers nearly an inch in diameter, of a bright
porcelain blue, shading to white in the centre. It is far brighter than
the Siberian Squill, and, when well established, will be a most wel-
come little stranger.

Narcissus are spearing up strongly, as they always do after severe
winters, our N. maximus being now from 12 to 15 inches in height.
This is by far the most stately and effective of ail the yellow Daffodils,
attaining under good culture a height of from 2 to 3 feet, and bearing
great golden blossoms 5 or 6 inches across, and of a colour which
would make the most gorgeous AUamanda look like a Primrose.

Hepaticas, blue, red, and white, are lovely ; but lovelier still is the
Spring Snowflake, Leucojum vernum, which hangs its great white bells
Snowdrop-like on the top of a stalk nearly a foot in height.

Writer.

172

THE GARDENER.

[April

A PLANT-PIT.

Sir, — In the erection of pits, the conservation of heat by the means of
"mother earth" is very often underestimated, if not ignored altogether.
I think there is nothing that we can do with more advantage to our
plants than endeavour to have them rather under ground than above it.
The further a house or pit is raised above ground, the more it catches
the bitter blast in winter. The roof we must have exposed ; but why
have the walls also exposed, when they can be built for less money, and
heated at less cost afterwards, by having nothing exposed to the ele-
ments but the glass roof ? And not only is it of advantage in heating
in winter, but it is of great advantage in the maintenance of more genial
moist atmosphere in hot dry weather in summer, as every one can
testify who has had experience of such pits, or given the thing serious
consideration. For a range of useful pits, I would suggest something
like what is represented in the accompanying section. Supposing a a to

be the ground-line, mark off and level the soil where the outside walls
are to be, and run it hard so that there is no chance of its sinking. On
this build your outside walls, placing at intervals of 6 or 8 feet under
the wall a right-angle elbow 3-inch sanitary pipe, socket-end up, as
shown at b b. By placing three bricks on edge round its end, and
breaking off the end of the brick just above this pipe, a connection with
the inside of the pit is secured. Another pipe, placed in the socket at
h, will rise above the eaves of the pit ; and to prevent wet entering, a tin
or zinc cover can be supported 3 inches above the pipe by three pieces
of stout wire, to fit inside the sockets. These will form ventilators
which may in most cases be left open, except in severe weather ; but
when desirable to have them at command, a small shutter to each inside
can easily be applied. When the mortar is sufficiently set, the spaces
between the walls d d and also e e may be filled up with the soil ex-

i88i.] A PLANT- PIT. 173

cavated for a footpath c, building a wall on each side in the usual
way. The space between the pits should be in the form of a gutter,
asphalted, and made to carry the water to tanks inside the pits. These
gutters should be 18 inches or 2 feet wide, and if the ventilators are
placed alternately there will then be plenty of room for cleaning out,
attending to shading in summer, or applying mats or other coverings
in the winter. A drain-pipe under the ashes in the beds will carry part
of the water (otherwise wasted) back to the tanks. The inside arrange-
ment of this pit is specially adapted to the growing of decorative
plants of dwarf growth, such as Cyclamens, Primulas, Cinerarias,
Bouvardias, Achimenes, Begonias, Poinsettias, and dozens of other
plants, which will do far better than in houses of any other description.
But with a little modification of the arrangements, it can be made
equally suitable for propagating, forcing winter-flowering plants, grow-
ing pot- Vines, Melons, Cucumbers, Tomatoes, &c. &o.

The great objection to these sunken pits is the necessity of having
steps down to the doorways. This, however, is not always necessary.
If they are built on sloping ground they may be so arranged as to be
wholly under ground except the ends in which the doors are placed.
In such a case the end walls would have to be built first, the mean
height of the soil ascertained and levelled in the same way as you would
form a terrace, and upon this level, properly consolidated, commence
to build as on level ground. In building a number of such pits a large
tank should occupy the opposite end to the door, and these should not
only be connected with each other, but should be made one tank, so
that the water will run direct from the gutter into it. In every such
tank a flow and return hot-water pipe should be placed, for the use of
cold water in watering plants works untold mischief wherever it is
applied in heated structures. B-. Inglis.

THE HERBACEOUS PLANT CONTROVERSY.

For some time our contemporary, the 'Garden,' has been endeavouring
to make it appear that we are opposing its pet branch of gardening
— the culture of herbaceous plants ; and, as our readers are aware,
we defended ourselves in the 'Gardener' of March from this misre-
presentation, and to some extent dealt with the sneering manner in
which the ' Garden ' referred to us, our position, and our aids in con-
nection with this subject. Here is our contemporary's reply, for
which we desire neither better nor worse than that it be read in con-
nection with our remarks in March : —

'' The bitter feelings of Mr David Thomson in respect to the ' Garden ' and
its work, have long been accumulating in a deep reservoir, which, overstrained,
has burst at last. A few perhaps may remember that the question (originated
by Mr Thomson) concerned the flower-garden as regards the cost of staking— a
theme that hardly deserves a violent attitude. This is the way he talks of it :—

174 THE GARDENER. [April

"'Long before the editor of the "Garden" came to this country we had
devoted for years much of our spare time to hardy herbaceous i)lants, and we
could show him a herbarium of them that was formed before he knew a Rose
from a Thistle.'

" What a logical line of argument this ! But knowing so much and knowing
it so long, why make so pitiful a use of it as to get angry and resort to person-
alities in discussing such a subject ? And that is not all, as he, with noble
modesty, proceeds to give his infinitely small valuation of our 'standing.'
But surely this is going beyond the bounds of decent argument, Mr Thomson ?
The noble duke you serve has probably not included among your duties that
of pronouncing in a public print on the position of those, of whom, in your
vexed mood, you are not well fitted to judge. A very narrow soul has usually
capacity for depreciating others. In that high elevation of yours, you no
doubt are justified in looking at the kingdoms of the world as if they were
all dominated by those stony terraces you have the care of; so, too, the
sparrows on the dome of St Paul's take a complacent view of the human crea-
tures passing beneath them. In pity that one like you should not give an
example of fair discussion to the rising generation, we pass the personal ques-
tion raised by you, and shall hope at an early date to iind a corner to discuss
the matter from a more general point of view."

This is quite in harmony with our contemporary's tone and attitude
towards us, as its readers can see for themselves, since last November.
It might have been rather inconvenient for the writer of the above
to have quoted the whole or any part of our remarks of last month,
that would have shown the object we had in view — the defence of
ourselves from misrepresentation — or to have dealt with our state-
ments by argument or facts, instead of the weakness of a sneer, and
the quotation of a sentence most likely to mislead its readers. We
could well afford to pass in silence anything the ' Garden ' can pos-
sibly say of us, but in the interest of what is fair and truthful we
notice it.

In reference to the accumulation of bitter feelings towards our con-
temporary and its works, we challenge it to point to a sentence of ours
indicative of bitter feelings, unless that recently we thought fit to
defend ourselves, and plant a blow in return as well. More than this,
we ask the 'Garden' if any other horticultural journal has ever re-
viewed or noticed it and its work so approvingly as we have at page
96 of this magazine, 1877 1 Yet more as to these bitter feelings.
Though we have not contributed very much to the pages of our con^
temporaries, we have sent more to the ' Garden ' than to all of them
together, since its advent. Has the editor of the ' Garden' ever
showed courtesy or good feeling towards us, by an approving
notice of this magazine, or sending us anything in exchange for its
pages 1 Yet, in spite of these facts, and on the pretext of our daring
to dififer from it as to the comparative cost of two systems of flower-
gardening (which should never be set in rivalry against each other), the
attempt is made to make it appear that we have opposed the culture

i88i.] HERBACEOUS PLANT CONTROVERSY. 175

of hardy plants, and are the bitter enemy of the 'Garden' and its
work. Is our exceedingly charitable and civil contemporary thus
"measuring our corn by his own bushel"?

AYe are not in the least unwilling to credit the 'Garden' with its
true share of the merit that may be due to it for the advocacy of these
hardy plants, but in spite of all insinuations to the contrary, we
have never opposed them, while we have allowed a free discussion
of the merits and demerits of both systems of flower-gardening. Herb-
aceous plants, however, form but a small part of horticulture. They
bear the same relation to it that the shallow brook carrying the
"withered leaves" does to the majestic stream that bears the good old
ship of horticulture on its way ; hence, no doubt, horticulturists with
more than one string to their bow do not harp on it without inter-
mission.

We have now to congratulate our contemporary on its apparent pro-
mise to leave off "personalities" and straighten itself up from " violent
attitudes " in dealing with its critics, for only a few months ago it
characterised one of its brother editors in the elegant terms of "a
toothless wolf ;'' and more recently another writer was referred to as ''''the
creature ;" and now in its very best temper, our capacity is compared
to that of a Cockney sparrow. Perhaps it is fortunate for us that we
are not within range of a blunderbuss ! Stones of this sort should not
be thrown right and left by those who live in glass houses, unless they
also are prepared to have some panfes smashed occasionally ; and in dis-
playing the supreme confidence that what does not seem right to their
eyes must therefore be wrong, they may be certain that others do not
([uite think that horticulture would go to the dogs without them.

We had just written the foregoing when the 'Garden' of March
12 came to hand. As will be seen presently, a week's reflection has
not "purified our critic's heart." We will now proceed to unmask his
efforts at deception under the heading —

"MR DAVID THOMSO^^ OX FLOWER-GARDEXIXG."

Under this heading some very characteristic remarks appear in the ' Garden '
of March 12 — designed, as any one can easily see, to ridicule our practice at
Archerfield, and to make it appear that our statements at various times as to
the cost of the two systems of flower-gardening are contradictory. To show
the course of misrepresentation the writer adopts, we quote the following : —

"Referring once more to this subject, we notice that the plea of cost which
Mr Thomson urged against hardy plants is best answered by an extract from
his own book on the Flower-Garden referring to the mixed system as com-
pared with such bedding as is illustrated by him : —

" 'One of the most weighty arguments in its favour lies in the fact that it
is less expensive and less laborious than that which is the fashion now. —
"Flower- Gardening" (D. Thomson), p. 10, last edition.'

"There is no allusion here to the fact that the mixed style referred to is
only one of a number of ways of growing and enjoying garden flowers, and
one of the least important. In the same place, however, he speaks of

176 THE GARDENER. [April

" ' The vast increase of labour which has arisen in consequence of preparing
and cultivating so many tender |)lants as are demanded by modern llower-
gardening, and all without anything like corresponding resources in the way
of houses and pits for propa^jating and growing such numbers of plants.'

" The ideal paradise desired was a village of big glass-houses for the produc-
tion of tender plants to })e put out in summer, so that our author takes him-
self precisely, in his book, the view as regards cost that he was angry with
us for urging.

"What he himself thought of the future of flower-gardening in those days
may be gathered from an article of his own written in the ' Scottish Gardener '
in the palmy days of his bedding-out at Archerfield. In an article on the
future possibilities of (lower-gardening it

" 'Appeared to him t^en that some of the sections of plants which are used
for our borders and parterres will scarcely bs susceptible of much further im-
provement ; and as to arrangement, they have been used in almost every con-
ceivable relationship to each other, and it would almost appear as if there
were nothing further left to achieve in the matter of arrangement ' !

" ]\[r Thomson has so often raised the question of his own doings and prac-
tice in relation to hardy plants and their employment — and he has certainly
had opportunities such as fall to the lot of few men — that we might ask what
he did in that direction in those Archerfield days. Did the famous flower-
garden at Archerfield contain one single bed of good hardy plants? or was
any attempt whatever made to show what could be done with numbers of
beautiful subjects to be found among them ? Very little indeed ; four-fifths
of the plants were of the most ordinary kind — making a very fine show, no
doubt.

"Even the villagers of Dirleton came under the influence of the great bed-
ding movement : —

"'The flower -plots which invariably encircled the cottages were filled
with Geraniums, Calceolarias, Hydrangeas, and the favourite Mignonette, all
scenting the air, and spreading their heaven-like influence alike on the inmates
and observers.'

"The writer (in the 'Scottish Gardener') describes the nature of the in-
fluence on himself :■ —

" ' Each bed was one mass of bloom ; so regular had the plants grown that the
entire beds were covered. There were three beds of yellow Calceolarias that I
think it was impossible to excel for compactness, — not a leaf was seen — nothing
save the golden blooms, the bed resembling a large honeycomb. Looking at
these beds for a few moments, the eyes became almost of the same colour, and
magnified them larger still, until gradually they were relieved by the shrubby
habit and purple foliage of the Perilla nankinensis, with which the beds were
edged.' "

The quotations here made use of — as any one can see by referring to the
Introduction to the ' Handy Book of the Flower-Garden ' — are taken out of
their connection ; their real application is disguised and distorted. It is very
well known that it does not take many words to misrepresent any writer. By
taking odd sentences and phrases, and making them appear absolute, a
critic, with only a very little talent and a lamentable want of principle
and fairness, may make a writer say or prove almost anything desired. It is,
of course, much more convenient to traflBc in partial and prejudiced views of
isolated passages dislocated out of their connection, when the object is to mis-
represent, than to refute the particulars of your opponent's writings. What

iSSi.] HERBACEOUS PLANT CONTROVERSY. 177

can be said of those who have descended so low, and who at the same time
attempt to glorify their own special charity ? They certainly do not demand
smooth treatment. This writer does his best, and worst, to try and parade
what he would fain have it believed is our inconsistency ; and we will now
show his spirit of unfairness.

In reference to the quotation from page 10 of our book, it was applied to
what we refer to at pages 3 and 4 in these words: "The elder brethren
of our profession who can look back to the introduction of the Dahlia, give us
but a poor idea of llower-gardening as it was practised in the first decades of
this century. Flower-gardens had then seldom a separate locality devoted to
them; and when they had that advantage, they were generally composed
of unshapely figures cut out in grass, and arrauged, as the designer fondly
but erroneously imagined, after the principles of English gardening, as incul-
cated by Wheatley and Uvedale Price. These figures were mostly filled with
a miscellaneous assortment of shrubs and herbaceous plants, many of which
possessed only botanical interest." And then at page 10 it is said: "A
mixture with little regard to selection was the chief object attained, if not
the one kept in view." It was to this old style that we applied the sentence
our critic distorts from the context. It could not be any other, for no other
existed at the time we wrote of. In the 'Gardener' of November last we
ai)plied remarks to the same effect: ""Whatever is worth doing is worth
doing well ; and it may be taken for granted that no one with any sense
of good culture and order in a garden pretends to maintain that the style
of hardy mixed flower-borders that were in vogue before bedding-out began
would now be tolerated. No doubt, to compare the system to which we
have just referred with the bedding-out system, the latter is the more ex-
pensive. But to affirm that the bedding-out system is more expensive or
laborious than the same area occupied and kept gay from spring till autumn
with hardy herbaceous plants in a state of good cultivation is a different
matter." Will our readers tell us where the one statement contradicts the
other ? Such criticism consists only of a species of unfair quotation that no
honourable mind would resort to. It would not have fitted in with the spirit
and tactics of the ' Garden' to have gone on and quoted our remarks at pages
13, 14, and 15 of our book.

We now turn to this writer's second quotation and his comments thereon,
coupling them with his comments on the use we made of our opportuni-
ties at Archerfield in the matter of hardy herbaceous plants. The same
remark, as will be seen, applies to both. He is in utter ignorance of the
mainspring of our flower-gardening at Archerfield; but that seems best to suit
his purpose. When we were engaged to take charge of the gardens at Archer-
field, their noble proprietrix gave us only one definite command regarding their
management. It was, that the flower-gardening (to which nearly every word
we have quoted above in reference to the old hardy system applied) was to be
done away with, for the sole reason that the family, having other two or three
country seats, were never likely to reside at Archerfield except from early in
August till about the middle of November, and that in former years the hardy
plants were all out of bloom, withered, and littery-like when the family arrived
there. We had the most definite order to inaugurate the bedding system ; and
at what expense we shall presently see. We had one season's experience of the
old system there, and in every point it tallied with Lady Mary Nisbet Hamil-
ton's remarks about it. Her ladyship arrived early in August of that year to
find all the herbaceous plants in the long borders in front of the chief range of

M

178 THE GARDENER. [April

glass and at tlie flower-garden done blooming, and withered -like, and her
ladyship commanded the change with more decision than ever. Now these
gardens had for a quarter of a century been in charge of two men (the late Mr
John Young, and Mr James M'Intosh, my predecessor at Drumlaurig) very
painstaking cultivators, and there was an excellent assortment of these plants
at Archerfield ; still we could have carried in our hand the whole bloom they
produced in August and September. As is well known, the soil at Archerfield
is light and dry, the climate considered to be the driest in Great Britain, and
no supply of water but what had to be pumped by manu il labour and collected
from the roofs of the houses — conditions most unfavourable to a late bloom of
herbaceous plants — but as everybody who visits the place knows, it is most
singularly favourable to the long-continued and brilliant bloom of the half-hardy
plants used there. Had our depreciatory critic been in our position, with all his
ardent love of hardy plants, what would he have done ? Disobeyed his em-
ployer, or have made the most of available resources and met her wishes ? Our
opinion is, that one of the best tests, and the first duty of a successful gardener,
is to produce what his employer wants, and let his own hobbies sink.

We of course carried out our employer's wish, removing the shrubs and hardy
herbaceous plants with which the beds and borders were mostly filled ; and in
the hope of getting some of the best late-blooming sorts to bloom later, we
planted some of them in a damper border partially shaded ; but finding that
they were over before September, we did not continue them. This, we should
suppose, is explanation and reason enough for our practice at Archerfield, not-
withstanding the esteem in which we held and still hold many herbaceous
plants, and in spite of what our critic tries to make out.

We entertained the Editor of the ' Garden ' at Archerfield some time after
the change of gardening. But he apparently forgets all he saw or heard of
there. He has forgotten how he expatiated to us on the numbers of tall-
growing things used to relieve the general features. He forgets all about
the majestic rows of Tritomas, the Palms, comparatively hardy Dracaenas,
Hameas, Yuccas (variegated and green), Gladiolus, &c. Since an occurrence
of last November, he makes it convenient to forget all these matters.

The third quotation made from our writings shows the desperate straits to
which our contemporary is reduced in his attempt at fastening a case on us.
This is what we did write : —

" Indeed it has been hinted that some of the sections of plants are scarcely sus-
ceptible of much further improvement ; and as to arrangement, it might almost
he said that the plants at our service have been used in every conceivable
arrangement and relationship to each other, and that there cannot be much to
achieve within the limits of good taste in this direction." See how this
quotation is garbled ! Now this is not given as our positive opinion, and we
continue to write : " If this be near the truth, and the rate of progress is to be
maintained, and the interest of flower-gardening freshened, we must neces-
sarily look to a new order of plants, and to the rcintroduction of many that
have been much neglected, and, in fact, never cultivated as they ought, " and
so on — page 12 of ' Handy Book ; ' and at page 13 the reader will find us con-
tinuing the subject : "I consider it very desirable to work into a still greater
variety of a hardier class of plants," &c. ; and then — "Hardy plants such
as I have referred to, or rather the multiplication and use of them, are one
of the greatest desiderata of the modern flower-garden." We wrote this years
before the * Garden ' was in existence. We have no greater desire, in order to

i88i.] HERBACEOUS PLANT CONTROVERSY. 179

show how thoroughly unfair is our critic's way of misquoting us, and how
low is the line of conduct adopted by him, than that those who possess our
' Handy Book ' should read it and compare it with these quotations.

As to our "having so often raised the question of our own doings and
practice in relation to hardy plants," we challenge him to refer to our haviug
done any such thing except in the ' Gardener ' of November last, where we
remarked that we were not writing without an extensive practice in both sys-
tems ; and we can appeal to our readers whether or not the remark was correct.
And excepting in that instance, and in our defence in the ' Gardener ' of last
month from the misrepresentations of the 'Garden,' we ask where we have
raised that question.

Turning now to the question of labour and expense in relation to the old
system of hardy herbaceous flower -gardening, and to what in our critic's
second quotation from the 'Handy Book of the Flower-Garden' we term
"modern flower-gardening." It is only another way of applying what we
have quoted, as repeated by us in our remarks of last November. The bed-
ding-out system, as every one knows, has been practised over a far wider area
in nearly every garden than ever the old mixed style of herbaceous plants
was : hence its greater expense than the flower-gardening of old times. This
is not what we have ever disputed in the matter of expense. It is the same
area kept constantly gay with herbaceous plants alone for months in succession.
We take the position, that, to do this, is more expensive than to do it with
bedding-plants such as are now available.

In reference to the remarks that the ' Garden ' makes on the second quotation
from the 'Handy Book,' we never asked, and never got, an additional pane
of glass when the change was made at Archerfield from the one system to
the other, nor did we spend more than £5 annually in baying bedding-
plants. Neither was there a house, pit, or frame there, nor a fire, that we
would have done without if there had not been a bedding-plant in the place.
There were over 300 feet run of vineries, over 200 feet of peacheries, accommoda-
tion for fruiting 100 Pines annually, a plant-stove, greenhouse, and plant-pit,
Mushroom and Rhubarb and Seakale houses, besides the growing of Melons,
Cucumbers, forcing Asparagus, Strawberries, &c., &c., for which, unfortunately,
there were ten fires. Grapes were supplied from April to the end of February,
Peaches from April till October. This, besides all the decorations at the man-
sion, the propagating of the flower-garden plants, and the whole work in the
large flower-garden at Dirleton, was conducted at an expenditure of 64:S.
jier week for labourers. There was no help allowed to the men in these two
departments, except that of six men for not more than three or four days at
planting-out time. The pit bill for the whole place did not exceed £15
annually. Then there were the few cartloads of loam and leaf-mould — had for
the collecting — and some rough wooden boxes. This applies to an area quite
double what previously had been devoted to flowers. These are particulars
that such men as Mr Henderson of Thoresby Park, and others, can bear testi-
mony to as being correct in every particular, for it was our good fortune to
take the gentleman named to Archerfield with us as fireman.

We are perfectly willing to leave it with any experienced gardener, or any
number of them, to say how much of the 643. was indispensably necessary
to manage the fruits, pot-plants, the forcing of vegetables, and attendance to
the mansion ; and we will be perfectly content to take the remainder as
a sum for the basis of estimating the comparative cost of the two systems

180 THE GARDENER. [April

of flower - gardening, and ask if the editor of the 'Garden,' or any man,
would undertake and accomplish the task of keeping the same area with
an unbroken mass of bloom from the middle of June till the end of October
(for we invariably planted by the 20th of May, and had a good show of bloom
in June ; and we have seen the i)lants in that climate untouched by frost at
the middle of November) with the portion of the r>4s. per week left, after
deducting a reasonable estimate for the fruit, &c. From a very extensive
experience of both systems here for the last thirteen years, we are more
than ever convinced that it cannot be done. Let it be borne in mind that
it is not the old fifty-years-ago system, and to which the quotations made
by our critic refer, that we are now speaking of, and which would not be
tolerated now.

The quotation from a writer in the ' Scottish Gardener ' is quite in keeping
with the spirit that prompts the quotations from our writings. It would not
have suited his purpose to have given any other quotations from the same
writer. The following, for instance, would not have served him : "When the
entrance-door was thrown open, the fairy scene that was opened up before
me — for it appeared like nothing else — so completely was I struck with the
beauty at first sight that I was at a loss to which hand to turn first," — and
so on.

The same course of unfair quotation, of what the editor of the 'Garden'
would fain have his readers believe we have written, is pursued in * Gardening
Illustrated.' Time and place only seems to aggravate his penchant ior mis-
quoting. He says, "That part of his [Mr David Thomson's] argument is, that
we have no charge of a garden establishment." In 'Gardening Illustrated'
he also writes that our "claim as a flower-gardener depends on geometrical
bedding-out only." Well, it seems we have some claim! Our critic's claim
depends on a year or two's practice in the herbaceous ground in the Regent's
Park. And we ask any one who knew that patch of ground there, if it was not
the only spot in that garden to which the term ugly could be applied. We
have to do with twice as much in geometrical hardy herbaceous ground, and
produce more bloom on it, than our critic ever had or is likely to have to
do with.

Having thus exposed the questionable tactics of our contemporary, we
leave him for ever, thinking that no importance can be attached to any
further notice of a man who can resort to such a course of argument as we
have been dealing with. Plenty can prove that we were an enthusiastic
"hardy-herbaceous plant-man" before our critic was born; and apparently
we will complete our gardening career as fond of them, and more extensively
engaged with them, than ever— in their proper place.

ZONAL PELARGONIUM, GUILLON MANGILLI.

In the March number of the ' Gardener/ "Reader" refers approvingly
to the above. Probably, had he seen it as grown by Mr Taylor at
Longleat, he would not have dismissed the subject so briefly — com-

i88t.] CENTRADENIA ROSEA. 181

mendable, though difficult to practise, as brevity undoubtedly is.
Guillon Mangilli is a winter-flowering variety of which it is impos-
sible to write in too glowing terms, as by a little trouble it is possible
to have an abundance of large trusses of semi- double, rosy- crimson
flowers throughout the winter and spring months. At the present
time, at Longleat, the plants are arranged in forcing-houses, in which
Kidney Beans, Tomatoes, and other heat -loving plants are growing.
They are disposed thinly, or otherwise the growth made would be too
succulent — the aim always in view being to keep them as sturdy as
possible. The majority of the plants are flow^ering for a second season
in the same pots (principally 10-inch), not having been cut back at all.
During the summer they are placed, but not plunged, in a sunny spot,
kept watered, and all bloom pinched ofi". The result is a sturdy growth
which will flower in heat, without becoming drawn and weakly — always
supposing the plants receive plenty of space and light.

Let me advise those who are in the habit of stocking some of their
houses with large old Begonias, Coleus, &c., which frequently are of
but little value, to substitute a few large, well -prepared plants of
Guillon Mangilli — to which may be added Madame Thibaut, pink,
and Madame Baltet, white, securing from them a quantity of bloom,
useful alike for home use, or packing for travelling. W. I.

[We grow this Pelargonium in quantity, and find it very use-
ful. A splendid free winter flowerer is Mrs Leavers, single. — Ed.]

CENTRADENIA ROSEA.

As not a few good old plants are being put aside to make room for
newer, though, very often, not so valuable ones — when valued
according to their beauty and usefulness, and not according to
their prices in the catalogues, for anything new brings always a good
price — to those who may not know Centradenia rosea (a Mexican
plant), I would introduce this old and useful stove-plant. It is of
a dwarf compact habit, leaves varying in length from ^ an inch to 1^
inch, and about ^ of an inch in breadth ; dark green above, and purple
beneath. The flowers are rose-coloured, small, but very numerous. But
the greatest beauty of the plant is its fine graceful habit, in which re-
spect it rivals the Adiantums. It can be struck at almost any season
of the year, but the time most suitable is early in spring. Cuttings
with three or four shoots on them are the best, as plants can be
grown from these in a shorter time than from those with only
one shoot. They strike freely in a mixture of equal parts of peat
and silver sand, with a top-heat of 65° to 80^ The emission of root-
lets will be hastened by bottom-heat, but they strike without it. The

182 THE GARDENER. [April

cattings must be shaded from the sun, and as soon as they are well
rooted, they should be potted into 2^-inch pots, in a mixture of two
parts peat and one part loam, and a little silver sand. They should
be kept shaded until they have taken with their shift, then inure them
gradually to light and sun, supply them with plenty of water, and
attend to pinching the shoots and keeping off any fiower-buds that
may appear. As soon as these pots are filled with roots, shift into
5 -inch pots, using the same compost. For most purposes these
pots will bs large enough, as plants in small pots have the nicest
appearance, and are generally most useful. A temperature ranging
from 60° to 75° will suit them all summer. Do not pinch after the end
of August. After October they will do in a temperature of 5° below
what is recommended for summer. If they have been treated as
advised, they will show their flowers in great profusion early in spring.
Instead of growing on the old plants, the better plan is to grow young
plants from cuttings for next season's stock. Grower.

THE BEDDING- OUT SYSTEM.

I AM sorry my remarks under the above heading in the February issue
of the 'Gardener' should have had such a perturbing effect on "One of
the Advocates of the Hardy Brigade " as to lead him to consider them
"in the light of a slander." He surely cannot have seen " nearly twenty
years' " active service with the hardy heroes, as exposure to the ele-
ments for that length of time has a tendency to harden and thicken
the skin— a characteristic that he cannot lay claim to, if we are to
judge by his style of dealing with my remarks. His "knowledge of the
subject he writes about" may be all that he claims, but he should not
attribute a want of knowledge of herbaceous plants to all who differ
from him as to whether they, or what are generally termed bedding-
plants, are the most suitable for the decoration of the flower-garden.
The writer has the privilege of reckoning amongst his friends an advo-
cate of hardy herbaceous plants — one who has done as much as any
living man to popularise these plants amongst practical gardeners. But
I always observed that bedding-plants were largely employed in the
flower-garden under his care. The reason for this is not far to seek.
He being a practical gardener, is able to value the two classes of plants
at their true worth as decorative subjects, and to select the number
and kinds of each best suited to the object in view and requirement
of the establisment.

I cannot find a good reason in anything that " One of the Advocates
of the Hardy Brigade " has said in opposition to my remarks why I
ought to withdraw any of them as he suggests I should do. Has not
he who arrogates to be the captain of "the Hardy Brigade" put it on

i88i.] HORIZOxNTALLY TRAINED PEACH-TREES. 183

record that Carnations and Picotees should be included in a border of
plants without stakes 1 And from this I inferred that he condemned
the practice of staking all herbaceous plants, whatever be their stature;
and the non-use of stakes would virtually exclude from the flower-
garden all the plants I named in my paper in the February issue of
the ' Gardener.' Perhaps, however, the " rank and file " of " the Hardy
Brigade" do not endorse the teaching of their commander. Be that
as it may, I have done with the subject, as further discussion of this
point would be of little practical benefit to any one. J. H. B.

HORIZOITTALLY TRAinSTEB PEACH-TREES.

In "Hints for Amateurs'^ last month, " M. T." says : "Horizontal train-
ing answers capitally for every kind of fruit we know. Pears, Plums,
Peaches, and Apricots we have trained in this form with the view of
reducing labour." As I am interested in such matters, I shall regard
it as a favour if " M. T." will furnish me with the address of any garden
where good examples of Peach-trees of mature age (say from ten to
thirty years) trained on the horizontal system are to be seen. Youth-
ful examples are of no value. I never yet have seen a good horizon-
tally trained Peach-tree in this country, nor a Plum either ; and those
which I have seen in French gardens had been raised with much la-
bour and difficulty, and were not of a kind to encourage any one to
attempt the plan whose object was fine trees and good crops of fruit.
The labour and time spent over them were out of all proportion to the
results obtained. J. S.

[We sent " J. S.'s " question to " M. T.," who replies :— ]
" I have for a number of years trained trees as described in ' Hints,'
but I do not know of any good examples of Peaches trained in any
form at the maximum age named by your correspondent 'J, S.' Neither
do I know why horizontally trained trees should not remain in healthy
condition as long as when trained into any other form. Those I train
as fans are treated the same as the horizontals — the bearing wood all
on one side, current year's shoots taken from base of that of the pre-
vious year : the latter is cut out, and its successor takes its place. To
keep the trees vigorous and free from disfigurement, a system of in-
troducing young leaders is practised, so that the substance of the tree
never really becomes old. I believe in this practice with every kind
of fruit-tree with which I am acquainted. I would not object to send
branches of horizontal training to your correspondent. M. T."

184 THE GARDENP:R. [April

DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The ordinary monthly meeting of this Association was held in the Imperial
Hotel, Dundee, on Friday evening the 4th nit., the president, Mr D. Doig, in
the chair. Owing to the inclemency of the weather, the attendance was smaller
than usnal. After the usual preliminary business, Mr ]\I 'Arthur, gardener to
Mr John Leng of Kimhrae, Newport, read a paper on " The Iin[)ortance of a
Practical Knowledge of Vegetable Culture. " After a few introductory remarks,
Mr M 'Arthur said that culinary vegetables ranked high as articles of food,
being very nutritious, and at the same time acting as a corrective against many
diseases. They had been cultivated by the nations of the East from the re-
motest ages. Perhaps the most ancient mention made of any special kinds
was to be found in the sacred writings of Moses, the Hebrew lawgiver, who
incidentally referred to them in the Rook of Numbers, from which we learn
that Cucumbers, Melons, Leeks, Onions, and Garlic were in use in the land of
Egypt in these days — 4000 years ago. ]\Ir M 'Arthur then referred to the date
of introduction, and the native countries of many of the most useful kinds of
vegetables, and briefly traced their history up till the present time. As an
instance of the rise and progress of the Potato, he alluded to the enormous
consumption of this vegetable at the present day, compared with what he had
heard from the lips of an old gardener in the West of iScotland, who well re-
membered hearing his father say, that when the Potato first came among them
they carefully scooped out the eyes, with a small portion of flesh attached,
and preserved them as sets for the following year's crop, while the remaining
portion of the flesh only was used as food. Mr M 'Arthur then dealt with the
practical part of his subject. It was of the greatest importance that a gar-
dener should have a thorough knowledge of this department of his business.
He was afraid there are manifold signs of a growing tendency with many to
partly, if not altogether, overlook or despise this very necessary part of
their education — the more pleasing occupants of the stove or greenhouse
claiming by far the greater part of their attention. He by no means spoke
lightly of the love for the beautiful and graceful in flowers and foliage,
or of the intellectual pleasure or enjoyment that would ever remain insepar-
ably associated with their beauty and culture ; but the gardener who must
supply his employer's table with first - class vegetables every day in the
year, could not afford to overlook the requirements of the one for the
more pleasant duties associated with the other. The preparation of the
soil was of the first importance in vegetable culture : to study its nature and
capabilities, how best to husband its resources, and how to increase its fer-
tility. To be able to make a judicious choice of seeds was also a very neces-
sary acquirement, as experience in this matter went a long way to assist in
keeping up a continual succession of fresh and useful vegetables. The insect
and parasite pests of the kitchen-garden also demanded the skill and energy of
the gardener. How to prevent or lessen the ravages of the Onion and Carrot-
worm — what was the cause of that scourge amongst Peas, the mildew, and
how it always appeared when rain came after a tack of dry weather, — these
and the like were questions of weight and importance to the gardener, seriously
afifecting his work, and often frustrating his well-laid plans.

Mr W. Williamson, Tarvit Gardens, Cupar-Fife, then read a paper on "The
Propagation, Cultivation, and Selection of Table Plants for Exhibition." He
selected twelve plants from five distinct genera, and treated in detail their
habits, propagation, and culture. These consisted of three Palms, three

i88i.] ORCHIDS IN BLOOM. 185

Crotons, three Dracftnas, two Aralias, and one Pandanus. The varieties
chosen all required a stove temperature, and their successful management
depended on the necessary accommodation, combined with a correct knowledge
of their requirements, and an acquaintance with their natural habitat.

Cocos Weddelliana, Geonoma gracilis, Crotons picturatus, Johannis, and
interruptum aureum, Dracsenas Sidneyii, Terminalis alba and Guilfoyleii,
Aralias elegantissima, Veitchii, and gracillima, and Pandanus Yeitchii were, in
Mr Williamson's opinion, among the very best of the table plants ; but with
the rapid improvements that were yearly taking place in this class of plants,
no doubt these would be superseded by other varieties of still greater value. ]\lr
Williamson then referred more directly to the position these plants held in the
show-room of our local exhibitions. He thought there was great room for im-
provement in staging them. Very often they were set so close together that one
could scarcely distinguish which plant the various leaves belonged to ; whereas,
to be seen to advantage, each plant should have more or less clear space around
it. They might with advantage be utilised in dividing the different sections
of cut-fiowers, where their graceful and elegant forms would go far to break up
the sometimes monotonous appearance of these exhibits.

This paper gave rise to a lively discus -iion— the class of plants generally
used and their treatment, as well as their habits and height — all being points
of dispute.

A scheme for the encouragement of self-improvement amongst the younger
members of the Association was submitted, the subjects suggested for con-
sideration being practical horticulture, botan}', and chemistry. This scheme
was approved of by the meeting, and it was remitted to the council to arrange
the details necessary for carrying it into practice. After a vote of thanks to
the speakers and the chairman the proceedings terminated.

ORCHIDS IN BLOOM.

The following Orchids are in bloom in Mr Smith's Collection, at Brentham
Park, Stirling, March 14 : —

Ada aurantiaca. Dendrobium Ainsworthii.

Angrsecum citratum. n bigibbum.

II sesquipedale, n crassinode,

Arpophyllum giganteum, n n Barberianum.

Barkeria Lindleyana. m Farmeri aureum.

Calanthe vestita nivalis. n fimbriatum oculatum.

Cattleya amethystoglossa. n luteolum.

II trianse. h Findleyanum.

II II atlanta. n hedyosmum.

II II vestita. n heterocarpum philippin-

11 Warscewiczii alba. ensis.

Chysis Limminghii h cucullatum giganteum.

Ccelogyne cristata, n lasioglossum.

II Lemoniana. n nobile.

It Ocellata maxima. n Pierardi.

II fuscescens, n Wardianum.

Colax jugosus. Dendrochilum glumaceum.

Cymbidium eburneum. Epidendrum paniculatum.

II Lowianum, n rhizophorum.

Cypripedium Drurii. lonopsis paniculatus,

II Lowii. Lffilia harpophylla.

II hirsutissimum. Lycaste Skiuueri.

186

THE GARDENER.

"April

Lycaste Skinneri.alba.
Masdevallia chim.nora.
II ignea.

II I. riibescens.

II Shuttleworthii.

II polysticta.

II Wagneriana.

^liltonia cuneata.

M Warscewiczii.
Odontoglossum Alexandre.

Bictuniense superba.

cirrhosiim.

cordatiim.

cristatum.

Chestertoni.

Doniaaum.

gloriosum.

Halli.

Jenningsiannm.

maculatum superbum.

membranaceum.

Odontoglossum nrcvium majus.
M Pescatorei.

,1 Hoezlii.

II Rossii majus.

II II II roseum.

II Uro-Skinneri.

11 triumphans.

Oncidium Cavendishii.
u cucullatum.

n concolor.

II macranthum.
11 serratum.

Phalsenopsis amabilis.

II grandillora.

II Schilleriana,

Saccolabium violaceum.
Sophronites grandiflora.
Vanda suavis (Veitch's var.)
1 1 tricolor.
II II insignis.

II 11 (Dalkeith var. )

EXHIBITIONS.

The Glasgow and West of Scotland Horticultural Society has fixed its Autumn
Exhibition for Wednesday and Thursday, the 7th and 8th September, in the
City Hall, Glasgow.

The annual competition of the Scottish Pansy Society will be held on June
the 17th, at 117 George Street, Edinburgh.

COMPIilMENTAKY DUSHSTER.

Mr Dunn, of Dalkeith Gardens, was entertained to dinner by the Scottish
Horticultural Association in Edinburgh on the 9th I\Iarch, in compliment to
the efficient manner in which he has occupied the position of president of the
Society, and for the great services he has rendered it since its commencement.
Mr John Downie, who has succeeded Mr Dunn as president, occupied the chair.
About 80 sat down to dinner. The chairman, in proposing the toast of the
occasion, referred in fitting terms to the great interest Mr Dunn had taken in
the Society, and to its successful results, stating that the members now are
over 500. He also referred to the high position Mr Dunn holds in horti-
culture generally, to the efiiciency with which he manages Dalkeith Gardens,
and the great interest he takes in young men under his charge. Mr Dunn
feelingly replied, and congratulated the Society on Mr Downie's advent to the
presidentship, which will no doubt continue to flourish under the leadership
of such an experienced and successful horticulturist as Mr Downie has proved
himself to be.

THE FROST AT BOTHWELL CASTLE IN JANUARY.

The month gave 5694° frost, or nearly 18i° for each day. On six days the
temperature fell (and on the 16th and 17th, 7° and 6°) below zero.

i88i.] ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 187

V ALL OTA PURPUREA.

Ix the 'Gardener' I find that one of your correspondents wonders why Vallota
is called purpurea, as it has no purple about it — but purpurea is really scarlet.
The Tyrian purple was a scarlet dye, and to be born in the purple indicates
that scarlet is the regal colour. D.

VANDA SPIKES

Open and opening at Chatsworth, 14th March.

No.
Vanda suavis, ...... 12S

II tricolor formosa, ..... 9

II insignis, . . . . ... 16

Largest number on one plant, . . . . 35.

There are about as many more spikes in later stages.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

March 8th.

The advancing season was well shown at Kensington on Tuesday, for the
exhibits had so far increased in numbers that, besides several small groujis
in the Council-room, an unusually fine display of Cyclamens, Amaryllises,
Orchids, and miscellaneous plants was provided in the conservatory, the attrac-
tions being still further increased by a lecture from the Eev. G. Henslow, and
a selection of music by a military band. There was a remarkably large attend-
ance of the members of the Floral Committee, and the Fruit Committee was
also well represented, the meeting altogether proving eminently satisfactory,
and notwithstanding the showery weather, visitors were fairly numerous.

Fruit Committee. — H. J. Veitch, Esq., in the chair. Mr Sidney Ford
sent a dish of a seedling Apple, Margaret Henrietta — a pretty Apple, but with-
out flavour. Mr M'Indoe, The Gardens, Hutton Hall, sent a seedling Cucum-
ber, called Verdant Green, but the internal colour was so green as to dis-
qualify it. Mr Douglas, Loxford Hall Gardens, sent a seedling Cucumber
from Tender and True, which was considered not quite so good as its parent.
Messrs Cutbush & Son, Highgate, sent samples of ISTuneham Park Onion of
very fine quality, to which a cultural commendation was awarded. Mr
Strachan, The Gardens, Bui wick Park, near Wansford, sent specimens of
Giant Zittau Onion, a fine brown-skinned Onion, to which a cultural com-
mendation was awarded. ]\Ir Sage, gardener to Earl Brownlow, Ashridge,
sent a dish of Musa Cavendishii, remarkably well grown. The bunch had
235 fruits upon it. A cultural commendation was awarded. Mr Cox of Red-
leaf Gardens exhibited fruit of Lemons and Oranges from Cyprus, for which
a letter of thanks was awarded. Mr Green, gardener to Sir George Macleay,
Pendell Court, Bletchingley, Surrey, sent a branch of CofTea arabica, var,
angustifolia, laden with fruit, and showing great luxuriance of growth and
superior cultivation. A cultural commendation was awarded.

Floral Committee. — Dr Denny in the chair. In the Council-room, Mr B.
S. Williams, Upper Holloway, exhibited a group of new plants, very notice-

188 THE GARDEx\ER. [April

able, among them being the magnificent Imantopbylhim Martha Reimers, which
\H described below. A specimen of the new Azalea ^M rs Gerard Leigh was shown.
Several plants of Primula sinensis llmbriata alba magnifica were staged, the
blooms being of great size and good form. Actiniopteris radiata, var. australis,
was represented by a specimen in excellent condition, for which a cultural com-
mendation was awarded. The species is a pretty little Fern very much in the
way of Rhipidopteris peltata, and the variety appeared to dill'er very slightly
if at all from the ty[)e. The fronds are divided in a fan-shaped manner into
linear dark-green segments, the stipes varying in height from 3 to 6 inches.
Mr C. Edmonds, HiUingdon, Middlesex, sent [)lants of Cyclamens, several of
which were very flue, especially one named Mrs Harry Veitch, white with a
purple throat, the petals being broad and the ilowers numerous. Purple
King had flowers of smaller size, of good rich colour, also abundant ; good
white varieties being Miss Lilian Cox and .Charming Bride, for which certifi-
cates were awarded, Mr F. Moore, gardener to C. Pickersgill, Esq., Blandon
Hall, Bexley, exhibited a specimen of Lycaste Skinneri giganteum superbum
in a 32-size pot, and bearing six large handsome flowers, the sepals broad,
and the petals with a rich crimson tinge. The plant was in excellent con-
dition. The same exhibitor also sent a flower of Lycaste Skinneri virginalis,
the beautiful white variety of this well-known Orchid. A vote of thanks was
accorded. G. F. Wilson, Esq., Heatherbank, Weybridge, sent two cut spikes
of Odontoglossum Alexandrse, one bearing thirteen, and the other sixteen
flowers, which were large, of good form, and with a fine purplish tinge in the
sepals. A vote of thanks was accorded.

Mr C. Green, gardener to Sir George Macleay, Pendell Court, Bletchingley,
sent flowers of Canna iridiflora, var. Ehemanni, of great size and deep crimson
colour, A note appended stated that the plant from which the flowers had
been gathered had been in bloom for the past seven months, treated as a sub-
aquatic — namely, planted with the crown about 9 inches above the surface of
the water in a warm tank devoted to Xymphaeas. It is not rested during the
winter like other Cannas, and is still flowering, having eight growths about
7 feet high. Fine flowers of the beautiful Vanda Cathcartii were also sent,
and a vote of thanks was accorded. Mr W. Masson, gardener to Dr Alfred
Meadows, Pojde Park, Colnbrook, Bucks, obtained a cultural commendation
for a number of large Cinerarias, with flowers of great size and excellent
colour, but very loose and of bad form, the plants also being rather coarse.
Mr R. H. Vertegans, Chad Valley Nurseries, Birmingham, obtained a vote
of thanks for a basket of double Cinerarias with flowers of good form, chiefly
purple and crimson in colour, some having the colours mixed, Mr James,
gardener to Mrs Watson, Redlees, Isleworth, exhibited a box of extremely
fine Cineraria blooms such as he is noted for. They were very handsome in
shape, and comprised some rich and varied colours. Two plants were also
shown — one, Mr H, Little, for which a certificate was awarded, and the other,
Mrs Little, with flowers of excellent form but of rather peculiar pale purplish
tint, or no doubt that would have received a similar award. Messrs John
Laing & Co. , The Nurseries, Forest Hill, sent a plant of Begonia Roezli with
its small bright coral-coloured flowers. Mr H. Gohn, of the Springwell Nur-
sery, Middlesex, sent plants of Crimson Beauty Primula, the flowers of good
colour but rather poor in shape. Messrs Wm. Paul & Son, Waltham Cross,
obtained a vote of thanks for a basket of Primrose Scott Wilson, the plants
being in good condition and bearing their purplish-blue flowers profusely.
J. T. D. Llewellyn, Esq. of Penllergare, Swansea, sent a pot of the diminutive

i88i.] ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 189

Crocus Sieberi collected at Florence thirteen years ago. The flowers are of a
lilac-purple tint, and rise about 2 inches above the soil.

In the conservatory, as noted above, the display was unusually bright, the
stage along one side of the entire path being entirely occupied with large and
beautiful groups of plants. The most noticeable were those from Messrs Yeitch,
the Orchids and Amaryllises being particularly attractive. Among the former
were several specimens of the fragrant Dendrochilum glumaceum, with numer-
ous spikes of its diminutive flowers. The charming Angrpecum citratum was
represented by a specimen flowering very freely in a shallow pan. The pretty
Dendrobium Ainsworthi was in good condition, its rich purple-lipped flowers
being numerous. One specimen of D. crassinode had a growth about 3 feet
long bearing twenty fine flowers. Many other handsome Orchids were also
observable, among them being several good varieties of Cattleya trianie and
Epidendrum macrochilum album. A specimen of Ehododendron Veitchii was
shown, with abundance of its beautiful large white crisp flowers. R. Taylori
was also exhibited in good condition, and near them was a group of Ehodcden-
dron Early Gem, a dwarf form, with oval dark -green leaves and purplish lilac-
coloured flowers of medium size, but produced very freely. It appears a use-
ful plant for decorative purposes, owing to its dwarfness and floriferousness.
Plants of Guelder Rose 2 feet high in 32-size pots had a prof usion of their balls
of white flowers. The double purple Cineraria Mrs Thomas Lloyd was in
similarly good condition. Cyclamens were contributed in vigorous health ;
but the Amaryllises were the chief feature of the groups, a large number
being exhibited of various shades of colours, some very rich, and the flowers
generally of excellent form. A gold medal was deservedly awarded for these
fine collections.

Mr B. S. Williams also obtained a gold medal for a large and handsome
group of Orchids, including some fine specimens of Cypripedium villosum, one
central plant about a yard in diameter having more than three dozen flowers,
while several others of less size had from twelve to twenty. Dendrobium
Freemani had two growths, each bearing twenty of its warm purple-tinted
flowers. Two large healthy specimens of Phaius grandifolius had a dozen
spikes each. A plant of Masdevallia ignea had more than thirty flowers, but
rather small, owing to a check the plant had received, as the variety is really
a very good one both in depth of colour and size of flower when in good condi-
tion. Cymbidium eburneuni was well shown ; also the pretty Odontoglossum
Rossii majus, and many others which cannot now be particularised.

The General Horticultural Company contributed an attractive and elegant
group of flne-foliaged and other plants. Very noticeable were specimens of
^chmea (Chevalliera) Veitchii and Tillandsia Saundersoniana. The former
has been in flower for a long period, the spike of closely imbricated crimson
bracts with their serrated margins being very distinct. The latter has
recurved glaucous green leaves with reddish spots, and a large spreading
inflorescence of flowers which were not open, but the pale yellow bracts
rendered it attractive. Small plants of Dracsena bella occupied the centre of
the group. This is a charming dwarf variety with narrow crimson leaves,
and admirably suited for table decoration, as it colours well in a young state.
The elegant Adiantuni Bausei was in good form ; several good specimens of
Nephrolepis Duffii being also exhibited, with Aralias, Palms, &c. A silver
Flora medal was awarded.

Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., Burford Lodge, Dorking (Orchid grower, Mr C.
Spyers), exhibited a very beautiful collection of Orchids, chiefly Odonto-

190 THE GARDENER. [April

glossuras, some of which had, however, been lent by Messrs Veitch and
Williams to permit the re]>re8entation of a larger number of species and
varieties. More than twenty forms of Odontoglossum were shown, some in
extremely line condition ; one specimen of 0. Alexandra; having a long spike
with sixteen ilowers. The pretty 0. roseum had seven spikes of its rich rose-
coloured flowers. 0. liossii ma jus had live spikes of its large Ilowers ; while
the peculiar and distinct 0. Uro-Skinneri had a long spike of blooms, of which
the purple marbled lip is so striking. Among other Orchids was a good ex-
ample of ililtonia cuneata with about a dozen spikes, some bearing ten flowers ;
Cymbidium eburneum being also well represented. A silver-gilt Flora medal
was awarded.

Cyclamens occupied a considerable space, three good collections being staged
— namely, from Mr H. B. Smith, Ealing Dean ; Mr R. Clarke, Twickenham ;
and Mr Charles Edmonds, Uxbridge, — to each of whom a silver Banksian medal
was awarded. All the plants were in excellent condition and flowering very
profusely, the collections differing chiefly in compactness of habit and height
of the flower-stalks. Messrs Osborn & Sons, Fulham, were awarded a silver
Banksian medal for a bright group of decorative plants, comprising Azaleas,
Cytisuses, Spiraeas, Ericas, Hyacinths, Cinerarias, Richardias, &c. , tastefully
arranged. A, bronze medal was also accorded to Mr Aldous, Gloucester Road,
for a similar group. Messrs W. Paul & Son, "Waltham Cross, exhibited ten
boxes of fine Camellia blooms. Alba plena being particularly fine, — and other
good varieties were L'Avenir, excellent form, clear pink ; Countess of Derby,
similar but larger ; Reine des Fleurs, fine crimson, very useful variety ; Ninfa
Egeria, white, good substance and excellent form ; Fimbriata, white, very
symmetrical ; and Mathotiana, a large flower, rich crimson colour. A silver
Banksian medal was awarded. Mr R. Dean, Ealing, sent some pretty Prim-
roses; and a group of plants was contributed from Chiswick, containing a
good assortment of useful decorative plants, the fine specimens of Pteris serru-
lata cristata major being especially noticeable.

Mr S. Ford, The Gardens, Leonardslee, Horsbam, staged a very fine collec-
tion of Apples and Pears in excellent condition. The Apples were the most
numerous, and were greatly admired for their plump fresh appearance. About
sixty dishes were shown, and the silver Banksian medal awarded was well
deserved.

First-class certificates were awarded for the following plants : —

Cineraria Mr H. Little (James). — A very distinct and striking variety, quite
a new break in Cinerarias. It might be appropriately called tricolor, for the
flowers have three clearly marked concentric bands of colour, the marginal one
about a quarter of an inch wide, deep maroon, the next crimson, and the centre
white. The flowers are of good form, about 1^ inch in diameter.

Primula The Queen. — Mr J. Tomkins, Showell Green Nurseries, Birming-
ham, obtained a certificate for this variety, the flowers of which were fully 2^
inches in diameter, of fine substance and good outline, but not so flat as might
be desired. It is one of the Fern-leaved type, of neat habit, the colour of the
flowers being white with a slight pink tinge and a yellow eye.

Phaius tuberculosus (Sir Trevor Lawrence). — A remarkable and pretty
Orchid from Madagascar. The leaves were similar to those marking the genus,
but not so large as in the majority of species. The flowers were 2 inches
across, in spikes about 9 inches high ; the sepals and petals ovate acute and
white, the upper slightly arching ; the lip was about 1,^ inch long and 1 inch
broad, constricted in the middle ; the base and sides were yellow, thickly

i88i.] CALENDAR. 191

dotted with a reddish tint, with a tuft of yellow hairs at the base, and
three bright yellow ridges in the centre ; the apex was white and pink, with a
crisped margin. Four to six flowers were borne in a spike.

Cyclamen persicum, vars. Lilian Cox and Charming Bride (Edmonds). — These
were two good white varieties, very similar in appearance, but differing slightly
in the breadth of the petals, which in both were of good width and substance.
The habit was compact and the flowers numerous.

Amaryllis John Heal (Veitch). — Flowers of excellent form; division broad,
white at the tip with a band down the centre, deep scarlet at the sides, green-
ish in the centre. Certainly one of the finest formed Amaryllises that have
been obtained ; the broad and rounded petals and good general outline render-
ing it unsurpassed in that respect.

Amaryllis Royal Standard (Veitch). — Flowers neat in form and size, similar
to the last in colour, but richer and with less green in the centre.

Amaryllis Miss Alice Gair (Veitch). — Large flower ; broad divisions of a very
rich vermilion colour. An excellent variety, and scarcely equalled in brilliancy
of tint.

Asplenium Baptistii (Williams). — A very distinct species with bipinnate
fronds 1 foot to 18 inches long ; the pinnaB narrow, serrated, dark green, half
an inch broad, and 3 to 5 inches long. The plant is a native of the South
Sea Islands, and was introduced about two years ago. It was certificated by
the Royal Botanic Society last year.

Imantophyllum miniatum Martha Reimers (Williams), — A noble variety of
Imantophyllum obtained by Mr Williams from the Continent. The plant
shown had fine rich green leaves 2 feet or more in length ; two umbels of
flowers, one on a peduncle 2 feet in height, and comprising nearly thirty large
blooms. The corollas are 3 to 4 inches long, brilliant orange-scarlet, with a
lighter centre. We give the name as rendered by Mr Williams, but we presume
the variety is the same as that figured in the ' Flore des Serres ' last year as
Marie Reimers, and which was one of several in Van Houtte's nursery raised
by M. Theodore Reimers, gardener to Madame Donner, near Hamburg. — Jowr-
nal of Horticulture.

©aUnftan

FORCING DEPAETMENT.

Pines. — Plants that were shifted I noon to run the heat up to 85° for a
four or five weeks since into their | short time — at the same time dew-
fruiting-pots, will, if treated as directed iug the plants slightly overhead, and

last month, have begun to lay hold
of the fresh soil, and to show signs of
growing freely. Care must be taken
to prevent a too rapid pace of growth

damping vacant surfaces and walls, so
as to have a moist atmosphere while
the heat is high. Do not let the night
temperature exceed 65° as long as the

for the present, while a good deal of j nights are cold, calling for consider-

fi re-heat is necessary to keep up the
temperature. The bottom-heat should
not be allowed to range higher than
from 85° to 90°, the former being
quite high enough for young growing
stock. When the days are light, avoid
having much heat in the pipes, and
shut up sufficiently early in the after-

able firing. High night-temperatures
tell injuriously on Pines very quickly,
and should always be avoided. Let
the ventilation be regulated according
to the state of the weather, and let it
be attended to in the morning as soon
as the heat gets to about 57°, in-
creasing the amount of air gradually

192

THE GARDENER.

[April

till 2 o'clock, when it should be grad-
ually reduced. See that the soil is
kept just damp euough to jnoinote
healthy fresh growth, avoiding dryness
and overmuch watering. The early
started Queens will now be swelling
their fruit rapidly, and must have
every encouragement. Keep them
steadily moist by waterings of manure
made from guano and sheep-droppings.
Shut them up early so as to have a
high temperature from sun - heat in
the evening, allowing it to drop to
70° by 10 P.M. Let the air be kept
moist in proportion to the heat.
Syringe the surface of the bed, and
give the plants a dewing overhead :
avoiding wetting the crowns much, or
they will grow more than is sightly.
The bottom-heat for these should be
kept as steadily as possible about 90°.
Until fruit that are about fully swol-
len begin to colour, treat them as
directed for the early Queens ; but
when colouring commences, give them
more air and less moisture to develop
flavour. Smooth Cayennes and Char-
lotte Rothschilds that are wanted to
start six weeks or two months hence,
should be kept cooler and rather drier
for the next month ; but do not carry
this treatment so far as to crijiple or
stunt the plants. A time of compara-
tive rest makes it the more likely
that they will fruit when required.
Any portion of the stock that are well
rooted in small pots should be shifted
at once. If shaken out or much
disturbed at the root, more shade will
be desirable than earlier in the season,
until they take with the shift.

Vines. — The winter and early part
of spring having been so very cold,
necessitating so much fire-heat, it is to
be feared that the foliage of early Vines
may not be so robust as is desirable,
and no doubt red spider will be more
troublesome. No amount of attention
should be considered too much to
keep the destructive pest under. At
this early season, the best way we
have ever adopted is to keep a sharp
look-out for its first appearance, and
to sponge it off with a soft sponge and
a little soapy water. A man can go
over a great deal of foliage in this
way in a short time. As soon as
colouring commences in the case of
pot - Vines, do not give any more
strong liquid manure. Increase the
air, and keep the soil sufficiently moist

to well sustain the Vines. The reduc-
tion of water at the root to an extent
that tells on the system of the plants
is a mistaken ])ractice, sometimes ad-
opted with the idea of having better-
ilavoured Grapes. Where the crops
have begun to colour on permanent
Vines, having their roots chiefly in
inside borders, examine the soil, and
if in need of water, give them a soak-
ing that will carry them on till the
Grapes are cut, or nearly so. Later
Vines, in whatever stages of progress,
should not be subject to high night-
temperatures : it is the greatest evil
that can be perpetrated on Amines
otherwise in good condition. Fine
leathery dark-green foliage, free from
the attacks of insects, can never be
produced with high night-temperature
and a stagnant atmosphere. We
would much rather have Black Ham-
burgs at 55° than 65° all through this
month. A line crisp growth and
strong foliage, with dew-drops round
their edge in the morning — the whole
plants having a fresh healthy look —
is the result of moderate night- tem-
perature and judicious ventilation.
The forcing should be done by day
under the influence of light and sun-
heat ; and when the vineries are shut
up in the afternoon with a high tem-
perature, we like to shut the ven-
tilators closely, opening them accord-
ing to the weather at six o'clock.
All growing Vines will now require
constant attention. Whenever the
best bunches can be discerned in the
broad points of the buds, rub off all
superfluous ones, leaving one to a
spur. Stop the points of the shoots
two joints beyond the best bunches.
By the best bunches we mean the
most compact and strongest -limbed
ones. All the most loose and weak-
limbed bunches should be removed.
As soon as the shoots can be brought
down to the wires, tie them in their
places. This operation has to be done
by degrees, especially in the case of
strong black Hamburg Vines. Thin the
berries of free-setting sorts early, for
when the berries get larger the opera-
tion takes more time, and it gives the
Vines needless work to do in swelling
useless berries. Regarding the stop-
ping of lateral growths, our practice is
when the main shoots are very short
jointed, and the leaves consequently
thickly set, to remove entirely the lat-

i88i.]

CALENDAR

193

erals; but when the joints are longer,
r.hey are stopped ac the tirst leaf.
Black Hamburg especially colour best
in shade. Muscats, Gros Colmar, and
some others, colour best with more
light.

Peaches and Nectarines. — In early
houses where the stoning stage is past,
the temperature may be 60° in cold
and 65° in mild weather, if it be
wished to have the fruit ripe as soon
as possible. Take every opportunity
of shutting up early with sun-heat, at
the same time syringing the trees
with tepid water. If the inside
border be dry, and the trees be old,
give a good soaking with manure-
water. Examine the trees carefully,
and see that the crop is not too heavj',
and that too many young growths
have not been tied in, and remove
some fruit and shoots rather than
have too many to injure the tree.
Disbud the growths and thin the fruit
by degrees in succession- houses. Keep
a sharp look-out for green-fly, and if
it appears, fumigate with tobacco in
two successive nights, and syringe the
trees with clean water the following
day. Give abundance of air to crops
that are wanted for ripening late.

Figs. — Old'- established trees with
their roots in narrow inside borders,
that are bearing heavy crops, will
require copious waterings of manure-
water to keep the border moist.
Syringe the trees every fine afternoon
until the fruit begins to ripen, when

the house must be kept drier. Let
the night-temperature range about 60°
unless it be very mild, when it may be
65°. Tie the young growths to the
trellis, and avoid crowding them. In
fact, no more young wood should be left
than is enough for next year's crop.

Melons. — Sow and plant out suc-
cession crops. Increase the moisture
in both the air and soil in the case of
plants that have set full croj^s of fruit.
Keep the heat at 70°, with 10° or 15°
more by day with sun. Look over
those in bloom at mid-day, and im-
pregnate them. Stop the laterals one
leaf beyond the fruit. Support the
j fruits when they begin to swell and
i become a strain upon the shoots.
I Cucumbers. — Mulch the borders of
j those in full bearing with some horse-
i droppings and fresh loam in equal
j proportions. Shut up early in the
j afternoon with sun-heat, rising to 85°
j for a time, and syringe the leaves with
tepid water several times weekly.
Look over the plants every few days,
and stop young growths at every
joint. The night-temperature should
be from 72° to 75° at 10 p.m., dropping
a few degrees lower by morning.

Strawberries in Pots.— See former
calendars. Introduce more plants into
heat. Keep red-spider in check by
syringing all plants not in bloom, and
that are not colouring fruits. Place
plants from which the crop is gathered
in cold frames, to be hardened off
before being planted out.

KITCHEN-GAEDEN.

All soil to receive seeds and plants
should now be finely broken, and
otherwise ready for seeds. Sow in
drills lightly drawn, and cover with
fine light soil should the natural soil
be heavy and tenacious. Treading in
the seed should only be done when
soil is dry, and not likely to become
battered after the operation.

Successions should be kept up by
frequent sowings. This applies to
Peas, Beans, Cauliflowers, Cabbage
(if always wanted young). Spinach,
Turnips, Onions for Salads, Rad-
ishes, Carrots for drawing, young
French Beans every fortnight (on
warm borders, first and last sowings).
Scarlet Runners may be sown as edg-
ings to be kept dwarf, or in rows wide
apart to be staked. These Beans do

well to shut out manure - heaps or
other unsightly objects which cannot
be dispensed with. Examine early
sowings of any seeds, and if they are
not vegetating, sow again. Any kind
may be sown this month with every
expectation of success. Prepare for
and sow Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts,
Savoys, Kales of sort.«», and any others
of the Brassica tribe. Red - lead
among the seed may keep olF birds
and slugs. Transplant all young
plants before they become too thick.
Lettuce are especially easily injured
by being too long in the seed-rows.
(We say rows, as we take it for grant-
ed that broadcast sowing has long
ceased as a practice.) Asparagus seed
may be sown, and young plants may
be plaeed carefully in the ground

194

THE GARDENER

April 1881.

where they are to remain for use.
The surface should he rinely broken
over, and a dustini^ of salt given, suc-
ceeded by a dusting of guano in
showery weather. Plant out thongs
of Seakale about .3 or 4 inches long ;
rich deep soil is de><irable for this
vegetal)le. If a quantity is behind a
wall, hedge, or other shady position
for late supplies, cover with sand,
old tan, or any otlior light soil to
blanch it. Close-titting boxes (air-
tight) or pots will answer the pur[)ose.
Plant Rhubarb in rich ground. Sow
a pinch of Beet early in the month
for tirst supply — but main crops are
early enough last week of month to
first week in May. Deep, finely broken
soil, free from rank manure, suits Beet.
Tie up Lettuce to blanch. vSmall
Salads may be sown under hand-
lights. Celery may be sown under
hand-lights and plant-protectors, or
in open borders. Protection from

frost should be used. Bring up all ar-
rears advised last month. As a remin-
der, look carefully over a catalogue
of relial)le character, and note what
should be planted and sown. Calcu-
late the extent of land at command,
and the rjuantities required, and regu-
late the crops accordingly. A glut
at one time and scarcity at another
defeat the object of utilising a priv-
ate garden. French Beans now forc-
ing are easily managed. They re-
quire abundance of moisture from the
syringe, and manure-water [)lentifully
when pots or beds are well filled with
roots. Sow Gherkins, Vegetable ^lar-
rows. Ridge Cucumbers, more Toma-
toes if wanted by middle of month.
Hoe and prong wherever it is required
to advance crops. Dust sawdust and
lime wherever slugs appear. Order
and absence of weeds should be every-
where. M. T.

— -S'i-^'i'^^^^-

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in the ' Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We
decline noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and
address of writer.

Jonx Wills. — If you will turn to page 574 of our volume for 1880, you will
there find a special notice of the very liberal prizes you are offering for fruit
at the Edinburgh Show, 1882. In our March issue you will at page 135 see
notice of your Manchester prizes for next September.

E/OBERT Greenfield. — The blooms of Double Cineraria, Mrs Thomas Lloyd,
came to hand in good condition. It is by far the finest Double Cineraria yet
offered, and cannot fail to be popular : the blooms are nearly 2 inches in
diameter, globular, and of a rich purplish crimson.

A. S. — The box in which you sent the leaves was smashed to pieces, by the
post-office stamp no doubt. We cannot, however, undertake to name plants
from leaves even if they reach us in good condition.

THE

GARDENER.

MAY 1 88 1.

NOTES.

[QUATIC plants are now becoming more generally appre-
ciated, and this is especially true of the small -growing
kinds. Salvinia natans, Azolla (pinnata) Caroliniana,
Triansea bogotensis, Pistia stratiotes, and Myriophyllum
proserpinoides are all worth a place, and may all be
easily grown in small pans or inverted bell-glasses in a stove tem-
perature. During the summer months the Azolla, Salvinia, and My-
riophyllum grow freely enough in tubs or sheltered open-air tanks.
A friend to whom I gave Salvinia last season, used it with excellent
effect as a substitute for the sprig of flower or leaf in finger-glasses ;
and I have no doubt Mr Wills could show off these little curiosities to
advantage in those miniature lakes with which he so artistically embel-
lishes his ice-rockeries or Filmy-Fern glades.

Ouvirandra fenestralis is well known as one of the most rare and
curious of all aquatics. Its cultivation, however, is not always a suc-
cess. The following are, I think, essential to its wellbeing : 1. Pure
soft rain or river water. 2. Pure fibrous peat, and a little silver-sand
as compost. 3. A pot as small as possible. 4. The water to be re-
freshed twice daily, morning and evening, by watering overhead with
a fine-rosed water-pot. 5. Dense shade : direct sunlight is fatal by
browning the leaves and favouring the growth of confervse. 6. An
opaque-sided pan or slate-tank to grow it in. 7. Temperature of water
never below 60°. 8. A large body of compost at the bottom of the pan
or tank is bad, as when planted out in this it is difficult to remove the
plant, if the earth around it becomes vitiated or sour. Our plant

o

19G THE GARDKNRR. [May

is now making nice fresh leaves, 10 inches long in the blade by 4
inches wide. In dense shade and in pure soft water this plant is by
no means of slow growth.

One of the finest of all Orchids now in blossom is the old but ever
lovely Cymbidium eburneum. Its culture is now becoming better
understood. It used to be grown in peat, and with care succeeded
moderately well ; but of late years a loamy compost hi^s been found to
suit it far better, and, so grown, its blossoms come larger and expand
better. Mr Spyers was, I believe, one of the first to try the plant in
loam, and he had his reward the other day when he brought a speci-
men to South Kensington bearing sixteen flowers ! The leaves are
gracefully grass-like, curving in a pleasing way, the one or two great
Lycaste-like flowers being borne on erect stems a foot or more in height.
It is wonderful how this plant roots into the lumps of loam; and those
who do not bloom it well in peat should give it a loamy compost at
once.

Dendrobium fimbriatum oculatum is not one of the most modern, or
fashionable, or expensive of Orchids, but it is a robust grower, and,
under ordinary culture, rarely disappoints one. It comes in well for
April or May exhibitions also, and is showy enough for grouping with
other flowering exotics. We have a plant just now bearing fifty spikes
of from eight to fourteen flowers each, and the effect is quite brilliant
enough ; besides which, the spikes come in well for cut-flowers. It is
necessary to bear in mind, however, that as the flowers are produced
several years in succession from different nodes or joints of the same
old bulbs, the bulb itself should not be cut away with the flowers.

There are one or two annuals that are not generally known, and so
they are rarely met with in gardens. One of the most showy (on hot
dry soils it is especially brilliant) is Venidium calendulaceum. The
flowers are more vivid than those of Calendula officinalis, and the
habit of the plant is neater and better in all ways. A bed of it here
last year attracted much attention. It was recommended to me by the
late Miss J. Hope of Wardie Lodge, and that is perhaps the best I can
say of it. Another tiny plant, quite different but still very pretty, is
lonopsidium acaule, a fully developed specimen of which is about 1^
inch in height and 2 inches in diameter. It has a mossy appear-
ance, and is studded with pretty little lilac cup-shaped flowers, each of
four petals. For the margin of a rockery or the front of a herbaceous
border it is charming, and it may be successfully grown in small pots
for greenhouse or window decoration.

Daffodils are now in perfection on this 11th day of April 1881:
locality near Dublin Bay. There was some sense in a remark a gar-
dening friend made to me the other day. " Oh yes," said he, " I

i88i.] NOTES. 197

know the varieties are interminable, but tell me the names of the best
thirteen varieties in the whole family/' Here they are in what I con-
sider their order of merit : Narcissus maximus, N. Horsfieldii, N.
Emperor, N. Empress (for size), N. obvallaris, N. Bulbocodium (for
pots), N. poeticus, N. minor, N. princeps, N. incomparabilis, N. odor-
us, N. Tazetta (for pots), N. jonquilla (for fragrance).

For really robust, hardy, and effective kinds, take N. maximus and
N. Horsfieldii, both as hardy as the common wild Daffodil, and im-
measurably more stately and effective as garden flowers.

A good spring-flowering greenhouse climber is Clematis indivisa
lobata, which for a month at least has been covered with its pure-
white star-shaped flowers. It grows rapidly, and is singularly free
from insect enemies, and its blossoms come in at a time when choice
and long-enduring flowers are valuable. A large dish fringed with Ivy
leaves and filled with the flowers of this Clematis and those of the
scarlet Pan Anemone (A. fulgens), has been a nine days' wonder to all
who have seen it. I know of no other plant which gives such rapid
and good return for its culture as this ; and it should find a place in
every greenhouse or conservatory, if not there already.

There are a good many sides to the hardy-plant question, and one
well worth looking at is their importance and adaptability for forcing
into bloom early in the year. Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocus, Lily of the
Valley, Solomon's Seal, Tea Roses, Lilac, Deutzia, Spiraea, Narcissus,
Scilla, Helleborus niger. Tree Ppeonias, and many other things equally
familiar, are perfectly hardy. Seeing that hardy plants are so adapt-
able, the question naturally arises whether we make the most of them
in this way. There is a desire for variety abroad, and those who
would profit most by it should keep an eye on hardy bulbs and experi-
ment on their forcing qualities. One London florist made o£70 last
season by forced flowers of Narcissus poeticus alone. " I tried it last
season," he told me, "in an accidental way. In the autumn I was
planting Black Currants under my Plum-trees, and had to displace
some old plantations of Narcissus. When I saw the crop of bulbs dug
out, the idea suddenly came into my head to try and force them for
early flowers ! The first year they were wellnigh a failure, so far as
quantity of flowers went ; but the flowers sold so well that I resolved
to master their culture. We mulched the pots with leaf-mould, and as
the leaves turned yellow, allowed them to dry off under a north wall ;
and the result was that, from the same pots, we this season cut flowers
in March by the thousand ! " The moral is, when you experiment in
forcing hardy flowers, and fail the first time, don't give up in despair,
but try again. The addition of a new flower into the trade is not all
couleur de rose ; but if a thing " takes," the man who can supply it, and
enjoys somewhat of a monopoly, is sure to reap his reward.

198 THE GARDENER. [May

Orchids generally are cheaper than formerly was the case ; but at
Mr Day's sale the other day, the unique broad-petalled variety of
Stone's Cypripedium fetched 140 guineas, or £42 in excess of any
price ever before paid for a single Orchid of any kind ! Sir Trevor
Lawrence was the purchaser. I only remember three instances in
which the price paid for a single specimen reached i-'lOO before this
case. Firstly, the late Duke of Devonshire gave it for one of the two
first plants of PhaLnsnopsis brought by Mr Cuming from the Philippines.
Then Lord Londesborough gave £100 for an immense plant of Den-
drobium Wardianum imported by Messrs Low and sold by auction by
Mr Stevens.* Then that splendid plant of Vanda cjwrulea grown by
Mr Lowe at Henley-on-Thames was sold by auction for £80, and
eventually changed hands at the lowest value of any three figures.
After all, these fancy prices are not altogether satisfactory ; and I have
no doubt that those who pay moderate prices for some of the more
common but not less beautiful kinds, derive more satisfaction in return
for their money. Every one to his taste, however.

It is no matter of doubt as to whether the Land Question will afi'ect
horticulture. It has affected it in some localities very sensibly ; and
not only in Ireland, but throughout England and Scotland, the depres-
sing influence must be felt. Bad seasons, foreign competition, and
other causes less evident, have lowered the value of land everywhere.
At present Ireland, where everybody depends on the land for a liveli-
hood, feels the pressure most heavily ; but the influence must become
general. It costs more to send produce from Lancashire to London
than from New York to Liverpool, — in fact, in every way our own
growers are heavily handicapped. Pient-rates, taxes, high freightage or
carriage, and an inferior climate, all co-operate against them. Where
all this will end it is difficult to see. At any rate, it seems probable
that " free trade " will prove a very expensive article of faith even in
our own time. F. W. Burbidge.

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

NO. IV. — CHOROZEMAS.

Chorozemas are very beautiful, free - flowering, evergreen shrubs,
natives of Australia. They are easily cultivated, and produce very
freely their bright-coloured, pea-flower-shaped blossoms during the
spring and summer months. As plants for decorating the conserva-
tory or greenhouse during the time indicated, Chorozemas are of much
value, and when large enough, and in good condition, they are amongst
the best of exhibition plants. Apart from the beauty of their flowers,
they have several qualities to recommend them for the latter purpose,
amongst which may be mentioned their quick-growing habit, in con-
* The late A. B. Stewart, Esq., gave £100 for a plant of Yaiula Lowii. — Eu.

iSSi.] GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 199

sequence of which it only requires a few years to form them into fair-
sized specimens suitable for the exhibition-table. Then their flower-
ing season may be prolonged for a considerable length of time, by
retarding the growth of some plants through placing them in a cool
airy position, and accelerating that of others through subjecting them
to slight forcing, both of which may be done without injuriously
affecting the plants ; and again, with due care, Chorozemas may be
taken to and from the exhibition without injury either to the plants
or their flowers. This latter quality alone should secure for them the
patronage of plant exhibitors, as it is well known many beautiful
flowering-plants cannot undergo the vicissitudes consequent upon
their removal to and from the place of exhibition, without their crop
of flowers being destroyed at the time, and not unfrequently resulting
in the death of the plants. Hence plants that produce beautiful
flowers, as in the case of Chorozemas, and that can undergo without
injury the exposure consequent upon taking part in a horticultural
exhibition, are of more value, from the plant exhibitor's point of view,
than those which cannot do so.

Chorozemas are increased by either seeds or cuttings. Plants
raised from seed, however, are preferable to those raised by cuttings.
The seeds may be sown any time from January to August, but the
earlier in the season the better. A compost of equal parts of peat and
silver sand is suitable to sow them in. The pot or pan in which they
are about to be sown should be properly drained, and the remaining
space filled with the compost pressed firmly down to within three-
quarters of an inch or so of the rim or top of the pot, making the
surface smooth, on which the seeds are to be strewn as evenly as pos-
sible, and covered with a quarter of an inch or so of the compost, pres-
sing it firmly on the seeds. This done, give a nice watering without
disturbing the compost placed over the seed, and plunge the pot con-
taining them in a mild bottom-heat, and place a bell-glass over it ;
shade from sunshine, attend to watering, and in due time, if the seeds
are good, the young plants will appear. As soon as they are fit to
handle, they should be transplanted singly into small pots, using a
compost similar to that in which the seeds were sown. After the seed-
lings are pricked out, give them a good watering, and plunge the pots
containing them in a bottom-heat similar to that in which they were
raised ; then place hand-lights or bell-glasses over them, and shade
closely for a week or so, until the roots of the little plants have taken
hold of the fresh soil ; after which time, gradually inure to more light
and air. As soon as they have become established, they should be re-
moved from the bottom-heat ; but it is well to plunge the pots in which
they are growing for a while longer in some light material, such as
cocoa-nut fibre or sawdust : this will prevent injury to their roots
through sudden drought, and consequently preserve the health of the
plants. They should now be placed in an airy position as near to

200 THE GARDENER. [May

the glass as possible, and iii future stages of their growth a similar
jjosition in the structure in which they are placed should be given
them. As soon as they are about 3 inches high, they should have
the points of the leading shoots nipped or cut out, which will induce
them to push out three or four shoots, thereby forming a foundation
for the future plants. The second year of their existence they
should be repotted about the beginning of April, and again about
the first week of August, and on neither occasion should they be
over-potted — that is, the pots to which they are transferred should not
be much larger than those they previously occupied. In the future
years of their growth an annual repotting will be all that is required ;
and when they occupy pots of a size that it is not desirable to in-
crease, they will, if the drainage is all right, remain healthy for several
years without repotting.

After Chorozemas become established, they should be potted in a
compost of good fibry loam and coarse river-sand, in the proportion of
three parts in the bulk of the former to one of the latter, thoroughly
w^ell mixed together before being applied to the roots of the i>lants.
When repotting them, the fresh soil should be made moderately firm
as the process goes on. During the period of active growth, they re-
quire liberal supplies of water to the roots ; and it is essential to their
wellbeing that a ready exit be provided for any superabundance that at
any time may be given. To secure this, the cultivator should, when
the plants are being repotted, provide them with ample and efficient
drainage, and thereby guard against the evil results of stagnant water
and soured soil coming in contact wdth their roots. It has been pre-
viously pointed out in the ' Gardener,' that the efficiency of the drainage
depends as much or nearly so upon the arrangement of the materials
as upon the quantity supplied ; and this should be kept in mind,
particularly by the young cultivator, and especially when repotting
specimen plants that have to remain for a considerable length of time
in the same pot without being disturbed at the roots. Chorozemas
being slender-growing plants, they require staking and training into
shape ; and the cultivator, owing to their slender habit, may train
them into any shape that he fancies — but in my opinion, that of a
blunt cone is the most desirable form. After the plants become
sufficiently large for the purpose that they are intended for, they
should be annually pruned or cut back immediately after the flower-
ing season is past ; and this is also the proper time to clean them
from scale or other insects with which they may be affected. Like all
plants cultivated under similar circumstances and employed for similar
purposes, Chorozemas must be kept free from insect-pests ; and the
means previously recommended to be used in the case of other plants
applies to them, and need not be repeated here. The following are
the three best species that I know of : C. cordata splendens, C.
Henchmanii, C. varia Chandlerii. J. Hammond.

i88i.] FRUIT -CULTURE. 201

FRUIT- CULTURE.

THE APrLE.

The Apple is undoubtedly the most useful of fruits, hardy or other-
wise, and is appreciated by old and young, rich and poor, alike. Not
very many years ago our supplies were home-grown ; but, like beef
and bread, we are now indebted, to a great extent, to America for a
very large quantity of the finest Apples. It is alleged that there
are sufficient Apples to spare in the United States and Canada to
fully supply this country, and of better quality than we are able to
produce even in our best fruit-growing districts. And yet we feel
confident that, on suitable soils, and in favourable localities, Apple-
growing will be a paying occupation for a long while to come. Unless
prices are to be remunerative, growers in America will not care about
supplying us ; and we may take some comfort from the fact that if
land is cheaper there, labour is cheaper here. Of course they have the
advantage in the matter of climate ; but this only applies to the grow-
ing of fine kinds — for there are many square miles, altogether, in this
country where Apples may be grown, with ss certain a chance of a crop
as in America, if quantities of trustworthy kinds are grown. This
means, that if we will retreat at those parts of the line where we are
beaten, and concentrate our forces where we are able to hold our own,
the day, so far, may yet be ours. It is of no use our trying to com-
pete with the Americans in the production of the finest dessert Apples,
for there our climate fails us. We may grow fine Apples as heretofore,
but we must admit the fact at once that we can never do so remunera-
tively— at least, with our present varieties — for our fine kinds are not
to be depended on for a crop ; and unless we are to have kinds which
are certain croppers, we may as well give in at once. Kitchen Apples
will always be needed, and in increasing quantities too ; for people of
all grades are awaking to the fact that fruits are necessaries of life, and
not merely luxuries,- as they have been hitherto regarded.

"With such facts as these before our eyes, we do not think we would
do right if we advised the amateur grower, who may know nothing at
all of the subject, to buy and plant fine sorts in a small garden. We
have seen this done, and seen the bitter disappointment when, after
years of spending and hoping, the result was bare trees year after
year.

This is addressed to those who plant that they may reap ; who prefer
crops with something like regularity — even although the quality is not
the very best — rather than a few very fine fruits now and again at
intervals of years. Possibly others may go in for quality and risk the
chance of a crop. We will endeavour to meet the requirements of all
parties, but we add again — it is cheaper to buy the finest Apples j while,
under certain conditions, it is cheaper to produce ordinary kinds than
to buy them.

202 THE GARDENER. [May

Soil. — We think that soil is tlie most important thing to consider in
the planting of Apple-trees. Climate is no doubt an important factor
in the production of first-class crops, but there are not many districts
south of the Grampians where the climate is so bad that fine crops of
Apples may not be produced if the soil is a proper one. Now we wish
to impress our readers with this fact, for this is where the majority of
inexperienced persons err : it is useless to plant orchard-trees on land
where the farmer fears to allow his plough to penetrate more than 5
inches ; and yet we could name places where such a thing has been done.
We know that ninety-nine out of every hundred of cottage and villa
gardeners have no power to help themselves in this matter, — they must
'' take the ford as they find it." When the soil is extremely thin, only
dwarf trees should be grown, although dwarfs may be grown on any
soil. Our best orchards everywhere are on deep heavy land ; and
unless the soil is, or can be made, 2 feet deep at the very least, and 3
feet if possible, we would not advise the planting of what are known as
Standards. Yet no trees give less trouble and yield more in the long
run. If the soil is light and deep it will do very well for the same
l)urpose, and road -scrapings or clayey soil will do it much good.
Heavy soil may be improved by the opposite treatment. Eoad-scrap-
ings from off sandy roads will do much good, and such is generally more
attainable by the grower on a small scale than light loam or sandy
soil, although these should be secured if they are to be obtained.
Ashes (screened), sand, leaf-mould, peat, and other suchlike substances
are also valuable. Drainage is also necessary ; for no fruit-tree will
thrive where the soil is saturated with water.

In preparing the ground for the reception of the trees, it should be
trenched to its full depth, but only the best soil thrown on the top.
The bottom should be dug over (or picked if need be), so that the air
and rain may penetrate and escape freely. Between the three upper
layers of earth, layers of manure should be placed — thick or thin as the
land is poor or rich — and a dressing of lime, unless the soil is on chalk
or limestone, over the surface. This operation may be done during
winter. The season following we would take a crop of Potatoes off
the ground, and work the ground properly. The result will be a well-
prepared soil, on which the trees will be sure to grow if they are
healthy when planted, and properly taken care of afterwards. Of
course, if the trees are to be dotted about in the vegetable-garden, the
whole garden need not be trenched ; nor will it be necessary to wait a
year on the ground preparing. When the ground is in good condition,
and properly drained, the trees may be at once planted. When the
land is once properly prepared, the operation of planting is the same
in all cases.

Position. — In gardens, Apple and other fruit trees are planted along the sides
of the walks, and against the walls. If no other place is available, then these
are the best places. Standards should be planted not nearer to the walk than 5

i8Si.] FRUIT- CULTURE. 203

feet, and not nearer each other in the rows than 20 feet, or else in a few years
nothing will grow between them. "We don't recommend such trees for small
gardens at all; for a very few trees would swallow up the whole space and
leave room for nothing else in a short time. Trees of this kind are only suit-
able for large gardens. Indeed we do not recommend the planting of trees at
all in gardens which are to be annually cropped with vegetables. It is bad
for the vegetables, and it is bad for the trees. We recommend that such trees
— and indeed all fruit-trees— should be planted by themselves. We don't
care although only half-a-dozen trees are to be planted — we say, plant them by
themselves. If there is over an eighth of an acre available for the purpose,
make an or.CHARD. If there is no other place, plant dwarfs in a quarter by
themselves in the vegetable garden. In preparing soil for dwarfs it does not
need to be so deeply dug — otherwise the preparation is the same. For dwarf
trees, 12 inches of good soil will do; and we have seen good results with only 6,

Planting.— The end of October is the best time of the year for planting fruit-
trees. Plant only where the soil is dry. Orchard - trees on good deep soil
should stand 25 feet apart after they have fully grown. Mark the rows then
at 25 feet apart. This will leave a good deal of unoccupied space, so it
may be as well to plant the trees 12^ feet apart in the rows. In this case
every alternate tree is to be lifted before it crowds its neighbours. Trees of
this kind, when planted on soil prepared as we have described, need very
little trouble afterwards; but they are years in coming into bearing, and
are only suitable for those who have room to form a regular orchard, or
who have a large vegetable garden. For those whose ground is limited —
and most cottage and villa tenants and owners have only small spots — we
would recommend a miniature orchard. A miniature Apple-orchard should
be planted with trees of the English Paradise Apple stock ; for on these,
especially when root-pruning is practised, the trees grow dwarfer, and bear
fruit more plentifully and sooner than when on the free (or seedling) stock, which
is the one suitable for large orchard-trees. Anybody having a plot of ground
50 feet or so square, may have three dozen of trees, if trees on these stocks
are planted at between 7 and 8 feet apart. At this distance occasional root-
pruning will be required, even on these dwarfing stocks. Those who have
only a small plot to devote to Apple cultivation had better plant trees 6
feet apart each way. These trees require to be kept in small bulk ; and for
this purpose, trees grafted on the Doucin, or French Paradise Apple stock,
should be planted. Mr Rivers, in 'The Miniature Fruit-Garden,' advises
the planting of such trees as these much closer together than what we have
advised ; but we have had something to do with orchards planted on Rivers's
plan, and we consider that the room which we have recommended is little
enough. Cottage and villa owners could not do better than procure Mr
Rivers's little book, and well study its teachings ; but our experience is, that
the excessive restriction which is there recommended, is not suitable. We
will not criticise Mr Rivers's teaching. His indomitable perseverance and
enthusiasm we admire. We feel grateful to him, and honour his memory for
the great work he did for Pomology ; but we think that, for ordinary growers,
and more especially for beginners, a less tied-down system, if we may so ex-
press ourselves, is more worthy of recommendation. We therefore advise
beginners to allow their trees the distance named.

Perhaps we ought to say that only young healthy trees should be planted ; and
trees which have been repeatedly cut back to keep them small, are neither young

204: THE GARDKiNER. [ALav

nor healthy. To make sure of getting proper plants, it may be as well to select
the trees personally, and to get them from nurserymen who have a reputation
to lose; for it is no uncommon thing for worthless kinds to be Bold under fine
names.

Having got the ground ready, and the trees to hand, mark the precise places
where they are to be planted, and dig the holes as large as will allow of the
roots being spread out on all sides. On dry soils the holes may be 8 inches
deep, and on wet ones 4. IMake the bottom perfectly flat and firm. On this
firm bottom spread an inch of pulverised soil, from off the surface, and put
the tree on it. Any strong or broken roots should be shortened back with a
sharp knife, for all cuts must be short and clean : every fibry root must be
saved. Only dry pulverised soil should be placed next the roots, and care-
fully worked in among them ; and if the soil is of a vrry heavy description, it
will be well to have a heap of such soil prepared beforehand. On dry soils the
ground should be left level ; on clayey land it should be raised — heaped up
round the tree — 2 or 3 inches ; and in all cases it should be made thor-
oughly firm, so that heavy rain may not have a chance to water-log, and so
sour it, and that the roots may have something firm to lay hold on. A stout
stake should be driven in beside each, and the tree securely fastened to it, to
prevent it rocking when winds are high, otherwise all young roots will perish
as fast as they form. Between the trees and the stakes some soft material
should be placed to prevent the stakes chafing the bark. Old cloth, matting,
or even straw-rope will do. Lastly, put a circle of partially decayed manure,
3 inches thick, over their roots, and beat it firmly and neatly down with
the back of a fork. This covering will protect the tender roots from frost in
winter and drought in summer, and every rain-drop that falls on it will take
food down to the roots as they stretch through the soil in search of nourishment.

A. H., H.
{To he continued.)

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF WALL - BORDERS IN
KITCHEN-GARDENS.

NO. V.

North borders. — The aim of all good gardeners is to extend the dura-
tion of crops, whether of fruit or vegetables, over as great a period
as possible, various schemes being resorted to as circumstances may
suggest. A quarter for one thing and a quarter for another is all
very well in its way ; but it is not the most scientifically managed
gardens that yield the most satisfactory results. Much scheming
is absolutely necessary, especially in small gardens. According to
my experience, there are but few gardens where the crops of many
kinds would not be found most profitable if distributed in patches ;
and I for one prefer to sacrifice order and strict rotation in order
to maintain an unbroken supply without risking an undesirable glut.
North borders prove especially useful, but unfortunately they are
oftentimes small in proportion to the size of the gardens, as, by their
proper management, much labour to attain the same ends is saved.

i88i.] WALL- BORDERS. 205

Cauliflowers. — Taking these for instance : if in the spring we have
a good batch of autumn-sown plants, some of the strongest are
planted in warm sheltered spots as previously advised, others on
warm borders more in the open, and the remainder are planted on
a north border. About one sowing of a main-crop variety on a warm
border, early in April in our case, or on a gentle hotbed in colder
districts, and the plants grown on a tolerably rich, open quarter,
would then be sufficient to maintain the supply till the earliest
Eclipse, or even Veitch's Autumn Giant (autumn-sown), are fit for
use. This season autumn-sown plants are scarce, and therefore more
plants w^ere raised under glass for both the open ground and the
north border. One of the best summer varieties is Sutton's King
of the Cauliflowers, and it is equally good for the autumn, especially
if grown on a north border.

Ihirnips. — These are still more important, in the cook's estimation
at all events, and are often grown with difficulty during the hot
summer months. For these reasons it is advisable to grow a crop
on a north border. As before stated, we make our earliest sowings
on an east border, commencing on the north border about the second
week in June, giving the preference to a good strain of Snowball.
Turnips often fail owing to insufficient pains being taken with the
ground, and later on with the young plants. A tolerably rich firmly
trod soil should be given them, and they should be encouraged to
grow quickly, and never be crowded. If the ground be dry at sowing-
time, after drawing the drills, water them well over-night or a few
hours previous to sowing. This will be found more effective than
watering after the seed is sown, and the ground levelled, as the
enclosed moisture does not so quickly evaporate. Of course these
remarks are equally applicable to the sowing of other kinds of seeds.
At this time of year it is always advisable to sow small patches
of Turnips at fortnightly intervals in preference to one large one.
Sow seed thinly, dust over the seedlings with soot and lime on the
first appearance of fleas, and thin out early.

Summer Spinach for packing purposes. — Sown in the open during
the hot summer months. Spinach is certain to run to seed before it is
of a serviceable size. In consequence of this, although there is no
great demand for it, I still consider it advisable to grow a little on
a north border, — not so much, however, for cooking, as the New
Zealand Spinach is a capital substitute, but more especially for pack-
ing purposes. Vegetables have long been packed and sent to a great
distance in Spinach, out of which they are taken comparatively fresh,
and so also will cut- flowers if packed in it, and I strongly advise
others to give the plan a trial. The cool succulent leaves, unlike other
packing material, do not absorb moisture ; on the contrary, they afford
a certain amount, or at all events materially assist in its retention.
Roses, each wrapped in a Spinach leaf, and closely packed in layers and

206 THE GARDENER. [May

shallow boxes, travel most satisfactorily, and so do many other kinds,
including Stephanotis. Spinach at all times grows most luxuriantly
in moderately rich soil, and manure should be freely dug into a north
border. The drills may be disposed a foot ai)art, and the young plants
ought to be thinned out early.

Nev) Zealand Spinach. — Where the cooks can be prevailed upon to
use it, this is found to be a most profitable vegetable. It is most easily
cultivated, and about a dozen plants will in time afford heavy pickings
daily. The seed is usually sown in heat early in April, putting out the
plants obtained towards the end of May or early in June. It is not
yet too late to sow. Fill as many 3-inch pots as plants are required
with common soil, firmly press in about three seeds into each pot, and
place them in a mild hotbed and keep moist. The seed will germinate
more quickly if soaked in water twenty-four hours previous to sowing.
Thin out the seedlings to one plant in a pot, hardening these off, and
planting out before becoming root-bound. Any sunny spot is suitable
to grow them. Here, for instance, the plants will follow winter Spinach
on a well-manured raised south border. The plants should be planted
at least a yard apart each way, and should not be placed near to fruit-
trees, as they greatly impoverish the ground. They will require to be
watered till established. The growth spreads very rapidly, the points
being usually picked.

Tomatos. — Although I wrote in the last June number of the ' Gar-
dener ' at some length on " Open-air culture of Tomatos," I cannot
consistently omit reference to the subject in this series of papers.
That Tomatos are still gaining ground in the estimation of all classes
of the community I am frequently receiving proof ; and as they are
considered by medical men to be very wholesome, it is to be hoped
they will gradually displace the unwholesome Cucumber. Last
season unusually heavy crops were produced on plants in the open
air, though in many districts a great percentage of the fruit was
badly diseased. To secure heavy crops extremely liberal treatment
must necessarily be given, aiming also to have their fruit ripening as
early as possible. In order to have an early crop, it is not advisable
to plant sooner than usual, but rather to have plants in a more
forward state — that is to say, with the first bunch of bloom already
set, and more blooms expanding. Tliis plan, of course, entails more
labour and requires more house or frame room than does the com-
moner practice, but it pays : how best to prepare the plants depends
much upon circumstances. In my last situation I prepared them in
frames, as previously described ; here they are being prepared be-
tween plants fruiting early on the shelf of a forcing-house, and in
other somewhat similar positions. The seeds were sown early in
April, the seedlings potted off into 4-inch pots, shifted into 8-inch
pots, and trained up the roof. All side shoots are closely rubbed
out, and the plants carefully watered. They will be hardened oflf

i88i.] CENTROPOGON LUCIANUS. 207

at the end of May, and planted out probably early in June. I
do not anticipate any serious check to the development of the
fruit, some of which most probably will be ripe by the middle of
July, and the plants will continue in bearing till injured either by
frost or disease. Of course it is impossible, in many cases, to grow
the full number of plants in this manner. Here, for instance, fifty
will be so prepared, these being destined for the hottest walls, those
intended for the borders clear of the walls being sown later, and not
allowed to get so much root-bound and drawn up as often is the case.
With me the earliest bed of Lettuces is usually followed by Toma-
toes, manuring freely and disposing the plants in lines at least 2 feet
apart, and about 18 inches asunder in the lines, placing a strong stake
to each at once. In this position the heaviest crops usually result.
Manure is also freely worked in for those at the foot of the walls,
planting these about 15 inches apart. In each instance the plants
are grown with a single stem, are kept carefully trained, have all side
shoots closely rubbed out, are watered during dry weather, and
occasionally with liquid manure, and early in the season are freely
mulched with half-rotten manure. Under this treatment nothing but
disease prevents very profitable crops resulting. It is the late ripen-
ing, consequent upon haphazard culture, that most frequently ends in
disappointment. W. Iggulden.

CENTROPOGON LUCIANUS.

This charming plant is not met with in the majority of gardens ;
and even where it is allowed a place in the stove, it is too often kept
for the sake of maintaining a variety. Under such circumstances, its
real beauty and usefulness can never be appreciated. That it is well
grown in some establishments there can be no doubt, especially where
an effort is made to produce flowers for decorative purposes during
winter and spring, for which it is invaluable and very effective when
well cultivated. Its habit of flowering profusely during winter should
alone commend it to growers, without considering the length of time
it will continue to produce its flowers in succession, — commencing as
it does in November, at the termination of the shoots, and then
breaking back and blooming all the way down the stem; in fact,
during winter and spring it will continue to grow a little and then
produce flowers, keeping the stove gay long after the latest Poinsettias
and Euphorbias are over ; and on this account the Centropogon should
be grown in quantity.

The habit of this plant is somewhat straggling, if an attempt is
made to grow specimen plants, or doubtless it would long ago have
figured in the front rank at our autumn and spring exhibitions.
Nevertheless, it could be grown and trained to look effective for this

208 THE GARDENER. [May

purpose ; but the object of these notes is to describe its cultivation
for decoration in small pots.

Its propagation is eflected by means of cuttings, which are plentiful
during the present month. If taken off much earlier, they are gen-
erally flowering shoots, wiiich will do if the object is to get a stock ;
otherwise they are not recommended, as they do not grow so luxuri-
antly as young ones which push from the base after flowering. The
young shoots root readily if inserted in sandy soil, and placed under
the shade of Cucumbers and Melons, or on a shelf if shaded from
the sun ; and quicker still if placed in the propagating-frame, or under
a bell-glass. When rooted, the young plants should be potted singly
in 2-inch pots, and grown on in the Melon-house for a time until well
established in their pots. They do not grow rapidly at first, as the
young shoots inserted as cuttings will not extend many inches in
length ; but stronger growth will start away from the base, and grow
sometimes between 2 and 3 feet in length. When the young plants
are established, they should be placed in a pit close to the glass, where
more air can be given to them, so that the growth made will be more
sturdy and firm. After they have filled the 2-inch pots with roots,
they should be transferred into others 2 inches larger, which should be
liberally drained, until they are placed in 5, 6, and 7 inch pots, which
are large enough for all ordinary purposes. In potting, care should be
taken that the plants never become pot-bound before the operation is
carried out, or they will be seriously checked. The drainage only
should be removed from the old ball, with as much care as possible,
and the soil should be pressed firmly into the pots. After potting, in
each case the house or pit should be kept close and moist for a time,
until the roots have taken fairly to the new soil. The Centropogon is
not particular to soil, and wdll do fairly well in almost any compost.
Rich fibry loam, and a seventh of well-rotted manure, with plenty of
coarse sand, and a little charcoal to render the whole porous, suits it
well.

While growing, liberal applications of water should be given, and
the plants well syringed overhead twice daily. Weak stimulants may
be given every alternate watering after the plants have filled their
flowering-pots with roots. As the season advances, the plants must
be gradually hardened by reducing the artificial heat until it can be
dispensed with for a time during the hottest months of the year. The
house or pit in which they are growing should be closed early in
the day, so as to run up the temperature considerably by sun-heat, as
this will prove advantageous to the plants while in cool quarters. As
soon as the nights become cold, they should at once be removed where
a temperature of 55° to 60° can be maintained. If growth is sturdy, no
stakes will be required while growing to support the shoots ; but before
flowering, short stakes should be placed to each shoot, according to
its length,— not too long, as the plants show themselves ofl" to greater

iSSi.] NOTES ON BROCCOTJ. 209

advantage when allowed to arch the top part of their growth similar
to Euphorbia Jacquiniflora. When grown this way, instead of their
whole growth being staked entirely upright, they can be arranged to
look more effective amongst stove-plants of a more formal habit. The
flowering shoots stand well out, and thus give to the whole a light and
gay appearance. I have found very little advantage to be gained by
pinching the shoots while growing, as this plant has not much inclina-
tion to branch into a number of shoots. The strongest shoots only
should be stopped. The more moderate growths that throw up from
the base should be allowed to extend, as they flower the best, and for
the greatest length along the stem. Plants with from one to three
good shoots are much better than a greater number of small ones, and
look much better when staged amongst other plants.

By propagating two or three sets of plants, a better succession will
be maintained, and the latest will be much dwarf er, and therefore
better for arranging near the front of stages. This plant has seldom
given me much trouble to keep it free of insects. I have never
seen anything upon it but a little thrip, which can be easily kept
under by liberal syringing. Wm. Baedney.

NOTES ON BROCCOLI.

Last autumn, when our Broccoli were looking their best, I decided
to send a few notes to the 'Gardener' on the subject when the time
came round again for their culture ; and now that it is here, I am
almost ashamed of my decision, as all the Broccoli crops in the country
have undergone a wonderful transformation since last autumn. As a
rule, they have failed to such an extent that many may be considering
whether to grow them again or not. I more than suspect that the last
failure is not the first during the last three years, and we all know
that repeated loss is not encouraging to further trial ; but I think we
must try and try again with the Broccoli yet. In ordinary winters
they are such an excellent vegetable that nothing so good could be
substituted for them, and the hope is great that we will be more
fortunate in the weather next time our winter and spring Broccoli
are due. Considering the past, too, it has not been without its ad-
vantages, as it has proved very markedly which kinds we may place
most reliance on at such times ; and the warning should not be trifled
with, but let every one confine his sorts to those which have resisted
the severe weather the best, as this is more likely to be the means of
securing a crop than selecting varieties at random, or growing those
which have previously proved most tender.

Some seasons we have grown more than a dozen sorts here, but
several of them possessed so little merit that we have reduced them to
about four kinds or so. First and foremost comes Veitch's Self,

210 THE GARDENER. [May

Protecting Autumn Variety, wliicli conies into use in November and
December, and is an excellent sort for succeeding Veitch's Autumn
Cauliflower, which is closely foUowed by Osborn's Winter White,
which in its turn is followed by Carter's j\Iammoth Spring White ;
and this is finally succeeded by Sutton's Late Queen, which comes in
from the middle of April until the end of May. This variety is one
of the hardiest of all Broccoli, and it, together with the first-named,
are our favourites in this section of vegetables, and should be included
in all Broccoli lists. In most cases Broccoli seed will have been sown
by this time. Where all has not been put in, no time should now be
lost in completing the operation. The seed is best sown in beds
broadcast, but not too thick. Our beds for all plants of the kind are
generally made on one of the kitchen-garden borders, from 12 to 20
feet in width. If a very small quantity is sown, it may be put into
a drill along the bottom of a wall, or any such place. Under such a
system, the drill may be from 1 to 2 inches deep ; but the seed
should not be covered quite so much as this, whether in drills or
broadcast. Birds and slugs are always eager to destroy the young
plants when in a small state, and it is sometimes necessary to put a
piece of net over the seed immediately after sowing to keep birds off;
and other pests may generally be kept away by sprinkling a little
soot and lime over the surface. When once the plants are fairly
through the ground, they will push on rapidly ; and if the seed was
sown thick, and germinated well, they will be too crowded to
remain in the seed-ground until finally planted. In such cases they
should be carefully thinned out as soon as they have formed two or
three rough leaves, and dibbled into some good piece of ground, from
3 to 4 inches apart. This transplanting may cause them to fall a
little behind those in the seed-bed in growth, but they will form a
succession, and all will be converted into sturdy healthy plants by
the operation. Some may be ready for planting in their permanent
quarters by the end of May, others during June ; and those which
were given plenty of room at transplanting time may be retained until
July, if necessary, to fill up space then rendered vacant by removing
other early crops.

The time of sowing or planting does not influence the time of head-
ing very much. This is entirely guided by variety. For instance,
were Veitch's and Sutton's varieties, recommended above, both sown
on the same day in April, the former would head in November,
the latter five months afterwards. I merely state this simple fact, as
the question is frequently asked by amateurs how Broccoli are got in
for such a time in succession. The extent of most kitchen-gardens
is barely sufficient to produce all that is required from them, by only
taking one crop off the ground in the year. Two crops, and
sometimes three, are not too many in some cases; and in such
gardens Broccoli has seldom a piece of ground set apart for it exclu-

i88i.] NOTES ON BROCCOLI. 211

sively. A spring crop mast generally come off the ground before the
Broccoli are planted ; and as it is the most economical way, there is
no reason why it should not be so. At the present time we have a
number of Sutton's Queen Broccoli on land that was a crop of Peas
last July, and by that month again the same piece of ground will con-
tain an advanced crop of Turnips. If fine large heads are desired, the
plants must not be grown too closely together; besides, close planting
has also a great tendency to make the plants tender — a condition to
be strictly avoided in the case of all winter and spring plants. These
cannot be grown too hardy. Wide planting and an exposed situation
are the rules to follow to secure this. Early autumn kinds may be
grown 18 inches apart each way; later sorts, 2 feet and 30 inches.
Where large quantities are wanted, good breadths should be planted ;
but where only a few heads weekly are all that is required, a few
rows may keep up the supply — and for convenience these may be
planted in any little spare strip of ground. As late sorts remain a
long time on the ground, they should not be planted in the centre
quarters, which are likely to be wanted early; but when they are
kept at the ends of the quarters they are seldom in the way of any-
thing. Where the main crop of Potatoes are planted 30 inches or
so between the rows, a row of Broccoli may sometimes be planted
between each ; and when the Potatoes are lifted in autumn, the Broc-
coli are left in full possession for the winter. We practise this kind
of double-cropping a good deal, and find it answer well. ]\Iost of our
Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, (fcc, are planted between Potatoes. Unless
fairly good-sized Broccoli plants are secured before growth ceases, the
heads will not be large. For this reason the ground for this crop
should be on the rich side. They require plenty of manure put into
the ground at the time of planting, or some little time previously. At
the present time we are just getting our largest Broccoli quarter
ready. The subsoil is very retentive, and to improve this it is being
dug two spades deep. Decayed leaves and suchlike are being put
well down to the bottom ; and before the crop is planted a coating of
half-decayed cow-dung will be forked close under the surface. Should
the winter not prove all the worse, a fine crop may be depended on
from this piece, or any other that is prepared in the same way. We
have transferred the plants from the seed - bed when they were
from 2 to 8 inches high, and both succeeded; but unless great
care is taken with the smaller size, slugs are very apt to destroy
them. Large plants are not so easily injured. Those who can spare
the time to lift the young plants with balls of earth to their roots, and
plant with a trowel, will find this a better plan than using a dibble,
especially in dry weather, as they do not sustain such a check.
Showery weather or a wet day is the best time to plant Broccoli.
When the atmosphere and soil is very dry, one good watering imme-
diately after planting helps greatly to sustain the plant until fresh

212 THE GARDENER. [May

growth begins. As most kinds of Broccoli are inclined to become
rather long in the stem and heavy in the head, as soon as they are
about a foot high a quantity of earth should be drawn to their stems
with the drag-hoe. This plan must be followed on all very exposed
spots, and sometimes a second earthing may have to be done when
they are half-grown. Although some Broccoli plants will bear a great
amount of frost, the heads, when once formed, are most easily in-
jured by it ; and if not protected, a few degrees will make them worth-
less. From November onwards, as soon as the heads are seen to be
forming, all the side-leaves should be gathered up over the head, and
have their ends tied just above it with a piece of matting or small
willow. When more heads are ready for cutting than are wanted, the
plants should be taken up altogether, a piece of cord tied round the
stem, and then hung up head-downwards in a cool shed. This is the
best way of keeping Broccoli : we have kept heads in perfectly good
condition for a month in this way. Just before severe weather every
head formed should be treated in this way. Where it is feared that
any spell of severe weather will injure plants which are intended for
later supplies, every one of them should be taken up by the roots and
laid in sideways, with their heads facing the north. All plants treated
in this way during the past winter have, as a rule, suffered very much
less from the weather than those having no such attention.

J. MuiR.
Margam.

HINTS FOE, AMATEURS.

HARDY FRUITS.

A GENERAL examination of Peaches and Nectarines should now be
made where they have set in clusters (as we hope they have this
year), so that enough may be thinned to prevent others from falling
off by overcrowding, which is apt to take place on trees which are not
vigorous. Shoots laid in thickly is another evil, besides the use-
less loss of time in tying and untying. Disbud very gradually out-
growing shoots first, and retain those next the wall for next year's
bearing-wood ; but taking off large breadths of young growths at one
time may unduly expose the fruit to late frosts. When disbudding is
done as soon as the buds are seen, the tree receives no check ; but on
open walls the fruit is often the better of protection from young growths
as late as June. This applies to all fruit-trees. Apricots will now be
swelling rapidly, and disbudding may go on piecemeal. Stop shoots
which are taking the lead at the expense of their fellow^s. It may be
well to give a dewing over fruit-trees, with the syringe, of the follow-
ing mixture : | lb. of quassia-chips, boiled, to each gallon of water,
with a little soft soap and tobacco-powder (snuff is useful for the
mixture) ; this may act as a preventive in warding off green and

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 213

black fly. Grubs may put in an appearance on Apricots, which are
detected by curling of the leaf. Hand-picking is the only effectual
remedy we know of for stamping them out. Gooseberries may be
early attacked with grubs, as they were last year, and also with aphis.
A syringing with the mixture referred to might ward them off ; but
too often remedies found in print against such vermin prove use-
less when applied in their best form. Strawberries should be mulched
with litter, if not already done. A good soaking of manure-water,
succeeded by the same of rain-water after they are set, may give fine
crops of fruit. Frequent watering affects the flavour : give plenty of
an evening, and let it alone for a week.

Young trees may be making rapid growth, and should be examined
often. Any going off into strong watery growth should be stopped,
but if such can be spared so much the better : firm even growth is
desirable. Maiden trees lately planted, to be trained on walls or
fences, will now be starting. And to make fine trees, well balanced
on the wall, careful hands should be used to get them well started
into form. As all forms of training come to the same thing as re-
gards quality and quantity, it should be done to taste, but sys-
tematically, and give plenty of space between the ties and the
wood. Grafts must be examined to see that no suckers are robbing
them of their supply from the stock : mulch and water stocks if neces-
sary. Orchard-house trees will be in advance of those outside. Attend
to stopping, thinning of shoots and fruit, syringing, careful watering
at the roots — using weak doses of guano where crops are good and
roots in abundance to turn the liquid manure to good account. If
insects attack the trees, fumigating (except where any fruits are ripen-
ing) three successive times is an effectual remedy.

SHRUBS,

It may be observed that many shrubs which appeared little the
worse of the severe winter, are now showing signs of distress.
Laurustinus, common and Portugal Laurels, are the worst we have seen.
Where they are much injured, they had better be cut well back ; and if
a mulching, and above that a coating, of rich loam and rotten manure
well mixed, be given, they may be much assisted to make a free and
healthy growth from the bottom. Where plants are quite dead, the
sooner the ground is cleared of them the better. Early flowering
shrubs and berry-bearing kinds, such as Cotoneaster Simondsii, may
be cut well back ; they will break out and make fine fruiting shoots :
but if size is no object they are as well let alone. We adopt a system
of cutting back Lilacs, Thorns, Ribes's Laburnums, mock O -anges,
and numerous others when done flowering, which keeps a good variety
on the space allotted to them, and no crowding takes place. Some
prefer this season for transplanting evergreen shrubs. When done
quickly and carefully they get well established during the summer.

214 THE GARDENER. [May

Some good soil next tlie roots, made firm and well soaked with water,
then covered over with dry soil, will keep them right, and growth
takes place at once. Stakes should be firmly placed when trees and
shrubs are large enough to be affected by the wind. Young shrub-
beries should have the surface of the soil well hoed, and all made
neat and orderly. Coniferse, which have lost their tops and more
than one leader forming, may have the most central and best one
left, and the others reduced or cut out.

FLOWER- GAEDEN.

The soil which is to receive the summer and autumn flowering plants
should (where vacant) be in good healthy condition, having been well
turned up to the weather. Any manuring or addition of soil neces-
sary should be given without delay, and the soil well broken, to be
ready when the plants are taken to their quarters. It is not profitable
to be in a great hurry, as severe weather is often experienced at end
of month. All hardier kinds should be planted first, leaving the most
tender kinds to end of month or first week in June. Decide on tbe
style in which the plants are to be arranged. Calculate the numbers
required, and number the stock which are ready for planting, then
set about the work vigorously till all are planted. The patchwork
system (carpeting) seems to have had its day, and has not now so
many admirers. And no wonder, when one sees so much ground un-
naturally covered with small shapes, made with flowers and foliage,
and these forms not of the most pleasing character either ; but there
are styles of this bedding in the hands of some men who are able to
make it pleasing, and the opposite of what is often practised. The
effort to cram as many kinds and colours on one bed or border is all
that is studied by some. There is no beauty in this ; but it is not our
duty to try to regulate taste. Another evil which is not checked is
the cutting up of lawns into beds, probably among fine trees, with no
other object in view but to stick flowers about. A flower-garden in
its place is all very well, but nothing is so pleasing and beautiful as a
well-kept lawn round a dwelling ; and insignificant beds among fine
trees are much out of harmony and good taste.

Hardy Annuals may now be sown : they mostly require good ground
and proper attention to thinning. More Mignonette and Sweet Peas
maybe sown. Propagate all spring- floweringplants by cuttings or
divisions. When done with for the season, the plants should be
arranged in the store-garden, and kept clean and orderly till wanted.
Plant out Violets : they may be increased by cutting and divisions.
Polyanthus may be increased in the same manner. Stocks and Asters
may be planted in quantity — they are always acceptable. Pansies in
full flower may require a soaking of water. Young plants not turned
out should have prompt attention. They do well on rich cool soil, well

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 215

trenched ; a surfacing of thoroughly rotten manure would do much to
establish a long blooming season. Dahlias should be gradually
hardened before they are turned out ; and it may be necessary in some
localities to protect the plants with fiower-pots at night : they are
easily destroyed by frost. Herbaceous borders and beds should be
well hoed, and stake all plants requiring it. Phloxes, Delphiniums,
and suchlike soon get destroyed if left to themselves. Roses may
be examined for grubs. A good soaking of manure-water before they
flower would be of much service to them. Lawns may still be reno-
vated by fresh surfacing of soil and good seed sown. All weeds
in grass should be removed, walks thoroughly cleaned, edgings cut
often, and everything in thorough good keeping. Lime-water destroys
worms.

PL A NT- STRUCTUEES.

At this season watering must have increased attention ; it may be
done in the after-part of the day. The roots of all pot-plants should
now be in healthy soil, with proper drainage ; no stimulants, or the
most judicious watering, will ever give health and vigour if the roots
are not active and in wholesome soil. Better to have a small stock
of plants and do them well, than be crowded up, with worthless kinds
destroying what should be useful. Manure cannot often be mixed
with soil in pots with advantage. Gross feeders may get advantage
from it, but often the soil is made sour and unwholesome by it.
Absence of air is what does the mischief. Airing must be increased
to most kinds of plants, especially those of the greenhouse class.
Cold currents should be avoided. To keep health, thorough cleanli-
ness should be maintained everywhere. Look often to see that no
insects are being harboured. Foliage of every plant should be free
from dust, and a free use of the syringe and rain-water may be made ;
but see that no soil becomes sodden by frequent overhead drenchings.
Fire will probably be in less request now, but frost must be kept out,
and plants requiring a higher growing atmosphere must have it. In
greenhouses and cold pits there should be a stock of plants coming
forward to supply the show-house. This structure may only be a glass
case attached to an upper storey ; but whether that or a gigantic con-
servatory, the same attention, to a greater or less extent, is neces-
sary to secure a continuous display of bloom. Begonias (tuberous
kinds), which make a fine display, may now be arranged in successions.
They do well in turfy loam and sand — a little rotten healthy leaf -soil,
or a trifle of peat, is of some advantage. Calceolarias and Pelargoniums
now flowering may require manure-water. If there are not other things
to crowd out the following, they may be in full growth for later sup-
plies of flowers — Heliotropes, Harrison's Musk, Pelargoniums of
the various classes. Show kinds coming into flower are very apt to
suffer by green-fly, and can be syringed with quassia-water or fumi-

21G THE GARDENER. [May

gated as preventives. Lobelias, Fuchsias, Verbenas, Petunias (single
and double), Lantanas, Carnations in pots, Kalosantbes, Hydrangeas,
etc. There should also be (if only a small lot) Cockscombs, Balsams,
Globe Amaranthus, Coleus, Salvias of sorts. Plumbagos, Cannas, and
suchlike, to give the necessary display ; but better only to grow a few
of these well, than sutler the one lot to destroy the other.

Sow Cinerarias for main supply, also more Primulas if wanted.
Calceolarias may be sown, but the best of these we ever saw were
raised from seed in July. When such plants are stunted for want of
pot-room (as they often are), they are worthless when they should be
at their best. Prick out seedlings before they sufier in the seed-pots ;
shade carefully, but only to keep off sun when strong. All plants
which have done good service during the past winter and spring
should not be neglected now (as they often are by pressure of other
w\irk). They should make their wood, then be allowed to ripen it and
set their buds : this applies to all forced plants. Bulbs may be planted
out in the reserve garden. After they are forced they require at least
a season to recover themselves, and some are never fit for pots again.
Cyclamens may be planted out in frames, or placed in borders par-
tially shaded. Camellias and Azaleas should nob be taken too quickly
outside from heat where they are under preparation for early work.
The buds should be well formed before the plants are taken outside,
and that should be done gradually. A house for such plants, or pits
suitable, are desirable when they are to flower during autumn and
early winter. Hard-wood greenhouse plants should all be overhauled
as they go out of flower, and shifted, if necessary, into pots a size larger,
or have the soil and drainage partly renewed ; the latter is of more
importance than is generally believed. In the show-structure, climbers
should be regulated, thinned to keep them from crowding, and made
secure to their fastenings. When they hang gracefully and naturally
they are very beautiful. As examples. Plumbagos, Passifloras, Habro-
thamnus, Bougainvilleas, &c., with a rod like a Vine trained along the
roof of a house, and the young growths hanging separately and loaded
with flowers, must create admiration, but not so when they are
crowded or tied into forms. In stoves there are many plants coming
into flower, such as Gloxinias, Acbimenes, Begonias, Clerodendrons,
Anthuriums, &c. They should have the best positions in the house
as to light and air. An intermediate temperature, when more air and
light can be given, will keep them longer in flower, and is better in
every way. Moisture will be increased according to heat, and a free
use of the syringe must be made. Shade carefully, but not w^hen there
is no sunshine, though many are obliged to use whitening or thin
white paint from May to September, and with tolerable success ; but
blinds of thin canvas or hexagon netting are best. Night-temperatures
need not be more than 65° to 70°. Newly potted plants are the better
of a little more. M. T.

i88i.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE .PLANTS. 217

IsTOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

THE ACACIA.

The Acacia, in its varieties, ranks amongst the most handsome and
graceful, as well as most useful, of our flowering greenhouse plants.
The sprays of flowers are excellent for arranging in vases, and the
plants, when in flower, are admirable for general house decoration.
Their season of flowering being from January till June — a time when
all kinds of flowers, except forced ones, are generally scarce — renders
them all the more acceptable. The Acacia, like many more good green-
house plants, is not nearly so extensively cultivated as used formerly
to be the case, the fashion for foliage plants which has prevailed hav-
ing elbowed them aside. They are gradually, however, winning their
way back to public favour. Foliage plants are all very well in their
place, and are very useful, yet they lack the interest and attraction
which flowering plants possess.

No doubt the fashion of table - decoration has been in a great
measure the cause of the neglect of flowering greenhouse plants.
Foliage plants are, as a rule, more suitable for this kind of work,
not to speak, of the much greater facility with which they can be
got up to the requisite size, suitable for such purposes. We think,
however, that horticultural societies have also been much to blame by
giving undue prominence to foliage plants, to the almost total exclu-
sion of the others. We have heard exhibitors remark that it was
almost useless to exhibit greenhouse flowering plants in a collection
of mixed stove or greenhouse plants, as they could not compete
against the fine-foliage stove-plants. When the accommodation is
sufficient, both may be grown in proportions to suit circumstances ;
but the evil is that, where the accommodation is limited, we are almost
of necessity confined to either one or the other kind of plants, only a few
of the hardier kinds of Palms, Dracaenas, ttc, being capable of cultiva-
tion in the ordinary greenhouse, and, on the other hand, the stove be-
ing much too hot for the general run of greenhouse plants. The fashion
for table-decoration is, no doubt, on the wane, so that in all pro-
bability "time, the great leveller,'' will in due course make things
right again.

The list of Acacias is a very comprehensive one, consisting as it
does of about 300 varieties. Some of them are natives of tropical
climates, and some of more temperate climes. Most of the best of
our greenhouse varieties are natives of the Australian continent, and
none of them are very diflicult to cultivate. The soil best suited
to their wants consists of a mixture of equal parts of peat and good
fibry loam, with a liberal allowance of sharp sand. Some of the
varieties, such as Riceana, are admirably adapted for training up
rafters, pillars, or for covering a wall, and thus grown, are very strik-

218 ' THE GARDENER. [May

ing and beautiful objects. Some of the finer kinds also make grand
plants for exhibition purpot^es. The Acacia is propagated by cuttings
and from seed. If by cuttings, they j^hould be taken off at a joint,
and put in a properly drained pot or pan, filled up with soil, leaving
about two inches of pure silver sand on the top in which to insert the
cuttings ; water them through a fine rose, cover with a bell-glass, and
plunge the pot up to the rim in a moderate hotbed. After they
are fairly rooted, they should be potted off singly, in small pots, and
replunged for a time in the hotbed or propagating -pit until they
have again started into active growth. As soon as the pots are filled
with roots, they may be shifted into larger pots. It is not desirable
in the case of any hard-wooded plants to give large shifts, as the roots
always find their way to the sides of the pot, and therefore the roots
may get matted there, and the centre of the ball just loose soil, by
which the water escapes too readily, and the soil also holds too much
water in suspension, and therefore soon gets soured. By giving small
shifts, and more frequently, the whole ball wall be full of roots, and
they will be ready to absorb the water when it is given to them. The
points of the shoots should be pinched out when they are young, so as
to secure a bushy habit. They should be kept moderately close and
warm during the first season, gradually hardening them off as autumn
approaches, so that they may be the better able to stand the winter.
In spring, when fresh growth commences, they may get another shift,
say into 6-inch pots, using the soil as roughly as may be convenient.
They may be kept close for a short time until they begin to root afresh,
when a more liberal allowance of air may be given them. About the
middle of July they may be set out of doors in a well-sheltered, sunny
l»lace, and the pots plunged in a good deep bed of ashes, both to pre-
vent the entrance of worms through the drainage -holes and also
excessive evaporation. They may be allowed to stand here until the
autumn, but must be attended to in the way of watering, &c. When
the pots are full of rootKS they require a liberal supply. They must
be housed again about the middle or end of October. If it be
desired to raise plants from seed, it should be sow^i in February or
]\Iarch, the pot or pan plunged in a mild bottom-heat, and the seed-
lings pricked off singly into small pots as soon as they have made two
pairs of leaves. The after-treatment should be the same as described
above for plants raised from cuttings.

It is unnecessary to give a list of varieties, as this can easily be
obtained from any catalogue. We may, however, just give the names
of a dozen varieties which will give pretty general satisfaction — viz.,
A. armata, A. dealbata, A. Drummondii, A. grandis, A. hispidissima,
A. linearis, A. longifolia, A. pubescens, A. Riceana, A. verticillata, A.
spectabilis, and A. vestita. J. G., W.

i88i.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 219

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

'' HoTWATER-MEN," as gardeners term " Horticultural Engineers," do
not always know most about heating ; and as to boilers, one has only
to contemplate some of their misshapen and thoroughly stupid inven-
tions to understand how much they know about their business ; but
they are not quite so bad as some "judges" of boilers. There are men
who have had a large share in awarding valuable prizes to stupid boilers,
who possessed no real knowledge of the subject whatever. There are
numbers of common-sense people who have never yet fathomed the mys-
tery of awarding a grand medal to a boiler because it was a common
"saddle" squeezed in at the sides to make these perpendicular (a bad
fault), and had its inside capacity reduced in order to make two chimneys
under the roof of it. Fancy erecting a fireplace in a room with the
half of the grate or heating portion of the fire turned to the wall !
AVhat we wish particularly to refer to here, however, is the paper read
lately by Mr A. D. Makenzie of Edinburgh on " Economy in Fuel " in
garden furnaces. Mr Makenzie's ideas are sound, and simple as welJ.
He prefers a boiler with plenty of internal capacity for fuel, and with
a grate-bar wide enough to admit sufficient air to burn it thoroughly.
Any inventor may proceed on these lines. It is not that portion of
real mamifactured heat going up the chimney, and supposed by some
to be lost, which troubles the Edinburgh engineer so much, but the
heat that escapes in a latent state — i.e., in the form of smoke and un-
burned particles : he wants to burn the " reek," which is just what
some of our fine boilers will not do. They are tar-distilling and gas-
making apparatus. ^Yhen the stoker feels his hoe getting sticky with
tar as he pushes it under his " water jacket" boilers that boast of " no
fire-brick settings" or other aids to perfect combustion, he may then
always be sure that his coal is going away bodily up the chimney, or
being expended to worse purposes. Listen to what an eminent
authority says on this point : " If a fireplace were required to be
constructed so as to drive off as much as possible of the hydrogen in
an unignited state (that is, to merely waste the fuel), the best plan
would be to have the furnace bars and sides formed of pipes with cold
water constantly circulating through them. Those portions of fresh
coal which lie against the boiler undergo for some time distillation
rather than combustion ; and while they are thus ivasting they inter-
cept a large portion of the boiler surface from the central portion of
the fuel, which is probably in a state of incandescence." . If your
readers will apply this test to some of our " double million power,"
hollow-barred heating apparatus of the present time, it will give them
a more accurate conception of their merits. Very wisely, too, does Mr
Makenzie tell us that he prefers a long low boiler to a short lofty one,
for he has found that with a short boiler he could not raise the same
heat as with a long one. Plenty of stokers know this from experience.

220 THE GARDENER. [May

One of the failings of our boiler-makers is a penchant for adding side
and top auxiliary flues, in the belief that they are thereby adding
power to the boiler. Neither wings nor top flues should ever be
added to a saddle boiler till it becomes so long that you cannot reach
the end of it conveniently with the poker. When this happens, and
you have any iron to spare, you may use it to make a tail or a wing
outside, but not before. You can never get so much heat from an
outside flue as you can get from that portion of the boiler which is
exposed to the direct action of the fire ; and with a long saddle of pro-
portionate width, and set on fire-brick, you may challenge the most
complicated or best silver or gold medal boiler ever invented, and feel
sure of beating them, provided you know how to stoke.

MORE SCIENTIFIC BALDERDASH.

"M. Regnard has been inquiring into the much -disputed problem, why
vegetation does not grow well beneath trees, notwithstanding that there is
plenty of light, pure air, humidity, and warmth. He has confirmed the
observations of M. Paul Bert, who had already shown that green light hinders
the development of plants. Plants enclosed in a green glass frame wither
and die as though they were in darkness. M. Regnard finds that plants
specially require the red rays. If the sunlight is deprived of the red rays
the plants soon cease to thrive. This fact explains why plants grow well in
rooms upholstered or papered in red, while they wither in rooms upholstered
or papered in green."

It can hardly be said that it has been a much-disputed point by
English gardeners, at least, why vegetation does not grow well beneath
trees. It has generally been supposed that the reason was the same
as that which prevented plants thriving in a dark cupboard with the
door shut. It was not known before that plants died in a green glass
frame, but the contrary was supposed to be the case ; and gardeners,
even of Kew, if we remember correctly, painted some of their glass
roofs green, and recommended the plan. The French horticulturists
themselves shade their plant-houses with a kind of green Venetian
blinds that gives everything inside a green look ; and yet their plants
thrive admirably. The "fact" of plants growing in red -papered
rooms, and dying in green-papered ones, is unadulterated lunacy. As
barren a piece of ground as we ever saw was under the branches of a
spreading purple or red beech. It is the fault of French horticultur-
ists and botanists that they are a trifle too "scientific" and philoso-
phical. Their " high-class" gardening partakes too much of the labora-
tory, hence these errors and contrarieties. It is not long since one of
the most learned horticulturists in France, Lavallee, was at great
pains to explain how it was that vegetation throve under beech and
other trees ; now we are having it explained by another of his country-
men why it does not thrive. It is this same " scientific " penchant
which has created the innumerable fantastic systems of training fruit-

i88t.] notes from THE PAPERS. 221

trees which finds favour with a certain section of French gardeners.
There is not one fantastic shape but which is founded on some wise
principle or other, but which nobody believes in but themselves — not
even real French fruit-growers. If all the fine-trained trees in France
were burned to-morrow, it would not make the smallest difference to
the future supplies of the Halles Centrales. If you want to see
fine examples of training, you have to seek them out like needles in a
bundle of hay ; but in a single journey from Dieppe through Normandy,
'• which produces the best farmers and best gardeners in France," you
will see how the fruit is grown, or where it comes from. It is like a
long railway journey through orchards and gardens. The vineyards
at Thomery, Asparagus farms at Argenteuil, and the market-gardens
round Paris, are old-fashioned institutions that have been carried on
with marvellous success for generations, by old-fashioned common-
sense people, who have nearly as much "science" about them as the
ordinary farmer in this country has, but more method and industry.

Some of our great seed-firms seem to be going in for the " Hollo-
way Pill" and "New Blood Restorer" method of advertising their
Potatoes and other things. An advertisement like the following
would hardly be admitted into the gardening papers, but it has for
some time being going the round of the second-rate provincial prints,
week by week, in the " promiscuous paragraph " style. We suppress
names : —

" Potato Planting. — The value of a good crop of sound floury Potatoes can-
not he over-estimated, and yet how few, comparatively, use the means to secure
it ! Planting the same kinds which our forefathers have grown from time imme-
morial, and without any change of seed, is called the ' custom of the country,'
and an unprofitable custom too, as many have found to their cost. The value
of disease-resisting Potatoes has been demonstrated in such a remarkable man-
ner, that we wonder at any lover of the national esculent planting any other.
It, however, needs caution in selecting these so-called 'Disease Resisters.'
The only Potatoes which can lay claim to practically resisting disease are

and , the latter a new introduction this year. Of

, every one speaks most highly ; the yield is prodigious, the quality Al,

the waste nil. Indeed, so great is its reputation that other Potatoes sold as

have been substituted for the real variety. Those who would have

the true stock should go to direct, as Messrs do not supply other

seedsmen ; and send for Illustrated Descriptive Catalogue of Seed

Potatoes, which not only contains particulars of all the best kinds in
cultivation, but a complete list of those most suitable for early, medium,
and late crops. The Catalogue may be had gratis and post free, on applica-
tion to ."

The Potato here so plausibly recommended by the party who has
got it to sell is not disease-proof, is not the best for general cropping,
is so very late that in some districts it hardly produces anything but
haulms, and is bad to eat, as a rule.

222 THE GARDENER. [May

Those manure-tables in the ' Gardeners' Chronicle ' are valuable, and
it is to be hoped they will be continued till all our artificial manures
have been analysed. That these vary considerably in their composi-
tion, has been long suspected by cultivators who have used different
samples, and the analysis, so far, proves that for general purposes some
of those manufactured are inferior to others. To be useful to the cul-
tivator, artificial manures, it would appear, must be prepared for special
subjects, or they must be so constituted and balanced as to render
them applicable to crops generally. It is evident, however, that com-
pounds of the last description will entail the most waste, as they may
contain certain elements that are of no use to some plants, or they may
already exist in the soil in sufficient abundance. The subjects culti-
vated are, however, so numerous, that anything but a generally applicable
artificial manure is out of the question, unless it be for such special sub-
jects as Potatoes, Peas, Onions, and the Brassica tribe, &c. Meanwhile
it is a good thing to know what the various and highly-puffed artificial
manures are made of, and their relative value. Probably they are
something like boilers — better and worse kinds. Certainly some of
them are dear — as much as <£250 per ton !

If the coloured portrait of the " Ptath-Pipe " Peach in the ' Florist '
of February be a truthful one — and " both artist and colour-printer'' are
said " to have acquitted themselves with success " in its production —
it must be a marvellously high-coloured variety indeed. In your con-
temporary, the skin is nearly as bright as a scarlet Geranium, while
the term "illuminated" hardly conveys an idea of the splendid tints
that encircle the stone of the fruit like a brilliant corona. We would
rather credit the description given in the letterpress regarding the
qualities of the fruit. It was exhibited last summer, '' and created
quite a sensation — its very handsome appearance being found to be
equalled by its excellent quality." For appearance and flavour it is
not to be surpassed, says ]\[r Bond, who grew and exhibited it. Rath-
Ripe is au American Peach, late, and a good bearer. From other
sources we have heard that it is a nicely-coloured and good Peach.

That fine group of Hyacinthus candicans, in a contemporary, might
easily be mistaken at a first glance for a group of white Foxgloves,
which, without underestimating the value of the Hyacinth, are equally
fine, equally grand. It is a humiliating admission to make, but we
have not the shadow of a doubt that if the Hyacinthus candicans
had been a native of our own woods, the Foxglove a native of Africa,
and doubtfully hardy in this country, as well as scarce and expensive,
their positions would be reversed. It is marvellous the glamour a
high price and difficulty of culture throws round a plant in the
gardener's eyes ! There is no use disguising the fact. It is extremely
doubtful if this fine Hyacinth will prove a hardy and suitable border

tS8i.] notes. 223

plant anywhere ; but those who want a substitute equally good, equally
noble, and quite as lasting, will find it in the Foxglove, and they
may have a choice of colours. In the woods, in the poor natural soil,
the Foxglove is a conspicuous and noble-looking plant ; but in the
open, and in an ordinarily rich soil, it is splendid, and has few equals,
especially the Gloxiniflora variety ; and a few seeds scattered over the
ground is all that is needed to establish it. Reader.

NOTES.

All gardeners know something of grafting, but what I desire to know
is. Whether is it best to graft a strong-growing scion upon a weak-grow-
ing stock, or vice versa ? There is a tendency among some Rose-growers
to dispense with stocks altogether, and to depend entirely on own-root
Roses, An amateur wrote to tell me the other day that none of his Roses
on the Brier stock were killed : but he added that the stocks — i.e., the
Briers themselves — were killed, leaving the poor Roses rootless 'twixt
earth and sky. I have seen the same effect in Yorkshire many times ;
and it is now a well-known fact that, hardy as the Brier undoubtedly
is in its native lair — I mean, hedge or wood — it is very often killed in
the garden. Of course Briers are more exposed in the garden, but I
believe that they are weakened most by that miserable mop-like wisp
of Rose-twigs budded on their crowms. No one will for a moment deny
that to nurserymen, grafting is a necessary means to quick manufac-
ture of stock : it is convenient, but is it the best way ]

Mr Simpson, of Wortley Hall Gardens, sends me flowers of Coelogyne
cristata, representing the old type, and a much "improved" form with
larger flowers and a deeper orange-yellow blotch on the lip. The best
form also blooms more profusely. It was like Cypripedium Maulei,
Laslia alba, Lycaste virginalis, and many other good things, imported by
accident as it were, and is no doubt one of nature's own " improved "
forms.

It is very wicked, I know, but a malicious gardener writes to say
that all the " improved " strains of seeds he bought last season were
not equal in results to pinches of home-saved seeds that brother gar-
deners gave him or sent to him by post. What he suggests is that a few
" improved " seedsmen would be an advantage to practical gardeners.
All I can say is, that his heresy and schism does not apply to Mr Simp-
son's Coelogyne ; and I trust that with further experience he will think
better of the seedsmen, who unfortunately, in the matter of choice seeds,
are often entirely at the mercy of others.

Why are not the varieties of Pseony Moutan, the hardy or half-hardy

224 THE GARDENER. [May

Tree PiEony of nortliern China, not more often seen forced into bloom at
this season 1 Brought on gently in an intermediate temperature, they
are very fine in flower and distinct in leafage. Like Spira3a, Prunus,
Solomon's Seal, Lily of the Valley, Deutzia, and many other of our
finest spring-blooming greenhouse-plants, they may best be grown in the
open air for the greater part of the year. Just now their great rosy or
peach-stained flowers are very welcome, and many of them are deli-
cately fragrant. For cut-flowers and for drawing-room vases, half-
a-dozen great blooms go a long way, as the saying is, and they are
effective.

The crimson-blossomed Pyrus (Cydonia) japonica is now covered
with its bright red buds, and I never saw it so profuse before — a result
due rather to a warm dry autumn than to the exceptionally severe
winter through which we have just passed. White, salmon, pink,
rose, and blush shaded varieties have been raised on the Continent,
but the old scarlet type remains the hardiest and most effective, —
the best, in fact, in every way. In most places its gorgeous flowers are
highly valued ; and wherever there is a bare place on a south or west
wall, one might *' go farther and fare worse " by not planting — well,
planting — this fine native of Japan.

I am not one of those who believe that the young gardener of to-day is less
efiScient or less attentive to his studies than the young gardener of the past,
but one fact in the modern man is worth notice. I allude to his eagerness to
get under the shelter of a glass roof. " To be employed in the houses" is the
height of his ambition, and a good hardy- plant man can't well be obtained either
"for love or money.' Out of fifty replies to an advertisement for a young
journeyman gardener, forty-three manage to convey the idea, more or less
explicitly, that they want to be "under glass." Two say "indoor or out,"
and with five others it remains an open question. A large proportion of these
replies — nearly forty, in fact—were in good bold handwriting, spelling correct,
and grammar also, on the whole, very good. Only one solitary reply out of
the whole fifty was really bad. Here it is : —

"My Dere sur, — hif you want a gud mannhin the hose I wilcon fur apund a
weak as you sed in yure hadvartsmen that 18 shillgs pur weak wad be givn
I wad, like to hev a pund has I know my bussines as well as heny hed gardner
— yurs, &c,'

"P.,S'. — write back return post has I may be wanted sumwere. "

Comment upon this letter would be supeifluous. One or two others whose
writing was certainly irreproachable said they were "not particular" as to
wages, but would be contented to accei)t "from 30?. to 50s. per week." Three
would only come on condition that they should succeed to the " foreman's
place " if he left " during their time." One man could " play the organ," one
had been " used to a cow," and two of them could "sing in a quire." One
young gentleman, who wrote on fancy heavily-perfumed note-paper, enclosed
his carte-de-visite, and remarked that he had a " lovely tenor voice." I wrote
off to my friend Mr Mapleson at ouce on his behalf. Once or twice I regretted

i88i.] BOTANY FOR GARDENERS. 225

I did not telegraph instead. Two others — oae aged nineteen, the other twenty-
four — w'anted "a place in which they could get married ;" and three more
offered premiums varying from £5 to £10 for the place. Seven were garden-
ers' sons, and referred to their fathers amongst other employers. One was a
" humble boy, " and two very rightly desired to have "a Christian master. "
But, as I before said, the great anxiety of their minds — the one idea struggling
to the surface — of more consequence to them than the organ, the cow, the
quire, Christian master, foreman's place, or lovely tenor voice, is the morbid
craving to be " under glass." Writer.

BOTA]SrY FOR GARDENERS.

XO. Yll. — THE OVULE, vtC.

Before alluding to the Ovule, it will perhaps be better for me to give a
few brief words on the stamens and pistils, essential to all plants for
the production of fruit. Stamens are the male organs of the plant,
and consist of a bundle of spiral vessels surrounded by cellular tissue,
termed the filament, at the top of which will be found the anthers,
that finally open and discharge their contents — pollen — which is
usually a powdery matter, and by whose action on the stigma the
fertilisation of the ovules is accomplished. A familiar example of
pollen will be found in the common garden Crocus. Let the reader
take a stamen from the flower of this plant and gently rub it between
the finger and thumb, and he will find both covered with pollen-grains ;
thus it will be easy to account for the short crops of fruit sometimes
taking place. Last year, for example, the continuous rains probably
washed away the greater part of these small grains, and thus prevented
their being fertilised with the pistil, without which the natural con-
sequence is, short crop. Pistils — the female organs — are always in
perfection simultaneously with the male parts (stamens): they (the pis-
tils) are composed usually of the stigma — the parts at or near the point
— to which the pollen must be applied to fertilise the seed ; the style,
usually very long, but sometimes absent, supporting the stigma ; and
the ovarium, or embryo seed-vessel. The stigma is invariably viscid or
clammy, so that immediately the pollen bursts from the anthers it
adheres to it. In the saffron of shops will be recognised the stamens
of a Crocus (Crocus sativus) ; and no wonder it is so expensive, con-
sidering that only three stamens are found in one flower, taking, as a
matter of course, a goodly number to make a pound in weight. In
some cases the male and female organs are in separate flowers, the
fertilisation of which is often performed by insects, &c. ; and it is on
the number of both stamens and pistils that the great Linnaeus based
his system of botany — now, however, in disuse, the natural system being
much preferred by modern botanists. I shall probably say a few words
about both systems in a future number. The Ovule is the rudiment
of a future seed, and is inserted in the lower portion of the carpel,

22o THE GARDENER. [May

■which is popularly known as the ovary. xV familiar and easily ob-
tained example can be found by carefully making a vertical section of
a carpel of the common Buttercup, each carpel containing one ovule.
In coniferous and cycadaceous plants, the ovule is exposed and naked
to the influence of the pollen. It (the ovule) is regarded by many
botanists in most cases as a marginal bud, being borne upon the
margins of carpellary leaves, — bringing us to the conclusion that the
inner angle of each carpel, upon which the seeds are arranged, answers
to the line of union of its unfolded edges. This line is called the veii-
tral suture. " If you split a Pea carefully," says Prof. Oliver, " opening
up the edge bearing the seeds, you will find, when laid open, that half
of the seeds are on one edge, half on the other, each margin being
alternately seed-bearing." Up the middle of the open carpel you have
a strong line or nerve (the outer angle when the carpel was closed;,
which is simply the midrib of the carpellary leaf, answering to the
midrib which we find in foliage plants. This line is called the dorsal
suture. In shape and mode of insertion ovules are somewhat numer-
ous, and very interesting. When it is curved downwards so as to
approach the placenta (the part on which the ovule originates), it is
camptotroijal ; when curved and grown to the lower half, anatropal ;
when attached by its middle, so that the foramen (the aperture
through the integuments, to allow the passage of the pollen-tubes to
the central part of the ovule in which the embryo is contained) is at
one end and the base at the other, it is campylotropal ; when the shape
of a horse-shoe, it is lycotropal. There are a few other shapes,
which it is not necessary to explain here.

W. Roberts.
( To he continued. )

JOTTINGS FROM NEW ZEALAND.

CLIMATIC INFLUENCES.

In our last paper we were necessarily bound within certain limits, as
we were anxious to represent a garden rather than the climatic influ-
ences of the country. We will now return to the subject, and endeav-
our to treat it in a more liberal manner. Our summer months, which
include December, January, and February, are characterised by great
heat and dryness. Often not a drop of rain falls for six or eight weeks :
the ground then becomes so hot that even the occurrence of a heavy
fall of rain serves only to clear the leaves from dust, since it evaporates
as quickly as it falls. The autumn season begins with March and ends
with May, and may be considered the most genial and beautiful part
of the year. The indigenous vegetation which has sufi'ered through
the summer now awakes to new life, while trees and shrubs put forth
fresh growth : the European deciduous trees and shrubs mature their

i8Si.] JOTTINGS FROM NEW ZEALAND. 227

wood, and, autumn-like, drop their leaves. June, July, and August
constitute the winter and rainy season, during which rain falls more
than enough, if it were put to the popular vote. But seeing that it
takes the place of snow, and gives to the ground many fertilising quali-
ties, we do not get too much of it. Heavy hoar-frosts appear during night,
which have often disastrous effects upon the introduced tropical and
sub-tropical vegetation. The spring is introduced by September and
terminates with November. During this season of the year the gardens
may be considered in their best condition of floral beauty — trees, shrubs,
perennials, and annuals emulate each other in their display of colour
and perfection of beauty. From this short climatic sketch it will
be readily understood that to attempt a universal acclimatisation of
plants would be rather a diflicult undertaking. The alpine and tropi-
cal ones suffer not only from dryness, but likewise *-he latter from frost
during winter.

Not many European or North American forest -trees prosper with
us. The Elm, Plane, Ash, Chestnut, and Poplar do fairly well ; while
the Oak, Lime, Birch, and Horse-Chestnut do anything but well. All
attempts to grow the beautiful Beech-tree have as yet failed. It will
therefore be at once seen that our gardens do not present that lively
appearance during spring which is one of the grandest features of
British gardens —

" When all the trees, on all the hills,
Open their thousand leaves. "

To the coniferous family this climate offers special advantages, from
the fact that the Californian, Himalayan, and Japanese varieties all
produce cones in abundance. The trees grow to a gigantic size, and give
to a garden a grand oriental appearance. From "the world's flora"
we may select freely. The East Indies favours us with many of its
beauties. From South America we have the famous Jacaranda, Brug-
mansia, Tecomas, and many kinds of Begonias : only one or two of
the African Palms prosper in the open ground. The succulent family
do remarkably well, and develop to great perfection, especially Yuccas,
Aloes, and Agaves. It is a pleasing sight to see Aloe americana and
mexicana throwing up their flower-spikes to the height of 30 or 40
feet, which they usually do after the eighth year of planting. The
growth of perennials generally succeeds well. Phloxes, Delphiniums,
and Aconitums make a grand show in their season. Annuals generally
grow best during the early spring months, and arrive at great perfection.
The China Aster, however, does not equal those at home, for at its best it
produces small insignificant flowers ; and, strange to say, all its endless
varieties go back to the original type. For summer display we have to
depend to a large extent upon Petunias, Verbenas, Zinnias, Zonal Pelar-
goniums, Tagetes, Amaranths, and Gomphrenas : these annuals, being
deep-rooted, are able to bridge over the dry season. All the bulbous

Q

228 THE GARDENER. [May

and tuberous plants from the Cape succeed as well as in their native
country, and when planted with some aim at arrangement they make
a grand autumn display. The natural moisture of the climate makes
it a very genial home for many kinds of ferns — from the great Tree-
fern down to the lowly Pellaia : the finer sorts of Adiantum have only
one representative — viz., Adiantum sethiopicum. Of fruits we have
a long list — such as Apples, Pears, Apricots, Peaches, Nectarines,
Oranges, Lemons, Plums, Figs, Olives, Guavas, and Mulberries. To
go through the country when Peaches are in bloom is one of the sights
of the season. Apples grow to a large size, and the trees literally
groan under the weight of fruit; they have, however, to do battle
against attacks of American blight, for which no reliable remedy has
as yet been found : in many cases the tree at last succumbs to this
dreadful scourge. All the stone-fruit producing trees are short-lived,
especially those of the Peach type, which seldom live beyond fourteen
years. Apples, in like manner, decline at an early age : no doubt this
is caused by quick luxuriant growth and early and excessive bearing.
The Pears grow to perfection, while the fruit of Peaches, &c., &c., attain
a size and acquire a flavour almost unknown in the " old country." Vines
bear plentifully in sheltered situations, though somewhat wanting in
flavour. A German company have taken in a large tract of land,
which they propose forming into a vineyard. They say the climate is in
every way suited for the production of the finest wines. Grapes are
grown for market, by market-gardeners, in shed-like buildings with
glass roofs. By this means they bring them in early, without the ex-
pense of artificial heat, and readily dispose of them at one shilling per
pound, which leaves a fair profit. The Phylloxera has not yet made its
appearance amongst the vine plantations of the colony, though in the
neighbouring colony of Victoria it is in full force. It may be the
climate is against it. The cultivation of the Olive is likely to succeed ;
if so, it will be a great source of wealth to the colony. For vegetable
culture the spring months are very suitable. Cauliflower may some-
times be seen 2 feet in diameter. Asparagus does remarkably well.
Peas grow rapidly, but do not stand long. Turnips, Carrots, and other
root-crops may be had the year round by successive sowings. Leeks
and Onions grow to a size not often seen in British gardens. The
summer months, owing to their excessive dryness, do not favour
kitchen-garden operations, and during this period the housekeeper's
demands cannot always be supplied.

In conclusion, we may safely say the climate is too independent of
artificial appliances to call forth any great amount of horticultural
skill ; and to the trained gardener I do not think it offers a very tempt-
ing field for operations. Undoubtedly at no very distant period it will
become a great fruit-producing country, but even here little skill will
be required saving in the raising of young stock. Such climates as
that of Britain, where the rigour of winter calls forth all the energies

i88i.] RECIPROCAL ACTION. 229

and appliances which art can invent, is certainly the most likely to
advance that art which strives to give to colder climes that which
more sunny climes produce. Wm. Forbes.

AiiCKLAND, N.Z., Fclriiary 2, 1881.

RECIPROCAL ACTION.

This phrase has a rather learned and respectable sound when used by
a writer on the subject of roots or branches, and is supposed to ex-
press much or little meaning just according to circumstances; but it is
a much-prostituted term, and ought to be properly cleared up. The words
were, we believe, invented by the physiologist to denote some kind of
sympathetic action existing between the roots and the top of a tree —
akin to that which is said to exist between the dog's head and its tail;
but what that sympathy is, and where it begins or ends, nobody knows,
although its presumed existence is made to do duty in a hypothetical
capacity on many occasions. Teetotallers say the tippler's general apology
is, that he requires spirits in winter to keep him warm, and in summer
to keep him cool ; and gardeners and botanists, it is to be feared, em-
ploy " reciprocal action " on the same principle — it is a good peg. We
are taught that if we want to create superabundant vigour in a vine or
other tree, we must encourage growth in order to encourage roots, and
a corresponding development of both ; and next, that the way to in-
crease the vigour of the same tree is to cut all this growth away at
the winter pruning, or nearly all, — two quite opposite methods of at-
taining the same end. One much-respected and noted author is at
great pains to explain, physiologically, how the top limbs of certain
horizontally-trained fruit-trees are very apt to grow over-luxuriantly
at the expense of the lower ones unless persistently checked by the
stopping of the summer's growth ; and in the same breath it is also
stated that in order to make the w^eak lower branches stronger, they
must be pruned back severely : and it is all connected in some mys-
terious way with " reciprocal action " — so we are told. It has struck
the writer frequently that it must be a marvellously consistent theory
which teaches that in order to produce vigorous Vines, for example,
we must encourage them to produce as many limbs and leaves as
possible the first year or two, and then cut all the said limbs off at
pruning-time for exactly the same reason that they were encouraged
to grow. A greater writer than practitioner has written and ex-
plained how the leaves pump up moisture with astonishing force, and
that the more pumps the more roots— ^.e., reciprocal action— forgetting
that some plants, like the Vine, send up their sap with the greatest
mechanical force when there are no leaves, otherwise pumps, upon the
tree at all. But though the cultivator blames the branches for encour-
aging the roots— or, as was said lately, " it is the leaves that apply the

230 THE GARDENER. [May

stimulus to the roots " — lie does not act as if he believed it ; for when
his trees grow over-strongly, he makes no pretence of controlling the
roots by cutting off the branches, but sets about controlling the branches
by cutting off the roots. In practice he finds himself totally unable
to make his theories fit. We have, indeed, neither the head nor the
tail of a theory in many things we do in the garden. In dealing with
such questions there is a tendency to forget what Dr Lindley used to
say underlay all other problems of vegetable physiology, and that is
vital force — life. So far as the practical application of the theory of
reciprocal action is concerned, the despised Chinese gardeners are far
more consistent than we are. The Chinese theory is, that it is the
roots which apply the stimulus to the branches ; and they adapt their
practice accordingly, and succeed admirabl3^ They scout the idea
of restraining root-action, or top vigour either, by curtailing the
branches ; but they do restrain the roots, and by that means alone they
make the smallest dwarfs of the greatest giants of the forest. Their
Oaks in thumb-pots and Mandarine Orange-trees are never pinched nor
pruned, and yet they are always veritable dwarfs. The Chinaman, in
short, sets out with the assumption that the vitality lies in the roots,
and he troubles himself about neither stocks nor pruning, and beats
us hollow in the production of dwarf-trees and fertility in whatever
subject he tries his hand upon. This may not be reckoned a " prac-
tical article " by some of your readers, but it suggests practical ideas,
and the subject is one that has been present to my mind on many
occasions in connection with work, and it is not unworthy of further
consideration, as it raises questions that go to the root of many
cultural operations. J. S., W.

HOIlIZO]SrTALLY TRAINED PEACH-TREES.

I SHALL be much pleased to show " J, S." a Peach and Nectarine tree
horizontally trained in a lean-to house. It is 46 feet long by 14 wide,
the two trees filling it. Every gentleman, gardener, or novice ex-
claims, on entering the house, " What beautiful trees ! '' I have
gathered eight hundred fruit off the two trees. They are now twelve
years old. In my experience they are less trouble in training, dis-
budding, ifec; and when they attain their full size, or "fill the house,"
any one once shown can do all that is required to them. I have a
Royal George Peach in another house sixteen years old, and a number
of specimens in other houses from last season's maidens to five-year-
olds. I find I have a better set of fruit on my horizontal trees than
on those fan-trained, owing, I think, the last dull season or two, to
the young wood being more exposed to the light and air.

Eromegnar.

i88i.] DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCL\TION. 231

ORCHIDS IN BLOOM.

At Ceaigleith Nursepjes, Edinburgh.

Cypripedium Sedeni.

I! boxallii.

Cattleya citrina.
Coelogyne cristata.
Dendrobium chrysotoxum.

II crepidatum.

II cry&talliuum.

II densiflorum,

II cambridgeanum.

II Bensonia?.

II Jamesianum.

II luteolum.

II nobile.

II Wallichii.

II Pierardi.

II primulinum.

11 II giganteum.

II Kingianum.

II tortile.

M Wardianum.

I. II (tine var).

Epidendrum vitellinum majus.
April 16.

Lycaste Skinned, fine variety.
Masdevallia Lindeni.

II ignea.

Mesospinidium sanguineum.
Odontoglossum Alexandra (many fine
varieties).
II cirrhosum.

II nfevium.

II Pescatorei, (many fine

varieties).
II pulchelhim majus.

II Roezlii album.

II roseum.

Oneidium concolor.
II cucullatum.

II sarcodes.

Phalsenopsis grandiflora.
II Schilleriana.

Sophronites grandiflora.
Zygopetalum Mackayi,

II intermedium.

J. Cole.

APONOGETON DISTACHYON.

AVe have received from Mr Parker of Tooting Nursery a box of blooms of this
lovely, sweet-scented, hardy aquatic, which for robustness of growth quite
astonishes us. The flower-stems are as thick as a man's little finger, and the
size of blooms quite in proportion, of course. It blooms the whole winter
in a brook of spring-water at Tooting, and all who can so accommodate the
Aponogeton should not be without it.

DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The ordinary monthly meeting of this Association was held in the Imperial
Hotel, Dundee, on Friday evening the 1st ult., the president, Mr D. Doig, in
the chair. Mr W. S. Watt, landscape-gardener, Broughty Ferry, read his
second paper — " Effect in Suburban Landscape Gardening." After describing
the style in which villa grounds were laid out and planted in the neighbourhood
thirty or forty years ago, he said : "It seems very desirable to preserve in all
time coming every interesting view of external scenery that can be obtained
from the mansion or any part of the grounds ; and this could be done by
planting dwarf subjects only in front of mansions. On the other hand, un-
sightly objects could be hidden by planting trees of rapid and taller growth.
In planting for eftect, the experienced landscape-gardener would carefully
select those subjects that harmonised and contrasted in foliage and in habits
of growth." Mr Watt divided the first into four classes — flowering trees,
variegated-foliaged trees, coniferous trees, trees changing colour in autumn ;
and the second into groups or characters — round-headed trees, oblong-topped
trees, spiral -topped trees, spreading trees. He also named a few repre-
sentative ornamental evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs for groups,

232 THE GARDENER. [May

or single specimens on the la^^^l, where the character of the ground and
situation were favourable. With such a variety of materials at command,
the intelligent planter, by judicious grouping and wise distribution, would
be able to form scenes of great interest and picturesque beauty. The
grouping system, where it could be carried out, was preferable to any other.
Dense backgrounds could be formed, and these again relieved by foreground
masses of rich variegated shrubs of striking character. These, again, could
be "toned down"' by dwarf plants having silent shades of green with
tlowers. Boundary belts should exhibit in the garden or lawn side bold
curvatures of outline, in the deep recesses of which the ingenious gardener
might erect rockeries and grottos, or form lakes, rivulets, and cascades. Mr
AVatt did not approve of the annual digging of clumps and shrub borders, as
much injury was done to the young roots thereby. All mural decorations, he
thought, should harmonise in style with the mansion, as should also the
design of flower-garden if seen from the windows. September and October he
considered the best months in which to plant evergreens, then deciduous
plants. The next best period was from April to May inclusive, but the opera-
tion, if conducted properly, would be successful at other seasons, the dead of
winter excepted, which he found the worst.

Mr James Scrymgeour then read a lengthy paper on " Horticultural Exhibi-
tions." At the outset he said that, though personally greatly in favour of
such exhibitions, it might not be amiss if he recounted some of the objections
against them. He had met with those who, though practically favourable in
other respects to shows, did not care for their own gardeners becoming com-
petitors. They considered that the needful if not monopolising care, attention,
skill, and exertion required for special flowers, fruits, and vegetables, for which
they expected prizes and honours, proved detrimental to the general interests
of the garden. The gardener's heart and affections being set upon certain petted
and pampered favourites, to the detriment of all the unschedulable things under
his charge, his mantjeuvring with those favourites, among which he saw medals,
cups, cash, and honour, and the time and skill spent in forcing certain speci-
mens forward and keeping others back for certain shows, were far too much,
and the garden suffered accordingly. Moreover, the great bunches of prize
grapes, raised at the expense of numerous bunches ruthlessly nipped off the
vine without an opportunity of ripening, were not so sweet and pleasant as
the ordinary bunches. He had tasted of the great berries of the prize bunches
praised in all the newspapers, and found them poor indeed. He had also
tasted of berries taken from the biggest prize bunch ever shown in Scotland, at
Edinburgh, and found them, as did the fox of old, "sour as crabs." Mr
Scrymgeour, after forcibly pointing out the advantages of shows in stimulating
horticultural enterprise and promoting a love of flowers as a refining and civil-
ising influence, adverted to various of the leading features of shows with warm
commendation or denunciatory animadversion. His condemnation of the con-
duct of some mere prize-mongers was very severe. In showing the progress in
horticulture made by working men, even in large towns, he stated that not a
few of them had daringly entered the list with the gardener class, and not un-
frequently defeated them in vegetables and flowers. Some of the heaviest
specimens of vegetables, and the most splendid Fuchsias, Liliums, Geraniums,
and Ferns (British and exotic) ever seen at Dundee shows, were raised by
working men. In extolling the working men of Baledgarno, who every year
carry such a large and notable proportion of the prize-money at Dundee shows,
he gave a brief sketch of their village, and history of their society. From a sad

i88i.] R. C. HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 233

experience of the effects of drinking and dancing at country shows, he was led
to denounce such practices. Holding flower-shows as being ostensibly got up
in the best interests of our humanity, bearing on Christian civilisation, he de-
nounced the use of intoxicants among the promoters and servants, and also at
the dinners of the judges and committee. Instead of providing the judges of
fruit with brandy, as was usually done in their tasting and discriminating
operations, he proposed that they should follow the example of many of the
great tea-merchants, who had very delicate work in tasting tea samples, by
using a few drops of Condy's Fluid in a glass of water, and which would serve
the purpose more effectively than brandy, as sixpence- worth of Condy's Fluid
would go farther than £100 worth of brandy.

Both papers were much appreciated, Mr Scrymgeour's remarks giving rise to
considerable discussion. Mr Edward Moir, Newport, exhibited a splendid pot
of Saxifraga burserianum, clothed with at least one hundred and twenty
blooms of delicate white flowers. Two trusses of the beautiful snow-white
Rhododendron Duchess of Buccleuch, with richly perfumed flowers, fully
three inches in diameter, were also exhibited by Mr William Alison, Sea view
Gardens, Monifietb, A vote of thanks to the chairman terminated the pro-
ceedinsjs.

ROYAL CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. ^

The spring exhibition of this Society on the 6th and 7th of last month, not-
withstanding the severe weather of the eight days preceding it, and the in-
tense frost on the morning of the first day's show, was a very successful one,
the tout ensemble being enhanced by the wintry nakedness everywhere out of
doors when compared with the brightness within the AVaverley Market on these
two days. Some of the classes, as for example those for Hyacinths, were not
up to their usual quality; but on the other hand, the Azaleas were finer than
have been seen in Edinburgh for a number of years. Picking out the more
important features in the prize-list, we must revert to Hyacinths, and find that
the twelves were eclipsed by the premier collection of nine sorts staged by
Mr Pearson of Beechwood. Czar Peter, Geoeral Havelock, Koh-i-noor, Superb-
issima alba. Garibaldi, Charles Dickens, and Von Schiller were very fine.
Tulips were gay, of course, but the individual flowers smaller than they are
when a limited number are grown in each pot. In the classes for one and four
Azaleas, Mr Paul's large cone-shaped specimens were placed before the equally
robust though not so shapely bushes of ^Mr Paterson. For the six stove or
greenhouse plants, Mr Paterson held his old position ; but here his antagonist
followed very closely on his heels. The premier collection was composed of a
large Anthurium Schertzerianum, a Tetratheca, two Azaleas, an Erica, and a
huge Chorozema. Mr Paul's lot was made up of an extra large specimen of
Coelogyne cristata (only thinly bloomed), two Azaleas, a very good Countess
of Haddington Rhododendron, and Genetyllis tulipifera. There was nothing
noteworthy about the foliage-plants. The table of plants set up by Mr Priest
was well balanced, and contained, besides well-flowered examples of Azaleso
and other decorative plants, a few good Orchids, notably two very good vari-
eties of Odontoglossum Pescatorei, 0. Alexandra, Masdevallia Lindeni, and a
distinct variety of Odontoglossum Lindleyanum with shorter and more obtuse
floral segments than ordinary varieties, the ground-colour being of a lemon
shade instead of a greenish-yellow in ordinary forms. The second-prize table

234 , THE GARDENER. [May

wa? also a very bright and attractive one; while the third in the prize-list was
especially rich in Orchids, but not well arranged. The tables of hardy spring
ilowering-plants were interesting as usual, and were especially so as showing
the poor hold esthetics have gained in the north, the exhibitor who had his
flowers arranged out of pots au nnturelle being "plucked." In the Orchid
classes some good plants were staged. Mr Paul's four consisted of Vanda
suavis, Oncidium sarcodes, Phaloeuopsis Schilleriana, and Dendrobium thyrsi-
tlorum. Mr Priest's two were a strong plant of Dendrobium iimbricatum oc-
culatum giganteum and a healthy plant of Cypripedium caudatum. Mr
Paul's single specimen was a grand Odontoglossum Pescatorei with three
branched spikes, with 150 to 160 flowers open altogether. Deutzias, Hoteias,
Lily of the Valley, Mignonette, pot-Roses, Rhododendrons, and Cyclamens
were generally well represented, the premium lots being in all cases excellent.
Cut-Roses were not up to the mark, the buds being small and wanting in
colour. Fruit was poorly represented ; Apples were good — so were the prize
CiJrapes and the single Pine-apple shown. Vegetables were a wonderfully good
show when we consider the season, some fine Leeks, Mushrooms, &c., being
staged. Mr Potter's collection contained a few extra-fine dishes.

There was only slight competition in the nurserymen's classes. Messrs
Downie & Laird's Hyacinths, Rhododendrons, and Cyclamens were, as
usual, fine — their table in the centre of the hall being conspicuous by the
gigantic specimen Rhododendrons it was mainly made up of: Mrs J. Clutton,
Lady Clerk, Brilliant Comet, Broughtoni, Michael Waterer, Purity, and Joseph
Whitworth were particularly noteworthy. Messrs T. Methven & Sons' table
alongside was also mainly composed of Rhododendrons and specimen Palms ;
the semi-double Rhododendron flexuosum fl. -pleno was particularly telling.
Some good specimens of Todea superba were also set up in this collection. At
the other flank of Messrs Downie & Laird's, Messrs Ireland & Thomson had as
usual a very bright and attractive table of new and ornamental plants, con-
spicuous amongst them being double-flowering Thorns, Lilacs, Azaleas, Sta-
phylea colchica, with Palms, Crotons, new Coleus, &c., and a great number of
flowering Orchids of popular sorts, many of them in good varieties. The
Lawson Seed & Nursery Co. had an attractive table at the extreme west end
of the Market. A lot of Amaryllis were very telling on this table. Messrs
Drummond Bros, filled a table with much the same kind of material. Mr
Taylor, Hermitage, Leith, showed a large table of market plants, consisting
mostly of Hyacinths in various shades, crimson Tulips, Lily of the Valley,
and Hoteia japonica. Mr Robertson Munro, Portobello, showed 5, table of
attractive spring-flowering plants, a number of rare kinds being included.
Messrs Todd & Co., Maitland Street, had bouquets and some remarkably fine
buds of Devoniensis Rose. But in the way of bouquets, crosses, and a floral
wreath, Messrs W. Thomson & Sons, Clovenfords, eclipsed all others in the
style theirs were got up in, combined with simplicity in the arrangement of the
flowers. Mr Potts, Fettes Mount, Lasswade, staged a collection of 260 sorts
Saxifragas. Messrs Stuart & Co. have applied their patent granolithic to the
formation of vases, and showed some specimens at this show. Two of those
shown are for the West Princes Street Gardens, and struck us as being remark-
ably like the material they are intended to take the place of — sandstone. The
manufacturers claim greater durability for them than any other kind of stone.
They are certainly worth looking after by those who are in the way of buying
such articles. The design of the vases is good, though the pedestal is anything
but pleasing in its effect.

iSSi.]

R. C. HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

235

Special awards were bestowed on some Vanda blooms from Mr M'Intyre,
The Glen ; and on a basket of flowers from Mr M'Millan, Broadmeadows. It
was hardly possible to believe that the combination of blue Cinerarias, and
pink, crimson, and scarlet Geraniums, of which this arrangement was made
up, should have had such a recognition by the judges, after the teaching they
have received during the last decade.

First-class certificates were awarded to Messrs Ireland & Thomson for a
white sweet-scented Rhododendron named Thomsonii ; Mr Robertson Munro,
for Soldanelia minima alba; Mr Potts, for Saxifraga Fettestonia aurea.

The judges were — Messrs James Henderson, Cow^den Castle; Neil Glass, Car-
brook; Lunt, Ardgowan; D. Henderson, Castle "Wemyss ; T, Gellatly, Gosford ;
Lament, Kennet ; jMorrison, Archerfield; Ormiston, Alloa Park; Currie,
Peebles; Rutledge, Freelane ; Ramsay, Fordell ; and "Wilson, Murdiston.
Daring the afternoon and evening the band of the 71st Highlanders played
selections of music. So far as the number of visitors was concerned, the show
was a decided success. In the afternoon it was patronised by between three
and four thousand people, including a number of the nobility. In the even-
ing there was also a large attendance.

The following is the prize-list : —

GARDENERS AND AJIATEURS,

Twelve Hyacinths, not less than twelve
sorts. — 1, A. Crombie, Ptoyal Asylum,
Moruingside ; 2, G. M'Clure, Trinity
Grove ; 3, H. Syme.

Nine distinct Hyaciuths, — 1, J. Pear-
son, Beechwood ; 2, R, M. Reid, Ravens-
wood ; 3. J. Fowler.

Six distinct Hyacinths. —1, W. Penn,
Liberton ; 2, G. Lawrie, Merchiaton ; 3,
A. Dunlop.

Six distinct Hyacinths (Attateurs). —
G. Drummond, Grange Road,

Four pots Polyanthus-Narcissus, sorts,
pots not exceeding 9 inches.— 1, W. Pear-
son ; 2, S. Graham, Kilravock Lodge ;
3, J. Spence.

Nine pots Tulips, sorts, pots not ex-
ceeding 9 inches (First Prize by IMaken-
zie & Moncur, horticultural builders). —

1, A. Crombie ; 2, G. M'Lure.

Six pots Tulips, sorts, pots not exceed-
ing 9 inches. — 1, T. Macdonald, Ash6eld,
Grange Loan ; 2, R. Jolmston, Woolmet,
Dalkeith ; 3, W. Penn.

Twelve pots Narcis.sus, garden sorts,
varieties. — J. Gordon, Niddrie Gardens.

Six pots Narcissus, do. — 1, J, Spence,
Oswald Road; 2, G. M'Luie.

Four Rhododendrons, in pots or tubs,
hardy.— 1, G. M'Lure ; 2, C. Smith, Res-
talrig House.

Two Rhododendrons, do.— 1, C. Smith ;

2, Hugh Mackenzie, Blackford Brae.
One specimen Azalea. — 1, A. Paul,

Henderson Cottage, Gilmore Place ; 2,
J. Paterson, Millbank.

Four Azalea indica, varieties (First
Prize by the Corporation of the City of
Edinburgh).—!, A. Paul ; 2, J. Paterson ;
8, C. Smith.

Two Azalea indica, varieties. — 1, J.
Paterson ; 2, A. Paul.

Three do., pots not exceeding 8 inches,
— 1, J. Paterson; 2, J. Fowler, Grange
Road,

Six Greenhouse or Stove Plants, in
flower, distinct varieties, not more than
two Azaleas. — 1, J. Paterson ; % A.
Paul.

Three Greenhouse or Stove Plants, in
flower, distinct varieties, not more than
one Azalea. — 1, J. M'Cormick, Grange
Loan ; 2, G. M'Lure,

Six Foliage Plants, pots not exceeding
8 inches. — 1, J. M'Cormick ; 2, S.
Graham.

Four Foliage Plants, excluding Ferns.
— 1, S-. Graham ; 2, R. M. Reid.

Two Foliage Plants, do.— 1, J. Pater-
son ; 2, J. M'Cormick.

Six Plants for table decoration, pots
not to exceed 6 inches. — 1, J, M'Cormick;
2, J. M'Leod, Brenthan Park, Stirling.

Table of Plants, 20 feet by 5 feet.— 1,
Wm. Priest, Newbattle Abbey ; 2, R. M.
Reid ; 3, A. Paul.

Table of Hardy Spring Flowering
Plants, 10 feet by 5 feet.— 1, G. M'Lure;
2, C. Smith.

Two Dracsenas. — 1, S. Graham ; 2, J.
M'Cormick.

One Specimen Croton. — 1, J. Pater-
san ; 2, R. M. Reid.

Four Palms.— 1, J. Paterson; 2, T.
Macdonald.

One Palm. — T. Macdonald,

Four Orchids.— 1, -A. Paul ; % J. Laid-
law, Liberton.

Two Orchids. —1, W. Priest; 2, A.
Paul.

136

THE GARDENER.

[May

One Orchid.— 1, A. Paul ; 2, J. Laid-
law.

Six Exotic Ferns, sorts. — 1, A. Paul ;
2, T. Macdonald.

Three do., in pots not exceeding 9 in.
—1, S. Graham ; 2, T. Macdonald.

Three Adiantums, sorts, ^1, S. Gra- j
ham ; 2, W, Pearson.

Two pots or pans Lycopodium, diflfer-
ent species. — I, W. Henderson, Polmont ; I
2, J. Cos-^ar, Linlithgow. i

One Tree Fern, not less than 3 feet '
stem. — T. Macdonald. !

Four Cape Heaths. — 1, J. Paterson ;
2, J. M'Cormick.

Three pots Amar3dlis, varieties. — 1, T.
Macdonald ; 2, G. M'Lure.

Two Deutzia Gracilis.— 1, W. Bennet,
Hanley ; 2, G. M 'Lure.

One do. — 1, T. Macdonald ; 2, J.
M'Cormick.

Two Lilacs. — 1, W. Priest ; 2, James
Spence.

Three Spirtea japonica. — 1, T. Mac-
donald ; 2, A. Scott, Carberrv Tower.

Two Dielytra spectabilis. — J. Cossar.

Two Epacrises. — A. Paul.

Four Cinerarias, sorts. — 1, M. M'Intyre,
The Glen, Innerleithen ; 2, W. BeniiCtt,
Corstorphine.

Two do. — 1, J. Matheson, Lasswade ;
2, A. Hay. Linlithgow.

Twelve Camellia Blooms. — 1, J. Stew-
art; 2, C. Smith.

Six do. do. — 1, J. Stewart ; 2, Thomas
Bowman.

Six Rhododendron Trusses, of sorts. —

1, S. Graham ; 2, C. Smith.

A Hand Bouquet. — 1, J. Bald, Canaan
House ; 2, T. Bowman.

A Table Bouquet.— 1, H. Watson, Stir-
ling ; 2, J. Cossar.

Two Standard Mignonette. — S.Graham.

One do. — J. Cossar.

Two pots Miguonette. — 1, S. Graham ;

2, J. Cossar.

Three pots or pans Lily of the Valley.
— 1, W. Pearson ; 2, S. Graham.

One do.— 1, W. Pearson ; 2, G. M'Lure.

Four forced Roses in pots (First Prize
by Mr H. Dickson, nurseryman, Bel-
mont).— 1, J. Paterson ; 2, VV. Priest.

Two forced Roses, in pots. — 1, J. Pat-
erson ; 2, G. M'Lure.

Twenty-four cut Roses, not less than
twelve sorts. — T. Bowman.

Twelve ;cut Roses, not less than six
sorts. — C. Smith.

Twelve cut Roses, Marechal Niel. — 1,
W. Pearson ; 2, J. Gordon.

One Cactus, any sort. — W. Dougal,
Ferry Road.

Two single Primulas (Chinese).— 1, W.
Kay ; 2. W. Pearson.

Six Primula vulgaris, varieties.— W,
Pearson.

Two Stage Pelargoniums, in flower. —
Thos. Macdonald.

Twelve Cyclamens, not less than six
varieties.— 1, M. M'Intyre; 2. G. M'Lure.

Six do., three varieties.— 1, G. M'Lure;
2, J. Paterson,

Six pots Polyanthus, in flower. — 1, S.
Graham ; 2, R. Harvey, Colinton Road.

Six Auriculas, Alpine, in flower. — R.
Johnston.

Six Alpine Plants, in flower. — 1, A.
Paterson ; 2, G. Drummond.

One Pine Apple. — M. M'Intyre,

Thirty Strawbex'ries.- M. M'Intyre.

Two bunches of Grapes, black. — 1, A.
Anderson, Oxenford Castle, Dalkeith ; 2,
D. Kemp, Langlee, Galashiels.

Twelve Applts, cooking, six sorts,
named. — 1, G. Potter, Seaclifi" House,
North Berwick ; 2, J. Brunton, Gil-
merton.

Twelve do., dessert, three sorts, do. —

1, J. Brunton ; 2, J. Stewart, Catherine
Bank House, Newhaven Road.

Twelve Pears, dessert, three sorts,
named.— 1, J. Brunton ; 2, G. Potter.

Two Cucumbers. — R. Ferguson, Teviot
Bank, Merchiston.

Collection of Vegetables, eight sorts.
—1, G. Potter : 2, T. Bowman.

Six Heaviest Stalks Rhubarb. — 1, J.
Leyden, Rosewell ; 2, J. Stewart.

Six Heads Seakale. — 1, T. Bowman;

2, J. Stewart, Corstorphine.

Six Leeks.— 1, G. Potter; 2, J. Stew-
art, Corstorphine.

A Pint of Mushrooms.—], C. Smith ;
2, J. Gordon.

Three Cabbages.-l, G. Potter; 2, T.
Bowman.

Twelve Onions.— 1, T. Boyd, Callender
Park, Falkirk ; 2, T. Bowman.

Twenty-five Asparagus.— 1, G. Potter ;
2. T. Bowman.

Fifty Pods French Beans.— 1, R. P
Brotherston, Tyninghame ; 2, J. Boyd.

NURSERYMEN,

Eighteen distinct Hyacinths. — Messrs
Downie & Laird, West Coates Nursery.

Twelve Rhododendrons, hardy varie-
ties, in pots or tubs. — Messrs Downie &
Laird.

Six Rhododendrons, do., in pots not

exceeding 9 inches. — 1, Messrs Downie &
Laird ; 2, Messrs T. Methven & Sons.

Six Greenhouse Rhododendrons, —
Messrs Downie & Laird.

Twelve Camellia Blooms, six varieties,
— 1, Messrs W. Gordon k Sons, Colt-

i88i,

NOTICES OF BOOKS.

237

bridge ; 2, J. Bryson, Parkend, Helens-
burgh.

A Hand Bouquet.— 1, Messrs Todd &
Co., Maitland Street ; 2, Messrs Dowi ie
& Laird.

A Table Bouquet.— Messrs Todd &
Co.

Twelve cut Koses. — 1, J. Bryson ; 2,
George Sinclair.

Twelve Elooms Marechal Xiel Rose. —
1, George Sinclair ; 2, J. Bryson.

Twelve pots Cyclamens. — Messrs
Downie k, Laird.

Six forced Roses, in pots — J. Bryson.

Four Azaleas. — Messrs Downie k Laird.

Collection of Hardy Spring Flowers,
not less than twelve sorts. — R. Munro,
Piershill.

NOTICES OF BOOKS. :^

Improved Pruning and Training of Fruit-trees, or Extension versus
Restriction. By John Simpson, AVortley Hall Gardens. The 'Garden'
Office, 37 Southampton Street, London.

This is the first volume — so far as we are aware — that has been entirely
devoted to the explanation and advocacy of what is well known as the ex-
tension system of training fruit-trees. It is founded on the author's own
practice, and is on that account — if for no other — worthy of every respect,
especially as nowadays there are writers w^ho idealise on systems neither
they nor anybody else has ever practised. The extension system is by no
means of recent date, though not generally practised. Nearly forty years ago
the late Mr Peter Kay of Finchley was an ardent advocate and practiser of
the extension system in Peach-growing, and also in Vines, and filled houses
with young trees in very short spaces of time. To such a length did he carry
it out, that he allowed two, and sometimes three shoots from a Vine spur, and
allowed them to make three, four, and five joints beyond the bunches; and
those who were eyewitnesses to his crops at that time will bear us out in
saying that his Muscat and Hamburgs were splendid. He practised the
system advocated by Mr Simpson, in filling his Peach-houses rapidly ; and, so
far as our recollection carries us, the same principle was practised at Wrotham
Park about the year 1842. There can be no doubt about the hacking back
system, condemned by Mr Simpson, being wrong, and the extension system the
better for Peaches and Nectarines, especially under glass, where the wood
can be ripened. From our own experience we cannot pronounce so confidently
on Plums. We prefer a medium course for them, unless when under glass,
and where no doubt exists about ripening the wood. As to the extension
system for orchard Apples and Pears, there cannot be a doubt about its
superiority to the whittling system, demanded more or less by rows of trees
near garden-walks, where, in our opinion. Apples and Pears should never be
planted. We suspect the monks were cognisant of, and practised the ex-
tension system, just as it has been practised in large Apple-orchards ever
since their time. We commend Mr Simpson's little volume for a clear ex-
position of free training. U we have any fault to find, it is with his chapter
on Vine training; and do not think 2 feet for Hamburgs, &c., and 3 feet
for Barbarossa, sufficient width to grow really fine Vines. Mr Simpson refers
to the practice of market -gardeners in general, and to Garston and Tweed
Vineyard in particular, as bearing out the soundness of his views. But if we
mistake not, Vines planted by market-gardeners, as a rule, do not keep long
in good condition. It would be interesting to know* how the Vines at Garston,

238

THE GARDENER.

[Mav

trained at 2 feet, have gone on. At Tweed Vineyard the 2 feet system was
a temporary one, lasting only till the supernumeraries were cut out. Now
they are grown wider, with what result.s many are aware, and Covent Garden
salesmen in particular. To produce really fine Vines and crops, we consider
3 feet the minimum width for such as Hamburgs, but we prefer 6 or 9 inches
more. ■ AVith this exception, we commend the remarks of Mr Simpson to all
interested in fruit-tree training.

The Cherry and Medlar. Their History, Varieties, Cultivation, and
Diseases. By D. T. Fish. The Bazaar Office, 170 Strand, London.

In this treatise, Mr Fish has done for the Cherry and ^ledlar, what in
former ones he has done for the Peach, Plum, Pear, &c. ; but we think he has
done better in this instance, inasmuch as he has evidently studied brevity
more : and it will, like the others, be a help to all seeking infoimation on
Cherry and Medlar culture.

Ox the Art of Gardening. By Mrs Francis Forster.
& Co., London.

W. Satchel

This is evidently the work of a lady who has a warm attachment to what
some people call old-fashioned flowers, and what amounts to a dislike to the
new-fashioned ones. She is also brimful of sentiment concerning them.
Any practical hints the little hrochure contains, will no doubt be useful to
such as herself, who love a garden made up exclusively of hardy flowers. If
ever she writes a second edition, we would recommend her to have more
frequent recourse to some botanical dictionary.

"We shall be glad to hear from any one having the following numbers of the
* Gardener ' to part with : January 1874 ; January 1879.

FOKCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — 0 wing tothe wintry weather
which has prevailed all through March,
till nearly the middle of April, early
started Queens have not made such
rapid progress as usual ; and in cases
where they are required as early as
possible for the London season, they
may now be pushed on with higher
temperature. Let the night temper-
ature not be lower than from 70°
to 75° after 10 p.m. Shut them up
early on sunny afternoons, so that
the thermometer runs up to 95° for a
time. Give a corresponding amount
of air moisture by syringing the sur-
face of the bed, and the plants them-

selves lightly. Keep the bottom-heat
as steadily as possible about 90° ; and
see that the soil is never allowed to
become really dry, but avoid keeping
it very wet. Succession plants, shift-
ed two or three months ago, will
now be growing freely, and will re-
quire careful management as regards
air-giving and watering. As soon as
the thermometer touches 75° put a
little air on, and increase it gradually
till noon, when in calm w^arm days
the ventilation should be liberal to
keep the plants from drawing : 65° on
cold nights, and 70° when mild, will
be high enough all through this

i88i."

CALENDAR.

239

month. Sprinkle the plants lightly I
every fine day when the pits are shut
Tip, and moisten the surface of the
bed and paths, so as to keep the air
moist for the night. Keep the fires
low by day when there is sunshine ;
for hot pipes, a brilliant sun, and
maximum ventilation, make the at-
mosphere of the pits very injurious to
youDg growing Pines. By raising the
temperature, and giving more water
at the end of the month, plants that
have been resting for the last month
or so can be started into fruit for
the supply of ripe fruit in autumn.
Keep those intended for starting in
July steadily growing all through this
month. In watering Pines in all
stages of growth just keep the
soil moist, avoiding anything ap-
proaching to a wet sodden condi-
tion. Heavy syringings over the
])lants is a practice we object to.
The foliage should be dewed over
through a fine syringe, and the mois-
ture applied chiefly to the surface of
the bed and paths, &c.

Vines. — In early vineries, where
the Grapes are ripening, ventilate
freely, always leaving air on all night,
so as never to have a stagnant atmo-
sphere. Keep ripe Grapes cool and
dry, but do not carry the drying up
to an extreme, especially as regards
Vines that have their roots chiefly in
inside borders. Anything like starv-
ing them just now tells injuriously
on the Vines for another year. Never
let the border get dry, and when
watered give as much as will go right
through it, applying the water early
on a fine day, so that the surface dries
a little before night. Keep the foliage
on these early Vines as healthy as
possible. If red-spider appears, get
rid of it at once by sponging it oflF
with a soft sponge and tepid water.
In later vineries, where the Grapes
are swelling rapidly, keep up the
temperature with as little fire-heat as
possible. When the nights are cold
and frosty, as they often are in May,
rather drop the heat a few degrees,
than keep it up by force of firing.
If the thermometer is at 60° at 6 a.m.,
it is high enough, except for Muscats,
which we do not like to see in a cooler
temperature than 65" after the first of
this month. Shut up the vineries
early in the afternoon, so that the

sun runs up the heat to 85° or 90°
for a time, and sprinkle the surface
of the border, paths, &c. : open the
front lights an inch or two at 6 o'clock,
and leave them so all night. This
causes a circulation of invigorating
fresh air by its coming in at the bot-
tom of the house, and escaping at the
laps all over the roof, ]\luscats in
bloom should have a free circulation
of warm air about them, at the same
time giving the stems of the bunches
a tap about mid-day, so as to disturb
and distribute the pollen. Thin all
free - setting sorts immediately they
have shed their blooms. It is an un-
necessary strain on the Vines to leave
the thinning till the berries are nearly
as large as Peas, besides taking much
longer time to do the work. Avoid
heavy cropping and crowding of foliage
and wood as the greatest evils that
Vines can be subjected to. Look over
later Vines, and stop and tie them down
as they may require, two or three
times weekly. Examine all inside
borders, and never let them get dry,
giving good drenchings of water and
liquid manure, as the state of the
Vmes may call for. Avoid a close
damp atmosphere kept up by swilling
the inside of the vineries all day long
I with water. Everything about the
Vines and vinery should be dry for a
considerable time every day. A good
vapour - bath for a few hours in the
afternoon and evening does them good,
but this should not be continued. At-
tend carefully to young Vines plant-
ed a few weeks ago. Mulch their
roots with some litter to prevent rapid
evaporation from the soil. Keep
them regularly tied to the wires as
they advance, and allow them to
make growths sufficient to cover the
whole roof without crowding the
foliage.

Peaches. — To get Peaches now
ripening of good flavour, they require
to have a free circulation of air about

j them, and full exposure to the sun.

i Put aside all leaves that may be shad-
ing them, so that the sun can lay on
those rich mellow tinges peculiar to a
well-flavoured Peach. Syringe later
crops freely on fine afternoons, and
keep a strict watch on the state of the
soil where the roots are chiefly in
inside borders. Give good soakings
of manure-water, and if not already

240

THE GARDENER.

[May

done, lay a few inches of manure on
the surface of the borders. In dis-
budding and tying in the young wood,
reserve very little more than is suffi-
cient to furnish the trees with bearing-
wood f«)r next year. Thin the fruit
by degrees, and itiaally after they have
stoned. If green-fly appears, fumigate
with tobacco before it gets a footing.
In 1879 we syringed two trees with
parafiiu-oil and water after the leaves
dropped, and on these two trees there
was no green-fly last year. Last winter
the whole trees were dressed with par-
affin, and up till the middle of April
we have not detected a fly on some
thirty trees that were attacked before
the fruit were set last year. Pinch all
shoots that are growing much more
strongly than others on young trees,
so as to equalise the growth as much
as possible. Trees that are inclined
to grow too strongly can be checked
by rather heavy cropping.

Figs.— These will be swelling their
crop rapidly, and those started in De-
cember should begin to ripen before the
close of the month. Up till the time
of ripening, keep a moist atmosphere,
and syringe the trees freely every fine
day at shutting-up time. When the
first signs of ripening are noticed, dis-
continue syringing, and otherwise de-
crease the moisture and ventilate more
freely, so as to keep a circulation of
dry warm air about the trees, that the
Figs may be well-flavoured. Let the
night temperature be 65°. When the
second crop is well developed on the
young growths, thin them out in time.
A fair crop of large well-swelled fruits
is much to be preferred to a greater
number of inferior quality. Attend to
the tying of young growths on succes-
sion-trees, and do not crowd the foliage
by retaining more growths than are
needed to furnish the trees. See that
all trees in pots or restricted inside
borders are well supplied with water,
giving frequent applications of manure-
water.

Melons. — Sow and plant out for
succession-crops at the beginning and
end of the month. Attend regularly
to the tying and stopping of those
planted out last month, and see that
plants in bloom are impregnated regu-
larly. The best time for this is at
mid-day, when the pollen is most

likely to be well developed. The
amount and depth of soil for JNIelons
planted now should be more than for
early crops. Do not over-water crops
which are fully swollen, especially
should the weather be dull and damp,
or the fruits may crack. Whenever
they begin to change colour, expose
them as much as possible to the sun.
Give more air, and lessen the moisture
in the soil, but do not dry them off to
such an extent as will injuriously
effect the leaves ; for Melons can never
be properly finished unless the foliage
be retained in health. Syringe young
growing plants at shutting-up time,
and let the heat run up to about 90°
for a time with sun-heat. Do not let
the night temperature drop below 70°,
nor exceed 75°.

Cucumbers.— Plants that have been
bearing all winter and spring will now
be superseded by younger ones, and
the former may be done away with,
and the pit occupied with Melons or
Tomatoes. Sow at the beginning of
the month, to produce a batch of plants
to be put into frames and pits after
the tender flower-garden plants have
been planted out. Give plants in
full bearing occasional waterings of
manure- water, and top-dress the bor-
der with fresh loam and manure, if
the roots have come through the last
dressing. Thin out old growths, and
let young ones take their place.

Strawberries. — Unless carefully
managed, these, if grown on shelves
in hothouses, are apt to be very
troublesome with red-spider. Except
those in full bloom, syringe them
freely every day to keep them clean,
and see that they are never allowed
to get dry at the root. A good plan
after the first of this month is to fill
pots about half full of rich soil and
place the Strawberry -pots in them.
They root into the soil, and are very
much nourished thereby. This is
much better than placing the pots
in flats of water, which rots the roots
and spoils the flavour of the fruit.
All plants now done bearing may be
hardening off previous to being planted
out. The remainder of the stock yet
to fruit may be placed in pits and
frames near the glass, where they will
ripen before Strawberries are ready
outdoors.

i88i.]

CALENDAR.

2:tl

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

One of the driest months of March
we ever remember, and up to the 10th
of April, has passed. Though very
trying for both vegetable and animal
life, it certainly was in favour of
advancing work, and arrears in most
cases will be well brought forward.
Broccoli beiog early cleared off after
its destruction by frost, has given an
opportunity of getting extra space
cropped with Potatoes, or whatever
may be desired. Notwithstanding all
our fears, we observe most seeds
coming up. Strong clay land, which
has gone together like rock, and
cracked, has been dusted with line
soil, soot, and ashes, which will act
as protection from drought and slugs,
and stimulate the seedlings as well.
Insects and slugs must have every pre-
ventive used against them, as there
seems to be a great scarcity of birds to
clear them off, numbers having been
killed by the severity of the frost,
AVork of every kind will now increase ;
weeds especially will put in an unwel-
come appearance, and must be attacked
promptly, as destroying them when
young is easier than when they get
established in the ground. Let gar-
dening be ever so well done in other
respects, if slovenly and weedy, it may
be considered destitute of what is
most pleasant and attractive. It is
well to make sure that all crops are
vegetating, and if it is found that any
failures have taken place, make an
effort to meet the difficulty by sow-
ing at once : most things may yet be
sown or planted with tolerable suc-
cess. Onions may be begged from
any neighbour when their thinning
has taken place. They may be planted
well soaked with water, and when the
surface is dry enough, the hoe may
be run between the rows. One of the
best crops we ever ha.d was treated in
this way, the plants having travelled
miles, and been unduly delayed by rail.
Parsnips can be easily had in the same
way. Leeks and Parsley, which do
well when transplanted, can also be
raised easily from thinnings if one's
own seeds have failed.

Frost during the period above re-
ferred to having ranged from 8° to 12°,
is likely to have left its unwelcome
mark in many districts. Artichokes

(Globe kinds) will now show if they are
to grow or not. It will be w-ell to plant
suckers if they can be had, or sow
seed to raise plants for transplanting.
They require rich, deeply trenched,
and well-drained soil to do them well.
Asparagus may now be in full bearing,
and it is well to cut the produce sys-
tematically all over the ground, taking
large and small, which may be sized
and separated, and tied into bundles
for use. Sprinklings of salt after each
cutting will help the crop and keep
weeds in check, ^iow broad Beans,
Peas, French Beans, and Scarlet Eun-
ners at least twice during the month.
Champion of England, Ke Plus Ultra,
Yeitch's Perfection, and The Baron
are good kinds for present sowing ; so
also are Tele})hone and Telegraph :
stake forward lots. All the foregoing
do well on rich, deep land, and not
crowded. If the seed is covered with
fine ashes and leaf-mould, mixed and
mulched (when they come into bear-
ing) with manure, they will not read-
ily succumb to mildew or be burnt up
with sun. Beet may be sown at be-
ginning of month. The ground for
these roots should be free from manure,
but should not be poor and sandy, as
some affirm. Such soil gives " stringy "
produce. Early crops of Beet may
require thinning : where blanks may
have occurred, let them be planted up
well, soaking the drills in which they
are placed. Sow all kinds of Broccoli
for successions. Brussels Sprouts may
be ready for planting out : they should
be placed in drills 2 feet apart, and
as much between the plants in the
rows. Plant out Cauliflower, and
' sow more for succession. They re-
quire rich soil and early positions to
get them in quickly ; and a quantity of
plants of the same age, planted behind
a wall or hedge, will make a succession
to them : better to have lots of such
crops coming on in small successions
than large gluts, to be succeeded by a
scarcity. Plant Cabbage thickly, if
required, on very rich ground. This
crop on poor gritty soil is tough and
worthless. Carrots may be thinned
and well hoed : a young crop to draw
when small and tender may be sown
as circumstances may require. Celery
j may be often planted out for a first

242

THE GARDENER.

[May i8Si.

supply wheu ready to transplant : give
them plenty of moisture at their roots
to start with, and when growth is
started mulch over the roots with rot-
tea manure : mowings of grass may be
used sparingly. Shading may be used
to begin with. Lettuce, Turnips, llad-
iahes, Spinach, and all small salads,
may be sown between other crops
every ten days, or weekly, where such
are required ; and we think these are
the most ditheult crops to have at all
times in abundance. If ground is dry,
a deluge with water the night before
it is to be used will make it easily
worked. Lettuce may be thinned to
0 inches apart each way, and the thin-
nings planted in the shade for succes-
sion. Salsafy, Scorzonera, and Chic-
ory may now be sown. The two for-
mer may be treated as Beetroots : the
latter may be grown anywhere. Early
thinning of crops ; free, open surfaces

well hoed ; water in good soakings
when it is really wanted; and vermm
kept in check, — are matters of con-
siderable importance at this season.
Tomatoes should be hardened gradu-
ally, never stopping growth entirely,
and planted out at end of month or
early in June. Mushrooms are not so
easily kept from maggots at this sea-
son. Beds formed out in cool posi-
tions, well protected by litter or straw
mats, answer well for growing this
much-valued crop. Capsicums do well
in frames planted out, or along back
walls of pits. Ridge-Cucumbers, Vege-
table-]\[arrows, and Gherkins may be
planted onbeds of warm manure, leaves,
or other material, covered with good
soil, and protected by " protectors " or
hand-lights. Weather is often decep-
tive during May, and no risk should be
run, M. T.

|lo tires i 0 Cnrr cspontrents ,

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in the ' Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We
decline noticing any communication which is not ac3ompanied with name and
address of writer.

W. Allison. — Dendrobium Pierardi.

Beginner. — The following Masdevallias are to be recommended as the most
showy, M. Harryana, ignea, Lindeni, Tovarensis, Veitchiana, Davisii. Keep
Tovarensis at the warmest part of the house.

J. F. — We suspect the roots of your young Vines are being devoured by
wire- worms. Place a thin layer of horse-droppings on the surface, and cover
it closely over with boards : examine beneath the boards and you will
soon find the worms, if our suspicion be correct ; and if so, turn over the
boards every morning and pick up the worms. Pieces of carrot or potato
thrust into the border and examined daily is also a good way of getting rid of
them. If wire-worm is not the cause, we cannot say what is, seeing your
soil is fresh and good.

THE

GARDENER.

JUNE i88i.

FRUIT-CULTURE.

THE APPLE.

Treatment of established Trees.

HE remarks in our last chapter apply wholly to trees in
the open garden or orchard. Further on we will deal with
wall-trees. In the meantime we will confine our attention
to the treatment of the trees which we have been treating
of, after they have become established.
Orchard-trees. — The first thing that will require attention is prun-
ing. Standard trees on good deep soil require very little of it ; and,
generally speaking, the less they get of it the better. When healthy
young trees on good soil are hard cut in, the result is that almost every
bud left on the shoot is forced into growth. When trees are unduly
repressed by pruning, their vigour is expended in numerous strong
unfruitful shoots. When hedges are hard cut in, the result is a dense
thick growth ; and the same result follows in the case of fruit-trees sim-
ilarly treated. Well-kept thorn-hedges seldom produce much blossom,
while neglected hedges are generally covered with a profusion of bloom.
Well-pruTied trees behave in a way similar to a closely cut hedge, and
trees which are let alone generally blossom and fruit as freely as neg-
lected hedges. When a strong growth is cut back half-way, most of
the buds which are left grow to be shoots. When left untouclied
many of them become flower-buds, which develop ultimately into
Apples instead of twigs. The lesson to be learnt from this is to let
healthy trees, which are to be allowed full development, alone or almost
so. Still, intelligent regulation of the branches will prove beneficial.

244 THE GARDENER. [June

Some trees are very spare in habit, and if left to themselves would not
become properly furnished. When such kinds are young, they ought to
be pretty well cut back, just for the very purpose of making them push a
greater profusion of shoots. Densely habited kinds, on the other hand,
should never on any account be shortened, unless parts of the tree are
bare of shoots. Such kinds should have a branch here and another
there cut clean out altogether; and when any young shoots push from
the place where such branches are cut, they should be rubbed off as
soon as they appear. Care should always be taken to get a good
foundation of branches from the very first.

For ordinary orchard -trees globe-formed heads are best, for most
varieties assume that shape of themselves. As the trees get large, care
should be taken to keep the branches thin, so that sun and air may
have a chance to penetrate and assist fruit and wood to attain maturity.
Wood which is unmatured is generally fruitless, and mature wood can-
not be obtained unless sun and air get at every part of the trees. Some
of the freer-fruiting varieties may produce both blossoms and fruit; but
when the branches are crowded like a hedge, the fruit is sure to be in-
ferior in quality and appearance, and so of less value ; and although
the number of fruits may be larger, the weight will not be greater, but
may be the reverse. It is better, therefore, not to cut back the young
wood, unless it is necessary in order to furnish the tree with branches ;
and remember, when thinning is necessary, to do it by cutting out
the weakly branches. When two branches cross each other like an X ,
the worst-placed one should be removed, for the rubbing of the one
against the other will spoil both, to say nothing at all of the awkward
look of the thing. Branches should be as nearly parallel as possible.

Although orchard-trees may be skilfully let alone, and as skilfully
thinned when necessary, they may weary the cultivator waiting for the
" returns." Where the soil is good and deep, more especially in cool
northern localities, the trees may "go in for basket-wood ; " and when
trees grow too vigorously, the time for skilful letting alone has passed
in favour of skilful interference. After three or four years have passed,
and vigorous trees show no sign of producing fruit-buds, means should
be taken to cause their formation. This is best done by careful lifting
and replanting. Trees three or four years planted may be lifted and
transplanted during the month of October with every safety; and the re-
sult will be that the year following plenty of flower-buds will form, and
the growth be more moderate but of a better quality. If the opera-
tion is carefully done in the way we advised when speaking of plant-
ing them — all fibry roots saved and only strong ones cut back, and
all laid out horizontally, — after one year's growth they will again be
firmly established, and quite fit to make a proper growth and bear some
fruit. After this stage has been reached the trees will cause very little
trouble, for the bearing of fruit will prevent the formation of too
strong wood; and if it is not strong enough, mulchings of manure over

i88i.] FRUIT -CULTURE. 245

the roots, and one soaking of manure-water during winter, will correct
this tendency. Still, if the trees grow too strongly in after-years, root-
lifting should be practised. Wholly lifting and transplanting is not
quite safe in the case of large trees, but it is quite safe to lift one side
one year and the other side the next year. In the case of trees on a
thin soil and a bad subsoil, it is well to practise this root-lifting, especi-
ally if the bottom is damp. Trees which have sent their strongest
roots straight down into cold wet soil seldom thrive, and the fruit is
generally of a poor quality. During summer, the soil, especially when
damp, is much colder than the air ; and so the sap which is drawn up
keeps the temperature of the tree lower than it might be, which is one
of the reasons why Apples on such subsoils are poor. The upper soil,
on the other hand, is in autumn of a higher temperature than the
atmosphere ; and hence, when the sap is wholly drawn from the surface-
soil, the temperature of the tree is kept up, which is one reason why
the fruit on trees whose roots have been brought to the surface is gen-
erally fine. Another great advantage which follows root-lifting is, that
the roots can be properly fed when necessary.

A great many orchards are laid out in grass. On really good soil this
may be well enough, on inferior soil it is not. We think it far better
to keep the surface-soil free of all growth except some light vegetables.
The tree-roots should not be interfered with, but the interspaces may
and should be cropped. Between the rows Gooseberries, Currants, or
Rasps may be profitably grown for some years ; and it will be found
that on cultivated soil the trees will thin better than on grass land,
while the operations we have hinted at can be more easily and satis-
factorily performed.

Medium Trees— Management of the i?oo^5.— Although orchard- trees,
at least when on a good, deep soil, and in a favourable locality, certainly
give the greatest amount of fruit for the least possible trouble, it is
not every cottager or villa-owner who can afford space for them, or has
patience enough to wait many years until full crops are produced.
Medium-sized trees— that is, trees grafted on the Crab Apple or English
Paradise — may be grown in less space than ordinary orchard-trees : they
come earlier into bearing, and, as they are planted very much closer
together, sooner attain their full growth and yield a full crop from off
a given piece of ground. As a set-off against this, such trees, to do
them justice, require to be systematically pruned both at root and top.
On peculiarly favourable soils and in favourable localities they may be
treated on the let-alone system to a very great extent, but on ordinary
soil and in ordinary situations systematic cultivation will be required
to produce satisfactory results. We have seen such trees on a moder-
ately deep soil, on a whinstone bottom, do first-rate without anything
being done to them at all, except the occasional removal of a crowding
branch, and a little cow-urine at the root in winter. We have seen the
same kind of trees on a thin soil, with a cold, damp, clayey bottom,

246 THE GARDENER. [June

which for years did no good at all in the way of fruit-bearing, although
the annual growth was strong and healthy; and after these trees were
carefully lifted, root-pruned, and planted again with their roots placed
near the surface among open soil raised a little above the surrounding
level, and mulched with manure, they produced splendid crops for years
afterwards. The reader will understand by this that what may be proper
on one soil and in one locality, may be highly improper on another soil
and in another locality. When trees which are planted on a strong
soil of average fertility, with a dry wholesome bottom, make a fairly
good annual growth, and after three or four years begin to bear fruit
of a good quality freely, it will be wise to let the roots alone. On
such soils, especially if poor, it is just possible that fruit may be too
freely produced, at the expense of the annual growth — so much so, that
the trees make no headway. We have found that a good mulching
of manure over the roots, coupled with a soaking of manure-water
once in May, and again in June or July, had a very good effect in
producing free growth and fine fruit. An indispensable factor in
the production of good fruit and healthy growth are fibry roots near
the surface. The Paradise stock and, in a lesser but still fairly good
degree, the Crab produce good fibry roots naturally on dry stony soils,
and mulching draws them towards the surface and keeps them there.
The roots go where the sap and the food are, and it is a good thing to
keep the food and moisture at the surface. Digging in manure is not
a good way to secure this, because rank manure, when the roots can
reach it, causes the formation of strong sappy roots ; and such roots
produce strong sappy wood which is not fruitful, but the reverse.
Moreover, every drop of rain that passes through manure so placed,
carries its essence deep down, and the roots follow. Again, manure
dug in does not promote moisture at the surface in dry weather ', and
so there is nothing to attract the roots thither. Mulching, on the
other hand, promotes moisture at the surface ; and as the rain carries
the strength of the manure into the soil, the roots get the benefit of
it, just as much as if it were dug in. Practical men thoroughly under-
stand all this ; beginners seem not to do so, — at least in many in-
stances which have come under our notice. The untidy appearance is
sometimes objected to, especially when the garden adjoins the house.
An inch of fine soil placed over the mulch makes everything tidy.

On deep, damp, rich soils, such trees generally grow very strongly,
but do not fruit well. It is these trees which require the systematic
root and top pruning to which we referred. Trees on the Paradise or
Crab stock which produce a profusion of shoots a foot and a half or
two feet long, and few flower-buds, which results in puny fruit, need
root-pruning. While the trees are young this is an easy job; and on
such soils as we have just named, the roots of the trees should be
taken in hand and kept right from the first. The roots produced in
rich soils are generally anything but fibry and near the surface, but by

i8Si.] NOTES ON WINTiiR-FLOWERING PLANTS. 247

lifting and root-pruning them they may be made so. When this is done
(October is the best time for doing it), all fibry roots should be care-
fully saved, and in planting kept well up. Strong clean roots should
be well shortened in. The result of this will be a moderate fruitful
growth above and a mass of fibry roots below. When the trees begin
to fruit, the calls made on their energies will do much to keep down
the tendency to over-luxuriant growth. Below, however, the roots
will be apt to grow strongly, and so produce unfruitful growth. When
this is so, root-pruning must again be resorted to. When the trees
attain some size, however, it may be wise to lift the roots of only one
side of the tree one year, and the other the next. In the case of old,
unfruitful, neglected trees, it is best to carefully find the strong roots,
and, instead of cutting them back, lay them just under the surface.
This operation is necessary to produce healthful trees, and to keep
them healthy, on all thin soils with a bad subsoil. When the roots pene-
trate bad soil, diseased unhealthy trees are the result. Root-lifting
is a sure cure — or rather a sure preventive.

{To he continued.)

A. H., H.

NOTES Oi^ WINTER-FLOWERING PLANTS.

The present month will be gladly welcomed by all who grow plants
extensively for the production of flow^ers during winter, especially
where house and pit room are somewhat limited. In northern districts
a number of plants that will do out of doors during the summer
months cannot be placed outside until all fear of frost is over, which in
many seasons is not the case until June is well advanced. This, in the
majority of cases, occasions fruit and plant houses to be overcrowded
with plants during the spring months, — such, at least, is the case here
at present. Rhododendrons of the early-flowering type will have com-
pleted their growth if gradually pushed forward after flowering. The
batch of R. praecox that flowered first have already their buds a good
size, and later batches are comparatively well advanced. These should
be hardened off and plunged outside. This variety will bear a con-
siderable amount of hard forcing in autumn ; but its flowers some-
times open irregularly, and are colourless and soft, thus being ren-
dered useless for cutting, as they quickly droop after being severed
from the plant. No autumn forcing is needed when the growth of the
latest batches is completed this month, as the flowers naturally unfold
early in the season, and are of a fine colour and good substance,
with very lasting properties when cut. This and other early kinds,
such as R. nobleanum, do better in pots than when planted out after
flowering. When kept in pots they annually set a good quantity of
buds, and force both better and easier. This is not the only advantage,

248 THE GARDENER. [June

as Pi. pra3coxand the Ghent Azaleas, especially the Mollis varieties, are
liable, when their growth is completed early, to flower about the month
of August if the season proves hot and dry. If planted out it is difK-
cult to prevent this — that is, if the growth has been made indoors first;
but when in pots they can be placed in a northern aspect if advancing
too rapidly, and the risk of blooming prevented, besides giving them
a more complete rest. Deutzias and Prunuses will scarcely be ready
for turning out, as the wood will not yet be sufficiently matured. If
in small pots and full of roots, liberal feeding should be resorted to.
Some cultivators allow all the growths on Prunuses to remain that
start away when cut back after flowering ; but this is a mistake, as the
second growths are not so strong. Disbudding is as essential with this
plant as it is in the culture of the Peach ; and if plants are crowded with
shoots, it is not too late yet to thin them out, as they not only ripen
better, but flower more profusely. A few well-flowered shoots are pref-
erable to a host of weak badly-flowered ones. To have the shoots
thin and thoroughly ripened is the secret of doing well either P.
sinensis flore-pleno or triloba. The former strikes freely if the
young shoots are taken off with a heel, and grows much stronger and
better upon its own roots than when worked ; with the latter I have
found some difficulty in propagating from cuttings, and it appears to
do better when worked.

The varieties of Azalea indica that have been making their growth
under the shade of Vines and Peaches, should be moved to a lighter
position for a time, until the flower-buds are well formed — afterwards
gradually bringing them to cool treatment, and finally placing them
outside. I am not much of an advocate for Azaleas being placed out-
side, and yet some little advantage is to be gained by subjecting the
early batch to this treatment for a short time. A good position should
be selected, and the plants placed upon a moist bottom, or better still
if they can be plunged, to prevent the sun striking direct upon the
pots. The system of placing them by the side of garden-walks, so fre-
quently practised, proves anything but beneficial to them. The little
advantage cultivators may think they gain by so doing will not com-
pensate for the destruction of quantities of roots that are at the outside
of the ball, which cannot fail to perish when subjected to this drying
ordeal. Later batches, and those that have only just flowered, should
be pushed forward to make their growth before autumn approaches, as
they can afterwards be retarded for late flowering by being placed in
a house with a northern aspect, and the frost only excluded.

Heaths and Epacris will be in frames and now growing vigorously,
and should have all the light possible consistent with the wellbeing of
these plants, to harden their growth, with abundance of air circulat-
ing amongst them day and night. Care must be taken that they
never suffer for want of water, or they will soon present a sickly
appearance, and the foliage turn yellow, and eventually fall off.

i88i.] NOTES ON WINTER-FLOWERING PLANTS. 249

Hybrid Perpetual Roses that have flowered may now be plunged
outside in a sunny position ; while Tea varieties for autumn flowering
and early spring should still be encouraged to grow under glass, re-
moving all flowers as they appear, especially from those required first.
Zonal Pelargoniums, Solanums, Salvias, and many other such plants,
can now be got out and placed in their summer quarters. The two
latter are best planted out ; while the former should be placed upon
beds of ashes, and will only require attention in watering, feeding,
stopping, and removing the flowers and bad leaves as they appear.
Any of the young stock that may yet be rather small should be en-
couraged indoors until of a suitable size, and then be placed out to
harden and ripen the wood. Callas do best when planted out ;
and what looks more beautiful during the dreary months of winter
than a good plant with, say, twelve or more of its large spathes open at
one time ? For room decoration, where groups or large plants are em-
ployed, none can surpass for lasting and beauty the Calla when in flower.
When planted out, their culture is so simple that none need fail.
A trench should be prepared as if for planting Celery, with plenty of
manure at the bottom, and plenty at hand to work round the ball
during the operation of planting. If the stock is to be increased,
the plants can be divided and planted out at once, or they can be
allowed to grow into larger specimens. When planted, a thorough
soaking of water should be given, and liberally applied through the
summer. They will, after planting, go naturally to rest, and about
August commence throwing up immense shoots. Early in Sep-
tember they should be lifted and placed in pots suitable to the size
of the plants. They are not injured in the least by reducing the
ball considerably at lifting time, so as to place them in moderate-sized
pots. After potting, a thorough watering should be given and the
plants placed on the north side of a wall where the sun will not
strike upon them until they have commenced again to root, and
should be kept well syringed and moist at the root. The same applies
to Solanums and Salvias when lifted ; and if treated as described for
about a fortnight, they will not suffer when brought into a lighter
position.

The earliest batches of Poinsettias^ Euphorbias, Begonias, Plumbagos,
and many other plants, will have been propagated ; but later batches
should be put in at once, and again towards the end of the month.
Capital plants of Poinsettias can be produced if rooted towards the
end of July or early in August, if strong cuttings can be obtained.
Poinsettias are liable to grow very tall when propagated early and
kept in heat. They should, after this date, be gradually hardened,
and brought on under cooler treatment, which will induce a short,
jointed, sturdy growth, well furnished with leaves, and capable, if
properly treated in autumn, of producing immense floral bracts. Not
unfrequently in autumn they lose a good percentage of their leaves;

250 THE GARDENER. [June

and this is often due, when grown in cold frames during the summer,
to a check sustained by being left too long when the nights have
become cold. If starved at that season of the year the roots soon
go, and then, when placed at once in heat, off goes the foliage — which
cannot be prevented — and no future treatment will produce fine bracts.
Celosias are amongst the most useful of flowering plants for win-
ter, but are too seldom grown for that purpose. Their easiness of
culture, combined with the lasting properties of their flowers, both
when cut and for decoration, make them well worth the time or trouble
that may be devoted to them. They will stand in a conservatory, where
the temperature ranges about 45° during winter, from the end of October
until the end of January or beginning of the following month. Their
beautiful plumes of gold and scarlet stand out well above other flowers,
and in plant-houses have an imposing effect. The only drawback in
the commencement of their cultivation is the spurious strain too
frequently obtained from purchased seed. This difficulty in a season
or two can soon be overcome by selection. If " anybody's " fine strain
is obtained and sown, every plant should be grown, and the bad ones
as they show themselves thrown away, and the best only retained.
It is questionable if more than one or two really fine plumes are
produced in the lot that are worth retaining for seed : many may
be good enough for decoration, until a really fine strain is selected.
As a rule, fine strains of Celosia produce but little seed ; the better
the plume the less seed it appears to bear, — such, at least, is my ex-
perience. The seed should be sown at once in a pan and lightly
covered with fine soil, placing the pan in heat in a shady position, and
covering it with a sheet of glass until the seeds germinate. When the
seedlings are large enough, they should be pricked off into other pans to
prevent them being drawn up weakly. After they have become estab-
lished in the pan, they should be grown close to the glass; and when
sturdy little plants are produced, they should be placed into 3-inch
pots, shading for a time until growth commences. They should
then be gradually hardened and subjected to more air, taking care that
they are not checked, or their progress will be considerably im-
peded. Good plants can be grown in 6 and 8 inch pots suitable for
all decorative purposes. The soil should be light, consisting of fibry
loam, rotten manure, and leaf-mould, Avith plenty of sand to keep the
whole porous. While growing, a good supply of water should be given ;
and when the pots are full of roots, stimulants may be freely applied.
Syringing should be attended to twice daily during hot weather, to
keep the plants free of red-spider. In September they must be
moved to a house where the temperature will not fall below 50° at
night. I have invariably found the plumes to be much finer and
brighter in colour when developed in heat during their latter stages,
and then gradually hardened again for the conservatory.

Wii. Bardney.

i8Si.] NOTES. 251

NOTES.

One of the loveliest of all Orcliicls now in bloom is the deep rosy-
flowered Vanda teres — a beautiful thing truly, but with a reputation
of being shy in producing its flower -spikes. A Continental authority
some time ago suggested slitting the leaf-sheath at the nodes in order
to induce flowering. That may be one way, but not the best. Cutting
a knot is all very well sometimes, but there are cases in which it is
best to untie it. The case of this Vanda is that of the majority of
Orchids ; if it be well grown, and kept on the dry side of moistness at
the root, I find it easy enough to flower. Don't try to make a short
bushy plant of it. A good strong stem 7 feet high, trained up the roof
of our Orchid-house, is now producing two spikes, one above and the
other below last year's flowering node. Some Orchids seem to require
length of stem ere they bloom well and regularly year after year.
The Renanthera is a case in point ; and Vanda teres would be found
to bloom far more satisfactorily if length of stem was sought after
instead of a bushy habit of growth.

One of the rarest of all wind-flowers, and one of the most beautiful
also — viz.. Anemone sulphurea — has just opened its flowers, and has
been much admired. It has delicate sulphur-yellow flowers, and finely
cut hairy leaves, and is one of the most distinct and striking of all the
species. A. fulgens is a blazing beauty for a rather dry and sunny
border — its gorgeous scarlet black-eyed flowers lighting up with glow-
ing colour the whole place where it grows. Less conspicuous, but
scarcely less beautiful, is the purple form of the last named, the buds
of which are so rich as to seem lined with purple velvet : all these
should be grown by all lovers of rare and lovely hardy flowers.

Of good hardy climbing shrubs for blooming in May, there are
many more costly and far inferior to Clematis montana. Well planted
at the foot of a dead tree of low bushy habit, and allowed to take
possession of the branches, it with a little timely assistance will be-
come a thing of beauty not readily surpassed. Its white flowers are
produced in wreaths and festoons in the most lovely way. There is
a more beautiful Clematis for May blooming, but it is not so easily
obtained, or so easily satisfied with soil or climate, as C. montana, — I
allude to Clematis alpina (Atragene austriaca cserulea), which is now
(May 12) a mass of fresh green leafage, studded with hundreds of
delicate lilac-blue, four-sepalled bells, each having a soft white boss
of stamens in the centre, which lends a delicate charm to the whole
flower.

Of all Primroses, the dainty, wee, purple-flowered Bird's-eye Primrose
of the Orkney meadows, P. scotica, is to my mind just now most charm-
ing. It is easily raised from seeds sown as soon as ripe every summer,

252 THE GARDENER. [June

and a full-sized specimen looks quite at home in a tiny thumb-pot,
which should be plunged in sand or ashes to the rim, in order to pre-
vent extremes of drought. Its broad leaves are farinose below, and
barely an inch in length ; the flower - scape rises 2 or 3 inches in
height, each crowned by four or five purple flowers, with a con-
spicuous iris-like ring around the eye or tube, — hence the popular name
of Bird's-eye Primrose.

Amongst our grandmothers' favourite garden-flowers, few are more
distinct or beautiful than the Virginian Lungwort, just now bearing
its nodding clusters of delicate sky-blue bells, in a shady corner of a
moist peat-bed. In the open border its beauty fades rapidly and its
roots soon decay; but in a suitable position like that above indicated,
few plants give more satisfaction than Pulmonaria (Mertensia) virginica.

Anent that gorgeous scarlet Pau Anemone fulgens, I have just been
lucky enough to meet with a gentleman who paid some olive-skinned
peasants well to dig roots of it by the sackful from among the friable
red earth of their vine-fields. Both parties to the bargain were delighted
— the peasants with their silver coins, and my friend with his bags of
dry withered-looking roots. It is curious that any kind of Anemone
once introduced should become scarce in our gardens, since their roots
are capable of growing after the most minute subdivision ; and my
friend tells me that although the hot southern sun does much by
ripening the roots in summer and autumn, yet he believes that the
cultivation they receive unwittingly from the peasants, when scratch-
ing amongst their vines, does much also, by breaking and so propagat-
ing and distributing them into fresh soils ; hence those gorgeous
sheets of colour which are the delight of all travellers in the sunny
south early in the year.

Of all popular names given to plants popular or unpopular, I think
one of the most ghastly is that of the " Bleeding Nun," as applied to
the Canadian Blood -root (Sanguinaria canadensis). In its origi-
nal French form it is a trifle less repulsive, but, any way, it is not
pretty, or agreeably suggestive, as all good and right plant names
should and must ever be.

Some of the old Daffodils — " one flower on a stalk," as Parkinson
describes them — are beautiful enough, but we have now new races of
seedling kinds which bear several flowers on a stalk, — so that we
have now, in fact, " Polyanthus Daff'odils," as we have long had Poly-
anthus Narcissi, and so much more variety is thereby added to our
gardens. Some seedlings raised by De Graaff Brothers, of Leyden,
from seeds of N. bicolor, are very fine and bold, bearing two flowers
on a stalk, and having a very rich and agreeable perfume.

i88i.] NOTES. 253

Of all the many points connected with the now important question
of hardy flowers, the first and most urgent is their nomenclature.
The more you know of hardy flowers, the more inextricably
confusing do their names become. Old Parkinson, when writing
of Narcissus 250 years ago, lamented this question of incorrect
names. "There hath" (said he) "been great confusion among
many of our modern writers of plantes in not distinguishing the
manifold varieties, . . . for every one almost, without consid-
eration of kinde or forme, or other speciall note, giveth names to
diversify one from another, that if one shall receive from severall
places the catalogues of their names (as I have many) as they set them
down, and compare the one catalogue with the other, he shall scarce
have three names in a dozen to agree togeather, — one calling that by
one name which another calleth by another, that very few can tell
what they meane,"

As John Parkinson was two centuries and a half ago, so are all
growers of hardy flowers to-day: one can never be sure of what
is intended by the names in most catalogues, and the result is dire
confusion, loss of money, labour, energy, and sometimes temper also.
The way out of the difficulty is not short, nor easy, nor inexpensive.
We must look to the more intelligent of cultivators, and induce them
to work out reliable monographs of their special favourites, just as
Mr Elwes did the Lilies, and as Mr Maw of Brosely is now doing the
Crocus. Here is honourable labour awaiting those cultivators who
have leisure and means.

These same hardy flowers have had an exceptionally bad winter and
spring to contend with this season. Drought and frost and east winds
ruined the spring blossoms in all exposed places. Of all the sufferers
through climate, however, the mortality is greatest among half-hardy
shrubs, which are pretty generally cut down to the ground-level, and
not seldom killed outright. If we are to have winters of like severity,
Briar stocks for Ptoses are doomed to a certainty, and own-root Poses
will be in great demand.

Cattleya citrina is not a showy Orchid, but a great favourite with
ladies on account of its delicious fruity, citron-like odour. It is like
Lilium auratum, in having been imported by the thousand — and like it,
also, in blooming well for a year or two, and then dying out altogether.
A gentleman wrote the other day to ask me how he should grow it
in order to keep it permanently, and that is a question many Orchid-
growers would like to have thoroughly answered. Its period of growth
is during our winter months, and I find that it grows quite freely in a
temperature only a few degrees above freezing-point. A plant grown
in a house from which frost was barely excluded last winter, made
growths twice the size of those made in a Cattleya-house (never below

254 THE GARDENER. [June

50") the year before, and is now producing two flowers to a growth.
Of course it must be suspended head downwards, or it does not thrive
satisfactorily, and it enjoys all the light and sun our cold clime affords
during winter. Just when the flower-buds are lialf grown, it should
have a higher temperature until they expand, when it may again be
returned to a cool house. A very little peat, surfaced with sphagnum
moss, on a teak-wood raft, is the best compost.

One of the sweetest and best of white flowers for cutting during the
latter end of May or beginning of June, is undoubtedly the double-
flowered form of the poet's Narcissus. Once well established in good
deep soil, its flowers never fail. By many they are liked even better
than Gardenia flowers, to which they bear some resemblance, and
they endure for many days in water after being cut.

One of the most lovely of thoroughly hardy spring flowers is
Anemone apennina, which, during April, is most floriferous in all
soils and situations. Under trees, or on grassy banks, it is equally at
home. If you take a spade and think you have dug up every bit of
it, up it comes next year in a bigger patch than ever. It rivals Couch-
grass in its capacity for increase under spade cultivation. If it once
gets loose in a rich wood, it runs about like a child at play. It is by
some called the "Blue Marguerite,^' a somewhat pretty name for
it. Years ago it grew splendidly in a verger's garden, under the
shadow of Peterborough Cathedral, seemingly as much at home there
as if on its native Apennines. F. W. B.

THE rLOWER- GARDEN.

Old-fashioned flower-gardens will again be either filled, or all but
filled, with their summer or autumn occupants. Plants such as Geran-
iums, Lobelias, Ageratums, make the most satisfactory progress here
when planted about the beginning of June, therefore we do not hurry to
get our " bedding-out " over. Much of the lateness in getting beds
filled with flowering-plants lies at the door of putting these out too
early. In many situations it is not until the " turn of the day," at the
end of June, that real fine continuous growing weather can be looked
for. May is commonly 'a cold month, so far as nights are concerned ;
and with the exception of hardy plants, or those nearly so, we get as
near to the fine weather as possible before we plant. During the past
month much work that used to be overtaken in March and April has
had to be done. We used to get all hardy plants into their places in
these months, but had to wait till May this year, through pressure
of other work. Planting up bare places amongst shrubs cut down, or
damaged by frost, has entailed a good deal of labour, but we hope to
be amply repaid for it all. Laurustinus, Sweet- Bay, and Arbutus

i88i.] THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 255

bushes have been mostly all cut down, besides many other shrubs
more or less damaged. The spaces these have left bare have been
thickly planted up with free-flowering and showy herbaceous plants
and hardy florist-flowers. One large group of shrubs has had the
ground entirely dotted over with Phloxes; another has Sweet- Williams,
dotted with Foxgloves. One large space is planted thickly with
double Pyrethrums, dotted with Verbascum nigrum. The double red
Campion is dotted with the same plant ; London Pride with Canterbury
Bells; Doronicums with Aconituras, and other groups in the same style.
We have left room for Dahlias, Sun-flowers, and other things to be
planted this month. In the case of bulbs to flower on grass, we have
tried a plan which is hoped will be successful with these. Dotting
plants singly, or in groups of five or six, has always been a failure here.
This year we have lifted the turf over as much space as wanted to
make a group of Hyacinths, Tulips, or Narcissus, then dug and pre-
pared the ground, planted out the occupants of the several groups, and
then relaid the turf amongst them. There is nothing to compare with
spring flowers on grass for simple quiet beauty — some plants lending
themselves to it without any trouble, though others are more difficult
to get to flower yearly, and to thrive. Whilst writing this, there is a
"garden on the grass" close by, of some 15 to 20 acres in extent, the
greater portion of which is covered with Primroses in every possible
shade of colour, from white to maroon. They are absolutely count-
less in number. When they first were planted no one seems to know ;
but the first few flowers have multiplied by seedlings to an enor-
mous extent, and at the present day the result is one which only
nature could give. I have been induced to note these matters
whilst fresh in my mind, as many others may have it in their power
to do a little to beautify odd corners at this season ; but as a first
step to make a successful end, I would strongly advise the lifting
of turf, and cultivating the ground underneath before planting either
bulbs or other hardy spring-flowering plants which are herbaceous in
their habit of growth.

This is the month when herbaceous borders are at their best, and
when work multiplies rapidly in keeping them tidy and attractive.
Plants requiring stakes must have them without delay, as a thunder-
storm may, without warning, do damage impossible to repair, where
strong growing plants are unsecured. I think I have before pointed
out how many plants may be efficiently supported without employing
stakes the entire height of the various plants ; but one important
point in this plan is to have the plants staked before they have
become "straggly." Lines of Gladioli or Asters are quite securely
supported by placing a stout stake two feet out of the ground about
every third yard, to which a strong string is attached ; the spikes or
flower-stems are tied by a single tie each to the string. I do not
think as much is made out of Dahlias as might be, as they will now

256 THE GARDENER. [June

be ready for planting. Let me say that the difference a little rich com-
post makes to them, even when the ground has not been particularly
well prepared, is simply wonderful. The way to do is to mix an extra
rich compost, and place a spadeful and a half of this where each plant
is to be put ; this is mixed with the natural soil before planting.

R. P. B.

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF WALL - BORDERS IN
KITCHEN-GARDENS.

NO. VI.

In many well-managed gardens, where there is a great demand for
forced flowers especially, the wall-borders are made to play an important
part in the preparation of the plants for that purpose. Very much
depends upon this preparation. Not only will they be much improved
by being planted, or, in some cases, merely plunged, and the roots
encouraged to ramble through the pots ; but much labour, in the shape
of innumerable waterings, will be saved. In some gardens a good
piece of ground may often be seen either unoccupied after the first
crop, or else cropped with some kind of vegetable that might with
advantage be grown elsewhere ; while, at the same time, in frame
ground, numbers of Callas, Deutzias, Solanums, Capsicums, Eupa-
toriums, and other serviceable kinds of flowers, may be seen in a semi-
starved state in pots. Those who are in the habit of thus treating
their plants, I advise to try the effects of a more liberal treatment,
which I will endeavour to briefly detail, commencing with

Hoteia japonica. — A more generally useful and more easily grown
flower cannot well be mentioned. At one time it was the fashion to
purchase imported clumps ; now, however, they are being pretty generally
home-grown, and with better results. Supposing, at the present time,
we had only a dozen strong plants that had been recently flowered in
pots, we should at once prepare part of either a south or west border
for them. Should the soil be light and poor, it would be freely
manured and deeply dug ; if heavy and strong, a quantity of leaf or
other light soil would be worked in, or otherwise the plants will not
so readily establish. The same remarks apply to the preparation of
the ground for other plants. The Hoteias would be turned out of
their pots, split in halves with a plunging fork, the halves rounded off,
saving the corners, and the whole planted ; the large round patches
growing in rows about 2 feet apart and 1 foot asunder in the rows, and
the smaller pieces somewhat closer. They require to be planted
firmly, and should the soil be at all dry, be watered in, and receive
occasional waterings till established. The whole of the strong clumps,
however little fresh top-growth they may have made, may be forced
the next season ; but if allowed to remain till the second season, will
give much better results. In this case they will require to be potted

i88i.] WALL-BORDERS. 257

into 10-inch pots, the smaller clumps by that time being suitable for
6-inch pots. There is no necessity to lift the whole in the autumn,
but batches may be taken up at any time, provided the ground is not
frozen, which, of course, can be prevented with the help of litter.
The clumps when lifted may be freely disrooted, and when potted
may be forced at once.

Lily of the Valley. — Of these, again, I much prefer home-grown
clumps or single crown to those imported, and, where possible, shall
grow my own accordingly. The east border, well manured, is the most
favourable site, but I have seen good crowns taken from a north
border. The time for dividing the clumps is past ; this being best
done before growth commences. If, during the winter, I had an old
bed to break up, the crowns would be separated, the plumpest that
gave promise of flowering being either potted or packed closely in
shallow boxes, forcing them as required. The remainder would either
be planted rather thinly and irregularly in beds 4 or 5 feet wide, with
1-foot paths between to admit of hand-weeding, or, as many prefer,
especially if the preference is given to single crowns, in lines 9 inches
apart and 1 inch asunder in the rows. Many of these would flower
the next season, but it is advisable to simply mulch with rotten
manure, and allow them to remain for another year. These Lilies are
surface-rooting, and should therefore be planted shallowly and be
hand -weeded. Whenever a breadth is lifted, another should be
planted with the small crowns separated from the flowering ones.
For the earliest supply of bloom, both in the case of Lily of the
Valley and Hoteia, it is a good practice to retain a few in pots of the
strongest and least forced, watering these frequently with liquid
manure, plunging them in a warm border, and encouraging to root
through. These will mature early, and be most suitable for early
forcing.

Callas (Richardia aethiopica). — Although I am no great lover of
these, they will still be largely grown here, both for conservatory
decoration and also for cutting purposes. Few plants give better
returns for liberal treatment, seeing that strong specimens in gentle
heat continue to produce their flower-spathes from January to May.
Early in June the whole of the stock will be planted on a west border
— first, however, dividing those requiring it — single growths being
preferable. Being a moisture - loving plant, the border selected is
deeply dug and freely manured, which, under these conditions, is
made somewhat retentive. The strongest pieces are disposed 18
inches apart, in rows 24 inches asunder, and the smaller ones closer in
proportion. They will be watered during the prevalence of dry
weather, and be lifted with good balls of earth attached in September,
and kept rather close and shaded till established. Where fruit-bushes
on sheltered borders are not crowded, Callas are sometimes planted
among them with good results.

258 THE GARDENER. [June

Flowerhirf Shrubs. — In the soutliern counties, many such kinds as
Double Deutzias, Spiraeas, Dwarf Lilacs, Veronicas, Prunuses, Abuti-
lons, tfec, are frequently hardened off, cut back, and when breaking
afresh are planted on a well-prepared, sheltered border, having first
had their balls of soil considerably reduced and the roots trimmed.
In this manner the majority of the plants recruit their strength suffi-
ciently to admit of being forced the following season. Many err in
not hard -pruning these forced shrubs, forgetting that the weakly
growth that has resulted in many instances will not flower. Cut
back hard, and if the locality be warm, plant out, or if the reverse is
the case, shake out the roots, trim them, and repot into good rich
soil. When well established, plunge in the open borders, and encour-
age to root through into the soil. When plunged in pots, they will of
course require to be watered occasionally.

Berry-bearing Plants. — Although somewhat uncertain to which of
the foregoing methods to give the preference, I have no doubt as to
w^hich is most suitable for Solanum capsicastrum, and Capsicums of
sorts. The former, especially, are frequently planted out and lifted
again in the autumn, by these means securing a good set of berries ;
but I much prefer to shake out and repot when breaking afresh after
being pruned, and when well established, hardening off and plunging
at the base of a warm wall. This plan checks luxuriant growth, and
at the same time, by encouraging the roots to work out into the soil,
they are sufficiently vigorous to perfect a good crop of fruit, without
the risk of injury by lifting. In warm localities. Capsicums will ripen
well under a south wall, but if required more for ornament than use,
they are best plunged in pots. Capsicum Princess of Wales is par-
ticularly ornamental during the early winter months, and may be
grown as above advised. This variety, or, indeed, any of the Capsi-
cums, should not be pinched back at any time, and a few strong
branches on the Solanums are generally more effectively fruited than
a greater number of weaker ones.

Violets. — I am referring to these only to condemn the practice of
planting them near the roots of any valuable fruit-trees, as I know of
no more " hungry-rooted " plant. The roots spread rapidly, and fre-
quently to a very great depth, and quickly absorb all the fertilising
properties of the soil, to the obvious detriment of the only legitimate
occupants. By all means grow as many Violets as possible, especially
if there be ladies to please ; but, if possible, keep them clear of valu-
able fruit-trees. After all, a large frame full of Marie Louise will
yield as many large beautifully -scented double flowers as will be
required.

Although I have by no means exhausted the list of plants that
may be grown on south borders, what I have already written will
occupy as much space as our editor will feel justified in allowing.

W. Iggulden.

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 259

HINTS FOE, AMATEUKS.

HARDY FEUITS.

It will now be generally known what the crops of fruits are to
be. Except in the case of those which are not right at their roots,
and liable to throw off the greater portion of what have set, one may
fairly judge of the amount of thinning which will be required. This
operation should not be left in the hands of a novice, who might remove
the most promising of the crop. The finest and best-placed fruit now,
are generally the best in the end; but better to go over the trees
several times with the view of doing the safe thing. These remarks
apply more to Peaches, Pears, Plums, and Apricots on walls, than to
standards ; but with them it is better in every way when they are not
overcrowded. The distance between fruits on walls is a subject which
cultivators are undecided on. Peaches, to average all over, about
a foot apart is a safe distance ; and if such can be had year after year,
we would consider it successful growing, and wish that we could
always be content to act on this principle ; but circumstances often
compel one to crop too heavily all kinds of fruits. Nectarines may
average 8 or 9 inches apart ; but the strength and health of the trees
are a guide to practice, and when the roots are a mass of fibre, quanti-
ties of manure-water can be given with great advantage. The thin-
ning of the shoots is a matter of much importance. When a tree is so
well under command that all the wood can be removed except that which
is to bear next season, the work is made very simple. The new shoot
starting from the base of the predecessor, and one leader left to each
shoot with fruit on it, may meet all wants, except when trees have to
be extended or vacant spaces filled up. Whatever form the tree is in,
the same rule applies as to absence of crowding. With amateurs,
smaller sizes of trees are preferred — many have cordons for sake of
variety ; but on the whole we prefer moderate-sized trees — and one ob-
jection to large ones is, when accidents occur a large space is denud-
ed, and the loss is greater than when trees of moderate size are grown.
The form of training is more a matter of taste than any advantage to
fruiting or to quality. We find our few horizontally trained trees
more easily and quickly managed than other forms. Pears are as
common in this form as any other ; Plums, Peaches, Apricots, and
Cherries are not so common. One thing we would consider of much
more importance is to be able to save the trees from the mischief caused
by late frosts. We have often alluded to the destruction, more or less
every year ; and although every precaution is used as a preventive, in no
case is there absolute success. Protecting material is too often useless.
For example, during the last week in April, when we had a splendid
set of Apricots and Peaches about casting their flowers, frost from 8°
to 10'' continued the most of the week. The Apricots are severely
handled, and Peaches are shrivelled up in great numbers — probably

260 THE GARDENER. [June

enough left, but such thinning we would like to dispense with.
A friend called on us lately from Inverness-shire, and he describes his
Peaches and Nectarines as most promising, his xYpricot-trees in perfect
health, and fruit in clusters all over. This, from former information,
we were prepared to hear. What can experienced men in the south
do to help us to similar results? Former directions as to watering
young trees, and old ones too if they want it. In training the newly
planted trees, cover as much of the wall near the base of them as pos-
sible— a few extra shoots will do no harm where there is space to
place them ; stop any shoots which are robbing their fellows ; get all
growth even. Let trees which are spurred, such as Plums, Pears,
and Cherries (not Morellos), have the thumb and finger applied in due
time ; but not so close as to cause the buds at base to start, Examine
grafts and remove clay from them if they are advanced enough. War
against insects and grubs, — Gishurst's Compound, 2 oz. to the gallon,
is a remedy now much used — also fir-tree oil. Net Cherries, &c.,
from birds. Place litter between Strawberries to keep the fruit clean.
Figs may be stopped at fourth or fifth leaf ; these are too often
crowded : mulching may be used with much advantage to roots.

OPwCHAED-HOUSE.

In this structure the success or non-success of the season may
depend on one item of management — viz., watering, — that is,
if the trees are restricted at the roots by pots or otherwise. Where
there is a mass of fibre with plenty of drainage, it is difiicult to
over-water ; but not only the pots or the immediate locality of the
roots should be watered, but the whole mass of soil should be soaked,
and a colouring of manure-water at each watering to the roots is
better for the trees and fruit than stronger doses at longer intervals.
The usual stopping and thinning of shoots will be necessary ; syring-
ing to keep off insects, and at no time should the trees be allowed to
suffer a check of any kind. Shutting a house close at night, then
throwing the whole wide open at once of a morning, is a mischievous
practice : a little air should be on at night, and as the season becomes
mild the whole air may be left on. Clean open surfaces, neatly
mulched, is very desirable. Dustings of soot through the house are
helpful to the foliage.

FLO"\VER-GAEDEN.

Newly planted beds may require a good soaking of water, and
the hoe nicely used afterwards when dry enough to form a loose
surface : very little water may be wanted for some time to come.
Proceed with tender kinds as soon as they are ready. Alternan-
theras, Coleus, and others of this class, may be planted into their
various forms forthwith : thorough keeping will do the rest. Box-
edgings well trimmed ; grass close and velvety, free from weeds ;

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 261

clean weedless walks, — are some of the items which go far to make a
garden enjoyable ; but reverse this, and gardening loses its best charms.
We would therefore urge amateurs and others to be contented with
small space well done, than larger breadths in shabby condition. In
gardens of a larger class disorder is too common, and those to blame
in most cases are the proprietors themselves. Annuals for late bloom
may now be sown, and all plants of a hardy character prepared for
autumn flowering should now be out and growing. This applies to
Stocks, Asters, Marigolds, Dahlias, &c. Stake the latter early and
securely, also Hollyhocks and other tall plants. Herbaceous plants
may require much labour in the way of staking, trimming off dead or
dying flowers, hoeing and breaking the surface. Those newly planted
may require water, and give it liberally when it is done. Gladiolus
forwarded in pots may now be planted. All should have the appear-
ance of finish in the various beds and borders — whether they be shrubs,
Roses, or bedding plants. Cut out all dead branches from shrubs which
have remained after the winter's frost : give a soaking of water to
those newly planted. Mulching may be of much service to such,— ^also
to Roses ; they should have a good soaking of manure-water as they
come into flower. Take off suckers ; look out for grubs curled in the
leaf, which eat the flowers. Sow Mignonette in patches where Roses
may have died off, and plants are not at hand to fill the space. Place
all shade-loving plants behind hedges, walls, or fences : place the
pots on ashes. This applies to such as Polyanthus, Carnations, and
Auriculas.

PLANT- STEUCTUEES.

As plants come into bloom outside, and gardens become gay, all
plants inside should be of a showy or interesting character, not merely
for a glare of flowers, but handsome and graceful in form, striking
foliage, and well grown in every respect. Crowding is very objection-
able. Ferns of sorts. Palms hardy enough for greenhouse, Ficus elas-
tica, Cordylines, Dracsenas, variegated Yuccas, (fee, mixed with Coleus,
Fuchsias, Abutilons, Aralias, Oranges in fruit, and suchlike ; then
to enliven the whole, a few well-grown Azaleas (some flower as late
as July), Acacias, Summer Heaths, Liliums, Pelargoniums, Tropseo-
lums, Pimeleas, Lapagerias, Genetyllis, Fuchsias, Begonias, Kalosan-
thes, Hydrangeas, and others. But to fill the space and make a " blaze,"
one may cheaply pot on the choicest and most suitable plants left from
the bedding stock. There is no difficulty in filling a structure, espe-
cially what amateurs generally can command. Balsams, Cockscombs,
Globe Amaranthus, coming forward for flowering, should have plenty
of room, light, and air : prepare them by air and light before they are
moved to windows, vestibules, (fee. Insects must be fought against at
all points. Quassia-water syringed over plants once or twice weekly
as a preventive, may keep the enemies ofi*. As plants get past bloom

262 THE GARDENER. [June

ing, let them be potted either into same size, first reducing the balls,
or into larger if they require such. All New Holland plants require
to be secured from strong sun. The pots placed on slates, and ashes
laid round them, will help to save much watering, and be much better
for the roots. Pot on all plants for autumn flowers — Chrysanthemums,
Eupatoriums, and others. Get a good stock of Cinerarias, Calceo-
larias, Primulas, Salvias, Cyclamens, and Harrison's Musk on the way.
Take Camellias and other plants from shade or heat, gradually and
carefully, to stand outside.

STOVES.

The plants in this structure should now be in vigorous growth ; and
proper attention to watering, free drainage to the pots or beds where
plants are turned out naturally, cleanliness from insects or dirt, care-
ful ventilation (preventing cold drying winds from passing through the
house), judicious shading or potting on the plants as they require it,
are the chief wants of stove-plants between May and September.
Get collections in batches (in pits or other positions) to grow on for
winter decoration. Now is the time to get a stock in order. Among
the most useful are Poinsettias, Bouvardias, Eucharis, Epiphyllums,
Gardenias, Plumbago rosea, Calanthes, Libonias, Thyrsacanthus, Scutel-
larias. Euphorbias, and Begonias. They should have good wholesome
soil. Peat, charcoal, turfy loam, and sand, well chopped to pieces and
mixed, suit most of them ; but one can ascertain the kind of soil
wanted by examining that in which the plants are growing. If they
are doing well in such soil, the same kind may be used again fresh
and sweet. Gloxinias, Achimenes, Gesnerias, Allamandas, Anthuriums,
Rondeletias, Stephanotis, Clerodendrons, Bougainvilleas, Begonias,
Jasminum, Sambac (a continuous-flowering white gem), are among the
free-flowering stove-plants at present. Temperature may range from
65° to 70° with fire-heat, but it is hoped not much of this may now
be wanted. Shut up, after syringing, with a good sun-heat 80° to 85°
or so. A breath of air put on at top of structure at night is a natural
strengthening agent to the plants. Shade from sun ; but when there
is no bright weather, the plants are better without shade. M. T.

AURICULAS.

The flowering season of Auriculas is again past, and before it passes
out of mind, I would like to recommend the self section of Stage Auri-
culas to gardeners as decorative flowering plants of some value, both as
grown and staged in pots, and when used as cut-flowers. Any gardener
with a stock of fifty flowering plants of Lord Lome or C. J. Perry,
would have a display which would cause a sensation in most gardens.
Both kinds, and many others, are quite easy to grow— strong off-sets

i88i.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 263

giving good trusses of bloom the first year. One of the best of the
Midland growers, grows and flowers numbers in boxes; and I have no
doubt that they would do perfectly well planted out under proper
conditions, lifting the plants, and potting in autumn if wanted for
flowering in pots. It is always to be remembered that Auriculas are
quite hardy — winters like those we have experienced of late years
having no effect on them whatever; that they require water just like
other flowers ; and that small pots give better results than those of a
larger size. They make fresh roots every year ; and as the plants can-
not be said ever to make much top-growth, it will be apparent that
pots above 4 or 5 inches in diameter will be too large. A correspon-
dent writes that a collection of Auriculas entails a greater amount of
work than does one of Orchids. That depends. Orchids can be
successfully grown with as little labour as most plants, and so can
Auriculas. But people who have time can expend a vast amount of
labour on either or both. R. P. B.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

We have been lately reading a new work on Horticultural Buildings
by F. A. Fawkes, of the firm of Dennis & Co., Horticultural
Engineeers, &c., and published at the 'Journal of Horticulture'
oftice. It is a good book, containing much particular information
concerning the planning and construction of garden buildings of all
descriptions, besides much other information on subjects connected
with gardening, which it is exceedingly desirable gardeners should
learn ; and we can recommend the book to learners as the best, if not
the only one of the kind yet published. The worst fault of the book
is that there is too much of the " shop " about it. It is well got up —
pretentious, indeed ; but the numerous references to " the firm " is
certainly a blemish, because, whatever may be the excellence of any
vendor's goods, one is usually disposed to discount his own account
of the same to some extent. Mr Fawkes, too, has ideas — probably
born of his connection with the firm — that gardeners will not coincide
with. There is a suspicion, indeed, that on the subject of " art " con-
nected with horticultural erections he is just a trifle tainted with the
" Postlethwaite " school, so much and so often satirised by 'Punch'
of late. We should say Mr Fawkes was, if anything, a "blue teapot"
man. He is too practical to be quite content, like " Postlethwaite," to
breathe out an ecstatic existence while being permitted to embrace a
" blue teapot ; " but some of his " artistic " garden structures are tainted
by the "quite too — too" — overpowering — high art school. One of
Mr Fawkes's productions is an "improved summer-house" of an
emasculated type, which irresistibly reminds one of the man who fell
among savages and was robbed of his clothes, and described his

261 THE GARDENER. [June

costume as consisting of "a waistcoat, a hat, and a pair of boots."
The base of this summer-house is of stained red deal, the sides of
glass, and " tlte roof is of red tiles" This garden horror is used by
the author himself, he tells us. Apart from their ugliness, such glazed
structures are simply stew-pots in summer ; and after sitting in one
it would be almost a luxury to crawl under an inverted sugar-cask
with a hole in the top. The " usual rustic thatched summer-house "
Mr Fawkes, like all professed makers of summer-houses, condemns.
Those who have used such will, we are told, " be fully alive to its dis-
advantages." We have not heard that any discovery of this kind has
been made yet. There are a number of summer-houses, of the rustic
kind, scattered over the gardens and estate of the Duke of Buccleuch
at Drumlanrig Castle, and at other places, that it would do some horti-
cultural architects good to see. They are clean, cool, comfortable, pretty,
and attractive retreats, and perfectly in keeping with their surround-
ings. It would be an outrage on good taste to put a skeleton glass
house with a red tile roof in such situations. An " exterior view of
a conservatory," and a " panel of lead glazing," show more of Mr
Fawkes's taste as a horticultural architect, and are suggestive, in
conservatory culture, of unclean corners, dead wasps, and flies, and of
spider-webs — things which usually congregate in corners created by
the kind of glazing and decorative style there indicated. As in
conservatories of the older type, Mr Fawkes neglects (and, we think,
misunderstands) the wants and needs of the inmates of a conservatory,
compared to which the construction is an entirely subordinate affair.

The author also condemns the system of glazing in which the putty
is only used for bedding the glass, and considers it "by no means
sightly." We never knew before that top putty was an ornament,
and the rabbet, when top putty is dispensed with, does not need to be
so deep and conspicuous. The opinions of those who have tried the
plan are that it has the advantage in appearance : in other respects it
is every way the best. If Mr Fawkes had seen large houses glazed in
this way, such as some of the vineries at Clovenfords and elsewhere,
he would not have stated that it was a system only fit for Cucumber-
frames and suchlike.

There are a good many other points upon which gardeners will dis-
agree with Mr Fawkes. They would want to know, for example, how
he proposes to water a Vine-border, like figure 90, page 156, and which
is something like a lump on a camel's back. His lean-to vineries, too,
with fronts 5 feet high, including 2| feet of brick-work, are an entire
nuisance, as every gardener knows. The brick frontage is a wholly
useless part, and only adds to the cost of erection and the trouble of
raising the Vines, that is all. With the exceptions here stated, how-
ever, the book is a good and useful one.

One of the prettiest floral sights we have seen this spring was a

i88i.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 265

collection of Primroses of numerous shades of colour — all of the
common Primrose type. Some of the name kinds are very distinct
and showy, but it is probably to the seedlings raised from these that
we must look for a cheap and ready supply of these attractive spring-
flowers. The various shades of colour comprise pink, rose, maroon,
crimson, lilac, purple, violet, &c., with numerous intermediate shades.
For planting along with the common wild variety on the grass, to
succeed Snowdrops, Crocus, and other early spring flowers, these
Primroses are invaluable, and they thrive in any situation. A gentle-
man who cultivates them extensively, says, the single varieties are far
superior to the double ones, being, as a rule, more vigorous, as well as
of a freer-flowering habit. About the end of April, on the margin of
a broad lawn in a large garden, we saw a number of the coloured
Primroses growing in a semi-wild state, just at the skirts of the trees,
and a more attractive sight it would be hard to imagine. The only fault
was, they were not in sufiicient quantity. The plants, in order to be
effective, want to be scattered broadcast. Seedlings raised during the
summer will flower next year. Many of the Polyanthus are also
suitable for the same style of garden decoration, and present many
shades of colour ; and, if anything, they stand up out of the grass
better than the Primroses. As spring bedders, of course the Primrose
excels. One of the most striking and efi'ective beds we have ever seen
was an oblong bed filled wholly with Primroses of various hues — not
an inch of ground being visible, and the whole a sheet of flowers.
It was bordered with Box and a gravel walk, which did not add to the
effect ; but the same nestling in a grassy corner of the lawn would
have been attractive and natural-looking.

A correspondent writes to us saying, " The exigencies of space and
labour compel me occasionally to do things in the cheapest and easiest
way ; and as we require to grow many Carnations and Picotees, I have
begun to dispense with frames and pots for their protection in winter
— the common practice — and instead, to plant them out as soon as
they are established in autumn, when they are to flower. I have had
many out in this way all the past winter, which has been severe enough
in all conscience, and have not lost one. They are now growing very
nicely, and look well." Of course the Carnation is one of the hardiest
of hardy plants, and in some old-fashioned gardens it is quite a common
thing to see old plants of the popular red and scarlet cloves that have
survived on the same spot for years.

[We propagate thousands of Carnations every year, and have found
that in our very unfavourable climate, they stand such winters as the
three last ones best when left in the beds untouched till spring. It
often occurs that one or two beds are left to bloom without transplant-
ing the young plants, and the result is such a crop of bloom for dense-
ness as cannot be had any other way. — Ed.]

2GG THE GARDENER. [June

Dr Lindley expressed tlie opinion that if the physiological principles
on which the operations of horticulture depended were correctly appre-
ciated, the grounds of our practice would be settled upon a more satis-
factory foundation than at present can be said to exist. This is no
doubt true; but things are just now pretty much where the doctor left
them. It might be pertinently asked, " Who are the physiologists" who
teach correct " principles " 1 Are they those who merely chronicle the
changes of opinion and practice that continually occur 1 or are they
those who make the said changes and prove their utility 1 If our pro-
fessed physiologists, who deliver oracular discourses before scientific
committees and the like, understood their work, such matters as
planting, pruning, training, and potting, <fec., should have been settled
long ago upon sure foundations ; but every cultivator is left to do what-
ever seems right in his own eyes, and the physiologist is always ready
to adapt his views to the necessities of the hour ; and the general and
somewhat vague and varied practices of the practical horticulturalist
form the basis of all his theories and deliberations. The vegetable
physiologist has, and always had, far more abundant and more accom-
modating materials to work upon than the physician, but he has not
made the same use of them, and is inconveniently far behind the latter
in his profession. The doctor does know when and where to amputate
a limb, and has ascertained, with some degree of accuracy, how his
patients, under certain conditions of health and circumstances, should
be treated ; but the vegetable physiologist has to wait and learn, and
is in a gulf of doubt and uncertainty on every occasion that anything
new in practice is announced.

Mr Shirley Hibberd appears to have retreated from the field of
fruit-culture, and joined himself to the " Florists." The florists, what-
ever crotchets they may entertain, are a body of gentlemen, and will
no doubt appreciate their latest recruit as highly as he deserves. Mr
Shirley Hibberd has lately read a paper on the Tulip, giving us details
from the older catalogues, and no doubt considers he has obtained his
degree, and hence the characteristic manifesto which appeared in the
' Gardeners' Magazine' lately, on the subjects of florists and their fa-
vourites. There are a great number of worthy people who do not
believe in the creed of the florist in its entirety ; and Mr Hibberd, who
has always been great in the " parts of speech," in his new-born en-
thusiasm applies to those people who think differently from him on the
subject, the following euphonious terms in about the space of a column
or so : superficial, shallow, flippant, low-bred, ignorant, floss-brained,
sour, nasty, and mean. If this does not crush " those who write "
against the florists' ideas, they must be credited with belonging to the
pachydermatous order of writers, and invulnerable. But we are curious
to know what the florists themselves think of their champion.

It is but a short while since that a lecture was delivered on pruning

i88r.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 267

and training fruit-trees, in which the lecturer, adopting the suggestions
of previous writers and practitioners, advocated what is now called the
extension system in its most extreme form. At that time, the ' Gar-
deners' Chronicle' took up the subject in one of its leading articles.
It lamented that the lecturer had not deemed the Royal Horticultural
Society *'a fitting place for such a disputation." It wanted, it said,
"a professor of the art of pruning" there, who was glib of speech and
dexterous with the knife, " to show how it was done.'' Your contem-
porary adopted the lecturer's views then, and declared that ^' it required
no great amount of persjncacity to see" that the advocate of no pruning
was "/;er/ec^/?/ right, however much his assertions might go against the
grain of some folks ; " and it demanded to know " how we should
prune, or rather if we should prune at all.'' Answering this question
itself, it asserted that " under a healthy state of things we ought never
to prune at all, whether for timber or for fruit ;'' and it cautioned gar-
deners to follow the example of the surgeon, and " avoid the use of the
knife" — to learn to look "with reverence on the tissues they could
destroy, but not replace ; " and upon the whole, to regard pruning in
general as a very bad thing. It deprecated "ignorant clamour," and
ended by " laying it down as a principle, and having reference solely to
the life and vigour of the plant, that all pruning was mischievous^

The article in the ' Chronicle ' containing these statements will be
fresh in the minds of readers ; for it is but yesterday, one might say,
that they were written, and nothing has happened in the interval to
change its opinions on the subject, but rather the reverse.

But turn we now to a leading article of the same type, in the same
paper, and on the same subject, in its issue of May 7th : —

" Every one admits that pruning is more or less an unnatural process,
though it is by no means wholly so, for Nature does a good deal in that way
herself. Every one admits that a great deal of unintelligent, unnecessary,
and, worse still, mischievous pruning is done. But because this is so, it by
no means follows that all pruning is bad. ... In most cases, and
especially in small private gardens, we want the tree to conform to our require-
ments and the exigencies of time and space. TFe secure this, amongst other
things, by judicious pruning. It may well be that in the long-run the trees suffer in
some way by this mutilation — but if it be to, it has to be proven, and in any case this
can be provided against ; there are more behind, and, tinder the circumstances, the
advantages more than compensate for the disadvantages.'" (The italics are ours.)

What is any one to think who began by following the advice given
in the first article when he reads the last ? If your contemporary
forgets what it says and does, its readers have better memories. In
its former article, it declared that it was " clear from the teachings of
science that the practical rule to be laid down in all cases is not to
prune more than is strictly necessary ; " and how much it considered
" necessary," may be gathered from its other admissions recorded above.

Reader.

208 THE GARDENER. [June

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

LAPAGEEIA ROSEA AND L. ALBA.

The above are two of the most beautiful and striking flowering green-
house climbers in cultivation. The sprays of flowers are lovely objects
for hanging over the edges of vases filled with cut-flowers ; and both
of them, if trained on balloons and well flowered, are two of the very
choicest of exhibition plants : indeed it would be difiicult to conceive
of a more beautiful and telling plant for this purpose than the white
variety. They are both natives of Chili, and thrive well in an ordinary
greenhouse after they are fairly established ; but until then they are
all the better of being kept rather close, and in a temperature that
does not fall below 50° at night during winter. After they are well
established, they will stand it a little lower without suffering any
damage. They are grand plants for training up rafters ; and in this
position, where they are always exposed to the full light, it will be
found that they flower much more freely.

The Lapageria is propagated by seed and layering the shoots, and
sometimes by cuttings. The wood, however, is so hard and wiry that
they do not root very readily as cuttings, so that this method of pro-
pagation is not often resorted to. The soil which suits them best is
turfy loam and fibry peat in equal proportions, with plenty of sharp
sand, and some lumps of sandstone or charcoal incorporated with it.
The soil should be used in a roughish condition, according to the size of
pot, and the drainage should be perfect, as they are strong feeders, and
in the height of their growing season delight in abundance of water,
which should have a free exit, else the soil will become soured, and
in consequence the plants will fall into weak health. An occasional
watering with liquid manure may be given when they are in vigorous
growth, and the syringe may be applied at times, so as to keep the
foliage clean and healthy. They keep blooming continuously for a
long time, and no collection of plants, however select, should be with-
out one or both of them. The price at which the white variety has
hitherto been sold has prevented it from having been introduced into
many places where it doubtless would have been, so that it has only
been some of the more enthusiastic lovers of plants who have ven-
tured to become the purchasers of it. It is now becoming much
cheaper, however, and more within the range of moderate purses, so
that we may soon hope to see it in every collection of greenhouse
plants.

THE CLIANTHUS (pAKROT'S-BEAK, OR GLORY -PEA OF AUSTRALIA).

The Clianthus is one of the most showy and most suitable plants for
training up the rafter or for covering the back wall of the conserva-

i88t.] decorative GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 2G9

tory — especially if planted out in a suitably prepared border. The
flowers, which hang down in drooping racemes, are seen to much better
advantage when trained up a rafter. They are naturally of straggling
habit, and more suitable for training up the roof than for pot-culture :
still, with due care and attention, very good x^lants can be grown in
pots, and when well done makes a very good exhibition plant. There
are three varieties of Clianthus in general cultivation — Clianthus Dam-
pieri, C. magnificum, and C. puniceum. By far the most showy of the
three is C. Dampieri— in fact it is one of the most gorgeous of our cool
greenhouse plants. The flowers are of a bright orange-scarlet, with a
large black blotch in the centre of each flower. It is generally con-
sidered a very difiicult plant to grow well ; indeed it is but very rarely
seen in flower at all, being very much subject to the attacks of red-
spider, and liable to damp oif suddenly in its earlier stages of growth.
C. magnificum is almost hardy, and in many places would do very well
trained against a south wall, provided a little protection was given it
during winter. In many parts of Ireland it stands without any pro-
tection whatever ; and we have seen plants of it against a wall with
stems as thick as a man's arm, and they flowered most profusely every
year.

The soil best adapted for the cultivation of the Clianthus consists of
good fibry loam and peat in equal parts, with a goodish sprinkling of
silver sand. The pots should be well drained, as they require plenty of
water when growing, and the syringe should be applied pretty frequently
to keep red-spider in check ; but the best antidote for spider is to keep
the plants in vigorous health. The Clianthus roots readily from cuttings,
which should be of the half-ripened wood, and put in under a bell-
glass, and the pot plunged in a mild bottom-heat. The young plants
should be grown on as quickly as possible— especially in the case of C
Dampieri. After they are established in their pots, a cool pit or frame
will suit them well. They should be kept moderately close, and slightly
shaded from bright sunshine, and syringed every evening during the
summer. The aim should be to get the foundation of good plants made
during the first year, rather than the production of flowers ; they should
therefore be pinched frequently in order to induce them to break into
many shoots. They may be wintered in a house or pit where the tem-
perature ranges about 45°, and the amount of water given during the
winter should not be in excess of the demand for it. After growth
begins in the spring, they may be shifted into larger pots, or planted
out if intended for that mode of culture. In forming the bed, care
should be taken to secure good drainage, and the soil should be used
in a rough state : some charcoal may be added, which will help to keep
the soil sweet. Their season of flowering is from the end of May
onwards, and they are certain to be very much admired when in
flower.

J. a, w.

270 THE GARDENER. [June

DENDROBIUM NOBILE.

We propose giving tlie details of our mode of cultivating this beautiful
Orchid, for we have been singularly successful in its cultivation ; and as
it is very seldom seen in robust health, or producing the quality or the
quantity of flowers of which it is capable, we think we cannot do better
than tell everything we know connected with the cultivation of this
much-written-about, much-appreciated Dendrobium.

To give minute details on the subjects taken up by nearly all
horticultural writers, is such a rare thing, that we feel we ought
to apologise for so doing in this particular instance. And yet those
papers which do so are of most value. We expect to find principles
and general directions only in such volumes as those written by B. S.
Williams, F. W. Burbidge, and many others ; for it is impossible to
describe every particular in octavo volumes of two or three hundred
pages : and indeed such would be out of place. In weekly or monthly
magazines we expect more ; and those who write for such, and
yet fail to give more, merely repeat what has been often better said
before. Why this should be, we do not understand. Possibly some
writers think details below them, or, understanding what they write
about themselves, think that all small matters ought to be known by
their readers — although only the vaguest hints are given, and these
often by no means plainly put.

The plagiarism of horticultural writers is being continually talked
about ; but the evil does not abate. Few, indeed, imagine themselves
plagiarists, even when recasting what has been recast and re-repeated
hundreds of times for a generation or two. Surely there is enough
original experience to fill all our papers, if only writers would conde-
scend to tell us the little almost-nothings which yet make up the sum-
total of our everyday practice. We are told that drops make the
ocean, and grains of sand the mountain : just so in the case of horti-
cultural practice. Those who succeed attend to every little, and it is
by neglecting the littles that others fail. Those who essay to teach
should tell us all about the little steps, slips, jumps, by which they
have climbed the mountain called Difficulty. The ordinary readers
who get their horticultural knowledge from books and papers, too
frequently attempt success by bounding from stage to stage, instead
of feeling their way step by step.

We hope the above will be taken partly as a broad hint to gardening
scribes, partly as an apology for details which may to adepts seem
whimsical and superfluous.

But to return to our subject. When flowers are wanted from plants
of Dendrobium nobile at once, or within a year, flowering-plants must
be secured for commencing with. If telling success be the aim of the
cultivator, healthy, one-year-old, just-as-they-are-going-to-start, young
growths from off the base of old ones are to be preferred ; at least we

i88i.] DENDROBIUM NOBILE. 271

prefer these — and we have tried two or three ways of getting up a stock
rapidly. If anybody knows a better way, they may be sure one culti-
vator, at least, will be glad to hear of it.

However, having mentioned flowering-plants first, we will say some-
thing on how to treat these best. When they are grown in an ordinary
stove or house of similar temperature, they will be pushing new shoots
and new roots by the beginning or middle of February. At this stage
they should be repotted. The first thing to do is to carefully pull off
any young stems which may be growing near the tops of old ones, and
to pot them off on their own account in the manner to be afterwards
described. Do not begin these operations until growth is apparent —
although orthodox growers all advise this course. From John Bull to
John Chinaman the nightmare of orthodoxy hangs about the necks of
men like a millstone, and encumbers their progress like a Sindbad!
The orthodox time of potting Dendrobium nobile certainly stands in
the way of success. The orthodox mixture of moss, peat, crock, char-
coal, and sand, is another hindrance — inherited, like other evils, from
our fathers. They first potted the plant in ordinary soil ; that rotted
the roots and killed the plant. Some thinking person broke away from
this and used the above mixture with a good deal of success. We ask
you to discard this practice also, and to use only living sphagnum moss
and charcoal. You may object that there is no nourishment in either of
these articles. Never mind ; they are better alone than with any other
substance added or substituted.

In potting, turn the plants out of the pots carefully, so that neither
root nor pushing growth be injured. Carefully pick away every particle
of the old potting material, and cut away all decaying roots. Wash the
remainder until perfectly clean in the water-tank, and then lay them
aside, — they are ready for potting. Pot them into clean, dry pots, of a
size that will just allow the roots to be comfortably accommodated.
(Pots large enough to hold a quantity of material which is never taken
possession of by the roots, is an unmitigated evil in Orchid cultivation.
They do far better when the roots are crowded — not too much — in the
pots). Fill the pots just about half full of fresh charcoal ; put a thin
layer of fresh sphagnum on the charcoal, and then distribute the roots
carefully and evenly in the pot ; afterwards work in an equal quantity of
sphagnum and charcoal among the roots, and make it moderately firm.
Some Orchids require firm potting, others are better loosely potted :
this one thrives best in a compost moderately firm. It is a good plan,
especially for careless waterers, to have the base of the plants a good
deal higher than the rim of the pot ; and we also advise pieces of char-
coal to be placed underneath the bases of the bulbs. Over all a layer
of fresh groiuing sphagnum should be placed ; but care should be taken
not to put it over the base of the bulbs, for that will cause them to break
half an inch or so up the stems ; and growths which do not start from
the very base are not worth having.

272 THE GARDENER. [June

After the plants are nicely potted tliey must be put into tlie stove,
although a vinery — especially where Muscats are grown — will suit
them. A warm moist atmosphere they must have while growing.
At first the material must be kept only moist and no more ; and a
thorough watering once a-week in a moist house will be sufficient to
secure this. To keep the surface-moss fresh, and to encourage it to
grow, a slight damping with the syringe once a-day will be necessary ;
and growing moss is of some importance, for if it dies and gets covered
with slimy matter, the roots as they descend from the base of the bulbs,
instead of penetrating it liealthily, will rot and die, and your bulbs will
be weak and annually weaker, instead of strong and annually stronger.

All through the summer the plants should have stove-heat, and be
shaded during the hottest part of the day, until their bulbs are nearly
made up. They should then be removed to a warm place — such as a
Melon or Cucumber pit — and treated to a dry, airy, warm atmosphere,
and be exposed to the full blaze of the sun. At this stage, just as
much water as will prevent their shrivelling, and not a drop more,
should be given. They ought to go days and days without a drop.
Six or eight weeks of this treatment will turn the bulbs hard and
amber-coloured, and the plants will go to rest. They should have a
couple of months' rest, in a temperature not much under 50° nor over
55°. When wanted to flower they should be treated to stove-heat.
By forwarding the plants a little each year, a batch may be timed to
flower at Christmas ; and by retarding others they may be had all
through the early months of the year. We have seen them as late as
June, but in this case they are so late in making their annual growth
that it cannot be ripened properly for want of sun — at least north
here ; and consequently they do not flower well the following year.
When a young stock is being continually raised, only worn-out plants
should be kept for very late work, and then, when flowering is over,
thrown away. Thrip (yellow), red-spider, and mealy-bug all thrive
on Dendrobium nobile. The two former are easily kept down by the
syringe. The last needs picking out with a sharp-pointed stick.

And now for the best way of getting into a stock. It requires a
few years of patient good treatment, but the results will justify the
waiting and the work. We have said what beginnings are best.
Given one, or one hundred, — it is all the same — year old stems, of the
length of one's finger and upwards, such as we described before,
they should be cut carefully from the parent stems so as to injure
neither. Take care of the whorl of roots at the base. When the buds
at the base begin to push and the roots to grow, pot them up singly
into 3-inch pots, among a compost of roughly bruised fresh charcoal
and the freshest sphagnum procurable. One crock over the hole in the
pot will be sufficient for drainage — the whole material will be open
enough for drainage, for it will speedily become one mass of roots.
"Half-and-half " is the proportion to employ of each. Into this the

i88i.] NOTES ON THE VINE. 273

shoots are not to be embedded, but the plants sliould ratlier stand on
" tiptoe " on their own roots. The base of the young bulbs should
just touch the moss — which should be kept slightly moist and growing,
and no more. Kept in stove-heat and carefully treated, these plants
will soon fill their pots with roots, when they should be treated to pots
one size larger.

Instead of ripening off these small plants in the way advised for
flowering-plants, they must be retained in the stove, or East Indian
Orchid house, where such exists, and kept growing. Treated thus,
they will make from two to three growths a year instead of one, and
will double their number of breaks every time. Continual growing,
and continual shifting on as this becomes necessary for four years,
should produce plants a yard across, from 2 to 3 feet high, and with
from twenty to thirty leading bulbs.

Such treatment produces rude health and rank growth but no
flowers ; and some little skill may be necessary to throw them into a
flowering state, for when in this robust condition they are generally
breaking at the base before the preceding bulbs are half grown. This
habit has got to be changed. To do this, water should be sparingly
given long before the growths are completed. Even with this stint-
ing they will break again at the end of summer, and if these new
breaks are allowed to grow, your purpose will be frustrated. Allow
them to grow 6 inches, and then imich them. At the same time ripen
the bulbs off in the way before mentioned. In spring you will find
that the pinched stumps will break grandly, and the plants produce
such a crop of flowers, on two or three sets of bulbs, as will be a
reward for time and labour.

The time at which the flowers are wanted must regulate the time
when they are to be removed from the place where they are resting to
a warm house ; but this plant is very patient in this matter, and a few
weeks longer or shorter of a rest will not harm it much. However,
after it has once begun to grow, it must have a continuous growing
temperature until its bulbs are again made up. While in flower the
plants may be put into a house considerably cooler than a stove, but
it is not wise to subject them to greenhouse treatment. A. H., H.

NOTES ON THE VINE.

In some cases Vines are cultivated in winter, in many instances in
spring, but it is in summer when the great majority, especially of small
growers, prefer to cultivate them ; and no doubt they are right in
selection of season, as Vine-culture in summer is an easy matter com-
pared with winter and early spring culture ; but at certain times in
summer the requirements of the Vine are varied and numerous, and
according to the manner these are attended to so will the results be.

274 THE GARDENER. [June

The value of natural aid in Vine-culture cannot be overestimated, as
abundance of light and plenty of sun -heat are the most important
agents to insure the perfect development and thorough maturation of
branch and fruit alike ; but artificial assistance must also be given by
feeding at the root, training the branches, and helping nature in other
ways.

I am sure all your readers will agree with me that there is no fruit
more pleasing to cultivate than the Vine, and there is nothing more
gratifying than securing a fine crop of well-finished Grapes. Our greatest
gardeners are delighted with this ; and amateurs have more reason to
feel satisfied, as a well-managed vinery in the hands of one of these is
no mean accomplishment. At times we meet with such, and in other
instances the Vines and fruit may be seen suffering from lack of proper
attention — not that their owners do not wish to give them this, but
they do not know how. It is in aid of such growers that I send
you these few notes ; and at the present time words cannot be di-
rected to more important operations than watering the roots, train-
ing the shoots, and thinning the fruit. When the borders are properly
drained, no one need ever be afraid of giving Vines too much water at
the root during the time they are in most active growth. I do not
think any one could point out a case where Vines were injured,
either temporarily or permanently, through overwatering at the root ;
but cases innumerable might be found where Vines have been much
crippled through want of sufficient water. Surface-dribblings are evils
to be rigidly avoided in all watering operations, but in the Vine more
than anything, as the roots are sometimes a little distance from the
surface ; and when these are starved for want of sufiicient moisture, the
few feeders on the surface will not sustain the Vine in a vigorous con-
dition. It is well known that all plants which grow quickly must have
an unlimited supply of water at the root, and few plants grow at the rate
of the Vine. We have known shoots extend 3 or 4 inches on a sunny
day. At such times watering the border once every eight or ten days is
not too often, and it must be given then with unstinting hand. For
old Vines, manure-water each time is of the greatest benefit, and
nothing is better than guano : an allowance of about 2 oz. to every
square yard at each watering is a fair dose. In sloping borders care
should be taken that the surface is rough and open, for if fine and
smooth, the water may run off without penetrating more than a couple
of inches below the surface. Inattention to this simple precaution has
frequently done much harm.

In attending to the shoots, two extremes are often followed : one is
to leave the young growths much too close together; the other is to re-
strict the shoots to a much greater extent than is good for the wellbeing
of the Vine, or the perfect colouring and swelling of the fruit. As a
rule, one shoot from each spur is quite sufficient ; but it is no rare oc-
currence to see several all starting from the same spur, and the conse-

i88i.] NOTES ON THE VINE. 275

qiience is, that every one of them is weak in growth, and the Grapes
deficient in size of bunch ; and so long as this practice is continued,
the Vines become weaker year after year, until they cannot be consid-
ered to be in a satisfactory state. Of course, when the spurs are far
apart, two or three shoots may be taken from each, but they should be
trained in opposite directions, and not crowded closely together, as is
the case with those we have just been objecting to. Stopping each
shoot two joints beyond the bunch is advice often given, but we are
being convinced that in practice this is oftener wrong than right,
especially if the stopping is persisted in after the first time. Vines
which are the least inclined to degenerate will never improve under
this system, but they will go back annually. On the other hand, sickly
Vines may be vastly increased in health and vigour if they are allowed
to make an extra proportion of wood and leaves. We would rather
have them with two feet than one foot of wood beyond each bunch.

Vine -wood closely stopped appears to ripen much earlier at the
base than when allowed to run out. We have seen shoots under
such circumstances begin to have a brownish hue before the berries
were thinned, and in their case the fruit always ripened before the
berries were of any great size. With plenty of growth this does not
occur so prematurely ; and as to colour, I am of opinion that all Grapes
except Muscats will finish much more perfectly under rather a dense
shade than under the influence of more light. It is surprising the deep
colour and rich bloom Hamburgs and others will assume when the
rays of the sun are prevented by the leaves from ever reaching them.
Some growers never stop their lateral growths after the fruit begins
to colour, but we leave them alone a considerable time before this ;
and should they become such a mass as to interfere with the ripening
of the wood in autumn, a few of these can be removed then without
injury; and allowing the shoots a good deal of latitude has not the
same disadvantages as allowing a crowd of stems to grow from each
spur. At the present time Vine - shoots require stopping in every
vinery, and the operation is one of no little importance. Thinning
the fruit is another seasonable subject which must be attended to before
it is too late. Many rules are given as to the number of bunches to
leave on each rod, but all such may be right in one case and wrong in
ten. This all depends on the size of the bunches and the condition of
the Vines ; and the manner the crop finished last and former years, if
taken carefully into consideration, will offer safer guidance than any
which an outsider could give as a rule. In thinning the berries from
the bunches, no mistake can be made, provided this is not overdone
at first; and this will hardly be the case if half the berries are clipped
out soon after they are well set, finally thinning them when
about the size of Peas. All thinning later than this stage should be
avoided, as the bloom forms on Grapes from the very first ; and those
who wish to have it untarnished should bear this in mind. By a little

T

276 THK C.ARDKXER. [June

experience any one can readily tell which berries will swell large and
wliicli remain small ; and of course, as all desire evenly swelled
bunches, the latter will be removed and the former left. As insects
generally increase with the hot weather, the utmost care should now be
taken that Vines do not get overrun with any kind of pest. Preven-
tion is always better than cure in this. In fact, the first is easy, but
the last most difficult to accomplish, as a rule. To begin and syringe
Vines with insecticide stuffs when the fruit is advanced in growth is
generally to blemish its appearance; but by keeping an eye daily on the
foliage, and sponging off all insects on their very first appearance, damage
to the wood, leaves, or fruit, may certainly be averted. J. MuiR.

" CONSIDER THE LILIES."

Your correspondent " F. W. B.," p. 145, indulges in a grim joke on the
price of Lily bulbs, possibly deriving his inspiration from the well-
known but misleading advertisement which has appeared in the col-
umns of a horticultural journal ever since its first published number,
and will appear, so we are informed, unaltered till the last number of
that journal is issued, which, judging from its present success, will not
be till the end of time.

But lest your readers should fail to see the joke and be deceived by
the statements of " F. W. B.," permit me to state that good bulbs of
the Lilies be mentions — viz., Xeilgherriense, Wallichianum, Polyphyl-
lum — may be obtained from the New Plant and Bulb Company, Colches-
ter (and I doubt not from many other firms), at the low price of 5s.
each, and 10s. 6d. for the best bulbs. When, therefore, " F. W. B."
indulges in such tall talk as 36 to 50 guineas a dozen, he is simply
drawing a very long bow. Lilies may be " considered " at a much
more reasonable rate. Alexander Wallace.

Colchester, April 20, 1881.

N.B. — The three above-nampd Lilies are abotit the rarest and most highly
priced of all. A fairly good representative collection may be obtained in the
autumn for three guineas, well wf»ithy of " consideration."

SUGGESTIONS FOR YOUNG GARDENERS.

There seems to me to be one point in the successful management of
gardens too much overlooked in gardening literature generally — that is,
the important part which young men play in large or moderate-sized
gardens, where there is necessarily so much committed to their care.
However well-appointed a garden may be, it is almost impossible that
it can be successfully managed without every detail — which it is im-

i88i.] SUGGESTIONS FOR YOUNG GARDENERS. 277

possible to supervise — is assidously carried out by the young men to
whose care, intelligence, and abilities so much must be intrusted.
Therefore it may not be out of place in this paper to give a few words
of advice to young men. I am but a young gardener myself, but I
have seen and experienced the influence which young men have upon
a garden, the gardener, and even their employer. Work done and
plants cultivated, or rather uncultivated, in a slovenly, half-hearted,
or unintelligent manner, has a bad influence on the proprietor, who, if
he does not get disgusted with his garden, at least will become indifi'er-
ent to it, and the consequent discouraging circumstances will follow.
Whereas work well done, and plants cultivated in a creditable manner,
will add to your own and your employer's highest enjoyment and
pleasure, and will exercise an influence on the latter in fostering
a love of gardening, thereby advancing your own interests, your
master's, and that of your profession. We must not be afraid of hard
work. There is nothing great attained without a lot of hard work,
bodily or mental ; and never perhaps was this more necessary than
at the present day, when employers seem to look more and more on
gardening from a commercial point of view, and want good value for
their money. But you will not think work hard if you throw your
whole heart and mind into it : in time you will certainly be amply
rewarded for well-directed labour by the gratification of seeing every-
thing prospering under your charge, and by the approval of your
master, independent of any pecuniary advantages which may follow.
I must say that the remuneration paid to gardeners is small indeed,
compared with other occupations, for the amount of skill required.
But we must feel that we have a higher duty to perform than the
mere accumulation of wealth, which is certainly not to be disregarded
by all honourable means. Gather all information you can from books,
periodicals, or whatever source you can, bearing on your profes-
sion, and compare it with your own observations and experience ; but
without observation and practice reading is of comparatively little
value — you will be but a blind imitator. I would impress upon you,
above all, to observe and study the laws and operations of nature
closely, and the conditions under which plants arrive at the greatest
perfection. Nature is the greatest teacher and the surest guide. With
your principles of gardening based upon nature, you will be on solid
ground, and you certainly will not be disappointed — it will enable you
to avoid many an error. There is another important point I would
press upon you, not to be in too great a hurry to become head-gar-
deners until you feel yrurseh^es masters of your profession, as I ?m
convinced that there is an amount of valuable knowledge which
can only be gained by practice at the potting-bench and in the gen-
eral routine of gardening, and which is indispensable in guiding
others under you. Conform to your present circumstances and make
the best use of them, and endeavour to improve them, remembering

278 THE GARDENER. [June

that a man can often make circumstances for himself. We may often
feel that our capacity is not great, but let us endeavour to improve
our opportunities, tliat we may thereby act our part well in the great
programme of life. C. M.

THE GARDENJERS' BENEVOLENT INSTITUTION.

The Managing Committee of this excellent Institution have resolved to
make an effort to raise the pensioners' allowances from ,£16 and £12 to
£20 and <£16 ])er annum to male and female pensioners respectively.
To enable the Committee to attain this desirable end, they purpose
carrying out a scheme proposed by the secretary, Mr Cutler, of appeal-
ing to the gardeners of Great Britain, and recommending that a simul-
taneous collection be made in every garden in the kingdom on Satur-
day the 30th of July next. To alleviate the privations of aged and
indigent gardeners and their widows, who have either from old age or
misfortune been reduced to poverty, is surely a laudable object, and we
wish the proposed scheme every success.

HORIZONTAIiliY TRAINED PEACH-TREES.

If "J. S." will pay a visit to Rangemore, the seat of M. T. Bass, Esq.,
near Burton-on-Trent, I have no doubt Mr Bennett will have great
pleasure in showing him horizontally trained Peach-trees above four-
teen years old which will please him ; and by the time he has gone
through the Peach ranges and seen several trees of various ages trained
on the same system, all laden with fruit and clothed with spurs, and
bearing wood from main stem to tip of branch, the opinion which
he formed of the system when visiting the French gardens may be
changed a little. I have visited Rangemore Gardens annually for nine
seasons, and I have always found the trees mentioned carrying a full
crop of fruit. Like " J. S.," I was prejudiced against the system, hav-
ing seen it tried by a good gardener for a few seasons, and then discon-
tinued because it did not answer. Now I am convinced it was through
mismanagement. R. Prince.

CCELOGYNE CRISTATA.

On the 11th May, we received from Mr Speed, of Chatsworth
Gardens, a fine example of this Orchid, which is known as the
Trentham variety, the chief and valuable characteristic of which is,
that it blooms fully two months later than other forms of this
Coelogyne, and so prolongs the blooming season of one of our most
useful and beautiful Orchids. This variety has been in commerce for
some time.

i88i.] DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. 279

DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The ordinary montlily meeting of this Association was held in the
Templar Hall, Reform Street, on Friday evening, the 6th ult. — the
President, Mr D. Doig, Rossie Priory, in the chair. There was a full
attendance of members. Mr J. D. Ker, Douglasfield, read an interest-
ing and exhaustive paper on " The Culture of the Stage Auricula."
He said the Auricula stood pre-eminently a working-man's flower, — it
required little room to grow an even extensive collection. As many
as from two to three hundred could be cultivated with success in a
garden of but a few square yards — the only requirements necessary
being a good dry frame and a little careful attention on the part of the
cultivator. Unlike many other flowers, the Auricula, provided it got a
fair amount of light and air, would thrive and bloom to perfection in
almost any atmosphere. Having described the sub-classes of the Stage
Auricula, Mr Ker said there were now practically two distinct races —
the Alpine Auricula, in which the centre part of the flower was more
or less green ; and the Stage Auricula, in which the centres were always
white. Some of the rarer sorts were very dijfficult to propagate, as
shown by the fact that some varieties which, fifty years ago, could be
bought for from 10s. to 15s., were not now procurable for double and
sometimes triple that sum. This did not result from the delicate nature
of the constitution of the plant, but because they were very shy in giv-
ing off lateral buds or branches. Mr Ker's remarks were illustrated
by a selection of choice plants of Auricula in splendid bloom, thereby
corroborating all he had said as to their culture.

Mr John Stewart, Arbroath, then read an instructive paper — illus-
trated by drawings — on the " Relations of Bees to Flowers." In the
course of his remarks he said : " Orchard and garden fruit growers are
almost entirely dependent on bees to fertilise the blossoms so as to
' set ' the fruit. The stigmas of Strawberries, Blackberries, Apples,
Pears, &c., come to maturity long before their anthers, hence bees are
necessary to convey the pollen from the old to the young bloom. In
Gooseberries the anthers are ripe long before the stigmas, so that self-
fertilisation is impossible ; and unless there are bees to transfer the
pollen from the young to the old bloom, the ovary always withers and
drops off along with the flower. The showy colour and sweet scent of
flowers attract bees. The variegated lines and spots guide them to
where the honey is situated. At the same time, when the visits of
insects are to benefit the flower the honey flows more freely. Thus
bees get their supply of food, and for this treat they fertilise the
flower. Bees, therefore, depend on flowers for their subsistence. In
return, the very existence of many flowers depends on bees." In
addition to the Auriculas exhibited by Mr Ker, a large branch of the
inflorescence of a splendid double rose-coloured Cineraria was exhibited
by Mr Joseph Robertson, gardener, Bayfield, West Ferry. Messrs

ISO

THE GARDENER.

[June

Laird & Sinclair also sent a neat tray of spring flowers from their
Monifieth Nurseries, amongst which were the two very fine Narcissi,
" Emperor" and "Empress," the two best varieties of this interesting
genus ; several very })retty Primulas, including P. ciliata purpurea,
P. denticulata, P. margin ata, and the com})arutively new P. platy-
petala, the blue-flowered Arobus cyan us, the interesting Trillium
grandiflorum, etc. All these exhibits were much admired, and were
minutely inspected by many of the members at the close of the meet-
ing. Hearty votes of thanks were awarded the several speakers, and
the meeting terminated.

ORCHIDS IN BLOOM

At Newbattle Gardens, May lOrii, ISSl.

iErides Fieldingi.
Cattleya citrina.
II Mossite.
Cypripedium barbatum.
Dendrobium Bensonia?.

11 chrysotoxLira.

II crystallinum.

II Dalhousianutn.

11 densiflorum.

II Devonianum.

II Falconeri.

II Jamesianum.

M literifloruni.

Epideudrum vitellinum majus.
Oongora maculata.
Lffiha purpurata.
Lvcaste Skinnerii.
Masdevallia amabilis.

Masdevallia b^lla.

II Hirryana.

II igiiea.

n Liiidenii.

II Veitchiana.

Odontoglossum Alexandrse.
II cirrhosum.

Hallii.
II Pescatorei.

II Roezlii.

Oncidium concolor.
II flexuosum.

AVelltonii.
Phajus graadiflulius.
Saccolabium ampullaceum.
Vanda gigautea.
II siiavis.
II tricolor,

W. Pkiest.

[One of the varieties of Odoatoglossum— Pescatorei — at Newbattle, is the
most distinct and beautiful we have ever seen, the peculiarity of its markings
being a large purplish blotch, or rather spot, in the centre of each i)etal,
which makes it very effective and distinct. Anent the price of Orchids in those
days, a small plant of a new Cattleya was sold a few days ago by Messrs Thom-
son & Sons, of Tweed Vineyard, for 200 guineas. — Ed.]

THE ASPARAGUS COMPETITION.

This will be held in the horticultural department of the Bath and
West of England Society's Show at Tunbridge Wells, commencing on
Monday, June 6th. Notice from those desiring to compete should be
given to the secretary of the horticultural department, the Hon. and

i88i.] ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 281

Rev. F. T. Boscawen, Show Yard, Tunbridge Wells. All exhibits
should be staged on the morning of Monday, not later than twelve
o'clock. The following prizes are offered for the first year's exhibition,
and are (except the last two for market growers in Kent) open to
growers in any part of the United Kingdom.

Frizes for Gardeners in Private Places. — For the best bundle of
Asparagus grown by the exhibitor : 1st prize, £4 ; 2d, £-2, 10s. ; 3d,
£\, 10s. ; 4th, £i. The bundle of Asparagus is to consist of sixty
heads. The prizes will be given to the largest Asparagus, provided it
be in all other respects unobjectionable. Prizes will not be given
where, in the opinion of the judge, there is no merit. The Asparagus
must be free of earth, and the bundles will be opened by the judges
in all cases where they think it well to do so. No imperfect or
" double " heads wdll count.

Prizes for Amateurs not Employing any Regular Gardener. — For
the best fifty heads, £2, 10s.; 2d, <£'!, 10s.; 3d, 15s. Grown by the
exhibitor.

Prizes for Cottagers. — For the best twenty-five heads grown by the
exhibitor, £l, 10s.; 2d, £\; 3d, 10s.; 4th, 5s.

Prizes for Marl:et Growers. — For the market grower who shall exhibit
the best three bundles, each containing one hundred heads, <£5, 5s.
This prize is offered by the Bath and West of England Society. For
the market grower in the county of Kent who shall exhibit the two
best bundles of Asparagus, each containing one hundred heads : 1st
prize, i'3, 3s. ; 2d, <£2, 2s.

BEDDING TROP^OLUM WORSLEY HALL VARIETY.

This is the most effective of all the compact Nasturtiums that we have
seen, and for small beds is no doubt the best in cultivation.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

May 10th.

Exhibits on Tuesday last were not very numerous, though both the
Council-room and the conservatory contained some groups of interest
and several promising new plants.

FnuiT Committee. — Harry Yeitch, Esq., in the chair. Messrs C.
Lee k Son, Hammersmith, sent three plants of an Alpine Strawberry
named Duru, with long conical bright scarlet fruit, which the Com-
mittee desired to see again. Mr Woodbridge, The Gardens, Syon
House, exhibited a dish of Sutton's Scarlet Globe Radish, neat in form

282 THE GARDENER. [June

and' bright in colour, but considered to closely resemble a variety-
certificated at Chiswick last year as Round Rose Hatif. Mr A. Mann,
St Vincent's, Grantham, sent a fruit of a new Melon named Sir Garnet
Wolseley, of medium size, about 5 inches in diameter, with yellow flesh
and well netted, but deficient in flavour. It was stated by the exhibitor
to be three weeks earlier than Raid's Hybrid, having been in use
since the 18th of April. Mr Mann also sent fruits of RoUisson's
Telegraph Cucumber and one named Excelsior, the latter long, of good
shape, and bearing moderate bloom. Mr Buchanan, gardener to Dr
Siemans, Sherwood, Tunbridge Wells, exhibited a fruit of Wm. Tillery
Melon grown under the influence of the electric light. It was firm
and of good flavour, a cultural commendation being awarded for it.
Some Wheat was also shown which had been sown on December 7th,
and subsequently grown in the electric light, and it was then over 2
feet high. A vote of thanks was accorded to Mr Z. Stevens of The
Gardens, Trentham, for a bunch of Black Hamburg Grapes. A col-
lection of Apple flowers of several varieties was sent from the Royal
Horticultural Society's Gardens, Chiswick ; and Mr R. T. Veitch,
Exeter, sent fine examples of his late white Broccoli Exeter Market.

Flokal Committee.— W. B. Kellock, Esq., in the chair. Messrs
Veitch & Son exhibited a group of new plants, of which several were
certificated and are described below ; but in addition to these the
following were noteworthy : — A Primula from Tchang, said to be hardy,
with loose umbels of pale purplish-white flowers something like the
light-coloured varieties of P. cortusoides. The leaves were bright
green, roundish or heart-shaped, with stalks 3 or 4 inches long. The
Committee desired to see it again from out of doors. Indigofera
decora alba had racemes of white Pea-shaped flowers and light green
pinnate leaves — a pretty variety of a well-known plant. Chionographis
japonica, which was exhibited and certificated last year, was again
shown in good condition with two spikes of its curious flowers, the
linear irregular petals of which impart a very distinct appearance to
the plant. A basket of an excellent dark-red Japanese Maple named
Acer polymorphum latifolium atropurpureum was also contributed,
with specimens of Alpinia albo-vittata variegata very freely streaked
with white. Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., sent a plant of Cypripedium
Wallisi and flowers of C. caudatum for comparison, both having very
long narrow petals, greenish flowers, and a large white blotch inside
the lip ; but in C. caudatum the lip is tinged with brown, while in the
former species it is light green. A plant was also staged as Cattleya
Reineckiana, but the accuracy of the name was questioned by some
members of the Committee. The flowers were fine, with broad white
petals and sepals, a large lip with a crisped white margin, crimson
centre, and yellow base. A vote of thanks was accorded to Mr W.
Fyfe, gardener to W. F. Dick, Esq., Thames Ditton House, Surrey, for
a stand of excellent Marechal Niei Roses.

i88i.] ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 283

Messrs Laing & Co., Forest Hill, contributed a group of Caladiums
and Tuberous Begonias. Among the former Alfred Bleu, Mithridates,
and Princess Teck were especially remarkable for the size and bright
colour of the leaves, but the Committee wished to see the varieties
again, as they were scarcely developed enough to judge of their respec-
tive merits. Three beautiful Begonias were exhibited, all scarlet —
one named Scarlet Gem ; another, Mr Alfred Brassy, with broad petals
of a very bright tint and neat habit ; and the third Begonia Davisi
fiore-pleno superba, which was deservedly certificated, and is referred
to elsewhere. A Coleus named Mrs Baxter with crimson leaves
margined with green was shown by the same firm. Colonel Trevor
Clarke, Welton Place, Daventry, showed a hybrid Elisena bearing
two white Pancratium-like flowers on a scape 2^ feet high. It was
referred to the Scientific Committee. Mr Croucher, gardener to
J. T. Peacock, Esq., Sudbury House, Hammersmith, sent a plant
of Masdevallia Harryana, a very fine variety, the flowers about 2
inches in diameter and rich in colour. Messrs James Carter & Co.,
High Holborn, sent a pretty double Primrose, and plants of what
they termed " a new hybrid Marguerite Chrysanthemum Prince
Rudolph's Bride," with white flowers very like C. frutescens, but
apparently rather more compact in habit and bearing light green
pinnatifid foliage. Mr R. Dean exhibited specimens of his new
dwarf Red Wallflower, very dark in colour and excellent in habit.
The strain was commended. A dwarf double yellow variety with
small bright-coloured but full flowers was also noticeable. Mr G.
Bethell, Sudbourn Hall, Wickham Market, staged plants of a white
variegated Spiderwort named Tradescantia argentea, and some seed-
ling Coleuses ; one, Mrs Baines, neat, mottled, with crimson green and
yellow — and Mrs Bethell, with a rosy centre and green and yellow
margin. Mr Harrison Weir, Weirleigh, Brenchley, Kent, sent pretty
dark -ground, gold-laced Polyanthuses, named respectively Heart's
Delight, Triumph, and Goldfinch. Mr James Kelman, Chingford,
Essex, exhibited plants of a dwarf Musk with yellow crimson-spotted
flowers. Mr Edward Bland, Cranbourn Court, Winkfield, Berks,
staged a plant of seedling Anthurium Schertzerianum with brightly
coloured spathes 4 or 5 inches long. Mr J. Copley Far, Headingley,
near Leeds, was accorded a vote of thanks for a Tropaeolum, said to be
a seedling from Ball of Fire, which it greatly resembled, but the flowers
were perhaps a little larger. Messrs Rivers & Son of Sawbridge-
worth contributed trusses of two seedling Zonal Pelargoniums, both
with shades of pink with full double flowers ; and the Royal Horti-
cultural Society exhibited specimens of the pretty purplish blue
Tropseolum azureum, and the elegant Onychium auratum from the
gardens at Chiswick.

In the conservatory the principal group was from Mr B. S. Williams,
LTpper Holloway, which comprised an abundance of choice Orchids and

2S4 THE GARDENER. [June

otlier plants, and well merited the silver Flora medal awarded for it.
Several Dendrobes were especially notable. D. GrifRthianum, having
nine fine trusses of bright yellow flowers ; D. fiinbriatum oculatum,
also fine; D. Dalhousianum, with pendulous racemes of large flowers;
I), rhodopterygium, pale mauve or pinkish ; and the well-known D.
Pierardi, — were all admirably represented. Aspasia liinta was bearing
several flowers ; the imposing Oncidium Marshalli and the distinct
Epidendrum paniculatum, with several fine Masdevallias, as other
beautiful plants, rendered the group highly attractive.

Messrs Osborn ct Son, Fulham, were awarded a silver Banksian
medal for a pretty group of stove, greenhouse, and hardy plants. In
the centre was a large basket of Gentiana acaulis with abundance of
brilliant blue flowers, forming by far the most important feature in the
collection. Mr Aldous, South Kensington, staged a miscellaneous col-
lection of decorative plants ; and Messrs Barr & Sugden, Covent Gar-
den, were accorded a silver Banksian medal for their extensive and
beautiful collection of Narcissus flowers. Mr Turner, Slough, sent
baskets of the richly coloured Tricolor Pelargonium Mr Henry Cox,
and a fine double white Azalea named Madeleine. The latter was ex-
tremely flue, some of the flowers exceeding 4 inches in diameter, very
full, of good substance, and pure white. Several tastefully arranged
groups were also contributed from the Society's gardens, the Azaleas
and varieties of Primula cortusoides being particularly fine.

The following first-class certificates w^ere awarded : —

Aralia Chahrieri (Veitch). — A very elegant plant with linear leaves
6 to 8 inches long, dark green, the midrib being dark red. They are
arranged in a pinnate manner on the slender branches ; and the plant,
being compact in habit, has a very neat and pleasing appearance.

Gloxina Radiance (Veitch). — An erect-flowered variety, the flowers of
medium size, very smooth, and symmetrical in form ; the corolla rich
crimson, the tint extending nearly to the base of the tube inside, the
outer part very pale pink. It was very free and compact in habit, the
leaves 8 inches long by 5 broad, bright green.

Primrose Cloth of Gold (Messrs James Carter k, Co.). — An excellent
double Primrose of dwarf habit, and bearing numerous large pale-yellow
flowers. The plants shown were from the open ground, and proved
how well adapted the plant is for growing as an edging to borders.

Begonia Davisi Jlore-pleno suj^erha (Laing). — Probably the finest
double scarlet Tuberous Begonia yet in commerce. The flowers exceed
3 inches in diameter, very full of petals, and of a most intense scarlet
tint. It is dwarf in habit, and has the small dark-green leaves charac-
terising the species.

Fdhes immilum aureum (Osborn). — A dwarf Ftibes only a few inches
high, and well suited for pegging down as an edging to beds. The
leaves are very small, and possess a well-marked yellow tint. — Journal
of Horticulture.

i88i/

CALENDAR.

285

NOTICE OF BOOK.

Epitome of Gardening. By Thomas Moore. With an IntrorUictory Chapter
on the Principles of Horticulture, by Maxwell T. Masters. Edinburgh :
Adam and Charles Black.

This work was originally written as a treatise on horticulture for the 'Encyclo-
paedia Britannica.' It is published in book form, tbe author tells us, with the
object of its being useful as a handy-book on horticulture in general ; and to
such readers who may not have time or patience to wade through more elabor-
ate and c jmprehensive treatises, no doubt this Epitome will be of good service.
To write a book like this is, in many respects, more difficult than to write
more minute instructions ; and, to do the author justice, he has done his woik
very well. His traiaing and experience fit him much better for striking out
the more salient points of practice than for minute and discriminating details ;
and this Epitome, embracing the formation of gardens, garden structures, and
the practical parts of all branches of horticulture in a very condensed manner,
will meet the wants of those who require only a few leading hints, and who
have time and observation to grapple with and apply the rest themselves.
The principles of horticulture by Mr Masters are equally condensed and brief,
and we would advise all readers of the book to thoroughly digest them before
proceediug to the practical part.

CTaUnirar*

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines.— Young plants that were
shitted into their fruiting-pots three
months ago will now have good hold
of the frebli soil, and should be grow-
ing freely. With the stronger sunshine
of midsummer and the full ventilation
required, they will need much more
water, and should never be allowed
to remain dry for any length of time,
or they may get a check that will
cause them to start into fruit. Con-
sequently it is indispensably necessary
that the soil be keyit constantly moist ;
and every time they are watered, give
them weak guano-water, not stronger
than two ounces to the gallon, or just
as much as well colours the water.
The ventilation should now be care-
fully regulated, or with the rapid
growth the plants ought to be mak-
lug they may get drawn, and lack
that sturdiness so desirable in all
Pine-i)lants. Let the ventilation com-
mence as soon as the thernu)meter rises
to 15", and increase until by eleven

' o'clock there is a free circulation of
I air about the plants. Let the shut-
ting up be done by degrees, clo.-^ing
the pits so that with sun the heat may
; touch 85° for a short time. Syringe
tbe plants and damp the paths aiid
walls at closing time, but do not cany
syringing to excess, or the growth may
be soft and watery from an accumula-
! tion of water at the axils of the leaves.
Just give sufficient tire-heat at night
to prevent the temperature from fall-
ing below 65° in the early morning. If
the pots are plunged in tan-baik and
it has shrunk away from the pots,
press it to their sides firmly. L the
l»lant8 have been placed thickly to-
1 gether as a temporary arrangement,
they should now be replungtd at 2
! feet apart each way. The crowding
' of Pines thickly together is a great
evil. An effort should be made to get
j {dants intended to supply ripe fiuit in
I autumn started by the end of the
' month ; and provided they have been

286

THE GARDENER.

[June

kept cool and dry, as directed in
former Calendars, they are sure to
come into fruit by applying moisture
and increased warmth now. Let them
have a bottom -heat of 90°, a night
temperature of 70°, and a good water-
ing ; and if their roots are healthy, they
will soon show fruit. Plants intended
to supply fruit in winter should now
be kept cool and dry for a month ; and
treated in the same way after that
time, the result should be the same.
Look over plants in fruit, and thin
oil" all suckers not rei^uired for stock.
Give ripening fruit a free circulation
of dry warm air, but do not dry them
otf too severely at the roots. Fruit
swelling off in various stages should
be stimulated with liquid manure and
a warm moist atmosphere. Remove
ripe fruit that it is desirable to
keej) in good condition for a week
or two to a vinery where the fruit
is ripe, and that is being kept cool
and airy.

Grapes. — Keep Vines cool from
which the Grapes are all cut, and
syringe the foliage three or four times
weekly to keep it clean and healthy.
See that the inside borders are not over-
dry. They should have a good water-
ing as soon as the fruit is all cut.
Keep all Grapes colouring freely aired
night and day, by having the front
ventilators open about 3 inches, and
the top ones to half that extent. If
the borders are in want of water when
colouring commences, give them a
thorough watering ; and if not already
attended to, mulch them, to prevent
the border from drying and cracking be-
fore the Grapes are all used. The same
applies to all Vines swelling off crops —
water them freely up to the colouring
point. Air all Vines early in the morn-
ing, so that damp be dried ofi' the
leaves before the sun gets powerful,
and injury by rapid evaporation is
caused to the foliage. When sudden
bursts of brilliant sunshine succeed a
period of du'l weather, rather shade the
Vines slightly than run an}' risk of in-
jury to the leaves. This is very effi-
ciently and speedily done by putting
a handful of whitening into a pot of
water and syringing it on the roof.
If the weather is at all summer-like,
next to no fire-heat is required, unless
it be for Muscats and other sorts
requiring more warmth and a long

season to ripen them properly. In
thinning crops that are to be kept
through the winter, the berries should
be thinner than is desirable for such as
are to be used before winter. Look
over all Vines at least once weekly,
and remove fresh lateral growth, and
keep a sharp look-out for red-spider,
giving it no quarter : a vigorous
washing or two with clean water
through a fine rose, and a coating of
sulphur on the pipes, will check it.
Attend carefully to young Vines plant-
ed in s[)ring, and tie them to the wires
several times weekly. Allow them to
cover the roof without crowding, let-
ting air and light play freely, especi-
ally about temporary Vines intended
to bear a crop next season. These
should not be allowed to make more
lateral growth than two leaves. If
not already done, lose no time in
getting Vines intended for fruiting in
pots next year into their fruiting-pots.
Keep these in some light place near
to the glass, so that they may get full
sun.

Peaches. — Give the earliest trees
a good washing with the engine as
soon as the fruit are all gathered, and
continue to do this frequently to
keep them clean and healthy. If
there be any spider about them, put
a handful of sulphur in the water.
Look to the inside border, and if it is
dry give it a good watering with man-
ure-water. Look over the trees, and
remove any superfluous shoots, so that
sun and air may circulate about
every leaf and shoot. Air freely all
fruit now ripe and ripening, and look
over them daily and gather those that
are ripe. If to be packed and sent
to a distance, gather before they are
quite ripe. Trees swelling off their
crops in various stages should be well
syringed at shutting-up time. Very
little fire-heat is needed now ; but if
the weather be dull and damp, keep a
little heat in the pipes, or mildew may
put in an appearance. Thin the fruit
in late houses, and all shoots not
needed to furnish sufficient for next
year's crop should be removed at once.
Pay particular attention to the state
of the borders, and never let them gft
dry. All borders should be mulched
with manure. Pinch and regulate the
growths of young trees inclined to
grow unequally.

.]

CALENDAR.

287

Figs.— Whenever the first crop is
gathered from early forced trees, give
them a good watering with manure-
water, and syringe them every after-
noon. Thin off the second crop if
there is more than sufficient for a
good crop. Ripening fruit should be
well ventilated to bring flavour to
the highest pitch. Young trees in
luxuriant growth and not bearing
freely should not be stimulated, but
watered with pure water.

Melons. — Give plenty of air to ripen-
ing fruit, and just sufficient water
to keep the plants fresh and active.
Plant out more plaats for supply of
ripe fruit in August. Give them 10
inches depth of a good holding loam,
with about a sixth part of rotten man-
ure, and make it firm before planting.
Syringe all plants, except those ripen-
ing their crops and setting, at shutting-
up time when the weather is bright.
Attend to the setting of fruit, and
stop fruit-bearing shoots one or two
joints beyond the fruit. Sow more
seeds for succession crops.

Cucumbers.— Do not let the plants

make rambling growths. Keep the
growths well thinned out, and stop
young shoots at every joint. Do not
allow them to bear too many Cucum-
bers at a given time, or the plants
will sufi'er. Water copiously with
dung-water, and syringe the foliage
every afternoon when the pit is shut
up. The heat may run to 90° for a
time with sun-heat. Put a chink of
air on for the night at 6 p.m.

Strawberries in Pots.— The crops
from thesse will now be nearly all
gathered, and any that are not now
ripe may be removed to cold pits or
frames, where they are not so likely
to be attacked with spider, to which
Strawberries in pots are very subject
at this season if standing on hot dry
shelves in houses. As soon as runners
can be had, commence layering j^lants
for next year's crop. These will be
later than usual this year, and the
first should be secured, for all those
intended for early forcing should be
in their fruiting-pots by the middle of
July at the latest. As soon as layered,
keep them well watered, and stop ruu-
i ners beyond the young j)lants.

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Our last paper was written when
drought was accompanied by cold *'nor'-
easters," and to-night (11th May) we
seem much under the same influence,
only vegetation is more advanced, and
consequently suffering from the trying
weather. The advantageous effects
of mulching are very visible wherever
we were fortunate enough to have the
means to apply it to surfaces. Globe
Artichokes, which were well protected
with dry litter, have done better than
we anticipated : wherever they are
springing up thickly, and likely to
become crowded, a general thinning
should take place, and good suckers
with "heels" on them planted in
rows for future supplies — a late sup-
ply may be had when the first lot is
past for the season. Jerusalem Arti-
chokes, which are cultivated in the
slovenly system of allowing the crop
to be had from the remains of last
season's supply where they escaped
being lifted, may require thinning and
regulating ; then a free use of the
fork over the surface. Yearly plan-

tations are always the best, treated
as one would Potatoes. Asparagus
should now be at its best. Some
differ in opinion as to when cut-
ting should cease ; as it lias been
generally late this year, we would
proportionately cut late, — say to end
of June, — taking all as it comes, then
leaving the crowns to grow unmolested
if they are regular as to distance. On
light dry soil salt may be applied, but
we have little faith in its application
on heavy, wet, or cold land ; though the
effect of salt is good by the sea-shore
in poor sandy soil. More Beans and
Peas should be sown. Where the
former are wanted late, which is not
often, sowings may be made to end of
month ; but Peas are always desirable
at any season, and may be sown
till end of month in most districts
with fair success. Some sow in open
ground till 10th or 12th July, and then
follow up with successions of dwarfs
in pits. Mulch and water them ; to
keep in the moisture, a quantity
of dry soil may be drawn over the

288

THE GARDENER.

[June

flanip surface to ]>revent evaporation.
Eirly kinds sliould be chosen for late
sowings. Full crops of Freu«h Heans
may be sown ; they should have well-
prepared rich .soil. Scarlet Runners
should be staked by those who adopt
this system before they fall over ; but
when ke{)C as dwarfs, they require
picking frequently, and the young
growths stopped. Sow for late crops,
Broccoli, such as Snow's and Osborn's ;
and plant out without delay those
which are of good size, with the view
of lifting them to be placed in turf
pits or other protection during severe
weather. July is early enough for
general plantations ; all the liroccoli
may be planted into stove -beds of
rather firm soil, and transplanted
when wanted to fill up ground from
which Potatoes and other crops have
been lifted. Brussf^ls Sprouts, Cab-
bage, Cauliflower, Savoy, Kale, and
any other of the Brassica family, may
be planted wh^re wanted to stand
permanently. Draw drills and water
the plants well at the root when they
are placed in the soil ; the past
winter hag taught many lessons on
these points. Hardy green crops
have been of extra va'ue this season,
and should be well ])repared to meet
another severe season should one
cooae. Crowding is much against
their wellbeing. Red Cabbage planted
now, will in most districts be in good
order for pickling at the right time.
Small heads are generally best col-
oured. Cabbage may be planted
thicklv, and when they are ready for
use every alternate one may be cut
out, and a crop left. Early Cabbage
should be well hoed and mulched after
they are cut, and they will throw out
sprouts tender and plentifully ; these
are in most cages valued more than
fine-grown Cabbage. Cauliflower turn-
ing in may have the leaves tied over
the hearts instead of breaking them
down, and if the hearls are turning in
too quick, lift a quantity and take them,
" root and branch,"' to a cool cellar to
retard them till ihey can be used.

Carrots, Parsninrt, and Beet may be
thinned ; the two latter may have the
thinnings planted for crops should
such be desirable ; they require pud-
dling in soil and water as thick as
paint, drills drawn, well watered, and
the young plants nicely planted. Sow i

Turnips every ten or twelve days ; they
may be sown in larger breadths than
heretofore. When srtil is dry, a good
soaking maybe given the night before,
and the sowing done first thing the
next morning. (iuano sprinkled in
the drills is a good old practice in
starting the plants quickly and grow-
ing them out of the reach of "fly."
Good kinds are Red and White Stone,
Strap Leaf, and Snowball. Parsley, sow
for late crops, and transplant thinnings
of early sowings; these stand the win-
ter best. Radishes may be sown often,
and in every respect treated like Tur-
nips ; French Breakfast is always wel-
come as a fine mild kind ; long red,
white, and red Turnip kinds will meet
all wants. Shading till they are com-
ing up is of much advantage. ^Mustard,
Golden - curled, and American Cress,
may be sown among bushes or in shade
of hpdge or wall often, to meet the de-
mand, if it is in much request. A pinch
of Endive may be sown at end of
month in the shade. Lettuce may
be sown where it is to grow ; the
thinnings can be planted in rich soil,
in the shade, for a succession — larger
quantities may now be sown. Leeks
may be planted in rich soil. To have
them finely blanched, trenches to hold
3 to 6 rows heavily manured, may be
formed, and the young plants planted
and treated like Celery, where they are
grown rough and ready. Sown where
they are to remain, they may be thin-
ned, and mulching placed between the
mwR. Celery may be pricked out
ready for main crops, and plants ready
may be planted in the trenches at once,
and well watered. Potatoes may be
thinned in the stems if they are thick ;
the size and quality of the tubers are
thus improved. A free use of hre
or fork among them is of great
moment in helping them along. Cut
seed-stalks from Rhubarb and Seaka'e
before they do mischief. Sow Salsify,
Scorzonera, and Chicory as required to
supply the demand, and thin to a foot
apart or more. Spinach, to bp of ser-
vice, must bp sown of^en, and in the
sha-^e if possible. Mushrooms are now
liaWe to be attacked by "fly," and
maggots will appear and render them
uselpps. Ridgp Cucumbers, Gherkins,
and Vegetable Marrows may be })lanted
as early as possible if not done ; if
protected with hand-lights so much
the better. Shade them ti\ m bright sun

i88i.] NOTICES TO CORRESPONDENTS. 289

till they are in full growth. Those and filling it with turfy loam to start
started on gentle beds of fermenting them in. Surface stirring, cleaning,
material, such as leaves and manure, mulching, and watering, will now de-
will fruit long before those unaided, mand much attention. Either give a
^Marrows, however, do best as to quan- good soaking of water, and have done
tity when they are planted in a solid with it for a time, or let it alone,
bank of good soil, making a small pit, M. T.

—^-i^si^^^^-t^^

Hoticcs io Carrcspcntbmts.

All business communications and all Advertisem'^nts should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in tbe ' Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the lith of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We
decline noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and
address of writer.

0. — We use the paraffin for Peach-trees at the rate of a wine-glassful to a
gallon of water. In applying it, one person is employed lifting a syringeful
out of the pot or pail and discharging it vigorously back again, while another
syringes the trees with it, and in a few minutes they are syringed with clean
water. This is done immediately after the trees are pruned and tied in win-
ter. We have not had to fumigate a Peach-tree this season for green-fly, and
last spring the only trees out of many that were not affected with fly, were
two that had been syringed the previous winter to kill brown-scale. We do
not approve of the cutting-back system in rearing Peach-trees. We have
la-'ge trees that were planted in 1878 now in full bearing, that under the
catting-back system would have taken double the time in attaining the same
dimensions.

]\[n Greenfield. — Your double Cineraria is a marvel of its kind. The
colour violet purple, large truss, and each bloom about Ih inch in
diameter.

A Eeader. — The excrescence in your Yine-leaves is caused by a too moist
atmosphere and insufficient ventilation, and those who tell you that it will not
do your Vines any harm are blind leaders of the blind. Keep your vinery less
damp and give more air, and, though it will not cure the foliage already affect-
ed, it will check the progress of the evil.

S. Y. — The undergrowth plant on the stove-shelves is Fittonia argyoneura,
and the apron was of Panicum variegatum. There is no soil mixed with the
gravel, but a little weak guano-water is applied occasionally ; and both plants
are planted as cuttings, where they grow, every March.

290 THE GARDENER. [June i88i.

F. G. S. — Your Begonia seed may have been covered too deeply. \Ve never
cover at all. Seed saved from some varieties — such as Monarch, Kallistii,
and Charles Raes — we have never been able to get to vegetate, while the seed
was as carefully saved and otherwise treated as others that came up by the
million.

Beginner, — Shift immediately the plants are done flowering, and have
begun to push young growths. See an article giving every detail of culture
in our present issue.

S. W. — Two of the best Ferns for baskets are Adiantum cuneatum and Pteris
scaberula, but you are rather late to make baskets of these this season in the
way you propose, unless you have a stock of young plants in small pots. I>oth
Ferns named do well in light loam and leaf-mould— about a third of the latter
to two-thirds of the former.

John Gordon. — Your specimens did not reach us till the 16th, and were
very much dried up. 1, Cannot recognise ; 2, Adiantum assimile ; 3, Adiantum
trapeziforme ; 4, Adiantum coccinum ; 5, Adiantum setulosum ; 6, Habrotham-
nus elegan? ; 7, Cannot recognise. 4 and 5 were so shrivelled up that we
cannot be certain about them.

THE

GARDENER.

JULY i88i.

THE ELECTRIC LIGHT AS APPLIED TO HORTICULTURE
at Sherwood, Pembury Road, Tunbridge Wells.

UCH of your readers as may have seen the observations
made by me in your number for July 1880, and felt any
further interest in the question, will probably be ex-
pecting to hear whether any progress has since been
made in the application at Sherwood of electric light
to horticulture ; and I regret to have to say that, in my judgment,
no progress has been made towards a successful application of it.

There has been in use since December last, until about ten days ago,
a larger electric lamp than the one used last year, with an illuminating
power equal to 4000 candles, enclosed in a glass globe, to prevent wind
blowing it out, hoisted on to the top of a high mast placed outside of,
but almost touching the low-pitched Melon and Cucumber house, which
I call No. 1 ; and in a square glass house, which I call No. 2, at one
end of, and close to the roof, there is a small electric light enclosed in
a glass casing, with a zinc chimney-like opening into the external air,
to allow of the noxious products of combustion passing off. The
steam-engine which sets in motion the dynamo -electric machine is
much larger than the one previously in use, and, in fact, during the
day is employed in transmitting power through an electric continuator
to the farm, where chaff-cutting, turnip or wood cutting may be car-
ried on.

The electric light has been, during the period alluded to, applied to
both of these houses, from the hours of six o'clock p.m. to six o'clock
A.M. I incline to think that there is no appreciable increase of tem-
perature of atmosphere beyond the distance of about a foot from the

u

292 THE GARDENER. [July

electric light ; but so many changes by way of ex]»eriment have been
made during the period alluded to, that it would notl)e just to consider
that either in house No. I or in house No. 2 has it yet had a fair
trial.

My object is not to criticise the work, but rather to draw attention
to some of the results originally expected, and to consider how far they
are likely to be realised.

It was suggested by its promoters that the ])rovision of the alternate
influence of light and darkness during the twenty-four hours was not
necessary for plant-life. That, by the aid of electric light, the colour-
ing matter of chlorophyll in the leaves of the plant could be produced ;
that it aids the growth of plants ; that it will counteract the effects
of night frosts, and will promote the setting and ripening of fruit in
the open air. That plants when growing continuously, as in the arctic
(northern was intended) summer, develop more brilliant flowers, and
larger and more aromatic fruits, than when grown under the usual
old-fashioned way of light, followed by its diurnal absence or darkness.
Now let us try and consider how the matter really stands.

1. Light and heat (whatever their physical differences may be) al-
ways travel together in lines or rays, as they are called, from the sun
to the earth. Their joint use in plant-life is supposed to be fairly
understood and appreciated ; but it is not so easy to say accurately'
whether one of them, separated from its companion, is a more active
promoter of any function of plant-life than the other. But when light
and heat are made to travel by different routes, and arrive at the plant-
house by different vehicles (excuse the word), as light by the electric
lamp, and heat by the hot-water apparatus, it is hardly safe to conclude
that they viH do the work as well as when harnessed together as in a
sunbeam.

2. Supposing the plants of the northern (not arctic) summer to
be similar to those that horticulturists here would wish to grow, it
does not follow, even if continuous light — that is, solar light, followed
on by electric light — had been applied during our summer months
when the temperatures of the external atmosphere of air and of soil
would have been more congenial to plant-life, that the same results of
a northern summer would have been obtained here, even if these
results are desirable. They were stated by Dr Schiibeler in effect to be
— that the further north we go within certain fixed limits, the more
energetic is the development of the pigment in flowers, leaves, and
seeds ; while the aroma of wild and cultivated fruits is much greater
than that of the same fruits in more southern countries, but that this
excess of aroma coexists with an inferior degree of sweetness. Such of
us as are gardeners will at once see that one of the important factors
in the question is the wood being well ripened during the northern
summer; another, the inspissated state of the sap of the plant, probably
arising from the dry state of the atmosj^here ; and a third is long rest

i88i.] THE ELECTRIC LIGHT. 293

during tlie northern winter, and the absence of heat, — any of which
would go a long way to account for the results of the northern summer,
without entirely giving the continuous light of the summer the credit
of them.

3. The application of continuous light — that is, solar followed on by
electric light — however applied, whether outside or inside during the
low temperatures of soil and of atmosphere, of our winter months,
is not likely to be productive of high-coloured flowers, and of fruit with
high aroma.

4. Again, as to the statement that electric light produces green col-
ouring matter in chlorophyll corpuscles, that may, or may not, be cor-
rect ; but in any experiments made after the absence of solar light with
the electric light, who is to decide whether the green colouring matter
is not due to the action of solar light during the daytime, rather than
to the action of electric light during darkness 1 Here I would remark
that chlorophyll is not now considered to have any power to decompose
carbonic acid (carbon dioxide) ; it only absorbs or quenches some of the
solar rays, allowing others to pass on to where the protoplasm is at
work, which, with the aid of these rays, alone possesses the power to
decompose its own food-material (carbon dioxide).

5. As to the electric light aiding growth, it hardly applies, as plants
grow in darkness. The question is, whether it does enable a plant to
assimilate its food, ripen its wood, and otherwise perform its functions.

Upon a careful consideration of the whole matter, I think the follow-
ing are fair observations to make : —

6. So far as regards the primary question as to whether the provi-
sion by the Creator, of alternate light and darkness during the twenty-
four hours in our climate, can be dispensed with by plants, I doubt it.
It may be possible to interfere with it for short limited periods, as for
forcing or for growing short-lived plants, as Melons or Cucumbers.

7. So far as an application of electric light during the winter months
to counteract night frosts to outdoor wall fruit-trees, or an appli-
cation of electric light in the spring to outdoor wall fruit-trees, after
they have been started naturally by solar light and heat into growth,
and continued on during darkness by electric light until the fruit is
ripe, I give no opinion until they are tried.

8. So far as regards its application during the winter months by the
outside electric light to the cultivation of Melons and Cucumbers,
grown inside a house heated with hot-water apparatus as in house
No. 1, the results are not at present such as to warrant any favourable
expectation from its adoption.

9. So far as regards its application during the winter months by
means of an electric lamp placed inside the house, as in house No. 2,
specially glazed in to prevent injury to the plants, in which case the
light might be said to assume the appearance, if not the characteristics,
of daylight, I do not give any opinion until it has been fairly tried.

294 THE GARDENER. [July

10. So far as regards any form of application during the summer
months, I do not give any opinion until it has been tried.

11. In my simplicity I previously suggested that it would have been
desirable for horticulturists to have had two houses similar to No. 1
house started at the same time — one of them treated in the usual old-
fashioned way, with alternate light and darkness, and the other treated
with solar light by day and electric light by night, but both of them
heated with hot-water apparatus, and the work respectively done by
them properly compared and measured up. I regret to have to say
there is no probability of that being adopted.

12. So far as regards a combined application of electric light as a
motive power to purposes of horticulture as well as agriculture, it is
not desirable for many reasons, into which it is not worth while
entering.

At present the electric light at Sherwood has ceased burning, and
its consideration by me stands adjourned to another year {D. V.)

Lux VENIT AB ALTO.

Maij 19, 1881.

NOTES.

" Consider the Lilies.'^ — Thackeray in one of his books made a very
nice little sketch of a small boy vigorous in urging his home-made
boat across a tiny pool with the breath of his own lungs. " Urging
the sail of his own work " was the legend below the wood-engraving.
So on reading Dr Wallace's notes on p. 276 of last month's ' Gardener,'
it occurred to me that there are others who, like Thackeray's small boy,
are adepts at urging the sale of their own goods. Of course Dr Wallace's
motives in writing to the ' Gardener ' were of the best ; but I very much
question the taste which prompted him to advertise his own " New Plant
and Bulb Company," and to stigmatise a brother nurseryman's bond fide
advertisement as a misleading one. How an advertisement which offers
certain Lily bulbs at a stated price can mislead any one it is difficult to
see. It is quite different when a nurseryman offers you Lily bulbs
at a certain price, and when you give the order for them he neglects
to send them ; or when he advertises a good plant, and on your order-
ing it he sends you another thing altogether !

I know a good many people who now purchase their Lily bulbs at
the London auction-rooms, where I have myself bought all the good
and generally expensive kinds very cheaply. Good sound bulbs of
Lilium auratum at 30s. to 50s. per hundred is cheap enough, and not
unfrequently the best and largest bulbs may be purchased at that
rate.

Of course a "fairly good representative collection" may be bought
for three guineas — no one disputed that. For the same sum I can get
a " fairly good representative collection " of Orchids, Ferns, or Stove-

i88i.] NOTES. 295

plants. My object in writing my " Consider the Lilies " note (at p.
145) was not to make a ''grim joke," but to show that Lilies being
fashionable, were also expensive in some markets. Nor has Dr
Wallace shown us the contrary. No : he offers us three species of
Lilium at £3 to £6, 6s. " per dozen ; " or a " fairly good " — not a " first-
rate" or "select" collection, mind, but a "fairly good" — collection of
Lilies for £3, 3s. I speak from experience, and the only good and
cheap Lilies I ever procured were from public auction-rooms. By
judicious purchase of Lily bulbs at auction sales, amateurs near
London might make <£3, 3s. go a very long way, — indeed I could thus
secure a first-rate representative collection in that way.

I quite agree with Dr Wallace that Lilies may be considered at a
reasonable rate — at auction sales.

Amongst seasonable flowers there are few of the more distinct and
showy sort which attract the eye more than the now numerous and
beautiful new forms of Pyrethrum roseum. Pure white, rose -pink,
rose-purple, rose-crimson, and magenta are well represented, and in
form and size the individual flowers remind one of the finest of Asters
or Chrysanthemums ; and the finely cut foliage is fresh, and of a vivid
green tint, which enhances the beauty of the flowers. Either for open-
air or conservatory decoration these plants are useful, and as cut-
flowers they are worthy of especial notice, as, in addition to their
bright shapeliness, they endure for many days in vases or glasses
indoors.

The old Double White Kocket is worth all attention from lovers of
white and fragrant blossoms. It blooms in June, and is very eff'ective
in sheltered beds or borders, and its tall spikes of pure rosettes con-
tinue fresh and fragrant for a long time in vases. This is one of the
old-fashioned herbaceous plants that well repays one for a little extra
attention in the way of propagation and culture.

Those who have no hothouses, and to whom Cattleyas and Laelias
are therefore an impossibility, should get up a collection of Iris of
various kinds. The forms of I. germanica are now numerous and
variable, and to these may well be added the finer of the English and
Spanish bulbous-rooted kinds. The man who plants these well can
aff'ord to smile at the fate which forbids his indulging in Orchids or
rare stove-plants.

By the same token, Caladiums may well be replaced by the hardy
and altogether lovely kinds of Funkias. Mr Barr sent me a
splendid collection of twenty -four distinct kinds of these last
January, and they are now quite a feature here. In addition to
their ample and shapely leaves, they produce long spikes of drooping

L>9G THE GARDENER. [July

bell-shaped flowers of a purple or white colour. The only secret in
their culture is to plant in a deep rich border ; and while they should
never be disturbed in the autumn or winter, they may be cut into bits
in April just as they start into growth, and every bit grows away
without the least check whatever. These fine-leaved plants are now
most effectively used in the London parks, and should henceforth find
their way into all good private gardens.

Anent the price of Orchids, I hear of two plants of Cattleya Mendeli
having recently been sold for £'2()0 each. This is a lovely Orchid, and
these especial plants were exceptionally fine forms, of course. Then
Sir Trevor Lawrence gave £bO for a plant of Cattleya exoniensis the
other day with seven leads — a good specimen, in fact. Then that
lovely pure white variety of Coelogyne cristata exhibited by Mr Titley
of Leeds the other day, was so much admired in London that Mr Bull
secured it for his patrons, the new plant buyers, at a cost of £200.
At this rate, Orchids offer to the careful and experienced buyer as
good a rate of interest as pictures or other works of art.

Cattleya labiata — the true old autumn-blooming variety collected in
Brazil many years ago, and first bloomed by the late Mr Cattley of
Barnet — is still rare, and so costly. Mr Day's plants fetched from £20
to £40 each. When it cannot be obtained, however, a good form of
C. Warneri may be sufficient for one's appetite in that way. I have
now two forms in bloom, and one, a native seedling now blooming for
the first time, is little, if anything, inferior to C. labiata in size and
colour of the flower.

A very distinct and effective hardy rock-plant, now in full beauty, is
Onosma taurica. It is sometimes called the " Golden Drop," and bears
its pure yellow Erica Cavendishii-like flowers on a twin-forked, l^afy
spike, 1 foot in height. It is not at all a common plant, but may be
increased by cuttings in April. Either for open-air culture or for cut-
flowers it well deserves a place in all gardens.

Nearly all Gladioli are beautiful, but one pure white kind now in
bloom is especially lovely, and welcome for cut-flowers. I allude to
G. Colvillei albus — sometimes called "The Bride" in bulb cata-
logues. About eighteen months ago we planted a few dozen bulbs of
this kind out in a deep rich sandy border close to a low wall, which
affords them shelter. They bloomed well the first year, but this sea-
son they are very much stronger, and so more floriferous. The long
spikes of pure white flowers are peculiarly attractive for large drawing-
room vases. The only other flower I know which can compare with it
for this purpose is the large .St Bruno's Lily (Anthericum liliago),
which comes in a fortnight or three weeks earlier. Those who have

aSSi.] NOTES. 297

not these two lovely white-tlowered plants in their collection should
make a note of their names now, and secure roots for next autumn
planting season.

Of dwarf wall-shrubs, a note should be made of Veronica Hulkei,
a lovely little bush, now bearing panicles of delicate lilac flowers in
the open air. It is also useful and effective as a greenhouse shrub, in
pots, being quite distinct from the better -known kinds of the V.
Andersoni section.

A good climbing shrub for a cool greenhouse is the lovely white-
-flowered Jasminum jasminioides, now in bloom. Its dark-green pinnate
leaves set off its clusters of white flowers and pearly buds to perfection.
Planted out, it makes rapid growth, and blooms most profusely for
-several months.

Kooted cuttings of the white and sulphur-coloured Paris Daisies or
Marguerites may now be planted out in the open air, and if pinched
judiciously, and the flowers picked off carefully, they will form
handsome little bushes for lifting and repotting next September for
conservatory or greenhouse decoration. They yield cut -flowers in
quantity all through the winter months. These plants are all varieties
of Chrysanthemum f rutescens ; but a still better winter - blooming
Daisy bush is C. tanacetifolia, an old plant, with bright-green leaves,
and snow-white yellow-eyed flowers.

Anent sales of imported Orchids I hear many eomplaints. A friend
of mine who paid rather a long price for Lselia anceps alba found out
when they bloomed that they were of the old type. He was further
taken in some time back by buying what he took to be large " masses "
of Odontoglossum Alexandras. On more closely examining these pre-
paratory to starting them, however, he found out to his great disgust
that they were little pieces, and odd eyeless pseudo-bulbs, sewn or
tied together with soft twine in such a way as to deceive even the
wary in such matters. So it has come to this, — a state of things sure
to meet with its just reward.

If one could always attend these sales in person there would be less
risk, but in commissioning auctioneers they themselves are not unfre-
quently deceived. Of course they would soon put a stop to manipu-
lative trickery, or the selling of ordinary kinds under high-sounding
or erroneous names, if they once detected the thing.

Nevertheless the main facts remain unaltered, that if due caution be
exercised, Orchids, Lily bulbs, and many other plants may be obtained
of as good quality and at a cheaper rate from these sales than else-
where. Now and then one is lucky enough to get a good thing unex-
pected, and that takes the rough edge off previous disappointments.

298 THE GARDENER. [July

The great thing is to attend in person, and examine everything care-
fully. After all, it is a question of whether you really know the phy-
siognomy of the plants you wish to buy.

Mr John Dominy, whose name is " familiar as household words" to
all gardeners, and especially to cultivators of Orchidaceous plants,
having definitely retired from the management of the Chelsea nursery
of Messrs Veitch, some of his friends have selected the time as the one
best fitted to offer him some little memento of a well-spent and ac-
tive life. This is as it should be. Mr Dominy's work has benefited
all gardeners. He was the first hybridiser of Orchids and Nepenthes^
and if it be true that a " man's best work is his best monument," it will
be especially true of the man who has given us Cattleya exoniensis
and Calanthe Veitchii, which are in their way two of the finest of all
known Orchids. What Sir Trevor Lawrence and others desire to do
now, however, is to offer Mr Dominy some little present as a token of
esteem — an acknowledgment that his life's work has been a worthy
one in his own — our own — profession. Those who wish to contribute
are invited to send their contribution, of not more than £5 nor less
than 10s. 6d., to Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., Burford Lodge, Dorking ;
or to the London Joint-Stock Bank, Pall Mall, S.W. F. W. B.

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF WALL - BORDERS IN
KIT CHEN-GARDENS.

NO. VII.

Successional Crops. — Although I have previously written at consider-
able length under the heading of " Useful Successional Crops," I may
perhaps be allowed to briefly recapitulate my experience, adding any
fresh hints that may occur to me. With me, the object in view is not
only to secure as many crops from the borders as possible, but also
to crop them evenly and neatly. Peas are the only tall -growing
vegetables grown, and these are either sown at one end of a long
border, or, as at present, completely fill one border. As soon as these
have ceased bearing, they will be cleared off, and the ground at once
filled with early and second early Broccoli — such as Snow's Winter
White, and the more dwarf-growing Osborn's Winter White. The
ground will not be dug for the Broccoli, both because they will make
sturdier, and therefore hardier, growth on solid ground, and also for
the simple reason of its being almost an impossibility to get the
ground in good working order after being much trampled when occu-
pied by the Peas. At the same time, seeing that early Peas invariably
leave the soil in a dry impoverished state, I find it advisable to cut
out drills for the Broccoli, lengthways of the border (the Peas were-
across) with a heavy half -mattock hoe. These, if liquid manure is

iSSi.J WALL -BORDERS. 291)

available, will be soaked with it prior to planting, and failing liquid
manure, with water. This will enable us to plant with a trowel —
our plants being previously pricked out, — and therefore in the hottest
of weather, without any very serious check to their growth. The
drills can easily be filled with water when necessary ; afterwards, when
the Broccoli is well established, the soil, immediately after the last
watering, can be returned to the drills, thereby enclosing the moisture
and steadying the plants. To crowd Broccoli, wherever grown, is
a decided mistake ; and in the above case our drills will be drawn
about 3 feet apart, the plants of Snow's variety will be 24 inches
asunder in the drills, and Osborn's somewhat thicker. Kone of these
will be lifted, at all events till the heads have formed — the aim being
to get them as early as possible, preferring to lay in and thereby
check those grown in the open.

It is scarcely possible to crop a garden as one would wish during
the first, or even the second, year of management. And here, for in-
stance, on taking charge, I found the wall-border so occupied, that it
was impossible to plant, as I like to do, a good length of early Pota-
toes. These, by being cleared off early, liberate a good piece of
border for such crops as early Strawberries, late Cauliflowers, Carrots,
Tripoli Onions, &c. When lifting, the ground is forked over, levelled,
and all clods broken — this preventing undue drying, and also preserv-
ing neatness.

Few require to be told that the earliest Strawberries are usually to
be had on a south border : but if it is generally known that the
youngest plants give the earliest pickings, the knowledge is not always
acted upon. According to my experience, it is unprofitable to crop
Strawberries a second season on a sheltered border : invariably
plant afresh, thereby securing valuable early fruit, and also a quantity
of strong early runners. Some of the strongest of the latter, when
well established in the pots, layered in, are taken off, and at once
planted on part of the ground previously occupied by the Potatoes. It
cannot be too often stated that the soil for Strawberries should be
made as firm as possible ; loose planting on light poor soil resulting
in weakly growth, and on rich soils exuberance of growth — of course
at the expense of the crops in both instances. Plants to be fruited for
one year only are disposed in lines 2 feet apart, and 12 or 15 inches
asunder in the rows, and the soil is rammed firmly about them, as with
plants potted for forcing. In dry seasons it is advisable to water the
ground some hours prior to planting, and to frequently water the
plants till well established. They will repay the trouble taken. The
site of the old bed is not dug, but prepared and planted as advised in
the case of the Pea ground. Savoys succeed admirably when planted
in this fashion.

The autumn-sown Spinach with me is frequently most profitable
w^hen sown in succession to Potatoes, an^l on a rai.-ed soutli border.

"00 THE GARDExNER. [July

In this position good even beds may often be seen, whereas those
in the open are, at the same time, very patchy and poor. Our sea-
sons being so variable it is advisable, in the southern districts at
all events, to make at least three sowings — the first early in August,
the next towards the end of the month, and the last early in Septem-
ber. As a rule, the intermediate sowing proves the best, but in 1879
the two last sowings were profitless. The round or summer Spinach
appears to be quite as hardy as the i)rickly or winter variety ; and
where the summer crops of any vegetables are cleared off early, rather
than waste seed, or allow land to be idle, I much prefer to sow this
Spinach. If the produce is not wanted it can easily be dug in for
manure whenever the ground is wanted. Spinach delights in a toler-
ably rich soil, and to stand the winter should be sown in drills 15
inches apart, and thinned lightly in the first instance, and at the
second thinning (using the thinnings) to about 9 or 10 inches asunder.

Leeks, I should imagine, are most valued in the northern districts ;
but the past severe winter will have converted many southerners into
Leek admirers. In many instances Leeks were the only " bit of
green" left in the garden, thus demonstrating their value as a hardy
vegetable by no means to be despised when served up as a "vegetable."
Where but few have been grown previously, they will, if the lesson
has not been taught in vain, be grown extensively, even if it be at the
expense of a breadth of the uncertain Broccoli. If extra fine Leeks
are required they may be grown in a manner similar to Celery ; but
they can be had good enough for ordinary purposes from well-manured
deeply-dug ground. They succeed admirably on an east border, and
may be planted according as the early Turnips are cleared off this site.
The young plants should be carefully lifted from the seed-bed with a
fork, and may be either dug in in lines across the border — as Potatoes
are sometimes planted, freely working in the manure at the bottom
of the trenches — or, what is a better plan, be dibbled in. The rows in
this case may run lengthways of the border and about 18 inches apart,
and the holes made with a blunt dibble, about 9 inches asunder, 6
inches deep, and 3 to 4 inches in diameter ; the Leeks to be dropped
into these holes, working in only just sufficient soil to cover the roots.
Unless the soil be rather stifi", no further moulding up will be required,
otherwise a little fine soil should, as the plants develop, be worked in.
One good watering to fix the plants is all that is usually administered.
I have also grown excellent Broccoli, Savoys, and Coleworts on east
borders. They were planted after early Turnips, without redigging
the ground.

A few early White Tripoli Onions fully deserve a place on a south
border. The ground for these should be heavily manured, deeply dug,
and afterwards trodden firm. Early in August is a good time to sow
the seed, and the drills may be 12 inches apart. The seedlings when
large enough to handle, should, if at all crowded, be thinned out

■iSSi.] ROSES UNDER GLASS. 301

slightly, deferring the final thinning till the spring, when the thin-
nings may be either transplanted or used for culinary purposes. The
Onions may be disposed from 4 to 6 inches asunder in the rows,
according to the size of bulb required. Early White Naples or its
synonym the early White Italian, are the best early varieties ; and
their flavour is much appreciated by some employers not fastidious.

W. Igguldex.

ROSES UNDER GLASS.

Rose- CULTURE under glass is a practice which has been, if anything, rather
neglected in gardens; and yet, perhaps, the gardener who has to supply
cut-flowers for the house could not grow any one plant that is equal to
the Rose for such purposes between January and June. The introduc-
tion of the Marechal Niel led to the extension of indoor Rose-culture,
and, incidentally, to the trial of other varieties for planting out in houses ;
and at the present time a good few gardeners are extending their ex-
perience in that way. Pot- Roses are useful for pot culture, but whether
we consider the quantity or the quality of the flowers, there can be no
doubt that planted-out trees succeed best from the middle or end
of February. Here we have for some time back depended a good deal
on the Rose in spring for cut-flowers ; and now, from being scarce with
us, if anything, for floral decoration, it has become a common practice,
when other things happen to be scarce, to " make up with Roses " — in
other words, the extra demand is provided for by the Roses, but we have
never too many for house purposes or for giving away. Our success
with the Marechal Niel, like mostly all who have tried it anywhere
round here, has not been satisfactory without frequent planting and
renewals ; and consequently we have for some years back taken to other
varieties most extensively, and the three best of these are Gloire de
Dijon, Cheshunt Hybrid, Souvenir d'un Ami, and a few others ; but the
two first — a light and a dark — are regarded as the best for our purpose.
Two years last November we planted an old but strong standard
Gloire de Dijon in one of the greenhouses, allowing it a few square
yards for extension. The second year it bore several hundred blooms,
and this season it has borne close upon 700, and all were good, large,
and fine, many of them quite fit for exhibition purposes — the greater
proportion being produced in March and April, but the house had to
be kept as cool as possible to keep them back to that period. Another
lesser plant, put in at the same time, and allowed to ramble up the
gable of the house, has done equally well. From these two plants alone
-we have often had several hundreds of blooms standing in water in the
fruit-room, because they were not w^anted at the time. A Cheshunt
Hybrid covering a large space of the roof in the same house has bloomed
contemporaneously with the Gloires, and produced a great quantity of
flowers, and is still flowering at this date, June 8th. In addition to

302 THE GARDENER. [July

those used by ourselves in our own establishment, about eighty dozen
blooms have been sent away during March and xVpril to other people.
Our outdoor Roses are late in ilowering, and to succeed the early house
plants we have just erected and planted a kind of lean-to orchard-
house structure, 45 feet long, with all the best climbing Roses, which
we propose training as methodically as Vines on the long-rod system,
which answers admirably for Roses, especially the stronger-growing
trees. I could at times have cut shoots of Gloire 15 feet or more in
length, that were wreathed with flowers in all stages of development
their whole length, so regular had the buds broken. It is the young
annual shoots, however, that break best, no matter how long they are.
In training, the original stems are led off horizontally along the bot-
tom of the wall, and also along the front to the bottom wire, and from
these shoots are led upwards, about 6 inches apart, just like young
Yine-canes, and they are encouraged to grow as much as they will, and
allowed the following spring to bloom their whole length. When done
flowering, every alternate shoot, at least, is cut down to a bottom bud,
to insure plenty of wood at the base for the following season, and the
others are allowed to extend till the space is filled. In order to fur-
nish a house regularly with wood all over, some methodical system of
training of this kind is necessary, and far more easily carried out than
the haphazard method of taking shoots when they are formed, and
scheming how and where to train them.

The varieties we have selected for indoor work, all good kinds,
presenting distinct shades of colour, are Gloire de Dijon, Cheshunt
Hybrid, Marechal Mel, Devoniensis, Madame Berard, Reine Marie
Henrietta, Solfaterre, Madame Levet, and Souvenir d'un Ami. Before
the planted-out trees flower, plants in pots are forced. J. S. W.

FRUIT- CULTURE.

THE APPLE.

Medium Trees : Manariement of the tops. — Having disposed of the root-
management of Apple-trees on Crab and Paradise stocks, we will now
turn to the tops. As we have already indicated, we consider that trees
which are to be allowed to attain the greatest development that Apple-
trees are capable of, should be on stems a few feet in height. In the
case of large trees, which will ultimately wholly occupy the space
allowed for them, it is necessary that they should have clear stems 5
or 6 feet high, that room may be afforded underneath their branches
for all necessary operations. Where only single rows are grown this
is less necessary, and where high winds prevail, it may be an actual
evil. In the case of medium-sized trees which are planted singly, or
in single rows, trees with stems from 1 to 2 feet will answer well. If
trees are to be kept, either by necessity or choice, from becoming more

i88i.] FRUIT -CULTURE. 303

than medium-sized, regular pruning of the branches, both in summer
and winter, will be necessary ; hence it is desirable that the branches
to be operated upon be not elevated unnecessarily. Whatever form of
tree may be adopted, then, trees with short stems should be chosen.

Form. — We are somewhat at a loss whether to advise beginners to
train their trees in a cup-shaped or pyramidal form. We have seen
handsome fruitful trees both ways, and think that we cannot do better
than describe both methods, so that, whatever form may be fixed upon,
the pruning may be successfully carried out.

Ciq^sJiaped trees are more easily produced than pyramids, for some
varieties can only be made to assume the latter form with a good deal
of trouble and labour. In the case of young trees a couple of years
old or so, with from half-a-dozen to a dozen shoots, the shoots may be
so regularly placed that nothing is required but a shortening back of
the growths. Strong vigorous shoots need to be shortened back more
than half-way, for if left long, the basal half of the shoots will fail to
push into growths, and so remain bare, and long bare branches should
be guarded against ; every portion requires to be clothed with fruit-
bearing spurs, and one thing necessary for this is a proper shortening-
in of the shoots annually. No two kinds of Apple-trees need the same
kind of treatment in this respect. Some kinds are naturally furnished
with a profusion of spurs, while others have a tendency to remain bare
to a great extent. Those which have a tendency to remain unfurnished,
should be shortened further back than those with a different tendency.

Although some trees may be well provided with shoots to form a
good foundation for the future tree, the majority will require assistance
in this matter. Some may require hard cutting back, in order to induce
them to push a sufficient number of shoots. Others may require the
centre to be cut out, if the centre should be strong and the side
branches weak. In the majority of cases it will be advisable to place
a small hoop in the centre of each tree, to which the shoots are to be
securely yet loosely tied. At first the shoots should leave the main
stem at an angle of something like 45''. Should some of them
run away much stronger than the rest, they (the strong ones) should
be pinched — that is, have the growing point removed — about midsum-
mer. The weaker ones will then grow stronger and make up lost
ground to some extent ; and if the practice is persisted in year after year,
a proper balance will be established. The pinched shoots will probably
push again, but must be repinched, and so restrained from running
away with more than their proper share of the sap. The second year
they should again be shortened back as before, and the hoop en-
larged and moved upwards, and the shoots again properly fastened.
This process should be repeated yearly, until the trees have been
brought to assume the desired form. We may say here that the
branches should be kept parallel with each other, and about a foot
apart, while one tree should not approach nearer to its neighbour than

304 THE GARDENER. [July

3 feet. This room is necessary, not only for space required when per-
forming the necessary operations connected with their proper cultiva-
tion, but also for the purpose of admitting sun and air, without which
success cannot be had.

In pruning such trees in winter, all side -growths from the main
branches must be pruned back to one or two buds. In summer all
side-shoots should be pinched back, after they have made six or seven
leaves, to three, and this must be repeated if necessary. All terminal
shoots must be allowed 'to grow on, and not be stopped until the
usual shortening-in in winter. Such restriction will naturally tend to
the production of fruit-buds in abundance, but not if the trees are
over-luxuriant. It is therefore necessary, in almost all cases, to peri-
odically raise the roots and shorten back the strong fibreless ones — in
other words, root-prune them, as we have already advised under an-
other head. Only a moderate growth can be fruitful. When weakly,
there is not vigour enough to produce quantities of fine fruit. The
cure is assistance by means of manuring, as before treated of. When
the trees grow rampantly, flower-buds do not form : the cure is their
root-pruning and root-lifting. When trees grow moderately and bear
freely, neither operation is necessary.

Perhaps we ought to caution beginners against stumping off all
annual growth — leaders and everything. Trees which do not or are
not allowed to progress within certain limits annually, soon get into
a bad w^ay. Restriction, to some extent, can be practised with
safety, if a proper balance between top and root be maintained, and
even with profit : but when this restriction becomes absolute, either
by starvation, root-pruning, or top-pruning, especially, the latter, trees
(especially small ones) soon get into a bad state. There are scores of
trees representing all the modes of absolute restriction to be seen all
over the country ; we hope these remarks may be the cause of such
trees being properly treated in numbers of instances. Absolute re-
striction has to be adopted inside glass structures, on walls, &c., and
Nature herself adopts the plan in the case of full-grown trees ; but with
trees which have not attained half or quarter their natural dimensions,.
or have not filled their places on walls, tfec, the case is very different.
Most cottagers and villa-owners have to complain that their space is-
very limited. Land is scarce in this densely-populated and wealthy
country, but we presume nobody is restricted from going either up-
wards or downwards. Soil may be made any practical depth, and
depth of soil, especially in the case of fruit-trees, is nearly as good as
width. An acre of ground with 12 inches of soil is nearly worth
twice as much as one with only 6, for it will produce twice as much,
and land should be valued more in accordance with its capabilities
than its extent. Of course 6 inches of soil may be made 12. Indeed'
we rather think the acre of deeper soil worth more than twice a&
much of the thinner ; for while the labour necessary for two acres

i88i.] FRUIT -CULTURE. 305

of poor soil is twice as great as for one of rich, the produce is
often not more — sometimes less. For trees, then, the soil should
be made deep, if it is not so to begin with, and then the right
thing to do is to let your trees up, up — gradually but steadily up.
Gradually, so that the individual branches may have time to grow
stout as they grow tall, and so be able to stand beating winds. By
this means much of what is wanting in length and breadth may be
made up in height and depth.

This is a little of the nature of a digression. The remarks were
prompted by the sight of a wall of-fruit trees when every growth made
had been snapped off— leaders and all — although two-thirds of the
wall was uncovered. Pruning, to some persons, simply means cutting
off all annual growth. In many instances no pruning is better by far
than this system, which has nothing to recommend it except simplicity.
The system is simple.

Pyramids. — Many Apple-trees would naturally assume a pyramidal
shape if let alone ; others require a little pains in order to induce them
to take on that habit. The first thing necessary in order to succeed
in the formation of a symmetrical pyramid is to fix a straight stake in
the centre of the tree to which the leader is to be tied. Only young
trees should be chosen for forming pyramids from, for trees some years,
old which have been allowed to grow irregularly are not at all well
suited for the purpose. Maiden trees — trees a year from the bud
or graft — which have never been cut back, are best. The centre
shoot should be cut back in order to induce it to push side-growth
and then tied to the stake. Two or three shoots w411 push in
spring; the uppermost must be trained straight upwards, and the
others allowed to grow outwards. If all grow equally strong, no further
attention will be necessary the first season ; but if one or two (of the
side-shoots) run away much stronger than the others, they must be
pinched in whenever it is seen that they are stronger, in order to
equalise the growth. The second year's pruning consists in again
shortening the leader, and also the side-shoots ; the leader, in order to
induce the formation of another set of side-shoots — and the side-shoots
in order to cause them to form spurs. The second year's training must
just be the same as the first year's, but, in addition, the superfluous
growth on the first year's side branches must be pinched to three leaves
as soon as they have formed six. All terminal growths must be left to

grow on untouched, unless they are growing very strongly, in that

case the points should be taken out of the side-shoots when they are
about 10 inches long, and out of the leader when it is about 15 inches.
This will cause a second growth (which will be equal to a year's gain),
which must by no means be again pinched. All superfluous shoots
must be spurred in by pinching as before. We need not repeat the
above. Year by year the operations are the same. The aim and object
of shortening-in the leaders is to cause enough of furnishing shoots to

306 THE GARDENER. [July

push. The end and aim of shortening-in the side-shoots is to cause
them to push enough of spurs, and also to secure that the branches be
strong enough to bear up loads of fruit without breaking, or even
unduly bending. Branches whose side- shoots are being continually-
pruned in, and whose leading shoots are allowed to run out unchecked,
grow very slender, are only partially covered with spurs, dangle about
in a useless way with every gust of wind, and break down with less
than half a load of fruit. Perhaps we should add that the branches
should be from 8 inches to 1 foot apart, and as regular as possible. If
necessary the branches should be regulated by being tied down, up, or
sideways, as the case may be. When the trees are 5 or 6 feet high, and
growing vigorously, but showing no signs of fruit-bearing, lifting and
■careful root-pruning should be practised, and the trees carefully re-
planted among fresh soil. In all cases of root-pruning and replanting,
fresh soil — that is, soil which no tree-roots have impoverished — should
always be used for putting round the roots. Should a dry season follow
lifting, mulching should be given, or the trees may get too severe a
check. Even supposing that the trees grow with a moderate amount
of vigour — which is what ought to be aimed at always — the mulching
should still be given in order to prepare the trees for bearing a heavy
crop the year following ; for a dry summer, following upon root-prun-
ing the previous autumn, is sure to cause a great number of flower-
buds to form, to be followed, if no untoward event happen, with a
heavy crop of fruit, and this will absorb what would otherwise be ex-
pended on useless shoots. When once the trees are brought into a
bearing condition, less pinching and root-pruning will be necessary ;
but care should be taken that a fairly vigorous growth is maintained,
and for this reason winter top-dressings and manure-waterings should
be given whenever necessary, and over-cropping should be avoided.
Some varieties, when once they commence bearing, make little head-
way ; and although it is a desirable thing to turn over-vigorousness
into fruit, it is a most undesirable thing to cripple young trees. When
some kinds — Stirling Castle, for example — commence forming flower-
buds, flower-buds often terminate the leaders. These, if left alone,
will develop into clusters of Apples, but the result is that the tree
extends no further. When small trees show this tendency the points
of the shoots must be shortened back, however short they may be
already, to a wood-bud, the tree fed by some means, and only a few
fruits be left to mature until the tree is again in a vigorous state.

A. H., H.
{To be continued.)

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 307

HINTS FOR AMATEURS.

HARDY FKUITS.

There is always plenty of work among these for the enthusiast at this
season. Thinning, topping, syringing off insects, and maybe a good
soaking of water for young trees especially, will do much to help them
to swell off their crops of fruit, which I trust are heavy everywhere ;
but at present great complaints are rife in our district, known so
favourably as a hardy-fruit locality ; for frost such as we had during
the last week of April and several nights early in May, was what the
hardiest and best of crops would suffer from. Trees of a coarse watery
growth, and not likely to bear fruit next year, should be taken in hand
without delay. Examine the roots, and see where the mischief
originates. Tap-roots may be at work, and these we never hesitate a
moment with, but arrest their progress with the knife, ramming lime-
rubbish and soil underneath them, and plenty of fibre is formed in a
very short time. Early in May we noticed a Plum growing very strong,
the shoots starting off like gross willows. A man was digging close by;
we called him, and had the soil removed at one side, and found a
strong tap-root going down by the base of the wall. We cut it off about
a foot from the trunk of the tree, lime-rubbish and some stones were
rammed in the excavation, the root covered neatly with good soil,
and a soaking of water given, the shoots were thinned, a number
being stopped. The tree is struggling into healthy stiff growth, but of
a different character to what it was previous to manipulation of its
"tap." Strawberries and cherries will require protection by nets if
not already done, also small fruits. Training may now be fully con-
sidered, and at the early stages of growth the shoots had better be
taken along evenly and neatly — it saves much time in winter. Twigs
placed neatly across the young shoots (though an old-fashioned plan)
will keep them close to the walls and save much hammering of nails.
Where wires are in use the case is different, but twigs may be used
advantageously with them. Avoid all crowding, which is so common,
and stop leaders taking undue share of growth. Examine grafts, and
remove ties which are too tight ; place stakes to shoots growing up
which are in danger of being broken by wind.

ORCHARD-HOUSE.

In this structure large supplies of water will be required, and to
trees heavily cropped a colouring of guano in the water will be of
much service. When fruit is ripening, water must be given moderately
and free from stimulants. None should be allowed to become sodden.
Syringe freely to wash off insects ; mulch liberally, give plenty of air,
and keep all surfaces sweet and clean. Expose fruits in all stages,
especially when ripening, to sun and air.

X

308 THE GARDENER. [July

FLOWER-GAEDEN.

There will now be abundance of work pegging young growths into
their positions. Trim any which are out of bounds, and pick off decay-
ing flowers which have served their purpose. No weeds should find a
place in either beds or borders. Surface-stirring may be done freely ;
it is more advantageous than some believe. Good soakings of water
may be given when necessary ; dribbling on surface is worse than use-
less. Smooth firm walks often rolled, especially after being softened
by rain, well -mown grass, and neatly -cut edgings, are some of the
items which make gardens pleasant-looking. At end of month is a
good time to begin propagating any scarce plants, a stock of which is
desirable. Verbenas when established early stand the winter well.
Dahlias and Hollyhocks require staking and thinning. Hollyhocks for
competition should be kept thin of stalks and flowers. Gladioli and
all tall herbaceous plants should be neatly staked ; and Roses now
require frequent attention. Dead flowers, suckers, and insects must
be dealt with in a summary manner. Give soakings of manure-water.
Budding may be commenced as soon as stocks are ready.

PLANT-STRUCTURES.

It is often a difficult matter at this season to get all plants requiring
|) )tting attended at the proper time. There should, if possible, be no
time lost in placing well-rooted plants into pots large enough to meet
their requirements. When balls have to be reduced to allow fresh ma-
tarial without increasing size of pots, careful cutting of old roots should
take place. Plants such as Azaleas, Heaths, and other subjects often
require reducing. They must be dealt with carefully ; cutting too deep
into the ball might ruin them. A firm surfacing with suitable soil may
ba all that is needful by some. But when potting is done, let the
soil be firmly packed between sides of pots and roots. Careful potting
and watering are indispensable with hard- wood plants which grow
slowly, and are easily killed : a large proportion of peat is necessary for
these i3lants.

Cinerarias, Primulas, and early Calceolarias may require shifting.
They do well in turfy loam and well-rotted leaf-mould mixed with
a little sand : keep them cool and in a shady position. More Calceolaria
seed may be sown for main late batch. Old plants kept for stock do
not answer so well as seedlings. Cinerarias to be divided for cuttings
must not suffer from want of water, or be left a prey to vermin.
Chrysanthemums must be kept growing freely by being shifted to
larger pots as they become ready . When stunted at roots by want
of water or pot-room, their lower leaves are sure to become rusty
and drop off. Stake them carefully. Flowering and foliage plants to
koep the conservatory gay during autumn should now be well advanced
and growing freely. Fuchsias drop their flowers readily when stunted
by want of pot-room. Plants must be taken carefully from heat to

■i88i.] TABERN.EMONTANA CORONARIA FL.-PL. 309

the show-house : air them by degrees to withstand the change. This
applies to Achimenes, Gloxinias, Gesnerias, Slc. Stove-plants must not
be subjected to drying winds when in the show-house. Plenty of free-
fiowefing plants to keep the structure gay were mentioned last month.
In stoves all plants are growing freely. Frequent examination for
vermin, keeping the roots in healthy soil, and moisture properly ap-
plied, are their chief wants at present. Plants for autumn, winter,
and spring display must be frequently examined at their roots to keep
them healthy. Pot them as they require more room for their roots.
-Shut up early with moisture, and give a little air at night. M. T.

TABERNJEMOWTAT^A CORONARIA FLORE - PLENO.

As a useful flowering-plant during winter, spring, and summer, this
plant should be grown where only the most limited collection of plants
can be accommodated. A well-grown plant will not fail to produce
hundreds of its delicate pure-white flowers over a long period of time,
especially if a little pinching of the shoots is attended to at intervals
while growth is being made. Fortunately its flowers are fragrant, which
alone should render it as popular as the Gardenia — an evergreen plant
it much resembles, both in appearance and in its cultural require-
ments. It is unquestionably one of the most useful stove-plants that
can be grown where button-holes and bouquets are largely in demand.
This plant is seldom seen figuring in the exhibition-tent, yet it is
worthy of extended cultivation for that purpose ; and I am inclined to
believe, if employed for exhibiting, it would soon occupy a foremost
position. Certainly its blooms do not last long individually, but the
succession in which they are produced would more than balance the
deficiency in that respect. Another objection I have heard raised
against it is, that it will not open safficient flowers at any one
time to render it attractive ; but this is a mistake, as sufficient can be
produced to give to the plant a white appearance. I have at the time
of writing a plant nearly 4 feet through, literally covered with fully
expanded flowers, and hundreds yet to open. Tabernaemontanas can
be retarded and kept back for a long time if not wanted to bloom
until later in the season ; but this must be done by keeping them
in a few degrees lower temperature during winter, and avoiding push-
ing them forward into growth during the early part of the year. They
can easily be trained to make growth either early or late, and thus
produce masses of bloom so as to suit the diff'erent requirements of
various cultivators.

Propagation is effected by means of cuttings, which root freely at
almost any season of the year, from the young or half-ripened wood.
In the latter condition they are preferable ; and no better time can.
be selected than towards the end of the present month, or beginning

310 THE GARDENER. [July

of next. The cuttings can be either inserted singly in thumb-pots,.
or round the sides of a 5-inch pot, which should be well drained
and filled with sandy peat, with a good dash of ■ silver sand over
the surface. When inserted they should be well watered, and,
if possible, plunged into bottom - heat, and covered with a bell-
glass or placed in the propagating-frame. They will root readily
enough without bottom-heat if kept close and shaded from the sun,
but not quite so quickly. When well rooted, they should be placed
into 2 or 3 inch pots, and grown in the shade until established.
Under the shade of Cucumbers and Melons is a capital place for them.
If well rooted and established in the small pots before winter, a
vigorous start can be made the following year, and much valuable
time saved when good-sized plants are required quickly. I have
always found it advantageous to get an early start in the season, and
push forward as rapidly as possible consistent with the nature of the
plants to be grown, when large ones are required in as short a space
of time as possible. If once checked, or left to look after themselves
from time to time, instead of obtaining a rapid growth^ it takes a much
longer time, if ever a good plant is produced. This applies with equal
force to the majority of plants. The small plants should not be allowed
to flower when specimens are the object, so that their whole energies
may be devoted to the production of wood. When allowed to flower,
their progress is considerably impeded, and a much longer time is re-
quired in which to produce a good-sized plant. The young plants, when
established in small pots, should be wintered in a temperature of about
60°. Towards the end of January, if strong and well rooted, they can
be placed in 5-inch pots, and introduced into a little higher temper-
ature than the one recommended for wintering the plants. If in good
condition at potting-time, growth should be rapid, and by the end of
July or beginning of August they should be placed in pots 2 inches
larger. While growing, air should be freely admitted when favourable,
so as to produce a strong sturdy growth. The house or frame in which
they are grown should be closed early in the afternoon, so as to run
up the temperature considerably with sun-heat. The winter treatment
is simple, merely keeping the plants in the temperature named, and in
a light situation where they can enjoy plenty of room, which is as
essential during winter as in summer when growing, if the symmetry
of the plants is to be maintained. Potting should be attended to the
following year, as the plants require it, giving a 2-inch shift each
time, until placed in 12-inch pots, which is large enough to grow a
good specimen at least 4 feet through. Potting will scarcely
require to be done once a season after the first year ; but this the
cultivator will be best able to determine according to the progress of
the plants and the condition of the roots. It is preferable to repot
them twice a-year if they require it, rather than allow them to become
checked by being pot-bound, and remaining in that condition during

i88i.] TABERN^MONTANA CORONARIA FL.-PL. 311

the winter. At the same time, it is not advisable to leave the second
potting until late in the season, or the plants will not pass the winter
so well as if thoroughly established in their pots. In potting, the
pots should be well and liberally drained, the drainage being covered
with a layer of moss before placing in any of the soil, which should be
pressed moderately firm into the pots. The old ball should not be
disturbed more than is really necessary in removing the crocks or any
loose soil on the surface of the ball. Tabernsemontanas do well in a
mixture of peat and loam, but all peat is preferable, as it keeps
in good condition for a greater length of time. The peat should be
good, and not of a wet, sour nature, or the plant will not thrive in it
long. A few small bones and broken charcoal can be mixed with the
peat, with plenty of coarse sand, to keep the whole open and porous.

While growing, liberal applications of water should be given both
at the roots and upon the foliage. The syringe should be used twice
daily, and well applied to the under side of the leaves, which will
keep them free of red-spider and thrip. When plants have received
their final shift, and well filled the pots with roots, weak stimu-
lants may be freely given. Nothing is better than clear soot-water
^iven alternately with water in which a little guano has been
mixed. Careful watering is necessary in all stages, especially for
a time after repotting ; but in no stage of growth should they become
saturated or dust-dry, or considerable injury will be the result. If
the flower-buds are advancing, either condition will cause a large
number to fall off. During winter, while at rest, they will not require
nearly so much water, and may with advantage be allowed to be
much drier at the root, but not so as to injure either roots or foli-
age. Rest is best produced by subjecting the plants to a little lower
temperature, say 55°, a little more on mild nights, or 5° lower during
severe weather. No advantages are gained by striving to maintain
the temperature of a house to any given degree during winter : many
are too particular on this point ; and to keep the house right, the pipes
are scorching hot one night, and nearly cold another, thus doing more
harm than good. The best guide is to maintain the internal tempera-
ture in accordance with the external one. This may appear to those
who are particular to a degree rather an irregular system, but it is
nevertheless a natural one, and plants generally enjoy it, and do well
under such conditions.

Very little training is required to produce a good plant, as it nat-
urally grows into a shapely bush, especially if due attention is paid
in its early stages of development to pinching the shoots as they
require it. At first a few of the strong shoots may be brought down
to the rim of the pots. If the plant is grown with a stem a foot or
so in length, the shoots will eventually come down as they extend
in growth to the base of the pot. Good-shaped plants can be grown
from the commencement without tie or stake, if room is allowed them

312 THE GARDENER. [July

to grow and develop naturally. When the plant attains a fair size,
its growths are very regular all over, and no stopping is required, unless
it is done so as to cause a much longer succession of blooms on the
same plant. It enjoys a little shade while growing during the hottest
part of the day; at the same time, it should have abundance of light^
Shading can be dispensed with as growth is completed, so that the
wood may be well ripened.

Small plants can be grown in 5 and 6 inch pots, and look well for
decoration when bushy. They will flower as freely when small as
when grown into larger plants. Wm. Baedney.

SHRUBBERIES.

Shrubs and shrubberies have become institutions as settled as they
can very well be under our regime of recurring cold winters, during
which the shrubs are emasculated or shortened over, or entirely cut
down. The inventor of shrubberies evidently arrived at the ultimate
limit of the average human mind with regard to this question ; for he
has had imitators without number in past times, and they are as
plentiful at the present day. There are, of course, minor features
of detail to be found, but the main features are alike and unchange-
able. The lines for the proposed shrubbery bed or border are laid-
down, the ground prepared, and the shrubs planted in regular order
and at regular distances, like so many vegetables of uncertain breed.
Weeds are kept down with the greatest severity, or allowed to flourish
more or less, according to the exigencies of the labour power, until the
shrubs themselves put an end to the fitful struggle by smothering the
unfortunate weeds. And then they begin amongst themselves to fight
the battle of the fittest, until an extra-severe winter recurs and thins
out the half-smothered tenderlings ; and for a few years longer the
Laurels and Yews have peace, and the Hawthorns and the Lilacs revel
in plenty, and give an abundant return of sweetest odours, until these
now large monsters approach and touch each other, and are choked for
want of air above and food beneath ; when some day — as no amount of
rough pruning will prevent their straggly limbs from being seen — the
whole are decapitated, and a fresh lot of youngsters are set in amongst
them to fill the spaces, until the rapidly growing giants again assert
themselves, and the smothering process is renewed. With variations
these processes are going on throughout the length and breadth of
the country. Landscape-gardeners, with their carefully prepared plans,,
may fill in their shrubberies with plants, some of which are to be per-
manent in their occupancy, and the greater number tenants at will;,
but the worst of these arrangements is that the "padding" is never
removed, and the shrubbery when full-grown is only a mass of crowded
specimens; and all along the newly planted groups are treated in the

i88i.] SHRUBBERIES. 313

light of a portion of the garden, to be kept as tidy as possible through
a free use of the hoe, and sometimes of the rake. There are few things
which strike one so painfully on an estate as this matter of large
shrubs huddled together, and killing each other. There is no reason
whatever that it should be so : shrubs are not like a forest of trees
grown to produce the greatest amount of saleable produce in a given
amount of space ; shrubs are grown either as blinds or screens, or as
features of ornament, and one and all of these ends can be fully
gained without working on the rough-and-ready principle, which has
nothing to recommend it other than covering bare soil quickly in the
first place. But here again there is no reason for shrubs to grow in a
bed of bare soil. Where thorough preparation of the soil is necessary,
by all means let it be made, but not to the length of making and
keeping the shrubbery like a small nursery. After shrubs have once
got a grip of the soil, they flourish quite as well with ground covered
with grass round them and kept mown, as they do when growing in
a bed of bare soil. But these matters apart, the principle of crowding
shrubs together is not a good one. In old places where this system
has been in practice for many years, and where shrubs are grown
closely together, change is not easy ; but wherever alterations are in
progress, or new grounds are being laid down, there is an opening for
something better for the shrubs. Shrubs are not treated with sufficient
breadth ; they are tolerated, as it were, as necessary evils, so much space
being marked out for them in certain positions, without thinking of the
ultimate effects. They are huddled into corners as blinds, and dibbled
together in lines or groups as screens, in as little space as possible, to
get them to do well for a few years. The ground for shrubs is as
niggardly dealt out in policies of tens or hundreds of acres, as if the
whole belongings of the place were included in units. Why should
this be ? Surely a shrub, healthy and well developed, is in itself an
object of beauty, as much as is a tree or a tiny flower. Why, then,
not allow more space to our shrubberies, more room to our individual
shrubs, dotting them, as it were, in groups of single specimens on
lawns, with grass underneath and around them, and space sufiicient
when well grown to allow us to walk in and out amongst them ? and
with shrubs as blinds it only amounts to granting a little more space,
so that they may not be crushed up against buildings or walls, but
allowed sufficient room to develop naturally. There is also this prac-
tice to be noted, of planting valuable Coniferse amongst the commoner
shrubs. In all such cases, unless the shrubs are entirely cleared out and
the Conifers left, this practice means certain destruction to these.
Then there is another practice which cannot be recommended, the
mixing of dwarf-growing shrubs with those of coarse and quick-grow-
ing habit. This is just as bad in its way as the last-mentioned.
These refined little fellows should have places by themselves, just as
we try to keep our dwarf-growing flowers from getting overgrown by

314 THE GARDENER. [July

coarser subjects. Flowers in shrubberies are not in their most becom-
ing positions ; and though we have them there, besides many other
objectionable features to contend with, the thing we should like to
see would be an entire remodelling and rearranging of the place
which shrubs occupy in the garden. The subject is worth thinking
over. • R. P. B.

CULTIVATION OF THE GOOSEBERRY IN THE NORTH
OF ENGLAND.

The Gooseberry is generally supposed to be indigenous to the island
of Great Britain ; but whether this be so or not, there is certainly no
country in which it arrives at a greater degree of perfection than in
the British Islands. It is always found to flourish best in temperate
climates, and where the climate inclines to cold rather than warm. It
is not found, for instance, in Africa, in the South Sea Islands, or be-
tween the tropics of either hemisphere, but is found in the temperate
parts of Europe, America, and Asia, In the southern and central
parts of Africa the plant is perfectly unknown, except in some situa-
tions where, among the high mountains, the temperature is low
enough to suit its requirements. Persons who have resided a long time
in India, and who during that time had never seen a Gooseberry or
Currant, speak with delight of the European character which these
plants give to the scenery of the mountains in the north of that
country.

It is not exactly known when the Gooseberry became an object of
cultivation in this country, but it had become a garden fruit in the
reign of Henry VIII. ; for the old writer Tusser, who lived in that
reign, says, in his ' Five Hundred Pointes of Good Husbandrie,' —

"The Barberry Respes, and Gooseberry too,
Look now to be planted as other things do."

Soon after this period descriptions were given of about a dozen
varieties — and among the rest, one called the Blue, a colour not now
found among the hundreds of varieties in cultivation. The fruit was
apparently very small when the plant was first brought under cultiva-
tion, resembling the small tasteless fruit which is still found in the
south of Europe ; and in point of size, at least, it does not appear to
have improved much for more than a century after Tusser's time,
as may be inferred from the surprise expressed by Pepys at seeing
Gooseberries as big as nutmegs. At every subsequent period (says an
interesting and useful little tract, called ' The History and Cultivation
of the Gooseberry,' printed at Sheflield, and from which much of the
information in this article is taken) the Gooseberry has claimed a share
of attention from horticulturists. It has found a place alike in the
garden of the nobleman and of the cottager, and has amply rewarded

i8Si.] CULTIVATION OF THE GOOSEBERRY. 315

by its abundant and profitable produce the skill of tbe gardener, and by-
its increased size the care of the amateur grower. Indeed, the success
which has attended its culture under the spare hours of the artisan
seems to entitle it to the distinctive appellation of the poor man's fruit.

It has been ascertained that under favourable circumstances the
Gooseberry will attain to a considerable age and grow to a great size.
Bushes have been grown to measure from twelve to eighteen yards in
circumference after being planted about fifty years. The garden of
Sir Joseph Banks, at Overton Hall, near Chesterfield, contained at
one time two remarkable Gooseberry plants. They were trained
against a wall, and the branches of each measured upwards of fifty
feet. In this country the plant shows a marked preference to cool
situations. The fruit in the southern parts of England is not nearly
so good as it is in the north, and in general the flavour of the Scotch
Gooseberry is much superior to those produced in any part of England ;
while in Scotland itself, the Gooseberries grown about Dundee, Aber-
deen, and Inverness, exceed in flavour those grown in the southern
counties.

As far as regards mere size and appearance, however, the Gooseberries
of Lancashire are unequalled by any in the world. Growers there
have devoted so much attention to them as to have attained to almost
absolute perfection in the matter of their cultivation. In the counties
of Lancashire, Cheshire, Staffordshire, and Warwickshire, the striking
improvement which has taken place in the cultivation of the Goose-
berry is to be attributed less to the professional gardeners or market-
gardeners, than to the mechanics who very generally spend their leisure
time in the pleasing occupation of gardening, and particularly in the
culture of the Gooseberry; and it is to their industry and perseverance
that we owe the production of most of our largest and best varieties.
The custom of gardening has a tendency to improve both the health and
the morals of the people. Any pursuit which makes men acquainted
with the peculiarities of vegetable economy, in however small a degree,
has a beneficial effect upon the heart and understanding; and it is
certainly better for working men to vie with each other in raising
large Gooseberries, than in those games of chance, and in cruel sports,
to which the leisure hours of the working classes have been too often
devoted. The one is a rational and innocent emulation, the other a
degenerating excitement or a brutal indulgence.

The origin of the different kinds of Lancashire Gooseberries is often
indicated by their names, which are generally fanciful, often local and
personal, sometimes even absurd, but frequently characteristic of the
manners of the county in which they are produced. Galloper, Green
Corduroy, Tom Joiner, Lancashire Witches, Dan's Mistake, Roaring
Lion, Richmond Lads, Cheshire Lasses, Jolly Miner, Porcupine, Jolly
Painter, Top Sawyer, Crown Bob, (fee, are sufficient specimens. It is
not to be expected that so much attention should, however, be given

316 THE GARDENER. [Jum

to the cultivation of the Gooseberry in the counties named witliout
the operation of some external stimulus ; therefore Gooseberry shows
have long been established in difterent parts of Yorkshire, Lancashire,
and Cheshire. The time and conditions of these meetings are deter-
mined by certain rules, and the minor details of each show are gene-
rally settled in tlie spring, from which time until the day of the ex-
hibition each competitor entered in the list subscribes a small weekly
sum towards the purchasing of prizes. The prizes are sometimes given
in money, but often in kind. The exhibition of the fruit, and adjudica-
tion of prizes, generally take place in July or August, and the weight
of the different sorts is published in the report of the shows given in
the newspapers of the town where the show has been held, while the
result of the shows in various parts of the kingdom have for a long
time been printed in Manchester, and circulated chiefly among the
growers, in what is called ' The Gooseberry Book.'

We may now state a few particulars to illustrate the progress which
has been made in the cultivation of the Gooseberry. About a century
ago it was considered an extraordinary thing when a Gooseberry was
grown which weighed down the old spade-ace guinea which was then
in circulation. Berries were soon after produced that weighed twice
as much; and now, little would be thought of show fruit which would
not weigh five or six times as much. The largest Gooseberry on record
was a handsome yellow fruit called Teazer, which was shown at
Stockport in July 1830, and weighed 32 dwts. 13 grs. The heaviest
red berry on record was the Roaring Lion, exhibited at Nantwich
in 1825, and weighed 31 dwts. 16 grs. The heaviest white was a fruit
of The Ostrich, 24 dwts. 20 grs., shown at Ormskirk in 1832, in
■which year the largest red was only 27 dwts. 13 grs. In the same
season a seedling green was exhibited at Nantwich of the weight of
30 dwts. 18 grs. To this statement of the weight to which the fruit
has sometimes been grown, it may be of interest to add that a seedling
plant of reputation has been known to produce when sold upwards of
J32. This is a rare case ; but it is not at all unusual for twenty
guineas to be brought in by the distribution of a single bush.

J. G., W.

STRAWBEimiES.

By the time these notes are seen in the ' Gardener,' many Strawberry-
growers will be thinking more of gathering their crops than culti-
vating their plants ; but details of the latter should closely follow
the operation of the former ; and it will generally be found that July,
August, and September are important months for Strawberry-culture.
It is then that old plantations must be restricted in growth, good young
plants secured, and fresh plantations formed. All the best Straw-
berries in the garden here are had from plants from six to twelve

i88t.] strawberries. 317

years old. Indeed they are so old that every year we think of rooting
them out and throwing them away ; but they always fruit so well
again that all thoughts of the kind are given up. Some growers may
differ from us in keeping such old plants, as we know there are many
who renew their Strawberry plantations every two or three years ;
and in some cases we think this wrong, as it gives much labour and
not much better crops than would be had from the same plants were
they allowed to grow on the same place for many years ; and when
established plants are bearing a full crop annually, the young ones
always being brought forward are not doing anything like this, as two
years or so passes before they come into full bearing, and a full crop
for one year only is about all that is had from them under such a sys-
tem. I feel very certain, from experience and observation, that this
is not the best mode of growing Strawberries in either large or small
quantities, and would advise as a rule that they be left so long as
they bear well, whether this be for a period of six, eight, or ten
years. At the end of any of these times the crop, so far as number
goes, will be better than it was in their best juvenile days, but the
fruit individually may not be so large. This, I think, is the only
objection which can be raised against old Strawberry ^plantations ;
and there is nothing very substantial in it, as we all know that in
flavour, which is the weighty point, medium-sized fruits are generally
superior to the monstrous samples ; and for preserving, the medium-
sized are always preferred.

If Strawberry plantations are intended to last in good bearing
order for many years, they must be looked to oftener than just when
they are in fruit, which in many small gardens is the only time they
receive much attention, and before and after they are allowed to
become one mass of weeds. Such a state of matters is the surest
way to cause degeneracy that any one could possibly practise ; and
those who have formed ideas of the error of keeping Strawberry
plants until they are well up in years from plantations of this kind,
should not be too positive in their conclusions, as it is not to such
plantations that I refer, but to those which have always been kept
clean and free from weeds from their youth upwards, and which re-
ceive the same cultural attention as any other permanent crops. In
both young and old plantations, weeds will now be inclined to grow
freely, and runners will be choking up the parent plants. These, if
allowed to remain on after the fruit has been gathered, will do much
harm, as they deprive the old plants of much of their strength, shade
the main crowns up from the sun, and cause them to be tender and
sterile. When kept clean, free, and open, the reverse of this happens :
the crowns develop strongly, and reach that state of maturity which will
preserve them through a severe winter, and cause them to fruit early,
profusely, and perfectly the following season. It is not any attention
which may be paid them a month or two before they fruit next year,

318 THE GARDExNER. [July

but rather their treatment from now on to the end of the next three
months, that will be the means of producing a superior crop. Exposing
the crowns well now, keeping them free from superfluous runners and
weeds, placing a thin coating of manure between the plants where the
soil is becoming poor, and hoeing the surface soil occasionally, are a
few of the means to be employed to insure success in following years.
Plants treated in this way now may want looking to a number of times
before the winter, but after that they will be safe, and will need little
or no more care until weeds and runners come again about this time
next year. Mulching may be done with two objects — one, to improve
the soil and plants, the other, to keep the fruit clean ; or the two
reasons may be combined, and mulch to secure all these benefits,— and
in this case September or October is the time to do it. Some use
their grass-cuttings for putting round their Strawberry plants, and
others use short straw or hay ; and both of these materials answer
very well for keeping the fruit from mixing with the soil, but further
than this their usefulness does not extend, as there is no fertilising
properties connected with such materials to any extent. For this
reason we do not care to use such mulchings, but prefer stable-manure
lor the purpose. A mixture of straw and droppings is excellent.
When put on in autumn, the fertilising parts are well washed down
to the roots during the winter, and only the clean straw remains by
fruiting- time. Under this system the surface of the ground about the
plants IS constantly covered ; and this does no harm in wet but great
good during dry periods ; and hoeing can hardly be done, but hand-
weeding may be resorted to.

In forming new plantations, many advantages follow when the
plants are carefully prepared previously. All our young Strawberry
plants for the open quarters are rooted in small pots in the same way
^s IS done to get young plants for pot-culture. All the strongest
runners are layered into 3-inch pots early in July. By August they
have formed nice little balls of roots ; and then they are planted out,
when they receive no check, but proceed at once to grow ; and by
October they are often as fine plants as many would be at the end of
the second year if they were dug up from amongst the old plants in
August and planted then, as is the common practice in making new '
Strawberry-beds. Beds -I have said, but this term should not be used,
as Strawberry-beds are now out of date. The improved plan, and the
one most worthy of being followed, is the style of planting row after
row without any formation of bed. 18 inches between the rows, and
1 foot from plant to plant, is a profitable distance at which to plant
most sorts. Previous to planting, the ground cannot be too well
prepared. Moderately heavy is preferable to light sandy soil. If
good, depth is not of so much consequence— from 1 to 2 feet being
suitable. To these depths, or more, it should be trenched, rough
manure being placed at the bottom, and good substantial stuff near

i88i.] GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 319

the surface. In this, growth will be free and lasting. Of kinds, each
has his favourite. Ours for early crops is an old sort, which many might
laugh at, but with which we have most reason to be pleased — the one
we mean is Black Prince. For pot and outdoor culture this variety is
an excellent one. None bears more freely, or ripens quicker at mid-
winter and early spring ; and out of doors it is earlier by some weeks
than any other sort. Here we have been gathering it from the open
border since the 24th of May. The fruit are about the size of the
berry of a Gros Colmar Grape when fully swelled, in colour very dark,
and flavour superb. For dessert and preserving it is highly valued.
Keen's Seedling is another good old sort. President is well worth
growing ; and James Yeitch and Dr Hogg are other useful sorts.
Bothwell Bank Prolific, a new sort which w^e have had lately from
Messrs Dicksons & Co., Edinburgh, is the best of all for exhibition
purposes, as in size of berry it is enormous, and its other qualities
good. J. MuiR.

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

NO. V. — THE PIMELEA.

The plants belonging to this genus are elegant evergreen dwarf shrubs;
the majority of them are of a compact habit of growth, forming handsome
symmetrical specimens without the aid of stakes or other supports. In
this country their flowering season is during the spring and early sum-
mer months. The flowers are borne on the points of the shoots, and
when the plants are healthy almost every shoot will produce flowers.

At one time several species of the Pinielea were to be seen in all
places where plant-growing was carried on with spirit in this country.
At the present time, however, it is only from a few plant-exhibitors
that the Pimelea receives the amount of care and attention that its
beauty as a flowering-plant deserves. Three or four species of Pimelea
rank amongst the very best of plants for exhibition purposes ; hence, as
a rule, we see one or other of them in the winning collections at our
spring and summer flower-shows. Their merits, however, are not con-
fined to the exhibition table, as they are very useful and highly effec-
tive when used for the decoration of the greenhouse or conservatory,
and whether of a large or comparatively small size, are valuable for the
latter purposes. One thing that should cause the species of Pimelea
named at the end of this paper to be more generally cultivated than
they are at present, is that they are not difficult to manage, their cul-
tural requirements in all stages of their growth being simple, and
easily attended to by any one who takes an interest in plant-culture.
To succeed, however, in growing these plants successfully, the culti-
vator must supply them in due time with whatever is essential to
their wellbeing, otherwise the growth of the plants will be unsatisfac-

320 THE GARDENER. [July

tory to him. It matter.s not how simple the conditions necessary to
success in the cultivation of any plants are — unless they are supplied at
the right time, the plants will suffer in health through the omission ;
and plants of the Pimelea are no exception to this rule.

Points to be observed in the culture of the I^imelea are, that the
plants in all stages of their growth should be placed in an airy position
as near to the glass as possible, and should not be shaded except
when in flower, or in the case of extra bright sunshine. They should
be kept free from insects at all seasons. Red-spider, however, is the
only insect that affects them seriously, and it must be kept down by oc-
i\isionally syringing the plants with cold water in which a little soft-
soap has been dissolved. The plants must not suffer from want of
water at the roots, neither must the soil about the roots become sat-
urated or " soured " by an over-supply of water or defective drainage.
Hence, in the matter of watering, the cultivator should exercise con-
siderable care, and only give sufficient for the requirements of the
plants at the different stages or seasons of their growth.

Once in two j^ears is often enough to repot established plants of the
Pimelea, and the time to do so is soon after they have done flowering
for the season. When they become large, they will, with the assistance
of weak liquid-manure, given once a-week during the season of active
growth, remain healthy and flower abundantly for several years without
repotting. The Pimelea succeeds in a compost of peat and sand, or in
one of loam and sand, in the proportion of 3 parts in bulk of the former
to 1 of the latter. Peat, however, of a good fibry kind, is, in my opinion
preferable to loam in which to grow the Pimelea. Some cultivators
recommend a mixture of peat and loam as compost for the Pimelea
and several other hard-wooded plants ; but I have never been able to
discover the benefit arising from the practice, nor understand the theory
on which it is recommended. When repotting the plants, they should
be supplied with an adequate amount of drainage, and the fresh soil
made as firm as possible during the process, remembering not to fill the
pots over full.

The Pimelea is increased by seeds or cuttings, the latter being the
method in general practice. Half-ripened shoots, about 2 inches long,
inserted in silver sand and covered with a bell-glass, and treated in a
similar way to Heath cuttings, root freely. It requires three or four
years, however, from the time the cuttings are rooted until the plants
are of a useful size ; and consequently it is better to purchase plants in
a flowering state from a nurseryman, than to raise them from either
seeds or cuttings.

The five species of Pimelea named below are, in my opinion, the most
desirable to cultivate, and when properly treated are sure to please the
cultivator.

P. elegans. This species blooms in April and May. It is a strong
grower, producing large heads of flower of a creamy-white colour.

iSSi.] BOTANY FOR GARDENERS. 321

P. decussata blooms from April to July. It is a very free-flower-
ing species. The flowers are pink in colour, and the plant is a robust
grower.

P. Neippergeana. This is a compact - growing species, with white
flowers, and blooms in April and May.

P. spectabilis rosea. This is a very ornamental kind, the flowers
being large and of a rose colour. It is a free grower, and plants of it
soon attain to handsome specimens.

P. Hendersonii. The flowers of this species resemble those of the
former in colour, but they are not quite so large. It is a very desirable
kind, however, and if kept free of red-spider, is a handsome and striking
plant when in bloom. J. Hammond.

BOTAT^Y FOR GARDENERS.

NO. VIII. — FEUIT.

The fruit is, in the strictest sense of the word, the matured pistil ;
but Lindley says the term is also applied to the pistil and floral
envelopes taken together, whenever they are all united in one uniform
mass. The different forms and general characters of the various fruits
are very interesting, and are very apt to become stumbling-blocks to
many a beginner, as some are so much like seeds, and in some cases
seeds are so much like fruits, that at first it is diflicult to discern one
from another, or, as a Cockney would express it, " t'other from which."

" As the fruit is the maturation of the pistil, it ought to indicate
upon its surface some traces of a style ; and this is true in all cases,
■except Cycads and Conifers " (which, as I said on page 226, have their
ovules exposed), " which have no ovary. Hence it will be at once seen
in the case of grains of corn, and many other bodies that resemble
seeds, traces of the style can be seen, so that they are not seeds, but
minute fruits." Seeds are almost invariably contained in a seed-
vessel called the pericarjj, which may consist of the ripened ovary
only, or, in the case of the ovary being inferior, of the calyx -tube
-combined with the ovary. When the pericarp opens, it is said to
deldsce; when it neither opens nor splits when ripe, the fruit is termed
indeJiiscent.

All fruits are simple or multiple — a single fruit results from a single
flower, or a multiple of fruits from a multiple of flowers. The numer-
ous forms of fruit may be classed among the following, viz. : —

Simple Fruits. — (1) Achene — apocarpous, dry, indehiscent, usually
one-seeded, and does not contract any degree of adhesion with the
integument of the seed. Ex. Buttercup, Rose, Strawberry. (2) Nut
— a dry, bony, indehiscent, one -celled fruit. Ex. Hazel, Acorn.
(3) Drupe — usually apocarpous, succulent, indehiscent, and one-
seeded, with _the inner layer^ of the pericarp stony. Ex, Cherry,

322 THE GARDENER. [July

Almond, Peacli. (4) i?frr ?/—syncarpous, succulent, whose seeds lose
their adhesion when ripe, and lie loose in a pulp. Ejc. Gooseberry,
Currant, Grape. (5) (7rt;>y?</e— many-celled, dry, dehiscent, syncarp-
ous. Ex. Primrose, Tulip, Violet, Horse-chestnut. There are a great
quantity of minor forms that present familiar instances. The follow-
ing are some of the most familiar, viz. : —

{\) Pome, Apple; (2) Etanio, Bramble; (3) Pi/xis, Anagallis ;
(4) Cremocarp, the Umbelliferous tribe ; (5) Fepo, Cucumber ; (6)
Bcdausta, Pomegranate ; (7) Cojie, Pinus ; (8) Galhulus, Juniperus, kz.

The fruit of the Mulberry may be taken as excellent examples of
collective fruit.

Of the many forms of fruit, one of the very curious is the edible
portion of the well-known Strawberry ; and if the reader will just
take one in his hand, he will at once detect little longish spots. These
are the true fruit, or, more technically speaking, achenes (aforemen-
tioned). The portion eaten is simply a common receptacle for the
true fruit. The chief difference between the Strawberry and Black-
berry is very apparent, as the carpels of the latter are succulent, and
not the receptacle as in the case of the former. The Raspberry is
almost identical with the Strawberry.

Many readers of this magazine would no doubt like to see for
themselves ilowers gradually merging into fruit. If so, let them
take particular notice of a certain plant of the common Buttercup
(Ranunculus repens) when in full flower, and every day for some time,
and they will gradually perceive its slowly approaching fruit ; first
the petals and then the stamens will go, leaving nothing but the
carj^els (pistils), which are gradually going into fruit." Each fruit has
a peculiar elaboration of its own to perform ; for though the fluids
afforded by the branches and leaves be nearly similar, yet each fruit
differs from another in fragrance and flavour. Six different varieties
of the Peach and of the Apple, budded on the same branch, still retain
unaltered their times of ripening, and their distinctive colours and
flavours. The processes going on at different periods of a fruit's
growth are very opposite in their character. During their green and
growing state they are usually converting gummy matter into an acid,
but during ripening they as commonly are converting an acid into
sugar. To convert gum or mucilage into tartaric acid, as in the early
growth of the Grape, oxygen in excess should be absorbed, for their
relative components stand thus : —

" Carbon, ....
Oxygen, ....
Hydrogen, ....

" They might therefore be expected to absorb more oxygen than the
leaves, and this is actually the case; for though a Vine -branch will
continue to vegetate in a glass globe hermetically sealed, yet the

Guin.

Tartaric acid.

43.23

24.05

50.84

69.32

6.93

6.63",

i88i.] HARDY PLANTS IN AND OUT OF DOORS. 323

Grapes upon it will not increase in size unless oxygen gas be from
time to time admitted. The same phenomenon occurs during the
ripening of the Grapes ; oxygen has to be absorbed during the con-
version of tartaric acid into sugar, but a larger volume of carbonic
acid has to be evolved, and this is coincident with the results of well-
established experiments, uniformly testifying that carbonic acid is
given out abundantly by ripening fruit."

The forms of fruits we are presented with are innumerable, both in
shape, size, and many other characteristics. A very curious one is
that of the Pandanus odoratissimus (?), whose fruit, we are told, when
ripe, explodes with great violence, and sometimes inflames spon-
taneously when dispersing its seed. Of our native British plants we
have Balsamina noli-me-tangere and Cardamine impatiens, both of
which have elastic seed-vessels, which immediately discharge their
contents by sudden collapse or recoil of their valves, and the contact
of a fly is quite sufficient for this purpose. W. Roberts.

{To he continued.)

HARDY PLANTS TN AND OUT OF DOORS.

We are in the habit of comparing, rather unfavourably, our hardy
plants with our indoor exotics, looking upon the former as coarser than
the latter, and less attractive generally ; but the comparison is not a
fair one. No doubt a plant grown out of doors, exposed to all weathers,
looks a little less delicate than one grown under glass and by the aid
of artificial heat, just as fruit under glass takes on a more delicate
bloom and finish ; and in comparing the flowers of the border with
those of the hothouse, this should be remembered. It should also be
borne in mind that many of our hardy plants, in fact the most of them,
are also exotics, existing under, to them, unfavourable circumstances
in this country, although succeeding well enough for ordinary decora-
tive purposes. Take the common Geranium, for example. In the mass
out of doors it does show well enough j but do the individual flowers
equal those grown under glass in size and lustre ? No : and it is the
same with all hardy plants, or nearly all ; and there are many that are
never seen in perfection except when forced, of which the common
Spiraea japonica and the Dielytra spectabilis are good examples. Neither
are like the same plants when forced, or even just protected from the
weather. The plant is larger, the leaves of a more delicate hue and
more perfect, and the flowers altogether superior. Before the Spiraea
began to be forced, no one had any idea what a grand thing it was, and
it required to be seen well grown and flowered before gardeners would
believe in it. We remember it being tried for the first time many
years ago in a garden in Scotland, on the recommendation of a party

Y

324 THE GARDENER. [July

who bad seen it in fine condition ; but, as the plants forced had not
been properly prepared, the result was disappointing, and the pot-
culture of the plant was discontinued at the time. To see the Spiraea
in perfection as well as in quantity, one must visit Covent Garden on a
morning, or the window-boxes in front of the mansions of the West
End, where plants in small pots, bearing numerous feathery spikes of
flower of large size, attest the beauty of the plant under protection.

Practically speaking, some one may perhaps ask, What inference is to
be drawn from these facts ; or if it be proposed to transfer our hardy
plants from the garden-border to the hothouse, in order to grow them
to perfection? to which the answer is No, of course ; but it is undoubted-
ly practicable, as well as highly desirable, to cultivate hardy plants under
glass in certain cases more than has yet been done. There are num-
bers of people possessing, perhaps, one or two glass-houses filled with
the usual assortment of indoor plants, that would have far better suc-
cess and satisfaction with a collection of hardy plants, that would cost
much less to begin with, and be far more easily grown and flowered. Such
thoughts as these have forced themselves upon visitors to the spring
and early summer shows on many occasions within the last few years,
since collections of hardy plants have grown to be a feature of exhi-
bitions. These collections, as can be seen at a glance, have not been
grown out of doors, but in cool frames or houses for the occasion, and
the display is proportionately fine. At some of the late exhibitions
the show of hardy plants was second to none, not even to the Orchids,
which beat them in the unique character and colouring of their indi-
vidual flowers, perhaps, but not in variety and general effect — did not
equal them in the latter respect, indeed. The display was rich in the
extreme, as the plants were well grown and flowered, and tastefully
arranged, but without any set-off except their own foliage. There were
brilliantly coloured Phloxes, Primulas, Saxifragas, red, white, and blue
Lupins — the latter grand plants in small pots, foliage and flowers per-
fect— Pyrethrums, double and single, some of the latter very con-
spicuous by their broad star-like flowers of intense crimson colour and
many other shades — Campanulas, Spiraeas, Potentillas, Aquilegias, Wall-
flowers, Iris, Liliums, Narcissus, Funkias, and many other things, present-
ing nearly every bright or pleasant shade, and all varieties of form.
Such collections give one an excellent idea how rich and effective a
flower-border of such plants may be made by a judicious selection
of such subjects. The varieties of hardy plants are innumerable
almost, but those which have only a botanical interest are not
wanted in beds of pretty flowers. The botanical garden which
displays the original types of the different species looks very different
from a collection of the same species represented by its cultivated
varieties, as a rule; for there are, of course, numbers of original forms
that are also attractive and showy. The cultivated and improved
hardy border-flowers stand in nearly the same relation to their primo-

i88t.] decorative GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 325

genitors that the cultivated Carrot or Cauliflower does to the wild
type of their class.

All hardy plants, or nearly all, may be cultivated with great ease
in pots either in the border or in the frame or the greenhouse, and the
least assistance in the way of protection brings them into flower long
before they would flower in the open border, — hence they form an ex-
cellent adjunct for conservatory decoration. Iris reticulata, for ex-
ample, displays its beautiful flowers in mid-winter or earlier in a cold
pit ; and numbers of other varieties come in proportionately early.
The mere protection of a hand-light or a cloclie will cause many spring
flowers to bloom long before their time ; and if they are in pots, they
may be lifted and placed in either the greenhouse or the window. In
short, spring flowers bloom, when protected, in winter ; summer flowers
in spring; and autumn ones in summer. Without exception, one of
the finest window-plants we ever saw was an Anemone japonica alba,
— a large plant that stood on a stand by itself in the bay-window of a
drawing-room, where it had grown, and flowered in July. The foliage
was as large and green as that of the Vine indoors, and quite spread
over and hid the pot, and the flowers were larger and purer than they
are even seen outdoors. The plant stood in the window of a mansion
on the promenade of a seaside town, and numbers of people stopped
to look and admire the fine specimen, wondering at the same time
what it was, and many going away no doubt in the belief that it was
some rare and little-known plant. It is noticeable now, however, that
hardy plants in pots are a greater feature of the market-growers' stalls
than they used to be. Anemones and Primroses are common, and the
pretty Iberis corifolia is becoming a favourite, being of a compact
habit of growth, and a great improvement on the old variety.

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

IMANTOPHYLLUM MINTATUM.

The above is a plant that no collection, however small, should be with-
out one or more of ; it is one of the most serviceable greenhouse plants
we have, either for house, table, or conservatory decoration, and a well-
flowered specimen is unsurpassed as an exhibition plant. With proper
management it can be had in flower at almost any time of the year,
and with relays of plants, forced on at sufficient intervals, or retarded,
as the case may be, they may be had in flower all the year round.
Though it stands forcing well, and, indeed, is often grown in the stove,
it is in reality a cool greenhouse plant. It belongs to the order Ama-
rallidaceae ; but, like the Vallota purpurata, is evergreen. The leaves
are of a deep green, broad and stout at the base, and slightly tapering

320 THE GARDENER. [July

towards the point ; they are arranged in two rows, springing from the
bulb, and are about 2 feet long. The flowers are borne in umbels of
from ten to twenty blossoms on a stout stem, which rises from the
centre of the leaves to about the same height. Each flower is about
2 inches across the mouth, of a deep orange colour, somewhat shaded
with vermilion. The plant may be either grown from seed or in-
creased by division of the roots : the latter method is that generally
adopted, and is the best where it is desired to keep the variety pure ;
as, like most other plants, they have a tendency to vary when grown
from seed. Good strong bulbs, planted singly in 5- or 6-inch pots, make
most desirable plants for house or table work, or for vases, for which
it is admirably adapted; and of course, if specimen plants are desired,
a number should be arranged in large pots, suiting the number to
the size of pot. They are robust, strong-rooting plants, and there-
fore require good strong soil, and plenty of water during their grow-
ing season. Good fibry loam, with a sprinkling of sharp sand, and
some old cow-manure incorporated with it, will suit them well ; or a
compost consisting of equal parts of loam and peat, with a handful
of bone-meal and a due proportion of sand, will suit them equally
well. In wintering them they should be kept as nearly as possible in
a temperature of from 45° to 50°.

THE BLANDFORDIA.

The Blandf ordia constitutes another genus of greenhouse plants which
have gone out of fashion and become neglected, and yet there is hardly
any more showy plant in cultivation, or one that will better repay the
very little care that is required to grow it. We are glad to see, how-
ever, that the taste for this kind of plant is again reviving, so that one
does occasionally come across a plant or two of it. The Blandfordias
are all natives of the Australian continent, and were so named in honour
of the Marquis of Blandford. They are all bulbs, and require much
about the same kind of treatment as that given to Amaryllis. They
shed their leaves in the autumn, and can then be stored away under
the greenhouse stage, or other suitable place, for the winter. They are
increased by offsets, or can be raised from seed. The soil suitable for
growing them consists of loam, peat, and sand in due proportions.
The best time to repot them is immediately after they have done
flowering, and they should be watered sparingly until they take pos-
session of the fresh soil. Ordinary greenhouse temperature suits them
very well, unless when they are beginning to push out fresh growth,
when a slight increase of both heat and moisture will be to their ad-
vantage. When in full growth they require a good supply of water ;
the pots should therefore be well drained, so that the surplus water
may easily run off.

There are several varieties of the Blandfordia, but B. Cunninghamii,
B. flammea, B, grandiflora, and B. nobilis are about the best among

i88i.] EFFECTS OF LAST WINTER'S FROST. 327

them, yet they are all well worthy of being added to the most choice
collection of greenhouse plants. They are grand objects when in flower
for the decoration of entrance-halls, staircases, and conservatories ; the
intense brightness of their flowers, being bright scarlet margined with
yellow, enliven and light up any arrangement of plants with which
they may be associated. J. G., W.

EFFECTS OF LAST WINTER'S FROST ON EVER-
GREEN SHRUBS.

One of the first questions asked of one another by gardeners wlien
they meet this season is — Are your shrubs much injured by the severe
frost of last winter ] And as a rule the answer is in the affirmative.

The winter of 1880-81 will be long remembered as one in which
great numbers of evergreen shrubs were destroyed by the severity of
the frost, leaving sad blanks, that will take years to make good, in the
shrubbery-borders and pleasure-grounds of many of the gardens of
Great Britain.

Had the summer and autumn of 1880 not been exceedingly favourable
to the maturing of the wood or growth of all kinds of trees and shrubs,
there would have been a still greater number of deaths amongst the
latter to enumerate this season. As it is, however, the number of dead
and injured is large enough, especially amongst a few genera that
are usually placed in the list of choice shrubs. At this place we are
within the influence of the moist breeze that blows from the Irish Sea,
and therefore the average winter temperature is a little higher than
further inland; consequently, some kinds of evergreen aid other shrubs
that barely live out of doors thirty miles east of here, succeeded admir-
ably with us up to last winter. On several occasions, however, during
the past winter, the temperature here was down to zero, and on one
occasion 4° below zero, or 36° of frost, the result being that a few kinds
of shrubs are killed outright, several injured to such a degree that they
are unsightly, and will have to be cut down or removed altogether,
while nearly all kinds have suftered to some extent.

The kinds injured past recovery are Laurustinus, Sweet Bay, and
Arbutus. Of these we had a number that were planted about ten
years ago, and were in a very healthy state when overtaken and van-
quished by the severe cold of last winter. Common Laurels, Aucuba
japonica, and several kinds of hybrid Rhododendrons are much injured.
Many plants of the former that had withstood the rigours of at least
forty previous winters are killed down to within a short distance of the
ground, and at the present time their appearance is not of an orna-
mental kind, and they will have to be removed. Portugal Laurels
have also suffered, but, on the whole, the injury to them is not so great
as in the case of the other plants mentioned.

328 THE GARDENER. [July

It is instructive to note the different effects of a low temperature,
such as we had last winter, on the same kinds of liardy shrubs growing
under different conditions as regards shade and shelter. In the case
of those growing here in sheltered and moderately shaded situations, —
in fact, in situations where, to judge from the luxurious appearance of
the plants, the conditions were favourable to longevity, — they have suf-
fered more from the effects of the frost than those exposed to the full
force of the wind. This is no doubt in consequence of the wood of
the latter being better ripened, through more exposure to the sun and
air, than in the case of those growing in more sheltered and shaded
situations. It is pleasant to see that there are some kinds of choice
evergreen shrubs that have got through the past winter without suffer-
ing any apparent injury from the intense cold that prevailed. Amongst
these the different kinds of Retinospora are conspicuous. These plants
are not very common in our shrubberies as yet, but as they have got
through the late winter almost uninjured, they will in future be planted
in numbers in all places where choice evergreen hardy shrubs are ap-
preciated. Cupressus Lawsonii and Thuja Lobbii are also uninjured,
and both deserve to be planted extensively for their ornamental ap-
pearance. J. Hammond.

ASPARAGUS.

As surely as the seasons revolve in their annual rotation, we have
brought under our notice various observations about how best to grow
Asparagus, and whether it really is a plant that sends its roots deeply
into the soil. Some say it is a very deep-rooting plant, consequently
requiring a deep soil in order to produce the best crops. Having seen
very different ways of preparing the soil for this esteemed vegetable,
and results equally different, I will not here detail these various methods,
but simply make a few remarks founded on my own experience and
observation.

I have seen acres of Asparagus raised from seed sown on a free
loamy soil that had been previously well manured with stable-manure.
If May and June prove moist, the plants get a good start, and make
splendid plants the first season. As to their rooting deeply, I have,
on the other hand, observed that three-fourths of the roots run nearly
horizontally from the stems, and only about a fourth of them go
directly downwards ; and by the end of the first season's growth the
horizontal roots were found in whorls from 18 inches to 2 feet long,
the majority of the plants having formed several crowns ready to start
into growth the following season.

In preparing the permanent beds, it is not necessary to raise them
more than 6 inches above the ordinary level. The depth of artificial
soil that it may be found necessary to add depends entirely on the

i88i.l THE LATE WINTER. 329

nature of the soil, and more especially the subsoil. If it be clayey
and retentive, drainage is of the first importance, and must be effici-
ently performed, or Asparagus will not last long in good condition on
it. If the soil be poor, shallow, and gravelly, it is necessary to success
that the staple be deepened with light loamy soil and manure, or the
crops will be poor indeed. Anything like good crops need not be
looked for unless the staple be at least 18 inches deep ; and if it con-
sists of good loamy soil, and about a fourth of the whole of well-rotted
manure, all the better. The whole should be thoroughly well mixed,
and placed in the beds a few months before planting-time, so that
it subsides gradually. Some plant in single rows, others in beds ;
and, all other things being equal, there is not much difference in the
result. I have seen excellent Asparagus grown in 5-feet beds, having
18-inch paths between. In these beds six lines of plants were planted.
Instead of laying the roots on the surface, and covering with the soil
out of the paths, or artificial soil, I prefer making a little trench for
each line, and letting the roots in rather deeply ; for if a dry time
occurs after planting, they are not so likely to suffer from drought, and
the plants sown throw out fresh roots nearer the surface. If a
mulching of manure can be laid on the surface of the bed, it is a
great help to the young plants ; but if this cannot be afforded, short
grass will act as a conservative of moisture. When they have just
begun to push their buds is the best time to plant, and this is gener-
ally in April. Throughout the summer a good soaking of liquid
manure at intervals will greatly assist them ; and if all goes w^ell, they
will make strong growth and mature good crowns that will the fol-
lowing year produce strong grass which, the third year, will be fit to
cut freely for use. The main points of culture in after years consist
in preventing the tops from being damaged by high winds, and in giv-
ing liberal top-dressings of rich manure, and keeping the beds quite
free from weeds. G, Dawson.

THE LATE WINTER.

There seems some incongruity in writing on such a subject at this
time, but when we see 5^ of frost registered on a morning in June,
as we have this morning (10th), it is rather apt to set us ponder-
ing on all we have experienced during this last winter. A winter last-
ing from the 19th October till the 20th of April — the dates of our first
and last snowstorms — with the thermometer on several occasions dur-
ing that time falling many degrees below zero, we are bound to con-
sider a rather severe and exceptional one.

We were beginning to think we had seen the last of it, and more
especially with such a continuance of extraordinarily hot dry weather
as we have had lately, and had almost considered it as a thing of the

330 THE GARDENER. [July

past, when all at once we have a very forcible reminder that it is not
safe to whistle till we get through the wood, or rather out of it.
Potatoes cut down, a fine lot of French Beans soon to be in flower
rendered useless, Dahlias blackened, and most probably killed, are a
few of the results. I observed some time ago an article in the ' Globe '
anent the late winter, and quoting from the ' Journal of Forestry '
some remarks of a correspondent of that journal, writing from Murthly
Castle, giving accounts of sad havoc there — " the Araucaria imbricata
being frosted down like a Geranium," — the article goes on to say that,
with one or two more such seasons, the " Rhododendron would become
comparatively scarce with us." This I think erroneous, as I have
always hitherto found the Rhododendron one of our hardiest ever-
greens— much more so than any of the Laurels — and would, in making
new shrubberies, give a more decided preference to the Rhododendron.
Here, while we have had Laurels killed down to the ground, that
plant has stood quite uninjured, and at present clumps of it are in
full bloom. But on the whole, has the proverbial oldest inhabitant,
or any man living, any recollection of such a prolonged and severe
winter '? I am inclined to believe not, and that the late Mr M'Nab's
theories in regard to the climatal changes in this country are likely to
be borne out. Robert Stevens.

Paston, Northumberland.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

June 14th.

New plants, Pyrethrum blooms, with several miscellaneous groups of Orchids
and other plants, constituted the chief features of this meeting, and visitors
found sufficient to interest them both in the Council-room and conservatory.

Fruit Committee — Harry Veitch, Esq., in the chair. Exhibits in this
department were not very numerous. Mr R. Gilbert, The Gardens, Burghley,
sent a Melon named Burghley Pet, a green -flesh fruit, of moderate size and
well netted. It was considered by the Committee a very promising variety,
and they expressed a desire to see it again. Fruits of a large Tomato named
Conservative Chief from the same exhibitor were admired, and it was recom-
mended to be tried at Chiswick. Some fine clusters of Gilbert's Criterion
Tomato were also shown, |said to be a seedling from Jackson's Favourite crossed
with Vick's Criterion. The fruits were small but very abundant. Mr Wood-
bridge, The Gardens, Syon House, Brentford, was awarded a cultural com-
mendation for a dish of well-ripened British Queen Strawberries. Mr Z.
Stevens, The Gardens, Trentham, again sent examples of Trentham Early
Fillbasket Tomato, and the Committee confirmed the opinion they previously
expressed concerning it. Messrs T. Rivers & Son, Sawbridgeworth, sent fruits
of an early Cherry named Guigne d'Annonay, which somewhat resembled
Frogmore Early. The tree was said to have been grown in an unheated
orchard-house. It was shown with May Duke for comparison, and a first-

iSSi.] ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 331

class certificate was awarded for it on account of its earliness. Specimens of
Early Favourite Plum were also sent by the same firm from a tree in a pot
which had been placed in a house on March the 27th. A vote of thanks was
accorded. Messrs J. Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, exhibited some extremely large
stems of Stott's Monarch Rhubarb ; and Mr J. F. Wilkinson, gardener to
Viscount Gage, Lewes, sent a seedling Melon. From Chiswick fruits of Noire
Precoce de Strass Cherry were sent, the variety being said to be very prolific.

Floral Committee. — J. M'Intosh, Esq., in the chair. Messrs J. Veitch &
Sons, Chelsea, had a group of new and choice plants of considerable interest,
including the following : A white form of Azalea Souvenir de Prince Albert,
very free and of good habit ; Lilium Krameri, a neat species with pale pink-
tinted flowers ; Heliconia aureo-striata, having neat ovate leaves veined with
yellow; Carnation Lady Musgrave, a handsome variety, bearing large, full,
deep scarlet flowers ; Cypripedium selligerum majus, a remarkably fine variety
with flowers of great size, the upper sepal being particularly broad ; Calantbe
Textori, a pretty species with white flowers, the lip blotched in the centre
with orange-red ; Epidendrum falcatum, a curious Orchid, with white three-
lobed labellum and narrow yellowish sepals and petals ; Hydrangea Mariesi, a
fine form, with large globular heads of lavender-blue flowers ; Pratia angulata,
a hardy plant, also known as Lobelia litoralis, of prostrate habit, with diminu-
tive leaves and abundant white flowers ; Spergula pilifera aurea, a form of
Spurrey with yellow leaves ; several Masdevallias, including M. coccinea and
M. ignea, the latter especially bright ; Cattleya Wagneri, a white-flowered
form, resembling C. Mossise ; C Mossise alba ; and a group of Tuberous
Begonias, chiefly seedlings raised from B. Davisi, very free in flowering, and
including some rich shades of scarlet. B. gigas and B. Mrs Gilbert were two
varieties of the ordinary type, with very large well-formed flowers — the former
orange-scarlet, and the latter of a deeper colour.

A vote of thanks was accorded to Messrs H. Cannell & Son, Swanley, Kent,
for eight stands of double Pyrethrums, comprising forty varieties, including
many of great excellence. Some of the most noteworthy were Lizzie Macfar-
lane, white ; Maximum plenum, bright pink ; Progress, rich crimson ; Mrs Dix,
neat pink ; Rose Marguerite, fine rose ; N, Twardy, full neat flower, rosy
crimson; Wilhelm, good pink; Madame Billiard, neat white ; Anemoniflorum
sanguineum, very bright crimson ; Multiflorum, rosy crimson ; Boule de Neige,
pure white; and Amphitrite, bright rose. Some fine varieties of Foxglove
were also shown.

Messrs John Laing & Co., Forest Hill, had a fine collection of Caladiums
and Tuberous Begonias. The best of the former were candidum, similar in
marking to argyrites, but much larger ; Madame Lemoinier, with broad hand-
some lemon -red in the centre, and pale green round the edge; and Mithridate,
described below. Among the Begonias Mrs Robert Whyte, scarlet, was note-
worthy for the great size of the flowers ; Captain Lambert, similarly large,
but more brilliant in colour ; and Exoniensis, a remarkably handsome variety,
with extraordinarily large orange-scarlet flowers. A stand of blooms was also
contributed of a great variety of colours, from pure white through yellow, buflf,
orange, and scarlet ; some rose tints also being represented. A vote of thanks
was accorded to Mr J. Crouoher, gardener to J. Peacock, Esq., Sudbury
House, Hammersmith, for a plant of Odontoglossum crispum variety deli-
catum, the flowers of good size, white faintly tinged with purple. A plant
of a variety of Cattleya Mossise named aurosum was sent by the same ex-
hibitor. Mr James, The Castle Nursery, Lower Norwood, sent a plant of

332 THE GARDENER. [July

Odontoglossum cordatum aureiim, differing from the type in the yellowish
tint of the flowers. E. G. Loder, Esq., Floore, Weedon, Northamptonshire,
exhibited a similar group of hardy Cacti to that he had at the great Show.
Echinocactus Fendleri and E. gonacanthus were certificated.

Mr C. Green, gardener to Sir G. Macleay, Pendell Court, Bletchingley,
exhibited flowering sprays of the two handsome climbing plants Stigmai)hyl-
Uim ciliatum and Bauhinia corymbosa. The former has umbels of bright
yellow flowers and cordate spiny-margined leaves ; and the latter has corym-
b )8e heads of small pinkish white flowers, the stamens very bright pink, and
the leaves of the characteristic two-lobed form, but very small. A vote of
thanks was accorded for the Stigmaphyllum, and a cultural commendation
for the Bauhinia. M. H. Voss, Esq., De Montfort House, Streatham, exhibited
a plant of Odontoglossum citrosmum Vosii, a pretty form, the petals and
sepals of which are pure white, and the lip of a mauve purple tint. Large
flowers of Phalseuopsis grandiflora were also staged. Mr H. Hooper, Vine
ISursery, Bath, sent a collection of Pyrethrum and Pansy blooms, the latter
including two very striking varieties; a Fancy named Novelty, and a velvety
black show named William Dean. Mr H. Coppin, Shirley, Croydon, sent
several plants of Tuberous Begonias, representing very fine varieties. The
best were Thebais, scarlet, very large ; Pink Pet, pale pink, large rounded
petals ; Snowflake, white, of moderate size, and Cetewayo, of the Pearcei type
with large orange-coloured flowers. Mr C. Kimbeley, Stoke Nursery, near
Coventry, exhibited plants of a bright pink-flowered Pelargonium of the
Christine type, named Empress of India, very free in flowering and of good
habit. A neat tricolor Pelargonium called Empress was also represented.
Mr Wilkinson, gardener to Viscount Gage, Lewes, contributed a collection of
Gloxinia blooms, mostly of the drooping section, diversifled in colours but not
remarkable in size. A vote of thanks was accorded. Mr T. Dale, Orchid -
grower to E. Edwards, Esq., Blackw^ater, sent a plant of Cattleya gigas with
very large flowers, the lip of a very rich crimson tint.

Mr J. Croucher contributed a tasteful group of Orchids, including good ex-
amples of Odontoglossum vexillarium, with very richly coloured flowers ;
Masdevallia Harryana sanguinea has large deeply coloured flowers ; Brassia
verrucosa, with eighty spikes ; and a central plant of Oncidium ampliatum
majus, with a very large spreading panicle of bright yellow flowers. Other
noticeable plants were Lycaste Deppei, with over two dozen flowers, and
Odontoglossum caudatum. A silver Flora medal was awarded. Mr Ebbage,
gardener to J. S. Buckett, Esq., The Hall, Stamford Hill, was awarded a
silver gilt Flora medal for a handsome group of Odontoglossum Alexandrse,
comprising some very fine varieties. One spike had ten flowers of unusual
size, and all the plants were in fine healthy condition. Silver Banksian medals
were awarded to the following : Mr James, the Castle Nursery, Norwood, for
a collection of Orchids, including a fine potful of Epidendrum vitellinum, sev-
eral Deudrobes, Odontoglossums, and Oncidiums ; Messrs Barr & Sugden, for
a pretty group of hardy flowers. Irises and Pyrethrums being particularly
numerous and bright ; and Mr Hooper of Bath for several stands of handsome
Pyrethrum, Pansy, and Ranunculus blooms, including a good selection of
varieties.

First-class certificates were awarded for the following plants : —

Carnation Lady Musgrave (Veitch). — A handsome tree variety, with very
large, full, dark scarlet flowers 3^ inches in diameter. Very effective and
free.

i88i.] DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION. 333

Sarracenia melanorhoda (Veitch). — A hybrid between S. Stevensi and S.
purpurea, with leaves 6 to 8 inches long, of a deep reddish colour.

Cyp-iiiediiim selltgerum majus (Veitch). — A variety of this fine species with
very large flowers, the upper sepal being particularly striking owing to its
great breadth and rounded form.

Hydrangea Maricsii (Veitch). — A beautiful Hydrangea with globular heads
of lavender-blue flowers. The colour is very delicate and pleasing, and the
plant appears to be of good habit.

Coleus Miss Simpson. — This and the following were from that successful
raiser Mr King, gardener to G-. Simpson, Esq., Reigate. A very handsome
variety with a large neatly formed leaf, the centre being bright crimson with
a tinge of scarlet, margined with bright yellow, and neatly crenated. The
brightness of this variety was remarkable, and it was greatly admired.

Coleus Mrs StiedaU. — A variety of dwarf compact habit ; the leaves tapering,
bright rose in the centre, deeply crenated, mottled with deep brownish maroon
near the margin, and edged with green. Very distinct and attractive.

Caladiitm candidiim (Laing), — A pretty variety, with neatly formed leaves
7 inches long by 4 inches broad, veined with green and white, suggestive of
C. argyrites, but much larger than that form.

Caladium Mithridate (Lading). — Leaves unusually large, afoot in length and
the same in breadth, deep in the centre and dark green at the edge. A very
handsome variety.

Caladium J. E. Box (Laing), Very distinct, of a semi-transparent texture
strangely veined with red and green. These are three tine and distinct Cal-
adiums well worth including in collections.

Echinocactus rjonaxanthus (Loder). — A Cactaceous plant with short globular
fleshy stems studded with large white spines, and bearing bright orange nearly
scarlet flowers. — Journal of Horticulture.

DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The ordinary monthly meeting of this Association was held in the
Templar Hall, Reform Street, on Friday evening, the 3d ult. — the
president, Mr D. Doig, Rossie Priory Gardens, in the chair. Mr
Thomas Milne, Linlathen Gardens, read a paper on " Hardy Border
Flowers." Having dealt with their general culture and arrangement
in a former paper, he confined his remarks more directly to the special
culture of a few favourite sorts. These he detailed in their order of
flowering ; and his remarks were illustrated by from sixty to seventy
distinct varieties of these delightful hardy flowers, all distinctly and
correctly named, presenting a beautiful and interesting table of varied
blossoms. Amongst the most noticeable of these were Aquilegias
cserulea and siberica, Dodecatheon elegans, Leucojum sestivum. Ane-
mone sylvestris, Phlox subulata, Asphodelus luteus. Primula cortu-
soides amoena, Linum alpinum, Myosotis ccelestina, Anthericum
liliastrum, and Muscaria moschata. Mr Milne also exhibited a stand
of twenty-four varieties of hybrid Rhododendrons. Mr Frank Young

334 THE GARDENER. [July

then read a most interesting and able paper on the " Physiology of
Plants and Animals," tracing many of the relations that exist between
the two kingdoms of nature. The general action of the animal king-
dom in oxidising carbonaceous substances with formation of carbonic
acid gas, and the reducing of this in the green parts of plants under
the influence of sunlight, were experimentally illustrated under this
head. Mr Young spoke at length on the "blue glass" question,
showing that it had no scientific basis whatever ; that, in fact, the
work of many eminent botanists had proved the retarding effect of
the blue rays on growth ; and further, that the yellow rays of light
were the most effective in decomposition and assimilation. The paper
was illustrated by several experiments performed by Mr Frank Collyer.
An interesting discussion followed on this "blue glass" question,
the general conclusion of the practical gardeners present bearing out
what Mr Young had demonstrated — namely, that the blue glass, so far
as had come under their observation, in no way assisted or perfected
the growth of plants. Hearty votes of thanks were awarded the
several speakers, and the meeting terminated.

NOTICE OF BOOK.

A Manual of the Contferj?;. James Veitch k Sons, Royal Exotic
Nursery, King's lioad, Chelsea, London.

This work is quite worthy of the firm who have produced and published it.
Merely to recapitulate the plan of the work will show that, if well carried out —
as it certainly is — it cannot fail to be a popular and most useful work. Part 1
is a general review of the Coniferous orders. It contains a brief description of
Coniferous wood, the organs of fructification and vegetation, the secretions,
economic properties, diseases and accidents, the distribution of the Conifera?
ov^er the globe, and lastly, the scientific arrangement and nomenclature as given
by the most eminent botanists who have studied the order. Part 2 contains
a synopsis of general species and varieties suitable for cultivation in Great
Britain. Part 3 contains lists of the species and varieties suitable for the
different purposes for which Conifers are planted, with hints as to their
treatment. It is abundantly manifest in every page of the book that it has
been executed with the greatest care and a minute knowledge of the subject.
The information is given in a thoroughly handy form. Numerous well-ex-
ecuted woodcuts and illustrations add much to the interest of the volume,
which should be in the hands of all interested either practically or scientifi-
cally in Coniferous trees.

'9-S>^^^S-<-(B

i88i.]

CALENDAR.

335

CtaUn&ar*

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines.— The very bright and really
warm weather experienced during the
latter half of May and the early part of
June, caused Pines in all stages to make
rapid progress, and they have well
made up for the little progress they
made after being shifted, owing to the
coldness of the spring. Should the
weather be as it generally is in July —
sunny by day and warm at night — the
necessity for fire-heat to keep tempera-
tures sufficiently high for Pines will be
almost entirely superseded — in some
localities at least — by the more natural
and invigorating heat of the sun. At
the same time, if a period of dull, wet,
and comparatively cold weather should
occur, careful attention must be given
to the atmosphere of pineries, and the
pipes should be heated so as to keep
the air from becoming stagnant and
the heat from sinking much below the
maximum temperature. Plants in-
tended for fruiting next year will now
be growing rapidly, and require to be
very carefully and rather freely venti-
lated to prevent a weak and sappy
growth. By the end of this month.
Queens intended for fruiting early
next year will be large plants with
their pots well filled with roots, and
will require careful attention in the mat-
ter of watering, so that they do not
get too dry, and remain so for many
days at a time, or they may get a
check that may cause them to start
into fruit. The soil should be kept
constantly moist, and liquid manure
in a weak state applied at every alter-
nate, if not every, time they require
watering. On the afternoons of tine
days these and all growing plants
should be syringed with a fine rose
at shutting -up time, but only moist-
ening the foliage without causing
much water to accumulate and stand
in the axils of the leaves, or the pro-
duction of suckers — in Queens especi-
ally— may be the result, and the ener-
gies of the plants become exhausted
in the wrong direction. The night
temperature may range to 75°, drop-
ping to 70° by morning. It sometimes
becomes necessary, in very scorching
weather, to slightly shade Pines dur-

ing the heat of the day, to prevent their
becoming severely browned and wiry
in growth. In doing this, let some
thin material be used, such as hexagon
netting or tifTany, and avoid the use of
thick mats or canvas. Early started
Queens will now be all cut, and the
suckers they have produced should be
potted into 6 and 7 inch pots, accord-
ing to their size. Pot them in fresh
turfy loam, with a little bone-meal
mixed with it ; plunge them in a
gentle bottom - neat, and give them
plenty of room. Shade them in the
heat of the day until they have rooted
and shown signs of growth, after which
shade as little as possible, and air
freely to produce stocky growth.
Plants swelling off fruit will require
to be constantJy watched to see that
they do not become over -dry : give
them weak guano or ordinary manure
water every time they need watering.
Shut them up sufficiently early in the
afternoons to run the temperature to
95° for a time, and load the atmo-
sphere with moisture by damping ail
bare surfaces and syringing the plants
overhead. Where more fruit are ripe
than are required, a number of them
can be removed to a cool fruit-room,
where they will keep for several weeks
in good condition. Avoid the too
common practice of keeping the soil
very dry when Pines at this season
approach maturity.

Grapes. — The fruit will now be all
cut from the early houses, and no pains
should be spared to keep the foliage
healthy and fresh to the last. Pted-
spider must be prevented by frequent
vigorous syringings, and the Vines
nourished by keeping the borders
moist. Give abundance of air, and do
not allow laterals to grow so as to
crowd the main foliage and wood.
Grapes intended to be kept through
the winter should now be carefully
examined ; and if any of the bunches
have not been thinned sufficiently,
lose no time in completing this opera-
tion before the berries get anything
like jammed. The bunches should be
more severely thinned out than those

336

THE GARDENER.

[July

that are to be used before winter. If
this month should be dry and bright,
all Vines swelling oif croi)s should
be well watered two or three times;
and if the borders are not mulched,
they should be, with good substan-
tial farmyard manure. lied - sjjider
is a most formidable enemy to Vines
in dry summers, and there is per-
haps no better preventive of the
pest than well-watered and well-nour-
ished borders. Next to no lire - heat
will nowb^ required to keep vineries
warm enough ; still, in dull damp
weather, put a little heat into the
pipes so as to keep the air buoyant
and in motion, and do not let Muscats
fall much below 70° at night. And,
except for an hour or so after vineries
are shut up and damped after a hot
day, never close the ventilators by
night or day, but always leave them
open to the extent of 3 or 4 inches at
the front of the house. Remove all
young lateral growths as they appear ;
and if red-spider appears give it no
quarter, but attack it at once with
sponges and clean water, and if pure
water can be had, even syringe the
foliage freely for a few days in suc-
cession. Young Vines not yet in bear-
ing, but intended to bear next year,
should be stopped when they reach to
the top of the house, and their lateral
growth to a couple of leaves at each
joint — one of which should be removed
when the wood begins to turn brown
and harden. Young Vines planted
this spring will now be making rapid
growth. Attend carefully to them
two or three times weekly, and tie
them to the wires, removing all ten-
drils and growth except what is suffi-
cient to cover the roof without crowd-
ing the foliage. It is not yet too late
to plant young Vines if borders and
everything can be got ready by the
middle of the month. A season will
be gained in planting young healthy
Vines now instead of next spring, for
there is plenty of time to have fine
strong canes by the end of October.
If pot- Vines have been forwarded as
directed in former Calendars, they will
now be strong canes with plump buds,
and the bottom part of them changing
to a brownish hue. Give them plenty
of air. Never let them suffer for want
of water, and do not let them make
much lateral growth, but take every
precaution to keep their leaves healthy

to the last ; for unless they ripen thor-
oughly, without damaged foliage, they
cannot be in good condition for early
forcing next season.

Peaches. — Give ripening fruit
abundance of air night and day.
Water the borders of those swelling
off crops, and if they are old trees in
full crop, give liberal supplies of man-
ure-water. Syringe freely and fre-
quently all trees, except, of course,
those on which the fruit is ripe and
ripening. But as soon as the fruit is
all gathered resume the use of the
syringe, so as to keep the foliage clean
and healthy. If red-spider has put in
an appearance, mix a handful of sul-
phur with the water every time they
are syringed. Keep the house cool
and well aired, and examine each tree,
and if there are more shoots than are
necessary for next year's crop, cut them
out at once, so that light and air may
play freely about every part. Attend
to the tying of the growths of young
growing trees — tying them in their
proper place — and avoid crowding.
See that no tree in any stage is allowed
to suffer for want of water.

Figs. — Where fruit are ripening
cease the use of the syringe, and give
a free circulation of air. When the first
crop is all gathered, and the second
coming on, see that the trees are well
nourished with manure - water, and
syringe them freely every day at
shutting-up time. Trees in pots or
tubs must be very carefully attended
to with water, and never be allowed
to get over-dry. Any old mulchings of
manure applied to these early in the
season should be removed down to
the roots, and a fresh dressing of rich
manure put in its place, so that the
second crop of fruit may be well sus-
tained, and the trees in every way
kept in good order.

Melons. — Melon plants now swell-
ing off crops will take much more
water at the root than earlier in the
season, and they must never be al-
lowed to get a check for want of a
proper supply. At the same time
give good soakings when required, so
that the soil be kept properly moist
without frequent dribblets. Keep the
surface of the soil covered with such as
horse-droppings to nourish the crop

liSbi.

CALENDAR.

337

and prevent more frequent waterings.
A final watering should be given before
the fruit begins to colour, so that the
soil does not become over dry before
the fruits are all cut, Remove all
superfluous growth, and syringe the
foliage every fine afternoon up to the
time the fruit begins to ripen, after
which keep it dry, and expose the
fruit as much as possible to the sun.
Attend to the impregnation of succes-
sion crops, and plant and sow for late
crops.

Cucumbers.— Water those in full
bearing with manure-water. Look
over them twice a- week, and remove
all supeifluous growths, and keep
youni^ growths constantly stopped.
Syringe freely on fine afternoons. Do
not allow the plants to bear too many
Cucumbers at one time, or the plants

will suffer. Impregnate some of the
most handsome -looking young fruits
for producing seed.

Strawberries in Pots.— Plants in-
tended for early forcing should be in
their fruiting-pots the first week of
this month. For the earliest lot 5-
inch pots are large enough, but for the
general stock of plants G-inch pots are
the best and most convenient size.
The soil used should be a rather strong
loam, with a third of such as old mush-
room-bed manure mixed with it. Pot
the plants firmly. Place them in a
sunny exposure, and on some mate-
rial that will prevent worms from
getting into the pots. Water freely,
and keep them free from runners.
Syringe the foliage about five o'clock
in the afternoon when the weather is
warm and dry.

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

The weather during the latter part of
May being very warm and dry, gave
many crops in vegetable gardens an
appearance of distress. Slight showers
have fallen at the end of the month
and refreshed various things ; but
with us no roots eight inches in the
soil have had rain since the first
week of March, and the ground now
turns up hard and dry at the middle of
June. Though water and hydrants are
at hand, we have not had time to use
moisture sufficient to give a thorough
soaking. We always advise leaving it
alone if it cannot be done effectually.
We know of much damage done already
by the inexperienced, by dribbling
surfaces frequently, while the feeders
were almost roasted. Potatoes are
well up and looking well. Onions,
Parsnij^s, and Beet, among roots, are
fair. Turnips and Radishes, among
Potatoes and other crops, are not amiss.
Spinach, between Potatoes, is extra
good. On very heavy land, the seed
covered with rich and fine soil and
afterwards dusted with fine ashes, has
been well protected. Lettuce between
Pea rows 10 feet apart, and the ground
extra rich, have been unusually fine.
Carrots are very shabby, and many
blanks among them. Cauliflowers
have been difiBcult to deal with. Celery
has been troublesome. Mulching with
grass-mowings and soakings of water
are telling well on the plants.

No time need be lost in planting out
Broccoli, Kale, Brussels Sprouts, Sa-
voys, and all the Brassica in the
seed-list. If the ground has to be
cleared of Potato crops, &c,, it is well
to have the plants safe on any spare
ground, so that they may lift easily
and be transplanted firmly in their
permanent quarters. Cabbage may be
sown in late northern quarters — from
the middle to the end of the month is
early enough ; further south, a good
plantation tor autumn may be planted
out any time during the month. The
Eosette Colewort is always a favourite,
and very hardy. Celery for early
crops should be well earthed up and
have liberal soakings of water. Man-
ure - water will give crisp and ten-
der produce. Prick out latest suc-
cessions on firmly-beaten and well-
rotted manure, with two or three inches
of soil over the surface. Shade the
seedlings from strong sun : red kinds
are generally the most hardy, and the
flavour is considered by many to be
the best. Carrots of the "Horn"
class may be sown for drawdng young.
Endive and Lettuce may now be sown
for main crops. Plenty of Batavian
Endive is of much service. Sow
every fortnight in breadths equal to
the demand. These require deep,
rich, and well-broken soil to have them
fine. Sow Lettuce which are known
to be favourites : some prefer Cabbage

338

THE GARDENER.

[July i88i.

kinds to Cos, hut it is well to plant a
few of each to meet all tastes. Mustard
and Cress of sorts must be sown often
on well-moistened ground ; if in the
shade, so much the better. Peas may
be sown in early sheltered positions.
Early kinds are most suitable, but sel-
dom in cold districts are Peas to be had
sown later than June. Dwarf kinds,
to be covered by frames and protectors,
may be sown on early borders during
the month. Dwarf French Beans may
also be treated in this way, but in
warm southern districts we have seen
them come in useful after being sown
in August. Plant Leeks in rich, deeply
dug soil. Sow Parsley for winter ; thin
earlier lots and plant the thinnings.

Turnips, such as White Stone, Strap
Leaf, and American Ked Stone, maybe
sown in larger breadths — after Potatoes
is suitable. Si)inach may be sown
twice during the month in larger
breadths. Prickly Spinach may be
sown for early winter su[)ply at the
end of the month. Cleanliness, mulch-
ing, watering, hoeing, and pronging,
are matters of great moment at this
season. Gherkins, Ridge Cucumbers,
and Vegetable ]\Iarrows need train-
ing, thinning, and watering often.
Crowding is ruinous to them all.
Tomatoes require frequent attention to
thinning off lateral growths, and keep-
ing the fruit thinned. M. T.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in the ' Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of tbe month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We
decline noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and
address of writer.

A CoRRESPOXDENT writing from Chester, whose signature we cannot read. —
Your trees are no doubt affected with mildew. Dust the white spots with
flowers of sulphur, and keep your house well aired. Both a want and an excess
of water at the root are favourable to mildew. So keep the soil moist but
not sodden, and see that the drainage is good.

Amateur. — Both soot and wood-asbes, if applied before they get wet or
damp, are excellent for dressing your Vine-border. The former supplies am-
monia, and the wood-ashes potash. Use the soot first, and in a week or two
the ashes, forking them into the surface of the border.

p. -p. — Stop your Vines when they get to the top of the house, and let the
laterals grow till they cover the roof without becoming crowded. The cause
of the leaves on the main stem or growth going off as you describe, is
the rapid swelling of the cane or growth, which ruptures the base of the leaf-
stalk at its union with the cane, and it then ceases to get sap enough, and
consequently cannot stand the sun. It is not a disease, but purely a mechan-
ical occurrence.

D. M'C. — Your Celosias are affected with an insect — a small spider: syringe
regularly with water in which about the size of an egg of soft-soap is dissolved
in 4 gallons.

THE

GARDENER.

AUGUST 1881,

FEEDING VIITES, &c.

ANY years ago the practice of mixing considerable pro-
portions of manure in the form of animal excrement, and
in some cases animals themselves, into Vine-borders, was
very common, and recommended as the right thing to do ;
but it proved, especially when carried to anything like
excess, most unsatisfactory in its results. By such liberal proportions
of rank manure no doubt a strong growth was attained ; but it was
of such a plethoric kind, that the agents necessary for perfecting
and consolidating it could not be commanded, and disappointment in
the character of the Grapes followed as a necessary consequence. The
Vines were certainly not starved, but were, for a time at least, overfed.
It is not now considered right or necessary to mix in such manures with
the soil used for making up Vine-borders ; and though this change must
be considered sounder both in theory and practice, there is a danger that
Vines may suffer from the opposite extreme of being ultimately starved.
It is because we are satisfied that many Vines are suffering from want
of feeding that we refer to the matter. In the fresh organic matter
common to turf from old pastures, of which Vine-borders are generally
composed, there are for several years all the elements of nutrition needed
to produce strong enough Vines and good Grapes. But notwithstand
ing the mixing in of the orthodox proportion of bones and sometimes
horn-shavings, in the course of years, and especially after the border is
completed in width and when the Vines are in bearing from bottom
to top, something additional and very substantial is required, in the
case of such borders, to enable the Vines year after year to bear the
strain of heavy crops of good Grapes, and at the same time not decline

z

340 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

in vigour of wood and foliage. With a well-drained border composed
of loam and a proportion of crushed bones, we consider this question
of proper and sufficient feeding to be one of the cardinal points of
successful Grape-growing. It is only necessary to look at the spread
of foliage and the weight of luscious fruit on the roof of a vinery,
where the Vines are in good order, to suggest to the merest tyro in
horticulture that plenty of raw material must be supplied before such
a crop can be produced year after year without breaking down the
plants.

There are, of course, several ways of supplying the necessary food to
A^'ine-roots in such borders. Where the sap which oozes or flows from
farmyard manure can be had, it can be supplied with very good effect
in a liquid form ; but it is not desirable, in feeding Vines, to hold con-
stantly to the application of one sort of manure. The system we
practise is, to fork in a good dressing of fine bone-meal as near to the
roots as possible without injuring them, and then to cover the border
with 4 inches of the richest manure we can get, and which generally
consists of horse, cow, and pig droppings in a fresh condition. This
forking in of bone-meal, and this covering of manure, are generally
applied in November : the manure is allowed to remain undisturbed
until about the time the Grapes are just thinned, and it is removed
without interfering with the surface of the border, or taking away any
of the bone-meal, and a similar fresh coating of the same sort of manure
is again put in — thus making two such dressings in the twelve months.
If the weather be dry w^hen the summer dressing is applied, a
thorough soaking of water is given. Besides this, a sprinkling of
guano is sometimes applied in time of heavy rain; so that the nature
of the food supplied is somewhat varied. Sometimes we have given
a dressing of dry fresh soot once in the season ; and we think this
latter an excellent manure for imparting colour and texture to the
foliage.

This may perhaps be considered excessive feeding, but there was
no manure except crushed bones put into the borders when made.
Besides the actual nourishment such top-dressings afford to the Vines,
another most desirable and beneficial result is that the roots are
enticed to the surface of the borders, and kept active there.

There are a few cardinal points in Grape-growing which, if attended
to, all others are of minor importance. First, never to mix much
manure with the border, but to dress liberally on the top as above
described ; to have the most perfect drainage, and give plenty of
water in dry seasons and localities ; never to have the rods closer
together than 3| feet, nor the spurs closer than 18 or 20 inches;
to avoid an over-moist atmosphere, and to give plenty of air night
and day ; and last, but not least, to avoid high night-temperatures,
especially in the early part of the season. If these points are care-
fully attended to, there is no more grateful fruit-bearing plant than

i88i.] GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 341

the Vine ; and it is astonishing what heavy crops it will produce for
years, always provided the nourishment is good, and the foliage kept
in health. In our practice we have never been able to corroborate
the teaching of those who advocate a low temperature as being best
for setting such varieties as Muscat of Alexandria, and others of
a similar habit, for we have invariably found these set best with a
brisk, indeed a high, temperature ; and we have seen Muscats that
have been worked low at the blooming period which were not set at
all — stoneless or seedless, in fact. Hence they swelled more evenly
than when partially set — as it is called ; and when bunches have all
their berries stoneless, it is wonderful to what a size they swell.

GIlEEK"HOUSE PLAISTTS.

NO. VI. THE BOEONIA.

All the species of this genus in cultivation are evergreen shrubs of
dwarf growth. Their time of flowering in this country extends from
the beginning of March until the end of June. The majority of them
are of a slender habit of growth, and to form them into neat compact
specimens a certain amount of staking and training is necessary.
When properly managed, Boronias are beautiful and interesting plants
at all seasons of the year, and when in bloom they are effective
for the decoration of the greenhouse or conservatory. B. pinnata,
B. Drummondii, and B. serrulata, are splendid subjects when large
enough for exhibition purposes, as they will stand a considerable
amount of rough usage, without injury to the flowers at the time, or
to the health of the plants afterwards.

All the species commence flowering when the plants are com-
paratively small, hence, of whatever size they are, they reward the
cultivator with a crop of flowers proportioned thereto. Small
plants, when in flower, are suitable for taking part in floral decor-
ations in the dwelling-house, and they will suffer as little injury
from being exposed to the dry atmosphere that necessarily prevails
in rooms of the dwelling-house, as any hard-wooded plants with
which I am acquainted ; and this alone should secure for them the
attention of those whose duty it is to provide a supply of varied and
choice flowering plants for the purpose named. Boronias are in-
creased by cuttings, but, like a few genera of which I have treated
in former papers, it requires a few years before they get to a
size to be of much service as decorative subjects. It is therefore
the better way to procure a stock of small plants from a nursery-
man ; remembering to stipulate when giving the order, that the
plants are to be free from scale and mealy-bug — as it is not an
unfrequent occurrence for some nurserymen to supply gratis, along
with certain species of the vegetable kingdom, a host of representa-

342 THE GARDP:NER. [Aug.

tives of some families belonging to the animal kingdom, — the latter, as
a rule, being in a highly satisfactory condition as regards their health
and power of reproducing their kind, whatever may be the condition
of the former. Boronias should have an airy position as near to the
glass as possible at all times of the year. When bright sunshine
occurs during the summer months they should be slightly shaded,
but continued shade at any season is not beneficial to them.

As soon as the flowering season is over, the necessary ])runing or
cutting-back of the plants should take place. Those species of a habit
of growth similar to that of B. Drummondii should be cut well back
annually. By so doing the plants are kept well furnished with shoots,
thereby giving to them a bushy and well-formed appearance. In the
case of B. serrulata, it is sufficient to pinch out the points of the shoots
annually, after the flowering season is over. This species does not
make as long shoots annually as most of the others ; hence it is only
necessary to nip out the points of its shoots until such time as the
plants are of the desired size — then of course it should be treated simi-
larly to the others in the matter of pruning or cutting back of its
annual growths. After the plants have been pruned they should be
placed on their side, and well washed by means of a syringe. If at the
time the cultivator entertains any suspicion that there is scale or
mealy-bug lurking about them, he should use at first paraffin and
water, in the proportion of two wine-glassfulls of the former to one
gallon of the latter, heated to a temperature of 95°, and kept thor-
oughly mixed together during the time of application. Let the mix-
ture remain for a few minutes on the plants, and then give them
a thorough syringing with pure water. This will clear them of the
paraffin and the greater number of insects, supposing any of the
latter were present on them previous to the application. After
undergoing cleaning in the way just referred to, the plants should
be placed near to the glass in a cold pit or frame, and duly attended
to in the matter of admitting air and supplying them with water at
the roots. In this position they will soon commence to push forth
fresh growth ; and whenever this is observed they should, if in the
cultivator's opinion they recxuire it, be re-potted. When doing this
much care ought to be taken, as, like all hard-wooded plants, Boronias
will not thrive satisfactorily unless the soil about their roots is main-
tained in a thoroughly sweet condition ; hence it is highly important
to supply an adequate amount of efficient drainage at first. After the
plants are repotted, they should be again placed in a cold frame or pit,
and the latter kept rather close and shaded for a week or two, until
the roots have laid hold of the fresh soil. They should remain in
this position up to the end of September, and during the time air
should be admitted freely to them both day and night. By the first
week of October they should be placed in their winter quarters,
and, as before indicated, in a position as near to the glass as

iSSi.] THE ROSE-HOUSE AND POT-ROSES. 343

circumstances will permit. Large plants of Boronias will remain
healthy for several years without repotting, provided the drainage
keep in good working order, and they are properly attended to in
other ways. Good peat, such as a Heath-grower would select for his
favourites, and coarse river-sand, in the proportion of one-third in bulk
of the latter to two-thirds of the former, make a good mixture for
applying to the roots of Boronias ; and on all occasions when they
are repotted, the compost should be made as firm as possible about
the roots. In the matter of applying water to the roots, the cul-
tivator should exercise much care at all seasons, as an excess is very
prejudicial to their health ; and on the other hand, the soil must not
be allowed at any time to become what might be termed dry. Another
matter to be attended to in their culture is to keep them clear of mil-
dew. Some species, particularly B. serrulata, are subject to attacks of
mildew, and a strict watch should be kept for its appearance. If at
any time it is discovered on the plants, they should be laid on
their sides and dusted with flower of sulphur, which will have the
effect of arresting the further progress of the enemy. In addition
to the three species already named, B. crenulata and B. megastigma
are deserving of being cultivated by all lovers of choice greenhouse
plants. The latter, when in good health, is an elegant and graceful
plant when not in flower; and when in bloom it is surpassed by few
in the quiet beauty of its flowers. J. Hammond.

THE ROSE -HOUSE AND POT-HOSES.

^Iany are apt to overlook and neglect both Ptoses in pots and those
that are planted permanently in the Rose-house during the season
when they can be gathered in abundance outside. I have seen Roses
in pots that have done duty and bloomed, much neglected even when
the thought that outside Roses would be an uncertainty, or a fear enter-
tained by the majority that outsiders would be severely injured, if
not killed outright. Even when this state of things has been upper-
most in the minds of those most interested, Rose plants after blooming
have been carelessly treated and cast aside — either forgotten or left
to chance until wanted for forcing again, and have then proved almost
if not quite a failure. One would naturally think, when the outside
supply is likely to be somewhat limited, that greater care would have
been bestowed upon those in pots, which, if properly treated, would have
made a supply certain. There are those who have Rose-houses and
require them for early work, but keep them slowly moving for the
few flowers they produce ; and then, instead of treating them properly,
to force upon them a good rest, are what they call partially pruned back
and allowed to go on again. These, as I have before stated, soon
become a prey to mildew, and look unsightly. This system will not

311 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

grow Roses long, and in the end (to say nothing of the annoyance it
causes those who cultivate them) will prove not only more laborious than
wise and judicious treatment, but will also lessen the chances of pro-
ducing creditable blooms. The Rose-house that has to produce
Roses from the New Year onwards must now be in the autumn of
its growth, to be followed shortly with as complete a rest as it is
possible to force upon Tea kinds grown under glass. They have a
great inclination to continue to grow, whatever system may be followed
to bring them completely to rest. This can only be accomplished by
giving full ventilation day and night, with the doors standing wide
open. The atmosphere should be kept dry, as well as the soil about
their roots ; but not overdone, or injury to the roots will be the
result, as Roses should not suffer for want of water during any
season of their growth. The cold nights towards the end of Septem-
ber, when full air is left on, act wonderfully in bringing them com-
pletely to rest — an essential point in their cultivation. The flower-
buds in the Rose-house should be removed as soon as they appear
after the beginning or middle of July. By allowing blooms to grow
and develop until pruning-time, the plants are considerably injured
for the following season. Opinions appear to differ on this point,
and some contend that the production of blooms does not exhaust or
impede growth. I am., however, convinced that it does, and more
especially with such varieties as are suitable for the bed in the Rose-
house proper, being continuous bloomers, and differing much in this
respect from such kinds as Gloire de Dijon, that flower prof usely in the
early season, and then devote the remainder of the season to growth
and recruiting themselves ; and during the growing period only pro-
duce, comparatively speaking, a few solitary blooms. The mistake
that often arises in gathering blooms from the Rose-house until a late
date is a lack of forethought, when the outside supply is growing
scarce. A good number should be grown in pots for an autumn
supply. La France for this purpose is really a gem, and, like many
Tea kinds, continues to bloom as long as required. I have some plants
at the present time that have been flowering over six months, and would
doubtless, if allowed, go on for three or four months longer. Some
of the varieties of Bennett's Hybrid Teas will, from my experience,
prove valuable for pot-culture, although I do not think any of them
can compare for usefulness in every respect to that beautiful variety
just referred to. A box of blooms in the exhibition tent scarcely
appears complete without a bloom of La France, which is always
conspicuous. It is questionable if ever Bennett's varieties become so
popular in this respect, and will by many be condemned as useless.
Cultivators generally are very liable to rush to hasty conclusions at
the non-appearance of kinds in the exhibition tent, and upon these
grounds exclude them as poor and worthless. Their merits as exhibi-
tion blooms are not sufficient to indicate their usefulness. What would

i88i.] THE ROSE-HOUSE AND POT-ROSES. 345

exhibitors of Rose-blooms say to Safrano, Isabella Sprunt, or the old
China Roses 1 yet they are all lovely in the bud, and their adaptability
for flowering profusely in the winter secures for them a foremost
place. On the same standard should the Hybrid Teas be judged, and
amongst them Nancy Lee should hold a prominent position. It grows
well on its own roots, strikes as freely as the La France, and blooms
when quite small, continuing to do so for a long time. Yicomtesse
Falmouth is also useful, flowering well in a small state, and is well
adapted for decoration in 5-inch pots : it grows strong enough for
this purpose on its own ^oots. Hon. Geo. Bancroft is useful for the
same purpose. Beauty of Stapleford is a stronger grower than the
preceding two, and a most abundant bloomer. Duchess of Con-
naught and Pearl are also very good and useful. The two first
named, so far, have distinguished themselves best with me.

To return to the Rose-house, in which, at this season of the year, we
allow the growths to ramble at will for the sake of looking tidy and neat,
growers generally tie them closely to the trellis. This should not be
done in the latter stages of growth, as by so doing the shoots that have
been previously made are induced to break again and form wood
which will neither be of service nor ripen, thus prolonging the growing
season of the plants. Our plants are tied down for the sake of appear-
ance, while the family is here for a short time in July, which is not
sufiiciently long to cause them to break ; the ties are then cut and the
shoots set at liberty. By allowing them an upright growth soft wood
is prevented in autumn, and light and air play more freely amongst
the shoots. By the end of the present month, or early in September,
if growth shows signs of ceasing, we remove all the soft-growing ends,
which further induces them to rest. Care must be exercised in this
direction, and the grower must be perfectly satisfied that they will
not again break into growth. This year our bed of Roses has grown
remarkably strong and bloomed abundantly. Through the severe
weather in winter they did not fail to give us a good supply of buds,
especially from Safrano and Isabella Sprunt. The scarlet variety
of the former is very free, and will no doubt prove invaluable, but we
cannot yet say how it will stand mid-winter forcing. Our Rose-bed
will be pruned early in October ; and in doing this operation a good
many weak shoots are removed and the strong ones well shortened
back. Hitherto they have been pruned rather hard back, and the
result has been very satisfactory. After pruning, the house should be
thoroughly cleaned, and a small portion of the top soil of the bed
removed, replacing it with good rich loam, a quantity of small bones,
and wood-ashes.

Roses in pots for the autumn supply should now be growing freely,
plunged outside. They should be liberally supplied with manure-
water to keep them growing, removing the buds as they appear until
the end of the month. After this they can be allowed to form, and

3iG THE GARDENER. [Aug.

should be takeu indoors before being checked with the cold. They
should occupy a position not far from tlie glass, where a temperature
of 50^ to 55^ at night can be maintained. If properly managed, these
plants will produce a good quantity of bloom from the end of October
until Christmas. The China J loses can be placed for a time either in
cold frames or in a house, and introduced into heat a little later in the
season.

Hybrid Perpetuals in pots will also require attention at once. If
properly treated after flowering by hardening off and plunging outside,
well watered, and the foliage kept clean by means of syringing up to
this date, the earliest batch Avill be ready for potting — in fact, all but
the latest batches can be gone through. As a rule, we turn all out to
see if the drainage is right; and if potting is not needed, they are top-
dressed with some rich compost. The majority require potting either
into larger pots, or by considerably reducing the old bulb with as
little injury to the roots as possible, placing them again in pots of the
same size, with a good quantity of new compost. When potting is
done early, while the foliage is fresh and good, large (luantities of roots
are afterwards formed, and the plants become well established again
before pruning -time arrives — the roots frequently abounding in
<j[uantity round the sides of the pots when attended to in due time.

Wm. Bardney.

WINTER SALADS.

In most gardens, large and small, there is abundance of salad material
during the summer and autumn months, which is much valued by the
owners ; but the same cannot be said about quantity in all gardens
throughout the winter and spring months. Then, in many instances,
all kinds of both choice and common salad plants are very scarce,
and often not obtainable. I do not mean to say this is always the
growers fault, as we do not belong to that unreasonable class who
expect gardeners to keep up a constant supply of everything whether
they have the means or appliances or not ; but by a little forethought,
probably, more might be done in winter salads than we often see.
There are many salad plants easily enough grown, others much more
difficult, and only suited for those with the very best of accommoda-
tion ; but what with one thing and another, nearly every garden might
have a variety of salading in the winter time ; and although many
might think productions of the kind are most valuable during the hot
weather in summer, they will generally be found as acceptable in the
short days as at any other time. Cucumbers may be regarded as the
worst to obtain of all winter salads, and they are about the most
valued. Their winter culture does not differ much, if any, from that
necessary to grow them well in summer ; but the want of sufficient

iSSi.] WINTER SALADS. 317

heat ill winter is the one great obstacle to their general culture at that
season. Unless one can find a place for them Avhere the bottom-
heat will never be lower than 80°, and the atmospheric temperature
65° or 70°, their culture need not be attempted, as an unsatisfactory-
crop or complete failure will be the result. With less heat than that
above stated we have managed to keep them on until Christmas, but
never for a whole winter. Where convenient means exist for their
growth, the present is a good time to consider the matter. Next to
having plenty of heat, strong plants well-established before wdnter
sets in is the most important. These may be raised from seed
sown in August, or plants may be had from cuttings. Of the two we
prefer the latter ; but in either case the young plants should be ready
for their permanent quarters early in September. In summer, Cu-
cumbers will grow in almost any kind of compost, but for winter, it
must be rather light and open. The more fibre in it the better, and
in putting it down it should be made into well-elevated mounds. If
planted early in September, growth will not be so rapid as at mid-
summer, but by the middle of October they will be strong plants,
showing fruit ; and if the foliage is kept clean, the roots consistently
watered, and only a very few fruit allowed to swell at once. Cucum-
bers all winter may be depended on. For this. Telegraph is a
variety we have never seen equalled.

Coming to more common and easier-grown things from the kitchen-
garden, much salading may be had far into the winter, and sometimes
right through it. Amongst these. Lettuce and Endive are always im-
portant. The two may be grown fairly well on almost any piece of soil.
In summer, rich ground adds to their quality ; but for autumn and
winter, I think rather poor soil is best. In very rich soil they make
much soft growth which cold and wet would soon cause to decay,
but when grown more hardy, this does not so readily occur. Our
winter Lettuce and Endive are generally planted on our south and
other borders, after Potatoes, Cauliflowers, Carrots, Turnips, ifcc, and
before sowing or planting w^e never put any additional manure after
these crops. Neither do we dig or fork the ground, as firm ground
is not so likely to cause w^atery growth. A hoe and rake over is all
the preparation the ground gets. Of all positions we prefer a south
border with a sharp incline for winter Lettuce. Here they always
grow hardy and robust, and are not so liable to injury from the
Aveather as in shaded corners. The seed of autumn and winter Lettuce
should be sown at once, and another sov/ing in mild parts may take
place a few weeks hence. Sutton's Champion Brown, Hardy Brown
Cos, and the green Hammersmith are the best winter Lettuce, and the
Batavian and green curled are excellent Endives. The seed may be
sown in lines a foot or more apart, and when the plants are large
enough to transplant, a crop may be left in the seed-row^s and the
others replanted elsewhere. In frames, and under other kinds of pro-

3^8 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

tectors, are good places to put the plants which are drawn out. In
such positions they may be planted without being protected from the
first ; but here they will be convenient when severe weather does
come.

Along the bottom of walls are also good places for Lettuce, as
they can easily be protected there. As a rule, Lettuce and Endive
seed germinates very freely, and the young plants are frequently much
injured through becoming too close in the rows before being thinned
out or transplanted. This is a bad beginning for any Lettuce crop,
but it is most felt by the winter ones, as they hardly ever quite recover
from such a check. Sowing thin, and thinning in time, are two good
ways of working. The after-culture consists chiefly in keeping the
ground clean and open with the hoe, blanching and protecting in
severe weather. When Lettuce are backward in folding in and
blanching, they can soon be made to do this by tying up the leaves ;
and Endive must always be treated in this way. They should only be
tied when quite dry, otherwise they soon decay. Protecting may be
done in various ways. The safest is to lift the plants and place them
in some dry, cool, dark shed. A month's supply or more may sometimes
be treated like this, and others may be lifted and packed close together
in frames where lights will keep them from wet, and where they can
be opened up on fine days. Full-grown plants, if lifted in this way
and so treated, will prove most satisfactory ; and it is astonishing the
time they remain good when kept from frost and wet. Nailing two
deal boards together in the shape of a V, and turning this over the
rows, also affords good protection, and so does turning a flower-pot
upside down over each plant ; but about mid-winter, or in long spells
of severe weather, they are most secure in frames or houses.

Radishes are another useful addition to our wirter salads. They are
very easily grown, and may often be had when other things have failed ;
and as they are generally eaten by themselves, they are very valuable
for filling up gaps. The Chinese Rose is the best of all Radish for
winter culture. The first sowing of it should be made early in Sep-
tember and again in October. The first may be in the open, the
second in a frame under glass. The soil for both should be moderately
rich, and not too heavy, and the position well exposed to the sun and
light. Ours are always sown thinly broadcast, protected from severe
frost, and fair gatherings are had from them all winter.

Beetroot is another excellent salad root, and it is so easily kept in
winter that nothing need be said about that here. Celery, too, comes
under this heading, and is equally well known. Mustard and Cress
are others requiring winter culture. Heat and moisture will produce
them anywhere or at any time. Small quantities may be grown in
plates or saucers, more in cutting or seed boxes, and any quantity in
beds in early vineries or suchlike. In November, when our first
Asparagus roots are put in for forcing, we sow Mustard and Cress all

i8Si.] THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 349

over the surface, and it does well here without interfering with the
crop, as the heads push up through it. Odd corners are the positions
for Mustard and Cress.

Autumn -sown Onions are another good addition to our winter
salads. As sown for the following year's culture, they are often too
late to use in winter ; but if a good bed of Giant Rocco is sown early
in August, the produce will become a nice size for drawing throughout
the whole winter.

Witloef, about which there has been much said in favour of its
winter salad qualities, does not differ materially with us from the
common Chicory. Those who grow the one need not have the other;
but one or the other should be grown by all who have salad to provide
in winter, as they are most useful for this purpose. As I stated some
little time ago in the ' Gardener,^ Chicory-seed should have been sown
before now ; but if put in at once, small roots would soon be produced
that would give much useful salading in winter. The natural leaves
die away in severe weather, and the roots may then be lifted and
potted in clusters if placed in boxes, and set in any warm corner in
mushroom-house, cellar, or other structure, when beautiful tender Let-
tuce-like leaves will sprout out and prove excellent for any kind of salad.
Generally speaking, it will be found more satisfactory to have a suc-
cession of different things coming in in small quantities throughout
the whole of the winter, than to have a large quantity of anything or
everything in at one time, and nothing for long afterwards. In
winter, everything should be drawn together as much as possible, and
very small quantities of anything thoroughly well grown are more
pleasing than an expensive quantity grown extensively and of an
inferior description. J, Mtjik.

THE FLOWER - GAE:DE:^T.

Geraniums. — No time is better for putting in Geranium cuttings to
strike root than from the first up to the third week of the present
month. It is not always convenient to get them in just at this period,
but it is worth a little extra trouble trying to do so. Cuttings put in
now strike root quickly, and are well rooted long before the winter sets
in — one of the greatest helps in wintering these plants cheaply and suc-
cessfully. In order to save the bloom in the beds as far as possible, it
is best to cut always above an open flower- truss ; and as Geraniums
strike better for being cut under a leaf-joint, this is also done at the
time the cuttings are taken. In seasons like those we have lately
experienced, it will be found advantageous to allow them to lie
in a cool shed, that the extra sap may be dispelled somewhat before
planting them into boxes. Twenty-four hours is long enough to
let them lie thus. Then as to their size, I confess I like big ones. I
have seen several lots of plants this season which were not so large,

350 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

after Laving been a few weeks in their flow^ering quarters, as our
cuttings were last autumn when taken off the parent plants. I
know there is want of room pleaded in such cases, but one large
plant will go as far, and be much more effective than four small ones,
as it takes the latter several weeks before they attain to a flowering
size ; whereas large plants, on the other hand, are effective at once.
Another point worth paying attention to in taking cuttings from the
plants in beds is this : in removing tlie points of shoots in a haphazard
manner from the plants, you not only saddle yourself with a lot of
small plants which are difficult to winter, and which take a long time
to grow to a decorative size after being planted, but you also to a
certain extent damage the plants materially, if you look for a con-
tinued and late bloom. By selecting large cuttings, and in the
process giving your plants a judicious thinning, you allow the plants
room for the development of a thin crop of shoots, which will carry
the blooming season on as late as the state of the weather will allow.
Geraniums are, in the colours in which we have them, by far the
most effective dwarf-growing plants for massing purposes ; and the
time they continue in bloom under ordinarily good treatment is so
long continued, that any slight trouble is always worth taking in their
case. I do not know that the large - trussing varieties are as good
bedders, especially late in the season, as are older sorts with smaller
Hower-trusses. Any sorts I have tried have shown a tendency to
damp off in the centre of the truss long before the outer pips were
past, giving either an appearance of dirtiness to the w^hole, or causing
the loss of a good deal of bloom if all such trusses are removed.
Vesuvius, taking all points into consideration, is about the best bed-
ding Geranium of the day. Its comparative hardiness is also 'greatly in
its favour. Last season, when other sorts had been greatly damaged by
frost, this variety kept on blooming for a long time. Unfortunately
the sports which have been obtained of late years from A^esuvius have
been of no value in any respect. Should a clear or bright pink or rose
sport turn up, we would doubtless obtain an acquisition.

Dahlias. — In order to obtain a fine late bloom of these, the shoots
must be kept well thinned out. This does not apply to bedding sorts
so much as to the show and fancy varieties, which make splendid deco-
rative plants till late into the autumn. The plants also require to
be securely staked to withstand September gales ; and during this
month, should it prove very dry, one soaking of water ought to carry
the plants through an ordinary term of drought. Of course this applies
in greatest force to deep, well-cultivated soils. Though our soil is an,
open one, it very rarely happens that w^ater is required for these. Deep
trenching in winter saves the summer use of the water-pot.

Gladiolus. — Under the same circumstances, these will require a good
watering this month, — in the first place to finish the spikes, w-hich are
well advanced during this month, and also to plump up the corms for

i88i.] FRUIT -CULTURE. 351

anotlier season's planting. I like to grow these also on deeplj-
trenched, rich soil, and though the corms are not planted till towards
the end of April, they make rapid progress so treated. Indeed, a
florist- who saw them in the beginning of June, remarked that they
must have been well forward in pots before being planted out !
Gladioli are much like potatoes : they like the soil and the general
temperature warm before being planted, dryish warm weather till
the corms begin to plump up, then a good soaking and a fine warm
air to finish them off with.

Violas, Pansies, and Siveet Peas. — These are one and all greatly
benefited at this time by having all seed capsules and pods removed.
A^ery few of the Violas bloom later than September. The only one
which we have this year given a prominent position to is Downie tk
Laird's Duchess of Sutherland. It is like the old Golden Perpetual,
in that, like it, it would flower continuously, summer and winter,
did weather permit. The great fault with most Violas is their habit in
this dry climate of thus ceasing to flower early in autumn. The
practice of removing the seed-vessels twice throughout the summer is
the best means of getting them to continue in a floriferous state.

Herbaceous 2^lants. — Summer-flowering subjects, such as Pyrethrums.
Lupinus polyphyllus in variety, Delphiniums, early-flowering Phloxes,
and others, if cleared of old flower-stems when these are getting over,
will in most seasons throw up a second crop of flowers in autumn.
Where these borders are regularly attended to throughout the summer
— the borders being stirred with the hoe, plants tied up as they
require it, and seed-vessels never allowed to form,' — it is wonderful
what a difference it makes in the enjoyability of these plants. Well-
kept and well-managed herbaceous borders are a good feature in any
garden, but under opposite conditions they are a perpetual eyesore.
The great thing at present is to secure the late flowering of all plants
possible. R. P. Brotherston.

FRUIT- CULTURE.

THE APPLE.

Dwarf Treei. — Dwarf Apple-trees are "garden toys," and they do
not pay. For ourselves, we never would plant them, unless in pots to
be grown in an orchard-house. If our ground were so limited that we
had no room for Apple-trees, we would certainly plant Gooseberry-
bushes, Currants, or Rasps, or other " small " fruit ; and if we had room
for only one Apple-tree, it would be one that would some day or other
come to something. We — that is, everybody — want Apples by the
bushel ; dwarfs only produce them by the dozen. When ground is so
limited that Apples, to be grown at all, must be borne by little bushes,
we think it a waste of ground to plant them, and a waste of time to

352 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

pinch, root-prune, and train them. To this rule there is only one ex-
ception ; and that is, when there is a greater extent of walls, 5 or
0 feet high, than is wanted for growing Gooseberries and Currants.
In that case we think a few dwarf trees might be planted profitably,
just because there is little profit, and less beauty, in having bare
walls.

Still, many villa -owners have such trees in their possession, and
derive a great deal of pleasant occupation pinching, tying, and petting
tbeir little trees. The thousands of villa gardens are not cultivated
for the sake of profit, but for pleasure ; and there is as much pleasure
to be derived from cultivating small Apple-trees and gathering in their
fruits, as there is in growing Fuchsias, or Pelargoniums, or Chrysan-
themums, or other plants which require staking, tying, petting. Hav-
ing said that such trees do not pay, we have performed one duty : to
those who wish to know how best to cultivate them we hasten to per-
form another.

Apple-trees which, from the first, are intended to be grown as
dwarfs, are, or should be, grafted on some of the dwarfer forms of the
Paradise. Even this is not enough to prevent Apple "trees" attempt-
ing to grow into trees, more especially if they are planted in rich soils.
On poor soils they do not grow into large trees sometimes, unless
carefully top-dressed and manure-watered. We have only had such
trees to deal with twice. In one of the cases they were in a good
deep soil, were lifted and sparingly root-pruned every year, and liber-
ally mulched. They were then 6 or 7 feet high, and about 4 in
diameter ; were well furnished with fruit-spurs ; were handsome
pyramidal trees, and bore really good fruit freely. In the other case,
the trees had had similar treatment, so far as we could ascertain, but
the result was very different. The trees ivere dwarfs — were hide-bound,
stinted, and fruitless. The reason seemed to be that, in the one case,
the soil was deep and fertile ; in the other, thin, gravelly, sterile, and
burnt up. It is also quite possible that the trees were on an inferior
kind of Paradise, for some of the varieties are truly "starving"
stocks.

A great deal depends on the intelligence brought to bear on the
trees. When trees grow lustily and outrun their space, careful lifting
and root-pruning is just what will correct this tendency. Then, when
a heavy crop of fruit ensues, which may be so great as to stop their
growth, heavy mulchings and manurings are absolutely necessary to
enable the trees to stand the strain. To mulch and manure -water
trees which are growing well, inevitably causes the trees to grow too
strongly; and to do this first, and then be obliged to lift and root-prune
in order to correct it, is wrong. Often enough, however, the opposite
mistake is made. Trees growing very moderately, and producing some
fruit, and an abundant promise of more in the shape of blossom-buds,
are often lifted and root-pruned, simply because the satisfactory state

i8Si.] FRUIT ^ CULTURE. 353

they are in has been brought about by that process. The consequence
is, that the trees are checked just at the very moment when they ought
to be strengthened, in view of the prospective crop so liberally promised
by the abundant fruit-buds. Beginners ought to learn to distinguish
between fruit -buds and buds which will only produce leaves; for
when plenty of fiower-buds are formed, with only a moderate amount
of young shoots, lifting and root-pruning is the greatest mistake that
could be made ; — well, no — not the greatest mistake ; for lifting trees
which are covered with flower-buds and nothing else is a greater one,
and we have seen even that mistake committed. When this is the
case, a heavy mulching should be given the moment it is seen that
growths are not to be formed, and the flower-buds which form at the
points of the leading shoots should be picked out, so that the wood-buds
at their base may have a chance of breaking into growth, — if they are
allowed to develop into Apples, farewell to growth. The fruit should also
be thinned, and plenty of liquid manure given during summer. Such
treatment will generally enable the trees to make a fair growth. As
we have said, the opposite treatment is to be corrected by root-pruning,
and this operation may require to be performed annually. Small trees
are much more easily managed at the root than large or even medium-
sized ones. In good soil, where root-pruning is annually performed,
the ball becomes such a mass of roots that lifting may be done so
as to cause no perceptible check at all. Such trees generally prove
very satisfactory, and scarcely need lifting so long as they continue to
bear; but sometimes spring frosts kill the blossoms, and the removal of
the natural check to an over-production of wood — a crop of fruit —
being removed, away go the trees into basket wood. When this
is the case, the roots require checking, in order to induce a return
to fruitfulness. To "hit the happy medium" in all cases, requires a
good deal of intelligent forethought, based upon observation and ex-
perience, and this can only be acquired among the trees.

In the matters of pruning, pinching, and training, we should say
that the directions given for medium trees apply to dwarfs in every-
thing but one, and that one is, that when the dwarfs begin to come near
the size at which it is intended to keep them, the annual growth should
be cut back nearly their whole length. When they have arrived at this
stage, it is a good thing to be occasionally removing old branches as
opportunity occurs, and allowing their places to be filled with younger
wood. This also applies to medium-sized trees, and indeed to all trees
whatever. When any tree ceases to make a certain amount of annual
growth, it begins to decline, and sometimes the decline is precipitate.
When trees have grown as large as is considered desirable, the annual
growth may very often take the form of young branches replacing old
ones, with advantage. Old branches often get covered with spurs,
which cluster too closely, and so mutually weaken each other. A
careful pruner will be always shortening back his spurs as well as his

354 tup: gardener. [Aug.

young shoots, and so keeping them thin and close to the main rods.
When they do get long, thinning out and shortening back should be
done gradually and intelligently.

Trees on Walls. — We would make the same subdivision here as
among trees which are to be grown in orchards, in quarters by them-
selves, or in rows in the kitchen-garden. For villa or cottage gardens,
we think that medium-sized trees on walls as well as in the open are
most suitable. However, we, in all cases, are guided by circumstances,
and it frequently happens that there are walls in even small gardens
which require the largest-growing kinds ; in other cases only the very
smallest are suitable. We remember being shown by a villa-owner
the most fruitful Jargonelle Pear we ever saw. It was planted against,
and wholly covered, the gable of a two-storey warehouse. It had a
great depth of soil to revel in, although a macadamised road lay right
over its root. The training and pruning had been of the most free-and-
easy kind, and would have disgusted a gardener with trim-training
ideas ; but the result was a very large healthy tree, bearing an enormous
quantity of splendid fruit. Hundreds, thousands of gables and other
high walls are covered with fruit-trees which are highly ornamental,
and profitable into the bargain, and better ornaments need not be
wished.

Large Trees on High Walls. — Wherever there are walls over 12 feet
high, trees grafted on the free stock should be chosen, for they will
prove most satisfactory in the end. The test kind of trees to plant in
such situations are those that have been partially trained for walls.
Such trees are to be had at most nurseries. Failing these, young ones
should be selected. They will require cutting back in spring, to
induce as many shoots to push as will lay a proper foundation for the
tree. Endeavours should be made to fill the lower part of the wall
properly with healthy growth. Pruning, pinching, and training must
be done on the very same principle as we have laid down for the trees
in the open quarters. In shortening back leading shoots in winter,
care should be taken that the cuts are made above buds pointing in
the direction where the shoots are desired to be. Shoots which grow
straight out from the wall should always be pinched or pruned back,
and only those which grow from the sides of the branches encouraged
to form the permanent branches. In laying in shoots, take care that
they point straight outwards from the stem. It is also always best to
lay in supplementary shoots (when such are necessary) from the upjyer
sides of the main branches, for then a regular placing of the branches
is more easy and the ultimate appearance better. Branches should
always be laid in so that, no matter how far they may be carried, they
may never cross. Not only is a regularly trained tree more pleasing to
the eye, but when the training is not regular, the branches are sometimes
close together and sometimes widely apart ; so some parts of the tree
are overcrowded, and some parts of the wall are bare.

i88i.] FRUIT-CULTURE. 355

We think that, all things considered, fan-trained trees are best for
everybody, but particularly so for amateurs. For dwarfs against low
walls, trees vertically or obliquely trained may be better, but for
medium or large sized ones fan-trained trees are best. For high walls,
wherg the soil is deep and good, and healthily growing trees are chosen,
horizontally trained trees are very good, and when the training is well
done are very handsome. In training horizontal trees the leader must
be cut back annually, so that their shoots may start — one for a fresh
leader, and two for nailing straight outwards. It is well at first to
allow the lower branches to rise towards their points at an angle of 45°
for a time. If laid out horizontally they will grow very slowly, and
ultimately fail to grow at all, for the upper half of the trees wdll natur-
ally draw off the sap. This is one of the advantages of fan-training.
However, if the lower branches are allowed to rise in the manner we
have recommended, they will make a fair growth, and when they are
grown enough to fill the space they are required to fill, they may be
then depressed. It is a good rule to allow the lower branches
to leave the main stem at an upward angle, although the side branches
are to be finally fixed liorizontally. This angle should approach nearer
and nearer a right angle, until the upper tier of branches strike straight
out at right angles from the stem. This will do much to prevent the
upper branches appropriating the lion's share of the sap, to the im-
poverishment of the lower ones.

In very favourable soils such trees, especially if they are ulti-
mately to attain a large size, may be planted and the roots never
disturbed more. In by far the greater number of cases it will be more
satisfactory if the roots are looked after. One of the modern improve-
ments in gardening is the looking after tree-roots as well as the tops ;
and, as a plain matter of fact, it is more important. Nice training, skil-
ful pruning, and other above-ground operations, are well enough, but are
only half the battle. Roots do mischief, and that continually, if they
get away into bad soil. Where no bad soil is, they may be safely
let alone ; when it is all bad except a thin upper crust, measures must
be taken to keep the roots out of it. The old plan was to concrete,
pave, or cement the bottoms of the fruit-tree borders, but it cost a
great deal of money and labour. Neither is it quite necessary, although
certainly a good plan — let us give our forefathers justice ; for the
modern plan of lifting down-going roots and laying them near the
surface is as good if not a better plan. We have advised the doing of
this before, and need not repeat it ; only, it is necessary to insure
first-rate success, so we again draw attention to it. A fairly vigorous
growth must be kept up from first to last, by letting alone, — by
careful lifting and raising of roots, — and by mulchings of manure
and manure-water, if need be. Lifting and root-pruning — shorten-
ing back long naked roots — has one great thing to recommend
it besides keeping the trees healthy, by only allowing the roots to

356 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

eat healthy food,— and that is, it keeps the roots "near home,"
when one knows where they are and when to apply the food when
they need it. The space thus occupied should never be dug for crop-
ping purposes, for digging destroys the best roots, and they resist it
by going deep down where they will not be disturbed, but where cold
unfruitful sap will be sucked up. Where the roots are allowed to
wander everywhere, cropping over their roots becomes necessary, for
whole roods of ground can seldom be spared in any garden, far less
small ones, for the roots of the wall-trees alone.

Large growing trees should be planted about 18 feet apart in
a wall 12 feet high, and closer on walls that are higher, and wider
on lower walls. If the soil is at all good, each tree should ultimately
cover 240 square feet or thereabout, and something like this should be
allowed for their development. For the sake of covering the walls
from the first, riders (w^all-trained standards on six feet stems) should
be planted alternately with the others, and grubbed out when the
others need the space. A. H. H.

HINTS FOR AMATEURS.

HARDY FEUITS.

A GENERAL Overhauling of the whole stock may now be made. Many
are the systems adopted with pruning and trimming in the autumn, which
come to much the same thing in the end. Some enthusiastic friends go
over all their pyramids and bush-fruits, breaking over their outer shoots
to stop growth. The broken twigs, dangling and hanging among the
healthy leaves, are certainly not pretty. Others go over all and nip off
the tops according to length of shoots, and towards leaf-falling cut all
to their proper length. A third system, and one we think good, is to
go over the trees, cutting moderately in, say, the upper portion ; in two
or three weeks cut back the middle portion ; and, lastly, after a week
or two, cut in the lower portion, according as the shape of tree and its
vigour may dictate. The checking of growth by partly lifting, so that
the tree gets ready for next year's work, is a practice we consider safe ;
and we hope, before this appears in print, to have served some scores
in this manner. We dislike extremes in every form when working
on fruit-trees. Wall-trees should now be in good trim : the fruit
well exposed, and all wood for next season close in its proper quarters,
so that sun and air may reach every part. Notwithstanding what we
say about the success of some who leave Nature to take its own course,
to slash out or twist a shoot into space, as circumstances may sug-
gest, is all that some attempt. These would certainly be none the
worse if they used a little skill in training and making their walls (gables
of houses, sheds, outhouses, &c., as often are the only walls of amateurs,
look more creditable.

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 357

Having lately been called to visit large market-grounds (one garden
from 70 to 100 acres), we found the difference of results obtained
within a range of only a few score of yards to be most striking.
We noticed large breadths of Plum-trees, many of them the " fruit of
the district," Pershore eggs, and not a fruit on them — the cause not
being far to seek, and well known to the manager and his able assist-
ants. Skill has been expended here, and success has been achieved
too, in days gone by; but this year failure is complete. A neighbour
who leaves his trees to the tender care of the elements has heavy crops
of "Pershore eggs," he does not know why — but those who have
made the matter a study know the cause ; and by way of contrast,
the Strawberry crop in the skilfully managed garden is magnifi-
cent, while the proprietor rich in Plums has none. The cause of this,
too, is seen at a glance — worn-out old plants and absence of manure.
The fruitful lot are on well-trenched land enriched with plenty of farm-
yard manure. Wall-trees, up to time of fruit ripening, may have fre-
quent drenchings with hose (where such is in use). Cleanliness is a very
important item in wall-tree management. Where fruit is abundant,
they can be turned to good account by thinning before they begin
to ripen. While Plums are hard, they can be bottled on the French
system, and stored for winter use. We have seen (by a Frenchman)
extraordinary results from this practice : Green Gages bottled quite
hard and sour, and the follow^ing winter and spring, or later, turned out
for use, with the " Gage " flavour unmistakably distinct. The green-
fruit preserving is by no means general ; we, however, know more of
the results of the manner of preserving. Strawberries should be
planted without delay : ground well enriched and properly dug is the
chief secret of success in raising this very desirable fruit.

The work of propagation must now have due attention ; much of the
success of next year will depend on the work being eflSciently carried
out this season. Tender kinds should be put in hand first. Clean pots,
pans, or boxes, should be ready ; also crocks and plenty of clean loam ;
sand, with a little peat or leaf-mould ; sandy loam, with some clean
sand over the top, and the whole deeply drained, will answer most
purposes. Such plants as Alternantheras, Iresines, and Coleus should
be taken first ; then may follow Verbenas, Petunias, Ageratums, and
similar kinds. Pelargoniums of all kinds do well in boxes, pans,
or pots, placed in the full sun ; or a border well broken, and the cut-
tings planted thickly in it, answers well when they are to be potted.
The more delicate Tricolors and smaller-growing golden kinds may have
first attention. They might be placed singly in the centres of small
pots ; and these pots, placed in the full sun, plunged in old tan, leaf-
mould, or cocoa-nut fibre. Rare or valued kinds may be lifted, potted,
and placed in frames or pits to get them to good size for increasing
stock — an extra number should always be in hand to meet casualties.
The system of cramming structures with all kinds of plants brings

358 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

many to grief, and often injures the whole stock: practical men are
often obliged to do much of this, because of meeting demands for
which they have inadequate means. The most successful amateurs we
are acquainted with grow their specialities, and do not attempt to work
beyond their means.

Among the beds and borders a quantity of decaying leaves may be seen when
the cuttings are taken otl". A general cleaning over should take place, and
the necessary picking, trimming, and regulating must be persevered in wher-
ever high keeping is desired — and a llower - garden without such is simply
ridiculous. Each colour should be quite distinct from its fellow, and each
form kept to what was intended. On the contrary, with herbaceous plants,
like shrubs and trees, they form outlines of their own, and should not be
trimmed into formahty like bedding-plants. All borders of mixed plants must
be kept free of decaying flowers and leaves. Stake those which require it.
Hoeing and keeping weeds dowa are matters always requiring attention.

Hollyhocks, Dahlias, &c., require strong stakes and ties, which will stand
the force of winds : exposed positions require this in particular. In the Ptose-
garden budding may be persevered with. A border for the stocks may be in
a part not much frequented, where the work of budding will not be considered
a nuisance, from the litter of tj'ing, &c., which attends the operation. Stan-
dard Ptoses we never cared much for (exce[)t in pots for forcing), and this
season we have seen so much destruction from la'-t season's frosts that our
objection to planting them is increased. Trim off decaying flowers. Look
after svickers from stocks, and top-heavy shoots which are taking all the growth
from the others. Pose hedges (beautiful objects) should be thinned and
trimmed with the knife — no clipping should be tolerated. Always cut close to
a bud, and then dead and dying wood will be in a measure avoided. Roses
trained on walls or trellises should be cut within bounds, to prevent matting.
Many kinds of the Hybrid Perpetuals and Bourbons do well as moderate climb-
ers, and are very manageable, Gloire de Dijon, Souvenir de Malmaison, Mrs
Bosanquet, Climbing Devoniensis, Marechal Niel, and some others of this class,
do well for climbing from 12 to 20 feet. But for growing wild and covering
large spaces, one has to look for such kinds as Fortuneii, Dundee Rambler,
and suchlike.

Plant- Structures,

Summer and autumn flowering -plants will now be abundant, and great
care must be exercised, so that show-houses of any pretension may not form a
part of the "bedding system." To have a mass of plants closely packed
together (the one killing the other, and the whole struggling for the mas-
tery), is simply an outrage on good taste ; something like distinctness and
gracefulness should be attempted. They should be kept thin, turned round
frequently, well treated with water, and kept clean (both plants and pots).
Fuchsias (especially standards). Pelargoniums, Petunias, Achimenes, Glox-
inias, Coleus, Gladioli in pots, Lantanas, Campanula pyramidalis. Cocks-
combs, Begonias, Balsams, &c., mixed with well-grown specimens of Tree-
Ferns, Cordalines, Araucaria excelsa, variegated Phormiums, Dracoenas, half-
hardy Palms, and suchlike, would at any time command admiration in a
show-house in any position. In our district we know of some half-dozen
mechanics who have neat little glass-structures placed by their cots (mostly

i88t.] hints for AMATEURS. 359

erected by their own hands), and as they have to buy their plants, their
stock is small; but it is of much advantage in another form — they have to give
extra care to cultivation and arrangement. By this means they have their
plants thin and select, and they take the form of compact specimens. Stove-
plants, or any with delicate foliage, must not be subjected to cold draughts.
Ferns, and similar shade-loving plants, should be kept where sun and cold air
have not full power over them. During this month the days are often very
warm and the nights chilly ; rather than run risk of injury, it is better to
shut the ventilators. This applies as much to the small frame and window-
box as the large house. Careful watering, and abundance of it, is still requi-
site for free-growing plants, such as Fuchsias, Balsams, &c. The training of
climbers, and judicious thinning of them, requires careful attention. A strong
stem with all the flowering branches hanging down is a very pleasing sight ;
but the whole twisted and tied into ropes, bunches, or coils, as sometimes
seen, is very oiFensive to the eye. Examine borders and beds with plants
growing in them, and let good soakings of water (rain if it can be had) be
given. Camellias, Oranges, and large evergreen plants, will require a quantity
of water. Smaller plants in pots are different, and when they are watered
they should be in want of it ; but in no case should they be allowed to become
dust-dry. New Holland plants may be removed to safe quarters by end of
month. Those in small pots often suffer when left out late to heavy autumn
rains, should they prevail. A general cleaning of houses and pits may be
made when they can be spared. Lights not in use should be washed, and if
painting is necessary it should have due attention. Put in cuttings of Pelar-
goniums of all kinds, especially of the Zonal kinds. Cut down those show
kinds which have flow^ered, and when broke and growing they may have the
soil shaken from them, the roots reduced, and be repotted into smaller-sized
pots. They are better under protection of glass-lights after this. Cinerarias,
Primulas, Calceolarias, Chrysanthemums, shift to larger pots as may be re-
quired : starving at roots now means stunted growth and poor foliage. Chry-
santhemums left in the open ground require less attention with water than
those in pots, but they must not be left to themselves.

It may be well to look to the stock of winter-flowering hardy plants. Aza-
leas and Camellias which have set their buds may have plenty of air and
light, but should not stand in the glaring sun. Be careful in taking plants
from shade to exposure. The stock of Deutzias, Wiegelias, Rhododendrons,
Lilacs, &c. , should be kept in the sun and not over-moist, so that they may
be ready for early work at the proper time. Roses should be forward for
autumn and winter blooming : Teas and China kinds come readily into flower.
Roman Hyacinths should be bought and potted — three to six or a dozen in
pots and pans. Autumn Gracilis Heaths and others for early flowering should
be ready to do their part towards display. The stock of bulbs should be con-
sidered in due time : early potting means early flowering with little forcing.
Stake and train all plants which require attention in this way. Among the
better class of specimens in stoves free growth may have been made, and they
should have more air and exposure, as much as they can bear. Shade as
little as may be necessary ; give the requisite amount of pot -room for the
roots ; put plenty of moisture on the paths and stages ; syringe less, and be
careful not to drench flowers. The winter stock of flowering-plants must now
have due attention to prevent stunting them, and keep them clean. M, T.

3G0 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

BOTANICAL GARDENS, SYDNEY, N.S.W.

Those who visit Sydney's infant turrets, and the new-born glories of
the "southern seas," should not pass by the beauties of these Gardens.
If they do not impress one with hoary wisdom and the dim associa-
tions of the past, which are so inseparable from the name of Kew, they,
on the other hand, go very far to demonstrate that our colonies are not
wholly given up to " gold-getting," but are intensely anxious that
botanical science should flourish among them. For this purpose these
Gardens were established, and likewise to furnish a home for those
floral beauties which her sons may bring from far. The extent of the
Gardens is about 40 acres, and they are bounded on the north by part
of the famous harbour, which is designated as one of the most pictur-
esque in the world. From this point the sea- view is very fine ; ships
ride at anchor within a few yards of a low sea-wall, and give to
the whole scene a grand nobility which canvas only could express.
We were told that the Gardens were naturally of a rocky, barren nature,
so that in many places large quantities of rock had to be quarried
away, and vegetation assisted by the introduction of soil. This has
been judiciously done ; the natural irregularities of surface having
been interfered with as little as possible. The grounds are divided
into two divisions, and known as the tipper and the lower garden.
The upper division is the older, and gives a fair notion of early efforts
at landscape-work. Then they had no time to trouble with curves —
straight lines and plenty of them being considered the two things
necessary. However, we should not like to hear of it being modern-
ised, as it could not undergo such a change without slaughtering some
of the finest exogens we have yet seen. Amongst the number may
be mentioned three fine specimens of Araucaria excelsa. They are
said to have been planted in 1818 ; and from measurements recently
made we quote the following : No. 1, 112 feet high, and 13 feet in
circumference 3 feet from the ground; No. 2, 111 feet, with a circum-
ference of 11 feet a like distance from the ground ; No. 3, 94 feet,
and 14 feet in circumference 3 feet from the ground. No. 1 is a
magnificent tree, and may justly be considered one of the finest in
cultivation. In this division there are also some remarkably fine
examples of Palm-culture, Kentia Forsteriana, the noble thatch-Palm
Gocos plumosa, the Cocoa-Palm of Brazil, which rears its feathery
head fully 100 feet above the lesser forms of vegetation at its base.
The Date-Palm is also a striking object, more especially the reclining
variety Phoenix reclinata ; as seen in fruit it reminds one of the
fabled productiveness of this class of plants. We are now close to the
glass department, consisting of Fern-house, Croton-house, and orchard-
house. In the Fern-house is a good collection, with many fine As-
pleniums lately added from Fiji. The Croton-house had also received
many additions from this sunny isle of the south, which is so prolific

iSSi.] BOTANICAL GARDENS, SYDNEY, N.S.W. 361

in rarities of vegetation. Around tbis department several varieties of
the Stag's-horn Ferns were flourishing exceedingly well. They were
attached to branches and stumps of trees ; many of them had been
worked into specimen form, several feet in circumference. Here are
located the valuable additions of museum and library. The first of
these places was undergoing repairs, and we therefore saw it to disad-
vantage ; yet, from what we saw, we would infer that it must be of
valuable service to botanical students, and of general interest to the
public.

We now come to the lower garden, which is the more modern division.
Here, stretched on every side, is a magnificent carpet of green turf,
which has retained its spring-like freshness throughout an exceptionally
dry season. A closer inspection made us aware that it was largely com-
posed of " buffalo grass " (Stenotaphrum glabrum), and that, owing to
its long, fibrous-rooted character, it is expressly adapted to withstand
long drought. As a lawn-grass for dry soils or hot climates it cannot
be equalled. An artificial lake, with its miniature islands, is the next
attractive feature. The islands are richly covered with semi-aquatic
vegetation, while the lake is occupied with representatives of the
Nymphsea family, many of which were in bloom. Advantage has been
taken here and there, where space permitted, of grouping together
plants having the same general character or properties. If this plan
were to some extent carried out in private gardens, it would in many
cases heighten effect, and give to the whole a special interest. In one
instance we noticed a group furnished from the " bush " district,
among which the Silky Oak, Grevillea robusta, and the famous
Moreton Bay Pine, Araucaria Cunninghamii, formed conspicuous
objects. In close proximity is another group of Proteaceous trees,
principally natives — such as Stenocarpus, Helicia, Hakea, and Bank-
sias. Dotted here and there were many line specimens, of which we
could only afford to take a passing notice — such as Erythrinas, in
many varieties, gaily covered with their coral-like flowers ; Dracaena
draco, a specimen 12 feet in circumference and 10 feet high, which
seemed to draw attention even from the most careless observers;
Salisburia adiantifolia, the Maiden-hair tree of Japan, most striking
in appearance, and so like an Adiantum that from a distance false
impressions might be made; Tecoma velutina, a very free-flowering
shrub, much like an Allamanda from its pale, trumpet-like flowers.
Jubea spectabilis for symmetry of form can bold its own under any
condition, more especially when it reaches a height of 15 or 20 feet.
This plant was presented to the Gardens by Sir W. Macarthur, and
does credit to the donor. Banksia serrata is likewise worthy of notice
from the rusticity of its bark, which makes it a special object of in-
terest. The Coniferse family is not so well represented as might have
been expected, and comes very far behind New Zealand in this respect.
No doubt one cause may be the greater dryness of climate. Near to

3G2 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

where we stand is a small moiiiimcnt, erected to tLe memory of one
of Australia's great explorers. In 1836 he received the appointment
of Government botanist, but resigned two years afterwards, with the
intention of returning home, but death frustrated his purpose. Such
is the short history of Allan Cunningham, whose life-object seems
to have been the good of others rather than the promotion of self-
interest.

The outside culture of tropical fruits has, to a great extent, proved
a failure. The Custard- Apple, Bread-fruit, Alligator Pear, and Man-
gosteen, with many others, have been repeatedly tried and as often
failed. This is rather surprising when such fruit as the Pomegranate
blooms and fruits with great profusion. As to the floral department
we cannot say much ; our visit being towards the end of autumn, the
great display of the season was over. The system of bedding is chiefly
carpet-work, and fine-foliaged soft woods are much used for the purpose.

In bidding farewell to these Gardens, one felt in full sympathy with
the words of Anthony Trollope, when he says of Sydney, it is one of
those places which a man cannot leave without a pang and a tear. That
such gardens have a refining and educative influence, is clearly seen
by the almost entire absence of prohibitory notices. It is said a
Frenchman can easily pass a vineyard without partaking of the fruit,
which to an Englishman is a very difficult task. Our colonial cousins,
however, have proved that even Englishmen can protect that which is
held for the public good, without the proverbial legal cautions.

Wm. Forbes.

vinsrE-GRO^wiisrG- iisr the open air.

As my friends and neighbours around me are now busily employed in
shearing off the summer growth of Vines, it occurs to me that the
present would be a fitting opportunity of saying a few words of general
import upon the subject.

That the cultivation of tbe Grape-Vine might be made profitable in
the south of England, if not in many other parts of the kingdom,
there can hardly be a doubt. But if it is intended to go to the root
of the question, and to instruct those who are most in want of infor-
mation, the true position of affairs cannot be too plainly stated. There
is no need of writing speculatively upon the subject ; Grapes have
been grown and Grapes can be grown under a proper system of culti-
vation. It would be a wonder if the Vine yielded much fruit under
conditions infinitely worse than is enjoyed by the commonest wall-
creeper, and under a system, of treatment which cannot possibly be
more at variance with the natural habit and requirements of the
plant.

I happen to reside for the time being in a district where I am sur-
rounded upon all sides by Vines, and I do not hesitate to say that there

i88i.] VIiN"t:-GROWING IN THE OPEN AIR. 363

are few plants (certainly not fruit-trees) that would exist for half the
time many of these Vines have lived under the same treatment.
Before the Vine becomes a fruitful plant out of doors, its natural habit
and requirements must be better understood by the masses. It is by
nature a creeping plant, and those who cultivate it as a wall-creeper
might just as well have the pleasure of enjoying a little fruit, if they
only knew the way to obtain it. The majority of cottagers regard it as
a troublesome, refractory plant in summer, and they frequently ascribe
its barrenness to old age. They are not aware that its roots travel long
distances in search of food, or that the disease that attacks it in sum-
mer (mildew) is the result of starvation at the root. Neither do they
know that what they in their simple way call summer-pruning destroys
the last chance of anything like a crop of fruit, because the fruit-bear-
ing wood is cut away, and a stock of green unripe laterals takes its
place, only to be cut down by the winter's frost. If, therefore, we are
to inculcate a spirit of thrift and emulation among those who have
opportunities of cultivating the Vine upon the walls of their houses or
gardens, we must, in order to consummate the scheme, endeavour to
give some tangible proof of our faith in its practicability. And I see
no possibility of accomplishing this end better than by the proprietors
of large estates leading the way. With a very trifling outlay the walls
of cottages could be furnished with a fresh set of A'^ines, and an intel-
ligent man should be deputed to direct their management for the
first couple of years, until the occupiers themselves took sufficient
interest in looking after them.

The ordinary labourer is no believer in new ideas or new doctrines.
He is too deeply imbued with the views of his class to give up
old habits and customs ; reason or logic has no charm for his ear ;
but once prove to him by results that your scheme is not only feasible
but profitable, and your trouble is at an end.

Nearly all the Vines that have come under my notice in this district
are in a state of semi-starvation, having little else to live upon than a
small portion of impoverished earth, trodden so hard that no moisture
can penetrate to the roots to nourish them. In many cases the roots
have travelled underneath the cottages, where no artificial assistance
can be rendered to them, even if it were so desired. In order, therefore,
to make a promising start, it would be necessary in most cases to have
a thorough clearance out, and to make new borders and plant new
Vines.

When it is considered that a Vine can be purchased at from 3s. 6d.
to 5s., that will cover the walls of a cottage in two or three years, and
that the border need not be an expensive one, there are certainly not
many obstacles standing in the way of initiating an improved system
of open-air Vine- culture. The use of very rich soil would be a
mistake, as it would also be expensive to many who could not well
afi'ord it. In any case it is not an absolute necessity ; in most cases it

3Gi THE GARDENER. [Aug.

miglit prove injurious, because of its tendency to promote spongy, sappy
growth, .which in our climate in most seasons would stand a bad chance
of getting properly ripened. It would be better at the beginning to
make only a narrow border, in order the better to establish moderate
growth and early fertility. No variety is better adapted, generally
speaking, for outdoor culture than Royal Muscadine, the Chasselas
de Fontainebleau of the French, which is not fastidious as to climate.
But it is no use living in a fool's Paradise. Until some better idea
of the summer management of Vines is inculcated into the minds of
the lower classes, much improvement need not be expected. The
young wood that is ruthlessly cut away at this season is the fruit-bear-
ing wood of next year ; and until cottagers and others learn to appre-
ciate this, and only thin out to admit air and light among their Vines,
nothing more than a crop of half-famished leaves will result from their
labours. W. Hinds.

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF WALL - BORDERS IN
KITCHEN-GARDENS.

NO. VIII.

At the commencement of these papers I took occasion to point out
how, in many instances, the wall-borders are far too narrow to rightly
admit of being cropped with vegetables, as the preparation for these
much interferes with the roots of the fruit-trees. Where, however, a
liberal quantity of manure is given, and the digging performed once
only during the year — say either late in the autumn or early in the
spring — not so much harm results ; indeed it is very probable the fruit-
trees derive more nourishment from this and the supplies of liquid
manure administered to some crops, than they would receive were they
the only occupants of the borders. This may appear somewhat contra-
dictory, but it is not so in reality. What I mean to say is this : the
majority of wall-borders are inadequately manured, are dug and crop-
ped without any regard being paid to the lawful and really most
valuable occupants — viz., the fruit-trees trained to the walls. If more
attention was paid to the roots of these, we should see fewer walls
furnished, or rather partially furnished, with inferior trees. For an
illustration of my argument, I have only to step into the garden now
under my charge. I here find splendid walls, which are now almost in
as good condition as when built a century since ; good, deep, well-
drained soil, and plenty of available moisture. Unfortunately the bor-
ders'are narrow, and these appear to have long been heavily cropped, in
common with the remainder of the garden. In one instance the bor-
ders near a west wall have for many years been filled with herbs, few
of which were ever replanted or manured. As a consequence of all
this, the trees, with the exception of the Pears and three large Apricots,

i88i.] WALL -BORDERS. 365

are now in a very poor plight, the old ones gradually dying, and those
planted of late years making little progress, mildew being prevalent
on all the Peaches and Nectarines ; all this resulting, I firmly believe,
from the dry impoverished state of the borders. It may be said I am
forming rather too hasty an opinion on the subject. If after more
liberal treatment I find this to be the case, I will retract : I mention it
at the present time, simply because I intend writing in this number
upon what should not be grown on wall-borders, and refer to this not
because it is a solitary instance of mismanagement, but rather because
it will not injuriously affect those responsible.

In a great many gardens the herbs are grown on wall-borders, and,
as at this place, are almost undisturbed for many years. In our case,
in addition to the herbs, we found a row of Violets and Chrysanthe-
mums where possible to plant them, at the base of this and all the walls.
Consequently the border, from the wall to the edge and to its full depth,
was robbed of all fertility all the year round. No wonder the Apricots
were dry and poor, and the Pear-trees (cordons) never perfected their
fruit. Those who have A^iolets or herbs, including well-established
Parsley on wall-borders, will do well to examine the soil under them.
The result of the investigation, unless I am much mistaken, will be a
decision to form fresh Violet and herb quarters. I am aware the herbs
are very conveniently situated when near the walks ; but if they cannot
be shifted to the opposite side of the walks, owing to more fruit-trees
being in possession, what is to hinder planting a few lines on the
inside of the fruit-trees 1 As I have endeavoured to point out in these
papers, the wall-borders can be cropped more profitably with temporary
crops, as opposed to the most injurious permanent crops (with which
I ought to include Strawberries, should these be retained beyond one
or at the most two seasons) ; and it is quite certain that new beds of
herbs are not only easily formed, but they are also very much improved
by the process. Of course if the Violets, Strawberries, and herbs were
annually replanted, the ground on these occasions receiving heavy
dressings of manure, not much harm would result ; but it is a curious
fact how little attention is paid to the herb quarters especially, seeing
bow regular is the demand for some of them. How many there are
who fail to maintain a supply of Parsley ! and even Mint, Tarragon, and
Sage are very scarce at times when they ought to be available, and
that, too, with but little trouble. In conclusion, a few further remarks
on herb-culture may not be out of place.

Here it has been the practice to sow Parsley on a south border for
winter use ; but although the object in view has been attained, the
practice will not be imitated by me, owing to the incessant tramplings
in all weathers when the Parsley is picked, rendering the ground solid
and poor, and not easily recovered to a workable condition. The
Parsley is this season sown in quantity in lines near to, and between,
the commoner fruit-trees in the open, where it will be quite as access-

36G THE GARDENER. [Aug.

ible, and less injurious. Some of the hardiest Parsley I have yet
seen was grown entirely in the open. The seedlings should always be
thinned out freely, as it improves the quality and robustness of the
growth.

With the majority of herbs annual propagation is not necessary ;
but as a rule, young plants of all will be found most profitable, as well
as less unsightly. Old plants again, of Tarragon and Sage especially,
frequently fail, if picked closely or from frost ; whereas a few two-year-
old plants will yield endless pickings. The former should, during the
spring months, be divided and replanted on good fresh soil ; and of
Sage young plants may be obtained, either by pulling off, during April,
small branches, and firmly dibbling in these on a north border, — by
cuttings, made in Jane or July, of the current year's growth, dibbling
these in hand-lights in a cool position, — or by seed sown on a warm
border in April. The young plants should not be allowed to flower,
and they will soon spread. Mint is much improved by being occasion-
ally divided and replanted, and does not require a warm sheltered
position. A fresh stock of Fennel can easily be had by sowing seed
in March and April. The common and pot Marjorams can be divided
and transplanted in the spring months ; and the winter Sweet Marjo-
ram is annually sown in April or early in May. Penny-royal can be
divided and replanted at almost any season of the year. Good-sized
branches of Rosemary, if pulled off during March or April, and dibbled
in a shady border, will root freely, and form nice plants for moving in
the following spring. The different varieties of Thyme can easily be
propagated by division, and soon grow to a good size. Summer Savory
is obtained by sowing seed in a warm position during April ; and the
winter Savory is usually increased by division of the old roots, either
in March or April. Sorrel is often seen in undisturbed possession of
a warm border, when in reality it would succeed better in a cooler
position. Probably in the majority of gardens it is unnecessarily grown,
and the ground it occupies might well be devoted to other purposes.
To have large succulent leaves, the roots should be divided and re-
planted every two or three years. It should be cut over when inclined
to run to seed. Chives should also be replanted occasionally : they
are very useful for salads. Both Sweet and Common Basil are raised
from seed. There may be other kinds than the above ; but according
to my experience, cooks now do not use but few varieties of herbs,
although it is perhaps advisable to grow them in case they should be
asked for. W. Iggulden.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

The Marquis of Huntly's experiments in Turnip-storing on his Scotch
estates, as recorded in the horticultural papers, are suggestive to gar-
deners as well as farmers in regard to the winter storage of root-crops.

i88i.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 3G7

" Oq the 29th of Xovember last," he says, " we carried out the following ex-
periments : First of all 600 Turnips were left in the land as they grew, with-
out any protection. I need not say that when these were taken up on the
26th of March this spring they were all rotten. Secondly, a row of 600 Tur-
nips was furrow^ed up with the plough in the usual Aberdeenshire fashion, and
when taken up about S3 per cent of these were rotten, or about five rotten to
one whole Turnip. Thirdly, we tried what I might call the Forfarshire system,
by opening a furrow with a single-boarded plough ; two drills of Turnips pulled,
without anything cut from them, were laid against the perpendicular side of
the furrow and the soil turned back over them with the plough. Of these,
about 28 per cent were destroyed or rotten, but of the good Turnips many were
wet and dirty. Fourthly, we opened a deep furrow with a double-boarded
plough ; the Turnips were shorn of leaves with the scythe, harrowed oiit, and
eight drills put into the furrow. They were partly covered by one round of
the single-boarded plough, and the remaining uncovered portion covered with
earth by spade. Out of these 600 Turnips about 16 per cent were destroyed,
but they did not come up quite so clean as they should have done, or as those
in the next experiments we tried, and which I may call the English way,
which was putting the Turnips into pits. I had three different pits or heaps,
about 6 feet square. Into No. 1, 600 Turnips, as they were pulled, without
anything cut off, were thrown. This is the ordinary way I have seen it done
in Huntingdonshire since I was a boy. In the next, the 600 Turnips had the
leaves cut off ; and in the third pit, they had the leaves and the roots cut otY.
The pits were 3 to 4 feet high, and each contained about 1 h cartload of Tur-
nips, and were covered with 4 inches of earth. In No. 1. there were 552
healthy Turnips out of the 600, and 48 destroyed, or 8 per cent ; in No. 2
there were 550, and 50 destroyed, or 8 per cent ; and in No. 3 there were 570,
and 35 destroyed, or 6 per cent ; and the great advantage was that the bulbs
were healthy, clean, and dry."

' Land and Water ' gives an interesting account of the manufacture
of anew manure named "Azotine," which is said to equal the best
guano, and likely to supersede it to some extent.

*'Man is, by the laws of society, obliged to clothe himself in garments made
from vegetable or animal fibre, and in due time these garments decay and are
consigned to the rag-bag. In this age of utility nothing is permitted to be
wasted, hence these rags are divided into three categories. First, they are
washed and purified, then after beins unravelled they are made uf) into infe-
rior cloth, and sold at a cheap rate. The remainder is carefully examined and
all animal matter removed ; it is then packed in bales and despatched to the
papermakers, who give a good price for it. The rags of the third class are, or
rather have been, considered almost valueless, as they cannot be used for cloth
or paper. Hitherto they have been utilised for manure in a rough manner, by
tearing them into pieces and burying them at a trifling depth below the earth,
scattering them over the surface ; but as this process is tedious, and the sub-
stance takes a long time to decompose and produce any effect upon vegetation,
it scarcely repays the manual labour, so that cultivators do not care to employ
it. The plan was then tried of destroying the wool with caustic alkali, and
throwing the blackened mass into the river, or of attacking the cotton with a
strong acid, and reducing it to powder, whilst the wool was made up again.
Thus the utilisation of one fibre occasioned the destruction of the other. This

3G8 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

loss is prevented in the manufacture of azotine. The preparation of this new
substance is founded upon the fact that all animal fibres, when submitted for
some hours to the action of steam at a high tem[)erature, and to a strong pres-
sure, by which means a great modification takes place, a species of decomposi-
tion analogous to the action of caustic alkali, the material is transformed into
a brown mass resembling caramel, which can be dissolved even in cold water.
The operation is very simple, as fully described by M. A. Landureau, in an
article contributed by him to the ' Journal d'Agriculture Progressive.' He
states: We have tried this new manure this year upon one of our experi-
mental fields of Beetroot, and find it quite equal to the best guano. The most
important circumstance from an industrial point of view is that this new fab-
rication being produced from refuse, the expense of making it is covered, and
the azotine yields a net profit to the maker. We believe that this discovery
is of a nature to render great service to agriculture by the utilisation of refuse
hitherto of no use."

The ' Field ' gives what it calls Dr Lindley's recipe for a Vine-bor-
der, and thinks it explains a good deal in Vine-culture.

"With regard to the composition of the soil of Vine-borders, no cultivator
who has written on Vine-growing has, so far as I am aware, quoted the late
Dr Lindley on the subject ; but although he was a theorist more than any-
thing else, it is admitted by cultivators that his conclusions were wonderfully
near the mark, and not a few of them have been completely verified in practice.
Speaking of the Hampton Court Vine, which has preserved its health and
fertility for such a length of time — being in that respect a marvellous contrast
to Vines under modern culture, which in so many cases die or become en-
feebled whilst still in their infancy — he observes that it is growing in a finely
divided alluvial soil, resting on gravel, the subsoil being dry and compact.
It matters little what the material consists of, for a clay bottom may be .
equally good with a gravel one, if drained naturally, by fissures or other
causes. In such situations the Vine finds all the elements it requires for its
growth. The fertilising particles of matter are equally distributed through
the soil. There is no disposition in any portion of such soils to run together,
or to become sour ; every facility is afforded the roots to permeate the borders,
while the finely divided state of the various ingredients composing them (and
their perfect admixture) favours the production of those minute fibrous roots
which are so essential an element of Grape-growing. Here, then, is all the
Vine requires to produce good and abundant crops, and to form for itself a
constitution enabling it to supply generations with its generous produce.
This, which may be called a recipe for a Vine-border, was published by
Lindley nearly thirty years ago, and before so much had been written on the
subject by modern authorities on Grape-culture ; and it may be doubted if a
more correct and generally applicable one was ever offered, or one which so
suggestively explained how it is that the Vine succeeds in soils of such diverse
character, and in soils that were never purposely prepared for it."

We Lave read a good many favourable notices lately of the new-
greenhouse Rhododendron, Lady Alice Fitzwilliam, and have also had
the opportunity of seeing it at its best in two or three gardens. It is
perhaps one of the grandest, if not the finest, variety of its kind yet

t88i.] notes from THE PAPERS. 3G9

raised — a hybrid, with pure white flowers of large size, possessing a
strong but delicious })erfume that fills the house. The flowers are
larger than those of any existing variety we know, being more like
moderately-sized Lilium auratums than anything else, and are produced
in great profusion, and from two to four on a truss. The plant has
received the usual certificates, we believe, from the Royal Horticultural
and Botanical Societies.

" Ben's Boiler " is the latest addition of its kind to horticultural
appliances. Who " Ben '^ himself is we have not the least idea, but
he has lately written sensibly on the subject of heating, and now we
have his boiler, which may be described as a Jones's " terminal end "
turned outside in. Externally it is a simple arch of the proper portions,
and the wings and auxiliary flues are all inside. Whether these flues
are required or no may be a matter of opinion, but the form is the best
conception of its kind we have yet seen.

It cannot but have struck the frequenters of our summer flower
shows during the past two or three years, that there has been an ap-
preciable falling off in the quality of the fruit exhibited — particularly
Grapes, which have not been up to the mark. During the present
season there has not been one show, so far as we have seen or read, of
which it could be said the display of fruit was high class or even excel-
lent. Pines, of course, have been few and poor, which is not surpris-
ing, because the St Michael's Pines and other causes have contributed
to drive the English grower out of the running to a large extent [and
j^et to have a really full-flavoured Pine we must have an English one —
Ed.], and greatly reduced the interest in Pine-culture in our gardens.
It is not so with Grapes, however, and unless we are to attribute the
inferiority of the examples that have been shown to the recent bad and
untoward seasons we have experienced, it is difficult to assign a cause.
It is not at all improbable that the cold and dull seasons following one
another in succession for a number of years, as has been the case, may
have impaired the constitution of Vines under glass. The agricultural
papers say that the effect of the continued cold and sunless seasons
has been to deteriorate the quality of the hay crops, and almost to
destroy much of the finer and better herbage, whose place has been
usurped by the coarser grasses ; and it requires no stretch of the
imagination to believe that permanently planted indoor subjects may
have suffered in some degree also. The complaint of the fruiterers
this season is that Grapes are unusually ill-coloured.

Currency has been given to the report that in the reductions very
generally taking place in gardens, owing to the depression of trade,
cheaper and inferior men are being substituted for good ones as head-
gardeners ; but those whose business brings them in contact with pro-

370 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

prietors and gardeners most, declare there is not a word of truth in
the statement. Changes do take phice, as usual, and no doubt reduc-
tions of a nature have had to be made in numbers of gardens that
rendered it desirable to gardeners interested in their business to
resign their charge ; but, as a rule, employers are too much alive to
their own interests, and, to do them justice, generally too considerate,
to part with good servants for the sake of a few pounds' difference in
their salary, knowing as well as other people that economy is not
efifected by such measures.

So much abuse has been heaped upon gardeners and farmers for
their hostility to certain species of birds — which they believe destroy
or greatly injure their crops — by those who have taken the "balance
of life" in hand, and who maintain that the birds are really the
cultivator's friends, that it will interest those concerned in such
matters, to learn what has come of an attempt on the part of
certain naturalists to establish an equilibrium in that way in New
Zealand. In that country, cultivators of the soil were not so badly
situated, on the whole, as regards insect -pests, only nature had
provided insects that did do some little damage to crops, and had
forgotten to supply the counterpoise in the shape of birds to prey
upon them. This little omission the Acclimatisation Society kindly
undertook to supply, and imported greenfinches, which have taken
kindly to the soil and multiplied prodigiously. It is not quite clear
what damage they have done to the particular scourges they were
expected to destroy ; but according to the New Zealand papers, the
Acclimatisation Society have lately been asked to supply poison to
destroy the finches ; and one poser addressed to the Society is a
request "to state what it proposes to do to remove these birds
from the country ! " In the meantime, the protection of the law,
which the finches have enjoyed hitherto, has been removed, and
a war of extermination against them is likely to commence. The
finches have increased so much these few years back in New Zealand,
that it is feared " they will soon eat the produce of every farmer in
the country." Where they abound, turnips can hardly be raised,
owing to their ravages, and wheat and oat fields are so stripped as
not to be worth cutting. In the attempts, to i^poison the birds by
means of poisoned seeds, many other valuable birds that it is desirable
to protect have been destroyed ; and altogether the balancing experi-
ment has produced such disastrous results that the Acclimatisation
Society, which no doubt acted on the advice of "scientific" naturalists,
has had to confess to having made some serious mistakes.

i88t.1 decorative GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 371

ROSES TO BE SEEI^" TO BEST ADVANTAGE.

A SOUTH border well trenched and manured is probably the best posi-
tion for Roses, and if it has a good slope to the front so much the
better. Plant vigorous kinds, beginning at the back with crimsons
and darks of any kind, next row to be pinks or light reds, third row
scarlets of shades, and front row flesh-coloured and whites, or the
whole of these in proportionate numbers, mixed plant for plant. Let
them be planted, say, 4 feet apart, placing a quantity of good turfy
loam about the roots of each as the work goes on. Mulch well with
rotten cow-manure ; and just before the buds begin to open give a
soaking of manure-water, and a display of Roses may be had equal
to any show of flowers which one can conceive. As to pruning,
thin out the weakly shoots, cut the strong ones moderately back. The
front of the bed, by pegging, may be 1 or 2 feet high, the second row
3 feet, the next 4 feet, and rising a foot or two as taste and position
may dictate. Such a bank as we have in view, treated thus, shows
Roses to the best advantage. Standard Roses, we are glad to find,
have lost much favour during the last three years. Frost, we believe,
has had something to do with this change of taste. Boss.

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

DAPHNE TNDICA.

The Daphnes are among the most deliciously fragrant of our green-
house plants. They are generally pretty strong growers, and when
fairly established succeed best if planted out along with Camellias
and suchlike ; but they also make very good pot-plants, provided due
care is taken in the way of pinching and training them into form
when young ; otherwise, if left to themselves, they grow rather bare
and straggly. They come into flower naturally in the winter season,
which gives them an additional claim to our attention. Though some
of the varieties are all but hardy, and all of them thrive well in an
ordinary greenhouse temperature, yet while they are in a young state
they are the better of being grown in a somewhat higher tempera-
ture than that of the greenhouse, say from 55° to 60°. They are not
of very rapid growth when young; but by keeping them somewhat
warm, they will of course grow into plants of a useful size so much
the sooner. They are always much prized on account of their sweet
perfume, a small plant when in flower being sufficient to fill a room
with its sweet fragrance.

Daphnes can be raised from seed, but as the seed requires about
two years to vegetate, this plan is not often adopted ; the more

2 B

372 THE GARDKNER. [Aug.

general mode being to graft tlie finer varieties on stocks of the
common Spurge -Laurel (Daphne laureola). The soil best suited
to their requirements consists of equal parts of good turfy loam
and fibry peat, with a good sprinkling of silver sand. The soil
should be used in as rough a state as may be consistent with the
size of pot used, and the pots should be very carefully drained, as,
though the plants require a large supply of water when in full growth,
they are very impatient of water lodging about the roots, and will
soon fall into bad health should the soil become in any way soured.
When the plants have completed their year's growth they should be
turned out into a drier atmosphere, to ripen off, and set their flower-
buds. After a time they may be set out of doors, in a nice sheltered
position facing south ; care should be taken, however, that worms do
not find their way into the pots — they should therefore be set on an
inverted pot, or on a deep bed of fresh ashes. Should early flowers
be wanted, a few plants may be put into a gentle heat in November,
and they will come into flower about Christmas. Daphnes are some-
what susceptible to the attacks of red-spider, so that during the grow-
ing season the syringe should be freely used among them. The
greenhouse varieties are mostly natives of China and Japan ; and
though the genus consists of a great many varieties, the cream of
them is comprised in D. hybrida, D. indica, D. indica rubra, D. odora,
and D, odora rubra.

THE PIMELEA.

The above genus contains some of the most beautiful of our flower-
ing greenhouse plants. They are generally easily grown, and are very
free bloomers, as well as being very sweet-scented. They are admir-
able for cutting from, and also for house-decoration, and are among
the best of exhibition plants — indeed they formerly used to be con-
sidered indispensable on the exhibition -table, but, like many other
kindred subjects, have for some years been all but unrepresented
at our exhibitions. We hope, however, to see them again reinstated
in their wonted place. They are all natives of New Holland, and
therefore do not require a high temperature to grow them — a winter
temperature of between 40° and 50° being amply sufficient for them.
They are propagated from seed and by cuttings ; the latter being the
mode more generally adopted.

Cuttings of the young shoots should be taken off in spring, and put
in under a bell-glass, in a properly prepared pot, such as has been often
described before, and the pot plunged in a mild hotbed. They must
be potted off singly into small pots as soon as they are sufficiently
rooted, and the pots replanged in the bed until they get a fresh start.
The soil should consist of good fibry peat, two-thirds, and one-third
of turfy loam, with a sufficient quantity of silver sand to keep it open.
Of course for the small plants the soil must be sifted, but for all sue-

iSSi.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 373

ceediiig shifts the soil should be in a rougher state, the pots care-
fully drained, and the soil rammed rather firmly in the pots. They
must be watered carefully, x>articularly after potting, and at this time
they should be kept for a while pretty close and warm. A 3-inch pot
will be quite large enough for them the first season, and in the follow-
ing March or April they may be shifted into larger pots, and the
points pinched out, which operation should be repeated a few times,
so as to secure a good foundation for the future specimen.

It requires a number of years to get up a large specimen, but plants
in 5- or 6-inch pots make most useful subjects for general decorative
work. The time of their flowering is from May to July, according to
the variety. The genus comprises several varieties, and all of them
are worth growing ; but a selection of half-a-dozen varieties will gen-
erally be found sufficient. P. decussata, P. elegans, P. Hendersonii,
P. spectabilis, P. diosmi\3 folia, and P. Neippergeana will be found to
give general satisfaction.

LESCHENAULTIA.

The Leschenaultia is a genus of greenhouse plants which are also
natives of New Holland, and though unsurpassed either as decora-
tive plants or as specimens for exhibitions, they are very rarely
seen in either capacity. They have generally been considered
somewhat difficult to cultivate, and no doubt it does require a
good deal of care to keep them in health ; still they are not a
bit more difficult to grow than many plants which are more gen-
erally cultivated. They are liable to suffer from a close damp atmo-
sphere, or from over - watering, and should therefore be grown in
a well -ventilated structure, and pretty near the glass, and good
drainage secured to them. A winter temperature of between 40°
and 45^ will suit them, and they should be aired on all possible
occasions. A slight shading may be found necessary during the
hottest summer months.

They are propagated by cuttings taken from the points of the young
shoots, and treated in the way usually done with plants of this class —
viz., under a bell-glass in a slight bottom-heat, and potted off, as soon
as struck, into thumb-pots. They should be grown in pure peat with
plenty of fibre in it, a good admixture of silver sand being added ;
potted moderately firm, and pinched a few times when young. They
can be grown to a good size quicker than many kinds of plants,
and therefore can do with somewhat larger shifts than are usually
accorded to hard-wooded plants ; but this just means that more care
must be taken in the watering of them.

There are two varieties, at least, which are worthy of a place in the
most select collection of plants — viz., L. biloba, the flowers of which
are a beautiful dark blue, and L. formosa, with bright scarlet flowers.

J. G., W.

374 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

PinsrCHING-WHEN AND HOW TO DO IT.

Perhaps the subject upon which I am about to treat would have
been better discussed at an earlier date ; but its importance to juniors
in the horticultural profession, as well as to others who look for
counsel and advice from the columns of the horticultural press, may
in all probability render it a welcome subject even at this advanced
period of the season.

Many people engaged in horticultural pursuits have but a vague
idea of the object of pinching and summer pruning generally. For
what purpose do we pinch 1 and how shall we illustrate the practice 1
Pinching is performed for two or more purposes. One is to cause
a plant consisting of one or more shoots to develop into, say, a bush
of twenty or thirty shoots ; the second — and not the least important
— is to concentrate the growth and vigour of a plant into one or
more stems or shoots, in order thereby to produce a greater degree of
perfection in the size and shape of the flowers. Let me give a
simple practical illustration : I will take the Chrysanthemum as the
most suitable subject. We will suppose a plant having three shoots :
these shoots are pinched, and presently the plant develops nine shoots,
and so on ad libitum, until the little plant of three shoots has grown
into a specimen of three feet.

It was asserted early in the present year by a cultivator that the finest
Chrysanthemum blooms are invariably produced upon the "terminal
bud ; " and this expression of opinion was endorsed by the editor of a
contemporary, whose eulogy of flowers produced upon lateral growths
created not a little consternation in Chrysanthemum circles, and brought
the writer of this article at least half-a-dozen letters inquiring if I knew
exactly what ballast such authorities could safely carry without foun-
dering. " Flowers produced upon laterals being as handsome as
could be desired ! " As well might we compare a bunch of Grapes
produced from a lateral, with one borne upon the leader of a Grape-
vine. But I have undertaken the task of elucidating the practice of
pinching, and the time at which the operation should be performed.
You pinch a plant, and you then watch the effect produced by the
operation. The cultivator who pinches at random says : pinch as often
as you like up to a certain date, and the result will be the extension of
the plant, and a proportionate increase in the quantity of flowers. It
is true the plant will increase in size, and the flowers in number, but
what of quality? The finest flowers, says a learned authority, are
produced upon the terminal bud. Now it would be wisdom on the
part of those who think so to remain silent for at least five years
upon this subject, and meanwhile to apply themselves more strictly
and observantly to the practical details of superior cultivation, and
after that time I venture to think they will have altered their
opinions, much to their own advantage and that of others. As a matter

iSSi.] PINCHING— WHEN AND HOW TO DO IT. 375

of fact, the best flowers are " not produced upon the terminal bud/'
and such random conjecture is very misleading, if not mischievous to
many.

But some one may say. Where is your proof? Anticipating a
challenge upon the point, I will again revert to the plant having three
shoots, each of w^hich is pinched, and which in a short time pro-
duces three shoots each, or nine shoots in all. If these shoots are
not further stopped, a bud will form itself upon the point of each
shoot during the month of July. No notice should be taken of this
bud, and in a short time three more shoots will radiate from the base
of this bud, two of which should be removed by pressing them in a
slanting direction with the forefinger of the right hand, or what is
better, by using a small wooden peg, something of the size and form
of a lead pencil, made soft at the point by squeezing it between the
teeth. By this simple process the vigour that would naturally be
equally divided into three shoots is retained in one, and the flower
produced upon such a shoot will be perfect in form (globe-like), having
fine broad petals, rich in colour, and of fine substance. The plant
grows on with increased vigour until the early part of the month of
August, when another bud will appear upon the point of each shoot,
and these are the buds that produce the fine flowers — not the "terminal
buds" of the writer before referred to, whose flowers were so hand-
some last wdnter, and who had a crop of lateral flowers into the
bargain !

A common error with cultivators is to pinch back into the hard
wood, instead of merely " rubbing off the point of the shoot," which
is the proper way to do in all cases of pinching. Again, in the case
of Vines or other fruit-trees, pinching is a very important operation.
Let us look at the result pinching produces upon the Vine. Plant
two Vines, and grow both upon the single-rod system until the canes
have reached the length of from 9 to 12 feet ; then stop one and let
the other grow on, and note the result. No. 2 extends in length,
while No. 1 increases in thickness ; in other words, the result
of pinching in this case is to localise or concentrate vigour. I sup-
pose it is hardly necessary to remark that, when a Vine is pinched
the extremity of the shoot only should be removed, and the lateral
growth should be pinched out from the side of the first bud next to
where the Vine has been stopped. In the case of Peach-trees, pinch-
ing should be done when the shoot has grown 2 or 3 inches in length.
A shoot may be pinched because it is too strong, or because additional
shoots are required to fill up vacant spaces in the tree ; but in any
case the operation must be performed shortly after the tree has
started into growth, or the result will be immature wood and scanty
crops.

I have seen Peach-trees converted from their natural habit of
growth into myriads of fruiting spurs, by judicious pinching and

376 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

restriction at the root, until in the winter many people mistook them
for Plum-trees. Pinching enables the cultivator to turn a plant or
fruit-tree into any form or shape, if he only knows how and when to
do it. You do not achieve results by pinching because Dick, Tom,
or Harry did the same, at the same time the year before, but because
you are capable of judging, from the condition of the plant or tree
before you, that the operation will produce beneficial results.

W. Hinds.

PLUMBAGO HOSEA COCCINEA.

Amongst useful stove-flowering plants this Plumbago should be exten-
sively grown for decorative purposes. There are objections urged
against it as useless for cutting, for which purpose it is not suitable,
unless flowers are required only for one evening, for such as dinner-
table purposes, etc. Nevertheless this one drawback, great though it
may appear to some, is not sufficient reason for discarding it entirely.
Its value for decoration alone, justifies us in recommending it to be
largely grown by those who have flowers to produce in quantity dur-
ing the dreary days of winter. In few private places are all the flowers
that have to be grown used for cutting purposes. Greenhouses, con-
servatories, &c., have to be kept gay in the majority of cases, besides
those employed for other purposes. For effectiveness in stoves, the
Plumbago is invaluable. The flowers individually do not last long,
but they are produced in such succession as to maintain the plant gay
over its entire blooming season, which is not of short duration. Few
plants are better adapted for arranging amongst Crotons, Dracsenas,
and others of a stiff and formal growth, the stifi'ness and formality of
which the Plumbago relieves. It is of easy cultivation, and requires
but little skill to grow it to perfection with but moderate convenience.
Young plants annually produced in spring by means of cuttings do the
best. The month of April is a good time to insert the cuttings, for if
taken earlier the young shoots frequently produce flowers, and in con-
sequence do not make such rapid progress afterwards. The side shoots,
when about 1 inch in length, should be taken for cuttings, which
root as readily as Verbenas if placed in 5-inch pots in sandy soil, and
placed in a close frame. When rooted, and before the roots become
matted together, they should be placed singly in 3-inch pots, and placed
in the shade for a short time until fresh growth commences. No better
place can be selected for them than under the shade of Cucumbers and
Melons during their early stages. When afforded a warm moist tem-
perature they grow rapidly, and soon require to be pinched well back.
It is useless to merely remove the point, as they invariably only break
one growth ; but when pinched well back into the harder wood, more
shoots are produced.

i88t.] a plea for HARDY FLORIST'S FLOAVERS. 377

When the pots are full of roots they should be transferred into 5 and
6 inch pots, which are large enough for all decorative purposes ; and in
these sizes plants can be produced carrying from six to ten shoots.
The soil should consist of good loam and a seventh of thoroughly de-
composed manure, with sufHcient sand to render the whole porous. In
potting, the soil should be pressed firmly into the pots. After potting
they should remain in the shade for a time, and then be grown closer
to the glass, where more light and air can be given them to harden and
ripen the growth as it is produced, as upon this depends to a large
extent whether the plants flower well or not. If well grown they will
produce panicles of flowers from 18 inches to 2 feet in length. The
shoots should not be stopped later than the middle of the present
month, or they will not flower satisfactorily. When pinching the last
time a number of the tops of the shoots should be inserted in 3 or
4 inch pots, say from five to seven cuttings in each. These when well
managed make very handsome little plants to stand near the edge of
the stage, and well repay any little trouble they may entail. They
should not be stopped after being rooted or grown in strong heat, but
treated similarly in every respect to those in larger pots. Plumbagos
will do well in cold frames for a time during the hottest month of the
year, but must not be allowed to remain in them when the nights turn
cold. The plants soon show signs of being starved by the short-jointed
wood they commence to make. This being perceptible, they must at
once be removed to warmer quarters, where the temperature will not
fall below 55°, which will suit them until they come into flower.

During the growing season the plants require a good supply of water
both at the roots and upon the foliage, with frequent applications of
liquid manure when they have filled their flowering-pots with roots.
Thrip and red-spider frequently attack them if allowed to sufi'er for
want of water at any time ; but if they do not get a check, and the
syringe is freely used, the spider can be kept down.

The old P. rosea, in addition to this variety, although not so strik-
ing in colour, is really worth growing. Wm. Baedney.

A PLEA FOE- HARDY FLORIST'S FLOWERS.

The term florist's flowers has a somewhat wide range of meaning.
For instance, we have florists who would allow only a few species
within the circle to which they would give this name — as the Auricula,
the Polyanthus, the Carnation, the Tulip, and a few others, which
were long held as the very elite among common flowers. We have
others again who attach a wider meaning to the term, and include
recognised flowers of much shorter standing in their list ; but even
amongst those who have done the greatest service in bringing such
flowers as the Phlox, Pentstemon, and Pansy to their present per-

378 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

fection, we see a dislike to any improvements taken in hand at a later
time ; and as for going back to single forms of double flowers, as in
the case of the Pyrethram and the Dahlia, it is a thing they cannot
tolerate. This spirit of setting up a standard of excellence, and work-
ing for and up to it, is a good one. Through this spirit all the im-
provements we have to-day in flowers have been attained. Even
amongst those who sneer at the florists and their doings, the same
spirit is noticeable. Though they do not condescend to notice flowers
which the florist has set his stamp upon, except in a more or less
depreciatory way, we yet have them praising others which show an im-
provement in size, form, or colour, or all three.

In bringing the merits of hardy florist's flowers before the num-
erous readers of the ' Gardener,' I do not think it at all advisable
to stick to any hard and fast line as to what constitutes such flowers.
They are yearly increasing in numbers. A lover of flowers here, and
another somewhere else, make a favourite of a plant, seed it — find that
it breaks into various colours, and that its habit of growth is improved
— until by-and-by another flower has been added to the ranks of the
florist's types. The common bedding Viola, for instance, has not as
yet attained to the standard of what may be called a florist's flower, but
there is just a possibility of its doing so. The number of really effec-
tive bedders capable of flowering till Geraniums give in, may be
counted on five fingers ; the great majority, therefore, are grown for
some peculiarity of colour, or habit, or time of blooming in early
spring. But the other day a gentleman who has been in the front
rank as a hybridiser of Violas, showed me blooms which had all the
points of good florist's flowers, though the individual size was not
larger than a shilling. Another instance of a flower which has been
made to yield a great variety in form, habit, and colour, of late
years : Aubrietia grseca is generally well known as a lilac-flowered
species. A gentleman took to it, and has now all shades of
colour up to rich crimson, with larger flowers and great variety in
habit. Of course these do not constitute Aubrietia gr^eca a florist's
flower, but it yields an instance of how plants may be brought on to
rank as such.

To the great majority of gardeners florist's flowers must be tested by
their suitability as decorative plants and the simplicity of their cul-
ture. Not one gardener out of a hundred can or ought to trouble
himself as to the nice points which exercise the mind of the florist
proper. His employer does not want him to know, and on his own
part there is no necessity that the knowledge should be attained. The
gentleman whose gardener gives him unlimited numbers of Pansies,
or Phloxes, or Gladioli, in the greatest number of varieties possible,
and cultivated in the best manner, has something to be thankful
for, no doubt. But we would prefer the garden where a great
number of flowers of this type were grown, and where a dozen or two

i88i.] ORCHARD-HOUSES. 379

dozen of the best sorts of each were substituted for collections of
varieties — and so, we have no doubt, would most owners of gardens.
Many people are now anxious to get together a collection of hardy-
flowering border plants. The wish is a good one. Small gardens
especially should be rich in these, and gardens of a larger size should
most certainly have selections added to their floral stores. But it is
well to bear in mind that the number of really fine hardy herbaceous
plants is limited to a small percentage of the whole ; and to remember
that although a border may be filled with a great number of species,
out of that number a large quantity may not add anything to the
beauty of the whole. I would therefore enter a plea for the extended
cultivation of hardy florist's flowers. There are really very few species
which can compete in effectiveness and usefulness with the varieties
of these. If you plant in a border representative collections of
Phloxes, Hollyhocks, Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, PjTethrums double
and single. Auriculas of the alpine section, Pinks, Carnations,
Picotees, Delphiniums, Gladioli, Tulips, Sweet-williams, Anemones,
Irises, Ranunculus, Potentiilas, Roses, and other hardy flowers which
the florist has improved, you have .at once the certainty of obtaining
a fine display of flowers. In those instances where there is not much
space for hardy flowers, I would give these the preference to any
other flowers, as they are sure to give the best return for space and
labour. At the same time, where labour cannot be spared to cul-
tivate these as they ought to be cultivated in order to do them
bare justice, it would be quite as well to stick in anything that comes
ready to hand into your borders, and allow them to struggle amongst
themselves for the mastery ; but such a state of things is hardly gar-
dening. Everything is improved by intelligent attention and good
cultivation. With florist's flowers these are necessary to their enjoy-
ment. R. P. B.

ORCHARD - HOUSES.

The disappointments of past years enhance the value of glass
protection for hardy fruits; and the value of walls, unprotected
by glass, is lessened to a great extent. Our experience is that walls
are very expensive items in the first place, and seldom give good
interest for the outlay. Taking all things into consideration, we think
walls, in the ordinary sense, should be things of the past. Well-man-
aged orchard-houses give good value every year : they take up little
space, are very pleasant objects in gardens, and are of much value for
protection to other produce than that of fruits. Most people know
this ; but I think it an undecided question whether trained trees or
those grown in pots are the most productive and give least labour. I
would fall in with the trained trees — believing that most fruit can be
had from such — arched over about 3 or 4 feet under the glass, and

380 THE GARDENER. [Aug.

dwarf espaliers along the sides of tlie structure. If there is a back
wall, it of course would be well covered with trees in the usual
manner. Some would prefer the pots and small bushes, for the sake
of having a great variety ; but that wish can be met by the use of
cordons — single, double, or triple. A cordon tree, laden with
Peaches, Plums, or Pears, is no mean object ; and it does not require
much root-cutting or other manipulation to attain this. A firm bed of
stones, in which the roots may be partially confined, will keep them
free from rank growth, and manure-water can be given ad lib. Wher-
ever I have seen this system of dwarfing trees carried out systemati-
cally, abundance of fruit, fine foliage, and very short stiff growths have
followed. I have always preferred trees planted out to those in pots.
They require less labour, are not so susceptible of injury by root-
starving or vice ve?'sd, and the expense of pots is saved. Some think
that they cannot be kept to size when out of pots, and would not be
kept uniform all round. But when they are prepared to remain dwarfs,
they can be kept so a great length of time. I managed some trees
with the best results that had for a time been in pots, and afterwards
planted out in hard ground, ramming the soil firmly all round the
roots, like potting a Heath. They became such a nest of healthy
roots that they could be lifted and turned round, to prevent one-
sidedness, as easily as if they had been in pots. The weight, size, and
colour of the fruit were such as I never saw by any other means
of culture. Boss.

DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATIOH".

A MEETING of the members of this Association was held in the Templar Hall,
Reform Street, on Friday evening, the 1st ult. — the President, Mr David Doig,
Rossie Priory Gardens, in the chair. There was the usual full attendance.
Mr Robert Wilkie, Duncarse Gardens, read a paper on "The Cultivation of
the Peach under Glass." In opening his subject, Mr Wilkie explained that the
Peach was supposed to be a native of Persia. It was known to, and cultivated
successfully by, the Egyptians about two thousand years ago, but appears
only to have found its way into this country some time in the sixteenth cen-
tury. The Peach, notwithstanding its three hundred years' sojourn in our
climate, had not materially changed its character; it still retained its habit
of early flowering, and this habit, combined with the early spring frosts —
unfortunately too familiar to most of us — has rendered the cultivation of this
excellent fruit a subject of considerable difficulty and anxiety. Mr Wilkie
then treated of the various devices used for protecting the early bloom.
These in earlier times were many and various ; but since the reduction in
the price of glass, almost all had been superseded by the erection of " Peach-
houses " of more or less pretensions. The most approved style of Peach-houses,
and the mode of preparing the border, heating, &c., were then explained ; after
which jMr Wilkie, in an able, interesting, and remarkably lucid manner, treated
in detail the whole system of Peach-culture. On some points he difl"ered con-

i8Si.] DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCLVTION. 381

siderably from many Peach-growers. At no time did he approve of letting the
temperature of the Peach-house fall below the freezing-point. During frosty
weather he applied fire-heat just sufficient to keep out the frost, and in dull
cold days he found it better to heat the pipes and open the ventilators, rather
than to have the house shut close to keep up the temperature. Fumigating
with tobacco required some care ; too dense a cloud would sometimes cause
the tree to cast both fruit and leaves. It was much better to fumigate
slightly two or three nights in succession ; or by taking advantage of a dull
day, to keep the house in a smoky condition for six or eight hours. A
smoke which can be dimly seen through, if maintained for that time, will
destroy every living aphis in the house, and do no injury to the most tender
flowers or foliage. He never practised evening syringing on Peaches, or on
plants of any kind whose foliage is exposed to the full blaze of the sun
through undimmed glass, being of opinion that the leaves were thereby made
tender and less able to bear the heat of the following day. In dry sunny
weather he usually syringed copiously in the early morning, and with such
treatment he succeeded in retaining fine healthy foliage, free from insect-
pests of all sorts. A considerable discussion followed the reading of this
paper — some points being closely criticised. Mr Wilkie showed, however, by
a splendid specimen of the fruit grown under his care, that his treatment,
however different from other successful growers, could well afford to stand
upon its own merits.

Mr AVilliam Alison, Seaview Gardens, Monifieth, then read a paper on
" Exotic Ferns." " These plants," he said, "might be considered as remnants
of the vegetation of a past era in the history of the earth, — geology having
shown that they existed in great numbers and variety at a date long prior
to the present era. But a very few years ago, Ferns found only scant favour
amongst cultivated exotic plants. In this, however, as in many other matters,
public taste had improved much; and now it was not enough that our gardens
were gay with masses of colour — grace also was appreciably demanded.
When this improved taste began to displace the taste for mere gaudiness which
too long held sway among the refined, as it did amongst the unrefined stiJl,
Ferns were sought for, cultivated, and used as decorative plants. It was no
wonder that this was so. In no other class of plants did they find the same
inimitable grace or exquisite lacing in form, enough of themselves to charm
and to cheer any one with a true love for the beautiful in plants. Ferns en-
hanced an hundred-fold the beauty of the choicest gems of cut-flow^ers, when
judiciously arranged with them. So much were they now appreciated, that
no plant-house or dwelling-house, from the drawing or dining room to the
lady's boudoir, was considered complete without them, either as plants or cut
fronds. To lovers of the beautiful in nature, no other plant could rival the
Fern in cheering the homes of those who were confined to the smoky city."

Mr Alison then spoke at some length on the cultivation of Ferns in the
fernery or greenhouse. The great poihts-in the successful cultivation of Ferns,
was to see that they never sutfered for want of water, and that they had a suit-
able moist atmosphere, with light, heat, and air, according to their various
constitutioms. He did not approve of syringing the plants overhead, unless
in exceptional cases ; and such varieties as Todeas, Hymenophyllums, &c.,
Gymnogrammas, Nothochenas, &c., were sure to suffer both in health and
appearance by having their fronds syringed or wetted in any w'ay. Except
for the purely peat -loving varieties of Ferns, he did not approve of using
X)eat, preferring instead a good rich loam, well mixed with sharp sand, horse-

38:

THE GARDENER.

[Aug.

(iroppint,^^, and charcoal ; with the addition of a little flaky leaf- mould, if
the loam was of a tenacious nature. The dung should be thoroughly dried, and
broken into small pieces before being used. In this mixture he found such
sorts as Adiantums, Gymnogrammas, Lygodiums, Aspleniums, Pterises,
Lomarias, and the diirerent species of Tree-Ferns, &c., thrive remarkably well,
making a fine strong growth of firm texture. Bone-dust and cow-urine he
found very beneficial in stimulating growth ; but the latter should be used
only in the case of pot-bound plants, and much diluted with pure water. In
potting Ferns he used a much larger })roportion of crocks than for any other
class of plants, Orchids excepted. When insect -pests make an appearance,
the plants should be sponged or syringed with a solution of soft-soap and
warm water, using clear water to finish with. This he considered the best
and cheapest insecticide extant, prepared in a proportion of about 2 to 3 oz.
of soap to a gallon of water. iSyringing such plants as Crotons, Dracaenas,
Gardenias, Azaleas, and Pelargoniums, &c. , once a fortnight with this mixture,
gives the foliage of the plants a fine healthy tone, and keeps insects in check.
In speaking of the various means of projiagating Ferns, Mr Alison said he
had been very successful in raising young plants of many ditferent species in
a small propagating-case in the plant-stove. There, over a heated chamber,
the spores were sown on a bed of cocoa-nnt fibre about 4 inches in depth.
Germination quickly took place, and the young plants grew rapidly, seeming
to luxuriate in the additional warmth at their roots. Several exhibits in the
way of cut-fiowers were also before the meetings-notable among which was
a splendid flowering stem of Lilium giganteum, from Rossie Priory Gardens.
After the usual votes of thanks the meeting separated.

©aUntrat*

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — The cold and sunless weather
which has so generally been experi-
enced all-through June and the early
part of July has prevented Pines in all
stages from making such progress as
they generally do ; and in consequence,
stock intended for fruiting early next
year should now have all the encour-
agement possible, so that they may
well fill their pots with roots, and
make well-matured plants before au-
tumn. Let the night temperature for
these range from 70° to 75°, according
to the state of the weather. Keep the
air moist, in proportion as the weather
is bright and warm. Shut the pits up
early in the afternoon, so that the heat
ranges from 85° to 90^ for a time.
Put air on in the morning before the
heat touches 80", and gradually increase
it till noon. Watering must be care-
fully attended to, never allowing the soil
to become very dry. Colour the water

with guano every time of watering.
It is a good practice to water alter-
nately with guano and sheep-manure
water. Plants intended to make a
growth in spring before starting — and
which invariably produce the best
fruit — should not be pushed on quite
so rapidly, but have a temperature a
few degrees lower. Smooth Cayennes
and other late sorts now out of bloom
and swelling freely, must be encour-
aged with liquid manure and a moist
atmosphere. Shut them up as early
as it is safe to do so, in order to run the
heat up to about 95° for a time, and
so reduce the necessity for fire-heat for
the night to a minimum. Give air freely
to fruit that are ripening, and do not
dry them oil at the root, as is some-
times mistakenly done. Pines starved
at ripening -time at this season are
never so fine and juicy. If they are
aired freely, they will not lack in point

8Si.]

CALENDAR.

383

of flavour. Any portion of the stock
that are well - rooted in 8-inch pots,
should now be shifted into 10- and 11-
inch pots, according to their strength, I
and be encouraged to grow freely for the j
next three months. Pot suckers from
l)lants that have ripened or are ripen-
ing their fruit. Put strong -growing
varieties into 7- and 8-inch, and Queens
into 6-inch pots : drain the pots well,
and use a rather light loam. Plunge in
a bottom-heat of 90^ ; shade for a few
days, and keep the air close and moist
until they root and begin to grow,
when they must be aired freely to keep
them stocky.

Vines. — If early vineries in which
the wood is thoroughly ripened re-
quire painting or repairing, or any al-
terations in the way of heating, now is
a good time to attend to such matters.
Should the weather be dry, late Grapes
that are swelling off and just begin-
iug to colour should have their bor-
ders well watered with manure-water,
and mulching of some sort, if it has
not been already ai)plied. Put a
little extra heat into the pipes should
the weather be dull and damp ; and
never neglect having a circulation of
fresh air about them night and day.
Remember that nearly all black sorts
colour best in a dense shade, and
do not pinch the lateral growth too
rigidly. Muscats and other white
sorts, on the other hand, colour best
with a free play of light about them.
Keep ripe Grapes as cool as possible,
and protect them from wasps and flies,
by fixing hexagon netting over the
ventilation openings. Keep a vigilant
eye on Vines in all stages, and see
that red-spider is never allowed to
damage the foliage. No doubt some
localities are more favourable to this
pest than others ; but the chief encour-
agers of spider are too dry borders
and too much flre-heat. We have a
Black Hamburg house that ripens its
crop in August, on the cool and airy
system of treatment ; and for seven
years it has never been syringed once,
nor has there ever been a red-spider in
it to our knowledge. Syringing Vines
and the surrounding of them with a
damp close atmosphere, we regard as
one of the most fertile causes of unsat-
isfactory results in Vine-growing. And,
unless to check red-s[)ider, we would
never practise syringing. It thea be-
comes the lesser of two evils. Should

any of the Vines from which the fruit
is now all cut have their roots down
deep, and are inconsequence not matur-
ing satisfactory crops, now is a good
time to take out a trench in front of
the borders. Lift the roots 4 or 5 feet
back, and lay them in good soil, at the
same time taking all inert soil off the
surface of the border down to the roots,
and laying about 8 inches of fresh loam,
horse - droppings, and crushed bones
over them. It is astonishing how
Vine -roots can be attracted to and
multiplied near the surface by fi-esh
loam and manure. Pot-Vines intended
to fruit early next year, should by this
time have their wood brown and well
ripened. Expose them to as much sun
and as free a circulation of air as pos-
sible, and never let them get too dry
at the root. Remove all young lateral
growth that they may attempt to pro-
duce after the first of this month, but
preserve the main leaves in health
to the last : avoid the practice of plac-
ing them outdoors, in positions where
high winds may destroy their foliage
prematurely.

Peaches.— Look carefully over all
trees from which the crop has been
gathered; and if there are more shoots
than are necessary for properly furnish-
ing the trees for another year's crop,
remove them, so that all the air and
light possible may get at every leaf
and shoot. See that these do not
suffer from dryness at the root if the
weather be droughty ; and if the foli-
age is infested with red-spider, syringe
or engine them freely — putting a hand-
ful of sulphur in the water — till the
enemy disappears. It is of the utmost
importance that the foliage be kept
healthy to the last, or the buds will
not be matured as they should be.
Let sun and air play freely about rip-
ening crops. If any of the fruits be
shaded with leaves, fix them aside.
Examine the fruits every day, and
gather them before they drop. Fruit
to be sent direct to table for dessert,
should not be gathered until a very
gentle -pressure removes it from the
tree ; but when to be sent to a distance
— especially if to market — they should
be gathered earlier, or the chances are
that they do not travel well. Late
crops in cool houses should have lib-
eral waterings, until they begin to
ripen.
Figs. — Early trees, on which a second

384

THE GARDENER.

[Aug,

crop is now swelling, should be liberally
supplied with manure- water until they
begin to ri])en, when less will be ne-
cessary. When ripening, keep the air ,
dry, and give abundance of it. Early
pit-trees, from which their second crop ;
may be gathered by the end of this j
month, snould be kept as cool as pos- j
sible ; give them an occasional syr-
inging to keep the foliage clean, and
see that they are never allowed to
snller for waut of water at the root.
Any shoots not considered necessary
should be removed at once.

Melons. — Attend to the impreg-
nation of late crops, and do not let
the shoots and foliage become crowded.
Expose ripening fruits to all the sun
possible, and do not let the soil become
very dry before they are quite ripe.
See that crops swelling oil' are well
supplied with water in bright weather.
An occasional good soaking is prefer-
able to more frequent light waterings.
It is a good practice to cover the sur-
face of the soil with manure as soon
as the crop is set.

Cucumbers.— Those that have been
bearing all summer may now be par-
tially cut back, removing all fruit, and
leaving the young growth, and be to])-
dressed with some rich manure. If
kept at 75'' at night and moist, they

will soon grow freel}'-, and begin to
bear, and give a supply of aiitumn
Cucumbers. Look over those in frames,
and remove all superfluous growths
and leaves, and give them a dewing
overhead on line bright afternoons.
About the middle of this month sow
seeds of Telegraph or some approved
sort for winter- bearing, or they may
be produced from healthy cuttings at
the end of the month. Either way
they should be early enough to be
well established while the days are
comparatively long, and not much
hre-heat is required.

Strawberries in Pots.— If these
were shifted into their fruiting-pots
last month as we recommended, they
will now be making rapid growth. If
the weather be warm and dry they
will take liberal supplies of water, and
as the pots get well filled with roots,
give occasional waterings of manure-
water. See that they are not allowed
to become crowded, but give them
room enough to keep the foliage well
apart. They should be standing in
an open situation, and on a porous dry
bottom, into which the roots must not
be allowed to penetrate. On line
evenings sprinkle them overhead with
clean water, and keep them free from
weeds and runners.

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

If this month should be warm, gar-
dens, like fields, will reap advantage
from such agreeable weather. The
great advantage of having all things
well forward before the short and
colder days come round, are reasons
which make tine weather specially
desirable during the next two months.
The "push" of labour will be well
over — though seldom is there a scarcity'-
of work in a well - managed garden.
Thorough cleaning and surface - stir-
ring should take place during this
month, so that nothing in the way
of weeds may escape detection. Al-
lowing them to seed gives a store
of extra labour for the next season.
Where order cannot be maintained,
extent of ground should be circum-
scribed, and all unnecessary ornate
portions should be dispensed with ;
order and neatness should be special-
ities at the present time. No ground
should be vacant an hour longer than
is necessary to prepare it for crops.

; Scarcity of labour-power is observ-
able in most gardens at the present
time; many which were conspicuous
for order and good keeping are now
notable for weeds and all that is objec-
tionable. This being in the power of
proprietors alone to avert, cultivators
of such gardens can only complain or
protest and struggle on — too often
sharing the discredit while they are un-
blamable. The highly cultivated and
fine crop - producing market - gardens
stand out in many cases prominently
as examples to be imitated, simply be-
cause it does not pay to attempt what
cannot be well done. A field clean,
orderly, and thoroughly cropped, is far
more creditable than the walk divided,
and prim - bordered kitchen - gardens
ill many cases clothed as much by
weeds as good esculents, — thus making
a burlesque of what was intended to
afford pleasure, as well as to give good
returns for labour expended.

Arrears in planting must now have

i88i.'

CALENDAR.

185

attention. Where winter crops have
been well pricked out, preparatory to
transplanting, ground where Pota-
toes, early Onions, Peas, and Beans
are removed, may be put in order at
once fai" some of the Brassica class —
Turnips, Spinach, or Lettuce — as de-
mand may dictate. Draw drills for all
things planted out ; thoroughly water
at first ; draw some dry surface-soil
over the newly watered portion, and—
except in rare cases — no further water-
log is necessary : dribbling instead of
a soaking means entire defeat of the
object in view. When small seeds are
to be sown, give the space a watering
the night previous, and set to woik
sowing the fo lowing morning. The
clearance of crops should not be left
till the last portions are gathered ; a
littery appearance and delay are caused
by such false economy. Market-men
cannot be easily imitated by private
growers in clearing off the crop — sell-
ing it, and manuring and cropping the
ground the same day ; still the op-
posite extreme may be avoided as far
as possible. Artichokes should not be
left on the plants to flower; better to
cut them and put what are not required
in the manure - heap than allow the
plants to suffer. Asparagus in full
growth should not be allowed to be-
come crowded : the plants to be forced
are all the better for their purpose
w^hen they are kept thin. Broccoli
may be planted from the store-beds or
borders ; but one must consider to
what extent they are justified in plant-
ing this precarious crop, which has
been so generally destroyed during
the past three seasons. Stiff slowly
grown plants are most likely to stand
severe weather — and when planted on
ground which has not been broken up
for some time, they have a hardier con-
stitution ; but this, or laying them down
in autumn, did not save many last
year ; and except those which came
from the Channel Islands and Cornwall,
the market supply was at a minimum
for quantity or quality.

Cabbage may be planted in quantity
for autumn sup[)lies. AVhere those
which had the heads cut from them
are to stand for autumn and winter
supplies, the plantation of successions
are of less importance ; but a brake
of nice Coleworts or healthy young
Cabbage in autumn has a fine appear-
ance in a garden, and is very service-

able. Sow for next season's supply
from middle to end of mouth. In
southern localities a sowing in Sep-
tember is valuable. Cauliflower may
be sown towards the end of month
for early supplies. They are, when
fit to handle, transplanted on Arm
ground, to be afterwards covered by
a frame or other protection ; but glass
should not be used till the state of
the weather makes it absolutely neces-
sary, "Coddling" is often a greater
destructive agent than absence of
protection w'hen plants have been
prepared for it : shelter on a west or
south border suits well in some locali-
ties. Celery should be earthed-up for
early supplies. Give a soaking of
manure-water, then follow it with a
drenching of clean water overhead.
Keep the hearts clean when earthing
is going on, and the stems should be
u]iright. Mulch lately planted lots ;
short grass answers when no better
material is at hand. More may be
planted : though it may not grow to
large size, it will be firm and sweet,
and ver}^ servicable. Lettuce and
Endive sow twice during the month.
Thin and plant former sowings. A
stock of Batavian Endive will be found
a useful addition to the salads w^hen
good Lettuce is not easily had.
The nutty flavour of Batavian Endive
is generally appreciated, and the plants
are verj^ hardy. Onions may be sown
from middle to end of month, accord-
ing to localit3\ Some sow as late as
September, but it is not safe to risk
late sowings in late localities. The
Onion crop is often ready to lift during
this month, but seldom is it quite
ready before September. Bulbs fully
developed may be helped in the ma-
turing process by twisting the necks
— and we have known some to tread
down the tops to prevent late sappy
growth ; by such aids to maturation
the keeping of the crop is materially
enhanced. Peas for growing under
glass may be sown — dwarf kinds, of
course, A quantity may be sown on
an early border, and when well for-
ward they can be protected with
frames. In pits the same practice
may be carried out, and the lights left
off till the crop requires their aid.
The same answers well with French
Beans — only they are tender and re-
quire an amount of warmth later in
the season, O.sbora's, Williams', and

386

THE GARDENER.

[Aug. 1 88 1.

Kewinyton AVonder are very suitable
kinds for this purpose,

Spinacli may uow be sown in large
breadths for wiuter and s])ring use.
Prickly Spinach is the sort generally
used for this purpose, but round S[)in-
ach is often found to stand well and
be of much service. Sow both on
deeply trenched well-maniired ground.
A quantity of old road-parings, turf,
or other loose material, turned into the
surface a spade deep, acts as drainage ;
and when all" gets consolidated in
spring, the Spinach makes immense
leaves of tine quality. Coal-ash sift-
ings mixed with a little soot scattered
over the newly sowu surface acts as a
preventive to vermin taking up their |
quarters. Spinach transplanted in I
September in well -prepared ground
does well and is hardy. Potatoes may !
be lifted as soon as they are fit, and
those wanted for seed may lie in the
sun to become green. Get the ground
speedily prepared for winter crops, —
not a yard should be vacant at this
season, except where ground is super-
abundant— then it may remain vacant.

It is no use cropping to waste the
I)ro(luce ; and as to selling it, few
would advise such a course. The
requirements to carry on successful
marketing are numerous, and only
where ground can be treated on mar-
ket principles can it give proper remu-
neration. Sow plenty of early stove
Turnips and Carrots for drawing
young. Make ]\Iushroom-beds out-
side on spare ground. Thin and trans-
])lant Parsley. Pv^emove coarse leaves
so that a young stiti' growth may be
formed for wiuter. We never had
better Parsley than during the past
spring, and that was from crops se-
verely trimmed last autumn. The
Fern-leaved is exceedingly pretty and
hardy. We always find it safe to save
a quantity of seed from selected plants.
Forced vegetables will now have to
be considered, and a proper arrange-
ment made with pits, &c., to keep up
successions of French Beans, Potatoes,
young Carrots, small salads, Radishes,
&c. Protect at night any tender crop
if frost should show itself.

M. T.

— a-^^s-^^^^-

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion iu the ' Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We
decline noticing anij communication which is not accompanied with name and
address of writer.

J. W. B.— 1. Clematis, Mrs Batemau ; 2. Clerodendron fallax ; 3. TydaBa,
but cannot say which, there being so many varieties ; 4. Rivinia humilis ;
5. Davalia hemiptera ; Adiantum caudatum.

M. L. B. — We suspect that in your dry hot climate your Vines are being
starved : see a short article in our present issue on feeding Vines. Give plenty
of water, as well as manui-e, provided your drainage is thoroughly efficient.

P. M. — Certainly, if you can spare time, and provided you do not want to
save any seed, it will be better removed from your Rhododendrons.

THE

GARDENER

SEPTEMBER 1881.

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF WALL ■ BORDERS IN
KITCHEJSr - GARDENS.

NO. TX. — EEMAEKS ON FRUIT-TREES.

RAVING written at some length upon the subject of crop-
ping the various borders with vegetables, I propose, in
conclusion, to offer a few remarks on the most suitable
fruit-trees for the different aspects. In doing so, I shall
not rely entirely upon my own experience, preferring
rather to write upon what I have seen practised in good gardens by
more experienced men.

The Ajyricot. — Owing to the great diversity of climate and soils in this
country, it is beyond my power to give advice applicable to gardens
generally, as there are some species and varieties of fruits which thrive
admirably in one locality and yet fail completely in another, the treat-
ment being similar in each case. The Apricot, perhaps, is the most
fickle of the species. Not merely does it vary in different counties ;
but I have known instances where it has proved profitable, while
in other gardens in the same parish, under ordinary treatment, it
cannot be induced to grow to a serviceable size. It would appear to
be most " at home " in the Midlands, notably Leicestershire and some
parts of Derbyshire. There it may be seen growing on the cottagers'
houses as freely as do Plums and Grape - vines in more southern
localities ; and as Apricots are very delicious, they are, as a matter of
course, of a greater marketable value than either Plums or open-air
Grapes.

2 c

388 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

It is useless to attempt growing Apricots on a strong clayey loam,
and in gardens where this naturally abounds, it is absolutely neces-
sary to excavate the border to a depth of 3 or 4 feet, to drain well,
and refill with a much lighter compost, employing as much turf cut
from a light soil as possible. This was performed here many years
ago, and the Apricots have well repaid the outlay. In a large
garden near here, where this has not been carried out, the trees in a
short time invariably fail. Where the soil is naturally sandy and
open, but little preparation is needed, though it is advisable to drain
and to trench the ground. But little manure should be employed for
the young trees, as a too free use of this induces an objectionable coarse-
ness of growth. When in full bearing, or if the trees appear impover-
ished, freely fork in manure in the autumn or early winter, and mulch
heavily in the spring. No particular site is necessary, at least in the
more southern counties. Competent authorities recommend a south
aspect for the Apricot in the more northern parts of Great Britain,
and somewhat cooler sites in the more southern districts. Here, for
instance, there are strong fruitful trees growing against walls of west,
south-east, and south aspects ; those in the last situation being most
profitable, simply because the trees have the benefit of protection by
glass copings and curtains. (These copings are of great service, and
soon repay for original outlay. Sharp span-roofed houses, on Dr
Newington's model, would, if water was abundant, be always pre-
ferred, however, not only for Apricots, but also for Peaches, Nectarines,
Plums, and Cherries.) A hot and dry position is really unfavourable
to the production of extra -good fruit, as they are liable to ripen
prematurely and unevenly, the quality being inferior accordingly.
Where this is found to be the case, the roots should be heavily mulched
with manure in May ; receive copious waterings during the prevalence
of dry weather; and if a fish-net doubled, or blinds of canvas, frigi-
dom(>> or other shading material, be hung over the trees when bright
sunshine prevails at ripening time, it will equalise the ripening of the
fruit — that is to say, it will be less likely to mellow on the side most
exposed to the sun while yet hard on that next the wall. Some of the
most luscious fruit I have yet tasted were ripened under Russian mats,
which were hung over, but at a good distance from, the trees, to retard
ripening.

During September and early in October the planting of Apricots
is best performed, and before they have shed their foliage, as they
will then form fresh rootlets, and to a certain extent be recovered for
a good start in the following spring. The varieties recommended for
the country generally are Early Moorpark, Large Early, Hemskirk,
and Moorpark. Apricots, more especially the Moorpark, after active
growth has commenced, are liable to suddenly lose large branches, to
the extent, frequently, of fully one-quarter of the tree. This is very
discouraging, the more so seeing how superior, according to my experi-

i88i.] WALL-BORDERS IN KITCHEN-GARDENS. 389

ence, the fruit of the Moorpark are to other varieties. According to
one of our highest pomological authorities, this arises "from in-
juries received by frost either in spring or early summer, or in winter
after a wet autumn, when the wood has not properly ripened." As
I understand it, neither solution is scarcely correct. We have lost
a large main branch of a tree of Moorpark, and it certainly was not
injured by frost in the spring, as the tree was well protected, and the
sound part perfected a crop of excellent fruit. It was the old wood
evidently that first collapsed, and this we would suppose to be but
little affected by a wet autumn ; and I fail to see how the latter theory
stands good, unless, indeed, the branch was imperfectly ripened when
laid in about eight years since. The disease, to my thinking, is still
a mystery.

Figs. — These are given a pretty good trial in gardens in various
districts, but as yet I have not seen many good fruit ripened, save
only along the south coast of England. Some parts of Sussex espe-
cially seems to suit the Fig, as there I have gathered large quantities
of fine fruit from standard trees, as well as wall-trained specimens.
As a rule, garden soil is much too strong for the Fig, this inducing
luxuriant growth, which ripens badly, and is easily injured by frost.
Here, for instance, a south-west wall is given up to them, and yet, in
spite of protection in the shape of good Spruce Fir branches, the
whole of the young growth and much of the old wood was killed by
the frost last winter; and for years previous but few fruit were
secured. The grandest and most fruitful Fig-trees I have yet seen,
either under glass or in the open, were trained up a steep concrete
railway embankment at the base of one of the cliffs near Dover. They
were owned by a fisherman, and were planted in very chalky soil
brought in baskets from the cliffs. This chalky soil induced the
formation of remarkably sturdy, short-jointed growth, that annually
yielded much valuable fruit, which was sent to London as well as
Dover. High tides sometimes washed the soil from the roots, and
an unusually high tide completely ruined them. Pears failed under
the same culture. The conditions, then, most favourable to the pro-
fitable outdoor culture of the Fig are a hot sunny position, none
being better than where they are often found — viz., in the angles or
curves formed by the junction of south and west walls ; and a limited
border, well drained, composed of somewhat light and poor soil, with
which has been incorporated a liberal quantity of chalk or old mortar-
rubbish and broken bricks. If thinly trained, the growth formed
under these conditions would be very fruitful and nearly hardy, — all
the protection needed in the majority of winters being either Fir
branches or Russian mats fixed over the growths after these have
been collected somewhat. The Brown Turkey is the most profitable
variety to grow ; and if a green variety, the small White Marseilles
should have the preference. The Negro Largo is a very prolific dark

390 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

variety, and probably would succeed in the open, in favourable local-
ities. I intend to give it a trial here. Figs may be planted any time
before active growth commences. W. Iggulden.

STOVE VINCAS.

These old inhabitants of our stoves are neglected plants in many gar-
dens, and in the majority entirely discarded. It is to be regretted that
such good and useful plants are cast aside to make room for others of
perhaps less beauty and use. Few plants are easier grown, or attain a
good size quicker, if subjected to liberal treatment All the stove varie-
ties make capital plants for exhibition purposes, and look magnificent
amongst a collection of flowering-plants, when well grown and neatly
trained. They are even more striking in a collection of plants, especi-
ally V. alba and V. occulata, than many other plants grown for the
purpose and exhibited. Not only are they useful for exhibition, but
admirably adapted for home decoration during the whole or greater
portion of the year. They come quickly into bloom, and can be flow-
ered early in the year; and with judicious care, and a number of
plants, a succession of bloom can be maintained through the whole
summer and winter months. It is during the autumn and winter that
they are of the greatest value : a few plants of V. alba, with its snow-
white flowers, are very striking, and harmonise well with the bril-
liant flowers and bracts of Poinsettias, Euphorbias, and Plumbagos.
Many winter-flowering stove-plants have their flowers other than white ;
and any useful plant that will produce white flowers at that season of
the year should be grown in quantity. The Vinca is useful for cut-
ting, though few perhaps give it credit as being serviceable for this
purpose, as their flowers individually last only a short time — but,
being produced in quick succession, they are admirably fitted for
cutting. The shoots remain fresh in water for several weeks, and con-
tinue to develop their blooms.

Vincas are readily propagated by cuttings at any season of the year.
The young shoots are preferable, and root quickly when placed in
heat : it is not necessary to place them under bell-glasses or in propa-
gating-frames to obtain a successful strike. Most of the cuttings will
root if shaded from direct sunshine, and strike with such certainty
that they should be placed singly in small 2 - inch pots. When
• placed thickly together in pots, they are frequently left to grow
together until their roots become matted, and when potted singly
they are severely checked. Quick-rooting subjects are therefore best
placed at first in small pots. When well rooted, the points of the
young plants should be taken out to induce them to branch ; and when
signs of growth are again visible, they should be placed in 4-inch pots.
The drainage should be liberal, and the soil only pressed moderately

i88i.] STOVE VINCAS. 391

firm into the pots. Potting must be done from time to time when the
plants are ready ; and if specimen plants are required, those selected
for that purpose should be placed in 7-inch and then in 10-inch pots,
which will be large enough the first season. When small decorative
plants only are required, 6-inch pots are large enough, and the shoots
should be kept well pinched until placed in that size. They should
then be allowed to come into flower, and will continue for a long time;
and should be thrown away after flowering, to be succeeded by a later
batch of young plants. When growing for decoration during any
season of the year, young plants grown on to the desired size are pref-
erable to retaining old plants after blooming. When pinching the
shoots, a few of the toppings should be rooted, in order to maintain
a continuous supply. If they are to be grown into specimens,
some little discretion must be exercised in stopping and regulat-
ing the shoots as they progress ; but if neglected in this respect,
and allowed to grow unstopped, much time is wasted in laying the
foundation of creditable plants. The shoots must be brought down
to the rim of the pots, tying them to a few small stakes to keep them
in their place, which will be all the staking required the first season.
A good round bush will be produced by the end of the growing season
if propagated early; or better still, if rooted now, then a vigorous
start can be made early next year, and much larger plants produced
than if spring propagation is depended upon. Water should be liber-
ally supplied to Vincas ; in fact they should never be allowed to suffer
from the want of it at any time while growing, or the wood soon becomes
hardened, and growth is severely checked. Vincas are much improved,
and continue to flower over a greater space of time, if manure-water
is freely given them after the pots are full of roots. During the win-
ter the plants do not require nearly so much water, especially those
that have done flowering, and require to be kept through the winter
to be grown on again the second year. While resting, they should
have a temperature of 55°, and be kept moderately dry at the root —
only sufficient water being given to keep the wood from shrivelling
and the foliage from falling prematurely. They will stand being well
cut back in the spring — an operation which must be practised when
they have attained a suitable size, or they soon become unmanage-
able. Hard cutting back is not necessary the first season, and little
pruning will be required if attention is paid to stopping the shoots as
they grow ; nor should they be kept quite so dry at the root during
their first season of rest, as is beneficial when the plants have attained
a good large size, and have abundance of well-ripened wood. The
one-year-old plants should, if they do well, have a liberal shift early
the second season, when they will grow to a large size. If only
partially rested through the first season, the roots should not be much
disturbed when potting them. But when they have attained a suit-
able size, and have been well cut back, and have commenced again to

392 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

break into growth, they may be well reduced at potting-time, and re-
placed again in the same size of pot. The second season's treatment is
much the same as the first, only the plants can be allowed to flower
towards the end of summer, or early autumn of their growth. The
shoots should be stopped as they grow, and the growths supported
with a few stakes as they require it. When grown for exhibition, more
stakes will be required in training the plants than are necessary " when
grown entirely for home decoration," and the plants should be well
filled with young wood. The same shape should be adopted that is
common with Heaths when grown for exhibition.

The compost most suitable is rich loam, manure, and leaf -mould, with
plenty of coarse sand and a quantity of charcoal mixed with it, to keep
the whole porous. Vinca alba and its red-eyed variety V. occulata are
the two most worthy of being grown. V. rosea is not so serviceable,
and its flowers are not very brilliant in colour. Wm. Bardney.

WINTER VEGETABLES.

All kinds of vegetables are very nice and highly valued when they
become ready for use for the first time in spring and the early part of
the season ; but I do not think there is any time when a variety of
choice vegetables are more prized than throughout the winter. The
period to which I refer begins about the November term, and ends
about All-Fools'-Day. Maybe about the first-named date vegetables
may in many cases be plentiful ; but as the year wanes, especially
with an accompaniment of severe weather, supplies as a rule become
suddenly less, until many things are eaten with a relish which would
be quickly consigned to the dunghill at midsummer. Very often this
is not the gardener's fault, as none of us can set Jack Frost at defiance
with everything that we grow. Still with many things there is a pos-
sibility of doing much in the way of storing and protecting, but first
and foremost it is important that we have plenty to treat in these
ways. Empty quarters in the vegetable-garden are never creditable,
especially in autumn ; and although many may say vegetables are not
wanted in winter and spring, good crops of winter stuff are hardly
ever out of place. It is late now to try to make up for lost time in
the way of sowing, but on sheltered south borders Spinach, Late Tur-
nips, and Horn Carrots may still be sown, with a fair chance of their
becoming useful. Coleworts, too, may still be planted, to supply little
heads about the New Year and afterwards. The prickly-seeded winter
Spinach is one of the best crops any one can have from November
until March. It is very hardy, and very useful in the kitchen, and
one good patch of it gives a surprising quantity of leaves. We sow
it two or three times during both August and September, in rows 15

i88i.] WINTER VEGETABLES. 393

inches apart. Any good ordinary soil grows it well. As a late autumn
or Christmas crop, few things do better with us than a good patch of
July-planted Cabbage. Their heads in December are almost as nice
as they are from the autumn plants in April. Speaking of Cabbage
reminds me to say that where the demand for vegetables is large, few
things are more valuable than a constant supply of Cabbage — but how
seldom do we see this kept up ! As a rule, after the first spring lot
is cut, what follows is very inferior. Our spring Cabbage are
planted by themselves in a large patch in the autumn ; then the mid-
season ones grow between the Potato rows, and the autumn ones are
planted after the Potatoes have been cleared off. Where, however,
ground is scarce, and all these lots cannot be put in, those plants put
out in the autumn and cut at various times in spring will, if properly
treated, form a most useful lot for a supply of greens almost the round
of the season ; because, as each head is cut, if those left are not much
injured, from six to a dozen sprouts will be emitted from each, and
these growths make as good Cabbage when cooked as the main heads,
and sometimes they will produce a third crop after the second has been
cut. Kidney Beans are very pleasing in winter, but fresh ones from
the plants cannot often be had on the shortest day. Many cooks
salt them up in jars about this time, and those not in the secret can-
not tell them from fresh ones when they are put on the table weeks
or months afterwards. The Pvunner Beans are the best for salting,
and they must not be too old. Onions are a thorough all-the-year-
round vegetable, and the demand for them in winter is great, but
they are one of the easiest things to keep — only it is important that
they be well dried before taking them in, and September is the month
to do this. Any kind will keep throughout the winter, but for late
spring and early summer James's Keeping should be grown. Carrots,
Parsnips, Beetroot, and Turnips are the other chief roots for winter,
and Salsafy is also most useful.

Beetroot will not bear frost. Carrots are not benefited by it, and
the more tender kinds of Turnips are often destroyed by it, and care
should be taken that all of these are lifted from the ground and safely
stored before the frost has ever touched them. We are all rather liable
to think when it comes one frosty night that it will not last long, and
that our vegetables will take no harm ; but very often it lasts, and
lasts until much damage is done. Hence the reason for making sure
of at least part of the crop. Parsnips and Salsafy are much hardier,
and severe frost does them little injury ; but sometimes after much hard
weather they are not easily got at, and it is generally most convenient
to dig up and store away part of them also. The place where all roots
are stored should be cool and dry, but not too dry, or many of the roots
may shrivel. If covered over with sand, ashes, leaf-soil, or old mushroom-
bed dung, they will retain their qualities for many months. But, im-
portant as good root crops are, green vegetables are equally or more so

394 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

with many, but they are not so easily kept, especially during a winter
like last. Forcing gives a supply in some places, but not in the great
majority, and it is those we have in mind just now. With them the
chief thing to do is to select as hardy kinds as possible to grow from
the first, and then to keep them as well as they can.

Brussels Sprouts are among the hardiest of our winter greens ;
then come Savoys, Curly Greens or Scotch Kale, and Broccoli. And
there is yet another I wish to name, and that is variegated Kale. In
many gardens last winter these were the hardiest of all greens, re-
maining fresh to the very end of the season, or until they ran to
flower; and when cooked they are as well-flavoured and tender as
any other green. In winter it is a great matter to keep all kinds
of greens free from dead and decaying leaves, as rot is one of the
chief things to be warded off. Many kinds of odds and ends of
protectors may be used to cover up the best of the heads at certain
times ; but protection should never be given unless when it is actually
wanted, and it should always be regulated by the weather. With a little
labour, good quantities can be stored away in sheds ; and when this is
done they should only be taken into such places on dry days, when
they are perfectly dry, and they ought to be turned occasionally, to
expose them to fresh air. Broccoli should always be covered up as
soon as they begin to form. Vegetable Marrows, although plenti-
ful now, are scarce enough in winter ; but they need not be so if they
are gathered now and kept in a dry place. They keep for months
hung up in a piece of net in a dry room, and when boiled they are
almost as good as when green. They should be cut before they are
too old. Leeks are another grand winter vegetable. Weather has no
effect on them ; but they should be pretty well grown before the end
of October, and the further they are earthed up the better. We have
some fine ones this season in a position we never saw them in before,
and they are doing well in it. Our Celery trenches are thrown out
about 1 foot deep, and when the Celery plants were put into them, a
Leek was dibbled in between the plants every yard or so. As they
do not make bushy top-growth, they injure nothing, and as they get
earthed up with the Celery they will have fine stems. We are much
pleased with the plan, and think others would like it if tried.

Parsley comes in amongst the vegetables, and a great thing it is
when it can be gathered 365 days together. Often it does well in
winter with the protection of a wall-bottom ; but besides this, two or
three frame fulls should be in reserve; and a number of pots and boxes
filled with it and placed in a glass house can always be depended
upon. J. MuiE.

Margam.

i88t.] decorative GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 395

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

THE APHLEXIS.

The Aphlexis may with truth be called one of " our neglected green-
house plants," and yet as an ornamental, and more especially as an
exhibition plant, it has few equals. The flowers are among what
are generally termed eveidasting, and are therefore the more valuable
seeing they are so persistent, and keep fresh-looking for such a long
time, whether on the plant or even after they are cut. The plants are
worthy of more extended and more general cultivation than usually
falls to their lot. They should be grown in pure peat, or at least the
greater proportion of the soil should consist of good fibry peat ; a little
turfy loam may be added, and a liberal allowance of sharp sand
mixed with it, to keep all open and porous ; a little crushed char-
coal may also be added with advantage, as it tends to prevent the
soil from becoming sour through repeated watering ; the treatment
given them should be something similar to what is generally given to
Heaths and Epacris, &c. The Aphlexis is increased by cuttings taken
off either in spring or early summer, the small half- ripened side
shoots being best. These should be put in a properly prepared pot or
pan, the cuttings inserted in silver sand and covered with a bell-
glass, and treated in the way which has been repeatedly described for
similar kinds of plants. When they are fairly rooted they should be
carefully potted off singly in small pots, and set for a time in a close pit,
until they make fresh roots, when air should be given them, in moderate
quantities at first, afterwards increasing the quantity. They should
be frequently pinched when small plants, so as to secure plenty of
breaks, otherwise they have a tendency to grow straggly. The after-
treatment will consist in shifting them into larger pots when they
require it, keeping them carefully attended to in the way of water, and
giving them what training they may require.

PHCENOCOMA PROLIFERA.

The above plant is closely allied to the Aphlexis, and in many re-
spects requires the same kind of treatment ; it also bears everlasting
flowers, which last a long time in perfection. It makes a very hand-
some and attractive plant whether in or out of flower, and is also one of
the very best of exhibition plants. Young plants when of the proper
size are capital for table work and for house decoration. It is astonish-
ing how seldom one meets with a specimen of this plant, and yet it
is one which is worthy of a place in the most select collection of
greenhouse plants. It is a native of the Cape of Good Hope ; the soil
best suited to its needs is sandy peat, with a little leaf-mould added
to it. It is increased by cuttings, taken from among the side shoots
just as they are getting firm at the base. These should be put in in
the usual way under a bell-glass, in a pot or pan prepared as for cuttings

396 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

of Heatlis or suchlike. The pot should be set in a cool house or pit,
near the glass, and indeed in all stages of their growth they should be
kept as near the glass as may be convenient. When the cuttings have
made roots, pot them off singly and set them in a cool pit, where they
can be kept moderately close for a time, until they make fresh roots,
when they should be allowed a moderate quantity of air. If kept too
close for a lengthened period, they are liable to damp off, or to be at-
tacked by mildew, which destroys the small foliage and mars the beauty
of the plant.

In repotting they should not get too big shifts, and the soil should
be rammed hard about them. The roots are very small and threadlike,
so it is best to give small shifts and often, thus getting the whole
ball permeated with roots. If large shifts are given the roots find
their way to the sides of the pot, and run about it, leaving the centre
of the ball almost destitute of roots, and then with repeated waterings
the plant is liable to get soured, and suffers in consequence. The
plants should be often pinched when young, thus inducing a bushy
habit, and they will require fewer stakes to keep them in shape.
With proper management they should almost do without stakes
altogether, which are always less or more objectionable, and should
be used as sparingly as may be. Their time of flowering is the end of
summer and autumn, and the ordinary winter treatment should be
such as is usually given to Heaths and suchlike plants.

GENETYLLIS TULIPIFERA.

This plant is not nearly so much grown, or even so well known, as
it deserves to be. As an exhibition plant, when well grown and
flowered, it has few equals. Though the individual flowers are not
very showy, yet when closely examined they are very beautiful, and
as they are borne in the greatest profusion, a well - flow^ered speci-
men is a grand object ; the flowers are also very persistent, lasting in
good condition for months. It will thus be seen that this plant deserves
a place in the smallest collection of greenhouse plants. It is also very
useful for house-work when of moderate size, but is not suitable for
cutting from, the flowers being too stiff for this purpose.

They are generally considered somewhat difficult plants to manage,
and no doubt they require a good deal of care, else large portions of
them will die off in the most unaccountable manner, and this
more particularly should anything go wrong with the drainage. In
potting, therefore, this should receive particular attention. Good
drainage does not so much consist in the quantity of crocks as in the
manner they are put in : they should be put in carefully, and not
merely thrown in any way, under the idea that if plenty are put in
the drainage must be all right. Further, the crocks should be washed
clean before using, and then what particles of soil may be washed
down during the process of watering will be less likely to find a lodg-

i88i.] FRUIT- CULTURE. 397

ment among them. Great care should also be taken to prevent worms
from finding their way into the pots, as these soon choke up the drain-
age. Should any find their way in, however, the best way to get rid
of them will be to fill up the hole in the bottom with clay, and then
fill the pot up with clear lime-water. This can be easily made by
putting a few hot shells in a tub of water, and letting it stand for
twenty-four hours or so before using. The clear water only should be
used, and this will soon cause the worms to come to the surface, when
they can be picked off. The pot may be allowed to stand for a
few hours, when the clay should be removed and the water allowed
to drain off. It will not harm the plant, but is certain death to the
worms. The Genetyllis is a native of the Swan River. The soil best
suited to its requirements consists of good peat and turfy loam, two-
thirds of the former to one-third of the latter, and sufficient sand to
keep all open. They are increased by cuttings of the half-ripened
shoots, put in silver sand in the ordinary way under a bell-glass. Pot
them off singly when rooted; pinch them when young to get them into
shape, and the after-treatment will consist of shifting them when they
require it, training them into the shape desired, and general w^atch-
fulness that they do not suffer for want of water, nor be afilicted by
getting too much of it. J. G., W.

PRUIT-CULTUKE.

THE APPLE.

Medium Trees on Medium Walls. — For walls which are only 8 or 10
feet high, we think what we have already called medium trees are
most suitable. Trees on free stocks, especially where the soil is good
and deep, are apt to produce too much wood to be fruitful when
unduly restricted in growth, unless this restriction is caused by sys-
tematic root -pruning and root -lifting. It is better to attain the
desired conditions of restricted growth by having the trees on Para-
dise stocks. The Paradise requires much less root-pruning to induce
the roots to become fibry and keep near the surface than the seedling
Apple or even the Crab, and hence its desirability for medium-sized
trees.

Either fan or horizontal training may be followed, as in the case of
large trees — but we certainly prefer fan-training. In either case the
treatment required is just the same as with large trees. Pinching,
pruning, and root-pruning should also be done on the very same j^rin-
ciple and in the same way as we advised for trees in the open. If the
directions given for medium trees in the open quarters are studied,
along with the directions for training and otherwise treating large
trees on walls, no need will be required to particularise the details of
cultivating these smaller trees on walls.

398 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

Dwarf Trees on Low Walls. — As we have before said, we do not
recommend pigmy trees, except for covering low walls, which might
otherwise not be utilised at all. We have often seen long walls round
spade-cultivated land which were quite bare. When the walls are low
and limited in extent, we certainly advise cottagers and villa owners
or occupiers to plant the necessary quantity of Red and Black Currants
and Gooseberry-bushes against them ; but where there is a greater
extent of low wall than is required for these fruits, we would not hesi-
tate a moment to advise the planting of them with dwarf Apple-trees.
If good bearing kinds are planted, abundant crops may be expected
from what would otherwise be wasted space.

Such trees should be planted 4, 5, or 6 feet apart, on walls from
5 to 7 feet high, and they are, we think, best trained perpendicu-
larly. In forming them, the centre shoot of a maiden tree should
be cut quite close down, and two shoots allowed to spring. These are
to be laid in horizontally, and cut back so as to make them push shoots,
which are to be trained perpendicularly, at about 9 to 12 inches apart.
Cutting back at the winter pruning, and pinching in summer, must be
practised in the same way and for the same reason as dwarfs in the
open border are so treated. Root-pruning and root-feeding must also
be attended to in the same way.

Five or six branches should be led up from trees on walls 4 feet high
and under, but four branches will be sufficient for trees on walls 7 feet
high. In both cases the number of square feet allowed to each will
be almost the same, although the trees will require to be closer together
on the higher walls.

Cordon Trees. — Of late years cordon trees have become fashionable,
and by their use a wall may be rapidly clothed with bearing wood.
They may either be single or double, or indeed triple or quadruple for
that part of it ; but they are more commonly single or double. On high
walls they are generally trained straight up ; on low walls, they are
generally trained obliquely. A low wall may thus be made as suitable
for a cordon tree as a high one. We need not give special directions for
their cultivation ; the j^rincij^les laid down before apply here, and only
require some modification.

Esijalier Trees are trained and treated in exactly the same way as
wall-trees, and are fastened to wire or wood espaliers instead of walls.
We may add that common wire painted is considered better than
galvanised wire — many cultivators alleging that electricity plays on
the galvanised wire, and destroys the shoots which are tied to it.

Replacing had Kinds. — It too often happens that when trees begin
to bear they are found to be untrue to name, and it is seldom that the
misnamed kind is a better one than what was ordered. Sometimes,
often indeed, utterly worthless kinds are sent instead. Sometimes
kinds which either won't bear at all, or bear fruit that does not ripen,
are sent. This causes much disappointment, and often such trees are

i88i.] FRUIT- CULTURE. 399

regretfully dug out and replaced with young ones. A better plan, if
the trees are healthy, is to graft them with suitable kinds. Not only
is the risk of again planting misnamed sorts avoided, but especially,
in the case of wall-trees, the space will be much sooner filled up.

The operation is in itself simple. In order to insure success, the
necessary shoots which are to be engrafted on to the tree — young ones
— should be removed from the trees while they are still dormant, and
put into the soil like cuttings, in a shady place, and there left till
needed. The trees to be grafted should be allowed to swell their buds
before being operated upon. In the case of wall-trees, each branch
should be cut back to within 4 inches from where it starts, and there
grafted. Branches not thicker than one's finger should be whip-
grafted, but if much thicker, crown - grafting is more suitable. In
putting on whip-grafts, the inside bark of the stock and scion should
correspond along one side, and at the end at least, for there the junc-
tion takes place. When the operation is complete, the scion should
be carefully bound in its place with soft matting, and then covered over
with half an inch of good clay (well worked and mixed with one-third
of horse-droppings or chopped hay to make it hold on, as plaster does
when mixed with hair). To insure its sticking, rub a quarter of an
inch over the matting, and when that adheres, put on another quarter,
and finish the whole with hands dipped in water, which will enable
the operator to put on a smooth surface. When carefully done, the
clay very seldom falls off. Grafting mixtures, to be used instead of
clay, are sold, and these have the advantage of being cleaner. Direc-
tions for use accompany each box.

Those who wish may raise their own trees. The simplest way of
doing this is to sow the seeds of hardy kinds early in spring, and to
nurse the trees until they are the thickness of one's fore-finger, when
they may be grafted by whip-grafting. The seeds from fine kinds are
not so good for stocks as the hardy kinds, and seeds from American
Apples are of no use at all, for nine out of every ten will prove too
tender. If Crab seeds are to be had, they should be treated similarly.
When the seedlings are one year old, they require planting into nursery-
beds 6 inches apart in the row, and 2 feet between the rows. In trans-
planting, always cut off the point of the tap-root, to induce the forma-
tion of fibry roots. Paradise and Doucin stocks are propagated by
cuttings of the ripe wood, put in on a shady border in sandy soil any
time during winter. These stocks may be had, from those nurserymen
who deal in them, very cheaply by the 100 or 1000. Bits of roots from
established trees maybe used on an emergency, when no other stocks are
at hand, and valuable grafts in the possession of the grower. The more
fibres there are on the roots, the better will be the chance of success.
Care should be taken not to allow the roots to get dry while they are
out of the ground.
Moss and Licliem on A2yple-tre€s. — Old trees often get covered over

400 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

with lichens and moss, which exert an evil influence on the trees'
health. They should be cleaned from these, by scraping them with
some blunt iron' instrument, and then dusting the branches over,
while they are damp, with newly-slaked lime. Lime, when applied
hot, is death to lichens and mosses'; but, when trees are badly affected,
it is quite necessary to scrape them before applying the lime — other-
wise it will have no chance of properly doing its work.

American Blight. — Sometimes this pest attacks Apple-trees in this
country. If left to itself it does a deal of mischief. When it makes
its appearance the most economical plan is to attack it at once, for if it
is allowed to spread, its destruction will prove a serious matter. It is
easiest got at in winter, and just damping the places where it lodges on
the branches with paraffin-oil is the most effectual way of destroying
it. This means a great deal of careful anointing in the case of old,
badly infested trees, but it is easily got rid of in the case of young
ones.

Canlcer. — Some varieties of trees are much more liable to this disease
than others. Indeed some sorts are never attacked, even on unfavour-
able soils; while in the best of soils, and under the very best system of
cultivation, others cannot be kept free of it. For instance. Hawthorn-
den (which, if it could be kept free of canker, would be the best Apple
in cultivation for the million) generally dies outright when the tree gets
to be over a score of years old, especially when its roots are allowed to
penetrate into a cold or otherwise unfavourable subsoil. The only pre-
vention, and that but a partial one, comparatively speaking, is to keep
the roots well in hand near the surface, and in healthy well-drained soil.
When it is determined to grow some favourite sort, which is yet liable
to canker, it is well to have young trees nursing on somewhere, to take
the place of those which may die or become unsightly from canker.
In our selection of varieties we have named only those which we have
found to grow healthily on a variety of soils. We make an exception
in the case of Hawthornden. The fact is, it is a favourite of ours. It
never, in ordinary circumstances, makes a full-grown orchard tree, and
for medium trees it should be grafted on a free stock, for it bears so
freely from the very first, that there is no difficulty in keeping it dwarf
— the difficulty lies the other way. We once saw half-a-dozen of this
kind on the Doucin, and they could not be got to grow at all ; so
even for the dwarfest trees nothing more dwarfing than the Paradise
(English) should be used for this variety.

Gathering and storing the Fruit. — Little requires to be said under
this head. Each kind should be gathered as it becomes ripe, and in
gathering care should be taken not to bruise the fruit. In storing it,
it should be spread carefully and thinly in a dry airy room, and care
should be taken to keep frost away.

List of Varieties suitable for a Small Garden : Kitchen Apples. — We
have placed these first because, as before stated, the home-growers can

i88i.] CHRYSANTHEMUM INDICUM PRECOCITE. 401

never compete with the Americans with dessert varieties. Moreover our
surest croppers are mostly Kitchen Apples, and if Apple-growing is to
pay, large crops must be uniformly produced, and not at intervals of years
only. * Lord Suffield. — This is a very large^andsomely-shaped codlin ;
a free bearer, good grower, and at home anywhere in Great Britain or
Ireland (October to November). Keswick Codlin. — Although not so
handsome as the last, it is a sure cropper and a good Kitchen Apple.
Stirling Castle. — A very free-bearing, handsome Apple ; the growth is
healthy, but it is apt to bear too freely, and so fail to grow. Nourish-
ment, and the removal of terminal flower-buds from the young shoots,
coupled with the judicious thinning of the fruit, will correct this tend-
ency (October). ^ Cellini. — One of the very best in every respect, and
is also a handsome Apple (November to December). Ecklinville Seed-
ling.—Another of the very best. Grows to a large size, and is an im-
mense bearer. * Tower of Glamis. — Another Apple worth cultivating
in the smallest garden. It is a first-rate keeper.

Dessert Aj^j^les. — Early Margaret. — A very free-bearing early variety
(August to September). "^ Irish Peach (wall). — Another first-rate
early kind. Emperor Alexander. — A very beautiful fruit (wall, Octo-
ber). * Cox's Orange Pippin. — This, on a wall, is a very valuable
Apple for winter use. Ribston Pippin. — This cankers, but is a uni-
versal favourite; it keeps well, bears well, and is by no means particular
to climate. We are sorely tempted to add to this list, but we really
think it is too long for the class for which this is written. The very
best kinds, from an economical point of view, are marked with an as-
terisk. This constitutes a second selection.

We can scarcely hope that our selection will prove universally ac-
ceptable within these Islands ; but those who garden in lake districts,
especially if the principles of cultivation which we have endeavoured
to explain are carried out, may rest assured that the selection made is
suitable, for every one of them grows and thrives well north of the
Forth. Most of our notes indeed, from which we make the selection, are
the results obtained in a Fifeshire garden. Those who are favoured with
very favourable climate and soil may advantageously add to our selec-
tion; but our advice, in closing, is — make your selection from gardens
or orchards in your own locality, for very great mistakes have occurred
by planting trees, suitable enough in one locality perhaps, but totally
unsuited to the circumstances under which they were placed in another.

A. H. H.

CHRYSANTHEMUM INDICUM PRECOCITE, &c.

This is a dwarf-growing, early-flowering variety of the common winter-
flowering Chrysanthemum, with very double, medium - sized, neatly
formed flowers, which are borne in great profusion from July till

402 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

destroyed by frost. As a pot-plant it is a very effective and desir-
able subject; but is most useful and effective as a mixed border-
plant, and for large beds. It grows about 18 inches in height,
branches freely, and is as rigid in habit almost as a young thorn-tree.
It stands ordinary winters in the open borders, and during the most
severe weather will live with very slight protection. For mixing into
borders of hardy plants it has no equal as a bright yellow flower ;
while for lines and large beds it is splendid, and the wonder is that
it is not more extensively used as a decorative border-plant. There
are several other varieties that bloom at the same early date, but
precocite is the most effective and useful. Still the others, being of
various colours, are also desirable.

C. delphine caboche, a purplish-rose variety, is a little taller than
precocite. C. illustratim is about 18 inches high, having pink
flowers with orange centre ; this is a very effective variety. C.
indicum nanum has immense and very double white flowers, and
is of neat compact growth. C. Scarlet Gem has rather dull crimson
flowers, and is dwarf and stiff in habit. These varieties of Chrysanthe-
mums should be grown by all lovers of mixed borders. Precocite
and indicum nanum are the best ; but all are worth a place, and can
be grown with very little trouble. Of course, to enable them to keep
on blooming for months, they require generous treatment, and water-
ing in hot dry weather ; but this applies to most border-plants.

A. P.

HINTS FOR AMATEURS.

FLOWER-GAEDEN.

Valuable kinds of plants in open ground are not safe from frost at
this season, and should be lifted and potted, or protected at night.
Propagating should be brought to a close as early as circumstances
will allow, except in the case of Calceolarias and Pansies, which may
be left till next month. Pits on which glass-lights can be placed suit
well for Calceolarias. Pansies, after they are rooted, will stand almost
any weather ; but to have nice fresh plants to turn out in spring, a
few glass-lights will do much towards that end. Take note of the
rooted stock of cuttings and others on the way, and see that they are
sufficient for the demand. Look well to the staking of Dahlias,
Hollyhocks, and other tall-growing plants ; as, if frost keeps off, they
may be found useful for months to come. Many herbaceous plants
can now be replanted with good soil with best results ; but when
such work is done, it is better to regulate and renew the whole border
— fresh soil and manure may be wanted. They should be kept thin,
and regulated according to height. There is plenty of time to think of
this when flowering is quite over for the season ; but now is the time
to note heights, &c., before the tops die down. Hedge-clipping and

i88tJ hints for AMATEURS. 403

box-trimming may have attention now : repairing lawns by turf, and
sowing of grass, may be done when weather is moist. Walk-turning,
to destroy moss, and gravelling, may be done now, but better later.
Every portion of the ground should show taste and high keeping. As
leaves will now begin to drop, especially Limes, much labour must be
expended to keep all parts in good order. Pinks and Carnations
rooted may now be planted. We often have found these do best of
all by allowing them to remain to the old plants all the winter, and
during April lift them and plant carefully, with all roots entire. Sow
annuals now of choice kinds, to stand the winter and flower in spring.
They may be sown in boxes or on a border, to be transplanted when
the other bedders are done with. Roses should have all dead bloom
cut off as they appear. To keep mildew in check, a syringing of soapy
water, in which a quantity of sulphur is mixed, will be of much ser-
vice : so will Gishurst's Compound. Strong rambling shoots cut back
will throw out later a number of useful blooms. Climbers should be
regulated by thinning their growths.

PLANT-STRUCTURES.

The work in this department is much as was recommended for last
month. A general preparation for harvesting the stock through the
winter should now have attention. The washing of all glass houses,
lights of pits, frames, &c., may with every advantage be done now,
heating apparatus examined, painting, done, or any other work which
will aid the keeping of the plants in good condition during the winter
season. All hard-wood plants should be overhauled : surfaced if
wanted, drainage put right, pots washed, worms eradicated, staked
where wanted (much of this is ruinous to the appearance of the plants),
and any trimming required (for appearance' sake, which will not injure
the plants) should have attention at " housing time." All soft wooded
plants, such as Pelargoniums, Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Kalosanthes,
^0., requiring more pot-room, should get it before growth becomes
sluggish, and while there are sun and air to help them on. Cut
down stage Pelargoniums which are for late work. Those which are
well broken into fresh growth should be shaken out and re-potted into
smaller sizes, using rather sandy soil for this work, which gives plenty
of fibre for next shift, when the soil is richer and the shifts of some size.
Fumigate with tobacco three times a week, to keep aphis in check.
Plants not required for the conservatory for some time should be ar-
ranged in classes — as examples, Azaleas by themselves ; also Heaths and
Epacris; and so on, according to time of flowering or taking to forcing-
house. They should be in lots ready to be removed as required, with-
out disarranging the whole stock. Roses of the Tea class, and Chinas,
should be put right at roots by sound drainage, surfacing, or potting,
if they require it. All inert soil should be taken away, as far as it
can be spared, and replaced with good wholesome loam and very rotten

2 D

404 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

manure ; but nothing should be given to sour the soil : much manure
in pot-soil always does mischief. Plants done flowering, and to be
used next year, should not be treated carelessly, as sometimes is the
case when good servants have finished their work for the season ; but
they should be placed in pits or other structures, and the necessary re-
quirements allowed them. This applies to Veronicas of sorts, Kalosan-
thes, Hydrangeas, Fuchsias, Statices, and suchlike : a little trimming of
huge growths may be necessary. All potting should be done early
enough, so that the roots may be established in the fresh soil before
•winter sets in. The whole stock of forcing-plants should now have
their flower - buds well ripened, and be ready, after a fair season
of rest, to start gently into flower at the proper time. Early pre-
pared Camellias will now be well forward, and some showing their
colours : water them and all such with much care. When drain-
age is good, they should have good soakings when they need it.
It may now be better to water all plants in the mornings, so that
they and the structures in which they are placed may be dry and
clean at night. The airing of cool houses must now be done judi-
ciously, and if a damp time should set in, gentle fires may be re-
quired. Potting of bulbs will now have attention : good turfy loam,
with a little well-rotted manure and sand mixed, suits most kinds.
Hyacinths may be potted, one to three in each pot ; each potful should
be one kind. The same applies to Talips, Narcissus, and Jonquils —
using pots suitable for the positions in which they are to be placed.
Tulips may be well covered with the soil ; Hyacinths and Narcissus,
only a third of them should be under the soil. All, when potted, may
be placed under 3 or 4 inches of old tan or leaf-mould, till their pots
are full of roots and they have begun to grow ; then they may be brought
forward in greenhouse temperature slowly, forcing a few as they are
required. Potting may be done from September to the middle of Octo-
ber or later, putting in a proportionate quantity of bulbs each time :
successions will come into, use accordingly. In the show-house, such
piants as were referred to last month will still be in good bloom. Less
shading will be needed as the season advances. Plants introduced now
should be of neat and distinct habit. Creepers — such as Plumbago
capensis, Habrothamnus, Lapagerias, Kennedyias, &c. — may require
cutting-in a little to prevent matting ; but wholesale clearing is dam-
aging for next year's supply of flowers. Chrysanthemums, Salvias,
Eupatoriums, &c., should now be well forward and ready to do their
part. The two first may be aided with clear manure-water as soon as
their buds are set ; a good rich surfacing will do much to keep them
in vigour. In the stove, a bed of tan with warmth to start Gardenias,
Ixorias, Jasmine sambac, Eucharis, and other flowers for early winter,
may be of great service ; but if the plants are to be taken to cooler
structures or rooms, they must be removed gradually from bottom-heat
as the buds begin to open, otherwise dropping of blooms would take

i88i.] GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 405

place. All the Stocks should be examined and put right at the roots
for winter. Sponging and cleaning should be done thoroughly. Pot-
bound plants would suffer during the winter — better risk a shift than
allow them to be injured by starvation : extra drainage should be
allowed when potting is done late. Creepers should be cut in, to
allow light to the whole house. Air as freely as circumstances will
allow : let syringing decrease gradually. When fire is used, it should
as yet be moderately; but the weather is the best guide to this. Heat
may range about 65° at night, rising 10° with sun-heat. Gross spongy
growth is very objectionable at this season of year. Look to all winter-
flowering plants in pits and frames : they must not be starved by cold
and damp. See that they are not rooting through their pots, and have
root-room. In stoves such plants are now more manageable. Plenty
of Gesnerias, Libonias, Euphorbias, Epiphyllums, Poinsettias, Thyrsa-
canthus, Scutellarias, and suchlike, are of immense value where flowers
are wanted during winter. Calanthes should be well forward for early
flowers : the soil about their roots should not be allowed to become
sour or sodden.

HARDY FRUITS.

In this department attention to netting of fruits from birds and pro-
tecting from wasps will be an everyday consideration. Gather all stone-
fruits before they are ready to drop. The trimming of dwarf trees, to
let in sun and air to the fruit, should be completed. If any root-prun-
ing is to be done, now is a good time to do it ; but the idea that trees
require this annually is simply absurd — indeed such a practice is posi-
tively injurious. Roots going away into bad soil from sun and air
should be cut off; but the destruction of fibres is barbarous in the
extreme. Careful lifting is better, and good mulching draws the roots
upwards, and improves the fruit immensely. Allow sun and air to
have full power on wall-trees. M. T.

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

NO. Vn. — KALOSANTHES COCCINEA.

MoEE than 150 years have passed away since this grand flowering-
plant made its appearance in the greenhouses of Great Britain ; and
notwithstanding the large number of other kinds of beautiful flower-
ing-plants that have been introduced during the intervening years
between then and now, it is still deserving of a prominent place
amongst the later arrivals.

Of late years a few varieties of this plant, differing somewhat from
the original type in the colour of their flowers, have been brought
under the notice of the gardening public ; but in the writer's opinion
none of them have flowers of a superior colour to those produced by
the old plant. For the decoration of the greenhouse or conservatory

406 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

during the months of June, July, and August, it has few equals ;
and during the same time it is one of the most " telling " flowering-
plants that can be introduced into floral decorations in rooms of the
dwelling-house. For the latter purpose, during the months mentioned,
it is indeed invaluable, as it can be flowered successfully in pots of
all sizes, from 5 to 20 inches in diameter.

When used for the purpose here referred to, and surrounded with a
fringe of Maiden-hair Ferns, or other plants with graceful foliage, the
efi'sct is highly pleasing, and seldom fails to attract the notice and call
forth the praise of all who see the arrangement. The merits of the
Kalosanthes, however, are not confined to the pleasing effect produced
by its flowers on the ocular nerves of the beholder ; as, in addition to
their bright colour, the flowers have the property of exhaling a delicate
jDcrfume, and this quality enhances the value of any plant when em-
ployed as an ornament in the dwelling-house. Then, when in good
health, it makes one of the grandest exhibition plants that can be taken
out to a flower-show. A healthy well-bloomed plant of Kalosanthes
coccinea will produce as striking an effect on the exhibition-table, and
rank almost as high in the eye of a good plant judge, as an Ixora of
equal dimensions, and having the same number of flowers thereon.

Well, now, notwithstanding that the plant is possessed of all these
good qualities, we have to admit that it is seldom seen in private
places in a condition creditable to the cultivator. Why it is that so
useful and beautiful a plant is not better cared for by private gardeners
is not easily understood. The reason for the neglect of this plant
cannot arise from any difficulty experienced in its culture, as it is as
easily managed in all stages of its growth as a Scarlet Geranium or
Cineraria.

For the benefit of any reader who may not have had any experience
in the culture of Kalosanthes coccinea, and who may wish to grow it
successfully, I will now give a few directions that may be of use to him.

Propagation. — This is effected by cuttings. And although cuttings
will emit roots at any time of the year, the months of August and
September are the best time to insert them. Let the cuttings be from
3 to 4 inches long, taken from the tops of shoots that have not pro-
duced flowers. Insert three cuttings in a 3-inch pot that has pre-
viously been properly drained, and filled with a compost of leaf-mould
and coarse sand in equal parts. When the desired number are put in,
give them a good watering by means of a fine-rosed watering-pot, and
place the pots containing them in a close frame or in the propagating-
pit. While the rooting process is going on, they will require very
little water, and they should not have any shading except in the case
of very bright sunshine.

As soon as the rooting process is complete, the cultivator must
decide the particular purpose that he intends the plants for. Those
of them wanted for general decorative purposes should be transferred

i88i.] THE LARGE VINE AT SPEDDOCK. 407

from the cutting pots into pots of larger size, without breaking the
balls of soil about the roots of the young plants — thus there will be
three plants in each pot ; and if duly attended to, and not interfered
with in the way of nipping or cutting out their points, they will keep
on growing all through the winter, and each, as a rule, will produce a
head of flowers the following July or August.

If the cultivator is desirous of producing specimens, he must repot
the plants as often as the pots become filled with their roots, remem-
bering not to give large shifts at any time. It is also necessary, when
large plants are the object, to stop or nip out the points of the shoots as
often as the latter have made 3 or 4 inches of growth. This stopping
of the shoots must be continued up to the middle of August of the
year previous to that in which the plants are wanted to flower. Good
fibry loam, to which has been added some coarse river-sand and a little
pounded charcoal, will be found a good compost for the roots. In
all stages of growth this plant should be kept as near to the glass as
possible, and at no season should a superabundance of water be applied
to it^ roots. Perfect drainage at the roots, and a judicious applica-
tion of water thereto, are the principal points to be attended to in the
culture of Kalosanthes coccinea. J. Hammond.

THE LARGE VIN'E AT SPEDDOCK, DUMFRIESSHIRE.

At Speddock, near Dumfries, there is a very remarkable specimen
of the Black Hamburg Vine. It is distinguished for its size, but
not more so than for the splendid Grapes it bears annually. As
far as we are aware, it has no equal in this country, if its size and
the quality of its produce are considered. The Vine at Hampton
Court, as well as those at Cumberland Lodge and Finchley, are all
larger ; but the produce of these is not so fine as the Speddock Vine.
This Vine is about eighty years old, and until a few years ago it
occupied a much smaller vinery than the one it has now nearly filled,
and which is something over 60 feet long and 20 feet wide, with
a lofty back wall, and consequently a long rafter. The Vine is
planted at the extreme east end of the house, so that its growth is
entirely to the west. Last year it bore 600 lb. of Grapes of superb
quality both as to size and finish. This year it has fully 700 lb.,
every bunch from end to end and top to bottom being a model one ;
and while some are quite 3 lb. weight, they will average at least
2 lb. each. They are large in berry, conical in shape, and jet black.
Mr Smith, who manages all his Vines in four vineries with great care
and skill, wings all the bunches, so that they are all remarkably
uniform in shape. This grand Vine is in a most vigorous condition,
and if the vinery were added to 60 feet to the east, it would soon
fill it all ; but the nature of the ground prevents extension in that

408 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

direction. The border is liberally manured annually, very much in
the manner referred to in our last issue. In another adjoining house
there is a very superb crop of Gros Colmar on Vines, planted some
four years since, and that are now in full bearing. In the other
houses there are some remarkably vigorous and fruitful younger
Vines, of such varieties as Alicante, Black Hamburg, and Muscats.
The Vines are allowed plenty of room, and carry a good spread of
foliage, and amply justify the practice of giving individual rods
plenty of room, instead of crowding them together at the rate of
2 and 2^ feet. To do such Grapes as Muscats of Alexandria and
Gros Colmar justice, they should never be closer than 4 or 4^ feet.
They will carry as many Grapes as when planted more closely, and
they have many conditions in favour of properly ripening the crop
and wood, which do not exist in the crowding system.

MAJSrURING AND DIGGING AMONG ROSES.

Hybeid Perpetual Roses are cultivated in every garden in these
Islands, but in too many cases with but indifferent success. Being
universal favourites, and having a very large number of admirers,
it is no wonder that all owners of gardens should endeavour to pro-
duce as many Roses as possible, even though circumstances may
be unfavourable to even fair success. One reason of many failures,
especially in cold, late, or northern districts, is the extremely severe
weather experienced in winter ; and in not a few cases the low tem-
perature of summer, from which we have suffered much in late years,
has largely contributed to the dying out of the plants, because of the
immature condition of the shoots consequent on the want of a tempera-
ture high enough to properly ripen them. These evils have been, we
believe, in a large percentage of cases, aggravated by heavy mulchings
of manure in winter, the digging of this manure into the ground in
spring, and the liberal application of manure-water in summer.

The application of manure does not get the attention which the
subject demands. Writers on gardening subjects, practising perhaps
where there is a moderate rainfall, and where the days of sunshine and
dry warm winds prevail, often give advice which is thoroughly good
for those who garden under like conditions, but which proves disas-
trous when followed to the letter in other districts where the rainfall
is great, the temperature low, and the climate damp. This is especially
so in the case of the Rose. Most of our best and most extensive Rose-
growers, and almost all of those who have produced books on the
subject, reside south, some of them far south, of the Tweed, and
even the Humber. Nevertheless the teachings of men in the sunny
south are followed on " the bleak Northumbrian coast " and far north
in Scotland with evil results.

i88i.] MANURING AND DIGGING AMONG ROSES. 409

This is not only the case with Roses, but with almost everything
else. From Apple and Pear trees down to Strawberries and Onions,
manure is applied in quantities which cause growths which ripen
badly, and are unfruitful in proportion to the over manuring.

Almost all writers advise the liberal use of manure, and a good
depth of soil of as good a description as possible, in the preparing of
beds for Roses. We need hardly say anything here about this, as we
thoroughly agree with those who advocate the proper preparation of
the soil intended for Roses. To plant Roses on poor, thin, gravelly,
unenriched soil is, not to court, but to insure failure. If H.P. Roses
cannot stand on well-prepared soil, better plant the commonest, hardi-
est kinds, for no satisfaction will be derived from them otherwise.
But while going thus far, we are certain that heavy mulchings in
winter, when dug in in spring, and after-applications of manure-water-
ings, are disastrous evils in late, cold districts, and are some-
times not altogether an unmixed good even in what are considered
fairly good climates. It may be, indeed it is, quite different in
favoured localities ; but we live in a very cold, late one, and we wish
to give our experiences in this matter, for we know that there are many
similarly situated to ourselves whose Roses suffer from mistaken
kindness.

Wishing to excel in the cultivation of Roses, we, on the formation of
what may be called our Rose-garden here, procured and studied the
works of the authorities on Rose-growing. We prepared our soil by
trenching and liberal manuring, and after the Roses were planted,
mulched them heavily. This course secured splendid growth, fine
Roses, and much satisfaction. For a year or two this went on, — winter
mulchings dug in in spring, and heavy manure -waterings, securing
ever-increasing strength and luxuriance. But a day of reckoning soon
came. We had walked in the light of orthodox Rose-growing, instead
of adapting our practice to our climate, and we suffered to the extent
to which we erred. Dull, cold summers came, followed by arctic winters,
and death thinned our Rose-beds fearfully. Even those which were
spared grew wofully weak, and gradually became "beautifully less.'^
This happened in our regular Rose-beds. In a mixed border the Rose-
trees bade defiance to the elements, and waxed stronger and produced
finer flowers than did those of robust growth. This set us thinking,
and the consequence was that we resolved that henceforth no manure,
either liquid or solid, would be applied ; and to give the system a fair
trial, we lifted the whole — they were sadly needing rearrangement —
trenched the ground, and replanted the Roses very deeply, in order to
make sure of their not being killed even if they were frozen down to
the ground-line. The following winter, ^78-^79, proved exceptionally
severe, so that our " new departure '^ was put to a severe test — indeed
every plant was frozen to the ground-line. We would not have been
surprised at the usual number of deaths, considering the circumstances,

410 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

but as a matter of fact we lost not one. Instead of digging in manure
in spring, as usual, we trod the ground firmly — it is rather light —
and merely cut off the dead wood, and hoed and raked the ground.
Although the summer and the autumn were the coldest and wettest
on record, the plants made and ripened a fair growth. The following
winter again cut them down ; but as before, they came up — this time
strongly. Again the ground was merely firmed and dressed. The
summer and autumn ('80) were favourable, and we had a magnificent
growth, and the best display we ever had. Last winter also proved
killing, the thermometer being again and again below zero, and again
every bush was cut down to heloiv the ground-line. This year they
are again first-class and the growth magnificent — too much so, in fact,
for nearly every shoot needs staking to prevent its being broken by
the wind, to which we are much exposed. Near by these Roses are
similar beds not under our charge, treated in orthodox style, and any
one can see that the treatment is too good for the climate. Notwith-
standing heavy mulchings, many of these Roses are annually killed by
the severity of the winter. A number of the survivors are seriously crip-
pled by the "coddling" and the weather, so that their growth in spring
and summer is far from equal to ours. The heavy mulchings, which
are dug in in spring, and the manure-waterings, make the soil richer,
and the consequence is a strong growth at a season when growth
should not be making but maturing, and which is always killed
because it is always immature. The natural result is death and dis-
ablement. Any one looking on these beds in spring would fail to see
much difference ; 'both are generally cut down, the one to the manure,
the other to the ground-line. A month later the difference is obvious.
Ours are growing stoutly, the others are growing weakly on account
of the little vitality left in them — some indeed are past growing at all.
Why the difference 1 The reason why ours grow strongly is because
the growth is made early and matured early, and therefore the root-
stock is strong and mature, and able to again throw up sturdy growths
to bloom early and mature early. The others hang long and make
little growth; but the rich soil, aided by liquid manure, acts by-and-by,
and strong shoots at length appear, but appear too late, for the winter
finds them in midsummer condition — and the whole plant being in an
immature state, suffers accordingly. Were the season to last a month
or so longer, these might mature, and consequently stand the winter ;
as it is, they are the innocent victims of " orthodox" treatment. We
cannot make the climate fit us ; but we ought to make our practice fit
it. Without liberal supplies of manure, southern growers could not
produce the grand Roses they do. It does not follow that the same
treatment in cold or northern localities will produce equal results —
often the very reverse will follow. Many are delighted when they see
trees making great strong growths ; but the practical men among us
know that unless we get fine dry summer and autumn weather to

i88i.] THE ART OF COLOURING GRAPES. 411

mature that grand wood, evil results will follow instead of good, in
the case of fruiting and flowering trees. Better by far have only mod-
erate growth that the climate will perfect — we then may confidently
look for good results. The lesson is to adapt ourselves to our circum-
stances, and not mourn because they won't adapt themselves to us.
To give manure or to withhold it, to apply it sparingly or liberally,
depends not altogether on the state of the soil, nor yet on the crop to
be raised ; but if we are to reap the fullest good, we must regard the
climate also. It is the same in the matter of digging. A loose open
soil which will allow roots to run freely and retain moisture in as
great quantity as possible when aided by mulching, may be proper in
one case and disastrous in another. With a dull sky, a heavy rainfall,
a damp soil, and a low temperature, a firm soil which will retain a
minimum amount of water, and discourage strong, pumping roots,
tending to produce fibry ones which produce firmer growth — such is
the practice which should obtain. We have spoken generally. It is
impossible to do more, for no two localities, soils, or situations are the
same, consequently each one must cut a path for himself.

"Far North."

THE ART OF COLOURING GRAPES.

"It is pitiable to see Grapes which are fine in every other way —
large and regular in berry, beautiful in form, and large in size of
bunch — yet lacking that all-important point of excellence, good colour,
and consequent good flavour. It is possible to have good colour with-
out good flavour, inasmuch as colour under good cultivation will come
first ; but it is not possible to have good flavour without good colour.
I do not say that Grapes should be all either black or yellow ; there
are some of the best-flavoured varieties which will not, under any
system of cultivation, approach either of these colours, and are there-
fore not so much grown as their merits would warrant ; but when we
see, as all of us who attend exhibitions do see every year, red Grapes
conspicuously labelled Black Hamburg, and Muscat of Alexandria as
green as a Leek, we may be sure there is something wrong either in
the culture or nomenclature. At local shows especially, judges have
an unthankful oflice to perform when size is pitted against finish, and
of course everybody is on the side of the giants. At the larger shows,
in consequence of a greater number of persons attending who know
what a bunch of Grapes should be, and there being amongst the crowd
a certain amount of confidence in the great men who are supposed
to act as censors on such occasions, the task of judging is not so
thankless.

" In the case of Muscats at the early summer exhibitions we must,
I suppose, be content to see them green, for they have never, to my

412 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

knowledge, been shown otherwise, and I think it is a pity they should
be invited at all before the end of July. But Hamburgs are just as
easy to colour in April as in September. They are not, perhaps, so
easy for everybody to grow in the winter months as they are in the
summer, but any person having grown them at any time of the year,
and brought them in good condition through the stage of stoning, the
question of colouring is then merely a matter of air and light acting
on a good supply of healthy foliage ; and I should not be afraid to say,
that if a house of Hamburgs were given over to me at this stage in a
moderately healthy condition as to foliage, that I could insure the
colouring of all such berries as would not shank. The process would
be a very simple one. I should first take great care that the quantity
of fruit was not in excess of the capabilities of the foliage. There can
be no rule laid down for this, as one good substantial leaf in full sun-
light is worth more than a dozen flimsy ones which are partially
shaded. What would be a heavy crop for one Vine where the plants
are close together might be a light crop for another where more space
is allowed. Next I should see that the border was never dry ; and
lastly, that the house was never without ventilation, unless for an hour
or two when a cold spell of wintry w^eather came on suddenly.

" A minimum temperature of 65°, with a rise of 80" by sun-heat if
the fruit has to be hurried in ripening, and all the air continually that
these conditions will allow, without admitting a cold draught or neces-
sitating too much hard firing, is the treatment recommended. The
colouring cannot take place without a constant change of air. The
colder the outside temperature, the smaller of course must be the
aperture for ventilation, and in frosty or rough weather sufficient air
will often enter through the laps of the glass during nights and dull
days ; but this constant stream of fresh air, till we find some better
method at this particular stage, is an imperative necessity. When
Grapes of the Hamburg class are not forced, and there is no necessity
to hurry them, the simplest way to insure colouring is to leave them
open night and day. There is far too much opening and closing of
ventilators with most of us.

" The thick-skinned Grapes, such as Lady Downes and Alicante,
which are intended to be kept through the winter for use in February,
March, April, and !May, require a higher temperature at this stage than
is necessary for Hamburgs, and they will do with a less amount of
ventilation when once the stoning process is over. The colouring of
this class of Grapes should commence at the end of July or the first
week in August, and a minimum of not less than 65° should be kept
for two months afterwards. If a little ventilation can be allowed all
night so much the better, but it is an absolute necessity to have some
before the temperature rises in the morning.

"Muscats, to colour them well, require similar treatment to the
thick-skinned varieties; but there is this difference between them — all

i88i.] THE ART OF COLOURING GRAPES. 413

black Grapes will colour witliout direct sunlight on tlie fruit, but the
Muscat of Alexandria and its allies of the same colour will not ; they
must therefore be trained wider apart, and, if necessary, the leaves
where they shade the bunches must be tied back. I think, too, that
no class of Grapes better pays for an extension of growth beyond the
bunch than this ; 6 feet apart is near enough for the rods, and the
growths should be allowed to meet, but not to overlap or become
crowded." — Wm. Taylor in Journal of Horticulture.

[Mr Taylor's remarks are well worthy the careful consideration of all
who are interested in the colouring of Grapes, and are entirely in accord-
ance with our own experience and observation. " The good substan-
tial leafage in full sunlight" is nearly the whole secret of colouring
Grapes well. Of course it is indispensable to ventilate, ttc, on sound
principles ; but all other conditions that can be afforded will fail
if the foliage is not healthy (the Grapes in proportion to it, of course),
and well exposed to sunlight. A rather striking illustration of the
potent and indispensable necessity of sunlight on the foliage in laying
on good colour has come under our observation in a vinery where Black
Hamburgs are grown. The house is a three-quarter span, running east
and west, and the north is steeper than the south side, and consequently
has less chance of light. When the season happens to be bright and
sunny, the Grapes on the north side colour very much as those on the
south ; but in summers such as this and 1879, they are brown Ham-
burgs on the north and black ones on the south. There is no inequal-
ity of ventilation, for the top ventilation is all on the north side, and
there is bottom ventilation there also. There is one black Grape, viz.,
Gros Colmar, that we have always found to colour the quickest and most
perfect when the bunches are exposed to direct sunshine, the same
as is acknowledged to be best for Muscats. The crowding system
of Vine-growing cannot be too severely condemned. It produces a
less robust foliage, and prevents the free circulation of air about it.
Vines planted at 4 feet will, moreover, produce as great a w^eight
of fine Grapes ; for the amount of crop perfected as it ought to be,
depends on the amount of fine strong foliage more than on anything
else. Dryness of soil at the time of colouring is undoubtedly a great
evil, for it is just at this time that Grapes increase very much in size,
as well as put on their colour. There is, of course, a medium in the
matter of moisture; for we have seen Grapes fail to colour in exces-
sively wet seasons, when the border was constantly heavily rained
upon for a long time, and no other cause could be thought of than
over-much wet and absence of sun. During such seasons it would be
well, if practicable, to throw off the excess of moisture during the
colouring period. And perhaps this is the only time that a well-
drained border is much benefited by a waterproof covering.— Ed.]

414 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

THE FLOWER- GARDEN.

Last month the value of hardy Florist flowers in mixed borders was
brought before the readers of the * Gardener.' I have now to
ask that their usefulness for cultivation in formal beds should be
examined. We have all read what has been said about the ab-
surdity, the want of taste, the unnaturalness of planting out masses of
plants in beds and borders cut out of lawns, and have no doubt been
considerably affected by all such remarks. Yet, after all that has been
said, we have not had a method of growing plants placed before us
which can compete with the above system of garden decoration for the
summer and autumn months. Not as doing away with Geraniums
and other continuous flowering -plants would we therefore advocate
the admittance of hardy florists' flowers into the flower garden proper,
but as valuable helps to these, and as forming a feature in the garden
of a style of beauty which can stand on its own merits. As a matter
of necessity, the number of kinds of flowers which can thus be em-
ployed is restricted to those which flower freely and continuously
through the late summer and autumn months ; all kinds which
cannot be depended on to fulfil that condition being inadmissible
in arrangements whose richest term of beauty is seen in autumn.
I should like to see all these improved forms of hardy flowers removed
from their position in beds marked off in corners of kitchen-gardens,
and made the most of in the best decorative position that can be found
for them. All of them can be admitted to the mixed hardy border,
to the enhancement of their individual charms, and the increased
beauty of these borders ; but we ought not to stop there, in the case of
plants which are fitted to add to the attractiveness of gardens laid out
on grass. Some plants, as the Dahlia and the Phlox, have been made
use of as decorative garden plants ; but, and especially in the case of
the Dahlia, only dwarf-growing varieties have, as a rule, been con-
sidered admissible for this purpose. Now I think this is a mis-
take ; some of the tallest sorts are the best decorative plants. In
Phloxes, for instance, I don't know any better kinds than such tall
sorts as Lothair, Bryan Wynne, or Charlotte Saison ; and the same
rule will generally be found to apply to other kinds of flowers.

In arranging the plants, I would not so much plant them in a mass,
as dot them thickly over the beds. We have, for instance, a bed
which has been bright with Roses, planted with an undergrowth of
"Sir Walter Scott" Viola, and dotted with Hollyhocks, the edging
being Campanula pumila alba. Unfortunately the disease which is so
destructive to Hollyhocks has attacked these, and we have had to de-
stroy the whole of them, in order to save, if possible, a lot of clean
plants half a mile off. A light-coloured Gladiolus, such as Shakespeare,
may be dotted amongst scarlet Geraniums, or Brenchleyensis amongst
a mixture of Bijou Geranium and light-blue Violas j and so with other

i88i.] BOTANY FOR GARDENERS. 415

shades. Beds of one colour of Pentstemons may be planted with an
undergrowth of such dwarf-growing plants as Koniga variegata, mix-
tures of Polemonium variegatum and Blue Lobelia, or many other plants.
The best Pentstemons for this purpose will be found in any or all of
the undernoted sorts : Mrs Sutherland Walker, and Mr Pi. Dean, both
red, may be used together; Junius, Brutus, Lady Boswell, Miss C.
Taylor, and Champion, are all purplish crimson in hue, and may be
used together ; Egerton Hubbard and Abbot's Meadows are dark purple,
and do together ; Eclipse, light rose ; James Harknell, deep rose; Can-
didate, crimson ; Inimitable, purplish crimson, and Master Fox Tarbet,
— are all well adapted for the above purpose. All are dark sorts, as
Pentstemons which are light in colours are not effective as decorative
subjects. We shall have our stock rooted by the time this appears, but
there is yet plenty of time to strike plants before winter sets in. I
find that weakly plants never make up ground sufficiently to be of
any value, even when the cultivation is good. To get really fine plants,
with six to a dozen strong spikes to each, it is advisable to pot them
up in spring. Their value is not nearly sufiiciently recognised.

The dot style of planting all these will be found, on the whole, more
attractive in most gardens than that of massing them closely together.
If the garden is very large, it is, of course, possible to take liberties
and make capital hits, which in ordinary-sized gardens prove a blunder
not to be repeated. And we northern gardeners have within our reach
a class of plants which in the south cannot be used with anything like
the same effect. We fail with many subtropical plants, such as Cannas,
Castor-oil plants, and others of massive leafage. But these hardy
plants, are better adapted to our northern climate than they are to
that of the south, and give to our flower-gardens a feature which, with
the aid of such massive plants as Tritomas, Sun-flowers, herbaceous
and annual Salvias, and other hardy late-flowering plants, relieve the
dumpiness which has been too much the order of the day for many
years. K P. B.

BOTANY FOR GARDENERS.

NO. IX. — SEEDS.

The seed is the grand provision for continuing and multiplying
vegetable species, and presents a considerable analogy in the vascular
classes of the vegetable kingdom to an egg in the oviparous classes of
the animal. Every seed, if properly fertilised, contains the embryo or
rudiment of a future plant, and comprises an ample and most beautiful
provision for its protection during dormancy, and for arousing and
feeding it at the time of germination.

In some cases the embryo occupies the whole of the interior ; and
in some cases it is so small as to be minute ; and again it is altogether
absent. In the two former cases the seed is termed albuminous : the

416 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

Bean or Pea when the skin is taken off presents a good example of
nothing but the embryo. The embryo of the seed of a Palm when cut
vertically is very small and white. The seed may also be described as
the ovule {see No. VII.) arrived at maturity, and consists of integuments,
— collectively termed testa, which consist of membranes resulting from
the sacs of the ovule, and sometimes expanded into wings, that are
probably intended to render seeds buoyant, and are frequently spongy,
and sometimes consist of spiral cells, — and embryo — which is the
organised body that lies within the seed, for the purpose of protecting
and nourishing which the seed was created — and was originally included
within the sac of the amnios which contains a fluid in which the
embryo is developed, and which is usually absorbed or obliterated
during the advances of the embryo to maturity ; being exceptional in
the case of Vitellus, &c., where it remains surrounding the ripe embryo.

The embryo consists of (1) cotyledons, (2) radicle, (3) plumule, and
(4) collar. The cotyledons represent undeveloped leaves, — a very good
example is found in the Broad Bean, whose cotyledons, after perform-
ing the required functions under the soil, are afterwards formed into
the first leaves or cotyledon leaves. The radicle is (the rudiment of)
the descending axis or root, which throws out fibrils and spongioles, to
absorb moisture and other nourishment, and to preserve the plant's
equilibrium. The plumule is the ascending axis, which gives out the
stems, leaves, flowers, &c. The collar is the line of separation between
the radicle and the cotyledons, and the space between the collar and
base of the cotyledons is called cauliculus.

The direction of the embryo, with respect to the seed, will depend
upon the relation that the integuments, (l) the raj^he {i.e., the cord of
fibro-vascular tissue which connects the base of the nucleus of an ovule
with a placenta); (2) the chalaza (the part of the seed where the
nucleus joins the integuments, and is invariably opposite the end of
the cotyledons) ; (3) the hilum ; and (4) the micropyle (the aperture
in the skin of a seed which was once the foramen of the ovule) —
bear to each other. If the nucleus be erect, the embryo will be in-
verted, or antitropal : Ex. Nettle. If the nucleus be inverted, the
embryo will be erect, or orthotropal : Ex. Apple. If the micropyle is
at neither end of the seed, the embryo will be neither erect nor
inverted, but will be in a more or less oblique direction with respect
to the seed ; and it is said to be heterotropal : Ex. Primrose.

These must not be confounded with similar terms applied to the
ovule, and consequently to the seed itself. In general seeds are, like
ovules, enclosed within a covering, arising from a carpellary leaf ; but
all gymnosperms are an exception to this. Moreover, some ovules rup-
ture the ovary soon after they begin to advance towards the state of
the seed, and thus become naked seeds : Ex. Leontics. Others are
imperfectly protected by the ovary, the carpels not being perfectly
closed up : Ex. Reseda.

i88i.] SOME NOTES. 417

A very easy and simple way of examining the growth of the plumule,

radicle, &c., is to grow some of the large Broad Beans on damp cloth,

or else in a little earth, when the successive growth of each can be

very plainly seen, the radicle making the first appearance, followed by

the plumule. W. Roberts.

{To he continued.)

STAI^DAKD PLANTS TN DOORS AND OUT.

Where a choice arrangement is specially desirable with plants of fine
foliage or those which flower freely, we always prefer a goodly num-
ber of standards. Extensive shubberies which we planted some years
ago are now much admired, when the kinds formed as standards are
in full flower, or at their best with foliage. First of all they w^ere
arranged as to height, colour, and form. The heads, cut rather formal
the first year, for the sake of uniformity of growth, but afterwards
encouraged to droop, the undergrowth are a proportionate mixture of
showy flowering shrubs, of nearly every name worthy of cultiva-
tion. Plenty of Lilacs, flowering Currants of sorts, Cotoneaster Sim-
ondsii. Hollies, Weigela, Deutzias of sorts. Rhododendrons, Kal-
mias, Azaleas, double Furze, Broom, yellow and white, Syringas, &c.
Amongst these are a great variety of evergreens, Coniferse of the
Cypress and smaller -growing class, Yews in variety, Retinosporas,
Portugals, and so on ; and the whole surface of soil is carpeted with
Ferns, such as Osmundas, Lastrseas, (fee, with a goodly mixture of
Berberis, St John's Wort, and other dwarfs. Plenty of Snowdrops,
Hyacinths, Violets, Primroses, &c., occupy vacant patches. These,
with the Palm-like standards — Birches, double Cherries, Crabs, a selec-
tion of Apples and Pears, forming a large proportion of the flowering
kinds, kept at proper distances not to overshade, — make a most
pleasing picture. Under glass the same idea is carried out with
standards of Fuchsias, Kalosanthes, Acacias, Azaleas, Heaths, Marechal
Niel Roses, Tree-ferns, Camellias, and others ; under which is a carpet
of bushy forms of Ferns, Pelargoniums, Heaths, Begonias, and endless
favourites, which are much admired by visitors. " Old Sub."

SOME NOTES.

Stratagem Pea. — This Pea has proved a complete failure with us
this season. Perhaps the cold wet season may have something to
do with its failure ; still other varieties — such as Ne Plus Ultra, Tele-
phone, (fee. — have cropped well. From our experience, we are per-
fectly aware of the fact that Peas tliat are first-rate in some local-
ities are scarcely worth growing in others. Veitch's Perfection, for

418 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

instance, a Pea that is a standard in many, if not most, places, is
in this soil and climate very indifferent, though not so complete a
failure as Stratagem.

Odontoglossum Vexillarium. — A wonderfully fine variety of this
lovely Orchid has recently flowered at Fernfield, Bridge of Allan. The
colour is remarkably telling, and it has the peculiarity of producing
branched flower-spikes, which is the first instance of this Orchid doing
so. If it retains this characteristic in conjunction with its other excel-
lent points, it will become an acquisition. But unfortunately it has
a trick of going suddenly off when it attains to a large size, and we
believe the manner of watering has something to do with this.
Water should not be applied close to the collar or neck of the plants.
The bulbs and leaves of this Odontoglot are much more soft and
tender than any other, and on this account it should be potted high
and extra well drained.

Tuberous Begonias. — Another year's experience of these as border-
plants more than confirms our high opinion of them for outdoor decora-
tion. In fact they are by far the most effective beds amongst very
many things this exceptionally wet and sunless summer. Large plants
can be had the first season from seed sown in the end of January or
early in February ; and these can be grown to almost any size the
second year. Many fail in getting the seed to vegetate, chiefly, we
think, because they cover it. It should be sown in a moderately
fine surface of light rich soil and not covered, but merely covering the
seed-pan with a piece of glass or paper. The surface should never be
allowed to become dry; and it vegetates best in a temperature of 65°
to 70°. As bedding-plants, they are most easily managed. The bulbs
can be pitted, mixed with moderately moist soil, and kept from frost
till they show signs of sprouting, when they are " run out " into light
rich soil in cold frames, from which they are transplanted into their
flowering quarters. In moist localities Geraniums have no chance
with Begonias for a display of brilliant bloom.

Green Frogs in Orchid-houses. — These little jumping beauties are
most useful creatures among Orchids. They devour all sorts of in-
sects, such as slaters, ants, &c., and are themselves perfectly harmless
among the plants, jumping about on the slenderest stems and leaves
without doing any harm to the plants. Dr Paterson of Fernfield has
a lot of these nimble little creatures in his houses, and no such thing as
a slater, ant, &c., escapes them.

Clerodendron Balfouriana. — As a rafter-plant in a cool house this is
a most useful and ornamental flowering-plant. It comes into bloom
in a cool fernery (where no fire-heat is applied in summer) about the
beginning of August ; and grown in this cool way, it lasts a long time
in bloom. By having a plant or two on the rafters of the warm stove
where it blooms in spring, and again in autumn, this lovely climber
may be had in bloom the greater part of the year. For cutting and

i88i.] A FEW SHOWY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 419

mixing with Bougainvillea glabra it is most useful, and if the two
plants are bloomed near each other, the effect of the two colours is
very chaste.

Begonias of the ornamental - foliaged or Rex type are not so
much made use of as they might be. They are so extremely easy
to grow, and so clean and fresh-looking, that scarcely any other plant
is better adapted for growing below stages, by the sides of passages, or
any — often bare and unsightly — places in all houses that are slightly
above the temperature of a greenhouse. They even do under gratings
where such are used for paths ; and dotted here and there under stages,
with the general surface covered with Selaginella denticulata, few
things are more effective. All unsightly or bare places on the floor-
level of plant-houses can thus be clothed with very pleasing and re-
freshing-looking verdure.

A FEW SHOWY HERBACEOUS PLANTS.

Lythrum salicaria roseum superbum (Loosestrife). — This is one of
the finest hardy herbaceous plants that we have. It is a stately-look-
ing plant — well-established plants of it growing to 4 feet in height. The
stems are very stiff, and in sheltered positions it can be grown without
much, if any, support. It produces its long spikes of dark-rosy flowers
in July and August. It thrives, like other Lythrums, best in rather
damp deep soil ; and where these conditions of soil do not exist, it
requires to be well watered in dry weather.

Galega officinalis alba (Goat's Rue). — This is also a stately and most
effective back-line plant in mixed borders. It produces its handsome
spikes of white flowers for a long time in succession. It is a Pea-
flower (Leguminosse), and is an excellent plant for supplying graceful
racemes of white flowers for mixing in glasses or any of the purposes
for which cut-flowers are used. Blooms from June till September.

Anther^'* tinctoria. — This is a very brilliant golden-yellow daisy-look-
ing plant (a Chamomile) that forms a graceful bush about 2 feet high,
and flowers most profusely ; and now that single blooms are more in
fashion, it should be a favourite. At all events it is a most effective
border plant, producing blooms about the size of the Marguerite
Daisy. Blooms in July and early part of August.

(Enothera speciosa (one of the Evening Primroses). — This is a most
showy white flower. It grows about 2 feet high, and produces large
blooms — quite 3 inches across — for a long time, from June till the
middle or end of August.

Trollius davaricus. — As far as colour is concerned this is particularly
rich — a bright orange-yellow. The flowers are large and open, more
than 2 inches across. Height about 16 inches. Blooms in July and
August, and is a most effective plant for mixed borders.

2 E

420 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

Geranium armenium. — A compact but vigorous-growing, distinct,
and very beautiful plant. Leaves handsomely laciniated, and strong
branching flower-stems, about 18 inches high. Flowers rich purplish
rose, with black centres. July and August.

EAST liOTHIAlSr STOCKS.

Although it is a good many years since the editor of this magazine
brought these famous Stocks prominently before the public in the
'Scottish Gardener,' I do not think they have yet received the at-
tention their great merits deserve, and in many instances their capa-
bilities as decorative plants have not by any means been brought out.
No doubt climate has much to do with the perfection they can be
brought to, and that it is in dry warm localities like the Lothians they
do best. The treatment they receive, from the time the seed is sown
till the plants are put out in the borders, has, however, much to do
with their success.

In order to get these Stocks to produce an abundance of large spikes
of bloom for a long time, the seed should be sown thinly in boxes, the
last week of February or early in March, and be placed not, in heat
but in a house or pit very little warmer than a common greenhouse,
keeping them near the glass. Before they become crowded or drawn
in the seedling state, they should be potted into 4-inch pots, and grown
in the same intermediate state till they get pretty well established ;
then they should be put into cold frames near the glass, and by the
end of April or beginning of May they will be ready to plant out. The
beds should always be in a warm position well exposed to the sun.
The soil in which they do best is a rather sandy loam, well enriched
with old hotbed manure. They should not be planted closer than 16
inches each way. Managed thus, they do not receive any check at
planting-time, and they progress into strong bushy plants, that, in warm
localities especially, yield spikes of bloom from a foot to 15 inches long,
and continue in flower from early in July till autumn ; and I do not
know of any other plants that pay better, by giving a fine display of
bloom, for any extra treatment they receive.

This strain of Stocks has been well abused by many who have been
supplied with seed under the name of East Lothian Stock which has
not been true ; for the strain is not yet over-plentiful, and purchasers
should make sure that they are supplied with the true strain.

To save seed, the single plants should be potted up in October, and
planted out when severe frosts are over in spring, taking care to keep
the various colours well apart, or cross-fertilisation takes place, and the
colours become broken and unsatisfactory.

For greenhouse decoration these Stocks are most useful. By lift-
ing and potting the double ones in autumn, and wintering them in any

i88i.] DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCLATION. 421

cool bouse or pit, they produce a wonderful crop of bloom in spring, and
are most useful for arranging among bulbous flowering-plants, Ciner-
arias, and other spring-flowering subjects. All the varieties, white,
purple, and scarlet, are equally valuable for this purpose, and I think
their colours are never more pure and efi'ective than in spring. They
last a long time, and are very useful for cutting. In this way they can
be had in bloom the greater part of the year, and when the strain is
true we do not get tired of them. A Florist.

DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The ordinary monthly meeting of this Association was held in the
Templar Hall, Reform Street, on Friday evening, the 5th ult. — the
President, Mr Doig, Rossie Priory Gardens, in the chair. Mr James
Grieve, Pilrig Park Nurseries, Edinburgh, read a paper on "Florists'
Flowers." As subjects for his remarks he made choice of the Carna-
tion, Pink, Phlox, Pentstemon, and the Viola and Pansy. These he
considered the most valuable of the many so-called florists' flowers.
He gave the first place to the Pinks and Carnations, than which no
richer flowers were in cultivation. The herbaceous Phlox and the
Pentstemon then claimed Mr Grieve's attention. Most of the florists'
species of these, he said, were natives of America, and appear to have
been introduced into this country at various times from 1732 to 1818.
The Viola and Pansy were then treated of: though last on his list, they
were by no means the least worthy. No other class of plants ranked
higher in favour with the multitude ; nor was this to be wondered at,
seeing they flourished in almost any soil, blooming profusely in many
cases from early spring to early winter. This was especially true of
some of the bedding Violas introduced of late years, some of which
might well be termed perpetual bloomers. In treating these subjects,
Mr Grieve detailed in full the most successful and approved methods
of cultivation. In speaking of the culture of the Viola and Pansy,
Mr Grieve (an acknowledged authority) said they were in many cases
killed with over-kindness. All the knowledge required for even a
novice might be contained in a nutshell. The first essential was deep
digging, with a good supply of well-rotted manure ; of equal import-
ance, though less generally practised, was early planting and jilanting
degp, at least up to within an inch of the head of the plant. Planted
in this way, every eye under the surface would send up a shoot, and
thus form fine bushy plants, while at the same time the roots would
be protected from the summer drought. Another advantage gained
by this system of planting was that it obviated the necessity of water-
ing, which in the case of Pansies almost invariably produced scalding
or damping off at the necks.

Mr John NicoU, Arbroath, then read a most interesting and highly

422 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

instructive paper on "Natural and Artificial Hybridisation." He
introduced his subject by noticing the minute and intricate nature
of the processes by which the reproduction of plants are effected,
and proceeded to give a description of the various parts of a flower,
pointing out those more immediately connected with the produc-
tion of seed, — some of the most common modes by which fertil-
isation is effected being by agencies in some instances within, in
others beyond, the flower. The wind and insects are the principal
agents in this operation when the flower is not adapted for self-fertili-
sation, and ob.servation shows how perfect are the means for accom-
plishing this object. When there is no gaily coloured flowers to allure
insects, the pollen is light and powdery, and wind is commonly the
means of transfer; but when flowers have bright-coloured corollas,
there is also, in most cases, honey to induce the visits of insects, or at
any rate pollen as food for the young of the domestic bee, and the
pollen is of a gummy nature. Insects in quest of food carry off some
of the pollen-grains, and in their visits to other flowers deposit at least
a part of these grains on the stigma. In addition to that class of
plants which are unable to fertilise themselves in consequence of the
sexual organs being on different plants, or at least in different flowers,
there are others in which the sexual organs, though together, are not
matured or sufficiently developed at the same time. Sometimes the
stigma is in a ripe or receptive state long before the stamens are fully
developed ; while in other cases, the anthers shed the pollen-grains
before the stigma is in a state to receive them. An example of this
latter arrangement is to be seen in the Campanula family, where the
pollen is not only shed, but in some cases the anthers are completely
withered away before the stigma is fully developed. On the other hand,
the Plantain or Ribgrass furnishes an example where the stigma has
become developed and decayed before the stamens make their appear-
ance on the same flower. The examples referred to will indicate that
nature has made ample provision for cross-fertilisation, and that in
the vegetable as well as in the animal world close breeding is pro-
vided against.

Mr NicoU then spoke of the amazing number of the pollen-grains,
and their great variety of form in different species. When pollen from
the same flower, or different flowers on the same plant, or even from a
different plant of the same species, is deposited on the stigma, and fer-
tilisation follows, no change need be looked for in the future progeny
from seed thus fertilised, further than may be produced by cultivation,
change of soil, climate, or other extraneous conditions — in short, no
hybrid form will result. It was only in cases of cross-fertilisation be-
tween two distinct species that a new form might be looked for. But
even though no improvement, or even alteration, were to result, cross-
fertilisation might be of great value in regard to the extra production
of seed.

i88i.] STIRLING HORTICULTURAL SHOW. 423

A Mr Williams, experimenting on the Victoria Regina, got the fol-
lowing results : a flower naturally fertilised produced 25 seeds ;
artificially fertilised with its own pollen, 60 seeds ; artificially fertil-
ised with pollen from a separate flower on the same plant, 100 seeds ;
while a flower fertilised with pollen from a separate plant produced
300 seeds, or 12 times that of the naturally fertilised flower. This
showed how important, from a mercantile point of view, cross-fertilisa-
tion may become, if seeds entering largely in common use can be thus
increased. In some parts of Germany, when fields of grain are in
bloom, and the anthers in the act of shedding the pollen, a rope is
drawn across the heads of the grain to insure better fertilisation than
would be effected naturally. There had been considerable discussions
as to whether the male or female elements have most influence in de-
termining the character of the plant resulting from cross-fertilisation.
Some have held the theory that the male parent has in all cases the
greatest power; others hold that the result depends not upon the male
parent, but upon the proportionate health and vigour of both parents.
It was reasonable to suppose that, if the male and female parents are
equal in all respects, the progeny will show some intermediate charac-
teristics ; whereas, if one parent be superior in constitutional energy
and sexual vitality, the future progeny may be expected to partake
most of its distinctive features.

In closing his paper, Mr Nicoli pointed to the many inducements
cross-fertilisation offered to the scientist, as well as to those who, caring
little for the exactness of science, seek rather to increase the produc-
tions of nature, either for utility or beauty.

STIRLIISTG HORTICULTURAIj SOCIETY'S SHOW.

The Show of this Society, which was held in the show- ground of, and in connec-
tion with, the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland's Show, on July
26, 27, 28, and 29, was, so far as exhibits are concerned, a complete success.
In absence of any other stirring horticultural event in Scotland, it may in
some sense be regarded as the event of the year ; although we must character-
ise as absurd the statement that appeared in one at least of the local papers,
that "it was equal to any similar exhibition in the country, not even except-
ing the metropolitan one." That it was "equal to any similar exhibition"
may be true ; but that it was equal to such Shows as are from time to time to
be seen even as near our doors as Edinburgh, Dundee, or Glasgow, is not a
fact. It was, nevertheless, a fairly creditable show, and many iSne examples
of cultivation were staged. Among foliage-plants, the Crotons from Mr John
Russel, Keir House, were good examples of culture. Among stove and
greenhouse flowering-plants was a grand specimen of Pancratium speciosum,
with over a dozen extra-strong spikes of marvellously fine flowers, in the four
staged by Joseph Souza, Touch (gardener to Sir H. J. Seton-Stewart), to
which was awarded the premium prize in that class. Among Ferns, the only
noteworthy lot was the two Todeas and magnificent Platyceriiim grande, which

424 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

gained for Dr Paterson, Bridge of Allan, the first prize in the class for three.
The collections were of the usual kind, and by no means particularly well
arranged. The winning collection (18 ft. x 7 ft.), of Mr Thomas Boyd, gar-
dener to Wm. Forbes, Esq., Callander House, Falkirk, contained four remark-
ably fine specimens of Eucharis amazonica, which rendered his table much
brighter than the others, and doubtless did much to secure him the first place.
The table-plants were of the usual kind which are to be seen at every Show,
and were fairly good. Most, however, were too small, and too valuable and
tender for the purpose. Cockscombs were particularly fine, reminding one of
those exhibited by such growers as Mr Syme. Liliums were not " as good as
may be seen anywhere," although a local oracle declared them to be so. Or-
chids were nothing remarkable. Among cut-flowers, the Eoses from Mr Gray,
Dunkeld, and A. Kirk, Norwood, were exceedingly line. Grand stands were
staged (for exhibition only) by Messrs Dickson, Belmont, Belfast, and Smith,
Stranraer. The first prize Pansies, both fancy and show, from Mr T. Pater-
son, Denny, were such as are seen at northern shows only. Among cut-flower?,
perhaps the most attractive were the grand Phloxes and spikes of hardy
herbaceous flowers. Should such summers prevail as have now become chronic
apparently, these hardy plants must ere long become more largely grown.

Fruit, especially Grapes, was shown in quantity and quality not often seen
outside of Edinburgh, and not always there. As much dissatisfaction prevailed
in regard to the awards, we prefer to single out no particular exhibitors,
although some of those who failed to secure prizes staged samples which were
exceedingly fine. We understand that the interpretation put upon certain
rules by the judges, led to awards being made which, without explanation,
appeared quite incomprehensible. For instance, in the class for any other
black than Hamburg, Alicants were placed before equally well-coloured, well-
bloomed, and riper Muscat Hamburgs; and the same thing occurred in the class
for best bloom. The collection of ten dishes from Mr Boyd, which gained the
first prize, was very meritorious, and included beautiful examples of Grapes,
Peaches, Bananas, and Figs, in addition to Melons and outdoor fruit, all of
which were fine. The Melons which gained the two firsts for Mr Thomson,
Kilkerran, Maybole, were remarkably fine samples. The green flesh was
"William Tillery : we could not ascertain the name of the scarlet. T. Boyd's
Peaches were fine and well coloured. Black Currants were extremely fine —
indeed were comparable to Black Hamburg Grapes ; finer we have never seen.
Most of the other classes were fair, though some were blanks altogether, as,
for instance, Apricots and Nectarines.

Vegetables were, considering the season, verj'- fine indeed. Mr Souza's first-
prize box of ten kinds was quite remarkable.

We are sorry that we cannot say something in favour of the arrangements
made by the Society's officials. According to the rules, exhibitors were obliged
to have everything staged by 10 A.M., and yet by that hour a third or more of
the tables were to erect, and one of the three tents. The consequence was,
that staging and judging went on simultaneously, and the judges had to go
over the fruit three times. Not only so, but the judges had to group the
classes, and to do so each card containing exhibitor's name ^;n'?i<ecf in consjncu-
ous cajntals had to be turned face up to ascertain the number of the class — a
very objectionable proceeding, but not the judges' fault. It would have been
much better if the officials had adhered to the rule, which was to the effect
that only sealed envelopes, containing the exhibitors' names inside, and only
the numbers outside, were to be affixed to each lot. The placing of the cards

i88i.]

STIRLING HORTICULTURAL SHOW.

425

as the envelopes were opened would have been a simple and a satisfactory
matter. The final arrangement of plants, &c., was made at the close of the
first day's exhibition.

The following gentlemen officiated as judges, and, from their well-known
character", it is hardly necessary to say with acceptance : For Cut-flowers —
Messrs Lewin, Drumpellier ; and J. Whitton, Coltness. Vegetables — J. Begg,
Lanrick; D. Mathieson, Meikleour. Fruit — Johnstone, Glamis Castle; and
M. Macintyre, The Glen. Plants — E. Fleming, Garscube ; Lewin ; Whitton ;
and J. Paterson, Millbank, Edinburgh.

PRIZE LIST.

Class I.— Open to all.

Plants.

Finest Collection of Plants arranged I Falkirk ; 2, J. Russell, Keir ; 3, J. Rob
for EflFect. — 1, T. Boyd, Callendar House, | ertson, Springbank.

Class II.— Open to Gardeners and Amateurs only.

Plants.

Finest Collection of Plants arranged
for Effect.— 1, W. Lowe, Viewforth ; 2,
J. Souza, Touch; 3, A. Fergusoa, Wood-
ville.

Four Stove and Greenhouse Plants, in
flower, distinct species. — 1, J. Souza;

2, H. Watson, Park Terrace ; 3, J. Rus-
sell.

Six Fine-foliaged or Variegated Plants
(exclusive of Ferns). — 1, J. Russell; 2,
V/. Lowe; 3, J. Muir, Randolphfield.

Six Stove or Greenhouse Ferns, varie-
ties (Tree Fern excluded). — 1, A. Kirk,
Norwood, Alloa; 2, J. Souza; 3, W.
Lowe.

Three Stove or Greenhouse Ferns, var-
ieties (Tree Fern excluded).—!, Dr Pat-
erson, Bridge of Allan ; 2, P. Brown,
Hillpark, Bannockburn ; 3, A. Ferguson.

One Tree Fern.— 1, J. Russell; 2, A.
Honeyman, Bonnybridge.

Six Hardy Ferns, varieties. — 1, P.
Brown ; 2, J. Souza; 3, W. Lowe.

Six Plants for Table Decoration. — 1,
W. Lowe ; 2, J. Robertson, Springbank ;

3, J. Cocker, Wheatlands, Bonnybridge.
Three Orchids, in flower (Exotic). — I,

Dr Paterson ; 2, A. Honeyman.

Three pots Liliums, varieties. — 1, J.
Robertson, Roseville.

Three Caladiums, varieties. — 1, J.
Souza ; 2, A. Kirk ; 3, W. Lowe.

Three Coleus. — 1, J. Souza; 2, J.
Robertson, Springbank ; 3, J. Muir.

Two Specimen Fuchsias, in flower. — 1,
H. Watson ; 2, J. Muir ; 3. J, Souza.

Three Specimen Ornamental -foliage
Geraniums, varieties. — 1. J. Souza; 2,
A. Brown, Orchill ; 3, A. Ferguson.

Three Zonale Geraniums, in flower,
varieties. — 1, A. Kirk; 2, J. Robertson,
Springbank ; 3, J. Souza.

Three Cockscombs, in pots. — 1, J.
Muir; 2, J. Souza; 3, W. W. Ritchie.

Four Specimen Exotic Lycopodiums
varieties. — 1, J. Robertson ; 2, J. Souza ;
3, James Cossar, Linlithgow.

Two Trained Petunias, varieties. —1,
H. Watson ; 2, J. Muir; 3, J. Souza.

Three Balsams.— 1, W. Lowe ; 2, W.
W. Ritchie.

Two pots or pans Achimenes, sorts. —
1, J. Souza ; 2, J. Robertson, Spring-
bank.

One Hanging Basket filled with Plants.
— 1, J. Robertson, Roseville; 2. J. Souza.

One Rustic Fern Case, planted. — 1, H.
Wood, Callander.

Cut Floivers.

Twelve Blooms Roses, varieties. — 1, A.
H. Gray, Dunkeld ; 2. Alex. Kirk, Nor-
wood ; 3, John Thomson, Maybole.

Six Blooms Roses, varieties. — 1, James
Dick, Kippen; 2, W. W. Ritchie, Pol-
maise ; 3, J. Souza.

Twelve Blooms Show Pansies, varieties.
— 1, Thos. Paterson, Denny ; 2, J. Stew-
art, Lennoxtown ; 3, John Beatson, Alva.

Twelve Blooms Fancy Pansies, varie-
ties.— 1, T. Paterson ; 2, J. Stewart ; 3,
A. Kirk.

Twelve Quilled Asters, not less than
three varieties. — R. Montgomery, Beech-
wood.

Six French Marigolds, striped. — 1, R.
Montgomery ; 2, J. Thomson ; 3. J.
Souza.

Six African Marigolds, orange and
lemon, three of each. — 1, G. M'Leod,
Westbourne ; 2, A. Ferguson, Woodville ;
3, J. Thomson.

Six Spikes Ten- Week Stocks, varieties.
— 1, J. Souza; 2, H. Watson, Park Ter-
race; 3, J. Muir, Randolphfield.

426

THE GARDENER.

[Sept.

Twelve Phloxes, varieties. — 1, G.
M'Leod; 2, J. Dick; 3, J. Stewart.

Twelve Geranium Trusses, varieties,
one of each.— 1, A. Brown, Orchil! : 2,
H. Watson ; 3, A. Kirk.

Twelve Hardy Herbaceous, varieties.—

1, R. Montgomery ; 2, A. Ferguson ; 3,
G. Dingwall, Ardoch House.

Twelve Hardy Annuals, varieties, one
bouquet of each sort. — 1, A. Ferguson;

2, J. Thomson.

Six Tender Annuals, varieties, one
bouquet of each sort.— J. Thomson.

One Hand Bouquet. — 1, J. Paterson,
Dunfermline ; 2, H. Watson ; 3, G. Ding-
wall.

One Table Bouquet.— 1, T. Boyd, Cal-
lendar House, Falkirk ; 2. J. Cossar, Lin-
lithgow ; 3, J. Paterson.

Floral Device.— 1, W. Street, Burgh-
muir, Stirling ; 2, J. Cossar, Linlithgow.

Fruits.

Collection of twelve sorts of Fruits. —

1, T. Boyd, Callendar House, Falkirk ; 2,
W, Lowe; 3, G. M'Leod, VVestbourne,
Tillicoultry.

Collection of Hardy Fruits, eight varie-
ties.—1, W. Lowe ; 2, J. Paterson, Torrie
Gardens, Dunfermline.

Three bunches of Grapes, three varie-
ties.— 1, J. Robertson, Springbank ; 2, J.
Dewar, Beechwood, Tillicoultry; 3, Alex.
Crosbie, Buchanan Castle, Dry men.

Two bunches of Grapes, one black
and one white. — 1, James Dewar; 2, G.
M'Call, Woodlands ; 3. J. Robertson.

One bunch Black Hamburg. — 1, A.
Kirk ; 2. H. Watson ; 3, J. Robertson.

One bunch Black, any other sort.— 1,
G. M'Call; 2, J. Boyd; 3, A. Kirk.

One bunch White Muscat. — 1, A. Cros-
bie ; 2, J. Souza; 3, G. M'Call.

One bunch White, any other sort. — 1,
J. Dewar ; 2, J. Robertson ; 3, A. Honey-
man, Hopepark, Bonnybridge.

One bucch Grape, finest bloom. — 1, G.
M'Call; 2, H. Watson; 3, D. Howie,
Culross.

One bunch (not less than one pound),
finest flavoured . — L J. Souza ; 2, D, Mur-
ray, Calzean Gardens, Maybole.

One bunch (not less than one pound),
largest berry. — 1, J. Dewar ; 2, J. Souza.

One Melon, green fleshed. — 1, J. Thom-
son, Kilkerran ; 2, W. W. Ritchie ; 3, G.
M'Leod.

One Melon, scarlet fleshed. — 1, J.
J. Thomson ; 2, R. Montgomery ; 3, J.
Muir, Randolphfield.

Six Peaches.— 1, J. Boyd ; 2, J. Thom-
son ; 3, Jas. Cocker, Bonnybridge.

Twenty-five Cherries.— 1, J. Thomson ;

2, J. Souza; 3, J. Robertson.

One Pint Strawberries (or two pounds
in weight).— 1, W. W. Ritchie; 2, J.
Paterson ; 3, J. Souza.

One Pint Gooseberries, do. — 1, J,
Thomson ; 2, J. Dick ; 3, J. Souza.

One Pint Currants, red, do. — 1, Janif s
Cossar, Liidithgow; 2, W. Lowe; 3, J.
Thomson.

One Pint Currants, white, do. — 1, W.
Boss, Gartur ; 2, J. Russell, Keir ; 3, J.
Tliomson.

One Pint Currants, black, do. — ], J.
Dick ; 2, W. Boss ; 3, J. Thomson.

Vegetables.

A Box of Vegetables, ten varieties. —

1, J. Souza ; 2. W. Boss, Gartur ; 3, J.
Thomson.

Two Cauliflowers — 1, J. Thomson ; 2,
W. Boss ; 3, G. Dingwall.

Two Early Cabbages. — 1, J. Thomson ;

2, A. Kirk, Norwood, Alloa ; 3, J. Souza.
Two Heads Celery, red. — 1, D. Mur-
ray, Calzean; 2, J, Souza; 3, H. Wat-
son.

Two Heads Celery, white. — 1, J. Rob-
ertson ; 2, J. Souza ; 3, J. Thomson.

Twenty -five Pods Peas. — 1, J. Dick,
Kippen ; 2, J. Graham, Thornhill ; 3, W.
W. Ritchie, Polmaise.

Twenty-five Pods Beans. — 1, A. Kirk ;
2, J. Thomson; 3, W. Christie, Kippen -
ross.

Twenty-five Pods Kidney Beans. — 1,
W. W. Ritchie ; 2, T. Boyd ; 3, J. Thom-
son.

Twelve Potatoes (round). — 1, J. Thom-
son ; 2, D. Murray ; 3, R. Montgomery,
Beechwood, Stirling.

Twelve Potatoes (kidney). — J. Dick;

2. W. W. Ritchie ; 3, J. Souza.

Six Onions, best. — 1, J. Souza; 2, D.
Murray ; 3, W. Lowe.

Six Leeks, best. — 1, J. Souza ; 2, J.
Robertson ; 3, D. Murray.

Two pots Parsley, single plants. — 1,
W. Lowe ; 2, J. Souza ; 3, J. Robertson.

Six Turnips.— 1, W. Lowe ; 2, J. Dick ;

3, J. Russell.

Six Carrots. — 1, J. Souza ; 2, J. Thom-
son ; 3, J. Muir.

Two Lettuce. — 1, W. Lowe; 2, J.
Souza; 3, J. Cocker.

One Collection of Salads. — J. Thom-
son.

Two Cucumbers. — 1, G. Dingwall; 2,
W. W. Ritchie ; 3, H. Watson.

Two Vegetable Marrows, fit for use
(each from two to three pounds). — 1, D.
Murray ; 2, W. Boss ; 3, W. W. Ritchie.

Six Rhubarb, heaviest stalks. — 1, G.
M'Leod; 2, J. Cossar; 3, A. Ferguson.

88i.]

STIRLING HORTICULTURAL SHOW

427

Class III. — Amateurs 0^'LT,

Plants.

Two Greenhouse Plants, in flower, var-
ieties (not otherwise competed for). — 1,
W. Street ; 2, T. Anderson.

One pot Lilium. — 1, J. Robertson,
Roseville ; 2, A. Leishman.

Two Fine Foliage Plants, varieties. —
1, W. Street ; 2, J. Robertson.

Two Specimens Fuchsias (one light, one
dark). — 1, T, Anderson, Newhouse ; 2,
T. Harris ; 3, A. Wright.

Three British Ferns, varieties. — 1, T.
Harris ; 2, A. Liddell ; 3, W. Chalmers.

Two Greenhouse Ferns, distinct varie-
ties.—!, T. Harris ; 2, A. Wright ; 3, A.
Leishman.

Two Ornamental Foliage Geraniums,
varieties.— 1, A. Wright; 2, T. Harris;
3, T. Anderson.

Two Zonal Geraniums, in flower. — 1,
T. Anderson ; 2, A. Wright; 3, T. Harris.

One Petunia. — 1, T. Anderson ; 2, A.
Liddell ; 3, T. Harris.

One Pelargonium. — -A. Stevenson.

One Balsam. — 1, W. Chalmers ; 2, A.
Liddell ; 3, T. Anderson.

Cid Floicers.
Six Blooms Show Pansies, varieties.—

1, J. R. Hendry, Tillicoultry; 2, J.
Beatson, Alva ; 3, T. Paterson, Denny.

Six Fancy Pansies, varieties. —1, J. R.
Henry; 2, T. Paterson; 3, J. Taylor,
Raploch.

Three Blooms Asters, other than quill-
ed, varieties. — A. Wright, Newhouse.

Three Spikes Ten- Week Stocks, varie-
ties.—!, J. R. Hendry ; 2, T. Harris, St
Ninians ; 3, A. Wright.

Six Blooms French Marigolds — 1, J,
Taylor ; 2, A. Wright ; 3, W. Chalmers,
Tillicoultry.

Six Blooms Roses, varieties. — !, W.
Cousine, Bridge of Allan ; 2, J. Thom-
son, Carronflats ; 3, W. Street.

One Hand Bouqt^et.— !, W. Street ; 2,
J. R. Hendry ; 3, A. Wright.

One Table Bouquet. — !, T, Anderson,
Bannockburn; 2, W. Street; 3, J. R.
Hendry.

Four Pico tees or Pinks. — 1, J. Stewart ;

2, T. Harris ; 3, A. Wright.

Six Sweet - williaras, three varieties,
one spike of each. — !, J. Stewart ; 2, A,
Stevenson, Bannockburn ; 3, T. Ander-
son.

Four Geranium Trusses, four varieties.
— 1, J. Robertson, Roseville ; 2, T. Har-
ris ; 3, A. Leishman, Tillicoultry.

Four Herbaceous Trusses, one spike
each.—!, J. Taylor; 2, T. Harris ; 3, A.
Wright,

Three Herbaceous or Perennial Phlox,
one spike each. — 1, R. Dawson, Thorn-
hill; 2, W. Heron, Alva; 3, J. Beatson.

Six Hardy Annuals, six varieties, one
bouquet of each. — 1, J. Cousin ; 2, D.
Kennedy, Doune ; 3, A. Liddell, Ban-
nockburn.

•" • Three Ornamental Grasses, three var-
ieties, one bouquet of each (Dyed exclud-
ed).— !, A. Stevenson; 2, A. Liddell; 3,
T. Harris.

Fruits.

Two Bunches Grapes, one black and
one white. — !, J. Mitchell, Abercromby
Place ; 2, J. Harrower, Culross ; 3, J.
Robertson, Rosevale.

One Bunch Grapes, Black Hamburg,
— !, W. Street; 2, J. Mitchell; 3, J.
Harrower.

One Bunch Grapes, white, any sort. —
!, W. Street; 2, J, Mitchell ; 3, J. Har-
rower.

One Pound Strawberries.—!, A. Lid-
dell, Bannockburn ; 2, J. Paterson, Den-
ny ; 3, D. Kennedy.

One Pound Rasps.- 1, J. Robertson;

2, A. Liddell; 3. A. Stevenson.

One Pound Gooseberries. — !, D. Ken-
nedy ; 2, A. Stevenson ; 3, A. Leishman.

One Pound Currants, Black. — !, A.
Liddell ; 2, R. Dawson, Thornhill ; 3, D.
l^ennedy.

One Pound Currants, red. — !, W.
Chalmers, Tillicoultry ; 2, D, Kennedy ;

3, A. Leishman,

One Pound Currants, white. — 1, A,
Stevenson ; 2, T. Paterson ; 3, A. Leish-
man,

Vegetables.

Two Heads Greens. — !, A. Liddell; 2,
W, Street ; 3, A. Wright.

Two Early Cabbage. — !, R, Dawson ;
2, T, Anderson; 3, A, Wright,

Two Cauliflower,—!, T, Hutchison,
Alva ; 2, R. Dawson ; 3, W. Street.

Two Carrots. — 1, A. Leishman ; 2, T,
Paterson ; 3, W. Street.

Four Leeks.—!, A, Wright; 2, T,
Harris; 3, T, Anderson.

Six Onions. — !, W, Chalmers; 2, A,
Leishman ; 3, T. Anderson.

Four Turnips, two yellow and two
white. — !, R. Dawson; 2, W. Dickie,
Thornhill ; 3, T. Harris,

Twelve Pods Peas. — 1, Dr James For-
rest, Stirling; 2, R. Dawson; 3, W
Dickie,

Six Pods Beans.—!, J. Mitchell ; 2,
W. Street ; 3, R. DaAvson.

One Pot Parsley, single plant. — !, A.
Wright ; 2, W. Street ; 3, T. Anderson,

Six Potatoes (best).—!, T, Paterson
2, A, Wright ; 3, A. Stevenson.

Six Stalks Rhubarb (heaviest).—!, W.
Chalmers ; 2, A. Leishman ; 3. W.
Street.

428

THE GARDENER.

[Sept.

One Basket or Box Vegetables, eight
varieties!.— 1, T. Paterson; 2, A. Wright;
3, D. Kennedy.

Oj^en to Boys and Girls under 14 years
of age.

Hand Bouquet of Wild Flowers, for

Boys.— 1, J. Brown, Orchill ; 2, A.
Hunter, Inzievar, Row ; 3, C. Souza,
Touch.

Hand Bouquet of Wild Flowers, for
Girls. — 1, Isabella Dingwall, Ardoch ; 2,
Mary Dingwall ; 3, C. B. Lowe, View-
forth.

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY.

August 9th.

GLA.DIOLI from Langport and Petunias from Swanley were the two special
features of the meeting, though new plants were well represented by the
Chelsea firms. The Council-room did not present a crowded appearance, nor
were the duties of either Committee very onerous, but for the fast-advancing
season the exhibits were good in quality and numbers.

Feuit Committee. — Harry J. Veitch, Esq., in the chair. W. H. Dunnett,
Esq., Stour House, Dedham, Essex, sent fruits of a new seedling Black Cur-
rant named Black Champion, for which a first-class certificate was granted.
The individual fruits were of remarkable size, globular, and very black. The
bunches also were unusually large, and, judging by the small branches ex-
hibited, the variety must be an extremely prolific one. Both the members
of the Committee and the horticultural visitors generally were unanimous in
their praises of it, and several unhesitatingly afiirmed it was the finest Black
Currant that has been seen at Kensington. Mr R, Phillips, gardener to Cap-
tain Jackson, The Deodars, Meopham, Kent, showed three handsome bunches
of Duke of Buccleuch Grape, for which a cultural commendation was deserv-
edly awarded. The berries were of remarkable size even for this variety, and
the flavour was good. Fruit of Tomato Perfection, a cross between Trophy
and Acme, were also shown. They were very even and globular in form, and
of excellent colour. It is also said to be prolific. Mr Record, gardener to
Charles Hanbury, Esq,, Belmont House, East Barnet, was awarded a cultural
commendation for three Queen Pine-Apples, of good size, regular in shape,
and of good colour. Messrs T. Rivers & Son, Sawbridgeworth, exhibited a
collection of Cherries, comprising eleven varieties, especially noteworthy
being the handsome Bigarreau Noir de Schmidt, Several other varieties were
also superbly represented. A vote of thanks was accorded. Mr T. Bailey,
The Gardens, Shardeloes, Amersham, sent a finely netted fruit of Victory of
Bristol Melon, weighing 7 lb. 2 oz, Mr J. Monro, The Gardens, Harefield
Grove, Uxbridge, also sent a very large ribbed green-flesh Melon named High-
field Grove Melon, of moderately good flavour, but not great depth of flesh,
Mr J. Walker of Thame obtained a first-class certificate for Pea named
Walker's Perpetual Bearer, a variety of moderate height and prolific, the pods
being about medium size and well filled. Mr H. Eckford, gardener to Dr
Sankey, Sandywell Park, Cheltenham, also had a new Pea named Victor, a
cross between Champion of England and Advancer, but which was not con-
sidered specially remarkable, Mr Culverwell of Thorpe Perrow sent several
seedling Peas that were thought very promising, and recommended to be tried
at Ohiswick. A collection of Apples and fruits of the Pear Bergamotte
Auguste Jurie were contributed from the Society's Garden. Mr Fleming of

i88i.] ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 429

Cliveden, Maidenhead, sent fruits of Dr Hogg Fig in good condition, and the
Committee requested that the variety should be tried at Chiswick.

Messrs Hooper & Co.'s prizes for fruits of the green-flesh Melon Sirdar of
Cabul were accorded to Mr G. Williams, The Gardens, Peasemarsh Place,
Eye, and Mr G. Stiggles, gardener to H. W. Green, Esq., Paulkners House,
Hadlow, Tunbridge, who were placed first and second respectively for fruits
of good size, the former smooth and the latter ribbed. There was no exhibit
in the class for Tomatoes.

Floeal Committee. — James M'Intosh, Esq., in the chair. Messrs J.
Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, staged a beautiful though small group of new
plants, including several fine Orchids, one of which was certificated and is
described below. A Solanum-like plant named Jasmonica Sodenia (?) was
noteworthy for its cymose panicles of white starry flowers ; and hybrid
Cypripediums were also well represented. Mr Bull of Chelsea contributed
a collection of new plants, several being honoured with certificates. Messrs
Kelway & Son, Langport, Somersetshire, had a handsome collection of
Gladioli, over four dozen spikes being shown, the flowers large, and the
colours varied, either exquisitely delicate or strikingly rich and bright. Messrs
H. Cannel & Son, Swanley, contributed a fine display of double Petunia
blooms, 160 being staged, representing many distinct and beautiful varieties.
Some very pretty fringed forms were particularly noteworthy, and the tints
ranged from white to pink of various shades, crimson, and purple, some
being very rich. Several large Sunflowers, fine African Marigolds, specimen
of the dwarf, free, brightly coloured Tropseolum Vesuvius, and varieties of
Salpiglossis sinuata were exhibited by the same firm, for all of which a vote
of thanks and cultural commendations were awarded. Mr A, Waterer, Knap
Hill, "Woking, had some fine examples of Lilium Parkmanni and L. Mrs
Waterer, the former being very handsome and well deserved the cultural
commendation awarded for it. Baskets of Erica vulgaris aurea and alba
nana were also shown, the last-named being very floriferous and compact in
habit. A variegated Abies was certificated, and is described in another
portion of the report. Messrs Carter & Co., High Holborn, exhibited some
good specimens of the deep orange-coloured Lily L. Batemannas ; flowers of a
new bright rose-coloured Eschscholtzia named Eose Cardinal, very pretty;
and flowers of the new dwarf Tropseolum Empress of India, which were very
bright in colour. Mr T. S. Ware, Tottenham, staged a collection of single
Dahlias. A white variety of good form named White Queen was noteworthy?
as were also some yellow, scarlet, and purple forms, Mr W. J. Cross,
florist, Salisbury, sent a stand of blooms of a Carnation named The Governor,
blush white, compact, full, even, and of good substance.

Captain Pattou, Alpha House, Eegent's Park, sent a plant of Lilium auratum
with a peculiar fasciated stem, the numerous flowers being very closely
clustered near the summit. G. F. Wilson, Esq., Weybridge, was awarded
a vote of thanks for a spike of Watsonia rosea, the flowers possessing a very
pretty shade of light rosy purple.

In the vestibule Messrs C. Lee & Son, Hammersmith, had an interesting
collection of hardy trees and shrubs, comprising ornamental and variegated
forms of Oaks, Beeches, Elms, Alders, Horse -Chestnuts, Maples, Elders,
Dogwoods, and many others, all more or less attractive. Messrs F. & A.
Smith of West Dulwich also had a group of Balsams in pots, the plants of
moderate size, but the flowers were of excellent form, very double, and good
in colour. The Committee recommended that medals should be awarded to

430 THE GARDENER. [Sept.

Messrs Kelway for their Gladioli, to Messrs Cannell for their Petunias, and
to Messrs Lee for the hardy plants.

First-class certificates were awarded for the following plants : —

Cattleya Chamherlainiana (Veitch). — A beautiful hybrid between C. Leopold!
and C, Dowiana, the former parentage predominating. The sepals and petals
are narrow, of a purplish crimson hue, the lip being fringed and rich purple in
colour.

Boicvardia Alfred NewiRr (Bull). — The double American Bouvardia which
has been repeatedly described in these pages. Some of the umbels on the
plant shown had over a dozen flowers of neat form.

Adiantum ancitense (Bull). — One of the pedate section of ]Maidenhair Ferns,
the pinnules being oblong in shape and very closely placed, forming a neat
frond of moderate size.

Adhiiojderis australis (Bull). — A pretty but well-known little Fern with
neat palmately divided fronds, the divisions being linear in form.

Gladiolus Vdargo (Kelway). — A handsome variety. Flowers large, of a rich
scarlet colour, with a few darker streaks. The blooms are very closely placed
in the sj^ike, which is massive and imposing in appearance.

Asplenium xttcrioides. — Mr C. Green, The Gardens, Pendell Court, Bletch-
ingley, was accorded a first-class certificate for a Fern under the above
name. It is a native of Lord Howe's Island, and has pinnate dark-green
fronds, the pinnte having narrow tooth-like segments closely set on the stalks.
In general outline the frond is acutely elliptical, 8 to 12 inches long, the
pinnae 1 to 4 inches long.

C er eus pect'matus {Crowoher). — A species with peculiar barrel-shaped stems,
covered with reddish spines, form quite a close network on the surface.

Cereus gigantcus (Croucher). — A strongly ribbed form with greyish or blush
spines, much larger than the last.

EchinocactnsWistizenii (Croucher). — Also strongly ribbed. The spines very
strong and long, curved at the extremity. A few white filaments are dibtri-
buted amongst the spines.

Abies canadensis varicgata (Waterer). — A variegated form of the Canadian
Abies, the young shoots being very prettily marked with white.

Malva moschata alba. — Messrs H. Cannell & Sons were awarded a first-class
certificate for this plant, which is a beautiful variety of Mallow with pure
white flowers. These are produced in great abundance, and the plant being
quite hardy, it is a really valuable addition to the list of border plants. No
doubt the flowers would prove very useful for cutting. — Journal of Horticulture.

THE WEATHER TN THE SOUTH-WEST OF SCOTLAISrD.

This has been one of the coldest, most sunless, and damp summers
on record. Excepting about ten days in the latter part of May, there
has, up till the time we write, not been anything like a summer day.
The night temperature in July was often at 40°, and on the morning
of the 3d of August, there was ice as thick as a sixpenny-piece found
on the glass of cold frames between six and seven o'clock a.m.

D. T. D.

i88i.]

CALENDAR.

431

CtaUntran

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines.— Attention must this month
be more particularly directed towards
laying a good foundation for a supply
of strong young plants for next season.
Suckers yielded by early Queens, and
that were potted some time ago, will
now be well rooted and growing. If,
to economise space, they were plunged
thickly at first, they should now have
more room to prevent their drawing.
They can now be more freely aired,
and should never be allowed to get
very dry. Avoid syringing them
much overhead ; but on fine af cernoons
shut them up with a moist atmo-
sphere. The night - heat for these
should range from 65° to 70", accord-
ing to the state of the weather, and
the bottom-heat should not exceed 85°.
Another batch of suckers can now be
procured from plants ripening their
fruit, or from which fruit has recently
been cut. Suckers of Smooth Cayennes
and Charlotte Kothschilds, that are
very strong, may be potted into 8-
inch j»ots ; but Queens will do best in
6-inch pots. Plunge them in a bot-
tom-heat of 90°; shade them slightly
from the sun for a time, and keep
the atmosphere moist by frequently
sprinkling paths and walls, and dew
the plants lightly overhead on the
afternoons of warm days. Smooth
Cayennes, and other sorts most suit-
able for an autumn supply of ripe
fruit, will now be swelling rapidly,
and should be nourished with ordinary
manure- water, alternately with guano
and soot water. See that they have a
bottom-heat of about 90°, a moist atmo-
sphere, and a night temperature at
10 P.M. of 75°, allowing it to fall to
70° by 6 A.M. Syringe about the axils
of the leaves every bright afternoon
when the house is closed, and let the
heat rise for a time to 85° or 90° with
sun-heat. Do not syringe much over
the crowns, for if water stands in the
crowns they grow too large and become
unsightly. Any late Qaeens or other
sorts that are ripening now should
have a circulation of dry warm air
about them, and be exposed to full
sun, so that they may ripen a bright
colour and be of fine flavour. If any
strong suckers are clustering about
any of the fruits, either remove them
or tie them back off the fruit, so that

they may ripen and colour equally all
round. To retard or keep any ripe
fruits not required for immediate use,
remove them to some cool vinery or
fruit-room as directed in former Cal-
endars. The stock of Queens required
to start into fruit at the beginning of
'82 will now require careful treat-
ment. Should the weather be dull
and sunless, apply water to these very
sj^aringly. Air them freely on fine
warm days, and by the end of the
month the night tem])erature should
not exceed 65°, so that they may
gradually be brought to a state of rest
by autumn. Plants intended to start
in succession — about March or April
— should still be encouraged to grow
freely. All syringing of plants in this
stage should be discontinued after the
middle of the month.

Grapes. — Late Grapes that are
colouring this month in localities
where the rainfall may be small,
should not be allowed to suffer for
want of water; for, as the colouring
process goes on, the fruit increases
much in size, and a great demand is
made on the Yines. If old Vines, and
the border be at all dry, give them a
thorough soaking, and if with weak
manure-water, all the better. Assist
them in the colouring and ripening
process with a well-balanced amount
of fire-heat, according to the state of
the weather. The air should be kept
continually in motion, by having the
house constantly open more or less
at top and bottom; and whenever the
weather is sunless or cold, keep the
pipes always warm. Unless Grapes
are thoroughly ripened by the end of
this month, they do not keep well,
and are never well flavoured. Ex-
amine the foliage minutely, and see
that red-spider does not get a footing;
for in autumn, when fire-heat is neces-
sary, and less moisture is applied, the
pp-st thrives and injures the foliage.
The best way to deal with it now is
to syringe it off the leaves whenever
it is detected. The inside borders of
houses where Grapes are to haug late
should now be watered if dry, and
then be covered over either with clean
straw or dry mushroom-bed manure,
to prevent them drying quickly again,
and to keep the air dry. Look over

432

THE GARDENER.

[Sept.

the Vines, and remove all lateral
growths, if any have been allowed
during the process of stoning, and up
to the colouring period. It is now
desirable that a free play of air
should be allowed about every leaf
and bunch. Look over ripe Grapes
weekly, and remove any shrivelled
or decaying berries, and keep the
house cool and dry. If wasps or Hies
attack the Grapes, lose no time in
])utting hexagon netting over the
ventilating openings. As we have
often directed, let the borders of all
Vines from which the fruit has just
been cut be examined, and if the roots
are not found near the surface, remove
the old inert soil down to the roots,
and replace it with fresh loam, bone-
meal, and manure, so that while the
foliage is yet healthy on the Vines, the
roots may bite upwards. As this has
in some districts been a cold and
wet summer, it may be necessary
to apply fire - heat after the crop
is all cut, in order to thoroughly ripen
the wood, without which all other
points are useless. Pot - Vines in-
tended to be started in December
should be shortened back to the length
desired, and be placed in some cool
airy position. See that they do not
at any time suffer from becoming over-
dry at the root. Young vigorous-
growing Vines that were planted last
and this year should be fired until the
wood is hard and brown. If the
lateral growths of these are at all
crowded, shorten them back to let
light and air play about all their
parts, but do not remove much foliage
suddenly. Now is a good time to get
and stack loam, that may be required
for new borders for another season.

Peaches. — Trees from which the
crop has just been gathered, if grow-
ing strongly, should have a circulation
of warm air about them ; and should
the weaclier prove sunless, let artificial
heat be applied to this end. If there
be any signs of red-spider about them,
give them a few vigorous washings
with water, in which a handful of
flower of sulphur is mixed. Remove
any superfluous shoots that may have
been tied in, so that air and light can
act on all parts of the trees. Late
crops in cool houses will now be ripen-
ing, and will require to be examined
every day, and all ripe fruit carefully
gathered. If this be neglected, the
fruit are apt to fall off and get bruised.

Protect them from flies and wasps ;
and any leaves that may be shading
the fruit should be pushed aside, so
that it may be properly coloured by
exposure to light. See that the bor-
ders do not become over-dry if they are
inside.

Figs.— Let trees swelling off crops
be encouraged by waterings of man-
ure-water. Give plenty of air to those
ri))ening, and syringe trees from which
all the Figs are gathered, to keep the
foliage clean and healthy. Plants in
pots from which the second crop
is all gathered may be placed in a
sheltered warm spot outdoors; but
see that they are never allowed to
suffer for want of water.

Melons. — Keep fruit that have got
to the ripening stage well exposed to
sun and air, and rather drier at the
root, but not to such an extent as will
cause the plants to suffer before the
fruit are ripe. Keep the night tem-
perature at 70°. Plants swelling off
crops may be watered with manure-
water; but be careful not to over-
water at this season when the fruit
are full -sized, or they may burst.
The best way is to mulch the surface
of the soil, to prevent its drying so
often. Fire-heat at night will now be
necessary for Melons in all stages, to
prevent the temperature from sinking
below 70°.

Cucumbers. — Plants raised from
seed or cuttings last month for winter
fruiting should be planted out this
month. A rather moderately light
soil, and not too much of it, is best
for winter Cucumbers. Expose them
to as much light and air as possible,
in order to produce robust plants
that will stand the trying ordeal of
dull damp weather by-and-by. Plants
now in full bearing should be watered
with liquid manure. Keep the heat
from 70° to 75°, according to the
weather. If the temperature is al-
lowed to fall too low at this season,
mildew is apt to be troublesome, and
all symptoms of it should be checked
by dusting the affected parts with
sulphur.

Strawberries in Pots.— If former
directions have been carried out, these'
will have well filled their pots with
roots ; and should the weather be
bright and dry, give them manure-
water three times weekly. Keep
them free of runners and weeds, and
see that they do not get crowded.

i88i.]

CALENDAR.

433

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Where there are means to keep gar-
gens in good order, one expects at
this season to meet with neatness and
cleanliness in every department. All
refuse of crops which have served their
purpose may be cleared oflF, and the
space prepared and cropped with
Spinach, Lettuce, Cole worts, Endive,
or whatever may be wanted during
the winter months. Should there be
no demand for these, it is well not to
waste labour and raise produce to be
thrown away. The ground mav be
deeply trenched, if subsoil will allow ;
and when sunk to its ordinary level,
the surface may then be ridged to the
action of the weather, which does a
deal to purif}^ the ground. But close
cropping with little vacant space dur-
ing the winter is pleasing and protit-
able alike. Cabbage for main crop
may be pricked out till they are strong
and fit to transplant : when thus
treated they are more likely to com-
bat with a severe winter. The ground
we prefer for Cabbage is where the
Onion crop has been cleared and stored.
Some loose material, such as what the
rubbish-heap contains, may be turned
into the bottom of trenches to give free
drainage during the winter. A quan-
tity of good manure may be put under
the top spit, and drills drawn for the
Cabbage plants, which may be ready
towards end of the month. Then
plant; and around each collar dust
with soot mixed with ashes and saw-
dust. The plants should not be al-
lowed to become stunted, otherwise
premature seeding may be expected.
Plant double thickness, so that plenty
of greens may be had by cutting out
every alternate plant. Soil can hardly
be too rich to grow this crop well.

Cauliflower may be sown from the
end of August till October, accord-
ing to locality and means of pro-
tecting and growing them. When
they are early and gross, they are
liable to be injured by severe weather.
They may be pricked out, when ready,
on a sheltered border, and glass, if such
can be spared, placed over them when
frost is likely to be severe. Coddling,
of course, means killing the plants.
The earlier ones may be placed under
the protection of hand-lights which
will admit air and light freely. Two
or three successions of young Cauli-

flower are very desirable, especially
when one remembers the severity of
the last and two previous winters.

Celery should be earthed up well to
blanch it for earlier crops. A good
soaking of manure - water first will
cause a tender succulent growth, which
is very desirable — and a nutty flavour
accompanies tenderness. Stringy,
coarse Celery we consider most in-
digestible, and is often the result of
starving the plants on poor soil, or
of intense drought. Sow Salads,
such as Golden Cress, American Cress,
j Mustard and Curled Cress: the latter
two may be under glass protection now.
j Lettuce and Endive of sorts plant on
j sheltered borders well dug. Sow
Corn Salad and Radishes. Allow
no crops to become matted before
they are thinned. Sow Carrots of
the Horn class for drawing young.
Sow more Onions for spring and for
drawing young. Tripoli, White Lis-
bon, and Giant Rocco are of much
value in autumn where large mild
Onions are in demand. Leeks which
were planted in ridges like Celery may
now be earthed up, and well watered
with liquid manure. Peas to supply
late pickings may be molested with
sparrows : netting or other means may
be necessary for protection. Dwarf
Peas on a sheltered border are often
useful in autumn, and can be protected
from early frosts hj hoops and mats.
A full crop of Spinach sown now on
deeply-dug ground, with a good dusting
of soot and ashes thrown over the sur-
face of the soil, may be a profitable
and exceedingly useful crop during
spring, succeeding the August sowings
when they have been severely picked
and tried by frost. Parsley should be
trimmed of all rough leaves prepara-
tory for winter. Rank growth, which
often rots the j'ounger leaves, is sure to
be destroyed. A quantity of Pars-
ley should also be in a sheltered posi-
tion, where temporarj^ protection may
be given during a period of snowy
weather. Store Herbs by first drying
them in the shade, and hanging up
afterwards in dry and airy quarters.
Lift Potatoes as soon as they are fit :
by leaving them in the ground they
are liable to disease. In some local-
ities, such as our own, it is better to
sell the crop for immediate use, and

434 THE GARDENER. [Sept. i8i

buy others later from parts where from four to six to each bunch
disease is little experienced. The matted growth ruins the crop. Put

main crop of Onions may be well for-
ward and can be lifted, dried, and
stored : an open shed, thoroughly
dry, we have found to be the best
store for Onions. Frost will not hurt

in cuttings for winter work. Ridge
Cucumbers, Gherkins, and Vegetable
Marrows may be kept long in bearing
by using protection at night : frost
puts an end to these tender things.

the bulbs if they are thoroughly dry. French Beans are also a crop easily
Beware of allowing the Onion crop to ■ injured. Sowings in pits may be
remain in the ground after it is ready made to give a late autumn supply,
for pulling : second growth might take j and successions kept up by sowing
place, then good keeping would be every two or three weeks. Mushroom-
unknown. Turnips — thin, clean, and beds may be made as formerly advised,
hoe, and get useful tubers before the i Small beds made often are the most
growing period is at an end. Toma- certain method of keeping regular sup-
toes should now be gone over often, i plies. Potatoes may now be started
and disbudded, thinning the fruit to I for early winter supplies. M. T.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in the ' Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We
decline noticing any communication which is not acsompanied with name and
address of writer.

J. A. — In the case of your early vinery, fork into the surface of the border
a good dressing of bone-meal, and then apply about 3 inches of farmyard man-
ure. This should be applied at once. About the middle of October add a
covering of 6 or 8 inches of dry litter — Fern or straw^ — and the tarpaulin.
The later Vine-borders you can top-dress with bone-meal and manure in No-
vember or December ; and if your Vines are in need of more feeding, remove the
winter dressing when the Grapes are set or thinned and apply a fresh one.

A Learner. — Transplant your Gooseberry and Currant bushes immediately
they drop their leaves. A paper in our present issue supplies the other infor-
mation you ask for.

A. M. S. — We suspect the evil is caused by an escape of sulphureous gas from
the furnace in some way or other. See if there are any openings round the hot-
water pipes where they pass from the boiler into the house, and if there are,
stop them.

L. Y. — You should have put Gros Colmar Vine in your Muscat-house, and
the Duke at the warm end of your Hamburg-house. At the setting period
the former requires quite a Muscat heat to do it really well, and the latter a
little more warmth than is necessary for Black Hamburgs.

W. C. N. — The dropping of leaves is very common this year. Green-fly
earlv in the season and the cold wet summer have caused it.

THE

GARDENER.

OCTOBER i88i.

NOTES.

HE greatest earthquake of our time is beginning to be felt
amongst us, and the wisest can only conjecture where
and how it will all end. I am writing this in a quiet
English village, and without a thought of Ireland (beyond
a love for her) or of her land agitation. In a village known
from my boyhood, and formerly one of peace and prosperity, there is
scarcely a home that has not suffered more or less from what is called
agricultural depression, and perhaps the landlord has suffered in mind
and pocket most of all. In former times it was the home of thrifty
cottars, every man with his few acres of land — a village commune —
every man a neighbour and a friend. Then came good seasons
when farmers prospered ; land-hunger grew — the landlord turned the
cottars adrift, and threw their well -cared -for little acres into big
farms. In this way much of our dear Old England was robbed of her
beauty. Farmers and landlords vied in getting rich too quickly. The
old shady hedges of milk-white thorn, thickly enamelled in spring with
crab and sloe blossom, and in autumn with wild fruits for the birds,
were ruthlessly swept away. What cared money-grubbers, if farmers
or landlords, whether a blackbird got its breakfast of haws on a bitter
frosty winter's morning, or whether the dappled song- thrush had
shelter for its nest and young ones in the spring ! Had it not been
for fox-hunting, every hedge would have been replaced by wire-fencing,
and pastoral England's beauty sacrificed to mammon like a soft-going
bride to a lover of old iron. Prosperity for the landlord and for the
large farms, however, was only for a time, and all around for miles
land is unlet, or is farmed by the landlord himself. Everywhere here
in Leicestershire one hears of farmers ruined, after having clung on to

2 F

436 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

the old home and the dearly loved well-known fields to the last in
hopes of better times, which for them never came. Large capitalists
will not now embark in farming ventures, as was formerly the case.
Whatever charges may be brought against the landlord, one is the
destruction of the small tenant-farmer and grazier in England. This
destruction is a great national loss bitterly felt now, but unless it be
repaired it will be still more severely felt in time to come. By driving
the small cottars from the English villages, the national interest in
earth-culture was weakened. Sons and daughters of cottar-tenants,
instead of following the avocations of land-culture to which they were
born, were obliged to turn to other avocations. Fortunately for them
the expansibility of English manufactures made it easy for them to
follow in other grooves ; and now that bad seasons and foreign competi-
tion has lowered the value of farm-produce, and so of the producing
agent land itself, there is no one to bear the burden but comparatively
large farmers and the landlord. Large tenant-farm.ers do not, as a rale,
cling on to the " old home " and the dear old village. They simply
made a business of farming, and do not wait for ruin to overtake them.
In many cases they promptly realised their capital ere the depression
materially affected them, and left the landlord to do the best he could
with his land. Now that the depression is more forcibly felt, the land
is resigned to its owners still more freely, and if perchance a farm is
let, it is only possible at a large reduction of rent.

Some may say this is not a question for th=e ' Gardener ; ' but of all
men gardeners are, or should be, most interested in land and its value.
The modern idea of a garden with many is to make it pay. The thing
in times past was not usual ; but at present those who depend on rents
cannot afford to spend so much on gardening as a luxury as was for-
merly the case. Owners of gardens have a perfect right to sell garden-
produce, just as they have to sell shorthorns from the home farm or
yearlings from the paddock. A time is coming when skilful cultural
knowledge on the part of a gardener must be supplemented by ability
to sell his produce, or a portion of it, in the best market; and that man
who can do both the one and the other best will be considered the
best gardener. All this may lead to a good end ; for if gardens can be
made profitable as well as interesting or beautiful, so much the better
for all gardeners.

Every now and then we hear how lovely a water-plant is Aponogeton
distachyon, with its fragrant forked spikes of white bracts and haw-
thorn-like perfume. If imported tubers be now obtained — or well-rested
ones of home growth be now planted in pans or tubs of good sound
loam, this to be first surfaced with an inch of sand, and afterwards
with three or four inches of water — they will soon commence growth
in a greenhouse temperature, and will flower freely from Christmas
until April or May following. I find it does best in rather a shady

i8Si.] NOTES. 437

position ; and its ivory bracts are very useful for cutting during
tlie winter months, apart from the interest of the growing plants
themselves.

We grow a batch of Aponogeton tubers every year in this way, and
find they give a very welcome supply of fragrant spikes. In May we
empty off the water, and set the pans and tubs in the sun all summer.
In this way they are thoroughly rested, and when planted in October
start at once into growth, a crop of fresh green young leaves and
numerous spikes being the result.

I often wonder why one of the finest of all the Vandas — V. teres —
is not more often seen in bloom in orchid-growing establishments.
For some time I thought that culture had something to do with its
blooming, but now I know that this is by no means the whole truth
of the matter. Leaving out of the question the pure- white variety —
as rare as a white elephant, only far more beautiful — there are three
other distinctly different varieties of what we know in gardens as
Vanda teres. First and best, V. teres Andersoni, with stout growths
and large richly-tinted blooms, a free-blooming plant. Then we have
a plant similar in habit, but the flowers are not better in size or colour
than the ordinary thin-habited and proverbially shy-flowering Vanda
teres. Its advantages are a more robust and vigorous habit of growth,
and it has no objection to flower once every year, usually bearing from
five to seven flowers on a spike. I now grow this form, and find it
most satisfactory, blooming every year without any of that special
treatment of " drying off"" which is so often recommended as a panacea
of non-flowering for the old thin-growing Vanda teres.

When I was in Singapore I found Vanda teres was brought down
from Burmah in trading vessels and sold to the residents as a popular
hardy flower for their gardens. I need scarcely say that Singapore
possesses a tropical climate — a mean of 82°, I believe — so that all our
Crotons and Dracsenas and other stove shrubs from both hemispheres
grow there in the open borders and beds just like Phloxes and Del-
phiniums here in England. I was in the Botanical Gardens out at
Tanglin one day, and saw in the distance a mass of flowers dancing in
the hot wind. Seeing numerous stakes to the plants, and their lilac
flowers, they reminded me of a mass of Sweet Peas in a sheltered
home garden. "What is the pretty mass of lilac yonder T' I asked.
"Oh," replied the curator, "that is Vanda teres !" Planted out in the
ordinary red loam of the island, it grew up the stout stakes, adhering
by its numerous aerial roots as Sweet Peas or Vines cling by their
tendrils : there it was in glorious flower, masses of it seven feet in
height, and wide in proportion — a sight to delight any one who only
previously knew of Vanda teres as cramped in a pot, scorching and
starved under a glaring roof of glass.

438 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

Of other things which suggested themselves to my mind as I saw
Orchids of this and many other kinds growing in trees in Eastern
gardens, and on trees in the forest- wilds, nothing w^as so fully im-
pressed as the great fact that nature everywhere gives air in abundance,
and always at night a comi)aratively cool and moist, if not actually
wet, climate. Tropical Orchids often experience the rudest of winds
and the pelting of the heaviest of rains. At night especially, heavy
rains are most usual — if not heavy rain, copious dews are ever the rule.
So heavy are these dews, that one is drenched to the skin in ten
minutes if you venture into the jungle in the early morning — every
leaf, every grass blade, being laden with big drops of condensed mois-
ture. Hence it is that abundance of fresh air and a moisture-laden
atmosphere (especially at night, or during seasons when dry fire-heat
must especially be employed) are of all things the most essential to
the permanent wellbeing of Orchids and all other tropical plants.
The great fact of most tropical rain falling after sunset has not yet
been fully felt and appreciated by cultivators, Coolness and moisture
at night is nature's great law, and those cultivators who neglect to
obey it will have an uphill fight to the last.

Of the new race of summer-blooming Chrysanthemums too much
cannot be said. They are easily propagated either by cuttings or
division in the spring. Once well planted, they will grow throughout
the summer with as little care and attention as a Phlox or a Michael-
mas Daisy ; and then we are quite certain of their affording a fine dis-
play of bright-coloured flowers from the end of July until the frost
cuts them off in November or December. In pots they are as useful
as the late-blooming kinds for conservatory decoration indoors. As
border flowers, however, they are most effective. The varieties we
have now in bloom are Golden Madame Domage (yellow), White Queen
and St Mary (white). Scarlet Gem (bright red), Madame Pecaul (purple).
Illustration, and several others unnamed. As is also the case with
the late-blooming section, we find that young plants propagated in
late autumn, or early in the year from cuttings, are the best. In May
last Mr Robertson Munro sent us a dozen sorts — rooted cuttings ;
these planted at once in a deep rich border are now in fine flower,
and are admired by all our visitors, to most of whom they are quite a
novelty.

To those who are anxious to cultivate Lilies, or indeed most other
bulbous-rooted plants, this season of the year is of especial interest.
October is perhaps, of all months of the year, the one most suitable for
planting Lilies and other bulbs. Our own best results in Lily culture
have been obtained by planting and repotting all Lily bulbs this month.
Just as the leaves turn yellow all Lilies may be most safely removed,
as their young roots have then scarcely protruded into the earth, and

i88i.] NOTES. 439

are ready to do so as soon as fresh compost is added to them. Of
Lilies not generally met with even in good gardens there are one
or two worthy of especial note. L. Browni is especially beautiful with
its purple-backed tube and silvery-white lining. L. martagon (Dal-
maticum) catani — a purple-black- flowered Martagon with a stem
seven feet in height, and bearing a spire of twenty to thirty turn-
cap flowers — is, when well established, one of the finest of all good
Lilies.

Of all annuals, the biggest and brightest, the largest-flowered and
the stateliest, the tallest and the most easily grown, is the Common
Sunflower and its numerous varieties. Just now, too, it is most fashion-
able. Whether 'tis its grace of slender stem, or its rich Daff'odil-like
yellowness of hue, which has most contributed to this, I know not.
What I do know is, that the Oscar Wilds and Mrs Cimabue Brownes
of society have made an especial protege of it, and artistic people gen-
erally are now mad after its big blossoms, which they are busily try-
ing to represent in all sorts of material, plastic and textile. They are
now at this moment, and long have been, a great feature in our dear
old garden. They tower aloft over Phloxes and Bell-flowers, but not
above the tops of 14-feet-high old grey walls, which aff'ord a pleasing
background for the massive leaves and gold-fringed discs as they
glisten and wave in the autumnal sunshine. Formerly a common
flower beside honeysuckled cottage-windows, it is now rarely seen in
even the best of gardens. Birket Foster often represents it along
with happy groups of ruddy-cheeked children; and now we look to the
Frank Miles and Alfred Parsons of our time to show on canvas the
glory of the great gold-rayed Sunflower, as now so lovely in our
gardens.

Now is a good time to insert cuttings of Pentstemons, Pansies, Veroni-
cas, Phloxes, and other half-hardy flowers for next spring and summer
blooming. Seeds of many good strains of Canterbury Bells, Sweet-
Williams, Delphiniums, &c., will also now be ripe, and should be
gathered, and either sown at once in boxes in a cold frame, or pre-
served in packets until next spring.

Of choice bulbs for present planting, there are one or two of especial
interest, perfectly hardy at Dublin, and worth making note of. Amaryl-
lis formosissima does well planted on a rubble bottom near a south
or south-east wall. Hyacinthus candicans planted deeply in very
light soil (leaf-mould and sand is best) grows well, and afl'ords fine
spikes. Tiger-flowers are gorgeous, although now seldom seen. We
find they succeed much better treated as hardy bulbs by planting
in October, than when planted in spring after being stored in a shed
all the winter. They, like Belladonna Lilies and the Jacobean Lily

440 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

(a formosissima) before mentioned, should be deeply planted on a
well-drained border, close to a warm plant-house wall with a sunny-
exposure.

Next April and May hundreds of people will be delighted with
the lovely flowers of the blue Siberian Squill (Scilla siberica), the
golden chalices of the Hooped Petticoat Narcissus (Narcissus bulbo-
codium), or the vivid blue white-eyed flowers of the " Snow Glory "
(Chionodoxa lucillias). Then the exclamation is, "Oh, how lovely ! I
wish you would tell us how we may grow these in our own garden ! "
The right way is to obtain bulbs at this season, and to plant them
carefully in light sandy earth, placing a little silver sand around the
bulbs, and burying them 4 to 6 inches below ground-level. A coafmg
of leaf-mould preserves them from frost, and enriches the earth like-
wise. All the above are now to be purchased at a moderate price by the
dozen, or hundred. The Chionodoxa last season fetched 5s. per bulb,
and is now offered at 20s. to 30s. per 100. Narcissus bulbocodium, one
of the best of bulbs for flowering in pots in a cold frame, is offered at
15s. per 100, and the Siberian Squill at 5s. to 7s. 6d. per 100. All are
fine for pots, but any attempt to force them early is fatal to their
beauty.

FORCING LILY OF THE VALLEY.

The plants that produced flowers about Christmas or the New Year, if
aided by light and heat until growth was completed, as previously
directed from time to time in the ' Gardener,' will now have plump
buds or crowns. The foliage would be fast fading, if not entirely gone,
during the month of August ; and this is necessary to obtain success
with this much appreciated flower if wanted early. Where the plants
have been properly matured, and brought to rest under a judicious
system of cultivation, they will be ready for forcing, and cannot fail to
give satisfaction. Home-grown plants are preferable to those obtained
from the Continent for very early work. I have produced flowers with
ease about the 3d of November during the past few years, and this
cannot be done with purchased single crowns. It is generally believed
that Continental single crowns are the best for early forcing, but this
is a great mistake. It is unreasonable to suppose they can com-
pete with plants grown and prepared for the purpose. For flowers
about Christmas and onwards, single crowns are invaluable ; and in the
majority of cases they produce very fine sprays of flower. Clumps,
when sent over, not unf requently have a quantity of foliage attached —
I have never seen foliage adhering to the single crowns — sufficient to
convince the practical cultivator that they are in any but a satisfactory
state to be forced at once. The plants require a rest ; and without a
fair season of repose, Lily of the Valley will not force, — they will not

i88i.] FORCING LILY OF THE VALLEY. 441

even start when placed in heat as soon as they arrive, but remain dor-
mant for months before flowering. It is very well to recommend a
bottom-heat of 100° to start them, but in spite of such unnatural
driving they will not start until they have rested. Home-grown
plants, if ripened early, will not need such a high temperature
by 20°, and will quickly spring into flower. Last year my plants
forced with greater ease than during any previous year, and with less
heat, and this through being earlier ripened than in previous years. If
it is difficult to give the plants a steady and regular bottom-heat by
means of hot-water pipes, a bed should be made of leaves and litter,
and the plants plunged into it when the rank steam has subsided.
Regularity in maintaining a certain degree of bottom-heat is a decided
advantage ; and a more uniform temperature can be kept with hot-water
pipes than with the other system, and the risk considerably less.
When fermenting material is used, some care is necessary in case the
bed gets too hot, and the crowns are injured in consequence. Under
whatever system bottom-heat is obtained, the plants should, if con-
venient, be plunged in old tan or cocoa-nut fibre, and the crowns
buried an inch or two beneath the plunging material. They force
better and commence growing earlier when the crowns are excluded
from light. Why this should be the case, I cannot tell, for, when grow-
ing outside, the crowns generally are nestling on the surface. When
the flower -sprays appear through the material in which they are
plunged, a flower-pot should be turned over them, with the hole in the
bottom stopped for a time at first. This assists materially in drawing
them well up. When forced in a close frame this assistance is not
necessary.

LILIUM LONGIFLORUM.

This Lily can be purchased very cheap as compared with the
price of a great many others, and yet it is not cultivated in private
gardens half so much as it ought to be. However beautiful many
other Liliums may be, none are easier to cultivate, and few that can
surpass this one for purity and usefulness. Considering all its quali-
ties, it is a Lily that should be grown in every garden, and those
who have never grown Liliums will not fail in cultivating this one.
I have never had a bulb yet that failed to produce from three to
five of its large trumpet-shaped flowers, which are pure white and
highly fragrant. If placed in a pot it will do well either in heat or in
a cold frame, or planted in the borders outside. For the latter purpose
it is a grand plant, but is of the greatest service when cultivated in
pots. One great feature in this Lily is its dwarf habit. It does not
exceed 18 inches in height, unless drawn up in strong heat, and a great
distance from the glass, and even then it is not inclined to grow much
taller. When under cool treatment it seldom attains that height. It
can be grown in 4-inch pots, which are suflaciently large to develop
its highest qualities. For room decoration it is useful, and for cutting

442 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

for vase work, — in fact it is suitable for all kinds of decoration. In the
early season when Azaleas are nearly past, and Hyacinths and many
other bulbous plants have done flowering, this Lily can be had in flower,
and for the conservatory is invaluable. To have it in flower early in
the season, the bulbs should be obtained as soon as possible, and placed
in pots, either singly in the size mentioned, or three in 6-inch pots, or
six in 8-inch pots. When principally wanted for the embellishment of
the conservatory, it is wise to grow a few in both sizes. As regards
soil, this Lily does not appear very particular. It flourishes well in
loam and a seventh of manure with plenty of coarse sand ; or loam and
peat will grow it equally well. In potting, the pots should be well-
drained, and a little sand placed under each bulb, and covered with at
least half an inch of soil. After potting, if the soil is in proper condi-
tion, little or no water will be needed until the roots commence work-
ing. At the same time, the soil must not become dust-dry if wanted
to grow. The pots containing the bulbs can either be placed in a
vinery starting, or in a peach-house, or, if not wanted early, placed in
a cool house. If required earlier than these positions will bring them
on, the pots can be plunged in gentle bottom-heat, keeping the tops
much cooler in proportion, until a good quantity of roots are formed.
When the stem appears through the soil, more water can with advantage
be given, and the temperature kept at about 55°, to be raised another
5° when the plants are about 9 inches high. Bottom-heat should then
be dispensed with, or the plants will develop weakly. In the last-
named temperature the plants will grow rapidly enough, and the pots
soon be full of roots, when weak manure-water may be given every
time they require water. When the flower-buds can be seen, the plants,
if desired, will stand a higher temperature than — but they develop
rapidly in — 60°. When grown in that temperature, they should have a
position close to the glass, where they can enjoy plenty of light. If a
batch is grown on rapidly until the flowers are observed, it is sur-
prising what a time they can be kept back afterwards by proper
management. The plants must not be syringed after the flowers open,
or the yellow pollen is liable to spoil the inside of the flower. For
some time after flowering, manure-water should be given to assist
in developing the bulbs as they mature.

While growing they are subject to green-fly in the end of the shoot,
which is readily destroyed, either by fumigating the plants or by dust-
ing them with tobacco-powder. William Bardney.

FRUIT- CULTURE.

THE PEAR.

Almost everything that we have said in regard to the preparing of the
soil, planting, lifting, root-pruning, shoot-pruning, pinching, and train-
ing of Apple-trees applies to Pear-trees, so we need not repeat our

i88i.] FRUIT-CULTURE. 443

directions for these operations. Still, the cultivation of the latter
differs in some particulars from that of the former, and we proceed to
notice these.

The first thing that deserves attention is, that Pear-trees grow more
vigorously, attain a larger size, are longer lived, and do not natur-
ally bear fruit freely at so early an age as Apple-trees. The Pear is
not so generally useful as the Apple — hence, in stocking small gardens,
Apple-trees should preponderate : nor are there so many really good
varieties that are hardy enough to bear fruit freely in any part of our
country — hence many gardens may produce a good supply of Apples,
in variety for the table and the kitchen all through the autumn and
winter, which would fail to produce anything like a supply of Pears.
In utility, then, the Apple takes a place before the Pear ; but when
good Pears can be produced in tolerable abundance, they are always
put before Apples as a dessert fruit, so much so that Pears rank as the
first of our hardy fruits, while Apples are voted common. Not many
of the class to which we address ourselves will care very much whether
the Apple or the Pear ranks first in the dessert, if they find that crops
ot good Apples can be produced easier, where inferior crops of Pears
can only be produced with difficulty, and this no matter whether the
produce is intended for market or the grower's table. On the other
hand, when fine Pears can be produced in equal quantities with Apples,
and as easily, or nearly so, the planter who plants for his own table's
supply will plant a fair proportion of Pear as well as Apple trees ; and
the grower for market will plant Pear-trees more freely, for good Pears
fetch much higher prices than Apples. Whether, then, to plant Pear-
trees in quantities, or not at all, should depend on whether the climate
is suitable or not, and this the cultivator must find out for himself.

Soil. — A heavy deep loam suits the Pear best ; but hardy kinds will
grow and flourish in any soil, from stiff clay to light sand. In Scotland
the Carse of Gowrie is famed for its Pears, and there the soil and sub-
soil are of the heaviest description. In Strathmore, and in Fife and
Stirlingshire, Pears are to be found growing well and fruiting pro-
digiously on the heaviest clay and on the lightest sand. Splendid
Pears are produced in the valley of the Thames, and there the soil is
mostly of a very heavy description. Still, the best Pears are invariably
I^roduced on a good medium loam, with a dry subsoil. The best Pear-
orchards that we are acquainted with in Scotland are on a soil com-
posed of degraded trap of an unknown depth. The soil at Newburgh-
on-Tay is of this description ; and there Pears are produced of better
quality and larger size than are produced either on the heavy soil of
the Carse of Gowrie, a few miles distant in one direction, or on the
sandy soils of Stratheden, a few miles in the other. The simple reason
is that, in the one instance, the staple is so deep that the roots, go
down as they may, are never out of it ; while, in the other two cases,
the roots soon get into pure clay in the one case, and into a pure sand

444 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

in the other. The lessons here taught by nature are very simple.
They are — first, a deep well-drained soil ; and second, means taken to
keep the roots in it, instead of allowing them to go into the subsoil,
as they are very apt to do; for Pears on the free stock are very apt to
form tap-roots which go straight downwards. If the subsoil is good,
large crops of not bad fruit may be expected in time from hardy
kinds ; but keeping the roots up to the surface improves even hardy
kinds past recognition almost, as we have repeatedly seen demonstrated ;
while for fine kinds it becomes an absolute necessity, especially in an
unfavourable climate. We have seen fine kinds which produced only
small useless fruit while the roots were deep in the cold subsoil, pro-
duce, after the roots were carefully lifted and laid in near the surface,
fruit of the very best description.

The amateur cultivator will understand from this that we wish to
make a strong point of looking after and training the roots in their
proper places, just as much or even more than carefully jjruning and
training the shoots ; and will also understand that it is a good plan to
begin this at the very first. When young orchard-trees are planted
with this object in view, and at intervals of a year or two carefully
examined and put right in this respect, and then trained in the way
they should go while young, there is good reason for saying that in
their old age they will not depart from it.

Of course the above remarks apply principally to orchard and other
trees which are to be allowed to grow their full size ; but such trees
are by no means suitable for small plots of ground — they are for
orchardists who want quantities of fruit for sale, and who have a suf-
ficient amount of land to devote to the purpose. For ordinary gardens
we decidedly prefer medium-sized trees, and these, to keep them as
they should be, require regular attention in the way of lifting and
pruning the roots, as described for Apples. For good loamy soils
such trees are best when grafted on the Quince stock, for it natur-
ally spreads its roots near the surface, and promotes a shorter,
dwarf er, but more fruitful grow^th than the free stock. At the same
time, it needs to be regulated by root-pruning too, especially in rich
garden soils. Indeed, Pear-trees on the Quince should be treated just
in the same way as Apples on the Paradise stock.

But for light poor soils the Quince is not good, even for small trees
— at least that is our experience. Trees on the free stock are sure to
do better, and dwarfness and fruitfulness are easily induced by root-
pruning. When Pears on the Quince stock are planted on poor, sandy,
or gravelly soils, they, sometimes at least, get stunted, even wdth careful
feeding; and as root-pruning, when it is necessary, produces all the
good results ever claimed for the Quince, we certainly advise amateurs
not to use it except on good, heavy, loamy soil. We have inspected
handsome healthy trees on it in such soils.

As Pear-trees grow larger than Apple-trees, it is right to allow them

i88i.] FRUIT -CULTURE. 445

more room to develop. Large trees on walls and in orchards should
be allowed 4 or 5 feet more than Apple-trees, medium-sized ones 2 or 3
feet, and dwarfs 1 foot. The fruit requires to be kept in the same way
as Apples, but we may observe that it suffers more readily from bruises ;
it is therefore necessary to take care not to bruise it, especially if it is
to be kept. Any one almost can tell when a summer Pear is ready for
pulling from the tree by its appearance. Sometimes, however, the
fruit should be gathered and kept in a cool room before it is quite
ripe, in order to have it in perfection. If it is wished to retard fruit
for any purpose, it may be done in this way ; and if it is desirable to
forward it a few days, this may be done by gathering it and placing it
in a warm temperature.

Although there is little chance of a beginner making great mistakes
in the gathering of summer-ripening Pears, it is likely enough that he
will do it in the case of those kinds which do not become fit for use
for months after they are gathered. A good rule is, to gather the
Pears when the stalks readily part from the spurs, but not before — by
this time the seeds are black, which is another sign that the fruit is
ready for gathering.

In the list of Pears which we attach, the month when the fruit
should be fit for the table is mentioned, but it is well to observe that
the time when this takes place varies a good deal. In early seasons
the fruit will ripen very much sooner than in late ones. The
same holds good in regard to early and late localities, and the differ-
ence in the dates of maturing sometimes amounts to a month. It may
be well to remark that a variation of a few degrees in the heat of the
place where the fruit is kept makes a great difference. Those things
can only be learned by the grower as he gains in experience, seeing
that no two districts are exactly alike ; but we ought to add that
almost all the kinds with which we are acquainted ripen much more
satisfactorily if they are placed in a temperature of from 55° to 65°,
when they show signs of maturing. There is generally no great diffi-
culty in managing this, for the placing of them in a drawer in any
room where the temperature is high enough will secure the desired
result. Even placing them in a box on or near the kitchen hearth
will do.

The list we append is very select, and we confidently submit it ; for
we have watched every variety named for years, and have found them
to prove trustworthy in the midland counties of Scotland. Those who
are favoured in the matter of climate may safely add to the list by
following the advice given with regard to Apples.

Early Crawford. — An old-fashioned, but by no means a despicable Pear ;
ripens on pyramids during August; a free and pretty certain bearer, and suitable
for northern localities when finer kinds will do no good.

Citron dcs Carmcs. — Rather later than the above, and very good for succeed-
ing it.

446 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

Jargonelle. — A well-known universal favourite. In Scotland it should he
placed against a wall, otherwise it will do little good. It should be allowed to
extend itself pretty freely. Although it grows and bears freely with by no
means good treatment, it is very much benefited by having its roots looked
after, kept fihry by pruning, and near the surface by careful lifting. Ilipens
at the end of August.

Hessle or Hazel. — Another trustworthy kind, for cultivating as a standard or
pyramid in northern localities. It is only medium-sized, and perhaps scarcely
first-class in quality ; but if we had only room for one standard or pyramid
Pear, we would unhesitatingly plant this, for it is a prodigious and certain
bearer, and very good indeed when none other will grow. Ripe in September
and October — in late years sometimes in November.

Bcnvie. — Another of the same class as the above, and, like it, good for an
orchard-tree in northern or late localities. October.

Sivan Egg. — Another of the same; scarcely so good as Hessle, but keeps
rather better ; very hardy.

Louis Bon clc Jersey. — A very fine Pear, but requires a wall in Scotland.
It is a free bearer, especially when the roots are cared for in the way we
have indicated. If we had only room for one wall Pear-tree, the Jargonelle
would have the position; and if there were only room for two, this would be
the second. Pdpe in October, but very easily forwarded a few days.

Broion Beurre. — Ripe in November; requires a south wall, but is a very
fine Pear, and should be planted wherever there is room.

Easter Beurre. — Another of the same as the last. Well worth a place.
November and onwards.

Seckle. — A very fine, peculiarly-flavoured Pear. We have known it good as
a pyramid in Scotland, but recommend planting it on a wall. October.

Marie Louise. — Another good Pear, requiring the advantage which a wall
affords — at least in Scotland — but well worthy of it. November.

Beurre d'Aremherg. — Also well worthy of a wall. In England it does as a
pyramid ; but does not succeed in ordinary seasons in Scotland unless on a
wall, and then it is sure to do well. November.

Beurre Did. — Almost indispensable for those who require Pears at Christmas
and on through January ; and quite sure to succeed, if favoured with good cul-
tivation and a warm wall.

Ne jdiis Meuris. — A late keeper, and one of the very few such succeeding as
a pyramid or standard in Scotland.

We are sorely tempted to add some more from our note-book, but think that
our selection is quite long enough for any villa gardener whose garden is small,
and room for Pear-trees limited.

Fastening Wall-trees. — Perhaps this is as good a place as any to say a word
on the best method of securing trees to walls. The old-fashioned way, which
is still extensively practised, is to use shreds of strong tweed or other cloth,
half-an-inch or more broad, and 2, 3, or 4 inches long, as need may dictate,
and cast-iron waZ^nails. So far as the trees are concerned the plan is a very
good one, for the branches rest easily in the shreds without much chance of
having the bark damaged ; but it is a bad one for the ivalls, for the constant
driving in and pulling out of the nails very soon loosens the mortar, thus let-
ting in moisture, than which there is no greater destroyer of walls. The holes
thus made also afford a safe retreat for many troublesome insects. A better
way is to have the walls furnished with wire-work trellises. These are easily
put up, and we need only refer to the illustrated advertisements, where the

i88i.] FRUIT -CULTURE. 447

system is explained, while all the materials necessary are detailed. It may
be as well to state, however, that the wires should be laid as closely against
the walls as possible, for it is found that, when they are placed some distance
from it, the trees do not receive the full benefit of the wall's shelter. When
the sun shines the walls are warmed by it, and they in turn raise the tempera-
ture of the air in close proximity to them, and the trees, which lie close to the
walls, are benefited by the higher temperature. When, however, the trees are
fixed to wires which are some inches from the wall, a current of air passes
between the wall and the trees, and much of the benefit which the walls atford
is thus neutralised.

There is another thing to which we might profitably refer here, and that is
the distances at which branches should be trained. Hard and fast rules are
generally laid down for this, but we unhesitatingly say that this is wrong.
A recent writer in a contemporary says that the branches should be placed
" so thinly that the leaves of one branch do not overlap those of another. If
the spurs and leaves of a fruit-tree cover a space of 9 inches, the branches
of that tree should not be less than 10 inches asunder. This is a safe rule to
follow." We have no doubt that such is the practice of the writer of the
sentences quoted, and we believe that the writer's practice is success-
ful ; but it makes some difference in the results sometimes when a practice,
succcessful enough, perhaps, in the south of England, is applied four, five, or
six hundred miles further north. The greatest mistake made by persons who
have had no experience nor opportunities for observation is to overcrowd
trees of all kinds. The sunshine ought to reach every part of a tree which
bears fruit, and the more especially when the sun-rays are few and weak.
This applies with double force to trees on walls. They are planted there
partly for the sake of the shelter which the walls give, partly for the heat
which the walls radiate. If, however, the branches of the trees are so
thickly trained that the wall is wholly covered with leaves, the wall can
radiate little heat. To do this it must first be warmed, and for this pur-
pose part of the wall should be x>urposely left hare. In the sunny south the
bare portion might sometimes get damagingly hot ; in the cold north a portion
of bare wall is often necessary in order to raise the temperature a little.

Not far from where we write are two Easter Beurre Pear-trees and two
Jefferson's Plums, planted at the same time and under precisely the same
conditions every way, and all fan-trained ; but the branches of one Pear and
one Plum are 15 inches apart (which is generally considered ample) and the
others are 2 feet. For what reason they were thus trained I know not, and
may never know, for the gardener who planted and trained them has gone to
his rest, and no one who was ever under him seems to consider it as anything
but just one of his " freaks/' as they call his many experiments; but this I
know, that the thinly-trained trees seldom fail to produce a good crop of very
fine fruit, while the others are neither so fruitful, nor yet is the fruit so fine
in quality, and it is always some days later. We have again and again seen
similar results from the same cause; and we are convinced that the cause is
the larger amount of bare and therefore warming wall-surface. In trying to
overreach others, it often happens that we only overreach ourselves ; and it is
exactly the same with plants. We have said a good deal on this point, but
not more than necessary, for it is a stumbling-block to many, and we don't
remember having seen the same view expressed before.

Insects. — The most troublesome insect which attacks the Pear is a kind of
aphis or green-fly. A thorough washing with the syringe occasionally, is the

448 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

best way to get rid of this insect, or to keep it within bounds. Syringing
wall-trees in summer should always be practised, for it is good for washing ofT
dust, red-spider, and other things which militate against the trees' health.
Scale sometimes attacks wall-trees in warm positions. The easiest way to get
rid of it is to syringe the trees thoroughly in winter, with water mixed with a
sixtieth part of parafFiii-oil. It is not likely to be troublesome in cold localities.
Sometimes different kinds of caterpillar attack the leaves of this and other
fruit-trees. Handpicking is the best cure. A. H. H,

H^MAWTHUS CINWABAHINUM AND H. KALBREYERI.

H.EMANTHUS is a genus of Amaryllidaceae, and these two are very
striking plants. They were introduced from the west coast of Africa,
and are evergreen bulbous plants, the foliage of which, in general
appearance, resembles that of Eucharis amazonica, and they throw
up their flower-scapes in very much the same way as that popular
plant. They produce dense globular heads of bloom on strong stems :
good bulbs of cinnabarinum have heads 6 inches in diameter, and
Kalbreyeri are still larger. The colour of cinnabarinum is a most bril-
liant cinnabar scarlet, tinted with carmine, resembling the colouring of
Masdevallia Veitchii. The anthers are of a brilliant yellow, which
add to its effective appearance. Kalbreyeri, of more recent introduc-
tion, produces splendid heads of bloom of vermilion-red colour, on
very stout stems, that are spotted with bright claret.

These two plants should be in every plant-stove. Their flowers are
very lasting, and keep fresh for a long time when cut and put in water.
They are of easy culture, and, like most bulbous plants, should have
small pots rather than otherwise. They do not require any peculiar
treatment to make them produce their blooms annually. If grown in
loam, a little rotten manure, and a dash of sand, not too far from the
glass, and their foliage kept clean, these two Hsemanthus will amply
repay, with their long-lasting and strikingly brilliant heads of bloom,
any trouble bestowed on them. R. M'C.

WINTER-FLOWERING PLANTS.

The time of year is again at hand when all winter-flowering plants will
or should be placed in their winter quarters. The nights have turned
cold rather earlier than usual in this locality, and plants have in con-
sequence been placed where they are safe. It frequently happens that
when housing time arrives we are not ready for it, and plants are
often checked while houses are being prepared for their reception.
Sooner than run the risk of failure in this respect, it is better to
house the plants, and then wash and do the necessary cleaning to the
houses afterwards. Great difficulty is often experienced in finding

i88i.] WINTER-FLOWERING PLANTS. 419

suitable places for the different plants during the autumn months.
Many cultivators have to contend with such disadvantages, and yet
in the end achieve wonderful success. The spring is a busy season,
and plant and fruit houses are often too crow^ded with plants ;
but in autumn these are comparatively useless for many subjects
except those only that require sheltering from frost. Many plants,
such as Euphorbias, Poinsettias, Plumbagos, and others, will not
do in fruit-houses, but require gentle warmth to bring them forward.
In too many instances, for want of room and proper accommodation,
these plants are either starved or placed in strong heat, which causes
them to make a second growth and become tall and leggy, to produce
only poor flowers or bracts. Such plants only require gentle warmth
to keep them moving until growth is completed, and the bracts or flower-
buds about to form, when they can be developed in stronger heat. The
early batches will have completed their growth, but successional plants
must be encouraged for some time yet. Poinsettias are much improved,
after they commence to form their bracts, if developed in a higher
temperature — say about 65°. The bracts are not only brighter in
colour, but larger in size. Celosias are also improved if their rich
golden and crimson plumes are brought out in heat : a temperature
10° lower than the preceding will suit them well. Where these
plants are in a backward state, they must be pushed forward wdth all
possible speed. If in cold frames, they should be placed where heat
can be given them, with a good circulation of air, and as close to the
glass as possible, to keep them dwarf and sturdy. Celosias quickly
draw up tall and weakly in heat if not given abundance of air, which
is essential to their wellbeing. Winter-flowering Begonias should be
out of cold frames by this time, especially the Manicata type, or the
leaves soon damp, as it is impossible after this season of the year to
keep the atmosphere sufficiently dry to suit them. Damp is the greatest
enemy to Begonias in the autumn ; and they are more liable to suffer
from it than from a little cold.

Cyclamen are amongst the most useful of plants, either for the con-
servatory or room decoration, and should by this time be showing a
good quantity of flowers. The most forward plants, if wanted in
flower early next month, should be placed on a shelf close to the glass,
where the plants can enjoy a little warmth and a good circulation of
air. This is necessary, as, when Cyclamen are placed in heat, the flowers
quickly appear above the foliage, and soon draw up tall and weakly.
The later batches can be kept cool for some time yet : any light posi-
tion will suit them well where frost can be excluded ; in fact they
will do yet for some time in cold frames. These plants are not injured
by their foliage being damp, which is sure to be the case every morning
while in cold frames. To grow Cyclamen well, their foliage should
never be allowed to become dry during the growing season. They
soon fail to grow and do well if subject to a dry atmosphere. Daphne

450 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

indica that has been standing outside should now have the protection
of a cold frame, where abundance of air can be given when favourable.
Any plants that may be wanted to flower early, and have their flower-
buds well advanced, may be pushed gently forward, as their flowers
are always acceptable whenever they are produced. Frames should
now be cleared of Heaths and Epacris, and the plants housed in light,
airy structures, where frost can be excluded during severe weather. A
few of the early-flowering kinds are invaluable for flowering during the
month of November ; and those that were pushed gently forward early
in the season will have their flower-buds far advanced, and a little
warmth will soon bring them into flower. Chrysanthemums may still
be left outside, but in readiness for housing any time, should sharp
frosty nights set in. Disbudding must be pushed on with the late
plants, and the buds not required should be removed as soon as they
can be discerned. Any that may be wanted to flower early should be
taken indoors at once ; and if early-flowering kinds are selected, there
is no difficulty in having them in flower as early as required.

Salvias, Solanums, Callas, Bouvardias, and others that have been
planted out during the summer, and are yet unlifted, should be placed
in pots without delay. Instead of placing them outside until root-
action commences, they should occupy some of the frames from
which other plants have been removed. They should be well watered,
syringed, and kept close for a few days, if necessary, until established,
and then be placed in their winter quarters.

Roman Hyacinths and early Narcissus, if potted up early in the
season, will now have filled their pots with roots. When in this con-
dition, they are ready to be pushed forward gently until they come
into flower. W. Bardney.

MANURE-WATER.

In nearly every garden this is used. In some it is made the most of
— in others it is not used to the extent it should be ; and much
that might be made into manure-water, or what has actually been con-
verted into this, is allowed to be lost in various ways. Those who do
their best to make the most of their land and everything they possess,
generally keep a sharp eye on the manure- water or any kind of matter
good for making this ; and in offering a few remarks on the subject,
attention may be directed to it in two ways : firstly to its manufac-
ture, and then to its application.

Every -one who has any kind of living vegetation under his care
that would be benefited with manure-water, may find ways of getting
or making it. In some cases it is made of itself daily ; in others it
can only be had artificially. In large gardens the former plan should
be followed, if possible. Wherever there is a manure -heap there

i88i.] MANURE -WATER. 451

sliould always be a manure-water tank close by. Here our manure is
placed on a spot with a sharp incline, and at the bottom of this there
is a large deep manure-tank. Nearly all the year round there is some
manure- or other kept in store, and every time it rains much of the
valuable properties which are washed out of the manure are conveyed
to the tank. From here it is sometimes taken as fast as it comes in,
and at oth^r times it is kept in stock, to be drawn in small quantities
as required ; but on no account is any allowed to run away. Such an
arrangement as this gives the full benefit of every particle of the
manure to the plants ; and the best part is not lost, as is too often the
case, by the liquid sinking into useless ground. In summer, when no
rain may fall for weeks, and the manure heap and tank become quite dry,
it may be filled up with water, and a quantity of pig or fowl manure be
emptied in and stirred up in it. In a very short period this will make
a valuable supply, and more can be made in the same way when it is
done. The next best plan to this is to have a large tub or barrel for
making it up in the same way. This may be placed near the plant-
houses, or in whichever part of the garden it is most wanted. Two
or three manure-water tubs are always handy in all gardens, as diff'er-
ent manures can be mixed up in them to suit any kind of crop. Pig-
manure is a good material to make manure-water with, and so are fowl-
droppings. Cow-manure is the next strongest, and then the manure from
the stables ; but the strength of all depends a good deal on how the
animals have been fed. A bag of soot kept at the bottom of the water
is also valuable for almost everything ; and all kinds of manure-water
may be made from the different kinds of artificial manures. Guano
is a favourite material for this, and there are few better ; and we
have an impression that everything is better when mixed up in a large
quantity together. Some kinds of liquid manures are very burning, if
mixed up in a watering-pot and at once given to the plants ; but they
are not so much so if dissolved in some large holder, and allowed to
remain there a little time before using. Old barrels placed in odd cor-
ners about the sheds are always convenient for keeping liquid manure in
stock, and with a number of them different kinds of manures may be
had to suit different plants. Soap-suds and all kinds of slops from
dwellings are also good liquid manures, if they can be emptied into
some large receptacle and mixed up wdth other stuff. Few liquids
about a garden are so valuable as soap-suds, and they would pay well
to be more used than they generally are. For syringing trees affected
with any kind of insect, they are more efficacious than many bought
compounds ; and if Carrots, Parsley, or any kind of roots are being
destroyed by worms, a thorough soaking with suds will, as a rule,
entirely destroy them, and leave the crop in a most healthy condition.
In speaking of applying liquid manure, a caution may be given
never to use it too strong, as two or three weak doses are more
beneficial than one very strong one. This applies to everything, and

2 G

452 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

should be remembered, as much of the success of the liquid depends
on this. In applying liquid to Vine, Peach, Fig, and other borders,
some think it is only when these subjects are in leaf that they need
attention in this way ; but poor borders might be wonderfully enriched
if some good strong liquid was thrown over them in winter, when the
top-growth is dormant. In the case of manure-tanks being attached
to dung-heaps, it is generally in winter that these are oftenest filled,
and they cannot be too often emptied on to the borders or around
trees, and even empty quarters in the kitchen-garden may have it
thrown over them — that is to say, where there are not other crops in
w^ant of it, or where the supply is greater than the demand. Unless
for some special purpose, few are in the habit of giving their vegetable
crops regular supplies of liquid manure ; but in many cases it would
pay well. Peas and Celery are two crops which may always be im-
proved with liquid, and Cauliflower and all this tribe are benefited by
it, particularly at the time they are about forming heads. In all
cases of giving liquid, it is a great advantage to apply it when the soil
about the roots is quite moist. With outdoor crops we generally try
to give it after the soil is well saturated with rain. Then it does not
run away from the roots, but lodges amongst and near them.

In watering pot-plants with liquid, how often may it not be seen
running out at the bottom as fast as it is put in at the top, and pas-
sing away without doing the slightest good ! whereas, if the soil is
really dry at watering-time, and clean water is given until it is reten-
tively moist, and then give the liquid, little or none of it will run
from the soil, but all will remain stored past, as it were, for immediate
and future use. All pot - plants, including Pines, which we water
with liquid, are always gone over first with clean water, to make the
soil thoroughly moist, and then a good supply of liquid manure is
given. This is the best way of applying it to all kinds of plants and
soils, no matter whether in pot, border, or field. It is generally
no loss to allow clean water to drain away at watering time ; but as
little as possible of this should take place with valuable liquid. When
to apply liquid manure is also a matter of much importance. If weak
and cool, few and tender roots may escape being injured by it ; but to
use strong water to plants with few roots is always dangerous. Suppos-
ing the soil in a Pine-pot to be saturated with guano-water shortly
after potting, and just as the young roots were beginning to push, ten
chances to one they would never go much further, but growth would
stop, and the plant assume a yellow, unhealthy colour. Subject the
same plant to similar treatment when it is showing fruit, and has a
pot well crammed with roots, and the advantage of it will soon be
apparent. The use of liquid manure to all plants should be guided
by the same considerations. Some manures, early applied, will burn ;
others will cause the soil to become sour and unhealthy, as there are
not sufficient roots to utilise the manure ; but with abundance of roots

i88i.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 453

and robust top-growth the result is very different. It is not easy to
say how often liquid manure should be given, so much depends on the
state of the roots, the kind of plants, and the weather. In warm, dry
weather, when watering must be done often, liquid may sometimes be
given every other day; but when growth is going on slowly, once
a-week or so is often enough to use manure ; and it will generally be
found safest to be very careful with it until the plants have passed
their soft growth, and are on the way of gaining maturity.

J. MuiR.

Marqam.

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

THE BORONIA.

The Boronias are a genus of plants some of which should be in every
collection. They are very free - flowering and sweet-scented, and
besides being useful for cutting and general house and conser-
vatory decoration, are among the best of exhibition plants. They
are not now nearly so much grown as they formerly used to be, and
as their merits deserve. B. serrulata especially, makes a splendid
specimen when well grown, but it takes a deal of care and attention
to maintain it in good health, as it has a habit of going off in the most
unaccountable manner, and therefore requires constant watchfulness in
.the way of watering, &c.

The Boronia is a native of the Australian continent. The soil best
adapted to its wants should consist of fine fibry peat and a good
portion of sharp sand, with some small pieces of charcoal incorporated
therewith. Though the Boronias are greenhouse plants, they are very
much benefited by getting a little extra heat in spring, just when
growth commences, and until they have fairly started into growth,
when they may be gradually introduced to the cooler temperature of
the greenhouse. They are propagated by cuttings of the half-ripened
wood, which should be inserted in pure silver sand in a properly
prepared pot, and covered with a bell-glass. They are somewhat liable
to damp off, and therefore, to reduce the chance of this to a minimum,
the bell-glass should be taken off and wiped dry inside every day.
As soon as the cuttings have made roots, they must be potted up
singly into thumb-pots, and kept growing on in a mild heat. They
will require to be kept close and shaded for a time, until they start
into fresh growth, when the shading may be discontinued, and a
little air given on favourable opportunities. The aim at first should
be to get nice stocky plants, and therefore pinching the points of the
shoots must be resorted to, whenever they have made sufficient growth
to admit of it. When the small pots have got filled with roots, they
must be shifted into larger pots. The shifts, however, should never
be large, as it is a very fine-rooted plant, because if large shifts

454 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

were given, the soil would be more likely to get soured by repeated
waterings, before the roots had permeated the ball. The pot should
in no case be more than two" sizes larger than the one the plant is in ;
and it will be even safer should tliey be only one size larger. In
potting, the soil should be rammed in pretty firmly, so that it may not
retain more water in suspension than what is necessary for the wants
of the plant. As the season advances the plants should be introduced
into a cooler and more airy structure, in order that the wood may be
thoroughly ripened before winter sets in. The temperature during
winter should be maintained at from 40° to 50°. They should be
frequently syringed, in order to keep them free from scale, to which
they are somewhat subject, as also a kind of smut or fungoid growth,
which frequently gathers on the leaves and stems, rendering them
black and unsightly, and injuring the health of the plant. In order
to keep them clear of these pests, nothing beats tepid water in which
a little soft-soap has been dissolved : it is the most harmless, and one
of the most effective of insecticides. The foliage being so small, it
is next to impossible to hand- wash it, so the syringe should be in
frequent use. Boronia serrulata and B. Drummondii are the two best
of the species, and flower from the middle of April till the end of
June.

THE POLYGALA.

This genus of plants comprises a great many varieties, embracing as
it does hardy annuals, hardy herbaceous plants, and greenhouse ever-
green plants. The latter, to which alone the following notes refer, are
all natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and all bear purple flowers.
The varieties which are best known, however, and oftenest met with
in cultivation, and which used to be more frequently met with than
they are now, consist of the two varieties, P. Dalmaisiana and P.
oppositifolia. They are both worthy of a place in the greenhouse, as
they are exceedingly useful subjects to cut from, for they stand the
knife well, and one can cut-and-come-again at them. They are very
useful for house and conservatory work, and are good exhibition
plants also, though perhaps not among the very best for this purpose.
They have the further merit of taking but a moderate share of atten-
tion to grow them well. The soil which suits them best consists of
two parts of good fibry peat and one part of loam, with sufficient
sharp sand to keep it open. They are increased by cuttings of the
side shoots, taken off when they have made about 2 inches of growth.
These should be put in among silver sand, in a properly prepared pot
in the usual way, covering with a glass, and set in a warm pit until
they have struck roots, when they should be potted off singly into
thumb-pots, and set back into the warm pit until they get a fresh
start. They should be kept well pinched back when they are young,
as otherwise they are apt to grow straggly. They must be shifted on

i88i.] FEEDING VINES AND SETTING MUSCATS. 455

into larger pots as the others get filled with roots ; and they should
get plenty of light and air, so that they may be kept stocky, and that
the wood may get well ripened. The winter temperature should range
about 45°; and after the flowering season is past, they should be cut
back pretty hard, and started away into growth again in a mild heat.
This operation should be performed annually, so that they may be
kept bushy. After they have started again into growth, they should
be hardened off, and placed outside in a sheltered position, but where
they are fully exposed to the sun. In order that the wood may get
matured, they should be put either on a deep bed of ashes, or ou
inverted flower-pots, so that worms may not obtain a lodgment in
them. They are occasionally attacked by red-spider ; but the best way
to keep this in check is to maintain the plants in a healthy condition
at the roots, and to syringe them now and again.

J. G., W.

FEEDING VINES AND SETTING MUSCATS.

I CAN thoroughly corroborate the remarks in the leading article of your
August number, on the feeding of Vines in general and the setting of
Muscats. Having annually practised the same manner of mulching all
our Vine-borders for the last five or six years, the roots of the Vines
are now running all over the border within 3 inches of its surface :
previously not one could be found nearer it than a foot.

The Vines under my care are nearly forty years old, and I would not
advise any one to adopt the common practice of uprooting old Vines in
order to substitute young ones, if they showed signs of moderate vigour ;
for from these old Vines, after five years of rich top-dressings, there has
this season been cut bunches weighing 5 lb., and the average weight
all over was 2h lb.

I have advocated low night-temperatures, as I consider it only a waste
of both fuel and vegetable force, if I may so term it, to force with high
night-temperatures. But after several years' trial of this system, we
are convinced that a set of Muscats is more certainly secured with a
rather high temperature. Our former temperatures for Muscats at the
blooming period ranged from 55° to 60°, according to the state of the
weather. Under this temperature some bunches set very fairly ; but
this season they set very much better with fully 5° more heat. Besides,
our best set bunches have always been at the hottest part of the vinery.
At one particular place there is a hot-water tank and a flue passing
up the wall, and near to this hot part our best set bunches have
always been found. The damping of the house is never stopped
when the Vines are in bloom, and I do not consider a very dry atmo-
sphere necessary ; but certainly my experience points to a rather high
temperature for the greater part of the twenty-four hours of the day
when Muscats are in bloom. J. W. B.

456 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

HINTS FOR AMATEURS.

HARDY FRUITS.

The gathering and storing of fruits is often attended with much
anxiety, it being of great moment to have them dry and free from
injury when taken under cover. Very late kinds should not be
gathered too soon ; shrivelling would then take place. When the
seeds begin to assume a black colour, it is a sign the trees have done
their work for the fruit. This applies to Apples and Pears. They
also break off freely from the trees. They ought to be handled
carefully, and laid out on shelves, clean and dry, and plenty of air
admitted to the structure till " sweating " is over ; then a close dark
atmosphere suits them well. In large old barns they may be seen
stored in this district as one would Potatoes ; and they evidently
keep well in such quarters. To keep frost from them it is well to
throw dry straw over the stores ; but there is not much fear of their
requiring such protection during October. Now is a good time to
prepare for planting fruit-trees. It is well to consider what purpose
the trees are ultimately to serve. Orchard-trees under which sheep
and cattle are to graze should be on high stems, and the bark pro-
tected. Some rub them with a mixture of lime and tar ; but though
recognising the use of lime by itself as a wash to cleanse trees, we
would prefer three or four stakes placed round the stems, lashed
together at the top by a piece of wire. Bush and pyramid trees are
most suitable for gardens and private orchards ; and, preparing for all
and sundry, we would trench the ground all over, and place brick-
rubbish below each tree. Firm planting, secure staking, and careful
mulching, are matters of no small importance to begin with. Strong
loam, well drained, on a slope to the south, is the most favourable
condition for the trees that we know of. A quantity of free healthy
loam placed with the roots of each tree as the work of planting goes
on, gives a favourable start to the trees. Transplanting, lifting, or
root-pruning should be done as early as possible before the cold weather
sets in. The same remarks apply to bush fruits of all kinds. They
mostly require manure in liberal quantities, especially good mulch-
ing. A stock of Currants (black, red, and white) should be grown
in the shade of a wall or hedge, to give late supplies.

Apricots, Peaches, and Plums should be well kept up above surfaces where
they are flat ; these all do well with careful lifting (replanting the roots out
flatly). When they are again placed in the soil the fibres should be retained
with the greatest care, cutting off" clean any injured roots, or any which are
long and naked. In flat orchards channels should he made to take off" the
surface-water as quickly as possible. Though orchards are to be met with in
fruit-growing districts in every position, aspect, and elevation, and growing
as if to shut out the horizon, it is worth the trouble to give them a fair amount
of attention as to thinning their centres, proper aspects, keeping the bark free
from moss, and preventing them from growing the one into the other, as is too

i88t.] hints for AMATEURS. 457

frequently the case in favoured districts where nature is allowed to do as she
pleases, and then is grumbled at when the trees grow out of bearing by neglect
of the most ordinary attention. Where trees are cankering and showing each
year numbers of dead and dying shoots, the cause may be found in the soil ;
deep down the roots will have grown into sour unhealthy subsoil, and are
there decaying like their top : prevention at planting time to send the roots
horizontally would save much trouble and loss. Choose kinds of fruits well
known in the district for their hardiness and free-bearing quality. Among
Pears we mostly find (they are with us this year extra good) Louise Bon of
Jersey, Marie Louise, Pitmaston Duchess, Thompson's, Glout Morceau, Jersey
Gratioli. Apples, such as Stirling Castle, Lord Sufiield, Eclinville, Welling-
ton, Keswick Codlin, Irish Peach. Plums in abundance were Green Gage,
Blue Gage, Jefferson, Kirke's, Victoria, Coe's Golden Drop, Diamond, and
Peach Plum. Peaches on open walls are and were Early Rivers, Hale's Early
(both very useful), Bellegarde, Crimson Gillande, Royal George, Violette
Hative. The foregoing are among the hardiest of their kind, and may often
be seen plentiful in exposed positions when many other kinds are scarce. All
late and sappy growths on wall-trees should be removed or shortened, and
every means taken to assist the maturation of the wood. Shoots should be
thin, and not platted one over the other; this applies particularly to Figs. These
always do wisll when spurs are short, natural, and close to the walls. Straw-
berries should already be trimmed and manured, either by spreading rotten
manure on the surface or by slightly forking it in. The roots need not be
disturbed. Young plants may be put in reserve beds till wanted. In the
orchard- house every attention should be given to ripening of wood without
disturbing the foliage, which are maturing the permanent fruit-buds ; late
growths may be removed. Trees, whether dwarf bushes, tall standards, or
trained to trellis-work, which are continuing to grow late, and showing absence
of ripening their wood, should be carefully examined at the roots to see the
cause; naked tap-roots going straight down may be found and maybe re-
moved ; over-doses of manure-water may have done mischief, which will ne-
cessitate regulating at the roots ; removal of mulching and surface-soil may
be of service in hastening the ripening of wood. A dry current of air is in-
dispensable to the wellbeing of trees at this season. Where ripe Peaches of
the Late Admirable and Solway kinds are still hanging, and are wanted to
ripen, dryness and abundance of air will aid them ; but where hot-water pipes
are at command, they will push forward ripening of wood or fruit. Trees be-
ginning to shed their leaves of the Standard class, planted out, which are grow-
ing one-sided to the sun, may be lifted and rej^lanted, placing the thin bare
side next the south ; they are very manageable under such a practice, and can
be kept as fruitful dwarfs many years, and bear immense crops of fine fruit,
and can be helped greatly by liquid manure,

SHRUBS.

Planting of the Evergreen class will now be well advanced where means and
time can be spared for such. It is always well to get the roots well started in
the fresh soil during autumn. Late-planting taught many a lesson last year
to planters which they will not soon forget. Trees and shrubs which did not
get a hold of the soil early were hard dealt with during the winter; and the
dry spring experienced in so many parts put the finishing stroke on them.
Well-trenched ground, good-sized pits to give all freedom to root-growth, and
a quantity of fine healthy soil placed with them at planting time, are matters

458 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

which may not be termed labour in vain. Thorough staking is very essential;
the wires forming a cone placed round the stem, which is well padded with
cloth, hay, &c., and fixed so that the one prevents the other from drawing the
tree from its position. To keep the plant entirely independent of wind, is
the best method we know of keeping tops and roots secure.

FLOWER-GARDEN.

The planting of bulbs such as Hyacinths, Narcissus, Crocuses, Jonquils,
Scillas, Daffodils, Early Tulips, Snowdrops, &c., maybe done before end of
the month. All do well in rich, well-drained, deeply cultivated ground; but
these would not be too late if planted next month. Some prefer plantations
made of them at dilTerent periods. Plants for spring gardening may be plant-
ed as early as circumstances will allow. Arabis, Alyssum, Aubrietias, Daisies,
Pansies, Chrysanthemums, where they do well in borders under protection,
may be planted, but they are seldom seen presentable out of doors. Calceo-
larias, Pansies, and other plants of a hardy character, may be propagated in
pits or frames. Pansies often do well under hand-lights and temporary lights,
but a slight protection during severe weather is of great advantage to them,
and they can be hardened in spring and planted out strong-flowering plants.
Ours planted last April are now full of flowers. The kinds are, Purity, White,
Tory, Purple, Sir Walter Scott, Blue, Golden Queen, Blue Cap, and some
others. They are in extra-rich soil, deeply cultivated, and well stirred on
the surface to keep out drought. They were only watered once. Sedums
of sorts, Cerastium, Menthas, Ajuga reptans and variegata, Aralias of sorts,
and similar hardy plants, may be placed in a border to have them in quantity
at planting time. Lifting and potting of flowering-plants of the more tender
class may now be done. Frost may come at any time ; last season it was
very severe at first, and caused losses to many. Even tender plants in frames
are not safe. Alternantheras, Iresines, Heliotropes, and suchlike, should be
made safe at night. If the stock of Pelargoniums is not abundant, a number
of old plants may be lifted : they do well for centres. Strip off plenty of
leaves to prevent damping. Trim in the roots a little, and pot in sandy loam,
using as small pots as possible. Variegated, bronzes, and tricolors may have
extra care taken with them; a little dry heat with plenty of air would be
of service in starting new roots. Bottom-heat in a mild form would aid
them greatly. Store all cuttings and plants in quarters free from damp.
Hedge-cutting, turfing, walk-repairing, may be pushed forward. Prepare
ground for Hoses by trenching and manuring.

PLANT-STRUCTURES.

Plants to be wintered under glass should all be safe from frost, neatly ar-
ranged in their winter quarters, clean and orderly. However hardy any
plants in pots are (which have to stand the tear and wear of forcing), they
should at least have protection in severe weather. If in pits under glass-
lights so much the better. The whole stock of Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Roses
(China, Noisette, and Teas, especially), Lilacs, Kalmias, Deutzias, Dielytras,
bulbs of sorts, may be potted for succession. Syringas, Cherries, double
and single, Kalmias, Lily of the Valley, and others well known, should be ar-
ranged in lots, in order to select from the earliest of the stock suitable plants
for forcing, and this work will soon require attention. Where a gay conser-
vatory and cut-flowers are matters of great request. Chrysanthemums should
now be all secure by stakes, and taken under glass to flower, giving them

i88i.] KITCHEN -GARDEN NOTES. 459

plenty of light, air, and liquid manure. Calceolarias may require pottirg, and
should have plenty of air and light now. Fire- heat is much against their
"wellbeing. Cinerarias and Primulas also require cool airy treatment. Frosty
winds are very injurious to this class of plants. Cyclamens growing planted
out in frames should be potted, if not already done. Heaths, Epacris, and the
whole class of New Holland hard-wooded plants, should be placed where there
is plenty of air and light. A little fire-heat, with fresh dry air on, may be
necessary to keep greenhouses and conservatories healthy; but should only be
used as a necessary evil. Cleanliness in every respect is indispensable to the
health of plants. Pelargoniums cut down and growing freely, may be potted
into small pots, first reducing the roots. Keep them cool, and water with
much care. Mildew may appear on some plants ; sulphur sprinkled on the
l)est will soon eradicate it. All surfaces of pots should be free from moss and
weeds, and the soil kept porous. Fumigate with tobacco, to destroy aphis
wherever it appears. At this season choice plants in flower for show-house
are not very plentiful ; but there are so many with fine foliage and graceful
habit, that there need be no lack of interest in this structure : neatness and
order and absence of crowding always do much to help the appearance of
plants — the reverse of this robs them of much of their beauty. Plants in
flower now are autumn Heaths. Camellias which were forced early, Eoses,
Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Mignonette, Violets in pots, Salvias, Valottas, and
others, mixed with Phormiums, greenhouse Ferns, Palms, Dracpenas, Corda-
lines, &c., make a good display. In stoves the stock of winter-fl.owering plants
should have the best positions for light ; shading everywhere may now be re-
moved. All staking, surface-cleaning, washing of lights, sponging of leaves
and stems, drainage, pot- washing, should be done thoroughly now, and cleanli-
ness may be an easy matter afterwards. Plants coming forward for flowering
are Euphorbias, Begonias, Justicias, Eucharis, Gardenias, Gesnerias, Scutellarias,
Thyrsacanthus, Calanthes, Poinsettias, Libonias, and others. Stove-heat may
not be over 65"^ at night. M. T.

KITCHEN-GAEDEN NOTES.

Hoiu our Broccoli Crop ivas Saved. — When the critical reader— all
gardeners are critical — has scanned these lines, he will probably be
disgusted at having such an old-fashioned plan brought to his notice.
But this, like some more old-fashioned modes of gardening, is one well
worthy serious consideration. Well, for two seasons we were just as
unfortunate as our neighbours in seeing the Broccoli quarter trans-
formed from strong healthy plants in autumn to a lot of rotten stumps
in spring. Last autumn I thought of an old plan which used to be
carried out in a garden where I was employed, and I determined to
follow it out. It was simply to lift the plants and lay them in sloping
with their heads to the north. The way we went to work was to turn
a deep spit over to the north, then the northmost row of plants was
lifted and laid in deeply in the trench so taken out, the tops of the
plants resting on the soil which had been cast out. The trench for
the next row of plants was turned over on to the roots and stems of
the first row ; and so on till the whole lot was thus transplanted. As

460 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

to results : of most of the kinds not a plant was lost ; of the earlier
varieties about half went. As a matter of course, the heads were
about half the size they would have been had they not been lifted
and the winter proved an open one ; but in a winter like last, the
system was very advantageous. As to time of lifting, my plan
was to choose just sufficient time to allow the plants to make a
few fresh roots without starting them into top growth before the
winter set in. Early in October suits our climate ; others may want
to do the work earlier. The plants must be quite lifted. In a neigh-
bouring garden where the plants were merely turned over, very little
difference was made in the amount of top than if they had not been
touched.

Peas. — My opinion of Stratagem Peas was exactly like that given in
last month's ' Gardener.' I do not think, taking the crop as a whole,
that we could get our seed out of it again. But I saw it near Liver-
pool, in the garden under the care of Mr Bardney, and there it was
really fine. What becomes of all the new Peas, by the way 1 I try
some of the new ones every year, and still continue to depend on old
sorts. While writing of Peas, I may say I think very highly.indeed of
Early Sunrise, a sort distributed this year for the first time. It was
our earliest Pea here, coming in even before plants raised in heat and
planted out under protection till established. William the First I can-
not depend on now, so many rogues have got mixed up with the real
Simon Pure. I find Princess Eoyal a most profitable second early Pea ;
so is Champion of England, but it requires high cultivation. For
flavour and general usefulness as a late Pea, nothing has yet come up
to Ne Plus Ultra. I always get the finest Peas off the preceding
year's Celery trenches. I never manure the ground for Peas ; they are
fond of potash, and fresh manure as commonly used is of no use for
Peas — at least such is my experience.

Lettuce. — I find Hick's Hardy Cos Lettuce the Lettuce par excel-
lence for our soil. We have it summer, autumn, winter, and spring,
and find no other sort to compare with it.

Celery. — Celery has been a continual plague to me for the last year
or two. Big Celery has been wanted, and in growing big sorts I have
miserably failed, as the plants would go in for seed-production some
months before their time. I once had a pinch of Sulham Prize Pink
to try, and thought highly of it. This year I have it and Major
Clarke's Solid Red, a kind which never fails, though not large, for the
main supply. The former is the finest I have ever yet had, — large,
strong, and healthy, and only one plant in 1200 run to seed. In my
endeavours to reach large Celery I have tried various ways of prepar-
ing the soil in the trenches, and find nothing better than this : Prepare
a mixture of half mushroom-dung and half cow-manure, fresh loam if it
can be had, one barrow-load each of soot and burnt-wood ashes to ten
of the dung, and some chemical manure rich in phosphates ; this is

i88i.] LOW NIGHT-TEMPERATURE FOR VINES. 461

laid on 6 inches thick and mixed thoroughly into the soil by digging.
A layer of mushroom-manure is laid on the surface and worked round
the roots of the plants when put out.

Trenching. — Trenching I find to be the greatest possible help to
successful kitchen-gardening. Every bit of ground bare in winter we
trench, not only turning over the soil a couple of spits in depth, but
shovelling the loose soil over as well and digging up the bottom of the
trench. Decayed rubbish may be got rid of by being put in the bottom
of the trenches, and in all cases a heavy dressing of dung is of advan-
tage. You can take crop after crop without any trouble off land
which is kept well trenched and manured. R. P. B.

LOW NIGHT-TEMPERATURE FOR VINES.

In a leading article in the ' Gardener ' of August last, and containing
much with which I quite agree, occurs the following passage : " In
our practice we have never been able to corroborate the teaching of
those who advocate a low temperature as being best for such varieties
as the Muscat of Alexandria and others of a similar habit, for we have
invariably found that these set best with a brisk, indeed a high, tem-
perature j and we have seen Muscats that have been worked low at the
blooming period which were not set at all." As I have, perhaps, had
more to do with recommending low temperatures than anybody else,
and have indeed been characterised as the ^'Author of low night-tem-
peratures for the Vine " in some of the horticultural papers, whether
that may mean credit or blame, I have to ask you to allow me to reply
to the above damaging but exceptional testimony against the " cool
system." Since I first drew attention to the subject about nine years
ago, numbers have adopted low temperatures, and of those who have
from time to time written to record their experience in the matter,
your correspondent is the only one who has confessed to having failed
— all have succeeded but him. That I reckon a fact of some import-
ance. Only lately an able and frequent contributor to the ' Journal of
Horticulture,' but unknown to me, said in reference to what I had
written on the subject, that "Nothing in modern times has done so
much to produce improved health in Vines and better quality in
Grapes as the lowering of night-temperatures. There may be nothing
new under the sun, but the high night-temperatures of a few years ago
are a thing of the past, because those temperatures were destructive.
I do not mean to say that nobody practises the old method, but I
know that most of our best growers have abandoned the practice."
The same writer only a week or two ago, in the same paper, stated
that he cropped his Vine-canes regularly at the rate of from 30 lb. to
50 lb. to the rod ] adding that his command of heat was all that could

4G2 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

be desired, but that he " maintained cold pipes during darkness, no
matter what the weather may be." The editor also of the same paper,
answering a doubting correspondent on the same subject, states a very-
suggestive fact ; he says : " There is no doubt whatever that Grapes
have set freely in a minimum temperature of 50°. We have for years
had fine and full sets of Black Hamburgs when the temperature on
many occasions was as low as 45° when the Vines were flowering.
This, however, was not by preference, but the consequence of what
many might term defective heating appliances ; still, as the crops were
invariably satisfactory, the defect indicated was not admitted, and it
was not deemed necessary to incur the cost of alterations when good
results could be produced without them. More failures occur in set-
ting Grapes by injudicious ventilation and other errors in management,
than by the fall of a degree or two in temperature from the regulation
high standard of 70° for Muscats and 65° for Hamburgs."

Since I drew attention to the subject nine years ago, I have sub-
jected every vinery on the place here to the cool system — always strictly
prohibiting a higher night-temperature by fire-heat than 50° until the
berries were set and fit to thin, but never feeling the least uneasiness
if the thermometer fell 5° lower than that in the morning, when the
berries were in full flower. From 40° to 45° is our figure up till the
flowering period. During these nine years I might any season have
challenged any of my neighbours in any part of the country to produce
better examples of setting. Our Muscats being in flower early in the
year, have always been subjected to the most prolonged low tem-
perature, and they have always set well, the berries becoming
wedged together by the thinning period, so thick are they. We
have a houseful of large shapely bunches of Muscats at present, not
one of which presents a defective shoulder through bad setting. I
will venture to say also, that there is not a range of vineries in
England on which a less expenditure for fuel has been incurred for
night-heat proportionately, if there be any which have cost so little. It
has been a common practice with us to turn the heat of even the
Muscat-house off at 2 o'clock p.m., and leave it off all night if frost was
not feared, and then only a little was turned on at 10 o'clock or later.
That the Vines are improved by the cool treatment I am sure, for no
Vines suffer less from red-spider than ours. They are never either
cleansed or painted, nor ever have been. This is one great gain, and
the other is that we save at the very least fifty per cent in fuel. ' I am
aware that there are good cultivators who have set their Grapes in a
temperature 25° higher than that advocated by me, and who believe it
to be necessary ; but having given both ways a fair trial with all sorts
of Grapes, and under the strictest conditions of trial, I feel justified
in stating that they are labouring under a complete delusion.

J. Simpson.

' WoRTLEY Hall Gardens.

i88i.l SUBTROPICAL BEDDING. 463

THE BEST POTATOES.

TiiEEE or four years ago, when we tried over five dozen kinds of Pota-
toes, we felt rather sure of getting at least one dozen really good kinds
out of them ; but experience proves that we have been expecting too
much. Since our first trial we have been weeding out the worst, and
this year we find we must make further reductions. This is not so much
owing to the bad quality of any kind, as to the ravages made by the
disease. Good looks are always much sought after in the Potato,
and the best-looking kinds I find are generally most liable to disease.
International Kidney, for instance, is the finest-looking Potato of the
kind in existence ; but it is exceedingly poor in quality, and three
parts of it always go with the disease. Woodstock Kidney, another
beauty, merits the same character. In round varieties, Fenn's On-
wards, Foxe's Improved Round, White and Red Emperor, and many
others, are all of fine appearance ; but they suffer so much from the
disease, that they never pay for culture. The only kinds which have
almost escaped with us, and which are well worth growing, are Sutton's
jMagnum Bonum, Scotch Champion, Turner's Schoolmaster, Hooper's
Covent Garden Perfection, Wheeler's Gloucestershire Kidney, Mona's
Pride, and the Improved Peach Blow. The Champion, Schoolmaster,
and Peach Blow are rounds : the others are kidneys. The kidneys
are best for early use. Schoolmaster and Peach Blow may be used in
autumn, Magnum Bonum in winter, and the Champion in spring.

J. MuiR.

SUBTROPICAL BEDDIISTG IN PRIVATE GARDENS.

The advantages to be derived from an extension of the subtropical
system of bedding in private gardens, must sooner or later force its
way upon the minds of those who have much experience of flower-
gardening. The same plants, it is true, that are employed in the more
favoured climate of the south, cannot be brought into general use in
northern latitudes; but at least many plants — and not a small number
either — might be used to much advantage and good effect.

The meagre attempts at outdoor embellishment with many plants
devoid of natural beauty, and many of them of little interest, except to
botanists and scientific men, have already distracted attention from what
was promulgated not long ago as being an ideal system of flower-gar-
dening. Plants which possess few attractions of habit, form, or colour,
and which are extravagantly extolled on paper and tinselled with fine
words that are technically true but practically misleading, are not
likely long to retain a hold of public favour. We have been too
well schooled to admire gracefulness of habit, beauty of outline, and
symmetry, to accept a plant as something startling because it has a
long name.

464 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

Upon the other hand, there are innumerable sources to draw from, at
a very cheap rate, which will supply us with adequate material to
embellish and beautify our dressed grounds. From seeds alone there
is an abundant wealth to be obtained of choice plants of rapid growth,
and possessing in no inconsiderable degree the habits and properties
that are best calculated to suit the tastes of the age in which we live.
I am not now going to enter upon any exposition of cultural treatment,
— my object is rather to ask all interested in flower-gardening to " com-
pare notes," and to insert in their note -books the "true" relative
eff'ects produced by the different plants generally employed for the
summer and autumn decoration of dressed grounds and flower-gar-
dens, I look in vain for anything like a show, to be obtained by
grouping hardy plants. The past dry summer has so completely ex-
hausted them, and in some cases reduced them to absolute poverty,
as far as appearance is concerned, that no amount of laudation upon
paper can possibly retain the position that was claimed for them
amongst summer decorative plants. No. A good many have lost
their lives (poor things !) during the past winter, and the reputation
of a great many more has been decently interred since the late heat
and protracted drought. Who will say that this is an over-coloured
picture 1 I am writing from practical experience, and some disappoint-
ment at the turn events have taken in regard to many so-called hardy
plants. What is a hardy plant 1 And who shall draw the line of
demarcation (accurately) between what is a hardy plant and what is
not, after the experience of recent winters 1 In all fairness, then, the
half-hardy plants, commonly called subtropicals, are as cheap, some
of them cheaper, and vastly, incomparably, more effective than the
stalwart specimens that have been dangled before our eyes for some
time past.

We will now look at the opposite side of the picture, and glance
briefly at the material that can be raised from seeds within the short
period of four months, and the relative effect produced by the two
classes of plants. The different varieties of Ricinus, Cannas, Zea
japonica variegata (which is as handsome or more so than the finest
Pandanus Veitchii I ever saw when well grown), the lovely Acacia
lopantha, Solanum marginatum, and the green prickly varieties.
Daturas, with Balsams and different-coloured Pelargoniums for front
lines, and many other plants equally simple to raise and cultivate.

I have omitted the many kinds of Palms, and other plants that
could be objected to on the ground of cost, which are of course addi-
tional attractions ; but as my object is to show how a fine effect may be
produced in a simple way and by simple means, and to contrast or
rather compare the display created by associating and blending plants
of graceful habits and different colours with Phloxes and Sun Roses,
I do not think it is necessary to give a very comprehensive list. But
what of the relative cost"? The short list that I have given as an

i88i.] DRAC^NAS. 465

example contains nothing costly or expensive — the plants can all be
raised from seeds ; it is in their rapid growth and development when
generously treated that they excel most other subjects in appearance
and effect. If they are planted 6 feet apart they will touch each other
in six weeks, provided they have not been starved before being planted
out. A few bright colours worked in amongst them for large beds
will give tone to a large garden, and save the annual propagation of
thousands of smaller plants, which are bright in their way, but beyond
a passing look are both tame and ineffective. I will now conclude as
I began, by asking all who are interested in flower-gardening to draw
their own inferences from the suggestions I have ventured to make,
and to draw them from actual comparison while there is yet material
in abundance to compare notes which will enable one and all to con-
ceive fresh arrangements for another year. W. Hinds.

DRAC^NAS.

There are seasons v/hen our collections of new and rare plants receive
more than ordinary additions. They at times come and take us by
surprise, like the discovery of a " gold-field," which, to use a colonial
term, causes a rush. The life of a plant-collector may not always be
one of pleasant ease or romantic experience : yet who does not envy
him the pleasure of seeing the first blush of beauty of some new rarity,
patiently waiting for its introduction to the floral world 1 We have at
present to deal with rarity in beauty of foliage, rather than in that of
flowers, as we note a few of the Dracasnas of recent introduction. In
the year 1877 we can count no less than ten new varieties, which were
introduced for competition against those of lesser fame. The list may
commence with D. Robinsoniana, a distinct variety from the South
Sea Islands, the leaves of which are elegantly arched. The ground-
colour is good, with margins of crimson-rose. D. triumphans is a fine
decorative plant, and forms a good contrast with the broader-leaved
varieties. The colour is a dark purple, but much relieved by the
glaucous hue of the under- surface. The incurving of the winged
edges of the petiole is a distinctive characteristic. D. ampliata. — The
foliage of this variety is distinctly marked with stripes, suffused with
creamy-white, rose, and crimson. D. nivalis, with its drooping leaves
elegantly margined with white, and its natural neat habit, is one
of the favourite varieties. D. cruenta is more bold in habit, with
a more robust growth, and is certainly most ornamental and effective.
D. roseo-perfecta. — The younger foliage of this variety seems to be the
most attractive, which in its early stage is creamy-white, suffused with
purplish-rose. In D. vestalis we have the long lanceolate leaf, with
its distinctive margin of white, relieved by the rich ground-colour of
the leaves, giving to it a charm which few of the genus possess. D.

466 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

Goldieana, a native of western tropical Africa, was one of the best
successes of '77. The plant is of erect habit, with fine spreading
leaves, which are delicately marbled with remarkable regularity. It
is just the kind of plant which is sure to become increasingly popular
for exhibition purposes. In '78 we had only two really good additions
to this useful class — viz., D. Gladilina and D. lucinda. D. Gladilina
is a useful and effective variety. The leaves are of elegant form, and
of a rich full green. The margin is distinct and wide, the pinkish-
crimson coming out in bold contrast against the darker background.
D. lucinda has the advantage of possessing distinctive properties both
in the young and old foliage. The young leaves have a rosy-carmine
margin, while in the old leaves the carmine becomes much more
intense as the leaf advances in age.

Among the many new varieties, we may be permitted to introduce
an old one — viz., D. australis. In New Zealand and Australia its
qualities are fully recognised, and it is now being extensively used
where special effects are required. Even in our cold climate it might be
more extensively used to advantage during summer months, as centres
for large beds or other prominent positions. For greenhouse or con-
servatory decoration during winter it will be found invaluable, as it
greatly assists in imparting to these structures a tropical appearance.

As a class of plants for table-decoration the Dracaena holds a first
position, and more especially when we consider the ease with which
it may be propagated, giving every facility for the increase of stocks
to meet the largest demands. W. F.

IS THE ROSE RED?

Poets have occasionally said harsh things of science, — indeed one goes
so far as to stigmatise the man of science as one who would untwist
the rainbow, and even botanise upon his mother's grave. Still we are
in duty bound to listen to scientific conclusions, although they go
against the opinions and associations of the past or present, and pull
down much that we cling to with true conservative spirit.

The able author of 'Inventions of the Nineteenth Century ' takes
up a Rose and thus discourses upon it. The Rose, he says, is red — not
because it has redness in itself, but because the light which falls upon
it contains some rays in which there are movements that occur just the
number of times per second that gives us the impression we call red-
ness,— in short, the colour comes not from the flower, but from the light.
Now, might we not say the Rose is always red by whatever light we
see it, and therefore the colour must be in the flower 1 For whether
we view it by sunlight or moonlight, or candle-light or gas-light,
we invariably see that it is red. All this must be granted, yet it is
precisely this circumstance, the seemingly invariable association of the

i88i.] IS THE ROSE RED? 467

object with a certain impression (in this case redness), that leads our
judgment astray, and makes us believe that the colour is in the object;
and it certainly requires the comparison of many observations and ex-
periments to establish a truth so unlike the settled convictions of early
life. The point in question, however, is one extremely easy of experi-
ment, and one which would form a source of pleasant entertainment
for any spare winter's evening. Let us procure a spirit-lamp, and
place on the wick a piece of common salt about as large as a pea ; let
the lamp be lighted in a room from which all other light is completely
excluded, and bring near to the flame a red Rose or scarlet Geranium.
The flowers will be seen to have strangely transformed from the bright-
ness of their colours, to what appears an ashy grey. A ball of bright
scarlet wool, such as ladies use to work their bright designs, when
held near this flame is apparently no longer scarlet, but of the more
homely grey. The experiment may be made even more striking when
at a little distance from the spirit-lamp is placed a feeble light of the
ordinary kind — a rush-light, for example.

A bouquet viewed by the rush-light shows the so - called natural
colours of the flowers ; but when brought under the salted light or
flame, the Roses, Verbenas, and Larkspurs, or whatever else the
bouquet may contain, with one exception — viz., that of yellow flowers
— all become of a uniform ashy grey. The same influence is observ-
able upon fleshy matter — the pink coral-like lips become a livid hue,
almost repulsive to weak nerves. Let us now seek for a few explana-
tions. In the first place, it may be stated that spirit burnt in the way
indicated gives off little or no light of any kind. When, however,
common salt is introduced into the flame, then light is given off; but
light of only one particular colour — that colour being yellow. Our
search would be in vain for red, green, blue, or violet vibrations ; and
as the objects on which the light falls cannot supply these, it follows
that with this light no impression corresponding to these colours can
be produced on the eye, whatever may be the object upon which it falls.
We must therefore come to the conclusion that the colours come from
the light, rather than from the object. Of course it must be remem-
bered that there is in each substance something that determines which
are the rays absorbed, and which are the rays reflected to the eye ;
something that can destroy certain waves but is powerless over others,
that rebound from the substance, and reaching the eye, there produce
their characteristic impression. And it is but this power of sending
back only certain rays among the multitude which a sunbeam furnishes,
that can be attributed to objects, when we may properly say that flowers
have such and such a colour. In this sense only, then, we have a right
to say that the Rose is red. Yet it is also true that the redness is not
in the Rose, if we believe that the agent which produces in our visual
organs the impression of colour is not in the objects, but in the light
which falls upon them. We offer the above as a mere outline of the

468 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

subject ; and as gardeners, like otlier men, require some recreative
study which unites pleasure with profit, we think there could not be
a better than this science of colour, which has a rare capacity for add-
ing both to our professional and intellectual enjoyment.

W. Forbes.

THE MATsTCHESTER INTERNATIONAL HORTICUL-
TURAL EXHIBITION.

August 24-27.

It was generally anticipated that a grand display of plants, fruits, and vege-
tables would be brought together in response to the liberal schedule of prizes
offered by the council of the Manchester Royal Botanic Society ; but the re-
sults apparently exceeded the most sanguine expectations. Larger and more
varied exhibitions of plants are occasionally held ; but it is doubtful if the
Manchester display of fruit and vegetables was ever equalled. The council,
and Mr Bruce Findlay, the respected and energetic curator and secretary of
the above Society, are therefore to be congratulated upon the result of their
labours with regard to the extent of the exhibition. Unfortunately the
weather was uncontrollable, and on at least two days of the four advertised
exhibition days, rain constantly fell in torrents, water at times flowing down
the tent pathway in great streams. This, as might be expected, frightened
away thousands of intending visitors ; the consequence being, to a great extent,
financial failure. Fortunately the prize fund was principally previously
subscribed, the original intention of the organisers being to devote the gate-
money to the rebuilding of a range of glass houses. This much needed re-
storation would be a very satisfactory outcome of the "Jubilee Exhibition,"
both to Mr Findlay and all interested in the Manchester Botanic Gardens, and
it is to be hoped will yet be executed.

Manchester being comparatively a central spot, is equally convenient to
northern as well as southern exhibitors, and both were remarkably well repre-
sented, notably in the fruit classes ; and as these classes invariably prove most
attractive to gardeners, we propose to discuss them more fully than our limited
space will warrant in the case of the other sections of the show — good as all
undoubtedly were. For the same reason (limited space), no attempt will be
made to enumerate one-half of the prize-winners, and where mentioned, the
gardener's name only will be given. In what may justly be termed the
premier class — viz., that for a collection of fifteen kinds of fruits, there were
four entries, all staging high-class fruit. Mr Coleman of Eastnor Castle secured
the first prize with excellent examples of Black Hamburg, Muscat of Alex-
andria, Gros Maroc, and Madresfield Court Grapes ; good smooth Cayenne and
Queen Pines ; Blenheim Orange and Eastnor Castle Melons ; a dish each of
highly-coloured Chancellor and Bellegarde Peaches, Elruge, and Lord Napier
Nectarines ; Brown Turkey Figs, Moorpark Apricots, and fine fruits of Pit-
maston Duchesse Pear. MrM'Indoe, Hutton Hall, Guisborough, was awarded
the second prize for a good collection, in which w^ere excellent examples of
Barbarossa and Black Hamburg Grapes, highly-coloured fruits of Humboldt
Nectarines, and a fine dish of Beurre Superfine Pears. In the third prize col-
lection, staged by Mr Roberts, Gunnersbury, were creditable examples of Madres-
field Court and Black Hamburg Grapes, Smooth Cayenne and Queen Pines, and

i88i.] MANCHESTER HORTICUL. EXHIBITION. 469

"William Tillery Melon. With twelve kinds of fruits there were seven entries,
but three failed to stage. The first prize was awarded to Mr J. Austen, Ashton
Court, Bristol, for a capital lot, consisting of well-coloured Muscat of Alexandria
and Black Hamburg Grapes, two Pines, a Melon, Noblesse Peaches, Elruge
Nectarines, &c. The second prize lot, staged by Mr G. T. Miles, Wycombe
Abbey, Bucks, was only slightly beaten, included good Gros Maroc and Muscat
Grapes, and Pines. Four collections of nine kinds of fruits were staged, the
first prize coming to Mr Edmonds, Bestwood Lodge, Notts, and his most
noteworthy dishes were the Black Hamburg Grapes, Smooth Cayenne Pine,
and Best-of-all Melon. Mr J. H. Clayton, Grimston Park, Tadcaster, was
placed second in this class. Six exhibitors staged six kinds of fruits, the first
prize going to Mr D. Wilson, Castle Hill, Devon. Collections of hardy fruits
in twelve kinds were not extensively shown, and with the exception of those
staged by Mr Haycock, Maidstone, were not of marked superiority.

In a well filled class for ten varieties of Grapes, one bunch of each, Mr Hun-
ter, Lambton Castle, Durham, proved invincible. This exhibitor's bunches
generally were very heavy, and in most instances the berries were large and
well-colcured. The varieties were Gros Colmar, Barbarossa, Trebbiano, Mus-
cat of Alexandria, Lady Downes, Aramon, Calabrian Raisin, Black Hamburg,
Foster's Seedling, and Black Alicante. Mr M'Indoe followed with much
smaller, but otherwise excellent examples. The third prize was awarded to
Mr Hammond, Bray ton Hall, Carlisle, for a collection which only wanted time
to ripen properly. Out of fifteen collections of six kinds of Grapes, the best
were those staged by Mr Elphinstone, Shipley Hall, Derby. His bunches
were not remarkable for size, but the berries were set evenly, and large and
perfectly coloured, notably the Gros Colmar, Madresfield Court, Alicante, and
Muscat of Alexandria, and very good were the examples of Muscat Hamburg
and Golden Queen. Mr J, Austen secured the second prize for a very credit-
able lot, and Mr Hammond was again third. Black Hamburgs were largely
staged, there being twenty-two competitors in the class for two bunches. The
first prize examples staged by Mr Boyd, Callender House, Falkirk, were perfect
in every respect, and but slightly inferior were those which gained the second
place for ]\Ir Barker of Rock Ferry. Twenty exhibitors staged two bunches
of Muscat of Alexandria — Mr Austen being first with, for the season, remark-
ably well-finished bunches, Mr J. Hudson, Gunnersbury House, Acton, follow-
ing closely. In a good class Mr Boyd was first with Muscat Hamburg
Grapes, and Mr W. Wallis, Kirkby Hall, York, second. Mr J. H. Goodacre
staged well-finished examples of Madresfield Court, and was placed first in
the class for that variety, Mr Roberts following closely. Mr "W. Elphinstone
staged grand bunches of Black Alicante — perfect in every respect, and was
awarded the first prize ; and very good were the second prize bunches staged
by Mr Forbes, Derwent Lodge, Cockermouth. Mr Elphinstone was also first
for two bunches of Gros Colmar, Mr Forbes being again second ; both staging
perfect examples. The best Lady Downes were staged by Mr W. Bannister,
Cole House, Westbury-on-Tyne ; and the first prizes for Duke of Buccleuch
and Golden Champion Grapes were secured by Mr M'Indoe, the exhibits in
each instance being of the best description. The second prizes in the two
latter classes were well won by ]\Ir J. Morton, Chorlton- cum -Hardy. Six
competed for the prize offered for the best seedling Grape ; a promising white
variety, said to be the result of crossing Foster's Seedling and Muscat of Alex-
andria, staged by Mr Ollerhead, Wimbledon, received the award. The bunches
staged in the two classes for heavy bunches were, as a rule, both remarkably

470 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

large and remarkably ugly. Mr IJoberts, Tullamore, Ireland, secured the lirst
prize for white varieties with a bunch of Trebbiano weighing 201b. .3oz., and
in the corresi)onding class for black varieties Mr Roberts was again first with
a bunch of Gros Guillaume weighing 201b. Mr Finigan, Hayton, and Mr
Dickson, Arkleton, also showed well in these classes. Pnies were not exten-
sively shown, and did not include any sensational fruits. ]\lr ^M'lndoe staged
the best six — the varieties being Smooth Cayenne, Charlotte llothchild, and
Ripley Queen. Mr D, Wilson had the two best Smooth Cayennes, each weigh-
ing 6lb. Several Qaeens were staged; the best by Mr Whitfield, Aigburth.
In the class for any other variety, ]\Ir Muir, Margam Park, staged a good fruit
of Black Jamaica, and received the first prize.

Peaches and Nectarines were shown extensively, and in many instances were
remarkably good. The premier collection of three dishes of Peaches, staged
by Mr Hunter, Lambton, consisted of Bellegarde, Grosse Mignonne, and Early
Mignonne — all of good size and very highly coloured. Mr Coleman was a close
second. The latter was first for a dish of twelve Peaches with fine fruits,
very highly coloured, of Bellegarde. Mr Hunter was again first for three
varieties of Nectarines, the varieties being Lord Napier, Violette Hative, and
Elruge. A fine dish of Lord Napier gained Mr Coleman the premier award for
twelve Nectarines. Mr E. Bland, Cranbourne Court, Windsor ; Mr J. JMorton ;
Mr Gilbert, Burghley ; Mr Eoss, Welford Park, Newbury; and Mr Masters,
High Legh Hall, all secured prizes in the different classes for Peaches and
Nectarines. As a rule, the judges gave the preference to highly coloured ex-
amples, but such colourless varieties as Victoria and Prince of Wales in two
instances secured the premier awards.

Apricots were shown in fair numbers, but none were particularly good, and
the majority were really of inferior quality. Mr Pt. Gilbert staged the best
twelve, and Mr Malcolm, Tarporley, the best six.

Melons, as often happens, were staged in great numbers, but the majority
were of poor quality. Mr T. G. Miles staged the two best green-fleshed
kinds, the varieties being Wycombe Hybrid and Golden Gem, and Mr Pratt
the two best scarlet-fleshed — a seedling. Hero of Lockinge, staged by Mr
Cordale, AVorcester, was adjudged the best green-flesh, and Victory of Bristol,
staged by Mr T. Bailey, Shardeloes, the best scarlet-flesh variety.

Mr Muir, Margam, was the only exhibitor of a collection of Lemons, Citrons,
Oranges, &c. (open to all countries), and was most deservedly awarded the
gold medal for a collection of eighteen varieties well grown.

Hardy fruits generally were extensively shown, and included good examples
of many of the leading kinds. Mr Mason, Victoria Buildings, Manchester,
staged a grand collection of fruit in the fruiterers' class, and easily secured the
premier j^rize. The baskets of Duke of Buccleuch, Golden Champion, Black
Hamburg, and Muscat of Alexandria Grapes in this collection were remarkably
good, and all other kinds of fruits were fairly well represented. In the fruit
class, the Bristol Chrysanthemum was the only horticultural society repre-
sented, and they were awarded a gold medal for a generally creditable display.
For the valuable special prizes offered by the General Horticultural Co.
(J. Wills, manager), for a collection of twelve dishes of fruit, Mr W. Coleman
and Mr J. H. Goodacre were the only competitors, both staging excellent pro-
duce, and were awarded the prizes in the order named. The same firm also
offered prizes for twelve bunches of Grapes, six to be black and six white. Mr
Hunter, Lambton, rather easily beat the other five competitors, his stands of
Muscat of Alexandria, Trebbiano, Black Hamburg?, and Alicantes, being re-

i88i.] MANCHESTER HORTICUL. EXHIBITION. 471

markable on account of the great size of the bunches, and the large, even, and
fairly well-finished berries. Mr Loudon, The Quinta, Salop, secured the second
prize with well-grown produce.

The Veitch Memorial prizes were awarded to Mr Wilson, Castle Hill, Devon,
for three heavy, handsome fruits of Smooth Cayenne Pines ; to Mr Goodacre
for ten kinds of English-grown fruit ; to Mr J. Boyd, Falkirk, for three bunches
of any black Grapes ; and to Mr Raffil, Tredegar Park, for three bunches of
white Grapes. Mr Boyd competed with Muscat Hamburg, which were perfect
in every respect, and Mr Raffil won with remarkably good Muscat of Alex-
andria, the competition being close in both classes.

Before leaving the fruit classes, it ought to be mentioned how well many of
the Grapes were brought from a great distance. Some of the premier prize
bunches — notably those shown by Messrs Boyd, Elphiustone, and Goodacre —
were fastened to boards only, no cotton-wool being employed. For black
Grapes the stands were covered with clean white paper, and for white Grapes
with pink paper. The bunches were fastened by the wood, attached as usual,
and near the points a string was passed round each stem, through the boards,
and tied behind. In this manner they travel well, show to the best advantage,
and, what is very important, do not sweat so badly, and for this reason are
comparatively of a greater marketable value at the close of a show\

There were numerous classes devoted to vegetables, in all of which the com-
petition was very strong. Including special prizes, there were five classes for
collections of vegetables, and these were all exceptionally well filled, and the
produce generally was of good quality. The best of thirteen lots of twenty
varieties was staged by Mr G. T. Miles, among which were good Rouen Leeks,
"Walker's Exhibition Onions, Tender and True Cucumbers, Green Globe Arti-
chokes, Early Munich Turnips, and Stamfordian Tomatoes. Mr Muir staged
an admirable collection, but slightly inferior; the third prize going to Mr J.
Turk, Cheltenham. In the class for ten varieties, Mr J. Snowdon, Thirsk,
occupied first position, staging among others very fine Giant White Celery,
Snowdon's Nonsuch Peas, and Moore's Cream Marrows. Mr W. Iggulden,
Marston, Somerset, was a good second, and J\[r Crump, Blenheim, followed.
For Messrs Sutton's prizes there were thirteen competitors with twelve dishes,
Mr Wildsmith, Heckfield, being awarded the first prize for a collection cer-
tainly inferior to that which gained Mr Miles the second place. Mr Wildsmith
had good Schoolmaster Potatoes, Improved Reading Onions, Exhibition
Sprouts, and Snowball Turnips. About the same number competed for
Messrs Dicksons' & Robinson's prizes, the best collection of twelve kinds being
staged by Mr G. Summers, Mr 0. Arbrell occupying second position. For the
Messrs Webbs' prizes, the same number again competed. The best collection
of six kinds was staged by Mr Crump, and ]\Ir R. Milner secured the second
prize. There were classes for single dishes of all kinds of vegetables, but these
call for no particular mention. The best out of eleven collections of twenty-
four varieties of Potatoes was staged by Mr Miller, Hampstead Park, Xew-
bury ; Mr D. Lumsden, Bloxholm Hall, followed ; and the third prize was
awarded to Mr W. Kerr, Dumfries. Mr Miller was also first for eighteen
kinds, Mr M'Kinlay being placed second. There were about forty collections
of twelve varieties of Potatoes staged, the best coming from Mr R. Gilbert,
Burghley, Mr Wildsmith being placed second, and j\Ir Ross, Welford, New-
bury, third. The judges in each instance gave the preference to medium-sized
and generally even tubers.

Large specimen plants were not extensively shown, prizes being offered

472 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

more for collections arranged for effect, and new and rare kinds. Messrs E. Cole
«fe SoQS secured the premier prize for twenty specimen foliage and flowering
plants, Mr Tudgey staging a collection but slightly inferior. The Di[)ladenias,
Ixoras, AUamandas, Ericas, and Lapagerias, were noteworthy in these collec-
tions. The groups of plants arranged for ellect were particularly attractive,
both nurserymens' and amateurs' classes being well filled. In the former, five
firms were represented, all meriting the prizes awarded, a fifth prize being
given. The group arranged by ]\lessrs II. P. Ker & Sons, which secured the
premier award, was very tastefully arranged, and included many well-grown
choice plants. Messrs E. Cole & Sons were awarded the second prize. In the
amateurs' class Mr G, Smith, Stretford, secured premier honours for a very
tasteful arrangement ; Mr C. Paul, Bowdon, following very closely. Orchids
were not extensively shown, and were not remarkably good. Mr B. S. Wil-
liams, Holloway, exhibited the best group in the nurserymens' class, his most
noteworthy specimens being the Oncidium macranthum, Saccolabium Blumeii,
Cattleya crispa, Laelia elegans Turnerii, Dendrobium Pierardi, and Vanda
suavis. Mr J. Hill, Teraperley, staged the best group in the amateurs' class ;
Mr Perry, Penpole, Bristol, and Dr Ainsworth, Broughton, taking the re-
maining prizes. Crotons were quite a feature in the show, the many well-
grown and comparatively novel varieties attracting much attention. Most
OQsnicuous was the premier prize group, staged by Messrs Ireland & Thom-
son, Edinburgh. This included grand plants of C. Princess of Wales, Etna,
fasciatus, Weismanni, angustifolius Disraeli, majesticus, interruptus aureus,
pictus, and Queen Victoria. Mr B. S. Williams and Mr Cypher followed with
remarkably attractive groups. Messrs Ker & Sons' Dracaenas, consisting of
beautifully grown plants of picta, Hendersoni, amabilis salmonea, Gladstonei,
Bausei, speciosa, regina, recurva, and Goldieana, secured that firm the premier
prize ; Mr B. S. Williams and Messrs Ireland & Thomson following with
specimens but slightly inferior to the foregoing. The best Palms in the nur-
serymens' class, staged by Mr B. S. Williams, consisted of Kentia australis,
Geononia Seemanni, Cocos W^eddelliana, Chamserops Fortunei, C. humilis,
and Kentia Belmoreana ; Messrs Cypher and James Dickson & Co. following
with well-grown specimens. The principal exhibitors of Palms among ama-
teurs were Messrs Lingard, Hammond, and Tudgey. Ferns -were also exten-
sively and creditably shown. Messrs B. S, Williams, E. P. Ker & Sons, and
J. Cypher, were the principal exhibitors of new plants ; the former being first
for both twelve and six varieties, and also for a single plant in flower, staging
in the latter instance Angrajcum amabile, a very sweet-scented, neat-growing
Orchid. In the corresponding class for a new fine-foliage plant not in commerce,
Messrs Ireland & Thomson took first place with the remarkably showy Croton
Thomsonii ; Mr B. S. Williams following with Asplenium horridum. Messrs
Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, also exhibited a considerable number of novel-
ties, but not for competition, to several of which certificates were awarded.
Three of the most generally attractive of these were the specimens of the
hybrid Rhododendron Duchess of Connaught, Ixora Westii, and Asparagus
plumosus nanus. Several certificates were also awarded to Mr B. S. Williams
for new plants, and similar awards to Messrs Ireland & Thomson for Croton
Thomsonii ; and to Mr J. Anderson, for Cattleya gigas superba. For the
Veitch Memorial prizes for single plants the competition was not very keen.
The best specimen Orchid (not made up) was the Saccolabium Blumei majus,
bearing two spikes of flowers, staged by Mr Pvoberts, Gunnersbury. A beauti-
fully flowered specimen of Dipladenia hybrida won Mr Tudgey the prize for

i88i.] THE CALEDONIAN HORT. SOC. SHOW. 473

the best stove-plant in flower ; and the same exhibitor was also successful with
an Erica as the best greenhouse plant in flower. In the former class F.
Tagart, Esq., Bristol, staged a grandly flowered specimen of Eucharis amazonica,
carrying upwards of one hundred spikes of blooms. Mr R, Tyldesley, Wor.sley,
had the prize for best collection of hardy Ferns, and W, Brockbank, Dids-
bury, that for fifty herbaceous and Alpine plants.

Near to the exhibition house and tents were arranged the competing collec-
tions of Conifers and Japanese plants, and these were both attractive and
instructive to the numerous visitors. Messrs J. Standish & Co., Ascot ; John
Waterer, Bagshot ; Paul & Son, Cheshunt ; and Caldwell & Sons, Knutsford,
were the principal prize-winners in this section.

Among the miscellaneous exhibits the splendid group of Dracaenas and other
choice plants arranged by the General Horticultural Company was most con-
spicuous, both on account of the beauty of arrangement and the quality of the
plants employed. Messrs Veitch, B. S. Williams, and Cutbush & Son, High-
gate, all arranged very attractive groups of choice plants. MM. Chantrier
freres, Mortefontaine, France, and Messrs Ireland & Thomson, contributed
grand collections of Crotons ; and from Messrs Paul & Son, Cheshunt, came a
very pleasing group of Tea Roses in pots. Messrs Cannell & Sons staged a
collection of cut flowers, such as Verbenas, Asters, Pelargoniums, and Dahlias;
and from Messrs J. Dobbie & Co., Rothesay, Bute, came a fine collection of
Pansy blooms. Messrs Fisher, Son, & Libray, Sheffield, exhibited greenhouse
Rhododendrons and other choice plants; and Messrs Birkenhead, Sale, Man-
chester, a grand assortment of Ferns. In addition to the foregoing, there
were classes for a great variety of cut-flowers, table-decorations, and bouquets,
and prizes were also given for cut Roses by the National Rose Society and the
National Carnation and Picotee Society. In every instance the competition
was good, and the quality of the exhibits satisfactory.

Implements were largely exhibited, but the situation and weather com-
pletely marred this section. Gold medals were awarded Mr J. Bramham for
his Allerton Priory boiler; to Messrs Richardson & Co., Darlington, for a
greenhouse suitable for a smoky district ; to Mesrs Halliday & Co., Middleton,
for a collection of boilers and houses ; to Messrs Foster & Pearson for a green-
house constructed on a light principle, &c. Messrs D. Low & Sons, Edinburgh
and Manchester, put up several good substantial houses, as also did the Messrs
M'Kenzie & Moncur, of Edinburgh and Glasgow; and there were many other
exhibits deserving of mention, but which must, for reasons already given, be
passed over. A Southern Correspondent.

THE CALEDONIAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S
SHOW.

This event, which causes so much interest to many gardeners, was this year
conspicuous for the even quality of the Grapes shown. None of the bunches
were of a large size, but the general excellence of these as a whole was
most noteworthy. Some of the cut - flowers were also of a high order of
merit, while the vegetable tables were filled with examples of very fine
culture indeed. The plants displayed a thinness which the massive tables
filled by the Edinburgh nurserymen, and the single plants dotted about the
market from the Royal Botanic Garden, could not prevent being noticeable.
The weather on the first day was of that miserable dripping character we on

474 THE GARDENER. [Oct.

the east side of the island are fast becoming too familiar with : fortunately
there occurred a break on the second day. A very large gathering of gardeners
and others interested in horticultural pursuits were present the first day,
amongst w-hom were notabilities from the South and from across the Channel.

As usual, tlie exhibition produce set up by nursery firms bulked largely.
The Lawson Seed and Nursery Co. occupied the west end of the market as
usual, this time with an oval group of stove and greenhouse plants very
prettily arranged on the system of dotting tall plants amongst an undergrowth
of those of smaller size. Messrs Ireland k, Thomson again tilled the westmost
large group with a most elleetive group of plants, conspicuous amongst which
were some of the Crotons with which the premier card was carried off from
the Manchester International a fortnight previously. As at Manchester, such
fine Crotons had not before been seen at Edinburgh. Two fine Nepenthes
were also shown in this group, besides a very choice assortment of the newer
and best popular stove and greenhouse plants. Four new Crotons were also
shown, to each of which a first-class certificate was awarded : these were C.
Thomsonii, which was first at Manchester in the class for the best new plant,
C. Duke of Buccleuch, C. Houldsworthii, and C. Whittonii — all grand varieties,
superbly grown and coloured. Messrs Downie & Laird's table was in the
massive style common to the groups of this firm — extra-large Palms having the
chief share in the get-up. Very attractive were the fine boxes of cut florist's
flowers with which the front of one side of this table was filled. These
included Dahlias of every section, French and African Marigolds, Pentstemons,
Phloxes, and Violas, in the best and newest varieties. In the table next to
this, Messrs T. Methven & Sons had a very varied display of plants suitable
for table decoration, and a great variety of Ferns, some large Palms occupying
the centre of the group, Messrs Dicksons & Co. filled the endmost table,
having some grand Tree Ferns as their jjtece de resistance. A very fine
Eucharis amazonica was also noticeable ; while two large baskets filled
with flowering plants of Primula capitata were worthy of attention. Collec-
tions of their Pinks for borders and cutting purposes were also shown : some
of these are valuable additions. Close by, a table filled with medicinal and
other interesting plants not commonly met with, had been furnished by Mr
Sadler from the Poyal Botanic Garden.

Turning now to the competition produce, we noted all the flowering plants
as very good indeed — Mr Paterson's Heaths, when we consider the lateness of
the season, being quite a feature. Mr Paul's plants were large and well
bloomed ; and a fine Lapageria rosea was shown in the 2d-prize lot of two
flowering plants. The foliage plants were not so fine as we have seen them.
Ferns were fresh, but small ; the Orchids only a small competition, but con-
taining some good plants — notably so, a good specimen of Oncidium nemorum,
with four long spikes of its soft flowers. A good specimen of Odontoglossum
grande was also noticeable. Two very fine flowers of Cattleya gigas were
exhibited from Mr Smith, Brentham Park. The group of plants from Mr
Paul had some nice flowering pieces of Orchids intermixed very effectively
amongst foliage plants. Vallotas were a very rich display.

Amongst the cut-flowerSj the Roses from Messrs Cocker & Son, Aberdeen,
were very remarkable, many of the blooms being as fine as they are to be seen
in summer. This firm also showed stands of Alfred Colomb, Marie Baumann,
Comtesse d'Oxford, and La France, in grand order. Dahlias were a good
show, even and fine in quality. Phloxes were also fine ; and very bright were
the Geraniums. Amongst Asters, the first-prize quilled dozen were extra-

i88i.] THE CALEDONIAN HORT. SOC. SHOW. 475

ordinarily fine examples of good culture. Hollyhock, Gladiolus, &c., were
either poor in quality or nothing out of the common about them. Messrs
Todd & Co., Maitland Street, had some bouquets, a wreath, &c, — beautiful
examples of this kind of thing.

As already noted, the Grapes were of very high excellence ; there were
also a great many of them ; and many of the competing lots were so
very close as to make judging rather an unpleasant duty, while the role
of the critic in consequence was a very easy one, and duly followed up
by a large number of people who knew all the points before them, weak
and strong alike. This is a very pleasant occupation, at the same time
that it enlarges one's faculties of observation, and is altogether a most bene-
ficial manner of passing the time at a fruit show. It has, however, one draw-
back—I can only think of one at present — there is a difficulty that we poor
reporters feel very much, and that is, we would also like to examine the fruit,
in order to allow the large constituency of gardeners who cannot get to see the
fruit for themselves to have at least some idea as to how it looks. Of course
it doesn't matter at all that many ladies never get near the tables. Well, the
great feature was the Grapes. M'Indoe's collections of fruits were highly
meritorious, his Pears, Peaches, &;c., being better than those of any other com-
petitors; but in the class for eight sorts, the Broxmouth Grapes overweighted
even the general high quality so noticeable throughout his collections. For
eight bunches of Grapes, Mr M'Indoe was the only exhibitor; the sorts were
Black Hamburg and Barbarossa, fine and good Gros Colmar, and Duke of
Buccleuch. For four bunches, Mr Kirk, who made a sensation two or three
years ago, was barely first, Mr M'Kinnon following very closely indeed. In
the twelve-bunch class, the weight of the Broxmouth Grapes again proved
overpowering, though the second lot was again very close. Especially fine
were the Muscat of Alexandria, the Gros Colmars, the Alicantes, and Buck-
land Sweetwater in the first lot — Barbarossa, Trebbiano, and Duke of Buccleuch
being the strong bunches in the other. In the classes for particular varieties,
in many cases the first and second prize lots were of the closest, some grand
examples of highly finished Grapes being shown. In the Black Hamburg,
Muscat of Alexandria, Gros Colmar, Black Alicante, Lady Downes, Duke of
Buccleuch, and Golden Champion classes, this was especially noticeable. We
have seen much finer Pine -apples than were forward at this show; but
Peaches, though not large in number, were extra fine. Much dissatisfaction
was shown over the judging of these, large and fine-looking fruit being passed
for that of a smaller size. Apricots were very fine indeed ; and the first-prize
collection of hardy fruit was a most notable one.

In the vegetable classes, the first-prize collection in gardeners' section was
the only noteworthy lot ; but in the classes for particular kinds, some grand
examples of high-class culture were staged. In addition to the Crotons from
Messrs Ireland & Thomson, which obtained first-class certificates, a Lobelia
from Messrs Downie & Laird, named "Miss Duncan," had a like award; as
also a new Heath from Mr TurnbuU, Bothwell Castle, which is named Erica
Thompsoni : this is a most floriferous variety, with rosy tube and white petal ;
the flowers are borne in round spikes.

The judges were: — Messrs Thomson, Clovenfords; John Methven, Blyths-
wood ; Charles Johnstone, Dalhousie ; M'Kinnon, Scone Palace; Campbell,
Merton Hall ; Galloway, Minto ; Lindsay, Botanic Gardens ; Shearer, land-
scape-gardener, Edinburgh; M'Kenzie, Warriston ; Souza, Tough; Anderson,
Oxenford ; and Grey, Eglinton,

476

THE GARDENER.

[Oct.

The following is the prize-list : —

Fruit.

Collection of Fruit, twelve sorts. — 1
and 2, J. M'ludoe, Hutton Hall ; 3, Mr
M'Intyre, Innerleithen.

Collection of Fruit, eight sorts, exclud-
ing Pine Apples. — 1, Mr M'lvelvie, t;ar-
dener to the Duchess of Koxburghe ; 2,
J. M'Indoe ; 3, Mr M'Intyre.

Eiglit bunches Grapes, four sorts. — 1,
J. M'Indoe; 3, Thomas Bnyd, gardener
to W. Forbes, Esq., Falkirk.

Four bunches Grapes, sorts. — 1, A.
Kirk, Alloa ; 2, Geo. M'Kiunon, Melville
Castle.

Twelve bunches Grapes, six black and
six white (first prize by the Corporation
of the City of Edinburgh).— 1, Mr M'Kel-
vie, Dunbar ; 2, J. M'lndoe, Guisboro' ;
3, Mr A. Mackie, Darlington.

Two bunches Muscat AlexandriaGrapes.
—1, D. Calderhead, Wemyss Castle ; 2,
G. M'Kinnon.

Two bunches Black Hamburg Grapes,
—1, A. Kirk ; 2, T. Boyd.

Two bunches Mrs Pince Grapes. — 1,
M. Brodie, Galashiels; 2, A. M'Leod,
Blind Asylum, Craigmillar.

One heaviest bunch of Grapes, black.—
1, Ewan Cameron, Mofiat ; 2, J. Robert-
son, Stirling'.

One bunch Muscat Alexandria Grapes,
—1, D. Calderhead ; 2, G. M'Kinnon.

One bunch Alnwick Seedling Grapes. —
J. Robertson.

One bunch Black Hamburg Grapes. —
1, A. Kirk ; 2, T. Boyd.

One bunch Black Hamburg Grapes, for
size of berry.— 1, A. Kirk; 2, T. Boyd,

One bunch Black Alicante Grapes, — 1,
W. Collins, Walkerburn ; 2, T. Boyd,

One bunch Lady Downes Grapes, — 1,
A. Kirk ; 2, T, Boyd,

One bunch finest - flavoured White
Grapes.— 1, D. Calderhead; 2, D, Mur-
ray, Maybole,

One bunch finest - flavoured Black
Grapes, — 1, L. Dow, Newbyth; 2, T.
Boyd,

One bunch Black Grapes, for finest
bloom. — 1, T. Boyd; 2, J, Carruthers,
Corstorphine.

One bunch Gros Colmar Grapes. — 1,
Wm. Lees, Hillsbro' Castle, County
Down; 2, J, M'Indoe.

One bunch Golden Champion Grapes.
— J, M'Indoe,

One bunch Duke of Buccleuch Grapes.

Class I.

—1, A. Scott, Carbery Towers; 2, A,
; Kirk,

One bunch Madresfield Court Grapes,
— W. Kay, Milburn Tower,

Best bunch of any Grape not named in
this Schedule.— 1, J. Brimton, gardener
to Sir A. Kinloch ; 2, James Carruthers,
gardener to A. B. Fleming, Esq.

One Queen Pine Api)le.— J. M'Indoe.

One Smooth Cayenne Pine Ai)ple, — 1,
D. IMurray; 2, J. M'Indoe, Guisboro'; 3,
Mr M'Intyre.

One Pine Apple, any other sort. — 1, D.
Murray; 2, J, M'Indoe, Guisboro'; 3,
Mr M'Intyre.

One Melon, green fleshed, — 1, W. Kay;
2, W, Allison, Monifeith,

One Melon, scarlet fleshed. — 1, W,
Eraser, Dunning ; 2, D, Murray,

Twelve Figs, — 1, J, Gordon, Niddrie ;
2, J. Brunton, Drem,

Six Apricots, — 1, G, M'Kinnon, Lass-
wade ; 2, J. Brunton,

Twelve Plums, four sorts, three of
each, — 1, W. Henderson, Polmont; 2, J.
Lamond, Alloa,

Twelve Peaches. ^ — 1, Ewan Cameron ;
2, D. Calderhead.

Six Peaches, grown on open wall. — 1,
J, Brunton ; 2, L. Dow, Prestonkirk.

Six Nectarines, two sorts. — 1, J.
M'Leod, Stirling; 2, W, Williamson,
Tarvit.

Six Nectarines, grown on open wall. —
1, Mr M'Lean, Maidstone; 2, J, Brun-
ton.

Six Jargonelle Pears, fit for the table,
— 1, Andrew Lornie, Cockburnspath ; 2,
L, Dow,

Six Pears, two sorts, named, three of
each (exclusive of Jargonelle), fit for
table,— 1, J, M'Indoe, Guisboro'; 2, Mr
M'Lean.

A collection of Baking Apples, six
sorts, named, three of each, ripe or un-
ripe.— 1, W, M'Kelvie ; 2, Mr M'Lean,

Six Dessert Apples, fit for the table,
two sorts, named, three of each. — 1, J.
M'Indoe; 2, Mr M'Lean.

One Pint of Gooseberries, — 1, John
Matheson, Lassw^ade ; 2, James Corsar,
Linlithgow.

One Pint of Red Currants,— 1, James
Brown, Criefi"; 2, Jas, Corsar,

A collection of ten sorts of Hardy
Fruits (all the fruit in this collection
must be grown out of doors). — 1, J.
Brunton ; 2, George Barrie, Salton Hall.

Plcmts.
Table of Plants, 20 feet by 5 feet.— 1

A. Paul, Gilmore Place ; 2, R. M. Reid
Edinburgh.

Class II.— Gaedeners akd Amateurs.^

Six Stove or Greenhouse Plants, in
flower.— 1, J. Paterson, Millbank ; 2. A.
Paul.

Three Stove or Greenhouse Plants, in
i flower.— 1, J. Paterson ; 2, A. Paul.

i88i.] THE CALEDONIAN HORT. SOC. SHOW. 477

Two Stove or Greenhouse Plants, in
flower. — 1, C. Macfarlaue, ]\Ioreduu ; 2,
J. Shearer, Merchistou.

Three Cape Heaths, of sorts. — 1, J.
Paterson ; 2, C. Macfarlane.

Two Cape Heaths, pots not exceeding
9 inches. — J. Paterson.

Four Foliage Plants.— 1, R. M. Roid ;
2, R. Grieve, Falconhall.

Two Foliage Plants, pots not exceeding
9 inches. — 1, J. Paterson; 2, G. M'Lure,
Trinity Grove.

Six Plants for Table Decoration, 6-inch
pots. — 1, Mr M'Intyre ; 2, S. Graham,
Kilravock.

Two Dracaenas (colour). — 1, S. Graham ;
2, J. Robertson, Stirling.

Two Crotons. — 1, R. M. Reid ; 2, J.
Paterson.

Four Palms. — 1, S. Graham; 2, J.
Paterson.

One Palm, specimen, excluding Cycads.
— T. M' Donald, Grange.

Six Exotic Ferns, exclusive of Tree
Ferns.— A. Paul.

Three Exotic Ferns, pots not exceeding
9 inches. —1, R. Johnston, Woolmet ; 2,
J. Gumming, Grange.

Two Todeas. — ] , A. Anderson, Dal-
keith ; 2, R. Grieve.

One Adiantum Farleyense. — 1, J. Cur-
ror, Eskbank ; 2, S. Graham.

Four Adiantums, of sorts, excluding
Farleyense. — 1, J. Curror; 2, S. Graham.

Two Filmy Ferns (Trichomanes or Hy-
menophyllum) . — A. Anderson.

Tree Fern, stem not less than 3 feet.
— J. Curror.

Four British Ferns, distinct varieties.
— A. Anderson.

Eight Dwarf British Ferns, distinct
varieties (pots not exceedins; 6 inches). —

1, A. Anderson ; 2, D. D. Arnot, Kirk-
caldy ; 3, J. Gumming, Grange.

Two pots or pans Lycopodium, differ-
ent species. — 1, S. Graham ; 2, J. Cor-
sar, Linlithgow ; 3. J. Robertson, Stir-
ling.

One Hydrangea. — 1, A. Crichton, Cor-
storphine ; 2, Thos. Bowman, Lasswade.

Two Orchids.— 1, J. M'Leod, Stirling ;

2, A. Paul

One Orchid.— 1, J. M'Leod ; 2, J. Pat-
erson, Millbank ; 3, A. Paul.

Two Petunias. — 1, James Black, East
Calder ; 2, R. Johnston.

Two pots Vallota purpurea. — 1. Jas.
Stewart, Corstorphine ; 2, R. Johnston.

One pot Vallota purpurea. — 1, John
Leyden, Rosewell ; 2, R. Grieve.

One pot Eucharis Amazonica. — 1, John
Paterson ; 2, Jas. Stewart.

Three Tuberous Rooted Begonias,
named (open). — 1, Wm. Penn, Liberton ;
2. R. Johnston.

Two Fuchsias, of sorts. —1 , Jas. Walker,
Linlithgow ; 2, James Bald, Canaan
House.

Two Fuchsias, pots not exceeding 8
inches.- James Walker.

Two Cockscombs. ^1, John Elliot, Ben-
nington ; 2, S. Graham.

Two Balsams. —1, W. Dougal, Ferry
Road; 2, R. M. Reid.

Three Zonale or Plain-leaved Gerani-
ums, sorts, in potsnot exceeding 9 inches,
in bloom. — 1, James Richardson, Prest-
on field ; 2, S. Graham ; 3. J. Walker, Lin-
lithgow.

Three Variegated Geraniums, of sorts,
in bloom. — James Tvveedie, Portobello.

Three Bronze Geraniums, of sorts, in
bloom. — 1, James Tweedie ; 2, James
Walker; 3, James Richardson.

Three pots Liliums, of sorts. — 1, A.
Paul ; 2, S. Graham.

One pot Lilium auratum. — 1, J. Pater-
son ; 2, Colin M'Farlane, Moi-edun,

Ctct Flowers.

Twelve cut Roses, of sorts.— 1, Alex.
Hill Gray, Dunkeld ; 2, Jas. Stewart.

Twelve Gladioli, of sorts.— 1, William
Peun ; 2, R. Grieve.

Six Gladioli, of sorts.— 1, John Taylor,
Inveresk ; 2, Wm. Holm, Foxball.

Twelve Quilled Asters, of sorts. — 1,
Thos. Menzies; 2, John Wood, Ferry
Road.

Twelve Chrysanthemum-flowered As-
ters, of sorts. — 1, Thos. Menzies ; 2, Wm.
Penn.

Four Phloxes, of sorts. — 1, Ewan Cam-
eron, Mofi'at ; 2, John Matheson, Lass-
wade; 3. J. Pearson, Corstorphine.

Five Spikes Hollyhocks, of sorts. — 1,
J. Pearson ; 2, R. Johnston.

Twelve Hollyhock Blooms, of sorts. —
R. Johnston.

Six Hollyhock Blooms, of sorts. — 1,
W. Henderson, Polmont ; 2, J. Pearson.

Twelve Dahlia Blooms, of sorts. — 1,
James Walker, Linlithgow ; 2, D. Lornie,
Ratho ; 3, Jas. Black.

Six Dahlia Blooms, of sorts. — 1, James
Black ; 2, John Stewart, Catherine Bank.

Twelve Fancy Dahlia Blooms, sorts. —
Jas. Black.

Six Fancy Dahlia Blooms, sorts. — 1,
John Stewart ; 2, Jas. Walker.

Four East Lothian Intermediate Stocks,
four sorts— 1, John Wood; 2, Charles
Smith, Restalrig,

Twelve varieties of Zonale Geraniums,
three trusses of each sort. — 1, John Gum-
ming, Edinburgh ; 2, John Matheson,
Lasswade.

Twelve Trusses of Verbenas, three of
each, not less than six varieties. — 1, Hugh
Watson, Stirling ; 2, John Stewart.

Centrepiece of Cut Flowers and Foliage
for Dinner-Table Decoration. — George
M'Lure, Trinity Grove.

One Hand Bouquet. —1. Thos. Bow-
man, Lasswade; 2, Geo. M'Lure.

478

THE GARDENER.

[Oct.

Class III.— Nurserymen.

Four Palms. — Downie & Laird, Edin.

Twenty-four Dahlia Blooms, of sorts, —
Downie k Laird.

Twelve Fancy Dahlia Blooms, of sorts.
— Downie & Laird,

Ttiirty Gladioli, not more than two of
a sort. — Downie & Laird.

Twenty-four Cut lioses. — 1, Cocker &
Sons, Aberdeen ; 2. W. H. Dickson, Bal-
mont.

Class IV. — Gardeners and Amateurs.

Collection of Vegetables, twelve sorts,
for market - gardeners only. — 1, John
Milne, London Road ; 2. Robert Black,
Liberton Mains.

Collection of Vegetables, twelve sorts,
excluding market-gardeners. — 1, James
Brown, CrieflE"; 2, Gideon Potter, North
Berwick.

Two Cucumbers. — 1, James Brown ; 2,
J. Shearer, Craigroyston.

Four Cauliflowers. — 1, J. Lament,
Alloa ; 2, James Brown.

Two Stalks Brussels Sprouts. — 1, John
Robertson, Stirling; 2, A. Dunlop, Canaan
Lane.

Four Stalks Celery. —1, James Brown ;
2, Gideon Potter.

Four Beetroots. — 1, J. Richardson,
Prestonfield ; 2, Jas. King, Gorebridge.

Six Leeks. — 1, MrM'Kelvie; 2, James
Brown.

Twelve Tomatoes. — 1, Mr M'Kinnon,
Scoue; 2, Mr M'Intyre.

Four Savoys. — 1, A. M'Leod, Blind
Asylum ; 2, Thomas Bowman, Lass-
wade.

Twelve Onions. — 1, Wm. Williamson,
Tarvit ; 2, Mr Murray, Maybole.

Two Pots of Parsley. — 1, D. Marshall,
Saughton ; 2, John Robertson.

Six Lettuce. —1, Thos. Bowman; 2,
Alex. Crichton, Corstorphine.

Twelve Sorts of Potatoes, twelve of
each (open to all). — 1, Mr M'Kinnon ;
2, Andrew Lornie, Cockburnspath ; 3,
Gideon Potter.

Collection of Salads (open to all). —
Thos. Bowman.

©aUntran

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — Fruit that ripens this
mouth should not be so freely wa-
tered as those that ripen in summer,
especially should the weather be wet
andsualess; andtheatmosphereshould
also be less moist. Those that are
swelling oif should have a moist at-
mosphere, and be steadily supplied
with manure and guano water alter-
nately, sufficient to keep the soil
moist, but not sloppy. Range the
night - temperature for these at 70°,
a few degrees more or less being of
little moment, according as the wea-
ther may be colder or warmer. The
bottom-heat should not exceed 90" nor
fall below 85° ; shiat up every after-
noon with sun-heat when it is avail-
able, so as to run the temperature up
to 80° or 85° for a time, giving the
plants a syringing about their collars
and over the leaves, but missing the
crowns. October is an excellent month
for swelling-off Pines, for the houses
can be shut up with a considerable

amount of sun-heat, without any risk
of injury. Queens intended to stare
early into fruit will now be in a
well - matured condition, and must
be kept in a comparative state of
rest for the next three months. Drop
the temperature to 60° at night by
the end of the month, and the bot-
tom-heat should not be more than 75°.
If the pots are plunged to the rim in
moist tan, very little or no water will
be required by the end of the month ;
but if plunged in a shallow layer of
any material over hot-water pipes,
watering will have to be carefully
seen to, or the plants may suffer
from over-dryness. Batches of plants
to farm a succession to these early
Queens should be kept growing up to
the end of the month, and should have
a few degrees more heat and more
moisture ; but this must not be car-
ried to anything like excess, or the
plants will draw, now that the days
are shortening and the light less in-

CALENDAR.

479

tense. Suckers potted in August and
early part of September will now grow
freely, and must be carefully venti-
lated and watered, to prevent a soft
sappy growth. After the middle of
the month the temperature should
range from 60° to 65°, and air should
be given when the heat touches 70°.
The bottom - heat for these will do
quite well at 80°. Should there be any
fear of the largest suckers getting pot-
bound by February, let such be shift-
ed into 10 -inch pots at once, and
plunged thinly in a light pit near
the glass, and they will make a nice
batch for starting next July. Any
strong suckers on plants now swelling-
off fruits should be taken off, and pot-
ted in 6-inch pots. Drain the pots
well, and use a light fibry loam. Now
is a good time to collect soil for next
season's potting.

Vines. — It is to be feared that many
Vines in Scotland, owing to the very
cold sunless summer, may not be so
well ripened as they should be. Where
such is the case they should be sub-
jected to more or less tire-heat, and a
circulation of air according to their
condition. This of course applies to
such Vines as the Grapes are all cut
from. If not already attended to,
every superfluous lateral should be
taken off, so that light and air can
have free access to the wood and
main leaves while there is a chance of
sunshine. All Grapes intended to
keep through the winter should now
be perfectly ripe, and if they are not
so, the ripening should be assisted with
fire-heat. Look over all Grapes that
have been ripe for some time, at inter-
vals of a few days, and remove every
shrivelled, or mouldy berry as it ap-
pears. Keep everything about them
dry, and ventilate freely, except in very
damp weather. Vines planted this
year, and that have grown strongly and
been allowed to make a rambling lat-
eral growth, should be slightly pruned
to let light and air about all the growths
that are likely to ripen properly under
the influence of fire-heat and a free
circulation of air. Vines from wiiich
Grapes are to be ripened early next
year should be pruned as soon as the
leaves drop, and should be prepared
in the usual way for starting at the
})roper time. If any portion of their
roots is in an outside border, let it

be covered up at once with dry litter,
to conserve the natural heat that is
in the soil. All mulchings of manure
that have been laid on borders in the
course of the season to nourish the
crops should be removed early this
month, and a dressing of bone-meal be
forked into the surface of the border,
which should lie uncovered to receive
the sweetening influence of the air till
the approach of frost. Every Vine-
border should be so exposed for a
period every year. If pot- Vines in-
tended for early forcing have been
standing outdoors, remove them to
some place where they can be pro-
tected from heavy rains.

Peaches. — If new borders and fresh
plantations of trees be intended, get
everything in readiness for planting, as
soon as the trees have shed their
leaves. To produce fine Peach-trees
and fruit, the soil should be a rather
strong loam, 2 feet in depth and
thoroughly drained, and having no
manure added to it except some bones.
Apply fire-heat to all Peach-trees that
are not likely to ripen well before they
shed their leaves, and syringe the
leaves occasionally on fine days to
prevent the spread of red-spider, which
thrives so well on fire-heat. On the
other hand, let earlier and well-
ripened trees be kept cool and well
aired. See that borders inside do not
get dry. Any fruit yet to gather
should be well exposed to light and
air.

Figs. — Generally speaking, all Figs
are gathered by the end of this month ;
but where any are to ripen they
should have fire-heat applied, or they
will not be good. All wood not re-
quired to furnish the tree properly
should be removed at once ; but when
disbudding has been duly attended to,
there will be very little that it is not
necessary to retain. Early plants in
pots should now be protected from
excessive rains, and watch inside bor-
ders, keeping them in a medium state
of moisture.

Melons. — Late crops will now re-
quire more assistance from fire-heat,
and the temperature should be 70°,
and when ripening, warmth and dry-
ness of atmosphere are indispensable
to the development of flavour; and

480

THE GARDENER.

[Oct.

wliile the plants must not be allowed
to sulfer for want of water, it requires
to be supplied in much less quantity.
Melons ripening this month can be
kept longer in good condition than in
summer.

Cucumbers. — Keep the tempera-
ture a little over 70°. Give air early
in the day, and sh\it early to husband
sun-heat, and lessen the moisture in
the soil and air as the days shorten,
but avoid an arid state of the atmo-
sphere. Where the roots are near to
hot- water pipes, mulch the surface
with some old mushroom-bed manure,
and be careful that no check arises

from over-dryness. Stop young grow-
ing plants at every joint, and do not
let the foliage become crowded nor
the j)lants bear too freely until well
established.

Strawberries in Pots.— These should
now have thoroughly filled their pots
with roots, and have strong promi-
nent crowns. If very wet weather
occurs for any length of time lay the
pots on their sides, and should any of
the plants be too late, remove them to
cold frames and put glass over them,
keeping them near the glass and freely
aired, to get their growth more ma-
tured than could be in the open air.

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

The season has now arrived when
practical men turn their attention to
renovation and improvement of their
gardens. It is well to note the weak
points, and find out the best remedies
to strengthen such. If it is the ab-
sence of sound drainage, it may have
attention at earliest convenience : this
is too often looked upon as a rem-
edy for evils which a proper system
of deep cultivation would abolish.
When land of a tenacious character
is turned over shallow and careless,
the crops, whatever they are, root
quickly through this to the hard bot-
tom, through which they cannot pene-
trate ; rain rests there till it has had
time to percolate into any crevice or
crack which affords an outlet. When
drought sets in, plants are then baked
in the shallow surface, and either
shrivel up or become the victims of
mildew or vermin. It may be argued
that the bottom is so barren that if it
was turned to the surface nothing
could exist in it but weeds. With
such we have had to deal for a number
of years, and now we never had better
crops, and prepare the land by turn-
ing up a deep spade depth, and the
crumbs to the surface — then the bot-
tom is turned over as deep as a "graft-
ing" tool can move it (this tool is
something like a curved draining-
spade) ; the bottom layer being thus
prepared allows water to pass off
quickly, and roots of plants are also
safe from drought in dry seasons (such
as we experienced here during last
spring and early summer, when we

were nine or ten weeks with drying
winds and total absence of a single
shower). The bottom layer becomes
enriched, and in course of time may
be brought to the surface in small jiro-
portions to act as a purifier to the top
layer of soil. Light surfaces may
often be improved with an addition
of heavy soil worked into them ; and
heavy land is of course improved
by light sharp soil being mixed with
it. Preparations for crops to be plant-
ed this month (such as Cabbage, Let-
tuce, Batavian Endive, or any other)
should be thoroughly trenched, and
the manure placed evenly under tie
top spit. In spring, when growth
becomes active, the roots then run
greedily downwards away from drought.
Were this practice more general,
there would be less experience of the
evils of premature seeding of Cabbage.
Space does not allow us to give in-
stances of experiments we have tried,
which have, in every case, proved the
fallacy of shallow talk.

It is not uncommon at this season
to see gardens belonging to the ama-
teur class left in dishabille just as all
crops ceased to produce, and weeds
and decaying matter offending the
eye in every direction, A special
effort should be made to remove all
that is unsightly and useless : it may
be collected on any vacant space, cov-
ered with soil, and at the proper time
can be turned into the trenches ; or
where there is a proper rubbish-heap
(kept free from stones and sticks), all
vegetable matter can be rotted and

i88i.]

CALENDAR.

481

returned to the garden as manure.
Wood - ashes, road - scrapings, turf-
parings, or such material mixed with
this, are good for any kind of land.
Preparation for Cabbage may be made
now, and the plants, if plentiful, which
were pricked out to become strong,
may be planted a foot each way to
give a supply in spring by cutting out
every alternate plant for use, leaving
a full crop 2 feet apart on the ground
for main supply ; dust with ashes, fine-
ly sifted, and mixed with soot or lime,
over the whole surface of the ground
and round the collars of the plants, as
prevention of grubs, slugs, &c. A wa-
tering about twice with clear lime-
water generally prevents the destruc-
tion of roots by grubs. All growing
crops should be properly hoed, and
any decaying leaves cleared off as soon
as they are detected. Any crops re-
quiring thinning should have timely
attention. Spinach and Lettuce sown
where they are to remain till they are
used should be carefully thinned. The
thinnings of both, planted carefully in
suitable positions, make good succes-
sion to the earlier sowings. Plant
plenty of Brown Cos Lettuce, All the
Year Round, Brown Dutch, Hick's
Hardy, or Hardy Hammersmith, and
there is a likelihood of a plentiful
supply at the proper time. On ridges,
or by walls and hedges which give
shelter from north and east, are suit-
able positions. Batavian Endive is
very hardy, and when nicely blanch-
ed in spring is nutty and of most
agreeable flavour. Endive should be
somewhat thick on the ground where
frames are to he placed over the crops ;
and those plants which are ready for
use may be tied up to blanch, or
have slates laid over them to exclude
light and air. Asparagus -beds may
be cleaned ; if the "grass" is ripe it
should be cut within a few inches of the
surface of the soil. When the stems are
extra strong and not well ripened, it is
better to leave them above the soil,
as they are liable, when cut close, to
cause rotting at the crown. A cover-
ing with manure to the depth of 2
inches is beneficial as protection ; but
where the ground is low-lying and
damp, coverings which are likely to
hold water are dangerous to the plants
in severe weather. Channels to carry
off surface-water as quickly as pos-
sible may be made with much advan-

tage to the roots, and of course to next
season's supply of "grass." Beet,
Carrots, a few Parsnips for a short
supply, Salsafy, Scorzonera, Chicor^^',
and Dandelion roots may be lifted,
put in pits in dry positions, or stored
in cellars ; but all of these roots may
be kept in the ground covered with
ashes or litter, to be dug as required.
Many prefer Beet and Carrots fresh
dug from the ground : this is a mat-
ter of taste. We know they do not
keep well when dug up in full vigour
of growth at top and bottom. Cauli-
flower may now be turning in plenti-
fully, and can be lifted to a shed or
behind a wall to be kept back. Sud-
den changes to frost must be watched,
which would probably do much dam-
age to Cauliflower turning into use,
as well as other things. Cauliflower
plants may be planted under hand-
lights and other protection to stand
the winter. A frame full of young
plants now would be of much value
in March if well cared for ; but they
should have all the light and air pos-
sible— only kept under the lights when
the weather is very severe and when
rains are very heavy. The shelter of
a wall or hedge from north and east
is always a good position for young
plants to stand the winter.

The earthing-up of Celery is now an
important matter, and pains should
be taken to keep the hearts free from
the soil ; a slight tie with matting or
some other material (which would
soon waste after the earthing-up was
done with) is advantageous. Leeks
grown as Celery plants may be done
in a similar manner. Onions should
now be stored, if not already done — a
quantity of the best which are wanted
to keep till May should be selected.
Those which are firm, solid, and
extra small at necks are the best.
They can be tied into bunches or to
sticks, and hung up in an open,
thoroughly dry shed. Plenty of dry
cool air is what suits them. If spread
on floors they should be kept thin and
free from any refuse. Winter Onions
should be well hoed, but not to inter-
fere with their roots. Weeds or litter
should have no place among the crop.
Parsley should be trimmed slightly,
if not done in August and September,
"Rogues" (as market-men call the
coarse worthless kinds) should be pulled
oat, in order that the plants may be stiff

482

THE GARDENER.

[Oct. i88i.

in growth and well hardened to stand
against severe frost. Potato-lifting
should be finished as early as circum-
stances will allow. They keep always
well in Potato-pits, placed where water
will not harbour about them. Dry
airy shelves suit well for stock to be
saved for planting. They should be
separated from those which are for
domestic use. Vegetable forcing will
have already commenced in well-
appointed gardens. French Beans
coming into flower should have liberal
supplies of air and all the light pos-
sible. Plant successions every fort-
night, always being guided by the
demand and means to grow them :
heat about C0° at night suits them,
with a rise of sun-heat, Seakale and
Rhubarb may now be placed in heat,

the former kept close from air, As-
])aragus may be lifted when ready
and placed on a bed or warm leaves
about 70" to 80°, and covered with
light rich soil, watered when dry,
and when the produce is in full
growth give y»]enty of light and air.
Carrots may again be sown in frames
when they are wanted young. They
do best in light sandy loam. They
must not be coddled for want of air.
Mushrooms may be abundant now.
They require little attention at this
season out of doors, further than a soft
covering of litter : make beds often,
using good manure not exhausted.
Tomatoes in bearing under glass may
be treated as those outside : allow
them plenty of light and air.

M. T.

Notices fcr C0iTcsp0ntrcnts»

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in the ' Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We
decline noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and
address of writer.

Subscriber. — 1. Asplenium demorphum ; 2. Pteris longifolia; 3. Cannot
recognise ; 4. Lycopodium or Selaginella Wildenova ; 5. Blechnum spicant ;
6, Rheedia glaucescens ; 7. a Cystis, but not beiD-^ in bloom cannot say
which; 8. Centradenia rosea ; 9. Pteris tricolor; 10, Adiantum cuneatum.

E RRA T A.

In our report of the Stirling Show, Mr Daniel Kennedy informs us that he,
and not Mr Liddell, was first for Black Currants.

Mr Ferguson, Blackford Park, Edinburgh, informs us that his late brother
planted the large vine at Speddock in 1840, so that it is not so old as repre-
sented in our September issue.

THE

GARDENER.

NOVEMBER 1881.

LOW TEMPERATURES FOR MUSCAT GRAPES.

N" last month's ' Gardener ' Mr Simpson takes exception to
an incidental remark of ours, in the August number, on
setting Muscat Grapes. He characterises our remark as
" exceptional and damaging testimony " against his advo-
cacy of setting Muscats at a temperature of 50°. We
want, in the first place, to assure Mr Simpson that we have not the
most faint desire to rob him of any credit that may belong to him for
the advocacy of this or any other practice. If our practice and ex-
perience, and the results thereof, have been different from Mr Simp-
son's, we cannot very well help that ; and our practice in several other
matters connected with Grape-growing is not in accordance with Mr
Simpson's teachings.

The setting of Muscats is certainly a question of experience, but it
is something more, — it is a physiological question as well. And if Mr
Simpson expects us to believe that his successful setting of Muscats is
the direct result of a night-temperature of 50°, we must believe it on
the faith of his, and in spite of our own, experience and observation.

Whether intentionally or not, Mr Simpson does not say to what
degree he runs up the heat of his Muscat-house for the greater portion
of the twenty-four hours with fire and sun heat. We suspect that the
setting of his Muscats, as in the case of other growers, is depend-
ent on having their pollen developed by the higher temperature and
drier air of the day, and not by the damp air and temperature of 50^
at night, for it is contrary to facts and physiology to think that it can
be otherwise. We here appeal to the rank and file of those who have
been most successful in producing really good Muscat Grapes, if it is
not when the temperature is 70° to 75°, and not very damp, that Muscat

2 I

484 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

pollen appears in most abundance, and that the berries set best. Per-
haps, when we know all, it will be found that Mr Simpson thus runs
up the heat of his vinery for the better half of the day ; and if we are
correct in our supposition, then the relationship of 50° to the setting
of his Muscats will appear in its true light.

It has been our experience in a long practice under divers circum-
stances, that Muscats have, without an exception that we can remember,
set best when they have been subject to a high temperature for the
greater part of the twenty-four hours. Not only so, but they have
always set best at the hottest end of tlie vinery and nearest the pipes,
as in the case of J. W. B., related in the ' Gardener' of last month. It
would be interesting to know how Mr Simpson manages always to get
his temperature down to 50° after a warm day and the application of
fire-heat in May. We cannot do it, practising much farther north. We
presume, from the condition of his Grapes about the middle of Sep-
tember, that his Vines are not more advanced than in bloom in May.

Not to go any further back in our experience, we had a house of
Muscats in bloom last May, when the weather was exceptionally cold
and sunless, — circumstances under which we think it best to force more
gently. Those at the warm end of the house set perfectly, while three
rods at the exposed gable and cold end set so ver}"- imperfectly that
there were not sufficient impregnated berries to make up the bunches.
Will Mr Simpson explain the reason of this ? The Vines were the
same variety, and all their circumstances exactly the same, except that
the one was in a very much colder atmosphere than the other when in
bloom. What is the opinion of other Muscat-growers ?

We do not controvert the fact, that it is best for plants to treat them
to a lower temperature at night than by day. Nature leads the way
in this very forcibly ; and it has been practised and written about as
long back as we can remember — forty years at least. But nature does
not teach us that it is the damp cold air of night that develops the
pollen, and is directly to be credited with the setting process. We
learned this quite forty years since from Dr Lindley : " It will be
found that no pollen is scattered in cold weather, but in a sunny, dry,
warm morning the atmosphere surrounding plants is, in the impregnat-
ing season, filled with grains of pollen discharged by the anthers. In
wet weather the anthers are not sufficiently dried to shrivel and dis-
charge their contents," &c. Because of this there is nothing the Vine-
growers of France dread more than a wet, cold, sunless time when
their Vines are in bloom ; for the bunches, instead of flowering properly
and developing pollen, do what the Vine-growers call "run." De-
caisne refers to this fact in his work on botany, when treating of
physiology. It has long been well recognised that when the bunches
of Grapes have a tendency to be "wiry" and "run," that the best
way of checking this tendency is to keep them rather warmer and
drier instead of colder and damper. We have advocated compara-

1 88 1.] TOMATOES. 485

tively low night-temperature in hothouses a good many years ago, but
have never yet seen cause to alter our opinion or practice in setting
Muscats, and are as convinced that a rather high temperature for the
greater part of the twenty-four hours when the Vines are in bloom
secures the best set, as we are of anything connected with the practice
of horticulture.

All theory and practice are best tested by results ; and unless better
examples of Muscats are exhibited as grown on the very low tempera-
ture system than are produced under higher temperatures, the advocates
of a warmer temperature can well afford at least to wait.

More than thirty years ago we have seen splendid Muscat Grapes
ripened in August, and cut from the Vines plump and fresh on the IGth
of March. And these Vines, in spite of some very rough treatment,
are fine Vines at this date. We have for years in succession started
Muscats in February, ripened them to an unusually high colour before
the end of July, and cut them without a wrinkle from the Vines in the
end of February.

It is our opinion and conviction, founded on long practice and ob-
servation, that to make October, or even the end of September, the
finishing time of Grapes, and more especially Muscats, is one of the
greatest mistakes possible. Grapes, and especially Muscats, ripened
so late, cannot possibly be of such fine quality nor keep so well as when
ripened earlier under the influence of more sun. We once had a Lady
Downes Vine at the warm end of a Black Hamburg house, where the
fruit of the latter was ripened for using in July. The Lady Downes in
question ripened thoroughly in August, and the Grapes always kept
longer without signs of shrivelling and decay, and were better flavoured
than others ripened a month or six weeks later. And we appeal to suc-
cessful Grape-growers if Muscats do not always keep the longest in
good condition, and are in every point better, that ripen and colour per-
fectly before the middle of September. Few Grapes keep better than
perfectly ripened Muscats. Whoever attempts to ripen Muscats that
are green and unripe at the middle of September, must be in a very
favoured locality indeed if they accomplish their task without a con-
siderable expenditure of coal. Is this not so, ye Johnstons, ]\I'Kelvies,
Hunters, and Hammonds, and many others besides 1

TOMATOES.

It has been said that it pays better to grow Tomatoes and Cabbages
than Grapes. Whatever may be said about the Cabbages, I have a
strong impression that Tomatoes are at least a more certain and remu-
nerative crop, while they require only a tithe of the preparation and
care. That Tomatoes continue to grow every day in popularity and
in demand throughout the country, there can be no doubt, for the

48G THE GARDENER. [Nov.

demand appears only to be limited by the supply. Large quantities
are iaiported from France during the summer, but they are not of such
good quality as our home-grown fruit, and do not fetch such good
prices.

We grow Tomatoes here rather extensively, there being a demand
for them in the house all the year round if they are to be had ; and an
account of the results of the culture of a few plants, and the return in
the shape of fruit which they have yielded, may interest your readers.
We usually have a supply of fruit all the season through, or nearly ;
but this season we had none from January to April — about the end
of the latter month ; and it is an account of the production of our plants
from that time till now, 6th October, that I propose to give.

The earliest batch of plants was sown in January, and potted in 12-
inch pots firmly, and placed against the back-wall of one of the fruit-
houses. The second batch was sown in March, potted in 10-inch
pots, and placed in a similar position as soon as room could be found
for them. The two lots together amount to sixty plants, and occupy
a wall-space 55 feet long and about 12 feet high, being set in two rows,
one above the other. During the whole season we have supplied the
house demand from these plants, sending large quantities to London
twice a- week during the season ; but as these have only been entered
as " baskets " or " dishes," I cannot tell the weight, but it has been
very considerable. The last week in May we began disposing of
surplus fruit to a fruiterer in the nearest town, to whom, up to this
date, we have sold 413 lb. Up till 5th June we got Is. 6d. per lb.
for all we could send; from that date till 2d August, Is., and after-
wards 9d. and 6d., but the price will go up again soon. The total
amount received for the whole is £15, 7s. lid., and it will probably
reach ^20, for the plants are still growing and bearing heavily. We
usually grow the common red, which is the most productive we know.
The plants have been potted in rough loam and old mushroom-dung,
and have received plenty of strong liquid-manure every day. I sold
all the fruit to one man, and could not half nor quarter supply him.
We could have disposed of them by the ton in two or three towns
round about if we had had them, and they pay both the grower and
the retailer. In order to grow the Tomato profitably it must be
done well, like other things ; but what the plants need most are
abundance of light, a suitable temperature, and plenty of food. Very
little attention otherwise is needed. Bands of string are run along
the wall, to which the plants are tied, rough-and-ready fashion, and
they are allowed to grow as much as they will. In pots they do not
require much pruning. Planted out, I have had them more than 12
feet high, but they did not bear better than plants half that height in
pots, which take up just half the room. They do uncommonly well in
common wooden frames, but they should be heated, for the sake of
getting the plants forward in spring, and into a bearing state as soon

i88i.] LYCASTE SKINNERIL 487

as possible. In such frames they do just as well as on a wall, if the
branches are trained over a layer of old Pea-sticks, or something of that
kind. A house or pit, that could be built for perhaps ^'100, 1 estimate,
would .produce nigh upon £100 worth of fruit in the season, and one
man could attend to a number of such houses. One year I saw a num-
ber of plants in a nursery near Manchester, that were being prepared
for winter forcing, as the price expected then was 2s. 6d. per lb. ; but
the most profitable season to grow them is during spring, summer, and
autumn : during the dark days of winter they do not bear abundantly
enough to pay. J. S. W.

[There can be no doubt that many who are now marketing second
and third rate Grapes would make more money by devoting their glass
to Tomatoes, which are only beginning to be relished, for it is only
really first-class Grapes that pay now; and Tomatoes are so much more
easily managed, that where first-class Grapes cannot be grown, almost
any one, as J. S. W. says, can produce good crops of Tomatoes. — Ed. J

LYCASTE SKIWK"EIIII.

Wheee really refined flowers are in request, it is found that it " pays "
to grow a good many kinds of Orchids. Masses of Dendrobium nobile,
Coelogyne cristata, Lycaste Skinnerii, and a great many more, pro-
duce flowers in quantities of an extremely valuable kind during
winter when flowers of any kind are scarce and most appreciated ; and
not only so, but those of most kinds will last for a very long time
compared with others. Roses, Eucharis, Lily of the Valley, &c.,
may be as beautiful and as acceptable as the Orchids named, indeed,
must be ; but how very fugitive they are compared with Lycaste
Skinnerii, or Dendrobium nobile, the flowers of which last for weeks
and even months ! Even the old Cypripedium insigne is by no means
to be despised; and then, how long the bloom of it lasts in perfection !
We have known them put into glasses, kept there for a week or two,
thrown out among other waste flowers, gathered out of the dust-bin,
kept a fortnight, sent in again, and last another fortnight ! But for
the bad usage they got there is no reason why they should not have
lasted a month longer than they did.

Few Orchid flowers, or flowers of anything else, keep better or longer
than the great waxy flowers of the glorious Lycaste Skinnerii, and
few are more easily grown. The plants are cheap : a dozen of nice
healthy ones of ordinary kinds may be had for i,'4 or £b, which will
be worth £50 or i*60 in the space of a dozen years, if well managed.
Then the ynire white kinds are to be had for from £b to £bO each,
and in good hands these will prove a really good investment; for, when
growing freely, they every now and again, at by no means unreason-

488 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

able periods, double their number of "leads," and, of course, their value.
So, while reaping a rich harvest of sumptuous flowers, abundant enougli
to pay for labour, coal, and house-room, the original sum will be still
there and acquiring interest. Of how many i)lants coald this be said ?
Labour, coal, interest in money invested, and all, generally find an
annual deposit in the dunghill in the case of nine-tenths of the plants
grown for furnishing cut-flowers. " The end thereof " is worth con-
sidering.

Lycaste Skinnerii grows best in a cool Orchid-house — that is, a house
kept just a little warmer in cold weather than an ordinary greenhouse.
In summer, at least during hot clear weather, a greenhouse would be
too hot and the air too dry. The air for this and all cool Orchids
must be moist. In the absence of a regularly appointed Orchid-house,
a temperate fernery, such as exists about many places, large and small,
will do very well. The plant will even do in a stove, but it does not
flourish there as in a cooler house.

Many writers recommend fibry peat for growing it in — we recom-
mend clean fresh sphagnum and charcoal only. Having fairly tried
both, we have made up our minds that so long as clean fresh sphagnum
is to be had, not a particle of peat will ever be used again by us for
Lycaste Skinnerii.

It is generally over-potted — but most Orchids are. A six-inch pot is
big enough for a strong plant with three or even four seeds, although
many growers would put such a plant into at least an eight-inch one.
It is a great mistake. Orchids never thrive so well as when the pots
in which they grow are crowded with roots. This is especially true of
those that require to be kept constantly moist, and Lycaste Skinnerii
is decidedly thirst}^

In potting plants of the size we have named, six-inch pots should
have about an inch and a half of broken charcoal put into the bottom
for drainage. The rest of the pot is to be filled with charcoal and
fresh moss (half-and-half) and roots. Through this the water will rush,
and everything will be kept clean and sweet. Cleanness and sweetness
in the soil and in the air are the two main features necessary in Orchid
growing. Happy is the man whose circumstances allow him to secure
these points !

In turning plants out of the old pots — an operation which should
never be done when they are thriving and the potting material
sweet, even although it should be all roots — take care not to tear off'
the points of the growing roots, and leave them sticking to the sides
of the old pots. After it is out, carefully wash away all earthy and
decaying matter, and cut clean away any dead roots. In re-potting,
do not crush the remaining roots all into one corner, but arrange them
regularly among the new material ; nor crush the sphagnum into wet
lumps either, but press the whole together pretty firmly. If too loose,
it will hold too much water and turn sour. Have the whole a little

i88i.] . NOTES. 489

higher in the pot than it is ultimately to be ; and, in finishing off,
work the whole down pretty solidly. Finish with short growing
sphagnum, and keep it growing by occasional dewings until fairly
established. Dead moss covered with filthy slime looks bad, and kills
the roots as they push from the base of the bulbs, which should stand
an inch or more above the rim of the pot and just clear of the moss.
When the moss is growing the roots enter it readily, and thrive in it.
Potting should be done just as the young growths appear from the
base of the old bulbs in spring.

After potting, the material in the pots must be kept just moist
and no more, until it is fairly occupied with roots ; then water may be
liberally given. After one-third of the whole material in the pot is
roots, healthy and hungry, give once a-week a little very weak manure-
water, and your plants will make up great grand bulbs, throw at
least half-a-dozen flowers each, break double; and your Orchid-growing
friends who believe in peat, big pots, and only clear water, will declare
you have grand varieties.

Scale sometimes attempts the colonisation of the leaves. Soapy
water and a sponge will exterminate it. In hot weather a dash with
the syringe will do good ; but try when the air outside is dry to
keep that inside moist by sprinkling plenty of water about three times
a-day. Shade from bright sun, and never let the plants get dry. The
"drying-off '' of cool Orchids, as sometimes practised, is ruinous.

A. H., H.

NOTES.

A GOOD Dendrobium just now in flower is D. formosum giganteum,
with its great ivory-white flowers almost lily-like in size and purity,
the only bit of colour being a broad blotch of orange -yellow on the
lip. I saw this in first-rate condition at Loxf ord Hall the other day, the
plants being grown in wood baskets, suspended from the roof of a
warm Orchid-house. The great blossoms are valuable for cutting, and
if left upon the parent plant in a suitable atmosphere they will en-
dure for a month or six weeks quite fresh and perfect. D. chrysotis,
another good kind, is quite distinct, bearing five to nine golden-yellow
flowers on a drooping spike, the elegantly fringed lip being a great
ornament to the flower.

Yanda ca3rulea is one of the choice and popular Orchids now im-
ported by the hundred every year ; and yet how rarely is a really good
and perfectly healthy plant to be met with in our collections ! It flowers
very freely if it has been grown well. The difhculty in this matter is
to induce free and healthy growth. It is one of the hill Orchids of
India, which will endure a great range of temperature. I find a warm
Cattleya-house suits it best, being particular to leave a ventilator quite

400 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

near to the plants open night and day, except in the most severe
weather. If potted, the compost of charcoal, crocks, and sphagnum
cannot be too loose and open ; but I find it succeeds best upon a
shallow raft of hard thorn or elder-wood. It delights to twine its
great thick roots on timber, or to shoot them out into the genial moist
atmosphere.

There has been a good deal written, at one time or other, concerning
the "resting" and "drying off" of orchidaceous fjlants, and there are
some species which will not succeed for long unless so treated. Plei-
ones and Calanthes are examples ; but there is a large proportion of
species that do not require — even although they may withstand— a
period of absolute repose. It is more to the point to grow Orchids in
small, light, span-roofed houses, where they may occupy positions near
to the glass, and so obtain full advantage of sunlight and air. Plants
so grown flower freely without any of that " resting " or " ripening "
process to which the Orchid-growers of the past attached so much mys-
tery. Give Orchids plenty of sunlight, air, and moisture, especially
atmospheric moisture, and abundance of flowers will be the result.

Of good hardy flowers for October there is no scarcity. The best
just now are Primula capitata, bearing dense purple flower-heads on
long stalks. Rudbeckia Newmanni is producing its black-eyed, golden,
daisy-like flowers in abundance ; so also is the purple-flow^ered Senecio
pulcher. Tritomas contrast boldly with the silvery plumes of Pampas-
grass and late-planted Lilium auratums, and specimens are still gay and
showy. Eryngium amethystinum is still effective ; so also are single
Dahlias and Michaelmas Daisies (Asters). Aster laevis is one of the
best now, forming a dense mass of nearly blue flowers, each the size of a
shilling. How comes it that the golden Jasminum nudicaule is flower-
ing thus early? (Oct. 11th.) Summer-flowering Chrysanthemums are
yet gay. Of all perennial Sunflowers, the finest is Helianthus multi-
norus simplex maximus (Parker), a noble plant now bearing flowers
4 to 6 inches in diameter, and of a fine golden colour.

I was at Hampton Court the other day with some friends, and while
admiring the best portions of the carpet-bedding very much, I could not
help regretting the fact that hardy flowers are so wretchedly poor there.
And yet, in but few other gardens I just now remember are hardy
flowers more appropriate than at Hampton — an old English residence,
and one of the few palaces at which somewhat of the old-fashioned
pleasaunce still remains. The sunken gardens on the route to the old
'•penny wonder" (I mean the Vine, not the maze) were doubtless once
enlivened with the Daffodils, Carnations, Rockets, Bears' Ears, and
other old English flowers, of which Parkinson speaks so knowingly
and so lovingly in his 'Paradise." He would be a wise man in his

i88i.] NOTES. 491

tiaie who, possessing an old-fashioned garden like that at Hampton
Court, could rise to the occasion, and fill it well and boldly with
equally interesting and appropriate old-fashioned hardy flowers.

Anthurium Andreanum in reality is, after all, a far finer and more
effective plant than either drawings or descriptions have yet led us to
believe. I saw many plants of it in brilliant array of many spathes
some few days ago, and shall not forget the sight. Originally discovered
by M. Triana, the honour of introducing it alive to Europe for the
first time remains to Mr Ed. Andre. The brilliancy of the sculptured
spathe as seen in the sunlight is wonderful, quite putting Schertzer's
plant into the shade, while its spathes endure for ten or twelve weeks
in perfection. In " another place " I saw a marvellous variety of this
plant amongst a mass of Orchids in bloom. The effect of it was won-
derful, its scarlet effulgence heightened by contrast with the great
snowy flowers of Dendrobium formosum giganteum, Odontoglossum
Alexandras, and the drooping sprays of Oncidium Rogersi, and other
choice species.

Second only in value to the pearly Eucharis are Pancratium fra-
grans and rotatum, and their near ally Hymenocallis macroste-
phana. All are most valuable for choice white flowers during the
autumnal months, and when once well established, no plants can
possibly be easier to cultivate and bloom. Of the same class and
culture is Urceolina pendula, with its gracefully drooping golden
bells, and just now very freely produced. So much for the stove.
For the conservatory or greenhouse few plants can rival the old
and well-known Valotta purpurea when well grown. The great
secret with all bulbous plants of this class is to grow them on until the
pots are filled with bulbs and roots, after which time the plants may
be judiciously assisted when growing by an occasional allowance of
liquid manure, or a handful or two of soot, guano, and bone-meal, well
mixed together with a little potting soil.

A plant introduced years ago with a great flourish of big trumpets
is now very rarely seen. I allude to the fruiting Myrtle, Eugenia
ugni. It produces its black-currant-like fruits very freely ; and by
some its Strawberry-like flavour, blended with a Pine-apple-like per-
fume, is much admired. It is well worth a place in a cool conservatory,
and may be grown in the open air during the summer months.

Calceolaria bicolor is a most effective old species when well grown.
I saw it in a cool greenhouse the other day at Mr Joad's of Wimbledon,
trained up a rafter, and admired its masses of yellow and white flowers.
The plant was growing in a deep border of light loamy soil. The annual
C. chelidonoides is, I find, much admired, although a weed on our

492 THE GARDENEK. [Nov.

sandy borders. It grows freely every year from self-sown seeds, and
forms a nice companion to similarly habited Linarias, especially for C.
maroccana, to which it is an etYective contrast.

One of the finest of fruiting shrubs I have seen this season is the
old Euonymus latifolius, the broad-leaved Spindle-tree. Crataegus
coccineus has also been very fine. Hollies are everywhere laden with
berries, yellow and red ; while one of the old Yew-trees at Hampton
was literally all aglow with berries. I saw a bush of the old " Tea-
tree," Lycium barbarum, the other day, bearing long racemes of vivid
scarlet berries — rather a novelty in its way, but most effective, as I
can testify. One of the best of all fruiting shrubs when seen in perfec-
tion, as sometimes near London, is the common blue Passion-flower
(P. CcBrulea). It blooms splendidly here, but we cannot get it to fruit.
Perhaps the age of the plants has something to do with the question, or
cross-fertilisation may be to some extent necessary. Its drooping egg-
shaped fruits are so showy that it is worth a little extra trouble in order
to be sure of having them.

ALLAMANDAS FOH AUTUMN AND WINTER.

Seldom are these plants grown for a display of their rich golden
flowers during the declining months of autumn and winter. Generally
they are to be seen in great profusion through the summer months,
when flower-shows abound, and are therefore largely cultivated by
exhibitors of flowering plants. These growers, in the majority of cases,
have their plants in good condition ; but in many gardens where
plants are not grown for exhibition purposes, it is difficult to find
much attention paid to Allamandas — in fact they are not generally
well cultivated. However profusely flowered and beautiful they may
appear when trained upon balloon trellises and staged for exhibition,
they cannot compete, when thus grown and trained, either for effective-
ness or beauty, with those grown as climbers under the roof of a plant-
stove. When well grown in this position, they by far surpass aiiy other
plant I have ever seen employed for the same purpose.

If the house in which Allamandas are grown is rather lofty, so much
the better, as the plants can be allowed to hang some of their shoots
down from the wire-work to which they are trained, and thus present
a more natural eff"ect. If the house is not sufficiently lofty to allow
the growths to suspend from the roof, they will not look stiff" if
trained to upright wires. The flower-shoots will grow fully 2 feet
in length and hang beneath the roof, thus presenting a natural
rather than a stiff appearance. Those who have never seen the roof
of a house literally covered with A. Wardleyana (Hendersonii) can-
not form any idea of the gorgeous and pleasing effect they produce.

iSSi.] ALLAMANDAS FOR AUTUMN & WINTER. 493

Only a poor conception can be formed of the capabilities of this plant
to produce a striking picture, when grown and trained upon a 4 or 5
feet trellis.

Allamandas bloom fully eight months out of the twelve, and a
solitary plant, if well and judiciously -grown, will produce flowers over
that period of time. With about three plants, started at different
times, it is not difficult to obtain a supply all the year round. If a
plant commences flowering in May, it will go on producing blooms until
after Christmas ; and if started a month or two later, it will of course
flower until February or March. One important point to be considered
is — those plants intended to bloom through the dark.days of winter
should not be allowed to commence blooming too early in the season.
They appear to become exhausted in producing quantities of flowers
in much less time during the sunless days of our winter than is the
case during summer ; and those that wish to achieve success should
make provision for this.

Some may suppose the flowers of Allamandas are of but little ser-
vice for cutting, except the entire stem bearing the flowers is severed
from the plant ; but they are invaluable, especially during autumn
and winter. Here the single flowers only are removed, with no wood
attached, and we pack hundreds in course of the season, and find they
travel well. For low dishes or vases, these flowers are graced with a
few fronds of Maidenhair Fern, intermixed with a few sprays of any
other flower that will contrast well and rise out lightly from the
ground of yellow.

Allamandas are easily propagated by means of cuttings at any season
of the year when young growing shoots can be obtained. If rooted at
once, a good and early start can be made the following year. They
should be inserted singly in small pots, and if plunged into bottom-
heat will quickly throw out a number of roots. When the roots reach
the sides of the pots they should be transferred into others, 6 inches in
diameter, and the one shoot allowed to extend until it reaches the
height where the roof commences. The young shoot should then be
pinched, in order to cause it to make two, which should be allowed to
extend in an upright direction until the end of the season. They must
be transferred into larger pots as they require it, until placed in 10-inch
ones, which are large enough for the first year. The young plants will,
if properly attended to, produce a few flowers during the season, and
make plants as strong as ordinary pot- Vines will do in a season from
eyes.

When the wood is well ripened, the plants must be brought to a
standstill and rested for a time, and then cut back, leaving each shoot
fully a yard in length. The shoots should be laid horizontally at the
base of the roof, after placing the plants in 12-inch pots. By this
means the shoots left will break growths from nearly every eye, which
should be trained upright, except the extreme shoot at either end.

494 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

which should be allowed to run in a horizontal direction as far as it is
thought prudent to prune the plant back to the following year. If
run about a yard on each side, and then allowed to go upright, the
foundation is laid the second season for a plant to furnish a space of
four yards of roof. The plants can be extended on this principle until
they fill the whole of one side of the house, or as far as it is necessary
to extend them. I filled the side of a span-roofed house, 40 feet long,
with three plants, the third season from striking the cuttings. Two
plants now occupy the space on each side of the house : one would
have covered it before now, but two are preferable if a continuous
supply of bloom is required. One plant can be retarded while the
other is pushed forward. By this system the house will not present
such a grand display as if the whole was literally covered with bloom
at one time. This is a matter for individual cultivators to determine,
according to their taste and circumstances.

The soil most suitable for Allamandas is rich loam, with a seventh of
manure or small bone-dust, and sufficient sand to make the whole por-
ous ; they require a rich soil to grow them well. In potting, the
pots should be well drained; the drainage being covered with a layer
of rotten manure before placing in any of the compost, which must be
pressed firmly into the pots. Allamandas require potting as firm as
it is possible, which causes the wood to be short -jointed, and the
quantity of bloom greater than if loosely potted. When the plants
are young, and are being grown on, they can be potted from time to
time without reducing the old ball. But when in pots sufficiently
large, and it is not necessary to increase the size, the ball can be
reduced to one-half, and placed back again into the same size of pot.
When placing plants in the same pots, sufficient room is left for a good
mulching of cow or other manure, when the pots are well filled with
roots. This assists the plants greatly, and the roots quickly
lay hold of it. It is wonderful what a large amount of growth
Allamandas will make in a 20 -inch pot. This size would be large
enough for a plant to grow in to cover the side of a house 40 feet long,
and have a distance to travel of 16 feet or more up the roof of the
house, and produce thousands of large blooms.

While growing, these plants require liberal supplies of water. At
first, after potting especially, when the roots have been considerably
reduced, they must be carefully watered, giving more as they develop
in growth. When they have to cover such a large space as alluded
to above, they will require, during hot weather, water at least three
times a-day. When the pots are full of roots, and have been top-
dressed, manure-water must be freely given every time the plants are
watered, or" the blooms soon diminish in size. Soot-water every alter-
nate watering is very beneficial to them : not only does it keep the
foliage a fine dark hue, but adds brilliancy to the flowers. Water
must gradually be withheld as the season for resting the plants ad-

t88t.] hints for amateurs. 495

varices, and while at rest they need no water. After resting, the balls
must be thoroughly soaked in tepid water in a tank, and be allowed
to drain well before potting.

In bringing Allamandas to rest, the wood is generally well ripened
at the bottom if pruned as I shall describe. When the plants have
finished blooming and have been sparingly watered for about a week,
they are allowed to go dry until the foliage flags, then a little water is
given, but not sufficient to thoroughly soak them. If they are well
checked at the first attempt they are soon brought to rest, and no
harm results from the sudden change if the wood is quite ripe. After
this, sufficient water only is given to keep the wood from shrivelling.
The plants are then partially pruned back, cutting away all the unripe
wood ; no more water being given until the balls are soaked ready for
potting. Allamandas do not require such a long rest as many sup-
pose ; six or eight weeks are ample, and the plants are ready for
starting again.

The system of pruning I adopt is to treat Allamandas like Vines,
after the foundation is laid to cover the required space. The plants
are cut back to one or two eyes, and when pruned have only two
rods, similar in every respect to two Vine-rods pruned on the short-
spur system. The spurs can be as near or as far apart as cultivators
wish. At one time I trained a shoot up every wire, which was about
6 inches apart ; but this shaded the house too much for the other
plants growing beneath. The growths are now trained nearly 18
inches apart, and the flowers are much finer than when I trained up
more shoots.

Shade is beneficial to these plants for a few hours during very hot
weather; the flowers last longer and retain a brighter colour.

Insects never attack my plants ; but Allamandas are liable to be
attacked by a small yellow thrip, which is easily eradicated by freely
using the syringe.

When treated as described — both as to rest, pruning, and starting
sufficiently late — no plants are more easily bloomed profusely during
autumn, winter, and spring. Wm. Bardney.

HINTS FOR AMATEURS.

HARDY FRUITS.

Most cultivators prefer this season for the planting of fruit-trees and
bushes, and where it could not be performed by the end of October
the sooner it is in hand the better. It is well when one can go to the
nursery and pick out their own ; they see what they want, and can
choose it, and in most cases they get the same. Clean, healthy, young
trees we prefer to those stunted and cut back often : maiden trees, iu
the hands of those who can train them, answer all purposes well. Cut-

496 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

ting in severely young trees, without any real object in view, is a prac-
tice which should be one of the yiast. We have often covered walls
with trees which liad none of their leaders cut back, except when they
were growing grossly in summer : they were then stopped, and per-
haps the three or four laterals thrown out would be left to fill up the
space. Proper restriction at the roots (except in the case of large
orchard-trees) is far more preferable than cutting in branches. Where
planting is to be done, have the ground well trenched ; place brickbats
or stones immediately under the tree, to prevent roots running down-
wards. When roots get away from the influence of sun and air they soon
lead the tree to barrenness. Cut off any bruised or mutilated roots
clean ; lay all flat out, separating the fibres as much as possible ; work
among them some nice fresh loam, then fill all up, gently tread, and
place mulching neatly over the surface. Tie up the branches lightly to
the walls or fences to keep them safe from wind, and allow them to
remain unfastened permanently till the soil sinks to its minimum
level : much mischief is often done to the bark by being in a hurry
in tying up the branches to the walls. In orchards and open spaces
staking securely is of primary importance.

It is well (as we have formerly hinted) to learn something of the
kinds of fruits doing well in the localities where planting is to be
done : planting collections instead of selections often leads to disap-
pointment. Fruits do not always do well in every soil and locality.
Even in localities, influences of soil and other circumstances change
character as well as success. Pruning of bushes, Apples, Plums, Cherries,
and Pears, may be done as soon as the leaves are off. Pyramid Apples
and Pears, if well stopped and thinned during the summer months,
require little now, further than regulating what is intended for spurs.
There are two styles of Pyramids : one having all the fruiting spurs on
the outside of the tree, and the inside filled up with the strong permanent
wood ; the other has all the branches spurred from top to bottom,
outside and inside. Whichever plan is preferred, the safest method
is by restriction at the roots, that the spurs should be made to bristle
over every part of the tree. Look out for canker, and where it may
be seen let the tree be lifted and replanted, keeping the roots up, and
well mulched. Plums do with much the same treatment as Apples
and Pears, also Cherries, except Morellos, which do best with thinning
them, and leaving the wood full length ; but means, by lifting or root
restriction, should be used to prevent gross growth — short, stiff", spur-
like wood is always fruitful. The thinning of orchard trees or stand-
ards of moderate growth may be done as early as time will allow. We
have had such trees from the nurseries, which never had a knife on
them, planted with the shoots full length. The following year these
growths were knotted all over with spurs — fruit-bearing then becomes
certain. The same principle is adopted with Pears, Plums, Cherries,
&c., on walls as when grown as standards. Timely and skilful treat-

iS8t.] hints for amateurs. 497

ment in summer is half the battle ; absence of crowding, and healthy,
well-developed foliage, are points which are of importance. The best
system of training we do not know, as all ever we tried (other things
being equal) were attended by same results. Training may be done as
soon as opportunities afford : with fans the centre may be kept open,
and cut further back than the others, as side-shoots are not likely to
grow so strong as those which are more upright ; evenness of growth
must be studied if the tree is to be handsome and to cover the wall profit-
ably. Horizontal training is simple, and suits every tree well — Pears
and Peaches have been with us specially fine on trees trained thus — not
that we suppose training itself had anything to do with it, but this
we know, that the work on the trees required less than half the labour
of fan-trained trees. Upright or perpendicular training can be done
with two shoots, one taken right and the other left at bottom — say a
foot from the ground — and the upright shoots all start from these at
about 9 inches or 1 foot apart. I have frequently trained seven or
nine shoots on fans into perpendicular trees, which answered capitally.
We have had Peaches, Figs, and Cherries do well by this training, but
taste is the chief matter in this. Whatever system is adopted it should
be done well. Now is a good time to clear trees from moss, and white-
wash them with lime. Renovating old trees by clearing away the old
soil, and mulching them with good cow-manure, is a practice which
will pay itself in course of time. Dwarfed trees, which are a mass of
fruiting spurs, may have the same treatment as that advised for old
trees. Rasps may be shortened and tied to their stakes, or arched
over ; a good mulching is advantageous to them, also to established
Gooseberries and Currants after they are pruned. These may be
spurred, cutting out some old branches every year,' to be replaced by
young growths ; keep centres open, and leave the upright growths.
Black Currants may be regularly thinned all over, avoiding crowding
the shoots • top any which may be growing out of bounds. Suckers
from all fruit-trees and bushes should be cleared off closely : they ruin
the trees and bushes in course of time.

ORCHAKD-HOUSE.

In this structure trees will be at rest. If they are in pots they can
be packed closely at one end, and the space used for protection for
vegetables, such as Endive, Broccoli, Parsley, for use during severe
weather, &c. If such space is not required the trees may be trimmed,
cutting out all useless wood and any dead spurs. Put drainage right,
and paint the trees with soft-soap and sulphur mixed, or Gishurst's
Compound. If scale has appeared, a thorough washing of the parts may
be necessary : surfacing of the pots may be left later, as the trees
would not get the benefit of it in their present condition. Any trans-
planting or root-lifting of trees planted out not yet attended to, may
be done as early as possible. Walls may be whitewashed ; painting

498 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

can be done when weatlier is diy. We prefer doing the inside of sneh
houses when foliage is gone, and the outside in spring, except where
lights can be taken off altogether. In such cases the trees in pots can
be taken outside and plunged in ashes,

FLOWER-GARDEN.

Dahlias, Cannes, and other plants in danger of frost may be lifted
and placed in dry quarters free from frost. They can be gone over
some wet day and cleaned. If it is desirable to leave these in tlie
ground, means (by coverings of ashes or litter) should be taken to pre-
vent injury by frost. When Dahlias have been left in the ground they
come up with extra strength, and can be treated as if they were herba-
ceous plants.

Finish bulb -planting and other spring bedding- plants. Pratect
plants on walls, such as Myrtles, Fuchsias, &c., which are not really
hardy — one cannot forget the frost of last season, and how many were
caught napping. Fern, Spruce branches placed over a little straw,
or straw mats, are some of the useful means adopted as protection.
Bedding-plants should be looked over frequently ; avoid making their
roots sodden, but intense dryness is also an evil that should be
avoided. Pansies and Calceolarias, not made into cuttings where such
are wanted, may have attention without delay — a cool dry pit suits
both of these well. We often (in fact more or less every year) put
Pansies on an open border, but those which can have protection in
extra severe weather are best at planting-time. Piose-planting may
now have attention : deeply trenched and well manured ground suits
Eoses. If they are budded, or grafted close to the roots of the stocks
(which, is best), the junction should be buried when planted, and the
whole well mulched with farmyard manure. Turfing, gravelling walks,
destruction of weeds in lawns, turning walks, collecting leaves, and
repairing box or other edgings, are some of the items for consideration
at this season ; and the sooner they have attention the better. Tree
and shrub planting may be pushed forward without delay. Thinning
of trees may have attention at any time in the winter months ; as
the neglect of this means early ruin of shrubs and trees. Stake well
— or use ropes forming triangles round the stems of the trees, employ-
ing cloth or haybands to protect the bark.

PLANT-HOUSES.

At this season plenty of flowers are to be had ; the Chrysanthe-
mums being at their best, also Salvias of sorts ; Lobelia cardinalis,
which has been grown in pots for decorative purposes under glass,
Habrothamnus, Tea Roses, Tree Carnations, Winter Heaths, Camel-
lias forced in early season, Eupatoriums, Roman Hyacinths, Vallotas,
Violets in pots, Primulas, Coreas, some others. Where there is a mix-
ture of such plants, it is well, if possible, to place those which will hurt

i8Si.] GRF:ENH0USE plants. 499

by crowding near the ventilators — such as Heaths or other hard-
woods. Use fire-heat to expel damp, and keep out frost should it
come ; but at all times treat this as a necessary evil. Avoid cold cut-
ing winds ; keep all surfaces and foliage clean in the show-house ; see
that no plants are water-logged, and if the soil is hollow round the
collars it should be filled up, and the surface raised slightly next the
collars. Cinerarias, Calceolarias, and Primulas coming forward for
future decoration should be near the glass, have plenty of light, and be
judiciously aired and watered. Pelargoniums should not have damp
about them ; they are liable to spot. All bulbs should be potted, and
placed under tan or clean ashes till they spring an inch or so ; then
take them to light, giving plenty of air. Most kinds, especially Tulips
and Hyacinths, can be forced in batches as required. Get plenty of
sh'rubs and other plants into gentle warmth and moisture, to keep
up succession of flowers. Stove-plants, which have been previously
referred to, will now be well forw^ard, and should not be allowed to
remain in damp manure-pits. They are all valuable objects for deco-
ration during the short dark days, and ought to have the best of
attention. The general work in stoves differs little from last month.

M. T.

GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

NO. VIII. — THE ACACIA.

A GREAT number of species belonging to this genus are known to
botanists. Several are natives of tropical regions ; but those found
growing in the more temperate parts of Australia are, from a horti-
cultural point of view, the most valuable, and it is of them that we
would speak in this paper. Those Australian species with which
the writer is acquainted are all extremely handsome plants, both as
regards their habit or style of growth, and the graceful foliage they
bear. The foliage of some species, as, for instance, that of A. dealbata,
vies in graceful beauty with the fronds of most kinds of Adiantums or
Maidenhair Fern. Young plants of A. dealbata, of from 1 to 3 feet
liigh, are very useful and appropriate for room decoration. Another
species, with fern-like foliage, and equally suitable for the same pur-
pose, is A. lophantha. This latter species is a stronger grower, and
coarser in all its parts than the former. The two, however, have a
striking resemblance (especially their flowers) to each other.

A. pubescens, like the two former species, is furnished with bipin-
nate leaves, and is as desirable a plant to cultivate. All the Aus-
tralian species have yellow-coloured flowers— some being of an intense
golden colour, while others are of a pale lemon or canary colour.
Their shape difl'ers somewhat on different species : for instance, the
flowers of A. armata appear like little golden balls springing from the

2 K

.lOO THE GARDENER. [Nov.

axils of the leaves, while those of most other species resemble minia-
ture lemon-coloured bottle-brushes.

The various species of Acacia to which we are at present referring
are free-growing, easily managed plants; and seeing that this is the
case, and that they produce their Howers freely during the winter and
spring months in this country, it is somewhat strange that so few
of them are to be met with in general cultivation, especially when
we remember that in addition to their free-flowering habit they are
clothed, at least several of them, with very ornamental foliage that
renders them at all seasons, whether in bloom or otherwise, attractive
objects in whatever position they are placed,

A large healthy bush of A. armata when in full bloom during the
winter months is a very telling plant for conservatory decoration,
especially if arranged in combination with stately Palms such as
Kentia Australis or Seafortha elegans. Then A. Drummondii when in
flower is a real gem, and fit to occupy a place in any position where
flowering plants are admissible. This species is of a more slender and
twiggy growth than any of the others that w^e have mentioned ; and if
the cultivator keeps it in good health, and free from red-spider and
other insect pests or enemies, it will not fail to reward him with an
ample crop of flowers for his trouble and attention.

Another species, A. Eiccanna, deserves to be specially mentioned.
Its style of growth is distinct from that of any of the species men-
tioned. The branches, foliage, and flowers of this plant assume a
drooping position, that imparts to it a very pleasing and interesting
appearance at all seasons of the year. It succeeds admirably under
pot-culture, although I have heard the reverse stated ; and when
planted out in a prepared border, it is excellent for training on the
rafters of large conservatories or other cool glass structures of large
dimensions.

There are several other species that deserve to be mentioned, but
those already named are sufficient to direct attention to the at present
partially neglected genus Acacia, and I will now add a few notes of a
cultural kind.

Propagation. — Acacias may be increased by cuttings, layers, or by
grafting. By seeds, however, is the quickest and best method of pro-
pagating them. Seeds of most kinds can be obtained at a cheap rate
from any respectable house in the seed trade. If good, they germinate
quickly at any season of the year if placed in a bottom-heat of from
CO" to 70"". The best time, however, to sow them is in the months of
March and April. Before the seeds are sown it is advisable to soak
them for twelve or fourteen hours in water ; and if the water, at the
time they are put into it, is at a temperature of 100°, no harm but
good will follow.

The seeds should be covered about half an inch with the compost,
which should consist of sandy loam, and be pressed firmly on to them.

i88i.] THE FLOWER-GARDEN. 501

As soon as they are sown, give a good watering through a fine-rosed
watering-pot, and place the pots or pans containing tliem in a bottom-
heat as above indicated, and cover them with a bell-glass. In a
short time the young plants will appear, and as soon as they are fit
to handle, pot them separately into small pots, draining the latter
in a proper way, and using a compost similar to that in which the
seeds were sown. When the young plants have got their first shift from
the seed-pan, give them a good watering, and place them near to the
glass in a frame or pit, keeping the latter moist and the plants shaded
until their roots have taken hold of the fresh soil, which will be in a
few daj'^s. The shading should then be removed, and except in the
case of very bright sunshine, it need not be again applied. A constant
supply of fresh air should play about the plants during the summer
and autumn, and they should not at any season be allowed to suffer
for want of water at their roots.

If Acacias at any time get over dry at the roots, the foliage on the
lower parts of the plants turns yellow and falls off, thereby destroying
their beauty. Repotting should take place the first year as often as
the plants fill their pots with roots. It is not, how^ever, desirable to
continue the process after the first week of September ; and by this
time, if all has got on right, many of the plants raised from seed in
the spring will be of a useful size for taking part in the general decora-
tion of the establishment.

The second and future years once will be often enough to repot
the plants, and this should be done early in spring. When repotting
large plants of Acacias, use for a compost the best sandy loam pro-
curable, adding thereto at the time a good sprinkling of bone-meal.
Supply good drainage, and make the fresh compost firm in the pots
when the plants are repotted. An occasional application of manure-
w^ater during the summer season to the roots is beneficial to Acacias,
especially if they have their pots filled with roots, which is generally
the case w^hen the plants are large. During the summer season give
them a thorough washing occasionally with the syringe or water-
engine. This will keep red-spider and thrip under subjection, and
otherwise be of benefit to the plants.

If green-fly appear, fumigate in the usual way ; and if brown-scale
or mealy-bug infest the plants, use the latter for fuel, and set about
raising a fresh stock of plants from seed. J. Hammond.

THE FLOWER-GARDElSr. — A REVIE"W, WITH
SUGGESTIONS.

In those gardens where the old-fashioned style of bedding alone is
carried out, the season just past will have been a rather disappointing
one. In our own case we planted out extra-strong flowering plants of

502 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

Geraniums and other semi-tender bedders the first week of June, in
weather which, for its intense heat, had not been reached for many
years previously; and on the 10th of that month had frost which cut
down Tropreolums and damaged dwarf 'Ageratums ; and from then
till now, we cannot report having experienced any summer weather.
The behaviour of Coleus, Alternantheras, Zeas, and other tender plants,
put out at end of June, might very properly be characterised as a
continual state of uncertainty whether they should brave it out or
succumb at once. Coleus have had to be twice planted, and finally
to be replaced by a hardier substitute. Up till the memorable
week of the Edinburgh Review, the beds and borders were, notwith-
standing the cold weather, as satisfactory as could be desired : Cal-
ceolarias had been a mass of bloom for three months. Geraniums and
others effective for two, beds of mixed Geraniums and Violas from the
day the former had been planted out. Since that time no tender-
flowering plant has been effective, with the exception of dwarf Agera-
tum, which only gives in to frost. Calceolarias have been, perhaps,
quite gay enough, and the Geraniums we use for flowering alone (only
seven beds) have been about half this latter time without flower ; but
when kept clean, and the withered trusses removed, it is wonderful
how two or three days of dry weather brightens them up again. The
beds and borders planted with leaf-plants are quite as effective now as
they have been throughout the summer, and these alone would be a
good foil to the slight enforcement of greenery we have been obliged
to put up with. For hardy flowering plants this has been a good
autumn : in addition to the regular autumn bloomers, quantities of
those whose usual flowering season is early summer again coming into
flower now. Such very effective plants as Pentstemons and Phloxes
have continued without cessation, and are still throwing up fresh
flowering shoots. Double Pyrethrums, too, are flowering more freely
than I have ever before had them do the second time. Dahlias are
quite a host in themselves. Carnations and Picotees have continued
to throw up successions of flowers. Tritomas are just now in their
most flaming dress, early-flowering Chrysanthemums at their best,
and the pretty pink Sedum spectabile in its finest colour. We have
two 9-foot borders surrounded with grass, planted down the centre
with Tritomas, round which is run a band of white and red Dahlias,
planted alternately. A 2-foot band of Sedum spectabile comes next
the Dahlias, and an edging of variegated Dactyllis next the grass.
Looked at fifty or one hundred yards off, I don't know that it would be
easy to match this border at this season. Rougher in outline, but also
telling, is a border backed by a terrace wall. The plants here are
mixed, and consist of Tritomas, Single Dahlias, mostly all white.
Salvia fulgens and patens, with the reversion of Phloxes and Del-
phiniums, which had their duty to perform earlier in the season as the
main back plants ; and in front of these, patches, closely together, of

iSSi.] THE FLOWER -GARDE^r. 503

white Picotee and Duke of Wellington Carnation, Chrysanthemum
" Precocite," and " Alexander Pele/' Pentstemons, Antirrhinums, Mari-
golds, Gladiolus brenchlyensis, and CEnothera Lamarckiana planted
well to the front, are the plants which lend a character to this border.
Every half-foot of ground in a border like the above requires to be
filled to have effect, and every plant used for the purpose must be
selected to tell its tale. No other style of planting mixed borders
will ever do for gardeners to take in hand. In the kitchen-garden,
again, where the borders adjoining the principal walk are kept for
flowers, though nothing can be more suitable than hardy plants, still,
if a long continued and late display of flowers is wanted, only a
few kinds must be employed to give effect. Of course we can do
without the amount of flower in this garden which we must have
in the flower-garden proper, and so admit the best hardy flowers ;
and by a selection of plants prominently introduced, which it is
known will give effect at certain times, still have a sufficient amount
of flower when it may be required. I think, also, that at this
season much more brightness might be obtained in gardens, were
this class of flowers more used for filling detached beds. For in-
stance, there is nothing to rival Sedum spectabile for a pink bed just
now \ Chrysanthemum " Precocite," again, cannot be equalled in the
brilliancy of its yellow flowers when massed ; and Tritoma uvaria is
simply unapproachable for eff'ect \ while with Phloxes, Antirrhinums,
Japanese Anemones, Aster longifolius formosus, A. amellus, and Salvia
patens, quieter beds can be indulged in. But with these, as well as
with ordinary bedding plants, I think it a mistake to dispense with
edgings. Beds of all kinds, and borders as well, without an edging,
at least show a want of finish which I do not like. If, for instance,
we plant a bed of the Chrysanthemum above-named in a bed cut out in
grass, and instead of filling to the edge with the same flower, we run
a 9-inch ring of Santolina incana round as an edging, and inside that
a band of Sedum spectabile, we at once obtain a foil to the main
flower, which improves its effect, at the same time that any harshness
in the colouring is counteracted, and the eye obtains a more pleasing
impression from the shading which it unconsciously feels in passing
from this particular colour to another. Where flowers are required
late, it is certainly worth while, every way, to introduce some of all of
the above-named plants. They nearly all require high cultivation — all
are decidedly the better for it. In seasons when Geraniums and others
of that class are in disgrace, these will be found to shine so much the
more. It is well worth every means being taken to continue a display
of bright flowers as late into the closing year as possible, as the shorter
and darker the days, the brighter look the flowers. Try what you like
and what you can, nothing better fitted for this purpose than these
can be found. I often feel how inadequate one's pen is beside the
flowers themselves in pressing their claims to attention. Repeatedly

504 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

jtcople come here, see some arrangements tlicy like, or some particular
class of ilowcrs, and forthwith go and cultivate them for themselves.
In writing, you want entirely these living illustrations to enforce what
you know your readers would otherwise be glad to follow ; and one
cannot help feeling that, in consequence, their labour may be in a
great measure in vain.

Allow me to point out, in closing, that the article which Mr Hinds
furnished in last month's issue on " SubtropiCals " is very local in its
range. We are warmer here than a great portion of Yorkshire and
the most northern English counties are, and only one year oat of seven
have we found Ricinus make a satisfactory growth. Cannas and Bal-
sams are of no use whatever ; Variegated Maize does in good seasons.
I imagine the extreme south of England has been kept exclusively in
view when he writes of these covering 6 feet of ground in as many
weeks. And so with hardy plants, the picture is most certainly over-
coloured. In local instances Mr Hinds's experience may be, doubtless,
all against these, but we do not find a good selection of these at all a
bad thing to have ; and I rather imagine most of the '' too, too " writ-
ing about these has been dropped for the past twelve or eighteen
months. Hardy plants have a place to fill in gardens, and they are
unquestionably filling it, quietly, and without the extinction of other
forms of vegetation being ostracised, as one might have expected from
the " flare up " there was about them for a few years.

R. R Brotiierston.

NOTES ON DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS.

THE ERIOSTEMON.

The Eriostemons are all natives of New Holland, and are among the
finest and best of our hard-wooded greenhouse plants. They are mostly
compact-growing evergreen shrubs, and are very free-flowering. The
flower-sprays are admirably adapted for arranging in vases. When
of the proper size, they make capital dinner -table plants, and a
good well-grown specimen is a very telling object on the exhibition-
table. They are purely greenhouse plants, and if a proper selec-
tion of varieties be made, may be had in flower from February till
October : such kinds as E. neriifolius and densifolius, coming into
bloom in February ; E. buxifolius and E. linia^rifolius bloom from
March till June ; E. myoporoides from May till September, and E.
cuspidatus from May till October. These are among the best of the
genus. They should be grown in good fibry peat, with a little
turfy loam and a good proportion of sharp sand incorporated with it.
They will not stand much artificial heat, and they should be kept
moderately dry during winter, as a damp atmospl ere or over-watering
is very injurious to them.

1 88 1.] FRUIT -CULTURE. 505

They are increased by cuttings of the young shoots, which should be
slipped off with a heel, about the end of March or during April. The
pots to receive the cuttings should be well drained, and half filled with
soil from the potting-bench, and then filled up with pure silver sand.
After giving a watering through a fine-rosed pot to settle the sand,
proceed to put in the cuttings, water again, and cover with a bell-glass,
then plunge the pot in a mild hotbed until the cuttings strike root.
As soon as they have fairly rooted, they must then be potted off singly
into small pots, and replunged in the hotbed until they root afresh
into the new soil, w4ien they may be taken out of the plunging material,
and either set on the surface or on a shelf near the glass. Care must
be taken that they do not suffer from want of water in this young
state. They must be shifted on into larger pots as they require it ;
and in potting, the soil should be rammed pretty firmly into the pots
and round about the ball, so that the water may not escape too readily
through the fresh soil, and the ball become too dry in consequence.
They will require to be pinched occasionally when young, to get them
into shape, and to make a good foundation at first, after which they
will not give much trouble in the way of training, save a partial
cutting back of rampant shoots now and again. They stand the knife
well, so that should they at any time become too big, there need be no
hesitation in cutting them pretty hard back, as they will break away
again freely. When the early-flowering varieties have ceased flower-
ing, and as soon as the weather permits, they may be set out of doors,
in a sheltered sunny position, to mature their growth, as on this depends
very much their flowering freely next season. A temperature during
winter of from 45° to 50° will suit them w^ell. They are not much
troubled with insects, but are occasionally attacked by scale, and
a kind of smut which blackens the stems and leaves, rendering them
unsightly. This must be overcome with brushing and syringing
Avith warm soapy water, or any of the hundred and one nostrums for
killing scale, etc. As simple a remedy as any for brown-scale, is to dip
the plant in water heated to 140° Fahr. : this will effectually kill all the
scale, without doing harm to the plant. J. G., W.

FRUIT-CULTURE.

Plums and CnEuiuEs.

Being very much alike in their nature and requirements, we have placed the
Plum and the Cherry tinder one heading. Much of what we have said on the
root and top cultivation of Apples and Pears applies to these fruits, and need
not therefore be repeated. In one })articular Plums differ from Apples and
Pears — they are invariably grafted or budded on the Plum-stock. Mr llivers
tried the Sloe, but he does not seem to have secured particularly favourable
results, as he docs not advise the use of it as a stock, "except as an expcri-

506 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

meiit." AVf have '" experimented " with Sloe-stocks, but although bud and
grafts "took" easily enough, we never could secure a satisfactory after-
growth—indeed the plants would not grow at all after the lirst year. How-
ever, dwarf Plums are easily secured by the ordinary process of lifting and
root-pruning. This, when repeated several times, results in roots like wigs ;
and when this hapi)ens, it is necessary to thin out the matted roots, for
otherwise it is almost impossible to introduce new soil among them. Indeed,
if this be not done, little check will be given to the trees ; so when small
trees are wanted, the thiuniug of the roots becomes doubly necessary.

Another peculiarity about Plums is that some of the kinds may be raised
from seed. Damsons and Greengages come tolerably true from seed ; but good
forms should always be propagated by budding, for slight differences generally
occur, which in a generation or two become great ones. This is proved by
the many inferior Greengages and Damsons to be met with. At the same
time improvements sometimes occur, so that raising these varieties of Plums
from seed becomes very interesting. Generall}^, however, we advise the
beginner to purchase budded trees.

The liner dessert Plums require to be planted against walls facing south or
south-west. This is especially necessary in Scotland, and in the northern
counties of England. Fan or cordon training is the only mode of training
which we think suitable for Plums on walls. We may observe that the fruit-
bearing spurs are apt to get very long, so that it is well to keep them from
running too far out from the wall. Some kinds are very apt to get bare of
spurs altogether; and to keep the wall well supplied with bearing-wood, young
shoots should be laid in, to supply the places of the older branches as they
become bare.

The appended list of Plums has been selected from a collection which
grew north of the Forth, so it may be regarded as suitable for northern local-
ities. Southern growers may add such other kinds as ai-e found to do well in
their own localities. In favourable districts, many of the kinds which, we
here recommend to be planted against sheltered walls facing the sun, may
thrive in the open garden. The climate must settle the question.

For Walis.

Early Rivers. — The earliest ; a medium-sized fruit, and only second quality ;
but the tree is an abundant bearer, and the fruit ripens with the later Goose-
berries ; it is thus particularly valuable. Greengwje. — Thoroughly well known,
and well deserving of a place. Jeffcrsoii's. — One of the best, so far as regards
quality, and when treated to a sunny sheltered wall, a good bearer. Kirkcs.
— Another excellent kind, well worth a favoured spot when room can be
ailorded, Washimjton. — A first-class fruit, and a good bearer on a good wall.
Reine Claude de Bavay. — Also first-class. Coc's Golden Drq?^. — One of the very
best ; may be kept after it is ripe for some time. Fidona.— Although not
the finest in flavour, it is yet so very good, and so certain and prolific a bearer,
that, had we only room for one Plum, it would most decidedly be Victoria
that would be planted.

For the Open Air.

Victoria. — Only in good localities in the north. Mitchelson's and Damson. —
"When only room can be afforded for one tree on walls, let it be Victoria. If
two, let the second also be Victoria or Early Rivers. If there is only room for
one in the open, the common Damson should get the place, as it is the bar-

iSSi.] FRUIT -CULTURE. 507

diest, the freest bearer, and its fruit is generally useful. When more room
can be afforded on the walls or in the open, the others may be confidently
added.

Cherries

are not often grown by amateurs with very small gardens ; yet there is
good reason for recommending that one or more trees should be planted. We
import Cherries, and they are to be had cheaply ; but they are, unlike the
imported Apples, very inferior to what we can raise ourselves. For placing
against a gable or other portion of the house, what more useful and ornamental
than a Cherry-tree ! In spring, the sheets of snow-white blossom which they
produce enchant us ; and when the hot days of summer come, the luscious
fruit assuages our thirst with juices wholesome and cooling. What better gift
could one give to a sick friend or loved child ?

Their cultivation is simple. The tree will thrive in any not too heavy
garden -soil. Two feet of it on a dry bottom is sufficient. Fan-training is
best, and to secure a moderate fruitful growth, root lifting and pruning
should be resorted to, just as advised for the Apple. It is not a good plan to
lift and cut back strong roots some years old, for they are very apt to run far
away and become bare; and cutting hard back is almost sure to result in
paralysis, if not death. To make sure of having the roots well in hand with-
out any risk, proper care should be taken of them from the first. Cherries
in good soil grow rapidly, sometimes too much so ; so it is good for them
to be lifted and to get their roots regulated a bit. Once in every two or
three years will be sufficient. When the space to be covered is large and the
subsoil very good, they may be left alone at the root; but, generally speaking,
it is much better to get them into good condition from the first.

Excepting Morellos, they should be pinched and pruned on the same prin-
ciple as Apples. Some of the kinds are apt to throw out occasional shoots,
strong enough to swallow up the resources of the whole tree. Plums often do
the same. "When these shoots are not wanted, they should be rubbed oft' at
once ; but when suited for filling a bare place, they ought to be pinched after
they have grown a foot, and the resulting shoots pinched again. This will
check the tendency to steal their neighbours' means.

When there is room for only one tree, by all means let that tree be Maij
Duke. All things considered it is the best, and will thrive in any position,
unless that is very much exposed. The fruit is always finer, however, on
south aspects.

The next one we recommend is the Morello, and this is a cooking Cherry.
Its main recommendation is, that it fruits profusely in the very worst of aspects
— due north. If there are any dwarf walls facing north or east, the most
profitable things the owners of very small gardens could plant to cover them
are black and red Currants — -especially black ones — for they actually do better
in such positions than anywhere else. But if there is a high wall — too high
for Currants to cover — then a deep border should be made, and a Morello
Cherry-tree planted. They are best on the common Cherry -stock for a high
wall ; but if for dwarf walls, they are better on the Mahaleb. Whether small
or tall trees are grown, the management of the top is the same, and differs
altogether from what is suitable for the May Duke. Apples, Pears, Plums,
and May Duke Cherries should all be trained, pinched, and pruned on the
same principle. Morellos, black Currants, and Peach-trees — we ought to add
Apricots and Gooseberries — bear their best fruit on last season's wood. There-
fore we ought to retain tnough of young wood all over the plants of thtse

508 THE GARDENER. [Nuv.

fruits, to l)ei(r a snlTicient crop of fruit. To insure lliis, the pinching and })run-
ing must be conducted ou a somewhat dill'ercnt principle. Instead of pinch-
ing in all the summer growths to a leaf or two, as advised for Ai)ples, &,c.,
each shoot should be allowed to produce two or three others, to be laid in
parallel with the main branches. Only those which would unduly crowd
the others should be pinched ; and we may observe that those which grow
straight out from the wall should be rubbed olF altogether after they have grown
an inch or so, and the others be i)inched to two or three leaves. Generally
speaking, the shoots which are to be retained should all proceed from tlie
upper side of the branch from which they spring. When laid in from both
sides, it is impossible to have all the shoots on the tree pointing from a common
centre ; and when they do not, the tree never looks well. Gardeners get this
properly impressed on them the first time they try their hand at the nail-
ing of trees; but amateur gardeners generally ignore it, and the result is,
branches innumerable, not crossing perhaps, but pointing across, each other's
path, which causes a slovenly and distressing appearance to persons of an
orderly mind, and leads to confusion worse confounded by -and -by, to say
nothing of the unnailing and renailiog which it necessitates. It is neces-
sary, therefore, to lay in perfectly straight all branches pointing regularly
outwards. It is as easy to nail a branch straight as crooked, and when
they are all straight the distances at which they are apart are very easily
regulated. When crooked it is an impossibility, for then the branches are
here widely apart, and there close together, which means waste of wall-space
at some places, and at others the waste caused by over-crowding. Attention
to this is necessary for all trees, but it is doubly so in the case of Morello
Cherry-trees. "We need not, therefore, apologise for entering these remarks
here.

In pruning Morello Cherry-trees, a constant cutting back and thinning out
of old branches is required, to make room for the young wood which is being
continually laid in. Even when the trees are young this cutting back must
take place, otherwise the bottoms of the trees will get bare, and only the upper
portion wuU be suitably furnished. To secure a proper supply of this young
wood, whole branches may need cutting back. When this is done, the
neighbouring branches should be spread out, to cover the vacant space until
young wood has been trained up. Then the neighbouring branches should be
cut in their turn, and this should go on continually. In order to keep trees
well furnished with healthy wood, it is often necessary to cut out or back main
branches.

Peach-trees should be trained on the same principle, and therefore we think
we had better say something of Peach-trees here, although placing the Peach
after the Cherry may seem a curious arrangement. For amateurs in northern
localities the arrangement is right enough, for Peach-trees are to them less
valuable than Moreilos.

Peaches and Nectabixes.

We do not recommend amateurs in northern localities to plant Peach-trees
in their gardens, for they very seldom prove satisfactory unless they are under
glass. It would be somewhat out of place, in addressing ourselves to amateurs
with small gardens, to speak of their cultivation in Peach - houses ; but as
this may fall into the hands of persons favourably situated in the matter of
climate who may wish to grow a few Peaches, we shall give cultural directions
which may be of service to persons unacquainted with their wants.

iSSi.] FRUIT-CULTURE. 509

The warmest places on the walls should be accorded to Peaches, for want of
heat is the reason why they fail in most seasons, as the wood does not ripen
well, and therefore the trees are perpetually subjected to curl, or mildew, or
blister, or some other troublesome disease, which often spoils, and sometimes
destroys, trees in the open air.

A good border of deep soil is another necessity ; for a heavy soil on a wet
bottom, or a very thin soil on a gravelly bottom, does not suit them at all. If
necessary, drain the borders thoroughly, and deepen the soil to 2 feet. If
it is heavy, lighten it by replacing it altogether, or mixing in light soil or
other lightening material. If very light, add heavy soil, if it can at all be got.
The soil ought to be moderately rich, but not enriched by rank manure, for
such induces a growth not easily ripened, and this is the main thing to avoid.
A little hot-lime is a good thing to mix with the soil ; and for manure, a mod-
erate dressing of inch bones should be given.

Peach-trees are budded for the most part on Plum-stocks ; and of course the
roots can be managed in the same way as Plums. It is very desirable to keep
the roots fibry and near the warm surface, for on this a good deal depends —
in fact it often constitutes the diiference between failure and success.

Training should be done as we have advised for Morello Cherries. Disbud-
ding generally takes the place of pinching in this case. Disbudding is just
rubbing otf the buds, when they have grown an inch, which would furnish shoots
in places where they would not be wanted. It is a simple process, and easily
learnt, and although some do not practise it, all our best gardeners do. In
the case of young trees, which have not filled their places, cutting out is not
proper; and, when young strong shoots are to be disbudded, it may be neces-
ary to leave two or three buds to develop, instead of only one or two. But
outdoor trees should bs prevented, by lifting and root-pruning if need be,
from making wood over a foot long ; for short sturdy growths are always more
fruitful and healthy than strong, sappy, half-ripened ones. The case is some-
what different under glass.

"When pinching is properly done, winter-pruning is reduced to a minimum,
and, when the wood is well ripened and short, only consists of cutting out the
old wood. Such shoots as we have said are best should not be pruned back
at all, although some people do it. Ill-ripened shoots, which have got spoilt by
winter's frost, should be cut back to sound wood. In doing this, care should
be taken to cut to a growing bud, for most of the buds on good wood will be
flowered over. These are round and plump, and often in pairs ; and when this
is the case, there is sure to be a narrow-pointed wood- bud between them. Cut
to this. The pruning and fastening of the shoots may be left over till March ;
for then it will be seen what wood needs pruning off, and no mistake can be
made among the buds, for the flower ones will be showing pink.

The blossoms when open, and the fruit when newly set, are often destroyed
by spring frosts. These same spring frosts are, in many districts, almost all
that makes fruit uncertain. Many plans are taken to ward these off, but the
only really successful ones are glass roofs and hot-water pipes. Still, a frost
of only a night's duration may be defied, if the trees are covered with some
protecting material. Common fish-nets, such as are used for protecting the
autumn fruits from the birds, when doubled and put on a foot or two clear of
the trees, are often quite enough. Frigi-domo and other nettings are even
better ; and for small trees, mats, packsheets, &c., may be quite suliicient. If
the frost is keeu and the trees exposed to wind, and if it lasts for some
days, these often prove ineffectual, and sometimes as bad as the frost; for

510 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

a heavy coveriug which excludes the light, weakens the fertilising powers of
the sexual portions of the blossom, so that they fail.

The fruit requires to be gathered by hand, and just before it is ready to
fall. When it falls, even although into a net, or on moss, it is somewhat
spoilt. Peach-fruits won't keep — a few hours only serve to spoil them ; and,
like Strawberries, they are never so good as jusc when gathered and eaten.

Peaches, Cherries, and Plums are often attacked by dillerent species of
aphides or green-fly. Smart syringings of soapy water, at intervals of a few
days, if persisted in, will soon rid the trees of these pests. In hot summers
red-spider proves troublesome on hot soils. The same cure will suffice for it,
if the water is directed forcibly against the under sides of the leaves. Occa-
sionally scale proves a trouble on the Peaches. We never saw it out of doors,
but we have the highest authority — the editor of this Magazine — for saying
that paraffin-oil, mixed with 100 times its own bulk of water, and syringed on
the trees when they are bare of flower, is a perfect cure. After the application
has been on the trees for some hours it should be syringed off with hot water;
for if the application has been too strong, or has not been properly mixed with
the water, it might do mischief. First one syringef ul discharged into the vessel
containing the mixture, and then the next on to the trees alternately, will
keep the oil and water mixed in due proportion.

When the previous summer has been warm and the spring favourable, it
often hapjjens that too many fruits set, and when these are not thinned, they
are inferior, and the trees made unlit to bear a crop the year following. When
the fruit has fairly set, manifestly inferior ones should be rubbed oil", and
afterwards only one left to each one-foot length shoot. Longer growths ou
vigorous trees may bear two or even three, but more means poor fruit. Nec-
tarines are just Peaches, but have smooth instead of downy skins. Some
w^riters range them as different species, but they are not.

Hales s Early — an American kind — is the earliest really good kind, and is
therefore likely to do well in the open air. At Chiswick it ripens among the
first days of August. Early York is also a good early sort, suitable for out-
door culture. In warm districts, even in Scotland, Grosse Mignonne, and
Early Grosse Mignonne, do fairly well in favourable seasons. We have also
seen Pioyal George, Kensington, Bellegarde, and Vanguard do well in Scotland.

Among Nectarines Lord Napier is one of the best, as it is free and early,
and of good flavour. Elruge, Balgowan, and Violette are also trustworthy
kinds.

Aphicots.

Much of what we have said of Plums and Peaches applies to Apricots. Like
Peaches, they are not recommended to those whose gardens are in northern
or cold localities. They are rather too tender for any but warm climates
and sunny walls. In this they must be placed with Peaches, although they
are hardier, if anything. The same kind of soil which we have recommended
for Peaches will suit them. Fan-training is the best form in which to train
them. Most of the kinds should be pruned, pinched, and trained in the same
way as Plums. Like Plums, they form fruit-spurs on the two and three years'
old wood ; and although by careful pruning and pinching older wood may,
like Plums, be kept furnished with bearing spurs, still, like many Plums, old
branches are apt to get bare ; and it is therefore wise to be always training up
young branches, to take the place of older ones as they get bare. Young
shoots when pinched in, in the way recommended for Apples and Pears, form
stubby spurs which produce fruit freely ; and when these spurs are well

i88i.] FRUIT -CULTURE. 511

managed, they may be kept compact and close to the branches and wall for
years. When they get long and straggling it is time to replace them ; for
although spurs which stand far out may produce fruit, yet fruit which is far
from the wall is always inferior to that close to it ; and in late localities, ia
cold seasons, it often does not ripen at all. In warm localities this result is
not so much to be feared ; but even in favoured districts, the fruit which is
close to the wall is always finest.

Moor Park X^vicot differs from the others in that it bears chiefly on the year-
old wood in the same way that Peaches do. It should therefore be ^trained,
pruned, and disbudded in the same way as Peaches. Spurs formed by pinch-
ing in superfluous shoots also bear freely. It is said there are two varieties
of the Moor Park Apricot, one much inferior to the other. The best variety
is considered the best Apricot grown, but Breda and Brussels are hardier.
Hemskirk is also good.

Like Peaches and ISTectarines, Apricots are generally budded on Plum-stocks,
and therefore lifting and root-pruning, when that is necessarj'-, should be done
in the same way in all three cases. It may be observed here of all these fruits,
that lifting and root-pruning should only be done to moderate a too strong
growth, which means a great profnsion of shoots and leaves, but little or no
fruit, and that little of an inferior kind. Sometimes lifting only, without
root-pruning, is needed. It is essential to keep tree-roots fibry and near the
surface, for reasons which we have before stated. However necessary lifting
and root-pruning may be, and very often is, especially in cold localities, it
would be worse than folly to lift and root-prune a tree that was making short
sturdy growths and forming fruit-buds freely. In our paj^ers on the Apple, we
have shown how to keep roots near the surface by mulching, how to assist trees
when bearing, and how to check them when, through having their blossoms de-
stroyed, and thus being barren, the}'^ run into shoots merely. To all the trees
which we have referred these directions apply equally, and therefore we need not
repeat them. We have tried to enforce the principles which should govern be-
ginners, and have also given such details as we thought necessary. But only
practice can make perfection, and only observation teach all that is necessary
to success. Practice needs to be somewhat varied, according to soil, climate,
and other things. In the warm sunny south, especially on deep soils, trees
may grow strongly, and yet, by being thoroughly ripened, bear fine crops of
excellent fruit.

In the cold north, especially' in wet localities, a much more restricted
growth is required, for trees which grow strongly very often fail to produce
fruit at all. In hot dry localities, deep soils, into which roots may sink for
sustenance when the surface is parched and dry, may be absolutely necessary
in order to secure success. When the climate is cold and the rainfall great,
the roots cannot be too near the surface, otherwise the sap drawn out of the
cold undersoil may so keep down the temperature of the trees that blossom-
buds never form, or if they do, the fruit never ripens. When fruit-growers
understand all this, and the capabilities of their own garden and climate and
soil, they will know how to vary their practice to secure success. With the
best of skill and the profoundest knowledge, northern gardeners can never
produce results equal to those in the more favoured south ; but the possession
and application of these to barren fruit-trees may produce results which may
astonish those who have laboured in vain, simply for want of the knowledge
of those principles which we have endeavoured to explain, or for want of
opportunity to apply them.

512 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

Before closing this chapter, we may add a few remarks on pruning, which
ap[)ly to all trees. In making cuts, be sure to make them clean and short. In
cutting out a branch always cut close to the cleft, and if the branch is so thick
as to necessitate the use of the saw, always take care to smooth the surface
with a sharp knife. In cutting young shoots, always cut to a wood-bud, and
about an eighth of an inch above it, and be sure to cut to buds which point in
the direction in which it is wished to make the resulting shoots grow. Make
all cuts slanting, at about an angle of 45°, with tlie faces of the cuts pointing
downwards wherever possible. In all cases cuts should be so made that no
rain can possibly lodge on them.

Finally, the soil about all trees .should be made very firm, especially under-
neath the roots. A loose soil favours the production of long sappy roots, with
their concomitant of long sappy shoots. Loose soil holds too much water ; a
firm one is always drier. "Wet soil is sure to be cold, for water requires more
heat to warm it than dry soil, and as firm soil is always drier, it is sure to be
warmer. For stone-fruits especially, the soil should be very firm indeed.

A. H., H.

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF WALL - BORDERS IN
KITCHEI^ - GARDEN'S.

NO. X.

Pearlies and Nectarines. — Outdoor crops of these having been unusu-
ally good, both in quantity and quality — at all events in the southern
and midland counties of England — the demand for young trees will
inevitably be extraordinary. Many of us were beginning to despair of
success again crowning our efforts ; but those who fortunately have
continued to replace their debilitated old specimens with healthy
youngsters, have this season been rewarded as their perseverance
deserved. The winter of 1879-80 was remarkably destructive among
Peach and Nectarine trees ; the old trees especially, with their im-
paired vitality and badly ripened growths, being most extensively
killed. The younger trees escaping comparatively uninjured, subse-
quently formed excellent growth, and this being well ripened, was un-
injured during the past severe winter — hence the above result.

To a certain extent we are independent of the outdoor Peach and
Nectarine crops, and, as a consequence, no thorough attempt has been
made to replace the fine specimens that only a short time since
occupied our walls. This being so, I propose to write upon what
has been accomplished by others, notably Mr Goodacre at Elvaston
Castle Gardens, near Derby, and Mr W. Taylor, Longleat, Wilts. The
success of the former is the most remarkable, owing to the unfavour-
able position of the garden — being almost on a level with the river
Derwent, rendering it almost impossible to drain ; and when it is
stated that the soil is a heavy retentive clayey loam, it will be readily
conceded that in such a garden it must be " Peach-growing under diffi-
culties.^' Yet here is to be seen a long and high south wall, beautifully

i88i.] WALL-BORDERS IN KITCHEN-GARDENS. 5L3

furnished with standard and dwarf trees, trained in the old-fashioned
fan system, which at the time of my visit (end of August) were heavily
cropped with ripening fruit. It would be useless to plant trees in such
a soil as this, and on the ordinary level, consequently the whole of the
border, to a depth of about 30 inches and 10 feet wide, was thrown out,
a drain laid from each tree to the main pipe, over these being spread
a layer of stones, clinkers, tfee., and as much fresh turf as could be pro-
cured, worked in with the best of the old soil and mortar-rubbish.
This brought the back of the border when settled to about 18 inches
above the ordinary level ; and as the trees when established were freely
mulched with manure, and no vegetables permitted on the Peach
border, the roots are easily kept near to the surface, as they should be.
At Longleat, also, an unusual difficulty is experienced with Peach
and Nectarine culture, but this is not apparent to a superficial ob-
server. Mr Taylor has notliing to complain of with regard to eleva-
tion ; but he appears to have a soil to deal with that is very unsuit-
able to the Peach. This "is composed principally of a strong clayey
loam, without the slightest trace of lime — a remarkable fact, seeing
how abundant the latter is in the district. Whether this affects the
longevity of the trees I am unable to say. One thing is certain, their
life is a "short one;" and it is equally certain, under Mr Taylor's
management, it is a " merry one." His method of training, as recently
described in the pages of the ' Journal of Horticulture,' is original,
and decidedly worthy of general imitation. In the first place, he com-
mences with maiden or unformed plants, giving the preference to those
that have formed a weU-ripened growth about a yard long. When
received in November, they are planted 4 feet apart, and uprightly
against a south wall. To continue in his own words, and which I can-
not do better than copy verbatim : " The knife is not to be used at
all the first winter, unless it is to cut off a small side-shoot or two
which may be formed ; but this is not really necessary, and I gene-
rally leave them on and tack them to a wall. When the plants have
made growths 2 or 3 inches long in spring, which they will do in abun-
dance, some of these must be selected along each side of the stem, at
intervals of about 9 or 10 inches, which must be carefully looked after
and trained outwards, with about the same slope as the roof of a
slated house; the other shoots, where crowded, may be carefully
thinned by taking some of them off close to the stem, but leaving as
many as there is room for to clothe the stem and assist circulation,
merely stopping them to four or five leaves. The second year will see
the wall nearly covered, and bearing a few fruits ; while the third,
should the season be favourable, will bring a full crop, and every other
tree will require removal." He further remarks, he has a " good
length of wall in this happy condition," and confesses to being " not
a little proud of it;" and with good reason, for heavier crops of
highly coloured fruits I liave not seen, whether under glass or on the

:y\4: THE GARDKNER. [Nov.

open wall. The only protection used in spring was a board-coping a
foot wide, and ordinary fishnets — this proving sufiicient to ward off
what is popularly, if erroneously, termed 9° of frost.

No doubt the introduction of earlier kinds of Peaches and Nectar-
ines has had a stimulating effect upon their culture in the open air, as
these seldom fail to ripen, however unfavourable the season may be.
Of Peaches, the earliest is Rivers's Early Beatrice ; this being closely
followed by a superior variety — Early Louise; and two other excellent
early sorts are Early Rivers and Hales's Early, provided, however, the
latter is procured true to name. Grosse Mignonne probably would
not succeed in northern districts, but I have had it remarkably good
under that name, and synonyms such as Padley's Early Purple,
Neal's Early Purple, and Royal Kensington, both in the midland and
southern counties. Noblesse has succeeded well in many districts
this season, and the handsome Bellegarde has been exceptionally fine,
and should be included in every collection. Of later varieties Barring-
ton and Walburton Admirable are, I believe, unsurpassed. Sea Eagle,
in a friend's garden near here, the soil of which is remarkably light
and chalky, and therefore unsuited to Peach-culture, was very prolific
and good, and is strongly recommended.

The list of Nectarines, though short, yet includes several excellent
varieties. Of these Lord Napier, a comparatively early variety, raised
by Mr Ptivers, has won golden opinions in all directions on account of
its earliness, productiveness, large size, and good quality of fruit.
Hunt's Tawny, Pitmaston Orange, Balgowan, and Downton, have all at
different times proved very profitable with me, and not always under
favourable circumstances.

In late unfavourable districts the preference should be given to
south walls for Peaches and Nectarines ; but in warmer districts, and
on ligbt soils, they frequently succeed admirably on west and even east
walls. Some of the best crops I have yet secured in the open were
from an east wall in an exposed garden in Shropshire. The precau-
tion, however, was taken to keep the roots well supplied with moisture,
and the frigi-domo blinds down when easterly winds prevailed early
in the season. On a south-east wall here they have hitherto proved a
complete failure ; but I shall unhesitatingly "try my hand " with them
in the same position. W. Iggulden.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR THE CONSERVATORY.
By the time these notes are in print, many conservatories will be be-
ginning to look gay with Chrysanthemums, and in most cases it will
have been found that they come so easily into bloom, that their owners
and cultivators may be inclined to think little or nothing of interest
can be said about them. So far as their general culture goes, it is
certainly very easy — so easy, that I am of opinion far more attention

i88i.] CHRYSANTHEMUMS FOR CONSERVATORY. 515

is paid to it, in numerous instances, than there is any occasion for, or
than is good for their appearance. With many. Chrysanthemum-grow-
ing is looked on as a much greater concern than growing fruit-trees;
and the attention bestowed on training, thinning, and disbudding
Chrysanthemums, is double that given to fruit-trees. If all this rendered
them good, useful conservatory plants, the matter would be easily un-
derstood, and its general application recommended ; but as a rule, all
the training they get only tends to make them more unnatural-looking,
and more unfit to be what they ought — and that is, the most useful of
all conservatory plants at this season. Size of bloom is the first and
only consideration with many. Anything or everything will be done
to secure this. From the first, the greatest care will be taken that the
main stems are not stopped or retarded in any way. If they can be
induced to grow to 5 or 6 feet, it is considered something wonderful,
and as near perfection as possible has been attained ; but the training
does not stop here. As soon as ever the buds are visible they are all
thinned off to two or three, and in some cases only one is left. Then
the great bloom which so much has been done to produce opens, and
it is neither an ornament in the conservatory nor useful in a cut state,
at least sufficient numbers cannot be had to make them useful.
This and other equally useless practices are what is termed specimen-
Chrysanthemum growing; but to the great majority of cultivators the
systems have nothing to recommend them, and should be avoided,
however highly the results may be pictured. To our mind, the real
conservatory Chrysanthemum is a low-growing, natural-like spreading
bush, which may be placed on a side shelf, or centre bed, or anywhere
on the ground-level, and still retain its individual attraction, the rich
clusters of bloom being looked down on, and not stared up at. Chiefly
for want of water and nourishment in summer and autumn, many
Chrysanthemums lose all their bottom leaves, and the bare stems be-
come rather prominent to view. This does not improve their appear-
ance when in the conservatory, unless there are some long-growing
bushy plants placed in front of them; and their appearance in this
way is worse still when a large number of stakes are used to support
the stems. Frequently these are so numerous, that the stakes are more
bulky than anything else ; but fine ornamental Chrysanthemum plants
may be grown for conservatory decoration without any stakes. At
the present time our Chrysanthemums are just showing bud. They
are mostly growing in 8 -inch pots, each potful being composed of
about a score of shoots from 12 to 36 inches in height. These have
been grown, well exposed to light on all sides and plenty of sun, since
last spring, and every shoot is so robust that it is self-supporting,
which does away with the use and time of staking altogether; and the
plants when in bloom are very pleasing, as, at the end of every shoot,
fine-sized blooms come out in massive clusters. These plants are used
here and there in the conservatory, and a single row of them, over 300

2l

516 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

feet in length, is ])laced along the front of tlie orange-house; and in
both ways the effect is infinitely better than we ever saw or could get
with trained plants and thinned-out flowers, attention to both of which
we consider loss of time, and no gain in any other way. To secure
dwarf bushy plants of the kind we indicate, the cuttings may be taken
off and rooted in February or March ; and as soon as they have begun
to grow freely and make roots in single pots, stopping should com-
mence.

Keeping the plants dwarf at first, and securing a good base of young
shoots close to the bottom, is the best way of beginning to get the
most useful of all forms of the Chrysanthemum. The shoots may
require stopping often er than once or twice ; but they should be
allowed to grow up from the middle or end of July onwards. From
then until they flower, it is of the utmost importance that they are
never allowed to feel the want of moisture at the root. Being allowed
to become over-dry once or twice, or repeatedly, as is often the case,
interferes greatly with the healthy appearance of the plant, and it has
also a tendency to diminish the size of the blooms. A free growth
and unchecked development are what give the best results, and reason-
able attention will always insure this. At the present time, as Chry-
santhemums are now our staple flower, there is little danger of their
being neglected; but it is not so much when they are just coming into
flower that special and constant attention is wanted to make up for
other or previous omissions. If well grown up to the time the flower-
buds form, they will, in a sense, take care of themselves afterwards,
and open their flowers freely and fully. fStill, when in small pots, and
these well filled with roots, the soil and manure used at pottiiig-time
may be nearly exhausted ; manure-water may then be given with advan-
tage two or three times weekly. Although very hardy, Chrysanthemum
flowers are very liable to damp or decay prematurely if the atmosphere
about them is close, cold, and humid; and when it is desired that they
should last good to Christmas or further on, conditions of the kind
must be avoided. Chrysanthemums, especially before they come into
bloom, will bear much frost without injury; and when they are wanted
late, there need be no great hurry to get them under cover in autumn.
Some of the earliest-flowering ones may be taken in about the middle
of October or so, but the late ones should be left out as long as ever
the blooms are not liable to suffer. This plan will give a longer suc-
cession of bloom than trying to keep them back after they are in full
flower. Where many plants are grown, it is seldom all are wanted for
cuttings, one of each kind generally being sufficient to supply a stock;
and it is well to look better after these plants than the others. When
done flowering they should not be put suddenly out in the cold, or
behind a hedge, or any such place, but they should have the protection
of a cold frame and a glass light at least. For the old plants,
plenty of light and air on all favourable occasions will insure a sup-

i88i.] THE GRAPE-VINE DISCUSSION. 517

ply of robust healthy cuttings; and a good deal depends on getting a
fair start with them. Sickly, half-starved cuttings, or those which
have been drawn up in a dark close place, are never satisfactory. The
general, culture of this useful plant is so well known, that little more
need be said about it. Cuttings root in a close cool frame, but quicker
with the help of a little bottom-heat ; but the latter should never be
used longer than just to produce roots. They may be rooted in groups
in 6-inch pots, or singly in small ones — the latter is the best plan —
and from these they may be shifted at once into their blooming pots.
The compost should always be rich and rough, and drainage secure.
Plunging the pots in summer in ashes, sawdust, or ordinary soil, pre-
vents them from suffering so much for want of water where there is
any danger of their l)eing stinted in this ; but above all things to
avoid in successful Chrysanthemum culture, imperfect and insufficient
watering is the greatest. J. Muir.

THE GRAPE-VINE DISCUSSION.

As a gardener who has worked Grapes on the low night-temperature
system, you will perhaps allow me to say something on the subject, as
opened up by Mr Simpson in last month's ' Gardener.' I have before
now stated my opinion on this system in the ' Gardener;' and without
saying that it is the best system for the production of the very
highest class Grapes, I have taken up this position, that good family
Grapes can be produced thus — at the lowest possible expenditure
in labour, fuel, and wear of vineries ; at the same time, the Vines
stand heavy cropping better, and will last longer than under high-
steaming temperatures. When I restate that our vineries are not
damped down, nor the Vines at any time syringed, something like the
saving of labour over the old system will be at once apparent. As
regards saving of fuel, that will go without saying ; and as to the saving
in the wear of vineries, when it is understood that at no time is the
atmosphere of the houses in a saturated condition, or the houses shut
up, that also will be apparent enough ; while as regards the improve-
ment in Vines, that of course has to be tried and proved to be believed.
The moot point, which has divided certain growers, has been as to the
setting of the berries in low night-temperatures. I am inclined to
believe that, other circumstances being right, a few degrees either way
does not matter at this period ; though at the same time I can fully
endorse what was stated in the xlugust issue, that " ^Muscats worked
low at the blooming period were not set at all — stoneless or seedless,
in fact." This is just what we find in our old Muscats. The bunches
are full, but at least fifty per cent of the berries are without seeds.
Whether they would stone if set in a higher temperature I do not say,
but I hope to find how young Vines behave under both conditions of
temperature.

518 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

And now let me say tliat I do not tliink the system as pursued by
Mr Simpson one that will be followed by gardeners. Like many more
gardeners, I had an opportunity of seeing some of the Grapes produced
by Mr Simpson under his system at the Edinburgh Show in September,
and nothing stronger could have been adduced as condemnatory of the
system than these Grapes. It is to be presumed that these were the
very best examples of Grape-culture which Mr Simpson could find to
send. I do not know how the exhibition Grapes were grown, as, of
course, they might all have been produced in low night-temperatures,
or, on the other hand, under orthodox conditions ; but any way, the
Wortley Grapes were inferior in all respects to those staged for prizes.
Instead of cutting any berries out, in one or two of the sorts it would
have improved them to have produced a few more berries to fill them
up with. The Show was held in the second week of September, and
the Grapes were then unripe. Mr Simpson states they " are in flower
early in the year." If so, how are they managed that they were unripe
at the above date ? I contrive to get ours in flower in May, and ripe
before September is out. It would take us to fire pretty hard to get
such Grapes as those under discussion ripe at the end of October, and
then they would not have the flavour of Grapes ripened earlier. That
the Vines had been too late in being ripened the previous season, was
quite apparent from the loose make-up of some of the specimens. Mr
Simpson states in a contemporary that he has had letters asking for
advice as to how to proceed under the system he advocates, these
Grapes having convinced the writers that it was better than the old
system. I make bold to state my belief that no gardener who knows
a good bunch of Grapes has asked for advice. Had I seen these
examples eight years ago, I am afraid I might still have been indulg-
ing in high night-temperatures. When Grapes have got the colour on
fairly, they require a high temperature to ripen them properly,
and, what is of as much consequence, to ripen the wood of the Vines
as well. Fuel saved at the expense of the Vines and the Grapes is a
kind of retrenchment which does not pay.

It may be a matter of some amusement to those of your readers who
do not read the * Journal of Horticulture,' to know that the writer to
whom Mr Simpson refers was taken to task by a gentleman in another
paper, for stating that he " cropped his Vine-canes regularly at the rate
of from 30 lb. to 50 lb. to the rod," and asked therein to furnish his
name, and the whereabouts he contrived to obtain such incredible
results. It is generally understood that the gentleman who adduces
the testimony of this writer in support of his system of low night-
temperature in the ' Gardener ' for October is also the one who
thus discredits that writer's statement in another paper a month
earlier. But more strange still is this fact, that, in the ' Journal of
Horticulture' for October 6th, this same writer, who had seen Mr
Simpson's Grapes at Edinburgh, condemns Mr Simpson's " position ; '^

iSSi.] AUTUMN TREATMENT OF GLADIOLUS. 519

tells liim very candidly " his Grapes were green," and asks him " how
he ripens them ? " considers " neither the system of people who burn
coals at night," nor the system of Mr Simpson, who must burn
" coals late in autumn " to be " right ; " and then states — " We l-noiv
some have tried low niglit-temperatiLres^ and have ultimately ahandoned
them, for the reasons ive have given^^ !

I may say that I think the "few cardinal points" noted in tlie article
on Vines in the August number are quite to the point. Nobody could
fail to produce good Grapes under the conditions there stated, the
question of '"' setting " aside altogether. With regard to the dressing of
bone-meal therein recommended, I may state that last autumn I worked
into our borders a manure composed of superphosphate nitre and
plaster of Paris mixed with bone-meal, and repeated the dressing in
summer. I have never had Grapes coloured better than this year, and
attribute that greatly to the potash contained in the nitre. Our
borders are never watered without the addition of some enriching
manure. I give high temperatures neither by day nor night. As the
vineries are neither " damped down " nor " shut up," it is rarely that
85° is exceeded as the maximum temperature. If red-spider appears,
it can always be traced to a fault in the management. In our case, a
moist atmosphere or a dry one has nothing whatever to do with it.
Were we to emj^loy hot pipes to bring along the Grapes, these condi-
tions might be absurd ; under the treatment we give our Vines, we
hnd them necessary and wise. R. P. Brotheestox.

AUTUMN TREATMENT OF GLADIOLUS.

Everywhere we now hear of the deterioration of this beautiful autumn
flower, and of unsuccessful attempts to get it to grow year after year
without buying a fresh stock of bulbs. This state of things is most
unfortunate, as bought bulbs cannot in every case be induced to grow.
This spring, for instance, some fourteen out of fifty bulbs I purchased
are still lying as they were planted, without making a sign of life.

Though I have before told in the ' Gardener ' of the treatment I find
successful with the Gladiolus, I think the subject will bear repetition.
My plan is to wait till warm weather — about the end of April — before
planting, and to plant in highly cultivated ground : it is impossible to
cultivate too highly. Then, in a season like the present, it is an absolute
necessity that the young bulbs should be artificially ripened, as they
will not ripen if left in the ground. Some of the earlier sorts, as Didon
and Shakespeare, may, but the great majority will not. The only plan,
therefore, is to lift the plants as entire as possible, securing a ball of
soil round the roots, and placing them in vineries or plant-houses to
finish : those which have not flowered at this date may be lifted, the
ball of soil crammed into a pot, and the flowers allowed to open in

520 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

greenhouses or conservatories. It has been chronicled that lifting
Gladiolus and ripening them under glass is of no use : I do not suppose
it is when the plants are merely pulled up and laid in bunches on the
borders. Such treatment may benefit ripened bulbs, but not those
which are in full growth. 1 am confident, from my own experience,
that any one having late Gladiolus will, by lifting them as above
directed and placing them in an airy structure until ripened, and the
succeeding season letting the sun have some effect before planting,
find that it is not altogether such an uncertain flower as it has got the
character of. R. P. Brotherston.

DISBUDDIlSrG CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

A WRITER in the August number of the ' Gardener,' and whose com-
munication I have not been able to notice sooner, professing to quote
from a contemporary, says it was asserted early in the year by a culti-
vator that the finest Chrysanthemum flowers were "invariably pro-
duced upon the terminal bud." I apprehend from the remarks of
your correspondent that I am the party referred to, although he has
misrepresented my statements in regard to the subject. What I did
was to offer a challenge to Chrysanthemum-growers to controvert, by
ocular demonstration, a statement which I here reproduce. Your
correspondent could have accepted the challenge then and there, and
there would have been an opportunity by this time of deciding the
matter, but for reasons best known to himself he did not accept it.
Speaking from memory chiefly, what I stated elsewhere was this :
A Chrjjsanthenmm }>lant ivhich is grown on in a ItealtJu/ manner,
as regards culture — the slioots being thiuTied out in the ordinary way^
and otlierioise attended to, hut not pinched or meddled tvith after the
foundation of the plant has been formed — almost invariably jyj^oduces
its best and largest floivers at the tops of the shoots, sometimes there
beijtg only one terminal floiver, and sometimes two or three. This is
what happens in the case of a Chrysanthemum shoot that is allowed to
complete its growth, and flower in a natural manner; and I asked
experienced growers to controvert my statement by producing a shoot
or a plant that behaved otherwise, — but no one has done so yet. But
if your correspondent, Mr Hinds, is as anxious to get to the truth of
the matter as he professes to be, let him prove by practical illustration
that I am wrong.

In speaking of Chrysanthemum buds, I do not mean those abortive
buds that sometimes show themselves in July or a little later, and
never come to anything, and are never expected to do ; but I mean the
buds that actually do produce the first flowers on a naturally developed
shoot, and at the right season. The issue raised is a plain and simple one,
and if your correspondent can put aside irrelevant points for the time

BOTANY FOR GARDENERS.

521

being, and answer me directly, some progress will have been gained,
and this discussion will be more instructive and satisfactory to your
readers. If it can be proved that the terminal flowers are the best,
naturally, of course, it follows that they will also become the best in
the hands of the cultivator who grows them for exhibition or any other
purpose. It stands to reason that the bud which is in a position to
receive the direct force from the roots will be the first and the best —
and that is the position which a top bud of a Chrysanthemum plant
occupies. There are numbers of plants of a similar habit that behave
in the same manner — the Strawberry, for example, the first flowers
on a scape of which are always the best. Chrysanthemums will soon
be in flower ; let Mr Hinds send a plant — root and top all intact — that
has been grown as I suggested, and let the Editor decide who is right
in the matter. I will do this if needful, but prefer to give my
opponent the chance.

The Author of the Article in a Contemporary.

BOTANY FOR GAKDENERS.

NO. X. — SEEDS {continued).

To watch the growth of various seeds is an extremely interesting
study, and one of which I am very fond. I often grow some Peas
and Beans on a very damp cloth or wet moss : the latter is best, as it
retains moisture much longer than the former. It must not, of course,
be supposed that they will continue to grow very long, as they will
simply do so until the radicle and plumule are about a quarter to half
an inch long. A better plan still is to grow them in a light soil and
examine them every week, when you cannot fail to notice the elonga-
tion of the radicle, kc

To give the reader a better idea of the inner structure of the cotj'-
ledons, and also bud of the future

plant, here is a little sketch of an P d

embryo of the Pea, minus its skin,
and opened carefully, c c represents
the cotyledons or seed-lobes ; t, com-
mon axis, whence both radicle and
plumule proceed, which is united by
a short petiole; ^v, plumule ; r, radicle ;
and </, a small aperture in which ^

rested the bud.

We may reasonably infer that, before the radicle is capable of ob-
taining its own food, it is supplied to it from the cotyledons ; the
radicle, as it increases in size, sinks into the earth, assumes the form
of a root, and becomes not only its own food-supplier, but that of the

622 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

future plant. Even at this period, after the radicle has become a per-
fect root, the plant, as Sennebier ascertained by experiment, ceases to
germinate if the cotyledons be cut off. They are still, then, absolutely
necessary for the vegetation of the plant. The cotyledons now assume
the appearance of leaves, and appear above the ground, forming what
are called cotyledon-leaves of the plant. After this the plumule gradu-
ally increases in size, rises out of the earth, and expands itself into
branches and leaves. The cotyledon-leaves soon after this drop off
and decay.

As it does not appear that there is any communication between
the cotyledons and the plumule, we must infer that the nourishment
that the plumule obtains must pass into it from the radicle ; and
accordingly, we see that the plumule does not begin to vegetate until
some time after the radicle has made a little progress. Since the plant
ceases to vegetate, even after the radicle has been converted into a
root, if the cotyledons be removed before the plumule is developed, it
follows that the radicle is insufficient of itself to carry on the processes
of vegetation, and that the cotyledons still continue to perform a part
— and that is, they prepare food for the nourishment of the plant.
When the young plant assumes the form of cotyledon-leaves, it is very
evident that the nourishment, which was originally laid up in them for
the support of the embryo plant, is exhausted, yet they still continue
as necessary as ever. They must therefore receive the nourishment
which is imbibed by the roots : they must produce some changes on it
— render it suitable for the purposes of vegetation — and then send it
back again to be transmitted to the plumule. After a plumule has ac-
quired a certain size, which must at least be a line, if the cotyledons
be cut off, the plant, both Bonnet and Sennebier ascertained by experi-
ments, does not cease to vegetate, but it continues always a mere pigmy
— its size when compared with that of a plant whose cotyledons are
allowed to remain, being only as 2 to 7. When the plumule has ex-
panded completely into leaves, the cotyledons maybe removed without
injuring the plant, and they very soon die of themselves. It appears,
then, that this new office of the cotyledons is afterwards performed by
that part of the plant which is above ground. For a fuller explana-
tion, and various modes of germination, see the 'Gardener' of
September 1880, page 414.

The embryo is usually solitary in the seed, but occasionally there
are two or several.

When several embryos are produced within a single seed, it some-
times happens that two of these embryos grow together, in which case
a production analogous to animal dicephalous monsters is formed.

The number of cotyledons varies from one to several ; commonly
two, in which case they are mostly opposite : E.c. Pea, Bean, (fee.

W. Egberts.
{To he continued.)

1 88 1.] APPLES, &c. 523

KALOSATSTTHES COCCINEA.

Allow me to add my testimony to that of Mr Hammond's as to tlie
value of the Kalosanthes as a decorative plant. I endorse all he has
said in its favour, and agree with him as to the simplicity of its culture.
Last August (1880) I put some cuttings in exactly as described by Mr
Hammond with good results, each plant producing a fine strong head
of flowers in June following, and proved very useful. I, however, had
much better results from plants that were propagated in the beginning
of May of the same year, as not only did the main shoots bloom, but
the side shoots also. The way that we treat them is as follows : As
soon as the plants show bloom, all the shoots that are not going to
flower are taken off and inserted in 3 or 4 inch pots — 5 cuttings in a
pot. When well rooted they are shifted into 5 or 6 inch pots, and
kept in a close frame till well established. By the end of June they
are hardened off, and plunged in ashes in the full sun, along with
winter - blooming Geraniums, and receive the same attention, ex-
cept that they require less liberal waterings. Our little plants for
next year's bloom are still plunged out of doors (bth Sept.), and each
plant shows from four to six side shoots, the strongest of which will
produce bloom as well as the leading shoot. Thus, with five plants in
a pot you may depend on from fifteen to twenty heads of bloom.
When taken indoors they are placed near the glass, along with
Pelargoniums, and receive the same treatment as they do, till they
come into bloom. In Sussex we have more sun and less rain than
in Cumberland. In wet localities it would not be advisable to plunge
them out, but grow in a frame close to the glass, and with plenty of
air. U. Inglis.

APPLES, &c.

It is probable there are not many gardens in this country in which
there may be varieties of American Apples. It was a matter of con-
siderable interest to ourselves when, about five years ago, a dozen
medium standard trees were sent root-and-branch packed in a box ;
and notwithstanding the long voyage, the roots were in excellent con-
dition. They were forthwith planted in a suitable situation, with good
maiden loam about the roots. Unfortunately there has scarcely been a
favourable fruit season from then until now ; but even this season,
when, generally speaking, the xipple crop is abundant, there is no fruit
on any of the American varieties. But what I have thought would be
considered interesting, and instructive likewise, is the fact that a graft
of the American variety which I put two years ago upon a dwarf
standard tree (var, Lady's Finger) has three beautiful Apples upon it,
and the appearance of the graft, which is very vigorous upon the stock,
is most conspicuous. What may be learned from this fact is, that while

524 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

American varieties may be too tender to stand our severe winters, yet
by engrafting them upon hardy stocks of varieties grown in this
country, success is likely to be the result.

Now a note or two regarding a plant wliicli for about seventeen
years I have grown here in the greenliouse : the name of it is Coleus
orientalis. It flowers and seeds most profusely. I saved some seed
last year, and thought by sowing it early in spring in heat, and get-
ting it pricked out in the same way as Verbena venosa or Lobelia
speciosa is done, it would be in readiness for the bedding-out season.
I am very much pleased with the experiment, for it has succeeded
admirably this season, which cannot be regarded as a highly favour-
able one for flowers, any more than it has hitherto been for the corn
crop. To those who do not know it, or may not have seen it, I will
try and describe it as well as I can. It is exceedingly dwarf and com-
X)act in its habit of growth, with broad foliage of a lively green, throw-
ing up in the centre a strong robust spike from which issue several
lateral spikes. In colour it is of a bright yellow, much more so than
Golden Gem Calceolaria. It commences flowering at the base, and con-
tinues flowering up to the termination of the spike. As a pot plant
it requires staking, but as a bedding-out plant this is not necessary.

Just one other note and I have done for the present. Vallota pur-
purea is deservedly a popular pot plant, but sometimes it is over-pot-
ted. I have about a dozen 9-incb pots, in each of which there are three
bulbs or plants : they have not got a shift for two years, and they could
not possibly have flowered finer, as they are in great perfection of
bloom and foliage at the present time, but they like good feeding,
which they get with soot and dovecot manure in liquid form.

H. Rose.

THE VARIETIES OF CALANTHE VEITCHII.

We do not know how many varieties there are in cultivation of this
fine and most useful winter-flowering Orchid ; but there are, at least,
two varieties, and one of them is very much superior to the other. It
is more robust in its growth, and in colour much more brilliant. The
pale and inferior variety is easily known, even by the shape of the
bulbs, every one of which has the peculiarity of being very much con-
tracted just about its middle — so much so, in fact, that it is very easily
broken through. Growers who happen to have only this fiddle-shaped
variety should try and procure the other, for it is much finer. We
had a considerable number of the inferior kind at one time — indeed
the major part of our stock was of it — but have entirely discarded
it, and grow only the darker variety, that has no contraction in its
bulbs.

i88i.] DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCTATION. 52r>

DEUMLANRIG GARDENERS' MUTUAL IMPROVEMENT
ASSOCIATION.

The circling year having once more brought us roiand to the opening of
another .session, the following short report of the last one is presented in ac-
cordance with the annual custom. The attendance, which is one of the best
criterions of a society's prosperity, was exceedingly good ; and the same remark
applies to the papers that were read. The discussions, as usual, were the
most lively portion of the proceedings, and the manner in which they were
engaged in showed the importance which the members attach to being fully
posted up in the subjects. The Association is now in the tenth year of its
existence — a fact which speaks for itself, and one which ought to gladden the
hearts of the most sanguine of its originators. The following is a list of the
subjects which engaged the attention of the members during the session :
Eradication of Garden Insects; Protection of Wall -Fruits; Formation of
Character ; Certain Trades and Professions as Causes of Disease ; Cultivation
of the Cyclamen; Cultivation of the Azalea; Progress in Australia; The
Pansy; Cultivation of the Strawberry; The Conservatory; Temperance;
Forcing of the Fig; Government by Party; Does Civilisation necessitate
Demoralisation ? Food ; Potato Disease ; Cultivation of the Balsam ; Cul-
tivation of the Bouvardia ; Movements of Plants; Garden -walks; Hardy
Plants for Walls ; Cultivation of the Kaspberry ; Pruning of outdoor Fruit-
trees ; The Camellia; "]\lan's Inhumanity to ]\lan ; " Hotbeds and their
Uses ; Cultivation of the Orange ; Window- Plants, and their Injuriousness to
Health. Sechetaht.

DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The usual monthly meeting of this Association was held in the Templar Hall,
Reform Street, on Friday evening the 7th ult. In the absence of the presi-
dent, Mr J. D. Ker, Douglasfield, was called upon to preside. A paper on
"The Ehododendron " was read by Mr Eobert Clark, Scotscraig Gardens. He
opened his subject by giving some details of the rise and progress of the Rho-
dodendron since it was introduced in the year 1650. The species introduced
at this period was that known as hirsutum, which, for nearly one hundred
years afterwards, was the only representative of the genus to be found in
Britain. After glancing at a few of the most notable introductions and hy-
brids of late years, Mr Claik then spoke at some length on the native haunt
of the Rhododendron. With a few exceptions they were clearly plants that
loved the mountain air, being found in far the greatest variety, beauty, and pro-
fusion in the higher altitudes of mountainous districts. The Rhododendron too,
it was shown, is naturally a moisture-loving plant, growing most abundantly in
the damp rocky defiles of mountain-ranges ; or, when their position was less
favourable for root-moisture, the atmosphere was generally found to be damp,
and the climate generally more humid. The character of the soil next claimed
'Mr Clark's attention. Peat, he said, seemed to meet the natural requirements
of the plant more than any other kind of soil ; and this, he thought, showed the
Rhododendron to be a "vegetarian," delighting in a vegetable diet. Loam or
other soils, however, would also grow Rhododendrons to considerable perfec-
tion, if they were well treated in other respects. A few remarks on the

526 THE GARDENER. [Nov.

general tieatmeut of lihododeudrons brought ]Mr Clark's most interesting
paper to a close.

]\Ir James Laird, Moniiieth Nurseries, then read a i)aper on "Transplanting."
In taking up his subject, Mr Laird referred to natural, varied, and curious
means for insuring the distribution of plants, in the first place by seed-sowing.
In this the wind played an important part. The feathered songsters of our
fields and woods also did much to mix and spread the vegetation of our globe.
Much of their food consisted of seeds which in many instances escaped injury
in the process of digestion, and were often deposited in distiicts far remote
from their original position. Transplanting was an artificial means of dis-
tributing plants at an advanced stage of their growth, so as to suit the re-
quirements and taste of each individual operator. Mr Laird then spoke of the
various devices used to assist in the removal of large and bulky trees, and
mentioned some instances of enormous specimens being transported to great
distances with the greatest success. He then passed on to the more practical
part of his subject, and treated at some length of the proper seasons for trans-
planting, making some reference to the various arguments in favour of both
spring and autumn planting. His own opinion was, that spring planting in
the case of evergreens, and autumn planting in the case of deciduous subjects,
was perhaps the safest system. He had to admit, however, that much good
argument had been used in favour of the reverse course. The preparation of
the tree before removal, and the mode of carrying out the operation, were then
referred to, with which, and other valuable hints, 3Ir Laird concluded his
paper. A lively discussion followed.

Hearty votes of thanks were awarded the readers; and a like compliment
being paid to the chairman, the meeting closed.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — As a rule it is not desirable well rooted, when the above treatment
to keep Pine plants that are expected should be applied to them also. If
to make a vigorous growth next season any strong suckers have been shifted
in an active growmg condition after last month with the intention of their
the beginning of this month. Early being fruited next autumn, these
autumn - potted suckers will now be should be kept growing gently all
well rooted, and if kept moist and winter, provided they are in light
warm would grow freely, but it is structures and near the glass. Give
much better to keep them quiet— rest- all young stock more or less air every
ing them without stinting through the | day, and see that none of the plants
dull months of winter. The night are under a drip, or the soil will be-
temperature should not exceed 60°, j come soured, and they will suffer in
and when it is cold or windy a few consequence. All plants of Queens
degrees lower will be better. If the | intended to start into fruit soon after
bottom - heat ranges between 75'' and i the turn of the day should be kept at
80° it will be high enough. Keep | 60° at night : these should be kept
them just moist at the roots; avoid I rather drier at the root than suckers,
the extremes of dryness and moisture. ' and with a bottom-heat of about 80°.
The atmosphere should be dry rather j Those that are intended to start later,
than otherwise, without being parch- to form a succession to the earliest
ing. Recently potted suckers should (jiieens, must not be allowed to be-
have 5° more top and bottom heat till come very dry, or they may get a

i88i.]

CALENDAR.

527

check, and start before they are [
wanted. All plants swelling- off fruit j
must be kept steadily moist at the j
root, with a moist atmosphere and I
temperature of 70^, and a bottom-heat
of 90''. Sprinkle the floors and surface 1
of the bed on fine dry afternoons, I
but do not wet the foliage after this ]
season. As soon as large fruits espe- j
cially begin to change colour, keep <
the soil drier by degrees till it is al- i
most quite dry, when the fruit is quite '
ripe ; for if kept very moist, large fruits |
are apt to begin decaying at the core
as soon as they ripen. Eipe Pines
can now be kept for a month or more
in a cool dry room.

Vines. — Ripe Grapes are more sub- I
ject to mould and decay in November
than any other month, and every pre-
caution must be taken to prevent it.
Keep the night temperature as near
50° as possible, and oa all line days
give a free circulation of air, making
tires if necessary to expel the damp.
Keep the front ventilators closed dur-
ing fogs, but open the top ones a
little, keeping sufficient heat in the
pipes to prevent stagnation. Look to
every bunch at least twice weeklj^
and remove every bad berry. Do not
allow a pot-plant in the vinery that
requires water, and see that no decay-
ing leaves on leaf-stalks are allowed to
hang on the Vines. Prune all Vines
that have cast their leaves, and if
there has been any red-spider on them
during the season of growth, remove
all loose bark and scrub the Vines with
a hardish brush and soapy water ; then
dress with Gishurst's Compound at the
rate of 10 oz. to the gallon of water.
Where ripe Grapes are required from
pot- Vines in April, the Vmes should
now be placed in the house where they
are to be forced, and all put in readi-
ness in connection with it for starting
them next month. If they can be
placed so that they may have a
gentle bottom - heat, it will be a
great help in getting them to start
into growth ; and if placed on a bed of
soil into which they can root through
the bottom of the pots after active
growth is commenced, they will derive
much benefit from it. There are now
so many Grapes that cau be kept in
good condition both on the Vines and
in Grape-rooms, that it is not necessary
nor desirable to start permanent Vines

till the end of December. The out-
side borders of these should now be
well covered with dry fern or straw.
It is presumed that the surface of the
borders of all early vineries have been
properly cared for as directed in for-
mer Calendars. If any of the sum-
mer top-dressings are still on borders
of later Vines they should be removed
now, and all inert soil that may be
immediately underneath them. Lay
on a few inches of fresh loam and a
good dressing of bone-meal, and fork
It into the surface of the border ; then
lay on five or six inches of farmyard
manure, and a sprinkling of dry litter
over all to keep frost out of the border.
Examine the main drains that carry
water away from the foundation of
borders, and see that there is a free
water-way. Complete all necessary
alterations in heating, painting, and
repairs while Vines are dormant.
Where new Vine -borders are to be
made, and the soil for such is not yet
collected, lose no time in attending to
it, and if possible protect it from rains
till it is put into the border. A rather
strong loam lying on a thoroughly
drained bottom gives the most satis-
factory crops of Grapes for a length of
time, and the mere turf from light
sandy soils is the least satisfactory.

Peaches. — All trees intended to be
started next month should be pruned
and tied at once. After they are
pruned, and the wood and glass all
cleansed, syringe the trees with par-
affin and water, at the rate of a wine-
glassful of the former to a gallon of
the latter, and in five minutes after
syringe with clean water. We find
this the most thorough preventive
of green -fly in the early stages of
growth. Remove all the surface-soil
from the borders, and treat as directed
for Vine-borders, and water the inside
border if at all dry. The leaves will
now be off" all the mid-season trees, and
as soon as convenient prune and other-
wise put these in starting order. The
late trees will now be nearly leafiess,
and if the leaves are not adhering firm-
ly to the trees they may be brushed oil".
See that no part of inside borders are
allowed to get dry. Let all young
trees be planted without delay.

Figs. — Prune and tie as soon as all
the leaves are fallen. This, of course.

r)28

THE GARDENER.

[Nov.

refers to late trees, for the early ones
are leailess long ago. l.ike all other
fruit-trees, Figs are often tied in too
thickly, and this evil should be avoid-
ed, liemove the surface - soil of in-
side and restricted borders quite down
to the roots, and cover them with
some fresh loam with which horse-
droppings and bone-meal is liberally
mixed. Keep plants and pots cool
and airy all through this month, but
see that they are not allowed to be-
come over-dry at the roots.

Cucumbers.— The nights are now-
long and the days sunless, conditions
which are very trying to Cucum-
bers. When cold, keep the heat at

C5°; when mild, 7<V at night, with a
rise of S' or so by day. Water at
the root must be more sparingly ap-
l)lied, and the air kept drier, (iive a
little air every day, and keep young
growths regularly stopped and the
leaves from getting crowded. Do not
allow them to bear too many Cucum-
bers at once, or it will weaken them.

Strawberries in Pots.— These should
now be plunged in cold frames, or
placed in orchard-houses or any cool
airy place where severe frosts cannot
reach them, or many of the pots may
get broken. See that they are never
allowed to become dry, nor so placed
that worms get into the pots.

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

Where forcing of vegetables is a mat-
ter of importance, the work in this
department will soon become general.
We never could see much to boast of
by having a mere item of any class of
forced produce for the sake of saying
that such had been on the table.
Those who have good Seakale and
Rhubarb at Christmas are perhaps the
wisest so far as economy is concerned.
In places where there is abundance of
means, it is merely a work of labour
to get plentj'^ of Asparagus, Seakale,
Rhubarb, Chicory, JMushrooms, young
Carrots, forced Potatoes in pots or
planted out in pits, Radishes, and
French Beans. French Beans are more
difficult to supply in January than
now. Those planted out in frames
and pits, and protected from severe
weather, may not be out of bearing
5^et ; but where fire-heat cannot be
applied to keep out damp, it is a diffi-
cult matter to keep them fruiting after
November sets in. Those who have
preserved quantities in salt are best
off; and much labour, expense, and
anxiety are avoided. AVhere there are
means to grow French Beans they may
be started at once in small pots — size
is not very important — "wnth three to
live beans in each, and allowed to grow
a few inches high in a heat of 55° to 60°
(more with sun), with due proportions
of air and plenty of light ; and potted
into 7-inch pots or a size larger, they
wnll do well, and make an excellent
change with other vegetables during
winter. Every two or three weeks a

number of pots may be started as suc-
cession crops. When placed on warm
tan or leaves (in which soot and lime
have been mixed to eradicate slugs),
they grow freely, and are not so liable
to thrip or red-spider. When in flower,
much care is necessary to get them to
set freely. Sion House, Osborns, Wil-
liams, and Newington Wonder, are
among the most ])roductive kinds
which we know of. Asparagus may
be lifted carefully and placed thickly
together on a bed of warm leaves ;
cover with a few inches of light soil,
water with tepid water, keep close
till it is well up, and give air as it in-
creases in size. Beware of too much
heat to burn the roots, and if kept too
warm and close overhead the produce
will be tasteless. Seakale, where early
ripened and ready for forcing, may be
started at any time. A quantity of
roots dug up carefully and placed in
darkness anywhere, with a temperature
of 55'' to ij5°, will start and come into
use in good time. Pots placed over
crowns in the old-fashioned way, with
warm leaves and litter, answer well for
bringing it forward. Some like Seakale
forced in this way so much, that they
willallownoothermethodtobe putinto
practice for forcing it. Overheating
of the forcing material must be guarded
against. Rhubarb may be forced any-
where; it requires no blanching, and
may be brought forward by the aid of
a box placed in a kitchen or cellar.
In vineries, under stages of plant-
houses, manure-heated frames, and pits,

i88i.]

CALENDAR.

529

are some of the means applied to force
this useful esculent. Chicory is forced
similar to Seakale, but requiring little
heat : it must be well blanched.
Mushrooms should be plentiful now
where there are means to grow them.
Horse - manure partially dried and
beaten firmly into a bed about a foot
deep, spawned, and covered with loam
about 2 inches thick over the sur-
face, will give good mushrooms in
the course of a mouth or six weeks.
When the bed shows signs of dryness,
water moderately with tepid water.
Mushrooms do best in an even tem-
perature from 50° to 60^, but we have
known them do well in a temperature
down often from 35" to 40^ at night.
Young Carrots sown in September will
soon be fit to draw. Thin them out
as they are required for use. Those
in the borders may have ashes or old
tan placed among them, leaving the
tops standing clear. A frame with a
gentle bottom-heat, on which has been
placed 6 or 8 inches of soil, may be
sown with Short Horn or Early Xantes.
The seed may be sprinkled in drills
in the usual way, and covered with
fine soil. Potatoes, early ripened,
may be placed in heat on moss turves,
in boxes on soil, or otherwise, to
sprout for early planting. A gentle
bottom-heat (^ay 55° or less), over
which is placed some good soil (turfy
loam and leaf-mould answers well),
and the tubers which have been well
matured, planted, and covered lightly
at first, may turn in well early in the
season. They require all the light
and air possible, frost and rain only
being excluded ; tubers, placed singly
in 7 or 8 inch pots, half filled with
soil, may be put on the way to grow.
They (the pots) may be earthed uj)
with soil as the Potato - tops make
progress. Potatoes planted in July
to give "new" tubers may be pro-
tected with a frame to keep the tops
growing as long as they are of use to
the tubers. When they are killed
down suddenly by frost, the Potatoes
are watery and tasteless. There is a
false value put on many items of this
character, which is unwarrantable.
Peas in frames and pits, whether
planted out or in pots, require all the
air possible ; to attempt to drive them
forward with much heat is simply
labour in vain. Radishes grow easily
in light soil, placed over gentle warmth,

under the protection of a frame ; they
do not stand much forcing. Lettuce
and Eodive may be carefully lifted
with good roots, and placed thickly
into pits ready for use. Endive may
be kept close and shaded with mats to
blanch it ; slates or boards placed over
it answer the purpose fairly. Frames
in which are young Cauliflower for
early use may have abundance of air
and light ; drenching rain should be
kept out. Plants under hand-lights
on ridges must not be coddled, other-
wise failure may be expected. Toma-
toes in pots, or planted out, must be
kept near the glass, allowed to bear
moderately, and when in full fruit,
with plenty of roots in the pots, liquid
manure may be given clear and pure.
Mustard and Cress may be sown in
boxes as often as required ; two or
three successions ought to be on the
way ; give plenty of air when the pro-
duce is getting ready for use. Thread
Onions are grown in a similar man-
ner, but they will not stand heat when
they are well through the soil. We
need hardly add that forcing of all
kinds of vegetables should be treated
according to nature as much as possible,
except those which are blanched, and
they will not be good if grown in an
impure atmosphere.

Digging and trenching up vacant
ground to the action of frost may be
done as circumstances will allow, but
in well - appointed gardens there is
little vacant ground at this season.
In old gardens a little subsoil brought
to the surface and mixed with the old
well - manured soil, may be of great
benefit in giving fresh life to the
ground ; light sandy soil brought up
among strong clay land is very useful
in freshening it, and the same with
heavy soil brought to a light surface.
Manure may be wheeled where re-
quired, laid in ridges, and covered
with soil till it is used, which saves
its virtues, and prevents unsightliness
in the garden. Asparagus not already
cleaned and dressed for the winter
may have attention as early as pos-
sible. Peas and Beans may be sown
on warm borders. The seed sown on
the surface, in rows, and covered with
fine soil, is a good plan ; but on damji
cold soil this practice seldom suc-
ceeds. The use of frames for protec-
tion of February and March sowings
suits most places. Protect Artichokes

530

THE GARDENER

[Nov. i8Si.

with Utter rounil the collars of the
plants. ( 'oal-ashes answers the pur-
pose by throwint,' oil" (laiii[) and exchul-
ing frost. Have litter in readiness to
protect Celery, if severe weather should
set in ; damp harboured among the
plants rots them quickly. The cover-
ing of litter should not remain on the
Celery after a thaw sets io. Cauli-
flower and Broccoli turning in may be
lifted to pits, outhouses, or slieds, to
save them from severe frost. Broccoli
growing strong and long in the stocks,
may be heeled over with the heads to
the north. Some have much confi-
dence in this old practice, others
have none ; on very wet heavy land
we do not think the practice very
satisfactory. Spinach and Turnips
may be further thinned if they re-
quire it. Keep them free of weeds,

and have the surface of the soil well
hoed when weather is dry. Repair-
ing of walks, where such exist, may
have attention, and fresh gravel
given where it is required. Drain-
ing may have attention. Turning of
manure heap?, collecting soil and
leaves, may be labour well spent.
Repair or re-])lant liox edgings where
necessary. All renovations may be
advanced at this season when weather
will allow.

Renew herb ground, if required, by
trenching and replanting the roots.
Lift Mint, Taragon, and other herbs
for forcing if wanted. Seeds may be
looked over and cleaned during in-
clement weather, and roots examined.
Have a store of roots in reserve against
frosty weather.

M. T.

floticcs tcr Correspanti^nts.

All business communications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in the ' Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlanrig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which .should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We
decline noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and
address of writer.

J. B. — We do not think the plan you speak of would stamp out the Potato-
disease. The spores would still be here, we fear for a much longer time — a
few years.

T. F. — Sea Eagle and Barrington.

A. B.— There is no doubt the deplorable state of your Grapes is caused by
the roots being injured by stagnant water.

J. G. — Certainly not.

THE

GARDENER.

DECEMBER 1881.

NOTES.

I PEAKING for a moment of Andre's new scarlet AntLurium,
alluded to in my "Notes" of the November number of
the ' Gardener,' I forgot to say that it was at Mr Bull's
nursery where I saw this plant so fine. Such an impres-
sion did its big spathes and great velvety green leaves
make upon me, that I specially took my wife to see them, — she, while
not unmindful of other duties, being — as all gardeners' wives should
ever be — deeply interested in plants and flowers. I think, if I were
M. Andre, I should make a special pilgrimage from Paris to Chelsea
to see my foundling ; for of all men there are few who have more
interest and affection for a plant than has the man who collected
it, or introduced it for the first time into Europe. What a blaze
that plant will make amongst the white-flowered Orchids when more
plentiful, — when the little guinea and two guijiea plants now so
numerous become strongly established ! And yet another word on the
potentialities of the thing. "A little bird whispered to me'' of the
" lots of seed " hanging on the spadices of this Anthurium in another
place, adding maliciously, "I'll not say with what they were fertilised."
Naughty, tantalising little bird ! May your softest perch be a furze
bush, and I hope the servant may give you buckwheat-chaft' instead
of hemp-seed for your supper ! Even then may " no song no supper"
be your lot until the crack of doom, bad birdie !

Of all the notes in the last number of the ' Gardener,' none could
possibly be more interesting, or more to the point, than that on page
524, referring to Calanthe Veitchii, and its pale and dark varieties.

2 m

5^-2 TllK GARDENER. [Dec.

Here we liave botli forms, and I can corroborate the facts of the case ;
as also does Mr H. Kui^'ht (in * Gard. Chron./ Nov. 5, p. 594), now of
Greenlands, Henley-on-Thames. Facts of such practical import are
especially useful at the present time — indeed at all times — seeing that
a good variety is as easily and as cheaply grown as a bad one, the
ultimate results being in every way superior ; i.e., one thus by good
selection obtains what one may fairly call a heavy additional interest
upon the same amount of capital.

The late Provost RusseFs collection of Orchids seems to have been
formed on similar lines — best varieties only being retained. And of
all the collections of cultivated Orchids I ever saw, his, as originally
formed at Mayfield, near Falkirk, was by far the best in point of
culture.

Of all Orchids now^ in flower, there are but few that can in any way
equal the old double-sheathed Cattleya labiata, which generally with
us puts in its appearance about the first week in November. This is
of course the true old "autumnal flowering" variety, — as superior to all
other Cattleyas of the labiata and Warneri sections, as is the true
Cypripedium Maulei to our old and ever-welcome friend, C insigne.
Our Cattleya labiata, with four enormous rich rose-petalled flowers on
each of its stout spikes, is now the gem of our little collection — an
excellent form of the Tiger Odontoglot, Odontoglossum grande,
serving as a remarkable contrast with it in point of colour.

Now that selection is the rule, here is a short list of Cattleyas worth
having : Cattleya Exoniensis, C. labiata (true), C. Mendelii, C. Dowiana,
C. aurea, and C. gigas. Strong pieces of these obtained now, and well
grown for ten years, or even less than that terra, would yield a good
return on capital and labour if then sold. Orchids are to-day more
plentiful than ever, and yet at no period in the history of their culti-
vation did really sound specimens of good varieties fetch more money
when disposed of.

Looking over some wonderful dried specimens of big Pitcher-plants
(Nepenthes) some time ago in an "upper room" in the Chelsea
nurseries of Messrs Veitch, I was not very much surprised when one
gentleman present exclaimed, " Why, dear me, the day of really fine
Pitcher-plants is yet to come ! " And such, without a doubt, is the
fact of the matter. It is not every one who goes into that " upper
room." I suppose a blank cheque, all signed and delivered, would
not get some people within fifty yards of the stairs, charmed they
never so wisely. Ah, my friend, a wonderful place is that "upper
room," with its little bales of what Schlieden playfully called " hay
for the botanical asses ; " its clusters of big pitchers, of marvellous
size and form, to which here and there hang in rustic caligraphy, in
black pencil or ink, on curious sun-stained paper, the description of

i88i.] NOTES. 533

colour and habitat, as given by the hand of the collector who plucked
them from marsh or mountain-side.

"Oh ! but I say, isn't this a wopper?" (the speaker being a Cam-
bridge man accounts for the classical and expressive language.) The
" wopper" in question was a pitcher of N. Rajah — the giant Pitcher-
plant of Kina Balu or " Chinese Widow Mountain " in Borneo. And
certainly that pitcher "was big," as the American said when he heard
of a 40-foot conger-eel from a "go-to-meetin' Injun." Anent that
" upper room," I was once talking with a man who has reaped many
honours and rewards as an artist, but whose heart, instead of being
"in the Highlands" or "over the water,'' is generally in his garden,
"Of all men, I envy only one," said he, "and that is Mr Harry
Veitch." " And why Mr Veitch 1 " I asked. " Why ! do you say ? and
you a lover of plants ! Why ! why, because with his something like a
dozen collectors raking the ends of the world for him, his mails of
letters and specimens, the hopes and discoveries of these enthusiasts
must be delightful. Talk of the gardening papers, forsooth ! why, with
that man's letters before me, I would not execute a commission for
the biggest and richest cotton man I ever saw until I had read every
line of them ! "

I hope, now that this same Nepenthes Rajah has appeared in public,
and has "won his spurs " in the shape of a first-class certificate from
the Royal Horticultural Society, that we may see him more often in
private. I am inclined to think that it will grow best in a basket of
fresh loam fibre and well-washed granite grit, with 7iot too much sphag-
num growing above. My plant, kindly presented by the owner of the
"upper room," did not grow half so well during the recent hot
summer weather ; but when chilly nights came, he shot away another
larger leaf or two, in a temperature and atmosphere where Odontoglots
and Masdevallias do well. And yet one must be careful during winter,
when cold houses run down so rapidly sometimes ; but in summer a
cool, moist, and moderately airy house seems to suit it well. A very
slight shading from direct sunlight is essential.

All growers of the " Queen of Autumn," otherwise known as the
Chrysanthemum, will now reap the results of their labour for the past
eight or ten months. Of white kinds, Mrs G. Rundle and Elaine are
now (Nov. 9) fairly in bloom, the latter being especially valuable as a
good pure white flower for bouquets and other decorative uses. The
finest whites for late use are Fair Maid of Guernsey, Ethel, Snowdrop,
Fleur de Marie, and Empress of India. Even beneath sunny walls
White Queen and St Mary are yet very lovely, and afford good blooms
for the flower-basket. Of yellows, Mrs Dixon (golden) and George
Glenny (sulphur) — both sportive relations of !Mrs Rundle — are good.
Mr Brunlees is a good Indian red ; Angelina a good bronze or amber ;
Mr Bann also a fine yellow. And to contrast with the white and gold

b'M THE GARDENER. [l)i:c.

kinds, there are few of the more highly cohnired red or ruby-tinted
varieties that surpass Dr Sharpe as an early flower, although Progne
beats it in colour later in the season, and has, moreover, a delicate
perfume. Anent Dr Sharpe, I wish to say how much it resembles the
coloured plate in Ckirtis's * Botanical Magazine,' vol. x. p. 327, there
called C. indicum — perhaps wrongly so, since C. indicum seems to
have belonged to the small-flowered race, or Pompone kinds. This
plate and our Dr Sharpe are identical (both showing a fair double
crimson-})ur])le flower with quilled florets) — rather interesting, seeing
that the plate in the 'Magazine' was published as long ago as 1796.
This curious coincidence is suggestive. Has this old variety lived
through all the cultural vicissitudes of nearly a century 1 Or has
it been recently "raised" over again from seed, and sent out as
"new" by some modern grower? In other words, who was the
raiser, sponsor, or distributor of Dr Sharpe — who " sent him out ? "

When in London a few weeks ago, I visited Messrs Low's Clapton
nursery, and there saw such a collection of Orchids as "made my mouth
water," — if I may be permitted to use so expressive and familiar a
quotation. The Phalaenopsis house, a low span-roofed structure of large
area, is crowded with — I was going to say £5 Bank of England notes,
but I mean with what is pretty much the same thing after all —
established plants of Phalaenopsis in the most sturdy health and
vigour of growth and flower-spikes. Taken in the mass, P. Schiller-
iana is most largely represented. Would that the genial Orchid-loving
old consul could just now peep in at Clapton to see his namesake in
such healthy profusion ! How his thoughts would travel back to the
time when a tiny plant opened its spike of two flowers in his collection
at Hamburg for the first time ! There are also the varieties casta,
and leucorrhada; even a plant or two of Veitchii has bloomed in
this batch, and the variation of leaf, outline, and markings is so
diverse that one irresistibly longs for a cheque-book or a supply of
the aforesaid Bank of England paper, so that a few of the most
" taking " specimens might be ours.

P. amabilis is another kind largely represented, together with other
species less common. To attempt to describe these plants is useless ;
and speaking from experience, I advise all Orchid-growers, amateurs
or otherwise, to accept Mr Low's published invitation to go and see
for themselves. Of other Orchids the following may be especially
noted as being represented in quantity. Of Odontoglossum Alexandras
and 0. Pescatorei I am afraid to say how many thousands I saw here :
to say that several large houses are entirely filled with its bulbs in all
stages of growth is but little more satisfactory. As near as I can
judge, however, and supposing that the plant was hardy in our climate,
(as it pretty nearly is), there are now as many at the Clapton nursery

i8Si.] NOTES. 535

as would plant two acres of land at a foot apart every way ; or say in
round numbers, close upon 100,000 ! I may be wrong, of course. I
hope I am partly so, and that Mr Low has sold half of them since I
saw them. Laelia purpurata, Zygopetalum maxillare, Cattleya Trianiae,
C. Mendelli, C. Dowiana, C. dolosa, and other kinds, were also there
in batches ; not " little bits," but fine healthy masses, with latent
force enough in the great fat pseudo - bulbs to make specimens
of them in good hands. Of Dendrobium heterocarpum var. philip-
pinense I saw a long side stage filled with hundreds of plants, the
whole facing a bank of delicate primrose-coloured flowers. Cypriped-
ium Stonei, and the still more rare C. laevigatum, Aerides Leeanum,
A. suavissimum, A. quinquevulnerum, and many other kinds too
numerous to name, were all there in fine condition.

Of neat and pretty little trailing-plants for a window or cool green-
house, I have one now in my mind's eye (and, thanks to Mr Moore of
Glasnevin Gardens, in the greenhouse also), that is of all things to be
desired. I allude to the " blue-flowered Shamrock," (anent which
English name I am confident, having had it direct from the maker
thereof), or as it is known of the botanist, Parochaetus communis.
For the benefit of those who do not know the plant under either of
the above names, I will liken it in habit to a plant of white Clover,
also supposing that instead of the bossy heads of many white flowers,
only one blossom is produced at each axil of the creeping stem, and
that one blossom of the size and colour of that of the " Chick Pea " or
Chickling Vetch, yclept Lathyrus sativus in ye Latin, as opposed to
the vulgar tongue. Now small blue Sweet-Pea-like flowers borne on
slender stalks 2 or 3 inches high above a Clover-like tuft of trefoil
leaves, is, as I take it, a great, if somewhat old-fashioned rarity; and
as such I hereby most heartily commend it to all who care for plants
of interest apart from bold colour efl"ects. I also give due notice to
Mr Ware of Tottenham (the Hall-Farm nursery of that place), "so
that he may be able to serve to such as may desire to have the same."

The writer of these notes hereby confesses to a love for what he
considers one of the fairest beauties of a good spring garden. In
plain words, he alludes to his fondness for Anemones of all kinds — A.
alpina, sulphurea, fulgens, purpurea, blanda, Robinsoniana ; and last,
but not least, the common garden Anemone, single and double,
"delighteth him beyond all measure," as Parkinson (or is it Gerarde?)
says of them. I allude to them as fair in the spring time ; but a
good fairy (of which there are yet many in Ireland) brought to me on
Friday, the 4th day of November last, a bunch of double and semi-
double garden Anemones such as I, during half a lifetime affectionately
spent in gardens, have rarely seen equalled even in the spring. They
were grown on the Hill of Howth, a sunny spot on the warm side

536 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

of Dublin pjay. Some of the flowers were nearly 4 inches across,
and all but as double as a good Ranunculus, each rosette being borne
aloft on a stout stalk nearly a foot in height, — the elegant frill of bracts
below the blossom adding a befitting garniture of greenery beneath the
flower. In colour they varied from purple, rose, lilac, magenta, crimson,
scarlet, through all the more delicate shades of pink, rose, and salmon,
into nearly pure white. Some kinds had broadly cupped and others
had narrow lance-shaped petals, but all were bright and beautiful,
quite putting to shame some of our highest coloured Chrysanthemums
with which I compared them. On first seeing them, I mistook them
for artificial flowers cleverly made and artistically stained with the most
vivid of coal-tar or aniline dyes. " Oh, shades of Judson ! " thought I
on further examination ; " why, old Dame Nature can beat thee hollow ;
ah ! and in November too.'' Then after enjoying my excitement, the
good fairy, yclept for the nonce St Brigid, told me how I might grow
these lovely blossoms for myself, — the secret being, to obtain good
seed and to sow it early in autumn, taking great care to place a thick
layer of cow-manure a few inches below the surface of the bed upon
which the seeds are to be sown. Another point is not to cover the
seeds too thickly with earth ; and again, during hot summer weather,
waterings of cow-manure water strengthen the young growing plants
amazingly. A strong point in growing these flowers from seed is
never to allow the seedlings to suffer any check whatever, but to grow
them on strongly and quickly up to the flowering stage.

HINTS FOR AMATEURS.

HARDY FRUITS.

The planting of all kinds of fruit-trees is safer where the work is completed,
all mulched, and made secure against wind : many are not ready to plant
before this season, and others prefer leaving it to spring ; but we have a strong
objection, for many reasons, to planting fruit-trees or shrubs between Decem-
ber and February. What is known as winter pruning is the removal of the
useless growths, crowded spurs, and old bearing wood, to admit of laying in
fresh. As much as possible of this work may have been done in summer and
autumn pruning. Cut close to a wood-bud, and leave nothing to die back,
where crowding threatens. The worst formed branches or shoots should be
removed. The wounds should be cut smooth. With standards (especially
large orchard-trees), upright branches left, crossing ones cut clean out, and cen-
tres open, is the summary of the pruning of such farces. With the limited
space of gardens, specially of the small amateur class, the work is of a dif-
ferent character, and upright bush or pyramid-formed trees are best : where
they have been kept to size and form by keeping the roots within bounds, and
in a mass of fibre, the pruning is a very light operation. The branches
are then in a mass of fruit-spurs, and a little shortening of current year's
growths, removing worn-out spurs, and clearing off anything that is dead, are
the chief wants of such trees. Mulching them may be of great advantage.

i88i.] HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 537

Where any show signs of canker, or shoots dying back, it is certain that
they are in unhealthy soil. The feeders may have penetrated into a depth far
from heat and air, and are perishing. Bringing them up to the surface,
spreading them out nicely into fresh soil, covering 6 inches, and mulching
with manure, will do much towards restoring them, and keeping them
healthy and fruitful. If brickbats, stones, or concrete are used to prevent
the roots from going downwards at planting, much labour may be saved in
future. We have lifted a wall of Apricots, Plums, and Cherries this autumn ;
and under them'were placed a quantity of broken brick, lime-rubbish, and turfy
soil on the top of it. All are well covered with clean loam, and mulched to
keep out frost and drought. Such trees ought to go on for many years with-
out showing any signs of gross barren wood ; and such wood on Apricots is at
all times in danger of dying off. The Apricot is one of the hardiest trees
known, and one which requires most fresh air; but when the roots get into
soil such as is well known to be foreign to them — cold wet clay, for example
— " dying oflf " may be seen at any time. We often have remarked that they
may be met with doing well year after year with no skilled training, but then
the roots are where they have their natural food, and make up for a deal
of neglect otherwise. By all means train as elegantly and skilfully as
possible. While doing the one thing, see that the primary requirements
(that of the roots) are not neglected. Firm, rocky soil, with a fair amount of
lime in it, is very suitable to Apricots ; in fact, all stone-fruits do well in
such soil. All bush-fruits may be pruned and mulched with good manure.
Where there are signs of exhaustion in the bushes, they should be lifted and
planted in good soil well enriched. Gooseberries do well with such a change.
When pruning bush-fruits it is well to remove a few of the older branches
every year, and introduce a number of young ones. The plants are then
always in vigour, and fit for their work. It is of much importance to trees to
scrape moss or other vegetation from their,, bark, and a good washing of
lime, and some soot to darken it, applied to destroy insects. A good dressing of
rich soil and manure may be given after old inert soil is removed. The drain-
ing of orchards or gardens for benefiting fruit-trees should have attention at
earliest convenience. Do no work of this kind without a just reason : to
do it at random is worse than useless,

FLOWER-GARDEN.

Climbers on walls and wire-work should be regulated, and what training
is required may be done without delay. It would be diflBcult to state how all
plants should be pruned, but as a general principle, none should be allowed
to become crowded or matted. Some kinds, such as Jasmines, do well
when spurred ; others cannot be touched with the knife to be of any service,
except the whole of the old shoots are cut out and replaced with young ones ;
but to leave them alone is to allow them to run wild and become worthless.
It is better to fix nails to remain permanently, and tie the branches to them, than
to use shreds, and be driving nails often. Wires to train climbers to are
the most economical, and always most sightly.

The planting of Crocus, Tulips, Hyacinths, Narcissus, Jonquils, Scillas, and
other bulbs, should be finished as early as possible ; and all plants considered
in danger of being injured by frost should be protected by Ferns or fine coal-
ashee. Old tan is useful for the purpose. Clean, trim, and replant herba-
ceous plants not already done. Those which have been marked early in the

538 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

season to have their positions changed may now be attended to. A herba-
ceous border to be eilcetive must be arranged with consummate care. Dwarf
kinds smothered up by tall growers — scattering roots through the ground
when digging is going on— allowing them to unduly monopolise space, — are
some of the evils tiot imcomraon in the management of herbaceous borders.
If they have become much deranged, it is best to lift all the plants, arrange
them in order on spare ground, trench and manure the border in which they
are to be planted, and i)laoe them in their position, with plenty of space
between each.

Herbaceous ]>lants look well in groups arranged on carpets of Sedum, or
some other dwarf covering to the soil. Beds edged with such plants as
Arabis and others may be prepared and planted with shrubs or spring-flower-
ing plants. They should have the same care as to keeping as given to sum-
mer bedders.

Rolling and sweeping will require much attention till all the loaves are ofT
the trees. Turfing, walk-turning, gravelling, and all such work, may have
attention when it can be done. All shrub-planting not completed this month
had better stand over till February and onwards. Evergreens do well till
April. They are then about to push into growth, and move on unchecked.
Avoid planting out of views or cutting up greensward. Curtailing lawns,
by cutting up the space into beds, is not uncommon, but very objectionable ;
and many places, large and small, are ruined by it.

EOSE-GAKDEN.

A long chapter might be written on Roses at this season, their general
treatment is so varied in certain localities : kinds which do well ia some
soils, may be seen in others half dead with mildew. But writing on these
difficulties to any extent will do no good to any one who does not cope with
them on the spot, and use legitimate means to secure the end in view. A
few general remarks, by way of remembrance, are offered. Roses require deej)
well cultivated soil : free drainage (natural or artificial). Rotten cow-manure
suits well where soil is light, as a general manuring or for mulching. Where
soil is heavy and tenacious, rotten horse-manure (being more open) is very
suitable. Where roots can run free unchecked, mildew is less formidable.
The plants consume much nutriment while in active growth, and liquid
manure tells wonderfully on their growth and flowers too ; but when stagnant
water harbours about them, in winter especially, they have a sorry appearance
during the summer. Now being a good time for planting, selections should
be made instead of collections. Roses are scarce this year, and very expen-
sive. Many good nurseries were almost cleared out last year. Pruning is a
matter for consideration, when the severest of the weather is past. Good
mulching is always of much service, both for protection and nutriment to the
plants. Those grafted or budded close to the roots of stocks should be
planted under the junction, and the mulching to fit closely to the collars.
Tea and other tender Roses are protected very simply by lifting them and
placing their roots safely in any light soil in frames or turf pits. Trained
Roses, of the tender kinds, can be easily protected by Fern or Spruce branches.

rLANT-STRUCTUEES.

Chrysanthemums will be gay to end of month. They then should be
hardened gradually for the supply of cuttings. Most plants date their success
from the cutting or seedling stage. Azaleas, Camellias, and some of the stock

i88i.] WINTER FLOWERS. 539

of forced plants will take the place of Chrysanthemums, where there are means
to bring forward the numerous plants often referred to for conservatory decora-
tion. Better to err on the side of low temperature at this season than the
reverse — small batches taken in often, are preferable to large quantities at
longer periods. All plants to be forced should be under protection of some
kind. " Never take frozen plants into heat ; all forcing should be gradual,
and as natural as possible. At all times take every advantage of sun-heat.
Greenhouse plants of the hardwood class should have plenty of air when
weather is mild. Use fire-heat to expel damp, and the temperature need
not fall much below 40°. About 45°, all other things being equal, will suit
most plants in the daytime — at night 6° or so less in severe weather is all
the better for the plants. Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Cyclamens, and Pelar-
goniums require plenty of light and air, and damp must not be confined in
the structure. The last named may be kept drier and more airy tLan the
others. Mildew must have no place, but have sulphur dusted over it.
Vermin and decaying matter must not be seen. In stoves the treatment
varies little from last month : numbers of the plants grown specially for
Christmas decoration will now be well forward. Among the chief of them
are Poinsettias, Begonias, Euphorbias, Scutellaria?, Calanthes, &c. Gloxinias
may be started if wanted early — also xVchimenes, a few Caladiums, and others.
Mixed stoves may be very " quiet " at this season. Temperatures need not
be over 55° at night, and 60° by day. Thrips are always very active at this
season : keep the sponge going. M. T.

WINTER FLOWERS.

Conservatories should be brilliant now with flowering-plants, and at
no season of the year — not even during the summer — do flowers present
such a bright and cheerful appearance. When the days are shortening
fast, and assume their most dismal aspect, conservatories and other
houses kept gay with flowering-plants are generally places of resort ;
and frequently much time is spent in these structures during the
winter, especially by ladies. Under such circumstances it behoves
gardeners to render them as attractive as possible. Cleanliness is of
the utmost importance, and in such places even extra precautions
should be taken ; if dirty they cannot be enjoyable. The glass and
woodwork should be clean, and not a green or dirty pot to be found.
The stages on which flowering-plants are arranged should be gone over
every morning when the watering is being attended to, and all sickly
leaves and decaying flowers should be removed. These houses should
be, by the time employers are ready to visit them, clean and beautiful.
If directions previously given in the 'Gardener' have been carried
out, there will be no scarcity of flowers, but abundance, and in good
variety.

Early and hard forcing of Azaleas, Camellias, Rhododendrons, and
other plants, can be avoided, if a judicious system of preparation
of suitable kinds has been carried out during the summer. How-

540 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

ever beautiful Azaleas may appear during tlie early autumn months
when placed amongst other flowering-plants, it is not really neces-
sary to have them in flower before Christmas, as plenty of others may
be had in bloom, by which a brilliant and bountiful supply of flowers
can be produced. It is wise to delay the forcing of such plants, if
they can be spared, so as to give them as complete a season of rest
as possible. A good plan is to train and prepare a few Azaleas in
case any failure should occur in the growing of other easier subjects.
If not wanted they can readily be retarded, and will afterwards, when
placed in warmth, quickly unfold their flowers. In forcing Azaleas
or Rhododendrons into bloom, the operation should be gradual, so as
to excite them gently into activity, and then allow the flowers to ex-
pand under as cool conditions as the plants will bear without check
or injury. When unfolded under such circumstances they not only
possess better colour and substance, but last longer, both for decora
tion and cutting. Flowers generally are in great demand about
Christmas — especially white ones, which are eagerly sought after at
that festive season. Unfortunately we do not possess a good double
w^hite Pelargonium that will produce flowers freely at that time —
in fact none of the varieties are of much service for either autumn
or winter. I have tried P. candidissima jjleno, Madame Baltet,
Nymphe, and others : these are three of the best that can be grown
in their season, but next to useless for the dark days of winter. If
preference can be given to either, it is the last named. Double
white Primulas are invaluable, and should be grown in quantity,
as there is no comparison between the double and single forms for
cutting purposes. White Azaleas are indispensable, and the following
should be largely grown for the supply at Christmas : A. indica alba
and A. narcissiflora, a beautiful semi-double flower, even earlier than
the old white. Some cultivators imagine that A. indica alba has to
be grown a long time before it will flower profusely on its own roots,
but this is a mistake. It will bloom splendidly in 5-inch pots — a
capital size in which to grow it ; but if potted on and allowed plenty
of root-room, it will produce strong, long shoots, which are bare of
leaves by the time it has rested or come into flower. This straggling
habit can to a large extent be prevented, if kept in the size of pots
mentioned, and pruned over once or twice after flowering. When
worked on small stems this variety assumes a more compact head.
The blooms are grand for using in many positions for church decora-
tion, especially for furnishing the bases of windows. If green moss
can be obtained, and the base covered with it, and the flowers dotted
into it singly, and a drop of water placed in the centre of each flower,
they remain fresher and last longer. It is not necessary to cut any
wood with the flower, the tiny stem being sufficient.

For flowering at this season of the year Pelargoniums are amongst
the most striking, and will, when properly treated, flower through the

i8Si.] WINTER FLOWERS. 541

whole winter. Old Vesuvius is unrivalled for a profusion of Howers.
Its trusses are considerably smaller than many others ; but the free-
dom with which they are succession ally produced more than com-
pensates for the deficiency. Many large-trussing kinds are very good,
and give great satisfaction during the autumn. When gigantic con-
servatories have to be kept a blaze of bloom during the winter, and
house-room for bringing the material into bloom is limited, selection
is of the utmost value. My aim is to obtain plants that will bloom
over the longest period of time, according to the temperature and other
conditions that can be given. White Vesuvius is a good companion to
the scarlet variety, and equally free here. Apple Blossom and Aida,
which are very much alike— the flowers of the latter being a little more
pink — are in consequence worth growing. The flowers of either variety
individually would not please the florist "proper," for the petals are
loose and anything but a good shape. They nevertheless answer our
purpose, by flowering freely and continuously for a long time. The
trusses are large and contrast well with the above. Rev. S. Stanhope
and Charles Schwind do well, and the stock will be increased. Sophie
Birchin, a distinct mottled salmon flower of fine form and substance,
does well under the same treatment as Vesuvius. Fanny Catlin and
Laura Strachan are good salmons ; but where the first-named is grown
the latter can be dispensed with. Amongst pinks a variety named
Harry Turner is the favourite — being a good-shaped flower, and the
trusses are freely produced all winter. Arthur Pearson is free, and
promises well ; also Mrs Strutt— the flower being rather loose but very
large. Mrs Skipworth, Lady Byron, Lady Sheffield, and Mrs Findley,
are pleasing colours and fair flowers — a few plants only of each being
grown. The semi-doubles are a most useful class — Wonderful being
free and most worthy of extensive cultivation. Others have been re-
commended to me as being better ; certainly Raspail makes a larger
truss, and is of a much darker shade of colour, but lacks freeness.
Guillon Mangilli is very fine for winter, and free, and should be grown
in quantity. E. South is a better flower, and of a deeper colour, and
is a grand companion plant. These two require more heat, and do not
draw up weakly like other varieties : Wonderful soon draws and be-
comes straggling, if subjected to too much heat. Madame Thibaut is
a good pink double of dwarf habit, and flowers very freely during the
early autumn months.

A few of the Hybrid Cape Pelargoniums, or Echinatums, should be
grown for autumn and winter : they are beautiful for cutting and con-
servatory decoration, and are very easy to grow, being in no way
particular either to soil or treatment. If treated in the same way as
Zonal Pelargoniums they do remarkably well ; and if potted up dur-
ing March and placed in a little warmth, they flower through the
whole summer and well on into winter. After flowering they can be
placed under the stage and kept dry for a long time. When potted

542 TIIK GARDENER. [Dec.

up, the old soil sliould be shaken from the roots and the plants placed
in smaller pots, potting on afterwards as they require it. After they
are fairly started they can either be grown indoors or outside, with the
stock of Zonals for winter, until housing time. A little heat in autumn
soon brings them into flower, and they continue to do so all winter. For
button-hole bouquets or cutting, no plants are more serviceable.

Chrysanthemums will be gay until Christmas, if properly treated
after the buds are formed, and late kinds selected and left outside
longer than the general stock. The beauty of Souvenir de Malanche
should be pressed upon the minds of all growers of these plants. For
flowering from the end of October and through November, no other
variety I am acquainted with can surpass it. Its flowers — which are
of the purest white when fully expanded — and the freedom with which
they are produced, recommend for it a foremost place. It will stand
gentle forcing ; but if housed as soon as the buds are formed, the plants
will be in bloom about the middle of October. Its habit is dwarf, and
it retains its foliage much better than any other kind that I know.
When once grown, the white Cedo nulli would quickly be discarded.
The flowers are much after the style of Elaine, and resemble in minia-
ture that beautiful w^hite variety. Wm. Bardney.

MUSHROOM- CULTURE.

Throughout the winter months few garden productions, in the way of
eatables which pass through the kitchen, are more acceptable or highly
valued than Mushrooms. When outside vegetables are scarce, as they
have been in many instances during the last two or three winters, a
good supply of Mushrooms will be found most useful, as they can be
used in a variety of ways at the dinner-table, and form substitutes for
many other things ; and many are anxious to have them frequently for
breakfast too. Altogether they must be regarded as the most useful
of our crops at this season of the year ; and fortunate are they who
have the means of producing abundance of them. Although we have
heard some assert that they could grow Mushrooms in an old hat, or
shoe, or anywhere, I hardly agree w^ith this, and think that reasonable
means for their culture must be provided. Material for making beds
is of less importance than having a suitable house for growing them
in. In summer time, or during the warmest part of the year, they
may be grown out of doors or in a cool shed, or any place of the kind ;
but now, and from November until April, artificial heat is wanted in
their quarters. To secure this, many have thoroughly-heated struc-
tures ; but all are not so well ojff : the Mushrooms would be more certain
if they were. Here our Mushroom-house is heated with a flue, which
is capable of maintaining a high enough temperature so long as the out-
side elements are favourable ; but during severe weather the tempera-

i88i.] MUSHROOM-CULTURE. 543

ture fluctuates a good deal, and this is much against the Mushrooms.
A steady heat is most favourable to them, and this may sometimes vary
b° less or more from 60°, but never lower, and at times 70° is required to
bring them forward more quickly. Sometimes our temperature cannot
be raised above 40°, and this is a great disadvantage, as Mushrooms may
be checked in their growth like other things. A good layer of dry hay
thrown over the beds at such times is of great benefit. Still this is
never so satisfactory as having a good command of heat, and any one
putting up a Mushroom-house would find it much to his advantage to
see to this. Its form or position is not of very great importance ;
generally it is included with other sheds behind forcing-houses, and
this is very suitable. The most conveniently arranged house we have
had any experience of, is one with a pathway up the centre and a bed
on each side. The back is some five feet wide — which is a good width
for a Mushroom-bed, — and about four feet above this there is another
bed made of wood, of the same dimensions as the lower one, and in
this way two rows of beds can be made. To the front there is a vacant
space, which is filled up with fermenting material, and this answers ad-
mirably for bringing forward Rhubarb, Seakale, tfec, at the present time.
This hotbed manure also helps to keep up the temperature, and a nice
agreeable humidity is emitted from it. Besides this, sometimes small
beds can be made up here and there in comfortable corners, and these
often prove most useful. Whenever it is decided to make a bed to grow
Mushrooms, material for its composition must be found. At one time
it was generally thought that nothing but horse-droppings would pro-
duce Mushrooms, and much time was devoted in getting beds of this ;
but it is understood now that Mushrooms of the finest quality may be
had from beds with little or no horse-droppings in them. We have
proved this, and many others have done the same. In fact, the finest
Mushroom-bed we ever had has been bearing from July till now, and
three parts of it are leaves and turves, the remainder only being drop-
pings. At the same time it may be well to say, that had we abundance
of droppings at all times we would use them, but not wholly ; and the
want of droppings would not keep us from making a bed, as leaves
and turves and any other slightly fermenting materials would be used.
Lumps of fibrous loam are useful in all Mushroom-beds. It is surpris-
ing what a cluster of Mushrooms may sometimes be found coming out
of a nugget of loam. The material for the bed, whatever it may con-
sist of, should be moderately dry before being used ; but it must not
be too dry either, as much of the fertile matter is thereby lost. A
little experience will soon enable any one to tell when it is in proper
order, and then the bed must be made up. Firmness is one condition
of success. When put up loosely the heat soon escapes, and Mush-
rooms are not produced for long if there is not a little heat in the bed ;
the longer the heat lasts, the longer will Mushrooms appear. Its size
may be anything from one yard square. The larger it is the better ;

544 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

and a good depth, too, is an advantage, as this all tends to retain the
heat in the bed. We have found beds 18 inches or 2 feet deep bear
much longer than those half that depth ; and when material will allow,
there is nothing like making up a large, deep bed. Its size should be
ascertained before beginning, and a layer of stuff should be placed all
over the bottom first, and this repeated until the top is reached. As
each layer is put in it should be trodden down firmly with the feet.
After this the temperature in the bed will rise rapidly, and may reach
100° or more ; but the spawn must not be put iu' until the heat de-
clines to 80° or 85°.

Good spawn is most important, and such must be used, or no skill
will bring the Mushrooms. One of the ordinary squares may be
broken up into a dozen or more pieces ; and one of these should be
dibbled in every foot all over the bed, and about 3 inches below the
surface. The holes made in doing this will let out a good deal of
heat, and when there is rather too much heat in the bed this will
generally rectify it, especially if the holes are left open for a few days ;
but it is always best to close them up before the temperature is too far
down, which it would be at 60° or so. As soon as the spawn-holes are
shut up, the bed may be soiled over. Various textures of soil have
been recommended for this purpose, but we find the soil from any
ordinary kitchen-garden very suitable as a rule. It may be put on
to about the depth of 3 inches, and it must be beaten very firm, and
the surface should be made quite smooth with a spade. It is best
when the soil can be beaten into a complete cake all over the surface ;
but if this cannot be managed without water, a little should be applied
to the surface until it is quite moist, and beaten immediately after-
wards, when a smooth surface will be formed. From the time the bed
is spawned it may be five or more weeks until the first Mushrooms
appear. Sometimes we have had them in four weeks, and at other
times it has been double this, much depending on the quality of the
spawn and the temperature of the bed and house. To keep up a con-
stant supply, a bed should be made up every three weeks. When a
bed has been bearing for some considerable time, and shows signs of
flagging, a thorough soaking with water at a temperature of 85° will
often put new vigour into the old material, and a fresh crop will be
the result ; but of course this will not continue so long as in the first
instance. Snails often destroy many Mushrooms, and small worms
eat the best part of some ; but a slight sprinkling of salt thrown over
the bed at their first attack will generally stop them.

It may be added, that although Mushroom-culture in many instances
is one of the easiest of all our garden practices, it is not so in every
case, as failures sometimes occur where they are least expected, and
nothing is more obstinate than a Mushroom-bed, so that all precautions
should be taken in its preparation to reduce the chances of failure as
much as possible. J. MuiR.

Margam.

i88i.] DECORATIVE GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 545

NOTES ON" DECORATIVE G-REENHOUSE PLANTS.

THE CHOROZEMA.

The above genus of plants are natives of New Holland. The name is
from two Greek words (choros, a dance, and zema, a drink), and was
suggested to the discoverer by the fact that he found it growing near
some fresh water, after the party had been a considerable time without
any of that very necessary fluid, and the sight of which caused them
to dance for joy. The plant is a greenhouse evergreen, and is one of
the handsomest, as well as one of the most useful, of our greenhouse
plants. It is useful either for cutting, for decorative work, or for ex-
hibition ; in fact it is among the very best of exhibition plants. They
bear pruning well, so that should they at any time exceed the space
allotted to them, one need not be afraid to use the knife freely upon
them.

The soil best adapted to their wants consists of good fibry peat three
parts, turfy loam one part, a little charcoal, and a good sprinkling of
sharp sand added thereto. They root readily from cuttings of the
half-ripened side-shoots about midsummer, and treated in the usual
way ; but plants raised from seed are by far the best, and make the
finest specimens. The seed should be sown in March, and the pot or
pan plunged in a hotbed, and covered with a piece of glass, until the
seed begins to vegetate, when the glass may be removed. When the
young seedlings have made two pairs of leaves, they should be pricked
out singly into small pots, and replunged in the hotbed for a time, until
they begin to grow afresh. When the pots are filled with roots, they
must be shifted into larger ones, and so on, as they require it. They
should be pinched a few times when they are small, so as to induce them
to break into numerous shoots and form bushy plants. Their time of
flowering is from March to June. They can be set out of doors when
the weather becomes warm enough, choosing a sheltered place, and ex-
posed to the sun : the pots might be plunged among coal-ashes, which
will tend to prevent them from getting over-dry at any time. A winter
temperature of from 45° to 50° will suit them.

tetrathica verticillata.

The Tetrathica in habit of growth very much resembles the Cape
Heath, and the treatment generally given to the Heath will be found
to suit it pretty well. It is a native of New Holland, and was intro-
duced to this country about the year 1845. It is one of the choicest
of our greenhouse plants, and most useful either for house or con-
servatory defloration. As it naturally flowers during the months of
June and July, it is one of the best of plants for exhibition at that
time. It is not nearly so much grown as it deserves to be, for it is
worthy of a place in the most select collection of plants.

The soil best adapted to it consists of good fibry peat with a little

546 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

loam added, and plenty of silver sand, with a small quantity of char-
coal. It is essential that the plants should be potted firmly ; especi-
ally after they come to be in ])ots from 5 inches upwards, a rammer
should be used.

The plant is somewhat inclined to be of straggly habit of growth,
and therefore, in order to keep it in due bounds, and make a compact
specimen, the knife should be used pretty freely annually : it stands
pruning well, breaking away again freely.

It is propagated by cuttings of the side shoots, which should be \mt
in in the usual way, in silver sand, and under a bell-glass, and the pot
plunged in a gentle bottom -heat. The cuttings are very liable to
damp off, and therefore great care should be taken in drying up the
condensed moisture from the inside of the glass daily, until the cut-
tings are rooted. As soon as this takes place, they should be potted
off into thumb-pots, and replunged in the bed, which will help to pre-
vent the pots from getting dry so quickly, and thus save repeated
waterings. They should be kept pretty closely pinched when young,
so that a good foundation may be laid at first. As soon as the small
pots are filled with roots they may be shifted into 3-inch pots, and
this will carry them through the first season. In order to keep them
as dwarf as possible, they should be kept as near the glass as circum-
stances will permit. A temperature during winter of from 40° to 50°
will suit them, and care must be taken that they be not over-watered
during the dull winter months ; but, in avoiding this, care must also
be taken not to rush into the opposite extreme, and allow them to
suffer for want of a sufficient supply. After they have started into
growth again in spring, they may be shifted into say 5-inch pots, and
this will carry them through the second year. It is better to give
small shifts, and more frequently, rather than large shifts ; the plants
will thus be more easily kept in good health — the tendency of the roots
being to rush to the sides of the ball first. By small and frequent
shifts, the centre of the ball will also get filled with roots. During
the summer months the plants may be placed out of doors ; but the
pots should be plunged among coal- ashes, so that the sun may not
injure the roots which are in contact with the sides of the pot. They
should be housed again by the end of September. The after treat-
ment will consist of training, cutting them back when they get too
straggly, and in shifting them as they require it. J. G., W.

FRUIT-CULTURE.

Gooseberries and Currakts.

We have already said that, for small gardens, Gooseberries, Currants, Rasp-
berries, and Strawberries are more valuable than such fruits as Apples.
AVe are not sure but, as time rolls on, and competition with the foreigner

i88i.] FRUIT -CULTURE. Ml

becomes closer, that they will also be found to pay better even in the case
of growers for market. The leopard will have to change his spots and the
Ethiopian his skin, before fresh Strawberries can be brought from America ;
and as for Gooseberries, America cannot produce them well. Currants, in-
deed, are brought in quantities from the Continent, but we think that the
time cannot be far distant when these fruits shall be produced so abundantly
at home that Continental growers will be unable to compete. Our small
fruits, even in country districts, are extravagantly dear, considering that
there is so much land fit for their cultivation, for w^hich nominal rents
cannot be obtained. Every cottager may increase his income, and benefit
the community, by producing quantities of these small fruits ; for almost all
the work necessary may be done by members of his family — instead of, as now,
lamenting that machinery has monopolised the work that used to be done by
female and juvenile hands. There is plenty of work, if men would only
recognise the altered circumstances and adapt themselves accordingly.

This much by the way, however, and we only hope that these remarks may
fall into the hands of those for whom they are intended. In the meantime
our duty is to teach, as far as in us lies, how to grow these fruits to the
greatest perfection and in the greatest abundance.

Gooseberries.

Decidedly the Gooseberry ranks first. Nowhere in the world does the
Gooseberry grow to such perfection as in Great Britain. Not only so, but
few fruits are so useful ; for it is used for making sauce and tarts and jelly
when green, for jam when ripe, and it also forms a grateful and wholesome
dessert fruit in the latter state. Its uses are so well known that we need
not enlarge upon them.

Any good garden soil suits it, but it always pays to treat it well. In order
to do it justice, the ground should be trenched at least two spades deep, and
liberally manured with stable-yard manure. This may be done any time in
winter, and the bushes planted in spring ; but we prefer, especially on newly-
taken-in soil, to take one crop of early Potatoes off the ground first, and then
to plant in autumn. The working of the Potatoes gets the ground into ex-
cellent condition for Gooseberries ; and when they are planted on finely pre-
pared soil, from the middle of September to the middle of October, and
mulched, they root at once and make a fine start the following spring. Plants
put out in spring, especially on new, not very well prepared soil, do not make
nearly so good a start (even although the season should prove favourable) as
when put out under such conditions as we have named ; and instead of gaining
a season there is often a loss, for bushes which get stunted once, are ill to
start into good growth afterwards. Our advice, then, is to trench in winter,
take a crop of early Potatoes in summer, and work them well. After the
crop is off", fork the soil thoroughly (if light, tread it lightly when dry), and
plant the Gooseberry-bushes late in September or early in October, putting
afterwards a couple of spadefuls of manure over the roots to keep out frost in
winter, and drought in spring and summer. They should not be nearer in
the row than 5 feet, and 6 feet should be allowed between the rows.

If possible, plants with one-foot stems should be chosen, which are very
much better than those whose branches spring from the surface of the
ground. In planting them, the soil should be taken out and the roots spread
out in the same way as advised for fruit-trees. Huddling the roots into holes
too small to allow of their being properly spread out should be avoided.

2 N

548 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

The soil should be made liini round their roots; and if the spot on which they
are planted is exposed to high winds, each plant should be securely fixed to
a stake in a manner, and with material soft enouf^h, tliat no damage to the
bark of the stem or branches may result.

They are often planted in rows round walks, and alternately with Ai)ple
and other trees. In such positions they do very well, and serve to economise
space ; but the fruit will be better in quality if the bushes are in open
quarters, for they are not quite so good under the shade of other trees. For
tarts and other jiurposes for which green Gooseberries are used they are
equally good. Our advice, however, is to put everything in quarters by
itself, for thus a rotation of crops can be carried out, and this .should always
be kept in view.

Young plants only should be planted ; and in order to lay a good foundation
for the future bush they should be cut pretty well back. We prefer globular-
shaped bushes, with the branches regularly disposed all over the globe at a
distance of from 8 to 14 inches. It is of much importance that the sun and
air penetrate to every part of the bush, and therefore growths and spurs alike
must be kept clear of each other. Some people prefer cup-shaped bushes, but
there is no use haviug some square feet in the centre of each bush unoccupied
with branches. It is a waste of space, and no compensating good follows the
practice ; and with branches thinly disposed, the sun and air penetrate freely
enough to produce first-rate results. As nearly as possible all branches should
point directly and straightly from a common centre. Branches crossing
each other, or crooked and twisted, should not be tolerated.

The Gooseberry bears on spurs which are produced freely on the old
branches, and also on young wood. The best fruit is always on the young
wood, more especially when the spurs on the old wood are allowed to grow in
great thick crowded masses. Most Gooseberry-bushes in cottage gardens are
in this latter state. We never yet met the owner of a Gooseberry-bush who
did not consider himself a "don" at pruning Gooseberries. The universal
plan among cottagers (we are sorry to add, sometimes professional gardeners)
is to snap off every young shoot, and they thereby deprive themselves of any
good Gooseberries that might have been produced. The crowding spurs they
never touch — it is not in their plan. The result is, year after year, a great
swarm of miserable fruit, which, although numerically very great, is as a crop
(by weight) very small. Still the quantity is matter of much joy, and even
pride.

We have described how not to prune. Everybody with eyes can see the
resulting failure ; but it is simple, and hence its general adoption. The best
way is also simple, but requires more mental application. It is, in the first
place, to keep all spurs thin and close to the main branches. They should
never extend more than 1 or 2 inches, else crowding will result, and crowding
means miserable produce. The second rule is, to retain as much young wood
as possible. For this purpose all terminals should be left nearly full length.
Only the small or crooked points should be removed in those which grow
upright, and only the portion of the drooping kinds which point downwards.
Still, crowding must not be allowed. To secure a continual supply of young
wood without overcrowding, there must be a continual cutting out of old
branches, and a continual bringing forward of younger branches to take their
place. At the same time the bushes are not to be kept low. Gardens may be
restricted laterally, but few are so vertically. Then grow your bushes to the
height of 6 feet or more if you can. One G-feet Gooseberry-bush is worth.

i88i.] FRUIT -CULTURE. 549

three 2-feet ones, and occupies no more space. Some kinds may be got to
that height without much trouble. But there are others again, and these
some of our best sorts, which will not grow upwards at all. The branches of
such kinds should be tied to hoops supported by strong stakes. Summer
pinching should be practised in the case of the Gooseberry just as much as
in the case of other fruit-trees — indeed more so, for they are more prolilic
of shoots, and therefore every one which is not needed should be i)inched to
one or two leaves as soon as it has grown 6 or 7 inches. At the same time,
the very strong shoots which often spring from the centre of the bushes shoiild
be twisted out. When the shoots are this length, the points are often attacked
by green-fly in such numbers that they can grow no further, and the general
health of the bushes suiters. Their excrement also fouls the fruit. When
pinching is done, large numbers of shoots with the infesting insect are re-
moved, and the remainder is therefore more easily dealt with. The best plan
that we have tried for getting rid of them is to crush the point of each shoot
between the linger and thumb when we are pinching the shoots. As we go
over the bushes two or three times in this way, we manage to rid the bushes
effectually of this troublesome insect.

There is another yet more troublesome insect which may be got rid of in
the same way : it is the destructive Gooseberry caterpillar. Just at the time
the shoots need pinching, the caterpillars are hatching, and whole broods are
confined to one leaf. A quick eye will detect these leaves, and the young
caterpillars may be destroyed at once before doing any damage. "When the
attack is moderate (and it will only be moderate in isolated gardens when
they are systematically kept down), this is the quickest and most satis-
factory method we know of for getting rid of the pest. And when they
do come in hosts, it is much easier to get at them when the shoots are pinched,
and therefore thin, than when the growths are crowded. When the pest
comes in swarms, the best cure is to slightly dust the bushes when they are
wet with Hellebore-powder, or the powder may be mixed with water and
sprinkled on to the bushes while they are dry with a whitewash brush.
Perseverance in the use of Hellebore will soon destroy them. Stragglers late
in the season, when the fruit is ripe or ripening, may be got rid of by hand-
picking.

On good soils. Gooseberry-bushes which are well treated to begin with,
will thrive for twelve or fifteen years without much more in the way of
manure. It always pays, however, to be liberal with them, and an occasional
dressing of manure pointed into the surface at the annual digging — not always
practised by cottagers, but recommended here — will prove of benefit. When
urine can be obtained, one pailful spread over the roots after the ground has
been dug over in winter, will keep up a vigorous fertility. U applied
fresh, it kills the aphis which winters on the roots, and does no harm to the
bushes. The soil absorbs all the manurial properties of the urine, so no
fear need be entertained of the rains washing its virtues away before it
can benefit the bushes. Only the growing roots can extract its virtues from
the soil. This fact should be generally known, as the opjiosite notion pre-
vails.

Undernoted are a few of the best kinds for general cultivation, and also
some of the largest exhibition Lancashire kinds. For general vse. — * Early
Sulphur, *Langley Park Green, * Pitmaston Greengage, Honey bloke, * Crown
Bob, Hedgehog, * Warrington, Ironmonger, Whitesmith ; and for jam, * Scotch
Hed. For cxJti hit ion.— The. following are the heaviest: W^hitej — ^ Antagonist,

550 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

Careless, and Overseer ; Reds—* Beauty, Clayson, Conquering Hero, Dan's
Mistake, and * London ; Yellows — * Catherina, Great "Western, and Levels;
Greens — * Drill, Stock-well, and Thumper. Those with an asterisk are best.

Currants.

Except in pruning, everything we have said about Gooseberries in regard to
their eultiv^ation will apply to Currants. However, it may be as well to say
that all Currants will thrive on northern or eastern aspects where but little
sun reaches them. ]>lack Currants es[)ecially do best on a border at the
north or east side of a wall, although they will grow anywhere. Southern
cultivators had better note, however, that warm soils and sunny aspects are
the reverse of favourable to any of these fruits ; and northerners may be
glad to know that ])laces too cold or damp for other fruits are just the best
position possible for them.

In the matter of pruning, we prefer to keep the old branches of Red and
"White Currants well furnished with spurs, and to depend on these. To cause
spurs to form freely, it is well to cut the annual shoots half-way back at each
annual pruning while the bushes are young and in training. We prefer hav-
ing them globe-shaped, for the same reason that we prefer Gooseberries to be
so trained. After the bushes are large, pruning consists in cutting back all
aniuial shoots to one or two eyes, but it is better still to pinch them to that
while they are young. On good soil, bushes should ultimately attain from G
to 8 feet in height ; and bushes this size, when well furnished with spurs,
generally bear a great quantity of valuable fruit. When birds are troublesome
it may be necessary to protect the fruit by means of old herring-nets, which
are to be had very cheaply. When the bushes are on borders beside walls
this is easily done ; otherwise, it may be necessary to put up a railing all round
the quarter on which they grow to support the net. A few long poles in the
centre will keep the net clear of the bushes. Where birds destroy the buds in
winter and spring, pruning should be deferred until the bushes begin to
grow. To afford protection, the bushes should be liberally dusted in winter
with a mixture of lime and soot.

Red Currants are very suitable for covering north or east walls. Four, six,
or eight cordon trees are best for this purpose.

Black Currants
must be pruned on a different principle, for the best of the fruit is borne on
the preceding year's shoots, so pruning must be done in the same way as
recommended for Morellos. No spurring in should be practised, but in its
place a continual cutting back of old wood, and a continual encouragement of
young. Learn the principle on which they should be pruned, and the
practice will become easy. Crowding should be avoided, for crowding means
small fruit, and small fruit is a great trouble to gather, and very inferior
after it is gathered. Amateurs who are first-class pruners of Gooseberries, in
their own opinion, generally consider the proper pruning of Black Currants
an inscrutable mystery, and so leave them alone. Yet Gooseberry and Black
Currant bushes should be treated very much alike, and that means that
annually a thinning out in a regular manner should be given to each. It is
bad pruning indeed that is not better than no pruning, for the letting in of
air and sun works a wonderful improvement on these fruits, and the thinning-
out causes greater vigour in the shoots left. For covering north walls which
are under 8 feet in height, Black Currant bushes are admirably adapted. In

i88i.] TEA R0SP:S ON BACK WALLS OF VINERIES. 551

such positions they should be trained and treated in the same way as Morellos.
The best white is AVhite Dutch ; the best red, Kaby Castle, Red Dutch, and
Magnum Bonum ; and the best black, Black Naples and Lee's Prolific. There are
many very inferior kinds of all the sorts in cultivation, and great care should
be taken, when young plantations are made, to get the sorts we have recom-
mended true to name. Gooseberries and Currants are very easily increased by
cuttings. The time to put them in is early in October. The cuttings should
be of the current year's wood, and 15 or 18 inches long. They should be
pulled off the old bushes in a way to secure a thin section of the old wood.
The ends should be smoothed with a sharp knife, the tips taken off the tops,
and all the buds removed, except four at the top. Such cuttings, planted
firmly, with a little sandy soil at the bases, on a shady border, 4 inches apart
in the rows, and 15 between the rows, will root readily. Green-fly and
caterpillars which attack Currants must be got rid of in the same way as
advised in the case of Gooseberries. A. H. H.

TEA ROSES ON THE BACK WALLS OF VINERIES.

The great demand that now exists for cut-fiowers compels gardeners
to make use of all odd corners and positions under glass that are
likely to be of any use in producing flowers for cutting, especially in
winter and early spring. We have found the Rose, especially the
Tea varieties, most accommodating in this respect ; growing and yield-
ing a great number of their deliciously fragrant blooms in positions
that are not always turned to account. For instance, on the back
walls of vineries where the roof is covered with Vines, we have found
Roses do very well indeed.

Two years ago last spring, when a number of Tea Roses in pots had
ceased yielding many blooms, and had to be turned out of a forcing-
house to make room for other things, they were plunged deep enough
to cover the pots along the back wall of a vinery. The stakes were
taken from them, and they were tied to the wires on the back wall,
the weaker shoots being all pruned away. The wall is 134 feet long,
and 13 feet high. They have grown freely, and bloomed almost per-
petually. When they get too thick of growths, we cut out the
weakest ; those retained are rearranged over the w^all, and syringed
with paraflin and water, which keeps them free from insects till they are
again thinned out and retied. They have grown moderately strong,
and have yielded an enormous number of flowers.

Where vineries will allow of planting Tea Roses in this way, a few
started in succession would give an immense number of Roses. In the
earlier houses the Roses should not be so frequently syringed as the
Vines, or mildew very soon puts in an appearance. I cut a beautiful
bouquet of Roses from the wall of our vinery last Christmas Eve, and
all through the season it has been very productive. 1800 blooms were
cut in April. The varieties are : —

552

THE GARDENER.

[Dec.

Marie Guillot.

Safrano.

Adam.

Madame liravy.

IVIarie van Houtte.

Perle des Jardiiis.

Jja Sylphine.

Souvenir d'un Ami.

Sombrieul.

Madame Marie Arnaniel.

(Uoire de Dijon.
Isabella Sprunt.
Madame l)enis.
Madame Falcot.
Archduke Charles.
Catherine Mermet,
Clothilde.
Marie Sisley.
Devon ieii sis.
Marechal Xiel.

A. H. ¥

S^T^j^-

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF WALL - BORDERS IN
KITCHEN - GARDENS.

NO. XI.

In my concluding paper I propose treating briefly upon a few other
fruits, more especially with regard to the adaptability of different
species or varieties for the various sites. To attempt anything beyond
this, seeing how ably "A. H. H." is handling the subject generally,
would be altogether a waste of time and space.

Fears. — These, I think, we may safely assert are the most generally
l)opular kind of fruits for wall-culture, as not only do they succeed
where others fail, but if a judicious selection of varieties is planted, a
supply of delicious fruit may be maintained over a lengthened period
— the Apple in this respect being its only rival. An unlimited collec-
tion, however, is generally the reverse of a profitable one, and, unfor-
tunately, this craving for variety was not confined to the present
generation of gardeners. For instance, we have a fine west wall
cipitally furnished with triple oblique cordons. Sixty plants in sixty
varieties were planted, but of these thirty at least are comparatively
worthless. Far more profitable would it have been to have planted
four each of fifteen good well-tried varieties. Of course it is advisable
to give some of the newer varieties a trial ; but according to my ex-
perience, very few of these are superior to the older sorts.

In the southern counties I have seen Pears fruiting freely on north,
south, east, and west walls, and of good quality in each instance. It
sometimes happens that employers are particularly fond of one or two
varieties ; and hv planting these in different sites, the supply is con-
siderably prolonged. The only varieties I have seen grown profitably
on a north wall are Jargonelle, William's Bon Chretien, Seckle, and
Marie Louise ; and in each instance, despite absence of direct sunshine,
clean, good - flavoured fruit resulted. Here we have William's Bon
Chretien on south, west, and east aspects, there being no perceptible
difference in the quantity or quality of the crops, and by ripening
some of the most forward artificially, the supply of this very popular
variety was prolonged over a considerable period, and what is satis-
factory to all concerned, not a dozen fruits were spoilt. The early and

i88i.] WALL-BORDERS IN KITCHEN-GARDENS. 553

delicious Jargonelle and Beurre Superfine are being similarly arranged.
In the case of varieties that keep longer after ripening, it may not be
necessary to distribute the trees; as when the crops are heavy, or early
ripening is desired, all that is required is to ripen a few dozen arti-
ficially— that is to say, in a box of hay placed in a dry heat such as a
forcing-house, or failing this, a hot kitchen. This not only prolongs
the season, but really improves the fruit, both as regards quality and
appearance, of many varieties, such as Beurre Diel, B. Clairgeau,
Duchess d'Angouleme, Flemish Beauty, Josephine de Malines, and
Bergamotte Esperen. At the same time, by distribution there is a
better chance of securing crops from one or other of the sites.

From experience in midland, southern, and western counties, in
addition to the Bon Chretien, Jargonelle, and Beurre Superfine, I can
recommend Louis Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise, Huyshe's Victoria,
Glout Morceau, and Easter Beurre for south, east, and west walls.
Beurre Diel, B. Clairgeau, B. Ranee, B. Bachelier, B. Hardy, B. Bosc,
B. d'Aremberg, Pitmaston Duchess, Thompson's Van, Mons. Leon
Leclerc, Marechal de Cour, Doyenne du Cornice, Winter Trellis,
Knight's Monarch, Josephine de Malines, Ne plus Meuris, and Berga-
motte Esperen, have proved excellent on south and west walls ; while
Chaumontel and Beurre d'Amanlis I have only had really good from
south walls.

Plums. — Seeing how well these succeed as standards, especially in
the more southern counties, it is scarcely advisable to generally devote
much wall-space to them. Where, however, space is plentiful, or
where they do not succeed in the open, they will most probably be
found profitable on south and west, and, in favourable localities, even
north and east walls. The most appreciated are the different Gages,
and these require warm positions to properly ripen their fruit. Green
Gage, M'Laughlin's Gage, Purple Gage, and Transparent Gage are all
deserving of a place on either west or south walls ; and the same may
be said of Oullin's Golden, Jefferson, Washington, Guthrie's Late
Green, and Peine Claude de Bavay — all being good dessert varieties.
In this district, and in other southern gardens, I have found Wash-
ington, Kirke's, Jefferson, Oullin's Golden, Coe's Golden Drop, Reine
Claude de Bavay, and Ickworth Imperatrice of dessert varieties ; and
Orleans, Magnum Bonum, Victoria, Pond's Seedling, Early Rivers,
Goliath, and Prince of Wales — cooking varieties — succeed admirably
on walls of east and north-east aspects. We have several dessert
varieties on a wall here with a north-west aspect, and although they
crop fairly well, the quality is generally inferior.

Cherries. — Of these, again, there are several on a north-west wall ;
but those of the Bigarreau type do not ripen properly, and are much
too sour for dessert purposes. Morellos succeed admirably on this
site, and again in a north-east aspect ; while on the same wall, trees of
Late Duke are fast dying. The Morello is also quite at home and

554 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

very profitable on a north wall. A very hot position appears unsuit-
able to the choicest Cherries ; and oftentimes they are difficult to keep
clean on an east wall — a])hides being their great enemies. A west
aspect then is most suitable to Cherries; and such varieties as Knight's
Early Black, May Duke, Black Tartarian, Governor Wood, Elton,
Black Eagle, Late Bigarreau, and Late Duke are worthy of such a
position.

Red Currants, Gooseberries, and Currants. — To afford a late supply
of these, the north walls and borders will be found of great service.
The former, in our case, are in possession of a moderately high north
wall, and the buttresses and spaces midway between Plums aYid other
trees on north-west and east walls — in each instance yielding heavily.
By covering some of these with mats early in September, the fruit can
be kept till late in the season. Ruby Castle is the most suitable
variety for the purpose. Gooseberries are sometimes trained to north
walls, having all lateral growth kept spurred back similar to the Red
Currants ; but however well they may succeed, they are not very re-
munerative, especially seeing the fruit hangs as long on protected
bush-trees. The Red Warrington and Sulphur are well adapted for a
late border, these being of good habit — cropping heavily, late keepers,
and good dessert sorts. Of Strawberries we have had capital late
supplies from a north-west border ; the varieties being President, Sir
Charles Napier, Dr Hogg, and Eleanor. Sir C. Napier was much
damaged in the open last winter, but escaped comparatively uninjured
in the cooler position. W. Iggulden.

NOTES FROM THE PAPERS.

Every critic of Darwin's book on Worms, from the ' Athenaium ' down-
wards, has instanced the horticultural writer as one whose " inability
to sum up the effects of a continually concurrent cause" has retarded
the progress of science ; but really it may be doubted if Mr Darwin
could appeal to any class of observers who could substantiate his
views and credit his statements so readily as gardeners. The " stupen-
duous" work of the worms any gardener can comprehend who ever
swept the worm-casts off a lawn. Many a gardener has grumbled at
the time and labour lost removing these at certain seasons of the year ;
and recognised that the accumulations of mould raised daily by the
worms on the smooth surface of a good lawn was equal to a man's
work to remove on a not very large space of ground. It has also been
recommended before now to roll the worm-casts down in preference to
sweeping them oft', on the plea that the tine mould cast up exercised a
manurial influence upon the grass. Indeed, in many poor lawns
where the turf is never enriched artificially, it cannot be doubted
that the worm-casts exercise a beneficial infiuence, like the excrement of

i88i.] NOTES FROM THE PAPERS. 555

any other animal ; and if the operations of the Annelids are not too
much disturbed, a very considerable dressing of rich mould will be
raised to the surface in a short while. Their worst fault is, that they
are always most active in that way where they are least needed — that
is, in a rich soil ; and gardeners would gladly dispense with their services
under such circumstances. Whatever services they may render, how-
ever, by their additions to the virgin mould of the earth, it is certain
that worms are not regarded with favour near the roots of choice
plants in pots or growing in the bed ; and we cannot remember an in-
stance in which their operations in such quarters were attended with
any benefit, but the contrary.

A correspondent of ' Gardening,' writing on the subject of market
Grapes in autumn, says that —

"In spite of the large importations of foreign Grapes into this country,
home-grown Hamburgs of good quality still command remunerative prices,
and I think that I may with safety say that any grower who may not wish to
be troubled with keeping his produce until a late period in the year, when
naturally higher prices are to he looked for, may calculate upon a profitable
return if he should determine upon marketing his fruit as soon as ripe. Let
it be understood, however, that I am speaking of good Grapes only ; for bad
Grapes are often a complete drug in the market, and neither fruiterers nor
salesmen care to be troubled with them."

Notwithstanding the fact that Grapes last week were quoted in
Covent Garden as low as 6d. per lb., there is truth in these remarks.
A well-known Covent Garden man said once to the writer, " Good
Grapes can always find a remunerative market in Covent Garden, if
delivered in good condition." They require to be good, however, now-
adays, and the majority of samples are indifferent. The same writer
in your contemporary points out a fact which is not always sufficiently
realised — viz., that from the time a bunch of Grapes is quite ripe, a pro-
cess of deterioration goes on. Hamburgs especially spoil quickly ; and
a curious fact in relation to this Grape is, that no matter how black
the berries may be, they turn red again after hanging for a time, and
lose flavour as well. No other variety has this fault that we know of.
The Alicante, Lady Downes, and other late and thick-skinned kinds
retain their colour to the last ; and the bloom of the berries, which
early in the season rubs off with the slightest touch, '' sets," and in
spring will endure considerable friction without injury. All those,
too, who hold their late crops with the object of getting better prices,
must also lay in their account for loss in the shape of decayed berries»
and a very sensible reduction of weight in the bunches, which grow
lighter the longer they hang.

In a week or two, or by the time this is in print, the exhibition of
smoke-preventing appliances for domestic fireplaces, &c., will be held at

556 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

South Kensington, in the arcades of the Royal Horticultural Society.
Numerous prizes in money are to be awarded, and competitors are
said to be coming from all the great towns in the kingdom with
their various inventions, for which numerous patents have already
been taken out. Putting aside the saving of fuel effected by such
means in towns — which would amount to millions in London alone —
the advantages to the health of the inhabitants, and to vegetation in
and near great centres of industry, would be almost incalculable. In
some manufacturing towns there are already laws in force for the con-
sumption of smoke from furnaces and the like, but they are prac-
tically a dead letter. The smoke hangs like a pall over towns and the
surrounding district for miles, and settles in the form of black smut
on field and forest, and may frequently be seen resting on the surface
of reservoirs and lakes in a thick black scum of the consistency of
cream. A smoke-consuming appliance is also much wanted in stoke-
hole furnaces in gardens. The smoke produced by these is a serious
nuisance in all large gardens : hothouses and conservatories get quite
blackened in a short time by the soot, which greatly spoils the appear-
ance of these structures. There is a way of consuming the smoke to
some extent, if the stoking is intelligently performed ; but this cannot
be depended upon in gardens, and none of our horticultural boilers
present facilities for effecting that end themselves. The use of coke
instead of coal will go far to lessen the evil. Indeed a coke-fire is
absolutely smokeless soon after it is lit ; but gardeners complain that
they cannot keep up temperatures with it sufficiently, unless the quan-
tity of piping is greater than is usually provided. Coke, too, is more
expensive. Any of our hot-water engineers who will provide a readily
available smoke -consuming apparatus for garden furnaces will make
his fortune.

After all, those who have entertained and acted upon the idea that
the potato-disease might be eventually overcome by the selection of
disease-resisting varieties, and propagating from these, are justified
by the discoveries of M. Pasteur, which have attracted so much atten-
tion of late. The silk-worm disease, this investigator discovered, was
caused by tiny microscopic corpuscles or organisms in the juices of the
diseased worms, which even extended to the eggs produced by them.
By careful breeding from eggs, however, which happened to be free
from the disease-germs, although produced by disease-affected worms,
he showed that in a short time it would be possible to regenerate the
race and entirely stamp out the disease ; and that when circumstances
did not admit of elaborate precautions, a seed might be secured, which,
if not absolutely free from disease, would still afford a very satisfac-
tory crop of silk. The silk-worm and the potato are two very different
subjects, no doubt, but there is no physiological reason whatever for
supposing that the potato-disease cannot be overcome in the same way;

i88i.] THE GRAPE-VINE CONTROVERSY. 557

although fungologists who have given attention to the subject, hope
tar more from isolation from infection than from constitutional resist-
ance of disease, promoted by healthy culture and the judicious selection
of healthy seed.

A gentleman whose vocation in connection with art and science
brings him in frequent contact with the great critic and philanthro-
pist Ruskin, called on us the other day to talk about the subject of
fruit-culture. In answer to an inquiry, he said that if the great
modern philosopher entertained any particular opinions on the sub-
ject of horticulture, they were in favour of its simplification and exten-
sion, so as to confer the greatest amount of benefit on the greatest
number of people. Our visitor said, speaking for himself, that he w^as
of that opinion also, and he thought much was written on the subject
of horticulture that was calculated to mystify if not to absolutely
deter people from attempting gardening in many branches, and being
a reader of horticultural papers, he instanced statements that corrobo-
rated this opinion. The gardening papers were, he said, like the
' Pall Mall Gazette,' written for gentlemen more than for the general
public and those who were interested in horticulture as an industry,
not to mention the number of humble persons who were concerned in
the subject. When our visitor called, we had just a few minutes pre-
viously received the weekly copy of a contemporary from the post-
man, and had been reading the following statement by a writer, to
the effect that, "in order to insure success for any reasonable length
of time " with Pears on walls and on the natural stock, " it is an abso-
lute necessity in ninety-nine cases out of every hundred " to have bor-
ders 30 feet wide, 3 feet deep, concreted if needful, and composed of
good heavy loam ! Pointing the passage out, we observed : " This, we
suppose, is what you mean 1 " "Just so," was the reply ; "such pre-
paration and expense, if credited, would render the culture of Pears
an impossibility in ninety-nine cases in a hundred.'^ The author of
the passage was, of course, talking perfect nonsense — unconsciously
maybe, but still nonsense ; but we do meet with the like very fre-
quently. Reader.

THE GRAPE-VINE CONTROVERSY.

LOW TEMPERATURES FOR SETTING MUSCAT GRAPES.

It is well the author of the "leader" in last month's 'Gardener' has laid so
lucidly before the readers of this journal the true bearings of "low night"
and high day temperature on the setting of Grapes, and Muscats in particular,
for I am afraid the advocates of low night-temperature are overlooking the
part played by the "higher day-temperature," iu effecting for them thohe
splendid "sets" they speak about. I don't wish it to be inferred from this,
that I want to run down "cool night-temperatures." On the contrary —

558 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

apart from the actual "setting" of Grapes — I (luite agree with all its advocates
have said on this subject, for it is in accordance with my own experience and
practice for the past thirteen years, which I will now relate.

I entered on my present charge early in September 1868. The first thing
that called for particular attention was a JMuscat-house, in the middle of a
range of three vineries. The Grapes were hanging on the Vines at the time,
not quite ripe, and in a very bad condition ; the berries shanking, and the
wood poor and spindly, and altogether much out of health. I concluded the
fault lay in the border. I examined it, and found the soil to be an effete and
soapy mass of sour soil. I set about at once to procure some good turfy loam :
with this I mixed some burnt earth, charcoal, and some rotten manure, and
commenced operations on the border, removing it to within 3 feet of the
stems of the Vines. (All the Vines here at that time had been planted in,
and confined to, outside borders.) The surface of the remaining 8 feet of
border was forked up, and cleared away down to the first roots. After care-
fully cutting aM^ay all decayed and injured roots, and shortening back the
strong bare ones, the compost was wheeled in and carefully worked among the
roots, which were brought well up to the surface as the work proceeded. As
the compost was very dry when brought in, a good soaking of water was
given. Both fruit and leaves were hanging on the Vines while these opera-
tions were being carried out. It caused the leaves to flag considerably;
but by shading with mats, and syringing the Vines once or twice a-day for
some little time, the Vines did not appear to be much checked.

Before the end of October the border was covered a foot deep with dry litter,
and over this shutters were put, to throw off the rains, and to keep out frosts.
V'ery little fruit was expected the following season. Forcing did not begin till
the first of March, and all went well till the flowering stage. Like a great
many more, I had been taught to believe that a high night-temperature, as
well as a high day one, was necessary to insure a good "set" of Muscat
Grapes. AVith this in view I gave the order to the stoker to fire harder, and
bring the night-temperature up 10° more. (Up to this time it had not been
higher on the mildest nights than 50°.) But I soon found out, to my dismay,
that the heating apparatus was inadequate to bring the temperature up more
than an additional 3° or 4°; and the temperature would run down to a very low
point on cold nights, lower than we could at the time account for, and I made
sure there would not be a berry " set." I looked anxiously up at the blossom-
ing bunches every day. Things went on this way for about a fortnight, when
1 thought I noticed the berries to be increasing in size every day, and one
morning, after a rather cold night, dew-drops were found to be hanging on
every point of the leaves, to disperse which I had to give the Vines a rather
smart tap, at the same time fearing what might be the consequence to the
bunches. Imagine my joy when ultimately I found a perfect " set."

Well, I felt I had been taught a lesson, and one not of my own seeking. It
had been thrust upon me through circumstances over which I had no control.
I was now convinced that a high night-temperature was not necessary for the
wellbeing of the Vine. But with regard to the " setting" of the fruit, I still
had some doubt about the "low night-temperature " being the direct cause of
so good a set of berries.

I felt I had yet more to learn on this point. The vinery was an iron one,
and this to a great extent accounted for its being so difficult to heat by night,
and for the fact that it run up quickly by day with sun to a high temperature.
As I could gain no further definable knowledge, for that season at least, on the

i88t.] the GRAPE-VINE CONTROVERSY. 559

setting point, I contented myself with trying to secure as good results the fol-
lowing year as was possible under the circumstances. As I had anticipated, the
Grapes were nothing to boast of ; still, they were very fair, and finished off
well, with not many shanked berries. The following season (1870) I com-
menced to force the first week in February. Instead of the dry litter on the
border, I put 3 feet of hot dung and leaves, and kept this renewed till the
ripening stage of the Grapes was reached. I also made daily notes of the day
and night temperatures, also of the weather, from the beginning of the forcing
to the finishing otf of the Grapes, in the hope that I might gain some addi-
tional knowledge on the " setting " question. The season passed over, how-
ev'er, without my gaining anything very definite on this point. Like the
previous season, it had been a very beautiful and sunny one, especially all
through the blooming period. I had a splendid "set," and the Grapes were
fine both in bunch and berry, and finished off with a good colour. Some of
the bunches were 5 lb. in weight, and the average through the house 3 lb.
The Vines were in robust health, and showed they were benefiting by the new
compost. I had had no misgivings this time on the score of the " low night-
temperature." One thing I had observed particularly, as I had observed the
previous season, that two Vines at the hottest end of the house, and immedi-
ately over two 6-inch flow-pipes direct from the boiler — one for the heating of
this house, and the other, which had to pass through it on its way to heat the
early vinery — had by far the lest set bunches.

I commenced forcing again for the season 1871 at the same time and
under the same circumstances as the last. But what a contrast in the
weather to the two previous seasons. It turned out to be a cold, wet, sunless,
and late spring. There was barely one sunny day all through the blooming
period. And what about the " set " ? Well, it proved to be as remarkable,
in contrast to the two previous ones, as the weather was. In place of a " good
set, " there was a most wretched one — not a full or presentable bunch in the
whole house, except on the tv:o Vines over the hot-water -pipes, and these were not
nearly so full as previously. There were nine Vines in the house — seven Mus-
cat of Alexandria, and two Black West's St Peter. The latter, at the cool
end of the house, had not a dozen set berries on them.

On comparing my notes which I had of the temperatures for the two last
seasons, I found the night-temperature had differed but little. On very mild
nights it had not been higher than 50°, and on the coldest as low as 42° to 45°.
There was, however, a very great difference in the day-temperatures during
the blooming periods. For the season 1870, with bright sun, the temperature
had run up to 80° and 85°, with air on. But for the dull period of 1871, with
but little or no sun, we could not force the temperature higher than 55° to 60° at
the most, with fire-heat. From this I concluded that I had gained the infor-
mation I had so much desired, and led me to conclude that " low night-tem-
peratures " have very little to do with the " actual setting" of the fruit ; and
that a rather high day-temperature, with "sun-light," and a moving atmo-
sphere, are the prime necessary agents for a good " set," especially for Muscat
Grapes.

It is said that during the dark hours of the night "all nature" is at rest.
I cannot say if my premisses be correct, but I think the pollen and sexual
organs of flowers are not in a state to be fructified during the dark, cool, and
moister atmosphere of the night, and that it requires the influence of sun-light,
a warmer and drier air, to bring them to this state. J. K. K.

Herts.

560 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

THE n RAPE -VINE COXTliOVERSY.

Mr Simpson has raised a controversy in regard to low night-tempera-
ture in the cultivation of the Grape-Vine, which it is desirable should
be discussed in all its bearings, in order to discover whether there is
really anything in the system he advocates worthy of general adop-
tion, as his ideas clash against all our preconceived notions of the
treatment necessary to produce good Grapes.

As far as my own experience goes, my opinion is that good Grapes
cannot be grown and properly ripened — at any rate, in the northern
parts of the kingdom— in a lower night-temperature than from 55° to
60° in the case of Hamburgs, and a minimum of from 60° to 65° in
the case of Muscats, Arc. — with a rise of 10° at night in the case of
Hamburgs when in flower; and for Muscats, a minimum night-tempera-
ture of 70° at this stage, or even 5° higher than that, will do more good
than harm. This is what we aim at in our own practice ; and though
we do not rigidly adhere to it through thick and thin, but rather allow
the inside temperature to fluctuate in proportion to the temperature
outside, we endeavour to come as near to it as circumstances will allow.
Except when the Vines are breaking into growth, we never use the
syringe, merely contenting ourselves with damping down the paths,
ifec, at closing time, and keeping the borders well supplied with water;
and we very rarely are troubled with red-spider.

As a rule, it will be found that the best -set and best-coloured
bunches of Muscats and other shy-setting sorts are at the warm end
of the houses, over the pipes where they enter the house, and along
the top of the rods, — thus showing that the hot dry air at these places
assists in causing them to set better.

As a case in point against a continuous low temperature in Grape-
growing, I may be allowed to mention what has come under my own
experience here. We have two lean-to houses, which are apart and
behind our principal range. The houses were originally built as
fruiting Pine stoves. They are, however, wider and loftier than are
generally used for Pine-growing, being 16 feet high at back, 18 feet wide,
with front lights 4 feet high, and are or were heated with smoke-flues.
I don't know how long ago, but probably twenty-five years or so, Pine-
growing was abandoned, and the houses planted with Black Ham-
burg Vines, which were planted in an outside border, and brought
through the front wall nearly at the ground-level. These Vines had done
good work in their day; but when I took charge of them, both houses
and Vines were in a very dilapidated condition. Immediately after I
entered on my duties here, we began the erection of a long range of
forcing-houses. It was put up in four sections, each section being
done in a year, so that the work was four years in hands. The first
two sections being mainly vineries and Peach-houses, I found that
with growing a good many pot-Vines and supernumeraries among tlie

i88t.] the GRAPE-VINE CONTROVERSY. 561

permanent Vines, I could supply the family's wants without the two
back houses ; and as it was intended to convert them into a large
Camellia-house, we decided to cut the Vines out. Circumstances,
however, occurred which prevented us from getting the work done at
the time, and I left the Vines, with the intention of, at any rate,
getting leaves for garnishing, &c. They broke away very well ; and
when the bunches began to run out, I helped them with a little fire at
night, and again when they were coming into bloom — but this was all
the fire-heat they got. They had abundance of ventilation ; too much,
indeed, at times found its way through the numerous laps and broken
panes in the roof. The Grapes swelled up wonderfully, and coloured
up as black as sloes by the end of September, but they realised the
fable about "The Fox and the Grapes," for they were very sour.

A Grape-grower who used to take a prominent position at the
Edinburgh exhibitions, happened to call here on a visit at the time,
and noticed how well they were coloured. He suggested that they
would be of fine flavour, and asked permission to taste them, whicli
I granted. He made a very wry face at them, and I laughed and
asked him what was wrong with him. " Why,'' said he, " you might
as well have a mouthful of tartaric acid," and added that he never
would have thought so, judging from their fine appearance. Now
here we had everything present that is generally looked for in good
Grapes— good colour, good bloom, and fair size of berry — and yet
void of flavour ; and what could be the reason 1 Well, in my opinion,
it was neither more nor less than want of suflScient heat to elaborate
the saccharine juices ; and such must always follow where a too low
temperature is maintained in Grape cultivation.

John Garrett.

Whittixghame.

TEMPERATURE FOR GRAPE-VINES during the Flowering and
OTHER Periods of Active Growth.

Notwithstanding what has already been written and said on this
subject, by men who are celebrated for the quantity and (quality of
their Grapes, there still exists a doubt in the minds of some Grape-
growers regarding what is the best temperature to maintain at night
during the time the Vines are in flower, especially in the case of
Muscat and other shy-setting varieties.

Of late it has been contended by a few writers on Grape-culture,
that it is not necessary for the successful setting of the fruit to subject
Muscats when in flower to as high a night-temperature as that recom-
mended in books treating on the culture of the Grape-Vine ; and that
as good, if not better, results would follow, both as regards the set, in
the first instance, and the ultimate finish and flavour of the fruit, if,
(luring tlie various stages of growth, the Vines were treated with a

562 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

much lower temperature during the night than is generally practised.
And not only so, but it is also contended tliat a low night-temperature
is conducive to health, longevity, and fruitfulness in the Vines ; and
by its adoption they are kept free from certain insects that prey upon
them at some places when treated to a higher temperature in the
night.

The foregoing is a short summary .of the advantages said by the
advocates of the " cool system " to be derived from an adherence thereto
in the culture of the Grape-Vine. And at first sight it might appear
that their claims were indisputable. For instance, on the score of
economy alone, one would think the cooler system of Grape-growing
had a great advantage over the hotter. By the former system we are
told that a saving in fuel and labour is brought about, and that it also
prevents insects from attacking the Vines during the growing season,
and thereby the cost of "red-spider and thrip antidote" and other
insecticides is saved. The economical argument, however, is more
apparent than real, as we will see presently. Speaking of red-spider
and thrips, however, leads me to remark in passing, that when these
insects infest Vines year after year, it is an evidence that there is
a weak link — other than Jiifjh night-temperature — somewhere in the
chain of conditions or management under which the Vines are
growing.

Referring again to the "cool system," it is much to be regretted
that, when tried against the hotter — all other conditions being equal,
and the test of superiority being the finish, flavour, and keeping quali-
ties of the fruit produced by the respective systems — it is, to use a
sporting phrase, nowhere. I do not say this without " having given
both ways a fair trial" with several sorts of Grapes. Where large
properly built bunches, having large even-sized berries of good colour
and excellent flavour, are wanted, a higher night-temperature must be
maintained from start to finish than that recommended by the de-
fenders of cool treatment.

And now with regard to the best degree of temperature to maintain
day and night, when the Vines are in flower, with a view of securing
a satisfactory set of the fruit. In my experience, I have found that
the best results follow, in the case of Muscats, when the night-tem-
perature is kept as near 70° as possible, with a rise of from 10° to
15° during the day, according to the amount of sunshine prevailing.
I may state, however, that Muscat of Alexandria, and what is called
Bowood Muscat, are the only two kinds that I ever experienced any
difficulty with in the matter of setting of the fruit. And in the case
of these Grapes, I have never been able to get them to " set so well
that the berries become wedged together by the thinning period."
Still, until this year, I managed to have as shapely bunches as most
people, and superior in other ways to some that had been thought
worthy of being publicly exhibited.

88i.] THE GRAPE-VINE CONTROVERSY. 563

I will now tell what, in my opinion, was the cause of the Muscats
setting worse this year than usual. Before doing so, however, I had
better say that the Muscat-house here contains ten Vines — that is, seven
Muscats, one Trebbiana, one Syrian, and one Raisin de Calabrie — all
of them being very vigorous ; and having been thoroughly ripened in
1880, they were in first-rate order for starting in the first week of Feb-
ruary this year. Well, as before stated, the Muscats, although treated
to the orthodox temperature, never set so well as I would like them to
have done ; and I determined last January that I would try them on
the "cool system." The buds swelled and started into growth with
great regularity all over the canes, and a magnificent " show " for fruit
followed. Everything seemed to be right until the period arrived
when the berries should have been set, when, to my amazement and
chagrin, they dropped off in showers; and such ragged jack-like bunches
of Muscats as we have had this year has not been seen in these parts
before. Now, as regards the other varieties of Grapes in the same
house, the set was all that could be desired, which, in my humble
opinion, proves that Muscats require a higher night-temperature than
50° to insure a good set, I will now refer to another house containing
the same number of Vines — that is, three Gros Colmar, three Lady
Downes, two Alicante, one Gros Guillaume, and one Mrs Pince. In this
case the set w^as all right, and the bunches and berries are of good size,
but the colouring process did not commence until three weeks later
than in former years. At the present time the colour is as good as
needs be, as a bunch of Gros Colmar sent to the Editor will prove [Jet
Black — Ed.]; but none of the kinds mentioned are ripe in the right
sense of the word, consequently they are keeping very badly, and the
bunches are fast becoming in looks like their ragged friends the Mus-
cats in the adjoining house. And thus we are now squandering in the
vineries more than we economised in the stoke-hole earlier in the year.

It is of as much importance to those of us who have to supply Grapes
every day for ten months of the year, to know the conditions that are
most conducive to them keeping plump and sound the longest period, as
it is to know the conditions under which the best set of the berries are
secured ; and to insure them keeping well, they should be thoroughly
ripe before the days have crept in much — that is, not later than the first
week of September. After this time Grapes will improve in colour ; black
Grapes will become blacker, and Muscats and other white sorts will
become a bit yellower, but neither black nor white will get much riper.
True, the flavour may improve or change after this time, but this is
not the kind of ripening that tends to their keeping fresh, sound, and
plump daring the winter and spring months. What is required to
enable them to do so is a thorough maturing of the skin, pulp, and
seeds of the berries before the sun has declined in power, and the
autumn nights have come on, and these conditions cannot be secured
under the '" cool system " of Grape-growing.

2 o

564 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

The same holds good in the case of ripening the wood. If it is not
solid and ripe about the time mentioned that the Grapes should be
ripe, you may fire as much as you like afterwards, but you will not
inij^art to it that fruit-producing ripeness that might have been secured
with half the consumption of fuel earlier in the season, when the days
were long and the sun powerful. In the case of Grape-growing, the
time to economise in the stoke-hole is not during the spring and sum-
mer, but during the autumn and winter. In future I intend to start
our late-keeping Grapes in the first week of February, and to maintain
at night, when they are in flower, " the regulation standard of 70^ for
jMuscats," and 60° for the other kinds ; and also to push them on
briskly during the early summer months, so that the crop may be
thoroughly ripe in the first week of September.

In reference to the quality of certain Grapes when ripened in a high
instead of a low temperature, I could quote many authorities to cor-
roborate my own experience, and notably the evidence of your corre-
spondent, Mr J. Simpson, who wrote a few years ago, — " No one, I
think, can dispute the fact that late Grapes are better flavoured when
ripened early in the autumn under a higher temperature than they are
generally treated to. . . . The difference in flavour is so great that
they are not like the same Grapes." J. Hammond.

THE GRAPE-VINE DISCUSSION.

With regard to certain outpourings on this subject in the ' Gardener ' and else-
where, I have only to state that they are so well known to be the outcome
of long-pent-up resentment, as to deprive them of any little value they might
have possessed. I prefer to discuss such topics with those whose own reputa-
tion extends at least beyond the sound of their own trumpetings. Eeference
has been made by your correspondent to a confrere of greater literary ability
than himself, in another journal, and I can only congratulate him on the
faculty that enables him to recognise a superior when he meets one, and
admire the wisdom that teaches him to fall into the proper position of saying
ditto to whatever his master may utter in the ' Gardener ' and elsewhere. He
has something to gain and nothing to lose by connections of that kind.

J. S., W.

FLORIST'S ^FLOWERS.

For many florist's flowers, the next two months are particularly trying
ones. Verbenas and Petunias, as cases in point, very often die off
during this period. Much depends on having good established plants,
as opposed to those which are struck late, and therefore wanting in
vitality. In light modern houses there is not the same difficulty with
these, as they keep growing with very little trouble. In old dark
structures the case is materially altered, and a higher temperature is
an absolute necessity.

iS8i.] FLORIST'S FLOWERS. 565

Hollyhocks should have been lifted and potted up before this time,
so as to have got well rooted before winter sets in. These should be
kept in a slowly growing temperature, in order to supply cuttings
for January and scions for grafting in February. Summer -struck
plants are in 5-inch pots, and are also kept growing, in order to make
stock in spring.

Dahlias have kept rather badly with us for the past two winters.
It is necessary to look these over pretty often, more especially if any
signs of decay are discerned. Pot-roots, for summer-struck cuttings,
keep safely stowed away in cool houses, after the foliage has decayed.

Gladioli keep perfectly in a dry room laid out on shelves. I used
to clean them ; now I do not think this either to be a necessity or of
advantage.

Pentstemons, Carnations, Picotees, and Pansies in frames should be
kept open to the air at all times when rain and frost are absent. Those
in pots should be plunged so as to cover the rims of the pots. No
water is required during the winter months when thus plunged.

Auriculas must be kept free from damp ; decaying leaves to be
removed ; no water given in " hard " weather, and very seldom at
other times. These should have the lights kept off in favourable
weather.

Zonal Pelargoniums are at this season more attractive than at any
other time. Strong healthy grown plants in 5^ or 6 inch pots, with
the soil a simple one, and rammed perfectly firm, give grand results.
They require manure -water to keep them healthy and the trusses
large. A light structure, with the plants close to the glass and an
even temperature of 55'', keeps them blooming very continuously. I
find Pearson's varieties much the best for winter-flowering, or, per-
haps, for any other season. Where white flowers are much wanted.
White Vesuvius will be found an excellent variety. Under proper con-
ditions the plants will require a good deal of water : the want of water
is fatal to a continuous and fine bloom.

Chrysanthemums are just now at their best ; we have them into
February in good quantity, but just now the main supply is in. These
cannot be too close to the glass. The matter of 7 or 8 feet distant
is certain to render nugatory all the previous summer work. The
work calling for most particular attention with these is to get the
old stems cut down when done blooming, and to encourage the pro-
duction of healthy cuttings for the next year's crop. I always put
cuttings in as soon as they are large enough, and throw the old stools
away. For specimen plants the cuttings should not only be put in
soon, but the plants, when struck, kept growing sturdily. The freer
pompons can easily be made into specimens 3 and 4 feet across ; large
flowering varieties sometimes exceed this size. The largest plants
of these are formed from old stems, which are cut down to about a
foot of the collar, and after the latent buds have either broken, or (if

5G6 THE GARDENER. [Die.

started when cut back) are sufficiently grown, the plants are shaken out
and potted in 5-inch pots. These cannot be too firmly potted. Loam,
fresh, flaky, and dry cow manure, with bone-meal ad'^'ed, suits them
admirably. Mrs S. Rundle, ]\rrs Dixon, Lady Hardinge, Prince of
"Wales, Venus, Her Majesty, are kinds easily grown, and seem to
succeed with ordinary attention.

Primulas will be either in flower or growing freely. They will give
no trouble if grown in small pots, in a temperature of 50' to 55°, and
never allowed to become anything like dry.

Calceolarias and Cinerarias like a cool damp medium, the latter
being susceptible to harm from a very slight frost.

A friend writes to me taking exception to plaster of Paris as a
manurial agent. In our case it was used as a substitute for lime, and
was most likely mixed up in some other form by the manufacturer
who supplied the manure. Sulphate of lime is not so much esteemed
in this country as in France, where it is thought a good deal of. In
fact, like my friend, many consider its value as a manure a very pro-
blematical one. No doubt that ingredient may be left out, and also
the nitre, which is said to be a difficult material to obtain of manurial
value, and a mixture of sulphate of potash or muriate of potash, and
sulphate of ammonia substituted. R. P. Brotherston.

POTTING MATERIAIi FOR ORCHIDS.

A VARIETY of opinions have recently been advanced regarding what is
the best potting material for Orchids in general. Mr Bruce Finlay, of
the Manchester Botanic Gardens, has recently recommended, from his
own experience, that Cattleyas are likely to do best in crocks without
admixture of soil of any description. In reference to this suggestion,
other noted growers have maintained that some peat should be used
with the crocks. A writer in a contemporary lately recommended that
no peat should be used for the majority of Orchids, but only sphagnum
and potsherds and charcoal. No doubt, in the growth of a good many
genera, a happy mean between these rival systems has been found
most satisfactory.

We believe, however, that, as a rule. Orchid-growers use much less
peat now than they did twenty years ago, and are more particular as to
the texture of what they do use. There is one point on which we believe
all are quite agreed, and that is, that the less peat there is in an
Orchid-pot unoccupied with roots, the more likely is the potful of
material to remain sweet and wholesome, and the plant itself healthy.
A few years ago a lot of Orchids came into our hands that had been
potted with a liberal admixture of peat, evidently without having the
finer portion separated from the fibre. On turning out the plants they

i88i.] POTTING MATERIAL FOR ORCHIDS. 567

were found to have plenty of roots, but they consisted of cast-metal
pegs, to steady the plants on the top of a sour mass of black peat
and small crocks. The soil, on being squeezed in the hand, came
through between the fingers something as soft grafting clay would.
This may be considered the very worst possible kind of material for
Orchids, and is happily not now used in many cases, if any.

After trying a good many proportions of the fibre of the tough-
est peat and clean living sphagnum, mixed with charcoal and potsherd,
we have been induced to use less and less of the peat and charcoal,
and more of the sphagnum and potsherd. We grow somewhere about
thirty sorts of Cypripediums, and find now, beyond all doubt, that they
do best with us in nothing but sphagnum and crocks, using charcoal
lumps in the very bottom of the pot for lightness. Our objection to
charcoal in many instances is, that unless the watering be very care-
fully attended to — a matter not always easily guaranteed— it holds too
much water, and rots the roots.

In the case of Odontoglossums, we have used, as a rule, about half
the fibry part of peat and sphagnum. But last season a few were
potted in pure sphagnum, and if there be any difference, we think it
is in favour of the latter, and we intend extending the experiment.
The same applies to Lycaste Skinnerii.

For a good many years we potted our Calanthes in about equal pro-
portions of peat and sphagnum, with dry horse-droppings mixed, and
the bulbs of C. Veitchii often attained to the dimensions of a foot
or more in length, with bloom-spikes in proportion. Two years ago
we happened to be short of peat and sphagnum at the time of potting
them, and we used the somewhat orthodox mixture of turfy loam and
a little manure ; but two years of this material have, with us, brought
down the bulbs to very much less dimensions. And this season, when
they were in full growth, we were dissatisfied with their condition ',
so we shook them out of the loam, and repotted them in peat and
sphagnum, with the result that they improved every day afterwards.
No more loam in our case, therefore, shall be used for Calanthes. Yet
others grow them well in loam.

We find also that the less of lumpy peat there is about the roots
of such as Dendrobiums nobile and thyrsifiora, the better they thrive.
The mere fibre of peat, sphagnum, and potsherd we consider much safer
material. Roots multiply and ramify more equally in the latter mix-
ture ; and when that is the case, and with plenty of water in the
growing season, the growth is more robust and clean.

Frequent repotting may be regarded as an evil in Orchid-growing,
but where much lumpy peat is used it is a necessity, or rotten roots
will be the result as soon as the peat sours. But when rather small
pots than otherwise are used, with sweet fibre and sphagnum and pot-
sherds for potting material, and these get in possession of the roots, fre-
quent shifting is not necessary, and there is not nearly so much danger

568 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

from over-watering. To liave a surface of living sphagnum is a factor
of considerable importance in keeping the material sweet, and in giving
warning when water is needed, especially in the case of such genera as
Cypripediums and Odontoglossums.

Many years ago Mr Turnbull of Bothwell grew some specimens of
certain genera of Orchids, such as Miltonias, to the greatest perfection
we have ever seen, and the potting material was chiefly the tough roots
of Luzula maxima, which plant, to the best of our recollection, Mr
Turnbull top-dressed with leaf -mould, to encourage it to make masses
of fibry roots for potting with.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

On page 514 of the last issue of the ' Gardener,' Mr Muir's article on
this subject will not meet with the approval of all growers of this fine
autumn flower. Why should a cultivator, because he has some pecu-
liar fancy for one system of growing these plants, write of the training
requisite to obtain fine large flowers as useless 1 There are those who
do not admire Chrysanthemums unless the blooms are large and
symmetrical, and display the real character of the variety. Many
kinds, especially amongst the Japanese, cannot be grown to display
that peculiarity of form so characteristic of this section, when grown as
Mr Muir recommends. Certainly some varieties, as Elaine, James
Salter, and others, can be usefully grown for cutting and decoration,
and will, when allowed to develop on a semi-natural system, produce
a more gorgeous display. While I grow hundreds of useful kinds
without subjecting them to much training or disbudding, I also grow
many others on the system of which Mr Muir writes disapprovingly.
What can be more beautiful than flowers of Elaine 8 inches over, and
2, 4, or 6, from one pot — or more, if desirable ? Well-developed blooms
are not to be despised; in fact, they quickly arrest the attention of those
who do not admire Chrysanthemums. A new Japanese variety named
Parosal, is useless if grown on Mr Muir's system ; but when developed
under the conditions necessary for the production of exhibition
blooms it is a great beauty, and could not fail, I feel sure, to please
Mr Muir, if he saw a good bloom. Many others might be enumerated,
but this is sufficient for an example, to show that the beauty of
many of these varieties cannot be brought out to perfection, when
grown as low natural-spreading bushes, without being at the trouble
of disbudding them. Some kinds do attain a large height when pro-
pagated early, but this is not the case when rooted later ; and large
well-developed blooms can be produced in comparatively small pots,
the stems varying in height from 18 inches to 3 feet. These are valu-
able, and the flowers can be looked down upon, and can be arranged
to rise out of low dwarf-growing flowering-plants, and give to the

i88i.] CHAMPION & MAGNUM BONUM POTATOES. 569

whole a beautiful appearance. Circumstances frequently alter cases,
and Mr Muir's plants would be useless for our side stages; there-
fore I do not think it wise to urge any one particular system as
right, and condemn all others. The height to which the plants
attain, is not sufhcient reason for a cultivator to condemn a system.
I have, at the time of writing, over 100 plants of Elaine and
James Salter, and the majority of them are between 6 and 7 feet high.
These are specially grown for the position they have to occupy, and
Mr Muir's low plants would be of no service. The plants referred to
have at least 3 feet of clear stem, and some of them are carrying nearly
100 flowers : they look natural in spite of their height — and would be
even more beautiful if, at least, 2 feet taller. What can be more con-
spicuous than a plant of Elaine, or any other good variety, rising
from among Palms, Ferns, Camellias, and other large permanent con-
servatory specimens 1

Mr Muir evidently has not paid much attention to the growing of
large blooms, or he would have discovered that the plants are not grown
to the height he mentions without being stopped. They are stopped,
otherwise they would stop themselves — at least twice during the season
— and valuable time would be lost. Mr Muir must consider there are
many growers of Chrysanthemums who, if they produced only poor
flowers on low natural-spreading bushes, w^ould quickly be discharged.

SCIENTIA.

CHAMPION AND MAGNUM BONUM POTATOES.

As might have been expected, cottagers and small growers have "gone
into" these varieties extensively, but with various results as regards
success — some declaring they have had very heavy crops, while others
have no crop at all, or at least none worth speaking of. In the latter
case, I believe the result has been due almost wholly to too close plant-
ing, aggravated, perhaps, by rather late seasons. In this district,
which is a late one, the most conflicting testimony is given regarding
the yield of the two sorts named. That in some cases the yield has
been small I have myself ascertained, but it was, as I have stated, be-
cause the sets were too thick on the ground. Cottagers are proverbi-
ally prejudiced against wide planting, thinking it is a waste of space,
being naturally anxious to make the most of their small plots. From
what I have seen of the Champion here and the Magnum Bonum, I am
of opinion that the rows should be 5 feet asunder, and the sets at least
18 inches apart. The haulm grows that height, and, so far as I have
noticed, the crop has always been in proportion to the space allowed to
the tops. Planted much thicker, both sorts get to be a tangled thicket
of attenuated roots. Both varieties do produce enormous crops under
favourable conditions, and they are the kinds for the cottager; for they

570 THE GARDENER. [Di:c.

keep well, and are in tine condition and really yood late the following
season, when most other sorts are over, or nearly so, and new Potatoes
have not yet come in for general use. The mistake of too close
planting is very common. Every kind ought at least to be allowed
the height of the haulm between the rows The same space is usually
given to every crop, princijially, it seems, because anything less than
IS inches is barely sufficient for any kind ; but with tall-growing sorts
the necessities of the case are not always realised. 2i or 3 feet
between the rows is little enough for any late variety almost, and
for some of the latest growers even more room should be given.
The advantages of plenty of space are more apparent in forcing
the Potato than in growing it outdoors. When crowded in a
frame, no crop at all is the result ; but given room, all forcing sorts
are very productive. In order to afford the stems as much light as
possible, and keep them from falling over and getting crowded, I have
at times gone to the trouble of supporting them with stakes, and
with great advantage to the crop. Of course the sets had been dis-
budded before planting, so that there were not a great number of stems
to support, and all were good and strong. J. S.

A GOOD TURNIP.
Any reader of the ' Gardener ' who has not grown " Harrison's Early
Marble Turnip " should make a note of it, and include it in his seed
list when ordering seeds for next year.

I had it on trial this season, and in my opinion it is the best Turnip
for garden culture that I have seen. The flesh is very solid and white ;
and whether cooked or uncooked, it is the sweetest in flavour that I
ever tasted. J. Hammond.

THE IMPORTANCE OF ROOT -INSPECTION.

Our fickle climate, great rainfall, and late severity of winters, all tend
to make our subject one of pressing importance. More especially do
we need to look to the roots of fruit-trees cultivated under glass, from
which average crops are annually expected, let climatic difficulties be
what they may. We desire, then, to make a few observations upon
the root-action of the Vine, Peach, Nectarine, and Fig, and its general
bearing upon their growth and fruitfulness.

In Vine-culture, the first step to success lies in the right manage-
ment of root and fibre, and this can only be done by constant watch-
fulness. In order to the exercising of care and vigilance, the three
years' extension system of Vine-border-making cannot be too strongly
recommended. Under the old system of making the full extent of

i88i.] THE IMPORTANCE OE ROOT INSPECTION. 571

border at once, the Vine, after planting, seldom or never undergoes
any systematic inspection. The consequence is, that in place of the
roots being kept near the surface, they too often go the reverse way,
while those produced are of long, fibreless, unripened material.
Under the more protracted system, we have the roots constantly
under control, at least for the first three years. The direction of the
roots can be easily ascertained, and those destitute of fibre at once
brought under treatment, thus giving a freedom of access to the
whole border. As each part of compost is added to the border, it at
once imparts new vitality to the whole, — for the reason that each
addition of compost must be much more fully charged with life-giving
qualities than if it had been a soddened mass in the almost unoccupied
border. Another advantage of not less importance is the longer time
that is given for the completion of the whole, thus giving a better
chance for the drawing together of a more suitable compost. Such an
advantage will be a special benefit to those whose resources in this
direction are somewhat limited. We seldom, however, fully realise
the importance of root-inspection until the plague of " shanking" has
to be fairly faced. Such a condition plainly indicates an unhealthy
root-action. This can often be prevented by careful surface-dressing,
with the object of checking downward growth and drawing the roots
more to the surface. Before surfacing, all loose soil should be removed
down to the roots, when they may be carefully examined. If it is then
found that they are in a very unhealthy condition, the best plan would
be to make preparations for renewing the borders. Supposing the
Vines are planted both inside and out, it will be best to renew one
half one year and the other half the following season, thus doing the
work in sections, which would be more convenient as well as effective.
The almost incessant rains of the winter months make the outside
protection of Vine-borders an urgent necessity, whether they be in-
tended for early or late work. Essential as inspection is for the right
development of root-action, we must claim an equal position for pro-
tection as a preservative of the work done. Many kinds of material
have been recommended for the purpose : corrugated iron is perhaps
preferable, owing to its durability, and the ease with which rain finds
its way down the corrugated surface. In Peach and Nectarine culture
root-inspection is at times necessary, in order to keep under gross
growth. In doing so, a trench should be taken out beyond where the
roots are likely to have reached, and then commence carefully to lift
the roots up to the bole of the tree. If considered necessary, the roots
should be carefully examined as the process goes on, and those much
larger than others, or likely to take the lead, should be cut back.
They may then be relaid upon a layer of fresh loam, with another coat-
ing on the top, and the whole made fairly firm. The best season of
the year for this operation is when the leaves are about ready to fall,
so that no check may be given to the ripening of the wood.

572 THE GARDENER. [Dec.

In those more genial climes where the Peach and Nectarine bear in
great plenty and freedom under outside treatment, the roots are left
much to their natural growth, so that root-limitation is little practised.
The roots are kept near the surface by the more powerful influence of
the solar rays. Gross growth is by this means prevented, as also by
heavy cropping and judicious pinching of the young shoots. The
above, of course, relates chiefly to young trees ; and we must acknow-
ledge there is much wisdom in such a mode of procedure. The
" pinching" enables the tree to direct its energies to the weaker parts,
whilst the heavy cropping uses up much of that surplus strength which
shows itself in gross growth. We may here observe that the roots of
the Peach and Nectarine are much benefited by surface-dressings. In
the case of weak and exhausted trees, the compost should be a liberal
one. In ordinary cases a surfacing of good sound loam will be suffi-
cient. As to Fig-culture, it must he repeated — as, if success is to be
attained, the roots must come in for an equal share of attention. This
need of attention relates in an especial manner to young trees during the
first two years after planting. If root-examining be then neglected,
much time will be lost before they can be brought into fruiting condition.
In order to inspect the roots, a trench 3 or 4 feet from the stem should
be taken out, the roots carefully lifted, preserving those of a more
fibrous character, whilst those with little or no fibre may be shortened
back. This operation, however, requires the exercise of some little
amount of judgment. Those who have seen the Fig bearing abun-
dantly on an outside border, will generally have observed that the
space allotted for root-action was somewhat limited.

I remember such a border which extended not more than 12
yards, running in an east and west direction, and from which large
quantities of fruit were annually gathered. In the case referred to, the
border was limited to a narrow strip of 10 feet, by walks running par-
allel on each side, which, when made, were taken out to a depth of 3
feet, and then filled in with stone. Such an arrangement formed an
effectual barrier against all root-intrusion. As they would not much
care for such hungry quarters, this simple example may perhaps show
in a practical manner the importance of confining the roots of the Fig
as much as possible. Wm. Forbes.

DUNDEE HORTICULTURAL ASSOCIATION.

The ol-dinary monthly meeting of this Association was held in Reform Street
Hall, on Wednesday evening, the 2d ult. The president, Mr Doig, Rossie Priory
Gardens, in the chair. There was a full attendance of the members. Mr
Brebner read a paper on the "Movements of Plants," being a resume, of the
contents of Dr Darwin's book upon that subject. He described his experi-
ments in proof of the universality of the law of circumnutation in radicles,
stems, leaves, and flowers, and showed the advantage to the plant of this
movement. The modifications of this law in climbing and sleeping plants,

i88i,

ORCHIDS IN FLOWER.

573

and in plants when exposed to the influence of lateral light, were then de-
scribed and discussed.

Attention was also directed to the peculiar sensitiveness of the tip of the
radicle to the action of gravitation, and to contact with solid bodies. It
transmits a secret influence to the adjoining portion of the root, and thus acts
as its guide along the course best calculated to enable it to extract nutriment
from the soil. At the close of his paper, Mr Brebner expressed the hope that
Darwin's researches and discoveries would stimulate gardeners to observe
more carefully the wondrous processes which were going on in the vegetable
world around them. The paper was illustrated by models and diagrams ; and
at the close, on the motion of the president, a hearty vote of thanks was
accorded to Mr Brebner, A seedling Apple was exhibited by Mr D. Mitchell,
gardener to G, B. Simpson, Esq., Seafield, Broughty-Ferry ; also a hamper
of Grampian Potatoes from JNIr H. Johnstone, gardener to Thomas Gilroy,
Esq., Tighudiun, Monifieth. The hamper consisted of fourteen tubers, weigh-
ing 19 lb., and the average produce per pole was 15 stones.

LIST OF ORCHIDS I^N FLOWER

AT THE Kilns, Falkirk, November.

Burlingtouia Candida.
Calanthe Veitchii.

II II superba.

II rubro-ociilata.
Cattleya guttata.
II rnarginata.
II maxima superba.
Pinelli.
Cielogyne ocellata maxima.
Cymbidium Lowianum.

u sinense.

Cypripedium Argus.

,1 barbatum.

II concolor.

II Dominiana.

n insigne.

It Javanicum.

II longifolium.

II Eoezlii.

II venustum.

II II pardinum.

lonopsis paniculata.
Lielia albida.
II anceps.
II autumnalis.
II II atrorubens (very

tine).
II peduncularis.
11 superbiens.
Lycaste Skinnerii.
Masdevallia bella.

II Chima^ra.

II Harryana.

II ignea.

II II rubescens.

Masdevallia Lindenii.

It II superba.

II Tovarensis.

11 Veitchiana.

Odontoglossum Alexandras (crispumy,
upwards of 30 spikes, one of them
4 feet 4 inches long.
Odontoglossum , Andersonianum lo-
batum.
II cirrhosum.

II cordatum.

II grande (many spikes).

II maculatumsuperbum.

II Pescatorei (many

spikes).
II pulchellum major.

II Rossii majus.

Oncidium aurosum.
II cucullatura.
II tlexuosum.
II Forbesii.

It ornithorhyncum album.
II tigrinum.
It varicosum.
Pescatoria Dayana,

It Klabochiana.

Phaleenopsis amabilis.

II Schilleriana.

II violacea.

Pilumna fragrans.

II nobilis.
Saceolabium giganteum.
II violaceuni.

Zygopetalum Gautiorii.

11 Mackayi intermedia.

George Fairbaikx.

574

THE GARDENER.

[Dfx-.

LIST OF ORCHIDS IN FLOWER

Ai' Fki:xi-ii:li), nuiDCi; ok Ali.an, November.

]\[asdevallias. — amabilis, Davisii,
ignea, Chimiera "Wallisii, Lin-
denii, bella, Veitchiana, Veitch-
iana superba, inelanopus.

Odontoglossums. — grande, constric-
tum, Uro- Skinueri (fine var.),
nebulosum, candidulum, Rossi
inajus, bictoD lease, Alexandrse,
Londsboroughianum.

Maxillarias. — grandiHora, lepidota,
picta.

Pleiones. — lagenaria, AVallichiaua,
maculata. Misospinidium Vul-
canicum.

Miltonias. — Clowesii major, Morel-
liana atro rubens (rare var.)

Sophronites. — cernua, grandiilora,
purpurea (new var.)

Cypripediums. — insigne, veuustum,
Harrisianum.

Epidendrums. — rhizopboruni, erec-
tum, sp.

()ncidiuins. — tigrinum, Forbesii, vari-
cosum, cheirophorum, crispum,
serratum, Sehlimii.

I>a3lias. — autumnalis, elegans.

Lycastes. — Skinneri, lanipes.

Ccclogyne speciosa.

Zygopetalums. — Mackayi, maxillari.

Neotia picta maculata.

Uendrobiums. — superbiens, bigib-
bum, chrysanthum.

Phaltcnopsis. — Lowii, amabilis.

Vanda. — Bensoni, multiflora.

Cattleyas. — labiata (true), margin-
ata, Loddigesii.

Aerides Keichenbacliii.

Cymbidium giganteum.

Vanda ceerulea, Sir Trevor Law-
rence's (fine var, )

Dr Paterson bad the honour of presenting her Majesty with a splendid
bouquet of Orchids at Perth on the 22d, when on her journey south.

NOTICES OF BOOKS.

Bulbs and Bulb-Culture, Vol. II. By D. T. Fish. Bazaar
Office, London.

Like the first volume of this work on Bulbs by the same busy author, the
second one contains historical and descriptive notes, with very full practical
instructions for the successful culture of Cyclamens, Dahlias, Gladiolus, Iris,
Ixias, Sparaxis, Tritonias, Babianas, Lachenalia, Ranunculus, Schizostylis,
Scillas, Tigridia. All these are treated of in a thoroughly practical manner ;
and those who require a reliable guide to Bulb-Culture cannot do better than
possess themselves of Mr Fish's handy volumes.

The Herefordshihe Pomona, Part IV. London : David Bogue, 3 St
Mark's Place, Trafalgar Square. Hereford : Lakeman & Carver, High
Town.

This Part of this magnificent work follows up and completes the i)ractical
treatise on the Orchard and its Produce ; the Management of the Fruit and
Cider -house; the Process of Fermentation, its Theory, Varieties, Practice,
and Difficulties ; the Manufacture of Cider and Perry ; the Orchard in its
Financial Aspect and its Prospect, by C. H. Bulwer, M.A. These matters are
treated of in a thoroughly practical manner. The Part contains, besides,
accurate descriptions with beautifully coloured portraits of 29 varieties of
Apples and 35 varieties of Pears. These portraits are even more beautifully-
executed, if that be possible, than those of the three former Parts. It is
scarcely possible that any one who purchases this splendid work can be disap-
pointed with it.

i8St."

CALENDAR.

S. Owens & Co.'s (IMauufacturers of Hydraulic Machinery of every description)
Illustrated Catalogue. Whitefriars Street, Fleet Street, London.
This is one of the best got up Catalogues we have ever seen. It gives
illustrations of almost every descrijition of hydraulic machinerj', and a great
amount of useful information regarding it ; and all who are interested in such
machinery will be benefited by a perusal of this catalogue.

CJaltntrar

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

Pines. — Should the weather be cold
and the days sunless, the temperature
for Pines in all stages of growth should
be at a minimum throughout the whole
of this month. For suckers a tem-
perature of 55° at night will be suffi-
cient, when hard firing is necessary.
If these are being wintered in light
houses with bottom-heat supplied from
hot-water pipes, 75° to 80° is quite
Hufiicient to keep the roots healthy.
Look over the plants carefully once
a- week, and water such only as re-
([uire it, taking care never to allow
the soil to become dusty-dry ; for if
allowed to remain so for any length
of time, the plants are apt to be
checked and stunted, and to start pre-
maturely into fruit when subjected to
more heat and moisture. Plants that
are plunged in beds of moist tan and
leaves require comparatively little
water for the next month or six
weeks. Where ripe Pines are wanted
in May and June, a portion of the
earliest Queens should be selected, and
})laced in a light structure by them-
selves, at the end of the month. Give
them a bottom -heat of 90°, and a
night - temperature of 70°, with 10°
more by day when there is any sun.
If very dry at the root, give them a
watering, but do not supply this ele-
ment too liberally until it be certain
that the plants are going to show fruit
without making a growth ; for early
fruit can be had only from such
plants as have been well matured,
and show fruit without making a
growth. Keep a moist atmosphere,
but do not give much moisture in the
soil. The remainder of the fruiting-
plants should be kept cool and dry.
A temperature of from 55° to 60° will be
sufficiently high for these till the sun
gets more power, and solar heat can
be husbanded for the night. Continue
to supply to those swelling their fruits

a rather moist atmosphere, a tempera-
ture of 70° in the air, and from 85° to
90° of bottom-heat. Examine every
plant at least once a-week, and water
such as are dry with weak manure-
water, so that each plant is kept in a
moderately moist condition. As soon
as the fruit begins to colour, give no
more water till ripe, for especially
large fruits are apt to get black at the
heart by the time they are fully ripe,
if much water is given. Suckers on
plants from which the fruit is cut
should be taken off and potted in 6-inch
pots, plunged in a bottom-heat of 85°,
and an air-temperature of 60° to 65°,
till well rooted. Strong early suckers
that were put into their fruiting-pots
j in October, and that are in light pits,
I and kept near the glass, should be
kept at a temperature of 60° to 65^,
according to the weather. When the
glass rises to 70° by day, give a little
air for a few hours, always shutting
up early. These, if kept growing
without a check and rested in June,
will give fine fruit next winter.

Grapes. ^If the leaves are not all
off late Vines on which crops of Grapes
are hanging, they should be remov-
ed before decomposition takes place
in the leaves and their footstalks.
Look over the bunches weekly and
remove all mouldy berries. Do not
let the night -temperature fall below
45°, nor rise above 50° with fire-heat.
During the prevalence of damp fogs,
keep the front lights closed, warm the
pipes slightly, and keep a little air on
the top. When a fine bright day oc-
curs, put a little extra heat into the
pipes, and ventilate freely, so as to
expel damp. If it be necessary to put
plants requiring water into the vinery,
the best way is to cut the whole of
the Grapes, and bottle them in some
cool dry room where an equable tem-
perature cau be maintained : then the

576

THE GARDENER.

[Dec.

Vines can be pnined and kept cool.
Where ripe lianiburgs and other
early sorts are required for use early
in May, some good i)ot-Vine8 should
now be started. It is not necessary
to ripen early Grapes before May, now
that we have so many good Grajjcs that
will hang and keep in bottles so well
in spring ; nor is it desirable to strain
permanent Vines by starting them in
the dead of winter, when the first
crop can be taken so easily and well
from pot -Amines. In starting these j
early pot- Vines, keep the atmosphere }
moist ; and in order to start them in
time, it is necessary to keep them at
00° till the buds are fairly moved,
when a few degrees less at night, and
a few degrees more by day, should be
given till the blooming period ; when,
in order to ripen them at the given
time, the temperature should be grad-
ually increased as the sun gains power
and the daylight lengthens. If a
gentle bottom -heat from fermenting
leaves can be given, all the better,
but it should not exceed 75°. Put the
house of permanent Vines, to be started
by the end of this or beginning of
next month, in order. If a bed of
fermenting material can be placed on
the inside border, it is an excellent
means of supplying heat and moisture,
and it saves fuel. Prune and other-
wise get ready for starting succession
houses. Where there have not been
any insects, such as thrip or spider,
last season, do not scrape the Vines
much ; but if there has been either,
remove all loose bark, scrub the
Vines well with soapy water, and then
dress with Gishurst's Compound, at the
rate of 12 ounces to the gallon of water.
Where there is mealy-bug on the Vines
scrape them rather severely, and scrub
them with a hard brush and soft-soapy
water. Fill up every crevice about the
spurs with styptic, and then dress with
Gishurst's Compound, in which some
hellebore-powder is mixed. This and
careful watching, and hand - picking
in spring when the Vines begin to
grow, is the safest and surest remedy
for this worst of all pests (except
phylloxera) on Vines. Now is a good
time to prepare for making new Vine-
borders. The first thing to secure is a
site from which all water passes as
soon as it reaches it. For good and
permanent results a rather heavy loam [
is preferable ; and the less manure, ex- I
cept bones and horn-shavings, that is {

mixed with it the better. The man-
uring should afterwards be supplied
on the Huiface, when the Vines get
into full bearing.

Peaches. — Trees from which ripe
Peaches are expected by the first week
of May should be shut up at once, and
kept from falling below 45° at night,
liy the middle of the month apply fire-
heat sufficient to keep the heat at 50°
when cold, and 55° when mild. Syringe
the trees two or three times daily, after
firing commences, with tei)id water.
See that the border is thoroughly
moist, and any portion of it that is
outside well protected with fern or
dry litter. Prune and tie succession
trees, and after they are tied, syringe
them with paraffin at the rate of a
wine-glassful to a gallon of water. This
is the only dressing we use for Peach-
trees now, and find it most efi"ectual
against green-fly, &c. Where young
trees are to be planted, get the work
completed as soon as possible. A
heavy loam, thoroughly drained, and
devoid of all animal manure, is best
for Peaches. Do not cut the trees any
further back than to hard well-ripened
wood.

Figs. — Where early Figs are in
demand, a light pit or low house
should be got in readiness, where trees
in pots can be started after the middle
of the month. Bottom-heat from a
bed of leaves is of the first importance
in early Fig-forcing. It should not
exceed '80°, and the air temperature
should be from 50° to 55° the first
month. To secure this, very little fire-
heat is required, if the pots be plunged
in a bed of oak-leaves. Syringe the
plants several times a -day, and see
that they are kept steadily moist at
the root with water, at about 80°. As
soon as ever the buds begin to move,
top-dress the pots with loam and horse-
droppings.

Cucumbers.— This is a trying month
for Cucumbers. When the weather is
mild keep the heat at 70° ; when very
cold a few degrees less will be suffi-
cient. Add a covering of fresh soil to
the mounds in which they are grow-
ing, as the roots extend, and keep
them steadily and moderately moist
at the root. Give air for a few hours
daily, shutting up early. Do not
much exceed the night -temperature
by day in the absence of sunshine, or
else the leaves will be thin and sickly.
Do not allow them to bear very much

i88i.]

CALENDAR.

this month ; attend to the stopping of
growing shoots, and do not allow the
foliage to become crowded. Keep the
glass clean, so that as much light as
possible can get at them.

Strawberries in Pots.— Put a quan-
tity of these into such as the early
Peach - house and vinery, where no
Strawberry-house proper exists. But

where they can be placed on a bed of
fermenting leaves close to the glass, it
is the best place for them. Put those
in the smallest pots in heat first. See
that there are no worms in the soil,
and that it is moist. Do not exceed
a night -heat of 50° till they have
started to grow, and give them more
or less air every day.

KITCHEN-GARDEN.

This being the last month of the year,
it is a very suitable time to "take
stock " of the garden and its produce ;
note what improvements on the past
system of management may have at-
tention ; also the value of the class
of vegetables which have been cul-
tivated — what should be discarded,
and what are worthy of retaining
for future crops. Such a system, well
carried out, saves disappointment and
waste. The seed-bill will soon be put
into form, and one does not wish a
repetition of inferior and unsuitable
kinds. All gardening practice should
be made as simple as possible; and
noting one's experience tends greatly
towards that end. Few practical men
keep in the same beaten track with
due success attending it. Improve-
ments can be made in most gardens,
however small they may be. We find
that we have many kinds of vegetables
which we would not like to cultivate
on our heavy land again. Several
varieties of Celery, Brussels Sprouts,
Lettuce, Onions, and Potatoes, are in
the list, which will require revision.
Celery, as an example, is large, well
blanched, and sound ; but while some
of the kinds are solid, nutty, and of
general good quality, others, though
large, are very inferior. Two kinds we
like much are Major Clarke's Red and
Turner's Incomparable — the latter is
under many synonyms.

Arrange as far as possible what the
plots are to contain next year, and
manure or other preparations can be
applied accordingly. Roots do well
where ground was well prepared the
previous year with manure. Most crops
do satisfactorily in deep well-prepared
ground. Cabbage and most of the
Brassica kinds (not Broccoli) thrive on
well-manured land. What improve-
ments are to be made (if any) should
have attention while weather is open.
Treading about on wet ground is a
practice which should be abhorred.

Plenty of work in frost}^ weather is
always at hand : stake-making, seed-
cleaning, Onion and root inspecting,
label-making (large ones are wanted
for vegetable crops), manure-turning,
burning of brushwood, and storing the
ashes for using as a mixture in soils.
A good quantity of leaves ought to be
stored where they can be had. AVheu
rotted by using them in hotbeds or
otherwise, they are excellent for heavy
soils, or such as do not require rich
dressings of manure. Trenching and
digging may be pushed forward where
any ground becomes vacant. Manure-
wheeling is always suitable for frosty
weather. The last three winters of
severe weather caught many "nap-
ping," which led to a deal of bustle
when spring arrived. Protecting of
crops must not be overlooked. Arti-
chokes, if not already done, should
have litter placed round their collars,
or fine coal - ashes. This applies to
Globe kinds. The roots of Jerusalem
Artichokes may be protected with
ashes or litter placed over them.
They are hardy, but when severe
weather sets in they cannot be got
from the ground if left exposed. Cel-
ery should have litter thrown over the
ridges ; but they are better exposed
while weather is mild. Asparagus
should not be smothered with heavy,
wet, holding manure. Well-rotted hot-
bed manure suits it well, and richer
stuff may be given early in spring, and
neatly pointed into the ground. Chan-
nels may be made to lead off surplus
water. Peas and Beans may be sown
on a warm dry border, and dusted
with red-lead mixed with ashes : rats
and mice would then be kept from
them. Earth up Celery where re-
quired, but not to choke up the hearts
and cause rotting. Beet may be cov-
ered with ashes, if preferred to have
it fresh from the ground.

Broccoli may be lifted to pits if such
are to spare for protection. Orchard-

578

THE GARDENER.

Bv.c. iSSi.

bouses and such structures are of much
value for the purpose of protecting
vegetables. Heeling them over is an
old practice which still has many ad-
mirers. Certainly, when ])lants are
close to the ground, the use of litter in
extra sharp weather is of good ellect,
and can be easily a})plied. Some are
l)leased with huge plants ; but stiff,
firm, small ones are most preferable.
AVe have seen the inexperienced de-
lighted with their gross growth, while
their neighbour, from sad experience,
aimed at small hardy plants of Broc-
coli ; and we need not say who had
most to be thankful for when spring
arrived. Lettuce and Endive should
be put under protection against severe
weather. A board laid over the En-
dive blanches it well ; or it may be
tied up till it is white in the hearts.

Leeks and Parsnips should be put
into store (small lots at a time) against
severe weather. Turnips may have
the soil drawn over them in the rows.
A quantity may be placed in pits, or
covered with straw in sheds or out-
houses. A warm border should be
prepared for early crops, such as
Carrots, Potatoes, Radishes, &c. When
thrown up to the weather for a few

weeks, and then well broken, mixing
in it sand and light soil, it is in good
c()ndition for line seeds or early crops
of any kind, Foicing of Asparagus,
French Beans, Rhubarb, and Seakaie
should now be on the way if these are
to be had at Christmas : attend to former
directions regarding them. Potatoes
(early Kidneys) may be placed in heat
and moisture, to sprout and get ready
for planting in pots, or on gentle
warmth in pits or frames. Put plenty
of small salads into growth. Make
Mushroom-beds often, of small size
in preference to large. If one lot
goes wrong, the other soon takes its
place. Small beds every fortnight or
three weeks are safer than large ones
made once in two months or so. Herbs
should be potted or boxed, according
to the quantity wanted. Mint, Tara-
gon. Sorrel, and some others are what
there is most demand for. Parsley,
Cauliflower, and other plants in frames,
should have all the air possible ; only
keep of!" severe frost and drenching
rains. Portable plant-protectors (now
so favourably known) are of great
value in vegetable-gardens, or where-
ever one may wish to keep off severe
weather. M. T.

All business comuiuuications and all Advertisements should be addressed to
the Publishers, and communications for insertion in the ' Gardener ' to David
Thomson, Drumlaurig Gardens, Thornhill, Dumfriesshire. It will further
oblige if all matter intended for publication, and questions to be replied to,
be received by the 14th of the month, and written on one side of the paper
only. It is also requested that writers forward their name and address, not
for publication unless they wish it, but for the sake of that mutual confidence
which should exist between the Editor and those who address him. We
decline noticing any communication which is not accompanied with name and
address of writer,

G. F. N, — In our present issue you will find some remarks on
materials for potting Orchids that may be of service to you. And we
are bappy to announce to you, and our readers in general, that we
liave arranged for a series of papers on Orchid-culture, to be written
by a most extensive cultivator, and one who is acknowledged to stand
in the front rank of Orchid - growers. These papers will appear
monthly, beginning in January.

A. H, — Your Vines have doubtless suffered from the wet adhesive state
of the border, aggravated by the sunless season experienced in Scotland,
You will never have satisfactory results until you lift and replant the Vines
in proper soil— a good holding loam lying on perfect drainage.

S, T. — Peaches — Royal George, Violet Hative, Sea Eagle, Walburton Ad-
mirable. Nectarines— Humboldt, Pine-Apple, Pitmaston Orange, Victoria,

INDEX.

Acacia, the, 217, 499.
Agapaiithus iinibellatus, 132.
Allamandas for autumn and winter,

492.
Amateurs, hints for : —

January : Hardy fruits, 20 — flower-
garden, 21 — greenhouse and conser-
vatory, 22.
' February : Greenhouse and conserva-
tory, QQ — stove, 67 — flower-gar-
den, 68— hardy fruits, 69.
March : Flower - ga rden , 114 — rose-
garden, greenhouse, and conserva-
tory, 115— stove, 116.
April: Greenhouse and conservatory,
160 — stove, 161 — flower-garden,
162— hardy fruits, 163.
iMay: Hardy fruits, 212— shrubs, 213
— flower-garden, 214 — plant-struc-
tures, 215.
June: Hardy fruits, 259 — orchard-
liouse, 260 — flower-garden, 260 —
phmt-structures, 261 — stoves, 262.
July : Hardy fruits, 307 — orchard-
house, 307 — flower-garden, 308 —
plant-structures, 308.
August: Hardy fruits, 356 — plant-
structures, 358.
Sejytemhcr : Flower - gardeu, 402 —
plant - structures, 403 — hardy
fruit, 405.
October : Hardy fruits, 456 — shrubs,
457— flower-garden, 458 — plant-
structures, 458.
November: Hardy fruits, 495 — or-
chard-house, 497— flower-garden,
498— plant-house, 498.
December: Hardy fruits, 536 — flower-
garden, 537 — rose - garden, 538 —
])lant- structures, 538.
Amateurs, Rose notes for, 126.
Annuals, 154.
Anthurium, Andre's new scarlet, 491,

532.
Aphlexis, the, 395.
Aponogeton distaidiyon, 231.
Apple, the, 201, 243, 302, 351, 397.
Apples, &c., 523.
Apricots, 510.

Asparagus-culture, 149, 328— competi-
tion, 280.

Auriculas, 262.

Autumn treatment of Gladiolus, 519.

Azalea, the, 9.

Balsam, the, 166.

Bedding-out system, the, 122, 182.

Bedding - out or massing system in
flower-gardening, 72.

Bedding-plants and florist flowers, sea-
sonable notes on, 84.

Benevolent Institution, the Gardeners',
278.

Black Currants, 550.

Blandfordia, the, 326.

Books, notices of, 135, 237, 285, 334,
574.

Borders of mixed hardy flowers, the
furnishing of, 101.

Boronia, the, 341, 453.

Botanical Gardens, Sydney, New South
Wales, 360.

Botany for gardeners : III. Stems, 29
— iV. Leaves, 30 — V. Leaf and
flower -buds, 87 — VI. Inflorescence,
&c.. 129— VII. the Ovule, &c., 225
—VIII. Fruit, 321— IX. Seeds, 415
—X. Seeds, 521.

Bothwell Castle, Cattleya labiata at,
38.

Broccoli, notes on, 209.

Broccoli crop, how it was saved, 459.

Calanthe Veitchii, the varieties of, 524.

Caledonian Horticultural Society's
Show, 473 — prize-list, 476.

Calendar: Kitchen-garden, 47, 95,142,
193, 241, 287, 337, 384, 433, 480,
528, 577— Forcing department, 43,
92, 139, 191, 238, 285, 335, 382, 431,
478, 526, 575.

Cape Pondweed, 147.

Cattleya labiata at Botliwell Castle, 38.

Centradenia rosea, 181.

Centropogon lucianus, 207.

Champion Potatoes, 569.

Cherries and Plums, 505.

Chicory, 90.

Chinese Primula, the, 78.

Chorozemas, 198, 545.

580

THE GARDExNER.

[Dec.

Chrysautliemuin iiuliciim ])recocite, &c.,
401.

Chrysanthemums, among tlie, 37.

Chrysanthemums for the conservatory,
314— disbudding, 520, 568.

Clianthus, tlie (Parrot's-beak, or Glory-
Pea of Australia), 268.

Coelogyne cristata, 52, 278.

Colouring Graj)es, the art of, 411.

Competition, the Asparagus, 280.

Conservatory, Chrysanthemums for the,
314.

"Consider the Lilies," 276.

Controversy, the herbaceous plant,
173 — the Grape- Vine, 557.

Correas, 107.

Correspondents, notices to, 48, 96,
143, 194, 242, 289, 338, 386, 434,
482, 630, 578.

Cost of the two systems of flower-gar-
dening, 32.

Currants and Gooseberries, 546.

Daphne indica, 371.

Decorative greenhouse plants, notes
on : Lisianthus Russellianus and L.
princeps, 15 — Vallota purpurea, 69 —
Luculia gratissima and L. pinceana,
119 — Erythrina Crista -galli, 120 —
Euphorbia Jaquiniaiflora, 121 — the
Balsam, 166— the Acacia, 217— La-
pageria rosea and L. alba, 268 —
the Clianthus, 268 — Imantophyllum
miniatum, 325 — the Blandfordia, 326
— Daphne indica, 371 — the Pimelea,
319 — Leschenaultia, 373 — the Aph-
lexis, 395 — Phcenocoma prolifera,
395— Genetyllis tulipifera, 396— the
Boronia, 453 — the Polygala, 454 — tlie
Eriostemon, 504 — the Choroscema,
545 — Tetrathica verticillata, 545.

Deudrobium nobile, 270.

Disbudding Chrysanthemums, 520.

Discussion, the Grape- Vine, 517.

Dracaenas, 465.

Drumlanrig Gardeners' Mutual Im-
provement Association, 525.

Dundee Horticultural Association, 42,
90, 137, 184, 231, 279, 333, 380,
421, 525, 572.

Dunn, Mr, Dalkeith Gardens, com-
plimentary dinner to, 186.

East-Lothian Stocks, 420.

Electric light applied to horticulture,
292.

Eriostemons, 153, 504.

Erythrina Crista-galli, 120.

Eucharis amazonica, 80.

Eupatoriums, 148.

Euphorbia Jatjuiniajflora, 120.

Evergreen shrubs, effect of last winter's
frost on, 327.

Exhibitions, horticultural, 134, 186.

E.xperience in a flower-garden, 59.

Feetling Vines, &c., 339.

Feeding Vines and setting Muscats,
455.

Florist flowers and bedding plants, sea-
sonable notes on, 84, 564.

Flower-garden, the, 128, 254 — Ger-
aniums, 349 — Dahlias and Gladiolus,
350 — Violas, Pansies, and Sweet
Peas, 351 — herbaceous plants, 351
— flowers in formal beds, 414.

Flower-garden, part of a season's ex-
perience in, 59 — a review, with
suggestions, 501.

Flower - gardening : cost of the two
systems, 32 — the bedding - out or
massing system, 72.

Flowering plants for room decoration,
52.

Forcing department (Calendar), 43,
92, 139, 191, 238, 285, 335, 382, 431,
478, 526, 575.

Frost, the, 139— at Bothwell Castle,
186.

Fruit-culture: the Apple, 201, 243,
302, 351, 397— the Pear, 442— select
list of, 445 — Plums and Cherries, 505
— Peaches and Nectarines, 508 —
Apricots, 510 — Gooseberries and
Currants, 546.

Fruit-garden : the Grape-Vine, 12, 75,
116, 164.

Fruit-trees, remarks on, 387.

Garden, the Fruit : L the Grape-Vine,
12, 75, 116, 164.

Gardeners, botany for : IIL Stems, 29
— IV. Leaves, 30 — V. Leaf and flower
buds, 87 — VI. Inflorescence, &c., 129
—VII. the Ovule, &c., 225— VIII.
Fruit, 321 — IX. Seeds, 415 — X.
Seeds, 521.

Gardeners' Benevolent Institution,
278.

Genetyllis tulipifera, 396.

Gladiolus, autumn treatment of, 519.

Gooseberries and Currants, 546.

Gooseberry, cultivation of, in the north
of England, 314.

Grape-Vine, the, 13.

Grape-Vine discussion, the, 517, 557,
560, 561, 564.

Grapes, the art of colouring, 411.

Grapes, low temi)erature for Muscat,
483, 557, 560, 561, 564.

Greenhouse plants : I. the Azalea, 9 —
II. Correas, 107— III. Eriostemons,
152— IV. Chorozemas, 198— V. the
Pimelea, 319— VI. the Boronia, 341
— VII. Kalosanthes coccinea, 405
—VIII. the Acacia, 499.

i8Si.

INDEX.

581

Guillon Maiigilli, Zonal Pulargonium,

180.
Hsemantlms cinnabarinum and H.

Kalbreyeri, 448.
Hardy liorist's flowers, a plea for, 377.
Hardy flowers, choice new or rare, 24
— furnishing of borders of mixed,
101.
Hardy fruits, notes on, 85.
Hardy plants in and out of doors, 323.
Harrison's Early Marble Turnip, 570.
Herbaceous plant controversy, the, 173.
Herbaceous plants, a few showy, 419.
Hints for amateurs : January, 20 —
February, m — March, U2 — April,
IGO—iVay, 212— June, 259— July,
307 — August, S56—Sq)tembcr, 402 —
October, 456 — November, 495 — De-
cember, 536.
Hollyhock, the, 70.
Horizontally trained Peach-trees, 183, j

230, 278,
Horticultural Association, Dundee, 42,
90, 137, 184, 231, 279, 333, 380, 421, I
525, 572. 1

Imantophyllum miniatum, 325. !

Indian Crocus, 49.
Is the Rose red? 466.
Jottings from New Zealand, 226.
Kitchen-garden (Calendar), 47, 95, 142,
193, 241, 287, 337, 384, 433, 480,
528, 577.
Kitchen-garden notes, 459.
Kitchen-gardens, how to make the most
of wall-borders in, 3, 55, 104, 168,
204, 256, 298, 364— remarks on fruit-
trees, 387 — Peaches and Nectarines,
512 — Pears, 552 — Plums, 553 —
Cherries, 553 — Red Currants and
Gooseberries, 554.
Kalosanthes coccinea, 405, 523.
Lapageria alba, 268.
Large Vine at Speddock, Dumfries-
shire, 407.
Leschenaultia, 373.
" Lilies, consider the," 276.
Lilies, notes on, 145.
Lilium longiflorum, 441.
Lily of the Valley, forcing, 440.
Lisianthus prince})s, 15.
Lisianthus Russellianus, 15.
Low night-temperature for Vines, 461.
Low temperature for Muscat Grapes,

483.
Luculia gratissima, 119.
Luculia pinceana, 80, 119.
Lycaste Skinnerii, 487.
Magnum Bonum Potatoes, 569.
Manchester International Horticultural

Exhibition, 468.
Manure-water, 450.

Manuring and digging among Roses,

408.
]\lealy-bug, parafliin-oil a cure for, 88.
Mignonette-culture for autumn, winter,

and spring, 156.
Muscat Grapes, low temperature for,

483, 557, 560, 561, 564.
iMushroom-culture, 543.
Nectarines and Peaches, 508.
Nepenthes Rajah, 533.
New ])lant, a, 148.
New Zealand, jottings from. 226.
Notes from the papers, 16, 61, 109,

219, 263, 366, 554.

Notes on the Vine, 273.

251,

334,

14;

Notes, some, 145, 170, 195, 223,

294, 417, 435, 489, 531.
Notices of books, 135, 237, 285,

574.
Notices to correspondents, 48, 96,
194, 242, 289, 338, 386, 434, 482,
530, 578.
Old garden, the renovation of an, 26.
Open air, Vine-growing in the, 362.
Orchard-houses, 379.
Orchid-culture, 1.
Orchids, hints on, 148.
Orchids, potting material for, 566.
Orchids in bloom at Brentham Park,
Stirling, 185 — at Craigleith Nur-
series, Edinburgh, 231 — at New-
battle Gardens, 280— at the Kilns,
Falkirk, 573— at Fernfield, Bridge
of Allan, 574.
Orchids, Indian Crocus, 49— Ccelogvne

cristata, 52.
Papers, notes from the, 16, 61, 109,

219, 263, 366, 554.
Paraffin-oil a cure for mealy-l)Ug, 88.
Peach-trees, horizontally trained, 1S3,

230, 278.
Peaches and Nectarines, 508
Pear, the, 442— select list, 445.
Peas, sowing early, 56.
Peas and their culture, 22.
Phoenocoma prolifera, 395.
Pimelea, the, 319, 372.
Pinching — when and how to do it, 374.
Pit, a }iiant, 172.
Plant-pit, a, 172.

Plants, greenhouse : L the Azalea, 9
— IL Correas, 107— HL Erioste-
mons, 152— IV. Chorozemas, 198—
V. the Pimelea, 319— VI. the Bor-
onia, 341— VII. Kalosanthes coc-
cinea, 40.5 — VIII. the Acacia, 499.
Pleiones, 124.
, Plumbago rosea coccinea, 376.
i Plums and Cherries, 505.
I Polygala, the, 454.
, Pot-Roses and the Rose-houae, 343.

582

THE GARDENEK

Dec. i8Si.

Potatoes, the Ixvst, 463.

I'otatoes, Champion and ^higiuuii Ijo-

mim, 560.
l''ottiiig material for Orcliids, 566.
Primulaj the Chinese, 78.
Private gardens, subtropical bedding

in, 463.
Pruning Roses, 64.
Pteris umbrosa, 131.
Painfall in 1880, 91.
Rare hardy flowers, choice new, 24.
Reciprocal action, 229.
Room decoration, flowering plants for,

52.
Root-cuttings, 147.

Root inspection, the importance of, 570.
Rose— Is it red ? 466.
Rose-house, the, 97 — and pot-Roses,

343.
Rose notes for amateurs, 126.
Roses on their own roots, 6 — pruning,

64 — under glass, 301— to be seen to

best advantage, 371 — manuring and

digging among, 408.
Roses, Hybrid Perpetual, 64— Tea, 65—

in pots and under glass, 65 — on the

back walls of vineries, 551.
Royal Horticultural Society : February

meeting, 132 — March, 187 — April,

233— May, 281— June, 330— August,

428.
Salads, winter, 346.
Scientific balderdash, 220.
Seasonable notes on florist flowers and

bedding-plants, 84.
Showy herbaceous plants, 419.
Shrubberies, 312.
Solenum capsicastrum, 130.
Speddock large Vine, Dumfriesshire,

407.
Standard plants, indoors and out, 417.
Stirling Horticultural Society's Show,

423.
Stocks, East-Lothian, 420.
Stoking, 81.

Storrs Hall Gardens, 39.
Stove Vincas, 390.

Strawberries, 316.

Subtropical bedding in private gar-
dens, 463.

Suggestions for young gardeners, 276.

Suggestions regarding the flower-gar-
den, 501.

Sydney (New South Wales) Botanical
Ganlens, 360.

Tabernoemontana coronaria flore-pleno,
309.

Tea Roses on the back walls of vineries.
551.

Tetrathica verticillata, 545.

Tomatoes, their profitable cultivation,
485.

Tropreolum, Worsley Hall variety, 281.

Turnip, a good, 570.

Vallota purpurea, 69, 187.

Vanda spikes at Chatsworth, 187.

Varieties of Calanthe Veitchii, 524.

Vegetables, winter, 392.

Vincas, stove, 390.

Vine, notes on the, 273.

Vine-growing in tlie open air, 362.

Vines, &c., feeding, 339 — and setting
]\Iuscats, 455 — low night-tempera-
ture for, 461, 483, 557, 560, 561, 564.

Wall-borders in kitchen-gardens, how
to make the most of, 3, 55, 104. 168,
204, 256, 298, 364— remarks on fruit-
trees, 387 — Peaches and Kectarines,
512 — Pears, 552 — Plums, 553 —
Cherries, 553 — Red Currants and
Gooseberries, 554.

AVeather, the, 92.

Weather in the south-west of Scotland,
430.

Winter, the late, 329.

Winter .salads, 346— vegetables, 392.

AVinter flowers, 539.

Winter-flowering plants, notes on, 247,
448.

AVinter's frost, efl'ect of, on evergreen
shrubs, 327.

Young gardeners, suggestions for, 276.

Zonal Pelargonium, Guillon Mangilli,
180.

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