UMASS/AMHERST 312066 0333 3016 4 LIBRARY MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE No._Io.8fl4-__ DATE..4r_l_SA^. SOURCE. .Iiu.^^.-Jf'.a]a.d V .10 1^76 BUPrLBMBST 10 " IHE OiUDBS," DBT. IP, 13?f>. .TvVlNIKS -VJKITCH. SMPiiMEifi TO "ina QABDBir," BEO. so, 1876.] ILLUSTRATED WEEKLY JOURNAL HOKTICULTURE IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. PODITDBD BT W. Solinson, F.L.8., Author of " Alpine Flowers," etc. " You see, sweet maid, we marry A gentle scion to the wildest stock ; And make conceive a bark of baser kind By bud of nobler race : This is an art Which does mend nature ; change it rather ; but The art itself is nature." — Shakespeare. VOL. X. LONDON: OFFICE: 37, SOUTHAMPTON STKEET, COVENT GAEDEN, W. 0. oiiEisa?ita:As, isve. c •per 10 SrPPtEi:lKI TO **THI GIKDEN," DECrilBEB 30, 1876. TO THE MEMORY OF JAMES YEITCH OF CHELSri AltD ESriEB, THE TENTH VOLUME OF "THE GARDEN' IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. W. R. IISTDEX TO VOLUME X. A. Abelia grandiflora, 255; the Fragrant, 75 ; triflora, 75 Abelias, the, 68 Abutilon SeUovianum Tariegatum, 633 ; in the open air, 450 Abraxas grosaulariata, 8 Acacia lophantha, 672 ; Eiceana, 600 Acsena pulchella for rockvrork and vases, 477 Acconnt book, garden, 695 Acer pscudo-platanus purpureas, 42-t Achillea segyptiaca, 398 ; Bnpatoreum, 129 Achimenes, 429, 521 ; culture of, 165 Aciphylla squarrosa, 496 Aconitum japonicum, 490 Acton, PoLnsettias at, 578 Adiantum, a new golden, 419 ; Capillus Veneris, 420 ; digitatum, 400 ^chineas, 219 ^sculus Hippocastanum var. rubi- cunda, 37 ^thionemas, 75 Africa, North, Bamboos in, 498 African Lily, the, 57 ; for indoor decora- tion, 304 ; out-of-doors, 351 Agapanthus umbellatus, 67, 246 ; flore plena, 490 ; for indoor decoration, 304 ; out-of-doors in winter, 328, 361 Agave Botteri, 203 ; f oetida, 438 Agaves at Alexandra Palace, 204 Ageratnm, Countess of Stair, 357, 479; Snowflake, 213 ; Tom Thumb Snow- flake, 213 Alder, the yellow, 424 Alexandra Palace, Agaves at, 204 : Ja- panese garden at, 3 ; Potato Exhibi- tion at, 348 ; Rose Show at, 67 Allamanda, 501 ; Henderson!, 131 Allamandas, bush-trained, 131 Alnus glutinosa aurea, 424 AJoysia citriodora, 683 Alpine flowers, grouping and massing, 373 Alpine plants, collecting, 228 Altemantheras, 487 Althaea Frolowiana, 161 ; fmtex, 232 Alyssums, culture of, 189 Amarylhs, 423 ; culture of, 630; at Maida Tale, 618 America, cultivated vegetables in, 29; gigantic growth of Castor-oil Plant in, 618 ; the English Lime In, 333 America, Orchid culture in, 601 American blight, how to destroy, 195 American fruits and garden produce, 598 American nursery, an, 118 Amorphophallus Bivieri, 167 Amsterdam, International Exhibition at, 557 Anastatica hierochontica, 313 Andropogon formosus, 605 Anemone fulgens, 653, 595; japonica, 328 ; japonica alba, 283 ; ditto for the conservatory, 328 Anerley Nursery, indoor plants at the, 383 Anglesea, mi\d weather in, 598 Anglesea, Mushrooms in, 616 Annuals, autumn-sown, 7, 231, 232, 351 ; for autumn-sowing, 181 ; for carpet- ing, 29; two useful, 129 Anomatheca cruenta, new, 104, 679 Anopterus grandulosa, 558 Anthurium Bakeri, 593 ; crystallinum, 366 Anthuriams, 219 Antirrhinum majus, iSil Ants, cyanide of potassium a poison for, 394; how to destroy, 198 Aphelandra cristata, 220; Roezli, 220, 538 Aphelandras, cuUuro of, 507 Aphelexis macrantha, 183 Aphides, how to destroy, 197 Aplopappus cihatus, 419 Aponogeton distachyon, 618; hardiness of, 316; in and out of water, 333 Apple, cooking, the Irish Peach as a, 221; Lemon Pippin, 493 ; supply, 478 ; Cor- nish Gillyflower, 446 ; in Berks, 516 ; in cottage gardens, 214; the Latigham Crab, 559, 695 ; Lord SutBeld, 602 ; Ribston Pippin, on walls, 391 Apples, 324, 428 ; American, 653 ; bury- ing, 490 ; classification of, 62 ; culture of, 290 ; free-bearing, 418 ; French, 668; graft hybrids of, 418 ; in Covent Garden, 438 ; on the Paradise stock, 458 ; origin of, 8 ; packing, 594 ; select- ing, 279; without blossoms, 62 ; in New England, 595 ; for ornament, 602 Apple butter, 603 Apple maggot, 218 Apple tree taken possession of by a Rose, 24 Apple tree mussel scale, 250 Apple worm or Oodlin grub, 368 Appleworfes, ornamental, 398 Apricot, the, 236 Apricots, culture of, 56 Aquarium Rose Show, 47 Aquilegia chrysantha, 7 ; ccemlea, 64 Whitmanni, 64 Arabis, culture of, 189 Aralia Veitchi var. gracillima, 378 Aralias, stocks for, 503 Arboretum, an extensive, 199 ; an un- fortunate, 686 Arbor- vitsB, the Yellow Western, 424 Arbutus rubra, 438 ; Unedo, 438 Area gardening at Eastbourne, 436 Arrow-head, double-flowered, 367, 380 Art at the Academy, 37 Artichokes, Globe, 423, 609, 518 ; Jeru- salem, 466, 486, 636, 674; cooking, 411 Artichoke soup, 411 Arum crinitum, 74 Arum Lily, a double-spathed, 65, 184 ; treble-spathed, 72 Arundinaria falcata seeding, 118 Ash, flowering, 605 Asimina triloba, 9 Asparagus, 404 ; as a table plant, 120 ; beetle, 250; beds, 624; Oonover's Colossal, 92 ; culture, 43, 573 ; at Col Chester, 477 ; forcing, 673 ; French mode of growing, S16 ; fungus, Asphalte walks, 198; home-made, 366 Aspidium aculeatum, 103 Aster grandiflorus, 518 ; Quilled Unique, 276 Asteriscus maritima, 234 Atlas Mountains, the Cedars on the, 83 Atragenes, the, 430 August, floral decorations for, 180 Auricula Society, National, 538 Austria, school gardens in, 203 Autumn flowers in small gardens, 326 Autumnal eff'ect, a beautiful, 393 Avenue, a noble Japanese, 30 B, Babianas, 589 Bagshot Sands, Early Rose Potato on the, 255 Balsams, 220 ; dwarf, out-of-doors, 183 ; improved double, 125 Bamboo, the Golden, in flower in Devon, 130 ; in Europe, 4c., 493 ; leafless, 425 Bamboo stakes, 410 Bambusa aurea in flower in Devon, 120; edulis, 426 ; Ragamowski, as a hardy border plant, 460 Bananas at Syon House, 436 Bamet Nurseries, 373 Baskets, hanging, 185 ; Moss, Hyacinths in, 5S3 Bath, Pomegranate trees in, 438 Bats, remedy for, wanted, 24 Battersea Park, 470 ; flower gardening Bean, the Sacred, 293 Beans and their culture, 141 ; broad 160,541; dwarf, 191; dwarf French, 541 ; French, 318 ; and their culture, 143 ; early dwarf, 119 ; Predome, 318 ; preserving, 145 ; Victoria dwarf, 299 ; kidney, 541 ; Haricot Nain Blanc Quarantain, 204 ; Minier*s First Early, 204; Rachel, 204; Premier runner, 641 ; scarlet runner, 641 ; runner, Dutch Caseknife, 252 Bearing reins off" mowing-machine horses, 20 Beds, planting, 354 Bees, food for, 274 Beet, sugar and its varieties, 44 Beetroot, 162, 604 ; cultivation of, 406 Begonia Davisi, 148, 378 ; excellent, 276 ; Miranda, 304 ; Otto Forster, 204 ; majestica, 276; octopetala in a cold f rame,425 ; Vesuvius, 400 ; Viscountess Doneraile, 91 Begonias, culture of, 67, 219, 621 ; new hybrid tuberous-rooted of 1876, 373 : out-of-doors at Heatherbank, 306 seedling, for conservatory decoration 479 ; the tuberous-rooted, 464, 510 ditto as cut flowers, 416 Belgium, railway cordon fences in, 341 Bellis perennis prolifera, 76 ; rotundi- folia coerulescens, 618 Bellwort, large-flowered, 207 Benthamia fragifera at Fota Island, 9 Betula alba purpurea, 424 Billbergia Moreliana, 498 Billbergias, 220. 429 Bindweed, prickly, 7 Birch, new purple-leaved, 364, 43 1, 532 Birds and seeds, 269 Birds, how to keep off small fruits, 8 Birkenhead Park, 550 Birmingham, a new park at, 125 Blackberry, Australian, 658 Bocconia cordata, 233 Bog-bean, the, as a border plant, 351 Boiler fires, stoking, 252 Boiler incrustations, 270 Bolbophyllum lemiscum, 591 Bomarea Carderi, 538 Bonapartea juncea in bloom, 698 Bongardia Rauwolfl, 203 Boots, garden, waterproofing, 484 Borders, the early, 359; herbaceous, 547; planting ditto, 351 ; shrubbery, 647 Borecole, 561 Boronia elatior, 337 Boronias, select, 313 Borrowash, Canterbury Bells at, 103 Botanic Garden, Mauritius, 396 Botanical terms, superfluous, 37 Botryanthus pallens, 518 B )ttles of water, Muscat Grapes in, 481 Bouquets, 47 ; spring flowers for, 181 Bournemouth, the Gardens at, 478 Bouvardias, culture of, 508 ; in Covent Garden, 350 Box edging, 189 Boxwood and its uses, 610 Box, the Golden Japanese, 421 Box for conveying plants, 536 ; for plant collectors, 637 Bramble, the Double Rose-coloured, in the flower garden, 292 Brazilian flowers, 351 Broccoli, clubbing in, 191 ; culture of, 692 ; tor winter, 43 ; white, in France, 505 Broom, the Weeping, grafted on the Laburnum, 431 Browallia elata, 668 Brussels Sprouts, 49, 661 Buddleia intermedia, 143 Buffalo-berry, the, 292 Bulbs, culture of, 386 : greenhouse, planting, 533; spring-flowering, in unused spaces, 460; stove, planting 533 Bullfinches, driving away, 201 Bur-reed, the, for tying, 195 Butcher's Broom, the CUmbing, 419 BuxuB japonica aurea, 424 c. Cabbage, the, 661 ; culture of, 164, 290 ; grub, 270; red or purple, 661 ; Savoy, 561 ; weight of a, 603 Cabbages, clubbing in, 194 ; early, 10 ; sowing, 84 ; winter, 44 Cairo," old Sycamore at, 636 Caladiams, culture of, 220, 429, 521 Calamus Imperatrice Marie, 671 Calanthe Veitchi at Drumlanrig, 678 Calceolaria cuttings, 409; salicifoUa, 262 Calceolarias, culture of, 217, 667; bed- ding, 379 ; propagation of, 413 ; her- THE GARDEN INDEX. [SUPFLIUEKT 10 TBK GUDEX, DKC. 30, 1876. baceous, 135. 136, 267 ; late propaRa- tion of, 41t California, fruits of, 240 ; Pears from, 657 Calla ccthiopicn, 318 ; palustris, -433 ; the double-spathed, 433 Callicarpa purpurea, 119 Calliphraria HartweRiana, 49J Callipsjche nurantiaca, 478 Ca\luna vulgaris, 199 Calochortus, j-ellow, 3 Camellia at Killarney, 263 ; garden in Dorsetshire. 280 Camellia large Italian, 182 Camellias, culture of, 313 ; hardiness of, 372; in tho open air in Kent, 426; out-of-door in Devonshire, 301 ; train- ing, 031 Campanula p.yramidalis, 176 Campanulas for pot culture, 37 Candytuft, narroiv-leaved, 460; San- der,' new dwarf white, 283 ; select, 283; new hybrid, 679 Canna, Premier de Nice, 208 Cannas, culture of, 288; the, 406; flowering, 101 Canterbury Bells, 24; at Borrowash, 103 Caoutchouc trees in India, 361 Cape Pondweed in and out of water. 333 Capsicum, Prinosss of Wales, 4 ti Capsicums in the sun, 51 ij green, to pickle, 119 ; red, to pickle, 119 ; sweet, 473 Cardinal flower, the, 232 Cardoon, culture of the, 299 Carnation, Duke of Wellington, 361; (Perpetual), Scarlet Defiance, 476- the wild, fromFalaise, 126 Carnations in pots, 409, 487, 610; raisin" new varieties of, 33; Tree or Perpetuar, 81, 429 Carpet bedding. 231, 252; plants, green, Carpocampa pomonella, 368 Carrots, culture of, 466; early French, 66 Carrot maggot, cures for the, 605 Cassia corymbosa, culture of, 104 Castle Coch, the Vineyard at, 283 Castor-oil Plant, gigantic growth of, in America, 618; out-of-doors, 426 Casuarina sumatrina, 476 Catalpa, the, as a timber tree, 293 Caterpillars, surface, 436 ; tree, 463 Cattli-ya Carrierei, 378 ; marginata, 577 Oaulillower, culture of the, 641 ; Early Snowball, 412 ; Eclipse, 416 Ceanothus collmus, 389; the Hill-side, 389 ; as an autumn-bloomer, 265 Cedar, the Atlas, in Scotland, 481 Cedais on the Atlas, 83; transplanting, Codrola sinensis, 292, 376 Ccdrus atlanticain Scotland, 431; Doo- dara, cono-beaiing, 352, 492 Celery, culture of, 162, 101, 189, 692 Celery blight, 194 Celery fly, 271 Celosias, culture of, 81, 311 ; for winter- blooming, 231 Cements, various, 271 Cemeteries, garden, 186 Contaurcas, late propagation of, 414 Centennial Exhibition, trees at, 118 Centradonias and their culture, 284 Centropogon Lucyanus, 621 Cerasus, species of, 486 ; Mahaleb varic- gata, 364 ; pendula rosea, 3BU Cestrum anrantiacum, 635 Chamrebatia foliolosa, 4S0 Chamaidorea Ernesti-Augusti, 658 ; gco- nomoeformis, 470 ; the Necklace-flow- ered, 470 Chamu!peuco Casabonas, 176; diaoantha 176 ing, 389; the May Duke, on north walls, 340 ; the Winter, 232 ; trees, the black knot of, 36 Cherries, 324 ; double-flowered, 486 ; late dessert, 280 ; on north aspects, 367 ; Plum as a fence. 664 ChionanthuB virginica, 606, 536 Christmas, the white Tree Datura at, 59S Chrysanthemum Burridgeannm, 213 Chrysanthemums, culture of, 20, 267, 403. -137, 669, 609 ; at Ewell, 556 ; early- flowering, 355 ; in and near London, 495 ; in pots, 290, 400 ; with Standard, Pelargoniums, intermixing, 479 Church gardens, 582 Cinchona plantations, 590 Cinerarias, culture of, 20, 246, 247, 409, 668 Cinquefoils, the Shrubby, 199 Clapton. Cattleya marginata at, 677 ; Phalienopsis at, 618, 578 Clarkia elegans, double white, 679 Clay soil for Pears, 602 Clematis, a wet climate for, 234; Flam- mula, 260 Clematises free and pruned, 23 ; new, 60 Clerodendron Balfouri, 601 ; speci osum 658 ; splendens, 638 Climbers for basket handles, 519, 566, 676 ; in Hokkaido Woods, 118 ; planted out, 600 Climate, coast, influence of, on Alpine vegetation in Norway, 168 ; influence of forests on, 496 Clubbing in Broccoli, 194 ; in Cabbages, 194 ; in Brassica, 270 ; red lead a cure for, 395 Cobjea scandens, 500 Cobnuts, Improved, Mr. Webb's, 253 Cochliostema Jacobiana, 63 Cockchafers, 272 Cockroaches, 272 Cocoa-nut husk flower-pots, 690 Cocos australis, 11 Coffee plant, Liberian, 658; tree, Ken- tucky, variegated-leaved, 276 Colchester, Asparagus culture at, 477 Colchicum Parkinsoni, 519, 640 ColeuB, Crown Jewel, 131 ; culture of, 220, 437 ; varieties of, 80O College Gardens, Dublin, 29 Colours of flowers, 55 Columbine, the Golden, 7 Compass Plant in autumn, 419 Composites, Golden-flowered, 419 Concrete walks, 273 Conifers at Moll's Park, 424 ; choice, in plantations, 116; measurements of, 492 ; pendulous, 585 Conservatories, 65, 202 ; town, small, 675. 695 ; shelves of, edging lor, 476 Contrast, a good, 182 Convolvulus Cneorum, 677; minor, Daniels' variety of, 97 ; violet-crim- son, 670 Cooke's " Leaves from my Sketch Book," 675 Coprosma Baureana in vases, 181 Coral -plant, the herbaceous, 51, 380 Cordylino (Dracffina) australis in De- vonshire, 74; Banksi, 0; indivisa. 436 Coreopsis aristosa, 439 ; maritima, 100 Cork Oak in a now home, 133 Cornus Mas elegantissima, 182; Mas variegata. 361 Corsica, vegetation in. 615 Corydalis cava var. nlbillora, 366 Covent Garden Market, imported vogo- tables in, ui)3 ; imported fruits in, 003 Crocus nudillorus, 355 ; speciosus, 426 ; byzantinus. 001 Crocuses, autumn, 355 ; cropping, for inter. 43 Crops, rotation of. 359. 411 Cucumber, the, and its cnlture. 3H; Green Prolific, 502 ; Rollisson's Tele- graph. 318; Sutton's Duke of Con- naught. 273; Sutton's King of the Eidge, 299 ; culture of, 56, 4S8 Cucumbers, ridge, 189; snail-infested, 626 ; tender, 119 Cuphea Hillfleldiana, 262 CupresBus Lawsoniana elegantissima. 389 ; Lawsoniana filifera, 421 Curcumas and their culture, 95 Curious if true, 616 Currants, 461 ; as espaliers, 23B, 330 ; grafting, 62 ; in bush form, 330 ; La Versaillaiso, 8; Red. for jam, 119; standard, 660; and Gooseberry com- pote, 119; jelly. Red, 119 Currant Moth, the, 8 Custard Apple, North American, 9 Cuttings, striking, 163; in sand and water, 4, 97 Cyananthus lobatus, 176 Cyanide of potassium a poison for ants, 394 Cyclamen, Large, Williams', 639; cy- prium, 190; culture of, 218, 570; for the market, 618 ; hardy, 190 ; Mr. James's, 638 ; Hock, 100 ; at Ealing Dean Nursery, 678 Cyclobothra alba, 34 Cyfarthfa Castle, 680 Cymbidium Mastersi, 668 Cyperus, a graceful, 599 Cypress, the Slender-twigged Lawson, 421 Cypripedium insigne, 618 Oytisus Laburnum fragrans, 424 Chamiorops excelsa in Yorkshire, 458 humilis, hardy in Scotland, 492 ; the I Crotons, new races of, 138 genus, 610 I Cryptomeria lyoopodioides, 380 Chcnopodium Bonus Henricus, 612 I Crystal Palace Fruit Show, 323 ; gar- Cherry, tho, 238 ; Uose-flowored Weep- I dons, plan of the, BOO ; Rose Show, 46 Dacrydium Franklini, 606, 622, 637 Daddy Long-legs, the, 453 Dahlia, a new, 426 ; Burgundy, 372 ; Canary, 204 ; Chris. Ridley, 372 ; Drake Lewis, 204 ; Earl of Beacons- field, 276 ; Figaro, 276 ; John Downie, 276 ; J. W. Lord, 276 ; Maximilian, 76 ; Minnie Bond, 276 ; Turner's Ar- tist, 426 ; white bedding. Marguerite Brnant, 276 Dahlias, culture of, 136, 268, 324 ; dwarf bedding, 232 ; in pots, 168 ; in Covent Garden, 456 ; late in autumn, 419 Daisy, Hen-and-Chickens, 76 ; the Sin- gle Blue, 618 J tricoloured Ox-eye, 213 Daisies, autumnal Ox-eyed, 419 ; cul- ture of, 189 ; removing from lawns. 46, 64, 579 ; seedling, for autumn blooming, 480 Darlingtonia californica at Glasnevin, 126 Darwin, Mr., on the Strawberry, 116 ; on cross-fertilization of plants, 696 Dasylirion glaucum, 208 Datura metaloides, 371 ; the white, at Christmas, 598 Decorations, dinner-table. 617 Decoration, indoor, Agapantbus umbel- latus for, 301 ; flowers for, 681 1 plants for, 58, 681 ; seedling Petunias for, 383 ; tho Moccasin flower for, 29 Delphinium nudicaule, 20 Delphiniums, pome good, 213 Dendrobium bigibbum euperbum, 204, 403; crassinode, 658; fimbriatum, a large-flowered. 60S | Deodar cones. 636 Deodars from English-saved seed, 416 Des Batignollos. tho Square, 511 DcsTontainea spinosa, 26; in South Wales, 306 Dcbmodium penduliflorum, 216 Devonshire, Bambusa aurea in flower in, 120; Cordyline (Dracojna) austra- lis in, 74 ; Eucalyptus montana in, 18'.' ; outdoor Camellias in, 301 ; Yucca angustifolia in flower in, 100 Dianthus alpinus. 400 ; Heddewigi. 460 Diary for Seven Years. My. 121. 163, 188, 427, 447, 467, 437. 607, 620, 619. 567, 687, 608 Dinner-table decorations. 617 Diospyros Kaki, 458 ; analysis of fruit of, 695; Lotus, 458 Dipladenias, culture of, 501 ; autumn- flowering, 383 Disa grandiflora, 429 ; at home, 211 ; Hcrscheli, 429 ; longicornu, 429 Dodecatheon integrifolium, 360, 376; Jafl"reyanum, 300 ; Meadia, 360 Dorsetfihire, Camellia garden in, 230 Dracsena fruticoaa, 378 ; Gladston i, 372; Goldieana, 499 DracEenas, propagating, 672 ; for green- house decoration, 509 ; Wille's, 558 Dragon-tree, Zebra-striped, 499 Drill rake, a useful, 66 Diimys Winteri, 398 Drought, effect of, on the distribution of plants, 269 ; on vegetableB. 294 Drumlanrig, Calflnthe Veitchi at, 678 ; Luculia gratissima at, 577 Dumas', M., remedy for the Phylloxera. 401 Dundee International Exhibition, the, 252, 300 Duvallia polita, 203 Dynamite and trees, 9, 40 Earwigs, 271 Eastbourne, area gardening a*, 436 Eastern Counties, Plum crop in the, 215 Echeveria eecunda in win'er, 678 Echiums, the shrubby, 638, 616 Edging plant, Euonymus microphyllus as an, 207 Edgings, cable, 262; dwarf shrnlis for, 610 ; flower-bed, 6 ; kitchen garden, 29, 65, 69, 90, 98 Edinburgh Botanic Garden, Epignsa re- pens in, 456 ; May Flower in, 466 Edrianthus dalmaticus, 51 Education, rural, in France, 347 Eglinton Castle, Violas at, 283 Elder, the, in Scotland, 661 ; Golden- leaved, 24, 364 Embankment, Planes on the. 637 Embothriumcoccineum, 566; in Devon- shire. 3 Endive, culture of, 161, 189, 600; and varieties, 434; cooked, 616, 538 England, size of Wellingtonias is, 261 ; tropical fruits in, 666; Vineyards in, 304, 360 Bpacrises, 668 Epidendrums, select, 635 Epigaea repens in tho Edinburgh Bo- tanic Garden, 456 Bpitobium obcordatum, 64 Epiphyllums aa rock-plants, 603 ; cul- ture of, 607 Ericas and water, 672 Erodium, a Pelargonium-flowered, 182 ; Caraway-leaved, tho, 184 ; camifo- lium, 184 Ervum Lens, in Revalenta Arabica, 605 Eryngium pandanifolium, 356; platy- phyllum, 355 Erysinum arkansanum, 33 Krythiwa Muhlonbergi, 328 Erythrina herbacea, 64, 380; grandi- flora, 366 Esohscholtzia, new varieties of, 184 Espaliers, Ourranta as, 236 ; Gooso- borrics as, 235 Eucalyptus, cultivation of, 36 ; cngeni- oides, 366 ; globulus, 300, 327 ; in Isle of Wight, 71 ; montana, in Devon, 182 Eucharis amazonica, 165, 428, 518, 637, 672 Eucryphia pinnatifolia, 182 Eulalia, zebra-striped, 662 Kulophia macrostachya, 203 Euonymus microphyllus as plant, 207 edging 217, 246, 256, 289, 313, 337, 361, 386, -108, ' Enpatoriums, 5'.3 THE GARDEN INDEX. IX Euphorbia jacquiniEeflora, 165 428 ; hedge of, 698 Euphorbias, culture of, 261 Europe, Bamboos in, 493 Evening Primrose, the tufted, 301 Everlasting Pea, Drummond's, 234 ; Parkins' deep rose, 103 Exhibition, Philadelphia, 4 F. Falaise, the wild Carnation from, 126 Feather Hyacinth, the Great, 7 Pence, the Cherry Plum as a. 654 rem, a room, Todea superba as, 183 ; Brake, shoots of the, edible, 45 ; Blk's-horn,anew, 383; true Maiden- hair, 420 Ferns, culture of, 246, 608; and Fox- gloves, 129 ; greenhouse, 106, 179 ; native, in the wild garden, 177 ; pre- serving green, 674; aoil for, 565; stove, 105 ; tree, newly-imported, 516 ; climbing, trafSo in, 603 Fernery and wild garden. 129 ; bardy, 105, 489 ; wall, a, at Parson's Green, Edinburgh, 38 Fertilization, are insects a material aid in ? 493, 616, 668 Fertilizer, Jeannel's, 668 Fever Gum tree in Italy, 327 Ficus barbata, 673 ; elastica, grafting, 330 ; minima, 672 ; repens, 601 FiEeshire, sea-shore plants in, 100 Figs, culture of, 3 'A, 523 ; Black Bor- deaux, 36 ; forcing, 367; on opan walls, 235 Fir, a large Scotch, 563 ; Spruce, varia- bility of the, 143 ; the Golden Scotch, Fire-bush, the, 668 ; in Devonshire, 3 Flame-flowers in November, 458 Flax, Crimson, 129; New Zealand,- hardy, 519, 698 Floral decorations, 326 ; for July, 68 ; August, 181; September, 278; Octo- ber, 400 ; November, 621 : December, 570 " Flore des Serres," 638 Flowerbeds at Eollisson's Nursery, 103 ; edgings for, 4 ; Lychnis Lagascje for, 3 ; mulching, 97; watering, 97 Flower dyes, 273 Flower garden, 26S, 316, 337, 443, 418, 488, 489, 648; and pleasure ground, 83 104 ; the double rose-coloured Bramble for, 292 ; winter succulent plants in, 420 Flower gardening at Heckfleld, 327; hardy, 282 ; in Battersea Park, 258 ; in Hyde Park, 206; in Victoria Park, 231 Flower gums, various, 201 Flower mission, the Bible, 120 Flower pots. Cocoa-nut husk, 690 Flower show, Preston, 204 Flower shows, 3D ; children's, 68, 208 ; village, Mr. Gladstone on, 227 Flower vases, winter, young Spruces for, 588 Flower worshippers, 140 Flowers, annual, for carpeting, 29; artificial, show of, 678 ; autumn, 379 ; in small gardens, 328 ; colours of, 65 ; out, 300, 668 ; Orchids, 206 ; ear- liest spring, 556 ; early spring, 676 ; for children, 3 ; for decoration, 681 ; for hospitals, 68; for spring bou- quets, 181 ; hardy, in our public gar- dens, 3 ; of the week, 4, 30, 60, 72, 98, 126, 168, 182, 208, 233, 256, 280, 304, 328, 352, 378, 402, 420, 413, 459 ; partial shade for, 103 ; packing, 60 ; preserv- ing, 369; white bouquet, 617; wild Swedish, 69; winter, out-of-doors, 537; Tropjeolums f or, 95 Forcing, Gladioli, 180 ; plants suitable for, 210; Strawberry runners for, 203; houses, 438, 638; Honeysuckles for. 699 Forests, influence of, on climate, 496 ; tropical, in England. 666 Forest trees and underwood, 199 ; in- sects injurious to, 498 ; pruning, 253 Forget-me-not, the, 97; the Azorean,131 Fourcroya gigantea in flower, 438 Foxgloves, 32 ; and Ferns, 129; in Ken- sington Gardens, 29 France, culture of White Broccoli in, 605 ; destruction of Vineyards in, 347 ; rural education in, 347; Phylloxera in, 337 ; the Vine in, 536 Fremontia caiifornica, 126 Friends and foes, our, S39 Fringe tree, the, 636 Fritillaria recurva, 566, 677 Fritillary, the Scarlet, 665, 577 Frogmore, the Royal Gardens at, 307 Frosts, early, 252 Fruit, bottles, sealing, 414 ; crops, the, 168 ; American, 201 ; Irish, 200 ; Scottish, 200 ; Welsh, 201 ; Over- crowding, 560; culture, glasshouses V. walls for, 34 ; department, indoor, 449 ; diet, a, 61 ; farming. 35 ; grow- ing, for profit, 332 ; culture of, 204, 276, 300, 476, 566; a new orchard- house for, 458 ; and vegetables, 148 ; collections of, 323 ; for the Philadel- phia International Exhibition, 151 ; a neglected, 63 ; indoor, 22, 43, 521 ; Messrs. Veitch & Sons' prizes for, 91 ; miscellaneous, 93, 372 ; wasted, 51 Fmits at the Philadelphia Exhibition, 398; bnsh, 330; pruning, 650; for small gardens, list of, 332; hardy, 43, 88, 190, 316, 410, 469, 508, 518, 589 ; a neglected, 62 ; orchards best for, 461 ; impressions of, 674; in different counties, 516 ; keeping, 659 ; Here- fordshire, 438; packing, 311; small, in tree form. 236 ; California. 240 ; American, 598 ; imported, in Covent Garden, 603 Fruit tree protectors, 310 Fruit trees for gable walls, 111; for north walls. 431 ; more water for, 61 - on railway embankments, 376 ; pinch ing V. pruning, 36 ; planting, 521 protecting the blossoms of, 332 ; pru nlng, 331, 649 ; root-prunin" """ washes for, 451 Fuchsia, LUac-flowered, 11 ; Dominiana in the open air, 355 ; Riccartoni, 129 ; Riccartoni,alarge,327; syringffiflora. 11 Fuchsias, culture of, 81, 104, 246, 247, 290, 689; in sea-side gardens, 304; seedling, raising, 327 Fumigation, 271 Fungi, edible, 336 ; poisonous, 366 ; to preserve, 276; foray at Shobdon Court, 396 Funkia Sieboldiana var. Fortunei, 386 Funkias in the wild garden, 181 G. Gable-walls, fruit trees for. 111 Gamolepis euryopoides, 203 Gardenias, 219, 630, 699 Garden, cemeteries, 186 ; clogs, 411 ; parties, 117 ; receipts, 195, 243, 269, 294, 320, 346, 369, 392, 413, 433, 452, 473,494; glossary of do.,612; vegetables in June, 76 ; Mr. Webb's, 253 ; kitchen, 21, 22, 56; edgings in the, 29; the brook-side, 623; wild and Fernery, 129 ; Funkias in the, 184 ; native Ferns in the, 177; native plants in the, 177 Gardens, church, 682; graveyard, 483; great destruction in, 98 ; midland, drought in, 208 ; public, hardy flowers in. 3; school, in Austria, 313; small, autumn flowers in. 326 ; list of fruits for, 332 ; sub-tropical, Bourbon Pan Palm in, 361 ; at Bournemonth, 478 ; winter, 253 ; window, 572 ; Grand Trianon, 007 Gardener, Shakespeare as a, 653 Gardeners, amateur landscape,' hints for, 277 Gardeners' Friend, Clarke's, 415 Gardeners, Royal Benevolent Institu- tion. 48 Gardening, cottage, 163, 173, 314, 33S, 386, 330, 367, 405, 423, 461, 304, 533, 641, 561, 593 ; formal leaf, 231 ; in the midst of house building, 319; spring, 416, 439 ; wild, 7 ; window, 166, 682, 607 ; winter, 439 Garlic butter, 275 Garrya elliptica in fruit, 365 ; fremina, 26 1 Gas lime as a manure, 574 Gaultheria procumbens, 686 Gazanias, late propagation of, 444 Gelsemium nitidum, 516 Gen^tyllis fuchsioides, 599 Genista pendula grafted on the Labur- num, 424 ; prsecox, 192 Gentiana acaulis, 618 ; vema among stones, 7 Georgia, Water Melons in, 256 Geranium armenum in autumn, 458 ; Endressi, 50 ; in autumn, 458 ; platy- petalum, 7 Germany, the Phylloxera in, 332 Gesneras, culture of, 163 Gherkins, culture of, 346 Girdling Peach trees, 402 Gladiolus, culture of the, 268, 324, 337, 688; Dr. Hogg, 204; forcing, 183; Lady Aberdare, 204 ; Rev. M. J. Berkeley, 204 ; Saundersi, 235 Gladstone, Mr., on village flower shows, 227 Glasnevin, Darlingtonia californica at; 123 Glass cutting, 394 Globe-flowers, autumn flowering, 416 Gloriosas and their culture, 499 Glossary of materials used in garden receipts, 613 Gloxinias, culture of, 429, 631 j in cool houses, 228 ; seedling, 360, 678 Glues, various, 291 Godetia, Lady Albemarle, 148 ; Lindley- ana fl.-pl., 579; Whitney! ftammea, 479 Gompholobium angustif olium, 76 Good King Henry, 543 ; seeds of, 576 Gooseberries, 461 ; as espaliers, 235, 330 early, 110; forced, 116; grafting, 63; in bush form, 330 ; standard, 560 Gooseberry and Currant compote, 119 ; caterpillar, 391 ; shows, 340 Gourds, large, 523 Graft hybrids, 417, 161 Grafting, bottle, 211; Ficus elastica, 360 ,- hybridization in relation to, 319 ; natural, 30; seedUng Pelargoniums for variegation, 281; the Potato on the Tomato, 431 ; Vin«s— putting on Grapes, 368 ; wax, 293 Gram, 605 Grand Trianon gardens, 607 Grape Hyacinth in winter, 618 Grape growing, economical, 303 ; hints on, 8 ; scissors, 319 : Abercaimey, Seedling, 8, 478 ; at Charville Forest, 693 ; Chasselas de Fontainebleau, 208 ; Clive House Seedling, 665 ; Foster's White Seedling, 221; Gol- den Queen, 468 ; Gros Guillanme, heavy bunches of, 560; Madresfield Conrt, 373. 446, 431, 531,603 ; Mrs.Pear- 8on,468; Mrs. Pince's Black Muscat, 79, 402, 462, 636; Venn's Black Mus- cat, 62 Grape Vine, large American, 29; the out-of-doors, 285 ; treatise on the, 411 Grapes, 323 ; Almerian, kept in Cork dust, 60 ; autumn, 279 ; at Heckfield, 327- "blind"— a caution, 62; heavy bunches of. 280, 481 ; in dry packing, 3 ; in unhealed Vineries, 369 ; Lady Downes, keeping from "scalding,'' 124 J large- berried, 438 ; late, 458; mildew on, 62, 329 ; Muscat, in bottles of water, 481 ; open-air, 398, 431 ; prices of, 657 ; Royal Muscadine, on walls, 416; rust on, 4, 111 ; shanking of, 217 ; thinning, 36 ; winter, 279 Grass, a new, 662 ; green, in Hyde Park, 182 ; inlother Parks, 266; v. Ivy for tpwn terraces, 440 Grasses, ornamental, 605 ; dried, 657 Graveyard gardens, 483 Greenhouse cottagers', 178; decoration, Dracjenas for, 609; Palms for, 609 ; plants, 21, 11 Greens, curled, 41 Grevillea Priessi, 678 Grieve, Mr., on Hybrids, 250 GriflSnias and their culture, 381 "Ground Flowers and Fern Leaves," 695 Groundsel, Tyerman's, 553 Ground-work, 624 Gum Cistus, hardy varieties of the, 132 Gum tree, the, 300 Gunnershnry, Seakale culture at, 396 Gymnocladus canadensis aureo-varie- gatus, 276 Gymnogramma Alstoni, 91 Gymnothrix japonica as a greenhouse plant, 362 H. Hajmanthus cinnabarinus, 438 Hail-storm, a disastrous, 98 ; Relief Fund, the, 97, 151, 208 "Handbook of Rural Sanitary Science," 119 Hard to please, 55 Heaths, 668 ; British, 646 ; Cape, 11 ; hardy, as autumnal flowers, 419 Heating hothouses, preparing for, 212 Heatherbank, Begonias out-of-doors at, 306 ; hardy plants in flower at, 456 ; new Lily at, 278; other Lilies at, 254 Hebeclinium ianthinum, 531 Heckfleld Gardens, 232 ; flower garden- ing at, 337 ; Grapes at, 327 Hedges, cutting, 687; evergreen, 104 j Ivy, 545 ; new, planting, 637 ; Rose, 583 Helianthus cucumerifolius, 183, 419; orientalis, 419 Helichrysum orientale, 7 Heliotrope, 429 Hellebores in conservatories, 678 Herbaceous borders, errors in planting 380 Herbaria, management of, 59 Herbarium, a European, 393 ; insects, 295 Herbs, mixed, 119 Herefordshire, fruits of, 433 Heuchera lucida, 577 Hibiscus Colleri, 638 ; Denisoni, 490 ; insignia, 366 Hickories, transplanting, 389 Hippeastrums, removing offsets from, 400 Hoeing, 359 Hokkaido Woods, climbing shrubs in, 118 Holdings, small, 76 Holland House, two views of, 233 Holly berries, scarcity of, 677, 616 ; hedges, planting, 460 ; large various- leaved, 434 ; the Minorca Black, 434 Hollyhock, Virgin Queen, 148 Hollyhocks, culture of, 218, 263; amongst Rhododendrons, 428 Honeysuckle berries, poisoning by, 331 Honeysuckle for forcing, 599 Hops I). Celery Fly, 343 Horse Chestnut, the Crimson, 37 Horseradish, 463 ; imported, 255 ; in Covent Garden market, 576 Horticultural Club, 576 Horticultural Exhibition at Gilmore's, New York, 396 loriiju'ture witli^ut humbug, 516 Hospitals, flowers for, 63 THE GAEDBN INDEX. [SCTFISICBIII TO THB GiBDZIT, DEC. 30 ,1876. Hothouse baildinpr, 5-ti Hothooses, preparing for hcatmg, 212 House Siea, 298 Hooscs, mixed. Vines in, 207 Hovev, Mr., on Strawberries and their culture, 325 How little we know, 65 "How to grow Strawberries with suc- cess," 179 Humea elegans, culture of, 67 Hnmeas, culture of, 609 Hyacinths, culture of, 110,688; dwarf in sand, 261 ; how to grow, force, and show, 229 ; in beds, preparation for, 387 ; in Moss baskets, 682 Hj-acinths, propagation of, by their leave?, 016 Hyacinthus candicans, 185 i hardy, 208 Hybridization in relation to grafting 319 ; of the Strawberry, 238 Hybrids, graft, -118, 461 ; Mr. Grieve on ; 67, 78, 260 ; Potato, 417 ; sterile or not? 160 Hyde Park, flower gardening in, 206 j labelling in, 151 Hydrangea, a climbing, 60 ; argentea- variegata, 10 Hydrangeas, culture of, 137 ; the, 261 Hypericum calycinum, 450; datum, 450 ; liircinum minus, 450 ; hircinum, 450; oblongifolium, 450; patulum, 415, 420 ; prolifioum, 450 ; uralum, 450 I. Iberis sempervirens, 460 Icacina Manni, 583 Ilex balearica nigrescens, 424 ; hetero- phylla magna, 434; verticillata, 434 Immortelle plant, the, 7 Impatiens glanduligera, 304 India, Caoutchouc irees in, 361 Indian gardening, book on, 618 India-rubber plants, propagating, 264 in India, 351 Insoct fertilization, 668 Insects injurious to forest trees, 496 ; various, 206 Inverary Castle, 663 lonopsidium acaule, 638 Ipomcea cojralea, 479 ; Horefalliaj, 638 pandnrata. 426 Ireland, hardy Talms flowering in, 68 ; planting in, 661; Potato crops in,' 254; nurseries in, 661 Iris, a Christmas-flowering, 679 ; ever- blooming, 379; florentina, 3. Ill; iherica, culture of, 678; Isevigata, 459; ruthenica, 366, 379; (Xiphion) alata, 679 Irises, the, 626; Japanese, 611; select, 269 ; and " Gardeners' Chronicle," 75, 695 Irrigation in the garden, 360 Isle of Wight, Eucalyptus flowering in, 71 ; plants in flower in, 618 Italy, Eucalyptus globulus in, 327 Ivy hedges, 646 Ixias, 689 Ixora javanica floribunda in bloom, 678 ; roginn, 61 Ixoras, cnltnro of, 620 Jaborandi, cultivation of, 36 Jacob's Ladder, British, 676 Japanese garden at Alexandra Palace, 3 Jasmine, the Carolina, 616; the largo white, 97, 168, 286, 328 Jasminum grandifiorum, 97, 286, I ofiicinalo, 168 " Journal des Roses," 657 July, floral decorations for, 68 Juno, garden vegetation in, 76 Juniper, Lawson's, 421 ; tho Chinese 686 Justicia flavicoma, 423, K. Kale, 661 Kalmias, culture of, 688 ; as water-side plants, 9 Kalosanthes, culturo of, 136, 314; versi- color, 26 Kensington Gardens, Foxgloves in, 29 Kent, Camelhas in the open air in, 426 Kentia gracilis, 378 Kew Gardens, 147 Killamey, Camellia at, 263 ; Lobelia Dartmanni at, 125 Kitchen garden, 106, 136, 166, 189, 193, 267, 268, 293, 338, 339, 387, 427, 419, 490, 532, 663 ; walks and edgings, 65, 98 ; walks in the, 29, 69, 90 ; edgings for, 69, 90; formation of, 397; watering, 625 Kniphofia caulescens, 4 Knotweed, rock, 398 Kohl Rabi, 119 Kyllingia monocephala, 599 Labelling in Hyde Park, 161 Labels, 297 Laburaum flowers in winter, 538 ; the sweet-scented, 424; robustum, 263 Lachenalias, culture of, 86, 588 Lfelia albida at Tooting, 678 ; anceps, 633 Lagerstrcemeria indica, 280 Lancashire, New Zealand Flax in, 693 Landscape gardeners, amateur, hints for, 278 ; in the future, 1 Landscape gardening, Mr. Olmsted on, 149 Language of flowers, 69 Lapageria alba, 500 ; rosea, 500 ; and its white variety, 456 ; rosea-alba, 255 Lapagerias from cuttings, 151 ; white and red, 419 Larch, a Weeping, 685; heart-rot or dry-rot in. 492 Larkspur, the scarlet, 20 Lathyrus Drummondi, 234; latifolius splendens, 103 ; odoratus for cut blooms, 129 ; pyrenaicus for the wild garden, 330 Lattice-leaf Plant, the, 534 Laurel, Azorean Portugal, 421 Laurentia camosula, 490 Laurustinns forced, 617 Lavatera arborea, 519 Lavender crop, the, 240 Law, 24, 68 ; on removal of shrubs, 666 Lawns, Moss on, 322, 650; on chalk, re- novating, 260, 283 ; Plantains on, 596 ; preservation of, 388; removing Daisies from, 54, 679; treatment of, 189; -weeds on. 473 ; worms on. 495 Lea Bridge, Persian Cyclamens at, 438 Leaf and flower photographs, 433 Leaf-gardening, formal, 234 Leaf-gathering machine wanted, 216 Leaves, autumn, 398 ; dead, 622 ; value of, as manure, 391 ; as mulching, 664 Loaves, electricity of, 606 Looks, culture of, 189, 430, 604 ; weight of six, 603 Lemon juice and disease, 608 Lentil Bean, 606 Leptosiphon roseus, 50 Lespedeia bicolor var. Sieboldi, 216 Lettuce, culture of, 161, 189, 609 ; Cos, 366 ; Drumhead, 270 ; Moorpark, 92 ; Paris White Cos, 318; sowmg, 220; winter, 486, 606 Leucocarpus alatus, 568 Leucojum vemom, 360 Leucothoe Davisiro, 203 Libonias, 21 Library, 179, 336, 411, 676 the Lindloy, 24 " Life of a Scotch Naturalist," 676 Light, shoots seeking, 606 Ligustrum japonicum argonteum mar- ginatum, 384; tricolor, 304; ovali- foUum variegatnm, 364 Lilac, a double, 365; sucker-flowering of the, 492 ; the Persian, for forcing, 210 Lily of the Valley, 410, 487; at home and imported, 399 Lily, beds,'wet, 662; Humboldt's, 60; new, at Heatherbank, 278 ; new Crimson-rayed, 327, 362, 383 ; the large Red-rayed, 72 ; the Long-tubed, 151 ; the Prairie, 619 ; tho white Japan, 97 ; Wallich's, 436 Lilies, 217 ; CaUtornian, 72 ; giant, 72 ; Indian, 426 ; in pots, 2&0 ; Japanese, 57 ; late-flowering, 101 ; Mariposa, as cut blossoms, 3 ; old, 50 ; the, at Heatherbank, 254 Liliuni auratum, 72; omentum, 327; candidum, 50; c. marginatum as a variegated edging plant, 460 ; Chaixi, 37 : giganteum, 60 ; Humboldti, 60 ; Krameri, 163 ; Philippinense, 378 ; neilgherrense, 161, 228, 252, 278, 490 ; Wallichianum, 182, 228, 262, 428, 438, 458, 480 Lime juice and disease, 606 Lime, the English, in America, 323 ; in London parks, 161 ; trees, select, 199 Limnocharis Humboldti out-of-doors, 129 Ling or Heather, the, in Massachusetts, 199 Llnum grandiflorum, 129 ; trigynum, 21 Loam for potting, 314 Lobelia cardinaUs, 232 ; coronopifolia, 92; Dortmanni at Killarney, 126; fulgens as a bedding plant, 352 ; large blue-flowered, 92 ; lustrous, 178 ; pumila magnifica, 380; St. Martin's Blue, 204, 306; subunda, 131 ; herba- ceous, 4S8 ; late propagation of, 444 Locust trees, the end of the, 361 Lomaria cihata, 665 London, Chrysanthemums in and near, 495 ; deciduous shrubs tor, 698 ; deciduous trees for, 596 ; plant culture in, 577 ; commons, 3, 336 ; floriculture, 577 ; gardens. Scarlet Runners for, 376 ; trees in, 255 ; tropical plants in, 232 ; parks, 838; the Lime in, 161 Longleat, Huon Pine at, 537 ; Maiden- hair tree at, 537 Looking forward, 299 Loosestrife, Clethra-like, 355, 380 Love Apple, the Texas, 463 Luculiagratissima, 667 ; at Dnimlanrig, 677 Lyall's Crowfoot, 419 Lycaste lasioglossa, 378 Lychnis Pios-cuculi ifl.-pl.-albo, 30 ; Flos-cucuU, fl.-pl.-roseo, 30 ; lagaacse as a border flower, 3 ; the double scarlet, 203 Lychnises, Alpine, 120 Lycopersicum esoulentum, 42; texanmn, 463 Lysimachia clethroides, 366, 380 M. Macrozamia Paulo Gulielmi, 366 ; tri' dentata, 300 ; var. oblongifoUa, 306 Magnolia, large ItaUan, 182 Mahornia pinnata, 207 Maida Vale, Amaryllises at, 618 Maiden-hair Fern, a new, 400 Maiden-hair tree, the, 637 Maize, 208 Mallow, the tree, 619 Mandovilla suaveolens, 600 Mandragora autumnalis, 668 Man-eating tree, tho, 621 Manure, gas lime as; 674 ; for Potatoes; spent tan a, 593 ; salt as, 432 ; value of leaves as, 391 Manures and their application, 358; li- quid, 320 Maranta, a hardy, 425 Maranta Massingiana, 372 Maraltia attonnata, 378 Marigold, shining-leaved, 328 Marigolds, dwarf, 283 Market, plant-growing for, 584 Marrow, the Cucumber, 220 Martynia, New Hybrids, 579 Massachusetts, Ling in, 193 Masdevallia ionocharis, 503 ; polysticta, 490; tovarensis, 510 MasdevaUias, culture of, 211 ; propaga- tion of, 210; select, 240 Mate on Paraguay Tea, 515 Mauritius, Botanic Garden at, 398 Mayflower, the, in the Edinburgh Bo- tanic Garden, 450 Mealy bug, 298 Meconopsis Wallichiana as an autumn flower, -393 Medicago elegans, 390 Moll's Park, Conifers at, 12t Melon, another new, 124 ; Colston Bas- set, 303, 372; First Lord, 79 Melons, culture of, 60, 189, 324; new 176, 369; setting of, 8; splitting, 8,, ■136, 162 ; sugar from, 69 ; Water, in Georgia, 256 Men — practical v. scientific, 64 Mentzelia ornata, 151, 619 Mercury, 612 Mice, 393 Michaelmas Daisies, 618 ; in Covent Garden, 376 ; select, 116 Microscope, pollen-tubes for the, 203 Mignonette, culture of, 135, 567 ; dwarf, 579 ; the year round, 497 Mildew, eradicating, from Vineries, 332; on Roses, 321 ; on Vines, 320, 360, 376 Mildew destroyer. Speed's, 695 Millet, 525 Millepedes, 321 Moccasin-flower, the, for indoor decora- tion, 29 Mole crickets, 321 Monardella macrantha, 380 Monkshood, Japanese, 490 Mora excelsa, 288 Moraja (Iris) flmbriata, 412, 438, 456 Moricandra sonchifoUa, 106 Morren's *' Correspondance Botanique," 675 Mortar for garden walls, 321 Moss, 322 ; on lawns, 550 Mountains,',treo growth on, 389 Mulching, advantages of, 480; impor- tance of, 218 Musa Ensete as a window decorative plant, 477 ; Bapientum at Syon House, 436 Musas, wintering, 573 Muscari monstrosum, 7 Mushroom beds, salting, 375 ; spawn, 322 Mushrooms, culture of, 10, 314, 376, 422 ; poisonous, antidote for, 478 ; protec- tion of, 525 ; in Anglesoa, 618 Music, effect of, on plants, 623 Mntisia docurrens, 218 Mutisias, the, culture of, 134, 213; at Bitton, 167 , Myosotis, the, culture of, 97 ; azorica, 131 ; disBiti&ora, 234 N. Nails, 346 Narcissus, ovilture of, 110, 588; Hore- fleldi, 619 ; (Bulbocodium) monc- phylluB, 678; muticus, 306; Paper- white, 198 Nature printing, 316 Naudin, M., on the European Palm and its varieties, 610 Nectarines, culture of, 60, 237, 321, 338, 670 ; different kinds of, in one house, 204; on magnesian limestone, 303; on open walls, 21 ; Victoria, at Wol- beck, 236 ; Welbeck Seedling, 1 18 Noill prize, tho, 33 Nelumbium specioaum, 293 New England, Fears in, 221 Now York, Horticultural Exhibition at, 396 Now Zealand Flax, hardy, 679 THE Q-ARDEN INDEX. Nice, tree at, 556, 576 Nierembergia rivularis, 498, 516, 619, 637 Nierembei'gias, 2i7 Nitrogen, substances from which crops obtain, 10 North of England Horticultural Exhi- bition, 351 Northumberland Avenue, trees in, 438 Northumberland House, site of, 120 Norway, influence of coast climate on Alpine vegetation in, 15S •' Notes on Collecting and Preserving Natural History Objects," 59 November, decorations for, 621 ; Plame- flowera in, i58; Garibaldi Straw- berries in, 458 Nurseries in Ireland, 664 Nursery, an American, 118 NuttalUa cerasltormis, 133 Nymphffia, a rose-coloured, 266; alba, 38 ; flava, 67 O. Oak, a noble, 664; mode of barking, 664; price of, in Scotland, 133 ; the Lucombe, 506 Oaks, ciuick-growing, 622 ; of the United States, 208,221 Obituary, 228, 252, 372, 478, 496, 576, 616 October, floral decorations for, 400 Odontoglossum, Almond-scented, 443; cirrhosum, 203 ; Halh, 106 ; lieve, 603 ; madrense, 443 Odontoglossums, the best, 106 (Enothera crespitosa, 304; exlmia, 34; montana, 306 ; triohoealyx, 419 Oleria Haastii, 125 Omphalodes Luciliffi, 480 Oncidium cheirophorum, 638; corni- gerum, 578; curtum, 131; Londes- boroughianum, 665 ; stramineum, 378 Onion-fly, the, 93, 296 ; Queen, 204, 486 ; the Trebons, 19-1, 204 Onions, 504 ; antumn-sown, 129 ; trial of, 3, 29 ; culture of, 189, 440 ; weight of sis, 602; winter, 92 Oranges, South Sea, 201 Orange tree, old, 137 ; old, death of, 638 Orchid culture in America, 601 Orchard house, the, 96; trees, newly- bought, 595 Orchard, planting an, 378 Orchards, cultivation of, 602 ; drain- ing, 602 ; pruning bearing. 221 ; best for hardy fruits, 461 ; screens for, 221 ; top dressing, 279 Orchid beetle, 297; insects, 369; a sin- gular, 694 Orchids, culture of, 23, 41, 57, 85, 105, 137, 165. 230, 248, 267, 291, 316, 338, 363, 410, 439, 449, 489, 489, 521, 648, 568 ; at rest, 301 ; for cut flowers, 206 ; in bloom, 398, 438, 498 ; at Kew, 228 ; our native, 34; variegated, 388; ven- tilation for, 190 ; watering, 25 Orchis latifoha, varieties of, 76, 97 Omus europasa, 506 ; serotina alba, 606 ; s, violascens, 506 Orris root, 3, 111 Osmanthus ilicifolins, 664 Othonna crassifoHa, 260 Ouvirandra fenestraUs, 634 Oxalisenneaphylla, 402; Smithi 380 Ox-Celery, 625 Oxfordshire, notes from, 33; Pome- granates fruiting in, 481 Oxydendrouarborenm, 586 Packing fruit, mode of, 311 j Grapes, Cork dust for. 50; plants, a French mode of, 185 Pteoniaa, select, 369 Paints, 346 Pahn, a new edible, 11 ; a royal, 671 ; Bourbon Fan, in sub-tropical gardens^ 364 ; Dwarf Pan, hardy in Scotland, 492; European, M. Naudin on the, 610 ; Fan, a stately, 463 ; the Chusan, 333 Palms for greenhouse decoration, 609 ; hardy, flowering in Ireland, 63 ; hardy, in Yorkshire, 458 Pampas Grass, 376, 603 Panicum miliacum, 625 Pans, suspended, for plants, 540 Pansies, autumn, 355 ; prolonging the bloom of, 54 ; summer bedding, 519 Pansy, Blue Bonnet, 50 ; Sunny Park Bival, 60 Papaver umbrosum, 24, 71 Paper-making, new material for. 335 Paradise stock. Apples on the, 458 Paris Exhibition, 1878, 578 Park, a people's, 483 ; new, at Bii'ming- ham, 125; West Bromwich, 151 Parks, gate lodges in the, 312 ; the Grass in the, 256 Parocho3tu5 communis, 419 Parrottia persica, 506 Parsley and its varieties, 626 ; wintering in barrels, 495 ; protectors, 543 Parsnips, culture of, 318, 484 Parsons Green, Edinburgh, a wall- fernery at, 38 Partridge Berry, the, 688 PassiflorsE, the, 12, 429 Passiflora ccernlea, 380 ; edulia in a cool house, 436 Passion-flower, Golden-fruited Blue, 280 Passion-flowers, the, 13, 20, 429 Pavement, wood, 55 ; the worst, 46 Pavia macrostachya, 263 Pea-flowers, Alpine, 97 Pea, Carter's Commander-in-Chief, 299 ; Dr. Maclean, 299; Fillbasket, 120; Laston's Supreme, 119 ; Laxton's Unique, 10 ; Maclean's Advancer, 10, 68 ; origin of the, 65 ; The Shah, 220 ; the Shamrock, In Scotland, 419 ; lax- ton's William the First, 93 ; growing in trenches, 674 Peas, culture of, 86, 610, 633 ; dwarf, a selection of, 194 ; late, 164 ; Mr. Lax- ton's, Messrs. Hurst & Sons' prizes for, 92; new, 93; November-sown, 642 Peach, the, 237 ; Lord Palmerston, -136, 462 ; Alexander, 176 ; Early Crawford, 256 ; borders, 367 Peach trees, girdling, 402 ; slitting shoots of, 390 ; standard, at Waltham Cross, 365 Peaches, culture of, 56, 136, 318, 324, 338, 449, 570; difflerent kinds of, in one house, 304 ; early, 331 ; late, 309, 372 new, 79 ; new early, 79, 265 ; on mag- nesian limestone, 303 ; on open walls, 21 Pear, the, 236; Delicea d'Hardenpont, 660; Doyenne as a stock, 602; Knight's Monarch, 481 ; ripening prematurely, 462; P. Barry, 231; Sutton's Great Britain, 134; the Dorondeaa Jargonelle, in Scotland, 418; Winter Nehs, 695 Pear tree, the American pyramidal, 424 Pear (wild) trees, large, 661 Pear tree slugs, 346 Pears, culture of, 66, 290, 324. 428 Pears at the ends of branches, 360 Pears from California, 657 Pears, gathering, 292; New England, 221 ; origin of, 8 ; selecting, 279 ; thin- ning, 36; clay soil for, 602 Peat, for potting, 314 ; value of, 181 Pecan-nut country, the, 71 Pelargonium, double white Zonal, Mrs. Trevor Clarke, 48 ; Leamington Las- sie, 91, 283, 383 ; Madame A, Baltet, 148; Madame Buchler, 276 Pelargonium Foley, 48 ; Sappho, 48 ; Stag's-horn, 419 Pelargonium, large-flowered, 607 ; Lord of the Isles, 48 Pelargonium cuttings, striking in sand and water, 71 Pelargonium Society, the, 29 Pelargoniums, culture of, 20, 40, 85, 104, 136, 247, 313, 609 ; and Verbenas, 579 ; Cape, a bed of, 283 ; fancy, 408 ; large- flowered, 408, 607; late propagation of, 444 ; scarlet, 75 ; scented-leaved, a bed of, 383 ; scented-leaved, as basket plants, 419 ; seedling, grafting for variegation, 284 ; show, 410; standard, intermixing with Chrysanthemums, 479 ; V. formal leaf gardening, 323 ; variegated, propagating, 29; Zonal, 67 Pentstemon, blue flowered, 139 ; hetero- phyUus, 139 Pentstemous, the, 80 ; Alpine, 53 ; im- proved, 304 ; new, 265 Peraphyllum ramosisaimum, 133 Perfume jars, 369 Periwinkle, the mauve, 438 Pernettya Candida, 476 ; pilosa, 476 ; mucronata, as a pot plant, 601 Pernettyas, cultivated, 696 Persian Cyclamens at Lea Bridge, 438 Pescatoria lamellosa, 106 Petunias, beautiful, 125; culture of, 84; double, late-struck, 248 ; seedling, for indoor decoration, 383 ; striped, and the drought, 181 Phatenopsis at Clapton, 618, 678 ; Teitchi, 106 Pheasants, Yew leaves poisoning, 636 Philadelphia International Exhibition, 438 ; fruit for the, 161 ; at the, 393 Phlox Drummondi and its varieties, 103; splendens grandiflora, 26 Phloxes, Alpine, 53 ; herbaceous, 322 ; in Bangor, 223 ; select, 360 Photographs, leaf, 433 Phyllanthus roseus pictus, 261 Phylloxera vastatrix, cure for the, 478 in France, 337 ; in Germany, 332 ; h Madeira, 368 ; M. Dumas on, 361 ; M Dumas' remedy for the, 401; means of destroying, 482 ; new cm'e for the, 304 Physalia Alkekengi, 433 Picotee, Princess of Wales, 91 Picotees, raising new varieties of, 33 Pieris, ovahfolia, 389 ; the Nepaul Goat poisoning, 389 Pilocarpus pinnatus, 36 Pine-apples, 323, 621 ; Cayenne, heavy, 458 ; for market, 560 ; St. Michael's, in summer, 3 Pine tree, the Swiss Stone, 491 ; Huon, 506, 632 ; at Longleat, 637 ; Umbrella, 493 Pink, Alpine, hybrids from the, 460 Pinks, select, for forcing, 210 ; for forc- ing, 635 Pinus Cembra, 491 ; insignia, 636 ; a large, 492 ; Pinaapo, 86 ; sylvestris argentea, 424 ; s. aurea, 424 ; tuber- culata and its cones, 491 Pitcairnea muscosa at Tooting, 678 Pittoaporum Colensoi, 493; Tobira in South Walea, 304 Pita and frames, 58 Plagianthua betuUnua, 419 Planea on the Thames Embankment, 537 ; on river embankmenta, 603 Plantains on lawns, 696 Plant collecting in the Tyrol, 338; culture In London, 677 ; growing for market, 584 ; houses, mixed, 608 ; houses and pits, 267 ; packing, a French mode of, 185 Planting for our heirs, 188 ; fruit trees, 624; hedges, 587; herbaceous borders and beds, 354; herbaceous borders, errors in, 380 ; in Ireland, 664 ; need of variety in, 623 ; thick, 657 Planting, and what to plant, 697 Plant, table. Asparagus as a, 130 ; Rivina humilis, as a, 601 ; hedge. Prince's Feather, as a, 356; town, Viola Blue-beU, as a, 398 Plants, Alpine, at Sydenham, 103 ; American, in loam, 78; Australian, and peat, 37; bedding, 267,314,338; from seed, 213, 280 ; late propagation of. 444; protection of, 388; winter treatment of, 467 ; box for conveying, 538, 637; bulbous, 410; carpet, the large-leaved Saxifrages as, 428; city window, 71 ; conservatory, 338, 488 ; cross-fertilization of, 696 ; decorative, 91 ; in Oovent Garden, 433 ; drying, 69 ; effect of drought on the distribu- tion of, 269 ; effect of music on, 623 ; flowering, November, 498 ; for deco- ration, 581 ; for forcing, 210 ; Govern- ment diatribution of, 351 ; green car- pet bedding, 260 ; greenhouse, 34, 136, 179, 218, 247, 300, 314, 362, 409, 468, 667, 609; hardening off, 334; hard- wooded, 443 ; hardy, in flower at Heatherbank, 456 ; border, obtaining, 34 ; herbaceous, for the wild garden, 176 ; indoor, at the Anerley Nursery, 383 ; Isle of Wight, 618 ; in pots, watering, 64 ; living, fungous growth on, 378 ; market, 640 ; miscellaneous, 43, 148, 304, 276, 409, 475, 556 ; native, in the wild garden, 177; new, 106 366, 378, 490, 565 ; not yet in com- merce, 300 ; Pacific Coast, 33 ; potting, hints on, 71 ; preserving, 369 ; raised in pots, planting out, 64 ; rock, Epi- phylluma as, 603 ; " Salmoniceps " on, 480 ; room, 413 ; sea-shore, in Fifeshire, 100 ; soft-wooded, 447 ; soot water for, 610 ; stove, 41, 85, 164, 319, 291, 300, 372, 428, 467, 507, 520 ; sub- tropical, an addition to, 9 ; succulent, 354; late propagation of , 444 ; out-of- doors, 440 ; suspended pans for, 640 ; table, 319; the silicium of, 59; tro- pical, in London flower gardens, 232 ; variegated flne-leaved, 40 ; variegated from seed, 238, 334 ; wall, 53 ; water- side, Kalmiaa as, 9 ; window, Vero- nicas aa, 578 ; dwarf, pyramidal, 697 ; self-fertilisation of, 016 Platycerum Willincki, 383 Platycodon grandiflorum, 3)7 Pleasure ground, 338 Plum, the, 233 ; Prince of Wales, 133 ; crop in the Eastern Counties, 316 ; trees, the black knot of, 38 Plums, 324 ; culture of, 56 ; the earliest, 208 ; early, 279 ; late, 372 Plumbago oapensis, 500; rosea, 433, 535 Poinsettia, a new seedling, 538 Poinsettias, culture of, 433; at Acton, 678 Poisoning by Honeysuckle berries, 361 ; pheasants by Irish Yew berries, 636 Polemonium coeruleum, 676 ; variega- tum, 466 Polemoniums, the, 508 Polygonum vacciniEohum, 398 Pomegranate treea in Bath, 438 Pomegranates in Battersea Park, 280 Pomegranates fruiting in Oxfordshire, 431 ; orchards of, 62 Pond-weed, the Cape, 613 Poplar, the Carolina, 589 ; the Golden, 199 Poppy, Mr. Thompson's, 71 Poppy wort, Cahfornian, 478; Cath- cart's, 4-40 Poppyworts, Satin, as autumn flowers, 398 Portugal Laurel, Azorean, 424 Potato, Alexandra Kidney, 348 ; best late American, 43; Blanohard, 194; BrowneU's Superior, 348 ; Early Rose on the Bagshot Sanda, 256; Extra Early Vermont, 238 ; Garibaldi, 348 ; hybridization of the, 417, 443 ; Kidney, Fenn's Woodstock, 376 ; International, 299, 348 ; Lye'a Favourite, 343 , Magnum Bonum, 636 ; on the Tomato, grafting, 431 ; Porter's Excelsior, 318; Schoolmaster, 204, 348; beetle; the Colorado, 60, 193, 347, 361, 478; crop, the, 151 ; crop of 1875, the, 193 ; and the drought, 320 Potato crop in Ireland, 204; in York- shire, 324 THE GARDEN INDEX. Potato culture, proats arising from, •436 Potato diBease, 182, 301, 370, 419 ; out- break of, 21; Solanum marginatum affected by, 432 Potato Exhibition at Alexandra Park, 3« Potato Show, the International, 304 Potato trials ia Notts, 110 Potato yield, large, 442 Potatoes, 164; American, 324; early, 164 ; lifting, 176 ; saper-tuberation of, 176 ; early v. late varieiies, 495 ; effect of temperature on the growth of, 132 ; in dry seasons, salt for, 390 ; large yield of, 270 ; late keeping, 130 ; mis- cellaneous, 313; new American, 186; spent tan a manure for, 593 ; varieiies of, 602 ; white-fleshed, 693 PolentUlas, select, 259; the Shrubby, 199 Pothos fcetida, 601 Potting, a few remarks on, 78 ; plants, hints on, 71 ; loam for, 314; peat for, 311 Pot maggots, 347 Pots, worms in, 494 Pratia repens, 64 Prenanthes (Sonchus) elegantissima, 64 Preserving Ferns in a green Etate, 674 ; plants and flowers, 369 Preston Flower Show, 204 Primrose, a hybrid, 30 1 Primula cortusoides amcena, 535 ; inter- media, 36 Primulas, culture of, 137, 410, 667 ; au- tumn, 42); Chinese, 20; late-sown, 216 Prince's Feather as a hedge plant, 256 Propagating secret, a, 605 Propagation of Hyacinths by their leaves, 616 Protecting early Tine borders, 303 ProteCion for fruit trees, 310 Protectors, Parsley, 512 Pnining bearing orchards, 221 Pruning fruit trees, 109, 331 Pruning Tomatoes, 299 Pmnus Myrobalana, 651 Pteris sermlata cristata, 92 ; s. Leyi, 27 Pterocarya caucasica, 232 Pterostyrax hispidum, 492 Putty, 347 Pyrethrum, a good, 213 ; uliginosum, 419 Pyrethrums, select, 259 Pyrns americana fastigiata, 424 ; com- munis, 8 ; Mains, 8 Pjruscs, ornamental, 381 Quorcus Cerris Luoombiaoa, 516; Daimys, 424 ; noblUs, 424 ; pan- nonica, 424 Quince stockf, 279 Reedmace, the, for tying, 195 Regeneration, 493 Reidia glaucescens, 131 Renanthera Lowi in blossom, 97 Retinospora tetragona aurea, 204 Revalenta Arabica, Lentil Bean in, 505 Rhexia virginica, 125 Rhododendron, a history of the, 27 ; Dachess of Edinburgh, 441 ; Maiden's Blush, in greenhouse, 148 Rhododendrons, culture of, 633 Rhubarb, 604, 524 Rhus juglandifolia, 419; Toxicodendron, 419 ; vemicifera, 419 Ribes bracteatum, 475 Richardia Eethiopica, 55 Eichardias, culturo of, 23 Richmond Park, 363 ; and the public, 518 Rlcinus, 268 Rivina hnmilis as a table plant, 479, 601, 531 Rock garden, a, autumn notes on, 397 ; a natural, 356 ; soil for a, 69 D Rock Rose, hardy varieties of the, 13 Rockwork, management of, 498, 616 EoUisson's Nursery, flower beds at, 103 Rabbits, 392 Radish, a giant, 378 ; French breakfast, 10 Radishes, culture of, 161, 603 Ragged Robin, double rose, 30 ; double white, 30 Railway cordon fences in Belgium, 311 Eailway embankments, fruit treason, 376 Rain water, salt in, 612 Raisins, Malaga, 696 Ranunculus Lyalli, 419 Raspberries, culture of, 330 Raspberry planting, '^5 Raspberi'y tart, French, 119 Raspberry vinegar, 119 Rats, 392 Receipts, household, 119 " Red Rose " rental, 61 Red spider, 4'.3 Redwood, the Calitornian, 493 Roman Hyacinths, the small, 293 Romneya Conlteri, 278, 478 Root hairs, 203 ; shows, 466 Root-pruning fruit trees, 303 Rosa semperflorens, 34 Rose, a Pacific, 7 ; Bourbon, Queen of Bedders, 118; Cheshunt Hybrid (H. P.) 46 ; Cloth of Gold, good drainage for, 480 ; Duke of Connaught (H.P.), 46; Emily Laxton (H.P.), 46; La France, 686 ; Madame Lacharme, 688 ; Marchioness of Exeter (H.P.), 46 ; Mari5ohal Niel, 60O, 696 ; rate of growth of, 436; Miss Hansard (H.P.), 46 ; Mrs. Baker (H.P.), 46 ; Mr. Lax- ton (H.P.) , 91; our Christmas, 695 ; Oxonian (H. P.), 46 ; perpetual- blooming, 31 ; Robert Marnock (H. P), 46 ; Tea, Mrs. Opie, 60 ; the Alpine, 109 ; the Cherokee, 451 ; the Prairie, 61, 185; the Prairie Queen, 185 ; Triomphe de France, 563 Hose culture, a few remarks on, 326 Rose cuttings, 61 Rose growers. Conference of, 498 Rose hedges, 227, 688 Rose of Jericho, the, 312 Rose pests, 414 Rose saw-flies, 41 4 I Rose Show, Alexandra Park, 67 ; Crystal Palace, 46 ; National, 638; Royal Aiiuarium, 47 1 Rose wine, 201 Rosewood, 460 Roses, culture of, 137, 183, 303, 480, 524 ; at Colchester, a day amongst the, 49 ; autumn (lowering, 300. 43.1 ; budding, 167; climbing, greenhouse, 498; En- glish raised, 67 ; for a north wall. 664 ; for cutting, the best, 278, 324 ; at the seaside, 121 ; forcing at St. Peters- burgh, 181 ; select Hybrid Perpetual, 46 ; in pots, 85, IS.'i, 410, 427 ; minia- ture, 01; Tea-scented. 11 ; in window gardening, 682; layoting, 53; mildew on, 331 ; Moss, 3 ; now, 40, 47, 67 ; of 1875-76, 260 ; notes on, 7J ; Noisette. 47 ; protecting, 503 ; Provence, 3 ; red climbing, 498 ; scrambling, 128 ; shade for, in the open air, 71 ; summer pro- pagation of, 60.^1 ; Toa-scented, 1, 47, 67, 460 ; wall, 129 Ro^al Botanic Gardens Kvening Ffte, 29, IS Royal Botanic Society, the, 616 Royal Horticultural Society, 91, 143, 204 276, 372, 438, 475, 665 ; future of, 67, 305, 416, 400, 610, 630, 500, 570, 616 Rubus anstralis, 6.58 Rural education in France, 317 Ruscus androgynus, 419 Rust on Grapes, 414 S. Saccolabium Blumei majus, 248 Saddle-boilers, wheel-draught, 635 Saffron, Chequered Meadow, 619, 510 Sagittaria sagittifolia fl.-pl., 357, 380 Salad plants, autumn, 101 ; winter, 101 Salisburia adiantifolia, 537 Salix ccerulea, 431 ; Epilobium angnsti- folia(Fem.),424 " Salmoniceps " on rock plants, 180 Salpiglossis grandiflora, 182 Salsafy, 10.5 Salt as mannre, 132 ; in rain-water, pro- portion of, 512 ; for Potatoes in dry seasons, 396 Salt water v. weeds on walks, 167 Salvia patens wintered out-of-doors, 181 ; splendens , 109 Salvias, culture of, 21, 213 Sand and water, striking cuttings in, 97 Sarcodes sanguinea, 563 Savoy, Golden Globe, 525 ; tor winter, 43 Saxifraga japonica, 153; peltata, 330; sarmentosa, 545 Saxifrage, Japanese, 453 ; the Great Californian, 336 Saxifrages, a gai'den of, 25 ; in winter, 638 ; palmate, 7 ; the large-leaved, as carpet plants, 426 Scalds and burns, 111 Scarlet Runners and their culture. 111 Scarlet Runners for London gardens Silk 275 375 Schizostylis coccinea in the greenhouse 498 "Scholar's Handbook of Household Management and Cookery," 616 Sciadopitys verticillata, 493 " Science, Literature, and History Pri- mers," 333 Scotland, Cedrus atlantica in, 484 ; Cha- mferops humilis hardy in, 412; large Irish Tews in, 365 ; Strawberries as field crops in, 352 ; the Elder tree in, 551 ; the Jargonelle Pear in, 419 ; the Shamrock Pea in, 419; Tar Weed hardy in, 480 Scottish Arborieultural Society, 495 Scutellaria Mociniana, 603 Seakale, culture of, 404, 52 4; at Gunners- bury, 395 Sealing frua bottles, 114 Sea-shore plants, 100, 263 Season, past, lessons of the, 482 Sedum brevifolium majus, 653; glau- cum, 34 ; spectabile, 493 Seed, bedding plants from, 213, 260; EngUsh-saved, Deodars from, 416 ; i variegated plants from, 334 Seed pocket filler, new, 642 Seed saving, 363 Seeds and birds, 269 Seeds, sowing, 358 Seedling Fuchsias, raising, 327 Segar al Marium at Cairo, 583 Selaginella denticulata, 476 Sempervivum Donkolaari, 553 Senecio pulcher, 161, 568; from root cuttings, 234 September, floral decorations for, 273 Serapias papilionaceo-lingua, 373 Scvicographis, culturo of, 166 Sewage conference, report of the, 24 Shakespeare a gardener, 653 Shallots, cnlturo of, 604 Sheffield, park for, 658 Shepherdia argontea, 393 ; rotundifolio, 137 Shobdon Court, a Fungus foray at, 393 Shoots seeking light, 508 Shows, Cottagers', 371 Shrub, hardy, a rare, 261 Shrubs, deciduous, for London, 696 ; One leaved, on the Continent, 65 ; moving, 218 ; removal of, law on, 556 Shrubf , dwarf, for edgings, 610 Silenes, Alpine, 103 Silicium of plants, the, 59 Skeleton leaves and flowers, 414 Skimmia japonicaon a north wall, 143 variegata, 364 Slugs, remedies for, 434 Smilaxaspera, 7 Snails and tobacco, 556 Snails, Cucumber-eating, 542 ; remedies for, 431 Snapdragons, new, 440 Snowdrop tree, the, 506, 638 Snow plant, California, 562 Snowstorm, destructive, 478 Soap-root, commerce in, 293 Soap-wort as an autumnal garden flower, 304 Society, the Kyrle, 636 Soils, stacking, 609 Solanum capsicastrum, 266 ; in pot=. 383 Solanum marginatum affected with Po- tato disease, 432 Solanum pseudo-capsicum. 266 Solannms, culture of, 21, 213, 409 Soldier weeder, a, 319 Sonerila Hende soni argenlea, 668 ; Mamei, 565 Soot water for plants, 610 Sophronitis grandiflora, 493; on slumps of Tree Ferns, 577 Sorrel Tree, a, 586 South Kensington, 97 South Sea Oranges, 201 South Wales, Pittosporum Tobira in, 301 Spading Machine, a, 123 Spain, the Lemon-scented Verbena in. 227 Sparaxis, culture of, 539 ; pulcherrima, 46D Sparganinm ramosum for tying. 195 Speedwell, Creeping, 416 ; round-leaved, 459 ; the Mountain, 7 Speedwells, the, 611 Spinach, 592 ; Winter, 44, 276 Spirsea. Alpine, singular, 662; cscspitosa. 563 ; Lindleyana, 97 : prnnifolia in autumn, 492 : tomentosa, 6;6 Spirseas, culture of, 23 Spruces, young, for vases, 685 Squashes, American, 438 Stephanotis floribunda, 501 Sternbergia lutea, 4.)8 Stings, remedies for, -435 St. John's Wort, Spreading Shrnbhy, 41 5, 430 ; the Goat-scented, 450 ; the large-calyxed, 453 ; the Nepanl, 450 ; the Prolific, 450; the Tall, 450; the Urala, 450 St. Petersburgh, forcing Roses at, 181 Stocks, a Frenchman on, 63 ; East Lothian, 75 ; white East Lothian, 72 Stokesia cyanea, 541, 562 Strawberry, culture of the, 331 ; Dr. Hogg. 62 ; Garibaldi, .555 ; origin of the, 516 ; hybridization of the, 238 ; James Veitch, 279 Strawboi-ry plants for forcing, pre- paring, 123 ; Lucas, 47, -49 Strawberry runners for forcing, 203 Strawberry, the, Mr. Darwin on, 115 Strawbeiry jam, 119 Strawberries, culture of, 3, 21, 83, 322 Strawberries— a full crop in ten months, 12.-> Strawberries and their culture, Mr. Hovey on, 325 Strawberries as field crops in Scotland, Strawberries, Black, 78 Strawberries by post, 97 Strawberries, Garibaldi, 453 November, Strawberries, how to grow success- fully, 179 ; large, 303 ; newly-plantod, 218; packing, 77, 300; select, 176; the best, -48 ; winter, 518, 659 Strelitzia regina', 558 Succulents in winter flower gardens, 430 Sugar from Me'ons, 59 THJH GARDEN INDEX. 2111 Sugar-beet, the, and its varieties, ii Sumach, Walnut-leaved, 419 Swedish trees and wild flowers, 69 Sweet Peas for cut blooms, 129 Sweet Potato a climber, 5?2 Sweet Williams, culture o£ the, 3 ; pur- ple-leaved, 33 ; single varieties of, 32 Sycamore at Cairo, 586 Sjcamore, the Corstorphine, 42t, 496; the purple, 42 i Sydenham, Alpine plants at, 103 Syon House, Bananas at, 436 ; Yanilla at, 436 Table decorations, 47 Tacsonia Van Volxemi, 500 Tagetes lucida, 328 ; patula nana, fl.-pl., 679 Tan and its uses, 574 ; spent, a good manure for Potatoes, 693 Tar Weed, the, hardy in Scotland, 480 Taxodium sempervirens, 493 Taxus baccata Washingtoniana, 424 Temperature, effect of, on the growth of Potatoes, 432 ; lownight, for Vines, 402 Thalia dealbata, 425, 444 Thames Embankment, Savoy approach to, 208 The Gabdes, new volume of, 3 Thermometers, 436 Thibaudia glabra, 539 Thinking and working, 465 Thorn, Queen Mary's, 415 Thrips, 152 Thuja Lobbi, 676 ; occidentalis aurea, 424 Thujopsis dolabrata variegata, 476 Thunbergias, culture of, 429 TUlandsias, the, 466 Timber, prices of, 450 Tobacco-powder and Snails, 556 Todea superba, 129 ; as a room Fern, 185; Tolmisea Menziesi, 34 Tomato or Love Apple, history ef the, 42 ; antiquity of the, 412 ; Excelsior, 441; Green Gage, 375, 411; culture, 93 ; farming, 674 ; sauce, 398 ; sauce, receipt for, 356 Tomatoes, culture of, 42 J ; and their uses, 356 ; dried, 345 ; forcing, 10 ; for succession, 66 ; Gilbert's, 72 ; green, how to preserve, 388 ; on open walls, 84; pruning, 399; v. wasps, 335 Tooting.Lselia albida at, 578 ; Pitcairnea muscosa at, 578 Transplanting Cedars, 515 ; Hickories, 389 ; trees in full leaf, 293 Tree Ferns, Sophronitis grandiflora on the stumps of, 577 Tree, a fine-foUaged, 232 ; a nobis tro- pical, 288 ; at Nice, 556, 676 ; of the Blessed Virgin, 596 ; timber, the Ca- talpa as a, 293 Tree form, small fruits in, 235 Tree growth in dry and wet seasons, 366 ; on mountains, 389 Tree lovers, Japanese as, 6 )S Tree sculpture, 483 Tree seeds, American, 263 Tree stumps, how to destroy, 453 Trees and dynamite, 49 Trees at the Centennial Exhibition, 118 ; avenue of, in Japan, 30 ; dead, in Regent's Park, 93 ; deciduous, for London, 696 ; dwarf, Japanese, 495 ; estimating the ages of, 68, 71 ; fine- leaved, on the Continent, 55 ; forest and underwood, 23 ; pruning, 199 ; in full leaf, transplanting, 393 ; in Lon- don gardens, 265 ; in pastures, groups of, 9; Limes, select, 199; memorial, 622 ; nomenclature of, 148 ; pollarding, 277 ; right to remove, 24 ; second flowering and leafing of, 232; Swedish, 69 ; and shrubs, culture of, 166, 199 ; 291, i92, 339, 549 Trees and shrubs in Ireland, 125 Trees and shrubs, new, notes on some, 424 ; ornamental hardy, 364 Trenching for vegetables, 367 Triteleia uniflora lilacina, 658 Triteleias, the summer-flowering, 34 Tritonia aurea, 104, 589 Tritoma Macowani, 255 ; Uvaria gran- diflora, 438, 468 Tritomas, culture of, 483 TroUius europ33us, 416 Tropffiolum Bothwell Castle, 134 ; Dum- fries House Seedling, 184; Lobbi- anum,418; speciosum, 567 TropEeolums, culture of, 337 Tropseolums for winter flowers, 95 Tropffiolums, late propagation of, 414 Truffles, to preserve, 119 Tuberoses, barren, 269 Tuberoses out-of-doors, 351, 380 Tulipa Hageri, 106 Tulip growing for market, 573 Tulip, new species of, 323 Tulips, culture of, 410, 588 Tulip-tree wood, 118 Turnip caterpillar, 453 ; fly, 453 Tarnips, new Carrot-shaped white early, 92 Turnips, culture of, 164, 465; early French, 66; garden, 432; winter, 44 Tyerman's Groundsel, 151 Tying, materials for, 195 Typha latifolia for tying, 195 u. Ulmus Roezli, 183, 228 Underwood and forest trees, 199 United States, the Oaks of the, 208, 221 Utricularia Endressi, 91 Vallotas, culture of, 509, 589 Vanilla planifoha at Syon House, 436 Variegation, artificial, 120 Varnishes, for rustic seats, &o., 454 Vase, what is a ? 67 Vegetable culture, 357 ; life, migration of, 139 ; Marrow preserve, 394, 470 ; Marrows, culture of, 189, 122 ; soup, white, 406 Vegetables, culture of, 476, 576, 556; be- tween fruit trees, 561 ; Messrs. Car- ter's prizes for, 92 ; effects of the drought on, 194; market, 478 ; Messrs. Sutton's prizes for, 92 ; heavy, 502 ; cultivated, in America, 29 Vegetables imported in Covent Garden Market, 603, Vegetation in Corsica, 515 ; Alpine, in- fluence of coast climate on in Norway, 158 Verbena, Lemon-scented, 532 ; in Spain, 227 Verbenas and Pelargoniums, 579 ; treated asS annuals, 324 Veronica Anderson!, 679; Candida, 440 ; canescens, 440 ; corymbosa, 419 ; pinguifoUa, 469 ; repens, 7, 416 Veronicas, culture of, 218, 361 ; as win- dow plants, 678 Veronicas, the, 611 ! VerschafTeltia splendida, 463 Victoria Park, flower gardening in, 251 Victoria regia, 208 Villa d'Este, the, 513 Vinca acutiloba, 453 Vine, Burchardt's Prince, 595 ; the, in France, 536; the Turquoiae-berried, 451 ; borders, early, protecting, 303 ; disease, the, in France, 327 Vine leaf excrescences, 62 Vine mildew, 350, 376 Vine pests, 454 Vine roots and wireworms, 134 Vines, culture of, 449 ; bleeding in, 269 ; grafting, putting on Grapes, 303 Vines in mixed houses, 267 Vines, low night temperature for, 363, 402 ; pot, in Covent Garden, 233 ; pro- tecting, 544; shanking in, 416; treat- ment of, 569; young, losing their leaves, 340 Vineries, eradicating mildew from, 332 ; unheated. Grapes in, 369 Vineyard, the, at Castle Coch, 330 Vineyards in England and Wales, 301, 360 Vineyards in France, destruction of, 347 Viola Blue-bell, 479 Viola Blue-bell as a town plant, 396 Viola, La Patrie, 478 Violas at Eglinton Castle, 283 Violas, culture of, 180 ; new, 410 Violet, Lee's Prince Consort, 440, KiO Violets, culture of, 487 Violets and their times of blooming, 356 Violets for late blooming, 443 Virginian Creeper for shading glass Virginian Creeper, poisoning by, 86 Virginian Stock, new carmine, 579 Virgin's Bower, Sweet-scented, 360 Vitis heterophyllahumulifolia, 151 Wales, Vineyards in, 304, 390 Wales, South, Desfontainea spinosa in, 365 Walks, concrete, 273; edgings for, 4 salting, 167, 387; home-made as- phalte, 366 Walks in the kitchen garden, 29, 65, 90, 98 Walks, Moss on, 322 ; weeds on, 473 Wall drapery, 18 Wall dwellers, 52 Wall gardening in towns, 460 Wall tree protection, 401 Walls, damp, 273 ; garden, mortar for, 321 ; north, cropping, 536 ; fruit trees for, 431 ; open. Tomatoes on, 84 ; shaded, and their embellishment, 479 Wallflowers, English and French, 136 M. Chate on, 101 Walnut, a frost-escaping, 120; the Weep- ing, £03 Walnuts, preserving, 438; for winter use, 484 Waltham Cross, standard Peach trees at, 353 Washes for fruit trees, 454 Wasps, destruction of, 455 Water-barrow with rotary pump, 161 Water Lily, a rose-oolou red, 265 ; com mon, 38 ; Victoria, 203 Watering, 417 Watering and mulching, 359 Watering kitchen gardens, 625 Waterproofing, 455 ; garden boots, 484 Weather, mUd, in Anglesea, 593 Weather, the dry, 72 Weather wisdom, 589 Webb's, Mr., garden at Reading, 253 Weed destroyer, earth-burning as a, 66 Weeds, keeping down the, 67 Weeds on lawns, 472 Weeds on walks, 472 Weeds, removal of, 387 Weevils, 473 Welbeck, Victoria Nectarines at, 235 Wellingtonias, height of, 416 ; rate of growth in, 389; size of, in England, West London Entomological Saciety, " White's Natural History of Selborne " 675 ' Whitewash, 473 Wigandias, 263 Wild garden, a plant for the, 380 ; her- baceous plants for, 178 Wild Spaniard, the, 496 WilUams' " Stove and Greenhouse Or- namental-leaved Plants," 675 Willow, an early-flowering, 424; a late- flowering, 421 ; as a sea-side tree, 283 Willow Herb, Rocky Mountain, 64 Wind-flower, White Autumn, 283; the Scarlet, 653, 578 Windfiowers, Alpine, 74 Window gardening, 155, 607 Wine, Rose, 201 Winter Berry, the, 424 Winter Cherry, the, 398 ; the Red, 433 Winter, cropping for, 43 Wireworms, 474 Wireworms and Vine roots, 124 Woodland, an Arctic, 335 Woodlice, 474 Woods, autumn, 292 Wood Sorrel, Smith's, 380 Woodwardia radicans cristata, 419 Worms in pots, 494 Worms on lawns, 495 Xanthoceras sorbifolia, propagating. Y. Yarrow, a fine autumn-flowering, 386 Yew leaves poisoning pheasants, 536 564- Yew, the Washington, 424 Tews, Irish, large, in Scotland, 365 Yorkshire, Palms, hardy in, 453 Yucca angustifolia in bloom, 100 Yucca filif era, 596 Yucca filif era in flower, 554 Yucca qnadricolor, flowering of, 393 the species of, 554 Z. Zauschneria caUfornica on a wall, 176 Zinu'ao, double, 232 ; culture of, 84 THE GARDEN INDEX. [SUTPLBUHT TO »ni GIBBIK, DBC. 80, 1876. ILLXJSTKA-TIONS. COLOURED PLATES. Abelia triflora Apple, Cornish Gillyflower.,, Boronia elatior Canna iridiflora Cerasns Juliana floribus roseie Cyclamen cyprium Desmodium penduliflomm .., Dodecatheon iotegrifolium.,, 58 Echlam fastnosum ... •446 Embothrinm coccineum 6t« MasdeTalllaLindenl. 566 Mutisia ilicifolia Hydrangea panionlata grandiflora 261 Iberis gibraltavica Iris iberica T.ilinm Krameri Liliam Wallichianura OdontoglOBBum KoezU PasBtflora LnsigniB Pear, Beurr^ Durondeau Pentstemon diffusns... Polemonium confertum Primula intermedia ... Page . 240 I Pyros (Mains) floribunda ... Rose, La France Rose, Madame Lacharme Saxitraga peltata Bcntellaria Mociniana TillandBia Lindeni „. WO O D C U T S. Abbey of St. Victor , Adiantum digitatum, leaf of Alyssum maritimnm AmorpbophalluB Rivierl Andropogon formosua Anthurinm Bakeri Aponogeton dislachyon as a pot plant Aponogeton distaohyon as a water plant Aponogeton distacby on, rhizome of Apple, the Langham Crab Arrow-head, the Double-flowered (2 illustrations) Arum Lily, a double-spathed Ash, flowering Aspidium aculeatum Aster formosissimus Battersea Park Beet, sugar (6 illustrations) Birkenhead Park Bolbophyllum lemiscum (2 illus.) Bottle grafting Brook, the Bulb of Iris (Xiphion) alata Bor-reod, the Calamus Imperatrico Mario Calla, the Doublo-spathcd Canna, in flowor Cemetery, Spring Grove Cerasus pcndula rosea Chamiudorea geonomrcformis Chrysonthomum Burridgeanum... CochlioBtema in flower Cocos australia Colchicum ParkinBoni Coreopsis aristosa Crocus byzantinus Croton Cooperi Croton trilobum DisraeU Crystal Palace Gardens (plan of) Custard Apple, the North American Cyclamens, hardy Daisy, Hen-and-Chickens Dracaena Goldieana Drill rake, a tiseful Embothrium coccineum Entrance Verdant ■ Fern, new Maiden-hair i Fig, the Black Bordeaux Fernery, a wall Flowers, hardy, of the week in London gardens — in all, 205 illustrations— 5, 31, 51, 73, 99, 127, 169, 183, 209, 333, 237, 281, 305, 329, 363, 377, 403, 431 Fritillaria recurva Frogmore House, view of Frontispiece, James Veitch Fruit fence ; Fruit, packing box for : Fruits, impressions of (3 illuB.) Fruit tree caterpillar trap ; Garden clog, a • Garrya olliptica, fruit. bearing cat- kin of ; „ male catkin of ... ! Geometrical garden at Holland House : *' Genius of Le Notre " i Grape Bciesors : Helleborus fcetidus ,, purpurascena ■ Hen-and-Ohiokons Daisy Inverary Castlo i Iris (Xiphion) alata , „ IcBVigata ,, ruthenica Kyllingia monocephala Langham Crab Apple, the Larch, a Weeping Lattice-lenf Plant Lawn front at Holland House Maiden -hair Fern, a new Masdevallia ionocharis Masdevallias, select (13 illus.) 341- Mushroom shed (section) NuttaUia cerasiformis Odontoglossum cirrhoBum ,, flower of ,, Irove ,, madrense ,, vexillarium OdontoglosBum-house at Fomie- hurst OdontoglosBum-house, lean-to ... Oncidium curtum Orchard-house, Bpan-roofed glass- sided Ouvirandm fenestralis Packing-bos for fruit Packing plants, French modes of (2 illustrations) Peach-tree protector Poach trees, mode of treating (3 illustrations) 390, Phyllanthus roseuB pictus Pinus Cembra Planes on river embankment ... Platycerium Willincki Potato grafted on tho Tomato Protection-post, socket for Protecting early border vegetables, mode of Pruning markers (4 illustrations) Pteris sermlata Leyi 599 Reed-mace, the Sacred Bean, flowers of the ... 293 ,, fruit of the 293 Salisbury Cathedral garden ... 683 Saxifraga peltata, rhizome of ... 336 ,, sarmentosa g-ifi Square Des Batignolles, Paris ... 611 Strawberry baskets and Jars (8 illustrations) 77 Sugai--beet, the (6 illnstrations) ... 45 Sweet William, improved strain of 33 „ purple-leaved ... 33 ThaUa dealbata 425 Thibaudin, tho Carmine-tinted ... 639 Tomato, Potato grafted on ... 431 Topiary work 482, 483 Trees, clipped 483 Tuberose, sound tuber of 269 ,, unsound ditto 269 Turquoise-beiTied Vine, the ... 461 Veronica pallida 013 „ corymbosa 014 „ orchidea 614 )i priealta 615 ,, virgiaica 815 Verschaffoltia splendida 483 View in Spring Grove Cemetery 186, 187 Villa d'Esto 643 Vino, turquoise-berried 461 Wall ferneiy at Parsons Green, Edinburgh 39 Wall tree protection at Heckfleld 401 i> I, at Frogmore 310 Water-barrow, with rotary pump 161 White-flowered largo Jasmine, tho 285 Winter Cherry, tho red 483 Yucca fllif era ... THE GARDEN INDEX. THE L^TE JA.ME8 VEITOEL. The true and best memorial to any man is tlie work which he has done, and few kinds of work that fall to man's lot are more agreeable than that of the horticultarisfc. If it be true that the nian who has planted a tree has not lived in vain, he who introduces wholly new species to our country may feel high pleasure in his work. It- has, therefore, occurred to us that the most fitting accom.paniment to the portrait and dedication associated with the index to the Tenth Volume of The Gaeden, would be an enumeration of the more important trees and plants introduced by the late Mr. Veitch daring his life- time. TREES AND PLANTS INTRODUCED BY THE LATE MB. JAMES VEITCH. The following list by no means contains all the trees and plants introdnoed by Mr. Veitch; on the contrary, it contains bnt a fraction of them — the selection being restricted to those which still occupy a foremost, and probably a permanent, place in horticnltnre. Abies Alcoqniana „ braoteata ,, fii'ma „ lasiocarpa ,, polita „ Veitohi Cryptomeria elegans „ japonica Lobbi CONIFERS. Pitzroya patagonioa Jnniperns rigida Larix leptolepia Libocedrus tetragona Pinus Koraiensis Retinoapora obtasa „ „ aurea gracilis „ plumosa and varieties Retinospora sqnarrosa „ filicoides Thnja Lobbi Thnjopsis isetevirenB Torreya myriatica Saxe-Gothsea conspicua Wellingtonia gigantea BLAR-DY SHRUBS AND CLIMBERS, Ampelopsis Veitchi Azara microphylla Berberidopaia corallina Berberia Darwini Ceanothns floribnndns „ Lobbianna Dcsfontainea spinoea Eacallonia macrantha Embothrinm coocineum* Eagenia Ugni Forsythia snapensa Fremontia californica Lardizabala biternata Matisia decnrrens Pernettya speoioaa major Phileaia bnxifolia ia Veitchi boliviensis Pearcei Sedeni (hybrid) Vesuvius (hybrid) HERBACEOUS PLANTS. Calceolaria amplexicaulis Delphinium cardinale MimuluB cupreus Primula cortuaoides amoena and varieties TropsBolum Lobbi iram specioanm „ azureum Viola Intea : Amorantas melanoholions ruber „ salicifolins Blumenbaohia ooronata Calandrina nmbellata Collinsia bartsifolia ANNUALS. Collinsia verna Eachacholtzia tenoifoUa Leptoaiphon aurenm Kolana lanceolaia CBnothera bistorta Veitohi Oxalia Valdiviana Spraguea umbellata Whitlavia grandiflora THE GARDEN INDEX. ORCHIDS. Aerides Hattoni „ Lobbi „ Veitohi Anasotochilaa Lobbi ,, Veitohi Angrajcam citratum Calanthe vestita „ Veitohi (hybrid) Cattleya exoniensis (hybrid) „ Dominiana (hybrid) „ Veitchiana (hybrid) Cypripediam bai-batum „ oaudatum ,, Itovigatuni Cypripedium Peareei „ Sedeni (hybrid) „ Veitohi „ villoaum Dendrobinm BensoniiB „ albo-sangaineum „ crassinode „ cryatallinum ,, Hattoni „ Jamesianum „ Tattonense ,, tortile ,, Veitchianum MasdevaUia Veitchiana Phajns BeDSoni PhalajQopsia grandiflora Lobbi Pleione lagenaria Saccolabium giganteum ,, Blumei II II maju3 Vanda Bensoni ,, Dennisoniana „ CQDrulea „ coeruleseena „ insignia ,, auavia ,, tricolor STOVE PLANTS- ^ichynanthua Lobbi „ pulcher „ speoioaua Agalmyla ataminea Alocaaia Veitohi Amaryllis Leopold! „ pardina Aralia Veitohi „ elegantissima Bertolonia guttata Croton Disraeli ,, iindulatum „ Veitchianum „ Weismanni „ Toungi Dieffenbachia Peareei Dipladenia bolivienaia „ splendena Dracasna Chelsoni „ bybrida „ magnifioa ,, Mooreana „ regina Gymnostaohyum Peareei Hexacentria lutea ,, mysorenBia Hoya bella „ campanulata Impatiena Jerdonise Txora salicitolia „ javanica „ Lobbi Maranta Veitchi „ tnbispatha lledinilla magnifioa Nepenthea sanguinea „ lanata „ albo-marginata „ hybrida „ intermedia (hybrid) „ Chelsoni (hybrid) Pandanua Veitchi Paullinia thalictrifolia Khododendron Lobbi Sanchezia nobilis var. Sonerila margaritacea Urceolina aurea G-REENHOUSE PLANTS, Bomarea mnltiQora Cantua dependena Clianthns Dampieri Correa cardinal ia Paohsia sorratifolla ,, apeotabilis Lapageria alba (le.introduoed) LoptodactyloQ californioum Lilium auratnm Lomatia ferruginea Mitraria ooooinea Pleroraa elegans Khododendron Veitchi „ jaaminiflorum Khododendron Princeas Royal (hybrid) ,, Princesa Alexandra (hybrid) and other varieties Sarmienta repena Taosonia moUisaima Thibaudia acuminata ,, macrantha „ pulchra JULY t rsTQ ■ 1J (^4^ THE a ^ H D E N VOL. X, TEA-SOENTED KOSBS. Many of my brothers and sisters tvho love the Eose might add to their happiness by a more courageous cultivation of that exquisite variety which bears the name of Eosa iudica odorata. A vreakly confidence in the hardihood of this Eose, enfeebled, perhaps, by yet more weakly specimens, or destroyed by an abnormal frost (such as that of 1860-1), has caused a common but mistaken impression that it cannot be grown out-of-doors ; whereas during my long allegiance to our Gar- den Queen, and my " Thirty Tears' War " with her enemies, I have never, except in the year just referred to (1861), been without a supply of Tea Eoses. It is tx-ue that they thrive best on a wall — and where will you find such mural ornaments ? I will not expatiate on such robust growers as Gloire de Dijon, Climbing Devoniensis, Belle Lyonnaise, and Madame Berard, which will cover a house front with their beautiful blooms (I have 400 or 600 Eoses on a tree of Gloire de Dijon now) ; but not a few of my readers may be surprised to know that, such varieties as Souvenir d'un Ami will climb a 10-ft. wall withstanding the severities of an ordinary winter even in our midland shires, and furnish, as mine has furnished, as complete a covert for the throstle's nest as the Oak for our Eoyal Ohai'les. Nor is actual contact with the wall a neces- sity ; I have in a border, which adjoins one, and faces south, 100 healthy plants, which have braved the winter (deeply mulched, of course, but with no other protection), and, though only planted in the autumn, are blooming and growing abundantly. These are Adam, Adrienne Christophle, Aime Sisley, Anna Ollivier, Bougere, Catherine Mermet, Comtesse de Nadaillao, Devoniensis, Homer, Jean Duoher, Jean Pemet, Madame Bravy, Madame Camille, Madame Falcot, Madame Margottin, Mesdames Villermoz (white and pink, the latter a sport sent out by my old friend John Keynes as Lettie Coles, and worthy of that true florist), Marie Sisley, Marie Van Houtte, Narcisse, Niphetos, Perle des Jardins, President, Eubens, Safrano, Shirley Hibberd, and Souvenirs d'Elise, d'un Ami, de Paul Neron. These are all budded or grafted on the Dog Eose, and a large proportion are upon the seedling Brier, and supplied to me by Mr. Prince, of Oxford. I am quite sure that this seedling Brier is the. stock for Tea Eoses, and, in strong soils, for all other Eoses. If the great Eose nurserymen will overcome their prejudice against a slower process of raising, and the amateurs will overcome their pre- judice against an advance of prices which must be made by the vendor, we shall have, in my opinion, a more robust and enduring growth of Eoses upon the dwarf seedling Brier than we have hitherto seen in the garden. I speak after a long and patient experience, and surrounded by a crowd of wit- nesses. S. Eeynolds Hole. LANDSCAPE GAEDENEES OF THE PUTUEE. We have been struck by some recent remarks by Mr. Olmsted on this subject, which we reproduce for their intrinsic merit, and also because we desire to make a few observations respecting them. It does not follow, he says, that because a man is a clever gardener he must of necessity be a competent landscape gardener, any more than because he is a skilful civil engineer. Sometimes I have had the suspicion thrust upon me by the wording of cards and circulars, that some of these men, of both classes perhaps, in their honest and laudable ambition to become landscape gardeners, were actually ashamed of the term gardener. They described them. selves as landscape architects, landscape engineers, rural architects, artists in grounds, &o., &o. ; anything but landscape gardeners. And here, by way of parenthesis, let ns stick to that good old name, landscape gardener, worn, and honoured, and elevated by Eepton, Loudon, Kemp, Downing, Daniels, Banman, Cope, land, and some living men who are not ashamed of it. But to return ; suppose we combine the two professions. Putting aside all jealousies, suppose we try the experiment of training, for the future adornment of our common country, a race of men who shall be both well educated, and well trained gardeners and engineers, to say nothing now of more artistic qualifications. Is there anything inconsistent in this idea ? Cannot one he both ? It seems as thoughtless to say " No " to these queries as it would be to assert that an architect is not a skilful architect because he knows all about carpentry, and painting, and stone-cutting, and plastering, and masonry ; or to insist that because a merchant is well versed in the law of contracts, therefore, he cannot be a prosperous merchant. One of the most successful clergymen I ever knew was educated as a lawyer, and he used to say that what little success he might have had in the management of the affairs of his parish, and his friends know that it was anything but little, was due, in a large measure, to his legal training. Of course it is not practicable that all clergymen should be bred lawyers, and yet, if it were so, perhaps it would be no detriment. The thought I would emphasise by these illustrations is this : a landscape gardener cannot be too well educated. There is no danger of his knowing too much. Let him be chemist, botanist, farmer, gardener, architect, engineer, artist, it will not impair his usefulness. He will have need of all he knows, and with it all he wiU find himself wanting, or if he does not, others will. Not only the artist, but those who employ him, ought to be educated up to a higher level. The relation of lawyer to client, physician to patient, clergyman to parishioner, is well understood and obeyed. The engineer and the architect have their recognized places, and even the land-surveyor, whose processes and methods can be learned in a year, can assert his right to control his work, and be heeded ; but the position of the landscape gardener is wherever the caprice or whim of the hour may place him. His employers often have their own notions about the laying out of grounds, and it is right that they should have them : the wise landscape gardener will note and incorpo. rate them into his own designs, whenever he can do so in justice to THE GAKDEN. [July 1, 1876. hia client and himself. But, "shall I not do what I will with mine own ?" is too of ten the exponent of the treatment both he and his work are destined to receive. All who have ever practised in the profession have suffered in this way. Ropton wrote, " Of many hundred plans, digested with care, thought, and attention, few were ever so car- ried into execution, that I could be pleased with my own works." Loudon complains of the nurseryman and jobbing gardener pretending to improve the plan of the landscape gardener, "and having, by dintof persevering and talking, got the ear of his employer, the latter is prevailed on, for quiet's sake, to yield to the proposed alterations, and to admit trees and shrubs in such quantities as in some cases entirely to destroy the effect which the landscape gardener intended to produce." The only way through the consequent embarrassments and discouragements which at times weigh so heavily upon those men who have dedicated their lives to the work of adorning the homes of our beautiful land, seems to be such thorough education and training as shall enable them to command such respect and confidence from those who would avail themselves of their professional aid, as will secure to their advice and plans that deference which is now paid to the opinions of men who are in what are called the " learned professions." We heartily welcome these observations by a man who has well discharged the debt that every man owes to his profes- sion—Mr. F. Law Olmsted. We agree with Mr. Olmsted that a landscape gardener cannot be " too well educated," but it should be in his own art, we think. Some of the things men- tioned by Mr. Olmsted in the " Gardeners' Monthly " should be wholly left out of his education. Horticulture is now such a vast and ramified pursuit that if the landscape gardener knows enough of it, he cannot possibly find time to work in any useful way at arts and sciences wholly apart from his own. I maintain that, on the contrary, there is nothijig so dangerous to the beautiful but as yet landeveloped art of landscape gar- dening than the practice of men who know too much about other arts. Thus, if we have an architect who does us the honour to add the term gardener to that of his own profession, we are very likely to see stones where we asked for Grass, and flowers, and trees. His heart is in buildings, and accordingly he cannot bear to limit architecture to its legitimate use, but brings it into the garden to the invariable ruin of the latter from the artistic or monetary point of view. Hence a thousand things that men will cart away as abominations, ugly, costly, and in all ways hateful, as soon as they understand what pure landscape gardening can do for the willing earth ; hence the gardens at Versailles, mouldering, slimy, dead as the state of things that gave them birth— a garden tomb, in fact ; hence the fountain and geometrical desert at the Crystal Palace, acres of unclean water-basins, horizons of dead walls, ghastly decay of stone, gigantic water-squirting appa- ratus, which might well even astonish one of the poor Indians who sell moccasins near the " Palls ; " hence such really unmeaning wastes as those of Trafalgar Square and that at the Bayswater Koad end of the Serpentine ; these constitute a little of what we get by having an architect instead of a land- scape gardener. To an artist we are actually indebted for the revival of the absurd practice of using coloured gravels instead of living colour, although the knowledge of the artist properly snbordinate to the knowledge of the gardener would be a pre- cious aid to us. It is needful to bear in mind that our bene- factors in the above w.iy arc not wittingly cruel or unkind, but simply give us the best they know. It they knew the many " tree builders " wo have they would probably not build where building is out of place, and then cut the Lime trees into shapes to " harmonise " with the stony dreariness thereby created, as is often the case in France. This brings us to the main point — what the landscape-gardener of the future should know ; to begin with, his general education should be such as to fit him for worthily representing his art in any class of society or under all circumstances. But he should bo in the most complete sense a gardener. He should know all about gardening, whatever he did not know. He should know the trees a,ftor their kind, the stateliest forest trees, the dwarfest flowering trees ; know as far as possible their aspect in their old aee as well as in youth ; know the circumstances suited to each as regards soil and position; know also their value in the jandsoapo, singly, or in groups or groves ; know their character in all seasons, whether of spring buds, May blossoms, summer green or autumn glory. To know tho^'o things, and to wisely apply the knowledge would, it need hardly be said' give abundant occupation to the best of men. But there are many other things to be known if the landscape gardener is to do justice to his art. In all cold countries, and many tempe- rate ones, the structures devoted to the preservation of the flora of tropical and sub-tropical regions fall within the pro- vince of the landscape gardener's art. To design them, or if he merely, as is sometimes the case now, has to instruct au ai'chitect, he ought to know practically the wants of plants under such artificial conditions, and as the improve- ment of the ordinary glass shed with its wood benches and red pots into a beautiful tropical landscape in the case of all large conservatories is a change we may even look for in our own day, so the landscape gardener ought to know the flora of which such miniature landscapes may be composed. Then there is the question of questions for all concerned with gar- dens— their floral embellishment ; is it to be artistic and natural, of materials which we can grow in the open air ? To us it seems clear that the mountains, and hills, and plains, of northern and temperate countries must ever be the main source of interest in the gardens of such countries. These must be our storehouse for material ; these, in a sense, the sources of our right feeling as regards arrangement. There- fore, no man can be a real landscape gardener unless he has a fair knowledge and a love of the flora of these countries, the plant inhabitants of wood and copse, rock and meadow. Here, also, it will be admitted by all those who know anything of the extent and variety of the subject, that he has something to do. Not less needful for him is a certain amount of educational travel, so to say; as his highest duty and pleasure must ever be the planting of beautiful trees so as to allow them to attain fullest vigour and express their highest beauty, he must study them in their own homes to do them justice in our gardens. The character and associations of a tree are not easily understood by those who have not seen it in its native country ; therefore every landscape gardener should see the natural mountain woods of Europe, as well as her forests; should see the rich and varied treasures of the woods in Eastern America; the giant Pines on the great AVestern ran- ges; and take advantage of any other opportunities in his way to see the natural forest and copse vegetation of the noi'thern world. To travel southward would be a benefit, too, but it is not essential. If merely as the best way of noting beautiful or suggestive scenes observed in travel of this kind, the power of sketching faithfully and rapidly should be possessed by every landscape gardener. This, however, is indispensable otherwise in his profession. A clear-headed man who loved his work could not travel in beautiful wooded countries with- out having much precious information photographed also in his mind. Beyond sketching, however, his artistic exhibi- tion should not soar ; it is his privilege to make ever-changing pictures out of Nature's own materials — sky, and trees, and water, and flowers, and Grass ; and if he would not prefer this to painting in pigments, he has no business to be a landscape gardener. But most essential of all for him is garden travel. He ought to know fairly well all that men in his own way have done and are doing. In the United Kingdom years might bo profitably employed in visiting gardens, every one with some feature instructive for the garden artist. Yet bad design has been so prominent in our gardens that good models are most rare. At present it is absolutely necessary to see hundreds of gardens in England before one gets a clear all-round idea of what good design consists. Many places for years praised as models are really examples of what to avoid. But we have to thank accident, diversity of surface, peculiar individual taste, and sometimes what is called neglect, for so neutralising the effort of tlio geometrical designer for ages, and tho peculiarities of bedding out for the past score years, that it is yet possible for the independent mind to distinguish the right from tho wrong path. Every visit paid to a garden makes the path of future effort clearer. Artists and writers throw false glories round places famous for size only, or for miles of clipped trees, or for mere extravagance of expenditure — a visit gives the young and independent observer a wholesome antidote. A good engraving or picture may, by the introduction of artistic touches and variety, give a pleasant impression of a place really devoid of beauty July 1, 1876.] THE GARDEN. o£ any kind, as a visit to many Italian gardens would show. Surely the old French styles, as witnessed at Sceaus; at the Grand Trianon ; at St. Cloud, or what remains of it ; and at Fon- tainebleau, only require to be seen to be for ever laughed at as modes of designing a garden. But the modern gardens in France, such as parts of Vincennes, the English garden in the little Trianon, and many other gardens in France and on the Continent, deserve both study and praise. Then again some of the public gardens and cemeteries in America, notably those designed by Mr. Olmsted himself, should be seen by the student of landscape gardening ; nothing will profit him more. In each country also travel is needed as a guide to judicious planting. Even in a small country like Britaui there is an immense amount of wasted energy, owing to ignorance of the trees that will really thrive in any given district. No fairly instructed landscape gardener would, for example, plant trees where they are certain never to attain maturity — a common thing, however, now-a-days. An English landscape gardener would, for example, be the better for seeing the Moutery Pine near the sea at Bicton as much at home as on the coast hills of the Pacific ; but he ought also to see it shrivelled up in some midland garden before commencing his planting operations in earnest. Then, to come to more prosaic things, our fairly educated landscape gardener has, as the mere elements of his art, to know all about ground-work, surveying, &c. — the engineering part of the work, as Mr. Olmsted terms it — ground-work, as we call it, he ought to be master of, for there is much loss of labour and needless expense in carrying out improvements, and making changes from loss of time in this respect. Then the design of the kitchen and forcing gardens falls to his lot, and he certainly ought to know and to feel the wants of the worker in these departments, that he may meet him with all the help of modern appliances and knowledge. If our young landscape gardener get so far, if he really should, in the maturity of his powers, practise wisely what he has leamt in so many fields, he may study chemistry, or any other occupa- tion which sufiices to absorb the energies of so many earnest and able men wholly devoted to it ; but in all seriousness, he would be foolish to do so. We have too much amateur work ; too many " jacks of all trades ; " too much of that state of mind which accepts and follows blindly, and therefore per- petuates any folly handed down to us, without reasoning, because really uninstructed in the subject — too many lives wasted in trying to know and do a little of everything, lives lost without advancing their own profession, or any other branch of human knowledge one jot. W. E. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Haudy Flowbks in que Public Gakdens. — The revolution in taste as regards hardy flowers during the past few years is one of the moat remarkable and healthy signs ever witnessed in our horticulture. We regret to see that the change is not so fully shown in public as in private gardens. ;,The collections at Kew and at the Regent's Park are not improving. Some say they have gone back. In neither of these places has any attempt been made to show the numerous beautiful hardy flowers of northern dimes in any but the botanical arrangement. We trust the authorities at Kew will soon alter this state of things, as the garden has many advantages as regards soil, facilities for obtaining plants, extent, &o. Nothing would give a more healthy stimulus to the improvement that is being wrought in this way than the culture of many of the finer plants at Kew otherwise than in the botanical arrangement; that, of course, should not be interfered with, but tastefully-arranged groups and masses of the finer things here and there in the other parts of the garden, and even in the shrubbery borders, would be a great improvement. 1 ! Flowers for the Children.— For the sake of children have plenty of flowers around your homes. Plant enough so that it may be no sin for the little ones to gather large handfnls and make playfellows of them. One little girl, not four years old then, used to ask me for Pansies before she was dressed iu the morning, every day for weeks, last summer. She could hardly count the fingers on one hand, but I used to let her run out before breakfast and gather three or four Pansies. Several times again through the day, she could have as many more, and they all personated characters to her imagination. Other flowers figured also in these plays, but I do not wonder that the smiling Pansy-faces were most attractive. Children should have their own flower- beds as early as possible, and many half-waste places might be made to blossom like the Eooe for their sakes, with but little labour.— FaiihBoobbsieb The New Volume of "The Gaeden." — Many persons failed in large obtaining complete sets of The Garden for the present year — a reserve of stock laid by for this purpose having been exhausted some months ago. The publisher desires, therefore, to state that the Ninth Volume of The Gaeden will shortly be published, with complete index and all the coloured plates that have appeared during the half year, which closed with last week's iasae. The Fiee-teee in Devonshiee. — -Mr. Luscombe sends ns, from Combe Royal, South Devon, branches aflame with the brilliant flowers of this tree. We used to call it a bush, but the branches sent are some of the topmost on the *' trees " at Combe Royal. '* The weather," Mr. Luscombe writes, " here has been most peculiar, frosts through all the month of May and through part of June, almost unheard of before with us. Many things, of course, are injured — all retarded." Therefore this marvellously beautiful tree would not seem to be very tender. St. Michael's Pines in Summee. — These, contrary to expectation, are now abundant in the London market. This is owing to new steam communication with the island, which enables the fruit to be sent in snmmer. We need hardly add that English Pine growing must be greatly influenced by these summer importations, and our own growers should take note of it in time. Lychnis Lagascje as a Bokdee Flowee. — This brilliant and dwarf plant which we have for half-a-dozen years past admired as one of the gems of the rock-garden, seems to thrive freely as a border plant. There is a strong spreading specimen in the mixed border at Chiswiok, where it has lived for two years or more. It is still in Moss AND Peovence Roses. — Whatever way fashion may vary as to flowers in our gardens, there is always a demand for Moss Roses in June, and at present one of the most attractive sights iu the flower-markets are the bunches, and baskets, and piles of Moss Roses, which are grown in many of the market gardens round London. Several kinds are grown — the white, though not common, and two or three reds. The old Provence Roses are also plentiful, the bunches of the White Provence being very beautiful. Sweet Williams. — Mr. A. Dean, of Bedfont, sends ns specimens of a well-marked and showy race of single Sweet Williams, some of which we should like to have engraved, if by that process one could give any idea of their bright colours and beauty. The best way, how- ever, of illustrating such subjects is to grow them in our gardens. Those who, like Mr. Dean, select and preserve good " strains " of our hardy popular flowers, do good service. Miss Hope's richly-coloured and dwarf double Sweet William is very fine iu London nurseries now, and it deserves to be well known. The Maeiposa Lilies 4s Cut Flowees. — We have so long con. sidered these plants as somewhat delicate and fragile, owing to seeing them till recently represented by very poor specimens, that we are agreeably surprised at finding they keep for a considerable time in water and open their large, gay, yet delicately-marked blooms freely. Mr. Atkins, of Painswick, sends us a fine yellow Caloohortus, like the C. venustns figured in The Gaeden, but of the most dazzling yellow with brownish-crimson peneillings and markings. London Commons and Open Spaces. — It is high time some authority interfered to prevent the noisy and sometimes disgraceful scenes that too frequently now take place on these. Clapham Common is an example, the bathing here ;quite near the open road being particularly offensive just now. It would be easy to arrange bathing places in all our large parks and open spaces, so that nothing of this sort need occur, but improvement in the essential requisite of park bathing places drags along so slowly that one cannot be hopeful in this respect at present ; yet surely there is nothing which large parks could bestow on the inhabitants of great cities more precious than decent bathing places, ^curtained by a dense shrubbery from the frequented parts. Japanese Gaeden at Alexandea Palace. — Probably few of our readers are aware that a Japanese garden, made by a Japanese gar. doner, exists at Alexandra Park— that curious hybrid between shop, theatre, and race-ground. This Japanese garden was originaUy set up at the Vienna Exhibition, and was bought by the Alexandra Park Company at very great expense. There are a few Japanese shrubs in the garden, a good many beautiful stones for the rock-garden arranged in the grassy banks with some taste, and nothing more so far as gardening is concerned. A more useless feature as an adjunct to the Palace it would be difficult to produce, even at great cost. By the way, what a noble Japanese garden could be made by worthily representing the rich garden flora of Japan ! 4 THE GARDEN. [July 1, 1876 STRIKING CUTTINGS IN SAND AND "WATER. I MUST admit that I failed in my first attempt, some thirteen years ago, to strike cuttings in this way (see p. 593, Vol. IX.) ; since then, however, I have repeated the experiment and have succeeded ; surely, therefore, it would be wrong to consign such a system to oblivion ; I, for one, will not do so, although I like the manure frame for many things — " but not in the month of February ! " I well remember the first batch of cuttings which I propagated in the corner of a Melon frame ; they consisted of Dahlias, whose names were — picta, formo- sissima, Lord Liverpool, Lady Kinnaird, Zebra, and Dodd's Mary. These were struck in soil and sand, and seemed at home in the heat of the frame, and up to the present day I do not know a better place in which to propagate Dahlias than a common manure frame. Let ns now advert to the water system, or rather the water and sand system. In my first attempt failure took place in two ways : — I used too much water, and my cuttings were not in a proper state for being struck in that way. In order to succeed under the sand and water sys- tem, use a common garden saucer, silver or clean-washed sand, and give plenty of light, and 70" or 80° of heat ; let the saucers be three parts filled with sand, and then filled up with water ; our practice is to take a barrowful of saucers to the sand-heap, and fill them, afterwards arranging them side by side in the propagating house, or in any con. venient place near the glass possessing the above temperature. The sand in the saucers being soft, the tender cutting requires no making ; it is easily put into the sand by means of the finger and thumb, and as the sand naturally clings to it, it soon emits roots. Hard-wooded cuttings in a tender state may be propagated in the same way as Boft-wooded ones. Some years ago when the Golden Fleece Pelargo- nium came out, I got six small plants of it in July, and continued to strike them in sand and water until next bedding time, when I had nearly 2O0O plants. All tender cuttings may be propagated in heat in sand and water, with greater success, and with much more com. fort to the propagator, than in any other way. To put tender cuttings into a manure frame in the month of February is by no means good practice. J. Miller, Clumher. Bust on Grapes (see p. 605).— Rust is doubtless often caused through houses being allowed to get overheated either by the influence of fire, or sun, or both ; therefore it may easily be caused by too early closing on cloudy days, i.e., if the sun come out powerfully afterwards; but the chief cause is not too early closing, but too late opening. It often happens in early spring, when cold, easterly winds are .prevalent, and the sun only shines at intervals, that many people are apt to defer opening too long in the morning, and so allow the temperature to rise too high previous to air being admitted. Then, in order to rectify this evil, a worse one is resorted to, viz., that of opening the lights too widely at once, and admitting a sudden draught of cold, cutting air, and should the sun soon afterwards disappear, the temperature is suddenly lowered to an alarming degree, thus causing a chock to the growth of the young and tender fruit. I never remember seeing much rust on late Grapes, nor on those out-of-doors.— C. W. S. The Tree Kniphofia (K. caulescens).— Mr. Atkins, of Painswiok, writes to ns as follows respecting this Kniphofia, which he regards as ono of the gr.andest herbaceous plants wo have:— In speaking of the specimen of it at Kew (see p. 563, vol. IX.), the flowers are said to be large and ornamental, though perhaps not quite so showy as somo of the old Flame-flowers : now the plant at Kew, being old and sadly in want of renovation, is not a fair criterion by which to jndge the merits of this Kniphofia : if you saw it in a vigorous state you would, I believe, alter your opinion, and pronounce it to be one of the most efEcctivo and noble of herbaceous plants. I have now a fine specimen of it in bloom ; it st.inds between 5 ft. and 6 ft. high, terminating with two flower.spikes, the upper portion of which is rich orange- crimson, and the lower half a clear, bright yellow ; it is altogether one of the most striking plants with which I am acr|uaiiiled. It is generally considered difficult of propagation, but I believe I shall master it. Philadelphia Exhibition.— The Horticultural Hall hero is insnnicientiy ventilated, and therotoro its utility is much impaired. Tho grounds occapv a flno natural position, and Imd they been well laid out— ivliich thoy are nit— they would have looked well. Mr. Marnnok, for in«tanco, would have left them a perfect Paradise. Thoy are beautifully undulated, and contain a pretty stream v! water, which might have been utilised with advantage ; the beds 1 regret to say. are badly arrangod, and tho walks are too numerous and narrow and posses.s no grace. Kirory whoro one moots with scarlet and pink, supplied by Pelargoniums, only a few yellow Calceolarias being ro(|Ulred to have com- pletod a liur representation of a Cockney garden. Had a few of the English and American nurserymen not combined to improve matters, there would not nave boon a good bed m tho grounds.— W. H. HARDY FLOWERS OF THE "WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. Among other hardy bulbous-rooted plants now in bloom are many varieties of the red Lilies belonging to the L. dauricum, L. elegaus, and L. Thuubergianum types. These occur in Mr. Barr's grounds at Tooting; one variety oE L. Thun- bergianum, named alutaoeum, is remarkably distinct ; it bears solitary, erect, cup-shaped flovrers of a clear buff colour, on short, stout, leafy stems, rarely more than 6 in. in height. It is one of the many seminal varieties of this race raised by Japanese cultivators, and it is by far the most distinct that wo have hitherto seen. The earliest of the American Lilies appears to be L. canadense and its varieties, several of which are just now opening their first flowers. We have seen both pale yellow and deep orange forms of L. canadense, together with the distinct small-flowered form, known as L. canadense parvum, which bears flowers little more than an inch in diameter, and the perianth-lobes are less reflexed than in L. canadense, properly so called. It is diSicult to imagine any- thing more beautiful than the many differently tinted forms of English and Spanish Iris, which have opened their flowers during the past few weeks. The prevailing colours are white, blue, lilac, purple, orange, and brown, but these are blended into an infinite variety of shades and hues, and some of the best Dutch seedhngs have broad, stout petals, reminding one more of the gorgeous New Grenadian Cattleyas than of any- thing else to which they can be compared. Oruithogalum pyramidale is now very pretty, especially in bright sunshine, when every one of its spire-like flower-spikes is a mass of silvery, star-like blossoms. TriteleiaMurrayana, a dark purple, later-flowered kind than the better known T. uniflora, is like- wise just now very pretty, as are also many of the Alliums and the crimson-purple Gladiolus byzantinus, which, together with many species of Ixias, Sparaxis, and Babianas, has withstood the winter in raised beds at Tooting, and all are now blooming freely. It has been thought that Cape bulbs, of which Ixias and Sparaxis may be taken as types, caunot be grown as hardy plants in this country ; but that is a mistake, inasmuch as they succeed perfectly on well-drained, raised beds, and that, too, in a very bleak and exposed situation. The brilliant scarlet Tritonia crocata is now blooming freely in several London gardens, its slender spikes of flowers being very effective. It is to be regretted that Alstrce- merias are so much neglected as they are in gardens. We .saw a large bed|of A. anrea and A. psittacina the other day in full flower, and, although nearly smothered among Nettles, they had a fine appearance ; beside them various mixed forms of Hemerocallis — orange, yellow, and red — were just beginning to open their Lily-like flowers. The Yellow Asphodel (Aspho- delus luteus) is still a conspicuous object in many suburban gardens, notwithstanding that its first flowers were expanded quite a month ago. Lathyrus rotundifolius is a peculiarly valuable Everlasting Pea, rather dwarfer than the common kind, but with showy, brick-red flowers and [good habit. L. calitornicus bears delicate lilac and white flowers, but is scarcely well marked enough for garden culture. The common Willow Herb is the most showy flower of tho season, especially when seen in distant masses. It is, of course, only suitable for rough places, where its rampant roots may do no injury, aud where it may not be feared as a weed. The white form is a desirable addition. Tho Large Seakale (Crambo cordifolia) is a noble hardy herb, with myriads of small white blossoms ; it is an excellent plant for the wild garden. Anemone pennsyl- vanica, though not a showy species, is a valuable one, its white flowers being produced for a long time in early summer. They are all tho more pleasing for not coming in crowds. This also is a good plant for naturalisation. The French Honeysuckle (Hedysarum coronariura) is an interesting old plant seldom seen, and now showily in bloom. Calochortus venustus, figured in The Garden (plate VI.), from a drawing by Mrs. Duffield, is full of flowers at Ware's Nurseries, tho blooms as fine as those seen on its native hills ; so is another brilliant Califoruian plant, Brodia^a coccinea ; also scver.al very interest- ing Alliums — A. lactoum, A. californicura, and A. acuminatum. The showy and vigorous Orchis foliosa is now in flower; in the Hale Farm Nurseries there are several hundred plants of it. July 1, 1876.] THE GARDEN. Foxglove Gladiolus (G. commimis Yellow Gentlana (G. lutea) . Officinal Goat's-rue (Galega officinalis) French Honeysuckle (Hedysarum coronarium). English Iris (I. xiphioiaes) . Caucasian Scabious (Scahiosa caucasica). Goat's-beara Spirsa (S. Aroncus) . 2D - - '^ll^fi^f^ Heart-leaved Crambo (0. cordif olia) . i- mi Showy Fleabane (Erigeron speciosnm). SOME HARDY FLOWEES OP THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. Double-flowered Dropwort (Spircea Filipendulafl.-pl.). THE GARDEN. [Jul? 1, 1876. EDGINGS FOR WALKS AND FLOWER-BEDS. A GREAT variety of plants may Ijs and are used for edgings according to taste and their adaptability, wtiile, where utility is of more importance than ornament, dead edgings of stone, slate, or other materials are employed. Let lis speak of living edgings first. Of these the most common is Box, though it is far less used now than formerly, owing to the labour entailed in keeping it, and because many other and more accommodating subjects have taken its place. Where exactness and formality of design have to be adhered to, there is perhaps nothing to equal IJox, provided the often-occurring blanks are made up regularly and it is kept in good order by the shears, for a neg- lected Box edging sadly mars the appearance of a garden, and those who cannot afford the expense of keeping it as it should be should dispense with it altogether. In a kitchen garden, wnere the productions are measured by a debtor and creditor account, such an edging for the walks is altogether out of place ; yet in hundreds of large gardens it is laid down by the mile, crops are neglected that it may be attended to, and weeks and weeks are spent annually in trimming it ; indeed, it is the most expensive item in that department. The treatment of a Box edging is simple if it is well laid out at first, and this is a work of difficulty to some. The gi'ound should first be made up to the required height, which is usually the level of the walk or border, and in doing so the soil must be trodden firmly with the feet, and afterwards made flat and even with the back of a spade guided by a tightly-stretched line. This being done, the line should be pegged down, whether the edging be straight or curved, exactly where the Box has to be laid, and a perpendicular trench, about 6 in. deep, cut out, keeping the back of the spade to the line cutting on the walk side, and taking care that the edge of the bed or border is left intact, which will depend upon whether the soil has been previously trodden well or not ; but without a clean and straight-cut edge, Box cannot be laid well. Have the Box split up into thin pieces 5 in. or 6 in. long, with roots to each ready for use, and lay it thinly and regularly along the trench, keeping the tops about 1^ in. above the walk ; and holding the pieces securely against the firm edge of soil with the back of the left hand, till you have packed as far as the finger ends, fill in with the right, pressing the soil firmly to the roots. Then move on another hand's length, and so on till all is finished, and leave all levelling up and watering till the last. Box should be laid just before it begins to grow in spring, or in September or October, and it should be out in June. A good substitute for Box is Ivy, and the variety called Hedei-a maoulata is the best, being variegated, and just sufli- ciently free-growing to furnish well. We have some hundreds of yards of it laid down here, and very bright and ornamental it is, and it can be kept with about a tenth of the labour re- quired by Box, or less, while blanks never occur in it. The plants were struck one autumn, jjlanted out the following year a yard apart, pegging a limb each way, and we had an edging at once. It is used chiefly in the kitchen garden, and the only keeping it gets is the cutting off of straggling shoots with the spado or hoe when the borders are cleaned, and the shearing of it down to a bare thin line in April ; after that it puts forth fresh green foliage, looking like a wreath, and far surpasses Box in appearance. For encircling flower-beds, or for division lines, it is excellent, and it can be kept as trim and e.xact as desired with little trouble, while there is no stiffness of outline about it. Among other edgings of the shrubbery class is the common Bilberry or Blaeberry (Vaccinium Myrtillus). In a tastefully laid-out garden, where some of the beds were edged with various kinds of shrubs, the Bilberry was one, and it grew well, although it was clipped like Box. It likes a peaty soil, but grows well enough on a rather dry loam, and leaf-mould suits and promotes its growth. In the garden above alluded to neat edgings of Oak wore also a feature ; though leafless in winter, it had a good effect in summer, and was kept low by being occasionally pruned. The Common Heath (Erica vulgaris) is an accommodating subject for an edging, but peat or leaf-mould should be added to the soil in which it grows. In some gardens it is used for scroll and pattern work, and lasts long in spite of constant clipping. Both Yew and Laurel make good edgings, and are adapted for flower gardens where edgings are used. ]3oth furnish well, and retain their density for a long while, especially the Yew, of which there arc edgings here that have lasted for twenty j-ears, and, though always kept down to a height of t) in. or there- abouts, they are yet as stiff and dense as a cushion. In forming edgings of either of the above, neat small plants should be planted in November, or March or April, setting them thickl3' together, and close upon the surface of the soil. Afterwards they may be trained into shape — angular, round, or square — and about midsummer, when they have grown and filled up, another trimming will make them more perfect. Such edgings are usually trimmed once or twice during the summer, ifany other trees and shrubs might bo used for edgings, their adaptability for such a purpose being judged by their habit. No doubt the close-growing habit of the Box and Yew first suggested their usefulness in this respect ; but these qualities are by no means essential to a good edging, for, by clipping and pruning it can always be made almost anything one likes. Next to shrubs come Alpine and herbaceous plants, some of which make good edgings. Among the best are Double Daisies, Saxifrages, Thrift, Arabis, Phlox procumbens (a beautiful plant when in flower, and neat). Auriculas, Primroses, Czar Violet, Gentian, Lithospermum prostratum. Forget-me-nots, and others. All these are com- mon, and easily and speedily propagated by division, except the Lithospermum, which strikes freely from cuttings out- doors. They should be planted in thin lines, for they soon spread, and periodically they should be lifted, divided, and re- planted. Hardly enough is made of these kind of plants as edgings. The crimson and white double Daisies, for example, are perfectly charming for a long while in early summer, and they increase so fast, and are so easily grown, as to come within the reach of every one. In a '" Lady Corisande's " gar- den any or all of the above would be appropriate, and they have the recommendation of being all perfectly hardy, and needing little attention. Let ns now advert to dead edgings. In the flower garden these are inadmissible, unless on the parterre, and then they must be of stone, and in keeping with the other architectural adjuncts of the situation; but in the kitchen garden they are the most useful — not that edgings can be considered indis- pensable in that department, for the less extensive they arc the better; but along the principal walks, which usually com- municate with the dressed grounds, and which as often as otherwise ai-e backed by flower borders or fruit trees, some kind of division is required. Besides, many small proprietors like to have their kitchen-garden walks trim for other reasons, and dead edgings are very commonly used, because they give little trouble and do not harbour vermin. Burnt tiles with a bead on the top are often used for the purpose, because they are easily procured and cheap ; but they are useless, for the frost breaks them up in a couple of years unless they arc very hard bui'ut, and then they are not often straight. A thin kind of tile, made of fireclay and glazed, is also used, and is better, but, as a rule, all the burnt cla}' edgings are to bo sus- pected. Terra-cotta does stand fairly, but it is expensive. Stout blue slate, with sawn edges, is the neatest and most enduring; this, too, is expensive at first, but its great lasting properties are a compensation, and it can be had in long lengths, and is easily laid. Where stone is abundant it is excellent for edgings, if tolerably hard. In all quarries there is generally a quantity of refuse which might be used for such purposes. If they are about the same thickness — and they are generally pretty uniform in this respect — pieces of all shapes and sizes may be used, and in laying them down do the same as masons do when building a rough-hewn wall : take the pieces as they come, and stick them in close together, keeping the tops just above the ground-line. When finished a rustic edging will bo the result, but it will look just as well as any other made of more costly materials, and bo a great deal cheaper. The late Mr. Charles M'Intosh, author of tho " Book of the Garden," had the edges of the walks in some parts of tho extensive kitchen gardens at Dalkeith laid simply with oblong water-worn stones from the river-bed. The stones were all selected about tho same size, tolerably heavy, and were laid end for end along the walk side ; and well they served their purpose, which was simply to keep a clear division between the soil and the road. Moreover they always looked JuLT 1, 1876.] THE GARDEN. clean and trim, required no keeping, and the stones were easily replaced if they happened to be dislodged. A single row of stones is sufficient; but, if an even outline be desired, smaller stones placed in the corners and spaces between the large ones where these occur, will effect that object. Of the manufactured tile edgings the most enduring consist of slabs of pressed asphalte, in pieces 3 ft. long and U in. thick, made plain or ornamental as desired. We have had them in use for about ten years, and not one has given way in the least. They are, however, rather expensive, costing about 8d. a yard. In the more frequented alleys of the kitchen garden, where edgings are desired, vegetables themselves may be employed ; a border of Parsley, for example, is neat enough and green enough ; then there are Kidney Beans, Beet, Endive, and Lettuce. Edgings of any kind always, however, entail extra work ; and in kitchen garden by-walks they are not at all necessary. — " Field." Palmate Saxifrages. — I was much pleased to see the notice by " Salmoniceps " of Saxifraga geranioidea (see p. 561, Vol. IX). There is no doubt the one alluded to is the true S. geranioides, con- founded with or erroneously called S. paniculata and S. ladanifera, a fine plant, but certainly not the finest of the section, the flowers of which are the most beautiful among all white-flowered kinds. A miniature one in this group, and a charming one, is S. ceratophylla, a globular little bush, covered with panicles of flowers of snowy whiteness, and ivory -like texture ; but by far the handsomest of the section is S. ajug^folia, which forms a dense, low-growing cushion of beautiful, rather rigid foliage, covered with silvery panicles of snowy flowers which are thrown out of the plant at every possible angle, giving it a most elaborate, tied-out appearance. — Thomas Williams, Bath Lodge, Ormshirk. Prickly Bindweed (Smilax aspera). — In reply to an inquiry recently made (seep. 467, Vol. IX.) with regai'd to an evergreen climber with scarlet bei ries, found on the shores of the Mediterranean, the following fact may confirm the correctness of its having been called Smilax. In the valuable and unique work of the distinguished Mary Granville (Mrs. Delany) consisting of ten vols., and containing 100 plants in each vol., a plant, entitled Smilax aspsra, or Rough Prickly Bindweed, exactly coincides in appearance with the descrip. tion of the evergreen creeper enquired after. The specimen alluded to was gathered when in flower, the flowers being greenish. white, and very minute. The coloured plate in question is dated 1778, and was made from a specimen in the collection of plants formed and main- tained by the Duchess of Bulstrode. The work mentioned above contains numbers of wild Cowers with the Latin, and, in most oases, the English names attached to them, and among them — one of the most beautiful — is a very small Tulip, entitled Tulipa sylvestris. The petals of this are very much pointed, and white-tipped, and edged with crimson and yellow. — Ll. Autunan-sown Animals. — Autumn. sown annuals are now in great beauty. As has been repeatedly recorded in your columns, the only way to grow hardy annuals to perfection is to sow in August or September, protect slightly through the winter, and transplant into their proper places very early in the spring ; (3r, where possible, sow in the places they are to occupy, and thin well out. This last operation is indispensable. A single plant of Nemophila thus treated will, at this season, occupy a square yard of ground, and be covered with blossom — and such blossom ! I enclose one or two specimen heads of N. maoulata, which will compare favourably with Nemophila sown in the ordinary crowded patches. [The blooms received were remarkably large and fine. — Ed.]. Leptosiphon roseus, sown last August, is now a mass of clear rose. There is a bed here of Spanish Iris and Gladiolus mixed, carpeted with the Leptosiphon, which makes a wonderful bit of colour. The annual will last till the Gladiolus flowers. We too seldom see combinations of this sort, but it is one of the best modes of employing annuals of the lowly stature and compact growth of the Leptosiphon. — Salmoniceps. The Immortelle Plant. — The Immortelle Plant (Helichrysum orientale), a native of Asia, has been known in Europe since 1629. Its flowers the symbols of friendship, or tribute to talent and genius, serve to make the garlands of Immortelles which ornament the tombs of the dead in various countries. It is cultivated in France, in the communes of Lower Provence, where the soil slopes towards the Mediterranean. It blossoms about the month of June. It suffers from heavy and continuous rains, and only vegetates well on light, permeable soils. It is propagated by offsets, which are separated from the old stocks. The gathering of the flowers is made in the first days of June, before the bursting of the buds. As the flowers, which are insufficiently formed or too fall blown, are rejected by the trade, it is important not to cut either too soon or too late. The collection is made by women, who tie them in small bundles, which are ordinarily dried on the walls of the enclosure. Finally, young girls are employed to remove the down which covers the ramifioa. tions. A kilogramme (nearly 2i lbs.) of these plants contains about 400 stems, each containing about twenty flowers. Each growing tuft of Immortelles produces sixty or seventy stems. A hectare (2J acres) will contain 40,000 tufts, producing annually 2,400,000 to 2,800,000 stems, yielding 5^- to 6i tons in weight. This pretty plant is the true Everlasting-flower, and is quite hardy on all of our soils. It is also a good rock.plant. "Wild Gardening.— This is beginning to engage the atten. tion of all lovers of natural beauty, apart from the formal style which has been so much in fashion of late years. Although in most places of any extent there are wild or natural spots known as the wilderness, the maze, &c., yet none of these with which I am acquainted contains all the features necessary to make up a really good wild garden. For several months readers of the The Gakden have had their attention directed to this subject, as week after week the beautiful woodcut representations of our hardy flowers have been given ; the wealth of floral beauty that we possess in that way is really marvellous. Those who have seen much of our wilds and woodlands can conjecture what a wild garden would be like, com. posed of even native flowers; much higher must the beautv of such a garden be if we select as we may from the beautiful hardy flowers that inhabit other cold countries too. Many spend large sums anuu. ally upon the labour and decoration of their gardens, and yet their beauty in many cases is but transitory and uncertain com. pared with that of a wild garden, in which our native plants and hardy flowers from other lands combine to make a perennial floral feast. It is not to be supposed that a subject of this kind will at once become fashionable, but there is abundant evidence that in many gardens a simpler and more natural taste is displaying itself, and I am sure that every cultivator will hail with delight the advent of some such change. — J. Thompson, Shawdon, Almvich, NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FLOWEE GARDEN. The Golden Columbine (Aquilegia chrysantaa) .— This is now flowering with m e for the first time, and is so really good and siiiptoii Street, Covert Garden, L. ondon . W C PASSIFLORA(TACSDNIA) JNSIGNIS. JcLX 1, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 13 widely dispersed in Tropical and Sub.tropioal America, and includes the P. Wavei of Nuttall. It has become naturalised in India and other countries. ft Flowers with petals, Involucral hracts iiphmately cUvided into slender segments. 5, Latticed Passion-flower (P. olathrata; PI. Brasil- ienaia, t. 110). — An erect shrub clothed with long yellow hairs. Tendrils absent. Leaves ovate, entire, on short petioles. Flowers purple, less than 2 in. in diameter, borne on stalks about an inch in length, and subtended by a finely-divided lattice-like involucre in the way of P. fcetida. A native of Brazil, not in cultivation, and merely mentioned here on account of its distinct habit. 6. Foetid Passion-flower (P. foetida). — Taken in its widest sense, this elegant, though not very showy, climbing species includes several distinct forms from a horticultural point of view ; all of them possessing the characteristic of an involucre as large as the flower, or even exceeding it, and cut up into numerous thread-like segments ; and the leaves, when crushed, exhale an unpleasant odour. Miller describes two varieties as being in cultivation in 1731, under the names Granadilliflnre alho, fructus reticulata ; and G. fcetida, folio trimsriide villosojiore purjntreo variegato. The latter, he says, was commonly cultivated as a^tove annual under the name of Love-in-a- mist, a name given to it by the inhabitants of Barbadoes ; perhaps because there is a general resemblance between this and the European Nigella damascena. Among the varieties in cultivation, or having been in cultivation, of which there are figures, the following may be mentioned in the order in which they were introduced : — P. ciliata (Bot. Mag. t. 288) was introduced by a Mr. Norman from the "West Indies in 1783. It has deeply three-lobed leaves, rose-pink-faced petals, violet-tipped coronet-threads and yellow anthers and filaments, the latter spotted with red, according to Curtis. This pretty variety was common in London gardens in 179Ji. The second form is called P. gossypifolia (Bot. Mag. t. 2619). As the name indicates it has three-lobed, soft downy leaves, similar to those of the Cotton Plant. The flowers are white, or with a faint tinge of blue, like milk and water, and the anthers are yellow. The figure in the " Botanical Magazine" represents this as having an oblong, green fruit, enveloped in the persistent much-divided involucre. It was intro. duced about the year 1828. P. nigelliflora (Bet. Mag. t. 3635) is a third variety, havingfive.lobed, deeply and irregularly toothed leaves, cordate at the base, and a glandular very highly developed involucre. The flowers are white or greenish-white, with the exception of the purple-tipped coronet-threads. This was discovered in 1835 by Mr. Tweedie, on his way from Mendoza to Tucuman, and it flowered in the Glasgow Garden in 1838. The flowers of all the varieties are very ephemeral, often falling before mid. day, but a succession is kept up for a long period. ttt Flowers with petals ; hracts, sviiall, free. 7. Six-flowered Passion-flower (P. sexSora). [Synonym — P. floribunda, Flore des Serres, iv., p. 335]. — A perennial climber with pubescent, membranous, broad, three-lobed leaves, cordate at base ; lateral lobes directed outwards, 3 in. to 5 in. from tip to tip, rather longer than the intermediate one, the principal nerve of all of them running out into a small bristle. Flowers abundant, yel. lowish-white, less than 1 in. in diameter, and usually not exceeding half an inch, clustered on short stalks in the axils of the leaves. Fruit about the size of a large Pea. This not very showy species is a native of the West Indies and Tropical America, and was first culti- vated in this country in 1826. It is remarkable in the shape of its 8. Large-glanded Passion-flower (P. auriculatai P. appendiculata). — A perennial climber with somewhat coriaceous, when mature, ovate-cordate, or oblong, acute leaves, glabrous, usually with two very small lateral lobes, or indications of lobes above the middle, and a few large, circular, immersed glands on the under surface ; petiole usually less than an inch long, furnished with two rather large, ear.like glands below the middle. Flowers about an inch in diameter, greenish or yellowish white with violet-tipped coronet-threads, borne in pairs or solitary in the axils of the leaves on stalks less than an inch in length. A native of the West Indies and Tropical America, introduced in 1820. The glandular appen. dages of the petioles are unusually large in this species. 9. Half-leaved Passion-flower (P. truncata ; Regel, Gar. tenflora, viii. t. 276). — A slightly hairy, perennial climber with angular branches, half circular leaves, and small white-green flowers, having a yellow coronet. This species has a very singular leaf, which is usually so decidedly truncate at the apex as to present the appear, anoe of having been cut asunder; sometimes, however, it is very obscurely three-lobed. Introduced from Brazil by Riedel, and culti. vated in the Botanic Garden at St. Petersburgh in 1859. 10. Tuberous Passion-flower (P. tuberosa; Bot. Eeg. t. 432). [Synonym— P. punctata, Bot. Cab. 191, not of others].— A tuberous.rooted species with glabrous, angular stems, and glabrous leaves, 4 in. to 6 in. long, furnished with immersed, circular glands beneath.dividedabouttwo-thirds of the way downinto twoequal, nearly erect or slightly spreading lobes ; lobes oblong, obtuse or lanceolate and acute; sinus between the lobes narrow or open, usually ap. preaching in shape the outline of the lobes. Flowers^ usually two together on stalks about an inch long, about 2 in. iu diameter, greenish-white, the coronet variegated with white and purple. A native of the West Indies and tropical America, introduced in 1810. It is not of a highly ornamental character. 11. Bounded-leaved Passion-flower (P. rotundifolia).— A hairy climber with slightly angular stems. Leaves 2 in. to 3 in, broad and long, rounded at the base nearly truncate at the apex or terminating in three very short, broad, rounded lobes, eventually glabrous above, pubescent beneath ; petioles usually less than an inch long in dried specimens. Flowers very small, yellowish-green. Fruit about the size of a large Pea. This is one of the least orna- mental species in cultivation. It is a native of Brazil and the West Indies, and was cultivated as long ago as 1779, by J. Blackburne, Esq., on the authority of Alton's "Hortus Kewensis." 12. Silky - flowered Passion-flower (P. holoaericea ; Bot. Mag., t. 2015 ; Bot. Reg., t. 59).— A hairy climber with slender terete stems, and nearly oval, three-lobed, soft hairy leaves, 3 in. to 4 in. long; lobes rounded, the prin- cipal nerve running out in a short bristle, lateral ones much shorter than the central, or sometimes almost obsolete ; blade some- times auricled at the base ; petiole an inch or more iu length fur. nished with two large glands above the middle. Flowers hairy outside, borne in shortly pedunculate cymes of three to six, about li iu. in diameter; sepals and petals similar, rounded, white^ or greenish-white; coronet-threads about two-thirds as long, bright yellow at the tips, reddish purple at the base. This, though not a splendid species, is very pretty and succeeds in a greenhouse. It is a native of Mexico, and was introduced by Dr. W. Houston before 1733. It is rarely seen in gardens now that so many mnch handsomer species are known. 13. Throe-banded Passion-flower (P. trifasciata; lUua. Hort.,t. 514). — This species was introduced by Baraquin iu 1867, and is pretty well known on account of the ornamental character of its coloured three-lobed leaves, each lobe being traversed by a rich red feather or band. The flowers are small and comparatively incon. spicuous, said to be a native of North Brazil, and thrives well in a warm greenhouse. 14. Lesser Bat-leaved Passion-flower (P. Vespertilio).— This singular species approaches P. coriacea in the_ shape of its leaves, which present some resemblance to a bat with outspread wings. In some of the varieties they are perhaps more like a butter- fly. The typical form has nearly triangular, slightly coriaceous leaves, rounded at the base, where there are two large, dark-coloured, eye-like, immersed glands on the upper surface, the apex of the leaf forming the base of the triangle, with very acute angles. Sometimes there is a very small, tail-like, central lobe produced, but, as already observed, the outline of the leaf is subject to considerable variation. The small, greenish flowers of this species expand late in the evening and close early, not to re-open, on the following morning. This remarkable species deserves a place in the hot-houses of lovers ot strange forms. It is a native of the West Indies and Tropical America, and appears to have been first cultivated in this country by Dr. J. Sherard in his famous garden at Bltham. He obtained it from Holland, and there is a good figure of it in Dillenius's magmfacent work " Hortus Elthamensis," published in 1732, where it bears the name of Granadilla bicornis. 15. Red-tinged Passion-flower (P. rubra; Bot. Reg. t. 95). — This species also has very variable leaves, something after the plan of those of the last, but in this they are clothed with soft hairs, when young at least on both surfaces ; they are distinctly cordate at the base, and the lateral lobes take a more upward direction. The central lobe is much smaller than the lateral, and often quite obsolete, with the exception of the bristle point terminating the midrib. The figure quoted above represents the stems, petioles, tendrils, and nerves of the leaf on the under surface of a reddish tinge. The flowers are about IJ in. in diameter, on a stalk from 1 in. to 2 in. long ; sepals and petals similar, greenish-white, slightly tinged with red ; coronet-threads about two-thirds the length of the petals, red, deepening to crimson in the centre ; style branches red, anthers and stigmas yellow. This species is a native of the West Indies, and was in cultivation in this country previous to 1731. It is one of the species described by Miller in the first edition of his " Dictionary." 14 THE GARDEN. [July 1, 1876. 16. Graham's Passion-flower (P. capanlaris; Bot. Mag. t. 28GS). — A glabioua climber, or only hairy on the qnite young parts. Leaves presenting similar variations in shape to the last from a trun. cats or obscurely three-lobed apex to deeply two-lobed, as in the figure quoted. Flowers inconspicuons. This species comes near the last, but differs in having an oblong fruit traversed longitudinally by six sharp ridges. It was introduced from the West Indies, in 1820, by Dr. Graham, and possesses little beauty to recommend it to the cultivator. 17. Marbled Passion-flower (P. organensis).— This is closely allied to the two last, and is only mentioned here on account of the variety P. marmorata, which has the leaves prettily mottled with v\-hite and yellow. It is a native of Brazil, and is described as a pretty stove climber. Introduced a few years ago by Mr. Bowman, and sent out by Messrs. Veitch. 18. Crescent-leaved r assion-flower (P. lanata; Bot. Wag. t. 2351 ; Bot. lleg. t. 577).— A tall, evergreen, climbing species. Leaves cordato at the base with two spreading lobes ; lobes some, times narrow and forming a crescent-ahaped leaf, sometime.'!! broader than long; petioles short, destitute of glnnds. Flowers little more than an inch in diameter ; petals and sepals obovate, white on the face ; coronet-threads yellow at the tips, green at the base. As represented in the " Botanical Register," this is a neat and rather pretty species. It inhabits the West Indies, and was sent to the Ch?l-ea Botanic Garden previous to 1733, by Dr. William Houston. 19. Medusa Passion-flower (P. Jorullensis). [Synonym— P. Modufre, Bot. Mag. t.4752].— A climber, with somewhat crescent- shaped, glabrous, three-nerved leaves, beset with small, eye-like, i^mroersed glands ; nerves terminating in a short bristle ; petiole from 2 in. to 1 in. long, without glands. Flowers less than 2 in. in diameter, borne on slender peduncles, IJin. to 2 in. long; sepals narrow-oblong, yellow on the face ; petals very minute ; coronet-threads red, nearly as long as the sepals. This is an extremely pretty species, supoosed to be a native of Mexico. It was introduced into Belgian gardens about 1818. 20. Red-leaved Passion-flower (P. erythrophvlla).— A Blender, glabrous climber with angular branches, small, half-circular eaves, truncate or obscurely three-lobod at the apex, and verv small ilowois and minute petals. I have only seen a small dried specimen ot tins species, judging from which the leaves must be of a bright red colour and the plant possibly a very ornamental one. A native of New Grenada. 21. Thread-stalked Passion-flower (P. fiUnes).- An elc- gant, exceedingly slender climber, glabrous in all its parts. Leaves lin. to 2 m. m diameter, borne on very slender petioles, nearly circular m outline, with three short, broad, rounded lobes, the prin. cipal nerve of each terminating in a minute bristle-point. Flowers very small, greenish-white, borne on very slender stalks, 1 in. to 2 in. in length. This Mexican species is not in cnltivation, but it deserves mentioning here on account ot its great elegance. It appears, from, the dried specimens, to be quite a miniature plant. f^- Hooker's Passion-flower (P. penduliflora; Bot. Mag. t. 45(jo).— This is a very distinct, climbing, evergreen shrub, with glabrous, coriaceous, half circular, or oblong leaves, with a truncate or obscurely three-lobed apex, and a wedge-shaped base. The pen. duloua flowers are greenish.yellow with an orange-red coronet, U in. to „ in.m diameter, borne on rather stout peduncles, 2 in. to 3 in ong A very striking characteristic of this species is the cnlat-ed ten.lobed or gibbous calyx-tube. A native ot the West Indies ii.trodnccd about 1850. In his description of the plant under the ]. ate quoted the late Sir W. Hooker observes :-" Though destitute ot the varied colouring of many of the species ot the genus, there is a grace and .-in elegance in the plant that render it an object well worthy ot cultivation." * ^n?' ^J^^^^ Yellow Passion-flower (P. lutea, Bot. Reg. t. /j;.— This species is a native of the Southern States ot North America, and IS mentioned hero not so much on account of its beauty, though it is an elegant, slender climber, as on account ot its being one ot the first cultivated in this country. It has broadly cordato leaves 2 in. to 4 in. broad with three broad, rounded lobes and borno on slender petioles. The greenish.yellow flowers are scarcely moro than halt.an-inch in diameter, and are borne on slender peduncles nearly as long as the leaves. Miller (1731) says ot this species that " it is very hardy, enduring our severest cold in the open ground, dyinft to t ,o ground every year, and rising again the succeed, ing spring ; that it increases very fast by its spreading roots ; but it li rorn^", "f.%"^"°"''"''' '^°'' "■'"'" '' doth, they are so small and ill.coloured that it scarce deserves a place in the garden." P. ™ wh^r.r''^ '""' P;'"-J-°°°'''°« ■^^ inconspicuous species of this group, which are, or have been, in cultivation, P. Maximiliana (Vespertilio, Bot. Reg., t. 597, not ot Linriens) with leaves thfi shape of a strung bow, resembling some of the forms ot the true P. Vespertilio, has been grown under the name ot P. discolor. P. punc- tata and P. Swartzi are other species formerly in cnltivation, bat they do not merit full description in this place. 24 Herbert's Passion-flower (P. Herbertiana; Bot. Reg. t. 737, Disemma Herbertiana)- — A tall, more or leas hairy climber, with broad, palmatcly-Iobed leaves, truncate or slightly cordate at the base. Leaves 3 iu. or moro in length, with three broad, triangu. lar sharp. pointed lobes, and borne on long stalks, furnished with two glands near the top. Flowers green and white, or yellow, solitary or two or three together, borne on pedicels much shorter than the leaves. A greenhouse species, native of Australia, in Queensland and New South Wales ; not so ornamental as many others, and only recom. mended to amateurs forming collections in the south of Europe and similar climates. It was introduced into this country iu 1821. 25. Sir Joseph Banks' Passion-flower (P. Banksi). — This is very near the last, differing in being glabrous, iu the lobes of the leaves usually obtuse, and in the structure of the coronet. It is also very near P. aurantia. A native ot Australia. I find no date of the introduction ot this species, nor have I ever seen it growing ; but it was in cultivation in this country in 1867. 26. Dr. liindley's Passion-flower (P. cinnabarina; Gard. Chron. 1835, with cut). — This species haspalmately, from three to five lobed, thin leaves, on short petioles destitute ot glands. The coronet in this, as in other Australian species, is infolded towards the column. Dr. Lindley describes it as a graceful, bright green climber, with thin, halt-transparent leaves. Flowers about 2i in. in diameter, dull red, except the coronet, which consists ot yellow threads. The fruit is like a yellow Plum, having a distinct perfume similar to that ot a Jlelon, giving the plant a very beautiful appearance. It was dis- covered by Sir Thomas Mitchell, who sent seeds of it to tbo Royal Horticultural Society's Garden, whence it was distributed some years ago. S7. South Sea Passion-flower (P. aurantia; Disemma aurantia, Labillardiisro Sertum Austro-Caiedonicum, t. 79). — A glabrous climber with furrowed or angular branches, very broadly three-lobed leaves, 2 in. to 3 in. broad, rounded, truncate, or slightly cordate at tho base ; lobes rounded, the central ones rather longer than the others ; petioles halt-an.inch to IJ in. long, slender, fur- nished with two glands above the middle. Flowers about 2i in. in diameter, on axillary peduncles, 1 in. to 2 in. long; sepals much longer than the petals, furnished with a short awn or spur just below the tip, green outside, purplish. red within, as well as the oblong petals. Coronet consisting ot numerous, linear, spreading threads, and a central tube enclosing the lower part of the staminal column. Fruit oblong, nearly 2 in. in diameter through the broadest section- This species was introduced by Messrs. Lee and Kennedy in 1792- It is a native of Norfolk Island, New Caledonia, and other irslands of the South Sea, and not so ornamental as many other greenbonse 28. Maiden-hair Passion-flower (P. glabra ; P. adianti- folia, Bot. Reg., t. 233). — A similar plant to the last, differing, how- ever, in having no glands on the petioles, iu the lateral lobes of the leaves being notched, and in the shorter coronet. Tho flowers vary from a dirty yellowish-white to orange and briclcred, as also, it is stated in the " Botanical Register," do those ot P. anrantia. A native ot Norfolk Island, introduced by Messrs. Kennedy and Leo in 1792, but it appears to have given place in most gardens to tho moro showy species and hybrids. Section in. — itiirucii'a. — Bracts small, separate. Flowers coloured on the outside. Coronet thiu, flit not folded, entire or fringed at the top. 29. Bladder Passion-flower (P. Murucuia, Bot. Rep., t. 574). — A glabrous climber with angular stems and transversely two. lobed, crescent. shaped or half-circular leaves, 11 in. to 2 in. broad, glandular beneath ; lobes slightly notched at the ape.x ; petiole destitute ot glands, less than halt an inch long. Flowers of a rich, though dull, carmine. red, about 2.i in. in diameter, borne on stalks usually exceeding an inch iu length ; sep.ilsnnd petals similar, linear-lanccolato, turned back in the fully expanded flowers, tho latter shorter and narrower than tho sepals. Coronet of the same colour as tho sepals and petals, erect, bell. shaped, about a third as long a^i the very tall column. Tho tube of the flower is spherically expanded iniinediately below tho sepals and divided into ten small compartments, represented outwardly by as many inflations. A very showy and distinct species, growing wild in the West Indies. Accord- ing to the " Hortus Kewensis " this species was cultivated by Miller in 1739, but ho describes the leaves as stem-clasping — the character ot tbo next species. The figure qnoted above was published in 1821, July 1, 1876,] THE GARDEN. 15 and in the aocompanyins text it ia stated that it waa taken from a plant in the hot-honse" of Messrs. Colville, King's Road, Chelsea, which was raised from seed received by Mr. Anderson, the saperin- tendent of the Chelsea Physic Garden, from St. Domingo ; and tho writer gives it as his opinion that this was the first time the species had flowered in England. 30. Connate-leaved Passion-flower (P. porfoliata; Bot. Reg. t. VS). — ^This is similar in its floral straotm-e to the last, but quite distinct from it. The young branches are loss angular and quite hairy, and the transversely two-lobed leaves are nearly sessile, and each lobe has an ear at the base embracing the stem, lobes spreading 2 in. to 4 io. from tip to tip, oblong, obtuse, with a minute bristle-point ; sometimes an intermediate, very short one is developed. Flowers purple, rather smaller than in the last ; sepals linear, mnch narrower and shorter than the lanceolate petals ; tube traversed longitudinally by purple ribs ; coronet short, green with a yellow rim. A variety figured in Andrew's "Botanical Repository" t. 547, has rosy red flowers. The fruit is bluish-red and about the size of a Cherry. Also a native of the West Indies, introduced into this country previous to 1739. A very free-flowering desirable species for a warm greenhouse. 31. Oblong-leaved Passion-flower (P. oblongata). — A woody climber with oblong, glabrous, coriaceous, strongly three-nerved leaves glossy on the upper surface, 4 in. to 6 in. long by 2 in. to 3 in. broad, rounded at the base, truncate, crescent-shaped or three-lobed at the apex ; petiole 1 in. to 2 in. long ; nerves running out into short bristles. Flowers red, bell-shaped, borne in leafless racemes on the old wood. This was in cultivation in 1816, according to the " Hortns Kesvensis," but I find no figure of it in the magazines. 32. Catesby's Passion-flower (P. cuprea; Jacquia loon. PI. Rar. t. 606). — A glabrous climber with slightly angular branches, oblong-oval, entire, obtuse, sub-coriaceous, glandular leaves, and rosy red flowers, about 2 in. in diameter. Coronet cup-shaped, seg- ments united at the base, black with orange tips in the figure quoted. Native of West Indies, introduced by Mr. Mark Catesby in 1724, and cultivated by Dr. Sherard at Eltham in 1732. There is a good figure of it in the " Hortus Elthamensis." 33. liOng'-tubed Passion-flower (P. trinervia; Tacsonia trinervia). — A woody climber, young parts hairy, leaves leathery, three-nerved, acuminate or more or less three-lobed at the apex. This species is remarkable for its long tubular flowers, 4 in. to 6 in. long, similar to those of the true Tacsonias, but without the large leafy bracts at the base. The flowers are of a rosy red, hairy on the outside while young, but eventually glabrous, and borne on slender stalks 4 in. to 6 in. or more in length. Coronet small within the tube. This remarkable species is a native of New Grenada, and has not yet been introduced. 34. Wallis's Passion-flower (P. sangninolenta).— A hairy climber with angular branches, half-circular, two-lobed leaves, with the apex hollowed out and sometimes with the rudiment of a third lobe, about 2 in. to 3 in. in diameter, and borne on short, slender stalks. Flowers bell-shaped, rose-pink, hairy on the outside, and the tube inflated at the base, destitute of bracts. Coronet consisting of numerous short free threads, red with white tips. This species was introdnced by Mr. Wallis a few years ago, but it does not appear to have got into general cultivation. Section IV. — G-ranadilla. — Climbing herbs or shrubs with tendrils, large leafy or coloured involncral bracts, surrounding the bell-shaped flower-tube, and a conspicuous filamentous coronet, t Bracts united at the hase. 35. Apple-fruited Passion-flower (P. maliformis ; Bot. Reg., t. 94). — A glabrous or slightly pubescent climber, with short branches and large ovate or ovate-cordate, entire, abruptly-pointed leaves, 3 in. to 6 in. long, on glandular petioles, 1 in. to 2 in. long ; stipules small linear. Flowers fragrant, solitary, axillary, on stalks 2 in. to 3 in. or more in length, subtended by very large red- veined, gieen bracts, exceeding the petals and persistent around the fruit, 2i in. to 3 in. in diameter ; sepals and petals yellowish-white, prettily spotted with red, ultimately turned back, the latter much smaller than the former. Coronet-threads or segments linear, equalling the sepals in length, beautifully variegated red and white with blue tips. Anthers yellow. Fruit oblong, yellow, about H in. to 2 in. diameter, edible in its native eouniry, the West Indies. A handsome species, cultivated in 1731 by Philip Miller. Judging from the dried speci- mens the involncral bracts are sometimes white and sometimes pink. 36. Mottled Passion-flower (P. ligularis) ; (Bot. Mag., t- 2967, P. Lowei Gartenflora, 1S52, t. 9).— Near the last, with rather larger and thinner, rich dark green, distinctly cordate leaves, on longer petioles, which are furnished with several stalked glands and large, leafy stipules. The involncral bracts are rather smaller than m the preceding species, but thev are not so distinctly toothed as repre- sented in the " Botanical Magazine," and the larger sepals and petals are of a yellowish-white on the face. The very numerous eovODet- threads equal the sepals, and are mottled red and white with blue tips. A native of Peru and New Grenada, cultivated m this country in 1819. 37. Large-bracted Passion-flower (P. triloba).— I have seen only dried specimens of this species, which is remarkable for its large, oval, green, involncral bracts, often exceeding 2 in. in length, and much larger than the petals. The whole plant has a glaucous hue, and the deeply cordate leaves are undivided or (the lower ones) deeply three-lobed, the margin finely toothed, and they are borne on petioles several inches in length. Spruce describes tho flower as of a violet colour and fragrant. The rather broad coronet- bands are zoned or banded, but the colours cannot be determined from dried specimens. This is in the list of species cultivated at St. Petersburgh. 38. Palmate-leaved Passion-flower (P. serrata).— The last of this section, easily distinguished by its long-stalked mem- branous leaves, 6 in. to 9 in. in diameter, and palmately divided two- thirds of the way down into five to seven obovate, acuminate, finely, toothed lobes. The petioles are furnished with stalked glands, and the involncral bracts are coloured. It was introduced into this country in 1800, by Sir Joseph Banks, but I have seen no living specimens. ft Brads free to the hase. 39. Wing-stemmed Passion-flower (P. qnadrangularis; Bot. Reg., t. 14; Bot. Mag., t. 2041).— A lofty, glabrous climber, with thick, square, distinctly four.winged stems, and large ovate- cordate, or nearly rotundate, acuminate, one-nerved leaves, 4 m. to 6 in. or more long, borne on stout six-glandular petioles, secondary nerves prominent, diverging from the mid-rib ; stipules ovate-lanceo- late, an inch or more in length ; tendrils very stout and strong. Flowers very showy, about 4 in. in diameter; sepals and petals brio-ht rosy-pink and white on the face ; coronet-threads exceeding the° petals, beautifully marked with alternate crimson-purple and white bands, and tipped with blue and white; stamens yellow, spotted with red. The tube of the flower is bell-shaped, and very fleshy, a character common to several of the immediately following species. This is undoubtedly one of the handsomest of the Passion- flowers, but from its large dimensions it is only suitable for a spacious house. The leaves sometimes attain a foot in length, and the flowers much larger than they are here described. The yellowish-green fruit is edible, growing to the size and shape of a swan's egg. It is one of the Grauadillas of Tropical America, where it is generally culti- vated. It is said to grow truly wild in Nicaragua, and was in cultivation in this country upwards of a century ago. 40. Malcolm's Passion-flower (P. alata; Bot. Mag. t. 66). —This is near the last, difiering in the stems being only narrowly winged, in having usually four glands on the petioles, and in the secondary nerves being fewer, and much wider apart, and curved, closely corresponding to the outline of the leaf, instead of being given off at nearly right angles, in the relatively small stipules and pear-shaped fruit. It perhaps even surpasses P. qnadrangularis in the brilliancy and fragrance of its flowers. The plant, figured in tho " Botanical Magazine," 1788, has vermilion-red petals, and lilac and white banded coronet-segments, crimson at the base. This was introduced from the West Indies in 1772 by Mr. W. Malcolm, who had a garden at Kennington. P. phosnicea (Bot. Reg. t. 1603), Ur. Masters regards as a variety. In this the face of the sepals and petals is a rich deep scarlet ; the sepals green at the back, and furnished with a short, curved spur, just below the tip ; and the petals are purplish-red at the back, traversed by a central longitudinal white line The coronet segments are erect, forming a cylinder, white with crimson bands on the lower half and deep violet in the upper ha,lt j and the anthers are yellow. The petioles are represented as bearing two yellow glands near the base of the blade. 41 Iiarge-fruited Passion-flower (P. macrocarpa).— As a species this comes very near P. quadrangularis and in the young state it is almost impossible to distinguish them. Dr Masters describes it as having more rounded, smaller leaves m the adult state, and larger stipules, larger, more rounded, serrated bracts a shorter, shallower calyx-tube, and violet (not pink) petals r^rther it has a verv much larger fruit, equalling a small Vegetable Marrow, and sometimes attaining a weight of 8 lbs. It is oblong, depressed at both ends, and longitudinally furrowed. This plant is extensively cultivated in Peru and other parts of Tropical America for its fruit, and ia possibly nothing more than an improved cultivated variety ot P. qnadrangularis. 16 THE GARDEN. [JULT 1, 18?6. BeloDgiDg to allied gronpa are ; — P. riparia, with leathery, oblong, lanceolate leaves and clustered flon-ers having white petals and a purple and white banded coronet ; P. Miersi, with small ovate.acute leaves on very slender petioles, and cartilaginous on the margin and subtended by ear-shaped stipules ; P. glandulosa, with coriaceous, oblong-lanceolate, entire leaves, -1 in. to 6 in. long, and remarkable for the metallic lustre of their upper surface and their closely reticu- lated nervation, large and showy Sowers, and glandular bracts; and P. colorata, with entire, coriaceous, reticulated, glossy, ovate-oblong, aeuto leaves, about 2 in. to 3 in. long, comparatively small flowers and purple bracts. None of these are in cultivation, but they are all very distinct, and deserve a place in a collection. 42. Lovely Passion-flower (P. amabilis; Bot. Mag., t. 4106). — A very attractive, slender.growing species with ovate, acute, entire, membranous, glabrous leaves, 3 in. to 5 in. long, and borne on glandular petioles, the latter loss than an inch long on the flowering branches; stipules ovate-lanceolate, acuminate, shorter than the petioles. Flowers solitary, axillary, about 3 in. in diameter, borne on a peduncle 1 in. to 2 in. long; sepals and petals similar, crimson within; coronet white, outer-threads about two-thirds the length of the petals. A native of Brazil introduced it into this country through Belgian gardens previous to 1S18. 43. Laurel.leaved Passion -flower (P. laurifolia; Bot. Reg., t. 13.) — A shrubby, glabrous climber, with coriaceous, shining, reticu- lated leaves, variable in outline, but resembling in shape and size those of the Portugal Laurel. Flowers fragrant, about 3 in. in diameter, soli, tary on short peduncles, subtended by large orbicular bracts, which are glandular on tho margin ; sepals and petals similar, greenish-white, finely spotted with red,reflexed ; coronet-threads banded with violet, red, and white. Fruit yellow, about the size of a Lemon, edible. This species is a native of the West Indies, and was one of the first culti. vated in this country, having been introduced in 1G90 by the Earl of Portland. It is of a moro woody nature than most Passion-flowers, and its odoriferous flowers are extremely beautiful. P. nitida is handsome, closely allied to a Brazilian species not in cultivation. 44. Houston's Passion-flower (P. serratifolia; Bot. Mag., t. 651). — A slender climber, with terete, pubescent stems, sub. ooiiaocous, oval. oblong, finely-toothed leaves 3 in. to 4 in. long, borne on short petioles furnished with several glands. Flowers on pedun- cles about as long on the leaves ; bracts lanceolate, entire, shorter than the sepals and petals, which are of a greenish-white. Coronet. threads spreading to as much as 3 in. in diameter, and exceeding the petals, mottled red and purplish-brown in the lower half, blue and very slender in the upper half. This pretty species was first raised in the Chelsea Botanical Garden, in 1731, from seeds sent home by Dr. W. Houston. 45. Brilliant Passion-flower (P. coccinea ; P. fulgens, Belg. Hort., xvi., t. 13). — A shrubby climber with cordate-ovate or oblong, irregularly.toothed leaves, 3 in. to 5 in. long by IJr in. to 3 in. broad ; glabrous above, and clothed with a very short, soft down beneath. Flowers solitary and axillary, on peduncles 2 in. to 1 in. long ; bracts 1 in. to 11 in. long, lanceolate -orate, toothed; sepals and petals similar, nearly 2 in. long, represented as reflexed on the peduncle in the figure quoted, of a dazzling scarlet; outer corouet-threads about half as long as the petals, erect and curved at the tips, variegated white and scarlet; anthers green, faintly spotted with red; styles scarlet. There are two varieties ot this species— that figured in the " Belgique Uorticole " is described as perfectly glabrous, but most of the dried specimens I have seen have a velvety down on the under surface of the leaves, and the flowers are even larger than described above. A nativeof Tropical America (Guiana, &c.), and certainly one of the most brilliantly coloured species in cultivation. It is recorded as having been introduced into this country in 1820, but thero is no figure of it in any ot the magazines. The variety figured in the " Belgique Uorticole " was introduced by Mr. Wallis in 1864 from tho Amazon. 46. White Passion-flower (P. mucronata ; P. albida, Bot. Eog. t. G77).— -A tall, glabrous climber, with terete, somewhat suceu. leijt branches, cordate-ovate or nearly orbicular, obtuse often bristle. pointed, membranous leaves, 2J in. to 3 in. in diameter ; petioles i in. to 1 in. long furnished with two glands; stipules broadly ovate, sharp. pointed. Flowers scentless white, tinged with green, on long (4 in. to C) in.), stout, fleshy peduncles, about tin. in diameter; bracts about an inch long, glandular on the margin, falling off very early ; sepals and petals similar, except that the former are pro- mwiently keeled, and furnished with a largo spur near the tip; coronot.thrends few, yellowish, less than half the length of the petals. This IS perhaps tho best white or nearly white Passion.flower wo have. It is a Brazilian species, and was introduced by Cunningham and Bowie in 181C. 47. Hellebore.Ieaved Passion-flower (P. pedata). — This species may readily be distinguished by its pedately seven.lobed leaves, resembling in this respect those ot the Christmas Kose, borne on petioles 3 in. to 4 in long ; leaflets membranous, pubescent, and toothed. Flowers 3 in. to 4 in. in diameter, on stalks 2 in. to 3 in. long ; bracts very large, finely fringed on the margin ; sepals greenish on the face, spotted with red ; petals blue ; coronet-threads nearly as long as the petals, deep red, banded with white, and violet tips. A native of the West Indies and New Grenada, introduced in 1781 by Mr. Francis Masson. 48. Four-glanded Passion-flower (P. quadriglandulosa ; Tacsonia sanguinea, Bot. Mag. t. 4674). — A very handsome species, approaching P. coccinea in its foliage, except that in this some of the leaves are three-lobed, and the toothing is coarser and more irregular. Flowers about 5 in. in diameter, borne on stalks about an inch in length ; involucral bracts very small, linear, subulate ; sepals and petals similar, rosy-red with crimson shading, the former spurred ; coronet-threads short, erect, and spreading at the tips, crimson and white. A native of the West Indies and Tropical America, intro- duced in cultivation in 1852. P. speciosa is an allied Brazilian species of great beauty, with downy three-lobed leaves and scarlet flowers, 6 in. in diameter, which deserves looking after by collectors 49. Vine-leaved Passion-flower (P. vitifolia; Tacsonia Buchanaui, Illus. Hort,, t. 519).' — True to its name, this species pre- sents a striking resemblance in the shape of its leaves to those of the Grape Vine, but they are more or less clothed with a rusty tomentnm on the under surface, and often glandular on the margin. In its flowers it is one of the most magnificent species of a genus, truly perplexing in its extraordinary richness of beautiful and varied forms. The flowers have a very short coronet and are of a brilliant vermilion. red, about 4 in. in diameter, in the figure cited, and exceed, ing 6 in. in some dried specimens at Kew from Panama, which, moreover, appear to have been of a blood-red colour. 50. Middleton's Passion-flower (P. Middletoniana ; Past. Mag. Bot., ix., 51). — This has similar foliage to the last, but tho flowers are very different, having purplish petals and violet-purple, white-banded coronet-threads nearly as long as the petals. Dr. Masters thinks it may be a hybrid, though Paxton says it was raised from seeds collected by H. Middleton, Esq., either in the West Indies or South America. 51. Curled-coronet Passion.flower (P. cincinnata ; Bot. Mag., t. 5735). — A very handsome species of recent introduction. It is a tall, glabrous climber, with rather stout, round branches and palmately five-lobed leaves, about 3 in. or 4 in. broad, on glandular petioles from 1 in. to 2 in. or more in length. Flowers about 3 in. in diameter, on stalks 2 in. to 3 in. long ; bracts large, oblong, glandular at the base ; sepals and petals similar, violet-blue, the former furnished with a short spur or horn ; coronet-threads twisted, exceeding the petals, violet, banded with brown and white in the lower half ; column short ; anther yellow. This fine species was first discovered by Gardner, in 1S37, in Brazil, and was introduced into cultivation in this country by Mr. Philip Frost about 1867. 52. Parkinson's Passion.flower (P. incarnata; Hot. Mag., t. 3697). — A glabrous or slightly inibescent climber, with deeply three-lobed saw-toothed leaves, 3 in. to 4 in. broad, and borne on petioles 1 in. to 2 in. long, with two large glands above the middle. Flowers violet or purple and white, about 3 in. in diameter, on stalks 4 in. to 6 in. long ; bracts small ; sepals and petals similar, the former spurred ; coronet-threads spreading, exceeding the petals. This species is interesting in being prcbably the first cultivated in this country. Parkinson figures it in his " Paradisus" (1657), p. 395, fig. 7, and speaks of it as springing up late in the year, about the begin, ning ot May, and flowering but rarely producing fruit ; and describes it as a brave and too much desired plant. According to Alton's " Ilortns Kewensis," it was in cultivation in this country as early as 1629. Miller, in the first edition ot his " Dictionary," says this sort is somewhat tenderer than any ot the former (varieties of ccernlea). It dies to the surface every winter, and rises again the succeeding spring ; and it the summer be warm will produce large quantities of flowers. Gerard (1597) speaks of a Passion-flower, probably this species, as growing and flowering in the garden of Mistress Tnggy at Westminster. This species is now rarely seen in gardens, as it is inferior in point of beauty to the varieties of the hardier P. ccorulea, and even in Miller's time the latter was fast displacing it. It is a native of the Southern States of North America. 53. Delicious Passion.flower (P. edulis). — This species is very near the last, and has frequently been confounded with it. ■ Thus the plates 132 (incarnata variety) and 832 (incarnata) of the " Botanical Register," both represent varieties of P. ednlis. One of the characters by which this may be distingnished is the position of July 1, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 17 the glands on the petiole close at the base ot the blade of the leaf. As an ornamental plant this is surpassed by many species, but its fruit is said to be superior to that of all others of the genus. A native of Tropiea'l America, and commonly cultivated for its fruit. 54. Slender-stalked Passion-flower (P. membranacea) . — A very remarkable species not in cultivation, with glabrous, almost cir. cular, three-nerved, sub-peltate leaves, 2 in. to 3 in. in diameter, and borne on long slender petioles. Flowers about 2 in. in. diameter, sub. tended by orbicular, membranous (coloured), finely reticulated bracts, and borne on very slender stalks 3 in. to 5 in. long. Found on the Volcan de Agua, Guatemala, by Hartweg. 55. Smaller White Passion-flower (P. alba ; Link and Otto lo. PI. Ear. Hort. Berol. t. 33). — A glabrous climber, with small (2 in. broad), three-lobed leaves, on relatively long, slender petioles ; lobes oblong, obtuse, bristle-pointed, glandular, toothed in the sinuses ; stipnles ovate-lanceolate, acute, cordate at the base, and about an inch long. Flowers white, about 2i in. in diameter, on stalks nearly equalling theleaves ; coronet-threads slender, little more than half as long as the petals ; anthers bright yellow. This is a very pretty white or rather greenish- white flowered species : native of Brazil. It was in cultivation at Berlin in 1828, and there is a specimen in Kew Herbarium grown in the Glasgow Botanic Garden. 56. Moore's Passion-flower (P. Mooreana; Bot. Mag. t. 3773). — A glabrous, somewhat glaucous species with very shortly, stalked, deeply three-lobed leaves, 4 in. to 5 in. long, subtended by conspicuously large, cordate-lanceolate, acute stipules, IJ in. lo 2 in. or more in length; lobes linear-oblong, obtuse or acute, toothed, lateral ones spreading at an angle of about 45' ; petiole furnished with two very large glands. Flowers about 2i in. in diameter, on stalks 2 in. to 3 in. long j involucral bracts cordate, toothed, exceeding the expanded flower ; sepals and petals similar, white, the former spurred ; coronet.threads variegated dark blue, and white at the base with lighter blue tips, about two-thirds as long as the petals, inner shorter ones purple ; anthers large yellow. This is a very ornamental species. It was introduced from Buenos Ayres in 1837 by Mr. Tweedie, and is said to be probably as hardy as P. coerulea, which it resembles in its flowers, and which are described as being very fragrant. Whether this did not meet the expectations of horticul- turists, I do not know, but it does not appear to have been very widely dispersed in gardens. 57. Blue Passion-flower (P. amethystiua ; P. onyohina, Bot. Reg., new series, i. t. 21). — A very slender, glabrous climber, with three-lobed leaves, 3 in. to 4 in. broad, on slender petioles, 2 in. to 3 in. long, and studded with several glands scattered throughout their whole length; lobes, oval. oblong, lateral ones spreading at nearly right angles. Flowers blue, with a purple centre, about 24 in. across, borne on slender stalks, 3 in. or 4 in. long; bracts small, membranous, and falling away very early, not bractless, as described in the " Botanical Register " ; sepals and petals similar, the former with a prominent spur ; coronet-threads spotted with a darker blue, and purple at the base, about two-thirds the length of the petals ; styles and anthers green and yellow, spotted with red. This is a very fine species, having flowers of a richer blue than any other in cultivation. It was first brought to this country by B. J. Sullivan, Esq., of H.M.S. " Beagle," who procured seeds of it from the Botanic Garden, Rio Janeiro, in 1827. 58. Loddiges' Passion-flower (P. fllamentosa var. palmata ; Bot. Reg., t. 584; Bot. Mag.,t. 2023 ; Loddiges' Bot. Cab., t. 97).— A tall, shrubby climber with round, not angular, stems, and palmately five-lobed, more or less pubescent leaves, 4 in. ,to 6 in. across, and borne on two glandular petioles 1 in. to 2 in. long ; lobes lanceolate, saw-toothed. Flowers about 3 in. in diameter, on stalks nearly or quite as long as the leaves ; bracts oblong or nearly orbicular, finely, toothed, i in. to i in. long; petals rather longer than the sepals, both pale blue ; coronet-threads as long as the petals or sometimes even longer, reddish-purple at the base, followed by a white band and a black band, and the upper half dark blue. A very showy, free- flowering species, introduced from the West Indies, in 1817, by Messrs. Loddiges. 59. Fragrant Passion-flower (P. Actinia; Bot. Mag., t. 4009). — An exceedingly handsome, and a very distinct species. Tweedie's note accompanying his dried specimens is to the effect that he had met with no plant superior to this in the colouring and fragrance of its flowers. It is a shrubby, glabrous climber, with slender, cylindrical stems, entire, ovate, oval or nearly orbicular, somewhat coriaceous leaves, 2 in. to 3 in. across, glaucous beneath, notched at the apex, sometimes showing a tendency to become three- lobed, and borne on petioles about an inch long, the latter bearing four to six or more scattered glands. Flowers about 3 in. in diameter, borne on short stalks scarcely exceeding the petioles ; bracts ovate- cordate, entire, about half an inch long ; sepals and petals similar, white ; coronet-threads as long as the petals, curled at the ends, and very elegantly and regularly banded with white and red, and tipped with blue ; anthers large and yellow. This was first introduced by Messrs. Veitch, through their collector, Mr. Lobb, who found it in the Organ Mountains, Brazil, and sent it home in 1842. The specific name is given in allusion to the resemblance of the flowers to some of the Sea-anemones (Actinia). 60. Pea-green.leaved Passion-flower (P. glauca ; Bot. Reg. t. 88). — A glabrous, glaucous climber with cylindrical, purplish stems, and three-lobed leaves, 3 in. to 4 in. across, rounded or cor- date at the base, borne on petioles 2 in. or more in length, and beset with several glands ; stipules large and conspicuous. Flowers about 3 in. across, on stalks equalling or exceeding the petioles ; bracts ovate small ; sepals and petals similar, sepals not spurred, white tinged with green, ultimately reflexed ; coronet-threads nearly as long as the petals, violet in the lower part with white tips ; anthers large, yellow ; styles green, spotted with red. A native of the West Indies, first introduced by Messrs. Lee and Kennedy, of Hamri.er. smith, in 1779. The plant called P. stipnlata in gardens is probably the same. 61. Tweedie's Passion-flower (P. tuoumanensis ; Bot. Mag. t. 3636). — This species resembles the last in general appearance and in many particulars ; but here the glands on the petioles are stalked, and the lobes of the leaves are glandular on the margin towards the base in the sinuses. The stipules are even larger, more than an inch long, broadly half-cordate, and coarsely -toothed ; and the sepals are furnished with a spur or horn. The flowers, as represented in the " Botanical Magazine," are less than 2 in. in diameter, and the coronet.threads are banded with blue in the lower half. A native of Tucuman, in Chili, discovered and introduced by Mr. Tweedie in 1836. 62. Purple-leaved Passion-flower (P. picturata ; Bot. Reg. t. 673). — A slender, glabrous climber, with equally three-lobed leaves 2 in. to 3 in. broad, reddish-purple beneath, borne on slender petioles 1 in. to 2 in. long and furnished with several stalked glands ; stipules large, entire, terminating in a bristle-poiut. Flowers 2J in. to 3 in. in diameter, borne on stalks about as long as the leaves ; bracts reddish-purple, lanceolate or obovate, entire, nearly an inch long ; tube of the calyx expanded at the base and then constricted ; sepals and petals reflexed, similar, pink, the former furnished with a conspicuously long spur, projecting at least a quarter of an inch beyond the tip ; coronet-threads reflexed over the petals, and about half as long, regularly banded with blue, black and white ; anthers yellow ; styles spotted with red. A native of Brazil, introduced by Mr. Lee, of Hammersmith, about the year 1820. 63. Common Blue Passion-flower (P. coerulea).— This species deserves special prominence on account of its hardiness. It is recorded to have been first introduced in 1699, by the Duchess of Beaufort; and Miller, in the first edition of his " Gardeners' Die. tionary" (1731), describes three varieties, and a sub-variety of P. augustifolla with yallow, blotched leaves, which some people, he says, " preserve as a great curiosity, but as this variegation is small and hardly to be seen in the vigorous shoots, so it is scarce worth mentioning." He was also aware of their hardiness, for he says they will endure our severest cold, though in very hard winters their shoots, or even their whole stems, are killed ; but they seldom fail to shoot up again. He also mentions the narrow-leaved variety as fruiting very freely, but he had never seen fruit of the broad-leaved variety. However, this does not coincide with my experience. P. coerulea is a glabrous climber, with angular branches, usually five- lobed (sometimes seven to nine), leaves on glandular petioles, 1 in. to 2 in. long ; large, leafy stipules, large, oval, entire, bracts conspicu. ously awned sepals, and flowers about 3 in. across, and borne on stalks from 2 in. to 3 in. long. There are several varieties differing in the shape of the lobes of the leaf, and in the colouring of the flowers. In P. angustifolia the lobes are scarcely more than a quarter of an inch broad, and ot nearly equal breadth throughout their whole length, which is from 2 in. to 3 in. ; and other varieties exist presenting intermediate gradations up to IJ in. in breadth, and 5 in. to 6 in. in length. P. glauca has remarkably pea-green or glaucous leaves. P. Neumanni (Paxt. Mag. Bot. xv., 270), supposed to be a hybrid variety, is probably only a seminal variety of coerulea, for it is equally as hardy. It has greenish-white sepals and petals faintly tinged with pink, and the coronet-threads are banded with violet and white, with blue tips ; and the large anthers are yellow. A plate in the Bot. Mag. (28) represents the ordinary broad-leaved variety, having petals more deeply tinged with red, and the coronet, threads crimson, instead of violet, at the base. This species is a native of Uruguay. 18 THE GARDEN. [July 1, 1876. 64. Crimson Passion-flower (P. reflexiaora ; Cav. loones, y _ 422).— A very distinct species, perfectly glabrous in all its parts, with'uueqaally threo-lobed, snb. peltate, glaucous leaves, cordate at the base, 2 in. to 3 in. long, borne on slender, glandular petioles; lobes oval.oblong, obtuse, minutely notched at the apex, the central one twice as long as the lateral ones which diverge at right angles, often "landular on the margin in the sinuses. The crimson flowers are remarkable in this section in having a narrow cylindrical tube about an inch long, reflexed sepnls and petals of about the same leno-th Coronet reduced to a narrow fringe at the mouth of the tube, and the column exaertod about li in. The involucral bracts are small, and the peduncle varies from 2 in. to 6 in. in length. A native of Guatemala and Peru ; not cultivated in this country, so far aa I know, but it is in the St. Potersbnrgh Botanic Garden, according to Dr. Masters' list. 65. Emperor Passsion-flower (P. racemosa ; Bot. Keg. t. 285 ; Bot. Mag. t. 2001 ; P. princepe, Lodd. Bot. Cab. t. 84).— This is one of the most familiar species, and there are several maguieoent hybrids in cultivation, of which this is one of the parents. _ It received its specific name on account of the flowers being usually, in luxuriant plants, borne on long, leafless festoons at the ends of the branches. The glabrous leaves are nearly equally three-lobed, and almost leathery when old; lateral lobes, spreading or directed upwards, entire, acute ; stipules large, leafy, obliquely cordate-ovate. Flowers 4 in. to 5 in. in diameter, with a short, broad tube, inflated at the base, borne on short stalks ; bracts ovate, less than half-an-iach long, falUng away betoi-e the flowers expand ; sepals and petals of a rich crimson both vrithin and without, the former considerably longer than the petals and prominently keeled at the back, the keel projecting at the tip in the form of a short spur; coronet-threada little m.ore than half-an.inch long, dark bine or purple tipped with white. A native of South Brazil, introduced into this country by Messrs. Loddiges about the year 1815. 66. Badd's Passion-flower (P. Raddiana; P. kermesina, Bot. Mag., t. 3503; Bot. Reg., t. 1633).— A slender, perfectly elabrons°climber, with nearly equally three-lobed leaves, 3 in. to 4, in. across, cordate at the base, and, as well as the leafy stipules, purplish-violet beneath ; petioles slender, usually exceeding an inch in length. Flowers about 3 in. across, borne on long stalks, often more than G in. long ; sepals and petals almost exactly alike, rosy- red on both sides, eventually reflexed ; coronet-threads dark bloish- purplo, less than a third as long as the petals ; column yellow, spotted with red. This attractive species is a native of Brazil, and was first cultivated in this country in the gardens of tho Horticultural Society, having been brought over from the Berlin Garden in 1831 by Mr. Bentham. It is an extremely profuse bloomer, and, in short, it may be described as one of the most desirable of the genus, ttt Bracts free, leafy; jlower-tuhes short, fleshy. 67. Hahn's Passion-flower (P. Hahni ; DIsemma Hahni, Rev. Uort., 1859, p. 430, with a coloured plate).— A very glabrous, slender climber, with oval, peltate leaves about 3 in. long, .and obscurely three-lobed at the apex, having a reddish tinge below, and borne on relatively long petioles : stipules leafy. Flowers about 3 in. in diameter ; sepals and petals similar, white ; coronet-threads yellow, curled, about two-thirds as long as the petals. A handsome Mexican species, in cultivation in Paris in 1857. Its flowers approach as nearly to a pure white as any of the genus. Sal-genus II. — Tacsonid. Flowers more or leas funnel-shaped, with a tube usually as long or longer than the sepals and petals ; coronet-threads usually much less than half the length of the petals, except in P. pinnatistipula (see also No. 64). Section I. — Bracts free. 68. Kerner's Passion-flower (P. adulteriua ; Kerner, Hort.,281). — A climber with rather stout, woody, cylindrical brauches, shaggy when young. Leaves oblong, obtuse, obscurely.toothed, glabrous and wrinkled above, clothed beneath with a white or fawn, coloured shaggy tomentum, 2 in. to 4 in. long, borne on stalks about a quarter of an inch long. Stipules linear. Flowers rose-coloured, about 4 in. long, borne on shaggy peduncles abont an inch long. Bracts free to the base, lanceolate, entire, ultimately glabrous. Tube of tho flower quite glabrous; sepals about an inch long, terminating in a minute bristle, slightly exceeding the petals. This fine species does not appear to have been cultivated in this country, though it was probably in Continental gardens formerly, as Kerner figures it in his " Hortus Sempervirons," an exceedingly rare book, which I have not been able to consult. It is a native of the mountains of New Grenada. 69. Iiance-leaved Passion-flower (P. lanceolata). — This is another species with undivided, lanceolate leaves, which are glabrous on both surfaces, very acute, and somewhat coriaceous. The stems are slightly angular and hairy when young, as well as the fringed stipules and bracts. Flowers glabrous, 4 in. to 5 in. long, colour unknown to me. A native of the mountains of Peru, not yet in cultivation. 70. Miniature Passion-flower (P. graoilens). — A small, Blender creeper, glabrous in all its parts. This is noticed here on account of its very distinct character, being quite a miniatnre plant in comparison with all the others of this section. The three-lobed leaves scarcely exceed an inch from tip to tip of the lateral lobes, and the flowers are about an inch in length. A native of the moun- tains of Peru ; not in cultivation. 71. Mrs. Marryat's Passion-flower (P. pinnaciBtipnla ; Bot. Mag. t. 4062 ; Bot. Keg. t. 1536). — A lofty climber, having the young branches, petioles, and the under surface of the leaves densely clothed with a white, woolly down, interspersed with glands. Leaves deeply. three. lobed, cordate at the base, somewhat leathery, rugoseabove, veins prominent below ;■ lobes 3 in. or 4 in. long, lanceolate, acute, sharply toothed, lateral ones diverging almost at a right angle. Stipules s:nall, pinnatifid, with very narrow, more or less glandular segments. Tendrils not branched. Peduncles 2 in. to 3 in. long. Involucre of three cordate-toothed, glandular bracts. Flowers about 4 in. in diameter, rich rose-pink with a blue coronet. Calyx downy on the ontside, with a cylindrical tube about an inch long, and five spreading lobes of about the same length, nearly white inside, according to the "Bot. Magazine" plate, and nearly as highly coloured as the petals in the " Botanical Register." Petals oblong, slightly exceeding the calyx-lobes. Coronet consisting of one series of spreading slender threads inserted on the thickened mouth of the tube. Stamens with j'ellow anthers standing up an inch above the month of the tube. Fruit yellow, globular, downy, about the size of a hen's egg, edible according to Hartweg. This very ornamental species was first culti. vated in this country in the garden of Mrs. Marryat, of Wimbledon, where it was raised from seed procured about the year 1830 from Chili. A Banksian medal was awarded to the introducer. It flourishes best in a greenhouse. 73. Van Volxem's Passion-flower (P. VanVolxemi; Bot. Mag., t. 5571 ; P. antioquensis, Karsten, Fl. Colomb., t. 71). — Stems slender, climbing to a great height or length, slightly hairy as well as the under surface of the leaves, petals, and peduncles. Leaves membranous, deeply three-lobed, cordate at the base, from 4 in. to 8 iu. long, borne on short glandular stalks ; lobes lanceolate, acute, with rather distant, short, sharp teeth, stipules inconspicuous. Flowers brilliant red with a yellow centre in the cultivated variety, about 6 in. in diameter, pendent on very long, slender stalks, often 1 ft. to 2 ft. in length, and bearing three small bracts a short distance below tho flower. Calyx. tube green, enlarged at tho base, almost or quite hairless, about an inch long ; lobes similar in shape and colour. ing (on the face) to the petals, green at the back. Coronet very small and inccnspicuo'.:s. Anthers yellow, borne with tho ovary about 2 in. above tho month of the tnbe. This magnificent green, house climber is a native of tho mountains of Now Grenada, at an elevation of from 7000 to 8000 ft. It was introduced by M. Van Volxem, a Belgian amateur, iu 1859, and it created a great sensation among horticulturists at the time, being tho most brilliant of the genns then known, though it has since been eclipsed by the subject of our illus- tration. In a wild state it presents several variations. Thus in Kew Herbarium there is a variety with almost simple leaves, and appa- rently violet red flowers, from Mr. R. B. White, who describes it as growing in a cold climate, of a mean temperature of 12^ centigrade (53° 6 Fahr.) Tlio fruit is an elongated sort of Granadilla, and of a VI ry agreeable flavour. P. flexipes, of Planchon and Triana, is also regarded by Dr. Masters as a variety of this species, but he has omitted to mention it in his enumeration. It has a longer calyx- tube, and a hairy instead of glabrous ovary, and differs in some other particulars from the type. 73. Greame's Passion-flower (P. insignis ; Bot. Mag., t. (jOCy). — A tall-growing climber, with woody stems, having all tho young parts, including tho outside of the flowers and the ovary, clothed with a dense palo or rusty wool. Leaves leathery, undivided, full-sized ones upwards of G iu. or 7 in. in length, ovate.lanceolate, irregularly toothed, densely woolly beneath, glabrous and wrinkled above, borne on stout glandular stalks, from half.an.inch to 1 in. in length ; stipules small, divided into thread-like segments. Peduncle 6 in. to 8 in. long, much stonter than iu the preceding. Bracts very largo, irregularly cut at the margin. Flowers pendulous, 6 in. to Sin. in diameter; sepals oblong, koeled, violet-crimson, tho keel terminating in a green spur an inch long ; petals shorter than the sepals, of a rich dark crimson, rounded at the tips. Coronet consisting July 1, 1876.1 THE GARDEN. 19 o£ one series of white and bine threads about half-an-inch long, closing the mouth of the tnbe. Anthers yellow and stigmas green, elevated almost 2 in. above the petals. The history of this magnifi- cent plant is somewhat obscure. It was first flowered in 1873 in this country by Mr. Anderson, gardener at Sowerby House, Hull, who states that it was raised from seed sent home from South America some years previously by Mr. Yarborongh Greame. There are no wild specimens of it in Kew Herbarium. 74. Jameson's Passion-flower (P. Jamesoni). — A glabrous climber, with slightly angular branches, three-lobed, spiny.toothed, coriaceous leaves, with the general aspect of those of a Berberis ; lobes oval, oblong, obtuse or acute, lateral ones divergent, from 2 in. to 3i in. from tip to tip ; petioles about half-an.ineh ; stipules large as well as the involucral bracts deeply fringe.toothed or almost prickly. Flowers very large, 5 in. to 6 in. long before opening, and 4 in. to 5 in. in diameter when open, borne on stalks about 2 in. in length ; sepals and petals similar, saving that the former have a short awn, oblong. This magnificent species was discovered by the late Professor Jameson in the Andes of Quito, and has not yet been introduced. I have seen only dried specimens, and there is no indi- cation of the colour of the flowers ou the accompanying labels, but they are probably some shade of red or rose. Judging from the dried specimens above, this must be one of the finest species of this section. 75. Purdie's Passion-flower (P. floribunda ; Rathea Qoribunda, Karsten "Flora Colomb." i., t. 38). — This is a glabrous, or almost glabrous climber, with deeply three-lobed leaves, having a wedge, shaped base; lobes lanceolate, very acute, sharply. toothed ; central one 3 in. to 4 in. long; lateral ones about half-an-inch shorter ascending, that is, forming acute angles with the central one. Stipules and involucral bracts obscurely toothed ; flower-stalks slender, about 3 in. long. Flowers about 3 in. long, narrowly bell-shaped ; sepals with a fine awn about an eighth of an inch long. A native of New Grenada, discovered by Mr. Pnrdie, remarkable for its somewhat bell-shaped flowers before the sepals and petals are turned back. 76. Three-leafleted Passion-flower (P. trifoliata).— This species is easily distinguished from all others of the Tacsonia group by its leaves being divided into three separate leaflets. The whole plant, or at least the young parts, except the inside of the flowei's, is clothed with a dense, short, white, grey, or yellowish down. The leaflets are extremely variable in shape, from linear-lanceolate to broadly oval or elliptical, entire, and about 2 in. to 3 in. long. Stipules large, fringed, as are also the very large nearly orbicular involucral bracts. Flowers of medium size, rosy.red (Pearce), borne on very stout stalks from 3 in. to 4 in. long. A native of the mountains of Peru and New Grenada. Mr. Pearce, who collected for Messrs. Veitch, met with it at Huanuco, at an altitude of 11,000 ft. He describes it as an evergreen climber. I am not aware that he introduced living plants of it. Section II. — Bracts united at the base. 77. Harfcweg's Passion-flower (P. manicata ; Paxt. PI. Gard., t. 26). — A climbing species, with slender branches, young parts more or less pubescent, remarkable for its short calyx. tube. Leaves about 3 in. broad and long, three-lobed to about the middle; lobes rjunded, lateral, shorter than the central one. Petiole about three-duarters of an inch, beset with large glands. Stipules large, kidney-shaped or round, deeply toothed. Flowers of a rich brilliant scarlet, borne on a stalk from 1 in. to 2 in. long, and subtended by large, entire, hairy bracts, equalling the calyx-tube. Sepals and petals similar, except that the former are green outside and slightly keeled, the keel terminating in a short spur. This species is a native of the Andes of Peru, Ecuador, and New Grenada up to an elevation of 7000 ft. It was introduced by the Eoyal Horticultural Society, through their collector Hartweg, and figured by Paxton in 1850. In gardens this species commonly bears the name of P. ignea. 78. Cavanilles' Passion-flower (P. pedunoularis ; Cavauilles' Icones, pi. v., t. 426). — This species was in cultivation, according to Loudon, in 1815, but no figure of it exists in any of the magazines. The stems are angular, and only slightly hairy, and the leaves are very similar in shape to those of P. manicata, becoming nearly glabrous with age, and the various stipules are longer and irregu- larly out. The flowers, which are described as rose-coloured, are about 2i in. in diameter, and are borne ou stout peduncles 4 in. to 6 in. long, and the bracts are united very high up, forming a cup enclosing the very downy calyx-tube. Sepals very hairy on the out- side, and furnished with a short spur, rather longer than the rounded petals. Fruit hairy, spherical, about li in. in diameter. This inhabits the tropical region of Peru. 79. Velvety Passion-flower (P. mollissima; Bot. Mag., t. 4187). — A tall climber, clothed all over, including the tubular in. volucre, with a very soft down. Branches round, not angular. Leaves three-lobed, cordate in outline ; lobes oblong-lanceolate, acute, regularly toothed, the lateral, ones directed upwards ; petioles i in. to 1 in. long. Flowers pink with darker rose shadings, quite glabrous, borne on peduncles 2 in. to 3 in. long ; tube of the calyx green, about 4 in. long, glandular at the mouth, without any coronet. Sepals and petals similar ou the face, the former furnished with a short spur, which issues from just below the tip ou the outside. Stamens and styles not protruding far from the mouth of the tube, and the ovary just on a level with it. This valuable free, flowering greenhouse climber was sent home by Mr. W. Lobb to Messrs. Veitch [and by Mr. Hartweg to tho Horticultural Society at about the same time, in the year 1842. It inhabits Peru and New Grenada, ascending to an altitude of nearly 10,000 ft. A cool conservatory or greenhouse suits this plant best, and it is vei-y impatient of heat. 80. Variable Passion-flower (P. mixta).— This is a rather variable species of the mollissima type, differing from the species named in its angular stems and more coriaceous leaves, which are usually quite glabrous above. Dr. Masters arranges the forms under the following sub-species and varieties : — Sub-species 1, P. normalis (Passiflora Tacso, P. longiflora) ; stem, leaves, and tube of the flower glabrous, lobes of the leaves oblong-lanceolate, reticulate beneath, sometimes hoary ; petiole furnished with stalked glands. I have not seen this in cultivation. Sub-species 2, P. tomentosa, leaves hairy ou both surfaces or only beneath, three-lobed beyond the middle ; lobes ovate-laueeolate, serrate ; petiole with stalked glands ; involucre usually coloured slightly hairy. Variety apeciosa, stem almost terete, glabrous ; leaves glabrous above, tomeutose beneath, lobes oblong, lanceolate with remarkably hooked teeth ; involucre pubescent, unequally two or three lobed at the top. There is a very good plate of this in the " Florist and Pomologist," 1871, p. 169, from a plant that flowered very profusely the previous summer at Chiswick. It has rich, carnation-red flowers ou short stalks, and was introduced from New Grenada by Mr. Bowman. In this, as in all this set, tho coronet is very small. Sub-species 3, P. quitensis, stem velvety; leaves becoming glabrous above, velvety beneath, lobes ovate or ovate, oblong; petiole furnished with sessile glands; involucre pubescent, usually equally three-lobed at the summit. Variety P. eriantha, pubescence snowy white, nerves of the leaf strongly reticulated on the under surface. This has rose-pink flowers, and is figured in the " Botanical Magazine," t. 5750, from specimens grown in tho garden of J. A. Henry, of Edinburgh, sent thither by Professor Jameson, who describes it as a native of the Volcano of Pichincha, growing at the upper limit of the forest regions, from 11,000 to 13,000 ft. above the sea in a cold, foggy climate. It is an extremely ornamental climber for a cool house. 81. Polish.ed.leaved Passion-flower (P. glaberrima).— A tall, glabrous climber, with round or slightly angular branches. Leaves cordate, three-lobed, coriaceous, very glabrous, borne ou stalks about 2 in. long, with two to four glands near the base of the blade ; lobes broadly ovate. acute, with thick, fleshy teeth ; stipules large, an inch long. Flowers glabrous, about 6 in. long ; involucre coloured. This handsome species does not appear to be in cultivation yet. It is very distinct from all the others of this section in being perfectly glabrous in all its parts. The lateral lobes of the leaf diverge at a right angle and measure from 4 in. to 8 in. from tip to tip ; the colour of the flowers is not given, but from dried specimens it would appear to be a deep red. It inhabits the temperate regions of the Andes of Pern and Ecuador. 82. Small-leaved Passion-flower (P. parvifolia). — A very leafy, evergreen climber, with angular stems, slightly hairy when quite young, and small, three-lobed, coriaceous leaves, borne on relatively long petioles. Lobes 1 in. to 2 in. long, oval-oblong, serrated, glabrous above, slightly hairy beneath when young, lateral ones spreading scarcely so long as the central one. Flowers some, times as much as 6 in. long in the wild state, violet and rose, and exceedingly handsome, according to Mr. Pearce, who collected this species in Ecuador, at an elevation of 10,000 ft. to 12,000 ft. Invo. lucre li in. to 2 in. deep, of a more intense colour than the tube. This fine species does not appear to be in cultivation. It has a wide range of distribution in the mountains of Peru, Ecuador, and New Grenada. There are several other species of true Taosouias, all more or less ornamental, as Mandoni, with broadly three-lobed leaves, the lateral lobes much shorter than the central one, glabrous and wrinkled above, downy, with prominent veins beneath, free, involucral bracts, and very large white or pink flowers, downy outside ; rugosa, with undivided, wrinkled, ovate leaves, united, involucral bracts and large 20 THE GARDEN. [July 1, 1876. doep.ooloured flowers; ampullaoea and urceolata with three-lobed leaves, and remarkable in the tube of the flower having a spherical expansion at the base ; Matthewsi, of the molhssima type, but with glabrous leaves, cuneate at the base ; and tomentosa, anastomosans, and bicoronata, close allies of the same species. A Iiist of the Species and Varieties deseri^jed. The names in italics are either synonyms or varieties, or species inoidoutally mentioned under the respective numbers Most of those beloucing to the sub-genus Taesonia were published under that name° but as the same specific name has been invariably retained, it incidentally mentioned under the respective numbers. Most of those ing to tl name ; but as the same specil was not considered necessary or desirable to repeat the names again under Taesonia as synonyms. Actinia . adiantifolia adulterina alata . alba albida . amabilis amethystina anastomosans angusUfoUa angu^tifoUa untioquensis appendiculati arborea . aurantia . auriculata Banksi . hicoronata hiformis hryonoides Buclumani capsularis ciiiata . oincinnata cinnabarina clathrata coccinea cferulea cohru Ui coriacea cuprea . diffornds discolor cdulis . eriantha erythrophylla filameutosa filipes . lloribunda jloribunda fcfitida . fuljens^ . glaberrima glabra . rjlandulosa glauoa . glauca , . 59 1 glauca . . 281 ijossyplfoUa . G8 gracilens . 40 gracilis . 51 hederacea . 46 Hihni . . 42 Herbertiana . . 57 hirsi'M s . 82 holosericea . . 4 ignea . . 63 incarnata . 72 insigms . a . S Jamesoni . 1 Joriillensis . kermcsina . 8 lanceolata . 25 laurifoUa . . S2 ligalavis . 3 lonijijlora . 23 Lowei . . 49 lunata . . 16 lutea . ■ . 6 macrocarpa . . 51 maliformis . 26 Mandoni 5 raanicata . 45 7)icwmom£a . . 63 Matthewsi . 41 Maximiliana Medusoi 32 membranacea . 3 Middletoniana . 23 Miersi . . 53 mwuma . 80 mixta . a . 20 molhssima . . 58 Moorcaua . 21 mucrouata Murucoia ^ Neumann i . . G nigelliflora . . 45 nitida . . 81 ^lormo-lis . 28 oblongata . 41 odora . . 6( organensis . 63 67 24 4 12 77 52 73 74 19 66 69 43 36 80 36 18 23 41 35 82 77 17 82 23 19 54 50 41 4 SO 79 52 , 46 , 29 onychina pallida . parvifolia pedata . peduncularis . pendulitiora . perfoliata . phoiniceci picturata pinnatistipula princeps punctata 'punctata cxuadrangularis ;jaadriglandulosa quitensis racemosa Baddiana reflexiflora . riparia . rotundifolia . rubra sangiiinea sanguinolenta serrata serratifolia . sexflora . sicyoides speciosa stipulata suberosa SioaAzi . Tacso tomentosa tomentosa trifasoiata trifoliata triloba . trinervia truucata tuberosa tucumanonsis Van Volxemi Vespertilio . vitifolia . Warei . W. B. Hemslev. Bearing Reins off Mowing-machine Horses and Ponies. These should bo discarded. Hardly has the machine got into full swing, BO as to ease the draught, than the horse has to stop or turn round, and the speed is slackened, or the machine brought to a stand. still. 'The horse again bends forward for purchase, and, incredible to relate, is pulled up by an instrument of torture in the form of a bearing.rein. It is thus arrested in the exercise of its strength, and, at the same time made to suffer unnecessarily. Boaiiug.reins on can-iageorcart-horsesare Uindiiessitsolf compared with tboseon horses mowing. When a carriage is once started on a level road, the horse neither wants to use his shoulders nor head much ; but mowing con. sists in a great measure of turns and stoppages. At each fresh start the bearing-rein fetters the power and inflicts pain. Mowing is always bad enough without adding cruelty to weary sameness of walk, ing forwards and backwards for nine or ten mouths in the year. The least one could do, therefore, is to let the horso have the free use of its head and mouth.— D. T. PisH. The Scarlet Larkspur (Delphinium nudicaule).— Your commendation o( lhi» plant is well deserved. AHhouRh somewhat apt to damp off on level uround, it is a true jjorennial on rockwork, nnd has the good iiuality of keeping up a lonp succession of bloom. It is as easy to raise from seed as other Lark- spurs.—SiisiomcBpa. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINB8. Pelargoniums. — Zonal Pelargoniums are useful plants to suc- ceed the show and fancy kinds, as, owing to their continnous habit of flowering, they can be had in bloom at almost any time of the year by means of a little forethought as regards preparation. Cut- tings struck last summer or autumn, if they have been potted on as recommended earlier in the season and encouraged to make growth, will be quite as useful as older plants, as it is by no means desirable to grow them too large when wanted for ordinary decorative pur- poses, especially where glass accommodation is limited. Keep them as near the glass as possible, giving them plenty of air and no shade as the jiots get full of roots, in which state only will they bloom freely ; give them manure-water once or twice a week, this will be found much better than patting them in larger pots. Some of the later autumn. struck cuttings should be moved into 6-in or 7-in. pots for winter flowering, and at once plunged in ashes in an open sunny situation, where the growth, as it is made through the summer, will get thoroughly solidified; this is essential as regards their flowering freely in the winter, for if the growth be at all soft when they are submitted to the little warmth necessary to induce them to bloom, they will run to leaf; the chief object through the hot summer weather is to get the shoots almost as hard as dried sticks, with small, stunted leaves, and the balls a compact mass of roots. Amongst scarlets, the best hitherto has been Vesuvius, but this excellent variety will now, no doubt, be surpassed by the semi, double kind called Wonderful, which is a sport from Vesuvius with the habit of that kind in everything except the eemi.double con. ditiou of the blooms, which in this, as in other flowers when double, are much more persistent than when single. Any of the free- flowering pink varieties, such as Christine Improved, will be found good companions to the above.named scarlet ; but although plants in this section have much to recommend them for the above purposes, I should by no means advise their being grown, as they often are, in such quantities as to limit the space for other things, and give the structures in which they are kept the appearance of being nothing but houses devoted to Pelargoniums. Collections of any species of flower, particularly such as require the protection of glass houses at some time of the year, are generally a mistake, preclnding the possibility of snflicient variety, which is the greatest charm in a garden. Chrysanthemums. — Plants of these that were struck in spring, if not already in their blooming pots, should at once be placed in them ; later-struck plants require pots quite as large as those that were struck at the end of December or beginning of January, and for or. dinary decorative uses will do as well, but under no course of treat- ment will they produce such a number of perfectly developed flowers, simply because the growth has not the chance of getting so thoroughly matured, which, even in the case of soft-wooded subjects, is indispensable. The earliest sti uck pl.auts that wero transferred to their flowering-pots somo time ago should, so soon as the roots get fully ill possession of the soil, receive a regular supply of manure water. Even to Chrysanthemums it is possible to apply it too strong, but they will bear it much less diluted than most plants. The fre- quent advice given not to nso liquid stimulants to Chrysanthemums until the flowers are set is a mistake. Chrysanthcuiums, like most other Chinese plants, are exceedingly gross feeders, and to grow them well they require, in all stages of their existence, the applica- tion of rich manure.water such as few plants will bear, and, in the absence of which, their flowers will neither bo so perfect nor abun- dant, nor the plants clothed with foliage down their leaves. Chinese Primulas. — In order to have these robust and well flowered in autumn and winter, their wants must be well attended to. They do not like full exposure to the sun, but nevertheless they want plenty of light and air, and, at the same time, they do not liko the soil saturated with water. The most suitable place for them dur. ing tho summer months is in an ordinary garden fiamo placed so as to face the north, on the north side of a wall sufliciontly high enough to screen them from tho sun during the hottest part of the day. Such frames should either be so shallow that the plants will stand with their heads close to the glass, or they should bo filled up with ashes on which tho plants may stand thus elevated, otherwise, the leaves get weak and drawn, in which condition not only are tho plants unsightly and liable to damp oil' in tho winter, but they can never be induced to produce more than half the quantity of flower they will do if well jirepared in tho early stages of their existence. Cinerarias. — These also require to be equally well looked to, but the treatment which they need is different in some respects from that required by Primulas ; Cinerarias, too, canuot bear full exposure to the sun, but they want all the light they can have by keeping them close to the glass ; they also need a fair amount of air, bat must have July 1, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 21 the atmosphere around them damp by keeping the ashes on which they stand always moist ; they likewise require their roots being kept constantly wetter than those of Primulas. The moment green fly appears, dip the affected plants in Tobacco or Quassia water. Peaches and Nectarines on Open Walls.— As these in. crease in size attend to thinning any that may be too thick, bearing in mind that it is a decided loss to have them too crowded. When more are left on the trees than they can support not only is perma- nent injury done to the trees, but the weight of the crop is by no means increased in proportion to the numbers grown. When too many are left there is a preponderance of skin and stones in place of f ull-fleshed, large, handsome fruit ; gradually, and not all at once, ex- pose each fruit to the full action of the sun by removing all the leaves that obstruct its coming directly upon them ; by this means only can the requisite colour be imparted to them, and without which the largest examples are deficient in both flavour and appearance. At the same time do not by any means denude the trees of leaves too much, or the root power will be correspondingly weakened : where the portion of a leaf at its extremity only overhangs a fruit, break the leaf off in the middle, the part that is left, if free from insects, will remain in a healthy state upon the tree to fulfil its allotted functions BO far as its reduced dimensions will permit, as long as if it had been left entire. This I have proved in practice times too numerous to mention. Never remove an entire leaf to thus expose the fruit to sun and air, when taking away one.half will answer the object. Keep the trees regularly sj ringed with clean water, standing sideways in doing the work so as to get the water well to the underside of the leaves, or it will only be partially effectual; give abundance of water at the roots also when the weather is dry ; remove all superfluous shoots so that the full strength of the trees will be directed to the production of good bearing wood for another year. Strawberries. — Those who have the convenience and are desirous to grow pot Strawberries should at once see to laying some runners in pots as soon as any are ready ; there is nothing like doing this work in time, for upon the thorough preparation of the plants depends the crop they can be induced to bear. For the purpose 3-in. pots should be used ; put a bit of turfy loam in the bottom of each for drainage, fill up with fine rich soil of a moderately heavy nature such as accords best with this fruit, and then with an ordinary planting trowel make holes in the ground where the pots are to be, in which plunge them up to the rim ; so managed they will not dry so quickly, consequently, a good deal of labour will be saved in watering, for if ever allowed to get very dry they will be seriously injured ; after the pots are plunged, the runners must be placed on them, laying a stone the size of a hen's egg upon each to keep it in its place until rooted, when they will need transferring to 6.in. pots. Kitchen Garden.— Continue to plant out successional crops of Cauliflowers, Broccoli, and Winter Greens, choosing, if possible, showery weather. It is only in peculiar soils and situations that very late-sown Peas do much good ; in most places, it put in the ground after this time they produce little, but where they are found to succeed, a few of some early kind may at once be sown, choosing the most open available spot, where they will be under the full influence of sun and air, which are the best preservatives against mildew, which is usually the greatest bane of late Peas. Greenhouses. The multitude of flowering plants available at this season for decorating the above structures is apt to make one forgetful that during the autumn and winter such subjects become scarce, unless due preparation be now made by growing on others of a suitable character to supply their places. The ever-popular Chrysanthemum is sure to suggest itself for this purpose, and plants of these should at this time be in a forward state and receive the attention their merits deserve. Their strong-growing nature and robust habit render frequent potting unnecessary ; they may therefore be trans- ferred at once to the sizes requisite for flowering them in. These should be proportionate to the strength of the plants and suited to the varieties to be treated ; for the large-flowering kinds require more root-room than the compact and less vigorous Pompones. There is, however, little danger of overpotting, provided ordinary care in watering be taken for a short time afterwards, till the plants get possession of the new soil. After receiving their final shift, they should be plunged in an open situation where they can get the full benefit of the sun during the greater portion of the day, but in Buch a position as to be sheltered from strong winds, as no amount of support by way of stakes and tying will prevent them from becoming injured after they get heavily weighted with foliage if the autumnal gales can attack them. To prevent worms effecting an entry through the bottoms of the pots, they should either be placed on small pieces of slates or tiles, or a bed of coal ashes made thoroughly solid, as the constant watering Chrysanthemums require is sure to attract these plant-destroyers, and unless means be adopted to keep them out, they either block the drainage or perforate the ball in such a manner as to let the water pass through without benefiting the plants. In either case, the mischief they cause is equally bad, and therefore no pains should be spared to prevent their ingress. Any subjects that may show signs of their presence should be carefully knocked out when the ball is tolerably moist, as then they may generally be found in the outer cavities, from which they can be readily removed and destroyed. Almost any kind of plunging material will answer, as the object in using it i? merely to protect the pots from the direct influence of the sun, for when that ia allowed to strike them with full force it is almost impossible to keep them properly supplied with water, an insufficiency of which soon affects the health of the plants, and shows itself in naked stems, disfigured leaves, and a great paucity of good blooms. Any that are becoming pot.bound, and which it may not be desirable to shift into larger sizes, should now be well supplied with manure-water, which may be given them at least twice or thrice a week, or even more frequently it applied in a weak state, a course that is far better in all cases than stronger doses at long intervals. Such moisture, loving plants as Chrysanthemums and others of a like nature, are much handier for water when they can be placed near the margins of walks, but in such positions plunging material of any kind would have an untidy, objectionable appearance ; to meet this difficulty, the pots mav be dropped into others of large size, which will afford in part the' shade and shelter so necessary to prevent a too rapid desic- cation of the roots. It often occurs in furnishing, that small plants, it healthy and well grown, are more serviceable than such as have attained a large size, as they can be grouped in amongst others or used in positions, such as rooms, &c., where the latter could not be accommodated. Good Chrysanthemums may be obtained tor pur. poses of this kind by layering some ot the strong leading shoots and keeping them well supplied with water till rooted, when they may be sevOTed and attended to with the ordinary collection. Solanums ot the capsicastrum type should now be encouraged as much as possible in order to induce them to make an early growth and get them into bloom, as much ot their usefulness for winter decoration depends on the time the berries are set. See that the plants are well supplied with water, as dryness at the roots is sure to engender red spider on the leaves, and cause the flowers to fall. A slight mulching ot half-rotten manure laid round their stems as far as the roots extend, will be of the greatest service in keeping them in a uniform state ot moisture, and thereby contribute to a successful "set." Stop any strong shoots that appear likely to take the lead and throw the plants out ot shape. Stake and tie to afford the necessary support before they get heavy-headed or liable to injury from the force ot strong winds. liinum. trigynum, a good old winter-blooming plant, will now require the closest attention to make it in anything like good condi. tion, as few subjects are more liable to the attacks ot red spider, or more quickly injured when so infested. Nothing but frequent syringings, moderate shade for a few hours during the hottest part of the day, and a constantly uniform state of moisture maintained atthe roots, will keep it free from these troublesome pests. In syringing, the water should be applied with some force, and in such a way that the under side ot the leaves becomes wetted, as it is generally in those positions these little marauders effect a lodgment. A pit or frame where these plants can be shut up closely immediately after being damped down, suits them best at this season ot the year, as there they are more under control, and can be treated in accordance with their requirements much better than if placed among other plants. liibonias.— These seldom flower well unless fully exposed to sun and air, and this should be done as soon as the growth is sufificiently forward, that the young shoots may become ripe and matured. Shift on into larger pots as they require more root-room, using a light, rich soil for the purpose, and syringe overhead to keep them clear of red spider. Later en in the season the plants should be placed out in the open air or have the lights removed from them altogether, and, when so treated, there are few things that flower with the same amount ot freedom or are more useful tor decorating the greenhouse or conservatory during the dull months of winter and early spring. The growth and habit of L. floribnnda and L. penrhosiensis is so dens? and uniform that little attention by way of stopping and tram, ing is requisite to keep them in shape, but the fragile branches of the latter generally require a little support, which they should receive at once, to keep them erect. Salvias. — These are indispensable where a supply of winter, bloominc plants is desired, and when well grown, make a gorgeous display. Associated with light.ooloured Chrysanthemums and the 22 THE GARDEN. [July 1, 1876. grand old Eiohardia fethiopica, the ofEeot is most striking, their brilliant crimson flowers appearing all the brighter from the contrast afforded by the pore white of the latter. To keep them clothed with healthy green foliage down to the pots, they mast have liberal treat- ment and never be allowed to suffer from want of water or the requi- site root-room. In re-potting, give them a good rich loam, and if the plants be required of large size, they should at once be shifted into 12-in. or 15-in. pots, in which they will make fine speoimensif properly looked to and supplied with water. Stand them on a good hard bottom of coal ashes to prevent worms penetrating to the roots, and in such a position as to be sheltered from strong winds, as their brittle nature renders them liable to injury despite all that can be done in staking and tying. The pots of these, like Chrysanthemums and other plants that have to be grown in full sun, must be shaded in some way, or there will be much difficulty in keeping them properly supplied with water and the plants in a healthy condition, on account of the injuri. CUB effect such a rapid drying of the soil has on them. Richardias that have done blooming, or are wanted early in th^ winter for that purpose, should be planted out at once in partially shaded situations where water can be easily administered, of which they will take unlimited quantities. In turning them out, dig and mix some manure well in with the soil in the positions it is intended the plants should occupy, and in planting keep the crowns low that a slight basin may be formed round them for the purpose of holding sufficient water, in order to soak their roots well. To prevent the escape of this by evaporation they should be mulched by having some half rotten manure laid round them to shade the soil and prevent it from cracking open, which is invariably the case after frequent appli- cations of water. Keep them free from blooms so as to concentrate the strength of the plants in forming fresh crowns, and induce them to make a vigorous growth, without which they will not flower freely when wanted. Treated in this way, they produce at least twice the quantity of bloom that can be got from them when confined to pots daring the summer, independently of the saving of labour there is in watering and attending to them. Spiraeas. — These, like Callas, are half aquatic in their nature, and seldom get enough water if confined to pots ; after they have done blooming, they should therefore be planted ont and treated after the same manner as recommended for the latter. Before doing so, they should be divided, if it be desired to have them in the same sized pots again at the time of lifting, as the effects of any mutilation of the roots that must necessarily take place in so doing is more readily overcome now than when the plants are going to rest in the autumn. A little fresh rich soil filled in round the balls of the plants and made solid and firm, will be of the greatest assistance in inducing them to make fresh roots and strong, vigorous crowns, without which their capacity for blooming will be of the most limited kind. As soon as they get a start, manure water may be frequently given them with the most beneficial results, and a syringing or damping overhead is equally acceptable to them. — J. Sheppakd, Woolverstone Farh. Orchids. On hot days some difficulty will be experienced in keeping the temperature of the houses down to the prescribed limit, for, although a few degrees above the proper point in summer are not of much importance, it is best to keep as near as possible to the temperature recommended. Where the shading is so arranged that by running on fixed supports it does not rest on the glass, regnlating the tern, perature is not so difficult, but where it lies flat on the glass, the heat is not easily kept down without giving too much air. In such cases I find it an excellent plan, on settled hot days in summer, to lift the roller after the blind has been let down, and place four (or more according to the length of the roof) blocks of wood, about G in. square, or 32.Bized pots under it, so that a cutrent of air may pass between the blind and the glass ; of course this is not so good as fixed supports for the shading, nor is it practicable in all cases, but where it can be managed it is surprising what a difference it makes in the tem- perature of the house, which, although it may still bo hot, has no longer a feeling of oppression about it ; this simple arrangement is par. ticularly beneficial to the cool-house Odontoglossums, their worst enemy being a dry heat. The houses should all be damped down three or four times a day, but the walks, unless they are furnished with trellis work, should not have puddles left in them, for nothing detracts more from the enjoyment of the flowers than to have to walk through water to look at them ; the cold house, where circum- stnnccs moy render it necessary to have water in the walk, should be supplied with a trellis in order that the plants may be visited without having to walk in the water. The watering must be regularly attended to each morning, and the syringe should be as carefully used as the watering-pot. Admit air freely and uniformly. The temperatures during July should be East India or warm bouse from 75' to 85" by day and 70° at night ; that of the Cattleya or intermediate house from 70' to 80' by day and 65° at night; and that of the Odonto. glossum or cool house from 60° to 70° by day and 55° at night ; the higher day temperatures are for sun-heat. Those who have but one house should treat it as an intermediate house, and arrange the plants according to their respective requirements. — James O'Bkiek. Indoor Fruit Department. Vines. — Late Grapes, intended for long keeping, should be thinned more freely than Grapes for present use, for bunches that become too crowded can never be kept successfully. They should be made thin enough to permit a free circulation of air around every berry. Such varieties as Lady Downes and Alicantes should be thinned as soon as set, otherwise the berries are apt to be injured, and the operation cannot be done so expeditiously ; push them onwards, as their flavour will far exceed that of those ripened during the short, dull days. Wherever the berries are still green, keep up a good supply of moisture during bright weather, shutting up as early as can be done without overheating, and applying fresh air as daylight is diminishing. Examine borders where Vines are fully established, and prevent them from becoming dry. Where the berries have begun to colour, give the soil a thorough soaking and well mulch it with short manure, when no further watering will be necessary. The same directions apply to outside borders when dry. Increase the air when colouring takes place, and in dull weather prevent it from becoming sluggish, otherwise the flavour will be impaired ; maintain a brisk night temperature, which may, however, be alloT.'ed to fall below 70° in the morning. Keep ripe Grapes cool and airy, and free from insects, otherwise the foliage will drop pre. maturely, and serious results will show themselves the following year. Before colouring takes place examine all bunches left too thick, and remove sufficient berries to prevent over-crowding. Encourage all young Vines planted this season ; attend to them particularly in the way of water, syringing, and keeping the foliage clean. Allow them to carry a heavy leafage, and if not wanted for early forcing, let them grow as long as they will, provided they ripen thoroughly. Pot Vines, and others for early forcing, should not be allowed to make lateral growths; on the contrary, they should be strictly pinched, retaining the main leaves as long as possible. Shift on into 9-incli pots Vines for next year's planting ; let the soil be of a sharp character, but not too rich, and the pots well drained. Figs. — Prevent these from becoming dry, bearing in mind at the same time the condition of the crops ; where the first fruits have been gathered, and the drainage good, let the trees be mnlcbed and well saturated with manure water. Apply the syringe freely, and keep up a moist, warm atmosphere, in order to encourage the second swelling of the fruit. Plants in pots should be liberally watered with liquid manure, and top-dressed with rich materials. — J. Huntek, LanMon Castle. Eitohen Garden. There is no such period as a " slack time " for the kitchen gar- dener; at least, I have not yet been able to discover it, for no sooner is one crop planted or sown than another requires thinning, another earthing and weeding, and another lifting or harvesting, in order that the ground may be again prepared for cropping. Such is now the case with Shallots and Garlic, which, in many instances, will be ready to be taken up ; they should not be allowed to remain after the tops have died off, but pulled up and left on the ground a day or two to dry, and afterwards tied up in convenient bundles for use, and hung up in the vegetable shed or other airy, cool, dry room. The ground where they have been grown, it well dressed when they were planted, will not now require digging, bnt simply levelling and weeding, drawing drills afterwards for the sowing of Endive, or black-seeded Bath Cos Lettuce for early winter use. Potato ground from which the crop is now being lifted should be at once cropped (without digging) either with Snow's Winter Broccoli or Veitoh's Autumn Giant Cauliflower. Some do not wait for tho Potatoes being dug, but plant between the rows previously, a practice not to be recommended, as frequently both crops are injured thereby. I mnoh prefer to prick out tho Broccoli, &o., from the seed-bed temporarily, and plant them permanently as soon as the Potatoes are cleared. The earliest crops of Peas are now nearly over, and as soon as they can be got off the ground should be deeply dug, or forked over, and sown with Early Horn Carrots or Turnips ; a good breadth of the latter should now bo sown, and for this sowing Chirk Castle Black stone is the best kind. Tho best ground is generally devoted to Peas, and it is also invariably well dressed previous to sowing them ; therefore if this be not required for Carrots or Turnips, it onght to be in good condition for Strawberry plants, which, it planted now, will produce a full crop of fruit next season. I never allow these to stand more than two seaaoua without renewals, therefore by-and-by, when the July 1, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 23 ripe frnit has been gathered, all that are two yeara old will be cleared off, and the ground re-cropped with late Broccoli, Cottagers' Kale, or Coleworts. Ground that is now being cleared of Cauliflowers should be sprinkled with guano, and be deeply dug, when it will be in excellent order for the earliest supply of Winter Spinach ; a first sowing of the prickly kind should be made within the next fortnight. A final sowing of French Beans should now be made, selecting a dry, ■warm, sheltered position for them, or they may get injured by frost when they are just beginning to pod. I have sown as late as the 20th of last month, and have had good crops, but as a rule it is not advisable to sow in the open ground after the first week in June. The same remarks apply to Peas, except' that first early kinds may be sown as late as the third week of last month -with a fair prospect of success, if treated liberally in the matter of mulching and watering, should the month of August prove to be dry and hot. Mildew is so frequently destructive to late Peas that every precaution should be taken to prevent its attacks, and for this purpose nothing is so eifectnal as sowing the Peas in trenches that have been as heavily manured as is usual for Celery. The main crop of Cabbages will now be in use, and when cutting them strip off the bottom leaves from the stumps in order that the sprouts now being formed may have room to develop them, selves. The ground should be deeply stirred either with a fork or hoe, and if irrigation be possible let it be done ; the sprouts often prove so valuable, and are certainly more tender than the heads, therefore a little labour in this direction is well bestowed. It will shortly be time to sow Cabbages for autumn planting. The spring, sown Onion ground is always reserved for our main crop of Cabbages, and as it is late before these can be got ofi, we seldom sow before the 1st of August, but where ground is plentiful sow at once. Atkins' Matchless and Hill's Dwarf are two of the best kinds. If it be thought desirable to preserve the stock of any good variety of vegetables, such as Cauliflowers, Lettuce, &o., select the most perfect types for seeding, and stake or otherwise mark them in order that they do not get cut when the crop is being used. No two kinds of Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, or Cauliflowers, should ever be seeded together it the stock be desired pure, for bees are wonderful hybridists, but not particular as to how or on what they operate. The rains with which we have been favoured have marvellously advanced the growth of all crops, weeds included, and these on every favourable opportunity should be kept in check by hoeing or scratch- ing the ground, even when no weeds are visible. Tomatoes are now growing freely, and will require to have their growths trained or tied in ; if there be a tendency to strong growth, repress it by severe pinching of the lateral growth, an operation which also promotes fruitfulness. If the frnit set too thickly, thin it out, and remove all the large leaves that keep the light off it. As a rule, high feeding is not necessary for Tomatoes, but if bearing freely they may be assisted by an occasional watering with weak liquid manure. Several kinds of herbs will soon be ready for cutting and preserving in a dry state ; Mint, Peppermint, Sage, Thyme, and Penny Royal are all now fit to cut, and should be tied up in small bunches and dried as quickly as possible, in order that they may retain their green colour. Small saladings, such as Mustard, Cress, Chervil, Radishes, and Onions all require assiduous attention, in order to keep up an unbroken supply ■ in all gardens, large or small ; it is well to give a man charge of this department, and make him responsible for the regular perform, ance of its duties. — W. Wildsmith, Heckfield. Forest Trees and Underwood. The past season has been one of the worst on record for bark peeling ; however, it has been most favourable for drying and har. vesting the bark, all of which has been secured in good condition. Underwood cut last season should have been cleared out of the copses ere this, and the tops of the felled trees should be tied up as faggots and removed as early as possible, in order that the growth on the underwood stools may not get broken down or otherwise injured. Where charcoal is required, the wood should now be carted to the place where it is intended to be burnt, and corded up, keeping it off the ground so as to induce drying ; peeled Oak branches (if sufficient can be had) and Beech make the best and cleanest char, coal, especially the former. In recently-formed plantations, where there is a strong growth of Furze, Brambles, Bracken, &c., the trees should be liberated sufficiently to allow them room to develop themselves ; where ground game is numerous, a moderate growth of rough vegetation round the necks of the plants is a source of protection against the destructive ravages of hares and rabbits, and n exposed situations a crop of undergrowth acts as a shelter during severe weather. Honeysuckle in plantations is very injurious to young trees, for in a season or two it climbs to the top of the leading shoot and entirely stops the circulation of sap and almost invariably kills the plant. Level in cart and other traclts on green rides caused by the haulage of timber and underwood ; root out Thistles, Docks, and other objectionable weeds that are growing on Grassy verges and glades in view of carriage drives ; trim off rank weed growth amongst shrubs and ornamental trees; foreshorten competing leaders or any side branches that are growing out of pro. portion on Conifers and ornamental deciduous trees. Any branches of trees that overhang roads and require foreshortening, should now have that operation performed, care being taken to leave sufficient foliage to keep the branch alive, and, if possible, sufficient to hide the mark occasioned by pruning ; this may generally be effected by cutting off the branch close in front of twiggy sprays. Live branches should in no case be cut off close to the stem ; but, on the other hand, dead limbs should be neatly sawn off close to the bole, and the wound tarred over, which will prevent Moss and Fungus growth, and in time the bark will grow over it. Any branches that have been damaged or broken by the falling of timber, should be cut off as far as the fracture extends. In the nursery, the destruc- tion of weeds must not be neglected after the late copious rains, for they will now grow apace. Conifers should now be carefully examined to see that Pine beetles and their larvaB are not at work amongst the young shoots of the Pinus family. I have found this season that Hylurgus piniperda and a beetle larva are very numerous, chiefly on Scotch and Austrian Pines, some hundreds having been destroyed in the nursery this season ; they are generally found in the leading shoots of the current season's growth. — Geobge Bekry, Longleat. Clematises free and pruned down. — In looking amongst Clematises on trellises, it will be observed that in some cases the growth is all at the top and is there too heavy, while below there is nothing but bare stems ; in other cases the trellises are richly and uniformly clothed, the result being in the first case a somewhat ugly boss of leaf and flower, in the second an even sheet almost from the ground- line. All the robust and fast-running varieties should be periodically cut down either to within an inch or two of the ground, or to some height above the ground-line suitable to the particular circumstances. The result of cutting close down is the production of a number of strong shoots, which produce large leaves and fine flowers from the very base or from a little above it ; whereas when the plants are allowed to run for years they form all their growth at the very summit of the trellis, and the main body of the perpendicular walls is altogether unclothed. The case is illustrated here at the present time iu an interesting manner ; some plants of Jackmani on a trellis have had their own way for seven years, and have got up 15 ft. and stretched away from the top of the trellis to shake hands with a Hornbeam, and now they have mixed with the Hornbeam and adorn it with glorious festoons, while the trellis itself, to which their stems are attached, is bare, save for the network of branches interwoven with it like a spider's web. Other plants in the front of a Fern, house are clothed to the ground and form a beautiful sheet of leafage and flowers, the result simply of having been cut close back as soon as they began to appear leggy. For a general rule once in three years is often enough to cut them down, but a better rule is to cut ■ when the operation is obviously necessary. — " Gardeners' Magazine." Pacific Coast Plants.^Inthe February part of the "Proceedings of the American Academy," Mr. Sereno Watson gives us three articles, one on the Flora of Guadalupe — a small island off the coast of Lower California; another, a list of plants collected on the same island by Dr. Palmer ; the third, descriptions of now plants, chiefly Californian. The last contains many things that cultivators will be anxious to see. There are three new Lupines, all blue-flowered. Four new species of Clover give Mr. Watson a chance to revise the whole of North American Trifolinms. He makes thirty-nine species in all. Sophora Arizonica and Parkinsonia Torreyana, should make, according to the " Gardeners' Monthly," valuable shrubs for the Southern States. The beautiful family of annuals, Mentzelia, receives a new addition in M. dispersa. A new Dogwood from California is Cornns Torreyi ; it has loose cymes of white berries, with the stones curiously crowned with tubercles. Reference is also made to a curious Palm, with leaves as thready as the well-known Yucca filamentosa, and of which we have had specimens sent us by Mr. Rock and others. Mr. Watson says it is a Brahea, and introduced into cultivation as B. filamentosa. He describes two allied species — — one from Guadalupe Island as B. edulis, the other, if a real Brahea, as B. armata, from 80 miles below San ; Diego. A Cypripedium collected by many botanists in past years, and near C. parviflorum, is now made C. oocidentale. A small, white-flowered shrub from Southern Arizona, allied to Spirsea, is made Vauquelinia Torreyi. Guadalupe Island is 26 miles by 10 miles, and is 100 miles west of the coast of Lower California. One would suppose from its southern latitude that the plants would be of a tender character, corresponding 24 THE GARDEN. [July 1, 1876. with that on the mainland, but a glance at the list shows a compara- tively hardy class. But this is accounted for when we read that the island is in the midst of the current, which on that side flows down from the North seas ; and this should make the flora of a somewhat similar character, as regards hardiness, to that of England, which receives the warmth of the northward flowing or Gnlf stream ; still the winters are not quite so severe as the English, and the summers are often hot and dry. The Palm, Brahea ednlis, grows 40 ft. high. EEPOET OF THE SEWAGE CONFEKENCE. The Chairman of the Conference, and the Executive Committee, after having considered the information furnished from the various localities, as well as the facts brought forward during the Conference, submit the following as the conclusions at which they have arrived : — 1. In certain localities, where land at a reasonable price can be procured, with favourable natural gradients, with soil of a suitable quality, and in suHioient quantity, a sewage farm, if properly con. ducted, is apparently the best method of disposing of water.carried sewage. It is essential, however, to bear in mind that a profit should not be looked for by the locality establishing the sewage farm, and only a moderate one by the farmer. 2. With regard to the various processes based upon subsidence, precipitation, or filtration, it is evident that by some of them a sufficiently purified efiiuent can be produced for discharge, without injurious result, into water-courses and rivers of sufficient magnitude for its considerable dilution ; and that for many towns, where land is not readily obtained at a mode- rate price, those particular processes afford the most suitable means of disposing of water.carried sewage. It appears further that the sludge, in a mannrial point of view, is of low and uncertain com- mercial value ; that the cost of its conversion into a valuable manure will preclude the attainment of any adequate return on the outlay and working expenses connected therewith, and that means must there, fore be used for getting rid of it without reference to possible profit. 3. In towns where a water.carried system is employed, a rapid flow, thorough ventilation, a proper connection of the house drains and pipes with the sewers, and their arrangement and maintenance in an eificient condition, are absolutely essential as regards health ; hitherto sufficient precautions have rarely been taken for efficiently ensuring all the foregoing conditions. 4. With regard to the various dry systems, where collection at short intervals is properly carried out, the result appears to be satisfactory, but no really profitable appli. cation of any one of them appears as yet to have been accomplished. 5. The old midden system, in populons districts, should be discon. tinned and prohibited by law. 6. Sufficient information was not brought forward at the Conference to enable the Committee to expiess an opinion in regard to any of the foreign systems. 7. It was conclusively shown that no one system for disposing of sewage could be adopted for universal use ; that different localities require different methods, to suit their special peculiarities, and also that, as a rule, no profit can be derived at present from sewage utilization. 8. For health's sake, without consideration of commercial profit, sewage and excreta must bo got rid of at any cost. The Executive Committee, whilst abstaining from submitting any extensive measures, recommend that the prevention of dangerous effects from sewage gases should receive the immediate attention of the Legislature. —Signed by the Right Hon. James Stausfeld, M.P., Chairman of the Conference. Members of the Executive Committee : Lord Alfred S. Churchill, Chairman of the Council ; F. A. Abel, P.E.S., President of the Chemical Society ; Sir Henry Cole, K.C.B. ; Captain Douglas Galton, R.E., C.B., F.R.S. ; Lieut..Col. E. F. Du Cane, E.E., C.B., Surveyor-General of Prisons. The LiNDiEY Likrary.— It may not be generally known that this is a free public library, open alike to Fellows and non-Fellows of the Royal Horticultural Society. The rules framed by the trustees are couched in the most liberal spirit, it being their desire that the advantages of the library shall be as extensively enjoyed as circum. stances will permit. A considerable number of persons, therefore, have availed themselves of the opportunities accorded them, under certain restrictions, of borrowing books; bnt the trustees would gladly see many more persons avail themselves of this privilege, and desire it to be known that this advantage is offered as freely to those who are not Fellows of the Royal Horticultural Society as to those who are members of that body. Among the circumstances which tend to check the clue development and utility of the library may be mentioned :— The little knowledge that the horticultural public has of the advantages within its reach ; the want of a proper room, exclusively devoted to the purposes of the library ; the impossibility, with the present limited funds at the disposal of the trustees or of the society, of providing the sufficiently constant attendance of a qualified librarian, or of issuing a printed catalogue of the books, &c. ; the scanty income of the library, amounting to only about £38 per annum — a sum inadequate for the purchase of horticultural and botanical books and periodicals, and for the expenses connected with the proper maintenance of the same. Since July, 1872, 260 volumes have been added to the library, at a cost of about £200. These were partly obtained by way of exchange, seventy. six volumes (which were either duplicates, or which were not needed for the purposes of the library) having been disposed of for £50 lis. 6d. The addition to the library, therefore, consists of about 200 volumes, costing about £150. This expenditure was in a great measure necessitated by the number of arrears of periodicals, which had been discontinued after the death of Dr. Lindley. The trustees have deemed it advis- able to bring the matter before the horticultural public in the hope that by increasing the available funds, or by donations of books, memoirs, pamphlets, &c., the utility of the library as an independent means of promoting scientific and practical horticnlinre may be enhanced, and its benefits shared by a much larger number of persons than heretofore. Communications, books, &o., intended for the library should be addressed to Mr. W. B. Hemsley, Boyal Horticul. tural Society, South Kensington. LAW. Right to Remove Trees Confined to Nurserymen. — Recently, at a special sitting of the Darlington County Court, an action (Long- thorno v. Raine) respecting the removal of trees, &a., was heard. Plaintiff sought to recover £50 damages for the removal and destruction of fruit trees. Plaintiif stated that he was a garJouer at Neesham, and that he bought some property occupied by defendant, upon which there was a number of fruit trees. There were 500 full-grown Gooseberry trees on the land, which had been reduced to 420. Some of the Gooseberry trees had been cut off and stuck in the ground. lu addition, there had been about 700 young Gooseberry trees and GO Currant trees taken away, the latter being too old for proper removal. There had also been Raspberry trees, Plum trees, and Rhubarb roots taken away, while Strawberry roots had been dug up and turned over. Defendant had a cart on which he styled himself a '* market gardener." Defendant sold spring trees, but not large trees. Defendant had agreed to let plaintiff have the trees, &c., at a valuation, but afterwards changed his mind. Several witnesses, gardeners, and others were called to prove the damage and to speak as to whether defendant was a nurseryman or gardener. Mr. Stevenson argued, on behalf of plaintiff, that no one but a nurseryman had a right to remove trees, and defendant was only a market gardener. Mr, Clay- hills held that, as defendant was a market gardener, he held aright to remove the trees. The judge, however, held a different opinion, and gave a verdict for £45 and costs. NOTES AND QUESTIONS-VARIOUS. Canterbury Bells,— A large bed o£ this beautiful Campanula is now in bloom at the Bedfont Seed Grounds, near Honnslow. The colours of the flowers are many and varied, there beine probably twenty or more diverse shades, and many of the blooms are semi-doublo,*and even quite double. When cat they make beautiful nosoKays. — B. Papaver umbrosum.— Some flowers of this Poppy, sent to ns by Mr. Thompson, of Ipswich, Bhow it to be remarkably brilliant and effective, though now the blooms are inevitably sniallcr than earlier ones. The colour being a duzzlinp Bcarlet with a jet black blotch on each petal, a mass of it must be a grand sight. It is no doubt an annual, but seeds of it seem to require to bo sown in the outumn. It grows about 2 ft. high, and has a habit like that of P. Rbitos. The striking black blotch, which is bo conspicuous on both sides of the petals, is sometimes margined with ashy -grey on the inner face, but not by any means invariably so. Apple Tree taken Possession of hy a Kose.— In a field not far from Newland Church, Worcestershire, is a largo Apple tree, the head of which was blown ofl" some years ago, and tbo cavity in the centre has been taken posses- sion of by a wild Rose, the roots of which, doubtless, roach the earth through the trunk. The Rose has formed a head 8 ft. or 9 ft. in diameter, which is at present covered with hundreds of lovely pink blossoms, and, being surrounded by a fringe of Apple branches covered with foliage, it has the appearance of a gigantic bomiuct, the cftect of which, viewed from a distance, is very striking. W. Cox, Mmlrttfield Court. Outbreak of Potato Disease.— On the 23rd mst. I observed, for the first time, unmistakable signs of this disease in a plantation consisting of the Rector of Woodstock, and notwithstanding the brilliant weather of the last few days it continues to spread. To-day (Juno 28th) I hnvo found several planta affected in a pieco of Early American Rose. Last season the disease was seen for the first time here on the -ith of July, and as this is a late season, there is reason to fear that the result may bo oven more disastrous than in any former year,- J. Bbil, SIrailifieUltaye, Uanti. Golden Elder.— I can confirm that all has been said in favour of this by " Forester " (see p. 008, Vol IX.). It is especially beautiful in early summer- not far behind, inilecd, the Croton varicgalum of our stoves. The variegated film is also a fine tree, owing to the silvery hue of its foliage.— J. M. Bats.— Will some of your correspondents point out a way by which I can get rid of these ? They infest the roof of my house in great numbers.— J, Q. THE GARDEN. SATimDAX. JULY 8. 1876. " This is an art Which docs mend Nature : change it rather : but Thb Abt itself 13 Naxube.*' — Shakespeare. A GARDEN OF SAXIFRAGES. On the 24th June, 1875, 1 gave a brief account of the gardens at Fettes Mount, -which is situated about seven miles south- west of Edinburgh. On the 24th of June this year I again visited that establishment, and was delighted to find the Saxi- frages, for which this place is celebrated, in their very best condition, particularly those belonging to the crustaoeous section. There are here upwards of 150 species and varieties, of which about sisty, exclusive of duplicates, were counted in bloom at the time of my visit. The mixed rock garden banks described in my last notice (see "Gabden" for July, 1875), have been in a rich condition early in spring, not only with Saxifrages, but with Aubrietias, Dwarf Phloxes, Campanulas, Veronicas, particularly V. rupestris and V. verbenacea, Sem- pervivums, and Sedums, all blended together in irregular patches of various sizes, and flowering at different times. An operation connected with the early-flowering Aubrietias, grow- ing on the artificial sloping banks, is worthy of imitation : when the early flowers are partially past, the surfaces of the plants, particularly the old tufts, are clipped, new growths are immediately formed, which again flower, and in this way a succession is kept up during a considerable portion of the year, a remark particularly applicable to the variety known as Aubrietia grandiflora. At the present time (24th June), the Saxifrages at Fettes Mount present a most gorgeous effect, many of the tufts being large and covered with bloom. The portions of the rock garden devoted to the general collection are arranged in a series of long and elevated compartments, one immediately behind and above the other, the tallest species being planted nearest the back. The spaces are all furnished with sharp, sofb, sandstone rock, mixed with loamy soil, which seems admirably suited for their growth. At the present time the pyramidal-growing sorts, parti- cularly the species known as S. nepalensis, S. pyramidalis, also S. Cotyledon and its varieties, are all in excellent condi- tion. Besides the specimens of the above, as exhibited in the general collection, a large number of duplicate Saxifrages may be seen flowering in all directions amongst the ordinary her- baceous plants, giving a quaint appearance to the grounds. The general aspect of the garden is on a slope, inclining to the south and east. In many places, the surface, as before stated, is raised into artificial banks, with walks winding among them. These artificial banks, in many instances, are covered with Saxifrages and other flowering plants, which now obliterate the original outline of the mounds. No attempt is made to keep these artificial banks in trim condition, their good appearance depending upon the care bestowed on the original planting by the judicious mixing of the species. It is true that some of the kinds outgrow others ; still, a harmonious union in the colour of both flower and foliage is produced, and is infinitely more pleasing than single plants dotted about as herbaceous plants usually are. Of course, the general collection of Saxifrages, Sedums, Sempervivums, and the ordinary dwarf Alpine collections, are kept in regular order in places arranged for them, all being separated by numerous stone compartments or pockets. In what may be called the wild garden, consisting of mixed sloping mounds, the seed- stalks of the early Saxifrages, particularly those of the S. mus- coides section, are clipped as soon as the flowering is over, and the masses of rich green tufty foliage contrast well with the later-flowering species, both orustaceous and others, as well as with the other dwarf plants previously named. In this way an interest is kept up on the artificial rocky sloping banks or walls for a great part of the year. There is much of general interest always to be seen at Fettes Mount, but I must say that of all the collections of Saxifrages visited by me in the three kingdoms, none possesses the interest of those seen at this place. The proprietor, Mr. Potts, has himself col- lected on the Swiss Alps many of the species which he now cultivates. His chief aim is to arrange them in groups after the manner in which he has been accustomed to see them in their native habitats ; and in this attempt he has been to some extent successful, though not to the extent he could have desired. Still the arrangement is pleasing, and well worthy of imitation by all lovers of Saxifrages and Alpine scenery. Royal Botanic Oarden, Edmburgh. Jambs M'Nab. "WATERING ORCHIDS. There can. be no doubt that the health of all Orchids depends in a great measure on the supply of water which they get, its quality, and the time and manner in which it is given ; rain- water is generally admitted to be best, particularly for epiphytal Orchids. Those who reside in the country can have no excuse for watering their Orchids with spring- water, a plentiful supply of the other being always obtainable ; but in the neighbourhood of large manufacturing towns where Orchids are extensively grown, the air is often charged with noxious gases, which render rain-water impure ; nevertheless the benefits to be derived from its use are so great that a little trouble should be taken to save it, even if the supply obtained be small, for it would at least afford a change to the plants, and to some extent obviate the formation of that white-looking incrustation which generally covers both leaves and pseudo-bulbs when nothing but spring-water is used. This incrustation, by stopping up the pores, prevents the plants from deriving the sustenance which they otherwise would. Another argument in favour of rain-water, and one which 1 believe to be correct, is mentioned by Mr. Bateman in his work on the " Orehidaceaj of Mexico and Guatemala." In this he remarks that plants watered exclusively with rain- water are least liable to be infested with small snails, which are so mischievous to Orchids. Every Orchid-house, therefore, should be furnished with a tank of slate or cemented brick large enough to admit of the storing of a quantity of water, and thus allow any impurities with which it may be impreg- nated to settle to the bottom before the water is wanted for use. If the water collected from the roof be not suflicient, gutters should be placed round the adjacent buildings, and pipes laid from them to the tank, in order to insure a good supply. In cases where the tanks are small, in time of drought the water so collected should be used exclusively for the plants, and that required for damping the fioors and for similar purposes should be procured from some other source. In order to obtain water as clean as possible, it is a good plan to stop up the pipe which conveys the rain-water into the tank after a dry time of any duration, so that the first good shower may wash the dirt oS the roof aud run down on the outside of the house instead of into the tank, after which the pipe should be unstopped, and the air being cleared and the roof cleaner, the supply of water then 'obtained will be of better quality than it otherwise would be ; by this means, and by frequently cleaning out the gutters and the tank whenever the water in it gets very low, the objection to rain-water in towns will, in a great measure, vanish. But as the supply of rain-water is uncertain, particularly in the summer time when a quantity is required, a pipe should be laid on from the water-main to each tank where practicable, in order that in time of drought the rain-water may be eked o-at by mixing it with that from this source, or that it may take its place, should the supply of rain-water altogether fail. Some are under the impression that it is necessary to have hot-water pipes running through the tanks in the Orchid-houses, in order to warm the water before giving it to the plants ; but in the cool Odontoglossum- house and Cattleya-house this is altogether unnecessary. If the water have been in the house for any length of time, it will be found to be quite warm enough without being heated by means of pipes, aud the tanks may even be sunk under the floor. In the East Indian house, however, where a higher tempera- ture is maintained, the difierence between the temperature of the house and that of the water in the tank is greater than is desirable, and in that case it is better to have the tank for rain-water under the middle stage, its base being level with or just below the floor of the house, the top or cover being the 26 THE GARDEN. [July 8, 1876. open work on which the plants are set. A 2-iu. branch-pipe, which does not interfere witli the working of the ordinary piping, should be run round the tank as near to the bottom as possible, to increase the temperature of the water. This branch-pipe should be fitted with a valve at the outside of the tank on the flow-pipe, to afford means of regulating the tem- perature of the water to from 75° to 85°. Under such condi- tions the evaporation from the water, which is so beneficial to plants in growth, could be regulated or altogether withheld when the majority of the plants in the house were at rest. Pond-water ranks next to rain-water, but this should never be used direct from the pond ; from whatever source water may be obtained, it is highly important that it should be stored in tanks in the Orchid-house for some time before it is used. As a rule Orchids require most water in spring and summer, and least in autumn and winter ; but as there are many excep- tions to this rule something more definite is necessary, and the best guide is furnished by the plants themselves; the amateur should endeavour to make himself acquainted with the proper growing season of each of his plants, and on indi- cations being given of its approach, if the plant require it, it should be potted, and shortly after that an increased but still limited supply of water and slightly higher temperature should be given, until it is seen to be growing vigorously, when it should be treated to its proper growing temperature and a liberal allowance of water; the undecided manner in which Orchids in active growth are sometimes supplied with water —having a little given them each day, thus keeping them in a neither wet nor dry condition— is frequently the cause of the plants making stunted grovifth altogether unfit for the pro- duction of flowers. Such growth, owing to its not receiving its proper supply of water, is not completed in proper time, and the plants under such treatment become smaller every year until they are altogether lost. This is more especially the case with plants grown on baskets or on blocks ; for, if stinted as regards water during the growing season, the little which they receive evaporates during the heat of the day, and the old pseudo-bulbs, instead of assisting in the formation of new growth, become shrivelled themselves and often infested with insects ; when, therefore, a growing Orchid is watered a plen- tiful supply should be given it— enough even to rnn through the pot or basket, and, although the plant should be inspected each day, no more should be given until it appears to be getting dry, when it should again be thoroughly watered. It is easy for the most inexperienced to see when pseudo-bulbous Orchids are growing, or when they have finished their growth, but with Vandas, Aeridea, Sacoolabiums, &c., having simple stems, it is not so obvious whether they are growing or resting, and consequently a knowledge of the proper growing season of each will be of great assistance to the cultivator ; when, how- ever, plants of this class are seen to be pushing up new leaves from the middle, it may be known that they require a reason- able supply of water ; and when the last made leaf has attained the size of the others, and there is no evidence of more coming, the resting season may be known to have arrived, and the sujjply of water should be considerably diminished. East Indian Orchids generally rejoice in a humid atmosphere, and do not require a large supply of water at the roots even during the growing season ; and during the season of rest the tem- perature should be lowered, and the supply of water almost stopped. The new Grenada Odontoglossums, Masdevallias, &c., from a high elevation, should bo liberally supplied with water while making their growth, and carefully watered from time to time even througjiout the winter, in order to keep them plump. The Mexican and Guatemala Odontoglossums partake greatly of the nature of Oncidiums, and should bo placed in an intermediate housc,and treated to a plentiful supply of water while making their growth, and afterwards kept dry in a cooler temperature until the time has arrived for their growing again. The Oypripediums, Oalanthes of the 0. veratrifolia class, and other evergreen terrestrial Orchids grow nearly all the year round, and should have a liberal supply of water, except for a short period just before the flowering time, when they should be kept drier. Uattleyas, Laslias, and Oncidiums, do not like to bo overdone with wateratany time, but sufficient must be given them to enable them to perfect their growth in the allotted time ; thoy require a distinct period of rest, and during that time the temperature must be lowered, and the supply of water altogether withheld, unless the plants seem to suffer from want of it. With small-growing Orchids, such as Burlingtonias, Comparettias, and lonopsis, which should always be grown on blocks or rafts, it is better to err in giving a little too much water than too little. These plants have but little substance in them, and if they do not receive a sufficiency of water, unless they arc in a very accurately adjusted tenperature, they are likely to become shrivelled beyond recovery. During the summer months Orchids should be looked over, and those requiring it watered with the spouted pot at 6 a.m., in order that the plants may slowly imbibe enough in the cooler part of the morning to carry them through the rest of the day, with the assistance of moisture rising from the stages and floors. In autumn and spring the watering should be done about 9 a.m., and in winter just before noon ; but during this time great care is required in watering, and water should on no account be given to a deciduous plant at rest, unless it seems to be shrivelling. With respect to the use of the syringe in Orchid-houses, I am convinced that if evidence could be taken for and against it, the balance would certainly be against it as generally used. It is by no means a rare occurrence to see a house of Orchids being indiscriminately syringed in the middle of the day, the drip from the baskets and blocks falling into the hearts of the plants below them, an occurrence which cannot fail to do harm. The free use of the syringe may seem to do good by counter- ^ acting the ill-effects of an over-heated and ill-ventilated house, but it only staves off the evil day, which ultimately is sure to arrive when the plants become spotted or diseased. It ii better to make the heating and ventilation perfect, and to restrict the operations of the syringe as much as possible, using it only on the more robust-growing plants, and to moisten the back wall and surfaces under the stages. During the growing season, the syringe may also be employed on the lower portions of such plants as Vandas, Aerides, &c., but never indiscrimin- ately. In syringing, the cultivator should stand well above the plants on an inverted flower-pot, or set of short steps, placed iu the passage, and syringe each plant by itself, moving the flower-pot or other support along as may be required, and taking care that the water does not get into the hearts of the young growth ; he should never syringe a plant suspended over others ; rather take it down, dip it in water, and, after allowing it to drain, replace it. If these instructions be attended to, they will be the means of saving the leading growth and consequently the flower-spike of many a valuable Orchid. If water be accidentally dropped into ay oung growth while watering, it should at once be removed by means of a piece of sponge. James O'BnrEN. Phlox Drummondi splendens grandiflora. — This fine Phlox is well worth the attention of all who admire lovely flowers. In pots or in the open ground it ia equally effective, but I specially recommend it as a decorative pot.plant, as from the time when it begins to flower in the middle of Jane until the end ot October it is never out of bloom. Its flowers are perfect in form, and of an intense, rich, crimson-red hue, with a prominent white eye ; the habit of the plant is robust and branching, and it is admirably adapted for cutting from without injury. Seed of it should he sown in pans in a cool.honse early in April, and when large enough the young plants shonld be pricked oat into other pans or bo.'ces, until sufficiently strong to be transferred with a ball ot soil attached to them into pots. Four good plants are enough for a 6.inoh pot, which they will fill thoroughly. Ileat should be avoided as much as possible, bat they like plenty of light and air. — A. D. Sesfontainea spinosa. — This fine Bhrub, which aurvivos out-of-doors in tho milder districts only, ia well worthy of a place in tho cool prceiihouae or con- servatory. It is, by tho way, a curious fact that not a few fiuo subjects hardy, or supposed to bo hardy or uearly hardy iu the south of England, are seldom accorded the protection of a greenhouse. The Desfoutainca is a case in point. It is surely as well worthy a place as many Now Holland plants. — V. Kalosanthes versicolor. — We saw on Thursday morning a batch of this fine plant in Covent Garden, grown by Mr. Brown, of Hendon, Its llesh- colourcd flowers are very distinct, and from that alone desirable as a vai iet.v where tho scarlet kind is grown. Tho plant is, however, well worthy of cul- ture f^r its own sake, as tho delicate and varying hues of tho Sowers are veo' beautiful. — S. July 8, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 27 A NEW SEEDLING FEEN. (ETEEIS SBRBULATA LEl'l). Numerous varieties of the Chinese Pteris serrulata are grown in gardens, but among these none are more interesting than the one which we now figure, and which indeed, owing to its partially winged petioles, seems more nearly related to the variety known as P. luxuriosa, a native of Manilla, than to the typical Chinese plant. It is singular to find that, while many forms of this Pteris are crested or have broad, tassel-like ter- minations to their fronds, the beauty of the present variety consists in the pinn^ being suddenly contracted into slender, serrate tails, as shown in our engraving. Small plants of this Pteris eerrnlata Leyi. variety have been exhibited at the London and other shows during the present season by its raiser, Mr. J. Ley, of the Exotic Nursery, Croydon, and it deserves culture as a distinct form of one of the most generally useful of all decorative Ferns. B. A HISTORY OF THE EHODODENDEON. Me. Leo Geindon has lately written a very interesting essay on the history of the Ehododendron, which well shows the fruits of intelligent hybridising in gardens, and the wealth of beauty possessed by this noble family of plants. Literally, Ehododendron signifies "rose-tree," the old Greek word rhodon, usually translated " rose," having denoted fine red flowers in general, the genuine Eose and the Pomegranate blossom included. The ancients were not so exact as ourselves in botanical and floral discrimination : they were at all events more economical in the employment of their plant names, and often made a single term do duty for a dozen different things. The practice survives to some extent even into the critical times we call our own ; for in the country we may hear the scarlet Corn Poppy called the Gipsy Eose, and a certain mag- nificent crimson Hibiscus is by gardeners called Eosa sinensis, or the China Eose. The second half of the word, dendron, with the ancient Greeks denoted primarily a tree, a tree of any description, and in a more extended sense, a shrub or ligneous plant — a practice likewise continued by ourselves in such names as the Tree Peony and the Tree Mallow. The compound term Ehododendron was first applied to the Oleander, that splendid Levantine shrub, which has leaves like those of the Almond tree, only firm, leathery, and evergreen, and bunches of large pink fiowers at the end of every branchlet. The foliage of the Oleander being in some degree Laurel-like, in course of time this showy plant came to be designated the Eose-bay, which name was passed on, in turn, to the purple Ehododendron, and is retained for it in Loudon's " Arboretum." There is no reason to believe that the original application covered anything besides the Oleander. It appears certain that no member of the modern genus Ehododendron was even so much as noticed by the ancients, unless possibly some attention may have been attracted to the plant familiarly known as the Yellow Azalea, which in reaUty is a Ehododendron, allusion being made to the deleterious effects of the honey, in the famous account given by Xenophon of the homeward march of the 10,000 Greeks, say about four centuries b.c. During the whole of the long period which elapsed between the time of Pliny and that of Elizabeth, Rhododendron meant nothing more. But with the restoration of learning and the birth of modern science came a change. In the famous old " History of Plants," compiled by CEesalpinus, and published at Florence in 1683, it was extended to those lovely little denizens of the Swiss mountains which still go by the name of the Alpine Eose, the Ehododendron ferrugineum and the Ehododendron hirsutum of Linnceus, who, though he made so many changes, often ruthless, in the nomenclature employed by his prede- cessors, in this case allowed the name to stand. Under the influence of the great Swede, everything in the way of nomen- clature was rendered more exact, and in the middle of the eighteenth century Ehododendron became limited to the plants so called at the present moment. It is interesting to look back upon the little Alpine Eoses, and to think in how small a rill commenced the fame which now pertains to the queen of flowering shrubs. They are scarcely more than a foot high, somewhat harsh and rude in foliage, but delicious in the plenty of their scarlet or crimson fiowers. The E.hirsutum.the flowers of which are dotted with amber, was cultivated at Lambeth by the celebrated John Tradescant as early as 1656. Both are now very common in English gardens, though lost beneath the shadow of their splendid kindred. Upon the Alps these two little shrubs attain the highest elevation above the sea- level which in Europe is reached by any thing ligneous, and help, like the deep blue Gentians, to " make glad the solitary place." About 120 years ago the favourite old E. ponticum seems to have begun to attract the attention of gardeners. It is said to have been first cultivated in the neighbourhood of Gibraltar, and to have been introduced thence in 1763, though derived originally from South-western Asia. The province it there occupies extends from the shores of the Black Sea, through Armenia, to the western frontier of Persia. E. ponticum is the well-known old purple Ehododendron, the plant so often found embellishing sylvan grounds that were laid out sixty or seventy years ago. How effective it becomes at Alton Towers, where, viewed across the valley, the flowers seem a delicate lilac serf tossed up by the waves of distant verdure, is known to every one who at midsummer has made acquaintance with that charming place. In the course of the eighteenth century several species were transmitted from North America. The first there discovered appears to have been E. maximum, a native of Pennsylvania, and which, attaining in the wild state the height of 16 ft., was innocently supposed to be the largest of the race. It is readily distinguished from E. ponticum by the under-surface of the leaves being rusty, and by the com- paratively pale green of the entire plant. Next came E. puncta- tum, the leaves of which are curiously dotted underneath, and which was introduced from Carolina towards 1785, and after this followed the E. catawbiense, so named because especially abundant near the source of the River Catawba, a stream flowing at the base of the Allegbanies, though plentiful also on 28 THE GARDEN. [JuLT 8, 1876. the mountains of Virginia. The height attained by this one seldom exceeds 4 ft. ; it is remarkably hardy and robust in constitution ; the leaves are shortly oval, rounded at the base, and glabrous. In England, after 1809, R. catawbiense which in flowers does not differ materially from R. ponticum, soon became, like the latter, extremely common. Concurrently with the acquisition of the American Rhododendrons, there were discovered, chiefly in company with them, many species of the beautiful genera Ledum, Andromeda, Kalmia, and Gaul- theria, and of the section of Rhododendron, which, being originally distinguished as a genus under the name of Azalea, still possesses that name in everyday converse. All were con- veyed to England, where they immediately became popular, and gave quite a new complexion to the flower garden. For a very long period it was customary to grow these various shrubs in borders by themselves ; they demanded similar soil, and bloomed mostly at the same season of the year. Hence they acquired, very naturally, the collective name of American plants, a term still iu use, but in 1876 applying so badly, as will presently be seen, that it conveys quite a wrong idea, and would be better dismissed. Discoveries even more splendid were now being made in the East. In 1796, during a tour in Northern India, Captain Hardwioke found upon the mountains which constitute the Sewalio chain — a tract separating the plains of Hindostan from the Himalayas, between 75° and 85° east longitude — a Rhododendron, excelling anything that had ever been imagined, the flowers of a most gorgeous crim- son, and which, from its magnitude and lofty stature, 20 ft. to 30 ft. or more, was shortly afterwards named arboreum. Drawings of it were published in the botanical books of the day, but it was only just before the date of Waterloo that the plant itself became a living inmate of our island, seeds having been sent by Dr. Wallich to the Liverpool Botanic Garden, then under the care of the late celebrated Mr. Shepherd, and located in what is now the centre of the town. This glorious plant, the Rhododendron arboreum, like most of its genus, is an Evergreen. On its native mountains it is generally asso- ciated with forests of Oak, growing in turfy peat, on a stony bed, and covering vast tracts of country. The large, long, thick, and leathery leaves are underneath of a silvery white. The dazzling flowers grow in close and neai-ly globular clusters, terminating the boughs, and appear in March and April. In the centre of the great conservatory at South Kensington there is a plant of this stately species, probably one of the very first raised in England, now upwards of 20 ft. in height, and usually loaded every spring with splendid trusses of the refulgent bloom, the colour of which is that of arterial blood. A white variety was discovered in Nepaul in 1803 at an elevation of 10,000 ft. above the sea-level, and sub- sequently another with rose-coloured flowers. In these the leaves are less silvery underneath, but the stature and dimen- sions exceed those of the red-flowered form. Coming from a mountain-height so considerable, it was hoped that R. arboreum would stand the English winter out- of-doors, and thus realise what had now become a fervent desire — a hardy crimson Rhododendron. But after three or four years' trial, it became only too evident that this glorious plant could not exist permanently, except with the protection of glass. The introduction of it marked an era, nevertheless, in the annals not only of the Rhododendron, but of EngUsh floriculture — the rearing of this splendid production of nature was the " herald-voice " of all the charms that pertain to the Rhododendron as now exhibited. What could not bo accom- plished by acclimatization was achieved by the art of hybrid- izing. In the case of the Rhododendron, crossing appears to have been first tried with some of the American species above- mentioned and the R. ponticum ; also with R. ponticum and the yellow Azalea. When it became clear that tlio crimson Arboreum was too tender for the open air, a happy thought conceived that its lirilliaut colour might bo associated, by crossing, with the hardiness, and at the same time with the smaller dimensions of the old-accustomed kinds. Many zealous cultivators set to work, commencing in 1826, or just lialf-a- century ago. The pollen of the hardy khids was placed upon the pistils of R. arboreum, and the hardy species were fer- tilized with the pollen of the Indian one. The hybrids raised from seeds yielded by plants of fertilized R. arboreum were by no means quite hardy ; neither were the colours so bright as had been expected. Contrariwise, those which had been got by fertilizing the hardy kinds with R. arboreum pollen were eminently successful, and three distinct races were soon in cultivation. R. arboreum pollen applied to the pistils of the Catawbiense gave the splendid progeny which lea ofl: with the R. Altaclerense, so named because raised at Highclere, near Newbury, Hampshire, virtually by the hands of Lord Carnar- von, the second Earl, and one of the most enlightened florists of the time. R. arboreum pollen applied to R. ponticum gave the charming set of which the R. Cunninghami is the most noted ; and when the mother-plant was a hardy species which we have not previously mentioned — the little half -procumbent R. caucasicum, which had been introduced from the Caucasus in 1803 — there was produced a grand series, of which the best representative was the R. Nobleanum. R. cauca- sicum flowers abundantly in the open garden as early as January, and the hybrids derived from it are often seen in bloom at the same very early season of the year. In this way, accordingly, the old original desire of a hardy crimson Rhododendron at length became realized, and along with the colour arrived other excellent conditions. The vigour of the robust but comparatively poor in tint, the strong, the brilliant, all became reciprocally associated with agreeable supplement of improved foliage, where previously it had been poor, and of change of crowded clusters into gracefully expan- ded ones. On the Himalayas the foliage of R. arboreum is ofteq scanty, and the plants when out of blossom not unfre- qnently present a lean and gloomy appearance. The work has been accomplished almost entirely in England, though in Belgium there has also been a considerable success. In any case these beautiful hybrids are all emphatically European, and in quite a preponderating degree purely English. Writing down the name of the great transatlantic State, one cannot but pause a moment on the very interesting reflection that the hybridizing has been practised, not upon the plants of a single clime or country, but upon the plants from the remote east and the far west, Asia and America being united iu the progeny. The conjunction in these hybrid Rhododendrons of the products of both hemispheres is one of the largest and most significant facts in modern gai-dening ; it shows in the most pleasing manner how floriculture, the first and finest of the fine arts, the most benevolent and the most civilizing, literally helps to make the whole world kin. While the developments above described were in progress, Dr. Hooker, the present Director of the Royal Gardens at Kew, made the visit to the mountains of Northern India which, oommencing in the autumn of 1847, is described so delight- fully in the Himalayan journals. During his explorations he discovered nearly forty new species of Rhododendron, draw- ings and descriptions of thirty-one of which were after- wards published under the title of "The Rhododendrons of the Sikkim Himalaya." Among them were many wonderful species, including trees 40 ft. high, pretty little trailers, epi- phytes, plants with huge leaves covered below (as in R. Falconer!) with brown wool, or bearing immense flowers shajjed like bells, occasionally, as in R. Maddeni, exhaling powerful odour, or united in heads so grand as to measure 18 iu. across. Producing seed freely (no plants, indeed, are more fecund than the Rhododendron) — seed, moreover, that keeps sound for a very long time^most of these new species have by degrees been raised in England, and are now to be found in good collections of exotics. The first to produce its flowers was R. ciliatum, a beautiful little plant, apt to deck itself with rosy bloom when only 6 in. high, and which never growa tailor than a child. It flowers abundantly iu the open air, as do likewise R. glaucum and R. anthopogon, Alpine forma somewhat similar to R. hirsutura of tho Alps. The smallest found by Dr. Hooker was an elegant miniature, to which ho gave tho name of R. purailum, a Rhododendron rooting among Moss, growing only 3 in. or t in. high, and bearing pretty cup- like flowers on long peduncles. It is worthy of remark that this little Indian fairy among the Rhododendrons has a counter- part in the Rhododendron cham;ucistus of the Alps. The most charming of all Dr. Hooker considered to be R. campy- locarpum, the flowers of which, borne on a bush about 6 ft. July 8, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 29 high, are of a pure and spotless primrose colour. R. nivale he describes as the produce of the loftiest elevation upon the surface of the globe, growing at the height of 18,000 ft. above the level of the sea, far above the usual limit of flowering plants — so wonderfully fluent is the Rhododendron in its multiform species and modes of life. Many other species of this splendid genus have been introduced of late years, some from Bhotan, by Nuttall, others from the warmer parts of Asia, comprising lovely plants of wholly unprecedented figure and hues, such as R. jasminiflorum of Malacca, the snow-white flowers of which resemble those of the Stepha- notis, and the bright orange or golden-yellow Javanicum. So far as practicable, crossing has been attempted between the Hookerian plants and the older sorts. Crossing has likewise been practised very extensively among the original hybrids, and is renewed every season, the bees assisting. Hence the number of sorts in cultivation, all the best of which have received names, is now beyond the counting, and the catalogue will soon compare with that of the most cherished kinds of Rose. To the list of Rhododendrons proper must be added that of all the shrubs called Azaleas, the distinctive characters of which, though well marked in the case of the extremes, in the intermediate forms insensibly disappear. Hybrids illustrate much more than the simple or primitive foi'ms of plants. Beautiful as a plant may become when doing its best per se, and under the stimulus of high culture, in these we see Nature constrained to take yet another leap, tran- scending even the choice designs she set out with in the beginning. Our hybridisers, thtinks to their ingenuity and perseverance, not only bring into the world, day by day, more flowers than ever were before, but, as pointed out above, they positively create new kinds, or such as, save for human skill and patience, would probably never have existed. Where once there stood only a solitary old R. pontioum, now may be seen a score of these matchless hybrids, the colour no longer limited to purple, but reminding us, in its versatility, of the Auricula and the Hyacinth, the range being from pure white, through peach and cherry-rose, up to inexpressible carmine. Blue alone, as in Roses and Ericas, is wanting. Strange that Nature, usually so lavish, should, in respect of blue, be so parsimonious. Pure yellow also is wanting for the present, but this will be got by-and-by, several species possessing it. Not the least attractive feature in the colouring of the hybrids is the variety in the spots, which ranges from green to the intensest purple. The time wiU doubtless arrive also when, by crossing with some of the scented Himalayans, there will arise a new race of hardy fragrant Rhododendrons. Edgings and Walks in the Kitclian Garden. — A corre- spondent of The Gaeden, writing lately on kitchen garden manage- ment, lays great stress on the making and keeping in perfect order of the Box edgings in that department, and to his remarks the editor appends the following pertinent observations :— " We donbt if a formidable series of walk edgings, &o., be necessary in the kitchen garden at all. They are costly to form and troublesome to keep. In the best cultivated gardens we have ever seen the only walks are alleys between well-grown crops." A good many gardeners will, we imagine, concur in this view of the case. Of course, with those who insist upon their kitchen gardens being kept as trim and as gay as their pleasure grounds, we have no fault to find ; but we know that miles of Box or other kept edgings round the vegetable quarters mean an extravagant waste of time and labour, which could in a majority of cases he spent with great advantage on the legitimate work of a kitchen garden. We come in contact very frequently with owners of large gardens, and our experience is that of the majority them begrudge the expenditure their gardens entail, and would gladly reduce the expense of keeping and management if they could do so without curtailing the real usefulness of any department. One nobleman assured us not long ago that he could supply his establish- ment with both vegetables and fruit from the market at less cost than he could from his own garden ; and we believed him, for nearly half the expense went in keeping and dressing the walks and borders, &o. This is not as it should be, however, and is not true of many kitchen and fruit gardens. It is always pleasing and satisfactory to see the pleasure grounds well cared for, and the walks in good order ; but in a kitchen garden, if the object be simply to supply the establishment with vegetables and fruit, no more shold be expected than well.cultivated quarters and ordinary tidiness. — "The Gardener." NOTES OF THE WEEK-' Annual Flowers as Cakpeting Plants. — In the gardens of the Thames Embankment the earth in the recently-formed shrubberies is hidden by Mignonette, Virginian Stock, and other small annuals, a very good practice. By varying the annuals so as to have a different mixture or plant on the surface of each clump or belt, a refreshing change is the result. Foxgloves in Kensington Gaedens. — We have lately noticed a pleasing distant efiect afforded by numerous, spikes of variously- coloured Foxgloves growing in the open spaces in a plantation of low shrubs n Kensington Gardens. As the Foxglove is only one of a thousand subjects equally suitable for deooration of that kind, we hope to see such fine and easily-obtained effects more frequently. Laege Aspakagus. — Mr. Horseman informs us that the finest bundle of English grown Asparagus which he ever saw was exhibited the other day at the Colchester Flower Show. It was grown by Mr. Harwood, a market gardener in that town. It consisted of 100 heads, and weighed 15 lbs. The same cultivator, it is said, exhibited last season a bundle weighing 18 lbs., in both cases taking first prizes. Propagating Taeiegated Pelargoniums. — These are now being propagated in abundance in the London nurseries in the open air and in the full sun. In this, at all events, we have made a step towards simplicity in propagation. The Moccasin-flowee tor InCooe Decoration. — We find that this Orchid lasts a long time in water in the sitting-room. As yet it is not, as a rule, plentiful enough to spare many blooms for this pur- pose, but we hope it soon will be. The Kotal Botanic Evening Fete. — This passed off with its usual success, and with favourable though somewhat threatening weather. It is to be regretted that such an opportunity for the holding of a good flower show at night is lost sight of. We imagine the effect of a rich collection of plants would be very striking by artificial light. The few graceful table decorations, baskets, &c., are not objects enough in themselves for such an occasion. The Society will pro. bably find that ill-smelling oil lamps and burning of powder and other compounds in the shape of Bengal lights, are not in themselves snSicient to permanently attract the people whose patronage it desires to secure. Cultivated Vegetables in Ameeica. — The "Bulletin of the Torrey Botanical Club" contains a communication from Dr. Trumbull in reference to the evidence of the existence of certain vegetables in America at the time of the first visit of the whites. He quotes from Cabe9a de Vaca, who found in 1528, near Tampa Bay, Maize, Beans, and Pumpkins. Cartier, in his first visit to Canada in 1534, found Beans and Melons. Hudson, in 1609, when off the Catskills, was supplied with Indian Corn, Pnmpkins, and Tobacco. Champlain, on his voyage in 1604, found Beans, Melons, and Tobacco on the Con. nectieut Kiver. Purslane is also given as a substance known to the Indians in the earliest days. The Pelaegoniuii Society. — The attendance of the members of the Pelargonium Society is particularly requested at the second an- nual meeting, which has been convened to be held in the Council- room of the Royal Horticultural Society, South Kensington, on Wednesday, July 19, at half- past three, for the purpose of submitting the financial report for the past, and electing a Committee and officers for the ensuing, year ; and for the transaction of other busi. ness. The Society's show, pursuant to previous notice, wiU be held on Wednesday and Thursday, the 19th and 20th inst., at South Kensington, in conjunction with that of the Royal Horticultural Society, when it is hoped that all the members of the Society who can will exhibit for competition or otherwise. The coUeotion of Zonal Pelargoniums grown at the Chiswick Gardens on behalf of this Society includes many new varieties contributed by the leadmg Con- tinental raisers ; and being well worthy of inspection, it is Proposed to hold a meeting for that purpose at Chiswick on a day to be fixed at the annual meeting, and this, it has been thought, would afford a good opportunity for the members to dine together. College Gaedens, Dublin.— Mr. John MoKenzie, formerly of the Viceregal Gardens, DubUn, and previous to that at Drumlanng, has been appointed curator of the College Botanic Gardens, Dublin. Trial op Onions Autujin-sown. — There is another interesting trial of Onions at Chiswick this year, all the varieties being autumn-sown, as well as the few usually sown at that season in Laege Ameeican Geape-Vine.— The stem of the great Santa Barbara Grape-Vine attracts the attention of many visitors at the Centennial. It is about 18 in. in diameter at the largest point, and nearly as large elsewhere, a portion of the roots and branches bemg left on the Vine. 30 THE GARDEN. [JuLT 8, 1876 A NOBLE AVENUE OP TREES. We at one time supposed that European conntriea contained the most remarkable avenues anywhere to be found, but the following note sent us by Mr. Thomas Hogg, who has just returned from Japan, tells of a marvellous avenue which the writer has recently visited. Mr. Hogg, we may add, has spent a long time in Japan, and is well acquainted with its trees ; and onr gardens are indebted to him for many good plants : — "In the course of recent wanderings through the interior of Japan I have felt how little known are the natural beauties of that interesting country — its mountains, lakes, streams, and forests. The interior is a series of mountain ranges approaching the coast at various places, the most conspicuous point being Fusi Yama, or properly translated, Fusi Mountain, which rises immediately from the coast about 50 miles from Yokohama. From Fusi the range trends inwards, encompassing the large and fertile plain surrounding Y'edo (or Tokio, as it is now called). On the northerly side of this plain, between 80 and 90 miles from Yedo, is a group of mountains, one of which is named Nikko, celebrated as the burial-place of lyeyas, one of Japan's greatest rulers. A portion of the road thither, to which I wish to call attention, is one of the grandest sights that ever met my view in the course of ray wanderings in any country. Approach, ing the town of Utsonomiya, 60 miles from Y'edo, one is struck with admiration of the beautiful Pines and Retinosporas that line the road on either side, forming an avenue miles in length, with here and there an interruption wherever there is a road-side village. Leaving the town of Utsonomiya, tho road to Nikko turns ofi from the main road, that runs through the country, and then begins an avenue of Cryptomerias, that extends for a distance of twenty.five miles or more. To fully describe its wondrous beauty is impossible. Planted where they are now standing for hundreds of years, they have attained a height of, I should judge on an average, 120 ft., and many have a diameter of 6 ft. to 8 ft. In the full vigour of health their massive tops mingle with each other, shading the road so much in some places, that the rays of the sun cannot penetrate sufficiently to dry up its bed for many days in the spring of the year or after heavy rains. The road, or more properly avenue, is not straight the entire distance, bat has many windings, and these enhance its beauty. The whole has ap. parently been planted as a fitting approach to the tomb of a prince whose memory is held in reverence to the present day. The tomb is placed some distance behind a temple in a grove of tall trees. The immediate approach to it is through a side gate in the temple court. Passing through the gate, a gradual ascent is made over a stone path, with railings on each side cut into panels from blocks of stone. The whole is completely enclosed from outside view by trees. The path, way and railings are covered with Moss, which is most carefully pre. served, and visitors are reminded that it must not be injured. To ensure it against damage from heeled shoes, foreigners are requested to take them off and accept a pair of slippers instead. Natural Grafting. — This is very common in the case of various kinds of roots, and not uncommon in that of tho branches of trees and shrubs in Michigan. In Branch County stand two trees, 12 ft. apart, each about 12 in. through. They run up 12 ft., when one starts off horizontally and strikes the other, when they grow together in one body. I heard of a specimen, perhaps not now standing — two Pines, about 4 ft. apart, diameters 20 in. and 20 in. respectively. About 16 ft. from the ground they are joined by a tie 6 in. in diameter. Above the point of union the smaller tree becomes the largest. Mr. Rowell, of Bennington, writes of two Beeches now growing on his farm. They are about 18 in. in diameter near the ground, thrifty and straight. About 20 ft. above the ground they are joined together. The trunks are nearly covered with the names of persons who have visited them, some of them dating back thirty years. I should aay of these Beeches, which go to tho Centennial, " united we stood, united we fell." Mr. Peck, of Muskegon, writes ■ " On tho farm of Mr. Hubbard, Oceana County, is a specimen of natural grafting. Two trees, standing some 15 ft. apart, are united together some 10 ft. high, forming from thence upward a perfect siuglo top, with a smooth, round, natural trunk. Mr. Shirts, of Shelby, in the same county, sends a drawing and description of two Sugar Maples in his section grown together. The larger tree stands up straight, and is about 2 ft. in diameter ; the smaller tree is 50 ft. from tho larger one, and is about 1 ft. in diameter. The small one, some S ft. from the ground, is bent over and touches the larger ono where the graft occurs, ;10 ft. above the ground. At the point of union the large tree is 20 in., and the small one 6 in. in diameter. I have looked many times at forest trees of different genera which had apparently grown together by root, trunk, or limbs, but on cutting into them I never found tho least union of the wood. — Pboi'Bssob Vf J. Bk\i,. THE FLOWER GARDEN. HAEDT FLOWERS OP THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. Lilies are now in their glory, and will so continue for a long time to come. It is difficult to imagine the superb beauty ■which the many Lilies now in cultivation are likely to add to our gardens as soon as they have become strong and esta- blished plants therein. Even the old and well-known kinds are being improved. Thus Mr. Ware has a number of seed- lings of the Turk's-cap Lily (Lilium Martagon), some of which are well worthy of being selected and preserved, though, even of Lilies one may have too many varieties. The varieties or allies of the Canadian Lily are also very beautiful just now, as indeed are a host of Californian and other kinds. Among the Labiate plants, various kinds of Phlomis (P. Samia, fruticosa, and herba-venti) are quite distinct and effective. They would prove most valuable plants in the wild garden, while not too rampant for borders. The brilliant little Alpine Toadflax is one of the gems among the Alpine flowers of the week; among the various kinds of Scabious now in abundant bloom the Alpine one (S. alpina) is worthy of note — a modest-looking, neatly-tufted plant, about 9 in. high, with soft blue flowers. The Campa- nula called Van Houttei is remarkably large and showy in flower, while dwarf inhabit. The Mulleins (Verbascum) are at their best ; the wild garden is the place for these. Some of the large Achilleas are handsome now, also the double A. serrati- folia fl.-pl., which is deserving of culture in common with A. ptarmica fl.-pl. Various Erigerons are also in bloom ; the dwarfer kinds do not take kindly to our southern borders, they enjoy the well-made rock-garden best. Androsace lanuginosa is a beautiful, silky, Himalayan, Alpine plant, deserving of more general culture. The tall and fine yellow Iris Monnieri is in flower, also the curious, rusty-looking Iris fulva. The|Perulas we have frequently praised for their leaf beauty, but they are not without attractions when in flower, the whitened stem and yellow flowers of P. tingitana are effective on strong plants at present. The little Mazus Pumilio, which paves the ground with such a close texture of leaves and flowers, is at its best; it is excellent for association with the more free-growing Alpine plants on the rock-garden or on raised borders. The long popular single Clarkias are now joined by a new double race, of which Mr. Hardy, of Bures, in Essex, possesses a good strain. Mr. Ware sends us the brilliant Diauthus Atkinsoni ; this was raised by a lady in Norfolk, and was grown in that county by the late Mr. Nelson, who saved it during the long period when hardy flowers were neglected. It is a tall species, making very little foliage, unless when the flowers are pinched off. Flower Shows. — Of late years perhaps few gaiherings of a popular kind have been more on the increase than flower shows; almost every village now-a-days has its show of this kind, and tho result ought to be advantageous as regards flower culture. Such meetings are, however, sometimes viewed in a different light ; some patron of gardening n\ay not allow his plants to be shown, while another is only too ready to do so, the result being dissatisfaction to all parties. Beautiful plants or line fruit shown for the people to see ought to do good ; still opinions unfavour.ible to showing are entertained — let us hope on false grounds, for most cultivators reap either directly or indirectly some bouelitfrom exhibiting the produce of their labour. The unfavourable opinions expressed are generally capable of explanation, and it is to bo regretted that such opinions should acquire weight, as showing is right in the main if only pro. porly conducted. The chief points are to get together good exbibi- Lions, and to endeavour by every means to maintain tho popularity of such displays. In the industrial parts of England they are cer. tainly on the increase, and they answer well as a village hoUiday, tho o.\hibitors, whether they receive a prize or not, being well repaid for months of toil by the interest that is evidently being taken in their productions. — R. M. Doable Rose and White Bagged Robin (Lychnis Flos-cncuU ll.-pl. albo ct rosoo).— Thoso hiivo both done very well with ma ihis year. Tho white vftrioLy is very 6carco, and I was years Vteforo I could obtain ono plant of it, which I am diliKOutly cndoavouring to increii3o. Lychnis viscosa alua fl.-pl. has also boon a mass of bloom, and is a moat delicately-beautiful flower, — H. HiRPDB ChliWB. July 8, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 31 The Anstrian Hairbell (Campanula puUa) . Canaflian Whorl-leaved L'ly (L. philadelphicum) . Blue-flowered Mulloin (Verbascum phoeniceum). Dwarf Iberis (I. umbellata, var. forrnosa nam) . Dandelion-leayed (Enotbe a (CE. taiaxac folia) Alpine Toadflax (Lmana alpina). rfaiM'iv Noble Yarrow (Achillea filipendula). Tangier Ferula (P. tingitana). Lavender Cotton (Santolina Chamfecypai-issus). SOME HARDT FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. 32 THE GARDEN. [July 8, 1876. NOTES FROM OXFORDSHIRE. Amoxcst the innumerable fine hardy plants at present in flower in the garden I lotted down the names of the following, which represent some of the most effective. Foremost amongt them may be named AquUegia chrysantha, with flowers of a deep yellow and spurs as long as those of A crerulea. Of this I received the seed direct from the Rocky Mountains, and hope it may prove a better perennial than other choice Columbines, which are certainly only rather long-lived bien. Dials. Semporvivura Laygeria, which has pretty rose-coloured flowers, is a good subject for rookwork, or the front line of a mixed border- it ia an improvement on S. arachnoideum. Silene Eliza- bethea)', a rare Alpine species, is now in full bloom ; it has been for three years in an ordinary border, and forms a flue healthy patch The only precaution taken with it has been to cover the ground with small stones a few inches round and tight up to the collar. The flowers are large, of a deep rose colour, greatly resembling those oE a Clarkia. S. alpestris, with its snowy-white blooms, is not at all fastidious. S. quadridentata resembles the latter, and though not so good, deserves a place on rockwork, being rather dwarfor. Campa- nula Van Houttei is a very flne plant, 3 ft. in height, with blue flowers larger than those of a Canterbury Bell. C. pulla, very dwarf with deep purple flowers, is now in bloom, as are also the old C. turbinata and C. garganica. We have likewise Campanula isophylla, fragilis, Barrelieri, Elatines, muralis, and modesta, amongst the dwarf varieties, all in flower. Next in size, C. nobilis in variety, barbata, Hostii (probably a variety of the common Hairbell) ; also C. carpatica, glomerata, persicifolia, urticasfolia, and their varieties. The true Lupine (Lupinua arboreus) is in full bloom ■ it does fairly well in the open border, but its proper place is against a wall, where its yellow flowers are very attractive. It would probably also live longer under these circumstances. Gera- niums ibericum and platypetalum are worthy of a place in the best collections (they have showy, purple blossoms) , as is the old G. san- guineum, in fact, some patches of the latter are now the most con. spicuous objects in the wild garden. I have also a rose-coloured Geranium with the habit and stature of G. ibericum, but for which I cannot get a name. Eremostachys laciniata (worthily described in The Garden about a fortnight ago— see p. 590, Vol. IX.), is very effective. Tho Baptisias (exaltata, australis, and alba), are now in bloom, also a magnificent yellow Potentilla named Vase d'Or. Triteleia Murrayana and T. laxa are very pretty and perfectly hardy bnlbs. jEthionema grandiflorum should have a place in even the choicest collections. Orchis foliosa is a magnificent plant, and though from Madeira is quite hardy ; it likes plenty of moisture in summer. Iris tingitana, which was heralded by a flourish of trum. pets, is, in my estimation, but an ordinary blue Spanish Iris. Mazns Pumilio, though not showy, is a pretty and interesting little plant when near the eye, but in the level border insignificant; though by many said not to be hardy, it has thriven well here for some years, and that on the level ground. Astragalus monspessulanus, also A. hypoglottia, and the white variety, look well at this season on araised bank by theside of Convolvulus mauritanious and Callirhoeinvolucrata. Those exquisite Alpine Pinks (Dianthus alpinus and D. neglectus) are in full beauty now. Androsace lactea shows its chaste white blooms. Leontopodium alpinum (the German Edelweiss) is curious if not showy, and is of easy cultivation. Brodia3a coccinea and B. congesta make good companions to one another — one scarlet, the other mauve. I like the latter best, B. coccinea having such a length of " bare leg." Ixias are now flowering well in the open border, where we do not even put a handful of leaves over them in winter; also Babianas, Sparaxis, and Trichonemas. The only precaution taken is to thoroughly drain the soil underneath them. Epilobium oboorda- tum is one of the best of hardy plants ; it is now G in. in height, and smothered with rose-coloured bloom. Dictamnua Praxinella, white and purple, are well out ; also a larger variety, called D. tanrious. Cypripedium speotabile is in bloom, also Chryaobaetron Hookeri. Two fine Irises are I. oohroleuca and I. sibirica alba — both of which in rich soil grow over 5 ft. in height ; the first. named is partieu. larly good. Aconitum lycoctonum has pale yellow flowers, produced in great profusion, and a large plant of it is now as effective as any. thing in my g.arden. On looking over these notes again I find I have forgotten Sileno Pumilio — a fine plant in the way of S. acaulis, but with much larger and handsomer flowers. It must be protected from slugs or wood-lice, as they seem to have an especial affection for its half-opened buda. OxoN. Erysimtim arkansantun, — This Bhowy, rich yellow, and sweet-scented annual flower deserves some attention, beiDp delicately scented, and useful for cutting in spring and curly summer. We iioLico handsome bunches of it in Covent Garden, brought by Mr. Neii^hbour, of Hountilow, who scndii 30 many hardy doweru to t^e Loiidou marki-t. FOXGLOVES. For semi.wild scenery, the neighbourhood of Ferneries naturally arranged, clothing steep hill-aides, or for lighting up, as it were, tho outskirts of shrubberies not too severely trimmed or dressed, few plants are more strikingly beautiful than Foxgloves ; they blossom at a season when Thorns, Lilacs, Laburnums, and most other flowering trees and shrnbs are over, and when colour is greatly wanted to light up the dull green that trees and shruba always assume in July. The best way of establishing them in such positions is to secure a plentiful supply of seed, and scatter it with a liberal hand over all the promi- nent points in wildernesses and shrubberies from the middle of August till the first week in September. A sufficient number of the seeds will grow to thoroughly alter the character of the scenery next year, and afterwards they will take care of themselves ; and if once fairly established on the loftiest or most prominent points, they will descend into the gorges or ravines as the seeds annu- ally ripen and scatter themselves, and it at any time they become too numerous, a few here and there can easily be pulled np. They always have the best effect when growing in irregular patches or masses, now widening out into a grand bold mass, and then thin, ning down to here and there a single specimen. They may also bo sown on a shady border, and transplanted when large enough in autumn or spring. The seeds should be very thinly covered with light, sifted soil, and, if kept moist, will soon germinate. There are now many beautiful varieties of Fcxglove in cultivation, and, like the Gloxinia, they constantly vary when raised from seeds. But for the purpose I have indicated, the common wild forms are almost as effeo- tive as the more choice spotted varieties ; and when once a beginning is made, great improvements may be effected by selecting a few of the best varieties for seed.bearing. E. Hobd.^y. Ramsey Ahhen. SINGLE VARIETIES OF SAVEET WILLIAM. Ltke the Stock and the Wallflower, the Sweet William, even iu a single state, finds a place in every gai-den. It requires but the amallest possible amount of care to produce it in its greatest beauty. IE the soil in -which it is planted be but fairly good, it will grow and bloom in perfection without any trouble, requiring no special attention, not even the help of a stick to support its heads of bloom. To get the Sweet William in fine form, fresh seedlings should be raised every year ; the seed should be sown in the open ground thinly, early in May; by so doing it germinates rapidly under the influence of the summer's increasing heat, and comparatively large plants are thus ready for planting out in the autumn. If, how- ever, tho seed be sown in a box or pan, or in any confined space, the seedlings should be planted out into some vacant piece of ground as soon as they are large enough to be moved with safety, and then they may be transferred to their per- manent places at leisure in autumn. Plants that are intended for the mixed border ought to be very strong before planting out, so as to throw up numerous beads of flower, which will support each other against rain and wind, while small plants throw up one head only, which is almost sure to be broken, unless supported by means of a stick, and tied. Like all plants that produce compact lieads of bloom, the Sweet AVilliam is most effective when grown in a mass, as then the peculiar evenness of height and flatness of truss that charac- terise it are seen to the best advantage. A large bed of it produces a grand effect, scarcely two plants having flowers exactly alike as regards markings, but all equal iu size of truss and roundness of pip. Such a bed is worth a long journey to see, and would create no small enthusiasm iu the minds of many who have, under the influences of bedding out and other specialities of plant growth, almost forgotten the existence of the Sweet William and other old favourites. There are several forms of Sweet Williams in cultivation, the finest being a strain that is a sort of fusion of tho old Auricula-eyed and Hunt's well-known variety. Uoth of these kinds produce large heads of bloom, the Auricula-eyed having, in every case, a distinct white eye with a margin of some dark colour; but most of tho flowers are what is known as saw-edged, that is, jagged and uneven in outline — a great drawback, which materially detracts from tlieir beauty. Hunt's strain produces largo pips of varied colours, few having white eyes, but most of them have fairly smooth edges. A good combination of these strains now furnishes fine varieties without these defects, the pips being larger than a shilling ; they are pro- July 8, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 33 duced iu large trusses, and of tlie most varied hues of colour. Usually this combination produces a majority of light flowers, dark ones being the exception. As a rule, also, the dark- coloured flowers are smaller and inferior in quality to light Improved Strain of Sweet William. ones ; but no doubt they are amenable to careful selection, and probably will be improved and become equally good very shortly. PujiPLE-LEA'siD SwEET "WiLLiAM (Diauthus barbatus atro- purpureus). — This is a useful, fine-foliaged plant for winter decorative gardening, and, excepting the Ajuga reptans atrosanguinea, it is almost the only hardy plant that gives a deep Perilla-like tint during the winter months. The foliage is larger than that of the common kinds, and although green in the seedling, yet, as the season advances, the colour be- comes of a copper-purple, and keeps so until the plants throw Purple-leaved Sweet William. up bloom. The flowers are of rather poor quality, but by no means unattractive ; they are very effective in a mass, but individually inferior to those of the best strains. The chief value of the plant, however, lies in its hardiness and in the colour of its foliage. Seed should be sown early in May, and the usual plan of pricking off adopted, to secure thriving plants for the winter. In a few districts this plant is largely grown for market. A. D. EAISING NEW VARIETIES OF CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES. " Every florist worthy of the name either does or ought to aim at raising seedlings which are an improvement on older varieties ; in this, indeed, liesjthe chief and true secret of delight in floriculture." So wrote the late Dr. Horner just eight-and-twenty years ago, and no writer was better able to state a truth in clear and forcible language than he was. I have had (says Mr. George Rudd, in the "Florist"), considerable practice in cross-breeding, and in making the following observations on the subject :— " I desire, at the onteet, to impress upon the mind of every interested reader that it will be only by the most careful selection of the parents and the perfect ripening of the seed, that varieties worthy of cultivation and likely to confer fame on the raiser can be expected. From neglect or inability — it matters little which, save that one is a fault, and the other B. misfortune— to get the seed perfectly ripened, wholesale disappointments have arisen, and I venture to assert, aa an axiom beyond dispute, that unripened seed cannot produce a healthy .con. stitutioued or long-lived issue. Assuming, however, that these great causes of failure have been avoided — the first by selection, after attentive consideration of the parents, which, if possible, should be of robust habit, more especially in the case of the seed- bearing or mother-plant, and which should bear flowers of the highest properties in the eyes of the florist — the work to be done will bo very simple. In the first place, let the operator provide himself with a snSicient quantity of small squares of parchment for labels on which to record the crosses he effects, and assuming his varieties are numbered, and his first cross is Admiral Curzon (No. 1) and Dreadnought (No. 6), he marks the label thus : indicating that pollen from No. 1 has fertilised the ovary of No. 6 ; and this label being attached, the work pro. ceeds. Some time last year I noted that a writer recom. mended resort being made to single or semi.double flowers for the purpose of obtaining pollen, on the ground that pollen could rarely be found in double flowers. I desire em- phatically to record my protest against such a dogma, and to repeat what I have already stated, that no improvement can possibly be hoped for, save by starting from the most advanced point yet at- tained. And it is a mistake to assert that pollen cannot be obtained from double flowers. Let the would-be operator know how to seek it, and I will guarantee he will rarely seek in vain ; whilst, if pro- perly manipulated, such varieties will rarely refuse to bear seed. My practice is, a short time before the flowers proposed for seed- bearing are fully expanded, or the anthers or poUen-beai'ing vessels have burst (covered with fine dust) , should the variety be very full of petals, to remove a few of the inner ones and the anthers with a pair of small tweezers or scissors, being careful to remove each petal singly, and leaving the horns or styles untouched. Then, as the styles show they are expanded at the ends, apply pollen from the variety with which you desire to fertilise, the best time for the opera, tion being about nine a.m., as at that time the heat of the sun will not probably have dried the viscid moisture to be found at the points of the styles, and without which no fertilisation is likely to result. To prevent this evil — the drying of the secretion on the points of the styles — it is a good practice to shade the flower, which will then be preserved much longer in a suitable condition for the operator. Should it, however, be found that from any cause the points of the styles have become dry, it will be well to cut off the extreme ends the night before you desire to fertilise the variety ; and if the flower be not very old, the cross will, as a rule, be certain to take effect. The great difficulty experienced by the beginner is the finding of the pollen, some varieties producing very little. A few sorts, however, as Sir J. Paxton, S.B., and Brunette, Red Picotee, carry it well up in the centre of the flower, where it will be readily distinguished. In other varieties, the pollen will be found partly down in the pod ; and again, in some other varieties, though none has been perceptible to the eye, I have found it by introducing a camel's-hair pencil into the bottom of the pod, and working it amongst the petals, thus showing tolerably con. clusively that in such varieties the pollen is quickly shed. A great enemy to pollen is thrip, and where this abounds it is nearly impos. sible to obtain any. In such circumstances, my practice is to cut the flower I desire to use as the male parent before complete expan. sion, and permit it to develop itself in water iu a cool room, and then I have generally been successful. A very little pollen will be effective, if properly applied. For this purpose, as I have said previously, I use a small camel's-hair pencil, damping it before commencing by drawing it through my lips, and to obviate the retention of too much moisture, passing it again between my finger and thumb, thus obtaining a fine point, with which I can col- lect the pollen from a single anther at once without waste ; and this, properly applied, will be found sufficient to fertilise one bloom ; so that from a fertUe, poUen-bearing plant a considerable 34 THE GARDEN. [July 8, 1876. nnmber of flowera may be fertilised. About the second day after fertilisation — varying somewhat with the age of the flower operated ■npon— the bloom will coUnpse, and from this time forward, until the ripening and gathering of the seed, the ovary should be carefully yarded from wet, which otherwise will surely destroy the work and hopes of the hybridiser by rotting the incipient seed. Let the flowers hang down till the petals are decayed, when they should be carefully removed one at a time, care being taken in the operation neither to injure the seed-vessel nor styles, which should remain on as long as they will. The calyx, also, should be split down so as to give room for the seed-pod to expand and prevent the lodgment of damp. When the pods are ripe, which may be discovered by their change of colour from green to straw, and by their fulness and hard- ness to the touch, they may be gathered, cutting the stems aa long as possible and hanging them in a cool, dry room. When thoroughly dried pack them up and put them away in any cool, dry receptacle, until required for sowing. There are some varieties which frequently do not throw np any styles (John Smith, R.P., for instance) ; in this case it will be neces. sary to lodge the pollen on the top of the pericarpium, where the styles spring from. The earlier fertilisation can be commenced the better, as thus the plants have a longer time and opportunity to ripen the seed, which, when the season ia wet, is very difficult. Finally, let all bear in mind that the finest seed, and therefore the finest plants, will always be produced from the leading blooms. Obtaining Hardy Border Plants. — I am extremely fond of hardy herbaceous plants, and had a tolerable collection of them, but having had a long illness, and being afflicted with a gardener who has remorselessly dug up my borders, will you kindly direct mo to some nurseryman who has a really good stock of the various kinds of Campanulas, Aquilegias, Delphiniums, &c. I cannot now recall the names of wnny I once had. I find that our local nurserymen deal exclusively in bedding-out plants, stove plants, and rai-e things. None have really any good plants of the old-fashioned flowers of which I am fond. Clove Carnations, white and crimson, I am anxious for, as well as single Peonies, which are BO very beautiful ; of Phloxes I have plenty. If you could tell me where to go for these things I should be much indebted to you. — B. F. B. [We print this aa a hint to provincial nurserymen respect, ing the difficulties which the public experience in procuring supplies of plants which are now becoming very popular.] NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. (Enothera eximia.— I bn,vo a bed of this now in fall beauty, in which I conntod MS fully expanded blooms this evening (Juno 28) shortly after 9 p.m. Their fragrance scents the whole garden. This beautiful plant seems to luxu- riate in our hot, shallow, chalky Buil.--H. Haepue Cbrwk. Perpetual-blooming Rose (Rosa semperflorens). — This now nearly-for- potten Rose is sometimes found in old country gardens under the name of the Crimson China ; it is quite hardy, a profuse bloomer, and ought to find a plnco on sunny walls evorywboro, along with the better-known monthly China Hose. It was introduced to this country as long ago as 1790. and was for a time ex- tremely popular. It grows and flowers freely in pots, and may not unfrequontly be met with in cottage windows. It is readily propagated by moans of cuttiuga, and will grow freely in any good garden soil.— B. Tolmiaea Menziesi.— This is a curious rather than handsome Saxifragoous plant from Oregon, related to Tiarella. It propagates naturally and freely by adventitious buds, produced at tlie junction of the leaf-stalk with the blade, in the manner of Begonia. Wo have flvo plants of it that show this, sent by Mr, Hall, of Illinois, who directs attention to the peculiarity. lie states that any of the leaves may be taken off and used successfully for propagation. — Aha Ubay. The Summer-flowering Triteleias.— Hitherto these have been tliought little of in comparison with the now popular spring-flowering kind, but they are very beautiful hardy flowers, and when seeti in well-grown specimens will be thought among the finest of their kind. Triteloia Murrayana antl 1'. laxa are both now in bloom, and we find they last a considerable time when cut. Our Native Orchids.— The different varieties of these now in bloom consti- tute the prettiest wild flowers which we have at present in the north, and thoso about t') form a wild garden should make some special preparation in it for their growth. Thoy grow abundantly in some parts of Northumberland, and thoso who liavo hud no opportunity of seeing thorn in their native wilda can form no correct idea of their beauty.— J. T. Cyclobothra alba.— This is full of bloom. It has boon kept in a pot in a cold fnirao during the winter. It is a very floriferoua species, each bulb pro- ducing from six to eight flnwer-buds, and the texture and appearance of the bloom are very remarkable. It looks as it it wore made of satin spar. — H. llAttrun Ckhwb. Sedum glaucum,— I havo a pan full of this protty carpet Sodum, about 18 in. in diameter, now a perfect mass of bloom. Small and comparatively in- eirootive as the individual flowers arc in the mass, thoy aro really beautilul. This pan was flllod more than flftogn months ago.— D. THE F R U I T GARDEN. GLASS-HOUSES versH/< WALLS FOR FRUIT- CULTURE. Perhaps there is not another country in the world where there ia such an amount of money invested in, and so much skill and perse, vering energy applied to, fruit-culture, with such a small return in the way of fruit crops of a certain class, as in Great Britain. If, for example, it be considered how much money it takes to erect good garden-walls, and the labour expended in the making of suitable wall-fruit borders — the oonoreting, the draining, and the bringing in of good soil in the majority of localities — for these preliminaries the outlay is immense. Then there is the purchase of expensive, trained trees — the annual and constant care required in pruning, pinching and training, besides the almost continuous battle with a numerous train of destructive insects of one sort and another, and the abortive expedients put in operation annually with the object of saving the blossoms from frosts and blasting east winds. The sum total of capital invested and labour annually expended is, we might almost say, appalling in comparison with the return in crops of good fruit in the case of such aa Peaches, Apricots, Pluma, Pears, &c. This, it must be admitted, ia of wide application. The wonder is that this losing game has been so long and perseveringly persisted in. We are confident that, in the case of any other department, ao fruitless an expenditure would soon be abandoned in despair. No doubt the necessity for walls as a fence and for shelter accounts for this state of things to a great extent. In a great many localities a good crop of frnit about once in five years ia about aa much as can be counted on ; and perhaps, taking one year with another, the returns in some localities would not pay for the shreds and nails necessary for train, ing the trees. This rule does not, of course, apply to those parts of the kingdom that are more favoured in the way of climate and soil ■ and in their case walls do good service in producing fine dessert Pears and atone fruits. It is not to these districts that we wish these remarks to apply. Yet, even the most favoured spots in England are not always free from such weather as destroys even wall. fruit crops. But in such unfortunate districts as those to which we are directin" our remarks, an amount of disheartening mishaps to wall-fruits has to be faced annually, which, it is not too much to say, would serve to put an end to any other pursuit ; while, at some altitudes, the work is stoically carried out without any hope whatever of gaining the end in view. In times, happily now gone by, when glass waa dear, and there waa no ateam-driven machinery for wood-work, there waa leas cause to wonder at the persistency with which ugly walla were built, and hid. den out of sight of the mansion as an eyesore, and more as a necessary evil for the purposes of a fence and shelter to tender crops than any. thing else. What can be uglier in a park landscape — especially it it can be looked down on — than a square piece of ground hemmed in with hideous red brick walls ? It is as complete a blot on any land- scape as can be well imagined ; and in the making of new gardens now, there is but little excuse for the erection of walls in localities where the climate ia not such as to make them give a fair return in fruit-crops. Now that machinery driven by steam has taken the place of the ordinary saw, plane, and mortising chisel in the construc- tion of the wood-work of glass-houses, and glass is lesa than halt the price it waa at one time, a brick wall ahould never be thought of in many localitiea for the growth of certain fruits. The difference between the construction of a 15-in.or 18-in. brick wall, and the ereo- tion of span-roofed glass structures, is not very great ; and wo are certain that we are within the mark when wo say that tho bearing surface protected with glass would, taking the average run of seasons yield quite three times as much and finer fruit than tho same surface of walls. If this be so, then, it is beyond a doubt that the same money expended on glass as ia necessary for walla would yield a larger and better return in fruit, while for the mere purposes of shelter, that can be attained in a much more ornamental way than by building ugly and unproductive brick fences. Of course, in the case of old places where tho garden walls already exist, it is easy to cover a portion of them with glass, and on a comparatively small area secure three times tho amount of produce that the whole wall-surfaces • now furnish of certain fruita. This is a class of structure now becom- ing more appreciated than it has been, and one which cannot be too strongly recommended, not only for tho certain return in the way of frnit, but for the pleasure which it yielda. No doubt some may bo prevented from adopting glasa instead of bricks and mortar, from tho impression that glass. houaea aro very expensive in tear and wear. It should, however, bo remomborGd that glass-houses, kept cool and airy and comparatively dry, require very little paint compared with ordinary plant and forcing houacs; and also that houses, as now erected, with a minimum of wood and a maximum of glass, require not half eo much paint as the old style of houses. As a matter of July 8, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 35 poands, shilHngg, and pence, even glass-houses will pay better than brick walls in very many localities when devoted to the culture of the fruits named at the commencemant of these remarks. Besides, such erections can be profitably mado use of for other purposes besides fruit culture. Perhaps some may be inclined to say that we are now merely advo. eating the orchard-house system — one which is common enough. It is not quite our aim to do that. What we wish to recommend to those who may have new gardens to make in bad climates is, instead of going in so heavily for mere bricks and mortar, to invest their money in glass with the absolute certainty of getting regular crops of good fruit, instead of running a hundred risks on the bare-wall system. Then, as to the furnishing of such erections, some may ask. Are we to cultivate in pots or in borders in the usual way ? To the amateur or small grower who would like a variety of fruits from a small glass- house, pots do very well ; but where fruits are wanted of the very best quality, in great quantity, and with the least possible labour, we say plant your trees in well.prepared borders. The expense of furnishing a house with trees in pots is much greater than that of furnishing it with trellis-trained trees. The after-labour is also much more, and the chances of failure are also in. creased by having recourse to trees in pots. As has already been remarked, the system is only to be recommended when a great variety of fruits in small quantity is the object from a small house. And if expense be not an object, pot.trees may be had recourse to in the body of any glass-house or case till the permanent trees come into bearing and cover the roof. Stone-fruits of all sorts and some varieties of Pears do very well in pots ; and such Apples as the White Calville are worthy of a place in such structures, both as permanent trees and in pots for a while at first. — " The Gardener." THE COVENT GARDEN BLACK FIG. A VEEY distinct variety of Fig has for some years past Black Bordeaux Fig. been imported to Covent Garden in limited quantities from the south of France under a variety of local names, the correct one being, however, Black Bordeaux, or Violet Longue of the French. It is quite different in shape from any other Fig with which we are acquainted, and the colour is a dead purplish-black. For market purposes, this Fig has many recommendations ; it ripens early, and therefore it can be sold to the best advantage while other Figs are scarce, and its tough skin enables it to resist the damage incidental to transit by steamer and railway. Its flesh is deep red in colour, and peculiarly sweet and delicate. It comes to the market in May and beginning of June, and may be purchased at about 3s. to 4s. per dozen. The annexed engraving, made from specimens sent to us by Mr. Webber, represents a fruit of average size. B. Thinning Grapes. — Grape-growers are all agreed upon one point, namely, that the sooner Grapes are thinned the better. If done soon after the Vines are out of flower, the operator ought to be practically acquainted with the habits and characteristics of the difierent varieties, for if he be not, he will bo unable at so early a stage to distinguish between berries that are fertilized and those that are not. To produce a bunch of Grapes well formed in all points, is, in the case of some varieties, a difficult matter, in others we have little more to do than to assist nature. Every skilful Grape- grower knows that what is termed a well-finished bunch of Grapes cannot be produced by chance or hap-hazard ; it is much easier to grow large bunches than to finish them well. It is therefore hardly possible to over-estimate the value of early thinning ; the Vine is relieved of a needless drain upon it, and there is no need to disturb the fruit in order that the operator may get at the berries which he wishes to remove. One evil belonging to thinning Grapes when in an advanced stage of growth, is that if the point of the scissors gets moist with sap from the fruit-stalks, and the acid touches the fruit, it produces a spot that the bloom will never cover, although the berries may be in every other respect perfect. The hair-like streaks that we sometimes see upon otherwise beautiful black Grapes are often produced by the point of the scissors at an early stage of growth. It is a well-known fact that the bloom of Grapes roughly handled when growing never becomes perfect. Seeing the fruit shown at Edinburgh last autumn, I visited several notable places in the North, from which no fruit was sent to the exhibition, and in one and all of them I was struck with the quality and finish of the Grapes. At Dalkeith I saw a bunch of the Madresfield Court which weighed 2i lbs., as perfect in every point as any of us had ever seen a bunch of Grapes. — J. Thomson, Sliawion. FRUIT FARMING. At the last meeting of the Midland Farmers' Club, held at the Great Western Hotel, Birmingham, the Rev. W. Lea read a paper on " Fruit Farming." He said the chief point to bring forward for die. cussion was, " Will it pay a farmer in the present day to make the growth of fruit a portion of the regular work of his farm ? " A few years ago he should have answered without any hesitation in the affirmative, but before he did so now he should first inquire into the condition of the labour market in the district in which it was pro. posed to plant. Fruit was an article which must go off when it was ripe. If it were not gathered and marketed, some sorts would be spoilt, and to gather it a certain amount of women's and children's labour was required. It this were at command, one difficulty would be removed. The questions of soil and situation should, of course, be considered. There were few soils, even the lightest sands, which would not bear some kind of fruit. But before a man began to plant he should ascertain, from a careful inspection and inquiry in the neighbourhood, what fruits were congenial to the soil, and confine himself to those sorts. Next came the question whether the land- lord or the tenant should plant; if the latter, would it pay him to plant on a seven, fourteen, or on a twenty-one years' lease; and, if he left at the end of these terms, what compensation should he receive, and from whom should he receive it — from the landlord or from the incoming tenant ? He was of opinion that the best arrangement would be for the tenant to plant, and for the laud- lord to undertake to pay, at the end of the lease, the cost price of all trees left in healthy condition, and interest upon the outlay at 5 per cent, per annum. Fruit planting was profitable both to landlord and tenant, if properly done, and the sorts well selected. The advisa- bility of planting young fruit trees in a hedgerow must depend a good deal on the age and strength and nature of the hedge. If it were of old vigorous Quick, the roots would probably have taken such an entire possession of the soil that a stock newly introduced into it would only lead a sort of languishing existence for several years, perhaps, and then die away. But if any one wished to try the experiment, he should recommend him to plant wild stocks, and graft them with the sorts desired. If a hedge were being planted, there would be no such difficulty ; the fruit trees would have the same chance as the Quick, and both would grow up side by side together. This plan would be worth trying, or indeed the first-mentioned, provided the hedge were between two arable fields. If it were batween two Grass fields, or with a Grass field even on one side, the advantage would be questionable, for the cattle, in trying to get at the fruit-— of which they are very fond — would probably do as much harm in breaking the fences as would be covered by the profit of the fruit. Some damage, too, would unavoidably be done to the hedge in the gathering of the fruit. Planting an orchard on turf was compara- tively expensive, which was a point decidedly to be taken into account. A good deal of labour was required to do it well, and if not done well, it were better not attempted at all. On the whole, it was questionable whether it would pay to plant an orchard on turf, except on some banky, sloping fields, with a south aspect, which seemed specially adapted to the purpose. Then came the third alternative, which seemed to him the most desirable — to plant an orchard on a well-fenced piece of arable land, as near as may be to 36 THE GARDEN. [JnLT 8, 1876. the house, and from which cattle of all kinds are to be entirely ex. clurled. Kero it might be done at much less expense, as no protection would be required, except against ground game. Supposing an acre to be square, it might bo cultivated in tn'ownjs — (1) by planting standard fruit trees in rows 30 ft. apart, and by filling up the space between with ro ft s of Plums and bushes; (2) by standards — Apples, Poar3,and Cher. ries,by Plums or Damsons, by bushes, Currants (either Black or Red) , and Gooseberries. According to this plan, the whole field would have to be cultivated with the ep.ade, and would take pretty well the whole time of one man, if it were throe or four acres in extent. What was called " pot frnit " was required now as a rule. The Apples and Pears which paid best were those which came in earliest, and which kept latest. These last probably brought the highest price. But when the cost of storage and of picking over had been deducted, he doubted if they paid so well as the first. If they were going to bny trees, let them go to the nurseries themselves, select and mark the trees to be sent in the planting season. They were not necessarily to pick out the biggest, but rather vigorous, healthy young stocks which showed no sign of having been checked or stunted in their growth. They should not go in for too many varieties of fruit. On his three acres he had more than 100 sorts of Pears, 40 of Apples, .30 of Plums, to say nothing of Currants and Gooseberries. From his own point of view this variety was necessary, for he was e.^perimenting to see what sorts wonld best suit the locality and pay the best ; but to farmers this end. less variety would be very troublesome, especially if the specimens were dotted about in different parts. The best plan, if they were planting a hedgerow, was to plant it all with one sort of fruit ; then one going over the ground, or at most two gatherings, sufficed, and a vast deal of labour and confusion were saved. So, too, in orchards, whether on turf or arable. If they had several sorts, let them keep each sort in a separate row ; or if more than one row of the same sort were desired, they should have the rows together, so that that portion of the ground might be cleared at once of its produce. They should be very careful about the pruning for the first three or four years, until the heads were got into shape. After this the trees might be left to themselves, merely cutting out the branches which inter. Jaced from time to time. Pinching versus Pruning.— If you are certain that a bud, when developed into a branch, will be superflnons — will grow out where a branch is not needed, or will come in conflict with other branches — yon had better pinch it off, and let the nutriment that would go into the branch and be wasted, be diverted to those branches that are to remain. The horticulturist, or the amateur, who can spend a few hours a week for the next four weeks among his Pears, Peaches, Plums, and Cherries, or among his Grapes, Raspberries, shrubs, or flowering plants, watching their growth, and practising a little judicious pinching, will be likely to have more symmetrical and stronger trees and plants than the one who neglects to prune during their growth, and does all in that line after the suspension of growth. — "Rural Home." [No doubt judicious pinching, calculated to throw the vigour of the bush or tree into useful channels, is one of the best ways of pruning, but great care should be taken not to follow the injurions practice of over.pinching, as is frequently practised with the Pear and Apple in the form of miniature trees.] NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FRUIT GARDEN. The Black Knot of Plnm and Cherry Trees.— This is the subject of an important luemoir, illustrated by plates, in the " Bullctm of the Harvard University." The p.apor is illastratod by three beautiful plates, showing this disease iu various stages, and the whole structure, development, and fructifica- tion of Sphieria mortosa of Schucinitz, the f unRua which produces this black knot, which so deforms and injures Phim and Cherry trees throughout the Northern States and (Canada. The remedy is the knife or axe. For proventioa Dr. Farlow recommends the extirpation of choke Cherry trees, upon which the pest largely breeds in the vicinity of Boston. Farther west it would be necessary to destroy all the wild Plum trees (Prunus amoricana), which are fearfully infested. Thinning Pears.— The only way to insure fall-sized specimens is to thin out early in tlio summer. With Apples, Pears, and Peaches, this thinning can be done in July, the smallest ones being pulled oft, and the more advanced and perfect left. In orchard management, I have often plucked off half of the Pears on the trees, literally covering the ground with (|uarter. grown frail. When gathering time came, what were left on would measure and weigh (|uite as much as if none were taken off, while their market value would be two-fold, at least ; I have known of cases when it would bo four times oa much, with no injury to the trees. There arc some kinds of Pears that will lie more respon- sive to thinnmg than others, and will pay liberally tor the labour. Kinds that set thickly, like Wdham, Louise Bonne de .Tersev, Ducheaee d'Angonl^me, Belle Lucrative, and Doyenne; Boussock, should always be thinned when the fruit is the size of a Walnut. When two Po.ara come close together, one may be pulled off, and the remaining one, at the end of the season, will eiiual the two in size, and be greatly superior in quality. High culture and careful thinning of Apples and Pears (says Mr. Quin, writing in " Scribuer's Monthly,") are the only sure road to success. A HYBRID PRIMROSE. (rRniL'L.l ISTERMEDI.V). The variety of Primrose which we have selected for otir plate this week is a garden hybrid, raised by Mr. Fuller, of Leeds, between P. ciliata aud P. auricula, and sent out by Mr. W. Hull some years ago. It was awarded a certificate by the Royal Botanic Society in 18(3.5, and has been recently shown by Mr. G. F. AVilson, who cultivates it very success- fully, and also by other growers of hardy Uowers. Its habit closely resembles that of some of the dwarf forms of Alpine Auriculas, its flowers, purplish-crimson in colour, with a conspicuous yellow eye, being borne on stout, erect scapes. It is delicately fragrant, and well deserves culture on sheltered portions of the rook garden, where its richly-tinted blossoms are seen to advantage. In addition to the interest attached to Primroses as hardy spring-flowering plants, they arc of great value to the hybrid- iser, owing to their dimorphic condition. Many experiments with these dimorphic or long and short styled forms of Prim- rose have been made by Darwin, who has established the fact that a pin-eyed flower cannot bo adequately fertilised by a thrum-eyed form of the same species, but that when the style, or pin and anthers, or thrum ai-e equal in length (in separate flowers), fertilisation may be accomplished. Alluding to this fact, a recent writer says : — " The first natural inference, of course, would be that the unfertility of the pin-eyed or thrum- eyed flower was due to the style and stamens being stationed at a distance from each other ;" but Darwiii at once removed this misconception by going through the process of fertilising them artificially. The pollen, too, was found to be of diffei'ent dimensions in the two cases, and the style also different. When the experiment was made with difi:'erent flowers, the stamens of the thrum-eyed flower were found to fertilise the pin-eyed style, both being at the same level at the mouth of the tube of the corolla, while the stamens of the pin.eyed flower fertilised the style of the thrum-eyed flower, each being respectively situated low down in the tube of the corolla. In experimenting, too, with distinct species, it was shown that the pollen of one of two forms of the same species, and not that of the other, would fertilise it. It has long been known that species A will fertilise species B, while species B will not fertilise species A, but the extension of such an exception to two form? of the same individual .■species was an important step gained in connection with cross- breeding. Although the attempt to fertilise the pin-eyed and thrum-eyod flowers with pollen of their own stamens may, in a general way, be called ineifectual, they were neverthe- less not absolutely sterile, but a remarkable resemblance was found to exist between seed so obtained and its pro- duce, and those of hybrid unions between different species. It is a singular fact that wherever dimorphic forms exist in any group of plants, as iu Primula, Calceolaria, Phlox, &c., many of the species are found to hybridise freely, and this leads us to ask. Can dimorphism be the result of previous natural hybridism, or is it intended to facilitate the production of healthy progeny by cross-fertilisation, as is here shown to be the case ? In connection with this singular dimorphism in the Primrose family, it is interesting to find that natural hybrids are unusually plentiful in this genus, no fewer than twenty-five having been described by Professor Kerner, of Innspruck, some of which are very beautiful. B. Cultivation of Jaborandi and Eucalyptus. — Among the prizes instituted by the Socioto d'Acclimatation this year is one of 500 francs for the cultivation of Jaborandi (Pilocarpus pinnatus) in France or Algeria. The prize is to remain open till the let of December, 1885, and the conditions of its award are that the plant shall have been snccesstully cultivated upwards of five years, and that at least during the latter years the cultivation shall have ex. tended over a demi-hectare. The cultivation must also be a com- mercial success. Another prize of 500 francs, to remain open till the same date, i3 offered for a " Practical and Theoretical Guide to the culture of the Eucalyptus." The authors are especially to make an investigation based ou comparative experiments. ;ppiementto Tin. /.'iin/iii. Office JZ Soulhamplon Street. Covent Garden. London. W.C, A HYBRID "PP-IMULA ( P intermedia . Hoit.) July 8, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 37 SUPEKFLUOUS BOTANICAL TERMS. Is not botany alieady auiiioiently encumbered with technical terms ? — a fact which has often been pointed out. Mr. Sachs says : — " According as the union takes place between (1) different varieties cf one species — between (2) different species of one genus — or between (3) two species belonging to different genera — the resulting hybrid may be termed a variety. hybrid, epecies-hybrid, or genus-hybrid. When a hybrid is made to unite with one of its parent forms or with another parent form, or with a hybrid of different origin, the pro. duct is termed (4) a derivation-hybrid. If we accept the above there is no reason why we should not add many more. The hybrid united to one or another parent form, or with another of different origin, is as well deserving of a substantive name as the union between any of those which he designates variety, species, or genns-hybrids. If we accept these practically worthless terms to express unions which, in a great majority of cases, there is doubt as to the actual parentage — to the exclusion of the old terms hybrid and cross, which are well understood, and which sufficiently express in a general way our ideas upon this subject — we might as well give up generic names, and confer the honour of a specific title upon every shade of difference in plant fertilisation. Mr. Saohs would call a union between two species of different genera genns-hybrids. But why this, when hybrid alone expresses it just as well ? And why call the union between two varieties of the same species a variety. hybrid, when the union is not a hybrid union, and when the simple word " cross," with which we are all familiar, expresses the relationship just as well ? We ask how many instances there are in which it is positively known that seedlings have been produced from the union of species belonging to different genera ? And in these well-anthenticated instances (few or many) is it not a stronger evidence of an erroneous botanical classification than of the degree of relationship implied by belonging to different genera ? Again, we would ask how many instances are positively known in which such hybrids have been made to cross with parent forms, with other hybrid forms, or with any other forma ? Surely such rare instances may better be described by combining the old words " cross " and " hybrid," properly so called, and to modify them with an adjective or so suited to the case. But scientific men — to their discredit, be it said — seem to delight in conjuring up new and difficult words, as if they were thus adding to the sum of information, instead of muddling their books with a mass of nonsense to render thrice difficult that which is already too difficult — to confound the student, and to discourage him from thorough study and investigation. — " Moore's Rural." Art at the Academy. — It is time that a plain word should be said ; that what is being everywhere spoken in the ear should be proclaimed upon the house-tops. Let it then for once be openly said that the majority of the works of academicians which hang upon the lino are matters for contempt to every one with sympathies above the most vulgar and commonplace ideas ; that the educated public will no longer stand them ; that the poorest man who has been blessed with a heart to feel and a head to understand what is truly noble in art would scorn to hang them on his walls, or to show them to friends as his property, if he were offered an annuity to do so ; that so far from the Royal Academy being an influence for rais- ing public taste and perception for art, it is, in virtue of a large proportion of the works it most prominently exhibits, an engine for debasing and vulgarising public taste; that if the works of some seven or eight at least of the most pro- minent and prolific exhibitors, who write R.A. after their names, were collected and neatly piled in a pyramid, well served with petro- leum or other inflammable substances and set fire to, and if a small slice of public money were voted to give pensions to their authors on condition of their never painting another picture, an important step would have been taken in the way of raising public taste, and pro- viding for the advancement of Eaglish art. — H. H. Statham, in " Fortnightly Review." The Crimson Horse Chestnut.— Visitors to Glasnevia must be greatly im- preesed with the marvelloos tree beauty of the fine symmetrical specimen of Horse Chestnut, (^senilis Hippooastanum var.rubicunda), which is aprominent feature in the centre of the grounds, and which is justnowclothed with myriad thyrses of delicate crimson. Tho Hon. Daines Barrington aptly likened a tree of the normal form to a giant's nosegay. The similitude could apply with even greater force to this most beautiful and telling variety. Why is it not more extensively cultivated ? Lllinm Chaixii.— For this I am indebted to the kindness o£ Mr. Maw ; it has just opened a bloom, and proves to be very pretty and distinct, so much so indeed that it is sure to become a favourite.— H. Hibfdk Cbewi, DraJt) tt. trom the front porch to the back wall. On each side ot the central passage in this wall-fernery, for such It is, are built rockworks containing small caves and nooks suitable to the various requirements of its numerous lubabitants all of which are in excellent health, the tree Ferns nilmg the domes overhead ; while on their stems I observed several patches of Mungo Park's Moss. Here, too, are seedling J< ems coming up by the thousand, and were it not for judicioul pmnniug they would soon be wrestling with their associates in the struggle for life. Plants of Adiantum Capillus-Veneris measure some 3 ft. through, and A. venustum is equally large while Pteris scaberula may be said to have run wild. Ihe height of this house inside is 18 ft., and its back wall is covered with feelaginella denticulata, intermixed with patches ot Adiantums, Pteris serrulata, Davallias, and other Ferns, as Shown m the accompanying illustration, the whole forming a perpendicular wall of verdure 16 ft. in height and 100 ft in length. Large murors, too, introduced hero and there, make the house appear twice as large as it is ; two rustic fountains are placed at each end of it, and round these is planted LobeUa repons which, though Lardy, thrives remarkably well here amid shade and moisture. The ends of this house, I ought to remark, are faced with wire netting, and between this and the wall the space (6 in. in width) is filled with peat and leaf- moud and planted in the same way as the back wall, to the height ot i) it., the rest being glass. The doors are covered with Uak bark in as rustic a way as possible, that at the west end opening into the Filmy Fern-house : this is a low-roofed rustic-house, about 12 ft. square, and all the heat it gets is through opening the door between it and warmer compart- ments. In this house are to be seen fine specimens of Todeas, Trichomanes rcniformc, T. radicaus, T. polyanthos, Hyraeno- phyllums of various sorts, and some really excellent British JuosseSf Passing outside, amidst a profusion of festooned creepers and hanging-baskets, by means of a flight of three steps, one reaches the other ranges of glass. The first is devoted to the cultivation of Camellias, all of which are in excellent condition. This house is a lean-to, 24 fc. long and 15 ft. wide, the back wall being 14 ft. high, and the roof entirely covered with a plant of the Marechal Niel Rose, from which upwards of 2000 blooms are cut annually. The next house is a Vinery, 30 ft. long and 13 ft. wide, filled with Lady Downes Grape ; the next, also a Vinery, 21 ft. long, is full of Black Hamburgh; from this one enters the conservatory, which is 52 ft. long and 18 ft. wide, gay late in autumn and winter with Chrysanthe- mums, Primulas, Cyclamens, Roman Hyacinths, &c. A notable plant in this house is Sparmannia africaua, which flowers the whole winter through. Large plants of Heliotrope are planted against the back wall and flower profusely. The next house — which, until lately, has been used as a Melon-house, but which is now converted into an early Vinery — has been the subject of a somewhat novel experiment. A Chaptal Vine was planted some years ago in the corner of it next the con- servatory, taken through a pane in the division wall, and trained to a wire above the passage ; it soon grew the whole length of the house, which is 52 ft. ; on converting the house into a Vinery the gardener, Mr. Clark, pulled this Vine-rod back and laid it beneath the soil at the back of the pipes the whole length of the house, turning it back about 2 ft. above the ground, and again placing the top beneath the soil for nearly the whole length of the house. On the middle or raised portion he grafted a number of varieties, and among others the Duke of Buccleuch, Black Hamburgh being placed at regular intervals along the rod in case the newer sorts should fail. This operation was performed in April, and every one of the grafts at once pushed strong shoots, so that by September the whole length of the rafters jwas covered with well-ripened, short-jointed wood, and each rod was allowed to carry two bunches, which were good both in cluster and berry. The next house is a Vinery, 36 ft. loug, in which is grown Bowood Muscat, which bears good crops of large bunches of clear amber-coloured berries. In a corner of this house is a plant of Gros Oolman, a kind which has large bunches and berries of great size and as black as Sloes. The next and end house is devoted to the cultivation of specimen plants, such as Azaleas, Heaths, and other kinds of hard-wooded plants, which, when in flower, are taken to the conservatory, and their places are filled during the summer mouths with the various kinds of Pelargonium. The whole of these ranges of glass is heated by two oval-flued boilers. In front of the glass houses is a steep Grass bank, on which are cut long scroll beds with round beds between them ; these were filled last season with Pansies, the best of which were Golden Gem and Sovereign in the yellow class. Alpha (purple), and Dickson's White Beddcr, which is the best white. Prom a knoll on the eastern part of the grounds a splendid view is obtained in every direction, and on each side of a narrow walk at the top of the kitchen garden, and leading to this point, are some healthy bits of Alpine plants, for which a more suitable place could scarcely have been found. This knoll during the summer is one sheet of Dianthus deltoides and Polygala vulgaris, changing from blue to white, and many other interesting plants. R. M. W. R. The Nkill Pkize. — This has been awarded to Mr. I. Anderson. Henry, Edinburgh, who certainly well deserves it. We are pleased that it has in this case been awarded to a gentleman well known in connection with horticultural progress and effort. When one sees for the first time the names of men to whom this prize is now and then awarded, one thinks of many really distinguished Bcotohmen who have never been thought worthy of it, as, for example, Mr. Mamock, Dr. Moore of Glasnevin, and Mr. Niven ; not to name others who have deserved equally well of their profession. Of course the Council can not desire to limit the prize to persons in their own immediate neighbourhood. We quote the following extract from Dr. Neill's Deed of Settlement :— " To the Caledonian Horticultural Society the sura of £500 sterling, for the purpose of the interest thereof being applied in furnishing a Medal or other reward, every second or third year, to any distinguished Scottish botanist or culti< vator to be voted by the Society." JuL\ S, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 89 A WAIL-FBRNERY AT PARSONS GREEN, EDINBURGH. 40 THE GARDEN. [July 8, 1876. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAIKBS. Pelargoniums. — The beauty of large-fiowered kinds that have been the first to bloom will now be over, and it is not desirable to allow them to push a second growth and flower again, which they will it not interfered with, as this prevents their being cut down and making growth that will bloom early next spring. If there be a scarcity of plants to take their place, and flowers be required, a portion may be allowed to go on blooming for a time. Move at once the plants that flowered first into the open air, so as to get the wood ripened before they are cutback ; if maturity be not effected before cutting back takes place, they will not break either evenly or freely. Place them in the full sun in an open situation, but do not all at once withhold water, aa that course stops further growth ; no harm will, however, be done by letting the soil get dry enough to cause them to flag for a few hours ; then give water, and when again dry let them go a little longer before applying any, and in this way, by degrees effect the ripening process of the wood, which in a few weeks will assume a hard brown colour, after which the shoots must bo removed to within from three to half-a-dozen eyes of where they were headed back to the preceding year, according to the size of the specimens, allowing the greatest length of shoot to remain in the case of young plants which it is desirable to increase in size. Do not let them get saturated with wet during thunder-storms or continued rains. When there is an appearance of such occurrences lay them down on their sides. Plants that are wanted to be in flower some weeks longer should be well supplied with manure-water, particularly if in small pots, and these very full of roots. What are called fancy kinds push their flowers almost all together, and after the general head of bloom is over they should be cut back ; they must not, however, be cut in nearly so close or into the hard wood as the large flowering sorts, or the result will most likely be the loss of the plants ; neither will it be well to expose them in the open air in the manner advised for the other kinds ; a pit or cold frame, after flower. ing, will be the most suitable place for them, never subjecting them to such extreme drought as the large-flowered ones will bear. They are equally impatient of too much wet, which is generally the cause ct their dying suddenly in a way which they often do. Some well. managed plants of these fancy kinds have been lately exhibited by Mr. James, of Isleworth, grafted on the large-flowered sorts. I can bear testimony as to the soundness of the practice, having tried it myself many years ago, and found them when so grown much less liable than they otherwise would be to die off ; the kinds used for stocks should be such as are of medium strength, strong.growing varieties, of which the well-known Rose Celestial may bo taken as a representative, do not answer so well as others less vigorous in growth. Plants of these fancies have no doubt been grown on their own roots equal to any that are likely to be forthcoming when grafted, but that has nothing to do with the matter, so long as they can be made to succeed with greater certainty when grafted on stronger. rooted kinds ; it is the delicate nature of their roots which cannot bear the slightest excess of water that causes them to die off. Ama. teurs will find no difliculty in grafting Pelargoninms, as they submit to the operation very readily. I did mine in March, when the grafts and the shoots at the point of juncture were both green, but mode- rately firm ; I merely removed a few of the leaves from both, split the shoots of the stock down the middle a couple of inches, and pared down the grafts wedge.shapo to fit, bound them sufficiently tight to hold them secure in their places with bast and kept them a little close for two or three weeks, slackening the ligature as growth required it, and being careful afterwards to remove all shoots that sprung from the stocks below the point of union. Variegated Fine-leaved Plants, now so much in fashion, are very cseful decorative subjects, and there are numbers of them that amateurs who have nothing more than an ordinary greenhouse may successfully cultivate. If the house have Amines on the roof, they will receive much less injury from them than ordinary floweiing plants would. Indeed, in hot sunny weather some will rather be benefited than injured by the shade the Vine leaves afford. Amongst the most suitable are the different kinds of variegated Yucca, including the well-known Y. variegata, the smaller.growing Y. quadricolor, and the nearly allied Y. Stokesi, a very handsome sort, with stout leaves less drooping in habit than those of the kinds jnst named. These will all do well grown in ordinary turfy loam — if of a rich yellow desorip. tion, all the better ; use a good sprinkling of sand with it, and put 2 in. of drainage in the bottom of the pots, and over that an inch of fibrous pieces of the soil ; in potting ram the soil pretty firm. Yuccas are slow growers and moderate rooters ; consequently they ehoald not have too large pots. When they get well established they will be much benefited by manure-water being given them every week throughout the growing season. The first essential is to obtain plants that are clear from scale, especially the white kind, to which they are very liable, and which get down to the bottom of the leaves at their jnncturo with the stem, a position from which they are difficult to remove without injoring the plants. The handsome Yucca filamentosa variegata willalsosncceed under thesame treatment, although it does well grown in strong heat. Another beautiful easily- managed plant, that might with advantage be much more extensively grown in both large and small collections than it is, is the Japanese variegated Enrya (E. latifolia variegata) ; it is a plant which has a free, dense. bushy style of growth, and the leaves aro very bright green and white, tinged with red when young, afterwards becoming a rich creamy.white ; it is a plant which succeeds well in either peat or loam, the former being the most suitable where it can be had of good quality ; the shoots should be stopped now and then whilst the plants are young, in order to induce them to break, but not so much as to give them a too lumpy, dwarf shape. Coprosma Baneriana variegata is another free-growing plant, very suitable for a small house ; it does well in a mixture of fibrous loam and leaf-mould ; it makes a handsome pyramid, when tied to a stick and occasionally stopped so as to get it to branch out down to the bottom. Hydrangea argentea variegata and II. aurea variegata are handsome plants, which, as a rule, succeed well in good, ordi. narj', well-drained loam. They may be struck from cuttings in the spring or summer, and require but little attention afterwards, except cutting out the shoots when they have ceased flowering, so as to keep them bushy, confining the plants to the growths that spring up each season from the bottom. It is a good plan to strike a few Hydrangeas every year, as then the old ones can be discarded when too large. Abutilon Thompsoni is valuable alike for leaves and flowers ; in small houses it is best grown from cuttings struck annually and con. fined to a single stem in 8-in. or 10-in. pots; hut, if preferred, they may be stopped low down and induced to break three or four shoots, each tied to a neat stick, or if, after a season's growth, the plants are headed down, they will break up freely, and may be made to produce several shoots in this way. A. vexillariura variegatum, also a fine kind, succeeds under similar treatment; both do well inordinary loam, being free-rooting plants ; they need plenty of water, conse. quently require a porous soil. The two variegated varieties of Aralia Sieboldi — S. argentea variegata and S. aurea variegata — are handsome plants with ample foliage, very distinct in character. Cuttings of these made from shoots that have sprung from plants that have been headed down, taken off with a heel, will root if placed in small pots in sandy loam in a warm, close atmosphere ; they will succeed in either pit or loam, but the colour is brightest in loam, the leaves smaller, with a less disposition to come green. These Aralias should always bo confined to a single stem ; when they are allowed to branch they become less effective. One essential in their management is that they should be continually turned round in the house or pit in which they are grown, or they get drawn by the light to one side so much as to make the stem crooked, a condition in which they do not look well. Then there are the several variegated forms of New Zealand Flax (Phorminm tenas variegatum) that are very desirable plants, and although naturally robust in habit, there is no necessity for getting them to a size larger than can be accom- modated in a limited space, as they are plants which readily submit to division. A handsome small specimen, with two or three crowns, may be kept in a 9-in. or lO-in. pot, in which the erect, sword.like leaves stand out in pleasing contrast to other plants of more spread- ing habit. Any of the varieties — there is not a very wide difference amongst them — succeed well in ordinary loam, to which add a fair proportion of sand. To the above may be added the Chinese Aspidistra lurida variegata, which, although hardy, is one of the best greenhouse variegated plants of moderate growth, usually coming much better coloured indoors than in the open air; it looks best in moderate-sized pots — say such as are 7 in. or 8 in. in diameter — in loam, each plant being confined to two or three crowns. Agapanthus nmbellatas variegatus is deserving of a place both for its leaves and flowers ; like the green form it will succeed with little attention, merely requiring to be sheltered from frost, and fairly supplied with water; it can be increased by division of the crowns, and does well in common loam. Nerium oleander variegatum can be successfully grown and flowered in G-in. or 8.iu. pots ; it is best to strike the cuttings in the autumn, after the growth has been well matured by exposing the plants to the open air, so as to get them thoroughly ripened ; the cuttings ought to consist of about 10-in. lengths of the tops of the shoots, and should be struck in a little bottom-heat without submitting the tops to much warmth, or it will sometimes have the effect of causing them to go off into growth ; cither sandy loam or peat will do for them, keeping them moderately dry during the winter, but not so aa to injure the leaves at all, applying more water when growing. The plants can bo grown on after flowering, and their tops afterwards taken off and struck ; or they can be headed down, and, when started into growth, the soil partially shaken out, replacing with new. Jtjlt 8, 1876.] THE aARDEN. 41 Greenliouses. The difficulty with which most plant cultivators have to contend at this season is how to maintain a sufficiency of atmospheric mois- ture under glass to keep the various subjects grown under such con. ditions healthy and vigorous. The difficulty, too, is rendered all the greater where the house contains both growing and flowering plants, as then the former are necessarily deprived of a syringing overhead, which to them is so essential and refreshing after the exhausting effects of a hot, sunny day. Under such circumstances, it is neces- sary to make a free use of water so as to thoroughly wet both the under and upper parts of the stage, and every portion of the house available for the purpose. This should be continued more or less frequently, according to the state of the weather and other circum. stances, such as the absorbing properties or otherwise of the floors, pathways, &c. ; but at this season it can scarcely be overdone, so that there need be little fear of excess. In cases where the under parts of the stages are paved, much benefit will be derived by strewing them with a good depth of shingly gravel, coarse sand, or coal ashes, which, if well watered, will afford a continuous supply of atmo. spheric moisture as the air passes over them. This may be augmented by a free use of the syringe among the p^t3 early in the morning and just before closing in the evening; under this treatment, young, growing plants will be enabled to make considerable progress, while those in bloom will derive much benefit by being kept fresh and vigorous. Atmospheric moistare is only second in importance to that at the roots, and if changes in either take place too rapidly the plants suffer in health. By affording the requisite humidity in the air, the soil dries much less rapidly than it otherwise would do, and, therefore, the plants derive a double benefit from its use. Many of the hardier greenhouse plants, such as Acacias, Grevilleas, Lomatias, and even Camellias and Azaleas that have made their growth and are sufficiently forward may now with advantage be removed to some sheltered, shady situation, to gradually inure them to the change, with a view of giving them a more sunny position later in the season. This gradual change will prevent the leaves burning or becoming discoloured, which would probably be the case were the plants placed at once under direct sunlight, and, if injured in this way, the effects remain for the rest of the season. Where it can be had the shade afforded by a living screen, such as dwarf trees or shrubs, is always preferable to that of walls or buildings, as it is the soft night air and refreshing dews that enable them to recoup themselves after the exhaustion caused by the heat and aridity of the day. Camellias should be kept well syringed both morning and afternoon, until they become gradually inured to the change, when they may be drawn from under the shelter a little way to enjoy more light and air. Wherever they are placed it should be out of reach of the wind or strong currents of air, both of which would cause a too rapid drying of the soil, and rob them of atmospheric moisture, so essential in their case as regards health. The heavy and frequent waterings which plants necessarily require out-of.doors are sure to attract worms beneath their pots, and unless some means be adopted to keep them out, they are sure to enter and block up the drainage. A piece of slate ought therefore to be provided for each pot to stand on, which by fitting close to the bottom will effectually exclude worms, while admitting at the same time free egress to water. Stoves. Eoof.climbers, such as Stephanotis, Clerodendron Balfourianum, Allamandas, and Bougainvillea glabra, will now be in full beauty, and should have plenty of light and air, with just sufficient shade to protect them from the strong heat of the sun during the middle part of the day, by which means the colour and texture of the flowers will be greatly improved, and their lasting properties when used in a cut state proportionately increased. The rich yellow of the Allamanda, coupled with its fine form and large size, renders it valuable for dressing low, flat vases.fiUed with Lycopods,for the blooms to nestle in ; and, when associated with the various-coloured Gloxinias, small Cactus blooms, or similar flowers, they produce a striking effect, and last for some time in fall beauty. To cut the entire shoot, with its cluster of unexpanded buds, is a great sacrifice ; and by simply taking the individual blooms as they expand, and using them in this way, a single plant will afford an almost inexhaustible supply for the whole of the season. All the above-named are very suitable for con. servatory decoration, when grown in pots and specially prepared for the purpose by being trained neatly on trellises and properly hardened. Any that have already undergone this process, and are sufficiently forward, may at once be removed to suitable positions, which should be out of reach of cold draughts or strong currents of air. To ensure their safety, keep the plants as dry at the roots as they will admit of, without actually flagging till they get well over the change, as sodden soil with a considerably reduced temperature would have a very preju. dioial effect, owing to the comparative state of inactivity of both root and top for some time after their removal. Many plants of tender habit will bear a great amount of cold if kept dry, although they would quickly succumb if subjected to much moisture as well as cold. Coleuses, although now looked on as somewhat common, make good decorative plants when bushy and well grown, a condition in which it is easy to have them where a pit or light compaitment of a house can be devoted to their culture. If subjected to the slightest shade they soon become drawn and present a weedy appearance, owing to their being long-jointed and losing those rich brilliant tints that render many of them so highly attractive. To develop these to the full they should have plenty of light with a sufficiency of air during the heat of the day, and be closed early to induce free growth and get them of suitable sizes for the purposes required. Wetting their leaves detracts much from their beauty, and therefore what atmo. spheric moisture is requisite to aid them in their growth should be applied beneath and around them instead of overhead. Pot them in rich light soil and water freely at the roots as they progress, their quick-growing nature and abundant leafage rendering frequent appli. cations necessary. As soon as they attain sufficient size they may at once be removed to light airy positions in the conservatory, where they will stand for the next two or three months in great beauty. Panicum variegatum, with its beautifully variegated leaves, forms a pleasing contrast to the rich dark colours of the Coleuses when used as an edging to hang over the pots or vases in which they are placed a purpose for which it is most suitable. A few bits placed round the Coleuses when shifting them will soon grow to a sufficient size and length to make them effective, and pots of it are always useful for furnishing stands in the foreground or for drooping over the sides of stages or shelves. Marantas will soon be at their best, and where wanted for decorating halls or other cool structures, they should at once be gradually hardened off in order to fit them for such purposes. The nature of these plants renders them suitable for standing in positions out of the sun. They are, therefore, admirably adapted for embellishing entrance halls, associated with Ferns or Palms, most of which can bo used with good effect in places of that kind. In light dry situations the leaves of Marantas curl or droop, giving the plants an uninviting appearance, from which they do not readily recover unless replaced in moist, close heat. Any that have been recently divided, or that are likely to be required for succession later in the season, should be potted in rough loose soil, and be well supplied with water at the roots, in order to induce them to develop fine healthy leaves, which they are sure to do, if, in addition, they have the necessary heat and atmospheric moisture. Caladiums, to be really serviceable, should now be subjected to a moderate amount of air and a much cooler temperature than that to which they have been accustomed while growing, otherwise, when they are removed from the close, moist heat of the stove, they will droop almost immediately. Their appearance is improved by the use of a few neat small sticks to support the main leaves, so as to prevent them from overlapping each other. — J. SnEPPAKD, Woolverstone Pari:. Some of the Mexican Ljelias are represented to be rather shy. flowering plants, but that must be a mistake, inasmuch as newly, imported specimens show them to be very floriferous, at least in their own country. The fault is that, with us, they are generally grown in too close and too shady a place. They flower from the tops of the mature growths, and if the latter be not properly ripened through the free admission of light and air, the plants frequently start into premature growth, and the flowers for that season, and probably for the next, are lost. All this section of Laslias has showy flowers ; it comprises L. autumnalis, L. furfuracea, L. anceps, and its varieties ; L. albida, L. majalis, and the varieties of L. acuminata and of the L. cinnabarina class. L. majalis is perhaps the most beautiful of them all, having flat, pale rosy flowers, each 4 in. in diameter. Mexican Laelias seldom thrive well when grown on ordinary stages in the Orohid-honse ; but if a small stage be erected for them over the doorway, or in some other convenient place as near the glass as possible, so that they may be all grown on it together, they will be found much less difficult to grow and flower than they usually are. Failing this, they should be suspended from the roof of the house or placed on a shelf. They may be grown on blocks or in baskets ; but if the stage just recommended be prepared for them, they should be potted in well-drained pots in fibry peat. Any part of the house shaded by trees during the liottest part of the day is the best place for these plants in summer, and in such a position they will require no other shading ; but should such a place not be available, the thinnest shading only should be used, and that should be applied only during the middle of the day, to prevent the plants being scorched by the sun's rays. Care should be taken that a proper circulation of air be maintained at all times. They should be grown 42 TEE GARDEN. [July 8, 1876. in the intermediate honse, and a plentifnl supply of water should be given thorn nntil the growths have filled out to their proper size, when they should be sparingly watered until the flower-spikes appear, which they generally do iu autumn. During the resting season they should be kept oool and rather dry, bnt they should not be allowed to shrivel. The chief points to insure success in the culture of these plants is to keep them as near the glass as possible, to admit plenty of air, and to exclude as little light as possible. The Brazilian Lajlias of the L. purpurata class are stronger plants, and may be gi-own in pots and placed on the ordinary stage, but a free admission of light is essential, in order to induce them to flower well. The sunniest part of the house should be devoted to them, and the strong, growing Oncidiums, such as O. tigrinum and 0. leuoochilum, which like similar treatment, should be associated with them. — James O'Brien. Indoor Fruit Department. Peaches. — Trees from which the crop has been gathered should be syringed on all fine days, in order to keep the foliage clean and healthy until it drops naturally. If the trees and borders be old, let them have a thorough soaking with manure.water, and be after, wards mulched. Where the lights are movable, clean and paint them if necessary, so as to be in readiness for another season. Growing erops should be encouraged by shutting up early with a moist atmo. sphere, and frequently assisting them with manure.water ; syringe them forcibly and freely, in order to prevent insects getting esta. blished — in short, any amount of attention should be paid to preserve the foliage in health. Fruits that are ripening should have plenty of air both night and day, and any leaves that shade them should be removed at once. Prevent the fruit from falling to the ground by placing a net or tiffany in a position to catch them. If the crop be heavy, the fruits frequently drop before they are quite ripe, and maturity may at times be effected by placing them in a warm house. If they are to be packed for travelling, they should be gathered a day or two sooner than for home consumption. — J. Hunter, Lamhton CastU. Hardy Fruits. The present is an unusually busy time in this department, as all small fruits are ripe, or ripening, and require to be picked as soon as ready, or birds make sad havoc among them. All that is to be left for dessert or for purposes of exhibition, should be at once securely netted over, and, even then, mice or rats sometimes sadly injure it, therefore set traps for these in time, as " prevention is better than cure." Previous to netting up Currants or Cherries, see that the trees are clear of aphides, or perhaps when required for use the frnit will be dirty and worthless. The worst infected shoots and leaves may be picked off, and the others well washed with clear water, applied by the garden engine. Strawberries are an excellent crop, and, as soon as gathered, runners should be layered in BO-sized pots, both for forcing and for forming new plantations — that is, if for forcing they have not already been layered, advantage having been tiken of the present season's forced plants for that purpose. Ground that is now being cleared of early Potatoes or Peas should be got in readiness for planting them as soon as the runners are well rooted ; they will then have time to get thoroughly established, and the crowns ripened before autumn arrives, and will consequently yield a full crop of fruit next season. In dry or exposed situations Hasp, berries will require deep mulching and watering. A few days of such scorching weather as we have recently had dries them up, and the fruit remains hard, turns brown, and dies off, all of which may be prevented by tho timely application of water and mulching, which must bo continued (if rendered necessary through the want of rain) after the fruit is gathered, in order to have good canes for next season's fruiting. The weakest canes will doubtless have been thinned out by cutting off or pulling them out long ago; assiduous attention will still be required in the matter of stopping and training in the now growths of all kinds of fruit trees on walls. Peaches, Nectarines, and Morollo Cherries may all now have their next year's fruiting shoots tied or nailed in, as the case may be, in doing which avoid the too common error of retaining too many ; all should be freely exposed to light. Any secondary growths or sub-laterals which they make must bo closely stopped back by pinching with tho finger and thumb. Plums and Pears in many instances have set their fruit so thickly that thinning of it is imperatively necessary (1 wish I could say the same of all fruits), and it should at once be completed, so that the fruit allowed to remain may reap tho full benefit derivable from the thinning oro the growing season is on the wane. Where possible Pears should now be liberally watered, and that with manure- water, as it is when the frnit is about half.grown they require most nourishment, and, as a matter of course, benefit most by its being applied at that time. — W. Wilusmith, ifec^ieW. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. SIMPLE ASPARAGUS CULTURE. One of the errors in Asparagus culture is crowding the plants closely together in the bed. A deep excavation Is made, which is filled with rich materials, and the cultivator, in order to get the most of the narrow space which has cost so much labour in preparing, sets the plants so near together that they crowd each other in growth, preventing their free development. We have urged on former occasions the superior advantages of giving less attention to preparing a deep bed, and allowing more space for their growth. The largest plants wc ever saw were those that were thus allowed abundant room, with only the common depth of good garden soil. A gentleman whose garden we have occasionally visited, and who knows well how to grow the finest vegetables for his family, gives us the fol- lowing details of his management of Asparagus : — The plants in the first place are set about 1ft. deep ; the .shoots readily find their way to the surface. The rows are 6 ft. apart, and the plants are set 3 ft. in the row. The ground is cultivated and kept clean through the summer. In autumn, after growth has ceased, and the stalks have been cleared away, two furrows thrown apart are ploughed with two horses right over the crowns of the plants. The wide furrow thus formed is filled to a depth of 5 in. or G in. with old well-rotted manure, and the soil is then ploughed back, covering it. In alternate years superphosphate is applied at the rate of half a bushel to 50 running ft. in a row, instead of manure — both together would answer well. With this treatment each year, the plants will have attained a full growth iu five years, and each plant becomes a stool of shoots fully 2 ft. in diameter. One of these stools has thrown up no fewer than 200 shoots, some of them If in. in diameter. An essential part of the treatment for the preservation of the vigour of the plants, is to cut the shoots for the table only from alternate rows in each year. This prevents exhaustion. Inrunning the deep furrows over the crowns of the plants, as already described, if the crowns or the roots happen to be torn, no harm results, bnt rather benefit, the plants being at that time in a dormant condition. During the growing season, care is taken not to injure them, and the rows are cultivated with a horse, and kept clean like a common corn.field. This treatment of Asparagus is intended only for family supply ; whether it would be the most profitable for marketing has not been tried. The gentle- man whose management we have described, informs us that he is familiar with the course which was pursued in the intro- duction of Oonover's Colossal Asparagus, which strongly corroborates the advantages of this wide planting. This sort was set on rich land, the roots being 5 ft. apart each way, and a similar enriching of the ground given each year. The plants assumed colossal dimensions, and a few i)rominent horticul- turists having being induced to visit the grounds, high recommendations followed, and this variety obtained a high name. — " Tho Country Gentleman." [It is fair to the raiser of this variety of Asparagus to state that in this country, tried under similar conditions with the old kind, it proves dis- tinct, so far as can be judged up to the present time.] HISTORY OF THE TOMATO, OR LOVE APPLE. (r.VCOPKllSICUM ESCULENTUM.) The Tomato, or Love Apple, is the fruit of a herbaceous plant, liav- ing a hairy stem and rank smell, belonging to tho Nightshade and Potato family. It is a native of South America, whence it was early introduced by the Spaniards into Europe, and used as a vegetable. The " Bon .lardinier " (1818) describes the Tomato as coming origin, ally from Mexico ; bnt Sabine, in a paper read on this plant before tho Horticultural Society in 1819, said that there is no authority for this statement, for though Hernandez in his History of Mexico mentions it, he does not particularly distinguish it as a native of that country. South America being tho native country of this vegetable, it was of course unknown to the ancient Greeks and Romans ; still, the name Lycopersioum is stated to have originated with Galen, a celebrated physician, who lived about A..D. 131, but it has not been ascertained to what plant it was given. The name is derived from hjcos, a wolf, and i>ersicon, a peach, implying that the frnit was of auoh inferior quality, aa to be fit only for the use of that animal, JTTLT 8, 1876.] THE GARDBIs". Gesner, an eminent nataralisfc ot Zurich, born in 1516, entered into acme inveatigations of Galen'a on the sabjeet, but they did not lead to a certainty, and his opinions are criticised by John Banhin. An. guillara, an Italian, in a work published in 1561, conjectures that the Lycopersicum of Galen was the Tomato, and on this authority it is said to have acquired in after times the name ot Lycopersicum Galeni. In the "Adversaria" of Pena and L'Obel, published in 1570, it is called Poma amoris, Pomum aureum, and Lycopersicum quornndam, in conformity with Anguillara's conjecture. In the " Elemena de Botanique " of Tournefort, 1694, we find he adopted Lycopereioum as the name of the genua in which he placed the particular plant now treated of. Dodoens, a Dutch botanist, describes this plant as grown in his time in the Continental gardens (see his "Pemptades," published at Antwerp, 1583), and that the fruit was eaten dressed with pepper, vinegar, and oil. It appears by the " Hortus Kewensia " to have been cultivated in England in the year 1596, but it must have been introduced some years previously to that date, as Gerard mentions it in the early part of his volu. minous " Herbal" (published in 1597), which must have taken some years in compiling and printing: — This author calls the Tomato Pomum amoris, and aays, "Apples of Love do grow in Spain, Italy, and snoh hot countries, from whence myself have received seeds for my garden, where they do increase and prosper." He also tells us that " there hath happened unto my hands another sort very notable with the former, only the fruit thereof is of a yellow colour." Par. kinson, in his " Paradisna," published 1656, says, " that the Tomato grows naturally in the hot countries of Barbary and Ethiopia, yet some report them to be first brought from Peru, a province of the West Indies. We only have them for curiosity in our gardens, and for the amorous aspect or beauty oE the fruit." There is no record when this vegetable was first employed as an esculent in this country, but Miller, in his " Gardeners' Dictionary," published iu 1752, after describing them, says they were much used in soups in his time. Being a native of hot climates the crop very much depends on the season in this country ; when it is favourable large quantities are produced in the open air. As far back as 1818, being a very fine Bummer, the growth of this vegetable round London exceeded the demand. Mr. John Wilmot, of laleworth, states that from a crop of 600 plants that season he gathered 400 half-sieves. The fruit on several single plants probably weighed 40 lbs. ; some of the Apples were of an extraordinary size, exceeding 12 in. in circumference and weighing 12 oz. each. It is stated that this vegetable, medicinally considered, is an excellent substitute for calomel, and can be taken when that valuable medicine cannot, and with less injury to the con- stitution (aee Mcintosh's " Book of the Garden.") In Fiance and Italy whole fields of this plant are cultivated ; so great is the demand in some parts of the latter country that there is scarcely a dinner served up in which it does not in some way or other form a part. Iu England the plant is more cultivated than formerly, and there has been of late an importation ot this vegetable from the United States preserved in tins. In a course of an extensive series of chemical experiments on plants by E. Solby, he found that the leaves and stems of the Tomato contained nitric acid. It is stated in the " Gardeners' Magazine," vol. x. (1831), that Tomato buds may be grafted on Potatoes, and plants thus treated produce good crops of both vege- tables. The old European botanists wrote the "name of this plant Tumatle. The Spaniards and Portuguese call them Tomates, which appears to be the original Peruvian appellation, and in Mexico this and several plants ot the Solanum genua are called Tomatles. There are several varieties of Tomatoes known by the form and colour ot their fruit. Duval, iu his "Natural History of the Solanum," notices their distinctive characteristics, and describes each as a distinct species ; but it is believed that they can all be referred to a common type, viz., the large Tomato, with deeply-divided, rough, hairy leaves and clusters ot yellow flowers succeeded by large lobed fruit of an orange-red or scarlet colour when ripe. Dr. B. Seeman, in his " Flora Vitiensia," or the description of plants in the Fiji Islands, mentions Solanum anthropophagormi (the Cannibal's Tomato), called Bogo- dina, being one of the planta which Fijians cultivate very near Bnre. ni-sa, or Stranger's House, where the bodies of the slain in battle are always taken to be feasted with the fruit ot this plant. — " Science Gossip." Best late American Potato.— Out of eight varieties ot Ame- rican Potatoea grown here last year, I find the best for use at the present time to be the Eureka. I had so poor an opinion of this Potato that I did not plant it this season — an omission that I now regret, seeing that its qualities are so good as a late keeper. When mashed and served with a little cream or butter, it has a pleasant and agreeable taste, different from the earthy flavour so characteristic of American Potatoes in general. Apart from this the Eureka has other good qualities to recommend it ; besides being white-skinned, it is firm in texture the haulm is strong and erect, and the tubers cluster closely round the stem. After weighing my crop last year I found the average weight per stem to be 8 lbs. The Beauty of Ver. mont and Comptou's Surprise, growing on the same plot, only yielded 5i lb. per stem, and Snowflake 5 lb. The whole of the above- named varieties were grown in the ordinary way — namely, iu rows 2 ft. apart. Here the Early Rose yields about 7 lb. per stem, grown in the same way. — J. Thomson, Shawdon. CROPPING FOR WIISfTER. From May till September is a period of the year of which, according to a writer in the "jField," cultivators should make good use, or they will be short of many things which are needed most between Christ- mas and June. . Sroccoli. — This is one ot the most important of winter crops The summer Cauliflower does well if it lasts till Christmas, which in tolerably mild autumns and early winters it sometimes does with the aid ot the Walcheren — the hardiest ot its class — Grange's Autumn Broccoli, and Veitch's Giant, and a little attention in the way of pro- tection ; but it is most commonly over before November is out, and then we look tor the Broccoli coming in to carry on the supply till next midsummer. Notwithstanding successional sowings and plant- ing, however. Broccoli cannot always be got to come in so regularly at any time as to prevent blanks occurring in the supply : everything depends on the weather, after all. It the temperature keep above the growing point the plants will grow apace, and keep dropping in slowly ; but if the thermometer drop sensibly below 40°, and remains so, the supply will come to a standstill without doubt. We cannot say that sowing at any period between February and the middle ot April, in a late district, ever gave ua heads either earlier or later in the winter, for we have paid attention to the matter often. The wisest course is to select a goodly number of varieties, which should comprise the beat and hardiest only, from the very earliest to the latest, and a dozen aorta will do this. The next point is to sow thinly, not later than the end of March, and to plant out from the middle of May till the end of June in late aituations, and till the end of July in more favourable districts, putting the earliest varieties out first. This is allowing a pretty wide margin as to time ; but we may state that, though we have had tolerable heads from plants put out in August, and many cannot get the work of planting done before then ; atill, we always contrive to get all finished by the end of June, and all the varieties are planted at the same time. If the weather be dry at planting time and for a while after, time is lost, for the plants hang fire so long before they begin to grow. Much, however, depends on planting. If the plants be got up carefully, with long top roots, and it these be let straight down into a good deep hole made with the dibber, and one thorough watering given at the finish, there is not much to fear. In warm growing seasons we have had young Broccoli plants with roots 12 in. or 18 in. long before they could be attended to, and they were planted thus : — A man with a broom-handle went along and made the holes deeper and wider than required, and another came behind and put them in and filled up. These plants always did well, and made giants before winter. The Broccoli likea a deep rich soil, but it may be ot a very loose character. Trenching, deep digging, and manuring of the ground is almost executed if it has been occupied by any of the Brasaica tribe just before. When Broccoli begins to head and come in in a regular way, the supply is often greater than the demand. When this is the case, the heads should be cut with a good quantity of leaves to them, and set in sand in a cool, dark shed or behind a north wall, with a mat spread over them, or they may be put into the ice-house. Here we have kept them for a month but after ten days or thereabouts they begin to taste when cooked. Brussels Sprouts- — It the ground be clear, these cannot be planted out too soon. The longer the period ot growth they have, the taller they will be and the more Sprouts they will bear. If very large Sprouts are desired, then high culture, aa for Broccoli, will be necessary, and the kinds which produce the largest Sprouts must be grown, such aa the Dalmeny and Dalkeith ; but with high. class cooks, and those who like to produce artistic dishea, the small hard Sprouts are preferred, as being most useful, and because they cook whole and green ; large and loose ones, divested of their outside blades, are faulty in these respects. A distance of 2 ft. or 2i ft. is enough between the plants when put out in good time, but the shorter the season of the growth before them, the thicker they should be planted. Savoys. — This excellent winter Green is preferred to Cabbage, and is much esteemed in some places. Its sprouts, which grow after the heads are cut, are not so useful, however, and cooks do not care 44 THE GARDEN. [July 8, 1876. o use the Savoy at all seasons of the year like the Cabbage. Only after it has received a touch of frost is the Savoy considered in season, and it is good to use it in early winter while it lasts, for the heads suffer sooner from frost than either the Brussels Sprout or the Cabbage. For bulk of crop, the old and somewhat coaise Drumhead is the best, but for better garden crops, the Dwaif Green and Early Ulm are among the best, being early hearters, and tender and good. These kinds may be planted almost as closely together as Dwarf York Cabbage, and they will heart, though put out as late as the beginning or middle of August even in the north, but a month earlier enables them to produce larger and firmer heads. The Savoy likes liberal treatment like the rest of its tribe. Cabbages. — As to these, a good breadth planted late in autumn or early in spring should — between the first cut heads and the hearted sprouts which they bear afterwards — carry the supply vfell through the summer and winter ; but, as a precaution, a sowing should be made in, July or August of any of the early dwarf kinds, and also of the early Enfield, to succeed the first lot. It is well to have a good supply of tender Cabbage in the winter months. Curled Greens.- — These are not the least important of our winter crops. They are run upon when others fail, and are always in demand from the beginning of winter till near the end of June. " Be aye stickin' in a tree" was Dumbiedyke's advice to his son; and we would say, " be always putting in Greens as long as you have any spare ground to fill." There are always plenty of families ill. provided with vegetables during winter who are thankful for a " boiling " if they can get them, and it is wrong to waste them, as is often done, simply through letting them run to seed. In the servants' hall they are very acceptable, and the fresh young sprouts in spring come in handy also for packing the London hampers instead of dead weight. It is not necessary to manure highly for Greens, but the ground should not be too poor. Still, we have planted the same ground for years in summer with Greens, giving them only the leavings of the manure-heap, and have never had reason to complain of an ill crop. It is seldom that the planting of them can be done before August, and we continue to put them in till September, as Potatoes and such like crops are cleared away. It may just be mentioned that there is no vegetable of the kind of which more is sold, and sold profitably, than Greens, especially in the provincial towns and their neighbourhoods. Hawkers carry them far and wide for sale in the populous districts in the north of England. Winter Turnips. — A good supply of these is a great desidera. turn during the winter and spring months. It is difficult to gauge the exact time to sow, but, making allowance for difference of climate, the main winter crop should be got in between June 20 and July 20, Bowing earliest, of course, in late districts, and later in the south and in early localities. Two sowings, however, are best, allowing a fort, night between them, and then a good standing winter crop is almost certain. Winter Turnips should not be above half grown when winter overtakes them, as they then stand frost and alternations of the weather better. Mature, full. sized roots are the first to give way. Moderately rich ground and a deep litter should be afforded them ; and when the plants are past all danger from fly, they should be thinned out to 2 ft. apart each way if sown broadcast, and if in drills, which is the best plan, the rows should be that distance asunder. Turnips which are thick on the ground never stand the winter well. Some people bow a later crop between the first and last weeks of August to succeed the first, but such a crop should not be trusted to. They may form usable little bulbs in spring, but the chances are that they will never come to anything, and run to seed the first thing when growth commences. Behind a north wall is a good situation for a winter crop of Turnips, as they are always in the shade during the short days, and not being so often frozen and thawed, they last better. Chirk Castle is by far the best variety for winter, being very hardy, white-fleshed, and good. "Winter Spinacb. — To afford constant pickings of this excellent vegetable throughout the winter, a greater breadth of it must be sown than most other things, as it does not grow fast enough to keep up the supply. The object should be to get the plants to that stage when they are about going to seed, before they cease growing. At this stage they have their first good leaves, and they are in a condition to stand the winter, and aro sure to produce plentifully next spring, and onwards till the end of May, well overlapping the early spring sowings. To produce these results sowing should not be delayed beyond the middle of August, and it is often necessary to sow a fortnight earlier than that, but, like the winter Turnips, two sowings had better bo made if the ground can be spared. Spinach likes a deep, rich, and rather light soil. Decayed vegetable litter or stable manure well rotted suits it well, and the manure BhonUl be trenched or deeply dug into the ground. Winter or prickly Spinach is the kind to sow. Eighteen inches between the drills is wide enough for the winter crop, and the seed must not be covered in more than an inch deep. When the seedlings are fairly up they should be thinned to 3 in. or 4 in. between the plants, and afterwards the surface of the ground should be stirred with the hoe. In picking for use the bottom and oldest leaves should be gathered, and the younger left to grow for sucoessional pickings. THE SUGAR BEET AND ITS VARIBTES. Messes. Vilmorin, Anduielx, & Co. have recently issued a circular, in which they give the following particulars concerning the Sugar Beet and its varieties ; — During the last twenty years the improve. ment of the Beetroot has never ceased to occupy the attention both of Beetroot growers and sugar manufacturers, to whom it is one of the most important questions of the day. It must, however, be remarked at the outset, in order to put the matter in its proper light, and avoid all misunderstanding, that the ideally perfect Sugar Beet is essentially different according to the country and con. ditions of its ^production. In places where, as in Germany, a tax is levied on the amount of Beetroots worked up, or what is the same thing, according to the capacity of the hydraulic presses, as in Russia, the rich roots which contain a large proportion of sugar in a small bulk obtain the preference, as is natural. In Prance, on the other hand, fixed custom, the nature of the rotations established between the manufacturers and growers, the important part played by the spent pulp for feeding purposes, all unite in favouring the choice of heavy roots of medium richness. There is reason, too, in this preference, for the varieties which grow into heavy roots are just those which give the largest amount of sugar per acre, although the yield of each individual root is less. For instance, we have rarely seen the German varieties, or even the Improved Vilmorin, give as heavy a figure of production for the same area as the Collet Rose variety. It is a generally admitted fact that the different varieties of Beetroot are rich in sugar in inverse ratio to their bulk. Taken in its general meaning this proposition expresses a profound truth, but it is also certain that judicious selection can vai'y this ratio and enrich a given variety of root in sugar without increasing its bulk. It is in such modifications as these that we must seek for the practical improvement of the Beetroot ; in fact, the point to be aimed at is the creation of a series of varieties which would give a maximum of i-ichness in sugai', but only in conjunction with a maximum of size characteristic of each particular variety. It would of course be vain to try and grow a Beetroot which would give both maxima at their fullest height ; the sooner, therefore, that such an idea is abandoned the better chance will there be of avoiding mistakes and useless researches. Great saccharine richness must necessarily be allied with abundant foliage and rootlets, and those varieties which are rich in leaves and rootlets cannot become large without losing the outward qualities of regularity and neatness, which aro in a great measure indispensable to a good strain of Beetroots. Starting, then, with this point in view, that the different circumstances under which the consumer and producer find themselves plaoed,necessitates different varieties of Beetroots, let us examine the varieties actually known, and see what they may become under the influence of the principle of selection properly applied. The White Sugar Beet of Silesia, which is the origin of all the others, is still preferred throughout the greater part of Europe ; the root is of medium size, almost entirely buried, with a white, slightly rough skin, the foliage being spread out rather than upright. It is rich in sugar, yielding generally from 12 to 14 per cent., and, under favourable circumstances, 45,000 kilos, per hectare. It will grow well even when crowded together, and does not require a very deep soil. It has beeu cultivated in Prance for many years, and has gained in size, yielding easily 50,000 kilos, per hectare. At the present time, when varieties rich in sugar are eagerly sought after, the Acclimatised White German (fig. 1) is one to be most highly recommended. There are also several sub-varieties which have been obtained by selection, amongst which may be men- tioned the Magdeburg, somewhat small, long, and very regular ; the Breslau, which is shorter and thicker; the Imperiale (fig. 2), first grown by Knauor, which is long, tapering regularly in the form of a Carrot, with light curly foliage drooping on the ground ; and the Electorale of the same grower, which is thicker, larger, and more productive, but not so rich in sugar as the Impi$riale. The Green.topped Sugar Beet (fig. 3), which is of French origin, is at present much less in vogue than it was fifteen years ago. It is, nevertheless, an excellent variety, larger, better made, and smoother than the Silesian Beet. The top, which rises above the ground only 2 in. or 3 in., is tinged with green ; the root is long, smooth, and white. This variety will give as mnoh as 60,000 kilos, per July 8, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 45 hectare, and from 11 per cent, to 14 per cent, of sugar. Manilfao. turers who have continued to cultivate this sort have every reason to be satisfied with it. In one case it yielded 8288 kilos, of sugar per hectare. The French Red-topped Beet (fig. 4) has been a favourite variety for many years past. Its fame is fully justified by a number of qualities, which seem to place it in the most advantageous position of all, that is to say, under the ordinary coiiditiona of Beetroot Fig. 1.— White German. Fig. 2.— Imperials. culture in France. It is of vigorous habit, which enables it to yield aa much as from 70,000 kilos, to 75,000 kilos, per hectare. Its shape is generaUy regular, and its richness in sugar varies from 10 per cent, to 13 per cent. In addition to its other good qualities, it keeps well. The foliage is strong and abundant, the crown j Qst rising slightly above the surface of the ground, so that it may be easily Fig. 3.— Green-topped. g. 4.— Bed-topped. pulled up without the saccharine quality of the root being deteriorated. The largest yield of sugar per hectare from this variety was 8881 kilos. The Grey-topped Beetroot (fig. 5), or the Northern Eeddish.grey, is the most productive and perfectly, shaped variety of all. The foliage is somewhat scanty, and about a quarter of the root is above the ground. This portion of the root is grey, greenish, or brown, and is smooth and even like the part below ground, which is more or less reddish. On the other hand, it is the least rich in sugar of all varieties of Beet, roots ; and it is now-a-days entirely out of favour with most sugar manufacturers. We believe the sentence to be somewhat severe, for the Grey-crowned Beetroot is capable of yielding, with proper culture, an amount of sugar per hectare that would rival those of the two other varieties just mentioned ; and we believe that it could be sensibly improved in the way of yielding an increased amount of sugar without losing its qualities of form and size. Vilmorin's White Improved (fig. 6) is the direct offspring of the Silesian White. M. Louis Vilmorin, by careful selection through several generations, has, as it were, compelled this variety to yield from 15 to 18 per cent, of sugar, a standard to which it has now kept for several years. Esperi- ment has shown that it would be hopeless to try and obtain a still greater yield of sugar, for the plant would then cease to grow with sufiicient strength. Efforts have been sncoessfally made of late to improve the shape and increase the productiveness of this new variety, and important progress has been made in these directions. At the commencement the production per hectare was 20,000 kilos, to 25,000 kilos., yielding 15 to 16 per cent, of sugar, but during the last few years the production per hectare has mounted up to from 40,000 kilos, to 45,000 kilos., with a yield of sugar of from 15 to 18 per cent. This variety has always been considered to suit the special conditions of manufacture and culture aa carried out in other countries besides F.g. 6.— Grey-topped. Fig, 6.— Vilmorin's Improved WMte. France, but seeing the modifications which it has undergone durmg the last few years with respect to its increased size and production, it might in many cases be adopted by French growers and manufac turers. By planting closely the disadvantage of the smallness of its size, as compared with other varieties, is got over, while, on the other hand, it has been proved by numerous analyses, more especially at the Arras and Senlis shows, that this variety surpasses all others, not only in the yield of sugar but in the purity of its 3uice, which contains less ashes and salts than any other, an advantage of the very highest importance. The above axe the charaotenstios and merits of the various sorts of Sugar Beets as cultivated in 1875. It is no longer doubtful, therefore, that new races can be obtained, and that existing varieties can be improved; but it is easy to perceive from what has just been said that we possess varieties of Beetroots which are adapted to the most diverse conditions of soil and climate, as well as to the most opposite modes of cultivation and manufacture. To attain this desirable end it is simply sufficient to be well acquainted with all the different varieties, and to know how to employ themi i the proper occasions. The Shoots of the Brake fern Edihle.-The young shoots of the Br Ferns, are. according to M. Louis Bohmer, much prized hy the Japanese aa an article of food ; the fronds are gathered when still undevelopad and used in soaps. So. 46 THE GARDEN. [July 8, 1876. WOOD PAVEMENTS THE WOEST. The Americans know better than we can know the precise value of wood pavements. For the past ten years or more they have tried this form of pavement in all their principal cities ; with them the material is not only abundant, it is cheap ; in comparison with our- selves, so far as wood is concerned, they conld, if it pleased them, pave their principal streets with that material almost for nothing ; and yet, in the most decided manner, they have, after a much longer experience than onr own, rejected it unanimously. Some time ago the Commissioners of Sewers in London addressed a letter to the Commissioners of Works in New York, asking them to favour the London Commissioners with a report of their experience of wood pavements. The reply was most distinct and emphatic. It says : — " In thoroughfares subjected to heavy trafiBo the best of wooden pave- ments are almost useless." " Very many complaints are made of the offensive and unhealthy effluvia emitted from them, and also of their being in many places unfit to travel over." " Various preparations of the wood have been tried within the last ten years, but all have failed." " Wood pavement is very expensive to keep in order." It hag, wo are further told, been decided in the law courts of the United States that a municipality is liable in damages for injuries to persons or property by accidents caused by the unsafe condition of highways ; and it was specially reported to the municipality of New York that very much of the wooden pavement in that city would, within a brief period, be reduced to a dangerous condition, unless properly repaired or repaved. This fact was also reported to our own Commissioners of Sewers, and yet, notwithstanding so explicit a condemnation, the same pavement is being put down in London. The Lord Mayor has, we believe, caused a portion of the best of our pavements to be removed in the City, in order to make room for this cast-off pavement of onr shrewd American cousins. Surely London is of sufficiently national importanco to justify the scientific and reliable determination of a question which is of such vital moment as — Which is the best pavement for the promo- tion of its health, its cleanliness, and its appearance P While the principal street in Washington is at this moment having its wood pavement taken up and the Val.de-Travers compressed rock pave, ment is being put down in its place, we in London are superseding a portion of our YaUde-Travers pavement for the rotten and exploded American wood blocks. It is a case that should call for a strict investigation. It is right that we should supply all the evidence in our power on this matter of wood pavement. The following is an extract from a publication of tho Hygienic Society of France, and is from the pen of the Chief OlEccr of Health in Paris :— " The science of public health," he says, " cannot regard with a friendly eye a street pave- ment composed of a porous substance liable to become impregnated with organic matter, and exhaling by its own decomposition miasmas which, from the large surface over which they arise, cannot be con- sidered as insignificant. I am convinced that a town, with a damp climate, entirely paved with wood, sooner or later would become a town infested with uiareh fevers. Tho experiments with wood pave- ments have happily proved a failure, and the system appears con. demned past all hope." We are glad to learn that great progress has been made in the compressed rook pavements in various parts of the metropolis. More than 200,000 square yards of this invaluable pavement have been laid down. There are now as many as seventy-nine noiseless streets in London, which are easily cleansed, which make no mud in winter, and are without dust in summer, which add not only beauty to the town, but unquestionably much health and comfort to many thousands of_ its inhabitants. One of the chief means of ninking London the fairest city of the world is a pavement that can for ever bo kept clean. — " Examiner." [We have watched with some interest the wood pavement being laid down in London, and with regret, con. vinced as we are that wood pavement, as compared with macadam or good asphalte, is costly, worthless, and exceedingly offensive, both in the process of laying down and afterwards. One point has been much talked of, the comparative freedom from danger of wood as a pave- ment. In Piccadilly, however, where it has been recently laid down we frequently notice that when wet in the morning after rain, or even after the water-carts, it is more slippery and dangerous than asphalte. The odour of the material continually wearing away is also a permanent nuisance, and the road in every way, as it seems to us, inferior to macadam. We therefore recommend all interested in making noiseless and good roads, to consider well before adopting this material. It is condemned already by those who know it, but its worthlessness as a road material will not be generally seen until it gets into a decomposed condition. — Ed. Garden.] Lawn Daisies.— Can anyone inform me if there beany way of clearing n lawn from Daisies, except by Inying Uio whclo down anew ?— iNqnimn. SOCIETIES AND EXHIBITIONS. CRYSTAL PALACE ROSE SHOW. June 30 and July 1. Tnis exhibition, although a successful one, was not so large as it would have been had the season been more favourable, and in the majority of the collections shown perfect blooms were the exception rather than the rule, more especially in the classes devoted to Hybrid Perpetuals. Mr. Cant, of Colchester, had the best blooms in the three principal nursery, men's classes. Messrs. Paul & Son, of Cheshunt, and Mr. Charles Turner, of Slough, had also excellent stands in the nurserymen's classes. One of the most noticeable points connected with the exhibition was the beauty, variety, and freshness of the Tea Koses, the best of which came from Messrs. Paul & Son. New Koses, — Amongst these the following were in excellent con- dition : — H. P. Marchioness of Exeter (Paul & Son).— This is one of Mr. Laxton's seedUngs, and is_ a finely-shaped, full, globular rose, and a welcome addition to existing kinds. The colour is clear rose, with silvery- lilac backs to the petals. H. P. Emily Laxton (Paul & Son). — This, which is another of Mr. Laxton's seedlings, has bright rosy petals of exquisite smoothness. It is a distinct Rose, but not equal to the last as an exhibition variety. H. P. Cheshunt Hybrid (Paul & Son). — A first-class crimson- purple variety now well known. H. P. Duke of Connaught (Paul & Son).— A full, velvety-crimson Rose, flushed with scarlet. It is a robust, English-raised seedling, and tho best of its class. H. P. Robert Mamock (Paul & Son). — A velvety-crimson variety of average merit. H. P. Mrs. Baker (C. Turner). — A crimson-purple variety, having a full fiery centre. H. P. Oxonian (C. Turner). — A full rosy-carmine variety, exquisitely cupped when perfect, and distinct from all others in colour. H. P. Miss Hassard (C. Turner) .—A well-shaped Rose of a delicate lilac colour, having a rosy-flushed centre. As shown on this occasion, it promises to be well worth a place among light-coloured kinds. Hybrid Perpetuals. — In the large open class for seventy-two blooms, Mr. Cant, of Colchester, was first. Prominent among his varie- ties were Duchess of Edinburgh, peach ; the well-known, Gen. Jacqueminot, fiery crimson ; Captain Christy, one of the best of new Roses, of a rosy flesh colour ; Thomas Mills, crimson-scarlet, a very fine bloom ; Louis Van Houtte, crimson ; La France, one of the most chaste of all rosy-lilac varieties; Marechal Niel; Senateur Vaissej the delicate pink Souvenir d'un Ami ; Mone. Etienne Levet, fiery-rose ; Souvenir d'EIise, a finely-shaped, creamy-tinted Tea ; good blooms of Marie Baumaun, rosy-crimson ; John Hopper ; and the smooth-petaled, crimson-purple Dupuy Jamin. Messrs. Paul and Son, of Cheshunt, who were second, had also fine flowers, but they lacked the freshness and beauty of those just named ; among them wei-e fine examples of Maurice Bernardin, bright crimson; Baroness Rothschild, peach ; Princess Beatrice, rosy-Ulac ; Rev. J. B. Camm, a full fiery-rose, having close, revolute petals, well worth growing for its odonr alone. In the same group were good blooms of Edonard Morren, peach ; Dr. Andry, crimson, with smooth petals; Ferdinand de Lesseps, crimson; Hippolyte Jamin, peach ; Mrs. C. Wood, fiery-crimson ; Madame Lacharrae, white ; Centifolia rosea, Marie Baumonn, Abel Grand, Francois Michelon, and others. Messrs. Cranston and Mayo, Messrs. Mitchell and Sons, Mr. George Prince, Mr. Keynes, and others, exhibited in this class. In exhibitions of forty-eightvarieties, three ti-usses of each, tho competition was closer; but again Mr. Cant was first, and Messrs. Pad & Son and Mr. C. Turner second and third, tho varieties being, with few exceptions, the same as those just named. In class three (21 varieties, three trusses of each), the prizes were awarded to the same exhibitors, but in this instance Mr. Turner was second, and Messrs. Paul & Sou thii-d. In the amateurs' classes some good stands were con- tributed by Mr. Rushmore, Tenaring Hall, Colchester ; Mr. NicoU, Drinkstone Park ; and others. Messrs. Paul & Son furnished a beautiful group of pot Roses, each of which bore from five to twelve blooms, tho plants themselves being little over 1 ft. in height. Among tho varieties we remarked Princess Beatrice, peach ; Maurice Bernardin, orimson • Duchess of Edinburgh, rose; Madllo. Marie Finger, a delicate rosy variety, with smooth, shell-like petals ; La France, Madame Lacbarme, Fisher Holmes, Marie Rady, and tho rosy-lilac variety named Madame Nachary. Excellent stands of single kinds, twelve blooms of each, wore shown, the varieties being Captain Christy, a pale rosy variety, flushed in tho centre with a deeper tint ; Marguerite de St. Amand, a smooth- pctalled variety of a pure rosy-lilac hue ; Annie Laxton, as shown by tho raiser, Mr. T. Laxton of Stamford, was awarded an extra prize ; and, close beside it, Mr. Curtis, of Chatteris, had a superb stand of the fiery-crimson Mario Baumann, in its way one of the best of all Roses. We also noted very good stands of the crimson-purple Duke of Edinburgh and Etienne Levet ; while Mr. liushmorc's' stand of the white Madame Lacharnio was as chnstc and perfect as the most fastidious could desire. JuLT 8, 1876.] THE GARDEil. 47 Tea-seented and Woisette varieties. — Earely, if ever, have we seen Tea Roses shown, as a whole, in such good condition as they were on this occasion, although in the case of some individual varieties there was a falling off in quality. For example, there were no blooms of the ivory-petaled Niphetos in any way eqaal to those which were shown at the corresponding exhibition last year, and nearly all the flowei-s of Marechal Niel looked flaccid and colourless compared with what we have seen staged here. In the special class for Tea-scented varieties Messrs. Paul & Son were first, second and third prizes being awarded to Messrs. Veitch, of Exeter, and Messrs. Davison & Co., of Hereford, who had also very good stands. Among the varieties which struck us as being both beautiful and distinct, we noted Homere, a well-formed, creamy variety, the tips of whose petals are suffused with lilac-purple ; Niphetos, which, when well grown, is one of the finest of all white Teas ; and Devoniensis, creamy-white, flushed with rose in the centre. Conspicuous among the paler varieties were Gheshunt Hybrid, deep rosy-carmine, inclining to pnrple; and Duchess of Edinburgh, another dark variety, well worth a place among the more faintly-tinted kinds. Marie Van Houtte, sulphur edged with rose, and the flesh-tinted shell-like Souvenir d'un Ami were likewise conspicuous in general stands ; as were also Bougere, flesh ; Perle des Jardins, sulphur; Souvenir d'Elise, white edged with rose; and Madame Margottin, another delicate variety of a creamy-white colour, having a fall, sulphur centre. A lovely, flesh -tinted vai-iety, called Bubene, was well shown in several stands, and well deserves a place wherever Tea Roses are appreciated. Dinner Table Decorations and Bouquets. — These were well represented, and among them were several tasteful arrangements. In the open class Mrs. W. Scale was first with a light and gracefully-decorated table, the principal flowers used in this ease being White Roses, Vallota, and crimson Dipladenias, white Water Lilies, and coral-coloured Begonias. Mrs. Burley, of Brentwood, was first in the ladies' class ; her arrange- ment consisted of a central Palm (Cocos Weddelliana) and two trumpet- shaped vases, one at either end of the table. These were tastefully filled with white and rosy Rhodanthe, wUd Grasses, long strips of Pampas Grass, and pieces of Saxifraga sarmentosa, the base consisting of fresh, green. Maiden-hair Fern, enlivened with Water Lilies, flowers of Gladioli, white and blue Corn-flowers, and a few choice Orchid blooms. The base of the central Palm was fringed with Ferns, on which lay white Water Lilies, crimson Cereus, white Pancratium, and pink Gladiolus flowers. One of the softest and most perfect pieces of colouring in the whole exhibition was Mrs. Seale's table, to which a second prize was awarded ; it consisted of three trumpet-shaped vases, and little glass baskets filled with living Sphagnum Moas, and water in which small Ivy leaves and bright blue Forget-me-nots hada charming appearance. The central vase was furnished with Feather Grass, blue Larkspur, and a spray or two of mauve- coloured Bougainvillea, while the base consisted of deUcate wUd Grasses, blue Larkspur (, Water Lilies, pink Pelargoniums, and Roses, tastefully fringed with Adiantum, Selaginella, and other verdant foliage. The end vases were filled with Maiden-hair Fern and Selaginella, the latter hanging over the rim, and a few pink and white Rhododendron flowers, and a brown Everlasting or two were added with excellent effect. The sprigs of Maiden- hair Fern and leaves of Herb Robert in the little cornucopiie were lovely; and, taken altogether, the soft hues of rose, blue, brown, pink, and sulphur-yellow blended, as they were on this table, with the tender green hue of young Ferns, constituted a most successful arrangement. Mr. W. Soder obtained the prize awarded for a vase of Roses, and Mr. Hepburn took the first prize for button-hole bouquets with a pretty combination of Maiden-hair Fern, white Bouvardia, white Tea Rose, and a sprig of Hoya carnosa. Mr. Hepburn also obtained an extra award for a group of floral wreaths for the hair, button-holes, &c., formed of Maiden-hair Fern, Orchids, scarlet and white Bouvardias, Forget-me- Nots, and Tea Roses of different colours. These were staged on black velvet, the effect of which was too sombre ; crimson velvet would have been better for such a purpose. Mrs. L. M. Chater, of 40, Denmark Hill, furnished the best wedding bouquets, in which we remarked double Tuberoses, Gardenias, Tea Rose-buds, white Bouvardia, Rhynohospermum jasminioides, and small flowers of the Snowy Lady's Slipper (Cypripedium niveum). Mr. C. Hepburn obtained the premier award offered for an opera bouquet, bnt it was ill-shaped and heavy-looking. Miscellaneous Subjects. — A new Fuchsia, named Laing's Hy- brid, was exhibited by Mr. J. Laing, of the Stanstead Park Nursery, Forest Hill, who also showed examples of the old striped York and Lan- caster Rose, and the little Pompon variety called Rose de Meaux, which is one of the prettiest of all Koses for bouquets or button-holes, its deli- cately tinted flowers being little larger than a shilling, and supported by dense Sweet Brier-like foliage. Mr. R. Parker, of Tooting, showed a splendid collection of rosy-flowered Pyrethrums, Delphiniums of all shades of blue, and cut flowers of English and Spanish Irises, together with Pinks, Funkias, Corn-flower, and specimens of the glaucous-leaved golden-flowered Tropasolum polyphyllum. The same exhibitor had also several showy stands of cut Peony flowers, the colours being white, lemon- yellow, pink, rose, and crimson. A group of Clematises came from Mr. Maurice Young, the principal varieties in which were C. rubro-violacea, maroon; C. Jackmaui, purple; C. rubella, reddish -purple j and one or two forms of C. lanuginosa. Lucas Strawberry.— This fine early kind haa the habit and character of Keen's Seedling. It bears abundantly, and tlie fruit is large and of the true Keen's type. It is rich in colour and first-rate in flavour. Mr. Barron, of Ohis- wick, conaidera it to be one of the finest of all Strawberries, — D. ROYAL AQUAHIUM ROSE SHOW. July 5 and 6 BosFS were well represented at this exhibition, the blooms sent for com- petition in the leading classes being especially good in quality. Messrs. Cant, Paul, and Turner contributed excellent collections in the nursery- men's classes, and Mr. B. N. G. Baker and Mr. NicoU, of Drinkstone Park Gardens, had fine blooms in the classes devoted to _ the exhibits of amateurs. Tasteful dinner-table decorations were furnished by Mr. C. Burley, Mr. Cypher, Messrs. Dick Radclyffe, and others ; but the size of the tables was much too small for fourteen persons, as stated in the schedule ; hence most of the arrangements had a crowded appearance. Well-grown specimen Fuchsias came from Mr. Weston, gardener to J. Martinean, Esq., Clapham Common ; and Mr. E. Morse sent a charming stand of cut flowers. New Roses. — In the class for twelve new Roses of 1874, 1875, and 1876, Mr. Charles Turner was flrst with Perle des Jardins, sulphur ; Rev. J. B. Camm, full rose ; J. S. Mill, rosy-crimson ; Comtesse de Serenyi, blush; Mrs. Baker, purplish -carmine ; Royal Standard, rosy blush, 'E very full Rose ; Oxonian, carmine ; William Gater, crimson ; Sir Garnet Wolseley, crimson-scarlet ; Miss Hassard, blush ; Antoine Mouton, purple-lilac ; and ViUaret de Joyeuse, carmine. Messrs. Paul & Son were second in this class. For six trusses of any new Rose of 1874, 1875, and 1876, Mr. Cant was first with Prince Arthur, a fuU-petaled crimson variety ; Mr. Turner was second with six fine blooms of Miss Hassard, a f ull-petaled rosy blush ; and Messrs. Paul & Son were third with Emily Laxton, a good full rose. A new pink variety, named iEgeria, came from Mr. Bennett, of Stapleford ; it is similar in form to Peach Blossom, but brighter in colour. In the class for seventy-two Roses, single trusses, Mr. Cant, of Colchester, was first with fresh and lovely blooms among which we noted Miss Hassard, blush, in the way of Peach Blossom ; Louis Van Houtte, fine velvety-crimson ; Baroness Rothschild, blush ; Niphetos, a creamy-white Tea ; La France, Princess Beatrice, and others equally good. Messrs. Cranston and Mayo were second with good blooms but somewhat deficient in size. Messrs. Paul & Son were third with a very creditable group, in which we noted good blooms of Marie Finger, lilac, with a rosy-salmon centre ; Madame 'Therese Levet, very fine blush ; Catherine Mermet, a creamy. Tea-scented variety, tinted with rose; and splendid flowers of Louis Van Houtte and of Marchioness of Exeter, one of the best of this year's seedlings. All the blooms shown in this class were above the average in quality, and among others especially noticeable were Annie Laxton, a full, rosy-lilac variety; Horace Vernet, fiery- crimson ; Caroline de Sansal ; Madame Vidot, stUl one of the best of its class ; and Edouard Morren, a globular, bright rosy variety. In the class for forty-eight varieties, three trusses each, Messrs. Paul & Son were iirst with very fine blooms, among which the following were conspicuous, viz. : — Marie Baumann, crimson ; Marguerite de Gibot, bright rose ; Mrs. Charles Wood, fiery crimson; Annie Laxton, soft rose-lilac; Duke of Wellington, velvety-crimson ; Marie Finger, rosy-lilac, with rosy-salmou centre, and others. Mr. John Keynes, of Salisbury, was second, with small but fresh and shapely flowers. Among them we remarked Madame Eugene Verdier, blush ; Marquise de Castellane, globular, bright rosy- lilac ; Caroline de Sansal, a full, globular, old, blush-white variety; Etienne Levet, a finely-shaped, rosy-purple kind ; Nardy Freres, a cup- shaped purple kind, very distinct, and as here shown, nearly perfect in form ; Frangois Michelon, bright rose ; Catherine Mermet, creamy-blush ; Elie Morel, rosy-lilao ; Devoniensis, and others were also well represented. Mr. Chas. Turner was third, and Mr. Caut, of Salisbury, fourth. _ In the last-named groups we noted excellent blooms of Dupuy Jamln, with smooth rose-purple petals ; Captain Christy, Louis Van Houtte, Ville de Lyon, bright lilac-purple ; Duke of Edinburgh, crimson ; Madame Bravy ; and good blooms of Madame Lacharme. In the class for twenty-four Roses, three trusses of each, Mr. Turner was first, with fresh and shapely blooms, Messrs. Paul & Son second, and Mr. J. Keynes third. Con- spicuous among the varieties in this class were Charles Lefebvre, purple- crimson ; Countess of Oxford, lilac -purple ; Fisher Holmes, dark crimson ; Maurice Bernardin, crimson-scarlet ; Marie Baumann, Baroness Rothschild, Mrs. Charles Wood, Madame Vidot, Madame Lacharme, and Le Havre, the last a full crimson-purple Rose of exquisite form. In the class for twenty-four varieties Mr. Turner was first, with a fine group, consisting of good blooms of La3lia, pearly.lilac ; La France, PranQois Michelon, Duchess of Edinburgh, and others ; Mr. B. Cant was second, and Mr. Keynes third. Messrs. Cranston & Mayo also showed a good group in this class. Mr. B. Cant was first in the class for twelve blooms, Mr. Cooling second, and Mr. R. N. G. Baker third. In the amateurs' class for forty-eight varieties, Mr. Baker, of Heavi- tree, near Exeter, was first, with fresh-looking, well-shaped blooms, among which we noticed Baroness Rothschild, La France, Pierre Netting, Madame Bravy, Duchess of Edinburgh, Camille Bernardin, Dr. Audry, and others, all in good condition. Mr. NicoU, of Drinkstone Park, was second, with a very even lot of blooms ; and Mr. J. HolUngsworth, of Maidstone, third. In the classes for single stands (twelve blooms) of different varieties, Messrs. Paul & Son were first, with Alfred Colomb, in exceUent condition. Mr. Cant had the best stand of Duke of Edinburgh ; Baroness de Rothschild was represented by ten stands. The best stand, however, was that shown by Mr. Baker, of Heavitree, who had remark- ably frssh, large, and lovely blooms. Five stands of La France were contributed, the best being that furnished by Mr. C. Burley, of Brent- wood. Mr. Cant had the best examples of Marechal Niel, and remarkably beautiful blooms of Devoniensis, some of those that were f uUy expanded measuring 5 in. in diameter, but these were not so pretty as the half- opened buds. 48 THE GARDEN. [July 8, 1876. Tea Roses. — These were well represented, the Kev. J. B. Camm being first in the amatonre' class, and Messrs. Mitchell and Sons, of Pilt- down, in tbat of the nurserymen's. Excellent stands also came from Messrs. Paul and Son, Mr J. Keynes, and others. Among the varieties we noted Cheshuut Uybrid, crimson-purple; Niphetos, a large, smooth- petaled, creamy- white kind ; Devoniensis, very fine in several stands ; Madame Sortot, white with a blush centre ; Letty Coles,_ lilac, with a deep rosy centre ; Madame Hippolyte Jamin, creamy-buff in the centre ; Comtesse de Nadaillac, buff, and exquisite in shape ; Souvenir d'Elise, creamy -white with a rosy centre ; Eliza Savage, creamy-sulphur; Homfere, white tipped with lilac-purple ; La Boule d'Or, sulphur yellow ; Ruhens, creamy-blush, and others. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. July 5. This was but a small meeting, a fact which may be attributed to exhi- bitions being held elsewhere on the same day. Among subjects of more than usual interest may be mentioned two splendid specimens of the bright, rosy-flowered Spiraea palmata, from the gardens of Mr. Crowley, Waddon House, Croydon ; Messrs. Veitoh & Son, too, sent a new form of Lfelia, something in the way of L. grandis, and a large, drooping, crimson- flowered Gloxinia, named Duchess of Teck. Mr. R. Veitch, of Exeter, furnished a well-grown panful of the fruiting Duckweed (Nertera depressa), in the form of a dense, cushion-like mass of coral berries. A small collection of Melons came from Lord Exeter's gardens, at Burleigh ; and a collection of about thirty varieties of Strawberries was sent from Chiswick. rirat-elass Certificates.— These were awarded to the following new flowers; — Double White Zonal Pelargonium, Mrs. Trevor Clarke (Laxton). — A variety of considerable merit, its growth being robust and compact, and its pure white flowers being borne in close, well-elevated trusses. Large-flowered Pelargonium, Lord of the Isles (Laxton). A weU-shaped flower, of a bright rosy colour, the upper petals being of a rich velvety-black. Pelargonium, Sappho (Foster).— A bright rosy-lilac variety, having a black spot on the upper petals and a clear white eye. For pur- poses of decoration, it is a plant which well deserves attention. Pelargonium, Foley (Poster). — A rich velvety-crimson kind, veined with black. Miscellaneous Plants.— Messrs. Veitch & Sons contributed plants of Ismene Amanciies, a large yellow Amaryllid from South America, long introduced to our gardens, but now rarely cultivated; Osmunda palustris, a pale green and very beautiful form, well worth a place where Perns are grown ; a Ltelia, in the way of L. grandis, having small, greenish-yellow, white-lipped flowers ; Gloxinia Duchess of Teck, a large crimson variety, having fresh and handsome foliage ; Niphobolus Lingua eristata, a crested form, the fronds of which have silvery under- surfaces. Cut specimens of Eryngium pumilum came from Mr. Chaides preen, of the Holmesdale Eoad Nurseries, Eeigate; in its metallic blue inflorescence this plant resembles the old E. amethystinum, but the_ leaves are different from those of that species. Mr. E. Veitch, of Exeter, showed a splendid mass of Nertera depressa 15 in. in diameter, covered with bright orange fruit. Mr. C. Turner furnished a well-gi-own example of Lobelia elegantissima, a dwarf, robust- habited plant, having large, dense blue flowers ^vith a conspicuous white eye. Mr. Strathan, gardener to P. Crowley, Esq., contributed two large plants of Spiraea palmata, about 4 ft. in height and fully as much in dia- meter. Seedling Pansies came from Messrs. Jas. Cocker & Sons, of Aberdeen ; and Messrs. Bell & Son, of Norwich, sent a new seedling Rose named Mrs. Opie. A new crimson Rose, named Black Diamond, came from Mr. Chas. Turner, and Mr. Thos. Laxton, of Stamford, showed seven now seedling Roses in excellent condition. Among these Captain Webb is a vivid purplish-crimson ; Chas. Darwin, crimson-scarlet ; Lady Isabel Cecil, straw colour; Dr. Hogg, purple; and Earl Warren, a fuU rosy-purple variety. Fruit. — A collection, consisting of thirty-five varieties of Strawberries, came from the Society's gardens at Chiswick, and out of this number tho following were selected as tho best, viz. : — Princess Dagmar, Sir ,1. Fal- stafl'. Pair Lady, Alpha, Beauty of England, Princo Alfred, and Herioart de Thury. Mr. Gilbert exhibited a handsome dish of Jackson's Tomato — a largo and even fruit. A well-grown Shaddock came from Mr. J. Strathan, gardener to P. Crowley, Esq , Waddon House, Croydon ; and several fine Melons came from Mr. Gilbert, of Burghley. Dr. Hogg showed well-kept specimens of Blenheim Pippin Apple. Eoyal Botanic Gardena.— On Wednesday evening, the 5th inst., tho evening fete of the Royal Botanic Society was held at the Gardens in Regent's Park. All tho entrances were illuminated, and opal globes lighted with gas lined the main walk. Tho covered walk which runs round the Gardens was hung with little oil lamps of many colours, with shades above them to guard against the accidents of climate. The rain, however, though it threatened all the evening, held off, with the exception of a few drops, and tho Gardens wore thronged by many visitors. Ground-glass globes, hanging from tho trees separately or in festoons, shone here and there among the flower-bede, and afloat among the Water Lilies of the laJce. The bridge was decorated with little lamps, and Chinese lanterns were hung about the refreshment tents. A very sickly smell was diffused throughout the Gardens in the immediate neighbour- hood of these lamps. .A.t ten o'clock these decorations paled before the coloured fires which were burnt upon the banks of the lake and else- where, their rays divided into fan-like shapes by the branches of the treea among which they were displayed. The electric light was shown from a tower erected for the time upon the mound to the east of the main walk. Prizes had been offered by the Society for floral table decorations, and the collections sent in were exhibited in the fruit tent, the large marquee, and in a special marquee on the lawn. At ten minutes past eleven the Duke and Duchess of Teck arrived with a distinguished party at the entrance in the north corridor, and proceeded to the front terrace, which had been reserved for them. They were welcomed with the National An- them and a fresh display of coloured fires. GARDENERS' ROYAL BENEVOLENT INSTITUTION. The anniversary dinner of the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Inktitution was held at the Albion Tavern, Aldersgate Street, on the evening of Friday, June 30. The chair was occupied by Dr. Hogg, Secretary of the Royal Horticultural Society, who was supported by Lord Alfred S. Churchill, Rev. C. P. Peach, Mr. Robert Wrench, the Treasurer, Mr. Frank Fuller, Mr. Richard Smith. Mr. T. F. Rivers, Mr. J. Bolton, Mr. G. F. Wilson, F.R.S., Dr. Masters, F.R.S., Professor Bentley, Mr. Mamock, Mr. William Paul, Mr. E. J. Beale, Mr. Charles Lee, and among the rest of the company were the Rev. Canon Hole, Mr. T. Moore, Mr. B. S. Williams, Mr. Charies Turner, Mr. 'iVeeks, Mr. Deal, Mr. James Gray, Mr. Meston, Mr. H. J. Adams, Mr. A. C. Wheeler, and a large gathering of horticulturists to the number of 100 or more. The room was richly decorated, Mr. B. S. Williams, Messrs. J. and 0. Lee, Messrs. Veitch and Sons, and Mr. Charles Turner having contributed many specimen plants of Palms, Cyeads, Tree Ferns, Dracronas, Cala- diums, and other fine-foliaged plants, interspersed with other plants in bloom. The tables, too, were furnished with the ample resources of the establishment, which were greatly helped by several elaborate plateaux and groups of fruit and flowers presented for the occasion by Mr. Dickson and Mr. Buck, tho Covent Garden florists. The Chaii'man, in introducing the toast of the evening, "Prosperity to the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution," said : — In proposing this toast I have to introduce to your notice the claims and merits of an Insti- tution which is not one of those whose history has long been associated with that of this ancient city. Its origin is of more recent date, and does not extend beyond the time of living memory. It was on January 17th, 1839, that a few earnest men, of whom few are now alive, met at the Crown and Anchor Tavern, in the Strand, to inaugurate a Gardeners' Benevolent Society. Mr. Buchanan, of Camberwell, was in the chair, and they resolved to carry out the object they had in view. On the 29th of the same month a second meeting was held at Wright's Hotel, in the Strand, the Duke of Cambridge having become President. The only members of the original Committee now living aro Mr. Chandler, for- merly of Vauxhall ; Mr. W. Gregoi'y, formerly of Cirencester ; Mr. Lane, of Berkhamsted ; Mr. Marnock, a name honoured in horticulture, and whom we have tho pleasure of seeing with us this evening (great cheering) ; and Mr. Protheroe, of Leytonstone ; so that out of the twenty-four members of the original Committee there are only five who are now alive. The progress of the Institution was slow at first. Dissensions crept in, and charges of mismanagement were made against the Secretary, who was replaced in the year 1843 by Mr. Cutler, who has remained Secretary ever since, and under whose good man.agement, coupled with tbat of the Committee, the Insti- tution has arrived at its present state of usefulness. With your permission I will take a retrospect of the working of the Institu- tion by way of reviewing our progress, to see what condition we were in in 1842 and compare it with the present. It is well that we should do this occasionally, that we may know whether we are advancing or retrograding. In 18 12 we started with a balance in hand of ;G10G Os. lOd., and our income from all sources was .^2042, of which :tlS7 12s. was from subscriptions. We had then £400 invested in con- sols, and that year £200 more was added ; and as the report states, "these gratifying prospects induce them to recommend that two pen- sioners be elected according to the rules of the Institution." Let us now turn to our present balance-sheet of 1876. We start this year with a balance in hand of £441 9s. 8d., and our income from all sources iB £1034 2s. 3d., of which £093 is from subscriptions. Wo have £10,750 invested in 3 per cent, consols, a balance at tho bunkers' and in hand of £430 123., and seventy-four aged pensioners on our list, who are receiving sums of £10 and £12 a year. Now we have doubtless made groat progress since 1842, but has it been as great as it ought to have been ? I think not; and my reason for saying so is that when I look at the printed list of subscribers there aro numerous names of employers and employed which arise in my miiid whom I do not find there, and who ought to bo there. It is to tho employers that we niust chiefly look to aid tho Institution on behalf of the gardener, and I trust that some schcmo will be devised of reaching them more effectually than we have hitherto done. But there are many gardeners who can contribute also, and who do not. I have heard some even rail against the Institution, while others scoffed at it ; but we have seen some of those who when in their prosperity were loudest in their attivcks upon it come, both they and their widows, to be recipients of its charity, and thereby have coals of fire heaped on their heads; July 15, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 49 ISATTTRDAX, JXTLT 15, 1876, " This is an art Which, does mend Nature ; change it rather : but Thh Akt itself is Natttbb."- A DAT AMONGST THE EOSBS AT COLCHBSTBE. If one wishes to see, and who does not, English-grown Roses at their best, perhaps he cannot do better than visit the grounds just now of Mr. Cant at Colchester. He is the champion exhibitor this season, having carried all before him, with the exception of the large class (72), at Alexandra Palace. Being an ardent lover of Roses, I determined to go to Col- chester to unearth, if possible, the secret of Mr. Cant's success. It can hardly be in the soil ; that is a poor, rather light, and hungry loam. Yes ; but what of its enrichment by means both of liquid and solid manure ? Well, this : that the ground to which most manure was given produced the worst Roses ■ — worst, however, has a limited meaning at Colchester, as it would have been difficult to find a stand of bad Roses on the place at the time of my visit, on the 10th inst. But the grandest quarter of Roses on the Manetti I have ever seen followed Pear trees, and had no manure given it whatever. Nor could the site be said to have had much to do with so fine a display, for the Rosery lies on the side of a hill, hot, dry, and rather fully exposed to the wind. Nor is the treatment un- usual, for seldom are the Roses even watered ; and although I saw some canvas caps, almost the form of policemen's hat.s, and round zinc crowns, there was not one in use at the time of my visit. Mr. Cant says they ruin the colour of Roses. Such caps are only used to protect the flowers in wet weather. Nor was any surface-mulching — a great point with many growers — visible. Cover the surface with 6 in. of juicy farm- yard manure, so that no lady can get near her Roses with comfort, and it is thought they may be out as large as Cab- bages. The ground was all bare at Colchester, somewhat loose on the surface, and free from weeds. How, then, it may be asked, has Mr. Cant achieved such great success ? There are two causes pretty obvious on the surface after a visit to Colchester. These may be epitomised as skill and numbers. Mr. Cant's skill, fired by enthusiasm, runs through the whole matter, from the beginning to the end of Rose growing and showing. He lays the foundation of his success in vigorous Briers from seeds, cuttings, and hedgerows. His Standard Briers were the finest I have seen for years. His Manetti Stocks, on which he works most of his grafts, were of that medium, healthy growth, that neither starves the Roses budded thereon, nor feeds them to excess. As a result of the care in his selection and rearing of Stocks, the Roses make the most perfect and satisfactory growth. It is impossible to form an idea of their health and strength without going to see them. Many of the weaker growers seem to rival the strongest in wood and fine spread of foliage. Even the Baroness Rothschild on the Manetti forgets her stunted habit, and runs up to a fair length before she develops her glorious crown of beauty. Good wood ensures good bloom — a fact which is fully confirmed at Col- chester. Much skill is also displayed in the selection and arrangement of the proper flowers for showing, many of which must be cut almost to the hour. Some, if cut too young, will wither up instead of opening ; others, if cut too late, invariably open their eyes to have a peep at the judges. There is, in fact, a tide in the life of each flower, which taken at the flood leads to first honours. Fewmen, perhaps, have a more thorough knowledge of this than Mr. Cant, but notwithstanding all this, numbers have alsomuch to do with success. Numbersarein Rose growing and showingas muchor more than in most matters. At Colchester also, the finest Roses are arranged in masses. There are whole rows of such grand show Roses as Marie Baumann, Madame Yictor Yerdier, Duke of Edinburgh, Mrs. Charles Wood, Fisher Holmes, Charles Lefebvre, Duke of Wellington, Baroness Rothschild, Alfred Colomb, and, in fact, all the finest Roses in cultivation. Neither are the masses all confined to one place or to one style. There are masses on the hills and masses in the valleys; masses on the walls, masses on the Manetti, seedling Brier, cuttings, and on tall and dwarf standards ; so that if any Rose be out of form or character in one place, it is almost sure to be at its best in another, and then it is comparatively easy to cut the proper number of perfect fiowers from a mass of 500 or 1000 plants. Those, in fact, who grow all the finest Roses in masses, and have skill to select the finest fiowers, will be sure to win. But in this all Nurserymen who enter largely into Rose growing are on an equality — some of them, perhaps, even in advance of Mr. Cant. Therefore, after all, the secret of his success lies in his skill. Of fine Roses we particularly noted the following, in addition to those we have already named, viz. : — Countess of Oxford, Dr. Andry, a fine old Rose rising in popularity ; Duke of Welling- ton, Duchesse de Caylus, almost equal to the Duke of Edin- burgh ; Dupuy Jamin, Elie Morel, Ferdinand de Lesseps, Francois Louvat, Francois Michelon, Hippolyte Jamin, Jean Lambert, Horace Yernet, La France, La Duchesse de Morny, Le Havre, Louis Yan Houtte, Madame Orapelet, Madame Yictor Yerdier, Madame Marie Finger, Marguerite de St. Amand, Marie Rady, Marquise de Castellane, Maurice Ber- nardin. Miss Hassard, Monsieur Etienne Levet, Monsieur Noman, Madame Lacharme, Prince Arthur, Prince de Porcia, Prince Camille de Rohan, Princess Mary of Cambridge, Princess Beatrice, Reynolds Hole, Yictor Yerdier, and Xavier Olibo. Among Teas, Devoniensis stood out supreme, as did also Madame Jules Margottin, Madame Villermoz, Marie Yan Houtte, Niphetos, Rubens, Souvenir d'un Ami, and that grandest of all yellow Tea Roses, though often classed with Noisettes, Marechal Niel. The latter is grown in considerable numbers, as standards, in a sheltered place with Devoniensis and Niphetos. Whosoever wishes to see good Roses in their prime should hasten to Colchester at once ; for though still fresh and beautiful, of course the end of the show season and the advance of the year must soon sadly impair the beauty of one of the grandest Rose shows in England now held in the nurseries of Mr. Cant at Colchester. D. T. F. DYNAMITE AND TREES. Some experiments made in reference to this matter appear to have been successful on the Duke of Hamilton's estate (see The GiiiDEN,vol. x., p. 9). The power of dynamite was tested about two years ago in Longleat Park. The first subject experimented on was a very large Beech that had been grubbed out. The agent for dynamite in this district asserted that he could cut ofl! the limbs, and even the butt end of the tree, by means of fastening an India-rubber tube round them, filled with dynamite ; after, however, several explosions had taken place, it was found that only the bark had been blown oS, and only one instance occurred in which a slight indentation had been made in the wood. A number of cartridges were then applied to the butt end, but to little purpose, for it was soon evident that it was only a waste of time and material to experiment further on Beech trees. Nor was the agent in question more successful with some stumps and roots of trees on which he tried experiments. The stumps were fractured and spht across, it is true, but in no instance were they blown out or moved from their places. A large number of spectators were obliged to return home disappointed with the day's experiment at Long- leat ; but the agent was not daunted, and asked me to appoint another day for a further trial. This was done, but I can only say that the results were not more successful than on the first occasion. I have no doubt that dynamite is a valuable and powerful blasting agent in mines or quarries, but for taking down trees, or blowing up stumps, I have no faith in its ever coming into general use. G. B. lucas Strawberry.— This variety is, I beUeve, of Belgian origin ; I find it to be an excellent bearer in the strong soil of the kitchen garden here, and its flavour is first-rate. In my opinion no cultivator of Strawberries should be without it; and, with President, British Queen, and Dr. Hogg added, the selection could not be excelled. For an early variety H^ricart de Thury haS this year been the most productive and ot excellent flavour, and Rivers' Eliza has been another great bearer, and, although of a paler colour than some others, excellent for preserving. For a deep red solid kind for preserving there is none beats the Grovend or Old Scarlet, and they likewise ripen early. — W. TntBET, Welbeck. 50 THE GARDEN. [July 15, 1876. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Leptosiphox hoseus. — This charming little Califomiaa annual is now in great beauty ; some lines of it in the Royal Horticultural Society's garden at Chiswick are among the most beautiful things we have seen this season, the flowers — delicate rose — being densely produced on plants about two inches high. These plants have been raised from spring. sown seed. Wasted Fiair. — As was the case with the Plums last autumn, the second-sized and smaller Strawberries are now rotting on the ground in various districts round London, though the poorer classes in the remoter districts would probably pay a price for them that would make it worth while to gather the fruit and send it to town. There would seem to be great changes required in our marketing system. Pansies : Blue Bonnet and Sunnypaek Rival. — These exquisite Pansies, dark purple-ultramarine, with gold centres and pure black markings, seem to surpass in the richness and depth of their hues the fairest flowerg of the Alps. We are indebted for specimens of them to Messrs. Jas. Cocker & Sons, of Aberdeen. Of the two, Blue Bonnet is the most intense in colour. LiLiuM GIGANTEUM.— Mr. David Uphill writes to say that a fine specimen of this Lily is now in bloom at Moreton, Dorchester. It has three flower-stems, one being 9 ft. 7 in. in height, the others each U ft. 2 in., the whole bearing thirty strikingly handsome blossoms, twenty-nine of which are now open. A NEW Tea Rose.— Messrs. Bell & Sons, of Norwich, have sent us blooms of a new free-flowering Tea Rose, named Mrs. Opie, which, judging from its flowers in a cut state, seems well worth a place as a wall or pillar Rose. Its colour is delicate, magenta-lilac, flashed in the centre with rosy-salmon, and the petals are smooth and shell- like. It is to be sent out in the autumn along with the new climbing Rose Catherine Bell. Old Lilies. — The recent influx of new and handsome Lilies to our gardens reminds us that there is nothing among them fairer than the old white L,ily (Liliiim candidnm), a plant frequently neglected or unseen in " show places," and, at present, happiest in cottage gardens. It well deserves to be well grown and well placed. As in many other cases, a well.grown tufc or group happily placed will tell better than an army of specimens situated at regular intervals along borders or shrubberies. Balking Floweks.— We received the other day, by the same post, two boxes of flowers packed so differently that the result may be worth noting. One was a tin box containing Pansies, from Messrs. Cocker, of Aberdeen. Their stems were inserted in wet cotton wool ; beyond that they had no packing but Ivy leaves, and yet. notwithstanding their long journey, they arrived in as fresh a condition as if they had jast been cut from the plants. The other box contained a single spike of double Sweet William from Bradford, wrapped in dry wadding, and placed in a cardboard box, which reached us smashed, and the flower so shrivelled as to be scarcely recognisable, the dry wadding having completely robbed it of its moisture. Of all materials used for packing flowers, dry cotton wool is the worst. HvMiiOLDT's Lii.y.— Mr. W. Bull sends us four handsome forms of this fine Californian species, differing mainly in the size and number of their spots, but also in the relativo sizes of the flowers. He gives them all Latin names, but already so much confusion exists in the genus, that naming slightly-varying forms is likely to tend to more confusion still, and is, therefore, a practice to be discouraged. L. Humboldti varies infinitely in its native country, and, therefore, to give each of the forms a distinct name is undesirable. If it be thought e.xpedient to do so however, English, and not Latin, names should be need for the varieties. The Poiato Beetle.— Tho Potato bug has again made its appearance in America. Paris green, a deadly poison, is much used to destroy it. Mixed with plaster or fine earth, it may be dusted on the plants, or it may be stirred up in water and sprinkled from a watering-pot. Great caro should be taken not to breathe tho dust, nor handle with bare hands. Hand-jiickiug is one of the surest reme- dies. The eggs are found on the under surface of the loaves. The grub is orange-red in colour, and lives about ten days on tho leaves and atoms, after which it enters tho ground to pass its transition state. The beetle itself is half an inch long, has ten black stripes on the back, and ia reddish underneath. Almeria Gkapes in Cork Dust.— Wo have lately seen Almeria Grapes in good condition in Mr. Gulliford's shop in Covent Garden that had been nine months in bis cellar preserved in barrels of Cork dust. THE FLOWtR GARDEN. HAKDY FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. The rose-coloured Canterbury Bell has been so beautiful of late and, in the case of well-grown plants, so stately, that we fancy even those who have little to do with such inexpensive materials as biennials would find it worth then- attention. This variety of our well-known old friend is as great a gain to our gardens as any annual that has been introduced for years. The Alstrosmerias, when under favourable conditions, furnish some of the finest effects of the garden now, their orange and coral tints being so distinct. They grow quite freely when established awhile in good soils, and we have noticed them freely naturalised on a mound of rich earth, where they held their own among shrubs. In nurseries one seldom sees the lovely Delphiniums fully developed, as they are transplanted so often. In Mr. Bohu's garden at Twickenham they stand up like grenadiers among the Evergreen shrubs, and have a fine efleot. The old Catananche ccerulea and its white form are still seen here and there, but they are not very popular in the face of the many brilhant perennials now obtainable. Among Lilies the noble L. Browni has been in flower for some time. Most remarkable among recent gains are the Irises of the Ktempferi section, which bring quite a new order of beauty into a family already rich in charms. The continuous bloom of Tropajolum polyphyllum. is one of its merits. The shoots seem never to exhaust their blossoms. It is a true trailer, rambling freely and throwing up its flowers as if that were more welcome to it than any moda of training. Other trailers, however, would, if allowed liberty in this way, look much happier than if trained. Among the smaller plants the delicate-looking, but large blossomed Nierembergia rivularis is in flower. It does not seem to have become established in our gardens, or to have as yet become what is called a " good perennial ;" nevertheless, it is so distinct and beautiful that it should have a place in all exten- sive collections. The white Crinum capense album is a noble plant, which thrives admirably in the Kegent's Park, where a tuft of it stands out quite handsomely. Deep and somewhat moist soils seem to suit it well. The prolonged bloom, size and fragrance of the flowers of this plant, and its stately habit entitle us to rank it among the most precious hardy plants wo possess. The Californian Lilies may now be seen at Barr's Trial Ground. Delphiniums are remarkably well-grown in the Exotic Nursery, Tooting, and the Calochorti ai'e extremely interesting and showy at the Hale Farm Nurseries. New Clematises.. — Messrs. Cripps and Sons, of Tunbridge Wells, have sent ua drawings of some of their seedling Olematises, among which we notice the following: — G. Louis Van Houtte, a sis. to eight sepaled flower, about 5 in. in diameter, of a vivid purple colour, and of good shape. C. excelsior, a double-flowered variety, very closely resembling Countess of Lovelace (Jackman). Tho colour is a clear purple, each segment being terminated by a yellowish-green awn. One of the most brilliant and distinct of all is C. Guiding Star, a si.x.8epaled fiowcr of good form, and of a vivid maroon colour shot with amethyst. C. Madame Van Houtte is a white six-sepaled flower. C. Sylph, a creamy eight-sepaled flower, suffused with lilac; and C. Fairy Queen is similar to Madame Van Houtte, but has a pale carmine centre to the white sepals. C. Vic- toria is a rich purplish. carmine, six-sepaled flower of good substance. Judging by the plates, these varieties aro likely to become popular decorative plants, either for pot cultnra or for draping walls or rockwork. Geranium Endressi.— Tho roso-coloured Goronium for which "Oxou" c.innot Kot ii name it*, doubtlosB, G. P^ndressi ; at loa^t, that is tho only roso- colourcd Geranium answoriiiK hiji dcscriptiou which I can call to mind, but if he will send mo a bloom and a leaf, I will endeavour to verify tho maltor. I should feel obliged by a bit of G. Lamberti, which X have lost. — Taos. Williams, OnmlLirk. A GUinblng Hydrangea.— In a late visit to tho nurseries of Mr. Parsons, of Flushiug, our attention was directed to a climbing Hydrangea, called H- Hcandcns. It is a true climber, sending out tendrils. Should its iniiorescence be like that ot other Hydrangeas, it will prove a most striking plant trained over porches aud against walls. It was sent by Mr. Hogg from Japan. — "Moore's Rural." July 15, 1876.1 THE GARDEN. 51 Greater Astrantia (A. major). Tafted Hairbell (Campanula casspitosa) . Large-flowered Everlasting Pea (Lathyrus grandiflorus). Carpathian Hairbell (Campanula carpatica). Variegated-tiowered Monk's-hood ( Aconitam variegatum) . Catananche ccerulea. Canadian Lily (Liliam c Common Monk'3-hood (Aconitnnl Napellus) . Scotch Thistle (Onopordon Acanthimn) . White Stonecrop (Sednm album) . SOME HAEDT FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS.' 52 THE GARDEN. [July 15, 1876. WALL DWELLERS. TuE establishing oE Alpine flowers on old walls, ruins, &c., is one of the most interesting modes of cultivating these plants. They establish themselves wherever they get a chance ; but when man deliberately and with some slight knowledge of the subject assists them, then the old wall becomes the most beautiful and interesting of gardens. On ruins and old walls near the Alps, particularly in Italy, may be seen various Alpine flowers and mountain bushes established from seeds sown at first by winds or birds. The Colosseum, as everybody knows, was once so rich in flowers that Dr. Deakin wrote the flora of it ; but now these plants have all been cleared off, and the ruin made, in consequence, much less beautiful than when it wore its garland forest. On the colossal walls of Caracalla's Baths and many other ruins the Arbutus and the Eook Rose, tlie Laburnum and the tree Heath, the Fig and the Honej-suckle, the Olive and the Bird Cherry, the Laurustinus and the Ivy, found a home. The Acanthus, model of the column-rearer, carved its own fine leaves far above his capitals, the Maiden-hair Fern came and graced every moist and shady nook ; the Giant Fennel was there in spring, with its large graceful plume; the Clematis and the Convolvulus, the Cycla- men (two or three kinds), the Pink, the Everlasting Pea, the Poet's Narcissus, the Crocus, the Mignonette, the Rosemary, the Violet, the Bee Orchis, and a host of others, all grow there too, just as freely as the Pyreneau Erinus grows on old walls, where it has escaped from cultivation in Britain. With this fact in mind, it is easy to imagine that the number of plants that could be grown in similar positions is almost illimitable. It is not without a useful lesson, apart from that of suggesting how old walls, &c., may be embellished. The plants grow on these ruins much better than on the rock gardens so commonly made tor their accommodation. And the reason is, that the rook garden, as generally made, is so loose and open in texture that, though the soil may be very suitable, plants perish from drought. On the ruin, such moisture as occurs between the stones is prevented from rapidly escaping by the stones of the surface and the firm texture of the whole. Thus, on the ruin we find a garden, and on the so-called rook garden too often nothing but cliukered bricks or bare stones and dust. The best way of establishing plants on walls is by sowing seeds in the chinks and earthy places, the best time being early autumn or spring. Small seedling plants might also be inserted care- fully in autumn or winter. Mr. Latimer Clarke has been making experiments with Alpine flowers on the perpendicular surfaces of the walls in his garden at Sydenham, and has succeeded in establishing many kinds. In parts of the country where Perns and other plants grow freely on stone walls, good conditions exist for the growth of Alpine plants in like places. V. A FRENCHMAN ON STOCKS. The Italians were the first to cultivate Stocks, which grow wild on the shores of the Mediterranean. One of the most beautiful of the family is the Purple Cocardeau, which, as its name indicates, bears large and handsome flowers. It may be sown during the latter half of the year, so as to flower the season following. The large varieties present a peculiar anomaly in their flowering. Those which are sown from April to July do not flower in the order of their sowing, those sown in July always flowering before those sown three months earlier. Plants of the Purple Cocardeau generally give from 45 to 65 per cent, of double flowers, but by growing them according to M. Chatd's method, 70 or 80 per cent, may bo obtained according to the different varieties. The principal colours are the red, first grown at Compiegne in the beginning of the century, and introduced into Paris about 1822 ; the white, first grown in Paris in 1833 ; the violet, first grown in Paris in 1815 ; the bright carmine, first grown at Erfurt in 1854; and the bronze crimson, known as the Louise Leon, first grown by M. Senary, a seed-grower at Erfurt in 1859. The"doublo-flowering" Stock is so called, because, after the first set of flowers has passed off another set makes its appear.^nce, so that the time of flowering ia greatly extended. This property would render this variety one of the most valuable of all were it not for the great scarcity of double flowers, of which there are hardly 1 per cent. M. Chate has, however, succeeded in increasing the number of doubles 10 per cent by pinching off three-quarters of the seed-vessel instead of only one-quarter. This method especially succeeds with the carmine-red variety. The double-flowering Stock is not an advantageous kind to grow, owing to its very slight tendency to produce double flowers ; it is, however, a very hardy variety. It should be sown in April and July for flowering in the May and June of the following year; those sown in July rarely flower the second year. The colours of the different varieties are white, violet, light rose, extra bright carmine-red, bronze, and crimson-red. The Pyramidal Stock. — This valuable variety was obtained through the German seedsmen in 1850. It is an exceedingly beautiful kind, often growing to the height of over 3 ft. The branches are crowded with bloom, and four or five flowering branchlets surround the base of each spike, giving the plant a handsome port. The Pyramidal Stock is more double than the preceding variety. It generally yields 25 per cent, of double flowers, but, treated according to M. C hate's method, it may be made to yield 40 per cent. Seeds of it should be sown in April and July to flower the following year. Their colours are carmine-red, crimson, white, deep violet, light violet, pale pink, flesh colour, brick-red, bronzed nankeen, and chamois. Large Tkee Stocks. — These are the oldest of all the varie- ties of Stocks ; the branches are slender and the flowers smaller than those of the other kinds. They yield 60 per cent, of double kinds, and are obtainable in twenty-five different colours. Inter5iediate Stocks. — These are the most beautiful of all the Stocks, uniting, as they do, all the good qualities of the others. They bloom early and abundantly, keep a long time in flower, and bloom for two years in succession ; the flowers are large and their colours very brilliant. They grow easily from seed, yield double kinds in the proportion of 70 or 80 per cent., and possess many other qualities that recommend them to the attention of lovers of this race of plants. Paris Stocks. — -These were found accidentally ; they are the progenitors of the Paris Stock properly so-called and the Imperial Perpetual Stock. The latter was first obtained by the German horticulturists, and is a cross between the Paris Stock and the annual Ten-week kind. The name just given was bestowed on them by their producers, but they are also known as Large and Sraall-flowered Emperor Stocks. The flowers of the Paris Stocks are smaller than those of the Per- petual Emperors ; the leaves of the latter variety are thicker, fleshier, and more delicate than those of the Paris Stock, whose leaves are drier ; they are also apt to go mouldy during the winter. They may be sown in May and October, those which are sown early going out of flower more quickly than the others ; they are also more liable to become spotted. The best time for sowing this Stock is from the 15th of July to the 15th of September ; it should be pricked out into frames in which it is to be kept during the winter, and at the beginning of April it may be ti'ansferred to its proper positions out-of- doors. This kind ordinarily yields from 50 to 60 per cent, of double sorts, which may be increased to 75 or 80 per cent, by following M. Chate's mode of treatment. There are more than twonty-flve varieties of this kind of Stock included under the names of Paris and Perpetual Emperor. Among Emperors, the following embrace the most distinct colours : — Bright carmine, crimson, white, light brick, light blue, flesh, bronzed nankeen, pinkish-purple, dark and light violet, bronze, and chamois. Amongst the Paris Stocks the four following are the best : — Bright carmine, crimson, white, and violet. In the last-named colour will bo found fewer double sorts than in the others. Ten-week Stocks. — The Greek variety has shining green foliage, which produces an excellent effect. They should be treated the same as the Cocardeau and Perpetual varieties. They flower abundantly, and are of various colours. One of them is yellow, and is the only instance of this colour occurring among Stocks. Singularly enough, the single flowers, the seeds from which produce the yellow double variety, are always white. It is a good plan to separate the seedling plants of this variety from others that bear white flowers, for they are apt to go back to their primitive colour, which is white. The JuLT 15, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 63 following varieties will yield 50 per cent, of double kinds, or, if M. Chate's plan be followed, 80 per cent. : — White, sulphur yellow, and straw colour. There are also crimson, pink, violet, and bufE varieties, but they yield but few double kinds. A new variety, with white flowers, called the White Greek Cocardeau, has been lately introduced. This belongs to the Perpetual Emperors, and bears long spikes densely covered with white bloom, the base being surrounded by a ring of small flowers. It closely resembles the Giant Cocardeau, and holds one of the highest places amongst this beautiful tribe. It yields about the same proportion of double sorts as the first three varieties. The Greek Stocks are a little more tender than the other members of the family, and must, therefore, be carefully looked after during winter. PEKrETUAL AmUMN" AND WiNTEE TeN-WEEK StOCKS.— These were first obtained by the Erfurt seedsmen by crossing the Pyramidal variety with the Perpetual Emperor. Sown in heat in February, and pricked out into a frame, they produce large masses of bloom from October to January. Plowering as it does so late in the season, this variety may be grown in pots as ornaments for hot-houses or rooms when the scarcity of other flowers renders it a boon. It includes eight different kinds, which yield from 50 per cent, to 70 per cent, of double forms, according to the method in which it is grown. It is most important to keep the secondary shoots well pinched down, as this variety has a tendency to return to the primitive type when the seed is not fully ripened. The following are the principal varieties belonging to this class : — Carmine, white, bright carmine, chamois, brick-red, light pink, dark violet, and sky-blue. Annual Ten-week Stock. — This variety may be divided into seven different kinds, each of which gives rise to sub- varieties. They should be sown for succession from the month of February onwards. Sown in heat and pricked out under a warm frame, they may be transplanted out-of-doors as soon as they are old enough, and will bloom throughout the months of May and June. For June and July flowering they should be sown in heat in March, and pricked out into a cold frame. Sown in a cold frame in April and May, and pricked out at once into the open borders, they will flower in August. Sown in August, September, and October, like Perpetuals, and potted off for thQ winter, they will bloom in March, April, and May, so that by proper management they may be had in bloom during the better part of the year. They do not bloom successfully in the winter, the blossoms mildewing and spotting rapidly, especially if circumstances prevent the frames from being opened for several days in succession. LAKGE-rLOWERED Ten-week Stock. — This is the finest of all the Ten-week Stocks. Its flowers are very lai'ge, and closely resemble the large kinds of Cocardeau. They yield about 75 per cent, of double varieties when grown according to M. Chate's method. There are more than twenty different sorts, but the following are the most distinct in colour : — Extra crim- son (first grown by M. Penary, of Erfurt, in 1861), pearly- white, whitish-violet, carmine, extra white, Parma violet, flesh- coloured, cinnamon, light brick - dust, purplish - pink, and bronzed-yellow. Greek Ten-week Stocks. — These are largely cultivated for bouquets, especially the white sorts ; sown out-of-doors and not transplanted, they only produce one spike of bloom, which is more convenient for bouquet-making than the other kinds. By sowing for succession from February to the end of June they will flower during the best part of the year. They should not be sown after July if they are to pass the winter under glass, being extremely delicate, very liable to be killed by frost, and flowering but poorly, if even they survive the cold. The following are the seven best varieties : — Pearly- white, azure-blue, sulphur-yellow, straw-colour, crimson, violet, and buff. The four first yield from 70 to 80 per cent, of double kinds ; the others, which are not much cultivated, a smaller proportion. The Erfurt Ten-week Stocks. — These are ordinary Eng- lish Ten-week Stocks raised in Germany. Their general appearance is bushy, their comparatively short shoots being covered with compact masses of bloom. By adopting the plan of sowing for succession, already described, they may be had in bloom nearly the whole of the year. Grown according to M. Chat(l's method they yield from 75 to 80 per cent, of double kinds. There are more than twenty-five different varieties, of which the following are the most distinct: — Snow-white, light blue, bright carmine, crimson, ashy grey, pale violet, naukeen, brick-red, dark purple, bronze, and black. French Ten-week Stocks.— The flowers of these are small, their shoots are thin, and they have long been superseded by those which have just beea described ; they yield 70 or 80 per cent, of double sorts, but are hardly worth cultivating. Dwarf Ten-Week Stocks.— These are very pretty, and extremely useful for borders or masses. They produce num- berless little shoots, covered with compact masses of bloom, and the kinds are distinct and good. By adopting M. Chate's treatment these will yield from 75 to 80 per cent, of double sorts. There are fifteen distinct varieties with well-marked colours. PiKAMiDAL Ten-week Stocks.— These have very long flower-stalks, and are on that account valuable for many pur- poses. They should be sown in March and July for summer and autumn flowering, and should never be kept through the winter, for during the cold weather they are apt to grow weakly, and produce worthless flowers. When carefully grown they yield from 70 to 80 per cent, of double kinds. The fol- lowing are twelve of the most distinct, viz. : — White, sky-blue, flesh colour, bright carmine, lilac, crimson, dark brown, purplish-pink, chamois, brick-red, black, and bronzed nankeen. Lavender-Leaved Ten-week Stocks. — These furnish fine spikes, thickly covered with beautiful flowers, but their foliage is so bad, and so liable to be attacked by mildew, that they are but little grown. There are fewer double sorts, too, among them than among other varieties, these numbering only 60 or 70 per cent., even when grown according to the best method. The principal kinds are white, carmine, chamois, nankeen, brick-red, buff, light violet, deep violet, and black. [The above is translated from a French pamphlet on growing Stocks on M. Chate's method, who is an extensive cultivator of these plants.] ALPINE PENTSTBMONS AND PHLOXES. The Pentstemona, which form snch a marked feature in the vegeta- tion of Western America, are, for the most part, strongly.growing and showy herbs, or spreading, half-shrubby plants, often very beautiful in colour and graceful in port, bnt having nothing in common with the plants we usually term Alpine. When, however, the traveller crosses the Sierra Nevada, or ascends to the higher mountains of the Rocky Mountain region, he is charmed to see Pentstemons as dwarf and compact as pincushions, and with a dense harvest of flowers set all over their flat and rounded surfaces j these are trne Alpine flowers. I have rooted them out on the Sierra from under several feet of snow as early as the beginning of November. These dwarf Pentstemons are as yet almost unknown to onr gardens, which are however, pretty richly stocked with the tiny Phloxes which frequently grow among the dwarf Pentstemons in the vast tolitades of the dreary looking mountains of Western America. Dreary, indeed, is but a weak term wherewith to describe the scenery in many parts of this region, frequently devoid of the tender carpet of Grass which does so much for our European Alps. But the plant lover, who has admired the tall and stately Phloxes in the woods of the Eastern States, and the Pentstemons of the warmer and drier hill-sides of the Pacific slope, is charmed to find miniatures of both these families cushioned everywhere between the huge boulders and shattered mountain luin. The dwarf-cushioned Phloxes are now very well known in our gardens, and their culture is simple. The dwarf Pentstemons, on the other hand, have got to be added to our garden treasures. Till commoner their home should be the sunny sides of the rock garden in well-drained, gritty, or stony soil. V. Layering Eoses. — Koses are mostly layered either in the autnmn or early spring months. Perhaps November is the best month. Some varieties root readily if the shoots be only pegged down firmly to the ground and covered over with an inch or two of earth. Others, and the more slow-rooting kinds, have a tongue slit or opening made at the base of the bud where roots are expected to be produced. This opening or cut may be made under or over the shoot to be layered. Either way, in covering, a small stone or wedge should be placed in the out bo as to keep it partly open. Boots are 54 THE GARDEN. [July 15, 1876, then formed and sent forth from the end of the oat portion, just as it it were a catting. The weaker side shoota are the easiest to bend down to the earth ; they also root most freely, and consequently form the best layers. The layering of Eoses should not be attempted later than March. Many, however, prefer layering the half-ripened wood in June and July. If branches with later shoots be layered at that season, most of the side shoots may be made to root and form inde- pendent plants before winter. There is thus the gain of a season ; for layers of ripened wood formed in the autumn or spring will not be BiiiEciem,ly rooted to form iudependent plants till a year after, whereas summer layers form plants in a few months. There is yet another simple mode of layering dwarf Roses. At the winter prnuing bend down and bury the heads of the aide branches a few inches in the earth. Most of these will speedily form masses of roots and send up strong shoots when the growing season comes round ; and the plants from such layers can, of coarse, be detached from the parent stools in the autumn.— D. T. Pish. Rocky Mountain Willow Herb (Epilobiam obcordatum). — The Willow Herbs of our own latitudes are very tall and vigorous, bat on the dreary sammits of the Kocky Mountains and Calitornian Sierras, one species has succeeded in contending against the elements by reason of its very dwarf stature ; it has, in fact, imitated the Phloxes and Pentstemons of the region : but though not more than 3 in. high it has retained the size and beauty of flower ot the most vigorous species, the colour being rosy.crimaou. It is perfectly hardy, and thrives in ordinary sandy soil in the rook garden. — V. The Herbaceous Coral-plant (Brythrina herbaoea). — The Herbaceous Coral-plant has a large thick root or underground stem ; the stems, from 2 ft. to 4 ft. high, consist of two sorts, one bearing leaves only and the others only flowers, or with a very few leaves. The leaves are compound, having three divisions or leaflets ; the stems and leaf -stalks are prickly. The flowering stems bear a raceme, 1 ft. or 2 ft. long, of narrow flowers which are about 2 in. long. The several-seeded pod is much constricted between the seeds, which are about the size of a common Bean, and of a bright scarlet. These brilliant seeds are often picked up by travellers in Florida and other Southern States, and they are frequently sent to us for a name. This Coral-plant will probably prove hardy far north of its native localities, as the stems die down in autumn, and the root is protected under ground. Plants of it in our garden near New York survived the severe winter of 1874-1875.— "American Agriculturist." NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. Prolonging the Bloom of Pansies.— PanBies are still among the most attractivG flowers oE our cardens. When they become somewhat tall, and, as not unfretiuenlly happens in the south, infested with insects, it is a good plan to cut them close down ; when this is done, especially it they get a Rood watering where needed, they soon pushup stronc; clean shoots, and flower again abun- dai\lly. In some southern gardens this practice is repeated with success several times daring the season. — V. Edraianthus dalmaticus.— On the ove ot starting for a tour in Switzerland, I write to mention a very pretty and uncommon plant which ia now finely in bloom in my garden on a raised bed. It is the rare Edraianthus dalmaticus, which grows abontlin. orO in. in height, witli Grassy foliage, and vigorous, prostrate stems. The flowers are terminal, and resemble those ot Campanula Elomerata, being clustered in the some manner, and ot a bluish-violet hue. It is a fine plant, and more vigorous than the pretty E. Pumilio, which is seldom seen in cultivation. I find that most of the rarer Alpino plants tlirivo best on a well-prepared and slightly raised border.— Oxoir. Aqnilegia coernlea and 'Whittmanm.—Theseare two of the most beauti- ful of Columbines ; both are now in fall bloom, a condition in which they have been for at least a month. It is difflcalt to say which is tho most lovely — A. ivhittmanni is of a darker blue than A. ccerulea, but it is less graceful in habit. Seeds ot each variety should be Bovna as soon aa they are ripe, in order to en- sure tho plants flowering next year ; daring the second season from seed they will be in tho greatest perfection.— P. G. Bose Cuttings. — One of the most successful Rose raisers that wo ever know was tho lato Mr. C. J. Wistar, of Germantown. He took half-ripe shoots of Roses, and Kose shoots are bait ripe just aljout the time the llowera are fading — and he would put them in pots ot sand- the sand full to tho brim, and oven rounded. These pots were set on a gravel walk, in tho open and broiling sun, and well watered every day ; we are not sure that they had not water several times a day, for Mr. Wistar spent the most of hia days in his garden ; and, it we are not mistaken, they had saucers of water under them besides, and, according to tho " Gardeners' Monthly," every cutting grow. Removing Daisies from Lawns (see p. 46).— Tho only oflectual way of getting rid of Daisies in lawns ia to have them picked out by the hand ; boys or women with short knives or weoders would get them out more rapidly than men. Spring ia tho best time to do the work ; after tho Daisies are all picked out, top-dreae with some flno mould to fill up the holes, sow some la^vn Grass seeds, bush-horrnw, nnd then roll.— M. Watson's lawn snnd, if used in tho quantity prescribed, will kill Daisies and Plantains nnd all other thick-Icavod plants, and does no injury to the Grass. For small lawns, therefore, I can recommend a trial of this sand, but for largo places tho expenao inc\irrod in its use would be considerable. A fiinch of Bgricul'ural suit put in the holes from which Daisies or Plantains have leen cnt out will kill tho roots, and tho Grass will soon coyer the spaces again. Of course this can only be applicable to small lawns whore Daisies and Plan- tains are not very numerous.— W. Tillbbt, Wclbeck. PLANTESTG OUT PLANTS RAISED IN POTS. M.'iNT plants that grow and ripen their produce in the open air are annually raised in pots under glass for the purpose of giving them an early start, and in the case of Tomatoes, Cap- sicums, &c., it is tho custom to grow two or more plants in a pot, and when the proper time arrives for planting them out to do so with the balls entire. I am convinced, however, that wherever it is necessary, owing to want of space, to grow several plants in a pot during the nursing period, they should always be divided and the roots opened oat, when planted finally. As an illustration of what I mean, let us take a pot of Tomatoes, with, say two plants in it, one on each side of the pot ; it may appear at first sight that the plants would receive less check if turned out without breaking tho ball than if it were broken through the middle, and each plant planted singly, but there really is no comparison between the two modes of performing a very simple operation as regards the influence upon the future well-doing of the plants ; and although I have instanced Tomatoes as furnishing a ready illustration, breaking the balls has perhaps less influence upon these than upon many other plants. I need not, I hope, say that I do not advocate any unnecessary mutilation of the roots, but the importance of giving them a proper direction out- weighs any little inconvenience the plants may suffer from a root or two being injured. The fact is, when the soil is warm and moist, wounds heal with astounding rapidity, and new roots are formed in increased numbers without much check being given. I have watched the effect of this many times, and with various kinds of plants, and the advantage was always in favour of unlacing and disentangling the roots, even supposing a fibre or two were ruptured during the process. Whenever it is necessary to plant out anything that has become pot-bound, and it is not thought desirable to interfere with the ball, first make sure that the ball is thoroughly moist, and when planted, make the soil round it as firm as possible, leaving a slight cavity or basin when all is finished, to concentrate the moisture over the ball. When plants are planted from pots with hard balls in freshly turned-up soil, the water drains away too rapidly, and the plants perish from lack of moisture, even though plenty may have been poured round them. And this is one of the greatest objections which I have to planting out pot-bound plants of any kind without disentangling their roots. The work and difiiculty of keeping plants put out under such circumstances supplied with water in a dry soil are increased immensely, whereas if the roots be properly opened out in planting, and laid in fresh moist soil, one or two good waterings will be all that is necessary ; if dry weather follow, mulch thinly or thickly, according to the size of the plants and the nature of the soil. I am not now thinking or speaking of plants that are constantly grown in pots, and have occasionally, as they increase in size, to be shifted on into larger pots. The two cases are not identical, for whilst there may be instances in which it may be desirable to reduce and open out tho roots a little when sub- jected to fresh potting, in the majority of instances with plants in vigorous gi-owth, the less the ball is broken up the better ; but then in growing plants in pots, it is easy to make the thin stratum of new soil between the ball and the sides of the pot firm, so that instead of draining off the water from the roots, it in reality holds plenty of moisture in suspension, which gives the desired encouragement to the growth of the plant. Ramsey Ahhnj. E. Hobday. It is too much the practice of those who call themselves " prac- tical men " to sneer at those engaged in scientific pursuits, a habit more common formerly than at present. But we now hear quite too frequently the remark, " Oh, he is a man of science, but he is not a practical man." So far as I know scientific men, I find them emi- nently practical, accepting nothing upon trust, but always insisting upon tho very bottom facts. The truth is, that all who are engaged in working with Nature, or, to take our own pursuits, all who are engaged with plant life in any manner, are working together for tho general good. As hortionlturiats, we are largely indebted to those working with Nature in other forms. The geologist and chemist have done much for us, and wo have very close relations with the ornithologist and the entomologist, and we find that every depart- ment of natural science somewhere touohes and benefits every other. — Dk, TnURBEK. JraT 15, iBye.] THE GARDEN. 55 A DOUBLE-SPATHBD ARUM LILT. (mCHASDIA ^thiopica). DouBLE-sPATHED Arads are not uncommon, but we never met with an example of this duplication in the case of the jEthio- pian Lily before, although we are told that the case is not quite unique. The one which we now figure was sent us by Mr. White, 26, Broad Street, Worcester, and, as much information in the matter of botany hasbeen obtained by studying exceptions to Nature's laws, we figure this specimen in the hope that it may some day prove as useful as it is now interesting. The ten- Double-apatlied Arnm LUy (Richardia aethiopica). dency to produce double spathes not unfrequently shows itself in the case of the Flamingo-plant (Anthurium Scherzerianum), and an example of this is figured in The Gaeden for 1875, p. 481. B. Hard to Please. — Dr. Goeppert, of Breslau, says that the practice of gardening ia at present no less empirical than it was 2000 years ago, in spite of the constant loss of valuable plants. Nobody knows the chemical composition of our tropical Orchids, Heaths, Australian plants. Palms, &o. It is time to put a stop to this state of matters. It is necessary to analyse the earth in which the plants grow in their native state, and afterwards the plant itself. Thereby we shall be enabled to find out the best soil for each plant. In this manner agriculturists were once, and are still assisted by chemists ; the botanists must also join the chemists, in order to establish a rational method of cultivating plants, which no doubt will turn out to be of great importance as regards the physiology of plants.— [The beautiful and valuable results obtained every day in the culture of flowers and fruits are clearly not enough for Dr. Goeppert, but we should like to see in how far the products of " gardening on chemical principles " would surpass them. We ought to know, however, all that chemistry can teach us of plant lite, and, in short, we have much of it yet to learn. But it must not be forgotten that the culti- vator's case is widely different from that of persons who have to make substances or compounds, discover new metals, or make prac- tical use of chemical knowledge. Nature did nearly all that was needful for the gardener long ago, so far as cultivation is concerned. Her great laboratory has already given him all he needs in her many gardens, if he have the opportunity and the wit to profit by them. Dr. Goeppert looks at the matter in a narrow and pedantic way. Gardening may be "no less empirical than it was 2000 years ago," but in the face of such results as we see every day, such words as we quote can only be regarded as amnsing. — Ed, Gaeden.] HOW LITTLE WE KNOW. The chemical transformation in the bodies of living plants, by which the most manifold and brilliant colours are produced, are almost entirely unknown to us. We see a flower pass through the entire scale of" red, from the softest pink to the darkest purple.brown, but can give no explanation whatever of the mysterious process. We know, for instance, that the light of the sun greatly influences the colour of living plants, and experience has taught ns that in most cases its total exclusion is equivalent to the absence of every colour, in other words, that it produces white leaves and blossoms. How- ever, this rule is by no means without exception, as many roots, the roots of Al Khanna (Lawsonia alba) for instance, although buried in the soil, and completely secluded from the rays of the sun, possess a strong and vivid colour. We can explain neither the rule nor the exception ; on the contrary, we know that, as far as lifeless matter is concerned, mineral or vegetable colours are weakened and gradually destroyed, rather than enhanced, by the action of the light. Our ignorance in this respect restricts our influence upon the coloration of flowers and blossoms, to a very modest and merely empirical one. A mere chance has led to the discovery that the infusion of sulphate of iron into the soil darkens the hue of certain plants which contain a considerable quantity of tannin ; and cultivators have pro- fited by this discovery as regards the culture of the Hydrangea. But these examples are rare ; and, as yet, we must renounce all claim to the control and influence of the natural course of things in this field. We may be able to change the colour of a plant or flower, by transferring it to other soil, but we are never sure of the result, and cannot give any scientific explanation of it. The fragrance of a flower ia likewise produced by chemical action which hitherto has escaped our closest investigations ; we see the result ; we see that a flower, like the bee which transforms pollen into honey and wax, fabricates volatile oils out of air, water, and light ; but the chemical process itself ia a complete mystery to us. We only know that the slowness or rapidity of the evaporation of these oils is the cause of the stronger or weaker odour of the flower. The mode of their formation is a good example of the unlimited variability and manifold variety of vegetation's chemical powers. Many plants do not limit themselves to the formation of a certain volatile oil in their bios- soma or flowers, but produce at the same time various kinda of oils in their different parts. The Orange tree, for instance, produces volatile oils in the leaves, flowers, and the rind of its fruit. _A close investigation convinces ua that these differ, not only in their smell and taste, but also in their weight, density, and other physical and chemical qualities ; that, in short, they are different and independent substances, which cannot be mistaken for each other. The same plant must, therefore, possess three different organisms, by which it generates three entirely different substances out of the same ingre- dients. What chemical laboratory, be it ever so well furnished and skilfully managed, can boast of results in any respect so wonderful ? And when will the time come that we imay surprise even these mysteries of Nature's slow and patient, but mighty working, per. ceive their results, explain their causes, and— if possible, by our own appliances— repeat and renew the wonders of the Creation ? — Peo- FESSOE August Vogel. , Fine-leaved Trees and Shruhs on the Continent.— In a short trip through part of Belgium, Holland, and the Lower Rhine, I have been much plensed with the beauty and variety of the trees and shrubs with which I have casually met, many being rarely seen in Britain. Why this should be I do not quite see, as I should suppose that many of them would thrive in our climate, although they might not grow so luxuriantly as under warm sunshine. I refer specially to the varieties of Oaks and Maples, and to the immense number of variegated and golden-leaved trees and bushes, many of them of considerable size and age; such, for instance, as a variegated Horse Chestnut in the curious Dutch village of Brook. Then, again, besides Copper Beech and Hazel, which are very numeroua and often of great size, I met with a Copper Birch (which waa new to me), and also Copper Oaks. I do not think enough notice ia taken of many of these in this country. So much attention has of late been given to Conifers that other trees have not received the notice to which they are entitled. Of these one meets with comparatively few m the localities I have been in, and in many cases they are far from flourishing, and only placed in their summer quarters when the severities of the winter have passed away. — W. Wood Pavement.— Those interested in this pavement will find, in the Strand at the end of Newcastle Street, an example of what it is likely to,tecome when a little decayed. Anything more offensive or unhealthy it would be diBicuit to devise. 56 THE GARDEN. [July 15, 1876. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINBS. Pits and Frames. — Where pot planta are grown in pits they mnst be kept well up to the glass, or thoy are apt to become " drawn." Plants in such structures are more liable to get neglected as regards water than in houses, where they can be more readily examined. Under such circumstances, too, insects are more likely to escape observation than in more open quarters, and, therefore, must be looked after more closely. In addition to supplying pot plants with suffi. cicnt water at the roots, it is also requisite, while active growth is progressing, to keep the floors of the pits or frames on which they stand well and regularly moistened, for if this be not attended to, the atmosphere during hot sunny weather becomes so dry that healthy growth is out of the question. Cucumbers planted in frames early in the season will now need attention to keep them in bearing ; they must be regularly watered and also syringed daily, applying the water to the under as well as the upper surface of the leaves, or they will be sure to become a prey to red spider. If their roots have got down into the manure of which the bed is made, they will not require much mannre-water ; but if that be not the case, and they appear to lack vigour, they will need help in this way once or twice a week. If frame Cucumbers bo kept clear from insects, and sufficient sustenance be given them in this manner, they can be made to continue bearing from spring until autumn ; if they bo now too much crowded with shoots, thin them well out, and if a little fresh soil be added, and some of the shoots pegged down into it, they will quickly throw out roots, which will tend to greatly strengthen them. Melons that are swelling their fruit should have sufficient water to support them, but be careful not to wet them much near the collar, for that might tend to induce canker. Such as are nearly ripe should have little water given them, or it will have a tendency to make the fruit crack, and also to impair its flavour. Those that were planted late in frames after these bad been cleared of bedding plants should be encouraged to make growth, swell off, and ripen their fruit before the autumn gets too far advanced, or the fruit will be inferior in quality. See that a sufficiency of bottom- heat is kept np. Patting Grass mowings regularly round the sides of the bed will be found of service in this respect ; and if they can be mixed with a portion of fresh stable manure, the heat will be kept up all the longer. Use the syringe often enough to keep down spider, for if this pest get a footing, the fruit will be both small and flavourless. Peaches and Nectarines. — These should be gone over aa often as they require it, removing all superabundant and ill-placed shoots. Take care, however to destroy none that will be required for bearing next year. Want of observation and forethought in this matter is the cause of so many of these trees being deficient in the way of bearing wood in the centre, the fruit being borne almost exclusively near the extremities of the branches, instead of being evenly dis- tributed over the whole surface. Such shoots as are to be retained should now be all laid in close to the wall, an operation especially necessary in late localities, where there is a difficulty in getting the wood ripened over each tree ; moreover, now and then, to see that the fruit is fully exposed to the sun, and where any symptoms of mildew, either on the leaves or fruit, show themselves, dust the tree, or at all events the affected parts, with flowers of sulphur, by means of the old-fashioned sulphur-puff, a contrivance as yet unsurpassed for the purpose : it is bo simple in its construction that it cannot get out of order, and by its use the sulphur can be directed to any part where necessaiy, both to the upper and under surfaces of the leaves. Let the sulphur remain undisturbed four or five days before it is syringed oft. Mildew is making its appearance upon Peaches later than nsnal ; be assiduous in regularly syringing with water, and also in giving a copious supply to the roots ; this is not only necessary to enabliB the fruit to attain its full size, but also to prepare good wood for another season. Where, in the early part of summer, trees are allowed to suffer from want of water, the growth necessarily gets stopped before its time, and when copious rains come during Augnst these have the effect of causing them to push fresh growth, for the ripening of which there is neither sun nor time. I have no hesitation in saying that half the failures that occur in the cultivation of Peaches and Nectarines, particularly in small gardens, are due to the trees not receiving sufficient attention. With the exception of pruning and nailing, thoy are, comparatively speaking, often left to take their chance, or they are subjected to a course of alternate care and neglect, which results in a crop of fruit being obtained in such seasons as it is to bo mot with everywhere, but none at other times. There is also an immense difference in the size and quality of fruit borne by trees that receive the requisite attention as compared with that produced by those existing under neglected conditions. Apricots. — These should also have sufficient young shoots nailed or tied in close to the wall to supply bearing wood evenly over the whole surface. Those young shoots, when in absolute contact with the wall, will frequently set a crop of fruit when that upon spurs, which stand further away, is destroyed by spring frosts. The differ. ence that 2 in. make in such matters would scarcely be credited by those who have not had an opportunity, or taken the trouble, to com. pare the results. Pears and Plums on walls should have their summer shoots removed as soon as they have ceased to grow, a state at which the trees will arrive sooner or later, according to the earliness or lateness of the locality in which they are grown. The object in taking these summer shoots off is to give the tree a better opportunity to form frnit.buds for the ensuing year, and to expose these to the ripening influence of sun and air ; but if such shoots be removed too soon, i.e., whilst there is a considerable flow of sap in the trees, more harm than good will be done, as the trees will start again into growth. The usual way is to break the breast-wood (for that is the term usually applied to these summer shoots) off with the thumb laid across the blade of the pruning.knife, or a stout pair of ordinary nippers may be used for the purpose, severing the shoots at about halt or three-quarters of an inch above the point from which they spring. Kitchen Garden. — Old Strawberry beds that have become exhausted, should be dug over as soon as the fruit is gathered. The best method is to cut them off with the spade just below the collar, and bury them as the work goes on, opening a trench for the purpose enffioiently wide at the commencement. The old tops thus dug under will benefit the ground, especially if it be of a heavy character. There is no better crop to follow Strawberries, when dug up at this time of the year, than Turnips, which should be sown as soon as rain falls after the ground is prepared. Continue sowing successions of Lettuces in order to keep up the requisite supply ; the smaller Cabbage kinds, such as Tom Thumb, will now be found more suitable than the Cos varieties. A little Endive should also now be sown. Persevere in the destruction of weeds as fast as they appear; the recent hot weather has been favourable for eradicating them, if the hoe have been kept going, as it should have been, between growing crops and bush fruits. Amongst the latter weeds are often neglected, from whence, if allowed to seed there, they spread on to the more open spaces, and are a source of endless trouble. It is almost useless keeping one part of a garden clean it another portion be left uncared for. When the weather is at all favourable continue to plant out autumn and winter crops, but it the plants have been prepared by previously pricking out in a nursery bed of rich loose soil so that they will move well with plenty of roots, or even if well thinned in the seed-bed where sown, they may be planted in dry weather, first giving them a good soaking and repeating it when planted. If the weather keep dry, except where the soil is of a more than commonly moist nature, many plants will require copious watering, but when it is given, in all cases apply enough to moisten the earth as deep as the roots descend ; surface watering is worse than nothing. Such things as Peas and Kunner Beans will be much benefited by mulching with littery manure, the fertilising elements from which will be washed down to the roots, and the covering it affords to the Burfaco will prevent the ground from drying so quickly. Conservatories. The numerous choice stove plants available at this season for deco. rating both greenhouses and conservatories, will afford more richness and variety, both in foliage and flower, than is attainable in these comparatively cool houses at any other season of the year j and aa it will not bo safe to allow choice specimens of these to remain in such structures for any lengthened period, it will be well to nse them as extensively as possible during the next month or two, in order that the pleasure to be derived from them may be enjoyed without having to go into the strong moist heat of the stove to view them. By means of frequent changes and occasional re-arrangement much interest may be imparted and fresh effects produced in such honses ; and, in addition to all this, the plants will be greatly benefited by being turned and changed about, so aa to expose a fresh side to the light. Were this more attended to, leas training and tying would be requisite, and the use of objectionable stakes puncturing the ball might then in a great measure be dispensed with. Before placing choice specimens of stove plants in the conservatory, however, see that they are properly hardened, and select for them the best posi. tiona for showing them off to advantage, taking care at the same time that they are out of the way of cold draughts, and that they do not stand where air when admitted would come in immediate contact with them. To ensure their safety, keep them as dry at the root as JtTLT IS, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 67 the plants will bpar witliont flaggiDg or shedding their flowers — thus treated thjy will endure the change much better than if they were freely supplied with water ; wet and cold, at the eame time, having a paralysing effect on them. Keep roof-climbers properly thinned and regulated, otherwise, owing to the rapid growth which they are now making they will soon become entangled and lose much of their grace and beauty. It ia rare that conservatory borders are of sufficient depth or extent to keep in health snch fast-growing, free- flowering plants as Begonias, Passifloras, TacEonias, &c. ; and whore any of these are at all pinched for root-room, the deficiency in soil must be made up by giving an abundant supply of water, or rod spider will soon make its appearance, and when once this pest becomes established, its removal is a work of some difficulty. Where it can bo dene without being objectionable, a good syringing will do ranch to check its ravages. In order to counteract the extreme dryness usual in lofty conservatories, every opportunity should be taken to damp the borders well, and to pour water about in every available place where it is not likely to be objectionable or cause inconvenience. Where this cannot be done, a gentle bedewing overhead has a refreshing and beneficial efiect. The African Lily (Agapanthns umbellatus) is ope of the best plants which it is possible to have for conservatory decoration at this season, as it appears perfectly indifferent whether the atmosphere be dry or moist so long as it is afforded plenty of water at the roots, which may easily be done by sotting their pots in pans of water. Fed in this way, they last in bloom a long time, and go on forming fresh growth without check or hindrance. Any that are not showing flowers, or that have had them cut, may at once be divided, if an increase of stock be desired. This can be best done by severing the ball with a sharp spade, as it is a difiicult matter to accomplish it in any other way, en account of tho great number of roots that inter, lace each other. In potting they can scarcely have a soil too rich and good, or too much room to grow in. A stiff, fibry loam, with a fifth part of well-decomposed manure, will suit them admirably ; and when potted they should be placed in some shady, sheltered position, where they can be kept well watered, in order to give them a start, after which they will be benefited by more sun and light. Japanese Xiilies. — The earliest of these will now be coming into bloom, and should have every assistance afforded them by giving liberal supplies of manure water whenever they become dry. Fre- quent and weak applications are mnoh better than occasional strong doses ; and in all cases where liquid manure is made nee of, it should be given in that way. Eumea elegans. — The stately beauty of the Humea elegans at this season, when clothed with its rich, brown, feathery inflorescence, is most striking, and few plants impart a more dressy appearance to a house, or are more useful and durable than it is when judiciously introduced amongst other plants. It obviates flatness and uniformity — matters to be avoided in all well-managed conservatories. In order to keep its leaves fresh and healthy the roots must be kept con. stantly moist. To do this it will be requisite to water at least once a day, so rapidly does it absorb water to support the large heads of bloom which it invariably carries when well grown. To get plants of it for next season, seed should be sown at once, or the produce will not have time to attain a sufBcient size to be useful and effective. The variety known as H. elegans purpurea, owing to its greater warmth of colour, is the most desirable to grow. Of this the seed should be sown in pans containing moist, rich soil, and, covered with a glass, which should be kept shaded till the seed germinates. Segonias. — Few flowering plants make a more brilliant display, or are better adapted for conservatory decoration at this season, than tuberous-rooted Begonias, moat of which are as hardy and easily grown as a Fuchsia or Pelargonium. Those who are not so fortunate as to possess a few of the best kinds of them, should lose no time in procuring them, and at once set about their propagation, which if not done early ia aure to result in failure, as they have not sufficient time to form tub^a before winter seta in. Cuttings of them do best put in under a handlight, placed on a cool, moist bottom, such as the natural soil, or a bed of coal ashes, and as it is beat to winter them in the pota in which they are atruck without any further disturbance, three or four put round the edge of a 48-Bized pot will be found to be enough. All the attention which they require is keeping them properly shaded, and occasionally damped over, so as to prevent them from flagging, and to encourage the formation of roots which they soon emit under the favourable conditions. In taking the cuttings, select such side-shoots as have little flower on them, and before put. ting them in, nip out any buds that may be showing themselves. Most of the tnberous.rooted Begonias come freely from seed, and by Bowing at once good flowering plants may be obtained for use next summer and autumn, although they would have been stronger and better had they been inserted earlier. The seed, which should be sown in pans filled with moist soil, should be kept close under a handlight in any cool house, where it will soon germinate. After tho young plants are np they may be treated aa recommended for the cuttings. The best place in which to grow plants of these tuberous, rooted Begonias ia a cool pit or frame where they are not subjected to much sun, and where they can have plenty of atmospheric moisture, in which they greatly delight. It set on pieces of slate on the natural ground, this can be readily afforded them by means of heavy syring. ings, or an occasional watering overhead, using a fine-rosed watering, pot for the purpose. If well-drained they can scarcely have too much water at the root while growing and blooming, but the supply should be gradually withheld in the autumn as t'ne tops show signs of ripening off. The most suitable place in which to winter them ia the back shelf of a greenhouse, where they can be kept free from drip ; or any cool, dry pit will answer the purpose equally well. Zonal Pelargoniums. — Old plants of these started early will now be coming into bloom, and where at all cramped for pot-room (in which state they always flower with greater freedom than when they have plenty of room), frequent waterings of manure-water will bo of the greatest assistance to them. This is at all times better than giving them a rich, stimulating soil and large pots to grow in, aa in that case they produce little else than leaves, and are of no value as decorative plants. By confining them to moderate-sized pota, and giving them only good fibry loam to grow in, the wood which they make ia sure to be short-jointed and solid, in which condition bloom is produced with the greatest freedom. The great advantage possessed by manure-water is that it can be administered just at the time when plants most require assistance, and that ia when they are carrying a large head of bloom j whereas, if potted in rich soil, the stimulus is given at the wrong time, and fails when it ia most needed, and when the roots cannot respond to the demands made on them, having already used up in strong, rank growth what they had. In order to keep up a succession of these useful summer, blooming plants, a portion of the stock should have the blooms picked off and be set in an open, sunny position out-of-doors, plunged, and well attended to with water. Treated in this way they flower in the freest manner possible directly they are placed under glass, and go on producing blossoms for a great length of time. In addition to their great value as summer-blooming plants, they may, with a little management, be had in flower in the winter, a time when such brilliant-coloured blossoms as Zonal Pelargoniums produce are aure to be moat acceptable. Autumn, or very early spring-struck plants are best for the purpose, and these should at once be potted in moderate-sized pota, in rather poor loamy soil than otherwise, the object being to prevent them running to leaf when placed in heat, which they would be sure to do if they had rich soil or much root, room. When potted, they should be plunged in a bed of coal ashes, where they can be fully exposed to the sun, that the growth they make may be close and firm, as it is only snch from which flowers can be obtained in the winter. Stop any strong shoots that break away and appear likely to take the lead, so as to keep the plants in shape and induce them to form fresh growth ; but this stopping should not be continued after the middle or end of August at the latest. Old stunted plants of the double varieties, when placed in dry heat in the winter, yield flowers most freely, and are more valuable for cutting than the single kinds, on account of their lasting so much better in that atate. Any that can be spared may now be prepared for tho purpose by standing them out.of-doors, and keeping them rather dry at the root, so as to induce a hard, woody growth, from which there will be no difficulty in getting a fair amount of bloom as soon as they are subjected to house treatment in the autumn. Madame Lemoine is one of the best for producing flowers late, the lovely soft pink colour of which blends well with Eucharia, white Camellias, double Primulas, or other light blooms that may then be obtained for bouquet making. — J. Sheppaed, Wooh-erstone Parle. Orcliids. Some of the Burmese and other deciduous Dendrobinms will now have finished their growth, but as the exact stage in which each plant now happens to be must depend in a great measure on the temperature in which it has been grown, and the amount of air th^t has been admitted, the cultivator must make sure that the new psendo-bnlba are completed before putting the plants into their rest, ing qnarters. The last received importation of D. Wardianum, D. crassinode, &c., has been widely distributed, and the plants have been subjected to various kinds of treatment, some of them having been grown in the cold Odontoglossum house, others in tho inter, mediate house, and many in the East Indian house, circumstances under which all the plants seem to have done well, but those grown in the intermediate house appear to be the soundest and healthiest. The future condition and flowering of the plants will, therefore, have to be determined by the treatment they henceforth receive. Those fiS THE GARDEN. [July 18, 1876. which have been grown in baskets will be found to be mneh lesa fiiflS. onlt to manage than those grown in pots. Any of the Dendrobinms which have completed their growth should be sponged over, in order to remove such insects as may be upon them, and which would in. crease rapidly on being placed in a dry house. The plants, if in baskets or on blocks, should then be suspended from the roof of a dry, cool, well-ventilated house (not necessarily an Orchid house) in full sunshine, and only enough water should be given them to prevent their shrivelling ; if in pots, they should be placed on the sunny side of the house on a trellis. work stage, or on a shelf, and treated similarly. The leaves will soon turn yellow, but they should not on any aceonnt be cut off ; if left alone they will fall off naturally, and the pseudo-bulbs, being thoroughly ripened by the sun, will produce flowers freely. In this manner the plants should be kept, giving them as little water as possible, until they again begin to grow, when they should have more water and a higher temperature. D. Wardianum seems so consti. tuted as to be better able to adapt itself to circumstances than most other Orchids, for if the plants be not (and sometimes if they be) removed to a cool, dry house as soon as they have completed their pseudo-bulbs, they start at once again into new growth in spite of every means that may be taken to prevent it ; if the plants, there- fore, persist in growing, it is best to place them again in a warm house and to treat them as growing plants until the growth is finished, when they may be rested in the ordinary way. This second growth is frequently made by the Dendrobium mentioned, as well as by p. Falooneri and a few others, without apparent injury to the plants j indeed, they are sometimes lost by too strict means being resorted to in order to prevent it. Sunshine is highly important to these plants, for if by its means the pseudo.bulbs be not well ripened they fre- quently produce growth instead of flower from the ioints.— James O'BbiEiV. Floral Decorations for July. Little need be said about the flowers which the month of July affords to the decorator, inasmuch as they are snflioiently numerous to please the most fastidious. This season has been such an un. usually late one, that the present month has this year the benefit of several flowers which, in ordinary years, would have been out of bloom before the end of June. The Larkspur is the most important addition to previous lists of blue and purple; it occurs in nearly every shade of these two colours, and is invaluable, owing to its lasting properties when out of water without fading. I have seen many pretty colour-effects produced by mounting each separate flower upon a wire and studding them about in different parts of a vase, especially amongst a few Grasses, to form a light top to a vase ; nevertheless, I do not approve of the practice sufficiently to have recourse to it in my own decorations. It borders too closely on mutilation of flowers, to which I am decidedly averse, and of which I lately saw an instance in some pieces of an apparently new flower in a bridal bouquet, which, on close examination, turned out to be Hoya bella with the pink centre cut out ! This reminds me of another instance of pulling a flower-truss to pieces which I noticed at a recent display of table decorations, where single flowers of Hoya carnosa were stuck upon "stubs" about the flat base of a large vase, with some 3 m. of the black wire visible. It can be only necessary to call attention to these extravagances in flower-mounting to insure their condemnation by every one possessed of good taste. There are many flowers now in bloom, such as Jasmines, the whole order of Scrophu. lariaceaj, and many of the Boraginaceas and Labiata), which well repay one for the trouble of gumming the corolla into the calyx, a practice which prevents the coloured portion of the tubular blossoms from falling out of their green unornamental calyx, and thus spoiling the bouquet. The following is a list of the various colours and the flowers which furnish them :— B! 1(6— Corn-flower, Gentianella, Iris, Larkspur, Myosotis, Nemophila, P«jy!e— Heliotrope, Iris, Larkspur, Lupine, Pansy, Phlox, Sweet Pea, Verbena. Jfawe— Heath, Iris, Pansy. Pini— Antirrhinum, Begonia, Bouvardia, Carnation, Fancy Pelar. gonium, Fuchsia, Hydrangea, Oleander, Phlox, Pyrethrum, Rho. danthe, Rose, Sweet and Everlasting Peas, Sweot William, Ver- _ bena. Willow Herb, Zonal Pelargonium. Crimson.— Antirrhinum, Bachelor's-button, Bouvardia, Foxglove, Fuchsia, Phlox, Pink, Potentilla, Pyrethrnm, Ragged Robin, Rose, Spiraja, Sweet and Everlasting Peas, Sweet William, Verbena, Maroon.— Clove, Pink, Carnation. 5fcar^ee.--Bouvardia, Carnation, Potentilla, Poppy, Salvia, Tropu3olum, Verbena, Zonal Pelargonium. Owije,— Carnation, Erysimum, Esohsoholtzia, Lily, Potentilla, Rose. Yellow. — Alyssnm, Antirrhinum, Buttercup, Calceolaria, Esoh. scholtzia, Genista, Iris, Jasmine, Potentilla, Rocket, Rose, St. John's Wort, Water Lily. 'Wliite. — Alyssum, Antirrhinum, Aponogeton, Arabis, Arum, Begonia, Bouvardia, Buttercup, Carnation, Dentzia, Eucharis, Fancy Pelargonium, Fo.tglove, Gardenia, Heath, Iberis, Jasmine, Lily, Myrtle, Mock Orange, Myosotis, Phlox, Pink, Rhodanthe, Spirsea, Stephanotis, Sweet and Everlasting Peas, Water Lily, Woodruff. — W. T. T. I'Xi.A.TE x:x:ix. THE ABBLIAS. (WITU A COLOURED riGUBE OF ABELIA IRirLORA). We have been induced to figure Abelia triflora in Tue Garden from seeing what a beautiful flowering shrub it forms at Glasnevin, where the climate is by no means so favourable as in many other districts. The specimen at Glasnevin, which is about 8 ft. high and nearly as much through, flowers for many weeks during the summer, and the blooms are delicately fragrant ; altogether we have not seen a more beautiful shrub. It may be seen at Kew, growing on the wall near the her- baceous plants, but it would probably prove perfectly hardy around London as well as near Dublin, especially on warm favourable soils. We presume it may be obtained in our large tree and shrub nurseries — certainly nothing better deserves a place therein. The genus Abelia belongs to the Honeysuckle family, and is closely allied in structural characters to the elegant little trailer, Linnsea borealis. Indeed, it has been proposed by a German botanist, Dr. Yatke, to incorporate Abelia with Linnaea; but, independently of the difference in habit, there are very good technical characters separating them. The principal distin- guishing character resides in the calyx, the sepals of which persist and enlarge after the corolla has fallen away, and crown the ripe fruit. There are only about four or five species of Abelia, and they are found in widely distant parts of the world, namely, Northern India, China, and Japan, and two or three in Mexico. The following are the species worth cultivating : — Fragrant Abelia (A. triflora). — The subject of the plate is a native of the mountains of Northern India, between 6000 ft. and 9000 ft. above the sea, where it forms a small tree or shrub, accord- ing to the elevation and situation of the locality. We have not a large selection of hardy trees and shrubs from the mountains of India, but moat of them are really valuable : such are the Deodar, Pinus excelsa, and Leycesteria formosa, a shrub belonging to the same family as the Abelias. The Fragrant Abelia is no exception to this rule, but although it has been in cultivation in this country nearly thirty years, it is rarely seen outside of a botanic garden. Some idea of its ornamental character may be obtained from the accompanying portrait, and any one who has once seen it covered with a profusion of its fragrant and pretty, though small, flowera will be anxious to possess it. With us it forms a handsome, slender, branched, deciduous shrub, flowering in May and June. A fine specimen of it may be seen on the east side of the wall bounding the " herbaceous ground " at Kow. The long, slender, fringed calyx lobes crowning the seed-vessel give the plant a very pleasing appear- ance for months after the corollas have fallen away. The name triflora does not at first sight appear to be an appropriate one, but it has reference to the three-flowered branches of tho inflorescence. There is an imperfect figure of it in Paxton's " Flower Garden " for 1852-3, drawn from living specimens received from Mr. Moore, of Glasnevin. Mr. Moore states that it was then nicely in flower in the open border, where it had stood in front of one of the conservatories without protection since it was planted, four years previously. Major Madden sent the seeds thither from Simla in 1847. Large-flowered Abelia (A. uniflora, Bot. Mag., t. 4694). — This species was sent by Mr. Fortune from North China to Messrs. Standish and Noble, some years ago, and it was figured in the Bot. Mag. in 1852, t. 169 1. Tho name uniflora is inappropriate, inasmuch as the peduncles are frequently two or threc-flowored. In everything except structure this differs very widely from the shrub figured. It has large, funnel-shaped flowers, with a broad tube, not unlike those of some of tho smaller Javanese Rhododendrons, white tinged with pink, about li in. long by 1 in. across the mouth, and borne on short stalks, so that the flower and stalk together do not equal the leaves. In this, usually only two of the calyx.lobes persist and grow ne Garden, Office 37, .Southarapton otreef Covent Garden, Lor.don W.r "'HE FRAGRANT ABELTA (A. TRIFLORA) July 18, 18?6.] THE GARDEN. 69 out, and they are oblong, entire, about half an inch long, and tinged with reddiah.brown. In habit this shrub is low and bushy, with Blender, usually opposite, branches, and broadly-lanceolate, distantly toothed, rather thick, leathery, dark green leaves. Of its hardiness I can say nothing from experience, for, although it was introduced so long ago, I do not remember having seen it in the open air. But it is stated in the But. Mag. that it withstood the winter of 1851-2 in the Bagshot Nurseries without protection, and promised to be not only a hardy but an ornamental shrub. Whether it disappointed the hopes it first raised I cannot say, but the allied Diervillas (Weigelas) are doubtless handsomer and more floriferous, and perhaps hardier It may be mentioned that the shape of the corolla approaches that of Diervilla. There is a plant very much like this, save that it is smaller in all parts, figured in Siebold and Zuocarini's " Flora Japonioa," vol. i., t. 31, under the name of A. serrata. In this the leaves and flowers are less than half the size of those represented in the Bot. Mag., but cultivation and selection of a superior variety may account for this. Siebold's plant is described as inhabiting the mountains of Japan in dry, open places, usually associated with Azaleas, Vacciniums, Andromedas, Hydrangeas, &c., up to an eleva- tion of 1800 ft. above the sea. Copioua-flowering Abelia (A. floribunda, Bot. Mag., t. 4316) . — ^A greenhouse shrub, and the showiest species of the genus known. It is a dwarf, bushy plant, with small, ovate, toothed leaves usually less than 1 in. long, and long, narrow, tubular flowers of a bright purple-red colour. In this species all five of the sepals per- sist, and are of nearly equal size, oblong, and fringed on the margin, and the corolla has a long, slender tube, as in Bonvardia j not broad, as in the preceding species. The native country of this is Mexico, where it grows on the Peak of Orizaba up to the altitude of 10,000 ft. above the level of the sea. It was introduced into Europe through the Belgian nurserymen, and reached this country about the year 1847. For some time it bore the name of Vesalea floribunda in gardens. A. rupestris (Bot. Reg., vol. xxxii., t. 8), judging from the figure, is a somewhat dingy-flowered species in the way of A. grandiflora but with much smaller flowers clustered towards the ends of the very slender, pendent branches ; it has broad, persistent calyx-lobes, all five of which are developed. Mr. Fortune found it amongst rocks on the Chamoo Hills, China, and described it as a fine dwarf shrub. It is said to differ from the original species, A. chinensis, figured and described by Brown in an "Appendix to Abel's Journey in China," in having no involucre and other trifling particulars, but I have failed to discover any good character to separate them. Finally there is the A. spathulata, of Siebold and Zuccarini, of which I have seen only a fragmentary dried specimen, and the figure in their " Flora Japonica." It appears to differ only in the shape of its leaves from their A. serrata. W. B. Hemslet. THE LIBRARY. The Silicium of Plants. — We (" Academy ") pointed out some time since the analogy in respect to chemical character which exists between carbon and silicium, and to the high probability that a portion at least of the silica found in the ash of a plant may be due to the combination of organic compounds containing silicium. Laden- burg's search for a silicium-cellulose or an allied body, although incomplete, favoured this view. We find, however, that Professor Wilson, of the Medical Department of Washington University, Balti- more, has solved the very difficult question as to the manner in which silicium is taken up. He makes the astonishing announcement (" American Journal of Science," May, 1876), that " free silica is the only condition in which it (i.e., silica) can enter the plant." He has examined the stalk of wheat grown on the infusorial earth of Chesa- peake Bay, and finds its silicious portion to consist wholly of the sili- cious shields of Diatomacete. This function, it appears, however, is not extended to the "outer husk" of every diatom ; two forms, the names of which should be put on record, Actinocyclus Ehrenbergi and Aotinoptychus nndulatus, were absent. " They, and there pro- bably may be other forms, are too large to enter the root capillaries." Sugar from Melons. — it is stated that the experiment is to be tried in Sacramento City of manufacturing augar from Melons. It has, for many years paat, been considered that there is more saccharine mat- ter in them than in Beets, and that the establiahmenb of a factory will famiah a market for the many hundred tons of Melons that are usually left to rot in the fields after the market becomes glutted. The language of flowers, which is common in Turkey, owes its intro- duction into Europe to Lady Mary Wortley Montagu. The Persian personifies the Rose, and makes it the mistress of the nightingale, to which, in the return of spring, he tells his amorous pains ; the Hindoo dedicates flowers to his divinity, whose various attributes they represent to his imagination ; but it is in Turkey alone, that we find this mysterious language to which there exists nothing similar among other oriental nations,— W. NOTES ON COLLECTING AND PRESERVING NATURAL HISTORY OBJECTS.* This is a very useful little book -with a distinct aim, which is well carried out. It is writteu by a dozen or more competent naturalists, each o£ whom gives trustworthy information on that branch of natural history with which he is most familiar. Thus geological specimens— how to seek for them— where to find them — and how to arrange them when found — are well treated of by Mr. J. E. Taylor; bones, by Mr. E. F. Lewin; birds' eggs, by Mr. T. Southwell ; butterflies and moths, by Dr. Knaggs ; beetles, by Mr. E. C. Rye ; hymenoptera, by Mr. J. 13. Bridgman ; land and freshwater shells, by Prof. Tate ; flowering plants, by Mr. Britten ; Grasses, by Prof. Buckmau ; Mosses, by Dr. Braithwaite; fungi, by Mr. Worthington Smith ; Lichens, by the Rev. Mr. CJrombie ; and seaweeds, by Mr. W. H. Grattann. The following extract from Mr. Britten's essay will serve to show the way in which the work has been done : — Preserving Flowering Plants and Ferns. The kindred subjects of the collection of plants and the arrange, ment in the herbarium have been treated of over and over again, and it might almost seem as though nothing further need be said upon the matter. But in spite of all that has been written, it cannot be said that anything like uniform excellence has been attained, either in the collecting or drying of specimens ; on the contrary, much care, lessness is still exhibited in both particulars. The aim to be kept in view is to obtain as perfect a specimen as possible ; that is, one showing every part of the plant— root, leaves, flowers, and fruit. It is not always practicable to show all these upon one specimen, and in such cases the requisite number must be selected to carry out this plan. The wretched scraps with which some collectors content themselves are not only useless to their owners, but annoy, anoes to every one who has to do with them, or who is requested to pronounce an opinion upon them. To begin at the beginning, how rarely do we find the embryo ot any species represented in a collection of dried plants ? It ought to be there, not only as essential to the complete presentment of the history of the species, but as in certain cases indicating relationships which are not apparent when the plant is more advanced. Those who have not observed them would be surprised to find how much variety ot form exists in the cotyledons alone, from the fleshy cotyle- dons of many of the Leguminosas, the Horse Chestnut, &c., to the foliaoeous ones, or seed-leaves, of other plants. Among the latter maybe noted and compared the lobed or palmate cotyledons of the Lime, the glossy dark green, somewhat kidney-shaped ones of the Beech, and the pinnatifid ones of the common garden Cress (Lepidmm sativum) ; the oboordate ones of the Mustard or Radish ; the long, narrow thin ones of the Sycamore ; the sinuous or corrugated and bilobed one ot the Walnnt ; and many more which will occur to the observant reader, or which may be collected by any one who will take the trouble to watch the germination of plants : and by making such collections, unexpected disooveties may arise, which will yet turther confirm what has been said about the variety in form and structure even in these beginnings of growth. Plants which are, on account of their general affinities, reckoned among the dicotyledons, may be found on investigation to have but one cotyledon, as Dr. Dickson observed to be the case with two of our Bntterworts, Pinguicula vulgaris and P. grandiflora, the third species, P. lusitamca, being dicotyledonous j or even to be acotyledonous, as is the case with the Dodder (Cuscuta). In the latter-named genus, it is of importanoe to collect young specimens, as showing that the plant, although parasitic as soon as it comes in contact with a suitable foster-p ant is of independent origin. A search among young plants will no doubt lead to the discovery ot some abnormalities, such as tnootyle. donons embryos and other irregularities Of some plants, such as the Furze, the true leaves can only be found at an early stage of growth: in others, much variation may be noted m many points between the first leaves and the more perfect ones which succeed them J some, as the Holly, at once developing leaves similar to those which are produced throughout the life of the plant, and others eoiog through many modifications before the ultimate shape is attHined, as in the Ash, Elder, Ivy, Maple, &c. The roots or rhizomes also require to be much more fully repre- sented and carefully collected than is usually the case. In every instance where the size of the plant does not prevent, the subter- ranean and subaqueous part should be carefully procured and pre- » " Notes on CoUectinR and Preserving Natural History Objects." London : Hardwicke & Bogue, 193, PiccadiUy, W. 60 THE GARDEN. [July 15, 1876. BervcJ. Dr. Trimen haa lately directed attention to the corm.like tabers of the Water Plantain (Alisma), closely regembiing those of the Arrowhead (Sagitlaria), which have been described and figured by Nolte, bnt " do not seem to have been observed, or at least pro. perly understood, in this country. They are bads remaining dormant through the winter, and containing a store of nutriment, to be employed in the development of the new plant from the tuber in the next year." Similar bulbs are developed by the Frogbit (Hydrooharis). In determining many Grasses and rushes, it is of importance to ascertain whether the rhizome is creepingor cas^pitose, and it is therefore essential to collect good specimens. In the case of such plants as the Coral-wort (Dentaria bnlbifera) and Tooth-wort (LathraDii equamaria), the root.stocks are eminently characteristic. Of such parasites as the Broomrapes (Orobanche), some care is requisite in obtaining specimens in which the connection between the parasite and its foster-plant may be preserved and shown. The absence or presence of tubers should also be noted, and if present, they must be represented. Passing on to the leaves, we may note the importance of obtaining in every case the root-leaves of each species. These are often very different in form from the stem. leaves, as in such species as the Hairbell (Campanula rotnndifolia), Pimpinella saxifraga, the Earth, nut (Bunium fiexuosnm), and many more j in some instances, as in the Jersey Buglosa (Echium plantagineum),they at once characterise the species. Still more important are these lower leaves in the case of water-plants; in the Arrowhead (Sigittaria), for example, they are narrow, and resemble those of the Bur-reed (Sparganium) ; and in the Water Plantain (Alisma plantago), the submerged leaves are equally different from those which rise out of the water. This difference is still more noticeable in the case of the aquatic Kanun. culi, wliere a knowledge of the submerged leaves is essential to the discrimination of the various forms or species. Where practicable, the whole plant should be collected for the lierbarium ; but when, from its size, this cannot be accomplished, leaves from the root, the centre of the main stem, and the lateral branches, should be taken. As to the stem itself, that must be represented; in the Rubi, indeed, it is essential. "To judge pro- perly of a Bramble from a preserved specimen," says Professor Babington, " we require a piece of the middle of the stem with more than one leaf ; the base and tip of the stem are also desirable, like- wise a piece of the old stem with the flowering shoot attached to it ; the panicle with flowers, and the fruit. Wo likewise want to know the direction of the stem throughout, of the leaflets, and of the calyx ; also the shape of the petals and the colour of the styles ; a note of these should be made when the specimen is gathered." Passing on to the flowers, wo shall find it necessary to represent them in almost every stage, from the bud to the perfecting of the fruit. It is of course in most cases possible to select an example in Buoh a state as to show npon the same plant buds, flowers, and fruits ; but where this is not the case, each of these particulars must be supplemented by additional specimens. The turn which botanical investigation has recently taken towards the study of the phenomena connected with fertilisation haa given the collector another subject to which his attention may be profitably directed. It has been observed that in some plants the stamens are developed before the pistils ; in others, the pistils are matured before the stamens; while in yet a third set, stamens and pistils are simultaneously perfected. These three groups of plants are termed respectively protandrous, protogynous, and cynacmic, and a very little observation will show that examples of each are sufiiciently common. Then in dicocioua and monoecious plants, both male and female flowers must be col. lected, and in some cases, as in the Willows, four specimens are necessary to the complete presentment of the species, showing respectively the male and female catkins, the leaves and the frait. Some plants produce two distinct forma of blossom, as is noticeable in the Yiolets and the Wood-sorrel, one being conspicuous and usually barren, the other insignificant and often apetalous, but producing perfect fruit. The pollen will afford occupation to the microscopist ; the researches of Mr. Gulliver and Mr. Charles Bailey have demon. Btrated that important distinguishing characters are in some instances fnrnished by it. While on this point it may be suggested that it is convenient in many cases to collect several specimens of the flowers alone, which, when dried, should bo placed in a small envelope or capsule, and attached to the sheet on which the plant is represented. In the event of any examination which may be requisite after the plant is dried, these detached blossoms will be found very nsefnl, and will prevent the necessity of damaging the specimen. In the case of such plants as shed their corollas very readily, as the Speed, wells, it is as well to put them in press as soon as collected ; and the coloar of many may be retained by the same means. The fruits and Feeds of plants are too generally neglected by amateur collectors, but are essential to the completeness of a specimen. It may be found practically convenient to keep these in a separate place, and detached from the plant; and in many cases of dried fruits it is advisable to sort them into their places without previous pressing. By this means the modes of dehiscence will readily be seen : pulpy and succulent fruits should be preserved in spirit. In such plants as the species of Sea Sandwort (Lepigonum), and some Chenopodia, important specific characters ai'e drawn from the seed ; as they are from the pods of Melilotus and the fruits of Agrimonia. In col- lecting Ferns, well, fruited fronds must be selected, as it is impossible to determine specimens without fructification. Grasses should bo selected when in flower and fruit, but must not bo allowed to attain too great an age before they are collected. We have been speaking so far of the things to be collected, and space will not allow ns to dilate at any length npon tho apparatus necessary to that end. Kor indeed is this necessai-y ; a good -si zed vasculnm, with one or two smaller boxes for the pocket, in which the more delicate plants maybe preserved; a strong pocket-knife or small trowel, tor procuring roots, and a hooked stick wherewith to fish ont water-plants, or pull down branches, are the principal things required. To any one residing any length of time, or even only for a few days, in a district, a "London Catalogue" is an important acquisition, in which should be marked off all the species met with ; by this means the flora of the neighbourhood is ascertained at a very slight expenditure of time and trouble. It is not advisable to collect too many plants at once, or to crowd the vasculnm, unless under exceptional circumstances ; nor should the desire to possess rare plants tend, as is too often the case, to the neglect and exclusion of commoner ones. A careful and observant collector will frequently meet with forms which deviate more or less from the accepted type of a species. When these appear to offer any marked characters, they should be noted ; and in all cases it is well to preserve any forms which, from external circumstances, have a different appear- ance from the normal state. The differences produced by soil and situation alone are very considerable ; and though the essential characters are usually to be discerned, tho interest and value of a herbarium are very much increased by a selection of examples showing the range of a species. Campanula glomerata offers a good example of this. In damp meadows it is from 1 ft. to 2 ft. high, with a large, spreading, terminal head of blossoms, while on chalk downs it does not attain more than as many inches, with only one or two flowers ; in this state it was described by Withering as a Gentian, under the name of Gentiana collina ; and the same author gives as Campanula uniflora a one-fiowered mountain state of the Hairbell (C. rotundifolia). First of all, we must make all necessary preparation for Mounting, the first essential to which is paper. Much of the neatness of a herbarium depends upon its uniformity, so that it is desirable to lay down a definite plan at the beginning and to act up to it consistently. Amateurs often spoil specimens which they have collected and preserved with considerable care by transferring them from one slieet to another ; from books — but it is only very amat«nr botanists who keep their plants in this way ! — to loose sheets, from small paper to large, and so on ; each change being attended with some slight damage to the specimen so treated. It is, I believe, the common practice on the Continent to keep tho specimens loose in folded sheets of paper ; but this plan is not followed in England, and although advantageous, as permitting the fullest examination of the plant, it is attended with much risk to the specimens in tho way of breakage ; so that we may consider it settled that we are going to fasten our plant to a sheet of paper. This must be rather stout, and large enough to admit the full representation of the species. The sheets used at the Kew Herbarium are 16^ in. long by lOJ in. wide ; those employed at the British Museum are 17J in. by llj in. ; but the former will be found amply sufiioient for our purpose. The next consideration is the means by which the specimens are to be secured, which are more various than might at first be supposed. Some persons sew them to the paper ; others place straps over them, which are secured with small pins j but the choice practically lies between fixing the whole specimen to the paper with gum, paste, or glne, or securing it with straps of gummed paper. The former plan, which is that adopted at our great public herbaria, is certainly better for specimens which are likely to be much consulted ; but the latter is in some respects more satisfactory, if somewhat tedious, as it admits the removal of the plant to another sheet if necessary, and delicate portions, such aa thin petals or leaves, are not injured as they are when gummed down. At the British Museum and Kew a mixture of Gum Tragacanlh and Gum Arabic (the former dissolved in the latter), in about equal parts, is used for this purpose ; but very coriaceous specimens are secured with glue at the last-named establishment while in the former the stems and ends of branches are usually also secured with straps. When the specimen is entirely gummed down it is a good plan to keep a few extra flowers or fruits in a small July IS, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 61 capsule attached to the sheet ; these will be usef nl if it be required to dissect such portions, and the specimen need not be injared for such purpose. Poisoning'. — Some persons are in the habit ot applying a solution of corrosive sublimate for the purpose of washing over their plants when mounted, and so preventing the development of animal life. The solution in use at the Kew Herbarium is composed of one pound of corrosive sublimate, and the same quantity of carbolic acid to four gallons of methylated spirit ; this fulfils the purpose for which it is intended very well, but is somewhat disagreeable to use. At the British Museum it is found that the presence of camphor, frequently renewed in each cabinet, is sufficient to prevent the attacks of insects. It will soon be discovered that some plants, such, for example, as the TJmbelliferse and Grossnlariaceas, are peculiarly liable to such attacks j and these orders must be inspected from time to time, so that any insect ravages may at once be checked. Damp is to be avoided in the situation of the herbarium, as it favours the development not only of insects but of mould, and renders the speci- mens rotten. The question of labelling is of some importance, especially to those who value neatness and ■uniformity in the appearance of their herbarium. One or two seta of printed labels for this purpose have been issued, but they cannot be recommended. They give more than is necessary, e.g., the English, or more correctly, the book-English names, the general habitats, and definite localities of rare species, and allow very insufficient space for filling in the date and place of collecting, the name of the collector, and such remarks as occasion, ally occur. The plan of writing all necessary information npon the sheet itself is a good one. Care should be taken to avoid the possibility ot a misplacement of labels ; many serious blunders have arisen from the neglect of due precaution in this matter. Arrangement. — The plants, being now affixed to their respec tive sheets and duly labelled, are ready to be placed in covers, and rendered available for ready reference. Each genus will require a separate cover, which may well be of somewhat stouter paper than that on which the plants are mounted ; the name of the genus should be written at the left-hand corner, followed by a reference to the page of the manual by which the plants are arranged, or to the number which it bears in the " London Catalogue," if that be employed in their arrangement — a purpose for which it is very suitable. Should the species be represented by more than one sheet, it is convenient to inclose each in a cover of thinner paper, which may bear the number assigned to the plant in the right-hand corner ; and it is also convenient to write the name of the plant at the bottom of each sheet, and to number it also in the right-hand corner. These details may appear trivial, but they in reality affect in no small degree the readiness with which any species may be referred to. Should the plants be arranged in accordance with the " London Catalogue," a copy should be kept with the herbarium, in which the plants should be ticked off, so that it may serve as a catalogue of the species represented. Cabinets. — It will of course be necessary to provide some accom. modation for our specimens, and for this purpose we shall find no better model than the cabinets in use in the Botanical Department of the British Museum. The measurements can of course be modified so as to suit the size of the herbarium sheets. Each shelf is a separate drawer, which with its contents can be taken out and replaced at will. At Kew the cabinets employed are somewhat similar, but their height is greater and the shelves are fixed. It is possible that I may have omitted to touch upon certain details which may occur to the amateur ; should such be the case, I may add that I shall be happy to supply any additional information, either by letter or by word of mouth ; or to show the system adopted at the British Museum to any one who may call upon me there for further hints npon this subject. We have only to add that this little book is beautifully printed — a rare feature in such works. It is a most useful book to all students of natural history. A " Eed Rose " Rental.— I was surpriaed the other day to find a custom nearly " as old as the hills " not yet died out. In the quit-rent roll of a lord of the manor in one of our South Midland counties, a tenant appears as holding certain lands at a yearly rental of " a red Rose " and suit and service, and at a 1 ecent conrt-leet tor the said manor, the tenant attended personally and handed to the Bteward of the manor a handsome bush or branch containing seven full- blown Roses, in payment of the claim sent in by the steward, viz., one year's rent, one red Rose ; arrears six years, six red Roses ; total, seven red Roses : for which a formal receipt was duly filled up, signed, and handed to the tenant, who then retired amid the smiles of the jurymen and attendants.— T.G. A. THE FRUIT GARDEN. MORE "WATER FOR FRUIT TREES. Tuis is a matter which requires more attention than it generally receives. Figs, Vinos, dwarf Peaches, and Plums, and other fruit trees grown in pots and otherwise, all want abundant waterings during their season of growth. My pot Vines, after they are fairly in leaf, are watered every day, though the pots are plunged, and sometimes twice a day in dry weather. Not long ago I finished cutting a heavy crop of excellent fruit from a house of these, and up to the time when the last bunch was cut the water was poured on to the soil through a wide-spouted can in floods. The drainage is ample, and I never allow the surface to become dry. My young pot Vines, struck from eyes in spring, receive the same treatment. Shutting up with a steaming atmosphere is avoided, as a certain cause of warty leaves, but at the root the water is supplied unstintingly. Some of my Figs, large bushes in large pots, which are packed with their roots, receive each five or six gallons daily, and would take more sometimes if I had time to give it to them. They have ripened their first crops of fruit, and are heavily laden with the second, and their ability to carry all through successfully will depend almost wholly on the liberal use of the watering-pot. It is not from want of liquid, manure that many plants appear starved, but from want of water simply and nothing more. The amount of feeding material contained in a pot of good soil is almost or quite sufficient for a plant without any additional stimulant, provided it is diluted judiciously and enough. In the matter of Vine borders, for example, the most important and real lesson which has been learned of late years is that we can hardly over.water them, if they are ordinarily well drained. Aerated and heated borders seem to have come to be regarded, even by their advocates, as needless extravagances, far more dangerous then useful; water in more than sufficient quantity at the roots of the Vines is now recognised as a chief agent in the protection of good Grapes ; and results have proved that this recognition is correct. So it is with Peaches and other stone fruits grown under glass. The amount of moisture a large and healthy Peach tree will imbibe in a day is enormous. The tree may be compared to a sheet of moist blotting-paper exposed to the sun ; it would dry completely in an hour or so. What, then, must bo the amount of evaporation from a Peach tree placed against a warm wall covered with glass ? In the case of a hard and well-drained border, and a healthy tree thinly trained and protected with glass, I believe it ishardlypossible to over-do the watering during the summer season. It may be asserted that the best resalts have not yet been attained, even in Peach culture. It has been shown beyond a doubt that the grossest Peach shoots can be perfectly matured in this country with artificial aid, and it has still to be proved what can be accomplished by the extension system of training and liberal feeding and watering such as the Vine has been subjected to. Take the Strawberry again : it does not like being treated like an aquatic, as pot plants some, times are ; but a well-drained Strawberry quarter should be deluged with water throughout the summer season, and also mulched, whether we have regard to present or future crops. A droughty June and July ill suits the Strawberry, and liberal waterings alone, under such circumstances, will nearly double the weight of crop, I have, as a rule, always light crops of Strawberries when I have a light hay crop, and both are due to the same causes — want of sufficient moisture at the root. Chef. A Fruit Diet. — A variety of influences are at work to hasten the adoption of a fruit diet. Prominent among these may be reckoned the high price of meat, the low price of corn, and the reported un. profitableness of growing either. Meat, although so dear to con. Bumers, is said not to pay the producers ; corn, and especially wheat, is likely to yield less profit, as the foreign trade is now fully developed by improved modes of transit, and extended by increasing demand. Amongst the most profitable crops of the future on field or farm, as well as in gardens, is fruit ; the profits of production after the cost is deducted are said to be far larger than for either corn or meat. The last may be doubted, but the profit on fruit-growing per acre has been variously stated at from £20 to even as ranch as £200. It is certain that it pays well, or the growers could never pay such rents for land as they do in the neighbourhood of London and other large cities. Neither is there the slightest danger of any excessive supply. The taste for fruit as an article of diet has hardly yet been excited in this country ; let that once be aroused to any general extent, and there is hardly any limit to the consumption of such a nation as England. Instead of an occasional Apple or Pear now and then as a luxury, which is all that myriads of our population get now, there ought to be no reason — in the nature ot the commodity, its 62 THE GARDEN. [JULT 18, 1876. neefnlnesB or price — why the working man of the fatnre should not bay in his Apples, and Pears, and Plums hy the peck, bushel, or sack, as he does his Potatoes now. Even on the ground of nutritive matters good fruits rank high, while as a pleasant change and sub- stitution for other foods they would prove most wholesome and satisfying. A fruit diet is quite a different thing from a quantity of fruit eaten before or after a full meal composed of the usual hetero. geneous mixture. Nothing is more likely than that fruit so consumed should prove injurious, while used as an article of diet it might be most wholesome. Throughout France, and nearly the whole of Southern Europe, Africa, and Asia, fruit enters largely into the daily food of the people. We do not require — perhaps our climate and temperature might not allow us — to go to such great lengths as this in regard to a fruit diet. One meal a day of fruit would give an immense impetus to fruit cultivation, and, in a proportionate ratio, lower the price of meat, and still further depress the price of corn. By this reflex action on the price of other commodities, fruit culti- vation would be still further stimulated and its area extended, for the lower the price of other foods relatively to fruit, the better would fruit culture pay, and as the cost of producing fruit is probably less than that of any other food, profits would bear a much larger pro- portion to prices than in the manufacture of meat or the growing of corn. The subject is therefore one deserving the serious attention of farmers as well as gardeners, as it is almost certain that the fruit farming of the fatnre will prove a profitable and pleasant branch of agriculture. — D. T. Fish. Grapes "blind" — a Caution. — Allow rae to record a partial failure in Vine culture by way of caution to others. Being strongly impressed with the importance of ailording Vines in active growth atmospheric ammonia, I this year kept up a supply of it in all our Vineries by means of litter taken fresh from the stables ; this was spread a few inches thick over the floors and borders, and renewed at intervals of a week or ten days, and thoughtlessly the work of renewal was carried on in one of the houses just as the Vines (Lady Downes) were coming into flower. The consequence was that many of the bunches, especially those most directly in contact with the vapour, have failed to set a single berry, but those that were partly or entirely protected by the foliage have set as usual, thus preventing what otherwise might have been a complete failure. — W. H. Orchards of Pomegranates. — At Narli Kapon (Pomegranate Gate), near the Seven Towers of Stamboul, the railway passes through several Pomegranate orchards, which from the end of July to the beginning of October form a series of pictures which the most enthusiastic lover of colour would gloat over. First, we have the exquisite red blossoms peeping out here and there from amongst the fresh, yellow-green leaves, and looking like sparks of fire, and increas- ing in number until at last you can scarcely see the leaves for them ; then the little round olive-green balls just beginning to form grow- ing larger and ruddier until they almost rival the blossoms in colour. Like the Orange the Pomegranate continues to flower, even after the first fruit has ripened, so that you may have the unopened flower buds and the bursting fruit side by side on the same branch. The Greek and American women are very fond of wearing Pomegranate blossoms on their blue-black hair. The Persian word for Pomegranate — nar — also means fire, and Qulnar, a favourite Persian name used by Byron, means Pomegranate blossom. — C. W. QuiN. Vine-leaf Excrescences. — In March last I planted a Vinery with one-year-old canes in a border composed of turf, lime-mbbish, and i-in. bones. They started well, but soon began to show signs of something being wrong with them. In May I pulled out the worst of them, and re-planted with canes from eyes started in February. Still finding that they did not thrive, I have to-day uprooted the whole, and have forwarded you specimens for inspection ; also of a grub and wire-worm, with which the soil is infested. The Ijorder has been looked over for wire-worm every morning for some time past, and every one visible has been removed. I also planted another house in May with started vines (one-year-old canes) in a border of the same compost. These are doing well, with the exception of the principal leaves on the stem below the laterals, which scale and drop oft in a manner for which I cannot account. Your opinion on the subject will be considered a favour. — G.F., Tunhrichjc. [The damage in this case does not seem to be due to insects. It certainly does not proceed from either of the larvso of which specimens were sent. The one is the wire-worm, the other (larger and soft-bodied grab) is the larva of the cockchafer in its younger stage. Neither can we find any symptoms of Phylloxera. Not a specimen was to be found, bnt they desert the plant so soon after it is taken up (except when torpid in winter), that that in itself is no sufficient argument of its having been present. But neither on the roots were there any of the oharac- teristio excrescences caused by it, nor on the leaf were there any remains of it, It is true that on the backs of the leaves below the laterals (to which our correspondent alludes), there is a sort of green scurf, but it is wholly different from the excrescences on the leaves caused by the Phylloxera. Vine-growers are familiar with this growth, and we believe that it is merely a sort of hypertrophy or over-growth caused by over-feeding, too damp an atmosphere, and insnfiicient ventilation. Suoh excrescences, however, do little or no harm. — A. M.] A Neglected Hardy Fruit. — It is only of late years that the Currant has received the attention from fruit growers that its quality and character justly deserve as a table or dessert fruit. A few ne- glected bushes of the old Eed Dutch hid away in the garden, yielded from year to year the scanty supply for making jelly, and occasionally table use. Since the more general introduction of the Cherry, La Versaillaise, and White Grape Currants, the culture and treatment of this fruit have been noticeably improved in every direction. The self-same old Red Dutch, under high culture and annual prunings, yields large crops of superior quality of fruit, in fact, equals, in point of profit, any of the newer and larger sorts. It will be found a saving of time and expense to practise summer pruning with the Currant. A large part of the young shoots may be pulled out of the older bushes early in July while the wood is succulent and soft, and those to remain may be shortened in by pinching with the thumb and finger. A bearing bush should be kept open and spreading ; when this surplus young wood is removed in July, the bearing parts are strengthened, and more and larger fruit is produced on the same surface the following year.- — P. T. Quix. Apples with.out Blossoms. — Some Apples were sent to us (" American Agriculturist ") last fall from Maryland, from a tree which is rather famous in the region thereabout for bearing fruit year after year. We requested ~the owner to go to the tree at the proper season and gather for us some of the blossoms, being assured that blossoms would be found without petals, and consequently making no show. The blossoms have now been sent to us, and we found them to be green. We had known cases of the sort before, in Massachusetts and elsewhere, and the blossoms were just such as we expected. They have no petals, and so make no show ; they have not even a stamen. In place of the petals there are sometimes, but not in all the flowers, some green scales, like calyx-lobes. So the petals have turned to sepals, or else disappeared. In place of stamens there are a dozen or two of pistils ; so the stamens have turned into pistils. In the centre there are the ordinary five combined pistils, nearly in their natural state. As the Apples of last year ripened some seeds, though not many, these pistils must have had pollen brought them from neighbouring trees, either by bees or by the wind. The only thing peculiar in the Apples was that they had a two-story or even three-story core. This is explained by the flowers, with their supernumerary pistils. The proper core at the bottom comes from the five regular pistils ; the cores above this come from those over them, which should have been stamens, but have by some unaccountable freak changed their sex. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FEUIT QAEDEN. Venns' Black Muscat Grape.— This appears to be a free bearer and also an early Grapo. On Vines raised from eyes and planted out at the end of May last year, there arc Rcveral good Imnches which are already colouring: ; it is a true Muscat, both in habit of growth and appearance of bunch and berry. I trust it may justify the high character which it has received as to flavour. — W. W. H. Grafting Gooseberries and Currants.— M. Ch. rohl, an Austrian, has a collection of Gooseberries and Currants, grafted on tho stem of our wild Mis- souri Currant, at tho Philadelphia Exhibition. This, according to the " Gar- deners' Monthly," is a strong sort, growing 4 ft. or 6 ft. high. [Wo should like to hoar of tho advantages of M. Pohl's method, if there be any.] Strawberry Dr. Hogg.— At tho Finchley Horticullnrnl Society's Exhibition which took place tho other day. Mr. W. Wakefield, gardener to Mrs. Orawshay, Colncy Hatch, sliowcd a oish of this Strawberry, thirlcou fruits of which weighed 1 lb., and thoy wore of excellent tiuality.— S. Mildew I on Grapes.- 1 have noticed this season that the Tines most affected with Mildew wore those nearest doors communicating with tho open air, whilst in those houses that wore accessible othei'wiso than from tho open air were not afTtctod in tho least. — S. The New " Classification" of Apples,- The great obstacle to any satis- factory classifieation of fruits is in tho fact that tho objects thorosolvcs are so variable. Through long caltivation fruits arein an unnatural condition, and all their parts are enlarged and exaggerated, and the characters which would bo of value in the wild fruit cannot, in these, be regarded as permanent. Every one who has much to do with fruits would heartily welcome any fairly accurate classification, and we regret that the hope excited, when it was announced that Dr. Hogg would pubUsh ono, is, in the opinion of tho " American Agricultu- rist," not borne out by an examination of the system itself. Jtjlt 15, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 63 THE INDOOR GARDEN. COOHLIOSTBMA JACOBIANA. In this valuable introduction from Ecuador we have not only a plane ol distinct and stately appearance, but also one which possesses remarkable beauty. It resembles a Bromeliad with a very short stem. Its leaves grow to a length of from 3 ft. to 4 ft., and they are 7 in. broad at the widest part. They are arranged somewhat closely in a tuft-like form, springing from the short stem, which gives the plant the appearance of a huge Tillandsia. They are spreading, slightly recurved, and of a somewhat pale green colour, their appearance being much en- hanced by the beauty of the flowers, which are produced freely from their axils. A strong specimen will continue blooming more or less for three or four months in succession. The flowers may be described as bluish-violet, and are borne upon stout, smooth, pink stalks from 12 in. to 18 in. in length, and as thick as a person's finger. These are furnished with pale pink bracts from 3 in. to 4 in. long by 2 in. in breadth, whicb, contrasted with the flowers, produce a charming effect, alto- gether different from anything else. It usually commences blooming in spring, the particular time of course being in- fluenced by the condition of the plant, and the temperature in which it is grown. In addition to its fine ap- pearance, it possesses the good properties of not being difiicult to manage, and it can be placed in a conservatory when in bloom during the sum- mer months, without sus- taining injury therefrom, when care is taken not to allow it to stand in a draught, or too near where air is admitted ; at the same time with this, as with most other stove subjects, under such conditions it does not make much growth, and consequently must not receive too much water, for although it delights in plenty of moisture when in active growth, in a moderately high temperature, when there is little root de- velopment going on, a too wet condition of the soil is calculated to endanger its health. For a considerable time after its introduction, its high price, owing to the difficulty with which it is increased, kept many from growing it, but now that it is cheaper it ought to find a place in even the most choice collections. It has an agreeable, but not over-powerful pei'fume. It may be propagated by means of suckers, which are produced near the base of the plants; these, when sufficiently strong, may be taken off in the spring, stripping off a few of the under-leaves, and placed singly in pots propor- tionate to their size. In soil consisting of half sand and loam, they will soon root in a temperature of 70° kept moderately, but not too close ; when sufficiently rooted, the young plants should be gradually exposed to the full air of the house, giving them plenty of light, but not direct sunshine. They should, however, by no means be shaded too much by other plants, for, if so, they will never make enough roots to support a vigorous head of leaves, without which the plant cannot be seen in ''ts best condition. When the pots are moderately filled with roots, shift into other pots 7 in. or 8 in. in diameter. They will succeed in a mixture of two-thirds good, yellow, turfy loam, and one of fibrous peat, to which a liberal admix- ture of sand, broken crocks, or charcoal should be added, and a little chopped Sphagnum ; drain the pots well ; if filled with crocks to one-fifth of their depth it will Plant of Cochliostema in flower. not be too much, as, in common with other subjects of a kindred nature, they cannot bear stagnant moisture in the soil. The temperature during summer may be kept at 70° at night, giving air when it rises by sun-heat to 80°, and closing in the afternoons whilst the sun is upon the glass, sprinkling water overhead at the same time with the syringe. As autumn advances give more air and less shade, discontinue syringing, and reduce the temperature, keeping it during the winter at about 60° at night, and 5° higher durmg the day, giving considerably less water to the soil ; increase the heat 5° at the beginning of March, and when growth has fairly commenced, shift the plants into pots 4 in. larger than those they now occupy, using soil in a more lumpy state than before. In repotting do not disturb the roots more than can be avoided, merely removing the drainage material from the bottom of the balls. As the weather gets warmer raise the temperature at night to 70°, with a proportionate increase by day, air and shade being attended to as required, and a^ain syringing overhead when the house is closed in the after- noons, tinder such conditions the plants will grow apace and when the roots have got a good hold of the soil, they must be liberally supplied with water. Most probably a few spikes of flowers will make their appearance this season, but these are of secondary importance, as the aim of the cultivator should be to grow the plants to as large a size as possible during the .summer ; n o attempt should therefore be made to move them from the stove when in bloom during the present sea- son. About July they should have another shift, this time putting them in 16-in. or 16-in. pots, with, as before, plenty of drainage, and similar soil ; give less water for two or three weeks, until the roots begin to penetrate the new material, after which treat them in every way as in the early part of the summer. As autumn advances again reduce the temperature, and dispense, as before, with the use of the syringe and shading ; also maintain a drier condition of the atmosphere, wintering them as has been previously done. In spring again increase the tempera- ture, and give additional water, with shade, as required. If all have gone well, and the plants have made the progress which they ought to have done, they will begin to push up their flower-spikes about the beginning of May, producing from a dozen to a dozen and a half at or near the same time. It will be better not to move them to cooler quarters until Mid- summer, as whilst the spring growth is somewhat tender, and the nights cold, they would be liable to suffer in a way of which there will be no danger later on in the season ; the successional flowers which they will produce will render them an acceptable addition to the conservatory, where they may remain up to the end of August, placing them again in the stove before the weather gets cool. Winter them as hitherto ; and in the spring, before growth has commenced, turn them out of their pots, and work away as much of the soil from the upper portion of the ball as can be done without injuring the roots to any extent ; regulate the drainage, and add new soil, putting' the plants back into the same pots out of which they were turned, unless there is a desire to grow them on to a very large size, in which case they may be shifted into a pot 2 in. larger. Treat them during the summer as in the preceding one ; but this season give them a little weak, clear manure- water once a week ; this will compensate for the less addi- 61 THE GARDEN. [JnLT 15, 1876. tional root-room which they have received. Their autumn and wialer management should be the same as before, in spring removing some of the old soil, and putting fresh material in its place, again assisting tbem ■with manure-water. When suckers are made they should, as they get large enough, be removed and struck as .already recommended ; these will take the place of the older plants when they get shabby in appear- ance. The character of the leaves of these plants and the continuous use of the syringe during the growing season keep down as a rule the smaller kinds of insects that affect the occupants of the stove; but, if scale make its appearance upon them, it is easily removed by sponging, and mealy bug can be washed off by syringing with tepid water. Of the general appearance of the plant some idea may be formed from the annexed illustration. T. Baines. "WATBEING PLANTS IK POTS. "Watering, I need scarcely say, constitutes a very important part of plant culture. As a general rule, all stove and green- house plants of free growth want a constant and steady supply of moisture at the roots during the growing season. The soil should neither be soured nor rendered sodden through repeated waterings that are not required, nor through defec- tive drainage — a fertile source of mischief in this respect— nor should it ever be oven moderately dry. This, however, is just the difficulty. A plant should never be allowed to suSer in the least from want of water, for it meaus starvation and worse ; and yet it should not be over-watered. The beneficial effects of plunging plants in pots in soil, ashes. Cocoa-nut fibre, &G., are wholly the result of an equable degree of moisture and temperature at the roots ; in watering, therefore, these conditions must be imitated as far as possible. The first essential is to drain the pot well, and the next is to leave room on the surface for it to hold water sufficient to soak the ball thoroughly. The practice of filling the pots too full of soil in potting cannot be too severely condemned, and yet it is all but universal. The consequence is that, when the plants have to be watered, nothing like the nscessary quantity can be given them at once, and there is all the trouble of going over them again, perhaps two or three times, until each is thoroughly soaked. But what follows if the plants have only been served with a dribblet each ? By midday tbey are pro- bably flagging, and if they happen to be noticed, a quantity of water is fetched from the nearest tank and dashed in among them immediately, as a temporary supply; and thus the practice goes on, entailing the most disastrous results. The time to water is early in the morning, or in the evening when the heat of the day is over, and always when the ventila- tion is reduced to its minimum. Water should never be given when evaporation is going on rapidly, particularly in green- houses and conservatories, where the plants are usually placed on dry, airy shelves and stages, and exposed to draught on all sides. Some plants are more impatient of neglect in watering than others. Among these is the Heath, which, always being potted in peat well rammed into the pot, requires considerable attention in this respect. Heaths should always be watered before they get dry. Plants that have been shifted on from one sized pot to another are very apt to get dry in the centre of the ball ; and when this occurs no amount of watering will soak it — the water simply runs past it, and in the end the plant gets sickly and dies. At one time, when I had a large collection of Cape Heaths under my charge, I found that parched balls was an evil constantly to be guarded against. Pushing a small stake down the centre of the ball usually revealed the state of affairs ; and if the ball were found to be dry, steeping ic in a tub of water for a day or more, or until the bubbles of air ceased to i-ise to the surface, was the best remedy. The stake test is not to be recommended, however, unless drought is suspected, for it injures the roots in its passage through the soil. The Camellia is another subject often ruined through careless watering. Planted out, it grows like a Laurel bush ; but in pots or tubs unhealthy, scraggy speciniens, that drop their buds just before they should expand, are too common. The Camellia is an uncommonly close andabundant rooter ; the roots permeate the soil thickly in every direction, the ball near the stem being generally a complete mass of fibres, which drink up an inconceivable quantity of water; audit this be not supplied regularly, the soil gets dust-dry, and then, as with the Heath, steeping is the only alternative. Tears ago, I had occasion to re-tub a large number of Camellias. They had been top-dressed frequently, but had not been shifted for a number of years, and many of the larger plants were in an unsatisfactory condition, not having made such growth annually as might have been expected. The shifting explained matters, however, for nearly all were dry in the centre of the balls. It was suspected that the plants had suffered a year or two befoi-e from too little watering, and copious supplies had been given them at inter- vals since that time, but, as it now appeared, without effect. After removing the outer soil and top-dressings, which did not contain many roots, the balls were found to be dry, matted, and so hard that it required a good dig with a stout Oak peg to make any impression on them. They were all steeped for four-and-twenty hours in the water-tanks, and afterwards repotted, many of them going into less tubs or pots than those from which they were shifted. Plenty ot room was left for water, and a kind of basin was formed round the necks of the plants, to insure its passage through the ball, instead of down between the sides of the pot and the soil — a channel through which the water too frequently finds its way in pot-bound plants. Even in the case of Camellias planted out in a bed after having been grown in pots for a time, it is advisable to guard against the balls becoming dry. I have seen plants lifted which were just as bad in this respect as if they had been in a pot. When they are planted out younc, and the roots are allowed to extend freely, there is little or no danger. Among other susceptible subjects in the matter ot watering are Cinerarias and Calceolarias ; neither can bear drought at the root without injury. They will either go back, and perhaps go off altogether, or they will be attacked by aphides, and there are no plants so difficult to fumigate effectively as those just named — in fact, I never care to subject them to Tobacco-smoke if it can be avoided. Both enjoy light and sunshine, but a cool bottom of flag or sand they must have; also good drainage and copious waterings. Under these conditions they are rarely troubled with insects, and the plants grow freely. Among stove plants. Ferns are perhaps the most sensitive. They like, and must have, a steady supply ot water at the roots, and they enjoy a position above a water- tank where the evaporation is constant, but they do not like immersing in the water, even to the extent of an inch in the pot. In an aquatic house this was tried with Ferns and Caladiums, but neither throve so well as judiciously- watered plants grown in the shade. C. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE INDOOR GARDEN. ■ Ixora regina. — A fine specimen of this new variety of Ixora has recently been heavily laden with rich, salmon-coloured flowers in Mr. Ball's nursery at Chelsea. It resembles the well-known I. coccinea, but bears larger trusses of flowers and is more bushy and compact than either I. WiUiamsi or I. coccinea. It ia evidently an abundant bloomer. — S. Fratia repens (Lobelia ilicifolia).— This is now covered with its pretty little white flowers. It has stood all the winter in a pot placed in a pan of water on a shelf of a cool greenhouse much exposed to the sun. Another plant, which has stood all the winter in a cool frame, looks almost as healthy, but o£ course will not flower till later.— II. H. Cabwb. Drayton-Beauchamp £«ctori/, Tring, Prenanthes (Sonchua) elegantissima.— This useful addition to slender- gn"owing decorative plants recently introduced by Messrs. K. G. Henderson, and of which you have piven an illustration (see p. 679, vol, viii.), is well worth attention. It has a gracofuUy-droopinK pyramidal habit, remindintf one of a fine green spray of Aspara^fiia. When better known, ic will doubtless bo highly appreciated for dinner-table decoration;— S. Hiniature Pot Boses. — At tho Richmond Flower Show, which took place on the 29th ult., Messrs. Voitch & Sons staged an interesting collection of small Roses in pots, consisting of about 100 plants, each bearing from three to sir fully expanded blooms. These were placed in a semi-circular form upon tho Grass, backed up by flne-foliaged plants, and edged with boxes of cut flowers, tho ctToct of which arrangement was most pleasing and one which elicited the warmest admiration from the viaitors.— D, The Prairie Rose.— This Rose is very highly spoken of as a stock for Roses in American papers. I should be glad if some American reader of Tna GifiDBH would tell us about tho Frairio Rose, its charaoteri name, &c. JuiT 15, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 65 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. KITCHEN GARDEN WALKS AND EDGINGS. In some recent remarks wHoh I made on this subject I laid some stress on the necessity of keeping both walks and edgings in kitchen gardens in perfect order, and this has called forth "strong expressions of disapproval from the editors of both TnE Garden and " The Gardener." I maintain, however, that the labour needed for such work is well bestowed, not only as regards improved appearance, but also as respects the facility with which the various operations connected with cultivation can be carried on in all weathers, owing to the ready means of access which good walks afford. I do not consider the ordinary routine of field cultivation, as practised in most large establishments, " in addition to that carried on in the kitchen garden," any improvement on garden culture strictly so called, or likely to lead to the end which I advo- cated, viz., the rendering of kitchen gardening more popular with young gardeners. "The Gardener" (see p. 29), not only condemns walks and edgings as useless appendages to a kitchen garden, but overstates the case by laying one-half of the debtor account to their charge. But how stands this matter in places where there is no surplus labour to bestow on unnecessary work, and where a pretty correct debtor and creditor account of everything has to be kept ? Every one is aware that ornamental gardening and filling houses, pits, and borders, with bedding plants, to the exclusion of the attention that ought to be paid to fruits and vegetables, are far heavier on the creditor account than the keeping of walks and edgings in proper order. If a strict debtor and creditor account of the labour expended on fruits and vegetables alone were possible, I would guarantee a considerable balance en the creditor side ; but to expect a garden to be remunerative when three-fourths of the labour are expended on ornamental gardening, is simply absurd. The kitchen garden, as all of us know, yields in importance to no branch of the gardener's art, and to reduce it to the level of a Potato plot or Cabbage field, would be an event to be deplored, as it ranks low enough now in the estimation of young gardeners. Keeping its borders gay with flowers is unnecessary ; on the contrary, its legitimate occupants should at all seasons render it sufficiently attractive for both the owner and his friends to find a pleasure in inspecting it. As regards alleys between the crops as a substitute for walks, most gardeners who have passed a winter in nursery grounds will be able to form a correct notion as to which is preferable or most profitable, and although, as " The Gardener " states, a good many will come to the conclu- sion that walks and edgings are unnecessary, I question whether there are not a much greater number who would gladly convert their alleys into good walks if the labour at their command enabled them to do so ; as a really good walk, once properly made, can be kept in good condition with a minimum of labour, compared with mere tracks, which are neither satisfactory to the owners, nor creditable to those in charge of them. Jambs Gkoom. Henham, DAEWIN ON THE OBIGIN OF THE PEA. (PISUM sativitm). Most botanists look at the garden Pea as specifically distinct from the field Pea (P. arvense). The latter exists in a wild state in Southern Earope ; but the aboriginal parent of the garden Pea has been found by one collector alone, as he states, in the Crimea. Andrew Knight oroased, as I am informed by the Bav. A. Fitch, the field Pea with a well-known garden variety, the Prussian Pea, and the cross seems to have been perfectly fertile. Dr. Alefeld has recently stndied the genus with care, and, after having cultivated about fifty varieties, conclndea that certainly they all belong to the same species. It is an interesting fact already alluded to, that, according to 0. Heer, the Peas fonnd in the lake-habitations of Switzerland of the Stone and Bronze ages, belong to an extinct variety, with exceedingly small seeds, allied to P. arvense or the field Pea. The varieties of the common garden Pea are numerous, and differ considerably from one another. For comparison, I planted at the same time forty-one English and French varieties. They differed greatly in height — namely from between 6 in. and 12 in. to 8 ft. — in manner of growth, and in period of matnrity. Some differ in general aspect even while only 2 in. or 3 in. in height. The stems of the Prussian Pea are much branched. The tall kinds have larger leaves than the dwarf kinds, but not in strict proportion to their height: — Hair's Dwarf Monmouth has very large leaves, and the Poia Naiu Hatif and the moderately-tall Blue Prussian have leaves about two-thirds of the size of the smallest kind. In the Danecroft the leaQeta are rather small and a little pointed ; in the Queen of Dwarfs, rather rounded j and in the Queen of England, broad and large. In these three Peas the slight differences in the shape of the leaves are accompanied by slight differences in colour. In the Pois Geant sans Parchemin, which bears purple flowers, the leaflets in the young plant are edged with red, and in all the Peas with purple flowers the stipules are marked with red. In the different varieties, one, two, or several flowers in a small cluster are borne on the same peduncle ; and this is a difference which is considered of specific value in some of the leguminoaas. In all the varieties the flowers closely resemble each other, except in colour and size. They are generally white, sometimes purple, bat the colour is inconstant even in the same variety. In Warner's Emperor, which ia a tall kind, the flowers are nearly double the size of the Pois Nain Hatif ; but Hair's Dwarf Monmouth has large leaves, likewise large flowers. The calyx in the Victoria Marrow is large, and in Bishop's Long Pod the sepals are rather narrow. In no other kind is there any difference in the flower. The pods and seeds, which with natural species afford such con. etant characters, differ greatly in the cultivated varieties of the Pea j and these are the valuable and consequently selected parts. Sugar, peas, or Pois sans Parchemin, are remarkable for their thin pods, which, whilst young, are cooked and eaten whole; and in this group, which, according to Mr. Gordon, includes eleven sub-varieties, it is the pod which differs moat; thus Lewis's Negro.podded Pea has a straight, broad, smooth, and dark-purple pod, with the husk not so thin as in the other kinds ; the pod of another variety is extremely bowed ; that of the Pois Geant ia much pointed at the extremity ; and in the variety " A Grands Cosses," the Peas are seen through the husk in so conspicuous a manner that the pod, especially when dry, can hardly at first be recognised as that of a Pea. In the ordinary varieties the pods also differ much in size; in colour that of Wood- ford's Green Marrow being bright green when dry, instead of pale brown, and that of the Purple-podded Pea being expressed by its name ; in smoothness, that of Danecroft being remarkable gloaay, whereaa that of the Ne Plus Ultra is rugged, in being either nearly Cylindrical or broad and flat ; in being pointed at the end, as ia Thurston's Eelianco, or much truncated, as in the American Dwarf. In the Auvergne Pea the whole end of the Pea is bowed upwards. In the Queen of the Dwarfs and in Scimitar Peas, the pod is almost elliptic in shape. In the Pea itself we have every tint between almost pure white, brown, yellow, and intense green ; in the varieties of the sugar Peas we have these same tints, together with red passing through fine pm-ple into a dark chocolate tint. These colours are either uniform or distributed in dots, striae, or Moss-like marks ; they depend in some cases on the colour of the cotyledons seen through the skin, and in other cases on the outer coats of the Pea itself. In the different varieties the pods contain, according to Mr. Gordon, from eleven or twelve to only four or five Peas. The largest Peas are nearly twice as much in diameter as the smallest ; and the latter are not always borne by the most dwarfed kinds. IPeas differ much in shape, being smooth and spherical, smooth and oblong, nearly oval in the Queen of the Dwarfs, and nearly cubical and crumpled in many of the larger kinds. With respect to the value of the differences between the chief varieties, it cannot be doubted that, if one of the tall Sugar-peas, with purple flowers, thin-skinned pods of an extra, ordinary shape, including large, dark purple Peas, grew wild by the side of the lowly Queen of the Dwarfs, with white flowers, greyish, green, rounded leaves, scimitar-like pods, containing oblong, smooth, pale-coloured Peas, which become mature at a different season ; or by the side of one of the gigantic sorts, like the Champion of England, with leaves of great size, pointed pods, and large, green, crumpled, almost cubical Peas — all three kinds would be ranked as distinct species. Andrew Knight has observed that the varieties of Peas keep very true, because they are not crossed by insects. As far as the fact of keeping true is concerned, I hear from Mr. Masters, of Canterbury, well known as the originator of several new kinds, that certain varieties have remained constant for a considerable time ; for instance. Knight's Blue Dwarf, which came out about the year 1820. But the greatest number of varieties have a singularly short exist. ence ; thus Loudon remarks that " sorts which were highly approved in 1821, are now (in 1833) nowhere to be found ; " and on comparing the lists of 1833 with those of 1855, 1 find that nearly all the varieties have changed, Mr, Masters informs me that the nature of the soil 66 THE GARDEN. [July 15, 1876, oaases some varieties to lose their character. As with other plants, certain varieties can be propagated truly, whilst others show a determined tendency to vary ; thus two Peas differing in shape, one round and the other wrinkled, were found by Mr. Masters within the same pod, but the plants raised from the wrinkled kind always evinced a strong tendency to produce round Peas. Mr. Masters also raised from a plant of another variety fonr distinct sub. varieties, which bore blue and round, white and round, blue and wrinkled, and white and wrinkled Peas ; and although he sowed these four varieties separately during several successive years, each kind always repro- duced all four kinds mixed together. With respect to the varieties not naturally intercrossing, I have ascertained that the Pea, which in this respect differs from some other Leguminosoo, is perfectly fertile without the aid of insects. Yet I have seen humble-bees whilst sucking the nectar depress the keel- petals, and become so thickly dusted with pollen that it could hardly fail to be left on the stigma of the next flower which was visited. Nevertheless, distinct varieties growing closely together rarely cross ; and I have reason to believe that this is due to their stigmas being prematurely fertilised in this country by pollen from the same flower. The horticulturists who raise seed-Peas are thus enabled to plant distinct varieties close together without any bad consequences, and it is certain, as I have myself found, that true seed may be saved daring at least several generations under these oircumstauoes. Mr. Fitch raised, as he informs me, one variety for twenty years, and it always came true, though grown close to other varieties. From the analogy of Kidney Beans I should have expected that varieties thus circumstanced would have occasionally crossed. Whether many of the new varieties which incessantly appear are due to such occa- sional and accidental crosses I do not know. Nor do I know whether the short existence of almost all the numerous varieties is the result of mere change of fashion, or of their having a weak constitution from being the product of long-continued self-fertilisation. It may, however, be noticed that several of Andrew Knight's varieties, which have endured longer than most kinds, were raised towards the close of the last century by arti6cial crosses ; some of them, I believe, were still vigorous in 1860 ; but now, in 1865, a writer, speaking of Knight's four kinds of Marrows, says they have acquired a famous history, but their glory has departed. — " Animals and Plants under Domestication." New Potatoes in. Winter. — M. Tonmiol, President of the Horticultural Society of Limoges, has published his experience of M. Telliez's system of growing New Potatoes in winter. M. Tonmiol, who appears to have been instructed by M. Telliez himself, procured a number of Potatoes of the Margottin variety in the month of April 1875. Having picked out those which appeared most suitable for seed, he laid them on boards in a garret. Towards the end of August he planted them in a bed which had just been occupied by a crop of salad. The eyes had pushed then more than an inch long and a quarter of an inch in diameter. When M. Tonmiol told his gardener to come with him and plant Potatoes, he looked amazed, and it was with some difficulty that his employer succeeded in getting him to comply with his request. Some time after this M. Tonmiol was obliged to be absent for a couple of months, and while he was away the young plants had been somewhat neglected. They were, however, saf. ficiently vigorous, although choked up with weeds. He had the ground well weeded, and told his gardener to lay straw round them ; but he neglected to do so. M. Tourniol was again obliged to absent himself until the beginning of November, and on his return he found that ihe snails and the frost had made an end of his Potato plants, every, thing having withered down to the ground. In no way discouraged, M. Tourniol commenced turning up the apparently barren ground, and, spite of its having been greatly neglected, found beneath it a fair crop of Potatoes varying in size from that of a Walnut to that of a hen's egg. This year M. 'Tourniol intended beginning his planting about June 1, and at fortnightly intervals until the end of September. Following M. Telliez's advice, SI. Tourniol cut off a number of eyes, leaving a portion of the tubers attached, and tried to preserve them by immersing them in dry wood ashes contained in a well-stoppered bottle, but the experiment did not succeed. Early Frencli Navets and Carrots. — We are indebted to Mr. Eugene Kaincy,of Paris, for the following interesting information respecting these useful vegetables. The long white Turnip, of which Buch large quantities aro now being brought from Paris to the London market, is the Long Early White Navet des Vertus or Jersey Turnip. The only district about Paris that will grow this very early Turnip is the valley on the banks of the Seine, opposite le Pecq de St. Germain and Marly, between Lo Vesmet ChatoH and the river. The principal villages where the cultivation of this Turnip is carried on are Oroissy and Montesson, especially the former, hence this Turnip is known in the Paris market as the Navet de Croissy. It is almost impossible to grow good early Turnips in the spring and summer on a large scale in the open ground j either they do not form well or else they flower without forming at all — that is to say, when they escape the ravages of the grub or beetle. In the Croissy district the soil is sandy, the climate somewhat cold, and the air saturated with moisture, conditions all of which are favourable to the cultivation of this Turnip, which elsewhere can only be grown from seed sown in July and August. The Croissy cultivators also produce large quan- tities of the early round Parsnip and half long early round scarlet Carrot, of both of which varieties enormous quantities are now being sold in the Halles and other Paris markets. As for the little Ronnd Carrot, which we also receive in large quantities from the same source, it is known to the French market gardeners as the Early Very Short Scarlet Carrot, also as the Carrotte Grelot or Bell Carrot. It is not grown on a large scale, and it is only the market gardeners round Paris who grow it in hot or cold beds, but always in small quantities, so that the exporter has to purchase it in lots of from 12 to 100 bundles from a large number of sellers, whilst of the Jersey Turnip thousands of bunches may be bought every morn. ing from two or three growers. The Turnips and Carrots at present on sale were sown in March and April. The market gardeners of the plain of Genevilliers, near Asnieres, on the west of Paris, which is watered by the sewage of the capital, are trying to grow those varieties of 'Turnips and Carrots, but, as has just been stated, it is especially near the village of Croissy, that the Navet des Tertns ia grown, whilst the little Eound Carrot is grown on a small scale all round Paris. A USEFUL DRILL RAKE. Mr. J. Faemek, 19, WellesleyRoad, Torquay, has sent us a sketch of a drill rake, of which the annexed is a representation. He has found it useful for drawing drills for Carrots, Onions, and other small seeds, inasmuch as by means of it four drills can be drawn at once. The old plan still practised in many gardens is to form drills with a hoe, but much time and labour are thereby lost. A glance at our engraving will indicate at once the construction of this implement, which is an improvement on any similar garden drill drawer we have yet seen, and as it can be made by any carpenter in a short time, it is well worth attention. Two or three might be made of different sizes, in order to form drills, say 6 in., 9 in., 13 in., and 15 in. apart, or the tines, which are of sheet. iron, might be made to slide on the cross-piece, or holes might be bored in it 3 in. apart, so that the pegs or tines could be set at different distances as desired. B. Tomatoes for Snccession.— Plants of those that have ripened thoir crops in pots, and that are clean and healthy, if elijrbtly cut back and placed in large pots, will yield a pood crop later in tlio beason, which willbefound useful where a looff supply is necdeci. After potting place them in a sunny spot and scire them abundance of water at the roots, taking; thom indoors in autumn to ripen their fruit. — S. Earth Burninp as a Weed Destroyer.— ^V^lore land, especially heavy land, is full of Couch Grass and seeds of weeds, buruin(f is a certain cure. The inorganic portions of the seeds or weeds are not destroyed by fire, but they are thus rendered available for the growth of useful crops. It seems to me to have been a marvellous mistake to fallow the land for two years, and cart away 200 loads per acre of Couch Grass, as was done on the Hall Farm, near Sevenoaks. During the summer months the soil and its contents might have been charred at small cost, and an enormous saving ofTected. The charred remains of the weeds and their seeds would have manured the land for a succession of useful crops. The earth burning effeotually destroys all seeds.— J. J, Msosi, July 15, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 67 FUTURE OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. In a very few weeks the Royal Horticultural Society will have to be reconstituted ; those who have the charge of this work might, I think, take some hints from the Volunteer Rifle Association, which goes on and prospers. The higher and richer classes naturally take the lead, but the association and rifle corps movement embrace all classes, the quaUfication being the taking an interest in the object. The subscription is one guinea. I believe that it those interested in horticulture and in the improvement o£ flowers, fruits, and vegetables would now all pull together, would join the amended society them, selves, and canvass their friends in their districts, we should soon have a strong representative society. The leading nurserymen have influence ; if they will send out with their catalogues and invoices and back up a short statement, showing how much good work the society does at its committee meetings, and by its experiments at Chiswick, and pointing out that its work is essentially distinct from that of all local societies, however influential, and ending with a strong appeal to all lovers of their gardens to lend a helping hand at once, and if the powerful gardening press) will circulate slips with their papers, I believe that such a list of suitable Fellows would come in as would very soon put the Society firmly on its legs. It would, of course, be necessary to prove that the liability of Fellows is abso- lutely limited to the amount of their guinea subscription. As in the case of the Rifle Association we should be associated with the local societies, and might, perhaps, have one great annual field-day, to which representatives would come from all parts of the country. Heatherbaiik, Weyhridge. Gboege F. Wilson. Mr. Grieve on Hybrids. — It is stated (see p. 37) that when a hybrid is made to unite with one of its parent forms, or with another parent form, or with a hybrid of different origin, the product is termed a " derivation hybrid." 1 am induced to ask if any one of your readers can kindly point out to me an instance of this circumstance having taken place. As far as my experience goes, I have always found it to be impossible to induce a hybrid to form a nnion with any other plant, sterility appearing to be the unvarying accompaniment of hybridity. The terms "hybrid" and "cross" would appear to be very frequently considered as synonymous, and applied indiscriminately. This should certainly not be done. Hybrid should never be applied to productions originating between different varieties of the same species, which are generally, if not always, fertile, while those originating between different species of the same genus, as well as those of more rare occurrence between different genera, are, I believe, invariably sterile. Should instances, however, be known where such is not the case, particulars regarding them would doubtless be interesting to many. — P. Gkieve, Cidford Rail, Bury St. Edmunds. Nymphsea flava (Leitner). — The plate of Audubon's great work which represents the American Swan likewise represents the flower of a yellow Nymphaea, or true Water Lily, under the above name. The foliage which accompanies it may be that of a Nuphar, but the flower is that of a Nymphsea. Leitner was a German botanist who explored Southern Florida, and died or disappeared there — if we rightly remember, was thought to have been killed by Indians. He doubtless met Audubon, and gave him the name which he published on his plate. The species has properly been left unnoticed so long as the whole evidence of its existence rested upon Audubon's figure of a flower, accompanied as it is with Nuphar foliage. But of late years we have heard of a yellow Water Lily in Florida. In 1874 Dr. Edward Palmer sent us a specimen with foliage and flowers col- lected in the Indian River, and certified to the yellow colour. It has now been detected by Mrs. Treat, on the St. John's River, and living plants of it communicated to us, from which we may expect to see fresh blossoms. The growth is very different from that of N. odorata, the rhizome being shorter and thickly beset with salient, blant tubercles, and the plant propagates freely by means of stolons. — A. Gkay, in " Silliman's Journal." SOCIETIES AND EXHIBITIONS. Keeping down the Weeds. — Theonlyremedy for weeds is prompt destruc- tion in a young state. Weeds are easily eradicated if never allowed to advance beyond the seed-leaf. Once let their roota run deep and wide, and their tops rise high, and then the weeds are masters in the garden. It provokes one to see the complacency with which some cultivators aUow weeds to establish them- selves in flower beds or borders, or on roads or walks, and their subsequent futile efforts to subjugate them. Prompt destruction will ultimately vanquish the very worst of them. Plantains, Grass, Thistles, and Docks, are perhaps the most difficult to eradicate. But if by any neglect these have gained a strong footing in any; garden, constant beheading alone will destroy them. No plant can live long if never allowed to form leaves or stems, and the shortest, surest, easiest way to eradicate the worst weeds is by incessant cutting off all their visible parts.— D. T. Pish. ALEXANDRA PARK ROSE SIipir.''^'^AC^ July 7th and 8th. ii^ ^/['j-^^^ ^'< After the brilliant shows of Roses so recently held Sfc the CrysMPjClaoe^ and Royal Aquarium, we did not expect to meet with siiSb. a chafmiii^" display as that which graced the concert room of the Alexandra Palace last Friday and Saturday ; indeed, taken as a whole, this was one of the very best Rose shows of the season, and being held in a cool, spacious, and well-ventilated room, free from direct sunlight, it was one of tha.^ most enjoyable, the blooms keeping unusually fresh and beautiful. Ono of the most interestiug features of the exhibition was the class devoted to English raised Roses, a feature which we hope to see followed not only here but elsewhere. It has now been indisputably demonstrated that first-class Roses can be raised in our climate from English ripened seed, and the results obtained by Messrs. Paul, Mr. Turner, Mr. Laxton, and others, are such that we can henceforth afford to show English-raised Roses in a class by themselves, since their beauty is fully equal to that of the best French-raised kinds. Pot Roses were shown on this occasion in splendid condition by Messrs. Paul and Sou, of Cheshunt, and the principal prize takers in the larger classes were Messrs. Paul and Son, Mr. R. B. Cant, Mr. C. Turner, Messrs. Cranston and Mayo, Mr. J. Keynes, and Mr. G. Prince. 'The principal prizes in the amateurs' classes were awarded to Mr. W. NicoU, Drinkstone Park, Mr. Rushmore, Mr. Ingle, Mr. Atkinson, and Mr. Smallbones. As the varieties shown were in the majority of cases similar to those mentioned in our reports last week, it is unnecessary to re-describe them. Hew Koses. — The first prize for twelve new Roses of 1874 1875, and 1876 was awarded to Mr. Turner's stand, which contained the follow- ing varieties : — Isaac Wilkinson, deep purple ; Miss Hassard, full rosy- salmon ; Sir Garnet Wolseley, crimson; VUlaret de Joyeuse, rosy- crimson; Beauty of Slough, crimson-purple ; Rev. J. B. Camm, Alex. McKenzie, purple ; Hippolyte Jamin, Sir Salar Jung, very dark purple ; Jean Duoher, yellow Tea : J. S. Mill and Royal Standard. Messrs. Paul & Son, who were second in this class, had the Shah, crimson ; Perle des Jardins, sulphur Tea ; Hippolyte Jamin, Sir Garnet Wolseley, Comtesse de Sureyne, delicate salmon-peach ; Mr. G. Y. Teas, crimson-purple ; and others already named. Among the newer varieties we noticed six excel- lent blooms of Hippolyte Jamin from Mr. Carp, of Oxford, to whom a, first prize was awarded ; Messrs. Cranston & Mayo being second with the crimson-purple Su- Garnet Wolseley; and Mr. G. Prince, of Oxford, third, with the rosy-salmon Madlle. M. Cointet. Mr. Turner had good blooms of Rev. J. B. Camm, one of the most deliciously scented of all Roses ; and Royal Standard, a rosy-lilac, globular variety. English-raised Roses.— Of these Messrs. Paul & Son, who were first, showed the following, viz. :— St. George, crimson ; Bessie Johnson, blush ; Cheshunt Hybrid, carmine ; Queen Victoria, blush-white ; Duke of Edinburgh, crimson-purple ; Peach Blossom, rosy-peach ; John Hopper, lilac-carmine ; Empress of India, crimson ; Devoniensis, creamy- white ; Lord Macaulay, crimson ; Princess Beatrice, a full, rosy-lilac ; Beauty of Waltham, carmine ; Black Prince, rich crimson- purple ; Prin- cess Mary of Cambridge, dehcate rosy-salmon ; Dr. Hooker, crimson; Duchess of Edinburgh, peach ; Reynolds Hole, dark crimson ; and Annie Laxton. Mr. Turner was second iu this class with very good blooms, among which we noted Mrs. Baker, crimson-lilac ; Royal Standard, in the way of Princess Beatrice, but of a more decided lUac tint ; Sir Garnet Wolseley, crimson ; Star of Waltham, bright carmine ; John Stuart Mill, crimson ; Miss Poole, rosy-peach ; Miss Hassard, rosy-salmon ; and Rev. J, B. Camm, bright rosy-carmine. Mr. Cant had St. George, a good crimson kind ; Lord Clyde, purplish-crimson ; cUmbing Yictor Verdier, carmine ; and others, the names of which have already been given. Tea-scented Varieties. — Among these the best iu the nursery- men's class came from Mr. G. Prince, of Oxford ; Messrs. Paul & Sons being second. Among the different varieties we noted Homere, sulphur tipped with pink ; Niphetos, Devoniensis, Madame Margottin, sulphur ; Madame Berard, sulphur, salmon centre ; Alba rosea, Marie Van Houtte, sulphur, suffused with rosy -lilac ; Belle fleur d'Angoa, flesh; Amazon, sulphur; Comtesse Nadillac, creamy-yellow and rose; Marie Arnaud, sulphur white, in the way of Niphetos ; Triomphe de Luxembourg, creamy- white and pink ; Caroline Kuster, sulphur ; Jean Ducher, orange-yellow ; Madame Sertot, white, with a blush centre ; and others. In the ama- teurs' class Mr. W. Ingle had the best twelve Teas ; the Rev. J. B. Camm being second. Among the more beautiftd varieties m these collections we noted Adam, oreamy-lUac ; Moire, creamy-yellow ; Niphetos, ivory- white; Catherine Mermet, creamy-flesh; Marechal Niel, _ yellow ; Souvenir d'un Ami, blush ; Madame Bravy, white ; Devoniensis, Gloire de Dijon; Souvenir de Paul Neron, lemon-yellow ; Cheshunt Hybrid, carmine ; and others. What is a "Vase ?— Exhibitors' Troubles.— The recent awards of prizes at the Aquarium and Royal Botanic Society's Shows have not given satisfaction, and it would be well if some standard rules could be framed for the guidance of judges. The schedules, top, should also be more explicit. The judges at the Aquarium disqualified several pretty epergnes because they were not vases. Turning to Johnson vve find vase described as a vessel generally for ornament ; would not this apply to au epergne, or did the judges expect a garden ornament, and in 68 THE GARDEN. [July 16, 1876. revenge award the first prize to a flower-pot, as coming nearer their views of a vase. As regards table decorations they disqualified a table (though they highly commended it) because the decorations employed would, they thought, be more appropriate for a larger table ; but they overlooked the fact that the schedule specified a table completely laid in every par- ticular for fourteen persons ; and, at the same time, a space scarcely large enough for ten at most was allotted. Why, therefore, disqualify when soiEcient space for the number required is not provided for ? At the Botanic Gardens a table was shown which proved so attractive that visitors clustered round it in crowds, and it was purchased by a visitor as it stood. This was disqualified on the same ground as those jast stated, although prizes were awarded to tables, or rather decorations, which, if on a table fully equipped, would have been even more crowded than the fully appointed and disqualified one in question. Another cause of complaint is withholding prizes because there is but one entry ; is this fair ? would it not be reasonable to expect the secretary, who knows at least three days beforehand to inform the intending exhibitor of the fact, and save him the trouble of showing ? To say the least about it, this kind of treatment is not calculated to stimulate the trade to give exhibi- tions their support, in order to keep societies in funds. — Dick Rad- CLirrE & Co., High Holbom. A CHILDREN'S FLOWER SHOW. In the gardens of Grosvenor House, on Monday afternoon, a " Children's Flower Show " was held, under the kindly superintendence of the Duke of Westminster, and the youthful competitors received their prizes from the hands of the Duchess herself. At four o'clock the show opened, and the flowers had then been ai-ranged under a large tent erected to the right of the lawn, all the judging being then over and the prize-winners declared. From four o'clock till six o'clock the visitors enjoyed the cool of the ample lawn, and listened to a well-played selection of music by the band of the Duke's Own (Westminster) Rifles. At six o'clock the Duchess of Westminster distributed the prizes, all of money, -n-ith an injunction (not unheeded, it might have been thought, considering the diminutive size of some of the small competitors) to be sure and "not lose it." Between thirty and forty children, the eldest apparently not more than fifteen years, received prizes, and when that part of the cere- mony was over, the_ Earl of Shaftesbury addressed the visitors, remarking that they saw him in a position which he had never occupied before, and, he firmly believed, he should never occupy again — i.e., that of leader to Mr. Gladstone. Mr._ Gladstone would address them, and the Earl of Shaftesbury was anxious that the proposal he had to make should have from Mr. Gladstone ; but the right hon. gentleman had been good enough to say that he would follow hisleadership. He hoped the visitors had seen that day sufficient to show them that they should encourage in children a taste for flowers. He had seen himself in the east and central parts of London, where children were surrounded by every bad influence of moral degrada- tion, dirt, and squalor, the refining influence of flowers on the might, the mind, and the heart that had followed on encouragement. He hoped that those who had witnessed the result of that day would do their best to encourage flower-gardening among the poor. It was his experience that it taught the children of the poor the best of lessons, for they watched the flower from seed to blossom, and learnt the beneficence of a great and unseen Power. It taught them the great truth uttered by Bacon in one of his essays, " God Himself planted the first garden," and he added that " a garden was one of God's blessings." The rich had it in their power to benefit in mind and soul the poorest, lowest, and least moral of the great mass of this country. He hoped they, the visitors, would^remcmber this, and make it a rule to impress upon them that there were " lessons in flowers, sermons in stones and babbling brooks, and God in everything." The noble speaker concluded, amid cheers, by pro- posing a vote of thanks to the Dulie and Duchess of Westminster. Mr. Gladstone seconded the motion, addressing himself to "My lords, ladies, and young friends here to-day." He said that he was reluctant to follow the Earl of Shaftesbury after his able speech upon the value of flowers, but ho was glad to give his good word to the Duke and Duchess of Westminster as a testimony to their good work, the penalty they paid for it being to have their praises sounded in their ears. He could not suggest any change from that, unless it were to advise them to change their course of life, to shut their eyes to the wants around them, to shut their ears to the cries for help, and to live for themselves alone. If they would not do this they must expect to have their praises sung before their faces or behind their backs ; but one thing he could assure them — that those praises were not empty expressions of compliment. Probably, as a nation, wo were wont to boast of our own good deeds, but in this instance, ho would not say in the " cultivation " of flowers, but in the art and science of gardening as a whole, it was England that led. Abroad, all gardens, with any pretensions to the name, were laid out on the English plan. To go back in our history no long time— a centui-y — we had reached a period when every human being was in reach of the country ; now every one at this time had the advantage of parks and squares; but London now covered such a space that many persons were being gradually removed from contact with Nature. I ho value of it was apparent from the eagerness with which it was pursued. In the manufacturing districts, however, where for miles and miles there was nothing but dirt and smoke, and where the products of toil covered the whole face of Nature and changed the very appearance of the people, there was no opportunity of enjoyment in parks and gardens. So much the more impoi-tant was it then that the cultivation of flowers should bo encouraged by window and house gardens. The need was increasing, and the opportunity, he hoped, would be improved. It was necessary the dwellings of the poor should be im- proved : they would be improved, and he hoped some convenience for gardens — horticultural and tloricultural — afibrded. Gifts of flowers were the means of drawing out the most touching sympathies between man and man. One old woman, having received a gift of flowers, declared that they preached to her ; but in gardens and in the profusion of the country he thought some were apt to forget the giver in the gift, and not hear the preaching of the flowers. If we thought, we should find it pleasant to know that by gifts of flowers poor homes were brightened and a means of deep religions education afl'orded. The right hon. gentleman concluded amid much applause. The Duke of AVestminster briefly returned thanks for the vote to himself and the Duchess of Westminster, and was willing to pay the penalty, if such it could be called, when it was accompanied by the pleasure of hearing such speeches. He hoped that the children who had gathered there that day, good plants as they seemed, would bud and blossom into noble men .and gentle women, and that their fruit would be good. LAW. Wh.vt are TrMiiEE-LiKE Trees ? — (Lowndes r. Norton). — A ques- tion of some interest arose in this case as to the meaning of the words " timber-like trees." The defendant, the Hon. Mrs. Norton, was, under the will of her late father, Mr. Thomas Lowndes, of Barrington Hall, in Essex, entitled to an estate for life, " without impeachment of waste, except voluntary waste," in certain farms at Pontnal Warren, in the county of Surrey ; and a suit having been instituted in the year 1862 by Mr. G. Alan Lowndes, a tenant for life in remainder under the same will, an order was made therein that the defendant was not dispunishable for waste, and an injunction was gi'anted restraining her from selling "any timber or tjmber-like trees " upon the Potnal property. A large number of trees, principally Scotch Firs and Larches, having recently been ad- vertised for sale upon the Potnal estate by the order of the defendant, an application was now made to the Court, on behalf of the plaintiff in the suit, in order to raise the question whether Scotch Firs and Larches were " timber-like " trees within the meaning of the injunction, and the appli- cation took the form of a motion to commit for breach of the injunction. Evidence was produced on behalf of the plaintiff to show that the proposed felling was not required for thinning or good management, and that many of the trees girthing more than 6 in. came within the term " timber- like;" and, on the other hand, evidence was produced on behalf of the defendant that the trees proposed to be sold required to be cut in a proper course of management, that the word "timber-like" had no definite meaning, and did not extend beyond the meaning of the word timber — which was confined to hard woods such as Oak, Ash, and Elm — so as to include soft woods such as Scotch Fir or Larch. 'The Vice-Chancellor (Sir Charles Hall) said he could not hold that the defendant was doing that which was restrained by this order. If it were necessary to consider what were her actual rights irrespective of the order, his Lordship would consider that, having regard to the nature of her estate and interest, and to the fact that she was not dispunishable f orwaste, her cutting down these Fir trees was not waste. This consideration would assist in putting a consti'uction upon the order. The meaning of the word " timber-like " was not very clearly defined, but his Lordship could not construe it as going beyond timber, except so as to include trees which in due course of growth would become timber. The motion must accordingly be refused, with costs. NOTES AND QUESTIONS-YARIOUS. Maclean's Advancer Pea.— I reen"et to have to coiroborato the experience ot " P." (see p. 10) regarding the Advancer Pea ; it has heen a favourite with me for ten years, and has till nowiinvariably given me entire satisfaction, but this year I have only about ono-fourth of a crop. My sowing waa made in March under very favourable circumstances, and close by it wore sown Wheeler's First Early, and Veitch's Perfection ; the former has proved a splen- did Pea, yielding an abundant crop, and the latter gives promise of all that can be desired. I attribute its failure to the seed not being properly perfeobed last year in consequence of the bad season. — Gbadatium, Ufk. Estimating the Age of Trees.— is there any rule by which one could arrive at a reasonable estimate of the age of old Yovr or Beech trees P Per- haps Mr. Berry, or some tree-loving reader, will oblige me with the information. — B. Hardy Palms Flowering in Ireland.— There are two fine spocimona of Chamn?rop8 in the grounds at Glasnevin. One of these in rather a sheltered position has repeatedly Howered ; the other in a more exposed situation not until this year. The interesting feature of the matter is that the flowers turn out to be of a difl'orent sex from those of the other, eo that we ("Irish Farmers' Gazette ") may expect shortly to chronicle, for the first time, the fruiting of a Palm in the open ground in this country. Flowers for Hospitals.— At the Liverpool Street Terminus of the Great Eastern Railway, there has been added to the box which for a long time has collected nowspapers for tho patients at the London Hospital, a box for flowers, which it is hoped tho passengers by the morning suburban trains will fill It is cleared every morning at half-past ten o'clock.— J. R. Dboop, Stam- ford Mill. To Correspondents.- H. W. Derry, W. J. Hampshire, G. Preston, Sub- South ItAly. and others who do not send any name or address with their com- raunicatione, aro reminded that no query is answered which is received without the sender's name and address, in addition to any pseudonym or initials writer may desire to uho in the paper. THE GARDEN. 69 SATTTHDAY. JULY 22, 1G76. " This is an art Which doffs mend Nature : chaDge it rather : bnt Tas AfiT ITSELF 13 Ni-TUBE." — Skalcerpeare , EDGINGS AND WALKS FOR KITCHEN GARDENS. CosiOM, time, and authority are forces all arrayed in favour of these, and yet they are as wrong as they can be. For the following reasons there should not be any walks in a perfect kitchen garden : — 1st. — CONTESIENCE OF "WATERING AKD iRRIGATIOJf. — EvCn iu our moist country good vegetable culture is not everywhere possible without thorough watering or irrigation. As at present arranged, watering is difficult, and irrigation impossible, without spoiling all the walks, gravel, edgings, &c. In many parts of the country, especially in Scotland and the moist parts of Ireland, the need of thorougb watering or irrigation is not known ; but in England it is seriously felt. Three warm days in July show their effects in Covent Garden, inconvenience the housekeeper, and injure the supplies of tender succulent vegetable food at a time when these are more than ever important for health. It cannot be said that either our kitchen or market gardening is what it should be so long as we are unable to reap benefit instead of loss from the sunny weather. Eor in a garden properly irrigated, a few weeks of warmth would simply give us a better result than we should obtain during a similar number of cold or clouded days. Therefoi-e we shall never have a perfect kitchen garden till all crops liable to suffer from drought may be as promptly and effectually watered as a small plant growing in a pot. 2nd. — To Secure Good Culture. — To get the fullest result from a given piece of ground devoted to vegetable culture, it is necessary that the whole of it be thoroughly turned up, and well enriched from time to time. Walks and hard alleys, gravel, &c., prevent this from being done with ease and thoroughness at present. The whole surface of a perfect kitchen garden should be as much open to the labours of man, or horse, or spade, as a heap of loam lying in a compost yard. In the orthodox kitchen garden, the men may frequently be seen carefully scraping their boots lest anything should get on the walks, just as if they were going into a drawing-room or a Turkish bath. Half the ground thoroughly cultivated would bo better than the large areas we frequently see bare in many places or poorly cultivated. As regards the convenience of moving composts, &c., that is more easily secured in a garden free from all obstructions in the way of well-gravelled walks and neatly- kept edgings. In the case of a very large garden, a firm cart-way might in some cases be desirable, but the fact is that the space really necessary for the kitchen garden proper, under a good system of culture, is of a size that sucb a conveni- ence leading to it is all that is reqiiired. The best system for the kitchen garden is a thorough trenching and annual enriching afterwards, and throughout the seasons of greatest growth, such cropping of the surface as never allows the ground to be idle ; this system ia most easily pursued where there is nothing in the cultivator's way. 3bd. — Because Walks abe Needless as a Convenience AMONG Kitchen Garden Crops.— Permanent walks may, to some, be a convenience among choice dwarf fruit trees, small fruits, plantations of herbs, &c., but nobody who considers the matter fully will say that they are needed among succulent crops, such as Cauliflowers, Kidney Beans, and the like. A walk in itself is ugly, and a few lines of a useful well-grown crop are far preferable from the point of view of appearance ; as to incon- venience from mud, &c., there is literally none, because in any case the 'cultivator or gatherer has to get on the ground, and in the usual style of elaborately laid-out gardens he has always the needless trouble of taking care not to dirty the walks. In a well-drained garden there is little fear of mud. In case one of the main lines of walk pass through a kitchen garden, we need not consider it, because that is a question concerning the general convenience of the place. It has nothing to do with the present question — the need of walks in th.e kitchen garden itself. 4Tn. — Cleasliness and Neatness. — It is much easier to keep a garden clean, the whole surface of whicb is devoted to crops, than one where a large area is bare, and continually offering in edgings and in gravelled surfaces sunny welcome to the seeds of weeds. Under a better system, all the trouble of cleaning the walks, and keeping edgings, &o., in order, would be saved. As to appearance, there is nothing nearly so beau- tiful in the ordinary kitchen garden as may be seen in a garden where the whole surface throughput the growing season is covered with healthy growing vegetation. 5th. — Because Modern Wants ahe Dieeerent. — The kitchen garden is now planned as it used to be, when many of the flowers, fruits, &c., were all grown within its walls, and in those days there was absolute need of walks in the kitchen garden, from the season of the Golden Crocus to that of the Christmas Rose. But we have changed all that. There has long been a desire to separate fruit gardening from kitchen gardening : the wisdom of this view there is no room to discuss here, but there can be no doubt that in most gardens flowers — hardy as well as tender — have left the kitchen garden for good. 6tu. — Economy. — In many kitchen gardens there ia quite a mile of broad, gravelled walks, mainly for the con- venience of those who have to perform the pretty frequent labour of cleaning them and the edgings, &c. Space may not be very precious in the places spoken of, but it is none the less true that the ground often wasted in walks would be suSicient to grow vegetables for a family. It is obvious that a market gardener who tried to do his work in a paradise of walks would soon bo heard of in the Bankruptcy Court. Market gardeners, like other men, sometimes err, but none of them are simple enough to go to work in this manner. Let it not be thought, however, that their gardens are always untidy because of the absence of walks. In most countries, the better class of market gardens are models which the private gardeners might well study, even from the point of view of neatness and appearance. Is it needful to speak oE the absurd waste oE means in the making and keeping of walks, edgings, &c., not merely useless, but the actual source of perpetual loss of time and means in keeping ? I could give various other reasons against the common practice, but they are not needed. I know well that the present system is so firmly rooted that few will be able to change to abetter plan soon, but, nevertheless, the discussion of the question will probably do good. All waste is a fertile source oE weakness, and in the present state of gardening, where so much remains to be done, we can ill afford to spend means and energy in the wrong places. In many cases it will be expedient to leave things as they are in the case of fairly well-formed gardens ; but iu the case of laying out a new garden, I should certainly separate the fruits — large and small — wholly from the kitchen garden ; also, all such, plants as herbs which do not require deep or frequent culture, all store or nursery beds which are often visited, the frame ground, plunging beds, &c., I wot Id remove from it altogether. Such walks as convenience demands might be made in the first- named part. The kitchen garden itself, which should be con- tiguous, might be formed or sheltered in whatever way the needs of the position might suggest. No walks should be seen in it ; it would, in fact, be treated as one plot of ground in the highest state of culture to which drainage, trench- ing, manure, and water could bring it. A. W. H. SWEDISH TREES AND WILD FLOWERS. Those who are fond of forests should visit Sweden, where the country consists, so to speak, of woods and vast lakes, and where, from the rocky nature of the soil, the most picturesque combinations of trees and water are to be met with on every side. The scenery is not grand like the Alps of Switzerland, or the dark, gloomy fjords of Norway, but it is in many respects more pleasing. The journey across Sweden by the Gotha Canal from Gothenburg to Stockholm, in the early part of June, is one of pure delight, for there are to be seen endless forests of Pine with great Lichen-covered rocks, then miles of 70 THE GARDEN. [JaLT 22, 1876. the Silver Birch, that most graceful oE all trees, with an under- growth of Lily of the Valley and Anemones, intermixed in the cultivated parts with Apple and Pear trees in flower, and with Ash, Sycamore, Aspen, and Alder bursting into the brightest green. The fields also are at their brightest, the houses are painted red, the Grass is full of Cowslips, and the people are all in the highest spirits at the disappearance of their long winter. In Stockholm the whole population turns out on Sundays and holidays to picnic, and comes back from the woods laden with the flowers of the Bird Cherry, a beau- tiful shrub or tree, which we too rarely see here, but which in spring, if planted in quantity, would be delightful in our shrubberies, both for its scent and beauty. In Sweden it grows in profusion. The Lilac is also planted in banks and hedges near houses, and as it does not flower in Stockholm till the middle of June, and is not interfered with by spring frosts, it bears masses of bloom such as we only see here in favourable years. It is said that there is no spring in Sweden, bub that the trees leap from winter into summer, and cer- tainly the leaves came out this year almost with the rapidity of a transformation scene. The weather in May and in April had been very ungenial, and vegetation was much retarded. In the north of Sweden, in Dalecarlia, many trees have been greatly injured or entirely killed by the late frosts, and indeed, in some places only the Birch, Ash, Aspen, and Pine seem to have escaped. Driving along the deep, sandy, forest roads of Dalecarlia, you have a dry, clear air, a bright blue sky, and are regaled first with the scent of the Pines, and then with that of the Silver Birches, and it is difficult to say which scent is the most refreshing. In some of the woods a species of Lichen grows among the short Grass, which makes the ground look as if silvered. In all the more open parts grow White Anemones, the Pyrola, and the Lily of the Yalley. In the frequent bogs and marshes are endless quantities of Menyanthes trifoliata, of a kind of large Buttercup, and of a plant something like a dwarf white Arum flower. The Water Lily seems only to grow in the south of Sweden. In some parts miles of boggy ground are covered with the Cotton Grass, giving almost the effect of snow. At Mora, at the end of Lake Siljan, in Dalecarlia, the Primula farinosa grows plenti- fully in the fields, and further up, in Elfdal, the Grass is full of a plant like a dwarf Lily of the Valley, which I took for a Pyrola. In the parks about Stockholm — which are really forests rather than parks — I noticed the blue Hepatica grow- ing wild in profusion, intermixed with the Dog Violet, the Cowslip, and the Anemone. The Stockholm parks are delightful, being left to Nature, and the Djur Garden or Deer Park is specially noble. It is about 21 miles round, and abounds in old woods of Pine and Scotch Fir, intermixed with fine Oaks, Poplars, Sycamores, a few Hawthorns, &c. Bold, Lichen-covered rooks jut up everywhere. Now you have a view down the glade of a primeval forest ; then you see the lake gleaming through the trees ; another turn and you see the domes and the bright houses of Stockholm across a fore- ground of blue water. There is a celebrated eating-house in this park, called Haselbacken, where you can sit and dine, or sup, looking over banks of Lilac and shrubs at the sun setting over Stockholm, listening to the band, and enjoying excellent food at about half London prices. Why can we notTaave a few open-air restaurants with music in London ? In the parks or on the Thames Embankment they would surely pay in summer, and our people would be just as glad to sit at their meals in the open air, and have flowers, and greenery, and music, as foreigners are. To return to Stockholm ; another of the parks is called Drottningbolm, whore also very fine trees are to be seen. The Haga Park seems, in the part I visited, to be largely composed of thickets of the Bird Cherry. One great charm of these parks is the method of going to them. Stockholm is built on islands, and the way of going about is by small steam gondolas, and in loss than five minutes you arc carried for a penny from the centre of the city to the Deer Park, where you might in many parts fancy yourself altogether in the wilds. TheTongor trips are also very pleasing with the rock and Pir-crownod shore, among which the villas of the Stockholmers are inter- spersed. At Goflo, a twelve hours' journey north of Sweden by steamer, is a fine wild park, consisting of a wood by the side of a noble river, which runs foaming along oyer a series of small rapids. Nothing is done except to cut paths through the trees, and the effect is altogether charming. North of Stockholm the Oak and several other of our common trees do not seem to grow, and it is only in the south that the Holly will stand the winter : it is grown in greenhouses in Upsala. P. NOTES ON NEW ROSES. 0-V looking at the names of the Rosea exhibited at the Crystal Palace and Alexandra Park Rose Shows, I see that the stands con- taiued the best of the older varieties, but few new ones. A northern rosarian, who visited the late Crystal Palace Rose Show and most of the other principal Rose Shows in the south, has favoured me with a copy of his notes in reference to new Roses taken on the spot, and which are as follows :—E. Y. Teas.— Good, perfect in shape, and bright in colour, not large, bat finely finished ; brighter in colour than Duohesse do Caylas ; if large enough will be a grand Rose. Comtesse Serenyi.— Pearly Peach, fine in shape, and really good amongst light Roses. Hippolyte Jamin.— Pine Rose of the Victor Verdier race ; likely to be an improved Comtesse d'Oxford, of lighter, yet bright and clear colour ; large. Rev. J. B. M. Camm.— Rich bright, rosy.pink ; not large, but full and good. Oxonian.— A full, open-shaped flower, of bright lilac.pnrple and rose ; distinct and good. J. Stuart Mill.— Light red, deep in the petal, and good in form; medium size, and of fair average merit. Emily Laxton. — In the way of Monsieur Neman, but darker ; deep petals ; medium size ; likely to be good ; not yet sent out. Miss Hassard. — Similar in colour to Comtesse Serenyi; large, but in some cases wanting in finish, altogether a fine Rose. Mr. Prince states that this is one of the finest Roses in habit and freedom of bloom. Robert Marnook. A dark Duke of Edinburgh, good in size, and likely to be a favourite, not yet sent out. Duke of Connaught. — Fine in shape and colour, but rather small. Mrs. Baker.— In shape like Victor Verdier j some. what rough, but distinct and good. Isaac Wilkinson.— Very dark in colour and perfect in shape ; small, as shown at the Crystal Palace, but, as shown at the Alexandra Park, one of the finest flowers in the whole show ; not yet sent out. Marchioness of Exeter. — A distinct shade of rose, large and fine, likely to be really good. The whole of the above are good and worth growing, but many ot the old Roses are still in the front rank, and are as yet unsurpassed; Da- pay Jamin, Etienne Levet, and Mens. Neman were wonderfully fine at the Crystal Palace. Thomas Mills.- This is turning ont to be a grand flower ; it is fuller this year than usual, and of the most clear and brilliant colour it is possible to imagine. Marie Finger, as exhibited by Mr. Keynes, was a flower ot great beauty, and when good is a strikingly fine Rose. Cheshunt Hybrid is very good this year, and is thoroughly distinct from all others. The new Teas, Jean Dueher and Perle des Jardins, are good additions ; bat I fear the latter will be rather small as a show Rose. The Teas at the Crystal Palace were said to be the finest ever shown j the best, to my mind, were Souvenir d'Eliso Vardon, Marie Van Iloutte, Madame Bravy, Catbe. rine Mermit, and Niphetos amongst the small-growing kinds, and Marechal Niel, Belle Lyonnaise, Madame Berard, and Cheshunt Hybrid among strong rampant-growing varieties. The following information has been obtained from Messrs. Gray, of Chei-tsey :— Aline Sisley, Tea Rose, new in colour, appears to be free, and the bud long and pointed, such as is sought after for button, hole Roses. Duchess of Edinburgh, Tea Rose (Veitch).— Very pretty, but not distinct from the old Souvenir de David. La Rosiero, H.P.— A very good Rose, large, full, and of good form ; fiery amaranth-red, ciroamferonoo deep purple; very effective. Villaret de Joyeuse. — A valuable flower of the same colour as Jules Margottin. Gonsoli Gaelano.— Colour of Souvenir de Malmaison, and quite up to its description. The following notes have beon made upon the now Roses by mvself from blooms grown in my own garden, and first I will give the Rev. J. B. M. Camm :— With me this Rose is of good size, perfect in form lovely in colour, and without doubt one of the sweetest Roses grown! Gonsoli Gaelano in the north is a very pleasing Rose, wood smooth, petals extra thick, not full, best when seen in the opening bud state! pretty outer petals, jialo pearly.poach, centre a rich oalmon.rose ; it is not much unlike Baroness Rothschild, and may turn out good. Madame Rose Charmenx.— Crimson with a parple shade ; a flat Rose with small petals, quite full, but wants form and finish. Madam Naohury.— A fine largo-sized Rose, a shade darker than Peach Blossom, but wants substance and finish. May Turner. Sent ont by M. Verdier, very like Madame Thdrese Levet, both in colour and form, and in point of fragrance quite equal to the Rev. J. B. M. Camm ; colour salmon-rose, paler at the edges. Mademoiselle Marie Coiutet.— One ot the best Roses of recent introduction, and one THE GARDEN. 71 which is snre to become a favourite ; large, full, and fairly-acented 5 colour very fresh rose with a pink centre. Antoine Moutin. — A large Rose, fall and of good outline; sweet-scented, colour bright rose, outer petals paler. We have, however, a great many of this colour. La Sonveraine. — Flowers very large, petals deep, cupped, and of good form ; bright carmine-rose with pale reflex. This bids fair to become one of our standard exhibition varieties. Royal Standard. — A large, full, and fine Rose of good form and finish ; likely to become a favourite for exhibition purposes. The Rose season is now at its best in the north of England, and at the time I am writing (July 17) I cannot say that I remember a finer season ; the weather has been very hot ; the thermometer stood at 90° in the shade on July 16. The older varieties of Roses have been wonderfully fine. I cannot say so much in favour of the new kinds, but we cannot expect two-year.old Roses to beat those of four years. Rose Cottage, Fencote, Bedale. Henkt Taylob. SHADE POR ROSES IN THE OPEN AIR. When visiting the grounds belonging to the New Plant and Bulb Com- pany at Colchester the other day, I was struck with the careful shading provided for some of the choicer Lilies. They were planted in beds with a light skeleton span.roofed house over them. This framework is used to support blinds, which are let up or down at pleasure, as sun or shade is desired. The blinds themselves rest safely under a waterproof coping, that forms the ridge of the skeleton woodwork. Thus protected the blinds last for many years. I remember that similar arrangements used to be made for Dahlias thirty years ago. Under such blinds the flowers last as long again, and come out with a beauty and clearness of colouring impossible in the case of those exposed to the mid-day sun. Surely our best and favourite Roses are worthy of as much, or more, attention than either Lilies or Dahlias ; some of them may not bear much confinement ; but the subdued shade offered by a blind suspended some way above the blooms is quite a different matter from a cap placed over the head of each flower. In the latter case it is the heat that ruins the colours as much as the shade. But under blinds the heat would be moderated even more than the light subdued. Shading would assuredly prolong the period of blooming, and that would be a gain of much importance. For instance, this year the Rose season has hardly lasted a month ; there was scarcely a flower expanded in the open ground until after June 20 ; there is now (July 19) hardly a creditable one left. All is over, with the exception of a few lingering stragglers. Now with a good situation under canvas, or shade of some sort, the Rose season might have been extended a month or more ; and besides, some of our Roses, such as Madame Lacharme, are too delicate for the open air. Place them under persistent shade, and all their extreme delicacy of tint would be preserved and enhanced. For Teas again, what so useful as temporary shade ? A framework of this kind might be made highly ornamental and valuable for cutting from, furnished with Teas alone. The blinds would protect them from cold in spring and autumn as well as shield their delicate beauty from the midsummer snu, and so extend, as well as preserve, the season of beauty of Tea Roses, the most valuable of all for cutting, the sweetest in fragrance, and the moat exquisite in form. D. T. Fish, HINTS ON POTTING PLANTS. Among flowering plants the conditions as regards potting vary much. Some species of stove and greenhouse plants, chiefly of the hard- wooded section, require firm potting at all stages, while the her- baceous class generally like a loose and open soil. Heaths, Epacrises, Azaleas, Rhododendrons, and all those species which produce a pro- fusion of small hair.like roots, seem to thrive best in a compost of the hardest texture. It is unnecessary to go to extremes, of course, in potting ; but I have seen all the above potted so hard that a pointed stake would, with difficulty, penetrate the soil, and yet the plants have thrived amazingly. In such a case it is essential to leave plenty of room for water, for the balls take it in slowly, and require a large quantity to soak them thoroughly. Less than half an inch should never be left in potting with small pots, and in very large ones the soil should not come within 2 in. or 3 in. of the top of the pot. One can then give the plant sufficient water to soak it at one application. The character of the roots themselves and the habit of the plant are generally good as guides in potting. Fast.growing, luxuriant- foliaged plants (particularly of the ornamental-leaved class) should be potted moderately firm only, and some should hardly have the soil pressed about their roots at all. Such a subject, for example, as the Cyanophyllum magnificum, which is admired for the size and beauty of its leaves, makes the finest specimen when grown in a loose and open soil. Ixoras and Allamandas, &c., grow vigorously in a soil of the same texture, but they ripen their wood and bloom earlier, per. haps, in a tolerably firm soil ; they must not be treated, however, like a Heath or Azalea, Caladiums, Alocasias, and similar plants make the fastest and freest growth, and consequently the finest leaves, ia an open, fibry soil ; and so also does the Balsam. For the latter, a rich, loose soil in a roomy pot is the secret of success. With these conditions, and a genial growing temperature, getting up plants of giant size is only a question of a few weeks. Loosely, potted plants are easily watered, and retain moisture longest ; con. seqnently, those plants to which an equable degree of moisture at the root is necessary should be potted loosely. I may, for example, instance the Cineraria and Calceolaria — subjects that do not thrive in a hard soil under any circumstances. Pelargoniums, too, like an open soil, but they may have the benefit of the fingers and thumbs round the sides of the pots each time they are shifted. In potting any kind of plant, the state of the soil is of course an all-important consideration. Ramming or beating is out of the question with a wet soil, or even if it be so moist as to bake ; bat it must be taken for granted that no one will use soil of such a description. — J. S. Striking Pelargonium Cuttings in Sand and Water. — Having a clay soil here, I have had some trouble in getting bedding Pelargonium cuttings to strike, more particularly those belonging to the tricolor section. Seeing, therefore, the plan of striking them in sand and water in saucers recommended in your columns, I have tried it, and find that they strike root like magic, placed on a shelf in the greenhouse near the glass in a full sun. Would yon, there, fore, kindly tell me what to do with snoh cuttings after they are rooted ? Should I plant them out, or pot them ? They are intended for next summer's bedding. — G. S. M., Great Malvern. [Cuttings rooted in water are apt to lose their tender rootlets, unless very care, fully handled. Pot your cuttings when rooted singly in small 60.sized pots, and place them in a close frame until they have become esta- blished in the new soil. One of the best ways of rooting cuttings of bedding Pelargoniums is to take them off now and dibble them close together in rows along a south border in the fall sunshine, taking care to water them well every evening.] ■Window Plants. — No two hardy plants seem to find so much favour amongst the dwellers of our city courts than Musk and Creeping Jenny. About forty pots of the former, and a score more plants of the latter, were staged in good condition at the City Flower Show in Finsbury Circus the other day. The comparative ease with which these two plants can be grown amidst the smoke and dust of London shows that certain good, hardy plants should be selected and cultivated specially for show purposes, and that encouragement should [be given them in the prize list. No doubt gifts of suitable hardy plants, established in pots, and available for exhibition another year, would be heartily welcomed by the committee of the City Show, and would make excellent supplementary prizes. — D. Eucalyptus Flowering in the Isle of Wight. — I have a plant of Eucalyptus now in fiower, the seed of which was brought from Port Natal in 1865 ; it was raised in a hot bed, and when the young plant was a year-and-a-halt old, it was planted out in a sheltered situation facing south-west. Its height is now 35 ft., although it lost some 4 ft. or 5 ft. from frost one severe winter. Its girth at 2 ft. from the ground is 2 ft. 6 in., and it varies very little up to about 10 ft. from the ground. The fiowers, which are white, surrounded by a hard, woody calyx, are now fully expanded, after remaining in the bud state since the spring of 1875. Has the Eucalyptus been known to flower in England before ? [Yes.] I may add that the soil in which it is growing is very stiff, almost approaching to clay. — J. N., Westridge, Byde. Estimating the Ages of Trees.— Allow me to say in aBswer to." B." (sea p. 68), that there is no sure way of estimating the a^e of Yew or Beech while stanaing, without some historic record as a guide, because of the great differ- ence in the rate of growth, as influenced by soil, aspect, cUmate, and accidental causes. When, however, a tree is felled, its age can be ascertained by counting the rings of growth, as shown on the section of its trunk. — J. J. R. The Pecan-nut Oonntry.— The belt of country in North America best suited to the growth of the Pecan, is between latitudes 28" and 32=' north of the equator. The Pecan as a tree grows well much farther north than latitude 32'* but the Nuts produced are small in size, have thick shells, and are generally inferior in quality. The fruit lessens in size and deteriorates in general com- mercial value in proportion as you go north of latitude 31^^, until both the tree and fruit cease to grow about the latitude of the upper line of Kentucky ; there- fore its culture here is out of the question. Mr. Thompson's New Poppy (Papaver umbrosnm).— It is impossible to speak in terms of too high commendation of this Poppy. Its brilliant scarlet petals with their intense black blotch render it one of the most effective plants which have been introduced tor many a day.— H. Habpub Cbswe, Drayton- Beattcham^ Iteciorii, Tring, 72 THE GARDEN. [July 22, 1876. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Giant Litres. — Mr. Mcintosh, of Duneevan, near Weybridge, has sent na two stems ot Lilies (Fj. auratum) 10^ ft. anrl 11 ft. high rcBpeotivcly. The Lilies in his garden are the moat saperb spooimeua of flowerinfj plants that we have over seen either indoors or in the open air. They look down on one as Lilies might in Brobdignagian gardens, each plant a pillar ot flowers, and each flower as largo as a side dish. They are growing among Rhododendrons, and will serve to show what a revolution these now Lilies will make in our gardens as soon as they are properly grown therein. Gilbert's Tomatoes. — Some of the finest Tomatoes we have seen ore those recently shown by Mr. R. Gilbert, of Bnrghlcy, many of which weighed 11 oz. or more. On catting np one of these we were surprised to find that a number ot seeds had germinated, and that littlo green plantleta were pushing their way through to the light. Tomatoes aro easily grown, and the many who relish them will desiro that they should be more frequently well grown. TnK Dky WEATREn.— It is surprising how soon the effect of a few dry days is felt in our gardens and markets. Three or tour dry days drive up prices in the London markets ; throe or four more, and the growers begin to despair, and say they will have " nothing to bring to market if rain does not come soon." There would bo very serious inconvenience, it not danger to health in London, it we were to experience si.^c or seven weeks ot severe drought. la that case onr vegetable supplies would be cut off. Wo should probably, how. ever, get a small and dear supply from other countries where pro- vision is made against drought. Flowers are much influenced by the drought, and supplies ot them have greatly fallen off; Sweet Peas have quite disappeared. In frnit most things aro smaller, ex. cept Cherries, which are very fine. Strawberry supplies are very short and poor, owing to the heat. Being afortnigbt later than usual the Strawberry season has been a very short one. Late Strawberries from the north would now prove a paying crop. Large Red. rayed Lilt. — Ono of the finest of all the varieties of Lilium auratum has just been sent tons by Messrs. Cripps, of Tun. bridge AVells. The flower in question measures fully 9 in. in diameter when naturally reflexed, each broad white segment being furnished with a central strip of chocolate. brown. The spots and papilla) are also ot a d.'cp brown, which tie white ground colour shows off to advautago. WiiirE East Lothian Stocks. — Mr. Mackellar sends ns, from Abuey Hall, Gheadlo, beautiful specimens of these Stocks, ot the value of which as decorative plants he speaks in high terms. They are dwarf (rarely over a foot in height), and both lateral and ter. miual shoots are densely covered with pure whito fragrant flowers, that individually remind one of the blooms ot a Cape Jasmine. The specimens sent were sown in heat early in January, and were grown on in a frame until May or Juno, when they were planted oat, and have come freely into flower tliis month. Among them are thrco distinct types, the best being that which produces blossoms on the terminal and lateral branches simultaneously. TnE Califor.vian Lilies.— These, to which Mr. Birr hag called our attention lately, are of remarkable interest just now from their eizo and stately port and wonderful charm of colour. By the name Californiau we mean the species to which the term pardalinum is generally applied, and under which name are grouped such supposed varieties or sub-species as californicura, pubernlnm, parviflorum, Uartwcgi, Walkcri, &c., all inhabiting the lovely and genial coast or foothill valleys of the long-strctching Sierras and the coast ranges, and varying much according to poaitioD, soil, or altitude. Dr. Bolander, who knows much more of these Lilies than any European botanist, groups all tho forms of pardalinum under the head of L. canadense, and there is good reason to adopt this course from a botanical point of viow. But, novortholess, there aro suflicienc differences to justify a name for what may be termed the central typo ot the splendid races of Lilies wo allude to, and L. pardalinum (Kellogg) would seem to have tho prior right. This species would seem to vary in spotting, and in tho extent and hue of tho bright colour of the outer portion of its flower, almost as much as the beau- tiful.wooded hills and valleys where it grows vary. To give all the varioua forma of it now in our nurseries difft-rent Latin names, and to waste time in " hair-spllttirg " from keen observation as to the difTeronccs ot tho hue ot their leaves, &c., aro foolish and not quite harmless practices, tending, aa they do, to confuse and puzzle tho public. Tho varieties vary as Potatoes or Peas vary, and we BhoHid accept this fact in all thankf aincsa that plants aro not stereo. typed. Distinct names should only bo given to tho more marked and extreme forma, and, as far as possible, distinguishing those by English camea indicating their spotting, colour, size, or other peculiarity. HAEDY FLOWEES OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. What arc tho most suitable classes of hai'dy plauts to furnish good bloom after tho numerous and beautiful races of spring and early summer flowers have passed away .•' This is a most important question, and one which may be best answered now, when a host of effective plants, from Peonies to Irises, havo past out of bloom. The heat of summer has put an end to tho freshness and gaiety of many of tho hill-pasture and Alpine plants, and those now full of freshness and vigour may be depended on during the heated term, which sometimes inter- venes before the dawn of autumn. Most precious of the flowers of the season are the various Yuccas now in fine bloom. For stately beauty there is nothing to equal them, and next.per- Laps, in value are the fragile-looking Everlasting Peas,not for- getting the white. variety of the old Everlasting Pea (Lathyrus latifolius), which is a most desirable plant. These are never more attractive than when running wild over a bank, or through low shrubs. We noticed some half-wild on a railway embank- ment the other day, and they were charming. Not unworthy of a place beside them is tho rosy Coronilla [C. varia), a very graceful, trailing plant, which is quite fresh throughout tho growing season ; it is excellent for the wild garden banks, &c. Tho noble-looking Faukia Sieboldi is a grand plant on a free soil ; we have never seen it finer than on the Wimbledon peat in Mrs. Marryatt's old garden. There aro some attractive plants among the Speedwells that flower just now, notably Veronica longiEolia, paniculata, and iucana. Cam- panula lactca is a tall, frco-growing kind, with a profusion of very pale bluish flowers — a remarkably fiue border plant. The small Campanulas, such as C. muralis, C. Cymbalaria, and C. carpatica, are flowering freely. With the Campanulas may bo grouped the graceful Adcnophoras, such as A. Lamarcki and communi.'i, now ia flower. The Mulleins (Verbascum) are still showy and stately', but are best fitted for copses and tho wild garden. The curious and interesting if not very bright- coloured North American Silk-reeds (Asclepiascornuta, incar- nata, and speciosa) are also now in bloom, rejrardless of tho heat. A graceful and peculiar plant is Lysiniachia clethroides, with white flowers in spikes gracefully bending over ; it is a beautiful border plant. Among spring-sown annuals there is much loveliness, particularly in the Godetia section of the Evening Primroses (ffinolhera), Nemophilas, Acroclinium roseum, Eutocas, Collinsias, &c. Some of the earlier Asters and Solidagos are in flower, but none suitable for choice col- lections. Some of the Rudbeckias are showy, such as R. pin- nata and R. angustifolia. By far tho most remarkable fine- foliaged plant of tho season is tho Gunnera scabra, of which the specimen at Kew is now remarkable for size and vigour; near it some plants called Asphodclinc (Asphodels in fact) bear graceful spikes of yellow star-shaped flowers. The plant called Milla (Tritelcia) laxa at Kew, and which seems a smaller and lighter coloured plant than those grown in nurseries round London, is a charming flower, reminding one of the deli- cate hues of spring flowers. These later Triteleias are valuable garden plants, and will one day be as popular as they deserve. Tho Red Flax (Liiium grandillorum) is very fine indeed just now, quite a treasure in its way when well grown. A'^arious species of Lythrum are opening their flowers, and they are not without beauty. A Sedum called calabricum at Kew is a handsome Italian species ; it is probably in cultivation under other names. The very distinct Erythrochrcte palmatifida is in flower at Kew, as is tho singular Mccouopsis Wallichi, ua Indian Poppy-like flower of much beauty. Treble-Bp./^ which it has the ^ narrow undulate petals and bilobed crest on the narrow lip. There are nn. merona varieties varying in the col. our and size of the flowers and a r. rangement of the brown blotches and streaks. The 0. Itdeo-inir- pureum Group. O. t riu m- plians. — This is a strong. gr owing plant, havinglarge, glossy, two.leaved pseudo bulbs, some, thing like those of 0. Pescatorei, but larger, and often speckled with brown; flower, spikes three to seven -flowered ; flowers 4 in. to 6 in. across ; sepals and petals lanceolate, the margins of the petals sometimes slightly jagged, of a bright golden-yellow colour, spotted with cinnamon, brown; lip white with a lemon-yellow centre, the apex tipped with purple rose. This is rather rare, and will make a fine plant when well grown for the spring and early summer exhibitions. I have seen some fine varieties of this glorious species at Ferniehurst, and consider it one of the best of all the numerous yellow and brown-coloured species. O. luteo-purpureum. — This is a very valuable species, of which 0. Halli, O. hystrix, and 0. radiatura are the most character. iatic forms, these again becoming merged into the normal type through a long series of but slightly different intermediate sub. varieties. It is a question whether even the grand 0. triumphans is not an extreme and superlatively beautiful form of thia errant species; pseudo-bulbs conical, slightly compressed, two-leaved; leaves ob-lanceolate, often of a bronzy colour ; flower.spikea from 1 ft. to 3 ft. long, sometimes branched ; individual flowers from 2 in. to 4 in. across ; sepals and petals lanceolate, acuminate, golden, yellow, heavily blotched with brown ; lip white, spotted with brown, having its margin serrate, and a radiate golden crest. O. luteo-purpureum Halli. — One of the finest forms, having flowers from 3 in. to 4 in. across ; sepals and petals crimson-brown, tipped and margined with bright golden yellow ; lip an inch broad, serrate, white, spotted with crimson ; crest radiate, golden ; column white, streaked with brown; the sepals and petals are green behind, streaked with brown. A splendid specimen of this variety bore four flower.spikea in the collection of £. Salt, Esq. One of the spikea ' Mower of 0. cirrhosum (two-thirds natural size). was from 3 ft. to 4 ft. long, branched, and bore thirty flowers j it makes a fine plant for exhibition. O. Coradinei. — rrofeesor Reiohenbach thinks this may possibly be a natural hybrid between 0. triumphans — which it much resem. bles — and one of the forms of which 0. odoratum is considered the type. Sepals and petals from 2 in. to 3 in. across, of a pale yellow colour, with two or three chestnut brown blotches ; lip creamy-white, with a large irregular blotch on its disc, and a few smaller spots near its base ; the crest of the lip is different from that of 0. triumphans, and the habit and growth of this plant ia more slender. It appears to be a splendid thing, bearing two or three flowers on a spike, but doubtless this number will soon be increased as the plant gets distributed. O. cristatum. — This is not so showy as some species ; but it is, nevertheless, highly interesting, and well worth cultivating. Its flower-spikes are slender, often branched ; and the flowers yellowish, heavily blotched with purplish-brown ; the crest of the lip ia white, and in some varieties a large proportion oj the lip is also white. It flowers freely during the winter, and lasts a month or six weeks in perfection. The 0. cordatwn Groiip. O. cordatum. — A distinct species, found in Mexico and Guate. mala, and introduced to this country about 1837. In bulbs and foliage it some, what resembles O. maculatum, but is very distinct from that species. When well established it bears numerous erect spikes of flowers, the sepals and petals of which are about 1^ in. long, lanceolate, the apices being attenuate and often wavy. In colour they are very re. markable, being heavily blotched with a dark brown (in some varieties of peculiar rich, ness) on a ground colour of pale greenish -yell ow. The lip is heart, shaped, of a white c o 1 o ur, blotched, and often margined with brown, and furnished with a pubescent bilobed crest. It is a pretty and decidedly distinct species, well worth culture, as a contrast to the more brilliant-coloured kinds. In the "Botanical Magazine" this plant is confounded with 0. maculatum, which bears larger and yellower flowers. It is a free.flowering kind, which gives but little trouble to the cultivator, ita chief requirements being a cool and moist posi. tion, and plenty of water during the summer months. Good figures are given in Knowles & Wescott's " Floral Cabinet," 1. 100 ; " Botaui. cal Magazine," t. 4870; and " Pescatorea," t. 26. O. maculatum. — A free-blooming plant, very similar to the last in general habit, having bright green yollow-nerved leaves. As in 0. cordatum, the flower.spikea are simple and many-flowered, the sepals and petals being yellow barred and spotted with brown, as ia also the larger heart-shaped lip. It differs from 0. cordatum in the petals being broader than the sepala, the racemes being drooping not rigidly erect. The lower bracts aro half as long, and the upper quite as long aa the ovary, and the double-toothed appendage, which stands at the very base of the lip in 0. cordatum, ia here wanting. A good flgure will be found in " Pescatorea," t. 28. 0. madrense. — This is one of the most distinctly beautiful of all Odoatoglots, and has recently been introduced in a living state by Messrs. Yeitch, and it was exhibited a year ago by Mr. Wrigley, of Bury, and the Rev. J. B. Norman, of Edgware, nnder the name of O. maxillare. The pseudo-bulbs are sub-cylindrical, terminated by bright green leaves, and the flowers, which are borne on compressed scapes, are similar in shape to those of 0. maculatum, but stouter in Oaontoglossnm cirrhosum. 110 THE GARDEN. [July 29, 1876. substance, and of a pnre white colour blotched with dark chocolate, purple, while the bilobed crest is snfFused with lemon-j allow. The flowers last from si.'c weeks to two months in beauty, and are most deliciously fragrant, like essence of Almonds. With the exception of those belonging to the Jliltonia-flowered group, this plant is one of the most distinct and handsome of all Odontoglots, and only its pre- sent scarcity prevents its becoming a general favourite. Dr. Hooker, in figuring this plant for the " Botanical Magazine," t. 6144, mistook it for the 0. maxillare of Lindley, a very different plant, having the membranous flowers with centrifugal markings so characteristic of 0. Cervantesi, from which it is known by the wing. less column and much larger yellow crest. It is a native of Mexico, and grows well treated like its allies. The 0. cifrosmuM Group. 0. citrosmutu. — A plant of peculiar habit, well known in gar. dens under this name,having been introduced from Guatemala in 1840 ; pseudo-bulbs large and shining, two-leaved. Flower-spikes pendu. lous, bearing from fifteen to thirty large fragrant blossoms. It flowers in May and June, and lasts a month in perfection. This species will be found to grow best in the warm end of the house, among the Cattleyas and Miltonias. O. citrosmum roseum. — A noble form of the above, having large, rosy. tinted sepals and petals, and a rosy .purple lip. A plant of 0. citrosmum roseum in the collection of Dr. Ainsworth, of Higher Broughton, near Manchester, has borne fifty. two flowers on a single. branched spike. Mr. W. Mitchell grows this plant remark, ably well, and when in good health few plants are more beautiful or distinct. It is the 0. pendulum of Lindley, a name derived from the graceful way in which the spikes droop from the base of the bulbs. O. Erameri. — A very pretty little species from Costa Rica, related to 0. pendulum. Its pseudo.bulbs are flat, one.leaved flower.spikes from two to three flowered ; flowers rather smaller than those of 0. citrosmum (pendulum), and more delicately tinted ; sepals and petals oblong, white, suffused with flesh-colour ; lip reniform, of a soft flesh-colour, having a yellow crest, below which occurs two undulating transverse brown lines ; the lip is also dotted with purple. Grows well in peat and Sphagnum in the warm end of the house. In a small pot and suspended near the light in a warm Cattleya house, this plant thrives well, and often produces two or throe spikes from the base of the last made growth, and few species have more delicately beautiful flowers. It is by no means a showy plant, but one likely to please amateurs. Tlte 0. Rossi G-ruup. O. Kossi. — A beautiful species, of dwarf habit j pseudo.bulbs angular, rather larger than those of 0. Cervantesi, which it resembles inhabit; scapes from one to three-flowered; flowers from 1 in. to 2 in. across ; sepals lanceolate, about 1 in. long, white, barred with brown transversely ; petals sub. hastate, much broader than the sepals, pure white, with a few spots at their bases only ; lip oblong or cordate, pnre white, with a lemon.yellow bilobed crest ; column white ; a delicate, free. flowering plant, blooming during the winter, and lasting from three to four weeks. It is a native of Mexico. O. Rossi superbum. — This select variety is a better form, having larger flowers than the typical species. Its flowers are from 2 in. to 3 in. across, barred with crimson, very distinct and effective. O. Kossi Warnerianum. — This is another Une form, having pseudo.bulbs 2 in. high ; flowers from three to five, on a scape longer thau the leaves, 2 in. to 3 in. across, with broad segments; sepals and petals pure white, barred and blotched with purple at the base ; lip cordate, orenate, white, with a golden crest. The two last.named varieties bear very largo and handsome flowers quite out of proportion to the pigmy habit of the plants, and these last fully a month in flower. O. Cervantesi. — A very pretty dwarf species, introduced from Western Mexico in 1845, and often known in gardens as O. mem. branaccum. It has small, angular, one.leaved, psendo.bnlbs, and produces aflowcr-spike from 4 in. to 6 in. long, bearing four or five delicate membranaceous flowers, more or less of a soft, rosy colour. The bases of tho floral segments are marked with transverse bars of brown or browuish.orimson ; tho lip is white. It is a pretty little species, well worth growing, and lasts from three to four weeks in flower. There is a very large and handsome variety of this plant grown in gardens under the name of 0. mombranaceum roseum, the flowers being from 2 in, to 3 in. in diameter, and borne five or six together at the apex of a 6.in. to S.in. high scape. Grown in small pots, these form attractive decorative plants, but if over-potted or massed together, in order to make " specimen" plants, they almost invariably fail. They may be grown on flat blocks, but require a plentiful supply of moisture. O. Ehrenbergi. — Reichenbach describes this as one of the prettiest of all the white-lipped species in this group, and remarks that in habit it is hardly distinguishable from 0. Rossi, but it seems to be of dwarfor habit, and bears smaller, narrower.petalled flowers, while the crest of the lip is entire, not bilobed, and white instead of yellow. It is a free.blooming species, and well deserves a place in all collections, its flowers being produced in autumn and winter, and lasting a month or more in beauty. The 0. nchulosuiu Groiijj. 0. nebulosum. — This is a large.flowered species, that succeeds perfectly under the coolest of indoor treatment. In its native habitat it is found at from 8000 ft. to 10,000 ft. elevation. Pseudo-bulbs roundish, two-leaved ; spikes stout, from five to seven flowered ; flowers from 2 in. to 4 in. across; sepals and petals from li in. to 2 in. long, 1 in. to If in. broad, oblong, slightly incurved, white, more or less spotted with brown ; lip cordate, with a lemon.yellow bilobed crest, and a few brown spots. When well grown it is a very ornamental plant, and there are several varieties which vary in the size and number of the brown blotches. The most distinct of these is 0. nebulosum candidum, a white form often met with in good collections, although it is not so highly valued as the spotted type. The 0. Uro-Skinnerl Group. O. Uro-Skirineri. — This has large, speckled, pseado.balbs and broad foliage, and is altogether distinct from most of the other species, both in habit and flower. Like most other Orchids it varies considerably in the size and colour of its flowers, some varietiesbeing very richly tinted. The sepals and petals are yellowish. green, more or less heavily blotched with purple-brown. The lip is broadish, cordate, of a white colour mottled with rose. This species grows well in the coolest house, but requires an abundant supply of moisture nearly all the year. It bears from ten to twenty flowers on spikes from 2 ft. to 3 ft. long, when well established and in good health. Good varieties of this plant are very effective when well grown, and of all the other species that can least withstand the evil effects of a dry atmosphere ; but placed in a cool, moist, and shady corner of tho house, it grows very rapidly, forming enormous , succulent bulbs and fresh, thick leaves, which are in due time succeeded by strong, arching flower.spikes. The best examples I have eeen of this plant were grown by Mr. Culley in a moist house without any fire. heat in summer, and under precisely the same cultural conditions as Disa grandiflora, both being syringed in summer several times a day. 0. Bictonense.- — This is another species from Guatemala, and one which bears numerous spikes during the winter and spring mouths. The spikes are from 18 in. to nearly 3 ft. high on good specimens, and bear fifteen to twenty flowers, which open in gradual succession. Some varieties produce branched spikes, while in other specimens the five or six simple spikes borno by each plant rush up straight and slender like culms of wheat, tho white, lilac, or rosy flowers being borne in two distinct rows along the upper half. This species and tho last form a group by themselves, almost as distinct in its way as that formed by 0. grande and 0. Insleayi, and both the species grow well under the same cool and moist conditions. The flowers measure about 1 in. across, and are of a yellow colour blotched with brown. The lip is often white, and sometimes of the deepest rose. It sports into several varieties, the best of which are very oruamental. The 0. coronarium Group. O. coronarium. — This is one of the coolest species wo have, coming from the Andes of Peru at an altitude of 8000 ft. Its large, wrinkled, flat bulbs are produced at intervals along a creeping rhizome, and bear a short, oblong leaf at the apex. Flower.spike erect, from 12 in. to IG in. high, bearing about thirty or forty flowers ; sepals and petals bright brown, margins yellow ; lip of a bright golden colour. Lasts a long time in flower. This plant flowered in 1872 in Lord Londesborough's collection, under tho care of Mr. Donning, for the first time, I believe, in this country, although it has long been introduced. Tlio flower.spike was borne by tho third bulb back, not from tho last made growth. This plant bears very cool treatment, and is known in some nurseries and gardens as O. candelabrum, and also, more rarely, as 0. brevifolium. Grows well in peat and Moss in a flat pan suspended near the light. Flowers from March to May. July 29, 1876.] THE GARDEN. Ill The 0. pidchellum Group. O. pulclielluin. — This pretty little white-flowered species from Mexico was introduced some time before 1841. There are several varieties of it, some bearing flower.spikea very little larger than those of the Lily of the Valley, while others bear flowers an inch in diameter. The sepals and petals are of a pure crystalline white ; the lip is bent nearly at right angles, and has a crest shaped like a W, of a golden or lemon. yellow colour,' spotted with crimson ; the flowers are borne nine or ten together on erect spikes, among dark. Grass-like leaves ; it is a profuse bloomer when thoroughly esta- blished, and its fragrant flowers form a very elegant addition to bouquets. It lasts a month or even six weeks in perfection. The smallest form is known in gardens under the name of 0. Egertoni. anum, and of slender habit, bearing erect spikes of drooping Lily. of. the-Valley-like flowers. 0. pulchellum grandiflornm is the best form and bears flowers over 1 in. in diameter, these being of snowy white- ness, with a soft lemon-yellow bloteh on the disc. Well-grown plants are very useful, as they produce a plentiful supply of flowers for cutting during the winter and spring months. The 0. rosemn Group. O. roseum. — This is but little known at present, although one of the oldest and prettiest of the entire group. Messrs. Backhouse and Sons, of Tork, have been fortunate enough to introduce it within the last few years. Pseudo-bulbs ovoid, two. leaved ; leaves ob-lanceolate, about a foot long ; spike arched or drooping, from ten to twenty, flowered ; flowers about an inch across, and of a uniform deep rosy- crimson colour, the apex of the colour only being white. When well grown this is one of the most elegant and effective of all the species, its slender spikes of bright rosy flowers drooping gracefully among the dark glossy leaves. In size of flower and general habit this plant comes near the O. pulchellum group, but in general appearance it might readily be mistaken for a Mesospinidium, the habit being iden- tical, and the form and colour of the flowers very similar. It is a native of Peru, and shoald be in all collections. The 0. rjrande Group. O. grande. — Though an old, this is a truly magnificent species, which blooms during the autumn and winter months. This, 0. Insleayi, 0. citroamum, 0. Krameri, and 0. Phalisnopsis, like a few degrees more heat than the generality of Odontoglots, and will be found to succeed better in a Cattleya house, or in an intermediate temperature, rather than in the cool house. 0. Phalasnopsis is especially sensitive to either extremes of temperature, or to stagnant moisture. Well-established plants of 0. grande make fine subjects for exhibition, and produce very large flowers of golden yellow, heavily blotched and barred, which are in great profusion when the plant is well grown. Pew other Odontoglossums are as effective as this, and it has the good quality of retaining its gorgeous beauty for a considerable period. O. ScUieperianum is a distinct, summer-blooming variety of 0. grande, bearing rather smaller and more pallid flowers, while in structure these are somewhat intermediate between 0. grande and 0. Insleayi. These three types form a very distinct section of the Odontoglossa, their habit of growth being nearly identical. O. Insleayi. — This plant mainly differs from 0. grande in having smaller flowers with a narrower and more intense golden lip, and it well deserves a place as a useful winter-blooming plant. When well grown it is a profuse bloomer, and the contrast between the apple- green-brown barred sepals and petals, and the vivid golden lip is most striking. It succeeds under the same treatment as 0. grande. The best variety is 0. Insleayi leopardinum, a brighter coloured form recently introduced in quantity by Messrs. Backhouse & Sons, of Tork, and which is by them very successfully cultivated in a sunny Mexican house, where a minimum of shading material is used, even during the hottest of summer weather. This variety is so superior in every way to the typical plant, that it should be grown in pre- ference to it. Orris Root (Irisflorentina).— As maybe seen even in the "Divina Corn- media," cant. xTi., the ancient arms of Florence was a white Iris on a red shield, which were subsequently altered, the Bed Iris or Lily (giaggiolo) now being on a white shield. This probably indicates an early caltivation of Orris- root near Florence. In the early ages, that of Illyria was held to be the best ("Pharmacographia," p. 699), and was still quoted in many of the German, lists under notice. In that of Schweinfurt, in 1614, Radix Iridis FlorentinEe. however, is the only one mentioned, — *' Pharmaceutical Journal," THE F R U IT GARDEN. FRUIT TREES FOR GABLE-ENDS AND "WASTE WALL SPACES. When we look around l^s and see the immense strides which the culture of fruit trees has taken, both in this country and on the Continent, during the last quarter of a century, we are apt to imagine that the art of growing fruit has not only ar- rived at its highest perfection, but that it has also reached its very fullest extension. If, however, we look a little more closely into the matter, we shall find reason for reconsidering this too favourable verdict. For many years past we have heard around us nothing but speculations as to where fruit trees should be grown next, such has been the spread of fruit cultivation both under glass and in the open air. Many, however, believe that large planters of fruit trees will, in time' have to transform their superabundant material into Pea sticks, props, and other supports ; but these are false prophets who do not seem to realise the fact that tfhe taste for growing fruit is be- coming more and more popular every day, and that the system of high culture, although it does not limit the number of years of production, shorteias the existence of the tree, and that the crowded plantations of oblique, vertical, crossed, and U-shaped cordons, so justly and generally adopted now-a-days, require a larger number of trees than the old system. But what the greater majority of that class fail to see is, that there are great numbers of wasted positions which could be easily utilised for fruit-growing. _ The Belgians have justly earned the repu- tation of not leaving a single corner of their country uncul- tivated ; and one of their number, M. Burvenich, Professor of the State Horticultural School at Ghent, urges that the gable-walls of buildings of all kinds might be much more freely utilised than they are for growing fruit trees, and that, too, with a minimum of trouble and expense. M. Burvenich has already done good service to the cause of fruit culture by strongly advocating, both verbally and by means of his pen, the advisability of planting school playgrounds with fruit trees, and his efforts have met with successful responses in numerous cases. In a small pamphlet, published at Ghent, M. Burvenich gives a description of his system, of which the following is a translation : — But (asks our author, speaking of his own country) are there no other waste places where we can grow fruit trees ? What numbers of school-yards are there not open to fruit-tree plantation now that the question, which has been examined both from the schoolmaster's and cultivator's point of view, has been solved by numberless favourable re- sults. When there are no more orchards to plant, when all our school playgrounds are full of trees laden with fruit, under the welcome shade of whose foliage the school children disport themselves, when the country roads are bordered with fruit trees, as in France and Germany, when the meadows shall be intersected by rows of Pear trees, we shall still not have too many fruit trees, for the gable-walls of our houses, farm build- ings, barns, stables, and coach-houses will still remain at our service. In the case of farms, communities, villas, and cottages, even those iahabited by farm labourers or workmen, there is gene- rally at least one wall, if not more, which will serve for fruit growing. These wasted, or little used gable-walls are specially suited to fruit culture, and if used for growing pro- perly selected kinds, will yield their proprietor a large profit. By training fruit trees against the gable-walls of houses, there is no need to fear the drippings from the roof, which so inju- riously affect fruit trees trained against the side-walls of houses unprovided with gutters. It generally happens, too, that the soil being almost in a virgin condition, is naturally favourable to the growth of the trees. In such situations the soil is generally rich, and is (as a rule) made ground, having been well disturbed and turned over in digging the foundations of the building, besides being frequently mixed with lime- rubbish, one of the most favourable ingredients in a soil intended for the growth of fruit trees. The triangular form of the gables themselves also will naturally equalise the espaliers which are proposed to be trained against them ; besides which, these gable-walls being pretty extensive would allow wide- spreading, tall-stemmed espaliers. 112 THE GARDEN. [July 20, 1876. The utilisation of gable-walls offers another advantage which is particularly important, inasmuch as they are not only useful as a new source for producing fruit for the market or shop, but still more so for good stock fruit, of which there is genei-ally a great scarcity amongst consumers, and which besides yields a large profit to the grower, being .sold at so much per fruit and at a high price. It would be wasting time and the space at our command to discuss at any length the difficulty of growing stock fruit in the open orchard or field in which the trees are exposed to the inclemency of the weather on all sides. If the blossoms escape being destroyed or injured by the cold of late springs, and the fruit does not spot or crack in summer, we have still to dread the equinoctial gales of September, which bring to the ground even the roost vigorously-grown frnit at a time when they require at least two months' addi- tional ripening. The system we are advocating is not only meant to be adopted as a means of procuring a few early Pears or Apples, but to effect a much more solid improvement in fruit growing. It is intended, as may be easily perceived, to produce results very much greater than can be obtained iu the orchard on the one hand, or in the fruit garden on the other. It is clear, however, that it is only those gable ends which are exposed to the proper aspect which will yield a superior result, those which are not so favourably situated as regards sunlight being reserved for early sorts of good quality. Cultivation of the Pear on Gables. CnoicE OP Sorts. — Of all fruit trees the Pear tree is the best fitted for this form of culture. It is easily grown, always succeeds, allows itself to be trained into almost any form, and yields fruit which always commands a ready sale. It may be grown in almost any soil, and produces varieties which suit almost any aspect. Thus, tor a gable-wall, with a southerly, south-easterly, or south-westerly aspect, a high-stemmed espalier of the Doyenne d'Hiver is most suitable, without, at the same time, excluding several others, the names of which will be given farther on. We propose this kind, however, for the object we have in view, because it is one of the very late Pears, besides being of excellent quality, and always command- ing a ready sale in the market. It is well known that neither the Doyenne d'Hiver nor the BergamottedePentecoto succeeds well when grafted on a Quince stock, and that in many soils the tree languishes, after having blossomed freely, promised greatly, and produced no fruit. To succeed well in the culture of this Pear, it must be grafted on a free stock, and be trained against a well-exposed wall, with plenty of elbow-room, that is to say, it must have plenty of space to develop laterally. Under these conditions it will grow luxuriantly, and will give abundance of fruit. As a rule, gable-walls of this aspect are completely wasted instead of being more or less covered with Calebasse d'Bte, Jargonelle, Gratioli, or Bon Chretien d'Espagne Pears. Gable-walls facing the west should be used for high- stemmed espaliers of the Poire de Tongres (Durondeau), one of those varieties which, although it grows well in an orchai'd, increases rapidly in size, depth of colouring, and quantity, when grown on a wall with a western aspect ; it becomes, in fact, quite another fruit, both in appearance and flavour. For gable-walls facing the east, the Beurrd Diel succeeds best. It is another example of a Pear tree which only becomes really prolific wheu it has plenty of room to develop its branches, the fruit of which, if exposed to the free action of the air, the cold, and the rain, remains small, becomes covered with spots and cracks, the flesh at the same time losing its mellowness and becoming gritty. The Beurru Die), when grafted on a tall, free stock, will easily cover the whole of a large gable-wall, and yield large, handsome, and well-flavoured fruit. The north is the worst aspect of all. Good fruit, however, can be cultivated on a gable-wall facing that quarter, provided it be pretty open. The tree must be planted on a mound, and the soil must bo made very porous by laying a foundation of rough stono3 and filling in with soil mixed with sifted lime rubbish and ashes. The best variety for cultivation in this position is the Beurrd d'Amanlis, which will give good results in spite of the unfavourableness of the situation. The BeurrcS d'Amanlis is tho very type of vigorous and beautiful growth. Its long and thick branches grow with perfect freedom, and will spread over a large surface if properly trained and tied or nailed, making a large quantity of wood every year. It is no rare occurrence to be able easily to form as many as three sets of branches in one year, always provided that the stem is suffi- ciently solid. The Beurre d'Amanlis has this in common with most pendulous varieties, that when the shoots are ti'ained to grow horizontally, or even upright, they fruit much earlier. The Mario Louise, the Nouvelle Fiilvie, the Poire de Cure, the Triomphe de Jodoigne, and several others, resemble the Beurre d'Amanlis in this respect. As may be seen, if the Beurre d'Amanlis fruit but slowly when grown in an orchard, no fault can be found with it in this respect when gi-own against a gable-wall. We give these four varieties as suitable for gable- walls facing the four different quarters with the certainty that they cannot fail to yield the maximum of profit. We cordially admit, however, that there are many other sorts of Pears which will give excellent results when planted against .gable- walls, but their selection depends entirely ou the tastes and wants of the growers. The following arrangement will be found excellent : — Fora north aspect, Williams' Bon Chretien, a Pear which is most popular amongst those fruiterers who know it ; it will always sell well, and profitably. This Pear is sometimes objectionable from giving off too strong an odour of Musk, and that in proportion as it is more or less directly exposed to the sun, or the length of time it remains on the tree before arriving at maturity. Planted in a northern aspect there is no need to fear this defect, and the fruit will always be of good quality. For a western gable-wall the Louise Bonne d'Avranches may be chosen. This Pear, which grows easily everywhere, even facing the north, always gives a good supply of fruit when planted as an espalier with a western aspect, and displays all its best qualities, yielding large, highly-coloured fruit, with a surface as smooth as if they had been polished with oil ; tho flavour is sweet, combined with a certain amount of sharpness, strongly impregnated with the flavour of the Bergamotte. It fruits abundantly and long, and is a healthy, vigorous tree. There is but little to choose between the Marie Louise and the Poire de Tongres. For an eastern gable-wall the Duchesse d'Angoulerae is an excellent variety. This is one of the first Pears that people learn to cultivate, notwithstanding which it is not exactly faultless. In an open orchard, exposed to high winds, this Pear never attains its normal size, a characteristic which always gives it an increased vajue in the market. As a pyramidal or double espalier the blossom is liable to be injured by bad weather, so that this kind often fails to redeem its early promises, the smallest amount of wind causing the fruit to drop off before re.aching maturity. Tho beautiful specimens of tho Duchesse d'Augouleme Pear which every one admires so much at our fruit shows are all grown on espaliers. It is, in fact, only ou walls exposed to the proper aspect that a large quantity of such fruit of first-rate quality can be regu- larly grown. It often happens that many of these Pears, when growing in favourable positions, are obliged to bo held np by a cord or supported on a bracket to prevent them from falling off the tree by their own weight. For gable-walls with a southern aspect the Passe Colraar is admirably adapted, especially when grown as a wide-branch- ing espalier on a free stock. This variety, when grown as small trees, requiring to be grafted on the Quince stock, and to bo frequently pruned, is sterile, or at any rate the yield is intermittent and irregular. We know of a specimen of tho Passe Colmar, which covers an ordinary-sized gable-wall, and yields annually on an averago 400 fine Pears. Estimatingtheso as each worth one penny in the market, wo have 33s. (id. for the yield of one moderately-sized gable-wall. If a Vine had been planted in the place of the Pear tree it would possibly have produced a small crop of half-ripe Grapes, or, as more frequently occurs, it might have been altogether barren of fruit. To sum up, if we grow Williams' Bon Chretien on tho north, Louise Bonne d'Avranches on the west, Duchesse d'Angouleme on tho east, and Passe Colmar on the south, wo have a choice of four excellent second-class Pears, which are so good that it may well be asked why they are not placed in JiTLT 29, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 113 the first rank, a state of tilings which can be only accounted for by the fashion of the day and love of novelty. We may choose other varieties, and allow ourselves a certain amount of latitude to suit local tastes and requirements of the market or the consumer ; for instance, a tall-stemmed Beurre d'Harden- pont, grown in a good situation, is not to be despised, and Beurre Sterckmans may be substituted for Beurre Diel. In the same way a Beurre Dumont may very well replace the Poire de Tongres, and the Beurre Hardy, a tree of vigorous habit, and fully deserving its name, may be counted on to yield good fruit, ripening in September when placed against a north wall. The Beurre Hardy closely resembles our oldjBeurre Gris, one of the varieties which are rapidly passing away. If the grower possess several buildings he may thus cultivate several kinds, but we have thought it necessary to point out to our readers the best sorts for the purpose. lu addition to this we shall give a list of all the Pears which can be cultivated with profit against gable-walls of different aspects, in the order of their merit, so that the grower need not fear to be led into the error of cultivating common or mediocre kinds. Forms of Training. It will not be necessary to enter into any very detailed description of the best forms of espalier for gable-walls. The most useful form, except in the case of perfectly blank walls, is the tall-stemmed espalier. This will be found to be especially useful in the case of farms and school playgrounds, where low espaliers would only throw unnecessary temptation in the way. If, however, it be found advisable to grow low espaliers, it will be necessary to surround them with a lattice- fence. The extra expense involved in this protection is made up for by the increased yield of fruit, besides which the enclosure may be used for growing early Chervil, Eadishes, small salads, or any plant that will not interfere with the growth of the trees. Another arrangement may be made, in which the lower part of the gable-wall is occupied by two dwarf espaliers, which may differ in kind from each other and from the large espalier, thus obtaining three varieties of fruit from the same gable-wall. It will thus be seen that it is not very difficult to cover our waste gable-walls with fruit trees, which would not only cover our tables or help to fill our pockets, but which would form admirable ornamental substi- tutes for ugly, weather-stained, unprofitable, blank walls. By planting two trees, one on each side of the door, it is easy to cover the gable-wall in a way that is at once advan- tageous and extremely elegant. The tree planted to the right of the door covers the left side of the gable-wall, the tree on the left being trained over the right side of the wall. If there be a garret window in the gable the two main stems can be trained around it. Low gable-walls, which give but a small amount of angular surface, may be covered by dwarf Palmetto Verriers. Buildings with Dutch roofs, or with square walls which are not gabled, and square spaces unpierced with win- dows or doors, may be filled with Palmetto Verriers. We should advise those who commence this system of fruit culture merely as amateurs to cover the upper part of their gable- walls with tall-stemmed espaliers, and to fill up the space below the lower branches with single or double U-shaped vertical cordons. Cordons trained in this way will yield fruit much earlier, besides the great facility afforded to grow several varieties. The gable-walls of the smallest buildings may be covered by single or double cordons, or else by both kinds grown side by side, the odd numbers being single and the even numbers double, taking care to regraft all their extremi- ties. For very small gable-walls the preference should be given to a half-high-stemmed Pear tree grafted level with the ground on a Quince stock. It is well known that Beun-e Sterckmans, Esperen, Bergamotte, Beurre Diel, Poire de Tongres, Beurre d'Amanlis, and Louise Bonne d'Avranches, when grafted on a Quince stock, are sufficiently strong to form high and half -high stems, and throw out a satisfactory number of prolific fruit-bearing branches. If it be desirable to cultivate kinds which show more or less antipathy to the Quince stock, a good wood-forming variety should be grown half -high, which should again be'regrafted^with the kind you wish to grow. In case it is necessary to grow two trees against a gable- wall, and it is feared thatj the trees will be too luxuriant for the smal amount of surface to be covered by each tree, varieties on Quince stocks may be introduced with great advantage. As will be seen from the foregoing remarks, it is always possible to utilise gable-walls for fruit-growing, no matter what may be their aspect, form, or arrangement as to doors and windows. The examples and plans that have been given will enable both amateurs and professionals, with a small amount of ingenuity, to invent combinations that will suit gable-walls of all shapes, whether pierced with one or many windows or doors. A plan to Fcale of the gable-wall should first of all be drawn on paper, and experiments made until the best method of filling up the vacant spaces is arrived at. When the openings merely serve to light or ventilate a coach- house or some uninhabited room, they should be ignored in the general plan, the trees being trained over them. In planning new buildings ib is as well to bear in mind that the gable- walls ought to be covered with fruit trees, so that the openings may be arranged in the most suitable manner for the trees to have plenty of room to grow without being forced into un- natural shapes. In urging on the grower the importance of giv- ing his trees a pleasing form, we do not mean to say that they must necessarily be rigidly symmetrical. It should not be forgotten, however, that, in order to fill up every vacant space, the branches should be at least 10 in. or 12 in. from one another. There is another method of covering a gable-wall which is diametrically opposed to those forms already recommended, viz., a double espalier with reversed branches. This system has been adopted by M. Dolivot, a French fruit grower, who thus describes a gable-wall covered with a couple of trees grown by his method : — " The gable-wall of a small building serving as a bakehouse, and in the middle of which is situated the entrance-door, may be covered by means of a double espalier. Two high-stemmed trees are planted, one on the right, the other on the left of the door. As far as the top of the door the branches are so arranged as to form a sort of curtain, composed of three vertical cordons grafted on to a horizontal cordon at the base. The double rectangular curtain having been formed, the space above the door and reaching up into the gable is formed as follows : — Level with the top of the door a long branch is trained in a horizontal direction about 12 in. above the top of the door, crossing the corresponding branch belonging to the other side in the middle, and reaching nearly to the angle of the gable. These two branches are then laid upwards at a distance of about 12 in. apart until they reach within 2 ft. of the angle of the roof. Starting from this point, the formation of the curtain which is to fill up the two vacant halves of the space on each side is commenced, the vertical cordons being grafted on to the horizontal cordons, which lie level with the top of the door when fully grown. Finally, the two parent branches are grafted together by unit- ing the top of each shoot. This completes the whole of the work, and the gable-wall will be now completely covered with a gracefully trained espalier, fully repaying the pains and labour bestowed upon it." M. Dolivot's mode of covering a gable-wall may not be so suitable as several of those which we have already described, inasmuch as it involves more labour in grafting than most amateurs care for, or professionals can afford to give ; but it matters little which method be adopted, there will always be a full yield of good and handsome fruit. In these remarks we have kept exclusively in view the utilisation of wasted gable- walls, but we may remind the reader that all vacant wall spaces, no matter where found, may be fully utilised. The smallest square spaces between windows may be devoted to small subjects, the larger spaces being filled in like manner. A square front with two windows can likewise be covered with a Pear tree grown according to M. Dolivot's plan of downward training and double grafting. This method of training and grafting fruit trees may seem difficult or even impossible to those who are unacquainted with M. Dolivot's system ; we, therefore, recur once more to this horticulturist's own words : • — "According to this system an espalier is planted between two windows in the middle of a pier 4 ft. 6 in. wide, and trained against the side wall of a small house about 20 ft. long. From the branch planted in the middle of the pier, at a height of 1 ft. from the ground, two horizontal cordons are led un der- 114 THE GARDEN. [July 29, 1876. neath each witidow to the right aad left, and are intended to serve as correlative cordons. About 3 ft. higher up two lateral shoots are trained horizontally, so as to form on each side of the stem the starting point of a square curtain, composed of seven perpendicular cordons, the lower extremities of which are grafted into the correlative cordon underneath the windows. The central stem rises 1 ft. above the level of the top of the windows, and from this point start three cor- dons, which descend perpendicularly (one along the central stem itself, and the other.->, one on each side, 1 ft. from the central stem), and are grafted on to the first horizontal cordon when they are long enough. At the point where these two last-mentioned cordons leave the horizontal direction for the perpendicular, two shoots should be allowed to grow which should be trained horizontally over the windows, and, when long enough, allowed to descend perpendicularly, so as to enclose the windows in a kind of frame. When fully grown, they are grafted into the branch which lies immediately under the windows. About 1 ft. above this last cordon, another and a parallel cordon surrounds it horizontally at first, and then perpendicularly, and when long enough is grafted into both the lower horizontal cordons." This is not the proper place to discuss the merits of M. Dolivot's system. Whether his will or will not play an im- portant part in the future history of fruit cultivation, can have but little influence on the system of turning unused gable- walls to profit, by whatever method of training the fruit grower may find it advisable to adopt. We again repeat that the object of this system is to cover the vacant space as completely as possible, at the same time taking care to preserve the proper distance between each cordon. Train the cordons as far as they will go, and out them as little as possible, and you will soon cover your barren walls with masses of rich fruit. There is another method of covering small and moderate- sized gable-walls by means of superposed espaliers. The expression, is, perhaps, hardly a correct one, but it must be used, for no other so fully explains the idea and the object to be gained. It may happen that the gable-wall is so high that it cannot be completely and rapidly covered by one espalier only. In this and similar cases, the tree being trained in the Palmetto Verrier form, the head is grafted, and the branches of the graft are trained horizontally, or nearly so. The graft should be of some variety that is somewhat wanting in vigour, but displaying great fruit-yieldmg qualities. The tree can be formed of two varieties, one growing over the other upon the same stock. The lower portion should be of a strong, robust description, such as Beurre Diel, Beurro Kance, Triomphe de Jodoigno, Beurre Sterckmans, Conseiller de la Cour ; the upper should consistof a prolific kind, showing but an ordinary amount of vigour, such as ]3eurr6 Clairgeau, Louise Bonne d'Avranches, and Williams' Bon Chretien. The form of the upper espalier should, of course, be suitable for the method of training. A wall of this description should bo completely covered with a single tree formed of the two varieties, one of which is of vigorous habit, spreading over the square portion of the gable- wall ; the other, of weaker habit, with horizontally trained branches filling up the angle of the gable. We do not wish to stray from our subject, which we have already treated at some length, but we think that a new system of fruit culture, which will be to some extent a corollary to the plan of utilising waste gable-walls, may find its proper place in this treatise; wo allude to the tall-stemmed double espalier. In the country it is frequently customary to place near the dwelling-house, especially where the front is exposed to the full rays of the sun during the greater part of the day, a screen of high-stemmed trees to keep the sunlight from playing too strongly on the house-front. Various trees are used for this purpose, such as the Lime, the Elm, the Ro- binia, and many others, and nurserymen grow large quan- tities of these trees with tall stems for the especial purpose ; but the same object may bo attained by growing fruit trees on the same plan, that is to say, with tall stems, and training them in the shape of a fan. The branches should be slightly oblique and trained against a number of galvanised iron wires stretched botwcen posts, which will sustain the young trees during the first few years of their growth. We have seen the idea fully carried out in practice, and we have no hesitation in declaring that this mode of cultivation is most successful. The fruit trees which are best suited for this method of culture are strong Pear trees, Apple trees, and Bigarreau Cherry trees grafted on stout stocks. It would, indeed, be a pleasant sight to see our villas and cottages shaded with prolific fruit trees instead of Limes, Elms, or Eobinias generally clipped into hideous forms. But the cultivation of fruit trees on the double espalier system should not end here. It may be applied in the case of low walls, over which indiscreet neighbours are in the habit of peering. The space above the wall costs nothing, the only expense being that of the posts and wires." The author may have apparently given too much attention to the Pear tree, inasmuch as there are many other fruit trees which are as easily and profitably grown against waste gable-walls. In most cases, however, the preference must be given to the Pear, for not only is its cultivation extremely easy, but its fruit always commands a ready sale everywhere. It is, besides, one of the hardiest of our fruit trees, and suffers less from bad weather than any other. Let us, however, examine the best means of cultivating other fruit trees against our waste gable ends. The Peach, Apricot, and Cherry. A strong Peach seedling, or Peach grafted on a tall-stemmed Plum stock, may be grown against the south gable-wall, and will yield a good supply of fruit, always provided that the late frosts have not made havoc with the delicate young blos- soms. The Peohe d'Oignies, on a free stock, is a favourite sort for this mode of culture, aud we have seen a large gable- wall wholly covered with a Brugnon de Feliguy Seedling, and producing large quantities of beautiful fruit. A tall-stemmed Espalier Apricot, when it is not grafted on a Myrobalan but on a strong Plum seedling, succeeds well when grown against a south-east or even an east gable- wall, provided it be trained in the shape of a fan. At the Pomological Congress, lately held at Ghent, M. Baltet specially called attention to this method of growing Apricots on tall stems. The Apricot has the advantage of preferring paved or macadamised yards to the open ground. Planted in such situations its existence becomes prolonged. M. Delaville, professor of arboriculture at Beauvais, Oise, has justly called the Apricot the " city fruit tree." Grown against a gable-wall, the lower branches must be allowed to grow vigorously, and it must be trained to a fan- shape, or somewhat in the form of a Peacock's tail, but always on a tall stock. The Griotte Cherry is never so prolific as when grown on a tall stock. It may be grown against shaded walls, and will still yield abundance of fruit. The same may be said of the Cerise de Charmeux and the Belle de Chatenay. It is very possible that seeing the luxuriant growth of espaliers when trained against gable-walls, we might bo able to grow the finest varieties of the Bigarreau Cherry, especially those kinds which do not succeed when their growth is impeded. The Apple. We are so much accustomed to disdain the cultivation of the Apple anywhere but in an orchard, that (as j'et there have been but few experiments made in this direction) it is impos- sible to assert positively whether wo may or may not count on obtaining good results from long-stocked trees grown against a west or north wall. Varieties which do not thrive in an open orchard, such as the White Calvillo, the Reinette Blanche, the Reinette Grise, the Haute Bonte, aud similar first-class kinds, ought to have every chance of succeeding when grown against gable-walls. M. Charles Baltet (the greatest authority, perhaps, on the subject) declares that this mode of cultivation ought to meet with every success if the variety be grown on the Paradise stock instead of on the free stock. In any case it is beyond all doubt that we shall have to keep down the American blight more than when other methods of cultivation are adopted. M. le Chevalier de Bisoau D'Hautteville, the eminent pomologist, of Binche, whose authority is incontest- able, communicates the following particulars on the subject, quoting from an article on " Waste Gable-walls," published in the " Bulletin d' Arboriculture," for 1876, p. 14- : — " I agree with M. F. Burnevich in considering that the cultivation of the Apple outside the orchard is too much neglected, or, to July 29, 1876.] THE GARDEN. ns speak roundly, neglected altogether. As far as my experience goes in 'growing the above-mentioned varieties on walls, exposed to the west, I have great pleasure in informing you that I have met with the greatest success. At this moment I have a long terrace situated on the ancient fortifications of Binche, about 70 ft. above the ground, and facing the west, upon which is growing an espalier of the white Calville variety, the upper portion of which is trained along the top of the wall for a distance of 12 ft. or 15 ft. The tree is nearly forty years old, and is grafted on a free stock. It pro- duces magnificent fruit of a pale yellow colour, nearly always tinged with carmine on the side next the sun. They have a delicious flavour, and keep well from July to September. On the same wall there is another variety growing called the Unique, but it receives only a couple of hours of sunshine. I also get excellent results from this young tree, which is grafted on a Paradise stock. At the foot of this terrace is the garden of two great fruit growers— MM. Eric and Emile Gregoire. In this garden is planted a Canada Keinette, twenty years old ; it is on a tall stock, and is trained against a north-west wall, ■where it receives but little sun. The soil is damp and cold, but it bears au abundance of fruit of enormous size, and is so beautiful that passers-by stop to admire the hanging clusters. I would add that I have also the Grey Canada Eeinette, Warner's King, the Queen Pippin, the large flat Eeinette, both on half-tall and tall stocks, in situations where they do not receive an hour's sun dnriug the whole day, besides which the wall is shaded by tall Cherry trees, and at about a couple of yards opposite to them there is a hedge of Raspberry canes. These drawbacks do not prevent our gathering an abundance of fine fruit. I hope shortly to be in a condition to state whether the White Calville will succeed under such unfavourable condi- tions, for I have already planted several trees against this same wall which are now two years old. I cannot con- clude this without urging on my colleagues the advisa- bility of increasing the cultivation of the Apple by making a fresh choice amongst the numerous and rich collec- tions to be found in the nurseries of our principal horticul- turists, for this tree is of easy culture, yields abundance of fruit, more varied in form, colour, and flavour even than the Pear, besides keeping longer and with less attention. I will not speak here of all the varieties which may be cultivated, and whose good qualities are known to all fruit growers. It is sufficient to mention the following : — Eoyal English Eeinette, St. Sauveur Calville, Grand Alexandre, Parmentier Eeinette. The following may be also mentioned as large-fruited late varieties : — Eosee du Matin, Wagener, St. Barbe, Tauben Apfel, Golden Noble, Eeinette Diel, Belmont, White Calville, Unique, Lelieur, Meriam, Duchesse do Brabant, Pomme de Prince, Guelton, Lorenzo Booth. The following are handsome small varieties : — Api rose, Api noir. Pigeon blanc de manger, Pigeon Lucas, Pigeon d'Oberdieok, Sops of Wine, Petite Emma, Pro- tiosa. We do not entirely recommend the cultivation of the Vine against gable-walls, except when the fan shape is abandctfied in favour of single or compound vertical cordons, according to the Thomery system. At the Chateau d'Oosterzeele, not far from Ghent, there are several large gable-walls facing the south and covered with black Mulberry trees, which produce abundance of fruit, although shaded by high copses which are close by. The cultivation of the Plum is not recommended for gable-walls. Special Treatment of Fruit Trees on Gable-walls. We have no need to enter into any explanations with regard to the pruning and other operations to be performed on trees grown on gable-walls, because they are the same as those practised on trees grown in other situations. Long-stemmed espaliers should have their stocks lime-whited every two years, and the first year they may be even covered up with straw. In situations where they are liable to be gnawed by cattle, the stems should be covered with a couple of boards nailed together in the form of a V. or by fixing two slips of wood covered with sharp nails on each side of the stock. Situa- tions not overshadowed by neighbouring trees should, as much as possible, be chosen, but where shadow is unavoidable, those varieties must be chosen which do not require much sunshine. Under such circumstances a south gable-wall may be planted with trees which thrive well in a northern or western aspect. The best way of attaching the branches to the walls is by slips of cloth. The branches, too, should be kept from touch- ing the wall by interposing pieces of cork or wood ; this pre- caution is absolutely necessary in cases where the branches lie against a wall which is strongly heated by flues or fireplaces. As for pruning, it is the same as for other trees, but as the upper portions of the branches are often difficult to get at, it will be as well to make use of the secateur. On account o£ the difficulties involved in the care of the Vine and Peach during the summer, and the great trouble in training, they are not to be recommended for cultivation against gable-walls. The special and constant pains which the Vine and Peach require, need not, however, preclude them entirely from this mode of cultivation by amateurs who have both time and patience at their disposal. MR. DAEWIN ON THE STRAWBEEET. This fruit is remarkable on account of the number of species which have been cultivated, and from their rapid improvement within the last fifty or sixty yeara. Let any one compare the fruit o£ one of the largest varieties exhibited at our shows with that of the wild Wood Strawberry, or, what will be a fairer comparison, with the some- what larger fruit of the wild American Virginian Strawberry, and he will see what prodigies horticulture has effected. The number of varieties has likewise increased in a surprisingly rapid manner. Only three kinds were known in France in 17-16, where this fruit was early cultivated. In 1766 five species had been introduced, the same which are now cultivated, but only five varieties of Fragaria vesca, with some sub-varieties, had been produced. At the present day the varieties of the several speciea are almost innumerable. The species consist of, firstly, the Wood or Alpine cultivated Strawberries, de- scended from F. vesca, a native of Europe and of North America. There are eight wild European varieties, as ranked by Dnchesne, of F. vesca, but several of these are considered species by some botanists. Secondly, the Green Strawberries, descended from the European F. collina, and little cultivated in England. Thirdly, the Hautbois, from the European F. elatior. Fourthly, the Scarlets, descended from F. virginiana, a native of the whole breadth oi North America. Fifthly, the Chili, descended from F. chiloensis, an inhabitant of the west coast of the temperate parts both of North and Sonth America. Lastly, the Pines or Carolinas (including the old Blacks), which have been ranked by most anthora_ under the name of F. grandiflora as a distinct species, said to inhabit Surinam; but this is a manifest error. This form is considered by the highest authority, M. Gay, to be merely a strongly marked race of P. chiloensis. These five or six forms have been ranked by most botanists as specifically distinct ; but this may be doubted, for Andrew Knighf, who raised no leas than 400 crossed Straw, berries, asserts that the F. virginiana, chiloensis, and grandiflora " may be made to breed together indiscriminately," and he found, in accordance with the principle of analogous variation, "that similar varieties could be obtained from the seeds of any one of them." Since Knight's time there is abundant and additional evidence of the extent to which the American forms spontaneously cross. We owe, indeed, to such crosses most of our choicest existing varieties. Knight did not succeed in crossing the European Wood Strawberry with the American Scarlet, or with the Hautbois. 1^. Williams, of Pitmaston, however, succeeded ; but the hybrid off. spring from the Hautbois, though fruiting well, never produced seed, with the exception of a single one, which reproduced the parent hybrid form. Major R. Trevor Clarke informs me that Jie crossed two members of the Pino class (Mjatt's B. Queen, and Keen a Seedling) with the Wood and Hautbois, and in each case he raised only a single seedling ; one of these fruited, but was almost barren. Mr. W. Smith, of York, has raised similar hybrids with equally poor success. We thus see that the European and American species can with some difficulty be crossed, bat it is improbable that hybrids sufficiently fertile to be worth cultivation will ever be thus produced. This fact is surprising, as these forms structurally are not widely distinct, and are sometimes connected in the districts where they grow wild, as I hear from Piofessor Asa Gray, by puzzling inter, mediate forms. The energetic culture of the Strawbei-ry is of recent date, and the cultivated varieties can in most cases be classed under some one of the above native stocks. As the American Strawberries cross so freely and spontaneously, we can hardly doubt that they will nltimately become inextricably confused. We find, indeed, that horticulturists 116 THE GARDEN. [JcLT 29, 1876. at present disagree under which clasa to rank some few of the varie ties, and a writer in tho " Bon Jardinier," of 1840, remarks that for- merly it was possible to class all of them under some one Bpeciea, but that now this is quite impossible with the American forms, the new English varieties having completely filled up the gaps between them. Tho blending together of two or more aboriginal forms, which there is every reason to believe has occurred with some of oar anciently cultivated productions, we see now actually occurring with our Strawberries. The cultivated species oiler some variations worth notice. Tho Black Prince, a seedling from ICeen's Imperial (this latter being a seedling of a very white Strawberry, the white Carolina), is remarkable from its peculiar dark and polished surface, and from presenting an appearance entirely unliko that of any other kind. Although the fruit in the different varieties differs so greatly in form, size, colour, and quality, the so-called seed (which corresponds with the whole fruit in the Plum), with the exception of being more or leas deeply embedded in the pulp, is, according to De jonghe, absolutely the same in all, and this no doubt may be accounted for by the seed being of no value, and consequently not having been sub- jected to aelection. The Strawberry ia properly three-leaved, but in 1761 Duchesne raised a single-leaved variety of the European Wood Strawberry, which Linrroua doubtfully raised to the rank of a species. Seedlings of this variety, like those of most varieties not fixed by long-continued selection, often revert to the ordinary form, or present intermediate states. A variety raised by Mr. Myatt, apparently belonging to one of the American forms, presents a varia. tion of an opposite nature, for it^has five leaves; Godron and Lam. bertyo also mention a five-leaved variety of F. collina. The Red Bush Alpine Strawberry (one of the E. vesca section) does not pro- duce stolons or runners, and this remarkable deviation of structnio is reproduced truly by seed. Another sub-variety, the White Bush Alpine, is similarly characterised, but when propagated by seed it often degenerates, and produces plants with runners. A Strawberry of tho American Pine section is said to make but few runners. Much has been written on the aexea of Strawberriea. The true Hautboia properly beara the male and female organa on separate plants, and was conaequently named by Duchesne dioica, but it fre- quently produces hermaphrodites ; and Lindley, by propagating such plauts by runners, ot the same time destroying the males, soon raised a self-prolific stock. The other species often showed a tendency towards an imperfect separation of the sexes, aa I have noticed with plants forced in a hot-house. Several English varieties, which in this country are free from any such tendency, when cultivated in rich soils under the climate of North America, commonly produce plants with separate sexes. Thus a whole acre of Keen's Seedlings in the United States has been observed to be almost sterile from tho absence of male flowers ; but the more general rule ia, that the male plants overrun the females. Some members of the Cincinnati Ilor. ticultnral Society, especially appointed to investigate this subject, report that " few varieties have the flowers perfect in both sexual organs," &c. The most successful cultivators in Ohio plant for every seven rows of "pistillata," or female plants, one row of hermaphro. ditos, which afford pollen for both kinds; but the hermaphrodites, owing to their expenditure in the production of pollen, bear less fruit than the female plants. The varieties differ in constitution. Some of our best English kinds, such as Keen's Seedlings, aie too tender for certain parts of North America where other English and many American varieties succeed i>errectly. That splendid fruit, the British Queen, can be cultivated but in few places either in England or France, but this apparently depends more on the nature of the soil than on the climate. A famous gardener says that "no mortal could grow the British Queen at Shrubland Park, unless the whole nature of tho soil was altered." La Constantino is one of the hardiest kinds, and can withstand Russian winters, but it is easily burnt by the Bun, so that it will not succeed in certain soils either in England or the United States. The Filbert Pine Strawberry " requires more water than any other variety; and if the plants once suffer from drought, they will do little or no good afterwards." Cuthill's Black Prince Strawberry evinces a singular tendency to mildew ; no loss than six caaea have been recorded of thia variety suffering severely, whilst other varieties growing close by, and treated in exactly tho Bame manner, were not at all infested by this fungus. Tho time of maturity differs much in tho different varieties ; some belonging to tho Wood or Alpine section produce a succession of crops throughout the summer. — " Animals and Plants under Domestication." TREES AND SHRUBS. Early and Forced Gooseberries.— A correspondent (" L. r>. ") would bo obliRod by informulion as to which in tlio carlicat kind ot GooRoboiTy, it any show a difforonco in this respect ; ho would also like lo know if the Gooseberry may ho forced with success in gontlo Uoat; and, i£ so, In what mannor best- in pots, or planted out. CHOICE CONIFERS IN PLANTATIONS. So far as I am aware, says a writer in the " Field," the idea of planting the more ornamental Conifers in quantity as plantations has not yet been carried out in this country in a manner worth mentioning. Single specimens have been planted freely in pleasure grounds and, in many cases, in woods, but large masses of any of the choicer kinds are uncommon. Now, looking at what can be accomplished in a landscape-gardening poiut of view, by planting other species in this way, one is tempted to ask if it would not be worth while to employ some of the best-growing and most useful of ornamental Conifers for similar purposes. Take the common Deodar, for example. For ornamental habit it has few equals, whether grown singly or in groups. It thrives in almost any soil or situation, and is at home where neither the common Spruce nor the Larch would succeed. It thrives in deep and in shallow soils of very different character, in a dry climate or a wet one ; and no Conifer with which I am acquainted stands exposure better or, perhaps, so well. Further, the wood is described as being strong, close-grained, durable, and in many respects excellent. Mixed conspicuously among other trees, or planted by itself on slopes, hillsides, ravines, or even on the plain, its appearance is strikingly effective. I have seen a bare glen transformed, as if by magic, into a scene of beauty by simply clothing it with Larch ; but the Deodar is far superior to the Larch, and is green all the winter, except when draped with snow, and then it is a study for an artist. Single specimens are very well in their place ; but they are paltry compared with a forest, or even a grove, of towering Pines. An avenue of Deodars planted at measured distances has a certain effect — a fine tree looks well anywhere — but it is dis- tinctly artificial. An avenue of Araucarias is still worse, for they are about the most formal-habited trees in existence, and when planted in rows this feature becomes disagreeably pro- minent. A belt of common Spruce and Fir trees mixed, planted thickly alonside a drive, but not too near it, is difficult to beat as regards effect ; and I submit that select Conifers should be planted in the same way when they are used for such purposes. There would always be a fringe down to the Grass at the margin of the wood, and there is nothing in tho least objectionable in the appearance of a Wellingtonia, a Deodar, or an Austrian Piue, for instance, rearing their heads in the background amidst a wealth of foliage varying in colour and general appearance. The few examples of this style of planting which I have seen were of a kind to impress ns very favourably. There is not the least objection to planting deciduous trees among Conifers under such circumstances, but they must be used judiciously, for, owing to their spreading habit, they are sure to take more than their sharo in the struggle for existence. In certain situations, how- ever; as, for instance, when it is desired to give a sub- Alpine character to a scene, they are better left out altogether. Another species suitable for general planting is Abies Nord- manniana, which also thrives and grows fast under very different conditions as regards soil and climate, and its timber is said to be the best among Silver Firs. In some places the Pine has been planted pretty extensively, and has thriven well. Of the Wellingtonia it is liardly necessary to speak, but its rapid growth and line appearance commend it as one of the best ; planted as a forest tree it would probably grow faster than when planted singly. A noticeable fact connected with this tree is the disproportionate thickness of tho trunk, which increases in girth at a quicker rate than that of other Conifers. Young trees of it, six or seven years old, have quite massive trunks for their age. I noticed a second-rate specimen ot it tho other day, about 12 ft. high, with a stem as thick, 1 ft. from the ground, as that of some Larches at thirty or forty years ot age, and the tree had not been planted above eleven or twelve years from the nursery ; but in good soil the tree in- creases considerably taster than this. The Douglas Fir is another tree that deserves notice on account of its valuable timber and ornamental appearance, but the list is too numerous to particularise hero ; suffice it to say that that their use has hardly as yet extended beyond the boundaries of our pleasure July 29, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 117 grouads, and that we have amongst them timber-producing trees of the most valuable description, and materials for fur- nishing the landscape with which the landscape gardener in this country has still to make himself acquainted. CO TONE AST EKS. By G. GORDON, A. L.S. CoTONEASTEES are free-growing, ornamental shrubs or small trees, which will thi-ive in any common gai'den soil, and, on account of their producing an abundance of fruit, which in mild seasons remains on the plants the greater part of the winter, are well suited for planting in all ornamental shrub- beries, while the dwarfer Evergreen kinds are admirably adapted for growing on rockwork. They are all perfectly hardy, except the Mexican Ootoneaster denticalata, which re- quires protection in winter, or should be planted against a south wall in the neighbourhood of London. Section I, — Deciduous or Bub-deciduous Kinds. 1. The Common Ootoneaster (Ootoneaster vulgaris, Lindley). — ^The leaves are oval, rounded at the base, tomentose beneath, on Bhort foot-stalka, deciduous, and I3- in. in diameter ; the flowers are on few forked peduncles, white, with a reddish tinge, and produced in April and May; the fruit ia round, terminal, somewhat downy, and of a green colour when yonng, but either red or blaolr, according to the variety, when rips. It ia a native of Europe and Siberia, and forma a spreading bush 4 ft. or 5 ft. high. There are two forma of this species : the erythrocarpa, or red-fruited, and the melanocarpa, or black-fruited, which is the Mespilua Ootoneaster of Pallas, and the Mespilus melanocarpa of Dr. Fischer and Loddiges' Botanical Cabinet. [Synonym— Mespilus Ootoneaster, i.] 2. The Woolly Ootoneaster (Ootoneaster tomentosa,iincZZe!/). — The leaves of this are elliptic, obtuse, or rounded at both ends, densely coated beneath with a white tomentam, deoiduoua, and 2 in. long, and 1 in. broad ; the young shoots, calyxes, peduncles, and young fruits are also thickly furnished with a woolly covering ; the flowers are white, sotnetimea tinted with red, in dense, many.flowered, forked, terminal clusters, thickly coated with tomentum, and produced in April and May j fruit rather large, woolly when young, and of a black colour when ripe. This kind forms a spreading shrub, -i ft. or 5 ft. high, and ia a native of the Swiaa Alps in rocky places. [Synonym — Mespilus erioearpa, Be OancLolle.'] 3. The Loose-flowered. Ootoneaster (Ootoneaster laxiflora, Lindley). — The leaves are oblong, or ronndish.oval, obtuse at both ends, woolly beneath, quite glabrous above, and frequently with a macro at the point, 2 in. long, and \\ in. broad ; the flowers are in large, many-flowered, cymoae panicles, or loose-forked, peduncled racemes, longer than the leaves, white-tinted with deep pink, and are, as well as the calyxes, glabrous. They are produced in great abundance in April, May, and June. The fruit is oblong, smooth, and black, with a bluish tint when ripe in September. This kind forms a straggling, deciduous shrub, 3 ft. or 4 ft. high, and is a native of Siberia, in the Soongarian desert, among rooks. [Synonyms — Ootoneaster multiflora, Bunge; Ootoneaster nigra, WaMenberg .'] 4. The One-flowered Ootoneaster (Ootoneaster nniflora, Bange). — The leaves are oblong, tapering at both ends, glabrous above and pubescent beneath : flowers greeniah-white, on very short foot-stalks, solitary, and are, as well aa the calyxes, glabroua ; they are produced in May and Juno. The fruit is globose, and red when ripe in the autumn. This kind forms a deciduous-spreading shrub, 2 ft. or 3 ft. high, and is a native of Siberia, in sub-Alpine places. It difEera from 0. laxiflora in having solitary flowers and red fruits. [Synonyms — Mespilus Uva-ursi, Pallas ; Ootoneaster laxiflora nniflora, Fischer.'] 5. The Moneywort - leaved Ootoneaster (Ootoneaster Nummularia, Lindley). — The leaves are orbicular, H in. in diameter, entire, flat, mucronate at the apex, more or less emarginate, tomen- toaely.hirsute in the young state, but glabrous on the npper side in the adult ones, and rather distantly placed ; the bark on the shoots, the buds, petioles, and under surface of the leaves, and part of the npper surface and midrib, are more or less hairy when in the young state, but afterwards become quite smooth when fully matured and deciduons. The flowers are white, in few, close, axillary cymes ; they are produced in April and May. The fruit is rather small, numerous, black, and is ripe in September. This kind forms an elegant, spread- ing, round-headed, small tree, 10 ft. or 15 ft. high, with numerous slender, twiggy branohlets, aud is a native of the mountain regions of Nepaul. 6. Dr. Royle's Ootoneaster (Ootoneaster Eoylei, Gordon). — The leaves are broadly obovate or somewhat obcordate, quite obtuse, and mucronate at the apex, from ■} ia. to J in. in diameter, tapering slightly to the base, flat, entire, rather distantly placed, deciduous, and clothed with a dense, white tomentum on the under side, but quite smooth and somewhat glossy on the npper one ; the twiggy shoots are long, slender, little divided, and woolly when young, but afterwards become smooth ; the flowers are small, in close axillary, few-flowered cymes, densely coated with a silky, white tomentum, and white ; they are produced in April and May. The fruit ia oblong, small, smooth, and of a black colour when ripe in September. This kind forms a neat, spreading bush, 4 ft. or 5 ft. high, with slender, undivided twiga, and is a native of the Himalaya Mountains and Western India. [Synonym — Ootoneaster Eoyleana, Malcoy.'} 7. The Toothed-leaved Ootoneaster (Ootoneaster denti. culata, Bentham). — The leaves are elliptic or obovate-elliptic, J in. in diameter, rounded, denticulate on both sides, mucronate at the apex, flat, and leathery in texture, smooth above, tomentosely- pubescent, aud hairy beneath ; the flowers are white tinted with pink, and in terminal, simple corymbs, with dense, wooly calyxes ; fruit downy, very lai-ge, and palo pink. Thia kind forms a large, twiggy, sub-evergreen shrub, found in abundance on the sandstone hills about Eegla, in Mexico, at an elevation of 6000 ft. It ia only half-hardy in the neighbourhood of London, and requires protection in winter or to be planted against a south wall. [Synonym — Niigelia deuticulata, Lindley; MespUas denticnlata, Sjprenzel-'] 8. The Acuminated-leaved Ootoneaster (Ootoneaster acuminata, Lindley). — The leaves are ovate, acutely-pointed, mncro- nate, sub-deciduous, rather distant on the young shoots, aud from 1 in. to 3 in. long, and nearly f in. broad ; they are pubescent or pilose on both surfaces, but particularly so on the under surface and young twigs ; the flowers are white, axillary, and are produced in April and May on three-flowered peduncles, which are rather reflexed ; fruit rather large, oblong, bright red, very abundant, and ripe in September, but remaining on the plants all the winter. It ia a vigorous-growing, stiff, fastigiate, sub-evergreen, bushy shrub, from 6 ft. to 8 ft. high. Found on the mountains of Nepaul. [Synonym — Mespilus acuminata, Lod.diyes.'] 9. Simon's Ootoneaster (Ootoneaster Simonsi, Sort.)— The leaves are ovate, acuminate, and mucronate, J in. long, and nearly i in. broad, thickly hirsute on the under side and young shoots, slightly so on the upper surface, particularly on the adult leaves, ciliated on the margins, and sub-evergreen ; flowers terminal on the short, lateral branchlets, mostly in threes and fours and somewhat reflexed, very hairy, white deeply tinted with pink when young and in the bud state, and produced abundantly in May and June ; fruit rather large, oblong, orange.scarlet, plentiful, and ripe in September, but remaining on the plant all the winter. This kind forms a rigid, sub-evergreen, bushy shrub, 5 ft. or 6 ft. high, which resembles very much 0. acuminata, but has much smaller leaves and a much dwarfer habit of growth. It is a native of Oentral Asia, and is frequently improperly named Simmondsi in the trade lists. [Synonyms— Ootoneaster acutifolia, Ttircz ; Ootoneaster Hoskeri, Sorf] 10. The Alpine Ootoneaster (Ootoneaster frigida, Wallicli). — The leaves are oval-lanceolate, tomentose beneath when young, glabrous above when fully matured, mucronate, coriaceous, slightly crenulated, and 4 in. or 5 in. long, and about IJ in. broad. The branchlets are smooth when matured, but woolly when young, and a good portion of the leaves and fruit remain on all the winter, and make a fine appearance at that season. The flowers are in terminal, forked, paniculate corymbs, small, snow-white, quite woolly, and are produced in great abundance in April and May. The fruit is small, spherical, bright red, and is ripe in September and October, and in mild seasons and sheltered situations remain on all the winter. Thia kind forma a robust, free-growing, small sub-evergreen tree from 10 ft. to 15 ft. high, found on the higher mountains of the northern regions of Nepaul, and derives the speoiflo name frigida on account of the coldness of the locality in which it is found. Nassia ia its native name in Nepaul. [Synonym — Pyrus Nnssia, Bon.'] 11. The Small-fruited Ootoneaster (Ootoneaster affinis, Lindley). — The leaves are ovate or obovate,f rom 3 J in. to 4 in. long, and 1^ in. broad, attenuated at the base, mucronate at the point, woolly beneath, as well as the petioles aud calyses ; peduncles lateral j 118 THE GARDjEN. [J01T 2^, 1876. flowers corymbose, bifurcate, in many-flowered heads, white, and are prodnced io Api'il and May; fruit small, numerons, spherical, and bright red when ripe in September, but remaining on the tree all the winter. They are very ornamental. This kind forma a small Bub-evergreen tree from 10 ft. to 15 ft. high, and is a native of Kamaon and Chittong, a town of Lower Nepaul. It very much re- tembles C. frigida in habit and appearance, but has broader ovate leaves, and appears little more than a wild form of that species. [Synonym — Mespilus integerrima, Hamilton; Mespilns affinis, Don.^ 13. The blunt-leaved Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster obtusa, TValHch). — The leaves are broadly ovate or obovate, glabrous when fully matured, 2Hn. long, and li in. broad, entire on the edges, obtuse, and mucronate at the point, tapering slightly to the base, deciduous, and when young, with the petioles pilose and the margins ciliated ; branches smooth, and the young shoots downy ; flowers lateral, crowded in many-flowered cymes, glabrous, white.are produced in April and May ; fruit in lateral-stalked cymes, large, spherical, smooth, black, and ripe in September, but remaining on the tree nearly all the winter. This kind forms a free-growing, large, bushy shrub, from 8 ft. to 10 ft. high, with a spreading head, and is a native of Nepaul and Kamaon. [Synonym — Cotoneaster lasvis, Loddiges.^ 13. The Rod or Twig-hranched Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster bacillaris, Wallich). — The leaves are ovate or obovate, tapering to the base, mucronate, glabrous, 2i in. long ^and li in. broad, on rather long, slender foot-stalks, distant, and sub-evergreen in mild seasons ; branches glabrous ; branchlets very slender and twig-like ; the flowers arc in many-flowered, divaricate cymes, pilose, white, and are prodnced in April and May. Fruit small, in axillary cymes, on long, slender peduncles, smooth, and black when ripe in the autumn. This kind forms a large, bushy shrub, 8 ft. or 10 ft. high, with a spreading head composed of Blender, twig-like branchlets. It is a native of Nepaul and Kamaon. Bcdion II. — Evergreen hinds, iviili small Icailieiij leaves. 14. The Small-leaved Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster micro, phylla, ira»ic?()-— Leaves oblong-cuneated, obtuse, deep glossy green, and smooth on the upper surface, pubescent beneath, thickly set on the lateral branchlets, about i in. long, and nearly 2 lines broad, and strictly persistent ; the flowers are solitary, on the ends of the short lateral branchlets, pure white, and are produced in May and June ; fruit globular, rather large, bright scarlet, and ripe in August, but remaining on all the winter. This kind forms a spreading and somewhat trailing, dense bush, fnll of rigid leafy spray, and only a few feet high, but covering a large expanse of ground. It is a native of the northern parts of India in rocky situation.". It is well suited for planting on rockwork or training against a naked wall. [Synonym— Crataegus rupestris, Grijilh.'} CoTONEASTEK MicEOPii VLT.A TDYMiroLiA, Uorl. — This differs from the ordinary form of the species in having the leaves not more than one quarter the size, and in its very much smaller and more compact habit of growth, for it seldom exceeds 1 ft. in height, and forms quite a miniature plant. It is well adapted for planting on rock, work, where space is an object. This is a variety of the preceding. [Synonym— Cotoneaster miorophylla minor, Horl ] 15. The Round-leaved Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster rotnndi. folia, ^VallirJi). — Leaves roundish or broadly ovate, \ in. long and 4 lines broad, somewhat obtuse or slightly pointed, leathery in texture, quite smooth, and deep glossy green above, pilose beneath, and not very thickly placed along the shoots. The flowers are solitary, on the ends of the short, lateral branchlets, white, with the backs of the petals often pinkish, and aro produced in May. Fruit rather oblong, smooth, and bright scarlet when ripe in August, but remaining on all the winter. This kind forms a dense, bushy shrub, 3 ft. or 4 ft. high, with rigid, spreading shoots, and is a native of Northern India and Nepaul. [Synonym— Cotoneaster TJva-ursi, L{ndh^j.~\ 16. The Himalaya Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster marginata, lAnd'cy). — Leaves ovate-tblong or obovate, tapeiiug somewhat at the base, rounded and mucronate at the point, smooth, and glossy green above, densely pilose bereath and on the margins, 1 in. long and i in. broad, and not very thickly set on the shoots. Tlowers mostly in fours, but sometimes in more or less nnmbers, in terminal, close clusters at the ends of the short, lateral branchlets ; they aro white, with the calyxes and peduncles thickly covered with piloso hairs, and are produced in abundance about the end of May. Fruit deep crimson, globular, and ripe in September, but remaining on all the winter. This kind forma a fine, dense, spreading bnsh, from 4 ft. to 6 ft. high, with numerous twiggy branchlets. Native of the Himalaya Mountains. 17. The Box-leaved Cotoneaster (Cotoneaster buxifolia, Wallicli). — Leaves ovate, acuminate, with rather long footstalks and tapering to the base, I4 in. long and J in. broad, downy on the under side when young, but quite smooth when fully matured, except oa the margins and petioles, which are more or leaa ciliated in the adult state ; flowers small, white, and in compact, short, terminal clusters, at the ends of the short, lateral shoots, mostly in fives, and produced in May and June; fruit globular, smooth, mostly in fives, deep crimson, and ripe in September. This kind forms a strong, growing, twiggy, straggling, evergreen bush, from 4 ft. to 6 ft. high, and is a native of the Neilgherry Mountains in India. What the Cotoneaster granatensis of Boissier is I am unable to say, but I atrongly suspeot it is nothing more than C. vulgaris or C. tomentosa. Trees at the Centennial Exhibition. — This presents nearly a complete exhibit of the forest trees of the United States. There are about 400 species and varieties, each represented by sections of the trunk and corresponding botanical specimens of the foliage, flowers, and frnit. The sections are 2 ft. long, in two pieces, one showing the outer surface of bark and the other sawed longitudinally and dressed to show the character of the grain and wood. Above each section, inclosed in a frame, is the corresponding botanical specimen of foliage, flowers, and fruit. This collection was obtained through twelve collectors in different parta of the Union. The greatest care has been taken to have all the specimens anthentio and true to name. It is a remarkable and striking display of forest- wealth. There are fifty species of semi-tropical trees of Southern Florida, including five new species. There are twenty-five species from Texas, and thirty species from Southern California and Arizona, including some of the rarest and most interesting trees of that country, particularly the tree Yuccas and a recently-found Palm. There sre fifty species from the Paoiflo slope of California, and teu or twelve from Oregon, and thirty from the Sierra Nevada Moun. tains of California, including large sections of some of the noblest coniferous trees of the world, such as the Sugar Pine, the Douglaa Spruce, the Silver Fir, and others. From the mountains of Utah and Colorado there are twenty-five to thirty species. From Illinois and the Western States, fifty ; from Vermont, twenty; from Virginia, fifty ; most of which were obtained from the old Mount Vernon estate of General Washington. The Southern States, exclusive of South Florida, contribute about ninety species. The Oak family is represented by thirty species, including the famous Live-Oak of the South, the various white and black Oaks, both of the eastern and western portiona of the continent. The Pine family is also represented by thirty species, of which more than half are peculiar to the Kocky Mountains and western coast. Of Spruces there are sixteen species, and of other Conifers about twenty. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON TREES AND SHBUBS. Arnndinaria falcata Seeding.- 1 have grown tliis Bamboo for twonty-flvo yearp, and have specimens of it of various dimensions both hero and elsewhere, somo of largo size, but none of thorn has bloomed or scedcil until tliis year. Kow, s'ran^e to sny. at every joint Ihrougbout the canes aro clusters of seed ; every plimt is perfectly leafless and appears dying, a snd ccntrntt to their hilherto beautiful plumose character at this time of the year.— J. M., Axmiiuler. An American Nursery.— The nursery of Ellwanger & Barr/, at Rochester, in tho State of Now York, is, according to tho "Albany Country Gentleman," Iho largest oslablisbmenl of tho kmd in America, occupying (16(1 acres, conlain- iug 10 plant houses which cover 3 ',OoO stinaro feet of ground, employing 260 men for tho eight busy months, mnro in tho packing season, bcsideb a large number of travelling agents. It employs thirty horses. Climbing Shrubs in Hokkaido Woods.- Among climbing shrubs I moro particularly remarked the magnificent Schizophragma hydrongoides, which do not think has as yet been introduced into foreign gardens, but which I daro to point out as one of tho future eading novelties for our parks. Ihe general appearance cf this creeper is striking, and with its white sterile llowors re- scmbles much a whito Clematis at a distance, although it is a true Hydrangea, the rich green tint ff its f' liago is ono of its groat attractions. Among other climbing plants, I found Kunnymus radicans, a plant now woU known, which covered the trunks of trees in the same manner as Ivy, and is evergreen like its rival. — Ij. Bouubb, in " Gardeners' Monthly." Tulip Tree Wood.— Though this tree is classed as a light wood, it is much heavier llian tho Poplar, its grain ia equally fine and more compact, and the wood is cuaily wrought and poli.^hes well. It is found strong and still' enough for uses Ihn't rcipiiro great solidity. The heart, when separated from iho sap and peiftcMy seasoned, long resists the inauenco of tho uir, and ia said to bo rarely nttockcd by worms. Its greatest defect, when employed in wide boards and exposed to tho weather, is that it is liable to shrink and warp by tho altorna- tions of dryness and moisture, but this defect is in a groat measure compensated for by its other properties. July 29, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 119 THE HOUSEHOLD. RECEIPTS. E.3d Currants for Jam. — Pick carefully 7 lbs. of fine ripe Eed Currants, add to them 6 lbs. of pounded loaf sugar, at first gently simmer, then boil them rather fast for ten minutes. This is an excel- lent receipt, and makes a jam far superior to that whicli is boiled for a longer time. Red Currant Jelly. — Take 6 or 8 lbs. of fine Eed Currants to 3 or 4 lbs. of White; draw the juice by placing the jar which contains them in a steamer or bain-marie, strain it off, and to every pint add 1 lb. of pounded loaf sugar. Boil this juice fast for twenty-five minutes, skimming it carefully, and pat it into small shallow pots, which have been previously dipped into cold water. It is unnecessary to pick the Currants for jelly. Currant and Gooseberry Compote. — Put a quart of Red Currant juice to 5 lbs. of loaf sugar; set on the fire, and when the sugar is dissolved, put in 8 lbs. of red, rough, ripe Goose- berries ; let them boil half an hour, then put them into an earthen pan and allow them to stand for two days ; then boil them again until they look clear, and let them stand a week to dry a little at the top ; then cover them with brandy papers. French. Raspberry Tart. — Choose a pint of very fice ripe Easpberries, either red or white ; stem them, and throw them into a boiling syrup made with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar and a tablespoonf ul of water ; withdraw them immediately from the fire, line a tart dish with a puff paste rolled as thinly as possible ; lay in the fruit and syrup, observing to keep the Easpberries as whole as possible ; put into a quick oven for twenty minutes ; strew more sugar over it and glaze it, or, if to be served cold, pour some cream over it. Strawberry Jam. — It is best to choose deep red Strawberries for this excellent preserve ; the Elton Pine is most successful, other kinds taste, perhaps, equally good, but are less attiaciive in appear- ance. To every pound of fruit weigh three-quarters of a pound of pounded loaf sugar, boil the Strawberries with a pound of the sugar for ten minutes to draw the juice, then add the remainder of the sugar and boil the preserve twenty minutes longer, carefully stirring and skimming it all the time ; cover the pots with brandy papers the next day and tie them down. It will be unnecessary to repeat the directions for stirring and skimming each time, because no careful cook will omit these ; the slightest neglect in these respects is fatal. The pots used for preserves should be perfectly clean and dry, and when filled must be kept in a cool dry place ; warmth causes preserves to ferment, while damp renders them mouldy. Easpberry jam may be made exactly like the preceding. White Easpberries make excellent jam ; they are treated in the same manner. Raspberry Vinegar. — Put a quart of Maille's French vinegar into a large basin, and throw in 3 or 4 lbs. of Easpberries white and red mixed, or only red (they can be put in all at once or as they ripen) ; stir them every day for a week, then drain the vinegar from them, passing it through muslin ; boil it for five minutes with its weight of sugar, put it into clean dry bottles, cork these well, and keep them in a cool place. Mixed Herbs. — Pound together in a Wedgewood mortar, dried Mint and Sage, half an ounce of each ; Celery seed, one drachm ; cayenne, a quarter of a drachm. Eub them through a fine sieve. This gives a savoury relish to Pea-aoup and to water gruel. A drachm of allspice or black pepper may be pounded with the herbs instead of cayenne. Or dried Parsley, Sweet Marjoram, Winter Savory, Lemon Thyme, of each two ounces ; Lemon peel cut very thin and dried, and S weet Basil, of each one ounce. Some add Bay leaves and Celery seed, a drachm of each. These may be dried and repounded together, then kept in closely stoppered bottles. To Pickle Green or Red Capsicums.— Place the Capsicums in a jar; boil a dessert-spoonful of salt in a quart of vinegar, and pour it, while hot, upon the peppers ; when cold place a plate on tho jar, and tie over it bladder or leather. They will be fit for use in a few weeks. To Preserve Truffles.— Being dug 8 or 10 inches below the surface of the earth, they require a good deal of washing and brush- ing before they can bo applied to culinary purposes. When washed, the water should be warm, and changed frequently. Trufiles lose much of their flavour if allowed to get dry. Pick out the blackest and the freshest gathered, peel them carefully with a sharp knife, reject all which are the least unsound, put them into bottles as close as they can bo shakeu, cork them tight, and boil them for an hour in the " bain-marie." — M. HANDBOOK OF EUKAL SANITARY SCIENCE. This useful manual contains a series of essays on sanitary matters in rural districts in which the laws of health are explained in clear and succinct language. The first five chapters which are from tho pen of Mr. C. F. Gardener trent of the best means of securing purity of air both in and around dwellings, the disposal of sewage and other pollution, the supply and storage of water and sanitary legislation and administration. The next chapter is written by Dr. Berry, of Wigan, and to a great extent repeats what Mr. Gardener has already written in greater detail. Mr. C. N. Cresswell, who is a barrister, follows with a chapter on the legal aspect of sanitary matter, and shows how mnoh still remains to be done by our law- makers towards improving the health of our rural population. Mr. Hennell, C. E., contributes a chapter on the relations between rural sanitary anthorities and the central government ; and the editor. Dr. Lory Marsh, winds up with a series of notes on river pollution, the evils of cesspools and kindred subjects. For any one who intends building either in town or country this little manual is indispen- Tender Cucumbers. — It is hardly too much to say that in nine oases out of ten in large gardens, as well as small. Cucumbers are not cut until they are a long way past their best. Two-thirds grown is about the best size for Cucumbers. Beyond that stage they deteriorate. It is somewhat surprising that they should be allowed to do so ; for Cucumbers are invariably sold singly, by the brace, or by number ; none, unless pickling ones, are sold by pound, stone, bushel, or ton. Neither is there any loss of weight by cutting Cucumbers early. On the contrary, there is a great gain. The earlier the fruit is cut, the more will be produced, and the longer the plants continue bearing. There is nothing like early cut. ting for perpetual fertility. Each fruit removed at one-half or three-quarter size, is succeeded by two or three more. A second fruit will almost be fit to cut before the first would have been removed under ordinary circumstances. Early cutting also maintains the plants in the highest health and fullest strength. Of course, no one thinks of ripening Cucumbers, unless for seed. But there is much strain on the plants a long time before perfect maturity. By early cutting we almost hinder the seeds from being formed at all, and this also conserves the quality of the Cucumber. For it cannot have failed to attract notice that the finest flavoured Cucumbers are those without seeds. Seed-bearing is fatal to tenderness, crispness, and sweetness. For this additional reason we would therefore advise the early cutting of Cucumbers. It is well, also, to pick off all the male blossoms as soon as they appear. This would effectually pre- vent seeds being formed. Cucumbers without seed are more uniform in size and more delicate in quality than those producing seed. It used to be thought that Cucumbers would not grow freely unless they were impregnated. This is quite a mistake. They swell equally well, and in fact are better for eating, if all the male flowers be removed from the first. There is yet another plea for small Cucumbers. They can hardly be eaten too fresh. Cut and eatat once, should be the rule. Almost the smallest household can eat up a small Cucumber at a meal or in a day. A large one would last several days or perhaps a week. From the moment it is cut it begins to deteriorate, and by the time that it has been cut several days a Cucumber is hardly worth eating, becoming stale, flaccid, or insipid. — D. T. Fisn. Laxton's Supreme Pea,— This is one of the best of Peas for a general crop. Grown two years here side by side with Dickson's Favourite, it bears about as well as tbat variety, the pods are large and well filled. Veitcb'a Perfec- tion and Ne Plus Ultra are complete failures this season, wliLle last year they were all that coald be desired.— \V. W., H^jlehuraf. Early Dwarf French Beans.— On the 27th April I sowed Negro Long-pod, Sir J. Paxton, Fulmer's Forcing, and Osborn's Forcing, side by side. I began gathering from Sir J. Paxton on the 13th inst. This sort was four or five days earlier than the others, and more than a week earlier than the Negro Long-pod. — Jonw Gaelahd, Killerton, Exeter. Kohl Eahi.— This obtains increased attention every year. It is not an article of the Jewish faith, but a Brassicaceous plant that forms a kind of bulb or swollen stem intermediate between a Cabbage-stump and a Turnip, and marked all over with picturesque gashes or scars as if it had been in the wars; To grow a good crop of Kohl rabi requires a heavy soil that was well prepared in autumn; indeed, the soil cannot be too good for it. The seed is sown in March, April, and May, and it is customary to plant out from the seed-bed in showery weather. "When sown where they are to stand, the rows should be 2 ft. to 24 ft. wide, and tho plants are ultimately thinned to 15 inches. It is very hardy, very nutritive, seldom fails, and, all points considered, is a better-paying food crop than Turnips. Asa garden crop. Kohl Eabi is not without its value. Grown quickly, and taken up small and boiled without being pared, then pared and buttered, it is a delicious vegetable. The purple variety is a mere curiosity; if a profitable crop be wanted, the green variety only should be grown.^ " P;otorial World." 120 THE GARDEN. [July 29, 1878. ALPINE LYCHNISES. These are very few in number, the Bpeciea mostly growing in the meadows or hedges. Thero are, however, at least two which are among tho most beautiful flowers in the Alpine flora — L. alpina and L. Lagasceie ; the last is the most brilliant. It is a lovely rock plant with a profusion of bright rosy flowers, so abundant when the plant is healthy and in a fully exposed position, that they quite hide the leaves. From its brilliancy of colour and neat spreading habit it is well suited for planting in fissures on the high and exposed places in rocks, the colour telling a long way off ; easily grown in firm sandy loam. Lychnis alpina is a Scotch and north of England plant, inhabiting very high crags, which is also worthy of a place among the dwarfer plants in the rock garden, where it is easy of culture. The better varieties of L. Viscaria are very effective, but as they thrive in borders, it is only where there is a large rock garden or a sparsely planted one that they need be used on the less carefully pre- pared lower portions. V. Tlie Site of Northumberland House. — Surely the cry for gardens on the site of Northumberland House is unwise, considering the long string of gardens on the Thames Embankment, the breezy river, and the wide and wellplanted open space of Trafalgar Square, which may easily be converted from a stony desert into a garden. Let us have many gardens by all means, but let us not forget that gardens as well as houses may be wrongly placed. Also we should remember that the highest effects in cities are obtained by the association of noble buildings with trees as may be seen in various parts of St. James's Park, and in the little gardens in the Place du Carrousel in Paris. The space here is wholly insnificient to produce anything effective in the way of gardens more than will be afforded by the line of tyees planted there, whereas it aifords a noble oppor. tunity to the architect. The space is probably worth for building purposes more than £12,000 a year, and if any of this could be afforded for the making of new gardens more good would be done by forming an oasis in some crowded part of London, now without any of the advantages of the spot in question. A rROST.ESCAPiNG^WALNUT. — At the moment of writing (June 25), says M. Carrifere, in the last number of the " Rovne Horticole," the Noyer St. Jean (Juglans serotina) is only Just opening its buds, show- ing that it fully merits the title popularly bestowed on it, the young fruit appearing about July 6. The consequence of this lateness of habit is that these Walnut trees yield fruit in abundance throughout the year, which is far from being the case with most of the other varieties, which are frequently frozen every winter, or which do not bear, owing to the cold, although they may not actually freeze, the young fruit either falling off or not making its appearance at all. An instance of this occurred during the present year, the young fruit having fallen from all the Walnut trees in the Jardin dea Plantes, although they were not actually frozen. Why, then, it may bo asked, especially when the Walnut is grown as a profitable crop, do not growers plant nothing but this species, which always gives an abundant crop ? THE BIBLE TLOWER MISSION. At this season of the year, when our gardens are bright and fragi'ant with flowers, our thoughts naturally turn to the sick poor of London, who are lying in pain and weariness during these long summer days in the ward of an hospital, or to those oven more to he pitied who have lain, perhaps for years, in the infirmary of a workhouse, and to whom the gift of a little of our floral abundance would indeed " make sunshine in a shady place." The commencement of the Bible Elowcr Mission is thus described : — " Early in the spring of 1874 a Snowdrop, Primrose, and two or three Violets, which had been casually enclosed in a letter to an East- end worker, were passed round a sewing-class of 200 poor old widows 'for each to have a smell,' and then divided and given to three people whose time here was but short. From that time flowers were collected through the medium of ' Woman's Work,' &o., and during the season distributed by the ladies at the Homo of Industry among the sick ia the neighbouring courts and in different hospitals." The work thus begun has gone on steadily since, and would, wo are convinced, be greatly in- creased if more people knew of the existence of such a Mission. Is it much for us who live in the midst of gardens and fields to spare a few flowers to brighten the day of some_ poor sufferer, even at the cost of a little self-denial ? Think what a glorious thing a fresh, bright Kose must be to one who has not for twenty years seen a flower ! Tiiose who have sick friends know what an acceptable gift a few flowers are, even to the wealthy. What visions of soft summer air, of cool country breezes, of fresh green fields the little hunches of flowers carry with them into the close, dull wards of a London hospital. Prom all parts of the country contributions have been sent to this Mission. Sunday-school children gathered flowers in Welsh lanes, and some regular contributions came every week from Cornwall. Girls cultivated their little gardens at school, and little children sent flowers from their own plants. Invalids gave flowers from the knowledge of their value to themselves, and one who liad little money sent threepence a week to be spent in the purchase of bunches of Violets or whatever was most plentiful. One lady suggested the sale of some choice flowers she possessed, and that the money thus obtained should be given to the Mission as of more practical use than her flowers could be ; for the poor prize afew Violets or Primroses, nay, even a little bunch of Cowslins or Buttercups, more than the choicest exotic. Who can tell what visions of early days these flowers bring with them to the country born ? Days of innocence, and peace, and happiness, such as they never know now in their later life. In one neighbourhood, about twelve miles from London, a lady resolved this summer on opening her house every Wednesday afternoon as a local depot for the Flower Mission. " The gardens of the place are small, and few of the people living in the place could gather enough flowers to send to London, but on the principle that "many a little makes a muckle," the local depot has been very suc- cessful. Since April oOOt) bunches have been forwarded to the central depot, Laurence Pountney Hill. Primroses and Violets were first sent, then flowering shrubs, and now Roses. Some persons bring their flowers made into bunches, others send a few stray flowers, and some ladies give up their Wednesday afternoons to make these up into bunches of the right size. These are placed in water for the uiglit and kept in a cool place, and next morning they are quite fresh and are taken to London early. Will no one else undertake a similar work ? To every bunch of flowers sent out by the Bible Hower Jlission a text is attached. It is written clearly on a card, in which a hole is cut and the bouquet inserted, so that the bright flowers carry with them gracious promises and words of entreaty — messages of love and of warn- ing such as might never have reached those who receive them but for the Flower Mission. Many who cannot send flowers can prepare these texts, and to many invahds it has been a delightful occupation. TUe cards can he cut out of a plain calling card, or Unwin Brothers, 109a, Cannon Street, London, E.G., supply them ready for writing on at a very trifling cost. Full directions for prepai-ing the bouquets or for making the text- cards can be found in a little penny book also supplied by Unwin Brothers, and a very interesting account of the I\Iission is given in a threepenny pamphlet, " The Records of the Bible Flower Mission," to be had at the Conference Hall, Mildmay Park, London, to which we are indebted for many of the facts mentioned in this paper. The work has, however, greatly increased since the book was written in September, 1873. If any i-caders of The Garden will give any assistance in this work of kindness and thoughtfulness for others, the flowers will gladly be received by Miss Bewsher, Hon. Sec. of the Bible Flower Mission, Central Depot, 9, Laurence Pountney Hill, E.G., close to Cannon Street Station. There are several other depots in London named in the books before mentioned, and there are also others at Hull, Leicester, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Dumbarton, and Ayr. B. NOTES AND QUESTIONS-VARIOUS. Golden Bamboo in Flower in Devon.— A flourisTilng plant of Bambnsa aureaisnow in full bloom in my parden nndev a south wall, where tho subsoi is stiff clay. Tbia plant I obtained from Mesara. Roy and Co., of Paris, in March, lS7o ; it is the lir&t instanco in which a Bamboo has (lowered in my garden.— H. F. ELticOMBE, Cl-^H St. George, Topaham. Autumn-sown Onions* — I have been in tbo habit of sowing Danvera' Yellow Onion in August alon^ with the Tripoli, and find that it stands the winter well; and, when ripe, keeps well, which the TripoU does not. As the Onion fly ia such a pest in some gardens, the hint by Mr, Groom in Thb Gab- den (p. 92), of autumn-sown Onions escaping it, may induce growers to sow this variety. Dauvcrs'iYellow grows large, and is a very distinct and cxcoHont Onion for a general crop, whether sown in aulumn or in the soring. — Williau TiLLEET, IVclhcck. Fillbasket Pea.— Of this Pea I can speak more favourably this year than I did last. Except a few rows of Ne Plus Ultra, which, though a tall grower, baa aUvays been my summer marrow Pea. I have grown nothing olse this j'car than Fillbasket as a summer Pea. I sowed it in December, 1875, along with Dickson's First and Best. It stood the winter and spring well, and I have followed on with these all through the summer so far. Ita height is 3 ft. ; you can grow four rows of Fillbasket in the space required for two rows of Ne Plus Ultra, thus gelting eight times the produce, because Fillbaakot grows quilo twice as many Peas in a row as Ne Plus Ultra.— P. Artificial Variegation.— Cultivators would do well to note tbo fact that variegation may in mtiny c.\ses bo communicatod to a Ipcrfectly green-leavod plant by budding it with variegated scions. This practics is nearly always successful in tbo case of Abutilona, and it has also succeeded in that of tho Ash, Sweet Chestnut, Horse Chestnut, Maple, Jessamine, Oleander, and Passion-flower. Even when tho buds die or refuse to "take," as it ia termed, they often communicate variegation to tho stock. Professor Morren induced n proen-leaved Abutilon to become variegated by merely inserting the loaf-atalk of a variegated leaf under the bark.— B. A'iparagus as a Table Plant.— The common Asparagus grown in pota makes, according to "Tho Florist," a pretty plant for table decoration. Tbo roots should bo potted in 5-in. or G-in. pots, in a compost of wcll-cnrichod sandy loam, and i>lacod on tho front stage of a warm house ; anil tho earlier shoota may be cut for hro, if drawn \\\t by covering the crown with an inverted pot. One shoot only shoulil bo allowed to grow, either tho strongest or a weak one, as largo or small plants may be desired. As soon as tho foliage begins to open, the plants should bo placed in a cooler part of the house, to harden ofl'a little ; and from thence may bo taken in-doors, as required. The foliage being of a bright rich green, and tho plants forming a cono o£ foliage, thoy arc, when adou with berricsi really beautiful. THE GARDEN. ISl SATTTRDAT, ATTCtTTaT 8, 1878. ** Tliis is an art Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but Thh Abt itself is Natuhb." — ShaJcespearei EOSES FOR THE SEASIDE. Theee must be many whose lot in an island like this is cast in sea- side towns, and who yet have the love of a garden implanted in their nature ; to such I would write a few words of en- couragement, as from experience I am convinced that, if only a real love of flowers be present, success will in the end crown their efforts. Like many others, I lamented the impossibility of growing Roses in such a sitiiation, and, gazing on the smoke-begrimed, wind-blown, moribund standards and climb- ing Roses that disgrace the gardens in the immediate neigh- bourhood of the town and sea-shore, I felt convinced that the queen of flowers had deserted part of her legitimate domain. At last, fired by a determination to have some good Roses or die in the attempt, after careful inspection of the various sites I could find in a garden sloping steeply to the sea, and over- shadowed by trees in the sunniest parts, 1 chose a place, not more than thirty yards from high-water mark, where some shrubs broke the force of the sea-winds, and there made a bank slop- ing to the south-east. This was properly prepared with fresh soil and rotten manure, and the Roses, dwarfs on the Manetti or Brier, were duly planted, pruned at the end of February, and protected by some Furze branches from the violence of the winter-winds. The consequence was that they began to grow very early, and as the late spring was very severe that year, most of my Roses died, and all had a struggle for bare existence. The next year, warned by experience, I pruned very late (in the end of March or first days of April, according to the season), and in May, when the young shoots and foliage were 2 in. or 3 in. long, I placed a band of canvas 18 in. high on the sea side of my beds ; this proved a most eflicient protection, as all the Roses had been pegged down close to the ground, and in June, when the leaves became firm, and the flower-buds swelling, it was removed. The bloom that year was far superior to anything I had dared to expect, and from that time to this, by eliminating those varieties that will not succeed under such conditions, and trying fresh sorts and experiments, the quality of the flowers has improved. The chief points, then, to be insisted on as peculiar to sea-side treatment of Roses, are late and'severe pruning, sacrificing something of the summer bloom, so as to ensure the growth being made as late as possible, protection during May and most of June only, and carefully pegging the Roses down in the case of strong-growing varieties, so as to ensure the sea-breeze blowing over their heads. The next thing is to give a list of the names of those Roses that have succeeded, and also to mention some of the well-known old favourites that have failed, as in spite of all care some refuse to grow or flower, while, happily, others thrive in a manner quite at variance to the descriptions given of them in catalogues most reliable for inland gardens. As a rule I remark that light-coloured Roses do best near the sea and smoke, as the dark ones often turn purple and discoloured under a sea-breeze or a wind that brings the town smoke over them. In the fol- lowing list the Rose that succeeds best in its colour is put first, and so on in proportion : — Hybrid Perpetuals. Red and Crimson, Mario Baumann Madame Clemence Joigneaus Madame Victor Verdier Duke of Edinburgh Dr. Andry Horace Vemet Bose-coloured. Madame Boll Marquise de Castellane Edward Morren Frangois Micheloa Paul Neron Monsieur Nomau Eark-colowed, Xavier olibo Louis Van Houtte Liglit-coloured, Baroness Rothscliild Madame Lacharme Madame Therese Levet La France Marquise de Mortemaxt Prince of Wales Boule de Neige Captain Christy Among Bourbon Roses the old Souvenir de Malmaison and Sir Joseph Paxton are specially hardy, and Aimee Vibert alone among Noisettes. Of Tea Roses it is needless to say that the invaluable Gloire de Dijon succeeds when well pegged down; its failing being that it 'is inclined to grow too early in spring. The following also do well when well sheltered : — Adrieune Christophle Boule d'Or Catherine Mermet Cheshunt Hybrid Goubault Josephine Maltou Tea Roses. Madame Falcot Madame Willermoz Marie Ducher Perle de Lyon Eegulua Sombreuil It is curious to notice how many " old friends " fail us by the sea ; General Jacqueminot, Jules Margottin, Chai'lea Lefebvre, all the Victor Verdier race, Alfred Oolomb, and Senateur Vaisse refuse to produce even decent blooms with me. If any friend could give a reason why Marie Baumann and Edward Morren should thrive, and Alfred Colomb and Jules Margottin refuse to flourish, I should feel much obliged ; perhaps a knowledge of their pedigree would help to solve the mystery. Last autumn, finding that all my attempts to make the more tender Noisettes (such as Mareohal Niel, Lamarque, andTriomphe deRennes) succeed entirely failed, I put up a glass coping, 2 ft. wide, on the top of a wall 5 ft. high, facing east, and glass screens at each end of the coping to prevent the east wind sweeping along the wall. Under this protection I planted in a rich border Marechal Niel, Lamarque, Souvenir d'un Ami, Perle de Lyon, and other good Roses, and they have grown and flowered with such wonderful luxuriance (when they would not have lived there without this slight protection), that I feel inclined to recommend its trial by all those who, like myself, live in exposed situations. Occasional syringing and watering in dry weather are needed, as the coping keeps off some of the rain from the border close to the wall. If anybody who reads this tale of success and failure be tempted to try and make Roses grow where they had not grown before, my object will have been achieved. E. H, W. MY DIARY FOR SEVEN YEARS. By J. DENNING. [Calendars of gardening operations, though very essential, are apt to become monotonous from having been carried out for many years in exactly the same form. They indeed resemble each other so much that they are sometimes supposed to be merely slightly varied repetitions of what has been written for years previously. It occurred to us, therefore, that the pub- lication of a diary of actual daily work in a first-class garden would not only be desirable as a change, but also most valuable as the best guide to the best practice. Mr. Denning, super- intendent of Lord Londesborough's gardens at Ooombe Lane, Norbiton, agreeing with the idea, at once placed his diary at our disposal. From it we have selected the entries for seven recent years, for the sake of securing a greater variety of work than i£ only one year were given. The diary includes operations in dif- ferent gardens and positions, which will make it all the more useful. We propose, henceforward, to publish it every week, for the dates corresponding to the days of the week following the date of our issue. Mr. Denning's name is already well known to many of our readers as one of the very best cultivators in many branches of horticulture, and we feel assured that the publication of his record of the work done in the well-managed gardens under his charge will prove useful to many. — Ed. Garden.] August l.—Soiom?— Tennis Ball, Bath Cos, Neapolitan, and Drumhead Cabbage Lettuce, Radish, also winter Cucumber ; and Mignonette in pots (should have been sown 14th July). Potting — Young scented.leaved Pelargoniums, Balsams, and Carnations ; also Strawberries. Cuttings of variegated Pelargoniums, named Cine- rarias, scented Pelargoniums, including small-leaved sorts, and Cen. taurea ; put in also tops of Poinsettia pulcherrima under hand-glass in Orchid-house. Planting — A good breadth of Endive, Cauliflower, and Grange's Broccoli. Miscellaneous — Staking Chrysanthemums, dwarf Dahlias, Calceolarias; staking last Peas ; tying in Gardenias ; nailing Apricots. Shifting Primulas, and old stools of Poinsettia. Gathering Apricots, Peaches, Nectarines, Melons, Grapes, Strawberries, Goose. 122 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 5, 1876. berries, Apple3 (Qrst), and Roses; took up early Potatoes. Cut down Pelargoniuais ; goiuf? over fruit trees again ; discontinued fire to Vinery in fine weather, removing dead blooms from flower garden, putting in order Cattleya house ; cleaning walks, Rose circles, beds, &c., in plensare ground; washing Orchid-houses; exposed fruit on late trees in Peach house ; cleared away all potted French Beans. Making Leek trenches, &c. ; clearing Pea ground for Strawberries ; layering Strawberry plants for planting out-of-doors ; preparing for potting Strawboiry plants ; preparing Mushroom bed ; earthed up all Broccoli; digging ground for Wallflowers, hoeing among Roses for distilling; clipping hedges ; stopped fire during day in two Ilaaiburgh houses, and stopped throwing moisture on floor. Aug. 2. — Soa-iii.'j — Schizanthns (three soit.") and latest^ Balsams. Fottdhj — Young Strawberries for planting out, consisting of Gari- baldi, Keen's Seedling (si.^ rows of each). President, Dr. Ilogg, Oscar (one row each). Eclipse, Sir Harry, Uautbois, Elton Pine (one bed each), and a few Black Prince, British Queen, and Sir Joseph Paxton ; likewise last-sown Cinerarias and Carnations. Cvttings of Bijou Pelargoninm, Coleus, and put in Alternantbera. Plariting^ Leeks in trenches ; layering Strawberry plants. Miscellaneous — Pricking-out Cabbage sown in heat. Setting Melons in last pit. Shift- ing Primulas into flowering pots, Wigandias into S-in. pots, also Stocks ; and parted and re-potted Caladiums. Matting Red Currants on walls. Staking and tying Dahlias and blue Larkspurs; putting wired stakes to conservatory Mignonette. Gathering Downtou Cher, ries from a standard tree and pulling up Onions; cutting Lavender. Cleaning roads, trimming up flower garden and Ivy in rock garden ; lioeing amongst plants in borders; sanding walks ou terrace ; turning old bulbs out of their pots. Digging ground for Spinach ; carthing-np Broccoli ; watering outdoor Mushroom bed, also Caaliflower, Celery, Lettuce, Vegetable Marrow seed-beds, and Radishes. Aug. 3. — Solving — Radishes and Lettuce. Potting — Straw. berry plants, finishing with Sir Charles Napier ; potting some Stocks and Wallflowers for spring, three in a pot, and also second-sown Stocks for stands. Cuttiiiysof Mimulus, also Iresine and Alteruan. ihera put in. Plinting — Making good blanks among latest-planted Cauliflowers ; layering some Anne Boleyn and other Pinks. Mis. cellaneous — Wiring Chrysanthemums, staking Gladioli, matting soma Gooseberries and Currants, and nailing Apricots. Shifting Anne Boleyn Pinks that had been layered, seedling Cinerarias into C-in. and 8-in. pots, Salvia argentea into 6-in. pots, and moving herba- ceous Calceolarias to shady place in frame. Gathering Champagne Gooseberries and RedCurrants for preserving; pulling effi all old Beans from first and second crops of French Beans. Cleaning and pruning Roses ; putting gas-tar about Apricot trees to keep rats and mice away (spoils Peach fruits, does not seem to hurt Apricots). Earthing, up early Celery again, digging Winter Green seed-beds for Endive, hoeing among French Beans, and thinning Mignonette. Aug. 4. — Sowing — Tripoli Onions. Potting — Intermediate Stocks, and potting off all forcing Strawberry plants. Cuttings of Pelargoniums, consisting of Beauty, Mangles' Variegated, and scented, leaved sorts ; put in also Iresino and Alternantheras. Planting — Lettuce and Endive, also planting out some Stoek.sand Wallflowers, and more Chrysanthemums and Pinks. UlisccUancous — Tying and staking Peach-house ti-ees, also Chrysanthemums, and Dahlias ; matting some Rod and White Currants. Shifting Ileliotropes from 5-in. to 7-in. pots; moving Tree Mignonette out-of-doors; shifting President and other Strawberry plants into their fruiting pots ;- first Cinerarias &c. Washing Orchids. Gathering Red Currants, taking up Garlic and Shallots, gathering Walnuts for pickling, taking seed from Mignonette; fruits ready for c'esfert, consisting of Grapes, Melons, Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Cherries, Apples, Pears, Strawberries, Gooseberries, Plums, and Currants. Cutting down Pelargoniums • thinning Chicory ; clipping Yew hedges, also e.\tra tall shoots from Ageratums; cutting oif Hollyhocks 16 in. above stakes, removing faded Sweet William stems ; stubbing up all Winter Green seed-beds, cleaning off Spring Cauliflower land ; looking over Orchids for yellow thrips; cleaning up mixed borders and walks. Earthing. up Brussels Sprouts and three rows of Celery ; manuring land for last Turnips ; digging ground for Onions, Cauliflower, and Broccoli ; preparing a frame for cuttings, also a border for Pelargonium cuttings; watering Rhododendrons and Peach-houses ; removing spare netting from trees and Strawberries. Aug. 5. — Soii-ing — Eudivo, this sowing when planted should not bo put under a wall, wanted for spring crop; sowing second Inter, mediate Stocks. Cuttings of variegated Pelargoniums, and also of Stocks put in. P!a)i.(i/i<7— Wallflowers, also July-sown Bath Cos Let. tuco, and some Paris Cos and Neplus Ultra Cabbage Lettuce ; plant, ing out Celery in broad trench. il/jsci'I/nnciis— Netting Gooseberries. Shifting standard Heliotropes and scented Verbenas; syringing sul. phur olT out. door Poach trees. Getting all old bulbs from pots together and putting them into Vinery ; gathering Gooseberries for preserving. Putting Shallots and Garlic in loft; lifting Myalt'a Prolific Potatoes for seed. Pulling up Peas (wore ready to pull up on July 20 or a week before). Rolling terrace, clipping hedges, clearing away Nettles and rubbish among Laurels and other shrubs. Clearing land for winter Spinach and Endive ; digging Potato-ground for Turnips. Painting orchard-houses and Peach-houses. Watering crops of latest-sown ISeans. Aug. 7. — Soiring — Nemophila ; also main crops of Prickly Spinach; Veitch's Incomparable, Reliance, Imperial, Queen, Little Pixie, Enfield and Red Cabbages; Walcheren Cauliflower; Snow's and Osborn's Broccoli ; Tripoli Onions ; and Cucumbers. Potting — Sir Joseph Paxton Strawberry for forcing ; potting off winter Helio. trope cuttings; potted up Calla cethiopica. Planting — A few more Cauliflowers, and some more Curled Endive ; also a large breadth of Coleworts ; Brompton Stocks and Wallflowers ; layering Carnations ; layering Strawberry runners for planting. Miscellaneous — Staking and tying dwarf Chrysanthemums ; tying and Dailing Peach trees ; nailing Tomatoes. Putting some Amaranthus into houses; trans- ferring Heaths, Aphelexis, and Pha:nocomas from conservatory to open air ; putting Balsams in conservatory, also fifteen young standard Heliotropes and six pots of Sweet Peas. Gathering Peaches, Nectarines, Blue Perdrigon Plum, Elton Pine Strawberries (the only ones now), and Raspberries; putting Shallots into loft ; lifting Milky-white Potato; cutting all Grapes in second Ham- burgh-house; they have not coloured well, too heavy a crop, and not thinned enough. Examining wall trees and Vines for insects; clipping hedges; cleaning and sanding walks; hoeing and clean. ing ribbon border, and first-sown Pea land, and making it ready for other crops ; also old Strawberry land, early Turnip land, early Potato land, early Cauliflower land, and Winter Green seed-beds ; autumn Onions ready to pull, so that this land mii^ht be had it wanted. Earthing up Winter Greens and 1st May-sown Cauliflower ; puttingsoil on Mushroom-bed ; adding a little soil to four rows of Celery ; spawning first Mushroom bed, and soiling it ; turning manure for Cucumbers. Giving air to Hamburgh Grapes until six o'clock to keep them cool, all being black. Aug. 8. — Sowing — Atkins's Matchless, Shilling's Queen, Dwarf Early York, Cattell's Reliance, Enfield Market, Little Pixie, and Early Burns' Cabbage, also Red Cabbage; Walcheren, Early London, and Frogmore Forcing Cauliflower ; Tripoli Onion ; Stone and other Turnips; Radishes; also 100 pots of Newiugton Wonder and Fulmer French Beans. Potting —Cinerarias and Wigandias ; finished potting President Strawberries J'lanting — Endive and Lettuce, latest sown, the latter in trenches; planting three rows Veitch's Autumn Giant Cauliflower and three rows Cooling's Broccoli ; also some second Endive (broad-leaved) ; layering Stiawberry runners for planting; pricking-out Wallflowers ; preparing ground for pricking-out Stocks. Miscellaneous— HaDgisg up Phalajnopsis Lowi in baskets. Began wash- ing Cattleyas ; syringed Azaleas with Gishurst for thrips. Watering Celery every three days. Putting Tripoli Onions in loft ; getting Shallots and Garlic under cover. Looking over wall trees and espa- liers and flower bods ; stopping Perilla where necessary ; looking over Figs for bug ; picking off seed-bearing stems from Pelargoniums; fumigating Orchids for red thrips; earthing-up latest. planted Broc- coli and French Beans under wall; lifting Prolific Potatoes ; digging land for July-sown Cabbage. Aug. 9.— ,Si)i(i'»!7— Prickly Spinach (5 lbs.), Tom Thumb, Bath Cos, All the Year Round, and Victona Lettuce. Cuttings — of Punch, Wensleydale, Tom Thumb, Trentham, aud Minnio Pelar. goniums putting in ; also scented Geraniums. Layering runners for next Strawberry bed ; finishing potting Strawberry plants. Miscellaneous — Moving soaie Azaleas under temporary structures while painting greenhouse ; re-arranging East Indian house ; shift- ing second Victoria Stocks into IS. size flowering-pots. Left off syringing Orchnrd-houso, and put plenty of air on all day. Cutting superfluous shoots from Vines. Thinning last. sown Turnips. Semper Fidelis Raspberries bearing beautifully. Top-dressing Mushroom bed and putting dry Hay on it. Making ground ready for Spinach Aug. 10. — Sou-ing — Mustard and Cress, Radishes, and a long border of Prickly Spinach. Po^toij— Calceolarias and latest Balsams. Cuttings of Salmon, Minnie, Dr. Lindloy, Victor Emanuel, Mrs. Pollock, and Beauty Pelargoniums put in ; alsoof Coleus and Pansies. Planting — Endive, in deep drills, sown July 11. Planting Lettuce under wall, sown July 11, also some Cabbage sown July 1. In the event of failure in the case of July-sown Cabbage, planting some small plants of April. sown Little Pisie, Hill's Incomparable, and Fearnought. Planting some Lettuce sown Juno 21, and thinning the bed. Miscellaneous — Tying Dahlias again, also Polygalas and Chorozemas, Ac; tying Peach trees; staking Chrysanthemums; nailing trees and Tomatoes. Shifting scented Pelargonium cuttings Aug. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 123 into 48.Bizea pots ; also May-sown Cocksoombs ; patting also Maxil- larias into Cattleya and Dendrobium house ; also Dendrobiam Benaoni and crystalUnum half in Odontoglossum and half in Cattleya house ; gather in Chilies, Gherkins, and French Beans for pickling ; cutting last Perfection Melon ; first Peach gathered from orchard house ; gathering Apricots; sent in 30 lbs. Gooseberries. Figs ripening pretty freely. Earthing up winter Greens ; cleaning scale off Ste- phanotis; fumigating greenhouse for thrips; stopping Vines ; clean, ing up, sanding, and salting walks ; clipping Box edgings; catting Laurels. Giving Parsley lime, soot, and guano ; top-dressing Rosea in pots; plunging tree Mignonette. Grapes not colouring well, too heavy a crop. Preparing soil for Intermediate Stocks ; making border ready for Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce seed ; drying herbs. Watering flower garden again ; also Peach trees out-of-doors, mulching afterwards with hay. Watering third Peach.house, giving eighteen potfuls to a tree; giving Scarlet Eunners guano-water, twenty potfuls to a row. Aug. 11.— Cuttings— oi Arabis albida variegata. Pansy (under hand glass) scented Verbenas and Pelargoniums put in. Planting — June-sown Endive, that sown in July having failed ; Parsley. Miscellaneous — Tying Salvia splendens, tying up Lettuce ; nailing Tomatoes in orchard-house. Netting Jargonelle Pears and late Gooseberries ; removing nets from Raspberries. Shifting inter, mediate Stocks and Carnations (3 sorts). Washing Odontoglossums and Cattleyas. Sent last Strawberries and Gooseberries in to-day. Beginning to remove breastwood from Apple and Pear trees ; cutting down Pelargoniums ; earthing up Beans under walls ; rolling all walks after rain having first cleared them of weeds ; putting wharf, sand on walks ; clipping Box edgings; finishing layering Strawberry runners for planting ; digging land for latest Turnips ; making ground ready for Leeks ; getting up nine loads of manure for Violet bed and Mushroom bed ; getting cool-house pipes joined to boiler ; drying Basil, Mint, Thyme, Sage, Hyssop, and Penny Royal (Mar. joram afterwards) ; Grapes seem to colour best with a night tempera, tare of from 65° to 70° with air, and a day temperature of ,75° with air. Watering third Peach-house trees. Aug. 12. — Sowing — Syon House Cucumber; Mignonette (100 pots) ; Phlox, Nemophila, Clintonia, Lobelia, and Rhodanthe. Potting — 100 pots of Violets ; also summer-struck Pelargoniums into 48-eize pots ; potting oS winter Cucumbers. Cuttings — of Rival Stella, Cloth of Gold, and Scented-leaved Pelargonium put in ; also Alternanthera. Planting —Some Endive, also Rockets. Layering Strawberry runners, viz., 300 Garibaldi, 300 Sir Harry, 300 Keen's Seedling, 200 British Queen, 150 Sir C. Napier, 150 Black Prince, 150 Hantbois. Blocking or basketing fresh Orchids. Miscellaneous — Tying Polygalas. Finishing stating old and rather large Chrysan. themums ; nailing Tomatoes. Netting late Vinery. Shif Ling spring, struck scented Verbenas. Washing Cattleyas. Watering Peach trees outside and Rhododendrons. Cutting Lavender; sent in first Celery, also Pears, viz., Citron des Carmes and Doyenne d'Ete ; and Trans- parent Apple ; sent in a basket of Morello Chenies, 13 lbs. Plunging Tree Carnations and Cloves. Cutting Portugal Laurels. Making drills ready for Spinach. Clearing away first French Beans for Endive ; and digging in front of Fig-honse ready for Endive. Getting up manure for autumn supply. Keeping Melons from V0° to 75° at night, and from 75° to 80° by day ; East Indian Orchids from 73° to 75° at night, and from 78° to 80° by day, with fire heat, and 90° under sun heat ; Cattleyas, 70° at night, and 75° by day with fire heat, and from 85° to 90° with sun heat; Odontoglossums (no fire heat), 60° at night, and from 65° to 70° by day. A Spading Machine. — A trial was made last week on Van Rensselaer Island, below this city, of a spading machine, constructed, after three years' experiment, by the late Mr. W. B. Bleecker, of New York, and during the year since his death by his son, Mr. H. Bleecker. The work is done by a number of forks, each of two tines, worked by cams inside the drive wheels, which are enclosed to prevent choking by the displaced earth. The movement of the forks is somewhat similar to that of the forks on a hay-tedder. They enter the ground in front of the main shaft, and are thence carried back, lifting the soil very much as is done by the ordinary spading fork, and leaving the ground in precisely the same condition. The trial machine spaded a strip 3 ft. wide and over 8 in. deep, as fast as a pair of horses could walk ; but the displacement of so large a quantity of earth (equal to three furrows 12 in. wide and 8 in. deep) was too much for an ordinary team, and three horses were needed for this amount of work. The quality of the work was, in the opinion of those present, all that could be desired, leaving the field like a .garden. — " Country Gentleman," THE FRUIT GARDEN. PRBPAEING STRAWBEREY PLANTS FOR FORCING. In almost every garden establishment this is a very important matter, and growers are pretty nearly all agreed so far as to consider that young plants, that is, plants produced by the runnel's of the current year, are in all respects the best for the purpose of being forced into fruit during the early part of next season ; and success in this matter depends very greatly npon securing and encouraging the healthy development of such plants as rapidly and early as is possible, in order that they may be thoroughly matured before the season has become too far advanced. lu order to secure this desideratum various methods are practised successfully, although some of them are more troublesome in their details than is perhaps really neces- sary. A common way is to plunge the frniting-pot, of some 5 in. or 6 in, in diameter, between the rows of iruit-bearing plants, such pots being filled with properly-prepared soil, and on the surface of which some of the earliest-developed runners are carefully placed find secured with a peg or small stone. Early runners thus secured generally root freely into the rich soil contained in the pots, and as soon as they are considered to be fairly established, the connectiou between them and the old plants is severed, and the young plants are removed to a suitable situation, and being already in their fruiting-pots they do not sustain any check by being re-potted. There are, how- ever, objections to this method of securing plants for forcing, as the plunging of the pots between the rows of fruit-bearing plants at a time when the fruit is either ripe or appi-oaching that condition is inconvenient. In most gardens it is also necessary to cover plantations of Strawberry plants with nets to protect the ripe fruit from the ravages of birds, while dry weather very frequently sets in about this time, which renders frequent watering of tlie young plants in pots necessary, and the treading amongst the plants during the performance of this operation, the removing and replacing of the nets, &c., are apt to prove injurious to the fruit. Another method is to layer the runners into smaller pots, or pots of some 3 in. in diameter, filled with light, rich soil, and as soon as they have become well rooted to cut them from the old plants and re-pot them into their fruiting-pots, which should be about 5 in. or 6 in. in diameter, placing them in a favourable situation, well exposed to the sun, and keeping them well supplied with water. Now it is necessary that the plants should be in their fruiting-pots before the end of Julj', and if this can be accomplished at au earlier period so much the better. This is, perhaps, a better plan than layering the runners into their fruiting-pots at once. A better plan, however, is to use small pieces of freshly- cut turf some 4 in. or Sin. in diameter; sink them slightly in the soil between the rows of Strawberry plants, placing the grassy side dosvn, and on each piece of turf peg a strong runner, which will emit roots into it very freely, and will nob so frequently require watering as plants in pots. These pieces of turf should, when the young plants have become well rooted, be carefully raised with the plants upon them, and potted in 6-in. pots. AVhero large numbers of plants are wanted, it might not be convenient to adopt this plan with the entire stock, but it might be resorted to with advantage in the case of plants likely to be required for very early forcing. The Strawberry season, or the period during which this fruit can be obtained from plants growing in the open air, is com- paratively short, seldom greatly exceeding one month, or, say from about the middle of Juue to the middle or end of July, according to the season ; but, by means of gentle forcing, or growing the plants under glass, the Strawberry season may be very considerably extended ; attempts to produce ripe fruit at Christmas, or very early in the year, even when attended with success, are seldom worthy of what they cost. But with the necessary appliances little difficulty is experienced in having a supply of fruit of good quality from about the beginning of March until it is ripe in the open air, and this without having recourse to what may be considered very early forcing. Different growers have different methods of preparing the plants for forcing, and ometimes with equally good results. There is, however, one ircumstance npon -whicb aU are generally agreed, viz., that 124 THE GARDEN. [Atjg. 5, 1876. youug plants are almost aln-ays found to furnish the earliest and strongest runners, and on that account it is advisable to adopt the plan of planting annually as early as possible during July a portion of plants of the various kinds intended for forc- ing, and these plants should be cultivated for the sole purpose of supplying early runners for the nest year's supply of plants for forcing. A piece of rich, light soil should be selected, and the different sorts should be planted out in lines at considerable distances apart, say not less than a yard, so as to prevent the different runners becoming mixed. Such plants should not be allowed to bear fruit ; on. the contrary, they should have the flowers carefully picked off, a practice -which tends to promote the production of early and strong runners. The somewhat -wide space between the lines of plants ■will now be found to be convenient for the purpose of plunging the pots intended to receive the runners, vfhich should be se- cured on their surface if this method be pursued ; or if preferred, the use of the pots for this purpose may be dispensed with altogether, and the space between the rows of plants should, as soon as runners are about to be produced, be' well loosened up, and should at the same time receive a surface-dressing of leaf-soil, or some similar material, to facilitate the rooting of the runners into this soil. When this has taken place to some extent, they should be carefully lifted with a portion of the soil adhering to their roots, and at once potted into small pots and placed for a week or ten days in a close frame or pit. By the end of that time they will be found to be well established in their pots, and may then be fully exposed to the open air, ■when they should bo well supplied with water during dry •weather. As soon as the pots are well filled with roots, the plants should be transferred to their fruiting pots, which should be about 6 in. in diameter. Pots of this size being found to be the most suitable for this purpose, they should be placed upon or plunged in a bed of cinder ashes, old tan, or tree leaves, in a suitable and well exposed situa- tion, when they may generally be allowed to remain until they are placed in the forcing house, keeping the surface of the pots free from weeds, and giving water when necessary. The young plants should be fully matured by the eud of October, when it may, during some seasons, be neces- sary to shelter them in some way from heavy autumnal rain. And they should also be protected from severe frost by means of a slight covering of straw, Fern, or other light littery material. Strawberries, when planted out-of-doors, gene- rally succeed best in a somewhat stiff or even heavy soil. It is not, however, advisable to use mould of too heavy a nature for them when in pots, as such a soil is apt to allow the water to escape by the sides of the pots without thoroughly permeat- ing the balls or reaching the roots. For potting, probably the best soil is turf, not exceeding 3 in. in thickness, pared from a rich loamy pasture. This .should be stacked in layers, with an occasional layer of good, rich manure between those of turf ; and when this compost has lain some twelve months, more or less, it will be in good condition for purposes of potting. When chopped up, it may have added to it a small portion of bone-dust, soot, or other material, with the view of further enriching it, should this be considered necessary ; the pots used must bo perfectly clean both inside and out, and as the area of a 5-iu. or C-in. pot is not great, and this size is found to be, in all respects, the most suitable, it is not advisable to occupy a greater portion of it than is absolutely necessary with drainage, although thorough drainage is of the gre.atest im- portance. This may nevcrtlieless be secured by one crock or piece of pot-shred, which should be so placed as to cover the hole at the bottom of the pot for the exclusion of worms, and, at the same time to allow water to escape freely. This crock should bo covered with a small portion of fresh Moss, which will prevent the soil from obistructing the drainage, and being of a somewhat enduring nature, Moss is bettor suited for this purpose than flakes of manure or other material, which soon decay. When ttje plants arc potted into their fruiting-pots, care should bo taken that the balls are not too dry ; neither should the soil used for potting bo by any means wet ; on the contrary, it should rather be inclined to dryness, in order that the plants may bo potted firmly, and the pots must not be filled too full of soil, or they will not retain a sufficiency of water to moisten tho balls thoroughly; space must also be afforded for a surface-dressing of some enriching material, which should be applied when the plants arc taken into the forcing-house, or as soon as they are about starting into growth. Little need be said as regards the sorts best suited for forcing, as most growers have their favourite varieties, and some sorts, even when grown under glass, succeed better in one locality than they do in others. For very early " work," however. Black Prince is still a general favourite, and although the fruit is small it is never- theless abundant and of good quality ; La Grosse Sucree is by some considered very suitable for early forcing, and Keen's Seedling still holds its own, notwithstanding so many new and improved introductions ; Sir Joseph Paxton has been found here to be one of the best forcing as well as for open-air cul- ture ; Sir Charles Napier is also an excellent variety, with a very pleasing sub-acid flavour, wich is much relished by some ; it has like-n'ise the very desirable quality of bearing carriage well, which renders it often very valuable. Dr. Hogg bears so close a resemblance to British Queen that it is unnecessary to force both sorts, and, of the two, I prefer British Queen for forcing, the former being, however, the less tender of the two, is best for open-air culture. The following half-dozen sorts are all very suitable for forcing, viz., Black Prince, Vicomtesse Hericart do Thnry, Keen's Seedling, Sir Joseph Paxton, Sir Charles Napier, and British Queen. P. Gbieve. Gulford Gardens, Bury 8t Edmunds. Wire'worms and Vine Boots. — I was asked a month ago by Mr. Ballantyne, of Walkerburn, to look at some reoently planted Vines. On meeting tho gardener, I asked what wag the matter with his young Tines. Hia reply was, "that tho wirewortu was eating their roots as fast as they were formed." I professed to be sceptical as to wireworm attacking Vine roots. " I will soon convince you," said he, and, scraping away the soil with his hands, he got many young roots that were eaten through, and also wireworms, but for a time none in the act of eating a Vine root. Close to the leading stem of a Vine a whorl of young roots had been produced, and with an air of triumph he asked me to examine them for myself, and I would see ho was right ; and there, most certainly, I found a strong young root like a quill eaten through, about an inch from the stem of the Vine, and the wireworm all but out of sight up through it, having consumed its centre. I pulled the worm out of the roots myself. I am, however, aware that wireworms in a Vino border do no harm to Vine roots in nine cases out of ten. I do not think the roots of the Vine are its favourite food, but the roots of certain Grasses ; and while these last the Vines are safe, tho wire, worm, as a rule, disappearing before the soil is cleared of their favourite food ; but I have seen notable exceptions to this rule. At Dalquharon Castle the Hon. F. Kennedy had two sets of Vines destroyed by wireworm. This evidence, given by Mr. W. Thomson, in " The Gardener," leaves little doubt as to the conduct of wireworm in Vine borders. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FRUIT GARDEN. Another New Melon !— I am not rejoiced to learn that our pood friend, Gilbert, is engaged in adding to tho already ovor-numerous tribe of now MolonSa which are only now in name, nnd very oftoa worse than specimens of tho greon- fleshod and other Melons in cnltivation a generation ago. Tho flavour of a Melon generally depends on tho conditiona under which it is grown, warmth of tho season, &c., and it is quite absurd to distinguish with a prize any fruit that happens to havo a good flavour and bo new, or called so ; nil siu-h practices should bo resented by every lovor of horticulture, as they do much harm.— A. W. H. Keeping Lady Downos Grapes from " Scalding." — Lady Downos Grape being especially liable to scald just as tho berries begin to change from tho sour to the eacchurino etuto. a suro. and as I havo proved, the onlj' pre- ventive is to give air frcoly night and day the moment the Brst berry ia scon to change colour. The period at which they are tho most liable to scald varies from ten to twenty days, during which time tho house should be aired like an ordinary greenhouse night and day, and if the weather render it necessary, fire•hcll^ must bo applied in order to maintain a minimum temperaturo of 65°, — \V. W. H. Sntton's Great Britain Pear.— A seedling of the Bartlett, raised by Mr, William Sutton, Cornwallis, Nova Scotia; tho tree is said to bo hardy, with stout, short-jointed, dark coloured, young wood ; fruit largo, showy, very productive, and becoming popular as a market fruit. Fruit large, pyriform, a little obtuse ; ekin, grccniBh-yellow or pale yellow, often with a shade of rod where exposed, slight nettings and patches of russet, and many russet dots; stalk long, rather htout, a little inclined, set in a small cavity ; calyx open ; basin shallow, a little uneven ; flesh whitish, a little coarse, half melting, juicy, sweet and pleasant. Ripens about ton days later tban the Bartlett (WilUam). — Cdab. DOWWIMO, Aua. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 125 NOTES OP THE WEEK- The Ninth Volume op " The Garden." — Bonnd copies of thia are now ready, and may meet the wants of sach readers as, during the past three months, were disappointed in getting complete sets from the beginning of the year. The volume contains twenty-six plates, title, frontispiece, &c., and a fall index. Ehexia vikginica. — Thia rare and beantifnl perennial is now in blossom in the only nursery abont London where it grows freely— Messrs. Osborn'g, at Fulham. It ia a little Melastomaceous plant that ventures far north over the American bogs. lu thia country it is quite at home in the bog garden. New Pabk at BiRstiNGHAii. — A fifth public park — Sumraerfield Park — was formally opened at Birmingham on Saturday afternoon by the Itayor, Alderman Baker. It compriaea a well.wooded estate of some seventeen acres in extent, surrounding an old and capacious brick mansion, and is situated in one of the poorer quarters of the town, near the gaol and the workhouse. Lobelia Doktmanni at Killaknet. — Owing to the continued drought the Killarney lakes are unusually low thia summer ; conse- quently the beautiful water Lobelia, which abounds in the shallow waters, has in many places laid aside its wonted aquatic habit of merely showing ita flowers above the waters, and the appearance of broad lines and patches of it in full flower — the whole plant exposed — is, according to the " Irish Farmers' Gazette," somewhat novel and very striking. Improved Double Balsams. — Change may seem to have done its utmost in the case of some families of plants, and perhaps the Balsam is one of those flowers in which improvement is least noticed. Yet nothing can be more striking than the double Balsams now to be seen at Messrs. F. & A. Smith's Nursery at Dulwich — pure white varieties, like a double white Camellia ; delicate rose blooms, like fully opened Boses ; brilliant double-scarlet blosaoma again remarkably like Gamelliaa, and so on through many colours. Oleaeia Haastii. — Messrs. Barron & Song, Elvaston Nui-series, Borrowash, have sent us flowering specimens of this comparatively little known Asteraceous shrub. The plant from which they wore cut is stated to be about 2^ ft. high, and as much through, and to be one mass of bloom, so sweetly scented as to make the air quite fragrant in its neighbourhood. The leaves, which are small and Box- like, are silvery beneath and bright green above, and as the habit of the plant ia compact and good, it will prove a valuable addition to our hardy evergreen shrubs. Beautiful Petunias. — Mr. Cannell, of Swanley, haa aent us a ■whole flower garden of Petunias of the most beautiful and varied colours. We fancied we had some knowledge of the way in which Petunias varied, but had no conception that the variation was so great until we received this batch. Perhaps the most beautiful are those of a deep crimson and violet, and the most showy those with broad bands of purple alternating with the purest white bands. Words, however, fail to convey any adequate idea of their variety and beauty. Single flowers of these Petunias nipped off with only half- an-inch of stem below the base of the tube have kept quite fresh in water for three days, proving them to be naef al for catting. New Trees and Shrubs in Ireland. — Some of our correspondents having lately inquired as to where the beautiful Abelia triflora, recently figured in The Garden, could be obtained, Dr. Moore writes to us from Glasnevin concerning it as follows : — I have made some inquiries of nurserymen who had plants of it from ns, but I cannot hear from them that they have it on sale. It is surprising how little attention ia paid to really good plants by many of our nurserymen. One large plant of it haa been very grand this year, and is still in flower. I have just had a hasty run through the South of Ireland, where I saw many fine things, which do not thrive equally well on the east coast. At Lismore Castle I saw many plants of Phormium tenax in full flower. The flower-stema rise about 12 ft. high, and bear panicles of large purplish blossoms, in the way of those of Anigosanthus. The Himalayan Rhododendrons are assuming their tree.like habit, and growing luxuriantly. At Lakelands, near Queens- town, County Cork, there are many fine plants, but what delighted me most was Magnolia Campbelli. The largest plant of it is from 20 ft. to 25 ft. high, quite tree.like, with a thick stem ; the branches may be from 12 ft. to 13 ft. in diameter. I saw all the new plants with Mr. Gumbleton, who ia doing good service by trying everything that ia reputed to be in any way hardy. He ia aucceeding very aatia- faotorily, and will no doubt be able to render a good account of hia stewardship soon. His beds of the new Begonias, with scarlet flowers, are very charming and effective. When well and carefully handled, they are fine things for gardens where the climate is favourable. STRAWBERRIES— A FULL CROP IN TEN MONTHS FKOM THE TIME OF PLANTING. By Petee Hendeesoit. Our success in the culture of Strawberries, by the system of lay- ering the runners in pots, has been so complete during the past season, that even at the risk of repeating some of the directions already given, I will briefly state how it is done. In July of 1875 we threw out every other row of the plants that had fruited, thus leaving the rows 4s ft. apart. This space between the rows was deeply ploughed three or four times, so as to thoroughly pulverise it. It was then leveled with a rake, and the runnera from the old plants, aa they began to grow freely, were led out upon it. Flower-pote, 2i in. in diameter, were filled with the soil and plunged into it up to the brim, and the layers or buds at the ends of the runners were placed on the earth in these pots. To keep the runners in their places, we used small flat stones which were laid upon them, and these also helped to mark the places where the pots were sunk. The layers thus placed on the soil of the pots were not only kept down, but were kept moist by the stone, and rooted rapidly. In from two to four weeks from the time the operation was done the plants were well rooted in the pots, and ready to be set out. Oar planta laat year were set out from the pots the first week in August ; not a single plant died, and all grew freely. They were set in rows 2 ft. apart, and 18 in. between the plants, and all the runnera made were at once pinched off, so that by the end of the season each plant was nearly a foot in diameter, having finely developed "crowna" for next season's fruiting. The ground had been first prepared before planting by ploughing and subsoiling to the depth of 18 in., turning down at the same time 3 in, or 4 in. of well- rotted manure. Of course the ground waa kept entirely clear of weeda. By the middle of December the whole bed of Strawberry planta waa covered with salt meadow hay (straw, leaves, or anything similar will do as well), to the depth of 2 in. or 3 in., entirely covering up the plants and soil so that nothing was seen but the hay. By April the planta showed indications of growth, then the hay was pushed a little aside, and by May the fully developed plant showed on the clean surface of the hay. This mulching ia indispensable to the best culture, as it protects the plants from the cold in winter, keeps the fruit clean, and at the same time keeps the roots cool by shading the soil from the hot sun in June. The crop began ripening June 10th, and was at its best on June 15th; the yield was perfectly enormous. Each plant averaged a quart, many of the berriea being nearly an ounce in weight. Our soil is heavy clayey loam, with a stiff subsoil. I am convinced that the most profitable way to grow Strawberries, either for market or for private use, is by this system. Any handy man can place 2000 layers in pota in a day. Each layer, in ten montha, makes a plant that gives a full crop of fruit. The labour is less than by any other method, because nothing more has to be done after planting but to keep the crop clear of weeds and pinch off the runnera for only six weeks of the year, while with beds planted in spring, in the usual way, you have nearly six months' work on them, with no better plants in the autumn. Besides, where ground ia limited, there ia plenty of time by thia system to throw out the planta that have fruited in June, and plant the same ground over again in August with the young plants from pota. That is really our own practice, for the space devoted to Strawberries is less than an acre. In our experiments during the past season, we found that no variety which had been left two seasons to fruit produced so large a crop as the young planta, and the berries were hardly half the size. This system of starting plants in pota, and setting them out in August, properly carried out, will never fail to give entire aatisfaction in growing Strawberriea. — "American Agrioulturiat." The Prince of Wales' Plum. — Thia Plum, which ia largely grown in London market gardens, has suffered much this year from a curious and peculiar decay of the branches, which ia supposed to be owing to the severe weather in spring. The same affliction haa been noticed of late yeara, but it was not ao injurioua as during the present year. Daelingtonia Californioa at Glasnevin.— The large specimen of Darlingtonia at Glasnevin has, says the " Irish Farmers' Gazette," thia season produced pitchers fully 3 ft. high. It flowered recently, and is now swelling its seed capsules. We also learn that Cordylino Banksi, in flower in the same garden, has mnch increased in beauty. The Wild Carnation from Palaise. — The Kev. H. T. Ellacombe has sent us a flower of Dianthus Caryophyllus, from a plant growing in his garden at Clyst St. George, Topsham. ■' I brought it," he says, " from the rnins of the chateau at Falaise two years ago, the place where William the Conqueror was born. It is the same Pink which grows on Rochester Castle, and which is very rarely found elsewhere. The great interest which attaches to this plant is that Rochester Castle (there may be one or two others where it haa been found) waa bnilt by William and his followers, and the fact remains that on the ruins of their buildings the Falaise Pink is still growing." 126 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 5, 1876. THE FLOWER GARDEN. WALLFLOWERS— ENGLISH AND ERBNCH. M. CHATii's mode of growing Wallflowers is so dissimilar to that practised in England, that one is led to imagine that it must apply exclusively to the Continent. Wallflowers, accord- ing to our notions, are more correctly classed thus : — Single Biennials, Double Biennials, and Perennial Double kinds. Of those the first and last are well known ; the second, which are of Continental origin, arc grown here almost, if not entirely, from imported seed. The Single Biennial section is the most popular, and our best strains of it are unequalled for richness of colouring and sweetness of perfume. The superb, dark crimson-marked kinds grown around London are too well known to need description, and can be bought in the seed trade under the various designations of Young's Blood-red, Harbinger, and Saunders' Dark, all good strains of this popular Wallflower. The Belvoir Castle Yellow is a close, compact- growing kind, which produces bright yellow flowers, and is specially suitable for spring bedding. It is basily recognised by its dwarf growth, pale green foliage, and pale flower-buds. The Golden Yellow — or, as it has been misnamed, Tom Thumb Yellow — is as robust and tall as the crimson kinds, and pro- duces in great abundance masses of rich, orange-yellow bloom. This is a grand kind well worthy the attention of market growers. In country districts the common Single Wallflower is usually a compound of all these, and, therefore, deficient in that rich and effective colouring so peculiar to good, pure strains of the Single Wallflower. In London market gardens, where the Wallflower is in- variably well cultivated, seed is sown in the open ground early in February ; the young plants are put out into their per- manent quarters in May, and by Christmas, if the winter be mild, they will produce bloom, and will be so large that they ■would not be covered by a bushel basket. If required for spring bedding, they should still be sown early and be planted out in some spare ground about 12 in. apart. These plants will lift with good balls of earth early in winter, and in spring ■will produce superb masses of bloom. Some market growers sow seed late in the summer, allow the young plants to remain in the seed-bed all the winter, plant out in March, and, if the season be favourable, reap a good crop of flowers all through the next winter. The biennial double kinds are remarkable for the variety of colours which they furnish, and the stout woodi- ness of habit which they present ; indeed, in these respects they resemble a distinct species, but probably this is due to their hybrid character. M. Chatd speaks of them as being the result of crossing the single and double Yellow kinds, but if liis double Yellow be identical with that of our gardens, I think he must be mistaken, as I believe, like the double Stock, the flowers are destitute of pollen. I cannot write with accuracy as to the hardiness of these Continental double sorts in the north, but in the neighbourhood of Southampton I have seen grand masses of flower obtained from them in April from seed sown the previous spring in a gentle heat, and planted out and treated as before mentioned for the single-bedding kinds. Probably from lack of sweet- uess these doubleand semi-double forms have not bocomefavour- ites with the British public, who seem greatly to prefer their old single varieties. The double perennial kinds familiar to us are the Yellow, dark Crimson, Red, and dwarf Yellow. The yellow is most common, and a beautiful clear-coloured kind it is, and a great favourite it is with cottagers, who propagate it by putting in slips of it in their peculiar and usually successful fashion about the time the plants are in (lower. It can be pro- pagated freely by means of slips put in under hand-lights in sharp, sandy soil, and will produce plants capable of flowering the ne.\t spring. The other kinds are amenable to the same mode of propagation, the most common of these being the Red, an intermediate form that resembles the tall Yellow, but which has a shade of colour that is neither striking nor pleasing. The old dark Crimson is now apparently almost extinct; in colour the flowers are almost blick and very striking. I met with it occasionally twenty-five years ago, but since then I have not seen it. The dwarf Yellow has flowers of a dull, almost bull tint, but it is fairly well adapted for pot culture. ^, P^ HARDY FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. Our most beautiful and popular Gentians are associated with spring, but now, in the time of Yuccas, and Lilies, and showy flower-beds, we have also the beautiful blue of the Gentians represented by the Marsh Gentian (Gentiana Pneumonanthe), the tall, Asclepias-like GentianandG. septemfida. It is, we might add, refreshing to see the bright blue of these flowers quite vivid wbeu many other flowers are rusty from the recent drought. One of the most brilliant and graceful of perennials is the Zauschneria calitornica, now coming into flower. It detests some cold and stiff soils, and therefore is not common. Few plants better deserve a permanent place in our flower borders. The Sea Bindweed (Convolvulus Soldanella) is charming just now, especially when placed on a rock or root garden or raised border, although it will thrive perfectly well on the level ground and in any soil. The Blue Rock Bind- weed (Convolvulus mauritanicus), mentioned before, is still fresh and lovely, and is, perhaps, seen to greatest advantage on raised borders. In the smallest collection this plant, which, though grown in greenhouses, is quite hardy, should have a place. Another modest-looking trailing plant is the Creeping \'"ervain (Zapania nodiflora), now beginning to open its numer- ous delicate flowers, densely covering its prostrate stems which run all over the ground. The beautiful and well-known Cam- panula turbinata is a stately object. It reminds us of the charming eilcct in one of Miss Marian Chase's pictures, in one of the water-colour exhibitions this j'ear, showing the interior of a church in Brittany beautifully embellished with stately pyramids of this plant grown in pots. The distinct-looking and, when grown on light soil, the stately Acanthuses are beginning to bloom on the London cla}', though they never assume the graceful and stately port which they do on open and deep soils. The hybrid varieties of Potentilla have generally suffered much from the heat, but the dwarf, Double Creeping Potentilla (P. reptans fl.-pl.) is now fresh and pretty. Among many dwarf Alpine flowers Mcehriugia muscosa is noticeable. Two plants at present in flower are remarkable for their graceful habit and foliage, Astilbe rivularis.a hard^' Spirrea-like perennial from Nepaul, growing about -I ft. high, and the still taller Hemp-like Datisca caiiuabina, from Crete. Among her- baceous plants the old Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis) is conspicuous : and among aquatics tbo while flowers of the creeping Bog Arum (Calla palustris) .are welcome when so many of our water plants have gone out of flower. Among annuals, which wo may group with hardy flowers, the Zinnias, the Common Tobacco, and French j\tarigolds are conspicuous. Lilies are still beautiful, notably L. canadenso and L. superbum. Torrey's variety of tbe Bearded Pentstemoa is also very fine. Mr. AVare sends us a beautiful specimen of a large ffinothera, called montana. A pretty blue perennial is Dracoccphalum altaiense, which is free, hard3-, and an abundant bloomer. The old Scarlet Lychnis is very fine now, and is worth growing if only for the sake of the cut flowers. We notice the DoubleWhito of this, an uncommon plant at Ware's. Among the Staticcs S. incana is one of the best. There is a host of Alliums in flower, but few of them are worth cultivation, on account of their unpleasant odour. There are also many fine Campanulas, one of the best being Campanula Hosti alba. The handsomest of the Composit;o now in flower is Gaillardia grandiflora. Two of the most welcome flowers of the season are Cyclamen europajum and Parnassia palustris (Gi'ass of Parnassus). Fremontia Galifornica. — Tlih has boon blooming here on a south wall eiuco the iniJdlo ot May. Its flowers are very ciirioualy placeJ on the younp shoots ot tho current year at tho nodes just opposilo the leaf-stalk and wood. hud, on the roverso side ot tho shoot, exactly whero the tendril ot a Vino would be produced; they are solitary, deep orango.colonred, something like the flowers of aa Abutilon, with tho petals turned back, and quite as largo aa a crown pioco ; there is no caly.v to the flower, and tho seeds are in a round capsule, which is not seen until tho flower drops. I hopo to find the seed ripen this season. The plant produces a succession of flowers as it advances in growth; they are in all Btages, from tho size ot a pin's head to that ot tho full open flower. This plant will at least bo hardv 03 (ho south coast, — W. D. WiMlioitxK. Aug. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 127 Pyramidal Hairbell (Campanula pyramidalis) . Worm-grass (Spigelia marylandica) . Prickly-le&ved Bear's-bieecli (Acanthus spmoeus). Vermilion Zauscbneria (Z. californica.) Rosy Sea Lavender (Statice exunia) Double-flowered Zinnia (Z. elegans). SOME HARDY FIOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. Hairy Bpilobium {B. hirsutum). 128 THE GARDEN. [Au6. 5, 1876, SCRAMBLING ROSES. "We have a pretty extensive collectioa of Roses, but one o£ the most attractive specimens oq the place is an old double white Ayrshii-e Rose ajrowing in a group oE common Laurel in the shrubberies. We cannot tell how old the plant may be, but it has probably been in its present situation for thirty years, struggling the best way it could to keep its place among the tall-growing Laurels, sometimes sending out a shoot of white flowers on this side and sometimes on that side of the clump of bushes, and sometimes scrambling up to the tops of the tallest limbs and draping them with its blossoms throughout June and July. Nearly three years ago we had the Laurels headed down to within 6 ft. of the ground, leaving the straggling limbs of the Rose which were found amongst tliem, and since then it has grown and thriven amazingly, and now fairly threatens to gain the mastery. We had the curiosity to measure the plant the other day, and found it rather over 70 ft. in circumference. Within this space the plant forms an irregular undulating mound, nearly in all parts so densely covered with Roses that not so much as a hand's breadth is left vacant anywhere, and the Laurel branches are quite hidden and, in fact, are now dying, smothered by the Rose. A finer example of luxuriant development we never saw. The plant has been a perfect sheet of bloom for a mouth or more, and there are thousands of buds yet to expand, and hundreds of bunches of buds have been cut just at the opening stage- when they are neater and whiter than a Gardenia — to send away. The tree has never received the least attention or assistance, with the exception of the removal of the Laurel tops before mentioned, to let the light into it. It is grow- ing in a tolerably deep and strong, dry loam, and this, toge- ther with head mora, seems to be all it requires. AVe record this example simply to show of what the Rose is capable without much cultural assistance. No doubt, in order to pro- duce fine individual blooms certain restricted culture is necessary; but almost any variety of Rose will make a good- sized natural bush of itself, and as for the climbing or pillar Roses, the less they are touched the better. Of course, we are not alluding to the Rosery proper, but of Roses in their more natural aspect, as when planted to hide fences, cover rockeries, or as striking objects on lawns. Some time ago there was published as a novelty (but which was nothing of the kind) an illustration of a kind of triangular wire cage on which to train Roses on lawns, the Roses being planted inside and clipped or cut to the shape of the cage. Such contri- vances have been common ever since we can remember, and they are of various shapes and sizes ; but at the best they have a very artificial appearance, and never make a Rose tree look so well as when it is allowed to grow in its own natural way. When climbing Roses are planted as solitary objects on a lawn they, of course, want something to support them at first ; and for this purpose nothing is better or more convenient than four or five thin flat iron rods bent over each other at right angles, with their ends in the ground so as to form a circular mound about 4 ft. high and G ft. through. The Rose tree is planted under the hoops, in the centre of the circle, and as it grows a limb is trained each way to form the foundation of the future plant, and after the first or second year it is left entii-ely to itself. The supports are soon covered, and a large and natural-looking mound of Roses is the result. We have seen specimens of this kind twenty years old, in which the wood had accumulated about 2 ft. or more deep all over the trelh's, and yet nowhere was there any dead wood to bo seen, owing to the plants throwing out fresh limbs annually, which covered the old ones. The plants, in fact, grow exactly in the same manner as the wild Brier, which, as everybody knows, keeps sending up long shoots from the centre of the plant, increasing its size every year. Those who desire very large mounds rnny have them just as easily as small ones, and in about as little time, by increasing the size of the iron frame- work and planting the Roses — as many as they choose — round the sides. This would leave the space inside vacant, and, by keeping the internal surface clipped with a pair of shears, they would have a veritable bower of Roses. This is one way of utilising climbing Rosea, and it is a plan by which they can bo got to show themselves off to advantage, which they cannot do so well on rockeries and fences, &c., where they are usnally trimmed annually to keep them within bounds, and the trimming impairs their appearance. E.'ccept against walls, and in similar situations, there is no occasion to prune climbing Roses. Left to themselves, they make by far the grandest display, and to insure this it is only necessary to provide them with a good, deep, strong soil at the beginning, and to let them have a fair amount of light an all sides. AVhether planting be carried out with the object above described, or for the purpose of covering naked tree stumps or limbs, or for draping any unsightly object whatever, liberal treatment in the first instance is the main thing. A good soil m.ikes all the difference in time and in the perma- nent vigour of the tree, and were we desirous of having a great Rose tree (whether it be a common Ayrshire or a Gloire de Dijon, that we expected to produce thousands of blooms in a few years), we should, if the soil were not naturally strong and deep, provide a well-drained pit and fill it with two or three good cartloads of sound loam and manure : thus treated, the result is certain, provided an unrestricted growth be per- mitted. AVhat has been accomplished with the Vino in the way of unlimited extension can also be done with the Rose. Close pruning was formerly thought to be absolutely neces- sary for the production of good fruit and well-furnished trees, but that notion has been practically exploded, and it is now found that the less the knife is used and the more the tree is allowed to grow, within certain limits, the stronger and the more fruitful it is. But how stands the case with the Rose ? Quite a different doctrine is taught, and yet the object in view is the same ; we cannot see how a Rose tree differs from a Vine or other fruit tree as regards the production of (lowers. One of the best writers on Rose culture recommends tolerably close annual pruning, regulating operations by the vigour of the plants, only shortening strong wood less and weak wood more. But why cut at all so much, unless with the object of trimming ? We would go further even and ask. Is it proved that the usual cutting back process is necessary to the pro- ductionof what ai'e called exhibition blooms ? Would not the extension S3'steni of training and a high-root culture give equally good results, and large handsome bushes at the same time, instead of mere stumps, such as close-pruned Roses usually remain to the end of their existence." Allowances must, of course, be made for different varieties, but these questions are worth considering. One is often struck with those large specimens of hybrid perpetuals and other dwarf types, to be seen in cottage gardens and elsewhere, which, as a rule, receive no pruning whatever, and not very high culture, and yet they produce sheets of bloom annually, not first-class flowers, it is true, but wonderfully good under the circumstances, and suftioiently so to make the high-class cultivator pause and ask himself what could not be accom- plished in the same way if he were to try, and whether or not he is really in the right track after all in following a practice which in fruit culture would bo termed the " mutilation process." Let us, in conclusion, just refer to a few of the most eligible of the climbing Roses. Among the most common and hardiest are the Ayrshire Roses. These are all double or semi- double, and the best of them are white or of a pinkish colour. There are hardly a dozen varieties altogether, and mosD of them are worth growing for the sake of variety. About equally hardy and useful for the same purposes is the Ever- green Rose, so called on account of the length of time it retains its leaves in winter. There are several good varieties, and they are vigorous and rapid growers, and need little or no attention except thinning when they are trained to pillars or walls. In rustic situations thoy need not be meddled with at all. To these may be added the Boursault vai-ieties, a few of the Bourbon kinds, of which Souvenir de la Malmaison is tho best example, and Gloire de Dijon and Marochal Niel among the Tea-scented class. The last two are worthy of all the attention that can be bestowed upon them. Gloire do Dijon comes in early and goes out late, the second growth often pro- ducing flowers in abundance late in the season, and in the soutli the Marc'chal Niel does well either on a wall or as a rambler in the open ground. As far north as the Tweed it occasionally grows and flowers freely on a roof or wall in a Aug. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 129 favourable exposure. Both are hardier than some people imagine, and as with most Eoses uupruned plants stand severe winters best. Both, too, are great ramblers, and where the situation suits them there is nothing to prevent any one from having single plants of either quite as large as the one we have given an. account of at the beginning of these remarks. — "Tield." Blue-flowered Pentstemon. (P. heterophyllus). — Mr. Niven, in his recent notice of the Pentstemona, has, I think, scarcely done justice to this very desirable species. Having had the plaasnre of ro-introdneing it to British gardens three or four years ago, I have had good opportunities of observing its character and behaviour in our climate, and I am inclined to regard it as one of the best of the blue-flowered species — for blue it certainly is so far as my experience goes, though in a large bed an occasional specimen may bo met with in which the colour verges upon reddish-purple. The fine azure- blue tint of the corolla closely resembles that of the so-called P. Jaffrayanus. P. heterophyllus is, however, dwarfer and more com- pact in habit, and the colour resists the action of sun and rain better than that of Jaffray's (or shonld it not be Jeffrey's ?) Pentstemon. It is hardier than many species, bat often succumbs to severe winters. — W. Thompson, Ipsvjich. "Wild Garden and Fernery. — I have read with both interest and pleasure " Oxon's " account of the formation of his wild garden in Vol. VIII., p. 123, and I am able to indorse from experience what pleasure can be derived from a wild garden and Fernery planned and planted, and to a great extent tended by oneself, with occasional help from an old man, who, although he may be careless about the usefulness of fallen branches for the cottage fire — as he lives in a peat district — yet takes great pride in the success attending his own and his employer's labours. Rhododendrons, Weigelas, Camellias, Magnolias, Arbutuses, Deutzias, Clethras, and a Tulip tree may be enumerated, amongst others, with which a good start has been made. The soil is partly loam and partly clay, but in spring the country (South Carnarvonshire) generally suffers from drought, and the clay, helping to retain moisture longer, is beneficial rather than otherwise to the Fernery and its surroundings. The climate in winter is sufficiently genial to allow the Lycopodinm denticulatum, which covers a bank, to flourish without protection, although last winter made more brown patches in it than the preceding one. If " Oxon " would kindly give me a few hints as to what plants, by being mixed amongst the shrubs, would by their blossoms or leaves enhance the beauty of my wild garden, and that would show to the best advan. tage late in summer or autumn, I should be greatly indebted. In the spring months little can be done, as I am from home. — M. L. W. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FLOWER (JARDEN. Foxgloves and Ferns. — There is no mixture superior to theso for effect. The loug spikes of brilliant colour resting on verdant Pern Ironds, with now and then a fine leaf towering up among the coloured spikes, are inimitable. The two also agree well together, if neither be planted so thickly as to pre- dominate over and smother the other. — D. T. F. Sweet Peas for furnishing cut Bloom.— Blooms of Sweet Peas are universal favourites, and one great advantage in growing Sweet Peas for this purpose is that the oftener the expanded blooms are gathered the longer the plants con- tinue to produce them. By sowing early in November we have had them in fall flower in May, and with attention to mulching, watering, and gathering every expanded flower as it is ready, we have had plenty of blossoms the whole season. — Jaubs Gboom, Senliam. Limnocharis Humholdti.— Although this is generally treated as a stove ariuatio, it appears to be hardy enough to thrive in a much cooler temperature. There is a good plant of it growing freely in an open tank in Mr. Pai-ker'a nursery at Tooting. It also grows and flowers freely in au open-air pond m Mr. Beaufoy's garden at South Lambeth. It should, however, be added that the water is kept somewhat warm by means of waste steam. — S. Two useful Annuals.— A gay effect has been produced in the herbaceous borders at Blenheim by alternate tufts of the richly-coloured Convolvulus minor and the Crimson Flax (Linum grandiflorum). These were sown in the borders early in spring, and thinned out to a few of the strongest plants. Hardy annuals such as these when thus treated produce most beautiful effects not excelled by Pelargoniums and other tender plants that require wintering under glass. — A. Achillea Eupatorium.— This is truly a grand border plant which, when well established in the form of a large clump, is strikingly effective. It grows to a height of 4 ft. ; its trusses of golden flowers, about 6 in. in diameter, resemble those of a huge yellow Ageratum. Any one interested in plants suitable for a wild garden, would find this well worthy of attention. — D. Fuchsia Eicoartoni.— There is a perfect hedge of this fine old hardy Fuchsia running across the large kitchen garden at Blenheim. The summ3i*s growth is annually cut away, and the roots are protected by a dressing of leaf- soil or spent tan. When I saw the plants recently, they were about 4 ft. in height and as much through, and the wood was covered with blossom. This would materially increase during the autumn and would continue until cut down by frost,- A, ON THE MIGRATION OF VEGETABLE LIFE. We have often spoken of acclimatization as practised directly and intentionally, with the object of enriching a country with the various species that it is desirable to see naturalized there. Bat side by side with this voluntary interference of man there are constantly at work, as means of propagation, all the natural agents of transport, such as air, water, glaciers, and animals. Man himself enters into the same category, because indirectly, and without giving a thought to it, he is taking part in the same results. I wish to pass in review on this occasion some few examples of this unconscious acclimatization. As M. Marion remarks in his book " The Wonders of Vegetation" : — "Air certainly plays the most important part in the dissemina- tion of plants : a vast number of light seeds seem to have been fur- nished with tufts or membranous wings, only for the purpose of rendering them more likely to be carried away by its movements. To this end the light fruit of many plants is crowned by a tuft of expanded fibrils, forming an actual parachute which rises at the slightest puff of wind. Thus, separated from the mother plant, the seed can make very loug journeys by the aid of its aerial boat. The mildest breeze springing up in a valley suffices to plant it on the heights of the mountains ; while if a tempest shonld arise, the fragile parachute commits itself to the storm, crosses the sea, and effects its descent on some unknown shore. " Avery curious instance of such transport- ation to great distances by atmospheric currents has been quoted by M. Auguste de Saint. Hilaire, in his "Flore Fraccaise. " Towards the middle of the seventeenth century a bird's skin was sent over from Canada to England, wrapped up in the leaves of some " Composite " plant, which were thrown aside when the packing case was opened. The seeds of this plant, which are surmounted by plnmuias, were scattered round, about by the wind, and step by step they spread, not only in England, but also in France, after crossinfr the Straits of Dover." In 1800, the Abbe Delarbre wrote that he had never found but one specimen in all Auvergne ; in 1805, Messrs Saint-Hilaire and De Salvert met with it all over the Limagne ; and, at the present moment, according to M. Schnetzler, of Lausanne, this Erigerou canadense, the plant in question, flourishes in Franco, Swit- zerland, and the whole of Europe. It is an "ill weed" that grows apace on slopes of railways, and on uncultivated sandy soils. In an analogous manner our prickly Cardoon, carried, one knows not how, into South America, has invaded the immense Pampas of La Plata. M. Marion, from whom I borrow the facts, adds, that the interchange of noxious herbs between the old and new worlds does not stop here. It our Couch Grass and Nettles infest the gardens of the United States, La Plata in revenge has sent us those Burdocks and Amaranths that are the plague of our vineyards in the south of Europe. While the seeds of Thistles, Salsafy, Cornflower, Eupatorium, and Valeriana become the sport of the winds, thanks to the tufts by which they are surrounded, the fruits of the Pine, Fir, Elm, and Maple are pro- vided with one or two wings that carry them far and wide. Those of the Lime are placed at the end of a peduncle, which is itself furnished along its whole length with a slender leaf, called its " bract," by means of which they whirl round and round in the air till they fall to the ground in the fields or in the streets. In the case of the shrubs and trees of which we have just been speaking, the seeds do not separate from the fruit, and this latter is directly provided with these means of dissemination. On the other hand, M. Boquillon tells us, that in the case of vegetables bearing fruits that open such as the Bignonia, the Tecoma, the Catalpa, the Willow, the Poplar, and the Cotton tree, the seeds separate themselves from the fruits, and it is they that are provided with appendages for flight Willows and Poplars are so common everywhere, that it is easy tor anyone to investigate this for himself. People walking on the wharfs at Paris in summer time get their coats covered with little pieces of white down, when the wind sets in the right direction. With a little care a small brown body may be discovered carefully enveloped in the down ; this is a seed grain from the Poplar trees situated near the Porto Marie, or from those in the neighbourhood of the Tuileries. ,. . , , Running waters supplement the wind m this dispersion of seeds. Sometimes seeds only, sometimes fruits, are thus transported.^ The fruits of Fennel are exactly like miniature boats ; these, earned by the sea reach the coast of Madeira in such enormous quantities, that one of the bays of the island has been named Funchal or Fennel Bay. Hazel Nuts a^^aiu, and Walnuts, have a shape suggestive of a barrel ; they float very readily, and travellers have seen huge quantities of them that have been carried over by currents to Canada and to the United States. For a long time the source of those Coco-nuts that are drifted about by the Indian Ocean and finally stranded on the coast of Malabar remained a mystery. These gigantic fruits, some of them more than half a yard in diameter, and weighing from twenty to twenty-five kilogrammes, are not the produce of any neighbouring country, and the Hindoos called them " Sea-cocos, 130 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 5, 1876. supposing that they were eapplied by some unknown marine plant. It has since been discovered that they are the produce of the Lodoicea, a magnificent Palm, growing on the Seychelles Islands, which lie on the eastern coast of Africa, more than 400 leagues from the nearest point of Indian territory. JI. Sohnetzler mentions that the currents of the Pacific Ocean carry out Coco.nuts and other fruits from the American Continent to enormous distances in a similar manner. These find a resting-place on the coral ridges which are raised up from the bottom of the sea by the ceaseless labour of polyps ; here they germinate and soon cover with brilliant verdure that which was but yesterday a rock almost invisible to navigators. Hooker recof. nised at the Gallapagos Islands more than 140 species of plants that belong to the isthmus of Panama. In this way the enormous pods of a climbing Mimosa, carried across the Atlantic by the warm blue waters of tho Gulf Stream, are driven on to the Norwegian coast, where, of course, the seeds they contain fail to germinate, owing to the insufficient temperature they encounter in the country of their exile. Floods, torrents, and rivers, too, bring down in their course seeds and fruits, sometimes whole plants. M. Schnetzler points out how mountain plants in Switzerland come down stage by stage from their native heights, till at last several beautiful species of Sassafras and Ranunculus have established themselves at the foot of the Alps. At the end of the last century the banks of the river Sevre, near its confluence with the Loire, were remarkable for the large quan- tities of Lindernia — a Sorophulariaoeous plant — that grew upon them. Only four or five years ago tho botanists of Nantes discovered to their surprise that this plant had been completely driven from its domicile by an invasion of the Ilysanth, a species of the same Natural Order, but of American origin. In 1869, M. Ledantec found the muddy banks of the Mayenne, above Angers, covered with an enormous quantity of Ilysanth, in the midst of which a few scraggy choked-up plants of Lindernia appeared as the last representatives of the native population, driven out by their exotic relatives, whose presence has since been noticed on the banks of the Loire itself. According to an observation by M. Boreau, published in the " Memoires de la Societe Academique de Maine-et-Loire," the rapid distribution of certain foreign plants through the medium of water is an established and incontestable fact. The Panicum Digitaria, an American Gr.ass, first observed near Bordeaux in 1824, has spread widely in the neighbouring departments, and has got as far south as Toulouse. Another Grass from southeru climes, the Stenotaphrum americanum, is spreading its powerful roots in the sands at the mouth of the Adour. The Elodea (Anacharis) canadensis, has invaded the lakes and rivers of England, Scotland, Belgium, Holland, and Germany. In Belgium and elsewhere drains have been rendered use. less, and canals have been completely obstructed by these plants ; and in many large sheets of water it suffers no vegetable life but its own to exist. Since 1871 this formidable stranger has gained several points in France ; it has been found on the outskirts of Brest ; M. Lamy came across it in a pond in the Hante-Vienne district ; and it swarms in the waters of tho Paris parka. Another plant of the same family, tho Stratiotes aloides, introduced in 1828 in tho neighbour, hood of Mans, has followed tho course of tho river Sarthe j it abounds in the lakes near Morannes and Chateauneuf, and infests St. Nicholas Pond, at Angers. Geologists have drawn attention to a modo of transport which is of much import.anoe in northern latitudes viz., that effected by floating ice. Arctic explorers have often met with icebergs loaded with an enormous mass of dihrh, such as is often found on tho glaciers of the Alps. Such an iceberg running aground on a distant shore deposits there the seeds which it carried, and these take root in their new homo. It is the action of floating ice, again, that explains the presence of tho rooks called erratic, which are scattered in snch numbers about tho soil in Northern Europe. At a time long anterior to the appearance of man on our planet, when a vast ocean, stretching from the Baltic to the Polar Sea^ separated the island formed by tho mountains of Norway from the rest of Europe, huge blocks of ice carried away granite rocks from these mountains to tho coasts of Spitzborgen, Great Britain, and Friesland : these are found in tho plains of Prussia, Poland, and Hnssia, as far as the sides of tho Carpathian and Ural Jfoim. tains. Botanists have discovered that many of theso Scandiuaviau rocks, thus left there by the sea, are still covered with Lichens, Moss and other plants belonging to tho Norwegian series. Geologists have given the name of glacial epoch to the time when the action of ice was so actively at work. Under the influence of certain moteoro. Jogical conditions, glaciers descended from the heights of tho moun. tains. Alpine plants growing in their neighbourhood, followed them in their course, and when tho ice had disappeared, such few of them as wore sumciently hardy to adapt themselves to their new ohm.ato became porpotuatnd among us. In this way, says M. Schnotz. ler, wo may regard as survivors of the glacial epoch those colonies of Sassafras, Primrose, Toad-flax, Soldanellaj, and Khododeudrona that are spread abroad over the Swiss table-land and the plains of Northern Germany. Animals are not less active contributors to vegetable propagation. Sometimes a yellow.hammer or a thrash lets fall the Cherry he carries in his beak ; sometimes a miseelthrush that has picked the fruit of the Mistletoe carries it off to a tree, where a sticky berry adheres to a branch, and so allows its embryo to develop. Again, the coloured berries of the Sorb, the Elder, Ivy, and Juniper tempt the appetite of thrushes and redwings, which carry off their booty and leave it, more or less deprived of its pulpy envelope, on the walls of old buildings. This is why we so commonly see ruins crowned with clumps of Elder, Ivy, and Juniper. Crows, jays, and magpies, again, bury fruit and seeds in the ground, and squirrels, dormice, rats, field-mice, and hedgehogs hide away as provender Nats and Acorns, and grains of Wheat. Very often, says M. Bocquillon, animals do not thus sow the seed directly; they swallow the fmifc as food, and the seeds contained in the fruit, being protected by a skin or a shell, undergo no alteration in the digestive canal ; when discharged from it, they fall to the ground and grow. In Java there is a sort of civet cat that is a great eater of the fruit of Coffee plants ; this little animal swallows them greedily, contents himself with the pulpy portion, and allows the two seeds which it contains to escape. According to Junghuhn, the Coffee berries thus discharged under con. ditions most favourable to germination, are eagerly sought after by the inhabitants of Java, and are carefully collected from all accessible places. It appears that in Ceylon there is a kind of thrush that feeds on the fruit of the Cinnamon tree, and distributes the seed in all directions. According to Sebastiani, 261 species of plants are found on the site of the Colosseum at Rome, whose presence there is due to the transport of seeds by birds. M. Marion relates that when the Dutch destroyed the Nutmeg trees on several islands of the Malay Archipelago, with a view of concentrating its cultivation on one of them alone, the pigeons that abound there completely upset their calculations by re-introducing the plant, of which they are exti'emely fond, wherever it had been extirpated. Man himself, as we have said, often propagates plants without intending it. The great army of cereals which accompanied onr fore- fathers from Central and Western Asia brought with it a host of dis. reputable "camp-followers, " which we find in our Corn-fields at the present day, as weeds. Among the Asiatic plants thus " smuggled, " as it were, into Europe, are some of tho prettiest of our common field-flowers such as Corn-flowers, wild Poppies, Dauphinelle, and Toad-flax. Other plants followed in the train of the Mongolian hordes that advanced as far as Central Europe in the Middle Ages : wo find varieties of vegetation belonging to the steppes of Mongolia in Hungary, Moravia, Bohemia, and Carniola. The Bohemians, origin. ally from Hindustan, brought us tho Datura Stramonium, a poisonous plant belonging to the Solanaceons Order. The Cossacks transported from the steppes of Southern Europe several species which were unknown in England and Franco previous to the war of 1814 and 1813. Through this source a Cruciferous plant, Bunias orientalis, has reached as far as the Bois de Boulogne. When the North American Indian finds the great Plantain on his path, he calls it " the white man's footprint, " and it was in fact the white man who took it to that continent. A leguminous plant of the species Vioia, which grows to this day in Greenland, furnishes ns, by its presence, with a proof of the colonization of the now ice-bound country by the Norwegians. I will quote one more example of seeds travelling with merchandize sent out from foreign countries. Near Montpellier is a little creek called Port Juvenal. There, in the fifteenth century, the galliots of Jacques Cccur discharged their cargoes of spices and precious textures from the East. At the present day, the cargoes of wool coming from the ports of Syria, Bessarabia, Algeria, and Buenos Ayres are washed and dried there. These wools are laden with seeds which have clung to the sheep's fleeces. The seeds have germinated, and produced a little colony of more than 400 different species of plants, which M. Godron has described in his " Flora Juveniilis." Again, in 1855, at Louviers, M. Bocquillon collected a quantity of leguminous fruits, whose prickles had attached them to fleeces sent over from Australia. He extracted the seeds from them, put them in tho ground, and has sno. cooded ill raising a considerable number of plants. You have seen, gentlemen, by the various facts that I have quoted, that Nature has not assigned to every plant an immutable dwelling place; they are not always absolutely confined to the country which gave them birth. Powerful agents often transport them, in the face of a thousand obstacles, to other climates at prodigious distances from their original homo. Why, then, may not man have good hope of successful results, when ho endeavours systoinatically to enoonrago the migra. tion of such vegetable species as are useful to him ? [The above paper by M. Drouyn de Lhuys, was read at the last annual meeting of the French Society of Acclimatization by the President.] Aug. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 131 THE INDOOR GARDEN. ONOIDIUM OURTUM. This is one of the handsomest Oncidiums belonging to the 0. crispum group, in -which 0. crispum flavum, O. Forbesi, 0. Marshallianum, 0. pectorale, and the plant now under notice, Oncidium curtum. are the most attractive kinds. One of the most distinct of all, however, is 0. curtum. It has a rather dense, pyramidal inflorescence, and the individual flowers of which it consists Bloom of 0. curtum (natural size). are scarcely more than half the size of those of O. crispum, but in colour they are very bright and distinct ; the sepals and petals are of a clear, soft yellow, barred and blotched with cinnamon-brown, the lip being of the brightest golden-yeUow colour spotted around the lower margin with brown, and having a dark purple, corrugated crest on the disc surrounded by a few more brown spots. In habit of growth the plant comes near 0. crispum, but the shape and colour of the flowers remind one of 0. sarcodes. The extremely short column and downy anther-case may distinguish this plant from its allies. Although by no means new it is at present very rare. Mr. W. Bull has flowered it once or twice, and oiir engravings were made from a specimen which flowered in his collection in June last. It was figured and described by Lindley in the " Botanical Register," t. 68, as long ago as 1847. When well grown it is a most attractive plant, and its scarcity alone prevents it from becoming popular in all good collections. B. Bush. Allamandas. — As the Allamandas staged at pnblio exhi. bitions invariably have their shoots tied closely to a wire trellis fixed in a pot, and in consequence present a somewhat formal appearance, it is worthy of note that at a recent exhibition at Wimbledon two bush specimens were staged. One of these, according to the " Gardeners' Magazine," was contributed by Messrs. Jackson, of Kingston, and the other by Mr. Moorman. Both measured some 3 ft. in diameter, and, being well flowered, presented a remarkably satisfactory appearance, much more so than those trained to balloon, or indeed any other form of wire trellis. When trained in the bush form the flowers appear to greater advantage, the plant has a more natural appearance, and this style of training does not entail much, if any, additional labour. The wood of the previous year is kept well down, and the young shoots also are trained horizontally to stakes fixed in the pot during the early part of the season, and after passing a certain stage they are trained at proper intervals in an upright direction. AUamanda Hendersoni, the form represented at Wim- bledon, appears to be the best of the really first class exhibition kinds for this style of training. Reidia glaucescens. — This elegant Euphorbiaceous plant, a native of Java, when well grown and healthy, is exceedingly orna- mental. It has a regularly bushy habit, consisting of slender branches growing at right angles with the main stem, and furnished with glaucous-green leaves or phyllodia, fringed with a profusion of neat, light pink blossoms, suspended on very slender, long, drooping stalks, giving to the plant a most graceful aspect. When struck from a cutting and grown on without being stopped it forms a most beautiful pyramid, the main stem growing naturally as straight as an arrow, and regularly furnished from top to bottom with slender branchlets and lovely flowers. When grown thus the first season, and cut down close to the surface of the pot the following spring, it breaks away with as many main stems as there are eyes on the stool, and grows into a denser, but still a most elegant bush. It is very easily pro- pagated by means of cuttings about 6 in. long, and it thrives well in a compost consisting of equal parts of fibry peat and loam with a little sand. It requires a stove temperature and a moist atmosphere, with shade from bright sunshine. Supposing a plant grown into a pyramid with a main stem the first season, the beat way to get a large and better bush with a corresponding number of laterals and flowers ia to cut down a year.old plant in March ; let it break into fresh growth, and then partially shake it out and re.pot in fresh soil, plunging it in bottom-heat to assist it in making a fresh start. When well rooted, shift on into an 8-in. or lO.in. pot, according to the size of the plant desired. Do not stop the main stems, but let them grow on without either pinching or training, and they will furnish graceful foliage and still more graceful pendent flowers. Wherever there ia a stove, there should be at least one or two plants of Keidia glaucescens. — " The Gardener." NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE INDOOR GARDEN. Colens Crown Jewel.— Looking through the plant-houses at Blenheim recently I waa much struck with the beauty of this Coleiis, and as there were a score at least of other kinds growing with it, amongst which it stood pre- eminent for richness of colom^ing and compact habit of growth, I have thought it worth a special note. The leaf-ground ia a deep, rich claret-maroon, mar- gined with a clearly-defined edge of orange-yellow.— A. Lobelia subunda.- This little gem, a flne-foUaged plant, I can recommend to all lovers of beautiful-leaved and . dwarf -habited plants. I sowed the seed of it in April, in saucers, which are now completely covered with lovely-veined velvety foliage quite rivalling that of some of the much-prized Anjectochili. lb lias been kept in the greenhouse, which seems to me its proper place. — J. M., Sawkehurch, AxminsteVi Devon, The Azoreau Forget-me-not.— This is grown at Blenheim as a summer pot plant in the houses, and it furnishes a deep rich shade of blue that is not too abundant at this time of the year. It is very effective when used in bouquets, indeed, for any purpose seed of it should be sown in a gentle heat in March. — A. 132 THE GABDEN. [Aug. 5, 1876. TREES AND SHRUBS. THE HARDT VAEIETIES OF THE GUM CISTUS. By GEORGE GORDON, A.L.S. Most of tbo Gum Cistnses, or Eook Eosos, are more or less tender, and require protection in -winter in the climate of London; tbe hardier sorts, bowercr, do very well in most seasons when planted on rockwork, and grow freely in any common garden soil that is dry, but do not bear transplanting except when young, as they have but few fibrous roots. They are all busby, low, evergreen, or sub-evergreen shrubs, which flower profusely from June to August ; but the flowers, which considerably resemble a single Rose in shape and size, only last for a single day, opening in bright weather in the morn- iug, and shedding their petals in the afternoon. The flowers are either purple or white, never yellow, and some of the purple-flowered kinds are liable to vary in the tints when ob- tained from seed, and many alter much in their habit of growth, colour and size of the flowers, and in the form of the leaves, when raised from seed ; these are afterwards perpetuated by cuttings under different names. The Purplc-floivercd Scd'wn. 1. The Hairy Gum Cistus (Cistua villosns). — Thia fine, hardy kind forms a dense, compact bush, 3 ft. higli, which flowers profusely from Jane to August, and ia a native of Italy, Spain, and Barbary. It is well known in collections under the name of C. sal- viajfolius (which is a white. flowered kind), and the C. rotundifoliua is only a variety of it, with the leaves more rounded in outline and of greenish colour, as also the C. pilosus. The leaves are roundish ovate, tomentoae, and wrinkled on both surfaces ; the foot-atalks are short. furrowed and joined at the base ; the flowers are large and mostly of a reddish-purplo, but they vary in colour from pale lilac to deep purple, and are borne on one-flowered stalks, from one to three together, with large, spreading petals, imbricated at the base, and with the divisions of the calyx hairy and the capsules large. 2. The Hoary-leaved Gum Cistus (Cistus iucanus). — This variety grows in the form of a hoary, grey bush, 3 ft. high, which flowers abundantly from June to August, and is a native of Spain and France j C. canescena and C. cymosus are also varieties ; it also goes by the name of C. albidus. It is one of the hardiest, and its greyish aspect rendera it very distinct. The leaves are oblong, linear, bluntish, hoary, waved on the edges, three-ncrved, wrinkled, tomentose, without foot-stalks, and somewhat joined at the base, with the upper ones narrowest; the flowers are reddiah.purple, on terminal, one, three, or more flowered foot-stalks ; the sepals are ovate-acute, and clothed with starry pubescence ; the petals are obovato, distinct, of a darkish purple, with a yellow sjiot at the base of each, and notched at the top. 3. The Purple -flowered Gum Cistus (Ciatus purpnreus). — This is a free-growing, much.branched bush, about 3 ft. high, the branches of which are rather erect and clothed with brownish pubescence ; the flowers are large, of a bright reddish-purple, with a yellow spot at the base, above which is a largo, dark, velvety blotch, surrounded with red, and slightly branched. It ia a native of the Levant, and flowera in Juno and July; it ia very hardy, and pretty on account of tho bright reddish colour of tho flower with a dark velvety spot on each of the petals. Tho leaves are oblong-lanceolate, more or less wrinkled, and either obtuse or acute at the apex, netted and nerved, with the edges wavy. Tho flower-stalks are short, hairy, connected, and sheathing the stem ; tho flowers are terminal, from one to six together on short otalka ; bracts without stalks, leaf, like, pubescent, broad, concave at the base, where thoy are connected and terminate in acute points ; flower-stalka one, two, or three together, short, and with the calyx h.airy ; petals five or six, obovate orwedge-shapod, imbricated, more or less crumpled, and of a beautiful, bright, reddish-purple, with a dark crimson spot near the base. 4. The Smallflowered Gum Cistus (Ciatus parviflorus).— This is a niitive of Crete, grows about 3 ft. high, and flowera pro- fusely in Juno and July. The leaves are rather small, narrowly ovato, acute-pointcd, somewhat tomentoae beneath, much wrinkled, drawn down to and somewhat joined at the base, and greenish in colour. Tho flowera are small, purplish, terminal on tho lateral spray, on long toot.stalka, with two or three flowers on each near the top, and which stand well above tho loaves; tho petals are distinct, and tho calyx and capsule remarkably small. C. complicatua is a variety of this spooios, with small purplish-red flowers, and a nativo of the Levant. 5. The Cretan Gum Cistus (Cistua cretious). — This is a low shrub, 2 ft. high, flowera in June and July, and is a native of Greece, Syria, and Crete. It ia rather tender in the neighbourhood of London, and requires protection in the winter. C. crispatus and C. tauricus are varieties of it, and C. undulatus and C. crispus are aynonymoua names for it. The leaves of the Cretan Gum Cistus vary considerably both in size and form ; some are linear. oblong, others oblong elliptic ; they are nerved, tomentosely hairy, wrinkled, waved on the edges, tapering or drawn down to the foot-stalk, which is of a whitish. green colour, thickly covered with hairs. The flower-stalka are one-flowered, and the petals purple, with a yellow mark near the base of each ; the sepals are acute and villose. The While-flowered SecHon. 6. The Sage-leaved Gum Cistus (Cistus salviajfolius). — This species is widely dispersed, for it ia found in the south of Franco, Spain, Italy, Greece, and Switzerland. It forms a branching, dense shrub, 2 ft. high, clothed with whitish or pale green leaves, which, like every other part of the plant, are covered with numerous short hairs ; the flowers are white, and medium in size, and ar» produced abundantly in July and August. It ia very hardy, and grows freely in the open border, when planted in a dry situatioB fully exposed to the sun ; the leaves are rather small, ovate, blunt at the point, wrinkled, tomentose on the nnder side, and with very short foot-atalks; the flowers are produced in one or three together, and stand well above the leaves. C. obtasifolius ia a dwarf variety. 7. The Corbiere Gum Cistus (Cistus corbarlensis). — During the months of June and July this plant is covered with a profusion of white flowers, with the margins and young buds tinged with rose colour, and each of the petala marked at the base with yellow. It is a native of Sicily, and grows about 2^ ft. high. The leavea aro somewhat cordate-ovate, pointed, netted-veined, wrinkled on both surfaces, on long foot-atalka, glutinous, and fringed on the margins ; the flower-stalka aro long, erect, and ono or three flowered. Thia is one of tho hardiest of the species, and is easily distingnished by its heart. shaped, wrinkled, lightgreen leaves, and the abundance of its flowers, which stand well above the foliage. C. Cupaniauus and C. aeutifoliua are varieties which differ from the ordinary form of tho species in their rather prostrate, twiggy-spreading, and more robust habit. C. aoutifolins is the C. salvissfolius humifasus of Da Can- dolle. 8. The Small-leaved Gum Cistus (Cistus parvifolius). — A dense, erect, many-branched, small shrub, 2 ft. high, native of tho south of Europe, and flowers profusely in Juno and July. Tho branches are rather crowded, erect, and densely woolly ; the leaves are about 1 V in. long and -l lines broad in tho widest part ; thoy aro ovate, tapering much to the point, somewhat rounded at tho base, waved, and slightly crenulated on the edges, wrinkled above, strongly netted with prominent veins, somewhat three-nerved beneath, hairy on both surfaces, on short foot-atalks, and rather hoaiy on tho younger parts. The flowers are small, white, axillary, and on long, slender foot. stalks, having two flowers on each, which stand well above the foliage, and before expansion nodding ; the sepals aro pointed and tomentose on the margins ; the capaules aro small and covered by the calyx. It is one of the hardiest. 9. The Montpellier Gum Cistus (Cistua monspelienais). — A fine, free. growing, and hardy variety, which flowers abundantly ih June and July in the open border. It is a nativo of tho south of France, Spain, and Portugal, and grows from 2 ft. to 3 ft. high. The leaves are linear-lanceolato, three-nerved, without foot-stalks, clammy and villose on both surfaces; tho flowera are medium-sized, white, with the petals broadly wedge-shapod, and produced in terminal close cymes, which aro pilose. C. platysepalus has broader petals, with a yellow mark at tho base of each. 10. The Hairy Gum Cistus (Cistus hirsntua).— This kind forms a pretty branching bush, readily distinguished by its very largo, pyramidal calyxes and small capsules. It bears an ordinary English winter in tho open border without protection, and produces a great profusion of its white flowers, which expand in succession for a considerable time. It is a nativo of France and Spain, and will bo found on tho mountains Qowering in June and July. The leavea are oblong, blunt, hairy, and without foot.stalks ; tho flowera are white, with a yellow mark at tho baso of the petals, and produced on short, one-flowered foot-atalks, or corymbosely many.flowered clusters. 11. The Loose-flowered Gum Oietus (Cistua laxus).— An erect, sub-evorgreon shrub, about 3 ft. high, producing its white flowers freely from Juno to August, It is a native of Spain and Portugal, and cue of tho hardiest, for it will grow freely in the open Aug. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 133 border without any protection, provided tbat it be planted in a situa- tion that is dry and fally exposed to the sun. The leaves are ovate- lanceolate, on short foot-stalks, with wavy margins, sometimes slightly toothed and smooth, with the upper ones hairy ; the flowers are in loose, flat panicles or cymes, with the stalks and calyxes hairy. 12. The Poplar-leaved Gum Cistus (Cistus popnlifolius). — This is a robust-growing, sub.evergreen shrub, from 4 ft. to 6 ft. high, with large, showy, white flowers, having distinct petals, and produced in succession in great abundance, iu somewhat flattened panicles or cymes, with oblong, deciduous bracts. It is a native of the south of France, Spain, and Portugal, and is one of the hardiest of all the species, requiring but slight protection even in severe winters. Leaves dark green, wrinkled, leathery, shining, cordate, pointed, and stalked, with wavy margins, and smooth on both sur- faces; the bracts are clammy, the sepals pointed, and the flower, etalks and calyxes smooth, shining, and clammy. G. longifolius, C. cordifolius, and C. latifolius (populifolius major), are forms of this kind, and it is also known under the name of 0. populifolius minor. 13. The Laurel-leaved Gum Cistus (Cistus lanrifol ins). — A handsome, strong-growing, sub-evergreen bush, from 5 ft. to 6 ft. high, with large bright Laurel.like leaves and a profusion o£ flowers in July and August, which, with the light red bracts, are very orua- mental before they expand. It is a native of the south of Prance and Spain, and requires no protection in winter in the neighbourhood of Ijondon. The leaves are large, broadly ovate or ovate-lanceolate, three-nerved, leathery in texture, slightly undulated on the margins, deep green and smooth on the npper surface, with the under one tomentose ; on long foot-stalks, widened and joined at tho base ; the ilowers are large, white, with a yellow mark at the base of each petal, and are produced several together iu terminal, long-stalked cymes, and sometimes in additional distant pairs lower down the flower, stalk ; the stalks are tomentose, and the calyxes hairy, acute-pointed, and frequently tinted with purple. 14. The Resinous Gum Cistus (Cistus ladaniferns). — This is a splendid sub.evergreen shrub, from 5 ft. to 6 ft. high, and the handsomest of all the Cistus family. It is a native of the island of Cyprus, Spain, and Portugal, and is found on hills. It flowers pro. f usely in July and August, but requires some protection in severe winters when young. The leaves are oblong-lanoeolate, leathery in texture, three-nerved, more or less undulated on the edges, with the upper surface deep green, smooth, and shining, the under one clothed with hoary tomentum, and the foot-scalks rather long, widened, and joined at the base j the flowers are large, sometimes 3 in. across, and produced three or four together at tho ends of long, terminal, brac- teated flower-stalks ; the petals are white, yellow at the base, and with a large, rich, brownish-crimson, fringed spot on each above tho yellow base. C. cyprius, C. salicifolius, C. stenophyllng, and C. plani- folius aro mere forms of this species, which vary mnch in the foliage and marking of the flowers, the leaves on some plants being very much undulated, while in others they are flat, and the crimson spot is much larger and more intense in some than in others. 15. The Portuguese Gum Cistus (Cistus lnsitanious). — This plant forms a very neat, dwarf, many.branched bush, 2 ft. high, with rather small, liuear-lanceolate, acute-pointed, deep green leaves, which are smooth on both surfaces in the mature state, and with the flower-stalks and calyxes thickly clothed with long, silky, white hairs. It is easily distinguished by the small, crimson spots on the petals. The leaves are three-nerved, netted on the under side, and without foot-stalks ; the flowers are moderately large, on long, termi. nal foot-stalks ; and mostly in pairs at the ends, and enclosed by broad, leat-like bracts ; the petals are white, yellow at the base, and with a small, feather-edged, reddish-crimson spot above the yellow base ; the calyx is composed of four or five broad, leaf-like divisions, and, like the flower-stalk, is thickly covered with long, silky hairs. Flowers abundantly in June and July, and is a native of Portugal. 16. Clusius' Gum Cistus (Cistus Clusii). — This is a somewhat erect, dense, greenish shrub, about 2 ft. high, with numerous secondary, short branchlets. It is a native of Spain and Barbary, and flowers freely in June and July. The leaves are small, linear, very narrow, somewhat three-nerved, revolute on the margins, and canescent on the under surface. The flowers are in rather close heads, on long, terminal flower-stalks, small, white, yellow at the base inside, and with broad, ovate, pointed, pilose bracts, somewhat longer than the small flower-stalks, and soon falling off. The calyx is three or five-sepaled and pilose. This variety stands the winter well in the open border, if planted in a dry situation ; it is frequently named C. Ledum in the catalogues. The Helianthemnm formosum, which is frequently misnamed Cistus formoaus in nursery catalogues, deserves a place in all coUec. tions ; it formi a neat, handsome, erect, slender shrub, 3 ft. or 4 ft. high, with tomentosely-villose branches, aud small, obovAte-lanceoIate, villose leaves, the younger ones being hoary ; the flowers are tolerably large, oE a deep yellow, marked with a dark crimson spot at the base of each petal, and are produced from May to July. It is a native of Portugal, and requires to be protected in winter by a mat, or planted against a south wall, where it makes a beautiful display tor two or three months. AN EARLY SPRING-rLOWBRIiSra SHRUB. (NTJTT.4.LLIA. CERASIFORMIS). Tuis is one of the earliest of all our spring-flowering shrubs, aud ought to have a place in every shrubbery border. It is a native of North America and California, where, according^ to Torrey and Gray's " Flora of N. America," it is found forming undergrowth iu thin woods. In our gardens it forms a low- shrub from 6 ft. to 8 ft. in height, and produces clusters of deli- cate, greenish-white flowers early in March, and sometimes even in the month of February. Our engraving represents a young Nuttallia csrasiformis, flowering branch of the natural size. The flowers are diceoious, and the plant itself is interesting botanically, as forming the link between the Amygdalus and Spiraea sections of Rosacea:. It very rarely fruits in this country, but it naturally bears a two to three seeded leathery fruit, consisting of five carpels. A large bush of it formerly existed in the " wilderness " in the Ohiswick Gardens, and we have occasionally seen it elsewhere, but it is far from being so common as it deserves to be. !B. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON TREES AND SHRUBS. The Cork Oak in a New Home.-The Cork Oak appears to succeed as well in California as in its native country. Trees of it planted in 1861 and since pruned up, are now 25 ft. to the lower branches. The bark on these trees is from IS in. to 2 in. thick, and the peeling process may soon commence. Price of Oak In Scotlaud.-At a public sale of peeled Oak, belonging to the Baroness Willoaghby D'Eresby. which took place nearCrietr lately, a largo sum was realised fo?the various lots. Among the large standards sold, accord- inn- to the " Timber Trades Journal," was the trnnt ot an Oak tree which srew in the deer park adjoining Diummond Castle, and which was purchased by Mr. Phillips, timber merchant, Leith, for £30 5i. This sum, together with £4 6s. obtained for the limbs (sold for firewood), and the price reahsed tor the bark, brings up the value o£ the tree to about £50. Another Oak tree was sold for £18 10s. A Utah Shrub (Peraphyllum ramosissimum).— Mr. Siler, writing npon the vegetation of Southern Utah, says this low-growing shrub, with masses of white and sometimes pink flowers and waxy fruit produced in July, is probably the handsomest flowering shrub in Utah. The fruits, like the flowers, differ very much in appearance. Those plants that produce white flowers yield white waxy fruit : while those producing pink flowers have fruit with bright flesh-coloured skin aud a beautiful red cheek. This shrub is perfectly hardy, growing uauallv in clay soil and in the driest localities. It is deatinea to be- come a favourite in noi:thern localities.—" Gardeners' Monthly." 134 THE GARDEN. [Atjg. 5, 1876. THE MUTISIAS. {Wmi A C3L0UEED FIGUKE 0¥ MUTISIA ILICIPOLIa). By W. B. HEMSLEY. A Family or Natural Order of plants, comprising nearly 1000 genera and 10,000 species, should furnish a considerable num- ber, one would suppose, of ornamental species. That this is the case with the Compositas, the family to Trhich the genus here under review belongs, becomes apparent, if only some of those found in almost every gai-den be called to mind ; such, for instance, as Dahlias, Asters, Chrysanthemums, Marigolds, and Zinnias. To these might be added scores of other familiar " Composites," the Everlasting Flowers, Cinerarias, Sunflowers, the beautiful Blue Cornflower, and a host of others which can- not be catalogued here. But the beautiful tribe to which Mutisia belongs is very inadequately represented in our gardens. Perhaps it is because the members of this tribe are rather difiioult to cultivate, that is to say, the conditions under which they will thrive are not thoroughly understood ; other- wise, it is not easy to account for the rapid disappearance of several highly-ornamental species from cultivation. The tribe consists of about fifty genera, chiefly found in the sub-tropical and temperate regions of South America, fewer occurring in the tropical regions. A few genera extend to tropical and sub- tropical Africa, the mountains of Northern India, and even to China and Japan. It may be interesting to notice a few of the principal plants of this tribe which are, or have been, in cul- tivation, before speaking of the Mutisias themselves. Thus Barnadesia rosea (" Botanical Magazine," 4232) is a dwarf, iil- tricately-branched, spiny shrub, with small, obovate leaves and nearly sessile, rose-coloured flower-heads, from South America ; StifEtia ohrysantha ("Botanical Magazine," 4438), from the same country, is a larger-growing shrub, with very large, showy heads of flowers of an orange-red colour ; Ainsliasa Walkeri ("Botanical Magazine," 6225) is a recent acqui- sition from Hong Kong, of herbaceous habit, with narrow, crowded leaves at the base of the stem, which terminates in a large panicle of small flower-heads, the florets of which are white, except about three of the central ones, which are purple ; Chastanthera serrata (Sweet, Brit. Fl. Card., series 2214), from extra-tropical South America, is a dwarf, tufted herb, about 6 in. high, with slender, leafy scapes, terminating in small, yellow flower-heads ; Chabrasa runcinata (Bot. Mag. 4116), also from extra-tropical South America, is a herbaceous plant, with large, elegantly-cut radical leaves, and small bluish-white or pink flower-heade on a branched stem ; Proustia pyrifolia (Bot. Mag. 5489) is an exceedingly elegant shrub, climbing to the tops of the highest trees in Chili, and having its small, white flower-heads borne in large pendent panicles, and suc- ceeded by the rosy-red, plumose, persistent pappus ; finally Inxis auriculata (Bot. Mag. 2765) may be mentioned as a pretty, slender, herbaceous plant, with auricled leaves, and small, white flower-heads. But returning to the genus Mutisia, it is here we find some of the most beautiful plants in this vast family. It is not a large genus, numbering only some thirty species, all natives of South America, and chiefly inhabiting the sub- tropical and temperate regions, from the mountains of New Granada to Chili. The species present a most remarkable variety in the forms of tlieir leaves. Koughly, they may be divided into two sets, those with pinnate leaves, closely resem- bling those of some Loguminosca} of the Vetch tribe, indeed there is a species called M. viciasfolia, which exhibits this resemblance tu a striking degree ; and those with simple leaves, of which the one figured is a good representative. All the pinnate-lenved set, except M. vioiajfolia, which is an erect ^^"^ V'''° '"'^^ climbers. The simple-leaved set vary from those having short, rigid, sharp-pointed, spine-like leaves, as in M. accrosa, through every gradation up to the prickly- toothed, tendriled leaves of M. ilicifolia. About Imlf-a-dozcn clUlercnt forms have been introduced and cultivated at various times; but it Ks doubtful whether so many arc at present in cultiyatiou. 1 have now a few words of explanation to offer. What are popularly termed flowers aro here termed flower- heads ; and without plunging very deeply into botany, I may briefly state the reason why. In all the plants of this family the flowers (florets) are clustered or crowded together at the ends of the flowering-branches, instead of being scattered along them, or each one borne on a separate stalk. Each apparent flower, then, is a cluster of flowers ; and the diminu- tive " floret " is usually applied to the flowers composing these heads. The editor of The Garden is continually requesting me not to be botanical, but I cannot bring myself to call flower-heads flowers in describing a plant. Moreover, those per- sons who do not already know will not think it is time thrown away to learn a distinction which applies to 10,000 species of plants, and knowing this, the name of the family Compositaa becomes intelligible. A Selection of Species. 1. Species wiih Simple Leaves. X. Holly-leaved Mutisia (M. ilicifolia, not illicifolia, as mis. printed on the plate — Paxtou'a " Magazine of Botany," xv., 101 ; Bot. Mag., t. 6009). — The subject ot the plate is a very common and very variable climbing shrub in Chili. The figures quoted represent slightly different varieties, that in the " Botanical Magazine" having nearly white florets tipped only with pink ; and the figure in Paxton's " Magazine of Botany " represents a variety with darker green foliage, and smaller flower-heads, and the florets are striped longi. tudinally with a deeper hue. But the nearest to the plant figured here is the plate 288 of the second series of Sweet's " Flower Garden," where, however, it bears the name of M. latifolia. This appears to be the record of its first introduction here. It was originally introduced in 1833 from seeds collected by Mr. Cuming, in the neighbourhood of Valparaiso, where it is common on the hills, grow- ing among bashes. Sweet states that it was in several collections at that time, but the Rev. Townshend Selwyn, of Kilmington Rectory, Wilts, was the only person who had succeeded in flowering it. He further says the plant has hitherto been kept in a greenhouse, but, from what we have ourselves remarked, we have no doubt of its succeeding well in the open border, planted by a trellis, or near to any tree that is trained to a wall, where it mo ,' havo an opportunity of extending itself. In Paxton's Mag. we havo still more reliable testimony of its hardiness. This was published in 1818, and the figure, we are told, wag prepared from specimens'grown by Mr. Boy, junior, Aberdeen, who, some years previously, received a plant from Messrs. Low & Son, which was planted against a south wall in his garden, and had flourished there ever since without any other protection than that afforded by the wall. Although it flowered freely it never ripened seeds, but Mr. Roy succeeded in propagating it from cuttings, which struck root freely, either in sand or soil, if placed under a bell-glass in heat. It is unnecessary to dwell npoa the ornamental character of this shrub, which appears to have been re-introduced two or three times. Like Lapageria, and many other shrubby plants from the same region, it seems to require careful oul. tivation, and it certainly deserves a little extra attention in the pre- paration of the soil intended to receive it. It is a slender, climbing evergreen shrub, very variable in its leaves and young branohes, which are either glabrous or more or less clothed, especially on the under surface of the leaves, with a close, woolly or cobwebby tomentnm, and more or less prickly-toothed or quite entire ou the margin. The flowers, as already observed, are also variable in colour, from pure white to pink and deep purplish. red. The leaves are thick and hard, and the blade is continued down the stem in the form of a prickly wing, or it is simply stem. clashing. Very elosely allied species, or what is more probable, forms of M. ilicifolia, have been pnblished under the names of M. retusa, Gayana, Lechleri, and truncata. 2. Wing-stemmed Slutisia (M. deourrens, Bot. Mag., t. 5273). — A dwarf, thinly-branched climber, with narrow, undivided leaves, remarkable for the blade running down the stem in the form of a wing. The flower. heads aro largo and brilliant, from 4 in. to 5 in. in diameter, and of a deep orange, or almost vermilion colour, Tho midrib is continued beyond the blade of the leaf into a two- branched tendril. This beaatiful species was first introduced and cultivated by Messrs. Veitoh, about fifteen years ago, through their collector, Mr. I'earce, who met with it in the Andes ot Chili. Accord, ing to tho Bot. Mag. this stood tho severe winters of 18G0 and 1861 unharmed, in tho open air at Exeter, without shelter. What tho subsequent fate of this handsome plant has been I know not, but I fear it has almost disappeared from our gardens. A few years ago 1 received a specimen to iiamo from some part of Devonshire, but I have not since seen living specimens. M. subspinosa is a closely allied species, in which the long narrow leaves are scalloped and priokly.toothed. ;\ippler.ient to The Qarde/l. Office: 37, Southampton Street, Covent Garden, London. V/.C, THE HOLLY-LEAVED MUTISIA. ( M. ILLICIFOLIA ] Aug. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 135 2. Species with Compound Leaves. 3. Alton's Mutisia (M. speoiosa, Bofc. Mag., t. 2705 ; Lod. digea' Bot. Cabinet, t. 1809). — Thia ia one of the section with pinnate, Vetch.like leavea ; but, although the flower-heada are not altogether devoid of beauty, they are leaa showy than any other species, and therefore the specific name is misleading in a genus so rich in hand- some and showy forma. It, however, appears to have been the first that found its way into our gardens. It is a native of Brazil, and was communicated to the Royal Gardena at Kew by Parmentier, of Paris. It first flowered there in 1826, and is described as a plant of humble growth under cultivation, but probably reaching to a con- siderable height in its native country ; judging from the figure it ia decidnoua, and the small red flowers of short duration. 4. Large-flowered Mutisia (M. grandiflora, Humboldt's "Plantes Equinoxiales," t. 50). — This must be a truly gorgeous plant, for the brilliant red flower-heads are no leas than 6 in. long by 5 in. across the top. It has never yet been introduced, and ia probably a very rare plant in its native country, for Humboldt aaya he found it only in one place, on the mountains of Quindiu. It climbs lofty trees, and, like CobEea scandens, which it much resembles in its foliage, it would doubtless succeed well in a conservatory, if not in the open air. 5. Lady's Bower Mutisia (M. Clematis, Kerner Hort., 628). — A tall climber, from 10 feet to 20 feet high, with pinnate leaves, terminating in branched tendrils, and large heads of crimson flowers. In the absence of flowera this remarkable species has more the aspect of some leguminous plant than that of a composite plant, the leaves being divided into four to six pairs of oval or oblong, oppo- site or alternate leaflets, and the midrib or rachis runs out into a long, usually-branched tendril, by means of which the plant climba. In their young state the under side of the leaves is clothed with a dense, short, fawn-coloured wool. Different collectors describe the flowers as crimson, scarlet, and bright red, but all agree in bestowing great admiration upon the plant. It ia a native of the mountains of New Granada, Peru, and Ecuador, where it appears to be a common plant, between 6000 ft. and 11,000 ft. above the sea-level. It ia a greenhouse plant, probably no longer in cultivation. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINBS. Even the freest-blooming hard. wooded plants usually grown by amateurs, such as Cytisus, Acacias, Clianthus, and Bpaorises, are much benefited by some exposure to the open air after their growth is completed. It frequently happens that improper directions are given for the summer treatment of these planta — such as, for example, exposing them to the open air early in the summer, the effect of which is to restrict growth, and, in many oases, to cause the plants to set their flowers at once, and consequently come into bloom before the time they are wanted : this should never occur, for the great charm in a garden is to have aome plants coming into flower all through the seaaon, and to keep back, as much as possible, those grown under glass for the winter. Neither ia there a neceaaity for thua exposing any plant in the open air for the length of time often auppoaed to be needed. With moat hard-wooded subjects usually grown in pota a month out-of-doors ia sufficient, and it ia much better to defer thia until there ia juat enough time for the com- pletion of the ripening process before it is necessary to take them in through danger of frost. Eor this there is now ample time if the plants be at once put out ; they should for the firat few days be placed on the north side of a wall, or at a short distance from a tree that will shade them from the mid-day sun till they get a little used to the change. After the plants have been thua gradually inured to the sun, they may be placed where they will be fully under its influence, yet still so far sheltered as not to receive the fall force of the wind. The outsides of the pots, especially the aide next the sun, should be protected, or the roots which lie thickly against the inner surface will suffer ; for this purpose any flexible material, such aa a piece of canvas or bast mat tied round will answer the purpose. The drying influences to which plants are subjected when in the open air are much greater than in a pit or greenhouse, requiring closer attention aa to watering, eapecially if the pots be very full of roots ; they should be looked over twice a day when the weather is hot. Large-flowered varieties of Pelargoniums that were kept tor late flowering should now be cut down, or they will not have sufficient time to make growth before winter. Do not let the soil receive much water afterwards until they have started into growth ; the earliest cut-down plants should be shaken out and re-potted as soon as they have made shoots about 2 in. long ; a considerable part of the old roots ought to be out away, consisting of all the finer portions that have been in contact with the sides of the pots, reserving only the stronger roots. Thia will admit of the removal of the old exhausted soil, replacing it with new ; return them to the same pots or to those of a smaller s-ize. Even in the case of those plants that have not yet attained their full size, it ia much better to give them a second shift than to over, do them in thia reapect. An 8-in. pot will suffice for the largest- sized Pelargonium that it is requisite to grow ; they cannot bear too much root-room, as it always has the effect of inducing rank leaf. growth. Add one-sixth rotten manure to the loam, and as much sand as will keep it in a porous state without making it too light ; in potting, ram the soil quite hard. There aro not many plants that require a closer soil than Pelargoniums. Herbaceous Calceolaria seed should be sown without delay, as upon a vigorous development of the plants before autumn depends, to a great extent, their health through the winter and a satisfactory flowering in the spring. An ordinary seed-pan is the most suitable in which to sow them : put an inch of fine crocks in the bottom, and on thia some dry, flaky manure to keep the soil out of the crocks j use finely-sifted soil, with one-fifth leaf-mould, also sifted; add to it one. sixth sand, fill to within an inch of the rim, pressing the surface smooth, and watering it to close up the holes before aowing. Thia should always be done as a preparation for very small aeeda, or they are liable aubsequently to get washed down too deeply to germinate ; after this, allow the pan to stand for an hour or two before putting in the seed, which should be scattered evenly over the surface, and then covered with about an eighth of an inch of very fine soil (not more than will just hide the seed) ; press the surface smooth with the bottom of an empty flower-pot, place the pan in a pit, greenhouse, or garden frame, in a position where the sun will not shine upon it so as to dry the soil. If a bell-glass, hand-light, or cloche be at hand to place over the pan till the seeds are up, letting it stand on a moist surface of sand or aahes, the soil will be kept in a fit atate for the seed. Mignonette should now be sown to flower in the winter. For this drain aome 6-in. pots ; use ordinary loam, to which add one- fifth of leaf -mould and rotten manure, aa alao some sand ; with this fill up the pots to within an inch of the rim, smooth the surface, putting a dozen seeds in each, cover lightly, and keep slightly moist. The seeds will germinate in a week or two, when they must have plenty of light and air. An ordinary garden frame, with the lights off, except in very wet weather, ia the most suitable place for them during the next ais or eight weeka. There ia nothing more accept, able either for cutting, greenhouse, or room decoration through the winter or early spring than Mignonette, and it is very suitable for amateurs to cultivate, the principal point to be observed is to give plenty of air and light in the early stages, so as to keep the planta dwarf and stout; if ever they get weak and drawn up, they are worthless. Roses in pots that are plunged, or otherwise, muat be well attended to with water, and the foliage kept clear from aphidea or red spider. It frequently happens that plants of these and other sub. jects of a hardy nature, that are either forced or brought into flower under glass in the winter, when set out-of-doors during the summer months, are subject to comparative neglect through want of suffi- cient water, or allowing the leaves to get injured by the attacks of insects, in which case it is useleaa to expect either an increaae of strength or healthy flowering when the time of their blooming arrives. Any plant with its roots confined within the limits of a pot ia naturally weaker than when planted out, and ia consequently more liable to auffer through the attacks of insects, which, if means be not taken for their immediate destruction, very soon prevent the poaaibility of a succeaaful growth. To this cause is attributable the disappointment that amateurs often experience with pot Roses, the satisfactory flowering of which depends quite aa much upon due attention in the aummer as on anything that can be done for them when they are making their growth inside. The planta should be syringed overhead regularly, which will keep the leaves fresh and healthy. Dust with sulphur on the appearance of mildew ; if the plants be kept free from thia parasite through the summer, they are less liable to be affected with it at the time of flowering. Peaches that were started aa adviaed, by closing the house so aa to use sun-heat, or perchance with the assistance of a little fire-heat during cold weather in the spring, will, it all has gone well, have ripened their fruit and the crop have been cleared. It too often happens that after this the trees are neglected for a time in two ways, viz., insufficient water to the roots, and allowing the foliage to get injured by thrips and red spider, the result of which is that the leaves die and fall off before they have completed their functions, to the consequent weakening of the trees. As soon as the crop is gathered, thoroughly wash the trees with the syringe or garden 136 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 5, 1876. engine. The latter is the better implement, and when used with the jadgment which a little practice givog, aphides, red spider, and thrips can be washed off without injaring the leaves, rendering the attacks oE these pests harmless ; whereas if thoy be permitted to have nn. molested possession of the trees, it is useless to look for fruit. Another matter of equal importance is to see that the soil has enfii. cient moisture. If there be any deficiency in this respect, it is not possible for the frnit-bnda to get fully matured, thus destroying the probability of a crop during the ensuing year. The production of weak, partially developed flowers in the spring is generally to bo attributed to neglect daring the previous season. The roots need not now be kept so wet as when the crop was swelling and the shoots in full growth, but they must not be allowed to get too dry. Dahlias should always be well seoui-ed with stakes to prevent them being blown about and broken by tho wind ; in giving them this support do not tie them up in the shape of a broom by drawing all the shoots tight to a single stake, for this mode gives them an unnatural, ugly appearance, and when strong winds prevail tho whole are frequently blown down together. It is a much more effectual and better-looking plan to use four or five moderate-sized sticks for each plant, to which tie the branches out; this has the double advantage of improving their appearance, and letting light and air through the plants, which keeps them dwarf and strong. Even for ordinary decorative purposes, it is worth while to thin out tho branches of Dahlias, for the blooms are developed much finer where this is practised, and the plants necessarily do not get exhausted so soon in the autumn. Water must bo given liberally when the ground is at all dry, or they will receive a very severe check; if grown in beds by themselves tho whole surface should bo mulched over with .3 in. of rotten manure; it in borders amongst other plants, a space ought to be mulched round each Dahlia, as far as the roots extend. Kitclien Garden. — A little winter Onion seed should be sown : it is better to put some in now, and again in a fortnight's time, than to trust to one sowing; as, in severe winters, the plants from one will frequently succeed when the others fail. Very much depends on the kind of weather prevailing during the autumn ; for tho young plants of the first sowing will sometimes get a little too large, and in other seasons the second will bo too late. Prepare the ground well by deep digging and moderate manuring : sow in rows, 1 ft. apart. In very bleak, cold situations, the White Lisbon, being very hardy, is suitable for sowing ; in milder localities, Giant Rocca and Globe Tripoli are good kinds, both very large. Cut out the flower-stems of Globe Artichokes as soon as the heads are gathered : neglect in this matter at this season is often the cause of the plants dying oft through the winter. The young growth makes little progress until the old stumps are removed, not having time to get strong enough before autnmn. Greenhouse Plants. Tho drying weather wo are now experiencing is very trying for greenhouse plants, especially those that are still standing on stages under glass, exposed, as they necessarily are in such a position, to rapid currents of heated air constantly passing amongst them. In such cases the utmost care will be requisite to see that they do not become dry at the root, to obviate which they should be watered eeveral times over to insure the ball of the plant being thoroughly Boakcd through. The rapid drying they undergo at this season scarcely allows time for the water to penetrate the soil before it is again reabsorbed in tho atmosphere, and it therefore frequently occurs that the middle and lower portion of the ball does not get moistened at all. This is particularly the case with Heaths and Azaleas after they have become matted with roots, and where any doubt exists as to their present condition, they should at once be placed in a tub or vessel of some kind that will hold sufficient water to cover tho pots, and be allowed to remain in that position till they are well soaked through. If once thoroughly dry this operation takes a long timo, and they may with safety bo left from twelve to twenty.four hours without the roots receiving any injury. The general appearance of the plants will denote their condition, as they soon have a starved appearance, and before that takes place it may bo easily ascertained by lifting them and testing their weight. If light for their size compared with others in a healthy, moist state, the deficiency in weight arises from the ball being dry and full of air instead of containing the proper amount of moisture for tho roots. This light, elastic state of the ball has a beneficial effect if it occur not too often, as it keeps tho soil in a sweet, healthy state from the thorough aerating it receives. The great point in plant cultivation is to know exactly when to water, and then to give it in sufficient quantity to soak tho ball through in order to wet every portion of it, after which the plants should be left till the necessity arises to repeat it. Even the best and most suitable soil may soon be spoilt through careless watering, which at once renders it close and sour, which good treatment in other respects can afterwards rectify. See to maintaining the atmosphere in plant-houses as moist as possible by repeatedly damping the floors, stages, and every other available surface to which water can be applied without being objectionable or causing inconvenience to visitors. Where there is room and conve- nience to treat the growing stock of plants separately from those in bloom, a thorough syringing should be administered to the former every evening just after closing, and the same operation may with advantage be repeated in the morning during the continoance of Bach weather as now prevails. Kalosanthes. — The beauty of these will soon be over for the present season, and as thoy cease flowering the shoots should be cut back to within 2 in. or 3 in. of tho stem from which they originated, after which keep tho plants in a light, airy position and somewhat dry at tho roots till they break again. Cuttings made now soon strike if placed in pits or frames, or on the back shelves of houses where they can receive a little shade during the heat of the day. The ends of the young shoots that have not bloomed are best for tho purpose, the strongest of which shonld be taken off about 6 in. long, and the lower leaves removed by running them round with the finger and thumb, so as to take away the part surrounding the stem aud leave the joints bare. This should be done as far np the cuttings as it may be necessary to insert them in the soil, which will be from 1 in. to 2 in. Plants of these cut down now will bo too late in break- ing to bloom again next season, and it is therefore necessary to forward others that were cut back earlier, or those that did not flower satisfactorily. If tho young shoots of such be now allowed to remain intact without any shortening or stopping by taking out the points, they will make splendid specimens for next season, as almost every shoot will bloom if the plants remain in a light situation during the winter. For the present they should be placed out-of-doors, where they can have the full benefit of the sun, that the growth they make may be firm and short-jointed. The exposure must not tako place too suddenly if the plants are now under glass, otherwise tho leaves will -become scorched and disfigured, from which they will never recover. Herbaceous Calceolarias. — The great value of these for spring decoration renders their culture very desirable, and, in order to get fine, strong-flowering plants, seed should be sown at once. To induce these to germinate freely, they mast be well cared for, and never allowed to become dry or be exposed to the sun. The best place for them is under a hand-light, in a shady, moist corner, where they can be kept close till they make their appearance. Be- fore sowing, the pan should be drained, and then filled with fine, loamy soil, made perfectly firm and smooth on the surface by being pressed down to fill np the interstices, and so prevent tho seed from being buried too deeply. This done, a gentle watering from a fine-rosed pot should be given, and after the soil has had time to settle, the seed should be sown regularly over tho surface, and the top of the pan either covered with a piece of glass or coarse, damp Moss, tho object being to intercept evaporation, and so prevent the necessity of watering till after tho seeds have germinated. In order to render the atmosphere under the hand-light as moist as possible, the soil or ashes on which it is placed should be well watered before enclosing the pan. If this be covered with Moss, to keep the soil damp it must only remain on a few days, or be closely watched, that it may bo removed directly tho seeds begin to germinate. Slugs are most destructive to young seedling Calcco. larias if they can get at them, and will clear off a whole pan in a single night. To guard against this, it is a good plan to set tho pan containing the seed on an inverted pot, placed in water, or strewed round with soot or lime. Pelargoniums that were placed ont to ripen after flowering will now be ready to be cut back, which operation shonld at once be performed, leaving from three to seven buds or eyes, according to the age or size of the plants and tho purpose for which thoy are likely to be required next year. It desired large, tho shoots left after pruning should not be less than 4 in. or 5 in., as these can then be pegged or tied out so na to form the frame or foundation of the future specimen. When pruned, they must bo kept somewhat drier than before, as there will be less root action till they begin to break, when a slight increase of water should bo administered. Where there is tho convenience of a spore pit or frame, they may with advantage be placed therein after pruning, in order to protect them from heavy rains which, from saturating the soil, would prove highly injurious to tho roots. An occasional light syringing will bo found of great assistance in inducing the buds to push, and suit tho plants better than tho ball receiving nn overdose of water. Tho fancy varieties, especially, are benefited by this treatment, as they will not endure anything like the same amonnt of drying off as tho Aug. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 1S7 large-lcavod kinds, owing to their greater sacculency of stem and large, fleshy roots. The tops, as they are taken off, may still be made use of for cuttings, most of which will strike freely if placed in a cold frame or half.spent hot-bed, where they can be shaded and kept moistened overhead occasionally. Hydrangeas. — As these go ont of bloom they should at once be pruned into Shape by shortening the long straggling shoots, after which plunge the plants in an open sunny situation, that the growth they make may be compact and short-jointed. So managed they will form large globular, symmetrical heads, which, from the thorough ripening the young growth is sure to receive from exposure during the remainder of the summer, will be laden with massive trusses of flowers, that arc always such an ornament during the early spring months. Any one visiting Covent Garden at that season cannot fail to have been struck with the dwarf well, managed plants of those grown in 6-in. or S-in. pots, each of which carries an enormous head of bloom, varying from 10 in. to 15 in. through. Those who wish to have plants of a similar size and description should set about their propagation as soon as strong cuttings can be obtained, having the flower. buds already formed and visible at the ends of the young shoots to be severed. Such cuttings can generally be obtained from established plants, growing in an open sunny situation, where, in order to assist them to produce a suitable growth, they should be afforded an occasional soaking with liquid manure, or have the surface-soil mulched over by applying it in a solid state. The cuttings should be taken off so as to preserve about three or four pairs of leaves after the necessary trimming has taken place, which will involve the removal of those from the lower joint to admit of inserting them firmlv in the soil in which they are to form root. Single pots of small size are the best in which to strike them, as then they can be shifted on into others without any further check to the leaves or newly-formed roots. In preparing the pots, place only a single crock over the hole, and on this a few small pieces of dry crusty manure, afterwards filling up tho pots with good fibry loam in which to insert the cuttings. The pots con. taining them should then be plunged in slight bottom-heat, under the protection of hand-lights or a glazed frame, in which they should have plenty of air after the first few days to keep the tops cool and prevent the buds from starting, which a close moist heat would induce them to do. In order to keep the leaves fresh and pre- vent them from flagging, they should be frequently syringed and kept well shaded from the sun till the roots are formed, after which the shading should be gradually dispensed with, and the plants receive their final shift into 6-in. pots. The variegated varieties of Hydrangea are well deserving cultivation for the beauty of their foliage, independent of the fine heads of bloom they produce, almost equalling in that respect any of the green. leaved kinds. When forced early they show much more delicacyof colouring than if grown naturally, and are therefore doubly valuable on that account. Where ornamen. tal-foliaged plants are in request for decorative purposes during the early spring, no better subjects can be had than the two fine forms of the above, known as H. aurea variegata and H. argentea variegata. These may bo propagated at anytime when cuttings can be obtained, and as they are most usefal for the ornamental appearance of their foliage, the object should be to get them to a good size as quickly as possible, which may be accomplished by potting them in rich soil, and growing them under glass in a moist atmosphere, where they can get the benefit of a little shade. Primulas. — The earliest of these should now be of suSicient size to be transferred to their flowering pots, which need not be larger than 6 in., unless very fine specimens be aimed at. A soil composed principally of loam and leaf-soil in about equal proper, tions, is the best in which to grow them ; the leat-soil should be well decomposed, and when that is not readily obtainable, good fibry peat may be substituted for it. In potting press the soil firmly around the old ball, and afterwards keep the plants erect in position by sticking a few small twigs close to their stems. During the preva. lence of dry, hot weather the plants should be freely syringed over, head every evening, and at other times the floor of the pit or frame in which they are growing kept well damped, that the atmosphere may at all times be sufiiciently charged with moisture. Ours are now growing in three-light frames, so placed as to catch the shade of some trees during the greater part of the day, a situation that suits them much better than if more exposed, thus obviating the protec tion of mats to shelter them from the sun's rays. In open positions, without great watchfulness, they do not get shaded in time, or the mats or other protectors remain on longer than is necessary or desir. able for the welfare of the plants, whereby they become drawn, and are, therefore, not so strong and capable of producing flowers as when subjected to plenty of light, under which conditions the growth produced is much stouter and firmer in texture. The backs of the lights should be tilted day and night, to keep the air cool and in a healthy condition. — J. SHEP?iKD, Woolverstone Parlc.\ Orchids. A brisk temperatnre must be maintained in Orchid-houses all through this month, as many of the plants arc in active growth, and if not furnished with a warm atmosphere the young shoots will not have finished growing before the short, dull days will have set in. Where growth is finished the plants must be removed to a cool, dry house to ripen it and prepare them for fiowering. From tho present time, and throughout the season, the plants should be gone over once a week, and those which are ready for resting selected and treated as recommended. It is highly important that Orchids should have a season of rest (differing in duration according to the nature of the plant) after growth is finished, and even cultivators who have only one Orchid-house can manage to give them that if but ordinary care be taken. If there be no convenience for moving the plants while resting into a house by themselves, they should be placed in the coolest and driest part of the house in which they have made their growth, or they should be placed on a shelf or suspended from the roof where air can be freely admitted, water being withheld, unless the plants show signs of shrivelling, when a small supply should be given them. Water should be frequently thrown under the stages and about the houses in which Orchids are growing, and a good supply of it should be given to all plants in an active state. Removing thrips, scale, &c., is a matter which requires constant attention. A collection of plants may easily be kept clean by picking out and cleaning one here and there as they may require it. This is much to be preferred to severe cleanings at long intervals. Cattleyas, Lcelias, Aerides, Vandas, Ac, are often greatly injured by such so. called thorough cleanings, and bear traces of the treatment to which they have been subjected for years. The temperatures during August should be East India or warm house, from 75' to 85° by day and 70' at night ; that of the Cattleya or intermediate house from 70° to 80' by day and 65° at night ; and that of the Odontoglossnm or cool house from 60' to 70° by day and 55° at night. The higher day temperatures are for snn.heat. Those who have but one house should treat it as an intermediate house, carefully attending to the ventilation and arranging the plants according to their respective requirements. — James O'Briex. Roses. As the budding season is getting far advanced, thoae who have Briers or Stocks should "work" them before the bark gets set. Before operating give the Stocks a good soaking of water, which will cause the sap to flow more freely than it otherwise would do, and use cotton for tying, so as to protect the bud from getting dried up too soon. The season being dry and hot, Roses that have been budded should be well attended to with water, and an occasional sprinkle with the syringe overhead will be of benefit to them. Roses on gravelly soils will have suffered considerably ; they have done so even in clay soils in cases in which watering has been neglected. As soon as tho first bloom is over, Roses should have a good soaking of water, at the same time clearing the plants of dead foliage and flowers. Where cut flowers are in great demand the plants must be well looked after, and if well treated they will keep up a good succession. Tender Roses have not done well this season, owing to the cold, late spring which we experienced, especially Marechal Niel, but now they are making good growth and will no doubt produce plenty of fine flowers in autumn. Climbing Roses out of flower should be cleaned, and the young growth tied so as to keep them neat in appearance. Shorten back any very strong shoots in the case of standards or dwarf bushes, so as to keep them even in growth and well shaped. — H. G. Old Orange Trees.— There is an Orange tree in tho yard of the Convent of St. Sabina, at Rotae, oaid to have been planted by St. Dommic iu 12U0. In the neighbourhood of Finale is an Orange tree which bears nearly 8O110 OranRos in a single year. There are in Holland many Orange trees which have been in the same family 200 and 3J0 years. Shephardia rotundifolia (Parry).— This presents to the beholder, at first sight, 80 bright and silvery an appearance, that people seeing it for the first time exclaim— oh, how beantiful, how much like silver ! The leaves of this shrab are covered with short, soft hairs that give it its silvery appearance ; they are very thick and round in shape ; the flowers are small and incon- spicnous, being of a dull yellow ; and the female flowers, which are borne on separate plants, are almost apetalous ; but the greatest beautj^ about this plant is its flower-buds, which are fall-sized in December, allhough it does not flower until early spring. These buds, round on the male, oblong on the female plants, are, according to Mr. Siler, writing in the "Gardeners' Monthly," to all appear, ance little balls of silver ; the fruit, which ripens iu June and July, is about -i-in. long by i-in. wide, and is covered with stinging hairs, which, when examined under tho glass, look like stars. This shrub is an evergreen. 138 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 5, 1876. NEW EACBS OF CROTONS. A siNGULAK fact, and one to which the attention of horticul- turists has repeatedly been directed is, that many — very many of the most beautiful and useful plants now grown in our gardens are the progeny of types which have been long culti- vated by the inhabitants of other countries. The Tree Peony, Chrysanthemums, Eoses, and Primroses of China were cul- tivated for ages in that country ere they were introduced to our gardens ; the same remark applies to most of our fruit trees and many of our culinary vegetables, and it also holds gocd with respect to the beautiful group of evergreen stove shrubs now under notice. The original species or types from which many of our decorative and useful plants have origi- nated are now unknown, and this appeai-s to be the case in regard to Crotons, since the green-leaved type appears to be unknown, at any rate in this country. C. pictum is the accepted type from which the numerous and exceedingly variable varieties in cultivation have originated, partly as wild or native seedlings or sports, and partly as cross-bred garden varieties in this country. In the Moluccas and South Sea Islands, C. pictum is largely cultivated by the natives and settlers as a decorative shrub ; it is also used for fencing the enclosures around their dwellings, and the branches are often employed for decoration on festive occasions along with the foliage of the Dracajnas, of which D. ferrea is the oldest cultivated type. Crotons of all kinds are readily propagated by means of cuttings made of the young lateral shoots; these root freely if inserted in a well -drained cutting pot and plunged in a genial bottom-heat of from V5° to 80°. The best compost for Crotons is a matter of some importance. Fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and peat, in equal proportions with a little coarse, well-mashed sandstone grit, make an excellent compost for Crotons, and when they are well established, manurial stimulants can be added in the form of liquid manure ; this is better than adding solid manure to the soil when potting. The chief points requiring attention in the culture of Crotons are ample heat, full exposure to light, and good ventilation : low, light, span-roofed houses suit them best, and if the glass be stippled with whiting — or, better still, a thin piece of tiffany be suspended an inch or two below the glass to intercept the direct rays of the sun, the leaves will become all the better coloured. One of the best cultivators of Crotons with whom I am acquainted plunges the pots in a bark bed when he starts his plants in spring, and thus treated they grow most luxuriantly ; he also turns them regularly round once or twice a week, so as to give every loaf an equal share of direct light. If the house in which Crotons, Draca3nas, and similar plants are grown be well ventilated and kept moist, it is next to impossible to give them too much heat when growing, for it is useless to try to grow good Crotons under cool treatment. Occasional sponging is beneficial, and a sharp eye must be kept for thrips, scale, and mealy bug. The extreme variety observ- able in the leaves of Crotons deserves attention. The earliest form of leaf, as shown in C. pictum, is oblong lance-shaped, or Laurel-like ; the next strikingly distinct leaf was that of C. angustifolium, a linear, drooping leaf, with a more or less undu- lating margin ; then came narrow, lance-shaped leaves, with undulated edges, as in C. undulatum ; and broad, smooth, Aucuba-like leaves, as in C. maximum and 0. Hookeri. These were succeeded by interrupted linear foliage, as in 0. inter- ruptum, and others ; linear leaves twisted corkscrew fashion, as in C. spiralo ; and convolute or ram's-horn-shaped, as in C. volutum ; and the latest additions are varieties with long, broad, regular, or irregular strap-shaped leaves, or with the halberd-like or trilobed foliage, as figured on p. 141. New varieties of Crotons are readily obtainable from seed, but as the male and female flowers are borne on different flower- spikes, it follows that cross-fertilisation is necessary in order to secure seed. Any two good varieties may be crossed, and the result is sure to be interesting, but with the extreme variety now at command cultivators generally will be satisfied with the sorts already in cultivation. Of those the best are included in the following list : — Croton pictum.— This, one of the oldest of all the varieties, is yet often met with in the form of a specimen plant in good colleo- tions. When well grown it attains a height of from 2 ft. to 5 ft., and is of compact, pyramidal habit, and when well coloured by full exposure to the light the foliage acquires ever. varying tints of gold, bronze, brown, green, yellow, and crimson. The plant is very robust, and easily cultivated. C. variegatum. — This is one of the commonest of all Crotons, nevertheleBs, when well grown, it is very effective. Its leaves, which arc oblong lance-shaped, are about 6 in. in length, the ground colour being bright green mottled, marbled-veined, and spotted with golden yellow. When well grown it forms a large and handsome exhibition plant, but it has now been smpassed by the long.leaved C. Weiamanni and others. A variety of this plant, C. variegatum longifolium, is distinct, and well worth culture as a table plant or for exhibition purposes. Its leaves are from 6 in. to 10 in. in length, and heavily mottled with golden yellow. C. angustifolium. — Although old this is still one of the best of all decorative Crotons, and when well grown is unsurpassed by any other variety in graceful beauty. Its leaves, which are from 8 in. to 11 in. in length, and about half-an.inch in width, are bright green mottled and blotched with gold, the young leaves being nearly all yellow. Cuttings of it struck in heat in February and grown on in a fresh open compost near the glass, form handsome plants from 1 ft. to 18 in. in height in about nine months, and in that condition make excellent table plants, contrasting well with the more sombre tints of Palms and Ferns. Like the other varieties, it grows best in a high temperature and hnmid atmosphere in a position near the glass, where it can get plenty of sun-light. C. Weisraanni. — A remarkably distinct, ornamental-foliaged plant, in habit somewhat resembling C. variegatum longifolium, with long, narrow leaves, striped and mottled with gold of the brightest possible hue. It is of very graceful habit and of tree growth, the leaves attaining 10 in. to 12 in. in length, and about three-quarters of an inch wide, very acute at the apex. The upper surface is of a dark shining green, with gold blotches, the mid.rib and margins golden yellow, while the under surface is similar, but of a paler green. When well grown this variety attains a height of from 5 ft. to 6 ft., and forms a pyramidal mass of bright, goldeu.mottled leaves. It is one of the beat of all the newer kinds of Crotons for purposes of exhibition, and smaller plants of it form bright and charming speci- mens for dinner table or room decoration when used along with Palms and Ferns. C. Veitchianum. — This plant, which was introduced from the South Sea Islands by Messrs. Veitch, has foliage of great size, and is distinct as regards colouring. The leaves attain a length of from 12 in. to 11 in. by 2i in. wide, the young leaves being traversed by broad bands of creamy.yellow, which change with age into rose and carmine-purple, the intensity of these colours increasing as the leaves become older. It is a very effective variety, either for exhibition or decorative purposes, and well deserves culture. C. grande. — A fine, bold.habited stove plant from the South Sea Islands, oblong-obovate leaves 8 in. long and nearly half as much in width, with a stout foot.stalk varying from 1 in. to 2i in. in length. These leaves are, in the young state, of a rich deep green, with a yellowish rib and scattered yellow spots, the stalks being pale- coloured at the base and apex, where they are also thickened. As the plants gain maturity they become more distinctly veined and spotted with yellow. It has received several certificates, and is a very desirable decorative plant. C. spirals. — This is a veiy distinct and effective variety, both on account of its form and colouring. The spiral twisting of the leaf blade, which has suggested its name, is very marked and very con. stant. The leaves are from 9 in. to 12 in. long, and about an inch wide, deep green, with a broad, golden, yellow bar up the centre, the green margin twisting spirally around the golden bar, some leaves being partly spiral and partly undulate. The older leaves become a deep bronzy-groen, almost purple, and the midrib a deep crimson. This is one of the best of the Crotons for ornamental purposes. It is a South Sea Island kind, and was awarded a first-class certificate by the Floral Committee of the Royal Hortioultural Society. C. Youngi. — This is a useful variety, perfectly distinct in every woy from any other kind yet known. It is of noble and graceful habit, the leaves being of great substance, from li ft. to 2 ft. in length by three-quarters of an inch in width, deep red underneath, while the upper surface is dark green, densely blotched, and suffused with creamy yellow and bright rosy -red. The habit of the plant is graceful, and it has a noble and yet elegant and light appearance, and the variegation is rich and effective. It well deserves a place as a decorative plant or for dinner-table decoration, when in a small state. C. volutum.— Avery distinct-looking form, the great peonlia,rity of which consists in the leaves being rolled up from the end in a volute, after the manner of the curving of a ram's horn. These p Aug. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 139 leaves are 6 in. long, and IJ in. or more in breadth, and boantifally coloured. The ground colour is a deep green, a golden bar a quarter of an inch wide runs down the centre, from which yellow veins diverge at about half.inoh intervals, and meet near to, and so as to coalesce with, the golden margin, in which occur irregularly-scattered green spots. The markings are very regular, a little pink sometimes appearing in the midrib ; the curving of the leaf-blade is also very constant, causing the edges to be elevated so as to form a kind of channel. The bark of the young shoots is also variegated with yellow. It is one of the most beautiful and eSective among the many fine Crotons which have come to us from the islands of the South Seas. It has received a first-class certificate from the Royal Horticultural Society, under the temporary name of C. cornigerum, which is not properly applicable to it. This plant has been exhibited Veitch, from the South Sea Islands. It is of the usual free Crotou growth, the edges of the leaves being beautifully undulated and wavy, and the variegation consisting of numerous markings and blotches, which, in the matured leaves, are of the brightest crimson on a dark green ground, and in the young leaves at first yellow, gradually chinging to pink and crimson, the base of the petiole being a vejy light green. As a plant for table decoration it will be an universal favourite, the colours by gas or lamp-light having a magnificent effect. This kind may perhaps be best described as a narrow-leaved variety of 0. pictnm, with wavy, margined leaves, and when well grown near the light, so as to properly develop its colour, it is a very useful plant for purposes of exhibition. C. ohrysophyllum.— Avery dwarf, bushy.habited plant, with comparatively small, crowded leaves, the lower ones green with a in good condition by Mr. Bull, but it is better adapted for ordinary purposes of stove decoration than as an exhibition plant. It is one of the most peculiar and distinct in the whole group, and should find a place in every plant-stove. C. majesticum. — This is one of the finest of this extensive family of plants. It is free-growing, with narrow, elongated leaves ; when young they are deep green, with golden rib and markings, represent- ing venation, but more or less confiuent ; in the more matured foliage the green takes on a deep olive hue, while the yellow portion changes to crimson, the intermediate leaves being coloured with intermediate tints. The regularly-drooping, elongate leaves give the plant a very elegant character. It is a native of the South Sea Islands, and is well deserving of culture. C. undulatum. — This is one of the most beautiful varieties of the fins collection of Crotons brought to this country by Mr. J. G. golden rib, but all those near the end of the branches bright yellow in the basal half, the upper half being green, or green with golden rib. The peculiar style of colouring, which might almost be called golden-crowned, and dwarf, close habit of the plant, give it a very distinct appearance. It is pre-eminently suitable as a dinner table plant, for which purpose it is worth growing ; but its dwarf habit is against its being of any service as an exhibition plant. C. picturatum. — A handsome and distinct variety obtained from the New Hebrides. It is highly-coloured and effective, as well as singular in its development. The older leaves are some 18 in. long and about 1 in. broad, somewhat irregular at the edge, and with a teudency towards spiral contortion. The midrib is bright red, and the surface is marked throughout in an irregular blotchy manner with clear yellow passing to red. In certain stages of growth leaves of a different character are produced ; there is, for example, an oblong 140 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 5, 1876. leafy peltate base, from the back of which the oosta ia continued like an excarrent thread, at the end of which ia appended another elongate leafy portion, having a cupped or peltate Laae. The form of these parts ig very variable. C. Bismarcki. — Thia ia one of the diatinot forms recently intro- duced from tlie South Sea lalanda, and may be taken aa intermediate between the Auouba-leaved and the hastate-leaved groups. The leaf ia nearly fiddle-ahaped, the obovate basal part being the broadest, the middle of the leaf being narrowed, and the apex again expanded into an ovate-shaped blade. The leaf ia dark green, with a golden band along the midrib, and the veins aro indicated by irregular yellow lines, among which a few blotches are interspersed. C. concinnum. — A new variety close and neat in habit, the variegation being regular and well marked. The leaves are lanceo- late, and from G in. to 10 in. in length, of a bright green colour, the midrib being indicated by a broad golden band, from which the prin. cipal lateral veins spring in their yellow lines, which meet and ramify into each other near their extremities. When well grown the midrib and principal veins and petioles acquire a bright carmine or crimson tint, and the plant is then very ornamental. It well deserves culture for dinner table decoration, or as any ordinary stove plant. C contortum. — Thia ia a singular and irregular plant, and one not particularly attractive, but the variety of form assumed by the leaves renders it interesting. The leaf-bladea are generally long and narrow, but some ai'e very much undulated at the margin, others spirally twisted, and others are narrowed as well aa undulated or twisted, scarcely any two leaves being alike on the whole plant. The ■apicea of the leavea are somewhat rounded, and are terminated by a more or less excurrent thread or awn. It ia a plant that deserves culture on account of its variability. C. imperiale. — Thia is a remarkable form from the New Hebrides, the leaves of which are very stout and leathery in texture, very unequal in length, bluntly rounded at the apex, and with the midrib excurrent in the form of an awl-like point about 1 in. below the point of the leaf. Many of the leaves are more or leas twisted, looking as if the upper half had been taken between the thumb and linger, and allowed to remain fixed after it had been twisted half round. The course of the midrib ia yellow, ultimately becoming crimson, so that the variegation ia crimson and gold on a dark gi-een ground, the surface of tho leaf being mottled with crimson and rod. It makes a sturdy and handsome specimen, and well deserves calture. C. Macafeeanum. — This ia a handsome, broad-leaved plant, introduced quite recently. Its leaves are oblong. ovate, transversely marked near the centre with a series of mottled blotches which extend from the midrib half-way to the margin, added to which are yellow spots between the veins. When well grown it makes an effective plant, but like all other Crotons it requires an abundance of light and heat in order to colour its foliage well. It has received one or two certificatea, and waa named by Messrs. Veitch in honour of Mr. Macafee, an Australian gentleman, who has one of the most complete collections of Crotons in cultivation. C. Cooperi. — This ia an elegant.habited variety, having grace- fully arching, linear, lance-shaped leaves, with undulating margins and golden or reddish veins on a dark green ground. When well grown it is a most attractive plant, and useful in a young state for table decoration. Our illustration (see p. 139), for which we aro indebted to Messrs. Veitch, shows the general contour of the plant admirably C. splendidum. — A very handsome variety, introduced from the New Ilebrides. It is in some respects like C. mnjesticum, for though altogether shorter in tho leaves, it takes on the same rich crimson and yellow colouring, here and there relieved by a golden patch. The leaves are ligulate or strap-shaped, drooping, in the older ones very dai-k purplish. green, with a crimson midrib and a line of yellow on each side tho red ; occasionally there are transverse yellow veins near the edge. The edge ia sometimes plane, sometimes undulated, and not unfrequently the lamina) are spirally twisted for two or three turns. Sometimes the colour ia bronze.green with a red costa. The handsomest form of vegetation it assumes is a bronzy ground colour with a yellow rib, having a red line down tho centre, and slender, lateral veins, yellowish. red above and below. C. Moiti. — A strong-growing, robust, and finely-marked addition to this now comprehensive family. Tho leaves are largo, oblong, elliptic or obovate, broadest on the upper half, acute, or shortly acnminate at the apex, and narrowed to an acute base j they aro of a very dark green colour, the costa being marked out by a band of golden yellow i in. wide, and all tho principal veins also being broadly marked with yellow ; these latter markings meet near the edge, where there ia a variegation of broken, reticulated, golden lines. The intermediate spaces are freckled with yellow dots. C. trilobum. — In this we have the type of an entirely new race of Crotons, having lobate leaves, and therefore quite distinct from those already familiar to na in gardens. The present is the first of this type which was offered in commerce. The leaves are from 9 in. to 10 in. long, the lower third of their length being from 2^ in. to 3 in. wide, narrowing downwards towards the petiole ; this broader portion forms in some cases a rounded shoulder, in othei'S a short lobe; the middle portion of the leaf is narrowed, the sides being nearly parallel towards the base, but towards the shortly acuminate apex again bulging out slightly, so that this portion becomes broadest upwards. The more perfectly formed leavea have, in consequence, a kind of hastate or halberd-shaped outline, but with an elongated base Tho midrib and principal veins are marked out by lines of golden yellow, and tho leaves are variously reticulated and spotted with the same on a green ground ; the veins themaelvea eventually take on a crimaon hue, which ia extended to the apot, while more or leas of tho orange tint, caused by the blending of the yellow and red, becomes suffused over the surface, and the under side is of a uniform wine-rod in the mature stages. It ia a thoroughly distinct and remarkably handsome addition to collections of orna mental. foliaged plants. C. TKiLODUM Alberti. — This is another of the hastiferoua forms of Croton which has boon recently introduced from tho South Sea Islands. In the present form the leaves are wedge-shaped at tho base, with a pair of lateral lobes, produced at different points iu different loaves, but within the lower half of the leaf, the middle lobe being oblong-apathulate, bulged near the end, and terminating in a abort, acute point. The middle and lateral veins are yellow, while a few yellow dots are scattered aberrantly here and there over the surface — this yellow colouring passing to red as it acquires age and exposure. C. TRiLonvM Disraeli. — A handsome variety, bearing long-atalked leaves, widening upwards from a wedge-shaped base, and diverging usually into a pair of nearly opposite and equal basal lobes, but some- times unequally developed, one or other of the lobes being reduced to a roundish shoulder; above this they are contracted, and then near the apex they are somewhat widened again, and then narrowed to an acute point ; they are nearly or quite 2 ft. long, and have the midrib and moat of the ribs of a golden yellow, with scattered spota of the same colour. These yellow markinga assume a crimson tint on full exposure. C. TKir.oBUM Lord C.^irn'S. — A fine variety of tho three-lobed section, with rich green foliage spotted with yellow, tho midrib also being yellow; the leavea aro wedge-shaped at the base, with two lateral lobes in the lower half of the leaf. Tho long middle lobe is broader at the end, and terminates in a abort, acute poiut. C. TRiLonuM Traveller. — Like the reat of that series, the leavea in this case have a long central and two short lateral lobes. Tlieao leaves are of a dark green colour, and are marked by a yellow mid. rib, and a few yellow, scattered spota. It was imported from the South Sea Islands. The following are the names of twelve of tho best Crotons now ia cultivation, viz.: — angustifolium | raajesticum I spirale I undulatum imperinle Morti trilobum volutum Macafeeanum I picturatum ' trilobum Disraeli ' Wcisnianni Flower Worshippers. — Dr. George Birdwood writes in the "Athensoum": — " Very beautiful is the Persian's love for flowers. In Bombay I found tho Parseea use tho Victoria Gardena chiefly to walk in, ' to eat the air ' — * to take a constitutional,' as we say. Their enjoyment of it was heartily animal. Tho Hindu would stroll unsteadfastly through it, attracted from flower to flower, no£ by its form or colour, but its scent. He would pass from plant to plant, snatching at the flowers and crushing them between his fingers, and taking Btray sniffa at the ends of his fingers as if he were taking anuff. His pleasure in the flowera was utterly sensual. Presently, a true Persian, in flowing robe of blue, and on his head his sheepskin hat, ' Black, gloasy, curl'd, tho fleece of Kar-Kul,' would saunter in, and stand and meditate over every flower he saw, and always as if half in vision. And when at last the vision was fullllled, and tho ideal flower he was seeking found, he would spread his mat and sit before it until the sotting of the sun, and then pray before it, and fold np his mat again and go home. And tho next night, and night after night, until that particular flower faded away, he would return to it, and bring his friends in ever-increasing troops to it, and sit and sing and play the guitar or lute before it, and they would all together pray there, and after prayer still sit before it, sipping sherbet, and talking the moat hilarioua and shocking scandal, late into the moonlight ; and so again and again every evening until tho flower died. Aus. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 141 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. BEANS AND THEIR CULTURE. Scarlet Eunners. These not only rank amongst the most nsefal of summer vegetables, but the plants themselves make excellent tem- porary green screens for hiding unsightly objects. Scarlet Kunners are generally raised from seed, but the roots may, if desired, be taken up in autumn and preserved through the winter in dry sand or in soil in any shed or cellar from which frost is excluded. If roots thus wintered be brought out and meet at the top, where they are tied. In small gardens they are often trained over wire or wood-work, so as to form summer houses or coverings for walks. In large gardens the general practice is to sow in open quarters, and where Beans are required as long in the season as they can be obtained and in large quantities, this is undoubtedly the best plan. They should be allowed a distance of at least 6 ft. between the rows, and if more can be afforded them, all the better. For early crops, a few rows may be made close under a south wall or fence, keeping the points regularly pinched out, in order to keep them dwarf and encourage the earlier development of the pods. In this case they will, of course, need no support, buc bo planted about the latter end of May, they come into bearing a fortnight or three weeks earlier than those raised from seed sown at the same time. We have also seen them left in the ground all winter, protected from frost by a good thick layer of coal ashes placed over the rows. Thus treated they start early in May, if the weather be favourable ; and when they have attained the height of 3 ft. or 4 ft., if stopped, will pro- duce Beans much earlier than by any other method ; but if a profitable crop be desired, this plan is not to be recommended, as the plants do not continue in bearing so long as those that are raised from seed. Among positions chosen for Scarlet Eunners may be named small patches of ground at the corners of walks, planting five or six seeds in a patch, 5 in. or 6 in. apart. Three stout poles or sticks, as used for Peas, are then placed round them in the form of a triangle, bent so as to allowed to lie in a thick row along the ground. Beans may be produced in this way several weeks earlier than in open quarters, but they do not continue so long iu bearing, nor do they produce such abundant crops. Where, however, earliness is an object, this plan may be followed with advantage. Seeds for this purpose may either be sown in heat and transplanted, or sown in the open ground where the plants are to remain. The former is the most troublesome, but it is the best where covering is at hand to protect them from cold winds and frosts after they have been planted. If sown in heat, the seeds should be put in about the second week in May, either in boxes or pots, the former being the best ; they should be shallow, say not more than 4 in. or 5 in. deep, their size in other respects being of no great importance ; they should have holes in their bottoms for drainage, and should be half-filled with half-rotted 142 THE GARDEN. [AcG. 5, 1876. leaf -mould pressed down rather firmly with the hand ; slightly cover with fine soil, and upon this sow in rows 2 in. apart, and cover with about half-an-inch of finely-sifted leaf-mould, giving the whole a good watering. If placed in a Cucumber or Melon frame at " work," they will soon be up, and should be kept as near the glass as possible, in order to prevent them from becoming drawn. After they have made two single leaves, they should be taken to a cold frame or pit, gradually inuring thera to the open air, so as to make them as hardy as possible previous to planting out, which may be done the first week in June. Before planting them out, they should have a good watering, and be taken out of the boxes with as much earth adhering to them as possible. Plant either in double or single rows, 4 in. or 5 in. apart, as close to the wall or fence as may be convenient. If they be then well watered and shaded from the sun for a day or two, and protected from cold at night, they will soon make a good start. The first sowing in the open ground for a general crop should be made not earlier than the first week in May, for if they are up before the end of that month they are liable to be cut oil with frost unless protection can be afforded them — a rather troublesome matter where large quantities are grown. Some draw drills in which to sow the seeds, but the best way is to plant them in with a dibble about an inch deep, and then draw the rake over the ground to fill in the holes. Double rows are to be preferred to single ones, as they produce more Beans. Each seed should be at least 6 in. apart. Managed in this way they grow strongly, and if stopped when they have attained the height of 5 ft. or 6 ft. they will produce fine large trusses of bloom from top to bottom. Where successions are desired, several sowings must be made. The general rule is to sow one good crop and let that serve all purposes ; but if a sowing be made the first week in May, a second a few weeks after- wards, and another not later than the first of July, a con- tinuous supply of young and tender Beans will be the result ; the last sowing, however, should be only a small one. Sowing in trenches has lately been much practised, and in some cases no doubt with advantage ; but when sown in deeply trenched ground trenches are unnecessary. They are generally made with the view of affording an effectual means of watering the plants : but they necessitate the water being applied close to their bases, which is hurtful rather than beneficial to Runner Beans. Where, however, the earliest crop of Scarlet Runners has to be sown in open quarters, the best way is to take out a trench, say 3 in. or 4 in. deep, laying the soil on each side of it in ridges ; Pea wires or bent Ha/.el sticks may then be placed on the rows after the seed has been sown and covered ; they will afford good supports for mat or canvas protections until such time as they will do without covering ; if the soil be put back in the trench, earthing-up will not be necessary. As regards sticking, where procurable common Pea-sticks are best adapted for Kidney Beans, but they require to be rather larger and stronger than for Peas ; for unless firmly sticked, they are apt to suffer during rough, windy weather. Where, however, such sticks are not obtainable, stout poles, 7 ft. or 8 ft. long, may be used, placing them firmly in the ground at intervals of 12 ft. or 14 ft. apart along each side the row. Slender sticks cut the same length as the distance the poles are apart may then be tied lengthways along the poles 1 ft. or Ig ft. apart ; the tendrils will then twine firmly round the whole, and afford the plants good support. With respect to soil, a light rich loam is best adapted to the growth of the Scarlet Runner, and it should bo deep, to allow of the roots descending in time of drought. Previously to planting, the ground should be deeply trenched and enriched by means of a liberal supply of good rotten manure. Where, however, time cannot be spared for this, trenches may be taken out 2 ft. wide and from 2 ft. to 3 ft. deep, according to the depth of the soil. The .soil thus taken out should then have plenty of good manure mixed with it, and be re-placcd in the trench. If this be done in autumn it will be advantageous. Varieties. — There are numerous varieties of Runner Beans, but those most generally grown are the common Scarlet Runner and Painted Lady. Carter's Champion has, during the last few years, been largely grown, and deservedly, for it is a fine productive Bean of good quality. There are many other kinds of Runner Beans that are by uo means commonly grown, but which are yet of great special merit, and afford also differ- ences in quality and flavour that make them specially accept- able. Allowing the Scarlet Runner, as it is, to be delicious, yet one may tire of eating it every day for weeks in succession, but if alternate dishes of other equally good kinds that differ iu character can be furnished, the pleasure of partaking fre- quently of Runner Beans is enhanced. Two of the very best of these Runners are the Eclipse and the Premier, both little known, but where known much appreciated. The Eclipse is a tall, strong-growing kind, having vine and foliage resembling those of the old Caseknifc. The pods are long, flat, and straight, and are quite tender even when old. It is a heavy cropper, and furnishes a very abundant supply. It is also earlier than the Scarlet Runner, and thus assists to lengthen out the Boan season. Ripe seed of Eclipse is medium-sized, flat, and in colour dull green flaked with dark red. Premier differs entirely from Eclipse, inasmuch as it is really a Runner form of the dwarf French Bean, and as its character has been in this respect well maintained for the past ten years, it is, therefore, perfectly reliable. A few years since, when grown with a large number of other kinds at Chiswick, it was considered sufficiently meritorious to receive a first- class certificate, and since then in its peculiar form it has not been excelled. The plant grows to a height of about 5 ft. It commences to crop close to the ground, and continues to bear heavily until the winter. The green pods are veiy tender and delicious when cooked, and it is altogether a really useful garden vegetable. The coloured-podded Beans are more novel iu appearance than useful as table vegetables. The purple- podded kind partakes of the old Caseknife habit of growth and foliage. The pods are long, but soon fill with the seed. They are, as the name implies, purple in colour, and therefore not at all desirable at table. The blooms are also purple, and for a short time look pleasing and attractive. This Bean may bo useful, and possibly ornamental to grow as an ordinary climber, but it has no useful place in the kitchen garden. The latest novelties among Runner Beans are the Wax-podded and Yellow-podded, or Butter Beans, the latter name being given more out of compliment to the colour of the pod than to its edible quality. These are termed skinless, or rather, like the pods of the Sugar Pea, they have no lining, and should bo cooked and eaten whole. The colour is most objectionable, however, whilst in flavour the Bean is not equal to our green kinds. The varieties of Kidney Bean, whose ripe seed is used for cooking purposes during the winter months, are called Hari- cots ; they come from the East Indies, where the kinds are said to be numerous. The species, however, are not nearly so abundant as is gener.ally supposed ; thus the Phaseolus vul- garis includes at least eight of the commonly adopted species of modern botanists, the P. lunatus four, the P. Max or Mungo (which is either dwarf or climbing, like the P. vulgaris) five or six, the P. truxillensis thi-ee or four, Dolichos (or rather Vigna) sinensis four or five, Lablab vulgaris at least as many, Cana- valia gladiata two or three, and so on. This multiplication of species has not been owing entirely to the considering as botanical species what are mere varieties of cultivation, but in several instances it has arisen from the same varieties having been received from Asia, Africa, and America, and separately described without adverting to their common origin. They are largely grown in some establishments, and are much appre- ciated by French cooks, who use them in many different ways. The Lima Bean is a kind very little known iu England, but nevertheless well worthy of a trial. It is considered by some to be tho best of the Bean family. The climate of England is not hot enough to grow it successfully out-of-doors ; but after May is passed there are in most places plenty of empty frames, pits, etc., in which it might bo grown. It is a climber or runner, but if its tops are kept pinched in, as is often the case wioh Scarlet Runners, it may be kept in a dwarf state. It is shelled and cooked like Peas ; and is also excellent when dried and cooked in winter like Haricots, to which it is greatly superior. Lima Beans are a rather troublesome vegetable to prepare for the table on account of the difficulty of shelling them. In the ordinary Lima there is a great waste of pod ; the Beans are set wide apart, and the pod is often so con- stricted that the halves touch between the Beans. A large Aug. 5, 1876.] THE GAEDBN. 143 pod will frequently have but two, or at most three Beans, but this can be improved by always selecting for seed the fullest pods. The Lima is a distinct species (Phaseolus lunatus) from the common bush and pole Bean (P. vulgaris), and shows very little disposition to depart from its natural condition, or, as the phrase goes, it will not " break " readily into varie- ties. Some years ago many experiments were made with the view of producing a low-growing or bush Lima, but its tall-growing disposition could not be overcome. A few years ago Mr. Henry A. Dreer showed some Limas which were considered an improvement upon the ordinaiy kind. They were the result of a careful selection carried on for some twenty years. In these Beans the pods are not only full, with no spaces betweeuj but are as full as they can stick, the seeds so crowding one another that the ends of the central Beans are square ; the Bean is also much thicker than the ordinary kiud. A Bean of this description, bearing the same number of pods as one of tLe ordinary sort, would, we should judge, yield nearly, if not twice, as much in shelled Beans. It is stated that this variety is much more productive than the common species, yielding, as it does, many more pods. The pod being so completely filled, the shelling becomes an easy matter, and the Beans, when cooked, are much superior to the ordinary ones. Some of the tropical species of Beans are exceedingly beautiful, being of an almost dazzlingly-brilliant colour. They are natives of Hindostan, China, and Japan, among which are some that are not only beautiful in their dried state, but the growing plants are so different from our ordinary kinds that one can scarcely believe them to be Beans. A collection of from 50 to 100 kinds of Beans is not difficult to obtain by a little perseverance, and if arranged in neat phials they are very ornamental. French or Dwarf Beans. These, though largely grown in some places, are not as a rule cultivated in such quantities as they deserve to be. An early sowing is generally made, in order to be able to pick Kidney Beans before it is possible to have those of the Scarlet Runner type in bearing, but as soon as the latter come in, French Beans are almost lost sight of. Tor small gardens the French Bean is invaluable as a summer vegetable, being easily grown, requiring no stakes, and being one of the most remu- nerative of vegetable crops. It may be had out-of-doors, both earlier and later in the season than the taller-growing kinds, owing to its dwarf habit adapting itself to any situation, as for instance under hedges or walls, or other sheltered positions. It also comes into bearing much more quickly than Eunners. As regards flavour, the Scarlet Kunner has, perhaps the advantage, but market gardeners round London know well the value of the Dwarf Bean, and many of them grow it by the acre. The value of French Beans for forcing, and for furnishing the table with a delicate vegetable throughout the winter cannot be over-estimated ; they may be easily grown where hot-water pits or forcing-houses exist, but where such conveniences are not at hand, any attempt at growing them must be abandoned. Some oE the varieties of French Bean are allowed to ripen their seeds, which are dried and stored away until wanted for use. These, when properly dressed, form a very desirable dish in winter when other vegetables are scai-ce. French Beans in their young state are extensively used for pickling. Sowing and Cultujie Out-of-Doors. — Where French Beans arc grown in the open air without protection, it is impossible to have them fit to gather before the latter end of June or beginning of July, unless it be indeed an exceptionally favour- able season. Where, however, they are sown in a warm, dry situation, and somewhat protected from cold winds and late frosts, they may be had fit for table during the second and third week in June. Where it is desirable to have Beans as early in the season as possible, it is a good plan to sow thickly under hand-lights in a warm corner, and then transplant, an operation that should be performed when the plants have made the first pair of rough leaves. After preparing the ground in which they are to be planted, which should be the warmest, driest, and most sheltered available, they may be carefully lifted with as much soil adhering to the roots as possible, and planted in rows 1^ ft. or 2 ft. apart, or in patches, whichever is most practicable ; in either case the plants should be about 6 in. apart. If the planting be done early in the day they may receive a gentle watering to settle the soil round the roots ; if otherwise, it will be better to leave them unwatered until the next morning. All possible protection should then be given them ; if hand-lights be plentiful they are the best, in which case planting in patches should be practised, as the lights can be more easily placed over them, but small twigs of Laurel or Fir placed neatly round them answer the purpose in the absence of anything better. Kough hay-bands stretched lengthways over the rows, about 6 in. or 8 in. from the ground, and firmly secured to stout stakes driven in the ground at each end of the rows, may be employed with advantage. A rough fi-ame made with sticks driven in the ground, and others tied across them to admit of mats, straw hurdles, or any other protecting material being laid upon them at night, are also useful; but whatever is used to protect them, care must be taken so to place it as to avoid draughts as much as possible. Sowings for this purpose may be made in the beginning of April. If the weather be favourable, the ground in which early Beans are to be grown should be deeply dug and left rather rough. The next day when the sun is going down it should be again turned over with a fork, in order to turn the warm soil underneath and expose the cold to the next day's sun. If this can be done two or three days consecutively a great advantage will be gained. The last time on which the soil is moved it should be made fine on the top, to prevent the under soil again becoming cold. When the seed is sown where it is to remain, drills may be drawn with a hoe 2 ft. apart and 2 in. deep, and sufficiently wide to admit of two rows of Beans being placed 3 in. or 4 in. apart. The distance from Bean to Bean in the rows should be 8 in. or 9 in. Where, however, seed is no object they may be sown much thicker and thinned out to the required distances apart, after they are up, by removing the weakest plants. In any case it is advisable to throw in a few extra seeds at the ends of the rows to provide for filling up blanks, which often occur in early crops when the ground is cold and wet. The earliest sowing out-of-doors should be made the second or third week in April, if the weather bo favourable, otherwise it is better to wait a little longer. It is not advisable to plant very largely for early crops, unless they are wanted in quantity ; it will be found better to make two or three small sowings at intervals of a week or ten days during April ; after tliat the principal or main sow- ings may be made until up to the middle of June, after which a few smaller sowings should be made for autumn use. The last sowing should not be later than the end of July, unless protection can be afforded the plants in the autumn. For principal crops the plants should be thinned out to 9 in. or 1 ft. apart in the row, the rows being 2^ ft. or 3 ft. asunder, according to the varieties grown. Earthing up the rows is a point that has been much disputed, some growers being of opinion that it is beneficial, whilst others think the reverse. For early crops we should, however, strongly recommend earthing up, as it has a tendency to keep the soil around the roots in a drier, and consequently a warmer state than it otherwise would be ; for the main crops, however we would recommend rather deeper planting, and heavy mulchings in dry weather in preference to earthing up. Stopping the points of the shoots is practised by some growers ; it is, however, immaterial for general crops, but in the case of early Beans, and those grown under glass, it is decidedly advantageous. CuLTUKE IN" Pits and Fkames. — The method to be adopted for growing Beans under glass must necessarily depend upon the nature of the structures in which they are to be grown. Where only cold pits and frames are employed Beans cannot, of course, be obtained during the winter months, but by a little attention and skill they may be had very late in the autumn, and much earlier in the spring than they can be obtained out-of-doors. If heating material, such as stable litter and leaves, is plentiful, sowings may be made in pits or frames early in March. IE pits be used they should be filled up with heating material to within 2 ft. of the glass, firmly treading it down as the work proceeds. This done, a layer of rotten manure or leaf-mould may be spread over the litter to the thickness of 3 in. or 4 in. ; 6 in. or 8 in. of soil may then be placed on the top, the lights put on and allowed to remain until the soil is found to have got warm, 14 J. THE GARDEN. [Aug. 5, 1876. when the Beans may be put in rather thickly, eventually thinning out so as to leave the plants 6 in. apart each way. If the soil be dry, watering will be necessary, but too much mois- ture must be avoided at this season of the year. If a lining of warm manure can be put round the pit it will be bene- ficial to the growth of the plants. A thick covering will be necessary at night to protect the plants from frost. Where wooden frames or boxes are used, a good bed of leaves and litter should be made, and the box should be placed upon it, building the lining up round the box to the level of the lights, as is done in the case of Cucumbers and Melons. If treated afterwards as recommended for pits, the plants will grow rapidly, i.e., if the weather be at all genial. When they have made two joints beyond the seed leaves, the points may be pricked out, in order to keep them dwarf and sturdy, and cause them to throw out stronger side-shoots than they other- wise would do. If a few small twigs be stuck in the soil between the plants, they will not be so liable to get broken. Abundance ef air will be necessary when the plants are well established, but it must be given discriminately, as a rush of cold air suddenly admitted would cause the tender foliage to shrivel, and render the plants worthless. If it be found that too much steam accumulates in the frame during the night, it will be necessary to have a "crack" of air on. Beans may be obtained in this way by the end of May or beginning of June, and, if properly treated, will yield a fair supply until the early out-door crops come into use. If, however, there be con- venience, another sowing may be made in the same way a fort- night later, in order to insure a crop in the event of any disaster befalling the first out-door crop. Somegrowers prefer raising the plants in pots or boxes and transplanting them into frames, and where time can be spared, this plan is not without advantages ; others prefer growing them entirely iu pots, and plunging them in the pits and frames. Thus managed they come into bearing rather sooner, but they do not generally last so long, neither is the produce so fine as from those planted out. Where, however. Beans are required in the winter, and have to be grown on shelves in houses, then pots are best. Where there are pits heated by flues or hot water-pipes, good Beans ma;y be produced throughout the winter by adopting the same mode of culture as that recommended in the case of cold pits, with the exception that linings will be unnecessary; neither will bottom-heat be needed, but where it is not used growing in pots placed upon boards near the glass is preferable to planting out, as the roots are not then surrounded by suchabulkof cold soil. Iu order to prolong the Bean season a sowing may be made in August in cold pits or frames ; those lately cleared of Melons or Cucumbers will answer perfectly. It is, however, a good plan, previous to sowing to choose a fine, sunny day, and give the soil a good soaking of water, and to wash well all the wood or brick-work with a syringe, after which close the lights and let the sun have full power on the glass ; this will quickly put an end to any insects that may have put in au appearance. After sowiug the lights may be left off night and day, until the coldness of the weather necessitates their being put on. A good, warm covering should be afforded during cold nights. By this means a good supply of Beans may be had until late in November, unless the weather be very severe. For this crop stopping the shoots is unnecessary, inasniuch as the plants will continue longer in bearing if left undisturbed. Culture in Houses. — The best place for the culture of Beans is a span-roofed Cucumber or Melon-house, with a path in the centre and a bed on each side. The Beans may either be planted out or grown in pots ; if the house can be entirely devoted to them, the former is undoubtedly the best plan, but it seldom happens, except in large establishments, that a whole house can bo spared for Beans. Where, however, there is this convenience the best way is to sow the first bed towards the end of September (if sowings have been made in cold pits, Ac, to supply late crops), and another in the course of a month. By the time the plants from the second sowing come into bearing the first crop will bo over, and should be at once removed, and another sowing made in its place ; by this means a good succession may be kept up until Beans are plentiful out of doors. Where the house is sufficiently large to admit of three successional sowings, a more constant supply can of courso be depended upon, It, however, often happens that the only house available for forcing Beans has also to be used for growing Cucumbers ; where this is the case growing in pots is to be recommended, as they can then be readily removed from place to place as required. Beans associate well with Cucumbers, but they mu.^t not be shaded by them. Beans also succeed well iu Pine-stoves or Pine-pits, when planted out along the front, where they can get the benefit of sun-light, or they may be grown in pots placed on shelves with consider- able success. Shelves on the back of early Vineries, Peach- houses, &c., are also good places for Beans, but where these are the only convenient places in which to grow them, a crop cannot be reckoned on until early in spring, few houses of this description being warm enough for them before the begin- ning of January. Pot Culturk. — Beans are grown in pots in various ways, some raise the plants in small pots or shallow boxes, and then transfer them to large pots. This is generally done with the view of giving them a check, and thus inducing them to bear quicker than they otherwise would do ; but we doubt if such is the case. One thing is certain, the produce is not so fine from plants treated in this way as from those grown on without a check. To get fine Beans we must first get fine plants, but, it sometimes happens that all the available space for growing Beans is occupied by those in a bearing state, then, in order to get a succession as soon as possible plants are raised in small pots because there is not room for large cues until such crops have been gathered. Where, however, it can be done, the most expeditious way is to fill the pots in which they are to remain about three-parts full of soil, put in the Beans rather thickly, deep enough to cover them ; and when the plants have grown 1 in. or 2 in. above the rim of the pot, thin them out as required, and fill up with soil to within an inch of the rim. They should be well watered previous to earthing up, and then be allowed to get dry before watering again, as if watered immediately after earthing up the plants are liable to rot off. The most conveuient-sized pots for Beans are 8-in. and 9-in. ones ; smaller or larger ones will answer, but these sizes are generally used in preference to any others. Three plants will be enough to have in 8-iu. pots ; 9-in. ones may have four, and so on according to the sizes used. After the points have been picked out as previously mentioned, the plants should be sticked with small twigs, such as those from an old Birch broom ; or if grown on shelves they may be supported by pieces of twine strained from end to end on each side of them ; if the shelves are against a wall one sti-ing will be enough. Frequent syringing on sunny days will be necessary in order to keep the foliage clean and healthy. Vakieties. — These are now so numerous, owing to so many recent introductions having been made, that it is a difficult matter to say which kinds are really the best. Some varieties, although adapted for forcing, are unfit for producing general crops, whilst the best varieties for out-door crops are often comparatively worthless for forcing. The following are a few of the best for forcing or for the first crop out-of-doors ; but they should bo grown for those purposes only, as they are, both in size of pod and quality, much inferior to good second-early or main-crop kinds. Osborn's Early Forcing is a good variety of dwarf, compact habit, the pods of which, though small, are produced abundantly. Wilmot's Forcing is an excellent kind, a free bearer, and one which produces long pods of good quality; Syon House, Fulmer's Early, and Sir Joseph Paxton are also all excellent in every respect for early work, but for second early ami main crops, the following are some of tho best : — Canadian Wonder, or Red Flageolet, a rather tall-grow- ing kind, of sturdy habit, producing abundance of fine green pods 0 in. or 7 in. long, of excellent quality ; Long-podded Negi'O is another good kind, but it does not bear so freely as the former ; Victoria Dwarf, or Exhibition Dwarf, Cutbush's Giant, Carter's White Advancer, and Salmon Mexican. These are all good for general culture, and also for purposes of exhi- bition. Soil and Watering. — French Beans like a light, rich, sweet soil ; therefore if the ground is not already possessed of these qualities, good rotten manure or leaf -mould should be added. If worms abound, a good dressing of soot or lime should be given ; and if this can bo done in the winter, and the ground thrown into ridges or roughly dug, it will be all the better. Aug. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 145 For pots and beds under glass the soil should consist of three- quarters light turfy loam, and one-quarter decomposed manure or leaf-mould. Soil in which Cucumbers have recently been growing will generally answer well for Beans. In all cases a sprinkling of soot amongst it will be found beneficial. We have seen trimmings from the edgings of walks, chopped up and mixed with fresh horse-droppings, used for pot culture with the very best results. Mulching and "Watering. — A good mulching of Sea-weed or half-x'otted manure from old linings, or litter from Vine borders, applied between the rows of all kinds of Kidney Beans that are grown out-of-doors, will be found beneficial in keeping the soil about the roots in a moist condition, and in promoting a free and luxuriant gx'owth, which is highly neces- sary to the production of long supplies of fine, tender, and juicy Beans. Copious waterings will be necessary for all kinds of Beans wherever they are grown when they are coming into flower if the weather be dry, otherwise, instead of the blooms setting they will fall off. Manure-water may also be advantageously applied after they are set, but not before, as it promotes so mucix growth, which is inimical to bearing. Guano-water may be given to those grown in pots with advantage, but it is no better than good manure-water from the stable-yard, or that made from cow manure. Where, how- ever, the latter is used, a little lime should be previously dis- solved in it, otherwise it has a tendency to make the soil sour and breed worms. Water in all cases should be applied in a tepid state, and avoid pouring it close to the bases of the stems, as they may be injured by by so doing. Gathering. — This should in all cases be done as often as the Beans are fit for use, for if only a few be allowed to get old the bearing properties of the plants will be ; impaired therefore if seed be required let a small sowing be made expressly for that purpose. Pjrbserving Beans. — If during the season there is a super- abundance of Beans, they may be kept for winter use by cutting them up in the ordinary way and putting them in stone jars with plenty of salt. If the air be kept from them they will come out fresh and green in mid-winter, and their flavour will not be much impaired. Beans eob Exhibition. — -In gathering these care must be taken to have all the pods as nearly as possible the same length and age. They should be full grown, but young and brittle, choosing only straight handsome pods for the purpose. If enough cannot be got at one picking, some may be gathered two or three days previous to their being wanted, and if their stalks be inserted in shallow saucers of water and kept in a ccol place, tbey will keep perfectly fresh and green. If they are required to be sent any distance previously to being exhi- bited, they may be kept quite fresh by packing them in tin boxes between layers of damp Moss, Spinach, or Ivy leaves. During summer leaves of the Ice-plant answer well as packing material. Slugs, snails, and red spider are the principal enemies of the Kidney Bean, the two former generally attack the young plants as soon as they are up, and whilst the leaves are young and tender ; we have frequently seen sad havoc made by them in early crops of Beans. In old houses, too, they are generally to be met with, they will crawl up the walls and upon the shelves, and ruin a crop of Beans in a night or two. The most effectual remedy is to hunt them at night, after it is dark, when they may be found upon the leaves, bent on destruction. Lime, salt, and soot will prevent them travelling if it can be laid in such a manner that they cannot get at the plants without crossing it. Salt must not, however, be placed where rain or water can wash it into the roots of the plants. Red spider can only be kept in subjection by frequently syringing the plants overhead, giving plenty of water at the roots, and, in fact, doing everything calculated to promote free and vigorous growth. How Frencli Beans are Grown for Market. Of all market garden summer crops this is the chief; for, when French Beans appear in the market, the demand for Cabbages, Cauliflowers, and Peas begins to decline. Vegetable Marrows being their greatest rivals. French Beans, however, always command a sale, provided they are good and fresh, and overstocking the market with them is almost a thing unknown, but when large quantities of them are introduced prices are materially affected. The Valley of the Thames is perhaps unequalled as regards the growth of this crop, which does best in a deep soil not liable to excessive drought, and that is made light and rich by much working and heavy nianurings. As French Beans are short livers and gross feeders, they require manurial substances of such a character as can be speedily turned to account ; therefore, land that was richly manured for the previous crop — such as for Celery — and that has also been liberally dressed with short manure, such as that from Mushroom beds or old Cucumber pits for this year's crop suits them best. Newington Wonder and Negro are the principal sorts grown in the London market gardens, and, although old varieties, are reckoned to be the two best. Their productive qualities are great, for when well attended to as regards timely picking of the pods they continue fresh, vigorous, and fruitful for a long time, and their pods, as a rule, are less apt to turn tough and unusable with age than is generally the case with other varieties. The Black Belgian has also found its way into the market gardens ; it is a good, dwarf,.early sort, much like the Negi'o, of which it is considered to be a variety. It is very useful for late sowings and for early framework. Some growers prefer the Newington Wonder to all other sorts ; it is a very prolific, dwarf-growing sort. Other growers prefer the Negro, which they grow in frames as their earliest, main, and latest crops; but most of them also grow the Newington Wonder. In Frames and Hand-Lights.— The first crop of French Beans is generally grown in frames, and those just cleared of Cauliflower and Lettuce plants are the ones used for this pur- pose. The frames being already sufficiently filled with mould, it is pointed over with a spade, and the seeds sown, provided the soil be not cold and wet — which might easily be avoided by keeping on the sashes after removing the late occupants — in four rows under each light, and about 3 in. or 4 in. from seed to seed in the row. The middle of March is the common time for sowing in frames, and then the sashes may be kept close till the seeds germinate, when they should be tilted up a little at the back in favourable weather, but care is always taken to keep the sashes close in the case of cold winds, and to cover them over with mats or litter in the event of frost. As they advance they may be treated more hardily, but judiciously, judging according to the weather. Ater the middle of May, when all fear of frost has passed, the sashes are entirely drawn off throughout the day, if fine, and, as a rule, replaced at night. Beans are commonly picked from frames about the second or third week in June, or about three weeks sooner than the earliest border ones come into use. A few frames, too, are also frequently occupied by French Beans sown thickly, for the purpose of transplanting from thence to the open ground, and to fill any blanks that may exist in the frames in which the sowings for fruiting therein have been made. For the first out-door planting the warmest piece of ground or border that can be spared is devoted, and the Beans are planted therein in little patches under hand-lights. The usual way is, about the first week in April, to draw lines 3 ft. apart across the border, and others 2^ feet asunder lengthways, and upon the middle of every little square thus marked place an ordi- nary hand-light, under which plant eight French Beans ; but they must have been pretty well hardened off previously. If there be not sufficient hand-lights for the whole space to be planted, use half-bushel vegetable baskets, which invert over the plants ; and, as they are so open to the wind, they should be covered for a time with mats. As soon as the Beans have got a good hold of the soil and begun to grow, their protection may be removed. Great care must be exercised with hand- light Beans, otherwise they are a deceptive crop, and some- times die off altogether, especially when nursed too tenderly and changed too suddenly, if the ground be cold and wet, and their top covering insufficient and permeable to frosty winds. Outdoor Crops.— The first outdoor crop is usually trans- planted thence from the frames, and the warmest possible position is selected for this purpose ; the real time for so doing entirely depends on the state of the weather and nature of the ground. If the weather be fine, the soil moderately dry and light, and the position warm and sheltered, the plants are 146 THE GARDEN. [Aug 5. 1876. commonly transplanted during the first fortnight of April, but if otherwise, they are delayed a little later. Early French Beans are planted on a south border in front of a wall or thick hedge if possible, which is dug over, and lined off in cross- rows at 18 in. apart, drawing the lines in the form of seed- furrows with a hoe. Herein are planted, 5 in. asunder in the row, near the middle of April, Beans raised in frames ; they are earthed up in due time, and, if the weather bo favourable, come into bearing a fortnight or three weeks after those grown ill frames. Some growers erect barricades of mats in an up- right position to stakes driven into the earth, and placed to the windward side of the borders ; and they also surround frames containing them, but not covered with sashes, with the same protection to ward ofi cold and frosty winds, that are always detrimental to this crop. Sowing begins out-of-doors some time during the first fortnight in April, just as the state of the weather and soil permits, and the warmest available position is selected for the purpose. If the ground be free from all other crops at the time of sowing, there is more need for a sheltered place than if it were cropped. In sowing, the lines are drawn at 2 ft., 25 ft., and sometimes at 3 ft. apart, and the seeds planted about 4 in. or 5 in. asunder. The earliest crop is generally sown on empty ground, otherwise in drills drawn between lines of Cauliflowers, Cabbages, or Lettuces. These crops, instead of being injurious to the French Beans when they appear above ground, are simply beneficial to them, inasmuch as they protect the tender Beans from cold winds until the Beans have gained some strength and the weather becomes mild and warm, by which time the bulk of the Cauliflowers will have been removed for market. Even then, however, the French Beans do not get all the space to themselves, for no sooner is the earth cleared of the other crop than it is loosened a little between every alter- nate line, and those spaces replanted with Lettuces or Brussels Sprouts. Thus one space contains another catch crop while the other is empty ; and, by means of having this empty space to walk in, the gatherers can pick two lines of Beans, one on either side of the empty alley, and never disturb the other crops in the alternate alleys. Should the French Beans have come up well, and bo nearly ready for picking before the first occupants of the soil are entirely removed, the alleys are not cropped again until the Beans become exhausted. The drills for sowing are drawn in the morning of a fine day and left until the afternoon, when the seed is sown and some earth drawn over them. The first main sowing is made on the open field about the end of the second or third week in April, under the same circumstances as that already mentioned, or the field may have been previously planted out with Cos Lettuces in lines 12 in., 15 in., or 18 in. apart; between every two lines of these would be sown one of Beans, for which the rows are not drawn to a line but merely done so by guesswork. FiKST Crop Failures. — Many failures of the first crop take place if sown too early, especially in the case of cold and wet soils. Indeed, in a market garden at Hammersmith about an acre and a half of good ground had been sown about the end of March, in a promising season, with French Beans at 2 ft. apart, the grower being determined to bo carl}'. All seemed to prosper for eight daj's, and the seeds had swollen well, ■when cold weather set in and the entire crop was lost ; but the ground was immediately planted with Walcheren Broccoli, so the loss after all was not so great. Succcssional sowings are made every fortnight or three weeks, until the end of June, by some growers, but most of the large growers sow their French Beans about the 8th and 20th of April, llio first and last week in May, and the first week in July, the Scarlet Kunners occupying the interval. The last sowing consists chiefly of the Negro, and just yields a good crop of yotng and fine pods before being destroyed by irost; whereas, were they sown a fortnight later, thcj' would be apt to be nipped when coming into bloom. French Beans are likewise sown along both sides of Asparagus ridges containing two or more rows in April, in single rows, about G ft. or 8 ft. apart, with Custard Marrows grown between them ; and in rows '6 ft. apart, with two rows of Shallots or Onions occupying the intervening alleys. Some growers sow late crops in rows 4 ft. apart, and plant two rows of Colcworts in every intervening alley. Before the seeds appear the soil immediately over the seeds is gone over and slightly loosened with an iron-toothed rake so as to permit of an easy egress of the seedlings. When sown in bare fields, even though Lettuces be planted amongst them, a little ridge of soil is frequently drawn to the north or wind- ward side of them as an additional protection from cold winds. Whilst the plants are growing they are rigidly attended to as regards keeping clean and hoeing the soil, and when they reach 4 in. in lieight they are earthed up a little. The catch crops, too, are cleared away as soon as they are ready, in order to give the French Beans every opportunity of a healthy development, as they are reckoned a very remunerative crop. Those grown in frames come into bearing early in June, jusc according to how they are treated, and last in good picking condiiiou for si.x weeks, and those in warm borders begin to fruit in the last week of June or first week in July, and continue to yield a fair crop for nearly two mouths in a moderately moist season if kept closelj' picked. The first main crop immediately follows the border ones, and as a rule lasts the longest. Drought makes them short-lived sometimes, but in rich soils and warm, moist seasons the yield is so heavy that it is scarcely possible to pick them as quickly as they grow. Drought, too, induces red spider, with which large fields are sometimes completely overrun, and although this pest is very prejudicial to the health and longevity of the crop, there is no remedy for it. The Beans are gathered by women in baskets, which, when full, they carry on their heads to the ends of the rows, there to leave them to be carted home, where they are washed to remove the grit. They are then packed into round, half-bushel vegetable baskets, which are covered with Rhubarb leaves fastened down with withies, and piled one above another on the waggons that convey them to market three times a week. 1 he market gardeners, as a rule, save their own seeds, and a piece of the first or second main sowing is generally selected for this purpose. The plants in the rows to be saved for seeds are first subjected to two or three pickings for market, then they are left untouched until they are fully ripe, when they are pulled up by the roots, tied into little bundles, and slung in pairs across a fence or rail to drj'. Sometimes, too, the haulms are spread over sashes to dry, and in the event of wet weather they are strewed under some spare sashes where thay get well dried without receiving any of the r.am; they are sometimes spread out over a series of sashes resting on frames, and other sashes laid over them again, and tilted up at back and front so as to permit of a free current of air, where they dry readily. They are then safely housed, and during wintry weather are thrashed, cleaned, and stored in rough brown paper or canvas bags, or placed in drawers, or the corner of a loft, until sowing time arrives. S. rOTATO TRIALS IN NOTTINGHAMSHIRE. This year I have tried the following eix varieties, viz. : — (1) Carter's Perfection; (2) Brezee's Chm.nx; (3) Lady Paget; (4) Peach. blossom ; (5) Vermont Beauty ; (fi) Improvod Lemon Kidney. 1 (Car. ter'a Perfection) is a first early, half-round Potato, bright in tho skin, moderately prolific, and has shown such good qnalitica that it will bo tried again. No. 2 (Brezee's Climax) is apparently an improved Biezee's Prolific, and not particularly good ; Brezee's Prolific, thongh strong to all appearance, is not so in reality, for it istlio very first to become affected by disease, and one on which disease makes the saddest havoc. In this dry and eo far discaeeless summer I have found tho blight amongst Prolifica, and not at all amongst any of my other varieties. No. 3 (Lady Paget). — Tho tri.il of this was oat short by an accident. No. 4 (Peach. blossom). — A round, second early Potato, of good appearance ; it has pink eyes, smooth skin, ia fairly prolific, and of good size ; this will bo tried again more exten. sively. No. 5 (Vermont Beauty). — Worthless; tops 3 ft. G in. high, and at bottom only four or five small tubers, red, and not at all inviting. No. G (Improved Lemon Kidney). — An excellent firstearly, of good size, not quite so early as Mona's Pride, but of better quality and better flesh (a great consideration with some people), grown very extensively, I understand, in the Morccambe Bay district to supply the early markets of that neighbourhood. This has been the extent of my trial this year. My usual stock Potatoes are — For the very first crop a variety called " Fifty Dollars," a round good cropper (for an early variety), and fair on the table; Mona'a Pride, a very good cropper, and gccd on eomo Eoils (ntt tn all); CrjEtal Palace Kidney, a Aug. 5, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 147 desoondant of the old Lap^fcoae Kidney, bountiful but delicate ; excellent on the table ; Daintree's New Kidney, another descendant of the Lapstone, but without the Ci-ystal Palace's bad habit of grow, ing again when just ripe, and when showers come ; delicate, unsur. passable as an eating Potato. The Albany Kidney, which used to be such a popular variety hereabouts, has nearly disappeared. Mona'a Pride, Hyatt's Aahleaf, and Rivers's Eoyal Ashleaf have driven it out of the field. It is early and good, but a small cropper, and nowadays we must have quantity as well as quality. — N. KEW GARDENS. The following extracts are taken from the Directors' Report on the progress and condition of these gardens during the year 1875 : — The number of visitors to the Gardens exhibits a diminution compared with that of the two previous years ; while there has been an increase of 3-1,621 visitors on week days, there has been a falling off of 56,04.5 visitors on Sundays, producing a net diminution of 21,421. On August 2 the Gardens were visited by 61,133 persons, the largest number which has been recorded for any one day. The whole of the collections of plants in tubs and pots in the centre and wings of the Palm house have been re-arranged, with the view of removing dupli- cates and overgrown plants, so as to give more space and light to other plants better worth cultivating. By this means the magnificent Bpecimens of Cycads and Screw Pines, which were more or less concealed by less interesting plants in front of them, have been brought into greater prominence. The Palms in the four side com- partments of the centre of the building are now arranged, as far as possible, geographically. During the ensuing spring further great changes will be necessitated, in consequence of many of the Palms which have been planted out in the beds having reached the full height attainable in their present position. These will have to be out down, and others transplanted, or removed from tubs, to take their places. In the Report for 1871 it was stated that the boilers of the Palm house would not last much longer, and that when they did give way it would be advisable that a more economical apparatus should be introduced into the building. For this the time has now arrived ; five of the existing boilers are from sixteen to seventeen years old, and are box-boilers of a very old-fashioned constrnction. The remaining six are " improved saddles," and have been put in during the last three years. Instead of replacing any more boilers as they give way, the whole heating arrangements should be put upon a different plan. In place of eleven boilers warming different sections of the house, four large saddle-boilers of the type now in nso in largo horticultural establishments would probably give a more satisfactory result. The separate systems of pipes would, in this case, need to be combined on the " universal flow and return " principle, an arrangement which would secure a much more uniform distribution of heat. The process of replanting and the attendant labour of clearing the young plantations in the arboretum (in the pleasure grounds) continue to absorb a great deal of labour. The more these grounds become transformed from their original forest features to those of lawn and park, the more attention do both old and young trees require. The crowds of visitors are now so great that it is no longer possible to leave the Grass unmown and allow the leaves to lie in autumn j the consequence is that the lawn Grass, overlying, as it does, a sterile soil, prevents the rain from penetrating further than its own roots, absorbs and exhales it in the heat of the day, depriving the subjacent root-feeders of the trees, whether young or old, of moisture. It has hence become necessary to keep the ground of plantations open and clear of weeds till the trees are fully established, and to remove the turf over the roots of trees that are planted singly. Meanwhile, many old trees die, and the proportion of these to those remaining of the original plantation increases annually. It has been found necessary to re. move the noble row of old Elms that stood by the river-side at the back of the old palace wall. One of these having been blown down during the winter, it was found that it had no adequate roots, and was mainly supported in its erect position by about 5 ft. of ballast that had been used to raise the level of the road ; an examination of the others showed that a very heavy gale might prostrate the whole and cause immense damage. It was, therefore, decided to remove them at once and replace them by younger trees. This has been done, and, in addition, a row parallel to them has been planted on the oppo- site side of the path. The rough ground between the Deodar avenue and the Richmond Road, in which was the old gravel. pit, was devoted to the collection of shrubby Polypetalfe (Thalamiflorse). Prior to its re-arrangement and extension, this portion of the pleasure grounds has been converted into an undulating depression, which, with its bounding and included eminences, occupies an area of about three acres. Beds 6 ft. wide and 500 yards in extent have been made in it, and filled with good soil for the collection of Clematis, Magnolia, Barberis, Cistns, Helianthemum, Hypericum, Hibiscus, and allied plants. The ground behind the beds has been trenched and dressed with rotten leaves for the reception of plantations of shrubs and trees. It is farther intended to plant Evergreen Oaks, Cedars, and other ornamental trees in suitable positions on the undulations that skirt the area. The dead and dying trees have been removed from au area 100 yards in length skirting the boundary wall in the Rich, mond Road, and the ground levelled and trenched for replanting. This has been a most laborious operation, the roots of the Limes, Beeches, and Elms forming in the sandy soil, far below the surface, dense interlacements, which required to be cat through in every direction before they could be removed. On the opposite side of the path, between the Douglas Spar mound and Ruined Arch, beds have been made for the reception of the collection of Vitis, Rhamnus, Eaonymus, Celastrus, and allied genera. As regards the interchange of plants and seeds, the receipts during the past year have been 7326 plants of all kinds, and 2811 packages of seeds from 233 con. tributors. The Liberian Coffee has been largely distributed, and has now been sent with uniform success (except in the case of Queens- land and Grenada) to all the Coffee-growing countries, colonial or foreign, with which Kew is in correspondence. The Eucalyptus globulus, which has been so largely distributed on account of its supposed prophylactic virtues, will probably turn out to be extremely useful for its timber in countries not too hot for its growth. On the Neilgherries, where Australian trees have been largely introduced, one of the most valuable, the Acacia melanoxylon, proves to be all but valueless, owing to the ravages of various Loranthaoeous para- sites. The Eacalyptus globulus is, however, reported by Dr. Bidie to entirely escape their attacks. He attributes this immunity to the " deciduous bark, the seeds (of the parasite) thereby being dis- lodged before they can germinate and gain a hold." The production of different kinds of Caoutchouc in India continues to engage the attention of the India Office and of this establishment. One fact in connection with it, which seems to require very careful consideration, has been pointed out by Mr. Mann in his report on the Caoutchouo plantations in Assam. It is found that although the Picus elastica will grow with undiminished rapidity and luxuriance in situations remote from the hills, it fails to yield Caoutchouo. Mr. Mann con. eludes that no greater mistake could be made than to start planta. tions of Picas elastica in any part of Bengal. It appears, therefore, judging from this case, that conditions which may ensure the sue cessful growth of Caontchoucyielding trees may not be sufficient to determine their producing Caoutchouc. The India-rubber of Para (Hevea brasiliensis) has already been introduced into India. It proves to be capable of easy propagation at Kew by cuttings. GARDEN PARTIES. The now favourite mode of entertaining lai-ge parties in private gardens, adopted even by Royalty, would appear to be but of recent origin in England. In the "Pictorial Calendar of the Seasons," Mary Howitt says:— " Speaking of the garden at North End House, Twickenham, we are reminded of the social enjoyment which it is made to furnish in the season of its Roses, when Mr. Bohn's numerous friends assemble at a floral fete. Taking such an entertainment as a type of what a garden party should be, we would recommend beautiful flower gardens to all the fortunate possessors of them as the most noble reception-rooms for even hundreds of guests, who amid the beauties of the summer garden, and in the open air, appear to great advantage, and physically and men- tally are brought into harmony with the scene. Such fetes are refreshing and exhilarating, and might he advantageously introduced among persons of moderate fortune, who, in well-kept and pleasant gardens, might enter, tain their friends without any extraordinary expense, much more agree ably than within their houses, where the rooms are often small, and, especially in the summer season, unfit for the accommodation of nume- rous guests." I have had the pleasure of being present at one of Mr, Bohn's recent garden fetes, for which his grounds are so admirably adapted, aud I can heartily confirm Mary Hewitt's emphatic praise of them, and I can join in her recommendation, which, however, has been too extensively followed to be longer needed. Mr. Bohn originally acquired a taste for garden parties in Germany, where, in his early years, he used to he invited to them, both in summer aud in autumn, and especially to a Rose garden fete in the neighbourhood of Leipzig. He gave his first fete in June, 1852, and has since repeated it annually, but now, instead of standing all but alone as he used to do, he finds it scarcely possible to hit upon a day on which he has not several competitors within his own immediate circle. With reference, however, to the previous absence of garden fetes, it has to be borne in mind that five-and-twenty years ago the floral suburbs of London had not become so readily accessible by rail as they now are ; and the uncertainty of the English climate was an unfailing drawback to out-door attractions, as the old Horticultural Society at their Chiswick Shows had reason to deplore. But of late years tents of all kinds are so amply provided by the^ Edgingtons and others, that little apprehension is now entertained in respect to the weather. H. 148 THE aARDEN. [Atjo. S, 1876. SOCIETIES AND EXHIBITIONS. KOTAL HORTICULTUEAL SOCIETY. On TuesJay last a meeting of the holders of tlie debentures of this Society was held in tbe Council room, South Kensington, "to receive a Btateracnt from the president as to the financial position of the Society." Lord Aberdai-e, the president, said the meeting had been called in order to put the debenture holders in a position to judge, at the earliest possible moment, of the state of affairs. The sum advanced by the debenture holders, imder the agreement entered into between the Koyal Commis- sioners of the Exhibition of 1851 and the Eoyal Horticultural Society, ■was £50,000, bearing interest at £5 per cent., which was secured— so far as such an expression might be used— out of the receipts of the Society, after fully providing for maintaining the gardens in sufficient repair for their shows, and for all necessary and proper expenses of the Society. As for the capital, its repayment was provided for as follows :— After paying necessary repairs and expenses, the debenture interest, and the rent of the gardens to the Commissioners— £2145 a year— they were bound to set aside three-fifths of any remaining receipts towards the capital debt. The lease granted by the Commissioners began in 1801, andwould terminate in 1892. ^ If the Society fulfilled all the conditions of the lease, and the Commissioners declined to renew it, the latter were bound to pay half of the debenture debt. Unfortunately, he was unable to hold out any pros- pect of repaying the capital from either of these sources. No sum applicable to repayment of capital had ever been realised out of the receipts by the Society, except in two years, when the sum of £300 was so applied. As to other sources of repayment, he was unable to hold out to them any hope that the conditions of the lease would be so fulfilled as to put the debenture holders in a position to claim half of their capital from the Commissioners. Some discussion followed the president's address, and Mr. G. Eeay proposed the appointment of a committee of debenture holders for the purpose of protecting their interests and enter- ing into communication with the Council of the Society and the Commis- sioners of 1851 for that purpose. Dr. Martyn seconded the resolution, which was carried. General Mackinnon then moved the following resolu- tion :— " That the committee consist of seven members, viz-, Mr. G. Eeay, Dr. Martyn, and Mr. T. N. Doughty, who shall have power to choose the remaming four members." The resolution was carried, and the proceed- ings then closed in the usual manner. Ordinary Meeting, August 3. At this meeting, though a small one, several interesting novelties were exhibited, and here let us remark that although the Society should be driven to take up its abode wholly at Chiswick— a thing at present not improbable— let us hope that these interesting and instructive meetings may not be discontinued. Among the plants shown on this occasion the following First Class Certificates were awarded : — Begonia, Davisi (Teitch). — This is a dwarf-growing species, and one which is likely soon to become popular as a decorative plant. Its leaves are cordate, of a pale or bluish -green colour, and hairy on both surfaces. The flowers are borne in threes at the apex of a crimson scape, 3 in. to 8 in. in height, and the flowers themselves measure about 2 in. across, and are of a vivid orange-scarlet colour. The female flowers are rather smaller than the male flowers, but are equally vivid in colour. Although one of the smallest of all Begonias, this well deserves culture as one of the best of them. Greenhonae Rhododendron, Maiden's Blush (Veitch).— This 13 a very beautiful [variety of tho R. .iavanico-jasminillorum group, and bears soft blu.ih or rosy flowers flushed with lemon-yellow in the throat. Tlio flowers are borne in clusters at the apices of tho branches, surrounded by bright green glossy leaves. It is a most desirable decora, tivo plant. Bourbon Rose, Queen of Bedders (Noble).— This is a vigorous and dense-habited, free-flowering variety, raised by Mr. C. Noble, of Sun- ningdalo, from seed of Sir Joseph Paxton. It bears full, vivid crimson flowers in dense, terminal clusters, and will bo of great value as a bedding Rose, or for planting in shrubbery borders, or wherever space can be spared for it. Godetia, Lady Albemarle (Daniels).— This is a very effective, dwarf, fre(3-floweriiig plant, rai.scd by Messrs. Daniels Brothers, of Nor- wich. It is a hardy annual which grows from 0 in. to 15 in. in height, and bears glowing earniino flowers 8h(jt with lilac ; as a pot plant it is most edectivo. It is said to bo a seedling of the fourth generation from G. VVhitnoyi, crossed with the pollen of G. Lindleyana ; but it is far superior to cither of its parents as a summer-flowering, decorative plant. Hollyhock, Virgin Queen (Chatcr). — A full, creamy-white floiyer, rather rougli in outline, but well worth a place as a distinct variety. Now thai; tho virulent disease which attacked Hollyhocks seems in a measure to have been " stamped out," let us hope that these stately flowers may again become popular. Double-white Zonal Pelargonium, Madame A. Baltet (Lemoine).— (V very good and distinct variety, having palo green leaves and nearly pure white doulilo flowers, borne in compact trusses well above llio foliage. It is one of tho best sent, amongst others, by U. Lomoiue to (Jhiswjck for trial. Nectarine, Welbeck Seedling (Tillery).— This is a very useful and distinct fruit, raised at Welbeck by Mr. Tillery. It is of average size, and is highly coloured, the flavoui being rich and juicy, like that of tho Elruge, which it most nearly_ resembles. It is a well-tried variety, and one which deserves a place in all gardens where Nectarines are grown. Miscellaneous Plants. — Messrs. F. & A. Smith, of Dalwich, sent a collection of double-flowered Balsams, sturdy-habited plants about 18 in. in height, the central stem being perfectly wreathed with flowers. The prevailing colours were puce, purple, salmon, rose, white, crimson, and scarlet. These plants had apparently been lifted from tho open ground. Mr. W. 11. Michael, of Cholmeley Park, Uighgate, showed a collection of Tydreas and Gloxinias in excellent condition, and a plant of the old long-tubed Dolichodeira (Gloxinia) tubidoi"a came from the Society*s garden at Chiswick, together with well-grown specimens of Cissus dis- color and Hydrangea japonicavariegata. Mr. Osman, of the Sutton Metro- politan Schools, contributed a seedling Gloxinia named Empress of India, a kind which has large and shapely white flowers, with a crimson throat. Mr. G. E. Elliot, Bradford Street, Huddersfield, furnished two dwarf well-grown crimson Cockscombs, to which a cuUural commendation was awarded. Mr. K. Dean exhibited several dwarf, free-flowering — Blue Lobelias, and a box of bright, well-formed Balsam flowers. Mr. Ernest Bcnary, of Erfurt, contributed a dwarf pyramidal stock named Blue Celeste, a kind not so effective as Mauve Queen. A collection of double Zonal Pelargoniums came from Mr. H. Cannell, of the Nurseries, Swan- ley, Kent ; among these Meteor Flag (Turner), scarlet ; Konig Albert; (Lcibmann), mauve ; ivy-leaf M. Buckler (Lemoine), crimson nosegay; Figaro (Lemoine), bright salmon ; and Amelia Baltet (Lemoine), white ; were the best. The sweet-scented hardy white-flowered Olearia Haastii, alluded to at page 125, came from Messrs. Veitch and Sons. Mr. W. Chatcr, of the Nurseries, Saffron Walden, sent two attractive stands of double Hollyhocks. Among the varieties which they contained were — Pink Queen, a delicate rosy variety of good form ; Vesuvius, crimson ; Sunset, rosy salmon ; Sultan, dark mulberry-purple ; Her Majesty, bright salmon-rose ; Supreme, blush ; Peri, sulphur-white ; lauthe, carmine ; King, bright salmon ; Champion, dark red ; and La Grande, delicate rose. Mr. J. S. Maw showed two well-grown speci- mens of tuberous-rooted Begonias, namely, Eosalind, a delicate rosy form ; and Ophelia, a white variety, flushed with rosy salmon. Mr. Tomkins, nurseryman. Shard Hill, Birmingham, furnished two plants of the double salmon-flowered, golden-leaved, tricolor Pelargonium Miss Eyland, and also a plant of the same which had reverted to a green-leaved dark-zoned state. Fruit and Vegetables. — Mr. Tillery, of Welbeck, sent, in addi- tion to specimens of the Welbeck Seedling Nectarine, Early Grosse Mignonne Peaches in excellent condition, from a glass-covered, nnheated wall. Mr. Edmund Bland, Ci-anbourne Court, furnished two dishes of Victoria or Elruge Nectarines, also three good clusters of Black Ham- burgh Grapes. A dish of very fine Red Currants came from the Society's Garden at Chiswick,!the clusters of fruit being fully 4 in. in length. Mr. D. D. Hughes, Kinmel Gardens, Abergele, N. Wales, sent a green-fleshed seedling Melon of excellent flavour. Mr. Gilbert, of Burghley, showed three dishes of Tomatoes, the best of which wero excellent specimens of 'Jackson's, a full, heavy, and highly-coloured fruit. NOTES AND QUESTIONS-VARIOUS. Buddleia intermedia.— The beautiful hybrid, Buddloia mtermodia, a croes between B. curviflora and B. Lindleyana, ia now Bhowing bloom with mo for the first time. It seems to be of extremely quick growth end vigorous habit, and is also said tn be very free-blooming ; it is well figured in the number of the '* Revue Horticolo " for April 16, 1873, and is n shrub worthy of being included in any collection. I have also a new Kscallonia, named stenopetala alba, now showing bloom for the first time. — W. E. Gomblktox. UTcmenclature of Trees.— Mr. Barron, whose name is closely associated wiih evergreens, says that*' in England we have been taught that the best name is one somewhat doscriptivo of the plant." In America wo hold that the best name is the one which was given with the first description in a botanical work, and wo leave to tho one authorised to name it all consideration regarding the fir.ness of things. By foUowing this law of priority wo avoid all wi-angling about the proper name. — T. Mekiiam. Skimmia japonica on a North "Wall.— When in good health, few beny- bcaring plants are more ornamental than this, but it is seldom met with in very free growth or wcU-berried. A few years ago I bad occasion to move ft plant of it from off a south wall, where it looked yellowish and sickly. It was planted on a north wall, which tho sun never reaches, except for a short time in the evenings at midsummer. Hero it has improved wonderfully in general health, is continually loaded with large brilliant clusters of berries, the crop of two years being in perfection at the same time. Evidently this shrub, like the Camellia, thrives best out of the reach of bright sun, and in a cool, moist position.—" Tho Gardener." Variability of the Spruce Fir.— With the exception, perhaps, of the Thorn Acacia, the common Sprnre Fir pro^ onts a greater rango of variation than any other tree we (" Gardeners' Cbronicle ") can call to niind. from a dwarf, dense hush to a lofty tree. At a late meeting of tho Cerhn Botanical Society Mr. iiraun exhibited and described a series of cones of wild forms of states of tho Spruce found in Germany. Just below tho upper tree limit of the Brockon a dwarf variety, 8 to 10 ft. high, grows and bears cones li to 2 in, long, not unlike those of Picea nigra. Tho longest, on tho other hand, in thia collection are from "i to 8 in- There is also an equal diversity in the length of the loaves, but this exists in no definite relation to the length of the cones. The seeds vary from about forty to fifty-eight iu tho smallost concs, to about •7a of au iuch in tho lor^fcst coucs. THE GARDEN. 149 SATXJKDAT, ATTaiTST 12. 1878. " This is en art Which docs mend Nature : change it rather : bat Thb Aht iisele is Natubb," — Shakeyaeare, MR. OLMSTED ON LA.NDSCAPB GAEDENING. To THE Editor or " The Gakden." — I am gratified to have the good opinion which led you to think me the author of an article in the " Gardeners' Monthly," quoted in The Garden of July 1, and which you pleasantly make the occasion for showing how you and I, from our different points of yiew, may observe a subject of common interest. You rightly assume that I have been placed by circumstances in a position to regard the relation between the professions of landscape gardening and architecture with more than usual interest. I must confess, however, that as far as this relation has a bearing on the ciuestion of professional education, I yet stand a little too much in a waiting and enquiring attitude to write upon it with satis- faction. Still if you care to know my view of the subject, you are entitled to have an authentic i-eport of it, and so far as I can give you this, I will do so with pleasure. It has long been a practice to introduce temples, pagodas, pavilions, " ruins," bridges, arches, obelisks, and other monuments, in works of landscape gardening, not 'alone where they were required by considerations of health and convenience, but with a view to give interest, character, and finish to the scenes in which they appear. In the war on this practice which you are leading, I claim to be with you. With^ perhaps, a single justifiable exception, no architectural object has ever yet been introduced in any work of landscape garden- ing with my consent which was not first devised with a view to some other purpose than of display or effect in the landscape;^ But what are the grounds of objection to the practice ? To find and substantiate them, I think it is necessary to see, more clearly than most intelligent men seem ready to do, in what the essence of landscape gardening consists. Loudon, after making an extended study of the manner in which the term is used by a series of authors, says (§ 7181, Ency. of Gard.) of a simple example : — "All the parts unite in forming awhole which^ the eye can comprehend at once and examine without distrac- tion. Were this principle not prevalent, the groups of trees, the lake, and the building would only please when considered separately, and the result wculd be as poor a production as a machine, the wheels of which are accurately finished and nicely polished, but which do not act iu concert so as to effect the intended movement." The objection, then, to monumental and architectural objects in works of landscape gardening is this, that, as a rule, they are not adapted to contribute to any concerted effect, but are- likely to demand attention to themselves in particular, dis- tracting the mind from the cantemplation of the landscape as such, and disturbing its suggestions to the imagination. But the object of producing an effect on the imagination being to make the life of man more agreeable, war on architectural objects may be carried too far whenever the objects which it removes are likely to add more to the satisfaction of life than they deducted from it by their injury to the landscape. Where the number or extent of artificial objects thus called for is large as compared with the ground to be operated upon, landscape gardening, properly speaking, is out of place; gardening material should then be made to support, strengthen, and aggrandise architectural design. But there are intermediate cases where the landscape gardener, as siich, will neither retire from the field nor refuse to yield anything of landscape effect to convenience. If, in laying out a ground which is to be used by a hundred thousand people of all classes, we seek to have no more numerous or more substantial artificial structures than we should if it were to be used only by a quiet, private family and its guests, we shall overreach our- selves. It is better that the ultimate special requirements of the' situation should be foreseen from the outset, that provisions for them should bo ample, that the necessary structures, how- ever inconspicuously they may be placed, should be substantial, and their real character not only undisguised but artistically manifested, and that, finally, they should become as far as possible (preserving the above conditions) modest, harmonious, and consistent elements of a general landscape design, in which no more ambitious landscape motives are to be admitted than^ will allow them to be so assimilated. In such cases it is obvious that the architect would work with reference to the same gene- ral idea as the gardener, and should take pride and pleasure in subordinating his art to it. It follows that no architect is perfectly fit tor the duty who can not enter heartily into the spirit of a general design embodying landscape considerations ; considerations, for example, of the modelling of ground-surface and of the disposition of foliage, as to density and colour and shade and sky-line. It is to be said that architects are often shamefully ignorant in this respect, and I have no doubt that they are sometimes somewhat conceited and presumptuous in their ignorance. But we do not, as a rule, find that men trained as shoemakers have a propensity to chequer their hats with leather, nor men trained as hatters to slash their boots with felt ; and I do not believe that it is a necessary result of properly educating an architect that he should be irresistibly disposed to patch a lawn with bricks and mortar. Whenever such a mania manifests itself, we may be sure it sig--' nifies too crude, not too refined a professional training. But our present business is rather with the question of the education of landscape gardeners than of architects. Let me ask then, if it be a just cause of reproach to an architect that he cannot comprehend, and therefore cannot avoid overdo- ing his proper part in a landscape design, whether it is not equally true that the landscape gardener, who cannot upon- occasion work hand-in-hand with the architect cheerfully, loy- ally, and with fore-reaching sympathy, is unqualified for his duty .•' Practical occasion for this close alliance of the two professions is not uncommon ; indeed, in the greater number of cases where either is called in, there is to be a building or group of buildings, the site, aspect, eleva- tion and outline of which cannot be properly determined without au understanding as to how the adjoining grounds are to bo managed ; as to whore an approach is to be laid, as to where trees are to close the view and lawns open it, as to where the surface is to be gentle and quiet, and as to where it is to be abrupt, broken, and picturesque. On the other hand, it is equally impossible to properly design the walks and drives, the slopes, lawns and foliage, without regard to the position, the height, the breadth, the openings, the sky-lines, and even the decorative details of the buildings. There is then, properly, no distinctive field of general design for each profession ; there is only a distinctive field of operations under the general design, the landscape gardener being responsible in the outlying parts of that of which the special field of the architect is the centre. The house comes first, because shelter is the first necessity, and it is only with increasing wealth and refinement that the garden part grows out of it. In the familiar aphorism of Lord Bacon, the art of pleasure- gardening is thus regarded as a higher development of the art of architecture; and, in fact, if we look to the origin of the word we shall find that an art worker in soils and living plants is as accurately an architect as one who is confined to brick and mortar. But yoii suggest that if the landscape gardener interests himself in architecture and other fine arts, it will be likely to overmuch distract his mind from another class of interests which, if not essentially, are yet closely connected with landscape gardening, such, for example, as those of tropical botany and exotic horticulture. The range of study which is called for in these is already so greatly extended that simply to call by name the various plants that are to be found under glass in England, a man must have gone through an amount of special mental discipline which would have been appalling to a gardener of fifty years ago. And yet this range is rapidly enlarging, and no one can guess where it will end. If, then, a young man, in addition to the study necessary to th<5^ practice of landscape gardening pure and simple, is to make himself master of tropical botany and exotic horticulture, and a peifect adept in all other branches of botany, I question if there will not come in time another danger to the art of more gravity than that which I am disposed to apprehend exists in its disalliance with architecture. 150 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 12, 1876. To recognise w}iat I mean, please ask yourselE what is the one sure product -wliich any professional education in land- scape gardening must bo adapted to cultivate ? It surely is-N that of a special sensibility to the characteristic charms of broad, simple, c(uiet landscape compositions, united Trith a power of analysing these charms, and of conceiving how they may be reproduced through other compositions adapted to different topographical circumstances and different requirements of con- venience ; and this united again with a power of organising and directing means through which, after many years, these conceptious may be realised. In order to acquire such a wide" range of information and of skill as will before long evidently be required of a gardener professing to be equipped at all points, a man of ordinary abilities must begin young, and must for some years be thoroughly absorbed in his work. This cannot occur without a strong tendency to establish a propen- sity to regard trees and plants from mental points of view quite different from those in which alone they ai'e seen in landscape gardening ; that is to say, quite different from points of view in which the special qualities of each are to be of interest only as they favourably aifect broad harmonies of landscape. It appears to me that the likeness of the materials and processes of botanical and exotic garden- ing to those of landscape gardening, instead of being an advantage in this respect, really establishes an insidious danger greater than that which you apprehend from an interest in an art dealing with such different materials and processes as that of architecture. It is a matter of history that the revolution in which landscape gardening originated was practically led more than by any other man by one (his monument should be in Westminster Abbey) who was edu- cated as a coach painter, grew from that to be an historical painter, from that again wandered as a student of the fine arts in general into Italy, and finally on his return started in busi- ness as an architect before making his first imperfect essay in landscape gardening. How we should now rank his more mature work, and that of his contemporaries, few of whom were gardeners bred from youth, is an interesting question, for the profitable study of which tiiere may )'et be opportunity in England. How we should rank it as an arboretum, how we should rank it with regard to brilliancy of colouring, how _ as a living museum of botany, how as an ex- hibition of the fashionable plants of the day, there can be no doubt ; but I mean what should we think of it as a work of art ? what would be its influence on ^the imagina- tion ? We know that in its day it compelled the un- bounded admiration of the most cultivated people, not only of England but of all Europe, and we may presume that if it lacked the incident and varied interest of modern work, it was not without some impressive poetical qualities. We may bo sure. I think, that the profession of landscape gardening has not since been gaining as steadily in power to affect the imagi- nation as it has gained in working material and in science. It is possible that it has lost something; and if so, I should judge from descriptions, and from a few old engravings, that it was in the qualities of breadth, consistency of expression, subordi- nation of all materials used to a general ideal simplicity, tranquillity, and repose. I do not want to give undue impor- tance to this suggestion, but it is obvious that defects with reference to these qualities are precisely what should be expected to result from an overlong absorption of mind in questions of classification and nomenclature, from an excess of interest in conservatory, winter garden, terrace garden, and bedding-out ell'ects, and from the resulting necessity of a forced retreat from the border grounds of allied arts and pro- fessions. My allr.f cf/o,i{ you please, of the " Gardeners' Monthly " apparently regards the title of landscape architect as one in ■which an assumption of superiority is affected toward those who beforetimo have been called landscape gardeners. I do not see tho assumption, but to remove the suspicion, however it arises, in at least one case, I will mention that tho word architect, as applied to the manager of a public work, of whicli landscape gardening should be the chief element, was here in America adopted directly from tho French, and was first fas- tened upon tho occupant of such an office, who was not an architect in the English usage of tho term, in disregard of Lis repeated remonstrances. As it is not wholly without an ety- mological propriety, as it has a certain special value in address- ing a public which, in my humble judgment, is too much rather thau too little inclined to regard landscape considerations as one thing and architectural considerations as quite another, and as it has now been fairly accepted as an intelligible term on this side of the water, I will submit to whatever reproach must follow on the other in subscribing myself, in all goodwill, Frederick Law Olsi.sted, Landscape Architect. New Yorlc. AEB HYBRIDS STERILE OR NOT ? I OUGHT before now to have thanked " B." and Mr. Max Leiclit- lin (see p. 76) for their kindly criticism of my remarks (see p. 07), and for the valuable information which they have both given upon this interesting subject. It will be remembered that in my letter at page 67, I said : — " As far as my own expe- rience goes, I have always found it to be impossible to induce a hybrid to form a union with any other plant, &c." Now, this was true enough as regarded my own experience in the matter, which has not been very great, and I am now glad to bo made aware that hybrids are not always sterile. I was of course aware when I penned my remarks (see p. 67) of the hybrid or cross-bred oi'igin of our modern Zoual Pelargoniums and other families of plants; but as regards some of them, and more particularly as regards the Pelargonium, I entertained some misgivings as to whether P. zonale and P. inquinans could justly be considered as distinct species, or as merely distinct varieties of tho same species. I have just received a letter from M. Jean Sisley, of Lyons, wherein he also culls in question my statement at page 67, and, having his permission to do so, I will give a few extracts from his letter. " You say as far as my experience goes, I have always found it to be impossible to induce a hybrid to form a uuion with any other plant, sterility appearing to be the un- varj'ing accompaniment of hybridity ; but although this'theory has been constantly put forth by botanists, I have never been disposed to accept it as a rule, because I believe with Darwin that all living beings are more or less hybrids, and that it they appear not to be disposed to follow the regular course of re- production, it is because Nature is not so anxious as we are to reproduce and perpetuate certain forms. If sterility be a check to our impatience, I do not admit it to be absolute ; and if we studied more attentively we would find that we have not hit on the proper subject for the union which is necessary for reproduction. I have had proof that hybrids are not com- pletely sterile ; last year I tried an immense number of crosses between different species of the Geraniaceas (or what are called so), and I have generally failed ; but I have now an offspring from Pelargonium peltatum Willsi roseum fertilised by a double Zonal. This plant is dwarf, the leaves somewhat like those of Zonals, but very thick, having a feel like that of leather; the flowers are single, very light rose, the upper petals striped with a darker shade. Out o£ perhaps a hundred attempts I have obtained but one seed, so that I suppose the double Zonal was the only male which suited that hybrid. The question is, then, to fiiul tho proper male." After detailing many experiments with their various results, many of them very remarkable, !^^. Sisley again says :■ — " Although wo know very little of the laws of Nature, yet, as far as my experience goes, I find that sterility is not the rule as regards hybridity." I may be allowed to add that the purport of my letter at p. 67 was principally to con- demn tho use of superfluous and absurd botanical or other terms, which tend to mystify and discourage the study of sub- jects otherwise simple and interesting in themselves. Why should wo not call things by their proper names when it is quite as easy to do so as it is to do the reverse ? As an illus- tration, why do our otherwise intelligent nurserymen in their catalogues and advertisements persist in calling Pelargoniums Geraniums, when they know this to bo incorrect P I am pleased to find that " B." agrees with mo as regards the application of tho terms hybrid and cross. And I should bo glad if this little discussion should tend in any degree to lead to a more correct and generally understood application of these as well as of other terms used in reference to hybridity. Cidford, Bury St, Edmuiuh. P. Grieve. Aug. 13. 1876.T THE GARDEN. 151 NOTES OP THE WEEK. Tvehman's Groundsel (Senecio ruLCHEn). — " Oxon " wiiteg to ns coDcerning thi3 plant recently figured in TnE Garden :—" This brilliant plant is now in bloom with me. It is 2 ft. in height ; the magenta-crimeon flowers are 3 in. across, and have yellow centres." Labelling in Hyde Park.— A very good system of labelling ia now in use in Hyde Park, the names being clearly written, and the use of numbers being almost entirely done away with. We now refer to the labels for flowers which are T-shaped, and of a good pattern. These are quite large enough for shrubs, and might well replace the hnge labels used for shrubs in Kensington Gardens. All labels for trees with a bole should be affixed to the tree at about the height of the eye, and should never bo placed in the ground. Girx OF A Park. — Lord Dartmonth has presented to the town of West Bromwich 50 acres of land at Cooper's Hill for a public park. The gift was announced recently at a meeting of the West Bromwich Improvement Commissioners, and a vote of thanks to his lordship was passed. TnE Lime Tree in London Parks. — In many parts of the London parks the ground is covered with the leaves fallen from the Linae tree. This is no unusual occurrence at this time of year, and, indeed, it may often be observed in July ; but this year, in consequence of the drought, we notice the leaves falling as if autumn liad come in parts of the parks where the trees used to retain their leaves till late ia the year. The Lime is the least suitable of all trees for towns. Fruit tor tub Philadelphia iNTEENATioNAt. ExHiEmoN. — The pomological display in connection with this Exhibition will take place from September 11th to September 16th, in a special anne-te to the Agricultural Hall. Tables and dishes will be provided free of charge, and the contributions will also be received, unpacked, and labelled by the department. The display will consist of sixteen classes, from No. 881 to No. 896. No. 881, Summer Apples ; 882, Autumn Apples ; 883, Winter Apples ; 884, Summer Pears ; 885, Autumn Pears; 886, Winter Pears ; 887, Freestone Peaches ; 888, Clingstone Peaches; 8S9, Apricots; 890, Nectarines; 891, Plums; 892, Native Grapes ; 893, Foreign Grapes ; 89i, Water Melons ; 895, Citron Melons ; 896, Tropical Plants. Intending exeibitors should apply without delay to the offices of the British Executive, 5 Craig's Court, Charing Cioss. LoNG.TUEED Lilt (Lilium neilgherrense). — Mr. Barr writes to us as follows respecting this Lily :— I send you a flower of this Lily, from which yon will see what a grand variety it is. In my expe- rience I have never seen anything so fine in the longiflornm group, and, judging from appearances, I should say that it will be hardy. It is a free and robust grower. I am informed by my Indian corre- spondent that it produces from five to seven flowers on a stem, and that it varies in colour from pure white to pale yellow, and that sometimes even it has a tinge of pink in it. Considering that the bulbs were imported last January, and were potted several in a pot for the sake of preservation more than for growth, it may be fairly assumed that the flower will attain larger dimensions than the one sent. I may mention that it is of a freer growth than any of the longiBorum group which I possess. As a conservatory Lily it is matchless. It is remarkable that so fine a Lily was not introduced long ago ; until this year it is doobtful if it has been flowered half- a-dozen times even in Europe. I did not measure the flower sent to you, but the same day I cut one which measured 9 in. I may add that it possesses an agreeable fragrance. The Potato Crop. — In Loudon markets Potatoes are fetching nearly double the price realised at this time last year, even though there bo not the slightest evidence of disease. This comparative deamess arises entirely from the deficiency of the crop, the result of the summer's drought. All the first and second early kinds are as a rule small, and althongh in some favoured soils and localities where, perhaps, rain is rather an evil than otherwise, the crop is good, yet this exception is a very limited one. In the large gardens and Potato fields surrounding the metropolis the crop is comparatively small, but the greatly increased price somewhat recoups the grower, the consumer being the sufferer. The price is still farther enhanced by the appearance of the late crops, which althougb vigorous enough in the haulm are fast growing out in such a way as to denote a very partial and inferior crop. The heaviest crops are generally lifted in seasons notable for the destructiveness of the disease, but then with size, even the smallest are capable of utilisation. This year, how- ever, the smallest form a large proportion of the whole, and they are BO small aa to be almost valueless. There is too much reoaon to fear that rains would now but add to the " growing out " rather than to the quality of the crop, — A. D. The Hail-stoem Belief Fund.— This is now organised, and an appeal for assistance is in coarse of being made to the trade and to charitably-disposed persons unconnected with it. Among the con. tributors are : — Messrs. Hurst and Son, and Messrs. Veitch and Sons, for £25 each; Mr. John Fraser and Mr. William Ball, ten guineas each ; and Messrs. Nutting and Sons, Jno. Wills, P. and S. Kay, B. S. Williams, E. G. Henderson and Son, H. Stroud, T. S. Ware, R. Oubridge, H. Low and Co., John Turtle, James Sweet, John Mailer, W. E. Gumbleton, and others subscribe five guineas each; there are, too, many subscribers of two guineas, as well as of smaller sums. How thoroughly destructive in its action the storm proved may be imagined from the following statement of damage sustained by one of the sufferers : " One 100-ft. span house, 15 ft. wide, nearly all the glass destroyed ; one 50. ft. house, 15 ft. wide, nearly all destroyed ; one 21-ft. house, 11 ft. wide, roof and part of back destroyed ; one 30-f t. house by 12 ft. partly destroyed and a quantity of pit lights more or less destroyed, and for the present rendered per. fectiy useless ; all which damage I estimate at not less than £60 .* Equally sad examples might be multiplied, and it is of the highest importance that pecuniary assistance be given as soon as possible, in order that the repairs may be carried out while the fine weather lasts, and farther, in sufficient time to admit of the summer propagation being gone on with. Mr. Richard Dean, Rauelagh Road, Ealing, aeo. retary to the fund, will be happy to receive subscriptioua towards it. It is computed that the sum of £4000 will be required to meet the many urgent requests for relief sent in to the committee. Mentzelia Ornata. — The Bank Holiday (August 7) is marked aaa red-letter day in my floral records by the expansion in the evening of the first flower of this beautiful plant. Raised in 1875 from seed, the young plants were wintered in a cool greenhouse, from which frost was barely excluded, and turned out after a preliminary shift in May. The plant which has just commenced flowering is about 3 ft. high, with thirteen stout branches rising nearly to a level with the central stem, all bearing several flower-buds at the extremity, and numerous undeveloped laterals. The noble flower which has just developed itself expanded about 6.30 p.m,, and was fully 5i in. in diameter, with ten spathulate p3tals of a creamy white, the alternate five being slightly smaller than the others. The centre of the flower is completely filled by a forest of stamens, which aro nearly as long as the petals, and by their number and yellow colour produce a striking efEect. To judge by the appearance of the plant the flower-bads will continue to develop themselves for at least two months to come.- The cultivation of this fine species presents no difiioulty, if I except the earliest stages of growth, during which care is requisite to preventdampingoEf, the seed.ings being somewhat succulent in their character, and the period of transplantation from the seed pot is also rather a critical one ; but where the young plants have been well established singly I have not found that they require any further attention beyond the usual routine. It is no doubt a true biennial, but that should be no objection among the cultivators of Humea elegans, Canterbury Bells, and other well-known plants of the same class. I must not omit to add that the blossoms of the Ment- zelia ornata emit a alight fragrance, but it is neither so pronounced nor so agreeable as I had been led to suppose. At the moment of penning these few lines the flower, after remaining closed throughout the day, has just opened for the second time. It may not be amiss to mention that the so-called Bartonia aurea is properly Mentzelia Lindleyi. — W. Thompson, liysioich. Lapageria from Cuttings. — M. Bause, the manager of Mr. Wills' Nursery, as Anerley, has been very successful in raising Lapa- gerias from cuttings, a fact which it is very useful to know iu the case of the yet rare white variety (L. r. albiflora). They are put in about the month of October, and are made from well-ripened wood, each cutting having either one or two leaves, and they are then put in 4S.8ized pots, about twelve in a pot. A sandy soil, made up of peat and loam, the former in good proportion, is used, and when filled the pots are put by in a shady place, and no heat is required to assist the cuttings to strike. They commence to root about the following May, and by October following they have made shoots 4 in. or so in length, and are well established. Then they are potted off, and grown on into size. The Lapageria can also be propagated by layers in the same way as Carnations ; and, in the case of good plants with several shoots, a number of them can be layered at a time ; they root in about nine months. Large plants are much more quickly made by layers, bat the advantage of propagating by cuttings is, that a greater number of plants can be obtained. — " Florist." Althffia Frolowiana. — This showy Hollyhock is now in full I>loom with mo. and its tall eteras, covered with large parti-coloured orange, or yellow and red flowers, render it. a most desirable plant at the back of a mixed border.— H, HAHPua Cbswk, Vrayton-Beauchamp Sector/, Tnng, 152 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 12, 1876. COTTAGE GARDENING. By E. HOBDAY. TuERE are degrees ia cottage gardens .and gardeners as ia other things. The town artisan, with his small holding in the suburbs, with perhaps his frame or his little greeuhoaso probably of his own construction, is of a more ambitious turn of mind, with higher aims than thoso of his rural brother. The latter directs his main attention — to use his own words — to growing material for the pot, whilst the flower borders by the cottage door are usually under the care of the wife, and in a family where all must be workoi's this division of labour gives all an equal interest in the gai'den, and adds to the pleasure derived from it. The small tradesman and the town artisan, without altogether neglecting vegetable culture, give up much of their leisure time to flowers. None but those who have mixed with them on friendly terms can tell how much this love of flowers influences their lives for good, and how vast an amount of genuine pleasure is derived from their cul- ture. Great sacrifices are often made in order to procure some new variety of any favourite class of plants, and the pleasure folt in the possession of any plants new and rare, is perhaps, greater than that experienced by the wealthy proprietor of numerous hothouses. I have had many opportunities of intercourse with cottage gardeners in various places, both in town and country, but I never yet knew one who truly loved his garden who frequented public-houses. The two are alto- gether antagonistic. AVhen a man takes up with one he loses all taste for the other. Clergymen and others who have in- iluenco with the wealthy classes, and who desire to benefit their poorer neighbours, might do much to foster and stimu- late a love for gardening. I know something of the longings of working men without gardens for a bit of land to cultivate in their leisure hours, and in this direction much good might be done. It has been said to give a man a garden to cultivate at home tends to reduce his strength, and makes him a less efiloient labourer; but I have invariably found that the man who possessed the neatest cottage, and who cultivated his garden best, was also the best and most trustworthy workman. It is the indolent, careless man — the man, in fact, who neglects his home duties, who requires the master's eye to be upon him in order to keep him at work. The aim of all wise and good men is to make the working man self-reliant and self-respecting; and although the mere fact of a man having a comfortable cottage and a good garden may not in all cases make him wiser or better, yet their possession is a great incentive to good conduct, leading to thrift and respectability. I am not an advocate for a large garden for working men ; a man in good health who does not walk more than a mile to his daily work may be able to manage profitably a qu.arter of an acre, but that should be the maximum size ; and many holdings, of course, should bo much smaller. I would rather see a small garden or a small farm well cropped and cultivated than see a raau taxed beyond his strength, in the one case, or his capital in the other, his health and temper being worn out in fruitless efforts to keep pace with the work. I'or the sake of clearness and brevity, it will be convenient to divide my subject into three sections, as follows, viz.; — Flowers (including window plants). Fruits, and Vegetables. In the proper place I shall also refer to the management of the greenhouse and garden frame or pit, as glass in somo shape or other is becoming quite common in the better class of cottagers' gardens. Flowers. Flowers may not — as an old labourer said to mo one day — make the pot boil ; but, nevertheless, they are, as I have s.aid, the sourco of much genuine pleasure. There is an innate love for flowers in the human heart; it is first seen in the little child amongst the Daisies and Buttercups, and even the most callous and indifferent are not insensible to their influences. Thoso wlio have it in their power to make presents of flowers, especially among the sick, are not likely to forget the emotion that brightens the cyo and flushes the palo check of the invalid when receiving a present of flowers. As cottages are not usually situated in a swamp, and from their small size are ordinarily surrounded by a hedge and ditch, artificial drainage, so far as the gardens aro concerned, is hardly necessary. There may of course bo exceptions to this rule like all others, and where drainage is really necessary it should be the first thing thought of. I am not in favour of shallow drains where the spade is freely used and where fruit trees and, indeed, trees of any kind, arc growing near. The roots of trees have a natural aptitude for running down to the drains for moisture, and in the course of a few years the drains will probably bo choked and rendered useless by their fibrous growth. The depth of the drain should never be less than 3 ft., but I should prefer a depth of -I ft. if a good outfall could be obtained. Fencing and draining, however, are proper matters for tho consideration of the owner of the property, and in the majority of instances are carried out at his expense. In laying oat cottage gardens, there is ample room for the dis- play of both taste and judgment. Small cottage gardens should not be unnecess.arily cut up with paths, for they take up ground which might otherwise be made use of to great advantage; at the same time, there must be free access for the convenience of cnltivation, and one-half the pleasure of a garden is destroyed if a man or hi.s family cannot walk in it in all weathers. Next to a wall a good Whitethorn hedge forms the best boundary fence, and as regards shelter it is even superior to a wall. AVhcu tho bottom is kept free from weeds, and the top neatly clipped, it gives an air of tidiness to the garden, and is usually indicative of good culture on the part of the occupier. The cottagers' flower borders arc often of a heterogeneous character, some of the plants being dwarf and some tall. Probably the tall plants are growing over the path, quite hiding the dwarfer blooms at tho back. My object is to draw the attention of the cottage gardener to such inconsistencies, and to show him tho necessity of examining his borders, discovering the worthless subjects that should be eliminated therefrom, and adding to his stock those of a better character. In tho first place it should be borne in mind that flowers will not yield their full beauty unless well cared for, and our first, and in fact principal care, must be to thoroughly prepare the site by trenching in manure, and by adding fresh soil. Tho list of plants given further on will be mostly of a hardy character, and when once properly planted will be better without having their roots disturbed until they get too large for their allotted posi- tions, hence the necessity for well working the land before planting. If tho border be more than 4' ft. wide, a few ever- green shrubs of a compact growth, like the Box and Aucuba, may be planted along the back, at intervals of 5 ft. or 6 ft. They give a warm and cheerful appearance in winter when all else is dreary. Some of the dili'erent forms of Ivy, planted along the back and trained to stout stakes, form a striking permanent background. When they have attained the requisite height thoy may bo prnned annually in spring, and will form close, dense pillars or pyramids. Ivy is common enough anywhere, and the large-leaved Irish, or even the common Wood Ivy, treated in this way, will add anew and an agreeable feature to cottage gardens that will be especially attractive in winter. As regards edgings to the principal paths, I have seen mnny things used for the purpose, all more or less suitable. Bo.x looks well when well kept, but it often becomes patchy and in bad condition. A neat, dead edging, such as tiles or bricks of a dark colour, will always have a smart appearance, but they are expensive. One of the neatest and best edgings I have seen for flower borders in cottago gardens for somo time came under my notice last spring, and was composed of a thick line of Arabis albida. When in flower in spring it looked lovely; it had occupied the same position for several years, and the only trouble taken with it was to cut it well back after flowering. There aro many hardy, close-growing plants well adapted for edgings, and involving a very trifling amount of expense or labour. The common House Leek makes a very neat edging, and will grow anywhere, and tho trampling of little feet will not kill it. All work of tho above-mentioned description should be done in autumn, for spring necessitates so much labour in the vegetable department that if delayed till then it v.'ill probably be ^imperfectly completed, and it is belter so to arrange our plans as to avoid undue pressure at any season. Do not plant Hollyhocks, Phloxes, or other tall- growing plants too near each other, or to tho front of the border. In arranging the borders tho tallest plants should be at tho back, and tho nc.\t highest in euccessiou till tho Aug. 12, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 153 planting is finislied oS by a dwarf row along the front. All bare spaces can be filled np with neatly staked Sweet Peas in circular patches, Mignonette, and autumn and spring-sown annuals. The main features should be com- posed of hardy perennial plants, not too thickly planted, thereby leaving room for a few Stocks, Asters, and other annuals to give fragrance and beauty during the autumn months, when some of the permanent occupants will have ceased flowering for the season. If there be space for a narrow border under the wiiidows of the cottage, dwarf plants only should bo planted, so as not to obstruct tbe light. Sweet-scented flowers might be largely used. A few dwarf Eoses, Stocks, Mig- nonette, Violets, Musk, and two or three Clove Carnations will, in combination with the Honeysuckle over the porch, make the cottager's garden a very fairyland on summer even- ings ; and no matter how small the space of course there must be a few bulbs, for no garden is complete without a few Snow- drops and Crocuses ; and, above all, neatness should reign supreme, especially in the case of the flower borders near the cottage door. A few minutes once a week with the hoe will sufiice to keep the soil in a healthy condition and destroy the weeds when small. The whole surface should always be fre- quently hoed over in dry weather about 1 in. deep, not a patch here and there, and then watering, oven in the hottest weather, ■will be rarely required. All flowers that require staking should be attended to before they are blown over by the wind; and do not lie them all in a bundle, like a faggot, but place the stake a little distance to the rear of the plant, and draw the shoots up one by one and secure them loosely to the stake. It does not add to the health or appearance of a plant if it be tied too closely to its support ; on the contrary, a slight waving with the motion of the air is natural and beneficial. In the case of some strong-growing species the shoots should be thinned out when only a few inches high ; by so doing, the flowers will be finer, and they will last longer in beauty. I have written thus far in the hope of helping the humblest class of cottagers in the management of their flower borders ; but, as I have previously remarked, there are degrees in cottage gardens and gardeners. The proprietor of a two-light frame is on a higher level in horticulture than the man who has all his plants exposed, whilst the' happy owner of a greenhouse, if only 8 ft. square, need never be at a loss for healthy and interesting employment. The possessors of those valuable adjuncts to good gardening, a greenhouse and a frame, often aim at too much, and frequently by over- crowding defeat the object they have in view. The cottager often aspires to have a real flower garden laid out in geome- trical form, either on Grass or gravel beneath'; his windows. Bright-coloured flowers always look best on green turf, and since the introduction of small-sized mowing machines, small Grass plots can easily be kept in good trim ; but small Grass plots, unless the work be well done at first, are often unsatis- factory from their settling unequally. Before the turf is laid, it is almost impossible to -make the ground too firm, either by treading or, what is still better, have the whole surface rammed down thoroughly, especially if any of the surface has been recently stirred to any depth. Any oae who lays down a geometrical flower garden, if it only contain four small beds, should endeavour to have it exact as to both level and outline. ■ I have often been asked the question — What is the best way of planting a small flower garden of three or four beds ? My answer has always been. Let every one please himself, and take into consideration his own means and taste. Why should one person go to the expense of pro- viding fresh plants for his flower garden annually because his neighbour chooses to do so? Much of the enjoyment of a warden is lost unless one can plant the flowers one loves best in it ; for example, let the man who is enthusiastic about the queen of flowers fill his garden full of Eoses, not tall, gawky standards, but dwarfs on their own roots, or budded low down on the Brier or Manetti. They need not be all on a dead level; there might be pillars and pyramids of General Jacque- minot and other vigorous growers. Arches and bowers may also be covered with the rampant growers that will fill the air with fragrance, and if the enthusiastic amateur learn the simple arts of budding and making cuttings — both o£ whieh subjects will be referred to subsequently— he may indulge his hobby at a less expense than the bedding- out system would entail. My advice to amateurs and small occupiers is. If a man have a preference for any particular class of plants, let him indulge that preference by filling his garden with the flowers of his choice. I know it is said that a man with a special hobby is a bore (which remark may certainly apply in some relations of life), but it is not so in. gardening. One may have his Eosery, another his Fernery, a third his Alpine garden, whilst afourth may be an enthusiast in bulbous-rooted plants, and may desire to surround his dwelling with collections full of interest and beauty, from the humble Snowdrop to the gorgeous Tulip and the stately Lily. Others, again, may take delight in stateliness of form, and striking effects may be produced by hardy plants of commanding aspect. The Globe Artichoke, the large-leaved Ehubarbs, the Yuccas, Bamboos, the Pampas Grass, the Hollyhocks, the double Sunflowers, and a host of others, are fitted to adorn the dell or to clothe the sloping bank. But in the formation of their flower-beds let one and all eschew stars, diamonds, and all fancy patterns. A plain circle or oval or an irregularly- shaped bed with easy-flowing lines, would present a tar better appearance than a flower-bed in the shape of which sharp angles prevail. If treated in this way, small gardens would possess more originality, be more interesting, and afford more room for novelty in arrangement. I know amateurs with small gardens who regularly every spring buy the same number of Scarlet Pelargoniums and Yellow Calceolarias to plant in their borders, and — unless a revolution or an earth- quake takes place — will probably continue to do so to the end of their lives ; and this not because they like these two plants better than all others, for they can thoroughly appreciate other species when they see them, but they hardly know how to make a change, and they ar.e under the spell of that fashion that compels the multitude to follow in the footsteps of the few. I have previously urged that each should, in the matter of gardening, consult his own taste and wishes alone, but I should like to qualify it with a caution, viz., that in laying out or altering small gardens, there is a certain fitness of things in connection therewith that should never be lost sight of. One place, from the character of its soil and situation, may be naturally well adapted for one class of plants, but to fit it for something quite different, may involve a vast amount of labour and expense ; for instance, it is of no use to plant Roses on a dry sandy bank, as that would only end in failure ; but, with a slight alteration of the surface a very pretty Alpine garden might be made, such plants as Yuccas, Abies clanbrasiliana, the common dark-leaved S'Gvin, the pros- trate Juniper, St. John's Vfort, Cotoneaster, and Vinca, being set to clothe the prominent points ; whilst Sedums, Saxifrages, and a host of similar plants would be at home on the lower slopes. Suitable spots, also, could be found for Cyclamens, Primulas, &c. ; and if a few large stones could be obtained and bedded in the hill-side, an attractive mound of hardy rock plants will be formed that would cost much less than forming a mockery of a terrace, with a few miniature beds laid out on it. I have known instances in which a round sum of rnoney has been spent to perch a modern flower garden on the side of a cliff, in the natural home of Perns and creepers, which latter would have made the place permanently beautiful at a very trifling cost. Shrubs for Small Gardens. Prom their many shades of colour and shapes of growth and foliage, shrubs are at all seasons as beautiful and interest- ing as flowers; and it must not be forgotten that many shi-ubs boar very beautiful flowers in addition to beautiful foliage. In almost every garden there is room for improvement in the character of the shrubberies. There is too much sameness, too little variety ; everything is reduced to one dead level ; group after group is composed of the same materials of the commonest description. In more than one nursery during the last year or two I have seen the quarters filled to repletion ■with the best kinds of evergreens and flowering shrubs, and but a limited demand for them, whilst the demand for common Laurel, common Yews, Lilacs, &c., could not be met. In the annexed list I have omitted Laurels, for although they are j beautiful evergreens that ■will grow in any soil and situation. 154 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 12, 1876. they are not so well adapted for such places where it is sought to obtain the best effect in a limited space. liist. Cotoneastcr Simmonsi Osmanthns ilicifolias Cupressus Lawsoniana variegatus Deutzia gracilis PaeoniaMoutana Bnnksi „ glabra Phillyrea cordata Escallonia macrantlia Pyrus japonica Euonymus japonicus Retinospora ericoides variegatus „ filifera Forsythia viridissima „ pisifera Genista prsecox „ aurea Ivy, various Rhus glabra laciniata Holly, various Kibes aareum Juniperus stricta ,, sanguineum „ sabina Spiraea ariffifolia ,, prostrata Lindleyana Kerria japonica Tamarisk Laurustinus Taxus baccata aurca Ligustrum aureum va- Thujopsis dolobratava- riegatuui riegata Lilac, Persian Venetian Sumach Maguolia conspicua „ purpurea Where space permits there are many beautiful kinds of weep- ing trees, such as Sophora japonica pondula, &o. ; and where trees of larger growth are admissible, the Weeping Lime is a fine tree for landscape effect, and one of the most delightful trees to shade a garden seat. Among the large family of Coni- fers, too, selections might be made of the most beautiful and interesting character. Hardy Plants Suitable for Small Gardens. Acer Ncgundo vario- gatum Aucuba japonica ,, raascula viridis Althiea frutex Aralia japonica Arbor-vita?, Chinese „ Siberian ,; golden Arbutus Unedo Jierberis Aquifolium „ Darwiui „ japonica Box, various Broom, yellow & white Buddleia globosa Catalpa syringtefolia Cornus mascula varie- gata Cotoneastcr micro- phylla Colour. Usual Height. Feet. Anemone japonica rose 2 to 3 „ Honorine Joubcrt white Aster Recvcsi . . . . white and yellow 1 „ pyrentous , . . . blue and yellow 2 to 3 Alyssum eaxatile . . . . yellow 1 Anchusa italica . . . . blue 2 to 3 Aquilegia glanduloea . blue and white 1 „ cojrulea blue Campanula persicifolia blue and white 1 to 3 Coreopsis lanceolata . yellow lto3 Corydalls lutea . . . . yellow 1 ton Doronicum caucasicum yellow 1 Geranium sanguineum . crimson-purplo 1 to 2 Helianthus rigidus yellow 3 toi Aubrietia purpurea purple i Delphinium formosum 1)1 ue 3 Helleborus niger .... white Uol Iris germanica, and others . violet 2 to 3 Lnpinus polyphyllus . bluish-purple 2 to 4 Polygonatura raultiflorum . white 2 Pseonia oflicinalis, and others crimson 1 to 3 Pyrethrunis double, various various 1 to 2 Phlox, various (the decussata section are hardiest and best) . varljua 2 to 3 llollyhoclts (uuless required for exhibition seedlings from double flowers are usually satis- factory) .... various G to8 Viola argentea .... wliitc and purple 1 Yucca filaracntosa white 3 to .5 „ gloriosa. . _ . white 3 to G Zauscliuoria califoinica vermilion 1 Fuchsias— coccinea, gracilis, and others various 4 to 8 Dielytra spoctabilis rose Lilium eandidum .... white 3 to 5 ,, tigriuum .... oi-angc-scarlet Tritoraa Uvaria .... orange and red 4 to G Ijychnis chalccdonica . scarlet 2 to 3 Antirrhinums, various, from seed various 1 Clove Carnation . . white and crimson Chrysanthemums, various . various 2 to 3 Pentstomons, various . various 1 to 3 llcpaticas, various Primulas, single and double, the latter from seed I'olyautlius, gold-laced, from seed Alpine Auriculas (tho three last do best in a cool partially- shaded border) . ; Sweet Williarus . . . ' Wallflowers Daisies { I have purposely kept this list as short and select as possible, as long lists of names only tend to confuse those who are not well acquainted with plauts. When once a beginning is made and knowledge is gained, there is a very wide field open for tho enthusiast in such matters. The approximate heights and colours are given to assist tho inexperienced planter in arrang- ing his borders. Plants for a Bockery. Genista prostrata : Saxitraga umbrosa va- Ileliantheraums, in var. | riegata Hypericum humifnsam .Saxifraga cristata Alyssum sasatile Ai-abis albida „ ,, variegata ,, purpurea Aubrietia purpurea )i „ va- riegata Bambusa Fortune! va- riegata Campanula fragilia ,, garganica ,, carpatica Cerastium tomentosum Clematis JacUmanni „ lanuginosa, pallida, and others Diantbus deltoides Dryas octopetala Erica carnea Convolvulus mauri- tanicus Ibcris sempervirens Lithospermum prostra- tum Lysimachia nummu- laria Saponaria ocymoides Plumbago Larpenta) Thymus lanuginosus ,, Serpyllum Saxifraga bifiora „ ceratophylla ,, hypnoides ,, oppositifolia ,, sarraentosa „ granulata plena Saxifraga umbrosa ma- jor Sedum Ewersi „ reflexum „ carncum varie- gatura „ Sieboldi „ glaucum Phlox procumbens „ subulata ,, Nelsoui Polemonium cceruleum variegatum Spircea Filipcndula plena Festuca glanca Veronica spicata Vinca major „ minor ,, clegantissima Many of tho plants in the above list — indeed most of them will make capital plants for the front of a mixed border When allowed to spread out a foot or so in diameter they are far more effective at all seasons than when small patches are planted thickly ; in fact, their true character can scarcely be seen unless they have room for development. Herbaceous borders or beds of Alpine plants should never be dug with tho spade ; a small fork or, iu some instances, a trowel, will be the best implement to use amongst choice plants, many of which do not liower well until thoroughly established. Hardy Plants with Fine Foliage or Habit. Carduus erisphorus Centaurea babylonica Crambe cordifolia Cynara Scolymus Elymus arenaria Erianthus Eavcnno) Ferula communis Funkia albo-marginata ,, ccerulea Gynerium argenteum and its varieties Gunnera scabra Helianthus multiflorus flore plcno Heracleum pubescens Panieum bulbosura Phytolacca dccandra Polygonum cuspidatum Khubarbs, various Tritoma, in variety Yuccas, in variety Acanthus spinosus Aralia edulis Astilbe rivularis Aruudo donax „ conspicua Bambusa aurca „ falcata „ japonica Bocconia cordata Caunas, various Carcx pendula Striking effects may bo easily produced by a judicious grouping of the above, allowing single specimens of such kinds as Aruudo conspicua, Yuccas, and others of majestic or stately growth, to stand out on the turf or to till in the salient points of the iiicturo. Some pains should bo taken to give them a good start by properly preparing tho site by trenching and manuring, for plants with large spreading foliage require a good deal of support. Hardy Bulbs. Most people who grow bulbs in their gardens confine them- selves to Hyacinths, Crocuses, Tulips, Daffodils, Gladiolus, Winter Aconites, and Snowdrops, but even in small g.aruens room may be found for some of tho following : — KrytlirouiumDenscanis Fritillaria imperialis Uxalis liowiei Ornithogalum mon- ,, lloribunda tjinum Lcucojum auturanalo Scillas, various ,, vcrnum Sternbcrgia lutca Liliiun auratura, and others Tritelcia, various Alstrojmeria aurea Arum Dracunculus Dodccathcon Mcadia Boses for small Gardens. Baron Prevost Baroness Kotliscliild Beauty of Waltham Charles Lefebvro Comtcsse d'Osford ,, do Chabril- land Duo do Rohan Dupuy Jamiu General Jacqueminot John Hopper Jules Margottin lioui.so Dargans Madame Charles Cra- pclet JlarechallVaillant Miuie liaumann Jlrs. Rivers Paul Neron Prince Camillo Rohan A^ictor Verdier Xavicr Olibo Souvenir do la Mai maison do Marquise do Castellane Madame Korean Aug. 12, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 156. =^. Cheshunt Hybrid Devoniensia Gloire de Dijon Goubanlt Aim^e Vibert Celine Forestier Dundee Rambler Banksian, white ,, yellow Boarsanlt, common Chinaj common Tea Boses. [ Madame Bravy Madame Falcot Marechal Niel I Moiret Noisetts Koses. I Cloth of Gold I Janne Desprez Climbing Boses. PeHctte perpetnS Anna Alexieff General Jacqneminot I Safrano Souvenir d'un Ami iSolfaterre iTriomphe de Eenn? Aime6 Vibert Marechal Niel Gloire de Dijon Mrs. Rivera "Window Gardening. It has often been remarked that the gardening which is carried on under the greatest drawbacks often yields the greatest enjoyment. There is a feeling of satisfaction en- gendered by having surmounted difficulties that at first sight appeared insuperable. An active-minded man must have some- thing to occupy his leisure time, and there is nothing gives so much real pleasure as the culture of flowers ; the very care and thought that are necessaryfor success add a charm of their own, and increase the interest which one feels in their success. It has been said, " Give a man secure possession of a barren rock, and he will turn it into a garden," and this apothegm gives a very good illustration of what labour is capable of accomplishing when there is a prospect of its obtaining its reward. The return that is made in health and happiness has as certain a monetary value as if the cash actually found its way into the pocket. The large relative proportion of their incomes that many working men spend on their own enjoyment, and in which their families have no share, might be usefully turned into some other channel if they could be persuaded to look for amusement in some occupation in which the whole family might join. It is possible for those who have only a back-yard of limited dimensions, or even only the window-sills, to achieve horticultural triumphs of a very gratifying nature. The only really necessary qualification for a beginner to possess is per- severance ; failures must be.looked for as a matter of course, no one being exempt from them ; but if rightly and earnestly con- sidered, failures are our best teachers. Of course I am not now alluding to those disastrous failures, the natural conse- quences of neglect, but those only of a less serious character, which may be attributed to the improperly carrying out of some detail. It is usually the attention to small matters that makes the difference between success and failure. The person of small means and less experience who may set about turning his back-yard into a garden, had better not aim at too much at first. Success is more likely to be obtained by concentrating one's efforts upon a few subjects, and those of comparatively easy cultivation at the beginning. Per'haps one of the greatest inconveniences the small cultivator labours under in large towns is the difficulty of procuring suitable soil. And although plants derive a good deal of their sustenance from water and air, still it is also important that the roots should be placed in a good healthy soil. Road-scrapings, containing a small pro- portion of the droppings of animals, can generally be obtained in most places, and this with a few nodules of partially decayed turf, and any thoroughly decayed vegetable matter such as leaf -mould, will grow most plants that are desirable for a cottage with no greenhouse ; and failing this, most florists sell suitable composts for a small sum per peck or bushel. For spring or summer display in the back-yard or on the window-sill outside, boxes are preferable to pots, from the fact that the plants in them require less attention in hot weather, and wood being a non-conductor, the points of the roots are less liable to be scorched by the heat of the sun than if the pots are fully exposed. In growing plants in pots, some of the mistakes most commonly made by the inexperienced are pot- ting too loosely, filling the pots too full with soil, and making inadequate, or perhaps no provision for drainage. Moderately firm pottiug ia conducive to free and continuous blooming, even in the case of soft-wooded plants, wliilst for hard-wooded plants it is indispensable ; and there mu^t be sufficient space ' left at the top of the pot, otherwise there will be a difficulty in giving the plants enough water, besides the extra trouble caused by washing the soil over the tops of the pots. A clear space of ^ from ^ in. to f in. will generally be sufficient for aTl--aizes up to and including 6-in. pots. With boxes this rule need not btr so strictly enforced, as the soil will be less liable to wash over. I have seen very good displays produced in back-yards and vrindows in towns, by using old raisin and soap boxes. With a few holes bored through the bottom to allow the surplus water to pass through freely, and a coat of green or stone- coloured paint, they present a decent appearance, and with care will last some years; and as regards the well-being of the plants, they will be as efficient as the most costly-constructed boxes. But whether boxes or pots be used, thorough drainage is most important. Broken crocks in three sizes can be easily and quickly obtained ; one large crock should be placed over the hole, then a layer slightly smaller, and afterwards a handful of small pieces about the size of a Hazel Nut on the top, the whole being about IJ in. thick, according to the size of the pot. Charcoal — small coke — and clean gravel may also be used in cases of emergency. A little clean Moss, or a thin layer of the roughest bits of soil, may be placed over the drainage to keep it open. Amateurs, as a rule, are rather too fond of potting in finely-sifted soil, for- getting that sifting takes out all the fibre which it is so desirable both from the mechanical office it performs in keep- ing the soil open, and from its gradual decay supplying the plants with food. Where soil can be made fine enough by crumbling it in the hands, it is better than sifting it ; of course in the case of cuttings or very small plants, it may be found advisable to sift the soil. Watering, To know how and when to water plants in pots can only really be acquired by experience. There are so many varying circumstances in connection therewith, such as the state of the atmosphere, the condition of the plants (whether recently potted or with the pots full of roots), and a host of local conditions that have a more or less direct or indirect bearing upon it, that a correct estimate can only be formed on the spot. More errors are committed by overwatering than by keeping the plants too dry. When a plant requires water it makes known its wants in an easily understood language, by the shrinking and drooping of its leaves ; and although the signs of constant repletion — sickly, unhealthy foliage — are none the less surely given, the evidence is delayed until the mischief is in many cases irreparable. Prom May to Sep- tember the plants should be watered in the evening, and at other seasons of the year at an early period of the day. If a plant requires water, sufficient should be given to thoroughly moisten the whole soil ; to water in dribblets only on the sur- face will most surely lead to difficulties, all the more mis- chievous in their consequences from their tendency to deceive. Soft water, somewhat near the temperature of the air, is the best for all plants, but where hard water only can be had, either a portion should be boiled and mixed with the remainder, or the whole should be placed in the open air twenty-four hours before it is applied. Some of my acquaintances attri- bute their success in the culture of window plants to their constant habit of giving their plants cold tea ; probably boiled water would be quite as effective. To know when a plant is dry at the roots, rap the pot sharply with the knuckles ; if the sound emitted be sharp and hollow, the plant probably requires watering ; if the sound be dull and heavy, it may be assumed that it does not lack moisture. This test, however, cannot always be relied upon, for the sound varies in some measure according to whether the plant has been potted firmly or loosely. A more reliable test is to take the plant up in the hand, and its weight will be a pretty good guide as to its condition ; but when once expe- rience has been gained, if the same person always attends to the watering, it is rarely that a mistake is made. The time that has elapsed since the last watering, the condition of the atmosphere, and other matters that only come under his 156 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 12, 1876, observation, will lead him, as it were, by instinct, to water at the right time, and to give the necessary quantity. In outside window gardening, if I may so term it, there is abundant room for more variety than at present ; many plants not commonly met with in such positions might be advan- tageously used. Bright and continuous effects may be pro- duced by annuals alone if sown at different times and brought forward in boxes successionally. Ivy and other creepers might be planted along the front of the boxes, and allowed to hang down naturally over the side, or they may be planted at the ends and trained upwards. Virginian Creepers, again.areexceedingly useful for this purpose. The Canary Creeper and other Tro- poeolums would be quite at home in boxes outside the win- dows, provided the soil was rich, and water was liberally supplied. There are, in fact, so many things that may be snccessf uUy grown outside windows in boxes that one wonders that so little variety is seen. In order to keep a window gay and interesting I should suggest that several sets of boxes about 5 in. or 6 in. deep, be prepared, using the deepest ones for the summer-blooming plants. The year might be com- menced with a box filled with Sedums, not necessarily all of one kind. There might be a mixture with the long shoots falling over the sides of the box gracefully on all sides; with the Sedums might be associated, in early spring. Crocuses and Snowdrops planted in October. Hyacinths and Tulips might also be intermingled, and there would be no occasion to re-plant the boxes every year. What a sensation would be created by a box brimfull of common Yellow Primrose early in spring, or the common Wild Hyacinth or Bluebell ! Many a dweller in large towns, who was country-born, would be enraptured by the sight of the flowers of their childhood. Polyanthuses and Alpine Auriculas from seed would also be very effective, and could be obtained at a very small cost and trouble ; in succession might follow autumn -sown annuals of many bright and beautiful kinds. In summer Pelargoniums, Stocks, Mignonette, &c., would look gay and give off a delightful perfume; and when the autumn and winter came round there would be dwarf Chrysanthemums, single Russian Violets, and dwarf Shtubs, including berry-bearing species. If some pains be taken with the Violets to get plants started early, they will begin flower- ing in autumn, and continue to bloom through the winter. There are numbers of plants that would be as effective as those I have named, or even more so, but I hope I have already said enough to show that the materials for beautifying the humblest home are neither scanty nor costly, and that the care and attention necessary to their successful development will open up new sources of thought and supply a pui-c source of enjoy- ment, all the more gratifying because untainted by selfishness. If the outside of the window may be described as the poor man's flower garden, the inside may, by a similar figure of speech, be called his hothouse ; or he may have his aquarium, furnished with gold fish, and, to keep the water pure, a few aquatic plants. As regards plants in rooms, boxes are hardly so suitable as pots, but the pots if desired may be plunged in an ornamental box and covered in with green Moss, which will impart a better effect than when the staring red pots are visible. Pots 6 in. in size will be found large enough for most subjects, and some would require pots of less size. For various reasons it is a bad practice to uso pots a second time till they have been well cleaned out. All potting should as far as possible be done by the beginning of August. It gives time for the plant to get well established before the short days of winter. If the import- ance of this were more generally recognised, there would be fewer deaths among window plants in winter. Late potting, accompanied perhaps by a too free use of the watering-pot, causes soft, sappy growth at a time when maturation should be the first consideration. As a rule, when the days shorten less water will be required, but even then, whenever it is necessary to water at all, enough should be given to moisten all the soil, only it will be required much less frequently. These strictures upon late potting do not refer to bulbs. September is time enough for Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, &o., as their natural period of growth is in the winter. Plant culture in rooms requires constant watchful- ness ; cleanliness is as important for the health of plants as for human beings. If the leaves be coated with dust, or the young growths infested with green fly, it is a sure sign of neglect on the part of the cultivator ; the sponge should bo used as often as convenient to remove dust from the leaves, and advantage should be taken of every warm shower to place the plants outside for a few hours. If a strict watch be kept the green fly, when it makes its appearance, may be easily kept down by picking them off without resorting to other remedial measures, which are all more or less troublesome to apply. The object should be to keep the plants clean and healthy, and by giving plenty of ventilation on all favour- able occasions to make the growth hardy and strong. The ventilation of rooms where plants are growing is well worth some study, especially as I believe the moro perfectly that is done the better will be not only the health of the plants, but also of the human occupants. In cold weather ventilate, if at all, only at the top of the win- dow. Never allow a cold, keen blast from the east or north to blow through them, chilling their sap and almost shrivelling up their foliage. Be particular to open the windows early in the morning when the weather is favourable ; and, on warm sunny days, especially in early spring, a free ventilation will be beneficial to give colour and strength to the young growth. In spite of all the care taken to insure strong, healthj' growth, should insects attack them in large numbers, they must be destroyed, or they will ruin all hopes of obtaining good blooms. This may be effected either by fumigation or by washing with an insecticide. A friend of mine, whose windows were the admiration of all who saw them, made a wire frame and covered it with oiled calico, and whenever he saw any flies on his plants ho moved them to the back kitchen table, placed his calico cover over them, and introduced a small iron plate on which a red-hot coal or two had been placed, with suflicient Tobacco placed on the coals to fill the calico cover full of smoke, which very effectually destroyed the insects ; the Tobacco, however, must never be allowed to flare or blaze, or the tender foliage of some plants will suffer. A very useful dip may be made by dissolving 2 oz. of soft soap in a gallon of soft water ; then place 1 oz. of Tobacco in a basin or other vessel and pour over it 1 quart of boiling water; when the strength has been extracted from the Tobacco, the liquid may be passed through a strainer and mixed with the soap and water. The plants should be taken one at a time and their heads dipped in the mixture, taking care that none of it gets into the pots. After dipping lay them on their sides for a few minutes, and before the solution dries on them rinse them in clean water. Either of these methods will effectually destroy the insects without injuring the plants ; but, as I have previously stated, never allow the plants to suffer from want of water ; pay special attention to ventilation, taking advantage of warm showers to place them outside for an hour or two, and keep a watchful eye for the appearance of the first fly, and destroy it before there is time to found a colony of them. Rooms in which gas is burned, unless very great care be paid to ventilation, are not suitable for plants in blossom. Succu- lents— that is, plants with thick, fleshy leaves — may succeed ; but flowering plants should be removed to another room at night when the gas is lighted, if they are to be kept in health and the flowers from dropping prematurely. Plants Suitable for Outside Window Gardening. Arabig albijft Alpine Auriculaa (cool position) Astilbo japonica Aubrietias, various Cheirantbua llarshalli, and others Cbrysantbeniums.Pom- pones, varioua Calystogia pubescena Campanulas, various Cerastium toracntosum Daisies, various Ilepaticaa, varioua Iberia corifolia Lithospermum prostra- turn Linaria Cymbalaria LysimacUia nummu- laria Musk Mentha argentea varie- pvta Primulas, various (cool position) Folyanthua Phlox frondosa, and others Pansics, various Sibthorpia europaia Sedums, many kinds Saiifragea Sempcrvivums Thymus aureus margi- natus Vinea cleprantissima Violets, Kussian and others Veronicas, varioua Annuals for Windows. Nemophila insignia I Limnanthes Donglasi I Stocks Saponaria calabrica Myosotia diasitiQora Aatera Silene compact* ' Mignonette ' Collinsia bicolor Aug. 12, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 157 Shrubs for Window Gardeaing. Ancuba japonica ,, „ mascnla Tiridis „ „ vera femina Euonymns, various Box, various Bei'beris Aquifolium Cotoneaster micro- phylla Deutzia gracilis Erica carnea Heliantbemums.various Hydrangea bortensis, and others Ivy, various Jasminum nudidorum ,, officinale Virginian Creeper Clematis, various Laurustinus Acer Negundo varie- gatum Yucca filamentosa Plants for Suspending in Baskets. Calystegia, various Cobffia scandens Convolvulus mauri- tanicus Pelargonium, Ivy- leaved, various Linaria Cymbalaria Litbospermum pros- tratum Lopbospermum scan- dens Lysiraacbia nummu- larii Lycopodium denti- cuktam Saxifraga sai'mentosa Nierembergia gracilis Tradescantia zebrina Tropsolums, various Yincas Campanula garganica, and otbers Sedum carneuin varie- gatum, and otbers Cereus flagelliformis Isolepis gracilis Summer Creepers for training outside. Canary Creeppr, and I Lopbospermum scan- other Tropa;olums | dens CobKa scandens Maurandia Barclayana Plants for Pot Culture in Rooms. Aloes, various Astilbe japonica Cyclamen persicum^ hybrids Calceolarias Cinerarias Chrysanthemums Cytisus racemosua Cactu?, various Hydrangeas Fuchsias Lobelias Lily of the Valley Music Myrtles Mignonette Mesembryantbemums Roses Pelai'goniams, various, not forgetting the old sweet-scented kinds Petunias Ferns for Shady Windows. Aspidium exaltatum Pteris serrulata ,, tremula Pteris cretica albo- lineata Asplenium flaecidnm many other kinds may be added, such as Lastrea Pilix-mas oris- tata and others Asplenium Adiantum nigrum and otbers Snowdrops Crocuses Hyacinths Polysticbum, various Polypodium, various Lycopodium denticu- latum Bulbs. Narcissus Anemones I Eanxmculus Cyrtomium faleatum Phlebodium aureura Lycopodium Wildenowi „ apodum Scillas I Stembergia lutea Hints on Propagation for Cottage Gardeners. BuDDBfG EosES. — The stocks should be planted in the autumn for budding the following summer. The Mauetti is the best stock for light soils, and the Brier for heavy ones. Wherever the Brier grows luxuriantly in the hedgerows, in that neighbourhood it may be planted with safety ; the stocks may be raised from cuttings, or in the case of the Brier, from seed also. Plenty of seedling Briers may be obtained from the hedge-rows, and if planted early in autumn, will be available for budding as dwarfs the following summer. Manetti stocks are very easily raised from cuttings, about 8 in. or 10 in. long, planted firmly in rows 1 ft. apart, leaving two eyes out of the ground. At the end of the first year they should be lifted, the upper roots cut off, the branches trimmed in and planted 1 ft. apai't in the rows and 3 ft. between the rows. The object of trimming off the upper roots is to permit the stock to be planted further out of the ground, and to put the bud in low down on the stock, so as to produce neat and compact plants. Great care should be taken in cutting out all buds from the bottom portion of both stocks and cuttings, to prevent suckers forming underground. In the summer of the second year from the cutting they are usually strong enough for budding. In the case of dwarf Eoses the buds should be inserted close to the ground, and if a little of the soil round the collar be removed with a pointed stick or some small inatrnment, the bark thus uncovered will, in dry seasons, work with greater freedom. Budding is a very simple operation, and a few minutes' prac- tical instruction will give more information than can be imparted by a whole chapter of description ; but for the benefit of those who cannot readily obtain a practical lesson I will endeavour to describe the operation as plainly as possible. There are two modes of budding : — the old plan is to make a horizontal cut just through the bark as low down the stem as possible, and from that a downward cut at right angles about 2 in. long (thus, T), just large enough to insert the bud, care being taken not to cut too deeply, only just dividing the bark. The cambium or inner bark should not be disturbed in the operation. The other plan is simply to make a cut downwards, carefully raising the bark, and sliding the bud under. There is less mutilation in the latter plan, and the union is generally complete. It involves a little more trouble till one gets expert, and, perhaps for budding on the ground, the amateur will adopt the old-fashioned plan. The best time for budding Eoses on the Brier is when the Eosea are in the full flush of their first bloom. A certain amount of discrimination is necessary in selecting the buds so as just to have them at the right stage. As a rule it may betaken that when the thorns will rub off easily the buds will be in the requisite condition, and the bark will work freely and easily. Some people attach importance to taking buds only from flowering shoots, but I have taken buds wherever I could get them without finding any material difference to ensue. In theory it promises well, but in some places the difficulty is to infuse vigour into the plants ; when that is done there is no difiiculty in producing bloom. In cutting out the buds take the shoot in the left hand, remove the leaves, but not the leaf-stalks, then holding the knife, which I need hardly say should be as sharp as a razor, in a slanting direction, cut about half an inch below the bud, pass the knife up the shcot, and come out about half- au-inch above the bud, taking off the bud and a thin slice of wood with it, which can bo afterwards removed by inserting the point of the knife at the lower end, and pressing it with some force against the end of the thumb. If the eye of the bud comes out with the wood, the bud is use- less. There is no advantage in having the shield of the buds very large, as they are more difficult to manipulate, and will require a larger incision to be made in the stock. As fast as the buds are inserted they should be tied closely down either with soft matting or worsted yarn, so that the air may not enter. Buds that remain dormant till the following spring usually make the strongest plants, therefore the stocks should not be cut in or headed down till the following March. In the course of a month or so after budding they should be looked over and the ties loosened to allow room for the buds to swell. Standard Eoses should be budded in the same way, only of course the buds should be inserted in the young wood of the same season's growth, close down to the base of the shoot, in order to form compact heads. One advantage the Manetti has is that it can usuallv be worked late in the season, and the plants make splendid heads in one year. Eoses can also be grafted both on the stems and the roots ; but as I consider budding to be the best plan for the small cultivator to adopt, I shall confine my remarks to that alone. EosES PROM Cuttings. — The least troublesome method of striking Eose cuttings is to take off the cuttings about tho first or second week in October, and not later. Select_ only strong well-ripened wood, and make the cuttings from 6 in. to 8 in. long, making a clean cut just beneath a joint to form the base of the cutting. Plant them in rows in an open situation, leaving about two buds exposed, the remainder to be buried in the soil and made firm. Mulch with some non-conducting material such as sawdust, old tan, cocoa fibre, or any similar material. I have tried cuttings both in a north and also in a south aspect, but there is no better plan than placing them in some open situation, and mulching to maintain an even tempe- rature and regular state of moisture in tho soil. To Propagate Hardy Herbaceous Plants. This may be readily accomplished either by division of the roots in autumn or spring; by cuttings put in on a shady border in summer ; or in some instances by seeds sown in autumn or spring. Cuttings of the young shoots will root readily about June and July in a cool shady border. It is best to prepare a small bed by adding sand, rnad-scrapings, and leaf-mould, as the cuttings can be put in when convenient. Pansiea, Pinks, Carnations, Phloxes, Pentstemons, and all hardy plants can be propagated in such a bed. A few pliable sticks can 158 THl GARDEN. [Aug. 12, 1876. be hooped over the cuttings, and a mat or some protecting covering placed over on bright, sunny days. The cuttings may be from 2 in. to 4 in. long, according to what kinds they consist of, and should be cut across just under a joint, with a sharp knife ; if the knife be not sharp the tissues, instead of being smoothly cut, will be bruised and so damaged as to stop all circulation, and the cutting will probably damp off and decay instead of forming roots. Unless the leaves are large and flaccid it is not advisable to remove more than the bottom pair, BO as to give room to insert the cutting, for the leaves have a most important function to perform, and the more leaves a cutting carries, always provided they can be preserved from flagging, the sooner roots will be formed. Of course if a hand-light or a close frame be at hand, to keep a close atmo- sphere round the cuttings, their rooting will be more expe- ditiously and certainly accomplished. Sowing Flower Seeds. Most hardy annuals, biennials, and perennials, will do better if sown in August than if the sowing be delayed till spring. Not only is it the most natural time for sowing, but the land is usually warmer and the seeds lie a shorter time in the ground before germinating, and they consequently produce a stronger and healthier plant, and they are less liable to bo eaten oil by insects ; and, lastly, much time is gained, for, instead of sowing the seeds in March, you have young hardy plants ready to put out. Seeds of hardy biennials and pe- rennials are best sown in well-drained ground, arranged in 4 ft. beds, with a track or alley 1 ft. wide between them, for the convenience of weeding, thinning, and lifting the plants. The soil should be in a well-pulverized condition, and if too dry should be well soaked with water twelve hours before sowing. They may either be sown broadcast, or in shallow drills across the beds ; the latter plan is the best, because it gives facilities for stirring the soil between the rows of young plants. The drills can be made by pressing a 4 ft. rod or straight edge into the soil the required depth, according to the size of the seeds ; half-an-inch will be deep enough for all small seeds, and when the seeds are sown thinly in the drills, cover lightly with finely sifted soil. If the weather be hot and dry, shade by laying mats, or similar coverings, on the ground. If the patches be small, Rhubarb leaves will answer the purpose very well, and they are usually at hand ; they must, however, be removed as soon as the young plants appear. When annuals are sown in the spring in the borders where they are intended to remain, they are usually sown too thickly, and the thinning delayed too long, consequently they never attain their proper development — the flowers are poor, the growth weak, and the whole plant short-lived. This is the main cause why annuals are in many places so unpopular. If sown on good land, and such plants as Nemophilas, Saponarias, &c., thinned out, so that every plant has not less than half a square foot to grow in, they would present a much more satisfactory appear- ance than they usually do. The Large White Jasmine.— It ia a matter to be regretted that this is not more generally grown than it is, for it ia one of the sweetest, most boantifnl, and most useful Jasmines we have. It will RTow in almost any soil, and cover any honae or outbuilding with a mantle of beauty perhaps sooner and more effectually than almost any other plant. I was pleased to see attention called to this Jasmine (aee p. 97) j it ia a very fine variety of Jaaminum officinale, but scarcely so hardy as that kind. We have had some magnificent plants of it here, reaching to a height of from 10 ft. to 15 ft., but thoy have always got cat down after a few years with any extra severe weather. I am inclined to think that there is yet another variety intormodiato between J. officinale and J. grandifiorum, larger flowered than the com. mon type, but not so large as the J. grandifiorum. The latter is worthy of the back walls or root of a cool house. The flowers and foliage are almost as largo again as those of the common sort, and it ia one of the most usof nl fiowers for bouquets it to bo used immediately, but if many hours olnpao between tho making and using, the flowers must be gummed on at once. They are not very durable, though the Urge-flowored variety has greater substance than tho common kind. Both the Silver and Goklon Variegated Josmines belong to the common type. The Golden one is very beautiful in leaf and branch, tor both often become quite golden, but the flowers are poor, being smaller than those of the common Jasminnm officinale. These variegated Jasmines have, however, a special interest in a scientific point of view, as several of the old vegetable physiologists affirmed that a single bud or small scion of the Variegated Jasmine inserted in tho green caused the green plant to break into variegation far from the point of contact, and that also whether the bud or scion lived or died ; I have never, however, found auch results. — D. T. Pish. HAEDT FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. The noblest flower of the week is the large trumpet-like Neil- gherry Lily (Lilium neilgherrense), a noble, creamy-white, and richly-scented flower. The handsome Senecio pulcher, recently figured in The Garden, is in flower in the Hale Farm Nur- series. The double form of Clematis ereota is an effective subject on walls, or, indeed, on banks or stumps ; the quaint Gladiolus purpureus, or one of its forms, is in bloom at the Wellington Nurseries, as is also a brilliant Pentstemon (P. punioeus). The tall, vrhite Hyacinthus candicans is in flower at Barr's trial ground, where it is hardy. The Gypsophilas are seldom showy, but they are valuable for their numerous sparkling little blossoms, their freedom of growth, and pro- longed bloom ; one kind (G. dubia) has been in flower at the Wellington Nurseries for two months, and it is yet quite fresh and pretty. The double French and African Marigolds, and the various annual Larkspurs are very effective just now where tastefully disposed. Some of the Aconites, too, are very fine ; but the season has, on the whole, been very much against hardy flowers and flowers of all kinds, though it would be easy to counteract such results by effective mulching and watering. Influence of Coast Climate on Alpine Vegetation in Norway. — The meteorological maps of Norway show in a striking manner what great influence the ocean has on the climate, and, there- fore, the situation of a region relatively to the sea is of the greatest significance to the vegetation. The greatest variety of species is there found, under otherwise similar circumstances, in those regions which are best protected from the aea air, which is borne over the country from the North Sea and the Atlantic by the ruling south- west winds. . . . This appears in a striking manner when we pass in review those places which are remarkable for a rich Alpine vegeta- tion. ... As to the influence of temperature on the vital phenomena of plants, we know still so little, that we must confine ourselves to guessing. But we do know, however, that Arctic and Alpine species in the Botanic Garden at Christiana endure the strongest summer heat without injury, while they are often destroyed when not suffi. ciently covered during the winter. We know also that they have tho quality of vegetating at a very low temperature above freezing-point, Catabrosa algida, Banunculus glaoialis, nivalis, and many others grow on the borders of our snow-fields, and their roots are constantly wetted by the snow-water, which has a temperature only a little above freezing-point. As soon as the snow ia melted they begin to germinate. Mild, snowless winters, in which some warm days alternate with periods of cold, would be pernicious to plants of such a natare. The coasts in the province of Bergen (where the coast mountains are especially poor as regards botany, particu- larly in Alpine plants) have the mildest winters in Scandinavia. But the mountains and mountain. valleys, which are protected by our highest mountains and largesc glaciers, have a continental climate with a more rapid transition from winter to summer. In these regions, even in the southern part of the country, the Alpine plants often descend far into the valleys, and there endure a forcing snmmer.heot. In Vaago and Lom we find many of them in the corn-bolt (1200 ft. to 1500 ft. above the sea), nay, some of them have their greatest extension in the valleys ; and it is on the whole remarkable that many Alpine plants appear more frequently in the lower parts of the mountain region (the Willow and Birch belts) than in the higher parts (the Lichen belt) ; possibly the reason may be, that in the deep valleys and on the lower slopes there ia better shelter against the ocean than on the heights. — Axp.l Blvtt. [Groat importance must not be given to considerations of this character, unless all tho con. ditions of each case be understood. In some cases there ia a rich flora near the sea, partly owing to its influence. Tho influences of Arctic and genial seas would, for example, be very different. So far aa artificial culture is concerned we believe that a greater number of Alpine plants could be grown in perfect condition near the sea in Britain than in any inland aitoations wholly sheltered from its influences. — Ed.] Aug. 12, 1876.] THE GAEDBN. 169 Dracocephalum argunense. Tall Sea Lavender (Stafclce elata). The Tube-flowered Lily (Lilium neilgherrense) . Nyoterinia aelaginoidee. Sedam maximum. SOME HAKDY FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. 160 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 12, 1876. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. BROAD BEANS. These include Mazagan, Windsor, and Long-pod, -which are the earliest kinds of Beans that can bo produced out-of-doors (inasmuch as being perfectly hardy), that can be sown at any time during the winter. As a rule Broad Beans are not thought so much of in some quarters as Kidney Beans, owing to their being of a coarser character, but they are nevertheless much sought after. Generally they are not considered a very remunerative crop, inasmuch as they do not continue long in bearing. Broad Beans may be grown in almost any soil that can be kept moderately moist. The green-seeded varieties are generally preferred to the white ones, because they retain their green appearance when cooked, whilst the white ones become dark brown — a colour to many very objectionable. The green kinds are those mostly grown by market gardeners, as they realise higher prices than the white ones. Sowing and Planting. — Years ago it was the practice to sow Broad Beans in October, November, and December for the earliest crops, but this is now seldom done ; the plants are generally raised in pots, boxes, or frames, and afterwards transplanted to the open ground. This is undoubtedly the best plan when it can be adopted, as the ground that would otherwise be occupied by the seed can be ridged or roughly dug, and exposed to the weather to get pulverised and freed from slugs, snails, &c. By adopting the method of transplantation fuller and moi-e even rows can be ensured. The sowing should be made early in January in a frame or pit, from which frost is excluded, or a sowing may be made in heat in Febru- ary and gradually hardened oJI after the plants are up. The plants should be grown stout and strong, and be in readiness for turning out early in March, provided the weather be favourable. A south border, under a wall or hedge, should be chosen for them if possible, and after planting, it planks or thin boards can be placed edgeways on each side of the rows to protect them from cold winds, all the better. The rows should be planted from 2 ft. to 2g ft. apart, and the plants in the rows should be 4 in. or 5 in. apart. This will be found to be room enough for early crops if dwarf varieties be grown. If the weather be favourable throughout the spring the crop will be fit for use by the middle of June, which is as early as Broad Beans are generally expected to be fit for use. Successional sowings may be made in the open ground in January and Feb- ruary, and the principal sowings should be in March and April. If late crops be required, small sowings may be made as late as July ; this is, however, seldom done. In order to obtain late crops some growers, after gathering the produce from the main or summer crops, cut down the plants to within a few inches of the ground, then give them a good water- ing, and in a few days they throw out young shoots which eventually furnish a fair crop of late Beans, though, of course, not so fine as the previous crop. Others sacrifice part of the summer crops, and cut down the plants just as they are coming into bloom. The produce from these is small, and liner than that from plants that have previously borne a crop. Either of these ways is, however, preferable to sowing for late crops, inasmuch as the plants arc hardier, and being well rooted stand the dry weather late in the summer and the cold in the autumn. By this method Beans of fair quality may be had up till late in November, unless the weather be unusually severe. Sowings for successional and main crops may be made on open quarters, or between rows of Spinach or any other crop that will bo cleared before the Beans get very hi^h • the former, however, is best when ground can be spared. The seed should be sown in rows from '2i ft. to ;> ft. apart, the Beans being placed about t in. or 5 in. apart, and they may cither bo put in with a blunt dibble, or drills may be drawn for them iJ in. or 3 in. deep. Previous to sowing main crops the seed should bo soaked in water for a few hours to accelerate vegetation ; but for early crops it is unnecessary, as the ground is generally moist enough to answer the purpose. _ EAitTiriNO ur.— This is advisable for early crops, for it affords a slight protection to the plants during cold, windy weather; but for other crojis it is not needed. When the plants show suUiuieut bloom to produce a good crop, their tops may be picked out in order to enhance the setting of tho blooms and development of the pods. Whore tall varieties are grown some support should bo given them to prevent their being broken by the wind. The best support is thick twine tied to strong stakes driven iu the ground on each side of the rows. Long, slender sticks, tied to the stakes lengthways along the rows, will answer, but the plants are apt to get bruised against them when swayed to and fro by the wind. Vakieties.— Although there have recently been many new and valuable additions made to our lists of Beans, there are some of the older kinds that still unflinchingly maintain their position. The dwarf kinds of Mazagan are those generally grown for early crops, not because they are naturally earlier than the taller kinds, but because they can be grown in warm situations where taller kinds would not always be admissible, and can, therefore, be got earlier. Dwarf kinds are sometimes preferred for the smalhiess of the Beans rendering them more delicate-looking than some of the larger varieties. Of dwarf kinds Beck's Green Gem and tho Dwarf Fan are two of the best. The plants assume a neat, compact habit, are abundant croppers, and good in quality ; in this respect, however, Beck's Gem is preferable, on account of its green colour, that of the latter being a dullish brown. The taller kinds of Mazagan are not worth growing in comparison with tho Long-pods and Windsors, but where small Beans are preferred, they answer the purpose. The plants grow from o ft. to 4 ft. high, and pro- duce large quantities of pods 3 in. to 4 in. long, containing from three to four small Beans. The Long-pods are earlier than the Windsors, and are therefore preferable to them for first and second early crops. Of these there is no vai'iety better than Johnson's Wonderful ; it grows from 4 ft. to S ft. high, and is a splendid cropper, producing the gx-een pods from 7 in. to 8 in. long, full of Beans that are not excelled in quality. Carter's Mammoth Long-pod is likewise a very excellent variety. The Green Long-pod is largely grown in private establishments, the colour of the Beans when fit for use being of a bright green. The Seville Long-pod is a variety of Broad Bean that has been for many years iu cultivation on the Continent, especially in Spain, where it has done good service in the way of supplying food during the war. It well deserves the high commendations bestowed upon it, and ought to be in every good garden. The true variety, however, is somewhat difficult to obtain, inasmuch as long-podded Beans, in every respect different from it, are often supplied for it; while a Spanish Bean, very similar to it as regards seed, but short-podded, is sold under the name ; hence its in- troduction into English gardens is but slow. It is, how- ever, an early and long-podded variety, and quite distinct from any other. Its pods are tender, and fit for use ten or twelve days before the common long-podded sorts. It grows moderately robust, with one or more slender stems, according to the distance at which the plants stand apart ; its leaves are of a bright green colour, and its pods, three to six on each plant, are extremely long, measuring often 6 in. to 10 in. in length, and 1 in. broad; they are of a bright, fresh green colour, quite pendent, and contain from five to eight Beans, which are bright fawn. coloured, obovate, flattened, and the largest after the Windsor varieties ; being rather more tender than other varieties, they should be sown in a warm, well- protected border, which should be slightly covered with rough litter in the event of frost. Being only a moderately-heavy cropper, and not so liardy as some other sorts, it is not adapted for field culture in England, but as a garden Bean it is well worth attention. The Windsor is most suitable for main or late crops. The Improved Broad Windsor grows from 23 ft. to 3 ft. high, and has pods 5 in. to 0 in. long, and Ij iu. broad, containing two or three very large Beans of excellent quality. This is a much esteemed sort. H.ardy Pedigree is a good hardy sort, which much resembles the old Toker Bean. Green Windsor, Loxfoi-d Windsor, and a variety called Thick Windsor, are all good sorts, on which full dependence may be placed. Soil, MuLCiiiNn, and Wateking. — A deep, well-drained, strong loam is most suitable for Broad Beans, with the excep- tion of early crops, when the soil may be of a lighter character. Where tho soil is too light it may bo improved by treading it firmly whilst in a dry state, or planting without digging. If Aug. 12, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 161 the ground in which Beans are to be grown has been manured for previous crops, it will be found sufficiently rich for them, as a very rich soil will produce too luxuriant a growth, which is inimical to the production of pods. During dry weather it is a good plan to give a good mulching of half-rotted manure between the rows of main crops of Beans to save watering, but it should be done before the plants are in bloom in order to keep the roots in a moist condition whilst the blooms arc setting, this being highly necessary to the production of large full pods. Watering is seldom necessary for Broad Beans, if grown in a deep soil ; where, however, the soil is shallow, it may sometimes be needed, in which case it should be thoroughly done and afterwards the ground should be mulched. Beans are often gathered for table before they have attained half their size ; but this is not advisable, as they sometimes taste bitter when so small. The best flavoured Beans are those that are full grown but young. If any are required for soup a row miy remain until they become black-eyed. When gathering for exhibition choose young, long, straight, and shapely pods, as nearly alike as possible, and the more Beans they contain the better. S. IMPROVED WATBR-BAEEOW WITH EOTARY PUMP. Allow us to bring nnder your notice our water.barrow with patent rotary pump attached, for garden purposes. This pump ia of a novel character, Eitnple in constrastion, and efficient in action. It can be worked easily, and ia capable o£ drawing water from 6 to 8 ft., and throwing a continuous stream to a distance of 40 ft. The larger size will throw water 45 to 50 ft. It is a well-made article, and i£ treated with care (as any piece of good machinery should be) will last for many years. It is not absolutely necessary for the pump to be affixed to a water.barrow, but it can be adapted to any position. Baknakd, Bishop, & Baknakd, Norwich. [We have tried one of these machines — the largest used for garden purposes — and find that it works easily and throws water with great force to a distance of quite 50 ft. It ia an improvement on garden engines as ordinarily con. strnctod.] AUTUMN AND WINTER SALAD PLANTS. To produce a supply of salad, crisp and good, through- out the autumn and winter months requires considerable skill and forethought. It is an easy matter to supply Let- tuces and other materials for a salad bowl from the end of May to the end of August, but to maintain a constant supply from the end of summer onwards, through the dormant season, requires altogether a diSerent mode of procedure. From the end of June to the end of August is the chief time during which preparation should be made, either by sowing seeds or transplanting young plants already raised that will be required to keep up the supply during autumn and winter. The following are fair samples of what are likely to be required, Tiz. : — Lettuce, Endive, Radishes, Cresses, Beet, and Celery. Iiottuce. To produce stout and crisp Lettuce requires some care, and this is especially necessary during the heat of summer. Many select shady situations, but the propriety of this course is very questionable, at least during some seasons. Lettuces require a rich, generous soil, one that is tolerably strong, and which contains plenty of moisture. Soils naturally loamy, or of a somewhat adhesive character, produce the finest Lettuce iu hot weather, or, indeed, at any period of the year, provided no stagnation exists beneath. During the summer I obtain the finest crops of Lettuce on the ridges between Celery trenches. Successional sowings must be made to provide plants for the last four months in the year. A sowing should be made about the 25th of June, a second about the 10th of July, and a third about the 25th of that month. The earliest of these sowings will furnish the best supply from the open ground, and the produce of the last sowing made can be lifted and put into frames as soon as danger of frost severe enough to in j ure them is apprehended. Where there is frame accommodation, another sowing should be made during the first week iu August, the young plants from which should be transplanted in cold frames or pits, where they can be protected with glass during winter for an early spring supply ; for, if they get beyond a certain size, they will not stand without protection. The best variety for these sowings is the true Bath Cos ; it is very hardy, and very crisp and good. It is not advisable to sow the tender summer varieties after the beginning of July, for they are apt to suffer from damp when the cold and damp nights of autumn set in ; and the tenderer and more blanched they are the more susceptible they will be of being injured. The crop for early spring use should be sown about the 20th of August. These will be ready to transplant by the middle of September. Part of the plants should be planted on an old exhausted Cucumber bed for early use, and the others planted at the foot of a south wall to produce the first spring supply in the open ground. Those planted in the open will require no further attention until March, except occasionally stirring the soil and removing fallen leaves. In cases of severe frost, a few evergreen branches might be placed over them, to prevent them from being severely injured, which makes them later before they are fit for use. Lettuces require plenty of water in dry weather, and they rejoice in liquid manure ; but this should not be supplied too near the time of using them. Endive. This comes in to fill the blanks when Lettuces fail in mid-winter. It is seldom good in hot weather, and is very impatient of severe frosts and moisture combined. The end of June and July is the principal time for sowing Endive, and three sowings — one made the last week in June, another the second week in July, and the last at the end of July — will supply the table from October to March. The value of Endive depends upon the thickness of the heart, and upon its being thoroughly blanched. To secure a bulky heart, I have known some gardeners cut the plants over several times with a large knife, or the scythe, before planting, while they stood on the seed-bed. This induces the plants to grow stiff, rather than thin and weakly. Endive requires a rich and mellow soil; and rotten manures may be supplied with a liberal hand. It requires blanching before it is fit for use, and this can be done either by tying the leaves together, by covering it up with pots, or taking up the plants with balls and introducmg them into a dark shed, where they will be beyond the reach of frost. By liberal culture, and thus sowing in succession, Endive may be had in good condition through autumn, winter, and spring. Badishes. These, for autumn and winter use, must be sown at inter- vals, from the beginning of August till the middle of Septem- ber. To produce a crop fit for table at Christmas they must be sown in a frame the first week in October— say, a frame that has been used for Cucumbers or Melons— which should be filled within several inches of the glass with light soil ; sow the seed not too thickly, protect from birds, and give plenty of air when the weather is mild. Protect from frost by covering and mulching round the frame, and there will be plenty of Radishes for salad oe Christmas day. For sowing 162 THE GARDEN. [Atto: 12, 1878. in the open ground in summer and autumn, I prefer the white Turnip, and Wood's Shurt-topped and French Breakfast for the frames. Cresses. The Curled and Broad-leaved American are the most dis- tinct and useful kinds. For a constant supply of the Curled Cress, frequent sowings must be made, as it soon runs to seed ; 'the other lasts a considerable time, and bears without injury the severest frosts of vyinter. The American Cress should be sown at the end of July, iu drills, 8 in. apart, and thinned to 4 or 5 iu. asunder iu the drills. Water- cresses are generally expected to be found iu streams of water, but this Cress may bo had in great abundance, and of good quality, by sowing a row under the shade of a north wall, where it grows with great freedom, and will be found useful for the supply of salad. Beet. For salads, medium-sized roots are best. Beetthrives satis- factorily in a deep sandy loam that has been enriched for pre- vious crops. Ground for it should be thrown up into ridges and exposed as much as possible to the pulverising influence of frost. The seed should be sown in drills 2 in. deep and 1 ft. apart, and when the plants are sufficiently large to thin, they should be left about 9 in. asunder in the rows. The ground should be kept free from weeds by means of frequent stirrings with the Dutch hoe, an operation which should be continued until it cannot be performed without injury to the plants. The varieties which I prefer for general use are Henderson's Pine-apple, Nutting's Dwarf Red, Dell's Crimson, which is valued for the beauty of its foliage, and Egyptian Dark Eed Turnip-rooted, a handsome sort that turns in quickly, and one which is valuable for early use. Celery. This ia the most extensively used during autumn and winter, and occupies a larger space of ground than any other vegetable used for the same purpose. Celery, to be enjoyable, should be firm and crisp, not stringy, and should possess a peculiar nutty flavour. One of the essential conditions required in the cultivation of Celery is plenty of manure; with this, and heavy applications of sewage in dry weather, it may bo produced in perfection. The manure should be thoroughly decomposed, and well worked through the soil. It is a very common practice to dig into the bottom of the Celery trench a spit of raw manure, with the idea of producing fine heads of Celery, but this is bad in principle as well as practice. The manure should not be used in a raw state, for its action is expected to be immediate, and, consequently, the mixture in which the roots are to ramify ought to be at once good and suitable for them. About the middle of February I sow for my first crop. The seed is sown in wide, shallow pans, and either placed on a gentle hot-bod, or started into growth in a Vinery. As soon as the seedlings are fairly up, or say half- an-inch high, the pans should be placed iu a somewhat cooler position, similar to the shelf of a warm greenhouse, close to the glass, or in a house wiicre the torapcraturo is such that the plants will keep growing, without being drawn up lanky and weak. By the end of March there will bo a number of young seedlings, about IJ in. high, ready for pricking out. For this purpose I have a gentle hot-bod prepared, on which is placed a frame capable of containing about 500 plants. The plants are carefully pricked out, and the frame is kept rather close, and shaded from bright sun- shine for several days; when the shading is removed, air is given, and by the first week in May they are ready for planting out in the trenches. The seed for the late crop, to be in use at Christmas, and to furnish a supply onwards for several months, I sow the first week in April. These are ready for pricking out by the early part of May. A hard piece of ground is selected, over which is spread well-decomposed manure to the depth of 2 in., on the top of which a little soil is spread about 3 in. thick, and the plants are transplanted, and attended to as regards shading and watering. In June they are planted iu the trenches, wliich are aljout 7 ft. from centre to centre, and three rows of Celery are planted in each trench, the spaces between the trenches being occupied by Peas, Potatoes, or Lettuce, as occasion may require. The first crop will be in good condition in September, and the last sown plants will keep up the supply through the latter part of winter, and on into the spring. There is a great advantage in pricking out the plants on a bed prepared with a hard bottom ; they form no tap-roots, and, when lifted to be placed in the trenches, they move with a dense and compact mass of fibres, which receive no check, and do not predispose the plant to run to seed. I always take great care in earthing-up Celery, placing the soil carefully round the plants with the hands, and it is well to be careful not to smother the heart by earthing it up in the young state. Most localities have their favourite sorts of Celery, and this renders it unnecessary to say much about them. This season I am growing Leicester Ked, Sand- riugham Solid White, and Hooley's Conqueror. There are other plants used occasionally with sakids, such as Tarragon, Burnet, Chervil, and Mustard, plenty of which may be had by sowing a little seed occasionally, according to the demand. Burnet and Tarragon are propagated by division of the roots. I have now exhausted the list of plants used for salads, except the Australian Cress, which is a valuable addi- tion to our Cresses. Q- R- Flij^TE 2CX:2CIII. LILIUM KRAMERI. (Drawn by Mrs. G. F. WILSON). This beautiful Lily was, together with other fine varieties, received by Dr. Wallace, of the New Plant and Bulb Com- pany, Colchester, from his collector, Mr. Kramer, from Japan, in the winter of 1871-72, accompanied by drawings of three kinds, one white, another the same size and colour as our illustration, the third similar also in colour, but much larger in flower and broader in the petal. This Lily was at first received with incredulity, the drawings were considered exag- gerated, and it was expected to turn out only a poor form of L. auratum. Subsequent experience has, however, fully vindicated its fair fame as one of the most delicate and beau- tiful species of the Lily tribe. It is believed to grow wild in Japan, on the hills at a level of from 3000 ft. to 4000 ft. above the sea, and ought, therefore, to be perfectly hardy in this country. The bulb bears the long journey to Europe badly ; until last winter, few importations of it have arrived other- wise than rotten. The bulb is small, resembUug a small L. auratum, but with softer and flatter scales. The young gi'owth also resembles that of L. auratum, but it is more slender, both as to stem and foliage; the latter is scanty, narrow, and pointed; the stems are devoid of leaves on the lower part. It flowers out-of-doors in July ; the tint varies from white or white suffused with a lilac-blush to a rich purple, some of the deeper tinted forms being very beautiful. It ought, when established here, to be as hardy as in its native habitat. A very fine specimen of L. Krameri album, with three flowers, imported last winter, has recently been in blossom at Col- chester. These forms, when fully established, ought to pro- duce double or treble the number of blooms just named. There has been considerable difference of opinion as to whether this plant is really a species or only one of the many distinct hybrids or seminal varieties which Japanese gar- deners so well know how to originate and perpetuate. Mr. J. Cr. Baker, in his review of the genus Lilium, suggests that it is an hybrid between L. japonicum and L. speciosum, but neither flower nor habit shows the least trace of the last-named species. Mr. T. Moore, in some remarks which he has made respecting this Lily, suggests that it is an hybrid between L. auratum and L. japonicum, if indeed it be not a mere selection from L. auratum itself ; and adds that it is not clear whether L. Krameri comes from wild habitats or from Japanese gardens. Three forms are known, but Mr. Kramer, who sent the plant to this countrj' from Yokohama, says there are " many more startling varieties " of it. AVhether, however, it is a Japanese garden hybrid or a pure wild species, matters but little, since there can be no doubt that it is one of the most delicately beautiful of all Lilies, and well deserves the most careful culture. ;:uppleraent to The aarden. Office- 37, .Southampton Street, Covent Garden, London, W C KRAMER'S JAPAN LILY. (LILIUM KRAMERP Ans. 12, 1876,] THE GARDEN. 163 MY DIARY FOR SEVEN TEARS. By J. DENNING. August 14. — Sowing — Radiabea ; .alao Snowball and Stone Turnips ; Incomparable, Enfield Market, Imperial, Matchless, and Little Pirie Cabbages ; Mignonette, 100 pots various sizes ; Bath Cos, Hicks' Cos, Sfcanated Park, and All the Year Round Lettuces ; Prog, more, Walcheren, and Early London Cauliflower ; Mignonette under Bast Indian house for late cutting. Cuttings of Salvia, Gazania, and Balm put in; getting in cuttings of Pelargonium, Hydrangea, Fuchsia, and a few Achyranthes for stock. Planting — Sweet Wil- liams and Rockets ; layering Carnations ; planting Endive under all south walls, and in front of Pig.house and Orchard-house so that it can be protected ; Leeks. Miscellaneous — Basketing some Acinetas, putting them in Moss, rough peat, and crooks ; also some Stanhopeas. Re-basketing Dendrobiura Falconeri, all young roots being kept at top, scarcely any Moss being used. Potting Violets, alao aammer- struck Pelargonluma, Strawberry plants, and winter Cucumbera, using 6-in. pots. Tying Cytisuaea ; staking Salvias, Chryaanthe- muma, and October Raspberry canea ; nailing treea and Tomatoes. Shifting difEereut kinds of Masdevallia into larger pots; putting Cyclamens back into pit with a little bottom-heat; shifting pot Violets into their flowering pota. Syringing Gardenias every week with soap-suds for scale. Watering Carrots with strong lime-water and Broccoli with guano-water to try to kill grub. Gathering Apples and Early Anne Peach, out-door ; setting Strawberry plants much thinner, plants firac potted having rooted well to sides of pots ; getting np Garlic. Levelling ground for July Cabbage ; making a Mushroom- bed ; digging early Pea land and early Potato land for early spring Cabbage ; preparing some frames for cuttings ; stopping Tomatoes. Burning up hedge clippings and old Strawberry plants. Giving clubbed Broccoli plants some soot, guano, and salt, watering them in. Cutting down Pelargoniums ; thinning out late Melon plants ; thinning latest Turnips. Aug. 15. — Sowing — Cucumbers to grow in pota, also Prickly Spinach. Potting — Madme. Vaucher Pelargonium, for autumn ; pot- ting up double Wallflowers. Cuttings of Ageratum, Heliotrope, Agathaaa, and Verbenas, put in in cold frame plunged in ashes ; also of Golden Chain, Wenaleydale, and Stella Pelargoniums. Planting — Wallflowers, Endive on Potato land, and July-sown Cabbage. Miscellaneous — Tying Peach trees in houses ; putting nets up to Vineries to keep out waspa. Shifting Vandaa and summer-struck Pelargoniums into 48-8ized pots. Watering Celery, Lettuce, &c., and first Peach-house all over border. Taking np Seed Potatoes (Prolifica) j gathering Cherries, Melons, Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Grapes, Apples (Transparent Pippins), Pears, Gooaeberriea, Currants, Cobbler's Ball Plum; cutting Lavender; pulling up autumn-sown Onions. Digging some land for spring aimuals ; making pit for Endive and for Bath Cos Lettuce and latest Cucumbers (five lights); earth- ing-up Cauliflower. Aug. 16. — Soioing — Globe, Tripoli, and Strasburg Onions ; Schizanthus ; East Lothian and Brompton Stocks. Potting Veauviua and Dr. Liudley Pelargoniuma for winter. Putting Primulas into their flowering pots. Cuttings — Of bedding Pelar- goniums put in for the last time. Beginning to put in Salvias. Miscellaneous — Netting Plums. Putting Pinka in a sunny place under a wall. Gathering Peaches and Nectarines in orchard-house aud Peach-house ; alao last dish of Strawberries. Putting Shallots and Garlic under cover. Budding Roaes. Levelling ground for autumn Oniona. Hoeing up Strawberries, and manuring for early Cabbage. Getting wall sides ready for Endive. Cutting Laurels over a second time. Looking over Orchids for thrips. Top-dreaaing Calanthes, using loam, leaf -soil, and cow-manure above rim of pot. Clipping Yew hedges. Aug. 17. — Sowing — Hardy armuala and Beans for first crop in pota. Potting off aome late-sown Cinerarias ; also Pinks. Cuttings of Hollyhock and Senecio put in. Miscellaneous — Planting Antir. rhinums. Pricking out Stocks and Sweet Williams. Tying Dendro- biums. _ Netting some bunches of Grapes. Shifting the largest Cinerarias for early bloom, some Musk seedlings and Bouvardias. Watering flower garden ; early and late Peach houses. Gathering a few Jargonelle Pears. Lifting Ashtop and Handsworth Potatoes for seed. Giving half a row of Celery a final earthing np ; giving one row of Celery a " next to last" earthing np. Running soil down to two more rows. Earthing up "next to last" sown Cucumber. Making a pit ready to receive Cinerarias ; making a bed for Violate ; making ready winter Cucumber house. Mowing woodland walka. Oiling with paraffin American blight on Apple trees. Thinning late- sown Carrots and Turnips ; also laat-sown Mignonette, aud taking old flowers off in order to encourage them to grow again. Aug. 18. — Sowing — Chserophyllum bulbosum. Radish, and alao Spanish Radish, Silene pendula and S. p. alba, Nemophila inaignia and Pansy ; likewise laat Mignonette. Potting — -MaadevalUas and Odon. toglossuma. Cuttings — of Nasturtium, Gazania, Petunia, &c. put in. Planting — Jnly.aown Bath Cos Lettuce. Layering Strawberry run. nera for planting ; alao Chrysauthemuma and Anne Boleyn Pinka. Miscellaneous — Pricking off the latest-sown Cinerarias. Getting Peach treea tied. Tying up Stephanotie, AUaraandaa, and Roses. Shifting Intermediate Stocks into 6-in. and 8-in. pots. Re-arranging conservatory. Watering last-planted Celery and Vegetable Marrow. Gathering Denniston'a Superb Plum, Sugar-Loaf and Oslin Pippin Apple. Making land ready for Bath Cos Lettuce, July-sown Cabbage, and Endive ; alao for Leeks aud Wallflowers. Top-dressing with live Moss Orchids on which Mosa is decayed. Putting manure in for Mushroom bed. Getting all boilers ready for work again. Putting in ridge for winter C ucumbers. Mowing off one bed of Parsley to get it to grow, for winter. August 19. — Sowing — Beck's Gem Pea. Potting — Scented- leaved Pelargoniuma. Cuttings — Of Veronicas, show Pelargoniuma, and a few more Mangles' variegated put in. Miscellaneous — Layer, ing Hautbois ; staking all dwarf Mignonette that is ready ; moving Primulas from behind wall to pita ; putting late Cockscombs into Melon pit ; gathering aome Jargonelle Pears, Peaches from lateat tree, Apricota, and Apples ; preparing ridge in winter Cucumber pit, consisting of one part leaf-soil and two parts loam ; turning Mush- room manure every day ; beginning to be more careful to pull up shading from Orchids when cloudy ; earthing-np late winter Greens ; thinning out last-sown Turnips and latest-sown Mignonette ; stopping straggling shoots on early Vines ; exposing Peaches out-of-doors ; taking runners off potted Strawberry plants ; taking off breaatwood from wall-treea. Plants and Flowers in pots ready for house-decoration :— Jnaticias A^rostiB pulchella Moss Rosea Musk Micfnonette Heliotrope Stocks Blue Cornflower Bouvardias Zinnia elegana Calceolaria Sweet Pea Scarlet Geranium Carnations Fuchsia Lilium auratum Frencli Geranium Clove Carnation Hydrangea „ lancifolium Double Geranium Roses Lobelia Dianthus Hedwe- Scutellaria Mocci- Gardenias Pelargoniums gi niana Pansy- Cockscombs CalUopsis Godetia in variety Spiraea Petunia Lilies Balsams Stephanotis Myrtle THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINBS. Striking Cuttings. — Many find conaiderable diflioulty in strik- ing Tricolor Pelargoniums. The want o£ anccess with these, as com. pared with other kinds, ia attributable to the cuttings not being put in at the most suitable time, and managed in the way best calculated to insure their rooting. There is no way in which they do better than when put in about the middle of the present month. Inserting half-a-dozen cuttings, each in 6-in. pots, placed in the open-air right in the full sun, drain the pots in the usual manner, and fill them up with ordinary loam sifted, to which add one-half sand ; take the cuttings off and prepare them for putting in by removing the bottom leavea, leaving three or four at the top, according to the size of the cutting, remembering that the larger the cutting, provided it ia not too rank in growth and aoft, the better plant it will generally make in a limited time. Before putting them in allow them to lie on the potting-bench for a day, aa ia usual with the ordinary varieties, so as to allow the base to dry up a little. When they are inserted press the soil tightly to them and give a sprinkling of water. The prin. cipal advantage in striking these variegated kinds of Pelargoniuma out-of-doora at this season is that they will bear a good deal more water without danger of rotting than can be given to them at a time of the year which necessitates their being struck in pits or frames either with or without artificial heat ; the great point gained is that they do not lose so many leaves, that they root quickly, aud that they make strong plants before autumn, much better calculated to stand the winter than would otherwise be the case. The earlier in the summer suitable cuttings can be got the better they will succeed managed in this way. A dozen plants rooted thus early and kept on growing slowly through the winter, will, at bedding-out time, fill aa much space as double the number of late-atruck small plants. Amateurs who have not had much experience in cutting.striking, will find it an advantage at this time to put in cuttings of all other kinds of bedding Pelargoniuma which they grow. Put in now, not one-fourth the loas and disappoint- ment will be experienced which attends later-rooted stock, and where there ia a deficiency of ° room they may be left without potting off until the beginning of March. Verbena cuttings should be got in at 164 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 15, 1876. once; I hare alwaya foand these to strike b33t at this season in a colj fraaio facing the north, aud kept moderately close : choose the softest cuttings that can be got j these are generally procurable near the base of the plant, and shoald be taken off before they have formed flowers, in the way that the extremities of the shoots will have done, and in which condition they root very slowly, or not at all. The cuttings ought to consist of about two or three joints of the extreme end of those soft shoots, patting them in in 6-inch pots, filling them up to within an inch of the rim, and placing an inch of sand on the surface; a dozen cuttings may be put in each pot, keeping them constantly moist, and giving no more air than will just keep them from damping, but not enough to cause them to Hag, for, unlike Pelargoniums in this respect, if left to droop much, they rarely succeed. The usual bed. (Hds varieties of Lobelia shoald also now be put in, selecting and treating them similarly to Verbenas ; where a sufficient stook of spriog-struck Verbenas and Lobelias bas been kept in pots to pro- once cuttings in the winter, these must not be allowed to suffer for want of root-room, nor allowed to become a prey to thripj, red spider, or mildew, to all of which the Verbenas are especially liable; neither should they be permitted to produce many flowers, or the effact will be their getting into a hard stunted state, which will much impair their capabilities in regard to producing cuttings. The fine old Lobelias of the cardinalis section are not now nearly BO much grown as they deserve to be ; if these and some other similar habited subjects were used in enfficient number amongst bedding plants of more procumbent habit, much of the objectionable formality of the latter would be avoided. They are easily grown, easily wintered, and most effective in appear, ance. There are now a number of fine hybrids varying much in the shade of their flowers, and also in their size and substance. It is well for those who purchase new expensive varieties of Dahlias to strike a few oattings of each at this time, as it sometimes happens that the old roots perish through the winter, in which case cuttings struck now will supply their place, and will often produce cuttings in spring more freely than the larger roots ; they should be taken off at a joint similarly to the spring cuttings, inserting them singly in 3-in. pots with a little drainage in the bottom, and filling with fine sandy soil, with a little sand on the surface ; keep them under bell, glasses, or in the garden frame, shaded from the sun, and snfiioiently moist to prevent their flagging. In this way they will root through the pots, and not require more room, as they will get sustenance from the roots that thus get into the soil through the little pots, the latter getting quite filled with the tubers. When the tops are ready for removal in the autumn, the pots with the roots in them will merely need putting in a dry place out of the reach of frost. Early Potatoes.— The tops of which through the late intensely hot weather have died down sooner than usual, shoald at once be taken up, as nothing is gained by leaving them in the ground after they are ripe ; on the contrary, there is danger of their super-tuber, ating, which they will be liable to do should they remain out until heavy rains come. My own practice for thirty years with such of the early varieties as were intended for planting has been to take them np as soon, or a little before they were ripe, to pick out the middle, sized ones and lay them on the ground, fully exposed to sun and air, till they were of the darkest green colour, afterwards putting them thinly in shallow boxes, placed until planting time in the spring in a building where they can get a fair amount of light so as to keep the spronts which they make growing slowly, short, and very stout. The light is never excluded from them from the time they are lifted till they are planted unless when it is necessary to protect from frost. For some years I have never used any manure for Potatoes except 60ot,salt, and lime, in some cases when the land is poor assisted by a sprink. ling of guano sown broadcast over the ground before it is dug previous to planting ; the result has been that even in the worst years of the disease I have never lost more than five per cent, of early and second early sorts. I simply notice these matters now from the necessity of treating Potatoes that are intended for planting from the time they are taken np in a way that will prevent the tubers from being subjected to the weakening, exhausting treatment they too often undergo previous to planting. The voluminous correspondence that is yearly written on the management and cultivation of the Potato— much of it opposed to the results of the best practice of the most observant growers— is so perplexing to amateurs that they are frequently completely at a loss what course of treatment to follow to afford a reasonable chance of securing a crop in seasons when the disease is prevalent. Turnips.— The ground that is cleared from Potatoes, Peas, French Beans, and similar crops, should at once be sown with Turnipa ; not a day should be lost in getting the seed in, as upon this depends the crop getting to a useful size before growth is stopped by the cold weather. rr j Cabbage. — JIake another sowing of Cabbage. Where a service, able crop is required there is nothing better than Enfield Market to come in after any of the smaller more early kinds. Some object to its being too large ; this objection may hold good it it be allowed to attain its full size, but the best way is to commence cutting it early enough, and there is no variety I have ever grown that makes suoh a quantity of useful sprouts after the first cutting ; to assist the production of these, from the crop that has already been cut the old leaves should be cleared off the stools : by this means slogs and caterpillars that harbour in them are got rid of. The ground should then have a good soaking of moderately strong manure.water. Hadishes. — Of these a sowing should be made every three weeks now in rich ground ; these will be much better in quality than such as have been coming on through the middle of summer. Where Mustard and Cress are required they should be sown every ten days ; these, with Radishes and Lettuce, must, to have them fit to eat, be regularly well watered, without which it is impossible to have salad of good quality. I have heard some gardeners speak against the necessity of watering in the kitchen garden, asserting that by deeply trenching, sufficiently manuring and mulching, watering was not required ; but the chief reason why the productions of the French salad growers are better than ours daring the snmmer months is that they are continuously supplied with copious applications of manure water so as never to allow tho crop, from the day the seeds vegetate until it is gathered, to want moisture. Celery, more than most crops, will now need to be well soaked with water ; if the varieties grown are such as are at all inclined to run to seed, they are sure to go oS in this way in a season like the present if not watered before the plants flag. After a good soaking 1 in. or 2 in. of soil may be put to even the late crops ; it will prevent the roots, which lie close to the top and are still further encouraged to the surface by watering, from being so soon dried np, aud will diminish evaporation. Late Peas should have a ridge of soil drawn on each side ot the row, and within 2 in. of it, so as to confine the water, which should be applied without stint, or it will be impossible to keep them from becoming a prey to mildew. One good drenching, so as to moisten the soil down as deeply as the roots descend, will be of more service than half-a-dozen partial applications. Scarlet Runners must be similarly treated, or the produce will not only be small, bat the bearing capabilities will be so far reduced that the blooms will refuse to set at all. These aud all other crops will be much benefited by mulching 3 in. thick with littery manure ; if the land be at all poor, nothing is better than to use it fresh from the stable, laying it on before the water is given ; by this means the fertilising elements ot the manure are immediately washed down to the roots of the crop, upon which they at once act beneficially. Stoves. The great heat wa have lately experienced will cause a rapid increase in the numbers of all insect-pests, and unless means be at once taken to keep them down their destruction will be a work of some considerable difficulty. The worst to contend with ai'e mealy bug, as they insinuate themselves in every crevice about the plants, and even in the ties and sticks supporting the same. There is no better way to eradicate these at this season than to use a soft sponge and give them a thorough hand-washing, as any mixture made sufficiently strong to destroy these marauders would be sure to injure the leaves in their present tender state, it not to destroy the plants altogether. Tho same remark applies with less force to the turtle or brown scale, but as they do not increase at anything like the rate of mealy bug, it is a much easier matter to hold them in check, or even to get rid of them altogether. Thrips are more readily dealt with either by dipping the plants in strong Tobacco, water, or by giving the house two or three good fumigations in quick succession ; but where the plants ore in pots, and ot moderate size so as to admit ot being readily handled, the former method is the best, as the Tobacco-water not only destroys the living thrips but those in embryo as well, especially if made more penetrating by having a small lump of washing soda dissolved in it, or an ounce or so ot Fowler's Insecticide added to each gallon of water. This will soak through the varnish-like covering with which the thrips' eggs ore coated over, and so carry the strength of the Tobacco in with it, thus making much cleaner and more durable work than the smoke alone would do. In cases, however, where large plants, root climbers, &o., are infested with these pests, tho latter mode of extirpating them mast bo resorted to as the only practicable means of getting rid of such troublesome enemies. Those who wish to be clear ot the above should assail them the moment they show themselves, for if left alone for only a short time daring the present hot weather they do a great amount of injury, and entail a vast deal more labour and time Ata. 12, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 165 in the end. Where roof climbers are grown, all snperflaons growth should now be cnt out, so as to admit plenty of light and air to the plants beneath, to aid them in maturin;; their growth. No stove, however small, should be without a plant of Boagainvillea speciosa, which can either be grown in a pot or planted out, according to the space that can be allotted to it. Whichever it may be, the roots should be entirely under control, and the top so trained as to be near the glass and fully exposed to the sun, without which it is impossible to ripen the wood properly, and unless this be thoroughly matured they seldom produce much flower. To assist in this ripening process, the plants should now be kept moderately dry at the roots, in. creasing the same by degrees till flagging takes place, as it is only rather severe drying that will cause them to produce a profusion of those lovely mauve-coloured leaf-bracts that renders them so exceedingly attractive and of such great value for cutting. By getting them to rest early, they may be had in bloom much sooner than if they are allowed to grow on and ripen off naturally in the autumn; and as the coloured leaflets last for some months, rather improving by ago than otherwise, it is very desirable to have them in. as soon as possible. In cases where the growth of these has been allowed to become at all thick, the strongest and most sappy -looking pieces should at once be cut away in order to admit light and air to those of medinm size, which alone produce flower in a free, satisfactory way. The robust, free-growing habit of B. glabra, when planted out, renders frequent attention necessary to keep them properly thinned and regulated, without which they soon become a confussd mass, and are then most difl^cult to separate or get in anything like order again, the hook. like thorns lacerating the leaves of the shoots left on, rendering them shabby in appearance. The supply of water to this variety should now be somewhat diminished, but not to anything like the extent of what is advised for the other, as B. glabra will continue to grow and produce flowers till near Christmas, if in a suitable situation. Any of this variety in pots that have been kept back for late bloom, ing should now be afforded plenty of light and air, and liberally assisted by giving them plenty of manure water ; as, when confined to such a limited feeding ground, their free-flowering habit renders help in that way absolutely necessary to maintain the plants in health and keep the leaves a good colour. AUamandas that have been loosely trained or slung to the rafters with a view of transferring them to suitable trellises for removal to the conservatory, or for other uses, should now be carefully tied down by bringing the shoots into position gradually so as not to give them too sharp a bend, the effect of which would be either to break them off or to stop the flow of sap as to starve the flower-buds. Any plants of these that were got into bloom early and are now becoming exhausted, should be placed in light, sunny positions in the stoves, where they can have plenty of air to assist in maturing their wood. By getting a portion of the stock early to rest, the same may be started immediately after the turn of the year, so as to get them in bloom at a time when their large, showy flowers are most valuable. Cuttings struck in the spring may still be grown on by giving them a shift into larger pots and keeping them in a growing atmosphere where they can get plenty of light to prevent them from drawing. AdiinLenes. — These should have every attention as they go out of bloom to assist them in forming and ripening their tubers ; the best ' place in which to treat them at this season for that purpose is a pit or frame where they can be kept moderately close and shaded, in addition to which they should be freely syringed overhead that the leaves may be maintained in a fresh, healthy condition. Aohimenes are too frequently stowed away directly they cease flowering or become the least shabby, and water entirely withheld from them, a course of treatment the reverse of what they require, as it is just at that time assistance is needed in rendering the drying-off process gradual and natural. By affording the first batch a little extra atten- tion they will form an abundance of flue, large tubers, superior in every way to any that can be obtained from those now coming on, which may therefore be discarded as soon as they have discontinued blooming. Gesneras, such as cinnabarina, exoniensis, and zebrina, are among the most useful autumn and winter.blooming plants, inde- pendently of which the great beauty of their rich velvety -looking leaves makes them quite worth growing for decorative purposes. They delight in a rich, vegetable soil, such as leaf-mould and peat, which may be used in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to one of the latter, or the peat may be substituted by adding a less quantity of rough fibry loam. This must be kept free and open by using some sharp clear sand in order that the great quantity of water they require while making their growth may pass readily through. In re-potting any of these see that the old ball is not dis. turbed any more than is necessary for the purpose of removing the crocks, as most of the fibre they make will be found clinging around the insides of the pots. Sericograpliis. — Plants of this should now receive their final shift, and be kept growing on by affording them a genial atmo. sphere, which may be brought about by copious syringing just before clearing the house or pit in which they are growing. Keep the plants well up to the glass, so as to induce a close, firm, short-jointed growth, without which they do not produce flowers freely. Serico. graphis, like most other stove plants, is subject to mealy bug, which if not seen to, will soon cripple the tender points of the young shoots and stop them from blooming. The plants should therefore be thoroughly looked over to see if any have effected a lodgment, and if so, they should be carefully removed by using a small soft brush or feather. Euphorbia jaoquiniseflora. — Give plants of this a light, airy Dosition near the glass, and stop any strong shoots that appear likely to take the lead, which will cause them to break back and afford good sprigs for cutting. Any that are at all pot-bound will be greatly benefited by giving them an occasional watering with liquid manure, which may also with advantage be applied to most of the stove stuffa now being grown on for winter blooming, especially to that portion confined in small pots to be used in vases for table decoration or similar purposes. Eucharis amazonica. — Valuable as this is at any season, it is never more welcome than during the autumn and winter months, a time of year when such choice blooms aro doubly appre. ciated. Fortunately they may bo had at that season almost as readily as at any other, provided there bo the necessary convenience for growing them and a good stock of plants to work with. Where this is the case, a portion of the plants should be always resting and others coming on in different stages, so as to keep up a constant succession of flowers for cutting or other purposes. Those intended for blooming during October, Jfovember, and December should now be at rest in a cool house or pit, where they have only had just suffi. cient water afforded them to keep the leaves alive and fresh. If a portion of these be transferred into brisk hothouse heat and kept well supplied with tepid water, they will soon commence to throw np their flower-spikes, and when these are cut the plants should be grown on for a time before they are again put to rest. Owing to the rapid way in which the bulbs increase in number, frequent division and re-potting are necessary, in order to renew the soil and make a separation of the large flowering roots from those of smaller size, which can either be discarded or kept for stock. The soil that suits them best is rough lumps of peat, leaf-soil, and a sprinkling of rotten manure, to which should be added sufficient sand to keep the whole porons and open, so that the water may pass freely through. To aid this the pots must be thoroughly well drained by placing at least 2 in. of crocks in them, over which some half-rotten leaves should be scattered, to prevent the finer soil from rnnniug amongst them and filling the interstices. Water somewhat sparicgly for the first week or two till they get fresh hold of the soil, and then gradually increase the supply as the pots fill with roots, after which, if the heat be sufficient, they can scarcely have too much, either at the roots or overhead, where a good syringing is always acceptable. Pancratiums, such as P. fragrans and P. rotatum, are almost equally valuable, and may be had in bloom at different periods of the year by growing on and resting a portion of the stock in succession. These delight in a soil composed principally of fibrous loam, enriched with some mild manure, such as sheep droppings that have been laid aside for a time. — J. Sheppaed, Woolverstone Parle. Orchids. The whole of the heating apparatus should now be thoroughly ex. aminod, and any alterations and improvements which experience may have suggested should be done. In hot.water pipeS all leaky joints should be stopped, and in places where the pipes have sunk below their proper level they should be carefully raised and firmly secured ; a gradual rise to the extreme point should be maintained on the flow from the top of the boiler, and a gradual fall on the return to the bottom of it ; the piping should not be allowed to rise or faU more in some places than in others, but whatever inclination is given it should be the same throughout, for on this mainly depends the proper flow of the hot water. Sudden dips in the pipes, such as we of ten see in doorways, should be avoided if possible ; the pipes should in all cases have a small air-tap at the highest point on the flow, and this should be opened while the pipes are being filled (and once a week afterwards) to allow of the escape of air, and the free passage of the water ; the valves for regulating the temperature of the houses should be oiled and put in working order. Bvery boiler ought to be fitted with a screw plug or tap in front at the bottom, by removing which periodically a quantity of water may be run out, which will bring with it the sediment which collects even in the best constructed boilers, and which seriously interferes with the heating, and often in cast-iron boilerg causes them to crack at most inconye. 166 THE GARDEN. [Auo. 12, 1676. nient times j by the proper use of this simple contrivance a boiler may be made to last good twice as long as it would without it, and yet its value is often not recognised by boiler.makers ; any skilful smith, however, can make the addition. The fire-bars should also be examined, and if cast ones, those which have been burnt should be removed and replaced by new ones ; if hot-water bars, they should be scraped. The flues should be cleaned and repaired, and the whole apparatus put in proper working order; by attending to these matters now and by doing the work thoroughly, serious loss and much trouble may often |be averted. While such work is in progress, the warm houses, the fire in connection with which has been let out, should be shut up earlier than usual, and the damping down late in the after, noon should be omitted. — James O'Bkien. Kitchen Garden. We have at length been favoured with rain, which was sadly wanted, as all kitchen garden crops, early Potatoes excepted, have been languishing for the want of it. In this district early kinds of Potatoes have been lifted, and are a clean, though not an abundant, crop. Late kinds, I fear, will be seriously injured by supertubera- tion, so that where crops of these are anything like approaching ripe- ness I would strongly recommend lifting them forthwith. As yet, I have not observed the least trace of the true Potato disease, though what is known as the " curl " is pretty general in gardens round here, especially among American varieties. There are three kinds of vegetables which at this period demand especial attention, viz. : — Winter Spinach, winter Turnips, and Onions. The first should be sown immediately. It may be sown as late as the beginning of next month with fair prospects of success, but the present is the best time, unless we knew that the autumn will be mild and open, and then it might be well to defer sowing for a week or two. As regards Turnips, it has been a matter of some difficulty to get them good this season, but now they will be likely to do well, as the ground is cooler than it has been and the fly rarely attacks the autumnal sowings. The only variety which we sow at this date is Chirk Castle Black Stone, being one of the hardiest, and also one of the best quality in almost all soils. Wood, ashes or soot incorporated with the soil when digging ai-e the best manure for Turnips, and a dusting over with the same as soon as the Beed is up is a sure remedy for fly. Onions of the White Tripoli and Giant Rocca section should be sown immediately in drills a foot asunder ; and if ground be no object, sow where they are to stand permanently, but if ground be scarce, they may be sown thicker, and transplanted in the spring. The finest Onions, however, are produced when well thinned, and allowed to remain where sown. The ground for this crop cannot well be too rich or too deep ; that which has produced the Peas will be a safe position for them. Cauliflowers : Early London, Dean's Early Snowball, and Walcheren, should be sown now on a south border easy of protection to stand the winter. As soon as large enough to handle prick out some in frames to insure a supply of plants in case of a severe winter. Some sow in frames, but the plants are never so sturdy as when sown in the open border and pricked off into frames when ready. It is on this sowing we depend for our best as well as earliest supply of Cauli. flowers during tho whole year. Thin out the seedlings of Lettuce and Endive, and sow in quantity such sorts as the Black-seeded Bulb Cos, All the Year Round, Stanstead Park, and Hardy Hammersmith. Sow Radishes, Turnip-rooted kinds, and the Black Spinach ; and to all other small saladings attention should be paid, in order that the supply may keep pace with the demand. Stake late Peas and summer Beans, earth up tall Kales and Brussels Sprouts, and continue to plant them as ground becomes vacant. Gatlier French and Broad Beans when ready, even though they are not required, as they tend to prematurely exhaust the plants ; the latter kind may be kept in bearing for a very long time if not injured by overcropping, and if it bo well supplied with water and mulchings. A portion of tho earliest Celery may now be earthed up. As a rule, early earthing up is not desirable, and it should only be done to get a supply blanched for use early ; growth is much finer when allowed without check, besides which much labour is saved when it is large enough to be earthed up once for all. Weeds will grow quickly again now that rain has come, therefore in bright weather keep the hoe busy, and so kill weeds, and accelerate the growth of the crops at the same time.— W. Wildsmitu, Hechjiekl. Trees and Shrubs. Continue to clear away Furze, Brambles, Bracken, or any other rank undergrowth from young plantations ; whenever the latter are getting thick and crowded thinning should be commenced, breathing room and a free circulation of air amongst young trees during their eariier stages of growth being of the greatest possible advantage to them. The thinning need not necessarily be severe j on the con. trary, I would rather recommend thinning sparingly and often; the margins or outsides of plantations may, however, be more freely thinned, so as to encourage a healthy and strong branch growth to withstand cutting'winds, and be a means of protection to the interior of the plantation. As a proof how rapidly plantations grow when they get a good start by using strong vigorous plants well rooted, I may mention that I am now thinning a plantation the second time that has only been planted eight years; the trees are now from 15 ft. to 18 ft. high. Now is the proper time to commence pruning Hardwoods ; all side branches that are gaining too much strength, and that are growing out of proportion, should be foreshortened, and duplicate leaders, if any, may also be pinched back. The trimming of hedges and Laurel banks, that are usually done twice a year, may now have attention in that way. Keep recently.planted young hedges clear of weeds ; after hceing or pointing over the surface, a thick mulching of Grass or rough litter spread over the roots will benefit them at this season by keeping down weed growth, and preventin'g the plants from suffering through drought. In the nursery the budding of ornamental trees may be commenced ; Elm seed should be sown ; pinch oS contending leaders on Conifers, and any straggling branches that are growing out of due proportion may be restrained. Clean all superfluous shoots off the stems of young hard woods, and stake them if necessary ; the destruction of weeds mast not be neglected, although the late scorching weather which we have experienced must have rendered that kind of work comparatively easy. — G. B. THE FLOWER GARDEN. DAHLIAS IN POTS. We are possibly near the return of Dahlias into popular favour. True, they have little or no scent, and it became the proper thing to call them coarse. But things are mostly coarse or fine by comparison. Dahlias may be coarse contrasted with the finest Quilled Asters, but place them near the Sunflowers and they are fine. Much also depends on the stand-point. Carried in the hand or brought near tho eye, even bouquet Dahlias may be characterised as more or less coarse ; but place them rather far off, marshal them into a boundary line, back them up against a high wall, and the coarseness merges into showy grandeur. In size, form, and colour the flowers of the Dahlia are without a rival. What towering masses of petals piled one upon the other till the forms are built up into three-quarter spheres, per- fect models of symmetry and fit, displaying almost endless modifica- tions of form ! And then as to colour— in what family of flowers shall we find such spotless whites, soft yellows, brilliant scarlets, bright pinks, rich purples, and glowing golden-orange flowers as among the Dahlias ? And what matchless meltings of one colour into another, the petals being tipped and painted with contrasting or harmonising shades innumerable, so that in some flowers it is almost impossible to describe the colours more correctly than to say that in them many beautiful shades mingle and melt into each other. The best-sized pots for Dahlias are the 10-in. or 12-in. These sizes will grow the finest and strongest varieties to great perfection. If not divided in the spring some of the finer roots may need reduction, otherwise the roots may become almost too large for the pots. The tops, too, are better thinned to from one to three or four stems. Most of the best growers reach their highest results with one. stemmed plants, and such plants are most artistic for pots, whether grown up with standards, a form well adapted, though seldom used for Dahlias either in or out of pots, or dwarf or tall bushes. When Dahlias in pots are used for making screens, the side stems may be left. The Dahlia is a gross feeder and a vast grower, therefore it must have a rich soil. Smashed bones and tho parings of horses' hoofs form capital drainage. The soil should consist of rich, mellow, fat loam, still further enriched with at least a third of well-rotted manure. In the open many have great faith in leaf-mould, but thoio is no room for it in pots ; the root-run being so limited it must be at once rich and durable. To insure tho preservation of the soil the surface of the pots should bo well mulched over with, say, 2 in. of manure. Through this all water must pass on its way to tho roots, and of course it gets enriched on its passage. After tho plants are in full growth, and especially as soon as they begin to show flower, nothing but mannro water should bo given them, and if the drainage be ample — about an inch and a half— it is dilBcult to give them too much from July to tho end of August. As a preventive to thrip, and an encourager of a cleanly growth, overhead sprinklings twice a day are also of the greatest importance. As tho flowers reach perfection this overhead sprinkling must be managed with caution ; some of the more delicate colours get tarnished with wet, and the sun also burns Attg. 12, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 167 some of the darker flowers if it shine upon them in a wet state. A moderately sheltered place is best for Dahlias. They are very brittle, and easily broken by the wind, and should, therefore, not be fully exposed to it it it can be avoided. The plants should have their final shift in June or July, and be either securely staked at the same time, or fastened to a trellis, fence, or wall. If the former, caution must be exercised not to stake the root through in providing a holdfast for the head of the plant. As the plants grow they need to be carefully disbudded, pruned, and trained. To have fine flowers many of the buds should be thinned out. More than one-half of the lateral shoots should also be removed to concentrate more force into those that remain, and to give greater size and substance to the flowers. The greatest enemy of the Dahlia is the sing in a young state and earwigs in the flowers. The latter seem literally to feast on Dahlia blooms, and often provoke gardeners beyond all endurance. For slugs a sharp eye and a few nocturnal visits to the plants, and ti-aps of Cabbage leaves or cold Potatoes are the surest remedies. The earwigs are often wooUed off by tufts of cotton wool being placed around the flower-stems. Traps made of bits of Eeed thrust among the leaves and stems of the Dahlias also prove too much for the curiosity of the earwigs. They creep in to explore or rest, and can be blown out into a hot bath in the morning. By perseverance in these simple methods Dahlia pests are soon got rid of. To develop or conserve the bloom of some of the finer sorts shade is needful from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Circular boards, covered with rims of pasteboard about 4 in. deep, form the best shade for choice flowers. But such contrivances belong rather to the mystery of exhibiting than to the simple growth of Dahlias in pots for orna- menting villa gardens. It is, however, quite possible to grow show Dahlias in pots, and hence the hints about shading may be useful. As to varieties it may be said that the best for culture out of pots would also be the best for pots. It may, however, prove useful and interesting to give the names of a few of the more showy and beau- tiful varieties. Dahlias now divide themselves into four well-known classes — bedding, bouquet, fancy, and show. The bedding Dahlias only grow to the height of from li ft. to 2i ft., and are most profuse bloomers. Two of the best whites in this class are alba floribunda nana and White Bedder. In scarlet or crimson. Rising Sun, Scarlet Gem, and Fireball are specially good. Yellow or orange — Cloth of Gold, Orange Bower, Pluto. The Pet, Dwarf Queen, and Gem of the Dwarfs are three more very distinct and striking bedding Dahlias. The bouquet Dahlias have small, beautifully-formed, often very riohly.tipped or variegated flowers, the blooms being so small as to adapt them for the furnishing of vases, or even the forming of bouquets. The following, among others, are very showy and striking : — Burning Coal, yellow, with scarlet tip ; German Daisy, rose and white ; Fireball, bright orange red ; Guiding Star, pure white ; White Aster, good ; Little Nigger, blackish crimson, very fine ; Little Dorrit, rosy amaranth ; Goldfinch, bronze centre, golden yellow ; and Pure Love, beautiful, rosy lilac. Show varieties. — Flag of Truce, white, sometimes tipped lilac ; Anne Neville, large white j Dake of Edinburgh, very fine, deep yellow ; Fire King, yellow, with bright red edges ; James Cooker, purple, fine ; John Staudish, large red, very good ; Mrs. Sinclair, rose, tipped with purple ; Mrs. Stonoomb, pale yellow, tipped with fawn ; Ovid, fine puce ; William Lucas, yellow, edged with puce ; Thomas Goodwin, dark maroon ; and Florence Pontin, white ground, tipped with crimson. Fancy Varieties. — Butterfly, scarlet, brown and buff, very pretty ; Charles Perry, rose, suffused with red ; Empress of Austria, yellow, shaded with red, tipped with white ; Fancy Queen, purple, tipped with white ; Gipsy, rose, striped with maroon ; Hero of York, crimson, shaded puce ; Mazeppa, scarlet, striped with crimson ; Richard Dean, yellow-flaked crimson; Rev. J. B. Camm, yellow, flaked red ; Galatea, yellow, striped maroon ; Ebor, chocolate, striped maroon ; scarlet, tipped white. Perhaps these fancy varieties are really the most beautiful and useful for pot culture. The richness of colouring and infinite variety of shades must be seen to be either understood or appreciated. The culture of Dahlias in pots is a cheap as well as a pleasant hobby. Good flowering plants of all these we have named can be had at from Is. to 23. each. It is novelty that commands high prices in Dahlias. A new variety of last year would cost as much or more than a dozen equally good or better varieties of the year before. — " Villa Gardener." Mutisias at Bitton.— Mr. Hemsley is quite mistaken in supposing that M. decurrens has disappeared from our gardens. It is in fine flower here now, and I know of several places wbere it 1b growing well. He is also mistaken in supposing that M. Clematis is not in coltivation. 1 have it, and he will find it on sala at Osbom'Sa at Falham,— H. N. 'EiLi.uoKBis, A STATELY AEOID. (amoephophalltjs eitieki). This comparatively new introduction to our gardens is one of the finest of all the species belonging to this singular genus, and may be grown either as a pot-plant for greenhouse or room decoration, or for planting out on sheltered positions on the lawn during the summer months. It will be found to succeed best in a deep rich soil, and, when growing, it re- quires a copious supply of moisture. It was introduced from China to the Luxembourg Gardens by M. Riviere, in compli- ment to whom it is named, and we have repeatedly seen it used with excellent efiect as a sub-tropical plant in French parks and gardens, where it attains a height of from 2 ft. to 3 ft. The stems, which are stout, are dark green in colour, spotted with creamy -white or pale rose, and these are surmounted, as shown in our illustration, by dense umbrella-shaped heads of deep Amorphophallua Rivieri. green foliage fully 2 ft. in diameter. "When the leaves decay in autumn the tubers should be dug up and treated precisely like those of half-hardy Cannas or Dahlias, i.e., they should be buried in sand in a warm cellar or potting shed until spring, when they may be potted and started in heat. It may be readily propagated by dividing the tubers in the spring. We have seen this plant grown, and well too, as an indoor fine- foliaged plant, for which pni-pose its distinct habit, fresh green leafage, and quaintly-mottled stems, render it suitable. B. Salt-water v. Weeds on Walks. — Where the hoeing of walks can be easily done, that doubtless is a very good way of keeping them clear of weeds, but in many cases, from the nature of the walk, hoe- ing is impracticable, and weeding by hand is often so tedious, that the time spent upon it is unprofitable. Recently, to get over some hard walks that could not be conveniently hoed, and which were be. coming full of small weeds, the following plan was tried — a very simple one, which has answered effectually in two ways, viz., killing the weeds and saving time : — A water.barrow was filled with water, in which was put a bagful of salt, which was pretty well shaken about in the water till it got a good deal melted ; this made the water salt without allowing it to become so dirty as to stop the rose of the watering-pot. This done, the water was taken to where the operation was to be commenced, when the surface was watered with the mixture. Thus managed, a good length of walk is soon gone over, and the plan need only be tried once to prove its eSBoiency. Still, the work would require to be done very carefully if there are Box edg- ings, as if the water touch them they will share the fate of the weeds. This work can, however, be done with careful hands on walks having Box edgings with the best result. On a dry hot day merely damp the surface with the salt water. This is too much for the weeds to withstand. — M. 168 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 12, 1876. THE FRUIT CROPS. METROPOLITAN AND SOUTH-EASTERN DIVISION. Middlesex.— Boyal Horticultural Gardens, Chiswick.— Frait crops in this district are far below the usual average, with the exception of Strawberries. Apples and Pears have seldom been so scarce as they are this season ; of some of the earlier varieties of Apples, such as the Keswick Codlin, Lord Suffield, Jnneating's, &c., there is a moderate crop, but the later torts are almost entirely wanting, except here and there a tree. The same remark holds good with respect to Pears — Doyenne d'Ece, Louise Bonne of Jersey, and Bome others, have a fair sprinkling, more especially on sheltered pyramids, &o., but they are in general an indifferent crop. Of Plums there are scarcely any, the only variety on which there is any frnit on open standards being again an early sort — Rivers' Prolific. The crop of Currants and Gooseberries is also far below the average. Raspberries promised fairly, but owing to the excessive drought they became greatly shrivelled up jvist as they were beginning to ripen. The crops of fruits on walls and in sheltered situations are generally good. To recapitulate, we have — 1. Frnit only on the earlier sorts, which it may be assumed all flowered about the same time ; 2. Frnit on walla and in sheltered places. The earlier sorts mnst have escaped the blast. Given more shelter and we should have had more frnit. It was the cold, continued, blasting winds of May that did the mischief. — A. F. B. TTxbridge District. — Apricots very fine in some places, and many dropping off through the drought. Apples partial — in some orchards good, but falling very much ; Keswick Codlin, Manks Cod. lie. Lord Suffield, and the Russets seem to have sot best; very few Bassets grown now ; Wellingtons and Blenheims scarce. Currants good, dropping very much. Cherries very few. Peaches and Necta- rines good in places ; but if rain does not come to encourage growth, they will be small and inferior. Plnmsvery few ; even such kinds as Victoria and Prince of Wales, have not set so well this'season as nsual, and where they have set they have fallen very much, owing to the drought; in some places wall Plums are good. Figs middling. Pears have set well in many localities, but they have a stunted appear, ance, and are spotted, owing to the late frosts. Gooseberries area fair crop; Lancashire varieties have done well this season. Strawberries good, but soon over, owing to the continuance of dry weather ; they bU came in at one time. Raspberries middling. — G. Brush. Kent. — Eridge Castle, Tonbridge Wells. — Apples are scarce in this district except very late-blooming kinds, such as Court, pendu plat. Apricots half a crop. Cherries plentiful and good. Currants, Gooseberries, Raspberries, and Strawberries, are all very heavy crops; but they did not last quite so long as usual, owing to the great drought to which they were subjected. Figs, protected by a net for six weeks in spring, are an excellent crop. Peaches and Kectarines a full crop. Nuts plentiful. Pears on walls, late kinds, such as Josephine do Malines, Bergamotte d'Esperen, Knight's Monarch, and Jean de Witte, a full crop ; and on standards Swan's Egg, Loniso Bonne of Jersey, Seckle, Beurre d'Amanlis, and Beurro Giffard, are bearing well. Plums on walls are a fair crop ; on standards scarce. Damsons excellent. Our garden is 40 ft. above the level of the sea, has little or no shelter, and is fully exposed to tho spring winds, but happily it escapes tho late frosts. — J. Rust. Chevening, Sevenoahs.— Apples, Pears, and Apricots, are much under the average, but good in quality. Plums are an average crop, but small. Cherries good ; have been seriously affected with black fly. Strawberries and all other small fruits have been abundant and good, but small. The hot weather ripened them oft very fast ; therefore most of them are over now. Peaches and Nectarines do not seem to thrive well out.of-doors here, the soil being very stiff and cold. — Robeut Gray. Bedleaf, Tonbridge.— The fruit crops in this neighbour. hood are generally below the average. Peaches and Nectarines are about an average, all other stone fruits being scarce, except the Victoria and Prince Englebert Plums, which are carrying fair crops. Black, White, and Red Currants, are nearly an average crop, but Gooseberries have suffered much, first from the inclement weather in May, and next from the scorching sunshine which we have lately experienced ; great numbers were shrivelled np by the heat and fell off, leaving but a poor crop behind. Apples certainly not half a crop. Pears, on the contrary, are nearly an average crop, but they appear at present likely to be small in size. Nuts and Walnuts very scarce. — John Cox. Tunstall, near Sittingbourne.— Generally speaking there is a gieat dearth of good fruit this year. Pears on walls are particularly short. There is perhaps as good a show of Peaches as of anything, but these are much affected by the long drought. Gooseberries and Red Currants have been about halt a crop ; Black Currants very scarce, and have sold well. In the orchards in this part of Kent the Cherries have been a very short crop ; the Amber or White Bigarreau has been our principal mainstay ; the English have been particularly short. Apples and Pears are both deficient, except the more common sorts of early Pears. I should fancy really good keeping Apples will be both scarce and dear. We have also very few Plums ; of Giges very few. However, I am glad, after the last good bearing years which we have had, that the trees have bad a partial rest. — G. Web^. "Weirton, Miidstone. — Strawberries, which arj jnst over, have been a very heavy crop. Raspberries small and poor, owing to excessive heat and dronght. Cherries slight crops, with the exception of Morellos, which are good. Currants — Red, Black, and White, not a full crop but good for the season, and excellent in quality. Gooseberries a good crop ; many, however, have shrivelled and fallen off the trees instead of ripening. Pears of all kinds are a light crop, with tho exception of Knight's Monarch, which always bears well. Plums are a small crop, with the exception of the Prince of Wales ; the fruit of this, however, and that of one or two other kinds, is gumming and decaying on the trees, similarly to last year, and some trees, owinj to bearing heavy crops, have died back very much. Figs are not a heavy crop, the trees having suffered from late frosts in spring. Peaches are good, but Nectarines are rather thin. Hardy Grapes are a heavy crop, and look promisingly. In orchards and other plantations in which fruit is grown for market, the crops are very partial. Cherries were light but good in quality. Damsons good in some places. Apples are a small crop. Gooseberries not a heavy crop, bnt fine in quality. Red Currants a good crop for the season, the Dutch and Scotch are preferred, being more hardy than some of the others. Black Currants very thin ; the Naples variety, being the best cropper, is grown more extensively than other varie. ties ; Lee's Prolifio is on trial, but I do not think it better than the Naples. Filberts very slight, Cobs which are taking the place ot Filberts in some places, being better croppers, are good here and there. Walnuts are very thin. — W. Divers. Surrey. — The Denbies, Dorking. — Strawberries were good but soon over, owing to the drought ; Gooseberries and Red Currants very good ; Raspberries and Black Currants a fair crop, but small and wanting in juice ; Cherries, Morello and Florence, very fair crop, other kinds short. Apricots moderate. Peaches and Nectarines set very thickly, but owing to the cold winds that prevailed in spring, accompanied with drought and blight, the trees are in very bad health, and not likely to finish their crop satisfactorily. Plums moderate. Apples and Pears scarce. — J. Beesley. Deepden, Dorking. — Fruit crops in this dictrict are in general below the average. Apples are, with few exceptions, a complete failure. Pears are a thin crop. Apricots, unless where well protected when in bloom, are very thin. Peaches and Nectarines are fair crops, but the trees have been badly blistered. Plums are a very good crop, some even having had to be freely thinned. Cherries a good crop. Strawberries were also good, bat the later fruits were small, owing to the prevalence of hot, dry weather. Gooseberries and Currants very good and fair in quality. Raspberries about half a crop, and small. Grapes on walls very good, and free from mildew. Figs good on walls. Filberts plentiful. Walnuts scarce. The fol. lowing are our best varieties of hardy fruits : — Apples, Cox's Orange Pippin, Blenheim Orange, Ribaton Pippin (trees very much can. kered), Adam's Pcarmain, Dutch Mignonne, Boston Russet, Margil, Alfriston, Wellington, Lord Suffield, Bedfordshire Foundling, Cox's Pomona, Rosemary Russet, Mickleham Pcarmain. Fears: Jargo> nelle, Beurro d'Amanlis, Williams' Bon Chretien, Beurre Goubanlfc (a fine early Pear), Beurru prisd'Artois, Marie Louise (both standard and walls) ; the standards nsually produce the finest-Uavoured frnit, though not always the handsomest. Beurre Hardy is a very fine Pear, but it does not keep long. Beurre Superfin, peculiar in flavour. Duchess d'Angouleme, Williams' Duchess (a splendid Pear), Van Mons. Leon le Clerc, Glon Morceau, Urbaniste, Winter Nelia, Easter Beurro, Josephine do Malines (a very useful late Pear), Beurr^ Sterckmans (well worth a south or west wall), Prince Consort, Prin. cess of Wales, Victoria. Among Apricots Moor Park is the best, if it were not so liable to lose large limbs. The Kaisha and Breda are most useful for preserving, and they are free bearers. Of Peaches the best are Royal George, Violette Uativo, Late Admirable, Walburton Admirable (the finest-flavoured Peach grown, bnt a shy bearer), Bellegarde, Grosso Mignonne, Noblesse, Lord Palmerston (a fine, looking Peach with about as mnch flavour as a Turnip), and Salway, tho latest of all Peaches. Ot Nectarines we have Violette Hative, Elrogo, Hunt's Tawny, Stanwick, and Pitmaston Orange. Plnma con. siat of Rivers' Early Prolific (an excellent early Plum, and a sure Aug. 12, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 169 bearer), July Green Gage (a free bearer and good in flavour), Green Gage, Bryanston Gage, Waahiugton, Jefferson, Victoria (a most useful and certain bearer), Golden Drop, Diamond (a moat useful Plum for preserving), Kirke's, Blue Imparatrice, Ickworth Impera- trice, and Early Orleans. Small fruits of all kinds have done well ; among Strawberries the most nseful were Vicomtesse Herloart de Thnry, Sir C. Napier, and Sir J. Paston.— J. Bukxbtt. Sussex. — Petworth Park. — Apples, both dessert and cooking kinds, are thin in most places, though on some trees there are fair average crops. Cider fruit is a heavy crop in a few places. Apri. cots are average crops ; yesterday I gathered twenty dozen of fine frait. Cherries are thin on standards, but on wall trees the crop is good and the fruit excellent ; on pyramids average crop, consisting of Bigarreau, Napoleon, old Bigarrean, and Black Heart ; of May Dake and other early kinds there are none ; Morello an average crop both on walla and standards. Plums good on most wall trees, standards and pyramids very thin ; poor crop generally. Of Dam. sons there are fair crops in many places in sheltered positions ; both the Common and Prune Damsons are bearing now heavy crops. Strawberries have been abundant, and fine in flavour, but soon over, except those on north borders, which have lasted well. I am still gathering from Elton Pine and Frogmore Pine ; in open positions Strawberries have been completely dried np. Figs are an average crop, but some are beginning to drop owing to the continued dry weather. Grapes (out.door) are looking well. Mulberries heavy crop. Cranberries not so good as last year. Melons and Quinces thin. Walnuts very thin in most places ; I have seen a few good crops. Filberts and Nuts poor. Pears an average crop ; some few such sorts as Beurre Diel, Beurre Capiaumont, Bon Chretien, Louise Bonne, Bishop's Thumb, and others are even laden with fruit. Peaches are an excellent crop, especially under glass copings — no aphis, no blister, but on open walls there is a good deal of blister. Of Neo. tarines there is a good crop. All kinds of small fruit are abundant but small, except Gooseberries, which are of good size and excellent in flavour. — G. Beeese. Hampshire.— Heckfleld Place, Winclifleld.— In this neigh, bonrhood fruit crops are anything but satisfactory. Apples are a complete failure, owing partly to the superabundance of last year and the consequent weakening of the trees, and partly to the nn. genial weather which occurred when the trees were in bloom, quite three-fourths of the blossoms being destroyed by frost. Apricots are a thin crop, but very fine, having had an abundant supply of water. Peaches and Nectarines are also a thin crop, having suffered from the same canse as Apples, although well protected ; the trees are, however, making good growth, and a partial rest will be beneficial in recraiting their energies for next year. Of Cherries, there are good crops of all kinds, Morellos being nnuaually good. Blight (black fly) has been very troublesome on these, and nothing we have tried has proved so effective an antidote as frequent washings with clean water. Pears are variable, some kinds being heavily laden, others thin, and many are without fruit. The following kinds are all good, viz. : — Winter Nelis, Marie Louise, Thompson's, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Beurre Eance, Easter Beurre, Knight's Monarch, Ne Plus Menris, and Duchesse d'Angouleme. Plums on walls are excellent, bnt standards are bearing bad crops. Kaspberries, Gooseberries, and Currants have all been abundant, and the fine weather which we have had has allowed them to be gathered in fine condition. Straw. berries have also been excellent, but the excessive heat caused the supply to be of short duration. The best sorts for the light soil of this district are — President, Keen's Seedling, La Grosse Sncree,Vicom. tesse Hericart de Thnry, Sir Charles Napier, and Frogmore Late Pine. Of Walnuts there are very few, but of Filberts and Cobs average crops. Altogether the fruit crops are much below the average. — W. Wildsmith. Strathfieldsaye. — Fmit crops are poor hereabouts this season. Apples bloomed profusely, bnt we have vei-y few fruit, and the same may be said of Pears. We had frosts on most nights when they were in flower, but they did not exceed 3^ or 4", an amount which I have not found to affect the Apple blossom in former years. I attribute our almost entire failure to the long continued north-east chilling winds which we had. Apricots bloomed sparingly, and chiefly at the extremities of the shoots, caused, doubtless, by the previous season's growth being imperfectly ripened ; of these I have almost half a crop of fine fruit. I find the Early Orange very valuable, as it scarcely ever fails to bear a full crop, and the tree is much less liable to have limbs die off than any other variety with which I am acquainted. Peachesarea full crop and have made very good growth. From the Salway, which generally bears well, I have in most seasons been able to gather fine dishes of fruit in November. Plums are plentiful on walls, none on standards ; Cherries the same. Straw- berries and Baspberries were abundant, bat their season was un. usually short. Gooseberries are scarce, and Currants are less plentiful than usual. — James Bell. Berkshire. — Coleshill. — Apricots here are a light crop ; Plums on walla middling ; Cherries thin, with the exception of Morellos, which are good j Peaches and Nectarines very good ; Apples a light crop ; Pears scarce and rather small ; small fruits very good ; Straw, berries an avei-age crop ; Nuts scarce. — S. Haines. 'Royal Gardens, Progmore. — The fruit crop here and in this neighbourhood can scarcely be said to be an average one ; Apri. cots are thin. This is not owing to spring frosts, but probably through the continuation of cold weather during a part of April and May, causing the young fruit to drop. The E.oyal Apricot suffered the most, and all varieties continued to drop their fruit up to the period of ripening. There is a good average crop of Peaches which promise to be of good quality ; trees healthy and vigorous j Apples are generally below the average, although some sorts, such as White Paradise, Pomona, Frogmore Prolific, Kosemary Russet, and Codlins, are bearing heavy crops ; the Blenheim Pippin is generally scarce. Pears are an average crop, and the fruit is clean, and pretty free from spots. Plums are a thin crop, and Damsons almost a failure. Strawberries, which were late, were below the average, and of short duration— the best proved to be La Grosse Suoree, Sir J. Paxton, Sir C. Napier, James Veitoh, Cockscomb, Fairy Queen, and Frogmore, late Pine. Of bush fruit there is a fair crop, and of Filberts and Walnuts about an average. Cherries were very thin on standards, but a fair crop on walla. — Thomas Jones. Bearwood. — Apricots here are an average crop ; they consist of Moor Park, Turkey, and Early Orange. Plums good on walls, scarce on standards ; we grow Kirke's, Green Gage, Victoria, Jeffer. son's, Golden Drop, Prince of Wales, and Early Favourite, the latter an excellent early Plum from which I have been gathering for the last fortnight. Cherries a good crop and good in quality. Peaches and Nectarines an excellent crop ; sorts grown — Acton Scot, Noblesse, Bellegarde, Eoyal George, Stirling Castle, and Royal Ascot ; the two last-named are excellent Peaches for out-door purposes. Nee- tarines — Downton, Elrnge, Hunt's Tawny, Pitmaston Orange, Violette Hative, and White. Apples are a very bad crop. Pears an average one, good on walls, and heavy crops in places on standards. Straw, berries have been good, but owing to very hot weather setting in they were of short duration. — jAJtES Tego. SOUTH MIDLAND DIVISION. Huntingdonshire. — Ramsey Ahbey. — I never saw fruit trees of all kinds look more promising than they did last spring, but the long continuance of easterly winds sadly marred our pros, pects. Apples are a good half crop. The most reliable kinds this year are Hawthornden, Lord SufBeld, Codlins of various kinds, Waltham Abbey, Ribston Pippin, Fearn's Pippin, Cox's Orange Pippin, Red Quarrenden, Dumelow's Seedling, and Norfolk Beaufin ; the latter always bears well here. The best results are obtained from dwarf trees in the kitchen garden this year ; many of these are carrying a good crop. Peaches and Nectarines are an abundant crop, and the trees are healthy ; our trees have been protected in various ways, some with only a light protection of Tew sprays, and these latter are carrying as good a crop as others that were more elabo. rately protected. Apricots are very thin indeed. Plums — mostly thin, the only exceptions being Denyer's Victoria, Orleans, and Green Gage, the latter on a north wall. All the trees of Victoria are heavily cropped, both standards and on walls. Cherries, with the exception of Morellos, are a complete failure. Pears are very thin, only a mere sprinkling ; Beurre Diel is the only kind that is carrying a crop ; even Glon Morceau, that has never failed before here, is almost destitute of fruit. Bush fruits and Strawberries are most abundant. In some places in this neighbourhood Gooseberries and Raspberries have failed, but we have never had better crops. Nuts of all kinds are thin.— E. Hoedat. Bedfordshire. — Luton Hoo. — Gooseberries, Currants, Straw- berries, and Raspberries are plentiful here this season, and in good order for preserving. Peaches and Nectarines are a heavy crop. Apricots very thin ; and Plums, Cherries, Apples, and Pears are also thin. Nuts are about half a crop. — C. B. Buckinghamshire. — Wycombe Abbey. — Fruit crops, with the exception of Morello Cherries, Pears, Strawberries, and small fruits, are considerably below the average. There area few instances in which orchards show a fair amount of fruit, but in most places the trees are almost bare. The Apple crop is almost a failure, but early kinds appear to be more plentiful than late ones ; Keswick Codlin and Lord Sufiield are bearing best, and they are the best for culinary purposes at the present season. Plums on standards are very scarce, a remark which even applies to that sterling kind the 170 THE GARDEN. [Atjg. 12, 1876. Victoria, which is generally very fruitful ; bnt on walls there are fair crops on most trees. Pears are much more plentiful than Apples or Plums, but they will be small owing to the long.continued drought, combined with the vigorous hold which that invincible enemy the red spider has effected on the foliage in many places. Peaches and Nectarines are a fair crop but very late, a fact plainly indicated here in the case of the Early Beatrice Peach ; of this the first ripe fruit was gathered here on the 23rd July, whereas in the two preceding years it was obtained in the same condition at least a fortnight sooner. Apricots are very thin, but excellent in quality. — Geo. T. Miles. Ijatimers. — Apples are very much under average. Peats a little better, but still under average. Plums and Cherries an average crop. Peaches and Nectarines the same. Apricots under average. Filberts an average crop. With the exception of Rasp, berries, all small fruits are very abundant, but not so good in flavour as in former years, on account of there having been bo little rain. We have only had two slight showers during these last four months. — A. Donaldson. Hertfordshire. — Babley. — Apples here are very scarce ; the best bearing varieties among them are Lord Suffield, Qaarrenden, Hawthomden, Codliu, Pearmain, and Wyken Pippin. Apricots a partial crop; the best are Moor Park, Breda, and Shipley. Cherries a light crop, standards in many places a complete failure ; the best are Morello, May Duke, and Early Rivers. Plums very partial ; the best are Orleans, Victoria, Golden Drop, Damsons, and Early Prolific. Peaches a fair crop j among these Royal George, Princess Beatrice, and Crawford's Early are the best. Nectarines, Bellegarde. Strawbemes abundant ; the best are Sir Charles Napier, Garibaldi, Keen's, and Lucas. Small fruits plentiful. Pears partial ; among Pears, the best are Beurrd Boso, Doyenne dn Cornice, Jargonelle, Passe Colmar, and Lonise Bonne of Jersey. Nuts very scarce. Figs but little grown. — E. Bennett. Northampton. — Castle Ashby. — Fruit crops here and in the neighbourhood are very unsatisfactory this year. Of Apples we have none at all. Pears growing on pyramids a few ; on horizontal-trained trees also a few ; and on walls by no means plentiful. Apricots are a medium crop. Plums moderate on wall trees, none on standards. Peaches and Nectarines a few. Cherries none, except Morellos, of which there are a few. Currants — Black a fair crop ; Red moderate. Gooseberries good. Raspberries a few, suffered much by heat and drought; fruit inferior. Strawberries a good crop, but of short dura- tion and small. There is a fair crop of Walnuts and Cobs. All kinds of out-door fruit are and will be, I fear, very inferior in size and quality this season. — 6. Beech. Burghley, Stamford. — Except small fruits, such as Cur. rants. Raspberries, Strawberries, and Gooseberries, all other fruits are much under average. Strawberries have been abundant and good ; among them I find none equal to Sir Charles Napier ; this season, in yearling plants, they have been both prolific and of excellent flavour. Apples, of which we grow largely, are much below the average ; and of the best Apple for kitchen purposes, viz., the Wellington, there is scarcely aily ; after seven years' experience I find Dutch Mignonne a sure bearer, owing probably to its being a late-flowering kind. Keswick Codlin and Ilawthornden are also good early kitchen Apples and sure bearerp. Pears are best on standards grafted on the Quince, and the best variety is Beurro d'Amanlis. Of wall Pears we have but few, in fact almost none. To Apricots (Moor Park) we have 700 ft. of south walling devoted, and though all were protected with three thicknesses of old fish netting they are a very poor crop ; instead of hundreds of dozens which we had last year we shall not have fifty dozens in all. Plums are quite a failure; Victoria and Prince of Wales, which usually bear well, are, in common with other sorts, barren. Peaches and Nectarines on south walls good, but on west walls a failure. Of Pigs an enormous crop showed, but in conse- quence of the dry weather most of them have dropped off. Except Morellos, which are an excellent crop, we have not gathered a single dish of Cherries. — B. Gildert. Oxfordshire.— Blenheim.— All kinds of wall fruits in this neighbourhood are very thin indeed. Apples and Pears in orchards are also light, many trees being quite barren, although they bloomed profusely. Small pyramidal trees are somewhat better. Plums, too, bloomed well, but fell afterwards, owing to imperfect fertilisation. Of bush fruits of all kinds there is a full crop and good in quality. Strawberries were also good ; President, Sir J. Paxton, and Dr. Hogg especially so. Nuts are an average crop. In an unheated orchard house here Peaches, Nectarines, and Plums are very fine — a fact which shows that cool houeea are better thfut walls, — WM/Obcmp. WEST MIDLAND DIVISION. Gloucestershire. — Tortworth Park. — I have little to report as regards the state of our fruit crops beyond disasters, and these too of a severe character, vegetation in the early part of the season having been brought to a complete standstill by continuous frosts. Our Apple crop is but very limited. Fruits which otherwise escaped are dropping, owing to excessive drought, for we have only had a few hours' rainfall since the last week in April. In some farm or- chards on heavy soil the trees are bearing good crops in sheltered situations. The Codlin section is more productive than the mid- vrinter and spring varieties. Pears are a complete failure, with the exception of that never.failing variety, Alexander Lambre. Cherries on standard trees are an entire blank'; about one-fourth on walls have escaped ; the Morello is, however, bearing heavily. Peaches and Nectarines, a few straggling fruit here and there. Plums, Figs, Walnuts, and other Nuts a failure. Small fruit of every description has been plentiful and high flavoured, but of short duration. The dry season through which we are passing ought to teach us the necessity of paying unremitting attention to deep cultivation, and also of providing shelter, in the form of mulchings, for the roots of our vegetable crops. — Alexander Cbamb. Herefordshire. — Downton Castle. — The fruit crops with na this season are not so good as usual, owing to the severe weather which we had in the spring ; on the 19th of March we had 10° of frost, followed by 5' on the 20th, and 7° on the 21st, 9' on the 22nd, and T on the 23rd ; therefore even Apricots, though well protected, are scarce with ns. Of Peaches, Nectarines, Strawberries, and Morello Cherries we have good crops. Raspberries are also good bnt small, owing to the dry season. Red and Black Currants and Gooseberries are not half a crop. Pears are about halt a crop. Apples not a quarter of a crop, and injured by blight. Plums not half a crop, with the exception of the Victoria, which always crops well, and if the fruit be well thinned it grows to a large size, and becomes im- proved in flavour. — W. Landon. ■Worcestershire.— Madresfleld Court. — We have had a long, cold, and wet spring, which continued late into May, and consequently our fruit prospects are not good. As usual in unfavourable seasons, there are some cases' under very favourable circumstances in which there is a fair average crop, but as a rule the general average will fall far below expectation, the blooms having been abundant but not fully developed. These remarks particularly apply to orchard fruits, such as the Apple, Pear, and Plum. In gardens matters are more favourable ; here, however, Apricots have almost entirely failed, owing to the severe frosts that occun-ed while the fruit was setting, and this is more or less the case in this neighbourhood, where this fruit is extensively grown. Peaches and Nectarines are good. Plums and Pears on walls abundant. Cherries and Figs good. Pyra- midal and bush Apples a fair crop. Bush fruits, such as Currants, Gooseberries, and Raspberries are a fair average crop, but small, in consequence of the long drought. Strawberries from the same cause have been smaller than usual, and the season of gathering consider- ably shortened. Fruit trees of all kinds are, and have been, freer from blight than is usually the case. — Wm. Cox. Worcester. — St. John's Nursery. — Apples here are rather more than half a crop, such sorts as Lord Suffield, Keswick Codlin, and Stirling Castle, are bearing best. Pears a poor crop. Plums half a crop ; the White Egg and Pershore Plum are the most fruitful. Cherries half a crop. Of Damsons we have but few. Goose- berries and Currants are a fair crop. Raspberries poor. Strawberries good, especially early sorts, but of short duration, owing to the extreme heat and drought. Peaches and Nectarines scarce. Apricots almost a failure. — Richard Sunn. "Witley Court, Stourport. — Fruit crops here are a par. tial failure, owing mainly to tho severity of the weather during the blooming season, which not only cut oft the bloom.buds, bnt materially interfered with the healthy circulation of the gap, which encouraged aphides and other insects to attack tho trees and commit sad havoc, particularly upon Plums, which in many instances present a deplorable appearance, being all but denuded of leaves. Apricots are a very light crop. Apples, generally, are thin, with one exception — the King of the Pippins — which is laden with fruit, both upon tall and dwarf trees ; other kinds that are carrying most fruit here are Blenheim Pippin, Dutch Mignonne, Eoklinville, Yellow Ingcstre, Ilawthomden, Keswick Codlin, and Tower of Glamis. Plums are generally scarce ; upon an cast wall we have, however, fair crops of July Green Gage, Transparent Gage, Coe's Golden Drop, Prince Englebert, Bryanston Green Gage, Jefferson, &c., whilst upon standards we have moderate crops of the following : — Belgian Purple, Prince of Wales, Victoria, Early Rivers, Goliath, and Cox's Emperor. Of Damsons we have about half a crop. Pears may be said to be ACG. 12, 1876.] THE GARDKN. 171 quite a failnre. Strawberries have borne famous crops — President, as usual, has done uncommonly well, and so has Keen's Seedling ; Lueas is also an excellent sort, useful either for dessert or for pre- serving, it stands dry weather well ; John Powell is a valuable free-cropping kind, ot good flavour ; Dr. Hogg is as good as any, but sparsely cropped this year. Cherries are very scarce ; Peaches and Nectarines are good crops, and the trees are remarkably healthy ; Figs are heavily cropped. Small fruits, such as Currants, are an average crop, both Eed and White ; Raspberries excellent ; Gooseberries abun. dant ; Nuts, such as Filberts, half a crop j Walnuts half a crop ; Mulberries abundant.— George Westland. Impney Hall, Droitwich.. — Hereabouts, where trees are too crowded and otherwise neglected, the crops are lightest and of least value as to quality. Apples, Pears, and Plums were unusually heavy last season, and, consequently, the trees are left too much exhausted to produce much this season. Apples and Pears are geueially scarce, and they will be small in size ; the kinds which seem to do best are Atkins' No. 2, Blenheim Pippin, Cellini, Codlins of all kinds, Dnme- low's Seedling, Dutch Mignonne, Ecklinville, French Crab, Hawthorn. den. King of Pippins, Kerry Pippin, Margil, Pitmaston Nonpareil, Norifolk Beefing, Northern Greening, Orange Pippin, Devonshire Quarrenden, Eibston Pippin, Tower of Glamis, and many others with local names, — kinds which are very high coloured where grown in Boil in which marl abounds. Where the cordon and dwarf-tree systems are well carried out, very good dessert Apples may be found, as for example at Hindlip Hall. Apricots are under average, and many of the trees are almost killed by insects. Cherries are a fair crop, but many of the trees are much injured by black fly. White- hearts as standards seem much in favour here. Currants of all kinds have been abundant, but generally small. Gooseberries are plentiful, and ot fair size where pruning is attended to, but in general the bushes are choked up with wood. Of Figs there are fair crops where the trees are managed well, but they are too often found a mass of watery growth, with a few fruit on some outside branches. Peaches and Nectarines are a thin crop, and the trees are much blistered ; early crops under glass are excellent — Early Rivers as cordons coming in first, and in the same house Walburton Admirable does excellent service as a succession to medium early kinds. Plums are moderate generally, but very heavy in some positions ; they are, however, much injured by insects. Raspberries and Strawberries are plentiful, but small, and they lasted only a short period in bear, ing. — M. Temple. Morningside, Kidderminster. — With regard to the state of the fruit crops, from all I can learn on every side in this county and neighbourhood, the crop of all kinds of fruit has been less than has been known for many years. With the exceiation of small fruits, such as Gooseberries and Currants, there is literally little or no fruit. My own gardens are pretty much the type of the neigh- bourhood around for some miles, and here I may say that the result is as follows : — Apples very scarce indeed, and the little fruit there is very small and poor; Pears the same. Plums also a great failure, and the trees very much blighted by aphis. Cherries, except here and there, a small crop ; Morello and Kentish almost nil. Peaches and Nectarines about half a crop on protected walls ; Apricots rather more abundant, and tolerably good. Strawberries about two-thirds of a crop, but since the hot weather very good in -flavour, in fact, better than for some years past ; runners very slow to move, and will be scarce in many varieties. Filberts and Nuts scarcely any, and in some parts none whatever. Altogether, more disastrous results have not been known for years. As regards the sorts of fruit that thrive best in this locality I must speak chiefly from my own experience. In Apples (culinary) I find Lord Soffield, Blenheim Orange, and Dumelow's Seedling to thrive well, and to be a sufficient succession for all practical purposes. For dessert I find Cox's Orange Pippin, Eibston Pippin, Claygate Pearmain, Keddleston Pippin, Golden Pippin, and White Nonpareil to be good bearers. Among Pears the following succeed well here in ordinary seasons, and are all first-class fruits, viz., Beurre Giffard, Bon Chretien, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Beurre Snperfin, Doyenne du Comice, Beurre d'Aremberg, Beurre Diel, Easter Beurre, Beurre Renee, Josephine de Malines, and Berga. motte d'Esperenj'whioh in most seasons lasts the longest. Of Plums Early Prolific and Denyer'g Victoria are generally good croppers, to which may be added Mitchelson's, Pershore Plum, Bryanstou Green Gage, Coe's Golden Drop, Jefferson, Belle Septembre, and Reine. Claude de Bavay, all good Plums and good bearers. These are the principal fruits for the million. — W. Roden, M.D. NORTH MIDLAND DIVISION. Nottinghainsliire. — Welbeck, Worksop. — There was abund- ance of blossoms on all kinds of fruit trees, but the ungenial weather in March and April and a very cold, dry May have, in general, had an unfavourable effect on fruit crops. Apricots, Peaches, and Nee tarines on walls where not protected are much below the average. Pears on walls are a fair crop, but thin on standards, the best bearing early kinds are Doyenne d'Eto and Beurre Giffard. Of later varieties of Pears the best are Louise Bonne of Jersey, Beurre d'Amanlis, Madame Treyve, Fondante d'Automne, and Easter Beurre. Cherries are quite a failure both on walls and on standards, the only kind showing an average crop being the Morello on walls. Plums are likewise everywhere in this neighbourhood a thin crop ; even that free.bearing kind, the Victoria, only showed well in sheltered or. chards or gardens. Apples, from the quantity of bloom on the trees, promised heavy crops, but the cold weather in April and May has thinned them considerably, and only an average crop is now likely to bo gathered, except in sheltered situations. Some varieties, such as the Keswick and Manks Codlins, Irish Peach, Rosemary Russet, Olden, burg, Margil, and that best of all late Apples, the Sturmer Pippin, have cropped better than others. Small fruits, such as Gooseberries and Currants, were much injured by the frosts when in flower, and are thin in consequence. Strawberries, flowering later than usual this spring, escaped the frosts, and where properly cultivated have borne heavy crops, and the fruit has been large in size and good in flavour. For early sorts Vicomtease Hericart deThury and Grovend Scarlet were the best croppers and excellent for preserving. The best of the late kinds this year with us have been President, Lucas, Sir J. Paxlon, and British Queen. Dr. Hogg has likewise borne an excellent crop. This variety seems to do best on strong soils. The British Queen, the best of ail Strawberries yet for flavour,_i3 of the same habit, for it never fails here, where the soil is mixed with burnt clay. The Parsley-leaved Blackberry, when grown like Raspberries, bears well here, and is much thought of for preserving, being larger in size and better in flavour than the wild Blackberry of the hedges. ^William Tilleey. Chilwell. — In this neighbourhood the fruit crop is by no means good, not even an average one. Strawberries promised well, but owing to the eight weeks of dry hot weather which we have had they were very quickly over. Gooseberries and Currants are good. Apricots almost a total failure, as are also Walnuts. We had an abundant bloom on Plums, but during the long dry east winds in May it all fell off. I fancy that, owing to the immense crop of Pluma last season, and the continued wet of last summer, which prevented the trees ripening their wood, they had not sufficient vigour to with- stand the drying effects of the east wind. Damascenes are in the same condition as other Plums. Of Apples we have on the whole an average crop, some trees being full, and others with scarcely any fruit. The sorts that succeed best with us, that is, speaking of one year with another, are Barton, free bearer; Russian or Duchess d'Oldenburgh, Pike's Pearmain or King of Pippins, Blenheim Oiange, Caldwell or Rymer, and Northern Greening; ot course we have many other good old sorts which bear well, but not quite so regularly, such as Normanton Wonder, New and Old Besspool, &c. Pears are scarce as a rule, but some sorts are plentiful ; among the latter may be named Doyenne d'Eto, Crawford, and Beurre d'Amanlis ; these, Williams's Bon Chretien, and Hessle are what we chiefly depend on. Peaches a'jd Nectarines are conspicuous by their absence. Cherries are also a failure.— Alfeed H. Peaesox. Radcliflfe-on-Trent. — Our fruit crop is, taken as a whole, below the average, the long, inclement spring which we had, coupled with morning frosts in March and April, cleared off, except in sheltered places, most of the bloom. Apples are a middling crop. Keswick Codlin, Lord Suffield, Pearson's Plate, and, best of all, Besspool and Besspool Improved, are very good crops ; indeed, it is a Besspool year hereabouts. Pears are a very thin crop — Williams' Ban Chretien, Louise Bonne ot Jersey, Napoleon, and Jargonelle are the only ones I have which carry fruit, though the trees in spring were sheets of bloom. Plums are scarce — Orleans and Victoria are the only kinds which have any on them, and these are only bearing about a third ot a crop. Ot Cherries we have none. Strawberries are good, but not having a good water supply they did not swell off well President, Vicomtesso de Thnry, Frogmore Late Pine, and Keen's Seedling are all good bearers, and do well here. Out-door Peaches, consisting of Royal George and Noblesse, are a good crop. Apricots scarce in all places, even under walls with glass copings. Walnuts are a very fair crop, which is confined to the south side ot the trees. Of Gooseberries we have a good crop in sheltered situa. tions ; in exposed ones it is very partial. Of Currants Eed and Black the same may be said. Easpberries are a fair crop, but in conse- quence of the hot, dry weather of June and July, they have swelled off badly.— N. H. Fownall. Eastwood Hall. — In this neighbourhood our favourite Apples are Keswick Codlin and Lord Suffield for early kitchen use, and Yorkshire Greening for late kitchen use j Blenheioi Orange and 172 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 12, 1876. Eve are onr best table Borts. Ot Peara, of which wo have a good collection, the best are Marie Louise, NapoleoD, and Aeton Town, bat tbia year they are not good in quality. Strawberries do well here ; the best are President and Lucas, both for forcing and open ground culture. Nuts and Walnuts — A fair crop of Nuts ; no Walnut trees healthy. Gooseberries and Currants — A most abundant crop ; trees free from insects. Strawberries — A splendid crop; favoarite Bort, President. Kaspberries — A good crop ; fine fruit and good flavour. Cherries — A very thin crop of all sorts. Nectarines — A most abundant crop ; trees healthy. Peaches — A grand crop ; trees in good condition. Pears — A poor crop, scarcely any at all. Plums — None at all ; trees very much blighted. Apricots — A few ot Moor Park, none of other sorts. Apples very scarce ; a few Keswicks and Greenings. Figs — A good crop ; trees look well. — CnAS. Tlkneb. lieicestersliire. — Coleorton Hall, Aehby-de-la-Zouch. — Of Apricots we have very few, much under average, and the same may bo said of Apples. Pears are an average crop on walls, nndcr average on standards. Plums on walls are an average crop. Peaches and Nectarines abundant. MoroUo Cherries good ; others moderate. Strawberries ot all kinds very plentiful. Easpberries are very good. Gooseberries and Currants not halt a crop; they were destroyed by frost and snow in April. Of Figs we have very few indeed. Nuts very thin ; scaiosly any. — M. IIendeksg.v. Derbyshire. — Osmastoa Manor. — Apples, Pears, Apricots, and Pluma are good crops ; Damsons and Medlars half a crop ; Strawberries very good, and large Ptaspberrics the same ; Gooseberries half a crop ; Bed Currants good. Black none, owing to the buds being destroyed by birds ; Walnuts none ; Filberts scarce, and other Nuts not more than half a crop ; Peaches, Nectarines, and Figs, indoors, good crops. The kinds of fruits that succeed best with me are tho following: — Apricots — Moor Park. Pears on walls — Marie Louise, Comto do Lamy, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Williams' Bon Chretien, GanBcl's Bergamot, Beurru d'Aremberg, Beurro Diel, Easter Beurre, Winter Nelis, Glou Morceau, Beurro Hardy, Passe Colmar, and Jar. goncllo. In the shape ot pyramids we have Knight's Monarch, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Williams' Bon Chretien, and others. The best dessert Apples are Court Pendu Plat, Cox's Orange Pippin, llibaton Pippin, Graveustein, Margaret, Sturmer Pippin, Fearn's Pippin, and others: Kitchen — Blenheim Pippin, Cox's Pomona, Haw- fiornden both old and new; Keswick Codlin,Mank3 Codlin, Northern Greening, Dumelow's Seedling, Warner's King, Waltham Abbey, Lord Suffield, Minchall Crab, and others. Our best Cherries are the Elton, May Duke, Black Tartatian, Black Eagle, Bigarreau, Napoleon and others. Plums — Cco'a Golden Drop, Dove Bank, Kirke'a, Jefferson's, Victoria, Washington, Blue Gage, and Green Gage. Black Currants — Naples ; Bed Currants — Victoria, and Warner's Grape, These fruits bear good crops yearly on gravelly soil. — J. Booth. Ijincolnshire. — Aswarby Park. — Of Apples we have hero very few, and the same may bo said of Apricots. Black Currants under average. Bed Currants full crop, and the same may be said ot Figs out-ot-doors, to which no protection was given in winter. Of AVhito Smith, Warrington, and Scotch Red Gooseberries we have had a full crop. The following varieties ot Pears are bearing a full crop, viz. : — Leon Lo Clero, Duchesse d'Angouleme, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Beurre de Picqucry, Broom Park, Hacon'a Incomparable, Knight's Monarch, Althorp Crassane, Cliauniontol, Easter Beurre, and Crassane — these are grown as pendulous pyramids ; ou all other varieties grown here there is not an average crop. Ot Green Gage, Prince Englebert, Magnum Bonum, Coo's Golden Drop, and the Czar Plums we have an average crop, while that on nbont forty other varieties grown here is a failure. On Peaches and Nectarines outsido we have a full crop, and they are making good clean growth. Straw- berries have been a full crop, and tho fruit has been large and fine, especially that on Keen's Seedling, President, Sir Joseph Paxton, British (iueon, and Dr. Hogg. Walnuts and Mulberries are an extra heavy crop. With the exception of one orchard about a mile from here, fruits ot all kinds are under the average in this neighbonrhood. KlCnAlID NlSUET. Bloxholm Hall. — Fruit crops are not very promising in this neighbourhood ; we had an excellent show of blossom on all kinds of out-door fruits, and in many cases the fruit sot abundantly, but cold weather with east and north-east winds during the first throe weeks in May did its work completely. Apricots, Apples, Cherries, Plums, Pears, and Gooseberries fell oft in great quantities, leaving only a very poor crop. Black, Bed, and White Currants aro rather under tho average, but tho fruit is all that could bo desired. Poaches are a fair average crop. Walnuts and Filberts good. Apri- cots under the protection ot glass aro good crops, but under canvas rollers they are a failure— a fact which points out that, after all, glass structures constitute the only safe way by which good and regular crops ot fruit cau bo secured. — D. Lumsuen. SOUTH-WESTERN DIVISION. Dorsetshire. — Moreton, Dorchester. — Of Apricots we have very few, but there are not many grown. Peaches and Nectarines very good in orchard-houses hereabouts, on open walls nearly a failure ; trees suffered from cold east winds in spring, and ot course are not improved by the drought which we have beeu experiencing. Of Apples some sorts are bearing very fair crops here, particularly Blenheim Orange, which is one which seldom fails, and is altogether one of our very best Apples ; but iu some places Apples are almost a failure. Pears and Plums do not amount to half an average crop. Cherries fair, Morellos good. Figs good. Strawberries very good indeed, but, owing to the drought, of short duration. Gooseberries about halt a crop. Currants very good. Baspberrios good, but suffering from drought. — D. UriuLL. Sherborne. — Up to about the 12th of April the fruit crops in this neighbourhood wore very promising, but on that date and for many days afterwards they were very much damaged by frost. Apples, both in gardens and orchards, are a thin crop, and much blighted. Apricots a very poor crop, excepting in favoured spots. Berberries plentiful. Cherries a thin crop, with the exception ot Morellos, which are about an average crop. Pears on walls thin, and on stand- ards scarcely any. Figs moderate. Gooseberries and Currants very much below the average. Peaches and Nectarines ou walls a good crop, but tho foliage is much blistered. Plums much below the average. Baepberrics are plentiful. Strawberries a very good crop, but the fruit did not swell to a large size. — W. G. Pbagnell. ClevelandSj Lyme Begis. — Fruit crops in this district are far from being satisfactory. The unusually severe weather experienced in the early part ot the year, and later en continuous cold east winds, did much to decimate our fruit crop, and vegetation generally suffered considerably. Bush fruit is unusually scarce. Gooseberries are a total failure, except in a few instances, where the bushes are very sheltered. Of Currants we have very few. Basp. berries are small and scarce. Strawberries an average crop and good in quality. Wall fruit generally much below an average, with the exception ot Plums, of which there is a fair crop. Pears aro a short crop, and Apples also are very deficient. — H. MuNKO. Canford. — Crops of bnsh fruits iu this part are abnndant, but they have suffered from tho drought ; largo tree fruits, as Apples, Pears, and Plums, are generally light. To particularise, the earliest blossom on Strawberries was cut by the frost iu April last, but an abundant second blossom yielded a fine crop of smaller fruit. Goose- berries, Currants of all sorts, and Kaspberries are abundant. Straw- harries grown by us are Marguerite, very large ; President, also very large, a firm fruit, and highly coloured ; Sir Joseph Paxton, still a first class Strawberry for this part; Vicomtesse Uericart de Thury is a dwarf-growing, very prolific Strawberry, and an excellent forcer. Dr. Hogg is one of our standard Strawberries; Keen's Seedling is grown for preserving in this part. Our best late Straw- berry is Eleanor, which is very large and prolific. The main crops ot Gooseberries are confined to White Smith, Warrington, Early Sulphur, and Crown Bob, together with a few other sorts. Many varieties of Pears suffered from frost attacking the blossoms in the month ot April ; on tho morning of the 12th the blossom was enveloped in 2 in. of snow, which for the time did not seem to injure it much, but bad effects soon became apparent; later blossom set, but the crop is deficient. Apples on dwarf trees are halt a crop; on orchard trees they are an entire failure. Some of the sorts of Pears whioh do well here in the form of standards are Beurro Boso, Williams' Bon Chretien, Marie Louise, Cbaumontel, Gansol's Bergamot, Beurre Diel, and Beurre de Capiaumont. A list of those which do well as espaliers and dwarf trees would include most of the more popular and favourite varieties. Among Apples, the best aro Dumelow's Seedling, Cox's Orange Pippin, Cox's Pomona, Mere de Menage, Lord Suflield, Cellini, Court Pendu Plat, Goldeu Winter Poarmaiu, Kerry Pippin, Dutch Mignonne, French Ciab, Devonshire yuarrendon. These can always bo depended on. Margil, Cornish Gillyflower, Court ot Wick, and Old Nonpareil do very well as dwarf trees. Apricots aro this season a good crop ; the varieties consist, namely, ot Moor Park and Koyal Orange. Plums are scarce on standard trees. Green Gages on walls moderate; Green Gages do well here on a north wall or rather a.spect ; Victoria and Prince ot Wales are vei-y satisfactory in the form of standard trees j also in some parts White and Bed Jlagnnm Bonum. Cherries have been a light crop, and tho trees suffered much from blight in May, owing to the continuunco ot easterly winds. Figs are a good crop ; they do best when very sparingly pruned — iu fact, not stopped at all; the sorts are Brown Turkey and Brunswick ; they are never protected iu winter; water and feeding at tho proper period — say now and onwards to tho third week in August — is tho grand secret of success in out-door fruit culture ou the south coast on light soil. — W. D. Aug. 12, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 173 Cornwall. — Enys, Penryn. — Apples here are much below the average. There are here and there, however, a crop of late kinds, Buoh as Margil, Winter Pearmain, and Blenheim Orange, which are the best late kinds abjut hare — Codlins (Keswick) are generally prolific, and the same may be said of Hawthornden, all free-bearing Borts that do pretty well most seasons, but the shy bearers, owing to the nature of the soil, require to be kept dwarf and well pruned in order to get a crop. Of Pears there is a sprinkling of most sorts, bat such kinds as Swan's Egg, Will jams' Bon Chretien, Louise Bonne of Jersey, do best, and are bearing this season in most places good crops. Of Peaches and Nectarines we have good crops. Blight was at one time very prevalent, but the trees are now looking well. Strawberries have been good, but owing to tho dry weather the crop has been short. Gooseberries and Currants abundant. Of Cherries we have fair crops in most places. Brown Turkey Figs ou walls are abundant. Raspberries good. Plums, preserving kinds, a very poor crop. Of Green Gage there is a sprinkling. Apricots, as a rule, do not bear well in Cornwall. — Henky Mills. Devonsliire. — Killerton, Exeter. — Apricots hereabouts are below the average, as are also Plums and Cherries, and tho trees are much blighted. Of Peaches and Nectarines we have good crops and healthy trees. Of Apples there are good average crops on the best land. Pears on walls moderate, and on pyramids scarce. Cur. rants, both lied and White, are good crops ; Black scarce. Goose- berries very plentiful. Raspberries moderate, and the fruit is small. Strawberries have been a very good crop. Nuts, where grown, good. The best two Strawberries I have grown for a crop are — Wonderful and Newton's Seedling ; the latter is a heavy bearer, and would suit market gardeners well. Of Plums here, by far tho heaviest cropper is Prince Englebert in the form of a pyramid ; it is a fine Plum and a free grower, and it bears so freely in some seasons that I have to prop it all round to prevent it from breaking down; it bears much more heavily than Mitchelson's, which is another good bearer, trees of it that are growing too strongly I shall root-prune in a few days. Of Pears, Jargonelle and Bergamotte d'Esperen are bearing heavily, Viihile on Glou Morceau, Monarch, Zephirin Gregoire, Chaumontel, Doyenne du Cornice, and Beurre d'Amanlis, there are fair crops. Pears on pyramids set their fruit thickly, but it fell from the cold in May and June. Among the best Peaches here are Royal George, Noblesse, Barrington, and Dymond; and the best Nectarines Elruge, Violette Hative, and Rivers' Early Orange, all of which are bearing uncommonly well. The best Apples are Blenheim Orange, King of the Pippins, Royal Russet, Dumelow's Seedling, Autumn Pearmain, and Red Qnarronden. These make fine orchard trees, and bear well. — John Gaklanu. Wiltsliire. — Bowood, Chippenham. — Fruit crops this year cannot be spoken of in very high terms ; Pears are inferior both in quality and quantity ; Apricots are scarce, but the fruit is of fair quality ; Peaches and Nectarines are an average crop ; Plums are scarce ; Cherries, both early and late, are not bad on walls. Straw- berries were of good quality, but not quite an average crop ; most sorts of Currants are good ; Raspberries promised to be a good crop up to within a fortnight of their ripening, after which they suffered very much from want of rain ; Gooseberries are very small. Tho season has been a very trying one ; throughout the spring months the weather was unusually dull and wet, in fact nothing but wintry weather up to the middle of May, Apricot trees are, however, now making fine growth ; they seem to have enjoyed the hot weather of last month immensely. — W. Scammell. Thoresby. — Apricots set well here, but dropped off after. wards ; and although well protected, the crop will be under an aver. age one. Peaches are a fair crop, but they will be late. Plums ou walls will be light, and on standards in orchards there are none. Pears on walls will be a good average crop, especially on west aspects. Louise Bonne of Jersey is producing a heavy crop ; Williams' Bon Chretien, Gansel's Bergamot, Beurre Superfin an average crop. On Catinka there is a heavy crop. Citron des Carmes, Triomphe do Louvaine, Theodore Van Mons, Fondante d'Automne, Conseiller de la Cour, Matthews' Eliza, Brockworth Park, Emile d'Heyst, Angelique de Bordeaux, and White Doyenno'are all yielding fair average crops. Cherries are abundant, and the fruit excellent. Black Tartarian, White Hearts, and also Morellos are plentiful. Small fruits are abundant, with the exception of Black Currants, which are very thin. — A. Hendeeson. Somerset.— Ashton Court, Bristol.— Of Apples wo have a fair average crop. Pears are thin, and will probably be small. Apricots, Plums and Cherries are all under the average, and much blighted. Of Peaches and Nectarines we have good crops both under glass and on open walls ; those on the latter promise to be very late in ripening; the trees are clean and healthy. Stra-.TberriG3 on the whole were a good average crop, but Bmall. Bash fruits good bat small. Nuts of all kinds are very scarce. With the exception of Apricots, all kinds of fruit trees succeed well in this district. Of Apples large quantities are grown for cider-making, and in good seasons they prove a profitable source of income. — John Austen. NORTH-WESTERN DIVISION, liancashire. — Waterdale, St. Helens. — Apple crops here- abouts are very poor ; the best is a late Apple locally called the Rose of Sharon, which is bearing a fair crop, and is much grown about here. Of Pears there are scarcely any, and the same may be said of all sorts of stoao fruit. Red Currants are an average crop, but Black kinds are very light, and Gooseberries arc the same. Rasp, berries are below the average. Strawberries have been a good crop, and well coloured ; Vicomtesso Hericart de Thury supersedes all others on our cold clay ; next come President and Sir Charles Napier. — Jaues Smith. Knowsley, Jjiverpool, — Apples in this neighbourhood are a poor crop, and the same may be said of Pears and Plums. Cherries are somewhat better, but I have seen finer fruit than we have this year. Peaches and Apricots on open walls are better than one could have expected, considering the cold spring we had ; at first they looked very thin, but as the fruit increases in size the trees look more promising. Currants and Gooseberries are a thin crop, but the fruit is good. Raspberries have suffered from want of rain until within the last few days, when they seem to have rallied wonderfully and are finishing off pretty well. Strawberries have been both plentiful and good ; they are now just over, with the exception of the Alpines, which will last for some time yet. — F. Hakkison. Ormskirk. — This district, owing to its western sea-board, is not well suited for fruit, and orchards are rare, if indeed there are any worthy the name ; still, owing to the vast amount of population, particularly of the manufacturing class, fruit is in much demand, and is cultivated in every locality favourable to its growth — mostly in gardens and about farmhouses. Fruits in general this year, owing to late frosts, and also partly owing to the exhaustion caused by last year's crops, are a failure. Apples are about one-third of au average crop. Tho old, but nearly discarded, Keswick Codlin seems an ex- ception, trees of this kind being loaded. Lord Suffield has nearly driven this and many other kinds out of date, and more of this fine free Apple is planted than of any other. Rose of Sharon and RoUi. son are two Apples that generally bear well about here, and among dessert Apples King of the Pippins seems to do as well, if not better, than any other. Pears are a complete failure, though of course there are always some Pears. A really good Pear year is only expected about every seven years (of course I am not alluding to the finer protected kinds in private gardens). A variety called the Hazel bears enormous crops. Marie Louise is popular for buildings, stable walls, and similar places, but it will not bear hero as a standard. Tho old Jargonelle, once such a favourite, is much given to canker. Of Plums and Damsons we have none. The Victoria bears prodigiously, and it may be grown as bushes, like Gooseberry trees. Were I about to plant 100 Plum trees, I should plant 90 of Victoria. Of Cherries few are grown about here, except ou walls, but the crop this year has been a light one. The Morello is grown largely ou north aspects as a dessert fruit, and bears splendidly. Gooseberries are a complete failure, except in very sheltered positions, under trees or on the lee side of quarters, whero they are grown in masses. This moist cool climate suits this fruit admirably. A variety called Crown Bob is very popular to gather green for market purposes, and the Aston Seedling is esteemed the best for dessert or for preserves. Currants both Red and White are poor crops ; of Black there is an average crop. The cold spring and the late hot weather have just suited Strawberries. They do admirably, especially in dry hot summers, on our cool, mossy land, and among others Vicomtesse 'Hericart de Thury bears prodigiously. Of this kind, a quart per yard in the row at a gathering is nothing uncommon. — Thos. Williams. Cheshire. — Crewe Hall. — Most out-door fruit crops are under an average this season, some verv much so, owing to the severe frosts which occurred when they were in blossom. There were nine nights in April and fifteen in May on which the thermometer showed from 1" to 9° of frost, and had not the atmosphere been dry at the time fruit crops would have been still less than they are. Apricots here, abouts are scarce; Peaches and Nectarines protected when in blossom are a good average crop ; Pears on walls are considerably under the average, and they are scarce on pyramids and standards ; Apples the same ; some kinds of Plums on walls, such as Denyer's Victoria, are a good crop, but in general they are a failure ; of Damsons, which are largely grown in this county, there are very few ; Strawberries have been an abundant crop, and the fruit good in quality ; Raspberries the same ; Red and White Currants scarcely an average crop ; and of Black Currants aud Gooseberries we have had very few. The princi 174 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 12, 1876. pal varieties of frnits wliich I grow, and which I find to sncceed best, are the following, which I have set down as nearly as possible in their order of ripening. Beginning with Apricots we have Golden Drop, Kaisha, Moor Faik, acd D'AUace. Peaches — Early Beatrice, Early Louise, Kivers' Early York, Acton Scott, Early Alfred, Dagmar, Dr. Hogg, Royal George, Grosse Migconne, Noblesse, Alexandra Noblesse, Dyniond, Barringtoii, and Walburton Admiiable. Nectarines — KIrugo, Stanwick, Uardwicke Seedling, Violette Hative, Rivers' Orange, Pino Apple, and Victoria. Pears — Citron des Carnics, Jargonelle, Williams' Bon Chretien, White Doyenne, Ijouise Bonne, ]ienrre Dicl, Van Mens, Glou llorcean. Knight's Monarch, AVinter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, Easter Beurrc, Beurre Ranee. Plums — Green Gage, Transparent Gage, Victoria, Kirke'e, Coe's Golden Drop, Reine Claude do Bavay, Washington, Magnum Bonum. Apples — Irish Peach, King of the Pippins, Cox's Orange Pippin, Ribston, Old Nonpareil, Nonscch, Keswick Codlin, Ilawthornden, Lord Snflield, Jlijre de Manege, Yorkshire Greening, Northern Greening, Dumelow's Seedling, Norfolk Beefing. Strawberries — Keen's Seedling, La Grosse Sucree, Vicomtcsse Hericart de Thury, President, Sir J. Paxton, and Elton Improved. — W. Weitaker, Abney Hall, Cheadle. — This cannot be reckoned an average frnit year in this district. Here the Apple crop was a very promising one (though in other places it was not good), but these last few very dry days have brought a good many oil the trees ; still the crop will bo good. Pears are not an average crop. Louise Bonne of Jersey is bearing a good crop, but others scarcely any. Strawberries have been fairly good, and were gathered in good order. The best sorts here are Lucas and President; tho other sorts which we have are Frogtnore Late Pine, a kind of no nee here, and Dr. Hogg, which is not worth growing with us ; Amateur has done better this year than last, but it might bo classed about fonrth.rate; Carolina Superba is grown for its flavour, and Black Prince for preserving. Black Currants have turned out well when gathered oft young bushes. In some places hereabouts they aro a failure. Red Currants are an average crop. Gooseberries with ns are under an average, and I believe the same is the case generally in this district. Raspberries the same, and tho late hot and dry days have injured the later gatherings. All the stone frnits are a good deal under average. — R Mackellah. EASTERN DIVISION. Suffolk.— Shrubland Park. — Fruit crops in this neighbonr. liood are very light indeed. Apples and Pears are much under average. Apricots are a failure, and Plums not much better. Cherries are thin, with the exception of Morellos, which are a fair crop. Peaches are good, both under glass and on open walls. Straw. berries were plentiful and good, especially British Queen ; I find this and Sir Charles Napier to be the most trustworthy, both for forcing and in the open ground. Bush fruits have been good and cleaner than 1 have seen them for years. Among Apples I find King of tho Pippins and Cellini to bo tho most regular bearers. Tho finer sorts of Pears, such as Marie Louise, Doyenne du Cornice, Thompson's, &o., are almost blanks, while of Louise Bonne of Jersey, Comto do Lamy, and Althorp Crassone on standards, there are about average crops; Glou Morceau and Easter Beurre on walls are tolerably good in cot- tage gardens hereabouts. Green Gages, Damsons, and Bullacea are geuerally plentiful, but this year few aro to be seen.— T. Blaib. Henh am Hall. — Apricots aro a good average crop. Peache^ and Nectarines very good, the late sunny weather having promoted tho growth of both fruit and foliogo immensely where attention was paid to mulching and watering. Plums both on walls and on standards are a heavy crop, Damscns especially so, tho trees already bending with the weight of fruit. Pears aro a moderate crop, but good in quality. Figs are abundant; they flourish in this neighbourliood with scarcely any^attention, a bard, rather poor soil, producing most fruitful trees. Cherries are good, especially the Morello, which, when grafted on tho Miihaleb stock, is tho most productive and best Cherry we have for culinary purposes or for preserving. Apples aro a very variable crop, especially on standards, on which they aro very thin ; on espaliers and dwaifs they are good. Bush fruits are especially abundant and clean. Strawberries plentiful, but scarcely of average size, and on light soils they were of shoit duration. Filberts and Nuts are good crops ; but Walnuts are very tliin. Taken collectively, fruit crops this year aro very variable, the long continuance of easterly winds during tho flowering season having greatly diminished the crop in exposed situations. — James Gkoom. Culford Hall, Bury St. Edmunds.— Everywhere weheor of there being light crops of nearly all kinds of frnit this season, bush excepted. Apricots aro ligh t, but the fruit, as far as it goes, is of good quality. Peaches and Nectarines are hardly an average crop. Plums ou walls aro bearing a light Ijut regular crop; pyramidal trained standard treesare a failure, with the exception of a few trees of Rivers' Early Prolific, which are carrying a light crop ; this variety very seldom altogether fails. Of Cherries only the Morello variety is grown in the open air here, and trees of it aro bearing a fair crop, although lighter than usual. Other kinds in orchard houses have borne good crops. Apples are almost a failure here; I have, however, observed some few trees in cottage gardens in this neigh. bouihood carrying fair crops. Standard Pears, like Apples, are, as nearly as possible, a failure ; while upon tho walls, mostly npon an east aspect, sncli varieties as the Beurre Rose, Benrrc Diel, Glou Morceau, No Plus Meuris, &c., aro bearing very good crops. Goose, berries are plentiful and good in quality ; and the same may be said cf Currants. Strawberries have been a good crop, and the frnit of most of tho varieties grown hero has been remarkably fine, especially that of Sir Charles Napier, Sir Joseph Paxton, and British Queen. — P. Grieve. 'Woolverstone Park, Ipswich.— No season could have opened with more promise as regards an abundant fruit crop than the present, and the lateness of the trees in unfolding their blooms appeared to make a fruit crop almost a certainty, but frosts and cold came later still and destroyed tho blooms, or so crippled any that had set, that tho frnit either dropped oft or ceased to swell, except irregularly, so that many of those that remain on aro mis-shapen and deformed. This is especially the case with Pears and Plums, the former of which are suro to be inferior in quality, owing to the hard knotted flesh resulting from frost-bite. Trees of these on walls are almost bare of frnit, but pyramids with ns are so full as to require much thinning. Piums are thin on standards, but abnndanton walls, although, as observed above, they are greatly deformed, and from present appearances will not swell to anything like their proper size. Peaches and Nectarines set well, but most of tho frnit has since fallen, owing to the cold weather during May, and what remains on has a very stunted appearance, clearly showing that they will be much smaller than usual. Apricots are thin, and although the trees suffered much from the cold, both them and Peaches have made good progress during the last month or so. Cherries have been almost a failure on standards, but on walls the crops were good and the fruit fine in quality. Bush fruit of all kinds has been abundant, Gooseberries especially being very full of fruit. Apples arc thin in most places, and only a crop in very sheltered situations. With us the best are Cox's Orange Pippin, Keswick Codlin, and Dumelow's Seedling. Figs showed well, but owing to the cold have since fallen off. — J. SnEPrARD. Hardwick House, Bury St. Edmunds — In general terms fruit crops are a failure about here this year. Apples, Pears, Plums, Apricots aro few or none ; of course there are exceptions, but they but confirm the rule. Gooseberries, too, are nil in my garden ; in others they are a full crop. On the other hand, Currants, especi- ally Black ones, are unusually fine. Peaches aro tho crop of tho season in the open air ; these are generally a good crop, protected or unprotected ; they flowered about a fortnight later than tho Apricots, and so I suppose escaped, though tho weather was cold. Raspberries suffered greatly from drought, and are very scarce and dear. Strawberries were partial, very fair in some gardens, poor in others— the season shortened in all by tho drought. Cherries, too, are partial, good in some places, very scarce in others. Nuts of all kinds are thin. The failure among fruits cannot bo wholly the result of tho frost, for a great many of the Apples, Pears an J Plums showed little or no bloom ; much of it is due to overcropping last year; in proof of (his wo have the fact of no bloom on many trees, and tho additional one that cordon and other trees showed well last year, and trees that had no crop or a light one are tolerably well hung with fruit this season. The lesson tanght by the failure is, therefore, more thinning and better protection. Tho George IV. Peach, Kaisha Apricot, and tho Victoria Plum are about the hardiest varieties and best croppers here. — D. T. Fisn. Norfolk. — Cossey Park, Norwich. — Apricots are a failure, especially Anson's or Moor Paik ; I'eaehcs and Nectarines aro under average crops ; of Plums we have bad crops both on walls and standards ; Apples, except in some instances, few or none, and tho same may be said of Pears ; Cherries below average ; Strawberries were an average crop, but soon failed through heat and drought ; Currants, Gooseberries, and Raspberries under average and bad in quality ; Walnuts none ; Filberts under average ; Figs only moderate. I may add that I never observed fruit so short in Norwich market for some years. — J. WioniON. Sandringham. — Our fruit crops hereabouts are by no means good. Of Apples wo have very few. Apricots none. Pears very few, Plums very few. Peaches good. Nectarines few, Gooseberries only a few. Currants good. This has been the actt backward and barren season ever known. — Charles Pe.vxy. Aug. 12, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 175 I TORKSHIRB. Btourtoa Park, Knaresborough.. — Frnlfc crops are, in general, this season below the average, as might naturally have been expected after the very heavy crops last year. It is not often that we have two heavy crops in succession. There was a good show of blossoms last spring, but much of it was weak, and ovving to this and the continu. ance of severe weather whilst the trees were in bloom, the crops are in general light. Strawberries have been here and in the neighbour, hood good crops, but soon over, owing to the heat and drought. Of Raspberries we had a good crop ; but I hear complaints of their suSer. ing much in the neighbourhood from the heat, and they have been rather dear in consequence. Of Gooseberries and Currants I have abundance, but in the neighbourhood they are variable ; the Ashton Ked or Warrington, for I believe they are the same, and Whitesmith are the sorts principally grown in this neighbourhood for market, the former for preserving and the latter for tarts. Apples are very irre- gular, SDme trees having a good crop, whilst many are bearing few or no fruit ; Cockpits and Keswick Codlin are the kinds most extensively grown in this neighbourhood for market ; in general they bear well. Plums are very irregular ; Victorias (where not overladen last year) are good, also Michelson and Orleans. Damsons and most other sorts light. Pears here are a fair crop, on standards good. Cherries very light everywhere. Apricots are a fair crop here and in the neigh- bourhood, though of course there are places where they are light. Peaches also good ; the trees in general look healthy, and with a little more hot weather the^wood and fruit-buds are likely to get properly matured. — M. Saul. Grimston Park, Tadcaster. — Apricots are under an average, but promise to be good as regards size ; they are mostly confined to tho upper part of the wall ; our standard variety is Moor Park. Apples are the lightest crops that we have had during these four years ; the standard kitchen Apple in this locality is a variety called Cockpit; it generally bears heavy crops of useful fruit, and is a good. keeping sort. Co.x'8 Orange Pippin is proving our best dessert Apple ; young trees of it three years planted are bearing good crops when most others have failed. Although we are only some ten miles from the home of Bibston Pippin, I have not seen a healthy tree about us ; they die off with canker so severely. Cherries are average crops, Morellos being best; wo invariably get our Guest fruits of this variety from some large pyramidal. shaped trees grow- ing in one of the kitchen garden borders. Pears are light crops, Louise Bonne of Jersey being the only sort that has a full crop on it ; Marie Louise, Williams' Bon Chretien, Winter Nelis, and Easter Baurre are our best sorts. Plums are full average^crops, Jefferson's, Green Gage, and Victoria being the best and surest cropping varieties. Peaches and Nectarines are good and the trees clean and healthy ; Early York, Royal George, and Late .Admirable are the best Peaches, Elruge and Violette Uitive holding the same position as Nectarines. Of small fruits Strawberries and Bed Currants have been excellent crops, but the late hot weather caused tho former to be of short duration. Other varieties, viz.. Raspberries, Gooseberries, and Black Currants are full average crops, taking the locality generally. Our soil is a stiSish loam, resting on limestone, and suits stone fruits well. — H. J. Clayton. Kibston Hall, Wetherby. — Peaches in this neighbour- hood are good, aud the trees clean and healthy. Nectarines the same. Apricots good and clean. Plums very thin, trees sadly in. fested with fly. Cherries a good crop. Pears very thin, owing to the bloom having got injured by frost. Keswicks and Manks Codlin Apples are good, also King of the Pippins, Hawthornden, Bridg. water Pippin, and early Julian ; on others there are very light crops. Strawberries excellent; Eleanor, Dr. Hogg, British Queen, and Keen's Seedling are onr favourite sorts. Eleanor is grown by the acre in this neighbourhood for the Harrogate market ; it is the best late sort, and travels well. Bed and White Currants we were obliged to prop np. Black Currants very thin. Medlars a very good crop. Raspberries plentiful. — Thos. Jones. SIie£B.eId, Wortley Hall.— Prospects of fruit were most encouraging in8pring,bnt with the exoeptionot Strawberries, Cherries and Baspberries, which are good, and othersraall fruits which are about the average, the crops are not great. Pears are better than Apples, but they are not plentiful, aud Apples are poor; Lord SuflSeld and the Codlins being the best crop, as they are in this district, which is high and inland. The Pears which do best with us are Marie Louise and Louise Bonne on walls and espaliers. These two afford our main supply, and are generally a good crop and excellent in quality, though late with us, sometimes keeping till Christmas. Jargonelles also do well on walls and standards ; none of the finer kinds ripen properly, — J. giMPSON. Thorpe Perrow, Bedale.— In this neighhouihood we had prospects of a good crop up to the 13th of April, but on that morning we had 11° of frost, and on the 15th 10°, amounts which proved too much for the Apples, Pears, and Plums. In many places not one b'.oom was left alive, and the whole may be summed up as follows : — Apples much below the average ; Apricots a good crop and excellent in quality ; Peaches good ; Pears moderate, especially late sorts ; Plnms much below average ; Cherries not good, with the exception of Morello; Black, White, and Red Currants abundant, and very fine ; Gooseberries a bad crop generally ; Nuts nearly all killed on the 13th of April, both in gardens and hedge rows.— WiLLrAM Culvebwell. NOETHERN DIVISION. Cumberland.— Whitefield House, Carlisle.— This has been the worst season for fruit on record. The first show of Apple, Pear, and Cherry blossom was destroyed by prolonged cold and drought in early spring. Later on, there was a large amount of second bloom, which offered to set well. About a week after Ascot Races we had a terrible hurricane of wind without rain, which laid even dwarf fruit trees and many shrubs prostrate, uprooting some. Gooseberries, for which we are famous in the north, are a complete failure. I should say that two Gooseberries to each bush are above an average, but the great bulk have none at all. Bushes, however, look healthy, and are extrardinarily full of new wood, like dense Furze or Broom bushes. Black Currants in shady places numerous, but small from want of moisture. Bed and White Currants small and tasteless. Strawberries the same. Baspberries plentiful, but the birds are devouring them all from want of grubs and insect food. The only Apples I see on the espaliers are Normanton Wonder, which never entirely fails ; it is generally an immense bearer, and keeps well. Lord SuSield crops well here, but must be used immediately, as it will not keep more than a week or two. We generally depend on Keswick Codlin and Bibston Pippin, two excellent old standard sorts, bat they have failed both last year and this. Many good old sorts are, I am afraid, losing their constitution and wearing out. — J. Gill- banks. Durham. — Lambton Castle. — Fruit crops in this locality are, upon the whole, thin. Apples aud Pears being far below the average. Pears are best represented by Passe Colmar, Soldat d'Esperen, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Knight's Monarch, Easter Beurre, Beurre Incom- parable, Hazel, Green Yair, Seckle, Flemish Beauty, and Swan's Egg. Apples by Lord Suffield, Golden Pippin, Kymer, Cellini, and King of the Pippins. Although thin, cooking sorts are better than dessert kinds of Apricots ; we have a good half crop clean and free from maggot. Peaches and Nectarines are thin. The early sorts of Cherries were destroyed by frost ; late sorts are a good crop and of excellent quality. Morellos thin but good. Plums thin, late bios- soms only having set. Strawberries plentiful, but somewhat unsatis. factory after the first gathering, the plants drooping to the ground, owin" to the prolonged drought ; Dao de Malakoff is our best Straw- berry, but President, James Veitoh, Mammoth, Amateur, and Elton also do well. Gooseberries thin but good, the hot weather causing the exposed fruit to drop. Curr,int3 and other small fruits plentiful ; the mulching of all small fruits has greatly added to their well.being here, as the drought and heat were great. D^imsons, Medlars, Fil- berts, Mulberries, Quinces, Almonds, and Walnuts are all short crops, the trees here being young and exposed — J. Huxtee. Northumberland.— Shawdon Hall, Alnwick.— Last year was one of tho most abundant fruit years ever remembered in this district; this year fruit crops are meagre in the extreme, a result wholly due to tho severity of the spring and early summer months. No amount of protection could save the blossoms. Apricots and Pears suffered the most. Pears on west walls that came later into blossom are in some places an average crop, and in some localities may be seen a fair sprinkling of Peaches on walls, while in others tho whole crop could almost be counted on the fingeis. Tho loss of the Apple crop will be most felt. The later and hardier varieties have suffered less than the earlier sorts; still, the crop is short and de- ficient in every place that I have seen. This is not to be wondered at when I state that the thermometer fell in the garden here to 24 in the second week of May. Every succeeding year I am more and more convinced that we do not possess an Apple better adapted for a general crop in the noith of England than the fine old Cockpit. Tho introduction of dwarf trees into our gardens has given facilities for planting a greater varieties of Apples, but many of them will be found unsuitable to the district, and they will have to be discarded or grafted with old and tried sorts. Plums are in many places a fair average crop, and the trees are clean and healthy. Crops of small fruits are sadly deficient, Gooseberries especially. Currants are, perhaps, rather more abundant. Strawberries good and of fine quality in late places. Raspberries a fair crop, but late. There is a 176 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 12, 1873. variety of this fruit prown ia many gardens in thia district named the Northumberland FiUbasket. It wa3 discovered by a seedsman in Alawick, named Macfarlane, growing in a wild state in some place about his nursery-gronnd. It is distinct in growth and flavour of fruit, and it bears abundantly in some gardens. Ti''ith me it grows very dwarf, and the fruit is excellent in flavour, round, and of aver- age size, and I should think it would prove well adapted for small pardens, as it may be planted thickly, and needs no support. — J. Thomson'. New Blelons.— Has the Melon (see p. 124), in " A. W. H.'s " opinion, attained to such perfection that all attempts to improve it are useless ? If this be not the outcome of his remarks, I am unnbla to find any other. Mr. Richard Gilbert has produced several very li.ie and superior sorts of Melons, and deserves what credit is due for his labours. If the Melon in question, First Lord, proved to be so good as to elicit a high opinion from two gentlemen who are as good i udges of flavour as any in the kingdom, why should we discourage him ? No doubt Melons are already sufficiently productive, and they are, as a rule, quite large enough. Very large Melons are inconvenient. What ia wanted, however, is improved flavour, and that constant. If Mr. Gilbert or any one else can get ns a variety having the richest flavour allied to other good qualities, let him by all means ; and let ua not discourage such labours, even though they be slow aud sometimes disappointing. — A. D. Select Strawberries. — Kindly name a few of the best Straw- berries both tor flavour and productiveness. I have got the follow- ing, and wish to add a few others, viz.. Black Prince, Keen's Seedling, British Queen, Elton Pine, Due do Malakoff, Sir Joseph Paxton, Vicomtesso Hericart de Tbury, and Victoria. I have heard that Princess of Wales ia aa early as Black Prince, and superior to it in flavour; if such be the ease it would be desirable, as the latter does well with me. — -Eeader. [In addition to the Strawberries mentioned, the following would give satisfaction, viz.. La Grosae Sucrec, a very eai'ly sort, and preferable to Black Prince aa regards flavour ; Alexander II., large and handsome in shape, and excellent in flavour, a second early kind ; President, another second early, one of the moat prolific Strawberries grown, and good in flavour; Lucas, a Belgian variety, very large, handsome in shape, and well flavoured ; James Veitch, a large, deep, crimson. coloured variety, a great cropper, and first-rato in flavour. For the latest varieties, Elton Pine and Eleanor are still the best, the former being highly valued for pre- serving by some growers, although I find the Old Scarlet still the best for that purpose. Princess of Wales I have never grown, although I know that it is highly recommended for its earlinoss and flavour. — Willi.im Tillery.] The Supertuberatioa of Early Potatoes. — Since the raina which fell on the Istand 2nd of August I find here that some of tho early Potatoes are showing signs of supertuberating. The new variety. Porter's Excelsior, seems, on taking up the crop, to be very much grown, and I am afraid that others are in the same state. I should recommend all growers to raise their early and second early crops of Potatoes for fear of the tubes being deteriorated by super- tuberation. The lato crops are not ripe enough yet to take a second growth, and now that rain has fallen they may escape. Last year the disease appeared virulently about thia dato in August, but there is no appearance of it yet, tho weather being colder and drier than it was then. — Wir.LiAM Tilleuv. Campanula pyramidalis.— I have just seen a row of this 40 Tarda iu length on a narrow border between a gravel walk and gai-den wall. At the back of the Ca'jipauulas is a row of Uollyhocka of various kinds, and the effect produced is striking and beautiful in tho extreme. If anything could improve it it would be a somewhat larger proportion of blue. To provide for this I should be glad to know if seed of the Campanula would come true to colour, or if tho (lid roots can bo kept over for flowering another season. — L. W. [This Campanula comes perfectly true from seed and Dowers the second year if liberally treated, but it is generally increased by means of side-slips taken oQ: after tho plants have done flowering. To havo this plant in perfection in pots it should be treated as a sub- nquatio by placing tho pots in 1 in. or 2 in. of water.] The Alexander Peach.— Mr. Watkins, ot ralmotta, under (Into of Juno2S_ says :—*' Alexander rino licrc June 10-23; perfectly Eound, full medium nizo, liiKhly coloured, very fraRraiit and fine, lliilo will not Ijo ripo under tun diij'S jut, ns tfiev lire just colouring. Beatrice, Amsden, and otlior early kinds wore out bofnro froo7,o of 20tti March, and killed. Season twonty dayo or more lato. 1 liavo little doubt but tlmt Alexander will ripen eailier from llio bloom than any known variety." Messrs. Silva and Son, ot Newcastle. California, say. May 3lRt ;— " Our Alexanders are bcRinninK to colour up. Tlioy will bo largo BTid flno thia year. Wo are 8tjll patiaflod that llioy arc tho oarlicst-known reach." A Rcntloman in South Carolina reports tho Alexander ripe, this b.ickward Foa-on, leili ot Junt!, largo and flno— the best early Poach ho has ovor seen." — " l*rairiel''armcr." HERBACEOUS PLAISTTS FOR THE WILD GARDEN. " M. L. W." wishes for a list of effective herbaceous plants to inter. sperso amongst his ornamental trees in a wild garden. I should say that there are at least 500 kinds which would succeed in ordinary soil, and particularly in a climate like that of Carnarvon. Your correspondent thould procure "The Wild Garden," from which I first took the idea of mine, and in which he will find lists of plants for all soils and positions. As we require a good stock of plants to make an effect in a large wild place, and aa many are rather expen- sive to buy, it is better to increase by seed or division in the garden proper, as all plants naturally increase more rapidly where they have not to struggle with tho surrounding herbage. Amongst appro- priate subjects of fine habit and foliage the following must not be omitted: — Gnnnora scabra (rich soil and shade). Pampas Grass, Arundo donax (very fine), A. conspicua, Telekia cordifolia, Bocconia cordata, Heracleum iu variety, Centaurea babylonica, Phytolacca decandra, Ferula glaaca, tingitana, and communis. Spiraea Aranous, Yucca in var., Crambe cordifolia, Tritoma in var. (interspersed amongst tho Yuccas), Datisca cannabina, Rhenm Emodi, palmatnm, and ofBcinalo, Polygonum aacchaliense and cuapidatam, all the Acan- thaa tribe. Tree Peonies, &c. Most of the more vigorous, hardy, herbaceous plants will do capitally amongst the Grass and Ferna, and with me the most effective and easily grown are largo clumps of Iria germanica in variety, herbaceous Peonies, Achillea Eupatoria, vigorous kinds of Aconitura, Acta3a racomoaa and spioata, Agrostemma coronaria, Alstra3meria anrea, Aqui. logia vulgaris, Foxgloves, Asters in variety, Carduus eriophorus and heterophyllus, Campannia Trachelium and longifolia, Centaurea montana. Cineraria macrophylla, Fuc'nsias in var., Coronilla varia, Delphiniums, Sweet Williams, Doronicums, Echinops invar., Elymua glaucifoliua, Bpilobiam, Eryngiam iu var., Eupatorinm purpureum, Funkia in var., Galega iu var., Geum coccineum, Helenium autumuale, Ilelianthus orgyalis and multiflorua, Hemeiocallis invar., Hypericum oalycinum, Lythrum roseum superbnm, tho cheaper kinds of Liliea such as L. tigrinum, candidum, pyrenaicam, &c., will do well in partial shade; Linaria dalmatica, Lupinuapolyphyllua, Lychnis chaU cedonica, Monarda in var., Qiluothera marginata and taraxifolia, several of the Orobus family, Papaver orientale and aomniferum (from seed), Pasoalia glauca. Phlox ia var., Polemoninm cosruleum, Polygonatum multifloruui (in partial shade), Pyrcthrum in var., Rudbeckiainvar., Saponaria officinalis fl.-pl., Rolidago in var., Sedum spectabile, Silphium perfoliatnm aud laciniatam, Symphytum in var., Tanaoetum vulgare, 'Tradescantia in var., and Trollius in var., will all succeed well in a wild place amongst Grass and other herbage Y'our correspondent is unfortunate in being obliged to be away from home in the spring, aa that is perhaps tho best time for the wild garden, when carpeted with Primroses, Crocuses, Anemones, and many others. The bank he alludes to should be planted with Clematis montana, Everlasting Peas, Honeysuckles, and others of the samo habit. I hope I may have been of some use to him iu the list I have given, and I am sure that no one who onoo oomraenoes a wild garden will ever repent it, or be without a very fascinating occupation, OxoN. NOTES AHD QUESTIONS-VAEIOUS. Cyanantlius lobatus. — A rather unconiTnon but very pretty plant now in bloom here is the Himalayan Cyananthua lobatus. It prows about 4 in. in height, wiih large, blue, funuol-ehapod Howors with white ceutrea. Tho blooma, though sparingly produced, are very ctTectivo. — Oxok. Lobelia "Lustrous."— This is certainly a great acquieition. I saw it the other day in fine condition, both as regards colour and cjntinuoua blooming j when more generally known it must become a favourite. It had a EtrilEing effect iu some large carpet bods— a quantity grown in pots was equally good, I know of no variety to equal it in any way.— U. llAnnis. Zausclineria californica on a Wall.— I saw this in fine condition last year at DawUsh. It was on a high wall which formed the boundary of a gentleman's pleaauro grounds, tho soil inside where it grew being raised so aa to roach nearly or quite to the top of the wall. Here it seemed at home, and formed a sp'ondid Bcarlot coping or fringe to the wall many yards in length and about 18 in. iu height. With mo, in every situation, it invariably perishes in the winter. — J. M., IlawkcJtttrch, Axminster, Devon, Lifting JEarly Potatoes-— The late drought has acccloratecl tho ripening of early kinds of Potatoes considerably, aud although tho crop is scarcely so heavy as iu some acnsons, the quality is all that can be desired. In most cases it will be expedient to lift early kinds at once, as should wot weather set in a second growth would bo induced which would spoil the quality of the tubers. Ground ckarod at once might be planted with Winter Qrccns and Turnips. — J.G. Chamoepence Casaabonse and diacantha. — These are invaluable in Ibe flower garden, the compact- habit and dense green of Cassabonro being hoight- oned by contrast with the silvery spines of 0. diacantha; as edgings to large beds of tall plants, or as tingle specimens in carpet bods, or aa masses, Ih© Chamfupeuccs are always olTective. Seeds of them sown in February or March, and pushed on in gentle heat, produco fine plants by May.— Jaubs Unoou, THE GARDEN. 177 BATXTBDAT, AtJQTJST 19. 1876. " This is BE art Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but The Abi itsblh is Natubb,"— 5ftrtie«pe black layers of the Surrey and Hampshire hills. It is far richer in all the elements of vegetable life, and by proper treatment all these valuable qualities may be brought out and made serviceable. Indeed, it is worth consideration whether peat in the form of coarse powder would not be worth applying largely to exhausted or clay soil. The attempts to form a compressed fuel from it have hitherto failed as a speculation ; it remains to be seen if any enterprising wight will think of forming out of this now useless substance a patent manure of really valuable quality. Peat that it is intended to use in the garden should not be cast in bricks as it for fuel. It should be carted in the form of what is called technically by the Scotch " stoor," or coarse dust mixed with variously sized fragments. There is always plenty of this lying on the ground whence peat fuel has been removed ; indeed, the "stoor" at the bottom of an old peat-stack is as good as any that can be got. It is not in this state fit for sustaining vegetable life ; it is too strong, and to place young plants in pure peat would succeed as well as to feed young children entirely on beefsteaks and oysters. But mixed with half its bulk of sea or river sand (I prefer the former as retaining moisture longest) and some loam, if desired, added to it (though the last is not necessary), it forms a soil in which all American and most herbaceous and bedding- out plants delight. It is light and yet extremely rich, and, if sea.saud be used, will remain moist under the surface for a very long time. Other advantages which it possesses are, that it is very clean, and does not turn into mud, and that, as a rule, it is very free from insects or worms. Neither sea-sand nor peat in a pure state harbour wire-worm or other pests, and so there is no fear of introducing them, which is the danger of old loam. I have found that delicate herbaceous plants, such as some of the rarer Columbines, &c., make much stronger growth in the peat border than in the ordinary garden soil ; bulbs also increase much faster and thrive better ; all the Lilies seem to prefer it, and autumn-sown annuals make a wonderful growth in it. This, however, is a moist climate, and perhaps in dry climates peat and sand alone, especially river-sand, would get too dry, in which case clay or loam may be added. Enough has been said, it is hoped, to draw the attention of those in whose neighbourhood peat exists to the very valuable unde- veloped supply of the very best material for renewing or manuring exhausted flower and kitchen gardens. Saimoniceps. striped single Petimias and the Drought. —No kinds of tender bedding plants withstand the drought so well as single Petunias, as thoy neither flag nor cease to flower. They should be grown by themselves in large beds, in which they will be found to soon produce a perfect mass of flowers, beautifully varied in colour and in markings, no two t>eing exactly alike. Cuttings of them put in in the autumn, or seeds of a good strain sown in a gentle heat iu the spring, will produce strong plants to bed out.— D, 182 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 1% 1876. NOTES OF THE WEEK. EUCRYPHIA riNiVATU'OLiA. — This remarkable new flowering tree has recently blossomed in Measrs. Veitch's Nurseries, at Combe Wood. It ia a Chilian tree, with leaves like those of a Service-tree, and large creamy. white flowers, each with a great number of very fine gold-tipped filaments in the centre. The very hot weather has hastened the decay of these ; but it is clearly a most important gain for our gardens. Green Giiass im IItde Park. — The Grass among the flower-beds in Hyde Park is being watered as in Paris, and with the same result — a green sward in hot weather. Watering about London in warm weather ia quite as necessary to secure a fresh turf as about Paris. Ulmus Koezli. — The leaves of this beautiful Elm are delicately suffused with golden yellow, which nearly extends to the tender, green fringe which edges the leaf. It may now be seen in perfec- tion at Messrs. Lee's Nursery, at Hounslow. This might well be called the Golden Fern-leaved Elm. IlELiANTnus cucuMEKiFOLius. — This new Texan Sunflower, to which we directed attention (see Vol. VIII., p. 212) is now in flower at Chiswick. It is an annual which grows about 3 ft. in height, and flowers profusely at the points of the shoots. The flowers are of a deep golden yellow, and have a striking black disc in the centre. It will bo useful in largo borders, and for planting on the margins of shrubberies. CoKNUS MASCULA ELECANTissiMA.— This is a remarkably beautiful form of a well-known shrub, the mature leaves of which, as we write, are broadly and irregularly margined with rosy crimson. In the earlier growths this margin is yellow, so that the plant presents two distinct aspects in its variegation. This fine shrub isnow growing in Messrs. Lee's Nursery, at Hounslow. Large Evergreen Magnolia and Camellia. — The Marquis della Valle de Casanova sends us photographs of noble specimens of Magnolia grandiflora growing in a garden oa the Lago Maggiore. It is 4S ft. high, 114 ft. in circumference, thetrunk being 3 ft. in diameter; this gives us an idea of what a noble tree the Magnolia makes in a temperate region. He also sends a photograph of a plant, or rather a tree, of the Camellia rubra maxima. On this specimen, in the month of April, 1871, Mr. J. Linden, Mons. E. Andre, and the marquis counted between them 6000 and 7000 expanded blossoms. Eucalyptus Montana in Devon.— Mr. Luscombe, of Combe Royal, Kingsbridgo, Devon, writes to ns as follows respecting this plant : It blooms, he says, annually in the grounds at Combe Royal. The tree purchased many years ago, under the name of E. montana, is a very vigorous specimen, nearly 60 ft. high, with a stem 6 ft. Sin. in cir. cumferenee 2 ft. from the ground. It seems to be growing through- ont the year, and has only once been slightly injured by an unusually severe frost in the spring, when the more immature shoots were a little damaged. It has grown almost too large for the situation which it occupies, as several really large limbs have been taken off which were injuriously overhanging a vigorous Cham;orops oxoelsa many feet in height, as well as other good shrubs. It is graceful in its growth and flowers freely. Unfortunately it cannot be propagated, as the seeds which are produced abundantly arc not suUioiently matured to germinate, and cuttings and layers refuse to grow. Potato Disease.— Mr. Tillery, of Welbock, writes:— " The other day one of my labourers brought me some Potatoes specked with the Potato fungus in the inside of the tubers. They were all from ono plant, and ho said that he could not perceive any signs of the brown blotches on the haulm. The present hot, dry weather is ngainst tho development of the fungus on the haulm or foliage, and if it is first seen in tho inside of the tubers it is a new phase in tho history of tho disease. There may, however, be some specks of tho fungus on tho haulm near the ground, not easily detected, and this might infest tho tubers. Tho early Potato crops in this district are, owing to tho dry weather, very deficient in quantity and size, and tho prices in the markets are rising higher. I am afraid the late crops will likewise suffer from the dry weather, and there will be great danger of them taking a second growth should September be very wot. August 14 and l.'j have been two of the , hottest days registered this summer, 85' and 86' in tho shade beino reached on each day respectively." ° AniELE.xis JiACRANTiiA.— Wo shonid bo greatly obliged to any reader who would send us a few seeds of this plant, which wo desire to send to a correspondent in Italy, where the iutroduotion of plants is forbidden, owing to fear of the Phylloxera. LiLiUM Wallichianum.— This is now in blossom at Colchester. It is a grand Lily of the longiflorum section, creamy.whito in colour, and about 'J in. long. It is a very suilablo kind for irroenhousu culture. very suilablo kind for greenhouse HARDY FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. Still the hot weather, and as yet our hardy friends remaia with us. One of the most splendid of tho week is the Double Day Lily (Hemerocallis distioha, fl.-pl.) Our blue Salvia patens also comes in to cheer us. The double Pyrethrums, which came in earlier this summer, are now blooming splen- didly at Ware's Nursery. A green Dabhain the same garden will hardly satisfy florists, although it is very curious. Frequently subjects that we associate with early summer flower a second time in autumn ; the present year is hardly a favourable one for such second crops, but amongst them we notice Armeria alpina grandiflora. The Scarlet Lychnis is still bright and beautiful. Japan Anemones have also come in, the white one being the fluest. Dahlia ccccinoa is also amongst tho scarlet flowers of the period. Mimulus alatus is a delicately-coloured Californian species, but not worthy of cultivation. Pentstemons are vci-y fine as we write. Amongst British flowers tho most beautiful is tho Gentiana Pueumo- nantho. Oxalis floribuuda rosea is very attractive, so is Lilium superbum. Dwarf Balsams Out-of-doors. — At Bedfont, where Balsams are grown out-of-doors for seed, I noticed the other day a very dwarf and compact strain, which looked as if it might prove useful for culture in small pots and for market work. As grown in the open ground these Balsams attain a neight of about 9 in., and measure about the same in diameter ; they were covered with bloom and foliage, and promised to make pretty edging plants for taller-growing kinds. These handsome plants can be produced in 48-sized pots, and larger from 32's, but the former is the nsual market size, as they occupy little space. There are four distinct colours or markings in the flowers, scarlet self, purple self, white-flaked scarlet, and white- flaked purple; beyond these hues they have nob yet broken. The taller-growing, large-fiowered kinds bloom most profusely in the open ground, in which they are very beautiful. The colours range through pure white, creamy-white, rosy-white, pink, carmine, scarlet, peach, ma,uve, purple, crimson, and several blotched and flaked forms, forming about twenty varieties. The culture is of the simplest kind ; the young plants are dibbled out into well-prepared ground at tho end of May, in rows 15 in. apart. — S. Roses. — These will require plenty of water, and where well mulched, the second display of flower will bo well advanced by this time, and in some places a good supply of blooms for cutting will be kept up till frost clears all off. Early-started buds should be secured, so as to keep them from getting damaged by high winds and rains. Keep down mildew by means of sulphur, as mildew retards growth very much, and young fresh buds suffer greatly from it. It sulphur be used, it will be required to bo syringed off as soon as the mildew is stopped. Old favourite kinds of Hoses, such as Gloire do Dijon, prince Camille de Rohan, Anna de Diesbach, Captain Christy, Celine Porestier, and Charles Lefebvre have flowered well this dry season. The last is one of the most useful Roses grown for catting. Those who grow quantities of pot Roses will have found thorn very useful this summer for cutting purposes, especially the Tea Roses, which are scarcely ever out of bloom. Tea Roso Duchess of Edin- burgh is a v.iUiablo addition to our collections; it is a free grower, and a wonderfully free-Uowering variety. In habit it is similar to Souvenir d'un Ami, growing and flowering quito as freely, and its dark colour will make it much more valuable than that kind for winter forcing. I bavo forced it, and have found it to bo must useful for that purpose. — K. G. Salpiglossis grandiflora.— A larjjo bod ot this fiuo hardy annual is just now in llowor at Cliiswick, whoro for a time it will bo a strikinR object. Sown in Lho placo whoro it is prowiiiff tho folia^o cnLiroIy covofii tho bjd, and the llnwcrs, which vary greatly in colour, somo boinij boailtifully poucilloJ, arc borno woU above it. This ia emphatically an annual worthy of attention. — A, Pelargonium-flowered Erodinm (B. polarKoniflorum). — This boautital ppccies has been in lliio bloom with mo in tlio open border for tho last thrco wooks. 1 kept it in the yreenhouso durioy tho winter, and plautod it out early in May. It has eoraewhat tho habit ot tho old K. hyemodes, but is much neater in Rrowtli. Its large white Howera, with a Rreat purple-feathered blotch on tho two upper ])otalB. are n beautiful eicht when fully expanded on a cool nioining afLcr a shower. — H. Uaui'US Cuawji, Dnti/tfjit-JJeauchamp Bectt/rj/, Tr.iiq. A Good Contrast.— LarRO plants of Echovoria metallica ond Contaurea Cleuiontt contrast well with ona another, either in the shape of altornato plants nr rows, tho deep bronze and stiff formal habit of the Echoveria beiu? greatly heijfhtened and pct nir to advantai^o by being in closo jiroxiinity lo tho line fcracoful fulingo of tho charmiuj; silrory Ucutauroa,- Jiass Cjsaou, Uen- hum. Aug. 19, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 183 Tiger Lily (Lilium tigi-Jnum). Oxalie corniculata var. ■Valeriana macrosiphon. Persioaria (Polygonum oriental e). Cardinal-flower Lobelia (ti. cardinalls). Crimson Mallow (Callirhoe involucrata). B je Balm (Monarda didjma). SOME HABDT FLOWEES OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. 184 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 19, 1876. THE FLOWER GARDEN. NEW VARIETIES OF ESCHSCHOLTZIA. Or the ;e handsome hardy annuals, California has given us three Bpeciea, viz., E. californica, yellow ; E. crocea, saffron; and E. compac a,a dwarf-growing form, with yellowandorangeflowers, now bu little grown. From Mexico carae E.fumai-isefolia, which is no IV bat seldom met with ; and elsewhere we obtained the delioa'-' y-formed E. tenuifolia, a kind also with yellow flowers, and specially adapted by its character and habit of growth for rockeries and edgings. Keally the Eschscholtzias arc hardy perennials, but they are invariably found classed with hardy annuals ; and by some they are treated as biennials. It was hardly to be expected that such singularly effective flowers could find a place in English gardens without efforts being put forth to improve them, or at least to obtain new types, of which E. crocea has been somewhat prolific, and these have been mainly obtained by selection. One selection has received the name of aurantiaca, because of the fine glowof deep golden orange contained on the flowers ; the colour is rich, and it is a most striking form. E. alba, as its name implies, has white flowers, and is a selection from E. crocea; the flowers are perhaps smaller in size than those of the parent, but it is a good, useful, white- flowering hardy plant. A selection was once made under the name of alba grandiflora, really a lai-ge-flowering, white kind, but I fear it never became fixed ; had it been so, it would have proved a great acquisition. Another selection, having a dwarf, close, symmetrical growth, was named compacta, but it also has never, to my knowledge, been distributed. E. rosea is a Continental novelty, introduced a few years ago, but a disap- pointing one. It is simply B. alba with a rose-coloured tint on the outside of the petals, and when fully expanded the flowers present a white rather than a rosy appearance, as might have been expected. E. crocea has also yielded a striped form, or rather it came on aurantiaca, for the orange ground has small lemon stripes, and when well displayed it is very pretty. There is, however, always a tendency to revert to the orange-coloured self form. Once there did appear a chance of having a double form of crocea, but that, I fear, has vanished a few years ago. E. crocea gave forth some flowers having notched petals, and orange and sulphur forms were selected, under the names of dentata aurantiaca and dentata sulphurea, and distributed as novelties. They are, however, not much grown, for, notwithstanding that variety has charms, the flowers have a ragged appear.ance, which is not inviting. So much, then, for descriptions of the various forms of Esch- scholtzias which have been produced from time to time. All these selections from E. crocea wore made, with the exception of E. rosea, at Dedham and St. Osyth; and if any one be desirous of studying annuals, they cannot do better than pay a visit to Messrs. Carter's seed farms there in July and August, when the annuals and other flowers are in full bloom. Especially interesting is it to get some insight into the various selections being made from time to time with a view to the introduction of new forms. As soon as the slightest departure from the normal character is noticed it is at once marked, and the seed is carefnlly saved and grown by itself another year. Some- times the sport will go back the first year and be lost ; in other cases it will remain true for a fewyeai-s and then become extinct. Any sport requires from ten to fifteen years' per- sistent selection to fix it, and not always then permanently. To have these showy flowers in all their fulness of beauty, they should be treated as biennials, and sown in August and September to bloom in early summer. They are very hardy, and snails and slugs do not molest them. The plants get deeply and firmly rooted, and hold on much longer than those sown in spring. I have seen in May grand patches of Esch- scholtzias literally covered with large, bold, and striking blos- soms. Tho fact is, that one-half, if not more, of our hardy annuals, when sown in spring, scarcely get well hold of the soil before tho dry weather sets in, and then they come into bloom, and are roasted up in a short time. With autumn- sown annuals, on the contrary, and especially with Eschscholt- zias, it is very different; they hold on well, and if tho decaying flowers be pinched off, and tho plants not allowed to perfect their seed-pods, they break into fresh growths, and bloom con- tinuously. Some recommend sowing as late as December, allowing the plants to flower where they are sown, and not attempting to transplant them. For autumn sowing the varieties most to be preferred are — E. crocea, B. crocea auran- tiaca, and E. crocea alba. R. D. Funkias in the Wild Oarden. — We have often spoken of the conditions in the wild garden being more suitable to many plants than those which obtain in what might seem choice positions in borders, &c., many of the plants attaining greater beauty and remaio- ing longer in bloom in the shade and shelter of shrubby places than when fully exposed. As an instance of this, we may mention that we saw Funkia coorulea the other day, showing a size and beauty in a shady, woody place at Beauport, near Battle, which wo have never seen it attain under other circumatances. The plant was over a yard high, and bore many stately stems hung with blue flowers. The Fankiag, by the way, are exceedingly valuable plants for the wild garden, not being liable to accidents which are fatal to Lilies and other plants exposed to the attacks of slags and rabbits.— V. Double-spathed Arum. Lilies. — In Vol. X., p. 55 of The Gakden, a double-spathed Arum Lily is figured. Last May I grew one that, judging from the representation in question, was more per. feet. It was the seventh flower that opened on the same plant during the winter and spring. I sent it to the " American Agriculturist," and it was noticed in the July number of that paper (sea p. 215). I dry my Dallas off in June, placing tbe pots on their sides under tho potting bench or wherever it is dry, and leave them there till the end of September or beginning of October, when I give them a good soaking of water, turn them out of their pots, remoro the old soil, and break off all small bulblets. Then I pot the large bulbs in a compost, consisting of two-thirds loam, the other third equal parts of leaf-mould, and well-decomposed stable manure, with a good sprinkling of sand. Last autumn I put four bulbs in a 12in. pot, and during the winter I had eighteen blooms from the one pot, some of them measuring 8 in. across. This specimen I grew in an early Vinery that was started in December, and when it commenced bloom- ing I gave it liquid manure twice a week. If blooms of this Lily be wanted in summer, the plants must be dried off in winter ; but with na the blooms are more valuable in winter. I used at one time to keep Callas continually growing, a system under which one was never sure of their blooming, but since I commenced to dry them oS and re-pot them I have never failed to secure good blooms, — W. Baekham, Hohokus, New Jersey, U.S. Tropeeolum Bothwell Castle, and Dumfries House Seed- ling^.— Bothwell Castlo Tropoeolum is a grand plant for covering bare walls and fences with a sheet of bright scarlet in summer. It has been, according to " The Gardener," in great beauty used in this way at Bothwell Castle, and also trained on stakes in the form of pyramids. Dumfries House Tropasolum, raised by Mr. Pettigrew, now of Cardiff Castle, is however very much superior in all respects to Bothwell Carsle, and that is saying very much for it j it is particularly valuable for draping walls and fences. So superior is it to any other similar Tropoeolum that we have ever tried, that it is the]only one we grow now, and we can very strongly recommend it for walls, pyramids, and rookeries. Hardy Crinums — C. ornatum. — Quito a feature just now in the border outside the curvilinear range at Glasneviu is Crinam ornatum. Fancy a Crinnm with a stem nearly as thick aa that of tho giant C. amabile of our stoves, with flaccid, spreading leaves, each some 5 ft. or more in length, and where widest 6 in. broad, with a flower-stem 4 ft. high, and thick and stout as a walking- stick, and crowned with an umbel of a score of pendulous, white, rose-tinted flowers, each nearly as large as that of tho Belladonna Lily, and the reader will have a good idea of this grand, hardy Amaryllid. Yes, perfectly hardy ; for some six years or so have it and its companion plant, C. Moorei, stood out without tho slightest protection, and among these years were some of a character to make the tost of hardihood one of tho most crnoial kind. These two magnificent Crinums are gains indeed to our gardens, and for their introduotion and tho interesting fact of showing their hardihood, the lovers ot choice hardy plants have reason to fool indebted to Dr. Moore and Glasnovin. There are, too, according to the " Irish Farmers' Gazette," several other new and interesting plants in flower there just now, but which our space will not admit of noticing this week, among others the stately Natal Hyacinth (Hyaointhus candioans). Caraway-leaved Erodinm {E. cavuitolium).— Th'.s, which ia leaf much roicinhlos K. romftnum, and in flower E. macrodenum, is now finely in bloom. It iH iho neatest of all tho Erodiams in Rrowth, and makes a beautifully fresh proen compact tuft, studded with numerous spikes of rosy-lilac and purple flowers,— H. HabphB Cbiwb, Drayton-Brmichamp Xrcfori/, Tring. Aug. 19, 1876, THE GARDEN. 185 A ilODE OF PLANT PACKING. The methods of packing plants, shown in figs. 1 and 2, aro tniicU naed on the Continent, their great merit lying in the qaictness with which the operation is performed, which is often a matter of great importance to the packer. It is used especially in the case of small plants which have not far to go. As shown in fig. 1, the plants are simply laid horizontally in a basket of the form indicated, pots and all, without any of the trouble of putting Moss aronnd the roots. A first layer of plants being placed in the basket, the beads are covered with dry Moss or chopped straw, and others are laid on the top until the basket is full. The whole is then covered with straw, which is cut at each end of the basket so as to allow it to close. The straw should be pressed down with a certain amount of firmness, so that the plants may not shake about during their journey. Baskets of this shape may be used for longer journeys, in which case the roots of the plants ought to be surrounded with Moss, which must be rather dry than damp. If the plants are particularly delicate, their heads should be wrapped up in paper so as to prevent fermentation and consequent decay. If the plants be of large size, the method of packing shown in fig. 2 is to be preferred, more especially if they be tender, or if the contemplated journey be a long one. In this case the plants are placed vertically instead of horizontally, that is to say, in their natural position, besides which the air has freer access to them. If FiR. 1. ri3. 2. in pots, or with a ball of earth attached, they ought to be packed as closely as possible, so as to avoid shaking. Sometimes the sizes of the heads prevents this, in which case the spaces intervening between the pots or balls of earth should be filled up with Moss, chopped straw or hay. The latter material is objectionable, owing to its being liable to ferment. A cord is then passed round the plants at the base of the stem, and properly secured, so as to hold all firm. Delicate plants and those which are in bloom should be packed with great caution, and wrapped in pieces of paper. All the plants having been placed in the basket, they should be tied up carefully with bast, or some supple tying material. Sticks of the proper height should then be stuck firmly in the sides of the basket and brought to a point at the top and tied, the tops being cut off even. The sticks should bo kept apart here and there by hoops fixed inside. The whole is then surrounded by straw or matting, and properly secured by means of strong twine. F. Jamin. Bourg-la-Seine. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FLOWEE GARDEN. Hyacinthus candicans.— This is blooming well in the open border witli me, and is pioducinfr a flower-etem 3 ft. 4 in. in height, crowned with a couple of dozen of large and handsome, pure white, pendulous blossoms ; those that first opened are now setting freely for seed, bo that this handsome Port Natal border plant will, I hope, soon become plentiful.— W. E. Gb^tbietoh-, Belgrove, Quccnsfotcn. This seems perfectly hardy here. It has been out in the ground all the winter, and it is now showing a fine spike of bloom.— T. M. Bulkeibi-Owes-, Tedtmore Sail, Wat Felion, SlrolKliire. The Prairie Rose.- Tou ask what the Prairie Hose is. Its proper name is " Prairie Qneen." It is a hardy, climbing Bose which fiowers in clusters, the blossoms of which they consist being a deep pink colour and double. With me. on poor soil, thev measure about 2iiD. across ; last season it made a crowth of 20ft. and 1 in. thick at the ground. I have never tried it as a stock for gratt- ing or budding, but I think it would be suitable for such purposes, as it is a good grower and very tree bloomer.— W. Babiham, Sohckut, New Jcrtey, U.S. TODBA SUPEEBA AS A ROOM FERN. There is an impression that it is diflicnlt, if not impossible, to grow this lovely Fern in the sitting-room. It may interest some of your readers to know how it may, by very simple means, be reared to the greatest beauty with much less trouble or difficulty than any of the Adiantum type. Four years ago our plant was a tiny seedling with a couple of fronds barely an inch long, and we were warned by every one that it would be dead in a month. The first object was to secure for it — so far as could be done in a sitting-room constantly occn. pied, and the greater part of the year with both gaslight and fire- heat — its natural conditions — a damp atmosphere, very moderate light, and complete exclusion from direct sun. With this view the thumb.pot containing it was sunk to rather over its brim in a shallow seed-pan filled with live Hypnum Moss, and a bell-glass placed over the whole. A 3-in. one was at first sufficient. We chose Hypnum in preference to either Sphagnum or any of the dwarf Selaginellas in the hope that it wonld keep always fresh and green under these con- ditions, a hope which has been amply fulfilled. At varying times, from ouce in ten days to once a month, according to the weather, Todea and Moss alike were dewed well over with tepid water through a fine rose, the glass being at once replaced. This treatment has been ever since continued, the containing vessel and the bell-glasses being enlarged as required. It now more than fills a 24.in. glass, the largest I have been able to procure. There are upwards of fifty fronds, from 8 in. to 15 in. long, and 6 in. to 9 in. broad, and were a larger glass procurable or greater size manageable, it could be easily grown to rival the largest exhibition specimen. The persistence of the fronds is extraordinary. Only three have ever been cut away, and these were so, because they had been partially scorched by the sun having accidentally struck on them where they touched the glass. Its position has always been on the floor at a north bow-window, under a large Wardian case, which to a great extent shades it. Under these circumstances a certain degree of blanch, ing might have been expected j on the contrary, the depth of the green far surpasses all 1 have seen in any specimen grown in the ordinary way ; the fronds are always gemmed over with myriads of tiny diamonds, and their delicate transparency is such that on holding a sheet of white paper behind one of them its whole interior structure comes into view. Direct sunlight is never allowed to strike on it. It has only once been re-potted — a few months after we got it, and then only into a 3-in. pot, in which it still remains. On that occasion we found that nearly all the curious filmy roots had left the pot, striking over its surface and rambling all through the Hypnum. It baa never since shown the least sign of being straitened for pot-room, or of failing to find in the Moss all the sustenance it needs. The Moss, again, was supplied with no soil whatever, and has all along maintained the most vigorous health and a delicacy of beauty almost rivalling that of the Todea, apparently from the slow decay of the lower portions of it. For two or three years it has been seeding freely ; and it is not easy to give an idea to those who have not seen it in this state, how the small, jet-black, gleaming sporangia add to the beauty of the fronds. Unlike any genera I can at present recall, these fertile fronds remain persistent, and do not decay. Last year one or two seedlings were discovered struggling up through the Moss, one of which was safely potted off, and is now being brought up, with every prospectof success, exactly like its parent. This year there is the appearance of a large crop of this, though of course it is doubtful whether they will not be overpowered in their first conferva-looking stage by the Hypnum. The plant was one of a large batch of seedlings raised by Mr. Pat. terson, Millbank, near Edinburgh. Whether it has to some extent "sported," or whether one or two peculiarities are due to the way in which it has been grown, I cannot say. These peculiarities are, that the stipe is longer than in the normal form ; the fronds are more triangular in form ; and they are also more " furzy," so to speak. I incline, however, to think there has been a slight degree of sporting, as our seedling, so far as we can yet judge, though under the very same treatment, approaches much more closely the normal type. Any of your Fern-loving readers who may be induced to try the experi. ment will, I am satisfied, find this exquisite species, once started, give less trouble to grow to full beauty in fire-heated, gas-lighted rooms than attends our own Lady Fern, by following out this mode of culture, or such modification of it as may occur to them. The essen. tial points are — a constantly damp atmosphere around the plant ; a considerable degree of shade and careful exclusion of direct sunrajs from it ; and any free loose medium, such as Hypnum or other dwarf Moss, through which the roots may ramble. — " The Gardener." Hanging Baskets.— We use quantities of these for conservatory decora- tion. Our summer baskets contain seedling Petunias, Tropwolnms of different sorts, and Ivy-leaf Pelargoniums, and for late autumn and winter we havo large baskets of Selaginella umbrcsa ; but the prettiest one we have ever yet had consists of a mixture of Blue King Lobelia and Fuchsia gracihs variegata, with a good dark Fuchsia for a centre plant.— H. J. C. 186 THE GARDEN. [Aug. IP, 1876. GARDEN CEMETERIES. We have several times alluded to the beauty, extent, and care- ful planting of the cemeteries formed within the past genera- tion or so near all the great American cities, and now publish two engravings which imperfectly represent the beauty of one ortwoscencs inthecemeteries at Spring Grove, near Cincinnati. These are engraved from photographs sent to us by Mr. F. L. Olmsted. These noble garden cemeteries are of great inter- est from many points of view, and the following extracts from the published report of Spring Grove Cemetery throws some light on the plans and principles of the management there, which, as it is said, produced even better results than are seen elsewhere in America. Cemeteriea in America, as well aa in Earope, are conducted on various plana. A number of these are under the control of the city authoritiea, and, of course, are seldom self-supporting. Others, again, are the property of religious communities, which sometimea manage to pay expencea, and have at times something left for the benefit of the church ; but there is very little security to the owners of lots, for the city coun- cil or the trustees of the church may at anytime paas anordin. acce for the removal of the dead to other quarters, particularly if the burial ground be situated in or near a city, and has become valuable for other purposes. In that case the last resting-place of the dead is easily condemned aa a nuisance, and the conse- crated ground is sold for building purposes, merely for the Bake of gain. Again, others are owned by one or more individuals, aa ia the case in Philadelphia, Chicago, and other places, and thia plan has thus far given general satis- faction to the public. The largest and most popular institu- tions of this kind, however, are those where every lot-holder ia a member of the corporation, and the entire income ia devoted to the improvement and perpetual care of the ground. Mt. Auburn, near Boston, Greenwood, near New York, and Spring Grove, are conducted on thia principle, and have BO far proved succeaafnl. They have, by proper manage, ment, already accumulated a con. siderablo aurplua, and there is not the least doubt that, in a few years, they will have a fund, the interest of which will be more than BulBcient to keep the grounda perpetually in complete order, after all burial lots shall have been sold, and the diaposi- tion of the finances of such corporations tor this special object should be steadily kept in view. Those engaged in laying out a rural cemetery should bo par. ticnlar in the selection of a suitable spot, sufficiently remote from tho habitations of the living, yet of eaay access. The aui*face of the ground should bo undulating rather than flat, in order to admit of proper drainage, while a sandy subsoil is desirable on many accounts. In taking posseasion of tho land tho first step should be to have a correct survey made, and a general plan of improvement agreed upon, the execution of which should be in tho hands of a man who under, stands his business thoroughly. It is tho constant doing and undoing which has caused not only great waste of money, but also what is more valuable, loss of time, in many cemeteriea. Plana designed by inexperienced persons may look exceedingly well on ))aper, but when they are executed they generally produce an effect that ia pitiable, nnauitable, and unsatisfactory. Largo undertakings of this kind should consoquenlly bo begun, directed, and finished by one expori. enced perpon. If the grounds selected for a cemetery be wooded with native forest trees, the greatest care should be taken for their preaervation, at leaat on those parts that cannot conveniently be used for burial purposes, anoh aa marshes, deep ravines, and ateep declivi. ties. Another very important, and perhapa tho most important, point in the laying.outot cemeteries, ia the proper location and construction of avenues. It must be remembered that at times very heavy loads of stone and other materials will enter the grounds, and large num. hers of carriages congregate together, not only when funorala take place, but on other occasions. If, therefore, avenues be made of ample width, and constructed in the best possible manner, carriages will invariably encroach on the Grass borders, and heavy loads will sink into the ground. It is not necessary to make aa many avenues aa are found in most cemeteries, for some will seldom be used, par. ticularly if they have a ateep grade, and are laid out in the so-called serpentine atyle, generally very popular with committees, but very expensive in making, on account of the waste of valuable ground, and still more so in keeping them in order afterwarda. Avenues ahonld have an easy grade, graceful curves, and be so located as to give to each section a natural outline. In regard to the necessity of every burial lot fronting on an avenue, seclusion is more in unison with the feelings of many friends of the dead than publicity, glare, and notoriety. In forming new combinations, perspectives, and groupings, we should bo very cautious in the selection of suit, able places for monumental structures, aa well aa in the planting of additional trees and shrubs. Choice shrubberies and flower bordera particularly de- mand limitation, no matter how fashionably patronised, for, if immoderately extended, as they very often are, they only mark the triumph of luxury over ele- gance, and afford a poor compen. sation for the natural advantage of beautiful green Grass plots, that can be kept in order with very little expense. In relatiim to the improvement of individual burial lota in Spring Grove, cor. siderable good taste baa been die- played by lot. holders. A large number of them have adopted a method, which for simplicity, appi'opriateness, and durability, deserves tho attention of all who wish to make permanent improve- ments that will take care of themselves, and cost but a trifle when compared with the old method of decorating lots. The portions of tho grounds improved ou the new plan, already form a striking contrast to some of the older parts, where head and foot atones, hedges, fences, and toys of all descriptions, are huddled together in such profusion as to prevent tho workmen of the corporation from keeping those places iu tho same good order as tho first named, notwith. standing all the outlay and exertion on the part of the agents of tho corporation to satisfy every reaaouablo demand of lot-holders. Enclosures around burial Iota, in ,a well-governed cemetery, detract from the sacredness of tho scone, by supposing it possible that such a place would bo visited by persons incapable of coudueticg them. selves properly, or that tho grounds were pastured by cattle. They also cause considerable inconvenience when iutermenta are made, as well as in the erection of moimmonts, and coat the corporation more labour than most poraons are aware of. There are some parts of this cemetery whore lot-holders have invested money in stone work, as if the embellishments of a burial place depended upon their out. lays, and have produced effects, which people of cultivation regret, though they cannot amend. Such improvements, however inappro. priate, are, nevertheless, evidences of the existence of those means, which, if properly applied, would produce monuments worthy of admiration, instead of gewgawa manifesting pretension only. In order to prevent our rural cemeteries from assuming, iu iho course of time, a crowded appearance, there should bo a standing Grovo Cemetery Ave. 19, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 187 rule to prevent the erection of more than one monument to each family burial lot. This should be placed in the centre, and on a Bolid foundation not less than 6 ft. deep, the usual depth of graves, so that burials can be made around the monument, and the respective inscriptions be placed on it, thus saving the expense of head and foot stones, which always more or less convey the idea of a potter's field, particularly where single interments aro located, and where people to all appearances vie with each other in procuring the tallest head- stones and the largest amount of ornament, causing great difficulty in keeping such places in proper order. Wherever grave marks are necessary, they should project but little above the surface of the ground, and be not much larger than ordinary landmarks to lots, but placed deep enough to be below the action of frost. In some instances lot-holders have planted a tree in place of the monument nntil a Buitable one can be procured, or, sometimes, even to remain various kinds of Oak, of Nature's own planting centuries ago. The effect produced by the brilliant colours which most of these trees and shrubs assume in autumn, is truly magnificent. The introdnc. tion of varieties of Evergreens, whose perennial verdure is particu. larly appropriate for ornamenting places of sepulture, has contributed much to mitigate the bleak desolation of winter. The varieties of situations and soil at Spring Grove, in which it may be desirable to plant the various kinds of trees and shrubs, are very numerous, and no treatise, however elaborate in detail, could bring the whole under review. From the practice of indiscriminate and capricious plant, ing by those who own lots, a large number have had cause to regret some untoward results. Choice specimens of trees are often seen to injure each other by too close planting, and, in many instances, proprietors of lots obstinately refuse to permit the removal of some in order to save others, until it is too late. Rare and beautiful speci- View in a Garden Cemetery (Spring Grove). permanently, which is very desirable on sections where there is already a great abundance of tomb-stones. The arboriculturist, in particular, will find Spring Grove a place of great interest. It has been the desire of the directorate from the first, to introduce a variety of suitable representatives of the vege- table kingdom into these grounds. In this they were considerably assisted by the lot-holders themselves, the most prominent of them being members of the Cincinnati Horticultural Society, in which Society originated the idea of establishing a rural cemetery in this spot. The greater part of the grounds, when purchased, was, as stated before, densely covered with native forest trees. In the lower or southern portion, the Elm, Sycamore, and Ash, predominate ; the central part of the grounds is chiefly covered with Tulip trees. Sugar Maples, Sassafras, &c., while the western division is almost exclusively occupied with Beech, Sour Gum, Iled-bud,and Dog-wood. The northern part is adorned with some of the finest groves of mens are found hidden and destroyed by others of an inferior de- scription, which should be removed. The largest and bast grown apscimeus of Evergreens on these grounds are the following :— Pinus austriaca, Cembra, excelsa, Laricio, Mughus, Pumilio, ponderosa, rubra, rigida, Strobus, and sylvestris. Abies alba, nigra, rubra, canadensis, excelsa, orientalis, and Douglasi. Picea balsamea, nobilis, Nordmanniana, Pichta, pectinata, and Pinsapo. Juniperus oblonga pendula, snecica, hiber. nica, virginiana glauca, and Sabina. Thuja occidentalis, orientalis, tartarica, filitormis, aurea. Taxns baccata, canadensis, and others.^ In consequence of the fostering protection afforded to birds in and around these grounds, the admiring ornithologist has frequently an opportunity to see those feathered songsters in large flocks, at times actually covering the lawns, particularly in tbe morning or towards evening, in search of food. We here see the nest of the oriole suspended from a projecting branch. The chattering Cedar 18- THE GARDEN. [Aug. 19, 1876. birds and starlings enliven the dense Evergreens, while the thrush, the robin, and the cardinal, pour out their soft and melodious notes. The titmouso and the wren are also quite numerous, and at times the passenger pigeon in seen in extraordinary nmltitudes, while the cooing note of the dove is heard often. A large number of foreign birds wero introduced a few years ago by some of our lot. holders, among them were the skylark and the European blackbird. The area of Spring Grove is considerably over 300 acres of nndu. lating surface, mostly of sandy subsoil, and abundantly supplied with water and forest scenery. The numerous springs and the ancient groves of trees suggested the name of Spring Grove. The present plan of improvement was adopted by the board of directors in 1855, at the suggestion of Adolph Strauch, the superintendent and landscape gardener since that time. Those parts of Spring Grove planted in tlie first years of its fixistence, are now being gradually remodeled in conformity with the simplicity of the present style of improve- ment, at the request of the lot-holders themselves. Since the adop- tion of the present style of improvement the financial condition of tho association has also very much improved, and a largo surplus fund has been laid aside for tho perpetual care of the grounds after all burial lots shall have been sold. MY DIARY FOR SEVEN TEARS. By J. DENNING. August 21. — Sowing — Frogmore and Walcheren Cauliflower; Lobelia speciosa, sixteen pots put in cutting-pit covered with glass ; Silene, Saponaria, Nemophila, and Virginian Stocks; Mignonette in pots, and also for tree Mignonette ; Sir Harry Strawberry seed put in cold cutting-frame. Pottiny — Iloulletias and Calanthe veratrifolia ; potting off winter Heliotrope cuttings ; putting pots down by Chrysan- themums ready for layering them ; pntting off first sown Intermediate Stocks; potting Oncidium macranthum, tigrinum,hastatuQj, and Odon- toglossum hastiiabiaui in Sphagnum Moss. Cuttincis — Put inof Senecio, Veronica Anderson! variegata, Salvia splendens, Guaphalium lanatuni ; Pansies ; Hydrangea; Roses in slight heat in frame ; got nearly all Pelargonium cuttings in ; got all the Verbena, Heliotrope, and Petunia cuttings in ; put iu Scrophularia, G^izania, Centaurea (better in spring), and Agathpoa; also more variegated Pelargonium cuttings. Putthiij in — Sums Fuchsia cuttings ; also Oxalis, Sago, Balm, Ga- zania, and Pelargoniums of conservatory sorts, Zonals. J'ricking out — More Wallflowers for winter flowering. Miscellaneous — Netting Plums ; also the Do Montfort Plum and Apricots ; finishing the summer nailing, second time over; pegging down the Petunias again ; staking the latest-sown Peas ; putting Madame Vaucherand Mrs. Pollock under cover for stands ; re-arranging stand plants, picUiugoff expanded blooms except those wanted immediately ; shifting Balsams, as far as ready ; shifting a few OJontoglossams, which are not healthy, into fresh Sphagnum and peat; shifting first Cinerarias and Calceolarias; washing Cattleyas ; washing leaves in late Vineries for spider ; watering Scarlet Runners with guano, water; cutting in Calamint and other edgings to flower-beds ; gather- ing Apricots, somo Keswick Apples in farm orchard, and a few Jargonelle Pears ; taking up Prolific Potatoes, and putting them in cellar ; gathering Lobeliaseed ; also Onions for pickling ; drying Penny Royal and Summer Savory ; putting manure into heaps preparatory to making a Mushroom bed ; digging Potato ground for Coleworts ; thinning out Beans in pots ; putting frames on Violet beds, and putting in the soil four barrows to a light soil, composed of one barrow-load of new loam, two barrow-Ioads of old loam, and one barrow-load of leaf- soil ; digging land for Turnips; earthing up Celery, not too much, afraid of grub. Miscellaneous — Cleaning out Orangery ; cleaning all the marble statuary ; cleaning glass conservatory ; cleaning walks ; raking up leaves in wood ; hoeing among crops ; finished going round all pleasure ground borders; mowing verges ; nearly finished Laurel cutting ; all Heliotropes in pots ought to be cut back about this time for winter blooming; cleaning, pruning; cutting off breastwood from Apples and Pears; cutting in Alyssums, &c., again; looking over Cattleyas for insects which disfigure leaves ; picking off tall blades from Dactjlis variegata; and thinning Turnips as far as ready. Aug. 22. — Sowing — Calceolaria seed for spring plants; a good border of Veitch's Turnips, Chervil, and Spinach. rotting— the largest seedling Cyclamens into GO-sized pots, and others into thumbs. Cuttings — Put in Cuphea, Nierembergia, and Ageratnms. riaiUing — Coleworts; Endive in front of Fig-house, and on Strawberry ground. JfisccZIajieoiis— Pntting hexagon netting on Cherry wall to keep off wasps ; pntting final stakes to tree Mignonette ; rearranging stovo plants ; shifting largest Primulas into IS.sizod pots with two-thirds leaf and eand ; fumigating Orchids for thrips; watering Celery; gathering all the Jargonelle Pears, Transparent Pippiu, and Thorle Pippin Apples ; pulling up spring-sown Onions ; giving Broccoli another earthing-up ; stopped early Vines to try to ripen them ; pnt- ting on pipe-heat and air ; weeding Stra-.vbarry plants ; puUingup ex. hansted Peas ; hoeing weeds; cleaning flower borders; hoeing land ; raking border edges whero leaves had collected ; clearing out pit ready for Cucumbers. Aug. 23. — Sowing — Fnlmers' French Beans in pots, and Bath Cos Lettuce. Cuttings — Put inof Tageteslucida, Pentas, Scutellaria; and finishing putting in Pelargoniums. Planting — Put in Nasturtiums, Cedronella, and Thyme. Miscellaneous — Netting Marie Louise Pears; shitting Stocks into 8-in. pots ; taking up to conservatory some second sown Balsams and Fuchsias, some Isolepis, and a few small Pelargo. niums; shifting Poinsettias ; washing Orchids ; giving Pelargonium cuttings a good watering ; weather very dry ; watering Peach borders inside, also oatsideVine border, and late Peas; gatheringafew Peaches, also Pines, Black Grapes and Muscats, Apricots, Violet Plums, Green Gages, Filberts, Pigs, Apples, Pears, Gooseberries, Melons ; plunging the few remaining plantswhich were forced ; earthiog-up three rows of Celery, viz., one white, two red ; covering the Spinaob-bedswith ashes; clearing out Peach and Strawberry houses; preparing pit for Primulas ; lowered stage in Epacris pit ; setting Strawberry plants in pits thinner, and taking off runners ; exposing Peaches out of doors ; picking decayed flowers off, and pinching in when required; cutting Laurels with knife ; weeding walks. Aug. 24. — Potting — Iresine Herbsti into 6. inch pots for dinner- table ; spring-struck Heliotropes into 32-sized pots ; and potted off latest Primulas. Pricking out — Wallflowers for cuttings. Cuttings — Put in a few more Mrs. Pollock Pelargoniums out-of-doors. Planting ■ — Lettuce and Endive both under walla and on open borders ; a good breadth of July-sown Lettuce; Leeks; finished laying Carnations. Miscellaneous — Tying large Cytisus standing out-of-doors; took a part of Dendrobium Devonianum out of East India. house and placed in more sunny aspect ; watering Peas, and also Vine border; gathering Peaches in orchard-house ; taking up Royal Ashleaf Potatoes ; thinning out shoots in Roso pit, pegging remainder down, and giving plants a good top-dressing and watering; budding Roses ; pulling up Broad Beans in order to sow Radishes ; earthing up latest-plauted Cauli- flowers and June-sown Cabbage ; weeding walks, and otherwise putting the place in good order. Aug. 25. — Sowing — Radishes a good sowing, and in a good aspect ; should sow again about first September. Potting — Achyranthes Verschaffelti for table decoration in winter; Poinsettias into flowering pota. Planting — -Endive; laid Chrysanthemums in small pots. Mis* cellaneous — Putting a few spriug.struck Cloth of Gold and other Pclar. goninms into 48-sized pots ; watering out-door Peach trees again, also Cauliflowers and Vegetable Marrow; taking up Lapstone Potatoes; budding Roses ; spawning first Mushroom-bed (eighteen days late), and covering with litter — produced abundance of Mushrooms September 2l8t — great quantity of Mushrooms October 2 ; giving all Celery a little earth-up, to protect from pheasants trampling about ; preparing to sow 200 pots French Beans ; dug some Potato land for Stocks j washing woodwork of Cucumber pits; cleaned tho seed from the Centranthus. Aug. 26. — Polling — Potted off young Pelargoniums, ligewise some Stocks into 6. in. and 8-in. pots. Cuttings — Put in Salvia, Tropoeolum, Crystal Palace, and Scented Verbena cuttings; putting in Artemisia cuttings. PJaiiii/ii;— Out tho Cucumbers for winter; also two houses of Cucumber, keeping them at 75° at night; planting latest sowing of Paris Cos Lettuce under Peach wall ; laying Anne Boleyn Pinks; put a freshly-imported Cattleya maxima iu a basket. Miscellaneous — Changed Lycaste shade, wind blew other to pieces ; got tree Mignonette into passage of conservatory ; washing Lycaate, &c. ; getting Cattleya-house shelves washed ; washing glass in span Cucumber pit ; watering flower garden again ; very windy day, caused immense lot of watering ; sent in some Mul. berries; taking up Milk-whito Potatoes; digging ground for autumn Lettuce ; digging Strawberry ground for Cabbage ; preparing land for Onions ; shook out more manure for Mushrooms and turned the other; put spawn to Mushroom bed, soiled and covered it with litter, and shut ventilators and doors ; began thinning out Strawberry plants in potg ; dusted lime and soot over Celery ; stripped early Vinery; took some lights off early Peach-house ; emptying rubbish- yard ; cleared up Pea rods, old hampers, &c. ; got all boxes under cover. Planting for our Heirs.— When Ulysses, after a ten years' absence, was returning from Troy, on coming home he found his aged father in the field planting trcoa. Ho asked him why, being now 80 advanced in years, bo put nimHclC to the fatigue and labour of planting, tho fruits of which ho was never likely to enjoy ? The old man, taking his son for a stranger, replied, " I plant for my sou, Ulygsos, when he comes home." A.UG. 19, 1S76.] THE GARDEN. 189 THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINBS. Iiawns, in many parts o£ the conntry, have required little mow. ing this season ; indeed, even the roots of the Grass, especially in old gardens, are killed in patches, and the effect of the burning weather upon Grass is much aggravated where it has been cut too closely j as I have before remarked, it is a great mistake to set the mowing machine so that it will cut too closely, particularly where the nature of the laud is such as to suffer much during dry seasons. Where the Grass is destroyed in this way, if sufficient rain were to fall within the next three weeks to thoroughly moisten the ground, I should recommend such places to be sown with a mixture of good lawn Grass seed, and covered with half-an.inch of finely.sifted loam, to which has been added one-eighth of powdered lime ; if the weather be such as to favour the seeds being sown within the time just named they will be early enough to vegetate, and get sufficiently established to stand the winter, by which means the bare, unsightly state of the ground through the winter and spring will be avoided. The necessity for invigorating old lawns every second year or so by applying a slight top-dressing of this kind was never more apparent than at the present season. Violas, Daisies, Arabis, Alyssums, and similar plants in the reserve garden for filling vacant flower-beds during the winter, will, if the excessively dry weather continue, require watering, or they will be in a poor condition for doing duty in their winter quarters. Small shrubs, that are used for similar purposes, will want attention in this respect. Plants that are so often moved as the above cannot get through a trying season without the nse of the watering-pot so well as others that have time to get firmer root- hold. Melons. — We seldom have seen so good a season for late Melons as this has so far been ; where they have received the needfnl atten. tiou as regards watering, thinning the shoots, and regular syringing to keep down red spider, those that were planted in frames after the bedding plants were cleared out, have done well. As soon as there is any appearance of colder weather, some fermenting material should be put round the beds ; if there be a scarcity of hot stable manure, any kind of vegetable haulm, mixed with Grass mowings, may be used. Keep the shoots well thinned out, overcrowding being one of the greatest mistakes that can be committed in Melon culture, and at no season are its consequences so injarious as in the autumn, when the sun's power is declining, Eaise the fruit well up on inverted flower-pots as it begins to ripen, 'in order that it may be fully exposed to the sun ; as it approaches maturity discontinue syringing, and be careful not to give the soil too much water; it is necessary at this time of the year to use less than earlier in the summer, or it will interfere with the flavour, and be liable to cause the fruit to crack. Cucumbers in frames should, as recommended earlier, be stopped at every joint where they show fruit, a practice which tends to prevent their getting so much crowded with superabundant shoots as they otherwise would be, but even under this treatment they will get too full of growth unless the knife is freely used from time to time in removing all that is not required. Where Cucumbers are wanted as late in the season as they can be had, and where there are no means of growing them except in ordinary garden frames, they should be assisted with manure water regularly after they have been some time in bearing, and above all continually syringed, getting to every part of the leaf surface, so as to keep them free from insects, without which all other attention will be unavailing. Where there are houses or pits in which to grow Melons and Cucumbers the above directions are equally applicable. Where Cucumbers are required for winter bearing, seeds should shortly be sown ; as one of the prin. oipal matters as regards insuring success is to get the plants large and strong enough without unduly hurrying them before the season is too far advanced, and if the object be to have them fruiting during the early months of the year, on no account allow them to bear many before the turn of the season. Where winter Cucumbers are raised from cuttings taken from plants now in bearing, these need not be pat in quite so early as seeds, as they will root very soon, and when the plants from which the cuttings are taken are perfectly free from red spider or thrips, those raised in this way are quite as good aa plants grown from seeds. Kitcben Garden. — In the south, where considerably less rain has fallen than in the more northern parts of the kingdom, the present has been a bad summer for culinary vegetables. Brussels Sprouts, early and late Broccoli, Savoys, and Kale, are little more than half the size they ought to be by this time in most places, and cannot possibly produce anything above a correspondingly meagre crop. Where, however, plants of these have been pricked out in nursery beds of prepared soil, as recommended in spring, that will have enabled them to be planted with good balls containing a mass of fibrous roots where they were to be grown in even the driest weather, provided they received a good soaking with water at the time, whereas if they have been allowed to stand crowded in the seed-bed they will have been all but useless for planting in such a season aa this. In any garden, large or small, to give a reasonable chance of success, from year to year, it is necessary to note the causes of failure, so that they may be avoided for the future. In such parts of the country that have been thus aifected by the weather I would recom- mend amateurs to plant every vacant bit of ground they have with Ooleworts. If they have not the true variety let common Cabbages be put in, which, although inferior to Coleworts for present planting, will yet afford a considerable quantity of useful small heads. To make room for these, second early Potatoes, the tops of which in many places are dead, may be taken up, as there is nothing gained by leaving them longer in the ground after they have completed their growth. Put them until the weather gets colder in the coolest place available, an open shed is as good as anywhere, provided they are so covered that light is effectually excluded from them. Endive and Iiettuce. — Ground should now be prepared for the principal crop of Endive and autumn Lettuce ; for these it ought to be well manured and in a moderately dry position; do not overcrowd the plants, especially Endive. It is no uncommon practice to plant these so close that there is not room to step between the rows to tie them up ; planted thus thickly, the hoe cannot be used amongst them to loosen the soil and keep down weeds. The rows of Endive should be 15 in. or 18 in. apart, according to the condition of the soil, giving the most room where the growth is likely to be strongest. Lettuce, espe- cially where the small Cabbage varieties, such as Tom Thumb, are planted, need not have so much room. More Endive should now be sown ; for general use the Green. curled is most esteemed ; but where the Broad-leaved Batavian is liked, a pinch of each should be put in. Do not sow the seeds too thickly ; they are little liable to the attacks of birds or insects, and usually almost every seed vegetates. Previous sowings that are already up, if too thick, should be thinned out suffi- ciently to allow them room, or they get drawn up so weakly as to ba long in getting hold when planted out. Some Lettuce — Tom Thumb, Black-seeded Bath Cos, and likewise the hardy Hammersmith— should also be now sown ; the last-named sort is not equal in quality to the Cos varieties, but in many places it will stand the winter where other kinds would fail. Leeks. — Many have deferred planting these in expectation of the ground getting sufficiently moistened by rains before moving them, but the season has now come that unless they are planted at once, there will not be time enough for them to attain any size before winter. Where the ground which they occupy is dry, give it a thorough soaking the day before they are planted ; this will enable them to be taken up without much breakage of the roots. Celery. — So long as the weather continues dry, both early and late crops must be sufficiently supplied with water, or it cannot possibly attain half the size that it should do. Earth up the earli. est planted according to the time at which it will be required for nse. The necessity for giving the soil a good soaking previous to any considerable quantity of it being drawn up to the plants cannot be too much impressed, inasmuch as neither rains nor artificial water, ings have much chance afterwards of reaching the roots, the ridge of earth naturally throwing it off. Bidge Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows must ba plentifully supplied with water, or they cannot possibly keep on bearing ; it should be given in quantity sufficient to reach as far aa the roots extend. Onions. — These are this season more than usually late, but in many cases very small and much affected with the maggot. As soon as they show signs of completing growth they should at once be pulled up, or they will commence to make fresh roots, which injures their keeping properties. They are all the better for being dried quickly ; where a moderate quantity only is grown that can be dealt with in this way the old method of spreading them thinly on a slate or tile roof has the advantage that if much wet weather should follow immediately upon their being drawn they are not so liable to root afresh as if laid on the bed to dry ; or the simple plan may be followed of tying them in bunches of eight or ten immediately they are pulled and hanging them up on the outside walls of a building that has an overhanging eave sufficient to throw off the rains ; the north side is the best for keeping them late in the spring, as there they have not the disposition to grow so early. Shallots, if not already taken np, should be at once removed to a dry place, and kept there. Box Edging that was not out in the spring should be gone over now, for if the cutting be deferred until later in the autumn it often Buffers through frost, whereas if the work be done now the danger of this is avoided. 190 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 19, 1876. Orchids. The Aerides, Vandas, and other plants in the East India-houBe will require coustant attention, in order to keep up a healthy, growing atmosphere, and at the same time maintain a pare air by means of ventilation, for the air ia o£ more importance to plants than heat. The evil of overheating Orchid-honses does not lie so much in the plants disliking the heat, aa because those who grow Orchids in a high temperature neglect the ventilation in order to keep the heat np. Growing Bast Indian Orchids will bear any reasonable amount of heat, bat they must have air and moisture in proportion, and if these be not supplied the plants soon die or settle down into a miserable state, from which they are not easily recovered. East Indian Orchids are perhaps more easily affected by these circumstances than those from other parts ; hence it is that we often see those placed in small, close houses unhealthy and stunted, while we frequently see them in the perfection of health and vigour in badly glazed bouses, and houses with ill-fitting lights, &c. ; of course, no one would recommend such structures as a rule, but the circumstances mentioned should teach ns, even if other evidence were wanting, that the plants thrive best when freely supplied with air. The Aerides of the A. Pieldingi and A. maculosum class and other Bombay varieties, although liking a tolerable supply of water at the roots when growing, succeed best when kept in a rather dry atmosphere. All the other Aerides, Vandas, &o., which are growing should be well supplied with water at the roots, and should have moisture constantly kept around them. All the Phalxnopsis are now in full growth, and these, the Sacoolabiumg, and other growing plants in baskets, must not be allowed to get dry ; on the contrary, they should be gone over every morning, and those requiring it should be thoroughly soaked, the small slugs and sails, so fond of the young leaves, being carefully looked after at the same time, or the plants will be much injured. Among recently introduced pests, the small yellow thrip is perhaps the worst to overcome ; it is, however, happily unknown in some collections, but where it does get a footing it is very trouble- some, frequently doing much damage, and greatly disfiguring the planes before it is perceived ; if properly taken in hand, however, and well followed up, it is to be got rid of. Fumigation is of little avail against this variety of thrips, for as soon as the air of the house becomes unpleasant to it through Tobacco-smoke, it descends to its usual stronghold, the very heart of the plant, where the smoke does not reach, and there remains until it has cleared away; it is best, therefore, to frequently sponge the plants with Tobacco-water made from coarse Tobacco, which will not injure the plants, and to continue sponging them with it from time to time after all signs of the thrips have disappeared, taking care to pay particular attention to the heart and middle leaves of the plant. In this way this troublesome pest is to be got rid of, and any amount of care in that direction will not be thrown away, for they soon spoil the look and value of a collection. — • James O'Buien. Hardy Fruits. It is now time that all summer pruning and stopping of shoots should be finished, as there is now no danger of the trees making safilcient wood growth, to be in any way detrimental to the formation and full development ot fruit-buds for next season. Any such work still to be done should bo completed as soon as possible, after which all the Eihoots should bo neatly laid, or tied in, and the ripening fruit be exposed to the iiilluenco of sun and air, by having the foliage drawn on one side, or, if need be, removed altogether, but this should only be done when the leaves cover up the fruit, and so hinder its colour, ing properly. Should the summer continue hot and dry, watering will be a serious item ot garden labour, as it is from this date to the end of September that fruit trees require most water. If that should be scarce, mulch deeply with litter or Grass. Gather Apricots, Peaches, and Ncct.arines a day or two before they are intended to bo used, and before the sun touches them in the morning; they will then keep for several days in a cool room, and be all the better for it ; of course they shc.nld be laid on some soft substance, such as dry Moss or wadding. Early kinds of Tears, such as Citron dos Carmes, Belle do Bruxelles, and .Jargonelle, are now sufficiently ripe to gather ; it is not well to allow them to fully ripen on the trees, as thou the flavour is not nearly so good, and the fruit soon decays. Wasps have not yet visited us, a fact doubtless attributable to the severe winter having killed them ; it will be well, however, to take precautionary measures to get rid of them should they make their appearance. Let all runners required for forcing and new plantations of Strawberries be taken off as oarly as possible, in order that the beds may be cleared of runners and bad foliage, after which slightly "point" over between the rows, and give a frash mulching of rotten manure. Water freely all newly.planted bods, to get growth completed by the end of September. A nursery bed of runners should be kept on hand to juake good any failure that may occur. — W. Wilds-xhtu, lIccVfiM. A NEW CYCLAMEN. (C, CYPRIUM.) Drawn by F. W. BURBIDGE. Altuougu there are few winter and spring flowering plants more acceptable than Cyclamens, or which better repay the little care and attention bestowed on them, they are fur from being coramoa in our gardens. Now, however, tliat a taste is springing up for them for fringing rockwork and for decorating the margins of the wild garden, we may expect fresh importations of them from the Greek Islands where they abound to be made in quantity. In collesting the tubers it is advisable to remember that drought or full exposure to the air is yery prejudicial to their after-growth ; therefore, it is necessary to pack them in moist Moss or soil so as to preserve them fresh and prevent evaporation. Imported tubers which have become thoroughly dried during transit are often four or five years before they produce leaves and flowers, while many of them never start into growth at all. Nearly all the species and varieties of Cyclamen seed freely, and the best plan is to sow the seeds as soon as they are ripe in well-drained pans of light rich earth ; after sowing cover the surface with a thin layer of living Moss. The pans should then be placed in a cool, shady pit or frame, and kept moist until the seed ger- minates, which it generally does in about a month or six weeks. As soou as the first leaf is well developed the seedlings should be pricked off into boxes, or better still, transplanted on to a bed of light rich earth made up in a two-light frame, to which an abundant supply of air can be admitted during fine weather, and where they can I'emaiu until they are strong enough for planting out in the rockwork or wild garden. Cyclamens generally like a rich soil composed of good, friable loam, well, decayed vegetable matter and cow manure reduced to the state of mould and sweetened by exposure to the atmosphere before it is used. C. hederajfolium and its numerous seedling varieties grow best inastifferloamandstronger manure than the others. If ew plants will grow and bloom more luxuriantly under the shade and drip of trees than Cyclamens if the soil be deep and rich, and they are admirably adapted for planting in warm nooks in the rock or wild garden, where they get partial shade from the mid-day sun and shelter from the effects of dry, cut- ting winds. An eastern or south-eastern aspect, screened from cutting winds, is best, affording, as it does, the requisite pro- tection from heat, but a northern position suits them nearly as well. I have a piece of rockwork facing northwards covered with the hardy kinds, and from the end of Augu.st, when they begin to bloom, up to the end of March when the leaves begin to die down, it is much admired for the bright carmine, lilac, purple, white, and magenta-coloured flowers with which it is studded, and also for the beauty of the wax-like foliage. During the dull period of winter it is in full perfection, and few plants are more ornamental. Our woodcut illustration (p. 191) shows how these pretty little plants may be tastefully used for planting in the sheltered nooks of good root-work ; it was prepared from a sketch taken in Mr. G. F. Wilson's gai'- den at AVeybridge. Strikingly beautiful, however, as Cycla- mens are when grown in the open air, I have seen them grown in pots in a cool, shady frame with great success, and plants of C. coum, C. vernale, and C. Atkinsi, thus grown, will hold their own eveu with the larger habited or more tender Persian kiuds now so extensively cultivated as winter and spring flowering pot plants for conservatory or drawing-room decora- tion. Cyclamen Cyprium. — This well-defined species, to which we have devoted a coloured illustration, has been cultivated by Mr. Atkins, of Painswick, for some years. It has rather small heart- shaped leaves of a dark green colour, marbled on the upper surface with blnish.grey, and of a deep, purple colour beneath. The princi- pal veins of the leaves terminate curiously thickened, pale green points, which give a light and graceful character to the margin of the leaf. The flowers, which are pure white tinted with soft lilac, the re- stricted mouth being spotted with carmine-purple, are well elevated above the foliage, a oharaotor which distinguishes it from most ot its allies, except C.persicum, from which its foliage serves to distinguish it at a glance. It is one of the most chaste and beautiful ot all the hardy kinds. It is a native of the Islo of Cyprus, whence Messrs. Supplement to T/ie Gardm, (Jtfice J;', So-atha7fipton Street; Covent G-srden, Loni Aug. 19, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 191 E. G. Henderson obtained it in quantity early in 1873, and from one of their plants oar fignre (which does but acant justice to the plant) was prepared. Eiound-leaved Cyclamen (C. ooam). — Thia, with the others of the same section — viz , vernum of Sweet (ooum zonale),ibericam, Atkinsi, and the numerous hybrids from it — though perfectly hardy, and frequently in bloom in the open ground before the Snowdrop, yet, to preserve the flowers from the effects of unfavourable weather, will be the better for slight protection, or a pit or frams devoted to them in which to plant them out. I grow many in this way, and during the early spring, from January to the middle of March, they are ogo sheet of bloom. When so cultivated it is best to take oat the soil, say IJ ft. to 2 ft. deep, place a layer of rough stones 9 in. to 12 in. deep at the bottom, covering them with inverted turf to keep bering that the plants are perfectly hardy, and soon injured if kept too close ; they do not like frequent removal. C. coum album is a variety raised by Mr. Atkins, of Painswick, which received a first, class certificate from the Royal Hort. Soo , 1868. It has the dark plain foliage of C. coum, with flowers white, ani dark mouth ; hardy ; same treatment as C. coum. It is a very distinct and interesting variety, well worthy of culture. C. Atkinsi, a hybrid of the coum sectiou, raised by Mr. Atkins, has larger flowers, white, with dark mouth, and nearly round or ovoid leaves, variously marked. C. vernum of Sweet is considered by many as only a variety of C. coum, and for it I would suggest the name of C. coum var. zonale (from its marked foliage). I was for a long time unwilling to give it np as a distinct species, bnt no doubt there being sufficient permanent sp?ciSc distinction to warrant its being retained as such, especially Hardy Cyclamens. the soil from washing down and injuring the drainage ; then fill up with soil composed of about one-third of good free loam, one-third of well-decayed leaf.mould, and one-third of thoroughly decomposed cow manure. Plant IJ in. to 2 in. deep, and every year, soon after the leaves die down, take off the surface as far as the tops of the tubers, and fresh surface them with the same compost, or in alternate years they may only have a dressing on the surface of well-decayed leaves or cow manure. During summer, or indeed after April, the glass is removed, and they are slightly shaded with Larch Fir boughs (out before the leaves expand) laid over them, to shelter from the extreme heat of the sun. As soon as they begin to appear in the autumn gradually take these off, and do not use the glass until severe weather sets in— at all times, both day and night, admitting air at back and front, and in fine weather draw the lights off. remem. after seeing the many forms and hues the leaves of other species of this genus assume. Though this, as well as C. coum, retains its peculiarities as to markings very correctly from seed, so do some un. doubted varieties of other species of Cyclamen. In Loddiges' " Bot. Cab." t. 108, some years previous to Sweet's publication, it is well figured as C. coum. There are specimens in various herbariums of this form under the name of C. vernum (Sweet), mostly from Iberia and Tiflis. Iberian Cyclamen (C. ibericum). — This also belongs to the coum section. I fear the original type of the species as first imported into this country is lost ; the greater portion now sold as such are hybrids of the Atkinsi group. There is some obscurity respecting the authority for this species and its native country ; but there are specimens of it in the Kew and Oxford Herbariums marked " ex 192 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 19, 1876. Iberia." Leaves very varions. Flowers : corolla rather longer than in C. conm ; mouth constricted, not toothed ; colour various, from deep red.purple to rose, lilac, and white, with intensely dark month; pro- duced more abundantly than by C. coum. European Cyclamen (C. enropaoum). — Tabor of medium size and very irregular form, sometimes roundish or depressed and knotted, at other times elongated. The rind is thin, smooth, yellowish, BODietinies " scabby." The underground stem or rhizome is often of considerable length and size, sometimes even more than a foot in length. The leaves and flowers originate from stalks or branches, which emerge from all parts of the tuber. The root fibrils spring from the lower surface of the tuber as fieely as from the upper, but are never so numerous as in C. hederaafolium ; and there are usually two or three stems springing from different parts, and growing in different directions, from which the leaves and flowers arise. When these stems are much elongated and irregular, the plant becomes the C. radice. anemone, or C. anemonoides of some old authors. The leaves in this, as well as in most of the other species, vary much in outline as well as extent of the markings on the upper surface and colour beneath. Those from the more northern habitats are coarser and more decidedly dentate than those from some localities south of the Alps, where they assume in a measure the 6ner texture, rounder form, and more delicate markings of C. persicnm. The leaves appear before and with the flowers, and remain during the greater part of the year. Flowers from June to November, or with slight protection until the end of the year. The petals rather short, stiff, and of a reddish.purple colour. The base or month of the corolla pentagonal, not dentate. Some of the southern varieties, by attention to cultiva- tion under glass, may even assume a perpetual flowering character. The varieties C. Cluei, littorale, and Peakeanum are of this section. In these varieties the flowers become much longer, of a more delicate colour, often approaching peach colour, and are almost the size of those of C. persicum ; pure white are rare, but pale ones are not un. common : they are very fragi'ant. C. europcoam thrives freely in various parts of the country in light, loamy, well-drained soil, as a choice border and rockwork plant. Where it doesnot do well in ordinary soil it should be tried in a deep bad of Iightloam,mingled with pieces of broken stone. In all cases it is best to cover the ground with Cocoa- fibre. It is a very desirable species on account of its delightful fragrance and long succession of flowers. I have often seen them luxuriate in the dibris of old walls and on the mountain side with a very sparing quantity of vegetable earth to grow in. Ivy-leaved Cyclamen (C. hederiefolium). — A native of Swit- zerland, South Europe, Italy, Greece and its isles, and the north coast of Africa. Tuber not unfrequently a foot in diameter when full- grown ; its shape somewhat spheroidal, depressed on the npper surface, rounded beneath. It is covered with a brownish, rough rind, which cracks irregularly so as to form little scales. The root fibres emerge from the whole of the npper surface of the tuber, but principally from the rim ; few or none issue from the lower surface. The leaves and flowers generally spring direct from the tuber with- out the intervention of any stem (a small stem, however, is some- times produced, especially if the tuber be planted deep) ; at first they spread horizontally, bat ultimately become erect. The leaves are variously marked, and the greater portion of them appear after the flowers, continuing in great beauty the whole winter and early spring, when they are one of the greatest ornaments of our borders and rockeries, it well grown. I have had them as much as G in. long, 6i in. in diameter, and 100 to 150 leaves springing from one tuber. They are admirably adapted for table decoration during winter. The flowers begin to appear at the end of August, continuing until October. Mouth or base of the corolla ten-toothed, pentagonal, purplish.red, frequently with a stripe of lighter colour, or white, down each segment of the corolla. There is a pure white variety, and also a white one with pink base or mouth of corolla, which repro- duce themselves tolerably true from seeds. Strong tubers will pro- duce from 200 to 300 flowers each. I have had as many as 150 from one plant blooming at the same time. The varieties from Corfu and other Greek isles are very distinct and valuable additions ; there do not appear to be sufficient permanent characters for specific distinc- tion. They generally flower later, and continue longer in bloom. Their leaves rise with or before the majority of the flowers, both being stronger and larger than the ordinary type, with moro decided difference of outline and markings on the npper surface of the leaves, the under surface being frequently of a beautiful purple. Texture thick, shining, and wax-like. Some of them are delightfully fra. grant. They are quite hardy, but are worthy of a little protection to preserve the late blooms, which often continue to spring up till the end of the year. This species is eo perfectly hardy as to make it very desirable not only for the rock but also for the open borders. It will grow in almost any soil and situation, though best (and it well deserves it) in a well-drained rich border or rookery. It does not like frequent removal. It has been naturalised successfully on the mossy floor of a thin wood, on a very sandy, poor soil, and it may be naturalised with perfect success almost everywhere in these islands. It would be peculiarly attractive when seen in a semi-wild state in pleasure grounds and by wood walks. It is very frequently sent out by English nurseries and bulb dealers as C. ouropajuoi, though per. fcctly distinct from that species. C. grsecum is a very near ally, it more than a variety ot C. hederajtolium ; it requires the same treatment. The foliage is more after the C. persicum or southern variety of C. europsoum type than most of the hederaofolinm section; the shape of the corolla and toothing of the mouth the same. C. africanum (algeriense macro- phyllum), much larger in all its branches than C. hederififoliam, otherwise very rearly allied ; is hardy in warm, sheltered situations. Spring Cyclamen (C. vernum). — Tuber round, depressed, some, what rough or russety on the cater surface; fibres rising from one point on the under side only. Under cultivation it has little or no stem, but leaves and flowers proceed direct from the npper centre of the tuber, bending under the surface ot the soil horizontally before rising to the surface, corolla long, segments somewhat twisted, mouth round not toothed, colour from a delicate Peach to deep red.purple, seldom white, deliciously fragraut; flowers from April to the end ot May. Native of South Italy, the Mediterranean, and Greek Isles, and about Capouladoux, near Montpellier. Leaves rise before the flowers in the spring ; they are generally marked more or less with white on upper surface, and often of a purplish cast beneath ; fleshy; semi-transparent whilst yonng. For many years I believed this species to vary in the outline and colouring of tho foliage less than any other, but I have now received imported tubers from Greece, with much variety in both particulars, some ot the leaves quite plain and dark green, others dashed all over with spots of white, others with an irregular circle of white varying much in outline. Among these every intermediate form occurs, up to that figured and described by Sibthorp and Sweet. The latter variety is the one more generally mot with, and is reproduced from seed very true and unvarying. This, though one ot the most interesting species and perfectly hardy, is seldom met with cultivated successfully in th« open borders or rockery ; it is very impatient of wet standing abont the tubers, and likes a light soil in a nook rather shady and well sheltered from winds, its tender, fleshy leaves being soon injured. The tubers should also be planted deep, say not leas than 2 in. to 2i in. beneath the surface. I have grown them for many years in a border and on rocks without any other protection than a few Fir boughs lightly placed over them to break the force ot the wind and afford a slight protection from the scorching sun. Some authorities give C. repandum as a distinct species, but I con. sider them identical, the only difference being in the shape and markings of the leaves, which are very variable. It is generally cultivated in England under the name of C. repandum, but most ot the best Continental botanists adopt the name vernum for it, and it is no doubt the original C. vernum of Lobel. Genista prsecox. — One of the most beautiful and in every way desirable, spring-blooming, hardy shrubs is the Broom whose name stands at the commencement ot this paragraph ; and yet how seldom is it to be met with in collections or shrubberies. Till about two years ago it was quite unknown to me, when it was strongly recommended by Mr. Parker, of Tooting, who furnished me with a plant, which has been the admiration ot every one who has seen it in the month of March, when there is so little in flower in the way of hardy shraba. The young growth ot tho previous year (which sprouts all over the bush with the greatest freedom as soon as the flowering is over) is literally covered with conspicuous Pea-shaped cream-coloured bios- Boms, giving the bush a most beautiful and ornamental appearance. It is but a shy seeder, the pods (of which very few set at all in com- parison with the sheets ot blossom produced by the plant) usually containing but one perfect grain of seed. I have, however, saved a good deal of seed this year, and shall be happy to send half-a-dozen grains (as far as my stock ot seed will allow) to any reader of TnK Garden who may see these lines and thinks it worth while to send mo a stamped envelope, addressed to themselves, to my address, I have also now in bloom the beautiful summer and autumn-flowering Genista aatnensis, or Mount Etna Broom, so seldom met with except in Botanical Garden collections, such as that at Glasnevin, where I first saw it in the form of a fine specimen between 20 ft. and 30 ft. in height, and literally covered with small, bright golden blossoms. For a long time I sought for this plant in vain in the catalogues ot our principal nurserymen, and at last found it in the well-stocked collec- tion of Messrs. Dickson & Turnbull, ot Perth; it is a quick grower, and should bo included in every collection ot ornamental hardy flowering shrubs. — W. E. Qumbleton, Belgrove, Queenstoivn, Co. Cork. Aug. 19, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 193 THE KITCHEN GARDEN. THE POTATO CROP OF 1875. (paODUCE OP SEEDLINGS AND BEST MODE OP STORING). Though somewhat late ia the year to be considering last year's crop, it may interest some of your readers to know the result from twenty-four varieties grown from seed carefully selected and cultivated in a good Potato soil— sandy loam— in East Notts. The result is shown in the following Table : — Seeds. Weight of Ctop ViEIIIIBS. Weight No. o£ Distance apt. in lbs. in lbs. Sets. Rows 1 Sets Good DISH. 1. Raceboreo 2i 48 2 ft. »in. 34} — 2. Ashleaf Kidney 63 „ ,, 44 — 3. Bresee's Kinor of the Ifarlies 3i 46 2i 10 07 — 4. Early Vermont 14 73 4 1ft. 164 ilb. 6. Early Rose 7 53 2i 70i — 6. Myatt's Ashleaf 3-i 50 ,, loYn. 43 2 7. Bresee's ProliBo 40 1ft. 61 2 8. Brailsford's Seedling ,, „ 31i Si 9. Late Rose "7 73 „ 123 1 10. Climax 3i 50 j^ 75 — H. King of Potatoes 35 ,, 36 12. Waterloo Kidney „ 63 ,, ,, 41 1 13. Harbinger 6i 69 ,, 874 — U. Peach Bloom 3S 36 J, jj 39 — 15. White Don 7 65 ,, 53 1 16. Oxfordshire Kidney 14 115 4 Urn. 130 1 17. Qaeen 7 63 2i J. 43 1 13. Model 11 80 4 „ 159 — 19. American Red Seedlin' ... 7 49 2i ,, 75 3 20. Patsrson's Victoria 14 105 ,^ 7t)4 2 21. Red Fluke 81 4' ,, 231i — 23. Wood's Scarlet Proliflo ,j 83 ,, ,, 135 — 23. Sutton's Red-skin Flourball 7 40 J, 83 — 21. Lapstone Kidney 2 13 1ft. 10 3 The only manure applied was the ash from a garden fire and a small quantity of thoroughly rotten stable manure (from hot-beds of the summer of 187-i!). It would, of course, have tended to the increase of the crop if a heavy dressing had been applied in the autumn of 1874 in preparation for the crop of 1875 ; but in the present case, from various causes, it could not be done. The same ground is never used for Potatoes two years running, but half the garden is taken one year and the other half the following year. None but whole sets were used, many years' trial having given convincing proof that — weight for weight in the seed used — cut sets have no advantage over whole sets, and that invariably the produce from cut sets is less strong in constitution than from whole sets— that is, though the produce may seem equally good to the eye, if a crop be grown the following year and disease be prevalent, the produce from the seed of the cut sets will suffer much more severely than that from the whole sets. It may seam almost needless to remark that too much attention can hardly be paid to the selection of seed, but the foregoing crop shows the advantage of such attention. Last year was in many respects very unfavourable to the Potato crop — very dry in the early part of the season, up to June 9tb, and con- tinuously wet from that time — and disease was very prevalent. In the neighbourhood in which the above crop was grown, most gardens suffered considerably — to such an extent, in fact, that in some cases there was not a sound Potato left by the end of October. The trifling extent of the disease in the fore- going crop can only be attributed to the very great care taken in selecting the seed — none but thoroughly ripened and well- sprouted tubers being used, and not one (nor the crop either) having been kept during winter in what is called a " pie." It is really wonderful how the use of the " pie " can be main- tained except under the plea of convenience, and yet there are those who still believe it is the only proper way of storing Potatoes. On asking an old gardener the other day, " "Well, have you given up putting your Potatoes into a pie yet ? " " No," he replied, " and never shall ; you can't keep them in any other way." Argument would have been quite useless ; but the " pie " has absolutely nothing to recommend it. It may be said that in the case of the farmer, at least it saves the labour of carting the Potatoes home ; but they are gathered on the land into carts, and the labour of making a properly constructed " pie " is certainly more than that of stor- ing them as they should be stored, with the carting home into the bargain. What are the first conditions for keeping Potatoes well ? Dryness and coolness ; and dryness even more than coolness. And what do you get in the "pieP " A damp- ness and warmth which it is impossible to prevent. The Potatoes soon begin to sweat, and there is very soon a moist heat which is the very thing to develop fungus growth, " pe- ronospora," or anything else ; and if there be any germs of disease in the heap, by the end of January the greater part is a wet mass of corruption ; and if there be no disease all firm- ness and flavour are destroyed long before the spring. Even for the crop of a farm, there are few places so ill provided with buildings but what fully sufficient space could be found on a granary or barn floor. A sack of Potatoes weighs 2 cwt., or ten sacks to the ton ; the diameter of the sack is about 18 in., therefore 8 ft. by 4 ft. is ample space for a ton, or if a second tier of sacks be put on the first, for two tons. A layer of straw under and a thicker layer over and round them, are all else that is required; and this should not be used until hard weather is likely to set in. But it is the storage of garden crops which wilt be of more consequence to most readers of The Gardes, and the best place for these is a cellar, if dry, and with ventilation allowing a free current of air right through, except in hard weather, when all vents must be closed. Sacks, rice bags, old boxes, hampers, barrels — any or all of these may be used to hold the Potatoes, but they should not rest on the ground. Let them be set on rough planks raised 1 ft. from the ground on tiers of bricks, and in case of severe weather covered over with matting, old carpets, or straw (the coverings to be removed when hard weather is over), and in the June following they will be firmer, sounder, and of better flavour than a Potato out of a " pie " at Christmas. The appliances described are of the simplest description, so as to be within the reach of all. They can be improved upon to any extent by those who have the means. The smaller each receptacle is the better ; half-a-dozen hampers are better than one big barrel ; the Potatoes are more under command, and being in smaller bulk, there is less heating, aud therefore less tendency to grow. Of course this applies more particularly to Potatoes for late use ; not to those used before or up to February. If no cellar be available, a coach-house is the next best place, the manner of storing being the same as in the cellar. If there be no room in the coach-house, a place may be found in the hay -loft. In this the hampers or whatever the Potatoes are put into may be set upon the floor, but coverings of some kind must be used to exclude light. Failing any of these places, an outhouse or shed will do, keeping the Potatoes off the floor, and taking care that sufficient means are used to have them safe from frost. It should have been, perhaps, before remarked that if the Potatoes are to keep well, care must be taken that they are properly dry before being stored at all. If raised in dry and tine weather, it will be sufficient to leave them, on the ground for a few hours to dry, but it is a better practice to put them into baskets as lifted and take them straight away to a paved yard or dry path, and spread them out on a mat, turning them over once or twice with the hand, and stowing them away by sundown. They can be carried on the mat to wherever they are to go. If the ground or the weather be wet when they are dug, they ought to be spread out to dry the first day the weather is fit, and on more than one day if necessary. " What a lot of trouble ! " some may say, but it is trouble that will pay better than having to sort out a lot diseased through damp, or going through that weary process two or three times in the spring of breaking off long watery shoots, the result of storing wet or keeping in a damp place, the said shoots having in addition taken away half the good of the Potato. Seed Potatoes should be treated differently, and never kept in the dark at all. Of course they must be made safe during hard frost. It is well to sort them out when the crop is dug, choosing clean, well-shaped tubers of 2 oz. or 2^ oz. in weight, as near as may be, taking care only to choose from roots perfectly free from disease. If only one tuber of the root show signs of disease, reject, as regards seed, all the rest, however good they may seem ; and it is only by thus selecting, at the time of digging, that you can make pretty sure that you are not choosing seed with the germs of future disease already there. Dry thoroughly by exposure for two or three days in the full sun, but only in the sun, that is, not left out at night. This is easily managed if light boxes, 18 in. 194 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 19, 1876. squaro and 3 in. deep, be used to keep the seed Potatoes in. These boxes hold It lbs. weight of tubers of the size above mentioned. Alter being thus dried, the seed should be kept in the boxes, crowns upwards, in a cool, dry place in full light — such a place as an airy granary or corn-chamber, or an empty room in a house — the boxes placed side by side on straw, and if hard weather come, immediately covered with a thick layer of straw, which should be removed as soon as the weather again becomes open. The result by planting time will be stiff, short, vigorous sprouts, and if the crop be not equal to expectation, the fault will not have been in the seed or in its preparation. Any number of varieties can thus be prepared and securely kept separate with the least amount of trouble, though it is surely useless to look for the best results in any- thing if the main object be to avoid trouble. Marnham. E. C. EFFECTS OF THE DEOUGHT ON VEGETABLES. Except in odd places where the soil is more than ordinarily deep and moist, this has been one of the very worst summers experienced for a considerable time for vegetables in general. The long.protraoted cold weather in spring and early summer had the effect oE causing quantities of seeds early sown to perish, or to come up so weakly as to be of little use. Peas and everything else that slugs will eat became, as they always do when not able to make progress, a prey to these pests to an extent seldom seen, and that even in well-managed gardens not often troubled with them. Many insects which in or- dinary seasons are brought to life by solar heat were this spring so much later than usual, that the birds that feed upon them were driven by starvation to attack vegetable life. Everything swarmed and continues to do so with aphides, green, grey, and black, dwaif and Runner Beans in some places being as badly affected with black fly as Cherry trees often are. Canliflovvers, Cabbages, and Broccoli for autumn, winter, and spring have been all along affected with the grey aphis, as closely packed on the leaves as they could hang. In most gardens there has been little chance of planting these vegetables under conditions that enabled them to make the desired head. way, hence they are small, weak, and so late that they cannot possibly pro. duce more than half a crop. Early Peas wore very late as well as light. The successional crops hurried in by the parching weather that ensued were over long before their usual season, and the late ones do not promise any better. Cauliflowers and Lettuce have been worse than ever I recollect seeing them. Carrots and Onions are small, and both are badly affected with grub. Altogether it has been a poor season for market growers, and the future is anything but bright. Many, too, in private places will be sorely put to their wits' end to provide for the winter. In places where water is insufficient, or an inadequate amount of labour to apply it, the land will produce very little, and that little indifferent in quality.— T. Baines. A SELECTION OP DWAKF PEAS. NoTniNo is easier on presenting a list of Peas than to take a dozen or so quite at random, arrange them in their order of ripening, and submit them as a good garden selection. Visiting the interesting old rectory garden at Woodstock a few days since, I was much struck with the admirable selection of dwarf Peas Mr. Fenn had there, and which seemed admirably to suit a small garden. Eirst, and perhaps dwarfest, was the Multum in Parvo, a first early wrinkled Marrow, as early as the best White Hound, and of quality equal to that of Vcitoh's Perfection. This grows to a height of 18 in. when supported by small sticks, and can be sown at 2 ft. apart. Immediately follow- ing came Mr. Laxton's superb dwarf Pea Unique, a variety that a recent writer on Peas evidently did not know was the dwarf William tho First; this also reaches 18 in. in height, has good full pods of deep green, and although not equal to Multum in Parvo in quality, is rather a better cropper. It is certain to become immensely popular as an early dwarf Pea. Next in succession was Dean's Dwarf Marrow, a variety that is at once dwarfor and an improvement upon Advancer. It reaches a height of 2 ft., pods most abundantly, is a wrinkled Marrow of tho best quality, and is very hardy. Allied to this and in close succession is Dean's Kobert Eenn, a remarkably fino dwarf wrinkled Marrow, having largo pods full of Peas of the finest quality. This also grows 2 ft. in height, and is a capital cropper. Next in succession was a row of Mr. Turner's fine new Marrow Dr. Maclean, a capital Pea of the Premier typo, but having larger pods. This grows about 3 ft. in height, and is a most abundant cropper. Almost ctpial in succession followed two of Mr. Laxton's fine new dwarf Peas, Supplauter and Marvel, both reaching a height of 3 ft., and producing long handsome pods in great abundance. Marvel will uo doubt soon be in great request a5 an exhibition Pea, as the pods are extra large and well filled. Last in order came that capital late Marrow, so aptly described as a dwarf Ne Plus Ultra, Laxton's Omega, a Pea that reaches 2^ f t , is of superb quality and an abundant cropper. Mr. Fenn truly said that it would have been impossible to have got from other sorts Peas in greater abundance or of better quality than these had yielded. As a special selection for very small gardens I give Unique, Robert Fenn, and Omega ; and for larger gardens a capital succession of dwarf kinds will be fonnd in Multum in Parvo, Unique, Dean's Dwarf Marrow, Dr. Maclean, Marvel, and Omega. D, Clubbing-in Broccoli and Cabbages. — I have found the fol. lowing remedy of the greatest service in cases of clnbbing.in Broccoli and other varieties of the Cabbage tribe. Make a mixture of Gis. hurst Compound and Pooley's Tobacco Powder in a pail of water, adding a little stiff loam to give the mixture some consistency and well puddle the roots with it before planting, after which give the plants another good watering, especially round the collar of the plant. Since the application of this remedy no fresh cases of clubbing have manifested themselves, while several plants which had become clubbed in the seed-bed are now healthy and vigoroas. — J. KosE, St. Oeorge's Hill, Bijjleet, Surrey. Dwarf Broad Beans. — In all vegetable gardens Beck's Dwarf Green Gem Bean should have a place. It is much superior, accord- ing to the " Gardeners' Chronicle," to the old dwarf Cluster or Fan, a white variety, and from which it sported at Shipston-on-Stour some fourteen years ago. Being of a free-branching, fan-shaped habit of growth, it requires to be sown 9 in. apart in well-manured ground ; and there it pods with great freedom. In the moist mid. land and northern districts it succeeds well, and is deservedly a great favourite. It may be said to have almost driven the old Early Ma- zagan Bean out of cultivation, and the latter is only a kind of civilised Horse Bean, used for field purposes. Sportiveness appears to be a characteristic of this type of Bean, for in addition to the white we have a green Windsor, and in addition to the white Long, pod, a green one also. The green forms are the most delicious from a culinary point of view, but fashion — or shall we say prejudice ? — encourages the oaltivation of the white rather than tho green forms. Celery Blight. — Having been for some years troubled with Celery Blight, the attacks of which are readily recognised by the leaves of the plant looking as if they had been scalded, I determined to seek a remedy wfiich should either kill or cure. I directed my kitchen gardener to fill his 3G-gallon water-barrow with sutfioienC water to dissolve two 1-lb. boxes of Gishurst Compound, mixing with it 1 lb. of Pooley's Tobacco Powder, and filling up the whole with boiling water, stirring all well together. The mixture, after being allowed to stand for some twenty-four hours, was used to water tho affected Celery plants — a watering can with a very fine rose being employed for the purpose. The plants, having been well saturated with this mixture, were then examined, and tho grubs which had burrowed in the leaves were all found to be dead. Tho crop at tho present moment looks most flourishing, the mixture having evidently acted not only as an insecticide but as a fertiliser. About three woeks after I repeated the same treatment with another crop, with precisely the same results. — J. Rose, S(. George's Hill, Dijjleet. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE KITCHEN GARDEN. Potato Blancliard.— Tho Rev. W. F. Ru.lclylTo, of Okeford Fitzpanie» writes in praise of this recently-introduced Polato ; he eays it ia a capital cropper, ox- ccllcut in flavour, and handsorae. Mr. Dancer, of Chiswiek. is also much pleased with it ; with him it is also a creat cropper and cscellent in quality. It was originalli' introduced hero from France by the Messrs. Vilmorin & Co., of Paris, who sent it to Chiawick for trial with other Potatoes. It should bo elapsed as a late second early, of robust, branehinjr habit ; its tubera are of Rood size and round, tho skin ia white, and much marked with purple. It is a very handsome and distiiiet Potato, a capital keeper, and well worthy tho atten- tion of growers for market.— D. The Trebons Onion.— This is another of tho Messrs. Vilmorin'a introduc- tions, grown durinp the past season at Chiswick. It is a Inrpo globular form of the White Spouish typo, but not quite ao precocious, and, from spring-sown Boed, scarcely ripens in ROod holding ground. Sown, however, in the autumn with tho Tripoli and all tho White Spanish forms, including tho Nunoham Park, Banbury Improved, and otl-ors, it exceeds all in size and evenness, and is now riponing off, but rather later than tho other sorts. It will keep well into tho winter, and, grown in this way, would make a formidable rival to tho spring-sown kinda. Tho present season, will make many growers olivo to the value of autumn-sown onions.— A. D, Atjg. 19, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 195 THE BUR-KEBD FOR TYING. It is a matter of surprise to me that the leaves of the Common Bur. reed (Sparganiamramosumana S. simplex) are not used for tying more than they are by English gardeners. The Sparganium ramosum is common in every marsh and ditch, and is better for the purpose than S. simplex, which is somewhatsoaroer. Nothing cin exceed the supple. ness of the leaf, T?hioh never vpounda the plants around which it is tied. la France we use immense quantities of them, esoecially as ligatures for budding and grafting, as they spare us the" trouble of untying them, the growth of the tree breaking them in the winter when they become rotten. The leaves of the Bur.reed are gathered in July and August and dried. When required for use it is only necessary to damp them. p. Jamin. [The leaves of the Reedmace (Typha latifolia) might also be used with advantage for the same purpose.] GARDEN RECEIPTS. American Blight. The American Blight (Aphis lanigera or Eriosoma Mali) 13 most destructive to Apple trees, breeds fast, and spreads with great rapidity. In the garden or orchard, where it makes Its appearance on a single tree, if left unmolested, it will soon be found m quantity on the surrounding trees, even at a con- siderable distance. It establishes itself in any crack or in- equality in the bark, and breeds in quantity, giving the trees for a portion of the year the appearance of being partially coated with cotton-wool. Like most other insects that attack the bark of plants, the injury it effects is not so soon apparent as m the case of such insects as confine their depredations almost exclusively to the leaves. It causes unsightly pro- tuberances on the bark, and ultimately reduces the trees which it attacks to a stunted, unhealthy condition. It is diffi- cult to completely eradicate it, its destruction being well-nigh impossible when it once gets established in large orchards. J he amount of labour it would require to eradicate it when it attacks large trees would preclude the possibility of attempting the experiment, but in moderate-sized gardens where the trees are small, it can be destroyed, especially if there be no delay m taking means for its destruction as soon as its presence IS discovered. BrxisUng.—'rhis has often proved a remedy if applied early. Provide a small flat brush, shaped like a diamond, and measur- ing about^ 5 in. m length by 2 in. in width ; with this brush scrub all mtected parts, and the bugs will disapoear. Unques- tionably, some which lie more immediately under the rouc^h bark may subsequently show themselves, but, if the new ene- mies be attacked as often as they display their downy bed on espaliers and dwarf standards, they will give no further trouble. A small brush, called a spoke brush, may also be used with advantage where access to the insect is difficult from the range of the branches. Gas Liquor. — Mr. Baines has used the ammoniaoal liquor from the gas-works with great success. He says : — " Some years ago Woolly Aphis made its appearance on half-a-dozen trained Apple trees at one corner of the garden. Ono of these was of au inferior kind, consequently 1 determined to experi- ment upon it. First, I procured from the gas-works some ammoniacal liquid; one-half of the tree I painted over with the liquor (full strength), the other half with it diluted with water to the extent of one-half. The application was made as soon as the leaves had fallen in autumn. The destruction of the insects was complete, as also the tree on the side dressed with the liquor in its undiluted state : the other side painted over with the liquor diluted was not injured in the least; nevertheless, I would advise any one using this remedy not to use the liquor in a stronger state than one-third to two-thirds water, for although on several subsequent occasions I used it at the strength of half water with the most effectual result, and without injury to the trees, yet I believe that the liquor obtainable in some places is much stronger than in others." Goose-grease and Sulphur. — Mix goose-greai^e and flowers of sulphur together, in the proportion of 8 oz. of the former to 2 oz. of the latter, and apply with a paint-brush. Lime. — -Take ^ peck of quicklime, ^ lb. of flowers of sulphur, and 3- lb. of lamp-black. Mix with boiling water, so as to form a thick paint ; with this, in winter, when the leaves are ofl' paint the branches, having first removed all loose bark. Re- move the soil from the bottom of the stem to the main roots, and paint the roots as far as they are exposed. The paint should be warm when used. When it has become dry, the trees should be looked over, and all cracks and holes stopped with well-worked clay. After frost, the clay stoppings should be dressed again, to close any cracks that may occur. In France, Apple trees sufEeringfrom American Blight are treated in the following manner : — The earth is removed from about the roots, on which a c[uantity of slaked lime is deposited ; after this the earth is replaced. The remedy is said to be quite successful. Oil. — In the case of trees in pots, Mr. D. S. Gillett, of the Court Gardens, Great Marlow, recommends that they should be thoroughly painted over with ordinary linseed oil, the opera- tion to be repeated if necessary. Train oil and other fresh oils have been used with success, but in applying these care should be taken not to touch the buds. Coal-tar, naphtha, paraffin oil, and petroleum, laid on with a paint-brush have been used with good effect. Paraffin oil and petroleum may be safely used upon hard wood, but not upon wood that is green and tender. Soda and Turpentine. — Dissolve 1 lb. of soda in a gallon of rain-water ; shake this up in a vessel with a pint of spirits of turpentine until they amalgamate ; add more water to make the quantity up to 10 gallons. Apply to the trees with a garden-engine or syringe having a fine rose. Soft Soap. — M. Charles Joly, the Vice-President of ths Central Horticultural Society of France, gives the following remedy for eradicating this troublesome pest : — To 7 lbs. of soft soap add 1 lb. of train oil, two or three handPuls of soot, and flowers of sulphur are to be mixed with a pailful of lime- water. When thoroughly incorporated throw in sufficient powdered clay to make the mixture of the consistency of butter. Spread a cloth beneath the ailected tree, and scrape off all the Moss and bark which seem to be attacked by the Aphis, taking care to trim the rough portions of the bark and to clear out the crevices. Remove the cloth and burn every- thing that has fallen on it, and paint the whole of the trunk of the tree and the lower branches with the soap mixture, giving an extra dose to all crevices and cracks. Autumn is the best time for the operation, as the winter rains wash the soap mix- ture off the tree down to the roots, amongst which a few of the Aphides that escaped the soap mixture may have taken refuge. It cannot be too frequently repeated that the Woolly Aphis always takes up its winter quarters round the collar of the root, a fact that is too frequently lost sight of. 196 THE GARDEN. [Auo. 19, 1876. Ants. The following methods of destroying these troublesome pests have been gathered from various sources : — Alum Water. — Take 2 lbs. of alum and dissolve it in three or four quarts of boiling ivater, letting it stand on the fire until the alum is all dissolved ; then apply it with a brush while nearly boiling hot to every joint and crevice in clospts, pantry shelves, and the like. Brush the crevices in the floor of the skirting or mop-boards if there be any suspicion that they harbour ants. Bones. — An effectual way of destroying ants in places where boiling water cannot be used is to lay half-picked bones about. These will soon be covered with ants, and can then be thrown into a vessel of boiling water, after which they should be again laid down to attract a fresh batch of victims. By persisting in the use of this trap a house will be completely cleored of ants in a short time ; the sooner, of course, in proportion to the number of bones employed. Camphor. — If the ants have formed their nest at the root of a plant, pour upon them a quart or so of warm water, in which a piece of camphor, the size of a Hazel Nut, has been steeped. This thoroughly destroys them, and is not in the least injurious to the plant. Camphor placed wherever table linen is kept is said to drive away ants most effectually. Carholic acid. — Some years ago, says a correspondent in the " Times," at my house in the country a colony of ants established themselves under the kitchen flooring. Not knowing the exact locality of the nest, I endeavoured to destroy the insects with treacle, sugar, arsenic, &c., but although I slew numbers thus the plague still increased. At last, bethinking myself that ants dislike the smell of tar, I procured some carbolic acid, and diluting it with about a dozen times its weight of water, I squirted a pint of mixture through the air-bricks under the flooring, and my enemies vanished that day never to return. It has always been successful. Carholic Soap, Brook's Liquid. — Mix a very small thumb- potful of this liquid with agallou of water, and sprinkle the ants with it. It kills them instantly ; it mixes with the water at once without any trouble. Chalk. — To prevent ants from climbing trees scrape the bark in a ring about 2 in. wide around the tree ; then take a piece of chalk and rub it on the ring all round till no green bark can be seen. The moment the ants' feet touch the chalk it offers no solid footing, and they fall back, not one being able to ascend. A chalk mark, at least half an inch in breadth, around the upper edge of sugar barrels, boxes, &c., will not admit one ant into the interior. The same mark drawn on the edges of shelves will also prevent the approach of an ant. The chalk mark must, of course, be perfectly continuous. Floiccr-pot Trap. — Suppose a colony of ants to bo commenc- ing operations on .a lawn, it is an easy matter to trap them all by placing a largo empty flower-pot, with the hole stopped, over it. The ants will build up into the pot, and in a short time it may bo lifted with a shovel and carried away and dropped into a vessel of water, ■which will make an end of them. Floivers of Sulphur. — Flowers of sulphur are very useful in checking ants where boiling water cannot bo used. Gas Tar. — When .ants make a run up the stem of a fruit tree, a line of gas tar all round will put a stop to their pro- gress, and do no harm to the tree. Guano. — It is not generallj' known that fresh Peruvian guano will drive ants from any spot, however firm a hold they may have obtained on it. Mortar. — Make a mortar bed of their nest, stirring the ants in with the mud until their nest becomes a mass of mortar, •which may then be removed. Oil of Vitriol. — Kitchens and rooms on the ground floor may be cleared of ants Ijy carefully pouring some strong oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) down each of the holes. The dose will ])rove fatal not only to the living insects, but also to all their eggs. Oslrr-hark Stcc-p.—'M. Colin Lebert, of Blois, has found that water in which the bark and parings of the Osier have been soaked, will remove ants. On one occasion, he says, perceiving a young tree which was infested with ants, I sprinkled it with Osier steep, and, to my surprise, the ants fell off as if imme- diately dead. The result so struck me that I determined to again try the effect on a nest ; this time I was sure of tho instantaneous effect, and I concluded this water was certain death to them. I have also proved that it is in no ways inju- rious to the plants ; on the contrary, when once freed from ants, they thrive with greater vigour than before. The Osier steep forms, therefore, a simple and effective means of getting rid of these little depredators. Petroleum. — Pouring a little petroleum upon their nest every few days will effectually kill or banish ants. ParaSino oil, ben- zoline, and kerosene are also very effective. Putty. — Mr. B. Whitehead, of Blackburn, strongly recom- mends putty as a cure for ants. His plan is to put five or six lumps of putty in different parts of the house, when they almost immediately become covered with these little pests. He then takes another piece of putty about the size of a teacup, in a rather soft state, and dabs it on the lumps pre- viously laid down, a jilan by which thousands may be trapped in a few minutes. Quassia. — The following mixture has been found success- ful : — Four ounces of Quassia chips, boiled for ten mir.utes in a gallon of water, dissolving in the liquid while cooling 4 oz. of soft soap. Quicklime. — Perhaps as good a way as any of exterminating a nest of ants is to dig the nest open and flood it with a kettle of boiling water. If a bushel of quicklime bo then thrown in and the earth replaced, the colony will be broken up, and the few ants left will seek other quarters. jRaju Meat. — A very effectual plan of getting rid of ants is to place raw meat in dishes or vessels of any kind about places which they infest, and, as they prefer that kind of food to any other, they surround it in thousands. Boiling water is then poured upon them, and this, if persistently applied, with the bait above recommended, will in time effect a good riddance. Soft Soap and Potash. — In the " Revue Horticole " for Sep- tember, 1870, the following method of destroying or banishing ants is described as having proved quite successful: — Take 2 oz. of soft soap, 1 lb. of potash, and about 2^ pints of water. Boil the whole together for some time, stirring the ingredients occasionally. The liquor may then be allowed to cool. With a pointed stick or dibble make holes here and there in the soil infested by the ants, at a safe distance from any plants which may be growing there, to avoid anj' chance of their roots being injured by the mixture (although this is doubtful), and fill the holes once or twice with the preparation. By this means M. de Forghet was completely successful in clearing his Melon beds of these troublesome insects. Sioect Oil. — Fill small phials two-thirds with water, and add sweet or any other oil to float on the water to within i in. of the top. Plunge these upright in the ground, leaving only i in, standing out, near the nest or runs of the ants. Tho ants will come for a sip and go home to die. No insect can exist with oil stopping up its spiracles or breathing pores. Treacled Sponge. — In houses and other places where hot water cannot be poured on tho soil without danger to tlio plants, pieces of coarse sponge dipped in diluted treacle will form a most effectual trap. The ants will crowd into tho sponges, which should bo taken up from time to time and thrown into a vessel of boiling water. Thick treacle spread on pieces of brown paper is also very effective; they get entangled in the mass when sucking it, and their bodies may be swept off the edges at different times till the nests aro much thinned of them. Fa)!'o«.t.^Turpentine, gas-water, lime-water, a decoction of Elder leaves, chloride of lime, and chlorahim, dissolved in water, soot, wood ashes, soap-suds, tar, parafiin oil, and benzo- line, have also been recommended. Water. — If the ants' nest should be in a pot amongst tho roots of a plant, the best way is to immerse the pot and plant in cold water, and let it stand for five or six hours, by which time the ants will all bo drowned and ihcir eggs destroyed. One of the most simple and effectual ways to destroy ants is to pour boiling water on the nests at night, but in those cases where boiling water cannot bo applied recourse must be had to some other remedy. Aug. 19, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 197 YeUow Prussiate of Potas/i.— Yellow prussiafce of potash (ferrocyaiiide o£ potassium), 1 draohm ; raspings of Quassia, 1 drachm ; sugar in sufficient quantity to form a syrup._ The ants are said to devour this greedily and die almost imme- diately. It must be borne in mind that in applying any of the above remedies, it may be necessary to repeat the dose several times. The ant is extremely tenacious of life, and is one of the " die-hards " of the insect ivorld. Not only this, but during the breeding season, as instinct leads it to carry off its eggs to a place of safety the moment that danger threatens, the immediate neighbourhood of the nest must therefore be looked after, as Trell as the nest itself. When the ants are caught alive they must be at once carried away to a distant spot, and either burned or drowned. Aphides. The Aphides, of which there are some fifteen reputed species, are amongst the most troublesome of the many insects that find their way to the garden. There is hardly a plant upon which they will not settle, and they multiply so fast that sometimes as many as twenty generations are produced in the course of the season, and a single female may be the ancestor of five millions in the fifth generation. The most destructive are the Green Fly (Aphis rosas), which attacks Boses and indoor plants generally ; A. pruni, a light green insect, which does much mischief to the Plum trees ; A. fabte, a black fly, which attacks the tops of Broad Beans ; and A. cerasi, the black fly, which does so much mischief to Cherry trees. In many cases, from their numbers and the wide field of their attacks, it is impossible to do anything for their destruction. Bvit on all plants grown under glass, as well as the better class of out-door fruits, it is imperative to destroy them. The means for their destruction, in many cases, must be modified according to the different description of plants they infest, as the remedy that may be safely employed in the case of one plant would be death to another, similarly applied. Fumigation with Tobacco, or the numerous preparations made from it, is the most general as well as the best method for their destruction under glass ; but, even here, there are numbers of subjects upon which they cannot be killed by this method without serious injury to the plants. This is the case with many Orchids, conse- quently, where these and similar thin-leaved plants are grown in a house that it becomes necessary to fumigate, they should be removed. And it may be remarked that the more heat, shade, and moisture that, is used in the cultivation of this class of plants, the more liable they are to suffer from the effects of fumigation. When such plants as those above indi- cated are attacked by Aphides, they should be carefully but thoroughly washed with a fine syringe every three days, for a time, using clean water. This matter, however, will be con- sidered more fully under the special heading — fumigation. Green Fly (Aphis rosaa). — There is no plant that suffers more from the ravages of Aphides than the Kose, and, where they are grown by the acre, as is the case with those in the trade, it is a diSicult matter to do anything with them, but on open exposed grounds of large extent, such as those who cultivate for sale usually have, they do not so often make their appearance as in the often confined and over-sheltered plot of the amateur. Here they are to be met with almost as certainly as the return of spring, and if they make their appearance whilst the leaves are not fully developed, and yet tender, the best means is a good syringing with Tobacco-water. Further on in the season, when the foliage becomes harder, syringing two or three times a week with clean water, or still better, the use of the garden engine will keep them clean ; the insects are not able to withstand the continuous application of water, and here it can be used with good effect to the plants in other ways besides the destruction of the insects. Dahlias, Asters, and Verbenas are all plants on which they thrive apace, and, as a general rule, the better the plant suits them the more injury they do to it. These and other plants of similar character require the same treatment as Eoses. Peaches and Nectarines are especially their favourites, and the trees are few that escape their attacks every spring, sometimes before, but often just as the trees go out of bloom. They may easily be detected by the leaves beginning to curl before they are half developed. A diligent look-out should be kept at this time, and not a day should be lost as soon as they are discovered in syringing well with Tobacco-water the parts affected. But this is not always effectual unless the trees are syringed with the Tobacco-water all over. This should be always done as soon as any insects are discovered, and one dressing of this description is sufficient, for as soon as the leaves get further developed they will stand the use of the garden engine, used with care regularly twice or thrice a week, which keeps in check those and other pests. Quassia. — Take 4 oz. of Quassia chips, and boil them ten minutes in a gallon of soft water ; strain off the chips and add 4 oz. of soft water, which should be dissolved in it as it cools. If the Eose trees are against a wall you may syringe them with this compound ; but if they are standards, you must lay the shoots against a piece of slate or wood held in the left hand, and apply the liquid to leaf and stem with a moderate-sized painter's brush. Ten minutes or a quarter of an hour after- wards give the trees a good syringing with clear water. 8oda and Aloes. — The " Eural New Tox'ker" gives the fol- lowing preparation as sure death to the Green Fly, as well as many other insects that infest house plants:— Dissolve 2 lbs. of washing soda and 1 oz. of Bitter Aloes, and when cold add one gallon of water. Dip the plants into this solution, and lay them on their sides for a short time, and the insects Tfill drop off. Syringe the plants with clean, tepid water, and return them to the house. This mixture proves to be an effectual remedy for vermin on wall trees and hard-wooded plants of robust habit, but it injures soft-wooded plants and tender newly-grown shoots of all plants, especially Vines. It will be found best in all cases to use Barbadoes Aloes, which can be had in quantities at from Is. 4d. to Is. 8d. per lb. Cape Aloes may be obtained at 8d. per lb. ; it is very inferior to the other, and no cheaper in the end. Soft Soap and Tohacco. — Dissolve 8 lbs. of the best soft soap in 12 gallons of rain water, and when cold add a gallon of strong Tobacco liquor. Szdphur and Snuff. — Mix 1 lb. of flowers of sulphur, 1 lb. of Scotch snuff, 1 lb. of quicklime, ^ lb. of lamp-black, 1 lb. of soft soap, with sufficient water to make them into the con- sistence of paint. Unnail the trees about February, before the bloom-buds begin to swell, and with a common paint-brush anoint every branch from the ground upwards. The application must be made every other, if not every year ; but once in two years may be sufficient if thoroughly well done. Tohacco. — Choose a still evening, and let the plants be quite dry. Place them close together, and in a close place thus ob- tained put either an iron pan or hard-burnt garden pot ; put in it a few red-hot cinders that do not smoke, upon which put the Tobacco or Tobacco-paper ; a cloudj of smoke will soon arise. When the frame is well filled with smoke remove the pan, but be exceedingly careful that the Tobacco does not break out into a flame. One' of the best remedies for Aphis that can be employed in a dry state is Tobacco Powder, which can be obtained at all nurseries and seed houses. The foliage should be damp when the powder is applied, and with the aid of the puff sold for the purpose, or a medium-sized dredge, the under side of the leaves, as well as the surface, must be well dusted. Soft-leaved plants, such as Calceolarias and Cinerarias, must be well syringed in about twenty-four hours after the applica- tion of the powder. A very effectual remedy in a liquid state is prepared by steeping shag Tobacco in hot water, at the rate of 4 oz. to the gallon. A little size should be added to ensure the solution adhering to the insects. Immerse the plants, if practicable, bottom upwards in the mixture, or if this cannot be done, thoroughly syringe them, but the first is the most econo- mical method of using it. Shoots of Eose and fruit trees should be dipped separately in a vessel containing the liquid. Tomato Leaves.— M.. Siroy, writing in the " Journal of the Central Horticultural Society of France," says :— " Last winter a Peach tree of mine, which had made vigorous growth, fell off, and a couple of months ago was overrun by Aphides or plant lice, and the ants which always follow in their train. Having one day pruned some Tomatoes I placed the cut portions upon the Peach tree to protect it from the heat of the sun. The following day both lice and ants vanished, except upon the rolled-up leaves where the Tomatoes could not penetrate. I unrolled these as far as possible and placed fresh Tomato 198 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 19, 1876. leaves upon them, and from that moment the Peach tree has been perfectly free from insects and grows admirably. I fol- lowed up my experience by macerating Tomato leaves in water, with which I sprinkled my climbing Nasturtiums, Orange, and Rose trees. All these plants, which were infested with insects, were freed from them in two days. I almost regretted that the clean state of my Melons did not give mo an opportunity of trying a similar experiment upon them. Here, then, is a valu- able property of the Tom.ato discovered by the merest accident, for I have never read or heard of it before. Petunia leaves are said to have a similar effect, but in the trials I have made I only achieved partial success, and iip to the present time Tobacco has been the only specific remedy. Tomato leaves are ranch more easily procured than the latter ; they are always at hand, and many are wasted in all gardens which can thus be utilised." M. Van Hulle, of Brussels, states that they grow Nasturtiums in Belgian Ajiple orchai-d.s, and allow them to climb up the trees to keep off the American Blight. Various. — Amongst miscellaneous remedies which have been tried with more or less success, may bo mentioned strong brine, Gishurst Compound, 8 oz. to the gallon of water, and spirits of turpentine. In applying the last-mentioned remedy care should be taken to prevent its touching the young leaves or shoots. The best and cheapest remedy for Aphides on Currant bushes is to cut off the curled ends of the shoots, and then wash the bushes vigorously with the garden engine. There is nothing like a stream of clean, cold water for dislodging insects and cleaning fruit trees of all kinds. If we had time to do this often enough, no insecticide would ever be required. Black Fly on Cherry trees is generally got rid of by washing or syringing the parts affected with strong Tobacco-water, or gas liquor diluted with one-third water. The ends of the shoots attacked by the pest should be well washed and rubbed with the liquor. The Black Aphis is one of the worst of the faniilj', and is much harder to kill than Green Fly. A second iind even a third application of the remedy is generally neces- sary. The amateur who does not happen to have more than a few trees will find the soapy water from the laundry not a bad substitute for the gas liquor or Tobacco-water when used in ihe same way. Chrys.inthemums — more especially such as are grown in pots — when out-of-doors in the summer, are very liable to the attacks of Aphides ; dip the points of the shoots in Tobacco-water as soon as the insects are dis- covered, and afterwards syringe every evening with clean water. There is one species of this insect that attacks the roots of Lettuce in summer, frequently destroying the crop in a few days. There is no warning until the damage is too far done to be repaired. The first evidence of their presence is given by a few plants suddenly flagging in the sun. If the roots be examined, they are generally found swarming with the insects. When such is the case, nothing can be done to save the crop. As a preventive, from the middle of June to Sep- tember, as soon as the plants get 2 in. high, give them a good dressing round the collar with soot, washing it well down to tho_ roots; this generally will be found effective. With bush fruits, cspoci.ally Currants, which often suffer severely from the ravages of these insects, where they are largely grown, the cost in Labour would be too much ; where the number of trees are small, if the insects be attacked as soon as they make I heir appearance, they may be destroyed with clean water from the garden-engine. Asphalts "Walks. The so-called asphalto used for garden walks has nothing in cimmon with true asphalte, used for the streets in London and Paris. The excellent walks in the metropolitan parks, on the Thames Embankment, in Leicester Scpmre, &o., are made by Mr. Meston in the following manner:— The foundation is made in the usual way with (j in. of brick rubbish, ballast, or rough gravel, over which ia placed a layer of the prepared rnugh material 2 in. deep, this being well consolidated by a lic'iwy roller; then a layer of the fine material, about l.i in. in thickness, is evenly spread and well rolled, applying water to the roller to prevent sticking. It should then bo sprinkled over with Derbyshire spar or fine beach shingle. Either of these improves the colour and keeps the dark compound of which the walk is made from being seen. The materials are prepared in the following manner : — A strong fire is made of coal and wood, over which is placed a layer of gravel, out of which the fine part has been roughly sifted. Then a layer of coke breeze is laid over the gravel, and when the firo has got through the gravel, another layer of gx-avel is placed over tho breeze, and so on until the quantity required has been burnt. While in a hot condition the material is passed through sieves of different sizes to get rid of the fine dust and separate the material into two sizes, coarse and fine. A flooring of planks is laid near the heap on which the sifted material is placed and mixed with coal-tar in the proportion of 36 gallons to a yai-d of material. The rough and fine are laid in separate heaf)s and used as required. I'he place intended to bo asphalted must be previously levelled, then put on it a coat of tar, and sift some road-sand or coal-ashes all over it very thickly; after this is dry repeat the operation until you have got four coats of t.ar, and as many of coal-ashes or road-sand. You will then have an excellent, clean, dry, hard path. It will make excellent walks, or floors for sheds, out-buildings, &o.,and will wear for many 3'cars. Take eighteen parts of mineral pitch, and eighteen parts of resin, put them into an iron pot, and place it over a fire, keep boiling a short time ; then add to it sixty parts of coarse sand, mix it well together, and lay it on the path to the thickness of 1 in. ; then sift a little fine gravel over it, and beat it in before the asphalte set'?. This is a more durable asphalte than tho former, though it is much more expensive and more trouble- some to form. Another good asphalte may be made with one part mineral pitch, one part resin, seven parts 'chalk, and two parts coarse sand. Boil them together, and lay it on in a hot state, adding a little gravel, as in the preceding case. Procure a quantity of road-sand, or similar powdery mate- rial, and let it be thoroughly dried, then sift out of cinder- ashes the finer parts, and let that too be made thoroughly dry. Mix these materials carefully, in the proportion of two parts of road-sand to one of cinder siftings. Next provide an iron cauldron, in which coal-tar can be made boiling hot. In a dry place, on a dry day, spread a quantity of the sand and cinder siftings on the ground, as a bi-icklayer spreads his lime, making it hollow in the middle, and into that pour the hot tar ; then incorporate the whole as in the oper.ition of making mortar, and when a still paste has thus been formed, spread it over the ground on which tho walk is to be constructed, the ground being previously levelled and beaten as firm as possible. Spread the mortar 3 in. or 1. in. in thickness, then powder ib over with dry sand, after which a few passes of the roller will press it level, and the work is finished. Take two parts of very dry lime-rubbish, and one part coal ashes, also very dry, and both sifted fine. In a dry place, on a dry day, mix them, and leave a hole in the middle of the heap, as bricklayers do when making mortar. Into this pour boilitig hot coal-tar ; mix, and when as stiff as mortar, put it !! in. thick where tho walk is to be ; tho ground should bo dr^-, and beaten smooth ; sprinkle over ib coarse sand. When cold, pass a light roller over it : in a few days tho walk will be solid and water- proof. Asphalte covortnr/, to harden. — This must be done in Rummer ; on a hot day, give a coat of coal -tar ; this will dry in a few days ; then boil tallow, pitch, and tho tar together, in the pro- portion of one part tallow, three of pitch, and four of tar. Put this on on a hot day, and, if properly done, roofs or paths will require no further caro for years. Ten feet square may be tarred with a sweeping brush in ten minutes. C. W. Qi'iN. The Colorado Potato Beetle.— You liave alluded two or throo times to this Beetle. No one who has not econ iu ravtvpos can form any idea of Ili6 fioslruftion which it commits. A grower nmy louk over his Potatoes, 8C0 a few little specks of insects in tho hearts of tho Itavoa anti take no notice of thorn ; let him (fo Rffain in yix or aevon dnya and ho will havo nothing Imt a few haro Btoms of his Totatooa loft. At* for hand-inckinjf. I commonceil picking off tho beetle oarly in tho sprinR— ono day I picked two quarts off flo equaro yHrdn. When I got throuRh my work I wont to whoro I began, and there they wore as thick as ever. The only sure remedy is Taris Green, It is easily applied, but one must bo careful in nsing it, I Pincerely hope this post may not reach England,— W. Babkham, llohokus, New Jer*eyt U.S. Aug. 19, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 199 TREES AND SHRUBS. THE SHRUBBY CINQUEFOILS (POTENTILLAS). The shrubby Cinquefoils form very neat, free-flowering, de- ciduous, dwarf, round bushes, from 2 fb. to 4 ft. high, which bloom during the summer and autumn months ; they grow ■well in any good garden soil that is rather dry, and are well suited for planting on rockwork, or in the front of shrubberies, as they never intrude on their neighbours, and retain at all times their neat, dwarf, close habit of growth. 1. The Shrubby Cinquefoil (Potentilla frnticosa, L.). — This 13 a free-growing, decidaous shrub, 4 fb. high, which produces its rather large yellow flowers from June to October. It is a native of England, Germany, and the Pyrenees in mountainona thickets. The leaves are pinnately cut and smooth above, but, when young, beset with incumbent hairs and canescent ; the lobes are oblong, lanceo- late, entire, close together, and nearly the same colour on both surfaces ; the flowers are somewhat large, sub. corymbose, ter. mioal, and yellow. It is useful for planting in the front of shrub, beries, and grows freely in any good garden soil that is rather dry. 2. The Cluster-flowered Cinquefoil (Potentilla floribundai Pursh). — This kind forms a very neat, slender, free-flowering shrubi about 2 ft. high. Native of North America, throughout Canada, from Lake Huron to the plains of the Saskatohawan and Bear Lake, in bog meadows and on the borders of lake rivers. It produces its flowers from June to October. The leaves are pinnate and pilose, with the upper ones ternate and stalkless ; the lobes or leaflets are lanceolate, narrow, quite entire, and with a slight jhoary silkiness ; the flowers are rather small, yellow, and produced abundantly in close clusters at the ends of the shoots. It is a very pretty littlff shrub, well suited for planting on rockwork. Synonyms — P. tenuiloba, and P. teunifolia. The Potentilla parvifolia, Fischer, found in Songaria, is a smaller, leaved variety of P. floribunda. 3. The Smooth Cinquefoil (Potentilla glabra, Loddiges). — This is a very pretty, small, dense shrub, about 2 ft. high. Native of Siberia, on the Dahnrian Mountains, and produces its showy white flowers from Jane to August. It is smooth in all its parts when matured, but a little downy on the young shoots, and with the lower branches horizontal and the upper ones erect ; the leaves are pinnate, with an odd one, undnlated, and deep glossy green on the upper surface ; the leaflets are in fives, oblong, quite entire, united at the base, smooth and revolute on the margins ; the flowers are white, in terminal, corymbose panicles, and rather large ; the sepals are united in one and hairy. This is a beautiful little shrub, well suited for planting on rockwork. Bynonyms — P. dahnrioa and F. frnticosa alba. Geoege Goedon. FOREST TREES AND UNDERWOOD. Mr. Beeey says (see p. 23) — "Any branches of trees that overhang roads and require foreshortening should have that operation per- formed, care being taken to leave sufficient foliage to keep the branch alive, and, if possible, sufficient to hide the mark occasioned by prun. iug ; this may generally b» effected by catting off the branch close in front of twiggy spray. Live branches should in no case be cut off close to the stem ; but on the other hand, dead branches should be neatly sawn oS close to the bole, and the wound tarred over, which will prevent Moss and Fungus growth, and in time the bark will grow over it." Now, are we to understand by this that pruning simply means " foreshortening " branches that may be in the way till such time as they become (limbs) and die, and that then they are to be neatly sawn off close to the bole ? We are told that live branches should in no case be cut off close to the stem. If this be the art of pruning forest trees, I am afraid that if adopted posterity will not reap much benefit from it. Mr. Beiry's experience is quite different from mine. I have always found that by catting the live branch off close to the stem at once, when necessary, to form a pole, and to equalise the growth of the tree, that the wound caused by pruning was overgrown with bark in a shorter time than it takes to grovv over the wound of a dead branch. Iq the case of many dead branches, instead of the bark growing over the wound the remains of the branch rot right into the trunk of the tree, leaving in its decay a hole which is constantly filled with water in wet weather, and in course of time this rots the trunk from the place affected down to the ground, and the tree becomes useless as timber. It is the regular practice in many places for the foresters to go through the young plantations at this season and prune all the trees that require it cutting lateral branches off close to the stem when necessary, and shortening others to equalise the growth. To cover the wound of a dead branch (out close to the stem) with tar, does not seem to me at all a ready mode of promoting the growth of bark over it. Cardiff Castle. A. Pbitigkew. The Ling or Heather (Calluna vulgaris) re-disGovered ia Massacnusetts. — The now well-known patch of Calluna in Tewkesbury, which was discovered by Mr. Jackson Dawson nine or ten years ago, was then the only one known in the United States, or, indeed, on the Continent. Up to this time the only contradiction to the current aphorism, " There are no Heaths in America," came from Newfoundland, where Calluna was known to occur, although few botanists had overseen specimens of it. It required some hardihood, as well as a clear conception of the causes which have ruled over the actual distribution oE our species in former times, to pronounce that this Tewkesbury patch of Heath was indigenous. The discoveries soon afterwards in Nova Scotia and Cape Breton still left a wide hiatus. This was partially bridged over by the detection, by Mr. Piokard, a Scotch gardener, of a similar very restricted station in Maine, on Cape Elizabeth, near Portland. "We have now the satis, faction of recording a second station in Massachusetts, not far from the former one. Mr. James Mitchell, of Andover, is the present discoverer, and the station is in the western part of Andover, half-a. mile north-east of Haggett'a Pond, and five miles north of the Tewkesbury station. Mr. Mitchell accidentally met with this patch last summer when berrying, and, being a Scotchman, recognised it, took home a sprig of it, and, at a subsequent visit, grubbed up one or two small plants, which a neighbour still has in cultivation. A fresh branch taken by him from the wild plants this summer is now before me. It proves to be of the green and smoothish variety of Calluna, precisely like the Tewkesbury plant. Small as the new patch is said to be, it will serve to confirm the opinion long ago expressed, for a second station greatly diminishes the very small chance of its having been casually or in any way introduced through human agency. It should also be noted that this station, as I am informed by the Rev. Mr. Wright, is near an extensive glacial maraine which traverses that district, and which he has traced for a great distance northward. — Asa. Geay. Select Lime Trees. — We observe in your " Notes of the Week,' a paragraph on the " Lime Tree in London Parks," remarking on the early fall of the leaf, and concluding with the observation that " The Lime is the least suitable of all trees for towns." We enclose leaves of a Lime which Mr. J. Barron picked up on the Continent some years ago, and which we now cultivate largely, viz., Tilia dasystyla. As yoa will observe, the leaf is a much darker and softer green than that of the common variety, and the tree posesses this valuable property, that it retains its leaves for many weeks after the other varieties of Limes are destitute of foliage. Tilia argeutea, leaves of which we also enclose, retains its foliage in good condition much longer than most other varieties. The specimens sent of Tilia platyphylla and Tilia parvifolia, the two varieties most generally planted, are quite brown and shrivelled : they were taken from trees growing side by side, with those from which the leaves of Tilia dasystyla and argeutea were plucked, the foliage on the latter being as green and fresh as if it were May instead of August. We trust in your sweeping condemnation of Lime trees, you will except these two varieties ; for with the exception of the too early shedding of the leaf, the Lime tree is one of the most suitable trees for town planting, as its habit is better than that of most other deciduous trees, and it thrives well in a smoky atmosphere, where many others merely exist, or fail altogether. The different varieties of American Lime seem to stand the drought better than the common. We send you a leaf of Tilia aoiadcaua miorophylla, which does not appear to have suffered much yet, and we have left plenty of larger leaves on the same tree. We are surprised that the finer varieties of deciduous trees are not better known and sought after than they are. We are at least a generation behind our continental neighbours in this respect. — Wit. BaeuOxV & Sox, Elvaston Nurseries, Borroioash. The Golden Poplar.— This is a beautiful yellow-foliased Poplar, which, when introduGSd amongst trees of a dark greou colour, wUl prove strikingly eEEet;tiTO. It. also contrasts well with the new purple Birch and other trees or that kind. — A Foeesieb. An Extensive Arboretum. — Mr. Meehan, editor of the " American Gar. deners' Monthly," prepared for the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia, an uncommonly complete collection of trees aad ahrubs, comprising about 750 varieties, all hardy through the larger part of the United States, and all plainly labelled. He announces by circular his intention of parting with this Arboretum at the close of the exhibition, in the hope that it may be obtained for some public institution or other extensive grounds, either in America or in Europe, where it could be set out to advantage and remain permanently undislurbcd. 200 THE GARDEN. [Auo. 19, 1876. THE FRUIT CROPS. SCOTLAND. Roxburghshire. — Floors Castle, Eelso. — Fmit on the whole is scarce here this year, and with few exceptions not at all pood. Strawberries have been an nneommonly good and heavy crop. Plums are a large crop, and likely to be very good. Apples are far below the average, and small, but the trees are healthy and promise well for another year. Apricots are an average crop on most trees, but will be small, owing to the dry weather ; with the recent rains, late kinds will swell and will be likely to be better in quality than the early Breda kind, which is very small, I don't remember a more disappointing year, as regards fruit, than this has been. Its early months wore extremely promising, but late in May and early in June, the weather was more changeable than was ever before ex. perienced, withering and blighting both leaves and fruit. The flowers set well enough, but dropped very young — Even Gooseberries which have never been a failing crop for eight years past, are nearly a complete failure this season. Morello Cherries on a north wall are an average crop, but a failure on an east aspect. The cause of this difference must doubtless be attributed to the lateness of the opening of the flowers on the north compared with those on the east wall. Pears are a medium crop, and the quality may be good after the rains which we have had. Our Pears are all on walls, and were protected with fish nets, like the Apricots and Plums. This way of protecting blossom is not excelled by any other kind of covering. — H. Knight. Dumfriesshire. — Drumlanrig, Thornhill. — Our spring here was, as far as weather was concerned, a continuation of winter np to the end of May ; consequently all hardy fruits had the worst possible chance. With the exception of Red and White Currants and Rasp, berries, which are a fair average crop, bush fruits are a poor crop. Gooseberries, Black Currants, &c., are a very light crop ; Black Currants were unusually heavy last season, and this may have some share in the deficiency this year. Apples, which were a heavy crop last year, are very light this season, but I notice that one or two trees that missed a crop last season have a fair crop this. I think we are too ready to throw all the blame on the weather, while the effects of a too heavy crop the previous year are not sufficiently taken into account. If a regular system of thinning the trnit were carried out there would be a better chance of regular crops. Plums and Pears are all but nil, but our trees are in a transition state, and this situa- tion scarcely affords a fair criterion as regards the more favoured parts of this district. This place lies in a valley surrounded by a range of high hills on all sides but the south, and is peculiarly subject to late frosts. The Apples that bear most constantly are Lord Suf- field, Stirling Castle, Blenheim Pippin, Catshead, New Hawthornden, Croftawry (a grand Apple), Altriston, King of the Pippins, and of course Keswick Codlin. So far as my observation has extended, the Apple, Plum, and Pear crops are very light all over the south-west of Scotland. — D. Thomson. Ilidlothiau. — Dalkeith Park. — The fruit crop here is fully an average one and excellent iu quality, but in the district generally it is under an average, having been much injured by cold and wet in autumn, and the severe frosts which we experienced late in the spring. On our light soil all kinds of small fruits have been very abundant, Strawberries especially being mnch better than usual, as wo had suQiciont rain to keep them growing and healthy till the crop was gathered. Garibaldi (Vicomtesse Ilericart do Thnry) is by far the best sort in this locality, but on heavy soils, larger sorts are pro. fitably grown. Pears and Apples are a good crop, and the fruit is clean, and promises to be larger and better in quality than nsnal. On walls, the best-bearing Pears are — Marie Louise, Williams' Bon Chretien, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Beurrc Diel, Benrro Ranee, Napo- leon, Brown Beurro, and Glou Morccau. On standards — Hesslo, Williams' Bon-Chretien, Beurro llardy, Flemish Beauty, Beurro Diel, Benrro Superfin, Seokle, and Beurro de Capianmont. The best bearing Apples are — Lord SuiBeld, llawthornden, Keswick Codlin, Ecklinville, Stirling Castle, Cellini, Margil, Oslin, Reinetto du Canada, Warner's King, Tower of Glamis, and Yorkshire Greening. Plums and Cherries are a fair crop in some places ; but, generally, they are thin. Morello Cherries are a fine crop. Apricots are very thin. Peaches and Nectarines on walls are almost a total failure ; the wood having ripened badly last autumn, and severe frost in the middle of April destroyed any fruit that had set, even although well protected. Since the end of May the weather has been very favour, able to the growth of fruit, and the trees have made a clean, healthy growth, which will bring the crop finely to maturity, and promises for the next year's crop. — M. Dunn, East Lothian, Tynningham, Prestonkirk, — Crops of small fruits have been heavy hereabouts. Gooseberries perhaps not so good as other fruits, except those on north borders and walls, which are extra fine. Black and Red Currants are excellent. Strawberries very large crops ; Ticomtesse Hericart de Thury, and a kind sent for " Dr. Hofrg," have done best. Apricots are moderate. Pears a fair crop. The kinds which appear most suitable for this district are — Winter Nelis, Bon Chretien, Marie Louise, Glou Morcean, Craseane, Napoleon, Bacon's Incomparable, and Beurre d'Amanlis. The fol. lowing bear well, but do not ripen : Beurre Diel, Benrro Ranee, Easter Beurro, Van Mens Leon le Clere, Triomphe de Jodoigne, and Duchesse d'Angouleme. Apples are only a moderate crop generally — Cellini, Wellington, Ecklinville, Lord SnfHeld, Reinette da Canada, and Leadington may be noted as the best for kitchen purposes ; and Ribston Pippin, Thorle Pippin, King of Pippins, Blenheim Orange, Dutch Mignonne, and Stone Pippin fur de3sert. Plums are on the whole defieient — Victoria, Black Perdrigon, White Magnum Bonnm, Green Gages, Kirke's and Jefferson being the best kinds. Cherries are mostly in an unhealthy state, Morellos succeeding best ; of these there is a fair crop. Of indoor fruit crops, Early Peaches have been fine in this locality, whilst the late crops are poor. Grapes are doing well. — R. P. Brothbrton. Kenfrewshire, — Blythswood. — Fruit crops in this neighbonr. hood are, on the whole, under the average. Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines outside are very thin. Plums, with the exception of Victoria, middling. Cherries are also thin. Pears are an average crop on standards, but thin on walls. Apples are good in some parts of this district, in others very scarce ; here Brabant Bellefleur, Lord Suffield, and Stirling Castle are the best. All small fruits with us have been plentiful, but in some cases Gooseberries and Currants are thin ; the thermometer on successive nights, when these were in full flower, fell to 5° and T below the freezing point. Raspberries are particularly fine this season. All sorts of vegetables are good, not having suffered from want of rain, which up to the end of Jnly amounted to nearly 21 in. — John Methven. Ayrshire. — Culzean, Maybole. — Frnit crops here this season are by no moans plentiful, although Currants, Strawberries, Goose- berries, and other small fruits have been about an average. Some kinds of Apples are bearing well, and the same may bo said of Plums. Pears are quite a failure, especially on walls. The following are the names of a few varieties worth noting, and which do well herenbouts : — Ot Plums the best are the Victoria, Kirke's, and Jefferson. Pears — Williams' Bon Chretien, Beurro Diel, and Ne Plus Meurig. Apples — Ecklinville, Lord Suffield, King of Pippins, Manks Codlin, Keswick Codlin, Royal Russet, and the Wormsley Pippin. The last-named variety appears to bear in abundance, even when the season ia nn. favourable for other sorts. — David Murray. Perthshire.— Tullyallan JJastle, Kincardine-on-Forth. Apricots here are a moderate crop. Plums fair. Cherries abundant and fine. Peaches and Nectarines good under glass. Apples irregular crop. Pears average. Small fruits abundant, especially Strawberries, which are very plentiful. Hazel Nuts plentiful. — Michael GinsoN. Forfarshire. — Glamis Castle. — Here and in the neighbour, hood fruit crops are scarcely up to the average. Blossoms of all kinds made a fine show, but the repeated late frosts which we had committed sad havoc. Unprotected Apricots and Peaches are almost nil. Cherries, with the exception of Morellos, are a light crop. Strawberries promised to be a heavy crop, but the hot, dry summer prevented their swelling to any great size, although here the rule is a full crop of very fine Strawberries; our principal kinds are Sir Joseph Paxton, Glengarry, Keen's Seedling, Elton Pine, Eclipse, and Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury. Apples are under average, with the exception of Lord Suffield, and nil the varieties of Codlins — King of the Pippins, Kerry Pippin, Ecklinville, Dumelow's Seedling, and Stir, ling Castle are also bearing fair crops. Pears are very scarce, our best being Louise Bonne ot Jersey, Marie Louise, Vicar of WinkQeld, and Williams' Bon Chretien. Plums, which scarcely ever fail here, are this season under average, with the exception of a few kinds, including Victoria, Prince of Wales, Jefferson, .Orleans, and Magnum Bonura, which are good. Goosoberies, Currants, and Red and White Raspberries are a fair average crop. — G. JonNSTON, IRELAND, Dublin.— Viceregal Gardens.— Fruit prospects in the early part of the season were very promising here, blossoms being strong and plentiful. In the first week of April Apricots were thickly set with fruit as large as Kidney Beans j IPeaches on walla under cover were just setting, and Pears and Plums were literally loaded with blossom. A thunder-storm, accompanied with showers of hail, nshered in the second week; and then came a series of nights of snow and Attg. 19, 1876.] THE GAEDEN. 201 frost alternately, which completely killed our Apricots, Peaches, Pears, Plnms, and Cherries. A few late blossoms which set on the Pears constitute our entire crop. Indoor Peaches are particularly good this season. Carrauts of different sorts are a heavy crop. Gooseberries a good average crop. Strawberries good, bnt somewhat affected by the drought. Apples are under an average. — G. Smith. Meath.— Headfort House, Kells.— Of Apples we have good crops ; Pears an average crop ; Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines under the average ; Plums average ; Cherries above the average, and very good j Figs, good ; Currants, small ; Strawberries abundant and good ; Raspberries small and under the average, as are also Goose- berries and Nuts. I find that President, Eclipse, and Wizard of the North are our best Strawberries this year.— J. Clews. SUgo. — Markree Castle, CoUooney. — Fruit crops, upon the whole, are not good in this district. Pears, Apricots, Cberries, and Gooseberries are almost a total failure, and Strawberries have been generally poor this year. Apples, Plums, Raspberries, Currants of all kinds are pretty good, and we have an extra good promise of Peaches. The varieties of the different fruits which do best in this neighbourhood are, amongst Apples — Cox's Orange Pippin, Golden Pippin, King of the Pippins, Keswick Codlin, Yorkshire Greening, and Northern Greening; amongst Pears — Beurre Giffiard, Beurre d'Amanlis, Williams' Bon Chretien, Glon Morceau, Zephiriu Gregoire, and Knight's Monarch ; amongst Plums — Kirke's and Victoria are two of the best ; of Peaches, Royal George and Noblesse are favourites here; amongst Cherries we consider May Duke, Kentish, and the Morello the most useful. — Frederick BonoMEE. Hunster. — Castle Martyr. — Pears, Apples, and Plums in orchards are a complete failure in this neighbourhood. I notice, however, a fair sprinkling of Damsons ; Pears on walls are only a moderate crop ; amongst those that succeed best are Marie Louise, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Glou Morceau, Autumn Bergamot, Passe Colmar, Beurre d'Aremberg, Beurre Diel, Gansel's Bergamot, Williams' Bon Chretien, Josephine de Malines, and a few others. Plums are an average crop. Peaches and Nectarines quite a failutre, except where protected with glass or canvas during the cutting winds and frost which we experienced this spring. Of bush fruit there is a very fair crop ; Red Currants and Raspberries suffered most. Straw- berries were a heavy crop, and the fruit was very fine in quality, President, Yates Seedling, Dr. Hogg, and Sir Joseph Paxton are grown here ; the two former do best. Fruit trees are now making good growths and appear to be much cleaner than I have seen them for years. I had nearly forgotten to say that there is an average crop of Morello Cherries on walls ; those on standards are a failure. — B, "WALES. Swansea. — Penllergare. — Fruit crops in this garden and neighbourhood are below the average. Of Apples we have none. Of Pears the best crops are upon pyramids, consisting of Pius IX., Bergamotte d'Bsperen, Beurre d'Hamacher, Belle de Noel, and Beurre d'Aremberg ; upon walls the only trees that have any crops upon them are Beurre d'Aremberg and Beurrd de Capiaumont ; on espaliers Louise Bonne of Jersey and Napoleon are the only trees that have any crops upon them. _ Strawberries, Currants, and Rasp- berries are average crops. Black Currants and Gooseberries far below the average. Of Peaches and Nectarines we have very few, and of Cherries none. The strong east winds and spring frosts destroyed most of the blooms. — John Nunns, AMEUIOA. Aa our markets are now largely supplied with American Apples, some information as to the crop there may not be without interest. The June report of the Department of Agriculture has the following in regard to the prospects of the fruit crop throughout the country : — The Apple crop of the New England States is generally above average. In the Middle States the bloom was abundant. The Apples are above average and Peaches below, the Peach regions of Delaware reporting a very depressed prospect. Of the South Atlantic States, Maryland promises a full crop of Apples, and at least half a crop of Peaches. In Virginia both these fruits are less prosperous. A cold spring and hard frosts following a mild winter in several counties cut down a previously fine prospect. Apples are less than an average, and Peaches one-third. South Carolina complains of extensive in- juries by frost. The frost extended to South Carolina and Georgia, though fair crops are expected on high lands. A warm winter suc- ceeded by cold in spring caused great destruction in some localities. These States promise about three-fourths of a crop of Apples, and less than half a crop of Peaches. The Gulf States are still more chary of promise as regards these two crops, but in the tropical and semi-tropical parts of Florida there is fair promise. The inland Southern States indicate about eight-tenths of an average crop of Apples, but not over one fourth of a crop of Peaches. Here untimely frosts did their work with greater effect in many sections from the warmth of the winter. The States north of the Ohio will, on the whole, probably turn out a full crop of Apples, the deficiency in Illinois and Indiana being more than made good by the large surplus in Michigan and Wisconsin. Ohio is above average. Injuries from frost seem to have been more local in their character in this region, though several counties complain of them aa severe. Michigan will have a full Peach crop, but the others not half an average. Of the States west of the Mississippi River, the northern portions promise a surplus crop of Apples, while Missouri and Kansas drop below the average. Iowa will have an unusual crop of Peaches, while Missouri and Kansas will be about half an average. Untimely frosts are noted in the southern sections, together with local hail-storms. On the Pacific coast, California promises a full crop of Apples and a surplus of Peaches ; Oregon a full crop of Apples, but not quite a full crop of Peache^^ Driving away Bullfinches. — Living, as we do in the midst of a wood, and the Hawthorn berries having been very abundant last winter, we were much concerned at the ravages made by the B uU. finches on the buds of our Gooseberry bushes and Plum trees. A copious watering with a strong solution of Gishurst Compound and a good powdering with Pooley's Tobacco Powder, with Macfarlane's Patent Glasgow Powder Distributor, before they became dry, soon put these troublesome birds to flight. At the proper season the trees were one mass of bloom, and in the case of the Gooseberries no caterpillars wore to be seen on the bushes during the whole season. — J. Rose, St. George's Hill, Byfleet, Surrey. Bose Wine. — I have been reading an interesting article in The Garden of May last on " Rose Lore," and I was about to write and tell you that you had omitted three things for which Roses are adapted, viz.. Pot pourri. Conserve of Roses, and last, but best of all. Rose wine. Of the latter, when my brother and I were youngsters, we found a few bottles in my father's cellar about the year 1836, made by the first Mrs. James Lee at the end of the last century, and which must have been at least forty years in bottle, and then it was a delicious and sound wine, with a rich Rose aroma. I have often thought of trying my hand at making a small quantity of Rose wine, and it happens that this year I have made the attempt, and, as I managed to tun twenty-eight gallons on Saturday last that had been well fermented for twenty-four days, and stopped before that perni. cious acetous fermentation had commenced, I have every reason to believe that my attempt will be a success. I put 3 lbs. of Rose leaves (mixed) and 3 lbs. of loaf sugar to one gallon of water, and mashed them well for five days, stirring daily, adding 1 lb. of cream of tartar to the fifty gallons. No fermentation in this state being apparent, I squeezed the liquor from the leaves into a cask, where it fermented for twenty-four days. On Saturday last I racked the whole into a brandy cask through an India-rubber tube acting as a syphon, one end inserted to the bottom of the full cask which was on a stand, and the other end dropped into the other cask which lay on the ground. I then added i oz. of isinglass dissolved in water, and shook the whole violently. To-day being the third day, I removed the vent peg to allaw the gas, which was very slight, to escape, showing that fermentation had not recommenced. In order to check the fermentation which had not quite ceased in the first cask, I sulphured the second cask. This is done by thrusting in two or three lighted matches which had previously been dipped in sulphur. During fermentation, in the first cask, care must be taken to completely fill up the cask daily— the bung-hole being left open for the purpose, for which an extra gallon of liquor must be made. In racking off the tube is useful, as it prevents the contact of the wine with the atmosphere, as this conduces to a renewal of fermen. tation, which it might be difficult to check a second time, especially in such a tropical summer as that through which we are passing. Although I gathered any Roses I could get, I avoided such kinds as Baroness Rothschild, which has not a particle of scent, and I fixed upon two varieties which produce the greatest amount of sub- stantial petals and the finest aroma ; these were Edward Morren and John Hopper. The petals are lifted lightly between the fingers, leaving the calyx undisturbed, when they are a day past their best. — Charles Lee, Hammersmith. South Sea Oranges.— The cnmber of Oranges brought to San Tranoisco from Tahiti Biuce January 1, 1376, is 4,173,000. 202 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 10, 1876. SCHOOL GARDENS IN AUSTRIA, The German word " Kindergarten," as well aa the method of in. etmcting quite young children associated with it, is already tolerably familiar in this country. Briefly it is an institution to assist in and complete the bringing up of children, who are yet too young (three to SIX years of age) for regular school duties. Tnie, it may include among its devices a small garden to promote observation and industry in Its infant wards ; but the school garden, as understood in Austria, IS a real garden attached to the school, and forming part of the school. An article on this subject by E. Schwab, entitled "Der gegenwart.ge Stand der Sache des Schulgartens," has recently appeared m the " Neue Freie Press," and is translated in the " Gar- doners Chronicle." In this article the writer, who it would seem is an enthusiastic promoter of this scheme for imparting practical instruction, gives U3 his ideas on the uses and scope of the school garden. This is an institution of Austrian origin, and it is rapidly extending from country to country of that large empire. Thus in a small district of Silesia 215 schools have gardens attached, thirty-six of which are worthy of notice, and of recent date. 5[any of the older ones are undergoing judicious remodelling, and six new ones are in the course of foundation. Moravia and Bohemia are active in the movement, and Galicia already possesses a considerable number in some of the provinces. In a few years the provinces of Mioleo and Jaroslav will be dotted all over with school gardens, each one including a neat little ornamental garden. In Steyermark, again, a great many have been formed, and no fewer than forty-two through the exertions of the Agricultural Society. In the capital little has yet been done in the matter, but last year the Common Council resolved that they should bo established wherever the requisite space can be obtained. Seeds are supplied from the national botanic gar- dens, and a worthy gentleman, Max Machanak, furnishes beautifully executed and suitable plans to any parish wishing to introduce the system, out of pure philanthropy. The writer deprecates the plan of making simply useful gardens, and would have them include recreation grounds as well as ornamental features. In fact, with due regard to economy, the garden should bo laid out with discernment and taste, in order to instil into the minds of the yonng scholars a sense of the beautiful. If instituted simply for the purpose of incul. eating eariy habits of industry, it would doubtless prove a failure. ^t co^jse the design and arrangements should always be made subordinate to local conditions and circumstances. Thus in a large town the requirements and the space generally available are usually widely diverse from those obtaining in a small countrv town. Again the class of school and the sex of the scholars have to be taken into account, aa well aa the resources of the establishment in question. Ihe scheme is practicable in all national schools, schools for training teachers, orphan asylums, educational institutions for deaf mutes, weak-minded persons, &c. In all cases the natural capabilities— as extent, situation, shape of the ground, and quality of the soil, must bo carefully studied. In short, no uniform plan can bo carried out, for the conditions of a fertile plain are widely diverse from those of " °'"'™i niountain valley, and the same may be said of different altitudes. But even under the most unfavourable circumstances, the indigenous vegetation of the district should be illustrated, as well as the cultivated cereals. Vetches, fodder plants, aromatic and medicinal herbs, vegetables and herbs employed in cookery, and fruit of all u I j J'^" P°'''°°°"s plants, particulariy of the neighbourhood, should bo cultivated in order to make them familiar to the scholars, and any plants peculiar to the region, such as Alpine plants in the Alps, and so on. Ornamental shrubs and herbaceous plants also deserve attention where there is room for them, and in larger gardens representatives of the native forest trees should be placed for shade on the play.ground and gymnasium. IVhero there is water, if only an ordinary spring, the school garden may be made a place o't charming beauty ; and thus formed, according to the space at com. mand, it offers children the facilities for observation, and is a rich Ronrce of pure delight. Moreover, the knowledge gained by children in this practical manner— and in a well-conducted garden it is varied and valuable— is permanent ; they may forget what they leam, but nOt what they experience. This, and much more, the writer says in favour of the school garden. One of the principal advantages of this system, besides affording pure and healthy occupation and pleasure, is, that under proper tuition, it induces habits of observa. tion and independent thought. Again, in towns it keeps children both from the evil influences of the streets, or those moro inclined for study from shutting themselves up too closely instead of taking hcalihy exercise. Qualified teachers speak very highly of the aid afforded in general education by the school garden, as well as of its elevating influences on the minds of the children. But it should bo remembered that the school garden is not an entirely new idea. For more than a huiulrcd years energetic schoolmasters have been trying to cairy out the idea, but, aimple aa it is, they have not got beyond theory, having stuck fast in their search for a model which should bo of universal application. In 1871 Sweden, with its 7528 free sohoola or national schools, possessed 2000 school gardens ; but these were all in country places, and only kept up for certain practical purposes. At the Universal Exhibition of Vienna, Austria gave her contempo. raries an example of a moderately large country school garden, acta, ally laid out and planted, showing how easily, and at a proportionately small cost, a school garden may be carried out. Where a garden ia absolutely impossible, as in some towns, growing plants in pots in the yards and windows ia recommended. CONSERVATORIES AND THEIR CONTENTS. The heat that has prevailed of late haa necessitated an increased quantity of air being given to keep down the temperature of these structures to as low a limit as possible, and the effect of this is that the borders in which creepers and other plants are growing have been robbed of their moisture. This may not be apparent if only an examination of the surface be made, as that frequently misleads from the constant damping which it undergoes in order to keep the air of the house sufficiently humid. It should be borne in mind that the demand made on the roots of plants at such a time is at least twice aa great as it is when the weather is still and cool, or the sky dull and overcast. With the air in constant motion, as it necessarily is when all the means of ventilation possible have to be made use of, evapora. tion goes on at an extremely rapid rate through the pores of the leaves, and the whole of this, as a matter of course, is taken out of the borders, but much deeper than can again be made good by mere surface.waterings ; they should have a thorough soaking by going over them two or three times, leaving an interval of a day or so between each application, by which means the dry soil beneath will have time to swell and fill up the interstices, thus intercepting the water in its rapid passage through to the drainage without wetting the whole an occurrence that frequently takes place when borders get into a dry, shrunken state. Among choice climbers Lapagerias both red and white, are fast coming into bloom, and will be most attractive for some two or three months to come. They debght in havine plenty of moisture at the roots and a rough porous peatv soil to grow in. With this resting on a welUdrained bottom water may now be given them at least once a week till they have completed their growth and ceased flowering when leas frequent applications will suffice. Where an increase of stock ia desired, layering is the most expeditious way of obtaining it an operation that may be carried out as successfully now as at any other season. Select a strong healthy shoot for this purpose, and remove the soil to a depth of 3 in. or i in., so aa to form achannel in which to lay and peg down the branch, after which just bury it with sand and then cover up with rough lumps of peat and loam. If this be kent constantly moist, roots will be emitted within a year or so when the layer may be severed and removed. Passifloras, Cobras Taosonias and other quick.growing climbers of a similar character should be kept regulariy thinned out, so as to admit plenty of li-^ht and air to the plants beneath them. Most of tho Tacsoniaa aro snbiect to vrhite scale, which, if not kept down now, will soon spread over the loaves and entail much future labour in clearing tho plants from it It farst makes its appearance on the main sterna and branches from which it IS easily dislodged by using any of the insecticides 'which should bo put on with a tolerably stiff brush. The utmost watchful ness must now be exercised in regard to Camellias, in order to sea that they do not at any time suffer from want of water at tho root aa when that happens the buds receive auoh a check as to cause them t fall off in the autumn jnst at the time when they should begin thei' final swelling. Weak liquid manure may now bo given occMionally especially to such aa are confined to small pots, or have but a limited quantity of soil in which to grow. Clarified soot-water is perhaos the safest and best of all stimulants for Camellias; it impa ts'arioh dark hue to their foliage. Those that make a satisfactory growth invariably show more flower.buds than they are capable of carry, ing and these should therefore now bo thinned out. leavimr such as arc largest and best separated. As a Aile on! plants are m tho extent of feeding ground allotted to them, and other circumstances of a similar character. Choice stove plants that have been made use of to render conscrvatoriea gay, shoild not be allowed to remain out of heat too long, or to stand in a draught, as when that la the case they are sure to suffer injury, although thev may not ahow it at once. Allamandaa, Stephanotis, Clerodendron Balfourianum, Bougainvilleaa, and Dracujnas may bo allowed to remain for some time to come, as a oonaervatory temperature iuat suits them at this season, and enables them to remain in bloom maoh longer than they would do in tho close, moist heat of a stove - Aug. 19, 1876,] THE GARDEN. 203 NEW PLANTS, &c. Bongardia Rauwolfi. — This is a very distinct, herbacsoug berberidaceous plant from Western Asia ; it has large, tuberous, underground stems, pinnate leaves, and nodding scapes of yellow Buttercup-like flowers. The leaves are about 6 in. in height, the pinnco being three or four ranked, each having a large crimson blotch at its base. Its range of geographical distribation is from the islands of the Greek Archipelago (Chios and Rhodes), through Asia Minor, Syria, and Persia, to Affghanistan and Baluchistan. In Syria and Persia it is found in the corn-fields, and is used as an acid pot-herb. It is quite hardy, Mr. N. G. Elwes having flowered it in an open border, and it is sufficiently ornamental to deserve culture. — "Botanical Magazine," t. 6244. Duvalia polita. — A South African succulent plant, better known in gardens under the generic name of Stapelia. It has branching, si.'c-angled stems, which rarely exceed 6 in. in height, and bears glossy brown flowers about 1 in. in diameter. The polished lobes of the fleshy corolla are less replicate than those of any other species in the sub.genus Duvalia, and have tufts of club-shaped hairs in their angles. It well deserves culture as a cariosity. — " JJotanical Magazine," t. 6245. EuIopMa macrostachya. — A slender-habited Orchid from Ceylon, where it is found at an elevation of from 2000 ft. to 4000 ft., and, according to Wight, it is also found on the eastern slopes of the Neilgherry Mountains. It was introduced to this country in 1837, from Peradenia, to the gardens of the Royal Horticultural Society, and it flowers ever year in the Orchid-houses at Kew. The pseudo- bulbs are slender, spindle-shaped, and bear two or three lance-shaped leaves ; the flowers are produced on an erect spike about 2 ft. in height ; the sepals and petals are lance-shaped, about half-an-inch in length, and of a pale green colour, the lip being much larger in pro. portion and somewhat saddle-shaped, with a gibbons spur behind ; the colour is yellow with crimson streaks. It is a plant of easy culture, but not showy. — " Botanical Magazine," t. 6246. Leuoothoe Davisise. — A very pretty Califomian evergreen Bhrub, from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, where it was discovered by Mr. W. Lobb at an elevation of 500) ft. It was by him trans. mitted to Messrs. Veiteh, who distributed it under the name of Leucothoe Lobbi. It is the only species of the genus which has been found on the western side of the American Continent. The fresh, green growths are each terminated by clusters of white, bell-shaped, Andromeda or Arbutus.like flowers. It is quite hardy, and deserves culture. " Botanical Magazine," t. 6247. Agave Botterii. — A Mexican species introduced by Mr. Wilson Saunders through M. Botteri, after whom it has been named. The plant is now in Mr. Peacock's collection at Sudbury House, Hammer. Bmith, where it bloomed in the spring of 1875. It is of dense habit, Bome forty or fifty dark green, lauce.sbaped, fleshy leaves, being arranged in a sessile rosette, the individual leaves being about 2 ft. in length, by 6 in. to 8 in. in breadth, the margins being armed with close-set, hooked spines. The flowers are borne on a simple spike from 6 ft. to 8 ft. in height, and are of a yellow colour, each seg. ment being tipped with red. The lower part of the spike below the flowers is covered by imbricating, sharp-pointed bracts. It well de- serves a place in all collections of succulent plants, but is very rare. — " Botanical Magazine," t. 6248. Gamolepis euryopoides. — A pretty composite plant from Caffraria and Albany, where it is found at an elevation of 200 ft. It attains a height of about 1 ft., the slender, branching stems being rather densely clothed with temate leaves, and terminated by bright yellow and rayed flowers IJ in. in diameter. The plant belongs to a little known genus of Cape Composites, some of which mimic Mosses and Lycopods in their habit of growth. It grows well in a cool house on a shelf near the glass, and is worth culture. — " Botanical Maga. zine," t. 6249. Odontoglossum oirrhosum. — A very handsome species from the western slopes of the New Granadian Andes, where it was discovered many years ago by Colonel Hall, who sent dried specimens to Sir Wm. Hooker. It is found at an altitude of from 5000 ft. to 6000 ft., and the credit of again finding and introducing living plants of this plant belongs to the brothers Rhaboch, who sought it under the direction of their nncle, the veteran traveller and collector, Roezl. It may be considered as a larger and richer coloured 0. noevium magus, which it resembles in habit of growth. The flowers are 4 in. in length by about 3 in. broad, the pure white sepals, petals, and lip being narrowed out into slender, undulating tails, and are heavily blotched with chocolate purple. — " Floral Magazine," t. 222. Koot Hairs.— That the largest portion of the liquid used by the growing plant makes its entrance through the roots, from the soil, is a well-established fact ; but those parts which are the most active in the absorption of this food material in solution were for a long time not so clearly understood. By careful expeiiments and microsoopio investigation it is found that the extreme tips of young roots are about the only portion which take little or no part in this work. A short distance back from the growing points, on nearly all growing roots, may be seen with the aid of a microscope a large number of minute, slender bodies extending out in all directions from the surface of the root. These thread-like structures are not inaptly called root hairs, and consist of sac-like protuberances, as outgrowths from the epidermis or surface cells of the root. With the naked eye they are not easily seen, but their presence may be interred from the manner in which they cling to the particles of the soil when a young root is lifted carefully from the earth in which it was growing. This power which they have of fixing themselves to the grains of earth is very great; so that when a plant is taken violently from the soil, largo portions of these delicate hairs are broken, from the roots and retain their attachment to the soil. As the root grows along in the earth new hairs are produced, while those behind perish as the root becomes woody, and a dense, non-absorbing, protecting epidermis is formed ; so that the active life of a single hair is of short duration. The office of these hairs must have already suggested itself to the reader. By means of these prolongations the greater part of the absorption takes place, though the newly .formed surface cells are also active. — B. G. Halstead, in " Gardeners' Monthly." POLLEN TUBES FOR THE MICROSCOPE. I LATELY came across a passage in a popular work on Microscopy reoom- mending the student who wishes to examine the pollen tubes of flowers to dissect a fertilizing stigma. Remembering my own eirly experience in this branch of microscopic preparation, my repeated disappointments after wasting my time in the most tedious manifestation, besides having seen the preparations of others who followed this method of procedure always end in failure, I am induced, more especially at this season of the year, when the opportunities of studying the pollen of plants are so many, to offer a few hints on a new method of observing these beautiful objects. Most persons must have noticed that when the stigmas of Lilium and other flowers have arrived at the period of fertilisation, a drop of nectar makes its appearance at their top. This nectar is the one thing necessary for exhibiting the growth of the pollen tubes. We will take for example the Lilium speciosum or L. auratum, as they usually produce the most nectar. If a plant or two coming into flower be put into the greenhouse instead of leaving them outside where the flies will help themselves to the nectar, we shall find that in a few days several stigmas will he ready with the drops pendent. Take an ordinary micro- scope slide and place the centre of it against the most liquid drop, which will remain on the glass ; if not sufficient, another drop should be added from another pistil. Then touch the point of one of the mature anthers with the drop of nectar very gently so as to leave not more than about a dozen pollen grains on it, and it is ready for examination without even the usual covering of thin glass. If the object be examined directly with a ciuarter-inch object glass, or even a lower power, nothing will be seen but the pollen-grains, but in about half-an-hour a projection like a fleshy root will be seen at the end of each grain, and will continue to grow for from one to two hours, at the end of which time the pollen-grains and tubes will resemble in appearance very long snakes, the grain representing the head. The sap may also be seen running down one side of the tube, turning at the point, and returning on the other side. When prepared in this manner the object is perfect, and being free from foreign matter is clear and beautiful. In preparing the objects care should be taken not to place them in too warm or too dry a place, as the continuous growth of the pollen-tubes entirely depends on the length of time that the nectar remains in a sufficiently fluid state. The studentmust not be discouraged if he fails a few times, as he will be amply rewarded when he secures a good specimen, which may he made a permanent one without any further trouble than that of placing a piece of thin microscopic glass over it while the nectar is in a fluid state, and carefully pressing it down to eject the air bubbles. The nectar will soon harden, and the pollen-tubes be preserved inaperfectlytransparent vehicle: prepared in this manner, I have a perfect specimen a year old. We may take it for granted that any flower which produces nectar in sufficient quantity wUl produce the tubes in the manner described ; hut 1 have been more successful with bulbous plants than any others, having obtained some beautiful objects from diEEerent varieties of Hymenocailis (Pancratium), Crinum, &e. The foregoing is a simple and successful means of accomplishing a delicate operation, which most botanical students, who in these days are invariably workers with the microscope, will be glad to know. James O'Beien. Strawberry Eunnera for forcing.— Pieces of turf 2 in. thick, and of such a size as to admit of their being conveniently put into fruiting pots, if sunk in the ground just deep enough to allow them to be covered, and the runners firmly pegged in the centre, will be found an expeditious mode of obtaining fine, healthy plants for forcing. If the turf be dry, it should be soaked in a tub before it is used. — S, 204 THE GARDEN. [Atjg. 19, 1876. SOCIETIES AND EXHIBITIONS. EOTAL HOETICULTURAL SOCIETY. August 16ih. Tnis was a better meeting, all things considered, than one might have expected ; indeed, these fortnightly gatherings seem to be more popular than the Society's larger exhibitions. Some well-grown Victoria Nectarines came from Mr. Tillery, of Welbeck, and an interesting collec- tion of Russian and other early Apples came from the Society's garden at Cbiswick. Messrs. Veitoh & Sous sent a richly-tintod fonn of the Australian Dendrobium bigibbum, to which a certificate was awarded. Messrs.^ Kelway & Sons contributed a bright and effective stand of Gladioli, and Sir. C. Turner one of seedling and other Dahlias. Firat-elass Certificates. — These were awarded to the following new and rare plants : — Oladiolus, Dr. Hogg (Kelway & Son).— A distinct variety, the flowers of which are well ari-anged on a stout spike. They are white in colour sufFased with rosy-lilac, the three outer perianth segments being pencilled with rosy-crimson. Gladiolus, Rev. M. J. Berkeley (Kelway & Son).— Flowers arranged closely on a stout spike, and excellent in shape and substance, the segments being very smooth. In colour they are a soft vermilion, inclining to salmon, the outer petals being flaked with scarlet. It is a kind well worth culture in every collection. Gladiolus, Lady Aberdare (Kelway & Son).— The spike of this variety, as shown, is rather rough and straggling, and the flowers are not BO smooth and shapely as one might expect thom to be in a variety, to which a certificate has been awarded. They are white in colour, the lower segments being boldly streaked with purple, and the margins of the upper segments delicately pencilled with rose. The colours, which are distinct, form its only recommendation. Lobelia, St. Martin's Blue (D. Ross).— This is one of the most floriferous of all dark bluo Lobelias, the plants shown being literally masses of white-eyed, deep indigo bluo flowers, and even the foliage and fiowor-stems are deeply stained with the same colour. It forms dense tufts about i in. in height, which contrast well with Golden Pyrethrum or other bedding plants of a hght colour. Hybrid Begonia. Otto I'orster (Frmbel & Co.).— This is said to be a hybrid between B. imperialis and B. Rex. It is of dwarf habit, having obliquely cordate, asperous leaves of a dark green colour, marbled with silvery greyish-green. The flowers are very inconspicuous, being of a greenish-white colour, and borne on short stalks down among the leaves, in which its beauty wholly consists. Hybrid Begonia, Miranda (Prcobel & Co.).— Similar in habit to the last, the under surfaces of the leaves having the same curiously- punctured appearance. Their asperous, upper surface is dark green, marbled with silvery-grey. The flowers are greenish-white, like those of the bst-named variety. This is said to bo a hybrid between B. smaragdina and B. rex. Dahlia, Canary (C. Turner).— This is a finely-formed flower, with a good full centre and very smooth, even pips. Its colour is a clear canary-yellow, very bright and distinct. Dahlia, Drake Levels (C. Turner). — A very fine flower, round and full, with a good bold centre. Colour bright maroon- scarlet, the edges of the pips Hushing with scarlet when seen in a bright light. A noble flower for purposes of exhibition. Retinospora tetragona aurea (Barron & Sons).— A dwarf, dense-growing Conifer, of pyramidal habit, each tassel-like tuft of foliage being tipped witli gold. It well deserves a place in a sheltered position, being one of the most elegant and desirable of all the golden variegated species. Dendrobium bigibbum Buperbum (Veitoh & Sons).— An Australian Orchid, hitherto very rare in our gardens. The variety now shown differs from the typo in being larger, but especially in the flowers being richer in colour (a distinct lilac-purple), and in the petals being broader than the sepals and Phalnonopsis-liko iu sliape. The sepals, which .are lance-shaped acute, are distinctly tipped with white ; the base of the lip is of a vivid purple tint, and the central lobe or blade is bright lilac pencilled with dark purple j the disc has a papillose central ridge. Potato, Schoolmaster (C. Turner).— This is a handsome, pebble- shaped Potato, with a rough, crackling skin and very shallow eyes. It has been cooked at Chiswick, and found to be excellent in flavour. To the following vegetables tried in the Society's Gardens at Chiswick first-class certilicates have been awarded, viz. :— Onion, Queen (sent by several seedsmen). Onion, Trebons (also furnished by several seed firms). Kidney Bean, Minier's First Early (Minier & Cp). Kidney Bean, Kachel (Nutting & Co.). Kidney Bean, Haricot Nain Blanc Quarantain (Yilmorin & Cie.). Miscellaneous Plants.- Mr. Laing, of the Stanstead Park Xur. sery. Forest Hill, again showed his hybrid Fuchsia, now named Lord BeaconsCeld. Messrs. Ban'on & Sons, of the Elvaston Nurseries, Borrowash, sent variegated plants of Lawsoa's Cypress and Retinospora tetragona aurea, to which allusion has already been made. Mr. B. Reeves, of North End Lodge, Walham Green, furnished a fine specimen of Crinuni giganteum in flower. Its leaves, which are broadly strap- shaped, are bright green in colour, and the flowers, which are large, nodding, and Lily-like, are borne on stout scapes a yard high. A small collection of hybrid Begonias came from Messrs. Fro.'bel & Co., of Zurich, to two of the best of which certifi- cates were awarded. Mr. Roberts, gardener to W. Terry, Esq., o£ Peterborough House, Fulhara, sent two well-grown specimens of the old Gloriosa superba, each of which was profusely covered with red and yellow friU-like flowers. A fasciated stem of Lilium auratum came from Mr. C. Turner ; and Mr. Quilter, of the Lower Grounds, Aston, near Bir- mingham, showed two new Lobehas, namely. Gem, a very dwarf Ulac-pnrplc variety, with a white eye ; and White Beauty, also a dwarf kind, forming tufts about C in. in diameter, and bearing a profusion of pure white flowers. Mr. Green, of Helmsdale Road, Keigate, sent cut flowers of Stoboea purpurea, a Cape Composite, bearing single Chrysan- themum-like flowers on a dccurrent Thistle-like stem. It is perfectly hardy, and grows from 18 in. to 2 ft. in height. Fruit. — A collection of early Apples came from the Society's Gardens at Chiswick, the varieties being Early Red Flat, Duchess of Oldenburg, and American Crab, a carious, oblong, brown fruit with a prominent closed eye. The specimens shown were quite ripe and fairly well flavoured, the flesh being of a distinct, yellow colour. In addition to these there were two or three Russian varieties. Mr. Luckhnrst. gardener to A. Nesbitt, Esq., Oldlands Hall, Uckfield, sent fruit of the fine, long- clustered Red Currant alluded to in our last report. It is named Victoria Currant, a large and very fine fruit. From the same exhibitor came two bunches of Ferdinand de Lesseps, one of the finest-flavoured of all Grapes. Mr. Jackson, Casewick, Stamford, sent a seedling green-flesh Melon of excellent flavour. A very good fruit of Cox's Golden Gem came from Mr. J. Perkins, Thornham Hall, SuSblk. Six or eight other Melons were staged, but none were of more than average merit. Mr, Luckhurst sent a dish of Early Rivers Peach, and Mr. Tillery, of Wel- beck, highly-coloured fruit of Victoria Nectarines, very fine examples, and also of Barrington Peaches, the latter not having borne carriage well. A dish of highly-coloured Royal George Peaches came from Mr. W. Flint, gardener to C. Lee, Esq., Loam Pit Hill House, Lewisham, and from the same exhibitor came a good dish of Elrnge Nectarines. Mr. Jas. Hussey, gardener to D. Pearce, Esq., Northend House, Hammer- smith, sent four brace of Telegraph Cucumbers. Mr. Parsons, of Danes- bury, Welwyn, Herts, showed twelve fine Magnum Bonum Onions, which appears to be a good selection of the Brown Spanish. Preston Flower Show.— At this show, held the other day, the centre of attraction was the Ladies' Plato competition for six stove and greenhouse plants, grown from plants in G-in. pots, in two years. Tho first prize, .^25 and a gold medal value £12 12s., was won by Mr. F. M. Shuttleworth, who had, among others, splendid plants of Bougainvillea glabra, AUamanda nobilis, and Statice profusa. Ixora coccinea, with fifty-seven trusses on it, was awarded a silver medal as the best plant in the Ladies' Competition class. — James Siiiiu, Waterdale, NOTES AND QUESTIONS-VARIOUS. Agaves in Bloom at tlie Alexandra Palace. — Ponnifc me to direct attention to tho fact that in my Alexaudra Pulaco coUoction of eaocalenta there are at present three rare Agaves in bloom, viz., A. laxa, A. liesBOrriaaft, and A, bromelia;£olia.— J. T. Veacocic. Potato Crops in Ireland-— Thronghout Moath tho cry is small Potatoes, owing- to tho dry ivealher ; Vcitch's Ashleftf is, however, very ffood ; Kftrly Rose, half tho eize and half tho I((uantity ; Climax, the same. Scotch Dons are tho principal Potatoes thrown by tho fanners ; every ono ia COmplainiog of their smalluess, but they aro all sound as yet. — J. Clbws. Different Kinds of Peaches and Nectarines in one Honse.— Wo havo for six weeks past boon picking Peaches out of one hoa;e. Wo began with Early Ueatricc, which was succeeded by Karly Kivers, Royal Gcorgo, and Klrugo Nectarines, and just now (Auffust 12) wo have still a fortnight supply left. Peaches and Nectarines do well in cold houses hero, being of fine colour, delicious in tlavour, and abundant. Tho trees in the house in tiuestion " broko '* without firing, and we only gave them a littlo artificial heat when setting. Wo steer a medium course betwcou tho two extremes, wet and dry, morely dewing them over when thoy aro in flower.— R, Gildbbt, Burghley. Improved Pentstemons.— Florists seem to bo making oCTorts to improro tho (|uality of the blossoms of these fine old-fashioned summer-floworing plants. Mr. Ware lia.s several beds of sccdlinga of thom at Tottenham, tho flowers on many of which are almost as large as thoso of a Glox.inia, and beautiCally varied iu colour.— S. Snccnlonts. — Many of your readers in town and country who take an intoroKt in thoeo would probably like to look through my collection. Allow me» therefore, to inform you Ihat Mr. Crouchcr will attend each Tuesday, from 10 to \ o'clock, at my residence, Sudbury House, Hammersmith, during August and September, and will have much pleasure in giving any information relative to their history and habits thai may bo required.— Jonzr T. PbacocKi Stulburg Mou9Ct Hummer tmitht THE GARDEN. 205 SATUSDAT, ATJaTTST 36, 1878. " TliiB is an art Which do?8 mend Nature : change it rather i but Tkb AiT ITSSir 18 NiiEiKB.'* — Shakespeare. OKCHIDS FOE CUT FLOWERS. TuE great and increasing demand for cut flowers of all kinds renders it necessary for those who wish to keep up a good supply to cultivate some of the showiest and most free-flower- ing Orchids for that purpose. Owing to the flowers of Orchids having persistent sepals and petals, being, in fact, all in one piece, they travel well, and last almost as long in the shape of cut flowers in a dwelling-house as they would if left on the plants. Indeed, the length of time which they last when cut is in many cases quite surprising; flowers of the beautiful snow- white Dendrobium infundibulum and of D. Jamesianum have been known to last three weeks in perfection, and afterwards to be well worth keeping, having dried off until they looked like paper flowers. A great many varieties last from ten days to a fortnight in water if properly attended to. Many who would be glad of the flowers of Orchids, and who find them so difiBcult to procure when they want them, are deterred from growing them by the notion that they require special houses for their culture and great skill in their management. This is a mistake; for although, in growing a general collection, it is best to provide suitable places for them, and the more the cul- tivator knows about them the better, it is a fact worthy of record that the showiest and best Orchids for cut flowers ai-e the easiest to cultivate, and they may be grown by anyone in ordinary plant or fruit houses ; indeed, the Dendrobium nobiJe and Cattleya Mossise have been grown in that way, and by men who scarcely knew one Orchid from another. The chief points to be observed in order to insure a plentiful supply of flowers are, to give the plants a good start in a warm, moist house, together with a liberal supply of water while they are growing, and after the growth is finished to give them a de- cided period of rest in a cool, airy, sunny house, during which time water should be altogether withheld or administered in but small quantities, the plants being kept perfectly clean at all times. They can be grown in any ordinary well-ventilated stove-house, and rested in a dry Vinery or cool greenhouse. Orchids, indeed, may be grown and flowered successfully in Vineries alone by shifting the plants from the growing houses to the resting ones as they may require it, and this may be done without the slightest danger to the Grapes. As soon as the buds are fully formed, and just before they burst, the plants should be placed in a cool-house and kept slightly shaded until the flowers have expanded to their full size ; in this way they will adorn the plant for some time, and after- wards, if cut when fully formed, they will travel better and last longer than if they had been cut as soon as they opened. Those varieties which produce their flowers in succession on spikes or racemes, the older ones going off as the others come on, should have the flowers cut singly or in sprays as soon as they are ready, leaving the others to perfect themselves ; and so the whole of the spike, which in some of the Onoidiums is several feet in length, may be made use of, and the supply of flowers kept up for a long period. An elegant kind of com- pound flower-vase, consisting of a tall vase in the middle for the larger kinds of flowers, and several shorter ones round it for the smaller ones, can be obtained ; and this is particularly desirable for Orchids, as the short-stemmed flowers can be placed in the lower receptacles without being wired, and they can also be so arranged that each flower stands distinctly out, and can be seen in its entirety, only imperfect specimens, or those of which there are too many, being partially hidden. More depends on the arrangement of the individual flowers than on the profusion in which they are displayed ; the flowers, which should scarcely touch each other, are too often wasted in making a posy, which, when finished, is little else than an un- sightly mass of colour. Pelargoniums, Roses, &c., do not asso- ciate well with Orchids, although a few prominent blooms of Orchids may be added with advantage to a floral arrangement or bouquet of flowers of any kind. The flowers of bulb- ous plants, such as those of Crinum, Eucharis, Pancratium, Urceolina, Amaryllis, GriSinia, Iris, Ixia, and many tuberous- rooted plants, have something in the appearance of their flowers in common with those of Orchids, and these, whenever they can be obtained, should be arranged with them. All flowers look best when surrounded by their own foliage, but as it would be out of the question to expect the leaves of Orchids to be cut with the flowers, some other entire flag-like leaf, such as that of the Poa aquatica or any of the other broad-leaved Grasses or entire-fronded Ferns, should be obtained for the purpose. These will last good for a considerable time, and will greatly improve the effect. The arrangement should be setup as lightly as possible, and should be gone over every other day, the flowers re-arranged and supplied with fresh water ; at the same time its appearance may be alto- gether changed by making use of different foliage. A very excellent thing to revive faded flowers, and one that is not generally known in that capacity is Condy's Fluid (crimson) ; flowers that come to hand withered, may be revived in a short time by cutting the stems afresh, placing them in a shady situation and in water, to which several drops of Fluid have been added. I have seen flowers which have been apparently worthless revived in this way, as if by magic. It is not necessary to use it with fresh and perfect flowers ; but they may be preserved for a much longer time by cutting the stems and adding a few drops of the Fluid to the water just before they begin to fade, repeating it at each re- arrangement. The following are the best, most free-flowering and desirable of Orchids for growing for cut flowers, and they " have the additional merit of being reasonable in price : most of them are so well known, even to many who do not grow Orchids, as to render it unnecessary to give long descriptions of them ; it will therefore only be necessary to give the general colours which they present to a casual observer ; the flowers of all are large and showy, many of them being very sweet-scented : — Coelogyne cristata, snow-white, with orange blotch on the lip, spring flowering; Cattleya Mossias, i-ose, with purple and yellow marks on the lip ; C. crispa, white, lip purple with rosy-white edge ; C. intermedia, sepals and petals pale rose, lip purple ; 0. labiata, sepalsandpetalsrose, lip crimson ; 0. Trianise, sepals and petals light rose, lip yellow and purple, winter flowering, as in the case of CMossioe there are many kinds of this which vary much in colour. Cymbidium Masters!, flowers white with yellow centre, winter flowering ; Loelia purpurata, sepals and petals white, lip dark purple; L. Perrinii, sepals and petals rose, lip purple; L. autumnalis, sepals and petals purplish- rose, lip white, rose and yellow; L. albida, flowers white with pink and yellow lip ; L. anceps, sepals and petals rosy-lilac, lip purple. These La3lias, with the exception of L. purpurata, are autumn and winter flowering plants. Anguloa Clowesi flowers clear lemon-yellow ; Lycaste Skinneri, sepals and petals white or white and rose, lip spotted with various shades of crimson, winter and spring flowering ; L. Harrisonise, sepals and petals creamy white, lip purple ; L. cruenta, flowers deep yellow ; Dendrobium nobile, flowers pink and white with crim- son centre to the lip, winter and spring flowering ; D. Pierardii, flowers blush-white, lip primrose; D. Wardianum, sepals and petals white tipped with mauve, lip yellow and crimson ; D. formosum, flowers pure white, yellow centre to lip; D. chryso- toxum, flowers yellow ; D. thyrsiflorum, sepals and petals white, lip orange ; D. crassinode, sepals and petals white tipped with magenta, lip white and orange ; D. infundibulum, flowers snow-white with yellow centre ; D. superbum, flowers rose ; D. Devonianum, sepals and petals white, veined with purple, lip white, purple, and orange. Most of the Den- drobes enumerated flower in April and May. Odontoglossum Alexandra, flowers snow-white, with golden spots on lip; O. citrosmum, flowers white or blush ; O. grande, flowers clear yellow, barred with brown ; O. Pescatorei, flowers white, with yellow and rose mark on lip ; O. pulchellum, flowers white ; Pbatenopsis Schilleriana, flowers rosy lilac ; P. grandiflora and P. amabilis, flowers snow-white, with yellow marks in the centre : strong plants of Phalrenopsis last in bloom several months. Zygopetalum Mackayi and Z. crinitum, sepals and petals greenish-yellow barred with brown, lip white, netted with blue ; Trichopilia suavisj flowers wljite, spotted with rose; T 206 THE GAEDEN. [Aug. 26, 1876. tortiUs.sepalsandpctalsyellowisli-brovrn, lip white, spotted with pink : Oncidium fiexuosurn, O. sphacelatum, O. Cavendishi, O. tigrinura, the chief colour of which is bright golden yellow ; Miltouia spectabilis, sepals and petals white, lip purple-edged with white; Calanthe Veitchi, rose-pink; C. vestita rubra, white, with crimson centre ; 0. vestita lutea, white, with yellow centre — these are winter-flowering ; Aerides odoratum, white and light mauve; and Phaius Wallichi, yellowish-brown, white and purple. The greater part of the Cypripediums are well worth growing for cut flowers, although they are not general favourites with the bouquet-makers. There is one, however, which cannot be dispensed with — 0. ni- veum, a kind with snow-white flowers covered with almost imperceptible mauve dots, and having a yellow spot in the centre. The whole of the varieties enumerated have fine flowers. They blossom at various times throughout the year, and many ot the varieties, such as Dondrobium uobile, &c.,can, by a little management, be brought into bloom at any time within sis weeks of their proper flowering time ; and they may be grown as easily and flowered as successfully in ordinary plant or fruit houses by any one who takes an interest in them as a Gardenia or a Stephanotis. Orchid flowers should always be cut in the morning before the sun gets strong, and they are best packed for transit in rather shallow tin boxes, about 18 in. or 2 ft. in length ; a layer of cotton-wool should be placed in the bottom of the box and a sheet of very soft tissue-paper over it ; the flowers should then be taken one at a time and placed in rows across the box, the heads being put all one way, and each flower pressed gently but firmly against the others ; when a layer of flowers has been so placed a sheet of tissue-paper should be put over them ; next a sheet of cotton wool with a sheet of tissue-paper on top of it ; another layer of flowers may then be placed with their heads in the opposite direction to those previously put in, and so on until the bos is almost full, when Pern fronds and other foliage sufiioient to prevent the whole from shaking should be added. Some who are in the habit of forwarding flowers frequently by post or rail use little or no cotton-wool, but packages are often so knocked about that it is better to make all safe by using some, unless the package be conveyed by careful hands ; care should, however, be taken wherever cotton-wool is iised in packing Orchid blooms to place soft tissue-paper between it and the flowers ; many of them being viscous, the cotton-wool sticks to them, and it is impossible to wholly remove it ; it also takes the substance out of many thin- petalled flowers. There is little fear ot the blooms being injured by close packing ; one flower seldom- injures another, but care should be taken in packing flowers not to mix soft- petalled kinds and those of a harder texture together, and also to keep tho stems from rubbing the flowers. James O'Brien. FLOWER GARDENING IN HYDE PARK. The display of summer-flowering plants in this, tho largest of London parks, is a very interesting one, considering the drought and heat to which they have been subjected, and which has left an unfavourable impression, especially on such plants as Lobelias, Calceolarias, and Pelargoniums. Carpet and fine-foliaged plants, on the other hand, have thriven unusually well under the high temperature, and seem much better adapted for permanent summer and autumn displays in our climate than the flowering plants which have just been named. The triangular dell at tho head of the Serpentine exhibits one of the most elfective bits of planting in the whole park. It is just tho place in which picturesque planting might be carried out to advantage, as it is sheltered by aback- ground of shrubs and might have the advantage of still bolder water vegetation in tho foreground than that which now exists, while as tho whole arrangement can bo seen from one side only, tliero is here scope for pictures of plant form and leaf beauty of which full advantage lias scarcely been taken. As it is, tho blue Shore Grass (Elymus arenarius) and the Royal Fern, which fringe the banks of the little stream go far to make up tho beauty and interest of this littlo scene, and both, by the way, are hardy British plants which may be grown without trouble in any garden when once planted. The carpet bedding in Hyde Park this season does not strike us as being so effective as when it was confined to the front of the Ivy-covered cottage in Kensington Gardens, among fine trees and surrounded by glades of fresh green turf. As no*v scattered along the beds bordering on Park Lane, we do not find such striking eff'ects in the way of colour as as we ought to do. There is one good feature, however, here which adds not a little to the beauty of the bedding arrangements, and that is, the strips of fresh green turf which surround all the flower-beds; these have been secured amid the almost ■more than tropical heat and drought by means of a free use o£ the hose and hydrants. Looking at tnis, our principal West- end park, as a whole, one cannot but regret to see so littlo being done in the way of permanent enrichment it by planting in it some of the many fine varieties of trees and shrubs now to be found in our best nurseries. In its borders and outlying beds, too, might be planted hardy perennials, as has already been done with such excellent results at the Crystal Palace and elsewhere. The Flower-beds alongside Park Lane are planted as they were last season, the majority of them being composed of masses of scarlet, salmon, pink, rose, white, orcerise Zonal Pelargoniums, margined withthecrimsou-leaved Alternanthera amcona; Pyrethrum parthenifolium aureum, popularly known as Golden Feather, and an outer double line of the rosette-like Echeveria secunda glauca. Here and there carpet beds are introduced, and at intervals occur mixed beds of fine-foliaged plants, edged with Echeverias, Altcrnantheras, and Golden-leaved Pyrethrum. These mixed beds are, to our mind, the best part of the arrangement, as in them one gets a glimpse of the free grace and luxuriance of noble-habited planes and just enough bright colour to contrast well with their different tints of green. Scarcely two of these dwarf sub-tropical beds, as they may be called, are planted alike ; but the materials of which they chiefly consist are dwarf Fan Palms, Eucalj'ptus or Blue Gum trees in a yonng state, tho golden-foliaged Abutilon Thompsoni, green-leaved Dracaenas, D. indivisa, D. marginata, D. gracilis, and D. rubra or D. congesta being the most noticeable ; the feathery-leaved Acacia lophantba being also used with excellent effect. These rise out of an iindergrowth of Mignonette, a welcome addition on account of its grateful perfume. Others of these mixed beds are planted with golden-blotched Abutilon, large-leaved Aralias, Perilla, A.butilon Boule de Neige, Grevillea robusta, variegated Maize, young plants of Musa superba, and scarlet-flowered Erythrinas, all cfrectively grouped in varied masses and edged with blue Lobelia and Golden Feather. Some of tho mixed beds of pale blue Ageratum and Yellow Calceolarias, edged with faint blue Lobelias and Golden Feather, present but a poor appear- ance. Among Pelargoniums, Lady Waldegravo (pink), Mrs. Ffytche (rose), and Miss Stubbs (crimson-scarlet) are good of their kind for bold masses. A modification of tho lute Mr. Donald Beaton's " shot silk " bed here struck us as being \evy effective. It was an oblong mass of tho silver-edged Pelar- gonium Miss Kingsbury, mixed with Verbena Purple Queeu. A sombre-tinted bed here also deserves notice, as being very distinct. It was planted diagonally with alternating lines of the dark purple Iresino Lindeni and Alyssum maritimum variegatum, studded with pearly-white flowers, the whole edged with blue Lobelia and Golden Feather Pyrethrum. Another dis- tinct-looking bed was planted with the vivid scarlet-flowered Pelargonium Robert Fish and Verbena vcnosa mixed, the edging being the ."^ame as in the last case ; a broad margin of Colons, or better still, Iresine Lindeni, would have made this bed a very effective one. A striking pair of oblong beds were dotted with bushy jilants of purple Iresine on a carpet of glaucous- leaved goldcn-flowored Ga/.ania splendens, the whole margined with lines of Golden Feather, crimson Alternanthera, and glaucous Echeveria, in the order named. This combination is rich, bright, and permanent, and may well be repeated without any fear of disappointment next season. Pelargonium Lord Palmerston, a crimson nosegay, a good kind for bold masses, looked well here, even after the heavy thunder-storm to which it was subjected tho other day. The young Oaks which alternate with the first series of beds as one enters at Hyde Park Corner, are already showing uumistakablo signs ot Aug. 26, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 207 suffering from the Planes on the right, and had bettor be removed to an opener situation, especially as they are out o£ place in tbeir present position, a fact well shown by the succeeding stretch of turf on which Portugal Laurels and dwarf "Pan Palms are plunged with good effect ; masses of Pelargonium Vesuvius (scarlet), and Mrs. Turner, a rosy-lilac variety, in the way of Araarantus, here show them- selves off to advantage, as does also a crimson-scarlet variety named The Principal. The series of beds between the Marble Arch and the first lodge are unworthy of remark; indeed, a clear breadth of well-kept turf, combined with the tree shade that exists here, would have been infinitely preferable and far more economical. The flower garden arrangements in front of the cottage in Kensington Gardens, near the Serpentine, are this year wholly altered, and the carpet bedding, once so popular there, has been superseded by a di.splay of oi'dinary bedding plants which are not of a kind to call for any especial notice. In the arrangement the central four-cornered bed is the best; it is planted with crimson Coleus, edged with lines of Robert Pish Pelargonium, Alternanthera amcena, and Golden Pyrethrum, in the order named — a plant of the golden- blotched Abutilou Thompsoni being placed at each angle of the central mass of Coleus. Cai'pet Bedding. Among the carpet beds bordering on Park Lane, one of the best is an oblong scroll formed of serpentine masses of the crimson Alternanthera amcena and the orange and green.leaved A. amabilis alternately — the rhomboidal interstices being filled with the glaucous-leaved Veronica inoana. Then comes a border composed of Golden Pyrethrum, thena line of Alternanthera amcena, the whole margined by a double row of Echeveria secunda glauca. Near the last is a corresponding oblong bed of the same area, but planted in a more complicated manner, the main design consisting of three crosses — the cen- tral one Coleus Verschaffelti, the two end ones Iresine Lindeni. Around the crosses is a bold, open fretwork of Alternanthera amcena, the openings beingfrdled with Golden Feather, Santo- lina incana, one of tbe best of all silvery carpet plants, and the blue Kleinia repens, margined with lines of Golden Feather, crimson Alternanthera, and a double row of the glaucous Echeveria. Another bed, planted with glaucous-leaved suc- culents, orange and crimson Alternantheras, silvery Anten- naria, and Golden Feather, was both effective and pretty. We next come to a couple of heart-shaped beds, in the centre of which, on a cai-pet of silvery Autennaria, are two fiddle-shaped masses of crimson Alternanthera and an oblong mass of pale golden Mesembryanthemums between their lower points, the whole being margined with lines of Golden Feather, crimson Alternanthera, and a double line of glaucous Echeveria. One of the oblong carpet beds in the dell at the head of the Ser- pentine is very pretty ; its centre is planted with a mass of the soft golden-variegated Mesembryanthemum, on which are tridents of crimson Alternanthera around a central boss of purple Iresine, the whole being surrounded by a broad band of the orange-tinted Alternanthera amabilis, edged with a row of Echeveria glauca. Two heart-shaped beds, planted with the same materials, are also both bright and distinct, as is also a large oblong bed planted with crimson and orange Alternan- theras, glaucous Eoheverias, and Golden Fig Marigold. Sub-tropieal Beds. These are in most cases very luxuriant and effective. Some large oblong beds of Canna variabilis are edged with the soft golden-leaved, scarlet-flowered Pelargonium Eobert Fish, and a large serpentine bed of Palms, Dracasnas, Arundinaria falcata, and Ficus elastica, on a ground-work of purple Amarantus and golden-blotched Abutilon is also well worth notice. The best part of the last arrangement, however, is the edging, which consists of a row of a strong scarlet Zonal Pelargonium and a margin of variegated Coltsfoot (Tussilago Farfara variegata). This last-named plant is unsur- passed for edging large beds of purple-leaved plants, and as seen here, contrasted with the purple Amarantus, it is one of the most distinct features in the park. The Castor-oil Plants, which grow satisfactorily in shady positions, have done well, and a circular bed of the deep green Solanum Warsoewiczi, margined with a silver-leaved Pelargonium, is distinct, as is also an oblong bed of India-rubber Plants on a carpet of golden Zonals and Funkias, edged with a dark blue Lobeha. A circular bed, composed of Solanums, Wigandias, Hemp, Acacias, golden Abutilons, &o. on a carpet of Coleus, is also very good, the green foliage of various hues being set off by a belt of the bright silvery Centaurea ragusina compacta, edged with a dwarf purple-flowered Lobelia. A circular bed of Hemp, Ferdinanda, Castor-oil Plants, Blue Gums, Acacias, and Maize, margined with belts of gold and silver-leaved Zonals, is also very effective. Another long bed of Wigandias on a carpet of Dactylis variegata looks well, margined by a belt of the variegated Coltsfoot. Among other edgings we noted one as being very bright and good, namely, Iresine Lindeni, and a white Lobelia named Brilliant. We should like to see the blue Shore Grass (Elymus arenarius) oftener used than it is in sub- tropical arrangements, its habit and colour being alike distinct. One of the best of all the sub-tropical beds in the park is a large oblong one, composed of Hemp, from 10 ft. to 12 ft. in height — silvery Solanums, golden-blotched Abutilons, Maize, Ferdinanda eminens, Blue Gum trees, Erythrinas, and Acacias, on an undergrowth of Perilla, the whole surrounded by a line of scarlet Pelargonium Shakespeare. One or two beds of crimson-flowered Erythrinas, edged with variegated Euonymus, deserve notice ; as does also a mass of Musa SLiperba, edged with common Ivy ; and a mixed bed of Hemp, Acacias, Solanums, and golden-blotched Abutilons, margined with a dark crimson scarlet Pelargonium, then a line of a silvery Zonal, and an edging of the dwarf purple Lobelia Omen, struck us as being massive and good. On the green undulating strip of turf near Albert Gate, Palms, Dracffinas, and Cyoads are plunged in profusion beneath the trees, colour being supplied by Pelargoniums and Alternantheras in circular beds at the foot of mop-headed Acacias, which always look fresh even in the hottest of summer weather. In the little valley at the head of the Serpentine are soine good sub-tropical plants. The little streamlet in the centre is margined with bosses of fresh green Ivy, and some clumps of the blue Shore Grass (Elymus arenarius) which have been naturalised here, are now very effective, as are also some masses of the Royal Pern. These were planted last year for the first time, and appear to be thriving well. The planting on the isack ground beyond the stream is not so pleasing, for although there is a profusion of fine foliaged-plants dotted over the turf, the effect is unsatisfactory ; half the number of Tree Ferns, Palms, and Musas, well arranged, would have produced a much better result. The bases of the Poplar trees^ however, are wreathed very prettily with out-leaved Monsteras and other scandent Aroids ; but what is really wanted to enable one to enjoy the planting here, is more breadth in the arrange- ment : one bold and well-varied group would be amply suffi- cient for the limited space under notice. The principal plants employed are Musa Ensete, Theophrasta imperialis, Dracasna iudivisa, Sanseviera, New Zealand Flax, Dwarf Fan Palms, Tree Ferns, Alsophilas, Dicksonias, and a few dwarf Ferns and Aroids; the carpet beds near the railings are pretty, but the materials and colours might have been more varied than they are with advantage. F. W. B. Eaonymus micrcphyllus as an Edgin? Plant.— In one of Messrs. Lee'a Kurseries at Isleworth, this plant is nsed as an edKing in a very successful way. There have been many substitutes for Box. few re? embliof? it, and none EO good as it as a dwarf evergreen edging ; but this neat kltle Euonymus resembles it BO cloEely in stature and in density that many persons would probably pa-^s by the edsings believing them to be Box, though they have a darker hne of gretn. Whether it be quite so hardy as Box we do not know. It is also a shrub of great value from its dwarf habit, closeness of texture, and dense evergreen character. — V. Mahernia pinnata.— This pretty little plant from the Cape has been for several weeks and still is covered with its orange and red bells in the open bor- der where I placed it early in May. It is one of those old-fashioned little gems which ought to be oftener seen than it is in our greenhouses and summer borders. — H. HiErUE Ceewe, Tring. Large-flowered Bellwort (Platycodon grandiflornm).— This is oneo the prettiest perennials now in flower. It is very nearly allied to the Cam- panulas, but the petals are of great substance, and somewhat resemble in colour and form a blue Crocus. The foliage is covered with a delicate bloom; the height of the plant is about 13 in. It thonld be carefully tied out to sma Btalies, and is then a very attractive plant for tVe front of tho herbaceous border. The root is luberons, but perfectly hardy in most parts of the country — SALMOBICErS. 208 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 26, 1870. NOTES OP THE WEEK. The'Double Scarlet LYcnNis. — We have several times this year referred to this old plant, and have now to say that during the present nnfavoarable season, its beanty and persistence of bloom are very noticeable, some heads of bloom now appearing on side-shoots being Tcry handsome. VicioiiiA Water Lily. — The Victoria regia is now flowering freely in the aquatic-honse at Kew ; its flowers measure nearly 1 fc. in diameter, are of a delicate rosy colour, and emit a delicious perfume. HvAciNTnus CANDiCAXs HARDY. — This remarkable plant wonld appear to be quite hardy about London, thriving well in sandy loam. It is one of the plants that might with advantage be placed among low shrubs — Azaleas and the like. Dasylirion glaucum. — A fine specimen of this Mexican Brome. liad is now in flower in the succulent-house at Kew. The spike is fnlly 16 fc. in height, and a square of glass had to be removed to allow it to pass through the roof. It is a well-known greenhouse plant, with serrate, glaucous, linear leaves, but it rarely attains so large a size as the plant in question, and seldom flowers. Canna Premier de Nice. — This is a beautiful flowering Canna with large and handsome clear yellow flowers. It is of course also valuable as a fine-foliaged plant. We notice this in Messrs. llooper's (of Covent Garden) nursery garden at Twickenham. Probably this plant would be well worth growing in cool-houses, where Cannas cannot be grown well in the open air. TuE Earliest Plums. — It will be seen from Mr. Swing's report of the Pluiu crop in the Eastern Counties (see p. 215) that the earliest Plum is the Blue Perdrigon, an old and excellent sort, suitable alike for dessert or preserving, and that the next earliest is Eubbard'a Early Prolific, which is some days earlier than Early Kivers. The Weepin'o Wainut. — This is likely to prove a tree of great beanty and character; some specimens of it in Messrs. Lee's (of llammersmith) tree nursery at Isleworth, are very interesting now from the extraordinary vigour with which the strong, richly-clad shoots are growing towards the gronnd. From the fact that weep, ing trees generally improve so much more than others with age, much may be expected from this tree in the future. The Season i.v Covent Garden. — The supplies in Covent Garden are at a lower ebb than they have been for a good many years. The aspect of the market is indeed quite nnlike what it usually is at this season, owing to the scarcity of produce. Prices are so high, too, as to induce the growers to bring all they can. Were it not for foreign produce, we should probably experience a scarcity. The Drought in Midland Gardens. — Mr. Tillery, writing to us from Welbeck, says : — We begin in this district now to despair of r.nin coming to do any good to the root and Grass crops, for since the 2nd of the month little has (alien, and the heat has been tropical. We hear of thunderstorms and of heavy rains in the Southern coun. ties, but nono comes in the Midlands. I have the kitchen garden irrigated here, so have fared better than many this summor. The IlAiL.STOitM Belief Fund. — Mr. John Fraser, The Nurseries, Lea Bridge, makes a renewed ap|.>eal to the public for contributions to this fund, which he says is increasing but slowly; ,i^500, of which the Baroness Burdett Coutts gave .G5J, have already been subscribed, but so heavy has been the damafje, that much more is wanted, and that quickly, as stock for 1877 must bo secured before winter Eets in. Those, therefore, who wish to re.-pond to Mr. Fruscr's appeal, should forward their subscriptions at once to him, or to any Oi' the branches of the London and County Bank. The Oaks of the Unitkd States.— Dr. Engelmnnn has a way o taking up some diflicult subject, studjing it for a long while, and finilly coming out with something satisfactory, or as near that as possible. That, on our Oaks, just published in a pamphlet of twenty pages, is ono of the bcEt of his papers, and the most important prac. lically, because it dea's with such useful trees as Oaks. It is written in English, aud plain English, tuo ; so that any one with a moderate knowledge of botany, or a little patience and pcreovcrance in studying it out, can use and understand it. Dr. Engelmann puts the Oaks into a good natural arrangement, points out the best characters for dis- tinguishing tho species, and brings in some new ones, derived from the way in which the loaves are rolled up, plaited, or otherwise dis- posed in tho buds. Ue shows that the popular division into Black and White Oaks, from tho hue and nature of tho bark, agrees with a scientific classification ; that the wood of the Black Oaks, of what. ever kind, is always brittle, porous, and comparatively worthless, while that of tlio White Oaks is tougher, heavier, more compact, and farnishoa tho onl^ pqrts Cjt for tho wheelwright's or cooper's use. Uo distinguishes 38 species, including Quercus densiflora, a very pecu- liar tree, native of California, of an Asiatic type, and in many respects more a Chestnut than an Oak ; and he describes six hybrids — Quercus Lenna is one of these, a cross between tho Scarlet Oak and the Shingle Oak; but Q. heterophylla, the Bartram Oak, he decidedly ranks as a species. — •" American Agiiculturist." [The whole of Dr. Engelmann's article is printed in this issue of The Garden. In a complete form it will be found valuable for reference.] CiiASSELAS DE FoNTAiNEBLEAU Grapes. — Frcuch-grown frnitof thii variety is now being i a ported to Covent Garden market, packed tightly in small oblong Poplar.wood boxes, the retail price being about Is. per lb. It is just now tho cheapest and best of all imported Grapes. This variety is largely grown in the open air on walls in the neighbourhood of Thom^ry, Fontainebleau, and St. Cloud, and is sy no. nymons with our Royal Sluscadine, which not nnfrequently ripens ita fruit on outside walls in this country. Children's Flower Shows. — A flower show in connection with tho Dewsbury Moor Board Schools took p'ace on Saturday, August 12, and was quite a success. The bouquets of wild flowers were very tastefully arranged, and those obtaining the first prizes contained fourteen or fifteen varieties. The show consisted of three divisions, viz. : (1) Window-grown plants. (2) Cultivated flowers. (3) Wild flowers contributed by the scholars. The Dewsbury School Board have built three very handsome schools, but unfortunately the Con- tinental idea of "Kindergarten" (at least, as far as the outer arrangements are concerned) seems never to have entered their minds. The large playgrounds are strewn with cinder.ashes, no portion being set apart for scholars' gardens. Savoy Approach to the Thames Embankment. — Tho footpath on the right-hand side of Savoy Street, leading from the Strand, has been extended to the Thames Embankment, forming what ia to be called the Savoy Approach, a much. needed outlet near Waterloo Bridge. The wall of the Savoy Chapel-yard has been set back, and the pathway, for almost the entire length of the street, is asphalte. We fear, however, that a good many accidents are yearly in store for us in slippery weather, owing to the excessive steepness of the gradient by the church-yard. A handsome iron railing is in prepara- tion, which will divide the Approach from the adjoining property of the Duchy of Lancaster, at the end of the Embankment gardens. The Approach is now open to the public. HARDY FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. The Tiger and Japan Lilies (L. tigrinnm and L. spcciosura) aro the great attractions of the week, the double Tiger Lilies being very tine, as are also the display of Japan Lilies grown in tho open ground at Barr's trial ground. The tEiiotheras continue to be among the most beautiful flowers of tho season, tlie lovely white G3. speciosa being now among tho most at- tractive. To some extent the best plants of the week are those which naturally bloom earlier, but there are certain plants peculiar to the season which aro effective, particularly tho Uolden Rods and the Asters, of which last there is a good collectiou at Kew. There is little to choose among the Golden Kod.'J, which are mainly fitted for the wild garden, but among the Jlichaelmas Daisies there aro many kinds worthy of a place in the choicest borders, and also excellent for masses and groups of autumnal Howeriug plants. The n.arrow-leavod variety of the Olympic St. John's Wort, growing at Messrs. E. CI. Henderson's, is a very pretty plant, and seems distinct ■from the plants which wc spoke of as growing at the Hale Farm Nurseries some weeks ago. Ranunculus Lingua is beautiful by tlie water-side. Wc noticed the Wliito Lavender, a good addition to tho wild garden, at Henderson's. Tho warmth of the present season has brouglit out the beauty of Platycodons in a remarkable degree ; these are capital plants for warm soils and districts. Veronica japonica is the name of a stout and handsome species growing at the AVellington Nur- series, where the uucommo:i Gentiaiia excisa is also in bloom. For the wild garden it is important to mention Eupatoriura purpureum and other plants of the same race. Marvel of Peru is alf-'O very pleasing when grown in warm, rich soil, and in variety. Ncpeta macrantha is an uncommon kind in flower at Ware's, where is also the the star-like Diplopappus umbel- lutus ; Gladiolus purpureus is also making a good show. Among climbers, the Scammony (G'onvolvulus Scammonia) may be mentioned as graceful and free-flowering, though not so bright i:i colour as many of its kind. Att8. 26, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 209 Tall bine Lobelia (L. sypbilitioa). ^-^ Perennial Flax (Linumperenne). Gentian-bine Pentstemon (P. Jeffrayanns). Untiie-leared Clematis (0. integrifolia). White Evening Primrose (CEaotberaspeciosa). Abronia nmbellata. Drnmmond's Evening Primrose (CEnotbera Drnramondi). Common Arrowhead (Sagittaria sagittifolia). Hardy Opuntia (O, Sedum Rhodiola. Canadian Golden Rod (Solidago canadensis). (Enothera Lamarokiana. SOME HARDY FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. 210 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 2G, 1876. THE INDOOR GARDEN. PLANTS SUITABLE FOR FOECING. Many plants ai'c cultivated in this countr}', 'whose natural period of flowering is during winter and early in spring. Thej- arc. however, mostly natives of tropical countries, and jnust, on that account, bo grown in a high temperature. To this rule there are, however, sundry exceptions, most notable among which are such plants as the Camellia, manj- of the Cape Heaths, some of the Himalayan and other Khododen- drons, &c. ; but it is, nevertheless, certain that the supply of flowers daring winter would be somewhat meagre, were it not supplemented by the produce of various kinds of plants forced into bloom at periods long anterior to their usual or natural time of flowering. By this practice, the flowering season of such plants is very often considerably extended, and their beauty and fragrance can be enjoyed for a longer period. Ibis is, of course, very desirable, as, in the estimation of many, the beauty and perfume of the most choice exotics fall short of thos3 of such old favourites as the Rose, the Pink, the Violet, &c. My present object, therefore, is to point out the treatment whicb will be likely to induce a few species of the more common plants to readily submit to the process of forcing, BO as to assist in meeting the demand for cut flowers and plants in bloom which already exists in almost every establish- ment, and more particularly so during winter and early spring. The Rose, being the acknowledged queen of flowers, ig deservedly held in the highest estimation during winter and early spring. In former years, when the old Provence or Cabbage Eo£o was the only variety attempted to be forced, it was found to bo some, what d.ilicult to cut Rose blooms in anything like abundance early in the season; but now tliat diflicnlty can hardly bo said to exist, as with the assistance of the many Euitable varietie.^i of the Hybrid Per. petual and Tea.scented sections, Roses may generally be had in bloom, more or less, throughout the year if desired, and in many garden establishments the display of bloom npon pot Roses during March rivals that of July. All kinds of Roses, but more particu. larly Hybrid Porpetuals, will readily submit to the process of forcing, and the plants may, with ordinary care, be kept in a healthy con. dition, and forced year after year for a long period. A collection here, consisting chitfly of the older varieties of the Hybrid Perpetual and Tea.scented sections, has been forced more or less every season for at least twenty years, and has seldom, if ever, failed to furnish abundance of bloom from about tho middle of February until flowers conld be cut from plants out-of-doors. These plants are nearly all upon their own roots, and were ciiginally potted in rich, light soil, in pots some 8 in. in diameter, and they still continue to occupy tho same pots, or pots of similar di:iiensions ; but they are, nevertheless, regularly re.potted each season, when the drainage is carefully renewed, the biillg of soil reduced, and the roots cut back so as to admit of a portion of fresh rich compost being annually introduced. This re. potting generally takes place early in January, when the first portion of the plants is introduced to the forcing.houso, where their roots are placed upon, or partly plunged in, a slight bottom, heat, and in an atmospheric temperature not exceeding 55° for the first fortnight. Pinks.— Next to the Rose as a suitable plant for forcing stands the Pink, and the varieties of it adapted for this purpose are now somewhat numerous. They are chiefly related to Anno Bolcyn, a well, known forcing sort, which may bo considered as tho typo of the see. tlou. Cuttings of the necessary stock of each sort should be inserted annually early in March, and tho earliest batch rf forced plants will generally fur.iith the supply of cnttinga, which will be found to strike root very freely in a compost formed of about equal parts of sharp river or silver sand and fiuely.sifted Icaf.soil, using well. drained pots of about 6 in. in diameter, placing them upon a slight hot. bed, and covering them with a hand-glass. Treated in this manner they ■will soon become well rooted, and when that is fonnd to be the case, they should be potted off into 3. in. or °' ^""^""^ '''"°'> ""y '" almost endless, and bruBbinB i^t^^J^w" „ ■ ^^P "'",'! operation. Now that the Grass is eut bv mnchinerv, £, t„ Zi^"*"'" " "■°,"''^ °°' '™ ^"'•y difficult, to invent a bruahinR machine Lves mTh ouiekT.^hnn''-."'''''';' ''? "'"J""'' °' <"™'-'°8 'b" O'-ass from dead leaves mticii quicker thin it can bo done bv manual labour. Are vou aware of Bnoh on affair harinR been over attomptoaf-lHQniBM. ^ A GEACEFUL WALL GE EOCK SHEDB. IIUSMODIUM PENDULIFLORUII (lESPEDEZA BICOLOR VAR. SIEBOLDII.) By W. B. HEilSLEY. Tins shrub has been in our gardens for some years, but hitherto no portrait of it has appeared in any English publica- tion, though it is a very ornamental and a perfectly hardy subject. In looking up what information I could respect- ing it, I was unable to identify it with any of the dried specimens of Desmodium at Kew, either from China or Japan; and on representing this to my friend Mr. Baker, who has lately described the Leguminosa3 for the " Flora of India," he suggested that it might be a Lespedeza. Acting on this suggestion I compared it with the Lespedezas, and finding it so much like L. Sieboldii of Miquel, I procured fresh specimens to determine the point, and on opening several young pods I found only one seed in each pod. This is one of the principal characters of the genus Lespedeza, and one that excludes our plant from Desmodium. Moreover, the whole history of the plant points to the correctness of this view. The first figure of it appeared in the " Flore des Serres," and the writer of the description says that it appears to be the same as Desmodium racemosum of De Candolle ; but Dr. Oudemans, discovering some difference in habit, &c., gave it the name of D. penduliflorum. Now De Candolle's raceraosum is said to be the same as Thunberg's Hedysarum racemosum, which Miquel also quotes under his Lespedeza Sieboldii. Lespedeza bicolor is widely dispersed in Japan and North China up to the Amur Eiver, and varies very much in habit, in the shape and size of the leaves, and in the length of the flower-spikes, and therefore I follow Maximowicz in regarding Sieboldii as a variety of_it. And both the dried specimens and the living plants at Kew exhibit a wide range of variation. The flower-spikes are either short and nearly erect, or very long and pendent, sometimes twice as long as those in the figure, and sometimes not more than half as long. In habit, too, there is considerable difference, the stems being sufficiently stout to stand erect, or slender as in our variety, and requiring some support. Against a wall or with slight wire stakes it forms a very attractive sight when in full flower, or if allowed to ramble over rookwork. It also succeeds well if treated as an herbaceous plant and cut down to the ground every year. Carriere, writing on it in the " Eevue Horticole " in 1873, says that it is perfectly hardy in Paris, not suffering the least injury even in the most severe winters, and I have known it as such for several years. The same plant is in this country under the name of Desmodium japonicum. [We noticed a thrifty young stock of this plant in Messrs. Lee's Nurseries at Isleworth the other day; it is also pro- bably obtainable in various other nurseries. It deserves general cultivation, especially where ornamental wall or rock shrubs are sought for. It would also prove an elegant subject for trellis work, the sides of covered ways, and the like. Our plate was prepared long before Mr. Hemsley furnished his description, hence we cannot follow his nomenclature on the coloured plate. In any case, however, the garden name by which it is known will probably be used for some time.] Growing Slutisia decurrens. — This showy Gazania-liko plant is fonnd to be hardy at Floors Castle, growing on a soatb- west wall, where it has flowered every season for the last five or six years. Mr. Knight recommends, according to " The Florist," that it should bo planted more freely than it is, especially whore conserva. tory walls have to be furnished. Mr. Coleman, of Eastnor, advises people to plant it in tho open ground. Somo years ago ho procured a plant which was trained against a south wall, but finding the situa- tion too hot and dry, ho removed it to an open space in the grounds, whoro it grew vigorously, flowered profusely, and ripened seeds from which young plants wore raised. Against a wall, with him, the old leaves and stems assume a rusty appearance ; but planted out in the open quarters, in a compost of peat and loam on a cool bottom, where it can ramble over rootwork or an old bush, it forms a striking object. It is impatient of close tiaiuing, and well repays being left alone. _.ij;:L-:i-'irt t 0 The Garden, OiTice: 'iil, i'5oTJ.lhampi;or! Street, Covent C-srden, Lorjion. WC. DESMODIUM PENDULIFLOP^UM Aus. 26, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 217 MY DIARY FOR SEVEN YEARS. By W. DENNING. Aug. 28. — Sou'ing— Radishes in frames to keep them from birds. Pottir.j;— About 170 pots of annuals, viz., 50 pots of Stocks, 50 pots of Phlox, and remainder of Tropseolums, Nemophila, and Lobelia. Potting up the Neapolitan Violets, taking them up with large balls. C'uUings — Putting in Datura (struck20th September, should have been put in a month sooner) ; Hollyhocks, Achillea Clavena3 ; layered Sensation Chrysantliemam and White Chrysanthemums. Planting — — Fresh Vines, where any were doing badly. Planting Strawberry plants, viz., two beds of Keen's Seedling, one each of Garibaldi, Presi- dent, Eclipse, Dr. Hogg, Oscar, Sir J. Paston, Elton Pine, and Haut- bois. Miscellaneous — Staking October Mignonette and Dendrobiums ; tying pot Calceolarias ; tying up Lettuce ; putting netting up to Vinery ; shifting Poinsettia cuttings into 48-sized pots ; putting the Disas in shady pit ; putting Oncidiam superbum on fresh block ; put- ting several Lilium lancifolinm roseum under cover ; putting Asters in pots under walls in shade ; putting the Chysis into the Cattleya-house ; shifting a few Sikkim Rhododendrons and Azaleas ; earthing-up and watering latest planted Cauliflower; digging land for August-sown Lettuce ; clearing Pea land for young Strawberry plants ; giving all Celery a little earth to keep down suckers ; cleaning last August-sown Cabbage stumps to make sprouts for winter ; giving Lilies a top- dressing of manure ; top-dressing the Gardenias with leaf-soil and sand ; cleaning around Eoses ; cleaning among forcing plants in pots ; weeding Watercress bed ; Salvia f ulgens and Zelinda Dahlia just beginning to make a show; Verbenas in good flower; making Vine pit ready for catch crop of Cucumbers ; digging Potato land for Endive. Watering Peas, Celery, Radishes, and Beans under wall. Gathering Jargonelle Pears ; taking up Garlic ; getting in some of each sort of herb for drying ; tying herbs up in papers, and hanging them up in kitchen. Salwey and Lord Palmerston now the only Peaches under glass ; conservatory. Rose garden, ribbon borders, and both ends of terrace looking pretty well now. Aug. 29. — Sowing — ^Bath Cos and Stanstead Lettuce. Potting — Cyclamens, also double Tree Violets ; putting seedling Cinerarias into flowering pots. Cuttings — Put in of Coleus (conservatory sorts) ; Heliotrope ; Ageratnir ; laying Cerastium in like Box edging for planting in spring; putting Iresiue Lindeni in cold frame. P!a)itiii(7 — Cucumbers in pot Vine pit, to crop well in October ; filling up the Cabbage and Eadive again where eaten by grubs. Miscellav eons — Shaking out and re-potting Pelargoniums ; putting spring-sown Onions under glass to dry ; staking and tying plants in conservatory prepara. tory to re-arranging ; netting Green Gage Plums ; finishing nailing summer wood on all wall trees ; tying up and earthing some Endive ; washing East Indian Orchids ; giving all Celery a good watering ; putting a 60-size potful of soot to one large can of water to some diseased Celery ; sending in for use Devonshire Quarrenden Apples, Quetsche St. Martin and Washington Plums, Greeu Gage Plums and Figs, alsoMorello Cherries, and pickling Beans ; gathering a few out- door Peaches, also Red Currants for stoneless jam ; taking up for seed Ashleaf Kidney Potatoes (no use for eating after this period) ; would gather Williams' Bon Chretien Pear about now according to season ; putting autumn Onions under cover ; making pots ready for sowing Mignonette for early spring; finishing clearing out flues; washing some of the dirty pots in Orchid-house. Aug. 30. — Cuttings — Put in Carnations. Planting — Stocks on warm border. 3Iiscellaneous — Finishing nailing Peach trees and ex- posing fruit ; taking up Plantains on lawns ; washing Saccolabiums, also Azaleas for thrips ; exposing Peach fruits out-of-doors, and began syringing again every evening ; gathering Green Gage Plums in or- chard ; getting up all Potatoes ; putting manure in span-pit for winter Cucnmber plants ; clearing land for Strawberry plantation ; making a Mushroom bed ; picking off dead flowers in flower garden ; tidying up flower-beds ; pinching Perilla ; pegging Ageratum ; taking dead blossoms off Pelargoniums ; clipping hedges ; looking over East Indian Orchids for thrips ; weeding walks ; taking wasps' nests ; clearing out drains. Aug. 31. — Sowing — Mustard and Cress, also Cucumbers for early spring, say February ; these were good by 20th December. Should sow again about 25th September. Potting ^Iria, large-flowered sorts ; also old cut down double Pelargoniums and remaining Lilacs ; shaking out the Dendrobinm sanguinolentum, roots all gone off — potting in very fibrous peat ; shaking out Coelogyne Cummingi, and looking over a few others basketed in Sphagnum. Cuttings — Put in another batch of Centaureas in single pots in cold frame. Planting — Digging land for and planting August-sown Incomparable and Imperial Cab. bage. Miscellaneous — Tying up Tew trees. Netting some Coe's Golden Drop Plums. Parting some Aralias ; putting the Solannms under glass ; getting all stand plants set thinner on ashes. Washing Orchids in Dendrobinm.house ; watering all Peach trees inside. Peaches ripening fast in orchard-house, gathering every day ; putting last year's pot bulbs in baskets to dry ; pulling up some Cauliflower and putting them in cellar. Thinning autumn Carrots ; keeping floors of Cattleya-house and Lyoaste-house dry after dinner, as otherwise bulbs rot. Putting bottles up to catch wasps ; looking over Cattleyas for thrips ; tidying up flower-beds ; cleaning up land ; weeding walks. September 1. — Potting — Sohizauthus. Cuttings — Put in Cat- mint. Miscellaneous — Staking Heliotropes in pots ; getting all Chry- santhemums tied as quickly as possible. Netting Peaches. Clearing out old material from Dendrobium Wardianum with syringe, and fresh mossing it ; putting two Dendrobium Falconeri on tree Pern ; shaking out an Odontoglossum nebulosum, no live roots, re. potted in Sphagnum Moss. Shifting spring-struck tree Carnations into 48-sized pots for flowering ; putting Centaurea and also Lobelia seedlings into open pit ; putting the Strawberry plants in pots a little thinner ; shifting late Cucumbers into 10-in. pots. Syringing large Aerides with Tobaoco- water for thrips. Gathering Apricots for preserving ; also the last of the Morello Cherries and a large quantity of Apricots (ripening very rapidly and all at once) ; sending in some Kirk's Plum ; gathering Keswick and Hawthornden Apples in kitchen garden, and began in orchard ; getting autumn-sown Onions into root-room ; pulling the whole of the spring Onions. Making hot-bed on which to plunge potted Neapolitan Violets ; digging under hedges ready for Endive ; sifting gravel ; received bulbs ; finishing Cucumber ridge in first winter house; clearingout a pit for last Cucumbers ; getting manure put into heaps for another Mushroom bed. Pruning all young growth from first Vines ; cutting off lateral shoots from one-year-old pot Vines ; canes of early Vines hard and brown ; Muscats all tinged. Finishing cutting Laurels ; keeping Phalseuopsis hotter, closer, and damper in the atmosphere, but no wetter at the roots ; temperature about 80° by day, 75^ by night, and 73° in the morning, fire-heat. Sept. 2. — Potting — First Guernsey and Belladonna Lilies; got the Hollyhocks potted off ; potting Brompton Stocks, also Pinks and Carnations ; received a few Lilium auratum and most of the bulbs. Ciiiimi/s— Putting in Oxalis. Planting— A few Walcheren Cauliflowers ; some July-sown Cabbage (should plant large quantities of this sowing) ; planting 1st of August.sown Bath Cos Lettuce. Mis- ceHaiieoHS— Stakinglatest-strnck Fuchsias; tying up Asters ; putting fresh Moss to Vanda coerulea ; putting Maxillaria venusta into Lycaste- honse ; putting all Brassias into Mexioan.house in sun ; shitting latest- sown IBalsams ; watering French Beans under wall ; gathering Apples in orchard ; out-door Peaches coming in nicely ; putting some pots into a pit for Cucumber growing ; digging land for Cabbage Lettuce ; taking off young Strawberry plants ; preparing pits for first Beans, Sir J. Paxton ; wheeling some soil off Vinery border, putting a lay er of manure on it, and covering it with fresh soil ; thinning last-sown Mignonette; cutting off straggling shoots from Briers and Roses; looking for wasps' nests ; whitewashing fruit-room ; mending shades. [It is necessary to point out that many of the operations included herein were carried out in gardens in Yorkshire, &o.; our readers will, therefore, understand that some of the operations recorded may vary according to locality. The usefulness of the diary or calendar to the entire country is therefore apparent ; readers will do well to remember that the seasons may be said roughly to be ten days later in coming on and a week earlier in going off in the northern as compared with southern gardens .] THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINKS. Shanking of Grapes. — This is so of ten said to be brought about by a too wet condition of the soil, that amateurs are frequently led into the opposite extreme of keeping it too dry, a course which I believe causes more Grapes to shank than too much wet, especially during such seasons as the present, where amateurs' Vines are grown in a house that has to do duty for plants as well as Vines, and where the roots are frequently met with confined to the inside of the house, with often a portion of the floor tiled or flagged ; they are in consequence dependent for moisture upon what water is given them ; that which runs from the pot plants frequently proves deceptive, in. asmuch as it makes the surface of the soil under the stages where the roots are appear wet, when in fact it is only just moist on the tops. Now when the Grapes are ripe, or nearly so, it is desirable to keep the atmosphere reasonably dry ; but where the roots are placed in. side in the way just named, sufficient water must be given to keep the soil in a healthy state, or the leaves will not retain their vitality so long as they ought ; and this is the more necessary in the S18 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 26, 1876. case of Vines in sach honsr-s aa those nnrler consideration, by reason of the extent to which the shoota are allowed to run not being so great as where it was not needful to restiict the growth to admit light to the plants grown nnder them. Peaches. — Where these are grown under glass with their roots occnpying inside borders, they will need to be kept more moist even llian Vines as long as tbey carry their leaves, for their roots are never quite at rest. On outsido walls the black aphis is more than usually prevalent this antumn on both Peach and Cherry trees ; as soon, therefore, as it makes its appearance the trees should be well washed with Tobacco or Quassia water, or dusted with Tobacco powder. I have seen this insect, which often appears in the antumn, left upon Peaches without molestation after the fruit was gathered under the impression that, comintj so late, it could do no harm, but the premature destruction of the leaves which the fly causes has the effect of greatly diminishing both the number and strength of the flower.bnds the following rpring. Newly-planted Strawberries must be attended to wi'lh water if the weather keep dry, or they will suffer to an extent that will greatly interfere with their bearing capabilities the ensuing season. Tho same applies to Strawberries in pots. Amateurs who like to grow a little of everything they can manage in their glass-houses, and who attempt the cultivation of Strawberries in pots, may rest assured that a good deal of their success depends on the plants being plentifully supplied with water so long as they are making any growth. Place them in the full sun on slates or beards in a square as close as the pots will stand ; by this means they will protect each other from the full force of the enn, which, coming in contact with their sides whilst at all powerful, is injurioas to the roots of any plant grown in pots. Hollyhocks. — Since the disease has made such havoc amongst these, numbers of amateurs have been deterred from attempting tbeir growth, but as the fungus that is the cause of the disease can be destroyed by the use of a sulphur.impregnated wash, many will be disposed to again try these best of shrubbery border subjects. Where they are increased by cuttings these should be put in at once ; they will strike in an ordinary frame, if with a little bottom-heat all the better ; but they must not be kept too close overhead. For con- venience in moving about they are better struck singly in small pots; the soil should be moderately light and sandy. Solanums. — Plants of S. capsicastrura and S. Pseudo-capsicum should now receive sufficient water at the roots, or the berries will not swell freely. Look over them closely from time to time in order to see that the leaves do not get affected with red spider, or this pest will quickly turn them quite yellow, after which they have an uuin. viting appearance. Where they are grown through the summer in pots they need much attention in this way to keep up the deep green colour of their foliage, which will be benefited by the use of manure water once or twico a week. Salvias and Veronicas for flowering later in the season, and now set out-of-doors, will by this time have filled their pots with roots, and will require diligent attention in the way of watering; give them weak liquid stimulants twice a week ; this is the more necessary if tho pots which they occupy be small compared with tho size of the plants. All such plants are better for being plunged through the summer, for in this way they do not need so much care in water, ing, nor are they so liable to suffer if nnobservedly tho soil get a little dry. In all cases, however, whore plants are plunged, it is essential that the material in whioh they are thus placed should be such as will not harbour worms, or they will get in amongst the roots, ospocially when manure-water is nsed, for which they appear to have a particular liking, and even to strong.habited snbjects like the above they soon do serious injury. Cyclamens that have been somewhat at rest during the sum. mor, and which have now commenced growing, should be re-potted, removing all the old soil, and replacing it with new material. Sime prefer a peaty soil, others loam and leaf-mould, with some manure added in all cases, using sand enough to keep it suflioiently open ; pot moderately firm, and do not give them overmuch room — an S-inch pot will be found of sufficient size for a very large root ; after potting, put them in a frame or pit, and keep them a little close, sprinkling them overhead in the afternoons of warm days. These plants, although generally looked upon as succeeding with ordinary greenhouse temperature, are better for being kept a few degrees warmer than is usual for many greenhouse subjects. Keep n constant eyo upon them in order to seo that they do not become affected with green fly, to which they are very liable ; it gets unob- Bcryod on the under-sides of the leaves, and frequently before it is noticed so injures them as to do serious mischief to the plants, espe- cially whilst the leaves arc young. Fumigating or dipping will rid them of this insect. Moving Shrubs. — It is not nncommou in amateurs' gardens to see shrubs which at first, when small, were planted close to give immediate effect, with a view to some being thinned out as they got larger, left until they spoil each other. If, in the first instance, the work were done with judgment, those which were intended to remain permanently will have been put in such position as will afford them enough room by simply moving the others of less value, which were only put in to fill up for a time ; but it frequently happens that this course has not been followed, and that the planting has been done indiscriminately, in which case when they are grown so as to be too close, a portion has to be taken out, and many required to remain want moving mora or less from the position in which they were first planted. Where removal of this kind becomes necessary, it should be cari'ied out before the shrubs have grown into such a crowded state as to injure the whole, as frequently permitted; for, inde- pendent of the injury inflicted upon all, the longer moving is deferred, the worse condition they individually get into for removal. There is no time in the year when evergreens can be more suc- cessfully transplanted than from the end of August to the beginning of October ; but tho earlier in September tho better ; there is no necessity to wait for showery weather, not even if the soil bo apparently so dry as to contain little moisture. In fact, the heat that is in it when in this state is one of the first requisites as regards success, on account of its assisting to promote the imme- diate formation of roots ; whereas if removed late in antumn, when the temperature of both the air and earth is reduced by waning sun. heat and chilling autumn rains, all this advantage is lost. In plant' ing, however, whilst the soil is in the dry condition above described, it is imperative that every plant should be thoroughly soaked w water when it is replanted. This should not bo done by half measures ; on tho contrary, the whole of the soil that is put in round the roots down to the bottom of the hole should be effectually moistened. Where this is done the formatiou of new roots, as I have said, commences immediately, and this single thorough watering will generally be found sufficient. If any doubts be entertained aa to roots being formed immediately after planting at this season, an inspection, say a month afterwards, will soon dispel them ; for those who will take the trouble to look at the point of every root that has been severed will observe a quantity of yonng feeding fibres whioh will enable the plant to resist the most severe winter that may ensue, and ready to supply the demands made by spring growth. Each shrub, as soon as it is taken up, should be immediately re. planted, not allowing the roots to have time to dry; in this there must be no delay; indeed, this early removal is only to be recommended where shrubs can immediately be placed in the new positions assigned to them from one part of the garden or pleasure ground to another. Presuming that the surplus plants thus taken up will be again planted where more space can be found for them, ground for them should be pre. pared beforehand by sufficiently deep digging or trenching, so as to expedite the work. Greenhouses. The dry, parching winds that have prevailed of late, accompanied by bri'.liant sunshine, render it a matter of some difiicnity to keep up anything like the necessary amount of atmospheric moisture to main. tain the various kinds of plants in a healthy, growing state. While such weather continues every effort must bo made to counteract its effects as far as possible by well wetting the under part of tho stages amongst the pots, and indeed every part of the house whero water can be used without being objectionable. Much watchfulness will likewise be requisite to seo that hard-wooded plants do not become dry at tho roots, to prevent which they should now be looked over both morning and evening. Azaleas, especially, will require much attention in this respect, as they now take up great quantities of water, ond any deficiency aa regards moisture is sure to show itself in the small size ond paucity of the flowers when the season arrives for them to be produced. Where any are found to have thripson their leaves means sbonUl at once be taken to destroy them, or they will soon initiate themselves into tho points of the shoots, and cause irreparable injury to tho buds now forming. Although only a few of these pests may bo observable now, they increase at such a rapid rate if left to themselves as to soon spread over a whole houseful of plants. In cases whero these aro of largo size, so aa not to admit of being readily handled, tho best way to clear them of these destructive pests is to fumigate tho house several evenings in succession with Tobacco, choosing a still, damp time for the operation, as then the laps of the glass are closed by the wet, and the means of escape for the smoke are thus cut off. The stock of autumn and winter-flowering plants will require unremitting attention, and preparation should at once be made to got in a sowing of Mignonette to come on early ; 6-in or S-in, pots are the handiest in which to grow it. The oommon Mig. ed. »i Lud '/ Aug. 26, 1S76.] THE GARDEN. 219 nonette is a mere weed compared with auoh kinds as the Large Crimson, Parsons' New White, pyramidalis gigantoa, and others, anyoE which should be grown in preteranoe to tho above, the whole being much more robust, and producing spikes of bloom double the size of those of the old variety. Pots for Miguonette should be well drained, and over the crocks scatter a handful of fresh soot, or some pigeon manure, and then fill them up to within an inch of the top with some rough, fibry loam pressed firm. If the loam be at all dry, give a gentle watering with a fine-rosed pot, and then sow the seed regu. larly over the surface, covering the same with some finely sifted soil. The pots should then be placed where they can be protected from heavy rains, as Mignonette 13 very impatient of any excess cf moisture, especially during the earlier stages of its growth; as for instance. Just after the seeds germinate, when the whole frequently die ofi if the soil gets at all wet. Special care should therefore bo taken to prevent this by placing the pots under cover, and only giving just sufiioient water to keep the plants from flagging till they get a fair start. A pot or garden frame, where they can have full exposure, will suit them well for some time to come ; but as soon as winter sets in they should be removed to light airy shelves in the greenhouse. Ehodanthe Manglcsi is one of the most charming and useful plants it is possible to have for early spring blooming, seed of which for them to bloom at that time should be get in at once. Their lovely pink, satin.like flowers are always greatly admired, but they never show to so much advantage or get so fully appreciated as when cultivated in pots. The seed should be sown in a pan of light rich soil, which should then bo kept close under glass till they germinate. As soon as large enough to handle, prick out into 60-sized pots, placing five or six plants in each equidistant apart, after which stand them in a frame, and keep them close and shaded for a few days to give them a start. Damp is their great enemy during the winter months, and to guard against this they must be carefully supplied with water so as not to wet them overhead or keep them too moist at the root. A shelf near the glass where they can have a free circulation of air is the best place to winter them, and at the turn of the year they should be gradually shifted on into larger pots, as they require more root-room. After that time they must have a moist, growing temperature, such as an intermediate house affords, and be grown on from then without check till they attain the desired size. The tendency of Ehodanthes to produce bloom is so great that unless they are liberally treated and pushed on by giving them every encouragement both as regards rich soil and a moist, warm atmosphere before the sun bears much power, it is almost impossible to get them of sufficient size to be really effective. In shifting them on they should therefore have a small portion of thoroughly rotten manure mixed with the leaf mould and loam in which they are potted, the latter of which should bo in about equal pro. portions. By affording them a rich, stimulating soil of this kind, and giving them plenty of manure-water, 6-in. pots will be quite large enough to grow them in, a size that looks more suited to the habit of the plant than others of greater dimensions. Among fine-foliaged plants available for greenhouse or conservatory decoration Marantas should have a foremost place assigned them, as few plants are more highly prized or produce a better effect than these. They dislike sunshine or dry air, and, therefore, in arranging they should have the most favourable position that can be selected for them. Soft-wooded flowering plants, such as Balsams, Begonias, Petunias, Achimenes, Pelargoniums, &c., must not be allowed to suffer from lack of water, or they soon shed their bloom, and present a shabby appearance. The single Zonal Pelargoniums will be found to seed rather freely owing to the dry state of the atmosphere, and in order to prolong their flowering to the utmost, the whole of it should be picked off as soon aa the petals fall, as S3ed-bearing is a great tax on the plants. Stoves. Such free-flowering plants as Bongainvillea glabra, Allamandas, and plants of that class having only a limited feeding ground through being grown in pots or planted in confined spaces, should now be liberally supplied with manure-water in order to enable them to con- tinue blooming late in the autumn, a time when they will be of much more value than they are now. With such vigorous-growing plants as the above there need be no fear of exhaustion from keeping them in a flowering state too long, as with plenty of stimulating matter applied to the roots they may be had in bloom at least six months out of the twelve, and will start away again in the spring as freely as ever. A top-dressing of thoroughly decomposed manure, such as has been in use for mulching and Vine borders, may with advantage be laid over the soil so as to encourage surface roots, and obviate the necessity of having to water the plants so frequently. Gardenias. — Young growing plants of these should now have a final ehif t so as to get them thoroughly established and the pots well filled with roots before autumn sets in. Nothing suits these so well as good, rough, fibry peat, with just sufficient sand in it to keep it open and porous in order that water, of which they like large quanti. ties when growing, may pass freely through it. A pit or frame where they can be plunged in a bed of gently fermenting leaves or tan is the best place in which to grow them, as there they can be heavily syringed and shut up close early in the afternoon, a coarse of treatment that expedites growth and helps to keep them free from mealy bug, a pest to which thoy are unfortunately rather subject. Where any are infested with this troublesome pest the only remedy just now is hand-cleaning, as it will not be safe, owing to the soft state of both leaves and the tips of the shoots, to use any of the insecticides sufficiently strong to destroy them. Keep the plants well up to the light in order that the growth they make may be firm and mature, without which they do not flower at all freely. In tho case of the best Gardenias which I ever saw the lights were with, drawn during a portion of the day, and on these seldom was an insect seen, while the leaves were of that rich, shining green bo characteristic of a fine, healthy Gardenia. Antliuriunis. — No stove, however small, should be without an Anthurium or two, as few plants are more brilliant or effective than well-grown specimens of them when in bloom, or any flowers more lasting and useful in a cut state, as they may be preserved for weeks in that condition. The present is a very favourable time for repot, ting any plants of these requiring that attention. Use for this pur. pose rough lumps of fibry peat, first shaking out as much of the earthy matter as will leave by rubbing or shaking it in a sieve, after which add nearly the same bulk of Sphagnum and a little charcoal broken moderately small with a dash of silver sand to keep the whole porous and open. The pots for their reception should be well drained by placing a small inverted pot at the bottom to cover the hole, and then they should be nearly half filled with clean crocks. This pre. paration is of the greatest importance, for, although Anthnrinms will take and require almost unlimited quantities of water, they dislike stagnant moisture, which soon causes their roots to rot, or renders the soil in such a sour state, that they will not lay hold of it. In potting keep the plants well up above the rims of the pota, so as to form a mound rising 2 in, or 3 in., according to the size of the plants to be potted. Begonias of the winter-flowering class, such as B. nitida, B. insig. nis, B. manicata, and others, if required of large size, should at once have a shift, in order that they may finish their principal growth while there is plenty of sun to harden it. All such soft-wooded plants aa these require as much light as can be given them from this time on. wards, and they may therefore be placed with advantage on shelves, or other positions close to the glass, where they must be well looked after as regards water, of which Begonias of the above type can scarcely at this season have too much, especially if confined to small pots. Where this is the case they should have liquid manure at least twice a week, which will keep the leaves as good in colour and assist the plants in producing a fine head of bloom. Table Plants. — Where small subjects are in request for table decoration early in summer, no better or more striking plants can be had for the purpose than some of the Nidulariums, snch as N. f ulgena and N. splendens, which, from their dwarf, compact character, and the brilliant colour of their central leaves, are particularly adapted for the purpose. As these will now have ceased blooming, and will have lost much of their colour, the old plants should be discarded aa soon as suckers can be obtained, which they produce freely at their sides. These should be slipped off with as much of the old stem adhering to them as can fairly be got, and after pruning the ragged part away at the bottom, tbey should be inserted in 6-in. pots, bury, ing the stems up to the bottom leaves ; if kept close they will soon root, and form plants by next season quite equal in every respect to those from which they were taken. Being epiphytal in character, the pota must be well drained, and the soil used should be rough and porons, such as lumps of fibry peat, with plenty of sand to keep it open. The elegantly.marked Tillandsia zebrina and T. musaica are equally valuable for the same purpose ; the latter especially is a singularly beautiful plant that ought to be in every stove. The leaves are about 1 ft. long and 2 in. wide, the ground colour being pale yellowish-green, marked or veined irregularly across with rich dark veins on both the upper and under side, the latter being of a dullish red colour. Tillandsias are plants of easy cultivation, reqnir. ing much the same treatment as to soil, potting, watering, &c., aa the Nidulariums, which they resemble in habit. .Slchmeas. — These are also a useful clasa of plants, which, throwing up, aa they do, their flower-stems well above the leaves, are valuable aa decorative plants. From their comparatively hardy nature, they will stand a long time when in bloom in the conservatory or other cool house, where they are sure to form very oonspiououa 220 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 26, 1876. objects. The side shoota or suctera of these will now be in a fit state to separate from the parent plants ; they shoald be slipped off or divided in the same way as is recommended for the Nidulariums, and they should bo potted and treated in a similar manner. Billbergias. — As flowering plants, nothing can exceed the beauty of some of these, especially the variety called B. Moreliana, a kind which produces its blooms in the freest manner possible during March and April, a time when such brilliant colours are exceedingly valuable. Unlika most of the Billbergias, the flower. spikes of B. Moreliana, instead of being very erect, droop gracefully over, hanging clear from the centre of the sucker producing them from 1 ft. to li ft. in length, so that when the plant is elevated by being set on a bracket or inverted pot, or suspended in a basket, it produces a striking effect, as do also the long spikes of bloom when cut and placed in tall vases, so as to depend over their sides. Those who are not already in pos- session of this Billbergia should not fail to add it to their collections, as it is a plant that is sure to give satisfaction. Any of these Brome- liaceous plants obtained now will most likely be in a fit state to receive a shift ; well drain the pots, and use rough lumpy peat and loam for the purpose, with just sufficient sand to keep it open and porous. None of the above-named plants care for much pot room ; fresh aweet-oil and plenty of drainage being of more importance than a large quantity, which is more apt to become stagnant and sour, conditions under which they soon lose their roots, and of course get into bad health. When potted they must be grown freely on by keeping them in a moist atmosphere, where they can have plenty of heat. Aphelandra cristata and A. Boezli are both useful winter- blooming plants, which should now receive a shift or be well fed with liquid manure, i.e., if in pots sufficiently large already, and well filled with roots ; watch closely for mealy bug, which is sure to attack them if there be any in the house. They are likewise very subject to red spider, which must ba guarded against by frequent Byringings, and growing the plants in an atmosphere well saturated with moisture. They must, however, have plenty of light, which may now be more freely admitted to most stove plants by affording less shade, in order to thoroughly mature the growth they are now making, without which but little bloom will be produced. Coleuses. — These may be grown up so quickly that it it is never worth while wintering any but very small plants or cuttings of them, which should now be put in for that purpose. They will strike readily in any shady place in the stove under bell-glasses or hand- lights, put on to keep the air from them for a few days, when they can either be potted off singly, or kept in their cutting pots on a light shelf till the turn of the year. Caladiums. — The earliest started plants of these should now be permitted to go gradually to rest by only giving them water occa- sionally at the roots. It is the practice with some to keep these slightly growing through the winter, but it is not to be recommended, as they never start in the vigorous way which they do when dried off and allowed to go completely to rest. Balsams. — Push on the last batch of these by closing early, after giving them a good syringing ; and, in order to keep them dwarf and stocky, they should be kept thin and well up to the glass, 60 as to admit plenty of light amongst them. Such sportive plants as Balsams are sure to show great variety both iu the colour, size, and quality of the flowers ; and to keep up a high standard of excel- lence with these, it is necessary to make selections of the best and most distinct, to be set away from the others for the purpose of bear- ing seed. If the flowers be so double as not to produce seed freely, remove a few of the inner petals, and fertilise the stigmas by hand, using a camel-hair brush for the purpose. Any choice stove plants in the conservatory should now be watched as the nights lengthen and grow colder, and if any show the least signs of distress they should at once be removed to warmer quarters. Such subjects, however, as Allamandas, Stephanotis, Bougainvillcas, Dratajnas, and the more hardy varieties, may with safety be left for at least another month to come, unless the weather should set in unusually cold, or the plants stand in an unfavourable position. — J. SiiKi'i'Anu, Woolverstonc Park. Orchids. Since it has become known that the Now Granada OJontoglossnms succeed best in a comparatively cool temperature, many have thought that the wholo genua Odontoglossum is hardier than it really is ; although all Odontoglossuma will succeed in a cool temperature when at rest, those that have not completed their growth when autumn sets in will not bear much cold. The term Odontoglossum.houso is interpreted by many to mean a house in which the wholo of the Odontoglossnms may be grown together all the year round, but the low temperature which is maintained in that house renders it unfit for some varieties in autumn and winter, and if the temperature be raised to suit these it would be unfit for the kinds that come from New Granada. The amateur should, therefore, make himself acquainted with the native habitat of each variety, its time of grow- ing, &c., and so manage it that it has the requisite amount of heat until its growth is finished, be it at whatever time of year it may. As a rule the whole of the Odontoglossuma will thrive well together in a cool-house during the summer months, and keep cleaner than if they had been kept warmer ; but on going over them at this season many of the Guatemalan and Mexican varieties will be found which have not nearly finished their growth, and these should be removed to the Cattleya-house until their pseudo-bulbs are matured, so as to ensure good flowering growth. The following is a list of some of the leading kinds of OJontoglosaums, which would be benefited by a higher autumn and winter temperature than that given to the New Granada varieties, viz. : — 0. hastilabium, 0. Krameri, 0. pulchellura, 0. grando, 0. Insleayi, 0. Schleiperianum, 0. Rossi, 0. membranaceum, 0. Bictonienae, 0. Uro-Skinneri, 0. Phalasnopsis, 0. Roezli, 0. vexillarium, 0. Warscewiczi, O. Eeichen- heimi, 0. nebulosum, O.cordatum, and 0. maoulatum. These thrive better in a higher autumn and winter temperature than those of the 0. Alexandrco class and others from high elevations, and which at all times live in a drier atmosphere ; they are very impatient of stag- nant moisture, and do not like to be syringed. The New Grauada Odontoglossuma ahould still be freely supplied with water ; indeed, they should not be allowed at any time to get quite dr in. to 4 in. long, broadly obo- vate, deeply lobed, sometimes pinnatifid, underneath stellate- pubescent ; the broad lobes obtuse or retuse, often again two or three lobed. They bear middle-sized or small oval Acorns in more or less knobby hemispherical cups. Scattered copses of those broad-leaved Oaks, often of a beautiful brownish- purple in September, accompany us to within a few hundred yards of the top of the canon, but here the character of these shrubs changes : the bushes are lower, the leaves smaller and in outline narrower, the lobes narrower and mostly undivided, but still obtuse. Now we near the precipice itself ; from the ragged, dizzy edge we here and there get a glimpse, through the inaccessible gorge, of the young Arkansas, whose clear green waters toss and foam 1200 ft. or 1500 ft. under us, rushing towards the plains. The Oak bushes accompany us even here, but now they are only from 4 ft. to 6 ft. high, with leaves 2 in. long, ovate-lanceolate in outline, no longer lobed, but coarsely dentate, the acute teeth terminating in a sharp point ; the Acorns are scarcely different from those noticed before. A few steps more and we have reached the brink of the preci- pice itself: Oak bushes here too, but only 3 ft. or 4 ft. high, with small (1 in. long), oval, firm, almost cartilaginous, semi- persistent, spiny-toothed leaves, here and there with only very few teeth or quite entire ; the Acorns proportionately smaller, of the same short, oval shape, or often elongated from an un- usually small, scarcely knobby, and sometimes poduncled cup. "VVe feel satisfied that we might have abundant material to characterise several distinct species, certainly four or five well- marked forms, and, indeed, they have been considered such. The first is Nuttall's Quercus Gambelii (Q. stcllatn., var. Utah- ensis, D. C. Prod.) ; the second is Q. alba, var. Gunnisoni of Torrey ; the third, with acutish lobes or coarse teeth, is Torrey's old Q. undulata of Long's Expedition, the first Oak obtained from these mountains, and described about fifty years ago ; the fourth, from the edge of the precipice itself, is what has often been mistaken for Torrey's Q. Emoryi, or ■what has been named Q. pungens, Liebm., in part; with it occur entire-leaved forms which seem to unite with this as a fifth form the Q. oblongifolia, of thesame author,and Q.grisea, Liebm. As a large and broad-leaved south-eastern form some- •what allied to Q. Gambelii I consider Q. Drummondi, Liebm. In herbarium specimens they all appear distinct enough, but, looking around us, the very abundance of material must shake our confidence in our discrimination : within the compass of a few hundred yards wo find not only the forms above distin- guished, but numbers of others which arc neither the one nor the other, but which are intermediate between them and clearly unite them all as forms of one single extremely poly- morphous species. If one Oak behaves thus, why not others ? Thrown into a sea of doubt, what can guide us to a correct knowledge H Though Oaks are so common, and such well-studied plants, T venture in the following pages to repeat old observations, in order to combine with them some which I think are new, and which will help to throw a little more light on the subject. The trunk — its bark as well as its wood — is what we first contemplate, and this at once takes us to one of the principal points I wish to discuss. That the trunk is that of a large, sometimes one of the largest, or of a middle-sized tree, or occa- sionally that of a shrub, oven a very low one, is well known. On the Atlantic slope of the continent most species of Oaks make trees, and only a few arc known as shrubs ; I can now recall not more than one species, the Live Oak of the south, which occurs in both forms : usually an immense tree, it occa- sionally bears a rich harvest of fruit as one of the smallest bushes. But it is different on the Pacific slope; there we find many Oaks as trees in the lower countries, and as shrubs, usually with smaller foliage and smaller fruit in the mountains. The lesser number of Oaks seem to occur solely in one or in the other of these forms. Examining the bark we at oiice become aware of the fact that the popular distinction of White Oaks and Black Oaks is based on correct observation. The paler, ashy-gray bark of the former, and the darker, often nearly black, colour of the latter correspond, as will be shown, with other essenti'al characters, and well mark the two principal groups of our American Oaks. The bark of the White Oaks is inclined to be scaly or flaky, that of the Black Oaks is usually rougher, and deeply cracked and furrowed. The wood of the White Oaks is tougher, heavier, and more compact — the only Oak wood which is fit to be used by the wheelwright or cooper, and is for their purposes unsurpassed. The wood of the Black Oaks is brittle and porous, makes poorer firewood, and made into barrels holds only dry substances. Undoubtedly the microscopical investigation of both classes of Oak wood will scientifically establish and confirm these distinctions. While many other trees, such as Pines, Walnuts, Hickories, Gledit- schia, &c., grow rapidly in the first decades of their life, and make narrower and narrower annual rings as they grow older, the Oaks either hold their own, the annual rings being as wide in ago as they are in youth, or they grow more rapidly after the first 100 or even 1.50 years of their existence. The winter buds, especially the terminal ones, show some charac- teristic differences ; they arc larger or smaller, acute or obtuse, sraoothish, or hairy, or tomentose ; Quercus Garryana can bo readily distinguished from all the allied Californian Oaks by its large, pointed, tomentose winter buds. In the leaves, so extremely variable in form, certain types are generally recognized. It is not here the place to expatiate on these well-known topics, but I may be allowed the observa- tion that those Oaks, which in the perfect state have decply- lobed or piunatifid leaves, show in young shoots, or on adven- titious branchlets, less divided or only dentate, sinuate, or even entire leaves (f. ;/. Q. alba, stellata, falcata, coccinea, palustris, &c.), while, singularly enough, the Oaks, whose leaves in the adult tree are entire or nearly so, often have on the young shoots dentate or lobed leaves. For examples 1 need only refer to Q. aquatica, Q. Phellos, and Q. virens, and even Q. nigra belongs liero. The vsrnation of the Oak leaves has sometimes been mentioned as couduplicate, meaning that the upper sides of both halves of the nascent leaf are applied together, and this really is the case with most Oaks ■nhich 1 have been able to examine at this early stage. Wo fintl it both in White and Black Oaks — almost always, I believe, in those with broad and deeply-lobed leaves ; I mention only Q. alba, macrocarpa, and Garryana, Q. coccinea and palustris, and also the forms allied to Q. Prinus, even those with narrower, dentate leaves. In the more deeply-lobed, broad-leaved Black Oaks, the two halves of the leaf ai'e, besides, plicate parallel with the principal nerves. Next to these range the Oaks with the young loaves con- cave and imbricately covering one another. Such wo find in Q. stellata of the first, and Q. nigra of the second group, both with densely tomentose, thick, young leaves. In other Oaks, mostly such as have broader and more or less entire leaves, the young leaves imbricativoly cover one another like those last mentioned, but are convex on the upper side, with the edges turned down or back. Such is the case in Q. ciucrea, Atra. 26, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 223 myrtifolia, agrifolia, aquatica, chrysolepis; and, I believe, also in Q. undulata, and in Q. Wislizeni ; I find the same to be the case in the deeply-lobed Q. falcata. The narrow-leaved Oaks of both sections have revolute young leaves, the halves being spirally rolled backwards towards the midrib, so that only the upper side of the leaf is exposed; the point of the young leaf is somewhat spreading so that the branohlet has a squarrose appearance, while in those with imbricative vernation it is compact. I find the revolute leaf in Q. virens, pumila, Phellos, heterophylla, and imbricaria. In Q. CatesbEei I observe an inflexed vernation, the long bristle-pointed lobes of the nascent leaf being curved down over the still younger one. I believe that the characters of vernation will not only help to distin- guish allied species or doubtful varieties, but will also assist in unravelling the intricate questions of hybridity. The young leaves of almost every Oak are coated with a dense stellate down, which in some (Q. alba, Q. rubra, &3.), is early deciduous, or it disappears later, or is entirely persistent. Besides these stellate, one-celled hairs, several species, those with a clammy feeling of the young leaf, have another kind of hair, single or a few stel- lately connected, consisting of several cells, obtuse or clavate, sometimes branched and often coloured, apparently glandular. I notice these articulate hairs, among the "White Oaks, in Q. stellata, and less conspicuously in Q. macrocarpa; among the Black Oaks, in Q. nigra, myrtifolia, cinerea, falcata, aquatica, and laurifolia ; in Q. chrysolepis the characteristic "golden scales "are no scales, but consist entirely of such articulated yellow hair, and the young Q. Catesbtei has the same rusty coating. The venation and more or less distinct reticulation of the leaves also present characters not to be neglected ; by them, e.g. two easily confounded Califoniian Oaks, Q. agrifolia and Q. Wislizeni, can readily be distinguished even in sterile branchlets. The persistence of the leaves is a good character in some species, while in others it is unreliable ; Q. pumila and Q. laurifolia on the eastern and Q. agrifolia on the western coast sometimes retain their leaves until the new ones are fully developed, and other specimens, even in the same neighbourhood, lose them before the buds swell ; some have deciduous leaves northward and partly persistent ones southward. The broad-leaved forms of Q. undulata are decidedly deciduous, while those with small, coriaceous, spiny- tootbed leaves retain them through part of the winter, or, towards their south-western limit, even into summer. Only such Oaks ought be called evergreen which retain the greater part of their old leaves, at least until the new ones are fully grown ; the leaves of some Oaks persist even into the third year. The male flowers are important for the diagnosis of some species, and to some extent even for the grouping of them. I pass by the form and pubescence of the bracts and of the calyx- lobes as well as the pubescence of the anthers (among all our Oaks only observed in Q. stellata and Q. virens) ; even the sometimes present cusp or point of the anthers seems to be of less value, because variable in some species. Of greater importance is the size and the mimber of the anthers. The smaller and more numerous (usually from five to eight or even ten, rarely only four) occur in the White Oaks, while in the Black Oaks the anthers are usually larger and fewer, as a rule only four, in some species as many as five or six ; only in Q. agrifolia, which also shows other abnormal characters, six to eight stamens are the rule, and sometimes ten are found. The pollen-grains of both groups have a diameter of about O'OS mm. In numerous flowers of a certain tree of Q. nigra I have seen abortive pistils with prominent filiform styles — singularly enough always two, where we might have expected three. In flowers of Q. agrifolia the connective of the anthers was seen to elongate, the cells to dwindle down and finally to disappear. The female flowers furnish valuable characters to distinguish the principal groups of our Oaks. The pistil consists nor- mally of three carpels and three stigmas ; not rarely four occur, and in some Californian species (Q. agrifolia and Wis- lizeni) I have repeatedly seen as many as five. The stigmas in our species are dilated, retuse, or emarginate ; in the White Oak group they are sessile, or rarely (and that sometimes in the same species) borne on short, more or less erect, styles ; in the Black Oaks we always find them on longer, patulous, or recurved styles. A group of White Oaks with biennial fruc- tification, peculiar to Southern Europe and Eastern Asia, the best known representatives of which are Q. Cerris, Q. Pseudo- suber, and Q. occidentalis, differs from all these by their pitu- lous or recurved styles bearing ligulate, acutish stigmas. As the stigmas are measurably persistent, we often recognise this difference even in the mature fruit. The fruit exhibits the most important characters in tbe period of its maturation, first noticed by Michaux, and especially in the position of the abortive ovules, the beautiful discovery of A. De Gandolle. But before I speak of these I must allude to the position of the fruit on the branch. It is single, or clus- tered in the axils of the leaves or their scars, sessile, or more or less peduncled. In the Black Oaks the peduncle is short or missing, but in the White Oaks it is sometimes several inches in length ; its presence, however, is of very little specific value, as in many species either sessile or peduncled Acorns are found. In some Oaks this feature is connected with slight differences in the length of the petiole or the shape of the leaf; the dis- tinction between the European Q. Kobur and Q. pedunculata is based on such differences, and we have an analogous diiierence in our Q. alba, where, at least here in the Mississippi Yalley, the form with deeply-pinnatifid leaves has usually peduncles as long or little shorter than the Acorn, and the other form with more broadly-lobed leaves has shorter peduncles or sessilo fruit, but sometimes we find sessile and peduncled fruit on the same tree. Some White Oaks have always sessile or nearly sessile Acorns, as Q. stellata, while Q. bicolor always bears them on long peduncles. The Acorns mature either in one season or in two, and, generally speaking, we find the annual maturation among the White Oaks, and the biennial maturation in the Black Oaks, but the ex- ceptions to this rule prove that this peculiarity isnot necessarily connected with the essential characters of the two groups. We have one western White Oak, Q. chrysolepis, with biennial fruit, and three Black Oaks with annual maturation, Q. pumila of the east, and Q. agrifolia and Q. hypoleuca of the west. The biennial maturation is easily recognized in the Oaks with decid- uous leaves ; the tree is never without younger or older fruit, or, from May to December, with both ; the older Acorns are then seen on the older, leafless part of the branchlet, and the young, incipient ones on the j'ounger, leafy part. In Oaks with persistent leaves some difficulty may arise from the pecu- liarity that the branchlets which had fiowered the previous year, and are now maturing the fruit, often in the second year do not elongate, or make new leaves or new wood — in short, do not perform any function but the maturation of the fruit. In this case the fruit is found near the end of the branchlet, absolutely as if it wore an annual fruit; but the appearance of the leaves, as well as of the epidermis of the branch, proves them to be over a year old, and wherever a new shoot of the present year can be discovered, the difference between this and those of the last year easily solves any doubts. In Q. chryso- lepis this peculiarity is quite striking ; very rarely (at least, in the herbarium specimens examined by me) the fruit-bearing branchlets elongate and again bear flowers, which is the rule in our deciduous biennial Oaks. The cup of the Acorn, an involucral organ, is, in all our species, covered with imbricated scales, appendicular organs which simulate bud-scales, and even occasionally seem to assume a pseudo-phyllotactic arrange- ment. In the Black Oaks these scales are membranaceous and never thickened at base ; in the White Oaks, on the contrary, they sometimes have herbaceous tips, and, at least, the outer and lower ones are always more or less thickened, inflated, or knobby at base ; they are very thick, e.g. in Q. alba and lobata, and very slightly thickened in Q. stellata and Garryana ; in Q. macrocarpa they are herbaceously tipped. The shell of the Nut or Acorn is thinner in the White Oaks and thicker in the Black Oaks ; a much more important and striking character is, that in the former its inside is dark, smooth, and even shining, or rarely pubescent, and in the latter densely silky-tomentose, a difference which, I believe, is constant. Only one of the six ovules of the Oak ovary is developed, while the five others persist as small but distinctly recognisable oval, dark-coloured, pendulous bodies, outside of the seed-coat, in the White Oaks at the base of the perfect seed, in the Black Oaks just below its tip. Only in one of our 224 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 26, 1876. species, Q. chrysolepis, are they intermediate or lateral, in some Acorns almost basal, and in others scattered over the side from near the base to two-thirds up. De Candolle has observed the same in the Cork Oak of Europe and in some Mexican White Oaks. The Black Oaks, with annual fructification, have these ovules always suspended near the tip of the seed, and are in this respect undistinguishable from the regularly biennial Black Oaks. It is well known that in the south- eastern Live Oak, both Cotyledons ax'e united in one mass — ■ a singular but isolated fact which has no systematic signi- ficance. In the foregoing remarks I have purposely left aside the very peculiar Californian Q. densiflora, which is in every respect different from the other Oaks, and thus far the sole representative of a peculiar group named by De Candolle An- drogyne. In many respects it is more a Chestnut than an Oak, for it has, just like the Chestnuts, the same dense- flowered, erect male spikes, ten stamens to each flower, very small anthers on long filiform filaments, with very small pollen-grains (0'017 mm. in diam., not much more than half as large as in other Oaks), and in the female flowers slender, terete, pointed stigmas, grooved above. In place of the spiny involucre of the Chestnut our plant has a spiny cup, and is thus made an Oak and not a Chestnut. The maturation is biennial. The shell of the Nut is thicker and harder than in any other of our Oaks, the inside thickly tomentose, and the abortive ovules are found near the top of the seed. The wood is brittle and worthless. It results from these investigations that our Oaks, leaving again aside the one last mentioned, arrange themselves into two great groups, often alluded to above as the White Oaks and the Black Oaks. The White Oaks are characterised by paler, often scaly, bark, tougher and denser wood, and sessile or sub-sessile stigmas, and bear the abortive ovules at the base or rarely on the side of the perfect seed. Besides this, the leaves and their lobes or teeth are obtuse, never bristle-pointed, though some- times spinous-tipped ; their stamens are more numerous, the scales of the cup more or less knobby at base, the inner sur- face of the Nut glabrous or (rarely) pubescent; the fruit generally matures in the first year. The Black Oaks have dark, furrowed bark, brittle and porous wood, styles long and spreading or recurved, abortive ovules always near the tip of the perfect seed. The leaves and their lobes are bristle-pointed, at least in youth ; lobes and teeth acute ; teeth sometimes spinous. Their stamens are usually less numerous, the scales of their cup membranaceous, the inner surface of their nut always tomentose ; the fruit gene- rally matures in the second year. We may then arrange our Oaks in the following order : — I.— Lepidobalanus (Endl.) Male catkin pendent ; pollen grains 0.03-0.0 Ji in diameter ; male and female flowera sepai'ated ; stigmas dilated. A. Lkucoiulanus. — Abortive ovnlea inferior and rarely lateral ; stamens generally 6-8; stigmas sessile or sab-sesaile; the Acoru glabrous, or rarely pubeacent. * Annual. — Acorn glabrous ; abortive ovules inferior. t Deciduous. Q. lyrata (1), macrocarpa (2), alba, lobata, atellata, Garryana, bicolor, Miohauxi (3), Prinua (4), prinoidea, Donglaai, nndulata (5). t t Evergreen. Q. dnmoaa (6), Emoryi (7), reticulata (8), virena (9). ** Biennial. — Acorn pubescent j abortive ovules inferior or later.al ; leaves evergreen. Q. chrysolepis (10). B. Mkl.-vnobalanus. — Abortive ovules superior ; stamena generally 4-6; stylea elongated and slightly curved j Acorn ailky. tomentose. * Annual. — Leaves persistent or sub-persistent. Q. agrifolia (11), hypoleuoa (12), pumila (13). ** Biennial, t Deciduous. Q. paluatris, rubra, Sonomenaia, coccinea (14), ilioifolia, Georgiaua Cateabaji, falcata, nigra, cinerea (15), aqnatica, laurifolia (16), hete- rophylla (17), imbricaria, Phelloa. t t Evergreen. Q. Wislizeni (18), myrtifolia (19). Androgyne (A. de 0.). Male catkin erect, bearing female flowersat the base ; pollen graliia about 0.017 mm. in diameter; stigmas linear. Q. densiflora. Notes. 1. Qaeroua lyrata (Walt.) extends as far north as Taxodium does to the banks of the Lower Ohio in Illinois. 2. Q. macrocarpa (Jliehx.) ia extremely variable in the size of its Acorns, and especially in the depth and margin of its oup, which aometimea covers the Acorn scarcely one-half, usually three.fonrths, and occaaionally entirely ; the margin is profusely or sparsely fringed. Throughout the north-west, north of the Miesonri River, a low, scrubby form ia found, which might be designated aa var. depressa, as it is undoubtedly the obtusiloba (b) depressa (Nutt. gen. 2, 215) which haa smaller leavea and much smaller Aoorna than the species, but is clearly a form of macrocarpa. 3. Q. Miohauxi. — This plant is distinguished by having the leaves obtuse, or mostly cordate, at base ; thicker, more leathery, and tomen- tose on the lower side, and the male flowera ten-androus. All the forms of Prinna proper have a very deciduona pabeacence on the lower aide of the leaf, which is acute or acutiah at base. The figure of Michaux, quoted by Nuttall, refers to Q. bicolor, and none of his figures represent our plant. Elliott adopts Nuttall'a name, but Chapman, an well aa Da Candolle, consider it a form of Prinua. Q. Prinus was described by Linnoeus with foliis obovatia utrinque acnminatis, which snSiciently well agrees with all the forms of Prinua proper. 1. Q. Prinus (Liu.) would then comprise Michaux's varieties, paluatris, monticola, and acuminata. 5. Q. nndulata (Torr.) has been treated of in the introduction to thia paper ; the different forms, there also enumerated are — (a) Gambeli (Q. Gambeli, Nutt., and probably Q. Drummondi, Liebm.) j (b) Gunnisoni (Q. alba, var. Gunnisoni, Torrey) ; (c) Jamesi, Torrey's original plant, figured in Ann Lyo. N.Y. 2, t. 4 ; the original figure reproduced with slight alterations in Nut';air3 N. Am. Sylv. 1, t. 3 ; (d) Wrighti, often couufounded with Q. Emoryi, and appa- rently one of the forma comprised by Liebmann in hia Q. pnngens. Q. oblongifolia, Torr., and Q. grisea, Liebm., seem to be forms with more or less entire leaves; or the latter may perhaps have to be referred to the Mexican Q. microphylla. 6. Q. dumoaa. — A shrub of the southern part of California, often very aquarrose, aometimea with slender and erect branches ; leavea oval, obtuse, often cordate or obtuse at base, spinous-dentate or some- times entire, dark green above, hoary tomentose or pubescent below, from :f in. to ;} in. or sometimes 1 in. long ; fruit sessile ; cup strongly tuberenlate, black, between 2 lines and 6 lines in diameter ; Acorn large for the size of the plant, oval, or small and narrow. Nutt., N. Am. Sylv. 1, p. 7; Torrey, Bot. Mex. Bound., p. 207. Q. acutidens, Torr. ib. tab. 51, ia a larger form of the same. Q. berberidifolia, Liebm., Da Prod. 16, 2, p. 36, seem to belong here either entirely or at least in part. 7. Q. Emoryi. — This pretty Arizonian species was collected by Emory in 1816, and soon afterwards by Wright, and then not again until Dr. Rothrock, a year or two ago, brought back fine specimens from Lieut. Wheeler's Expedition. The leaves are not roundish or oval and pale aa in Wrighti, but lanceolate, cordate at base, and dark green ; the Acorns in all the specimena aeen by mo are aessile, the bright brown scales of the cup only slightly thickened at base. Torr. Emory Rep. 1818, p. 151, t. 9, Q. hastata, Liebm. Quite dis. tinct from Q,. nndulata var. Wrighti, which is often confounded with it; the Acorna of Torrey's figure belong to that form of nndnlata. 8. Q. reticulata (H. B. K.) haa been found in Southern Arizona by Dr. Rothrock in the expedition ji:8t metioned. 9. Q. virena (Ait.). — A shrubby form is var. maritima, Chapm., Q. maritima, Willd., from which var. dentata, Chapm., cannot be separated ; both have shorter, and often larger Acorns, on shorter peduncles than the species ; the former is the larger shrub, rarely aa much as 10 ft. high, with usually entire lanceolate leaves ; the latter often bears fruit when only 1 ft. to IJ ft. high; leavea sometimes dentate or sinuate.dentato, 1 in. to 2 iu. long ; vigorous ground shoots occaaionally produce broad oval, entire, or dentate leaves. 3 in. to t in. long, and IJ in. to 2V in. wide. 10. Q. ehryaolopia (Liebm.) haa ao often been spoken of that little need bo added. Ita fructification waa miaunderstood until the abundant material, brought together by Profesaor W. H. Brewer for tho California State Survey, permitted me to clear it up. The aize of tho plant, of tho leaves, and of the fruit, ia extremely variable, and even tho yellow pubescence, which has given it its name, is neither persistent, nor is it preaent in all oases. Young, vigoroua shoots or young trees have spiny-dentate leavea ; older trees, especially on fertile br.anches, usually entire ones. The .■Vcorns are sometimes very large and tho shallow cup extremely thick ; thia is the form Torrey (Pacif. R.R. Rep. v. 365, tab. 9) has described as Q. crassipocula; Dr. Parry sends from San Bernardino still larger eupa, 1] in. in the outer diameter. Dr. Kellogg's Q. fulveacena in Proc. Calif. Ao. 1, 67 and 71, seems (from specimens Aug. 26. 1876.] THE GARDEN. 225 seen in. Hb. Brewer) to refer to the form with middle-sized Acorng, and cups of the ordinary shape, without that nnuaual thickening ; his Q. vacciniifolia, ib. 1, 96 (106 ed. 2), is a small-leaved monntain form. Of this variety specimens are foand entirely destitute of the yellow, scurfy pubescence, even in the earliest youth. The anthers of this species, usually ten in number, are always strongly pointed ; the broad stigmas are closely sessile. The lateral position of the ovules has been mentioned.' 11. Q. agrifolia. Nee, the first' western Oak that became known (1802), is quoted by the fiuthor as inhabiting Nootka Sound and California, perhaps by mistske, as now it does not seem to be known much north of the Bay of San Francisco, and it extends as far south as the southern boundary of the State, but does not ascend the mountains. It is a fine, large, almost evergreen tree, but makes miserable timber and even poor firewood. The old leaves partially fall off in winter, so that the heads begin to look less dense towards spring ; in some trees the last leaves have fallen before the young ones are developed, but generally they do not come off entirely before the young verdure covers the branches. Dr. Bolander remarks that occasionally odd-looking trees are observed which in spring retain all their old leaves without bringing forth flowers or young shoots — a state of things which resembles the condition of Q. chrysolepis, above alluded to ; that species performs the function of maturing its fruit, though it bears no young leaves, while in this case there would be in spring an almost absolute winter.like stagnation of the vegetation. It has certainly an annual fructification, but is in every respect, except in the number of the large stamens (six to eight, and often more), a regular Black Oak. The Acorn is always long-pointed, whence the name Torrey gave it, Q. oxyadenia (Sitgr. Eep. tab. 17), is not inappropriate. A southern variety of this species is shrubby, with smaller leaves, occasionally pubescent, and with smaller but very abundant fruit. Prom the often very similar Q. Wislizeni it can, even without fruit, always be distinguished by the dull, pale upper surface of the leaves, which is usually convex, and by the absence of reticulation on it. 12. Q. hypolenca I name an Arizona Oak which Torrey, in Mex. Bound. Kep., p. 207, refers to Q. confertifolia, H.B.K., a species with biennial fructification and slightly pubescent leaves. Our plant is characterised, besides its annual Acorns, by lanceolate, thick leaves, with revolute margins, and a white, tomentose lower surface. The five-lobed calyx is scarcely hairy, and bears four stamens ; no bracts seen even before the flowers open. 13. Q. pumila (Walt. Fl. Carol., p. 234 ; Michx. Sylv., tab. 17, where the fruit is erroneously represented as biennial, otherwise the figure is good). — This interesting shrub, though first described nearly a con. tnry ago, has only, through the efforts of Dr. J. H. Mellichamp, become properly known in the last few years. Living in the imme- diate vicinity of its habitat, the Pine barrens of the low country of South Carolina, this acute observer has aided me in the most liberal manner in studying this as well as other difficult Oaks of that region. Q. pumila is called the Running Oik, because, by the aid of its wide.spreading stolons, it covers large patches, sometimes acres with its thickets. It is often, especially where kept down by the frequent fires, only 1 ft. to. 2 ft. high, and has been seen loaded with flowers when only of 6 in. ; in other localities it grows from 8 ft. to 10 ft. high, with stems 1 in. in diameter. The leaves, revolute in vernation are nsually about 2 in. long, lanceolate, entire, and often undulate, only occasionally dentate.lobed but in vigorous shoots, sometimes broad ovate and deeply and acutely lobed ; another form has obovate, obtuse leaves. They are slightly pubescent when young, but soon become quite glabrous, persist through the winter and occasionally beyond the flowering period. In the male flowers I find pretty regularly four stamens, and in the female three long, recurved styles. The globose fruit in its shallow cup is nearly sessile in the axils of the same year's leaves. Q. pumila, Walt. Michx. Sylv., Nutt. gen., ■Elliott Flor. ; Q. Phellos var. pumila, Mich. Qaero. and Flor.; Q. cinerea var. pumila, Chapm., A. De Cand. Prod. Var. sericea has similar narrow, or larger, ovate-lanceolate leaves, always silky-white underneath'; the larger leaves on fertile branches grow over 4 in. long by H in. in width,' and on sterile shoots even larger. Q. sericea, Willd., Pnrsh. j Q. Phellos var. sericea. Ait. The leaves of the glabrous form resemble those of Phellos, and of the silky variety those of cinerea, and;|without the fruit they could not well be distinguished from some forms of them. 14. Q. coocinea (Wang.). — I have, with some hesitation, followed De Candolle and Gray in uniting with this species Q. tiactoria, Bart., which has broader, less-lobed, and firmer leaves, and a deep yellow coloured inner bark ; but I suspect speciflo differences may yet be discovered. 15. Q. cinerea (Michx.).— In specimens from South Carolina I find, together with the ordinary stellate pubescence, an abundance of yellow, articulated hair on the young leaves, while in flowering Texan specimens it seems to be entirely wanting. 16. Q. laurifolia (Michx.) appears'after all to be distinct from Q. aquatica ; whether entire or lobed, the leaves of the latter have a cuneate out-line widest in the upper third or at least above the middle; the calyx-lobes are larger and very conspicuous, and the filaments enclosed and only the anthers exsert. Q. laurifolia has lanceolate, oblong leaves, widest about the middle whether entire or lobed ; the calyx-lobes are much smaller ; the filaments exsert ; this in flowering specimens of both species from Bluffton, the only ones which I could compare. A specimen from the Gulf Coast of Missis, sippi has oval, entire, coriaceous leaves 4 in. long and IJ in. wide, while those of my South Carolina plants are narrower, and rather approach to Q. Phellos, but never to Q. aquatiea. They usually persist until the budding time, but not beyond it ; therefore I would not call them really evergreen. 17. Q. heterophylla (Michx.) must, I believe, like the foregoing, be re-adopted as a distinct species, as it is neither a variety of aqna- tica or Phellos, nor a hybrid of any of these Oaks. As I have not yet seen flower or fruit, my opinion, which stands alone in opposition to the best recent botanists, must for the present be taken for what it may be worth. I distinguish Michanx's species by its long and distinctly petioled leaves, which in vernation are revolute, and are glabrous from their earliest age. My specimens, natives from New Jersey, cultivated ones from Bartram's and Marshall's gardens, and from the European gardens at Verriere, Herrnhaueen, and Prague, the latter fertile, agree in this respect among themselves and with Michaux's figure in his Sylva. In all these specimens the leaves are lanceolate, entire, or sinuate-dentate, 3 in. or mostly 4 in. to 6 in. long, 1 in. to 2 in. wide, on a petiole 3 lines to 9 lines long. In the allied species, Phellos, laurifolia, and aquatiea, the petioles are nsually inconspicuous, or merely 1 line to 2 lines long ; only Q. im. bricaria, which is also readily distinguished by its pubescence, has plainly petioled leaves. I suspect that some specimens claimed for Phellos are entire-leaved forms of the species iu question. May these suggestions induce the local botanists of the lower Delaware region, the favourite home of this Oik, to work up the species ! 18. Q. Wislizeni (A. De C). — With his usual acumen, A. Do Can. doUe discovered this species in a small, fruiting specimen, brought by Dr. Wislizenus in 1851 from the American Fork of the Sacramento River, but, through a mistake of mine, he located it near Chihuahua. Since then nothing further, I believe, has been published about this remarkable Oak, though an abundance of material and very full notes have been gathered by different collectors, principally by Pro. fessor W. H. Brewer and Dr. H. Bolander. This species is found throughout the western parts of California, from Shasta to San Diego, principally in the region of the foot-hills, but does not ascend the higher mountains. In some localities it makes a " magnificent tree," 40 ft. to 60 ft. high, with a trunk occasionally 6 ft. in diameter, but branching 5 ft. or 6 ft. from the ground, as most of the large Californian Oaks of both groups are wont to do. On the coast ranges from Monte Diablo to San Diego it also occurs as a small shrub with small leaves. The bark is pale and smoothish in the younger, very rough and black in the older trees. The firm, leathery leaves persist fourteen or fifteen months on the branches ; they vary excessively, often on the same tree, from broad ovate to narrowly lanceolate ; cordate, obtuse, or acute at base ; the margin ntire, or with a few teeth, or sharply or closely dentate ; shoots Ov young trees have usually dentate, old and fertile ones more commonly entire leaves. In the earliest age the leaves are very slightly concave, and in vernation imbricate ; they bear on both sides articulated hair, bat soon become glabrous ; the full-grown leaves are mostly dark green and shining, and delicately reticulate, principally on the upper surface. They are usually 2 in. to 4 in. long and half as wide, or rarely narrower; petioles 5 lines to 9 lines long; in var. fruticosa the leaves are only 1 in. to IJ in. long, oval, entire, or often very sharply and deeply lobed-dentate ; petioles 1 line to 2 lines long. The rachis of the aments is stellate-canescent, or nearly glabrous; calyx-lobes five or six, large and broad, nearly glabrous or ciliate. bearded ; anthers three to six, often pointed. Bracts of the sessile (or often peduncled) female flowers large, orbicular, membranaceous; the long, recurved styles not rarely four or five in number. Acoma always elongated, 9 lines to 18 lines long, immersed one-third to two. thirds in the cup, which I find varying from 6 lines to 11 lines in depth, and 5 lines to 6 Hues in width ; cup scales elongated -acutish, light brown, and nearly glabrous. On one hand this species ap. preaches to Q. agrifolia, and on the other to Q. Sonomensis. Dr. Kellogg, iu Proc. Cal. Ac. 2, 36 (Da C. Prod. 16, 2, 79), scantily describes an Oak under the name of Q. Morehus, which I have no means of identifying ; possibly it may belong here. 226 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 26, 1876. 19. Q. tnyrtifolia (Willd.) . — Willdenow's description of the foliage, which canuot possibly refer to any other Oak, together with his locality, makes it certain that in Dr. Melliohamp's very complete specimens we have his plant before us, and, thanks to him, I can DOW re-establish this little known and often doubted species. It grows on tlie poorest sand ridges near Bluftton, together with Pinus australis, very rare there, but apparently extending along the coast to Florida. It makes an evergreen shrub from IJ in. to 2 in., usually 4 in. to 5 in., and up to 8 ft. high. Leaves rounded ovate, cordate, obtuse, or sometimes acute at base, obtuse and in youth bristle- pointed at tip, revolnte on the margin, thick and leathery, persisting from fifteen to eighteen months ; leaves vary sometimes to broadly obovato, or are rarely, in young shoots, sinnale-angled ; they are usually 1 in., IV in., or even 2 in. long, but in vigorous ground shoots have been found 2i in. and 3 in. in length by 2 in. in width ; the young leaves are densely covered with a rusty, clammy scurf of articulated hair, which after a month or so disappears, leaving a glossy surface; vernation imbricate; youngest leaves flat with recurved margins ; aments about 1^ in. long with stellate. canescent racliis, five oval, pubescent, calyx. lobes, and a few (mostly only two or three) small, cuspidate anthers ; fruit sessile, or usually short peduucled, single or in twos ; cup very shallow, about 6 lines wide, with ovate-triangular, obtuse scales ; gland ovate or eub-globose, 5 lines or 6 lines long, covered by the cup for one-third or one- fourth of its length. Q. myrtifolia, Willd., Nuttall, Pursh, Elliott, only the first two of which seem to have seen sterile specimens ; Q. Phellos var. arenaria, Chapm. ; Q. aquatica var. myrtifolia, A. Da C. Hybrid Oaks. The question of hybridity in plants is, in every case, diflRciilt to solve where its usual character, the sterility of the hybrid, fails us, and where we have nothing to rely on but the rarity and individuality of a form that seems to stand intermediate between two well-established species which occur in its neigh- bourhood, and which could be considered its parents. This is just the case in Oaks. All the supposed hybrids are abun- dantly fertile, and those of their Acorns which have been tested have well germinated ; in fact, as far as I know, no difference in fertility or germinating power between them and the acknowledged species has been discovered. The seedlings of such questionable individuals do not seem to revert to a supposed parent, a sport of which they might be claimed to be, but propagate the individual peculiarities of the parent — " come true," as the nurserymen express it. At the same time, it is a remarkable fact that, notwithstanding their fertility, they do not seem to propagate in their native woods ; we may properly ascribe this to a lesser degree of vitality in the hybrid progeny, which causes them to be crowded out in the struggle for existence — one of the provisions of Nature to keep the species distinct. White Oaks and Black Oaks are too distinct to hybridise with one another. Thus far no hybrids have been discovered among the former, while among the Black Oaks I find six forms, enumerated below, which I consider as real hybrids ; of them only a fevr, usually only single individuals, have become known, their cxi.stence cannot well, without straining facts, be considered due to innate variability in a supposed parent. Four of these hybrids havo been found in the Mississippi Valley, and two in South Carolina. When more carefully looked for, undoubtedly more will bo discovered. The four western hybrids all claim Q. imbricaria as one of the parents, while the two south-eastern ones seem to point to Q. cinerea ; both arc species with entire leaves, and the mixture of such with lobe-leaved forms would of course be more readily dis- covered from the intermediate leaf-form of the illegitimate otfspring; but it remains for further close examination to ascertain whether lobe-leaved species do not hybridize among themselves, or entire leaved forms also mix together, producing offspring of less strikingly marked characteristics. That we havo to look for one of the parents of all our hybrids to only two species, seems to correspond well with other observations, all pointing to the fact that some species of a genus are more prone to hybridize than others. This is true of Verbenas, hybrids of which abound in this neighbourhood in numerous forms as well as in a great many individuals; of most of them V. stricta ajipcars to bo one of the parents, perhaps because one of tlie mo.st common species, or from some innate quality which makes it mis more readily with others ; perhaps from a peculiar structure of the flower which may promote insect agency. Our hybrid Verbenas differ from the hybrid Oaks ia bearing scarcely any fertile seeds, while at the same time they are so common that evidently they are i-eadily produced anew. Our Oak hybrids are the following : — Probable Parents. Kame uLder which described. Q. coccinea, t^. imbriuaria • . (,). Lcaua. Q. rubra, ,, • • Q. palustris, „ ■ . Q. nigra, ,, . . Q. tridentata. Q. Catcsba?i, Q. cinerea, . . Q. siuuata Q. falcata „ . • 1. Q. imbricario-coccinea was first described and figured by Katlall about thirty years ago, under the name of Q,. Leana, Nutt. Sylv. Contin. 1, tab. 5 bis ; De C. 1. c. 62. The original type was discovered by T. G. Lea, near Cincinnati, and soon after Dr. S. B. Mead found another tree in Ilancock Co., Illinois. My specimen, obtained from tho first discoverer, has entire, or sinuate, or dentate, or dentate, lobed leaves, 4 in. to G in. long, and half as wide, and even in Septem. ber slightly pubescent below ; lobes acute, and bristle-pointed or quite obtuse; base attenuated into a petiole 5 to S in. long; Acorns similar to those of coccinea, cup shallower, with obtuse scales. The leaves in Nuttall's figure have a cordate base. Dr. Mead's tree is similar to Lea's ; leaves apparently more coinmonly entire or undulate. sinuate, 5 in. to 7 in. long and half as wide, obtnsish at base, with a petiole 1 in. long; the pubescence has almost disappeared on tho lower side of the autumnal leaf ; Acorns globose, covered from one-third to one-halt by the canescent cup. Mr. E. L. Greene sends another specimen from Macon Co., Ills.; it is rather more glabrous, but otherwise similar, without fruit. The relationship to imbricaria is unquestionable, and it is quite probable that among the lobe-leaved Black Oaks we must look to one Of the forms of coccinea as the other parent. 2. Q. imbricario.rubra.. — I found this hybrid two years ago in St. Clair Co., Ills., twenty miles from St. Louis, in low, fertile woods where both rubi'a and imbricaria form the bulk of the forest. Growth of the tree and bark like rubra; leaves ample, fiom d. in. to 9 in. long, 2 in. to G in. wide, obtuse or cordate, rarely acute, at base, the smaller more commonlj' oblong and entire, the larger ones oval or obovate, entire or sinuate, or with a few broad and shallow obtuse or triangular bristle.pointed lobes ; in June still downy on the lower surface; petioles ^ in. to 1 in. long, pubescent; fruit unknown. 3. Q. palustri-imbricaria was observed by me a few years ago, eight miles west of St. Louis, in a little dell where imbricaria abounds; palustris, coccinea, and nigra, together with some White Oaks, were near by ; the tree was only 8 in. in diameter, but in full bearing. It had, unfortunately, to give way to a railroad track, but ripe fruit was obtained, which to Mr. Meehan, of Germantown, has furnished fine young plants completely agreeing in character with the parent. Leaves, as far as I could see, not revolnte in vernation, pubescent on both sides, but completely denudated before the end of May. Full. grown leaves, broad. lanceolate, mostly acute at base, entire or more frequently with a few (sometimes more) coarse, triangular-lanceolate, acute, bristle.pointed teeth, glabrous on both sides ; about -t iu. long, 11- in. wide, rarely larger ; peduncles from 3 lines to 4 lines long ; cup moderately deep, turbinate at base, from 6 lines to 7 lines wide, 3 lines to 4 lines high ; ovate-obtuse scales, canescent, with bright brown margins. 4. Q. imbricario-nigra (Q. tridentata, Erg. in Hb.), Q. nigra var. tridentata (De C. 1. o. Gl). — A single tree, rather small, which was soon afterwards destroyed, was found by me, in tho autumn of 1819, on the hills six miles cast of St. Louis, in company with both sup. posed parents and coccinea and rubra, together with some White Oaks. Foliage as well as fruit are of such decided character that the origin of this hybrid can scarcely be doubted ; the leaves are rather those of imbricaria, with a touch of the peculiar lobation of nigra, and the fruit is more like that of nigra. Leaves elliptical to obovate, entire, or often coarsely three-dentate at the apex, occasionally with a few teeth on the sides ; from 4 in. to 7 in. long, 2 in. to 3 in. wide; base rounded or acutish ; upper surface dark, shining green, lower one pale, and in September not quite glabrous ; petiole from 4 lines to 10 lines long. Acorns closely sessile ; the hemispherical, turbjuate, canescent cup about half-enclosing the globose nut. 5. Q. cinoroo.Catesbffii ; (Q. sinuata, Walt. Car. 235, De C. 1. o. 74). — It is quite probable that in the tree observed by Dr. Mellichamp, several years since, near Bluffton, S. C, and not far from Walterb' abode, we meet with Walters' obfcure and lung ignored species. Mr. Ravenel has also observed a similar form in South Carolina, and indi. catcd cinerea as one of tho parents. Dr. M.'s tree grows on a sandy ridge with Catesba)i, falcata, and vireus ; cinerea not far off, but rare; it is 40 ft. high and well grown, has a very dark, deeply cracked bark, which is red inside liUc Calcsbici. Leaves four, rarely Aug. 26, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 227 5 in. to 6 in. long, about half a3 wide, attenuated at base into a par. tially margined petiole, 3 lines to 6 lines long ; leaf itself oblong to obvato, sometimes almost rhombic ; sinuate with shallow obtuse lobes to divaricately dentate-lobed ; lobes obtuse, or acnte and bristle. pointed dark green and shining on upper surface, paler but glabrous and with some axillary down beneath. In early youth both sides, the lower more than the upper, are covered with the rusty, artiou. lated pubescence of Catesbaii, and are as it seems imbricative in vernation. Male flowers with four large pointed anthers. Acorns sessile j cup hemispherical, turbinate, 8 lines to 10 lines wide, 5 lines or 6 lines high ; nut oval, 8 lines to 9 lines high, and 6 lines to 8 lines thick, one-third or one-quarter covered by the cup. One of the parents is doubtless Q. Catesbcoi, as the other, Q. cinerea faloata, or perhaps aquatica, presents itself; falcata would produce very different leaves, aquatica grows in a different soil and would not probably mix with the "Barren Oak;" bo that cinerea with its entire leaves remains, though rare there, as the most probable other parent. 6. Q. falcato-cineraria is quite a late discovery of the same successful explorer, who found it in the vicinity of the last men. tioned hybrid. It still more distinctly shows its parentage. Leaves oblong, usually obtuse or cordate at the base ; often entire or with one or a few teeth, or divaricately trilobed, some of them exactly resembling forms of falcata var. triloba ; leaves three to five, usually 4 in. long, IJ in. to 2 in. and the lobed ones over 3 in. wide ; petiole 6 lines to 9 lines long. The upper surface of the leaves is not reticu. lated as in most allied Oaks, but almost entirely smooth, like Q. cinerea ; pale green ; lower side whitish oanescent. Young fruit Bubsesaile ; no mature Acorns seen. Q. cocoineo-ilicifolia, Gray, Man. Ed. 5, p. 454, found by Dr. Robbins in Massachusetts, is unknown to me. Several forms of Oaks hare at one time or another been considered as hybrids Tchioli most probably are varieties cr sports of one or other of the well-established species, or, in one instance, seem to claim the rank of species themselves. Q. olivasformis (Michx.) is, according to A. Gray, a variety of macrocarpa. After carefully comparing several specimens referred to olivajformis with numerous forms of macrocarpa, I cannot but fully coincide with this view. Mr. E. Hall, of Menard County, Illinois, has found a tree ia his neighbourhood which has exactly the leaves of olivfoformis, as figured by Michaux, lobed so deeply that the midrib is nearly bare, with an ovate fruit larger than that of Michaux (which was most probably incomplete or abortive), and about half inimersed in the deep, not fringed, strongly knobbed cup. This speci. men has been claimed as a hybrid of macrocarpa and alba (Amer. Ent. and Bot. 1870, p. 191). Such leaves, however, are not very rare in macrocarpa, and I have repeatedly seen in western forms of macrocarpa exactly the same kind of Acorns, with or without a fringe on the edge of the cup. Q. runcinata was the name given to aform I found in the richest Mis. sissippi bottom-lands opposite St. Louis, together with Q. rubra, imbri. caria, and palustris. Prom its smaller and narrower, grossly dentate, not lobed leaves, and its smaller fruit, it seemed distinct enough from rubra, and was possibly a hybrid of it and some other small-fruited allied Oak. But the leaves of rubra are so variable in size and out- line that most probably De Candolle (I. c. 60) is right in considering it a variety of rubra. Q. quinqueloba I named a form of nigra, with five-lobed leaves, which I found on the hills of St. Louis ; De Candolle (1. o. 61) places it correctly with nigra. It is not even a variety, but rather a juvenile Btate which had become permanent in that tree ; young trees or shoots of nigra have sinuate. dentate or many.lobed leaves, but in fertile ones the leaves are almost always more or less three-lobed or three-dentate. I have since seen a tree which on one fruit-bearing branch had only the leaves of quinqueloba, while all the other branches had the regular cuneate three-dentate nigra leaves. Q. heterophylla (Michx.) has by some been considered a hybrid of some species with entire narrow leaves and a lobed one ; De Candolle takes it for a form of aquatica, and Gray partly for that, partly for a form of Phellos. I have above expressed my opinion that it is a good species, not to be confounded with the lobe.leaved forms of either. [We reprint the above from the " Proceedings of the Academy of Sciences of St. Louis," with corrections kindly added by the author.] The lemon-scented Verbena in Spain.— The Lemon-plant or swecfc-scentecl Verbena is highly regarded aa a herb in Spain. The leaves are dried for winter use, and it ia regarded aa one of the beat cordials. It is talcen in two ways, either aa a decoction cold with sugar, or with a cup oE tea. A sprig of Lemon Verbena put into a tea-cup, and the tea poured over It makes, it ia eaid, a good beverage. MR. GLADSTONE ON VILLA.GB FLOWER SHOWS. On the occasion of the di.itribution of prizes at the recent annual show of the Hawarden Amateur Horticultural Society, Mr. Gladstone spoke as following respecting village flower shows and gardens for cottagers : — The trouble is that the circle of topics opened up by a flower show is not a very large one, but at the same time it is one of which anybody may be very well contented to treat. There is not a better or a more wholesome and salutary village institution in the whole round that can be named than a flower show. In the first place, it is one of those independent institutions which teaches the people to exert themselves ; and you may depend upon it that man is not a passive and mechanical being. You don't train man as a plant ; he is a moral agent ; and it any good is to be done to him or to any woman or child — and I am delighted to see how many young boys and girls have come forward to obtain honourable marks of recognition on this occasion — if any effectual good is to be done for them, it must be done by teaching and encouraging them and help, ing them to help themselves. As to the people who pretend to take your own concerns out of your own hands, and to do everything for you — I won't say that they are impostors — I won't even say they are quacks, but I do say they are mis. taken people. The only sound, healthy description of conn, tenancing and assisting these institutions is that which teaches in. dependence and self-exertion. There is no better kind of exertion than this ; it is good for your health, good for your independence, because though a garden is not a very large thing in the life of a cottager, it is a very considerable element of independence, as well as of comfort, pleasure, and satisfaction, when well managed and of proper size. It makes a sensible addition to his means of living, and, for my own part, I sometimes hope you, many of yon, may live to see the day when there will be no such thing in this country as a cottage without a garden. I rejoice to think that gardens are in. creasing. We have said before, and I may say now on my sou's part as well as my own, that it is our desire to see them increase here. It is not always a very easy thing to make new divisions of land, because, unfortunately, when a bit of land is given to one, it very often is taken from another. Land is not a thmg that can be manufactured. If we could manufacture it we would make larger gardens, and have gardens for everybody ; but as opportunity offers, I am glad to think there is every disposition to make them universal. Tour independence, your health, and comfort, will be thus promoted, as well as neighbourly assistance, good fellowship, and pleasant meetings of this kind, where we are all met in good humour. Wo come to know one another better, and I hope we come not to like one another worse. But let me tell you one word more, something more grave and serious, but I hope not sorrowful. When you cultivate the plant that grows from the ground yon cannot help thinking a little who He is that makes that plant to grow. When I say you should help yourselves — and I would encourage every man in every rank of life to rely upon self-help more than on assistance to be got from his neighbours — there is One who helps us all, and without whose help every effort of ours is vain ; and there is nothing that should tend more, and nothing that does in the well-constituted mind tend more to make us see the beneBcence of our Creator than to observe the beauty as well as the usefulness of those flowers, those plants, and those fruits which He causes the earth to bring forth for our comfort and advantage. I am very confident that these few words I have spoken are true, and I believe they will find an echo in your minds, for I must say that the best test of reception of such sentiments is in the zeal and diligence with which the people of this parish have supported this institution, and have come forward to claim these prizes. It is to my wife, to me, and to all of us a matter of the liveliest, and I may say intense, satisfaction to see how this institu. tion has taken root, and is itself I may say one of the fairest and most flourishing plants of all those that have sprung up out of the ground. I hope that it will continue to flourish ; it is still young. Let it grow stronger and stronger every year; let us have more and more of the parishioners of this large and growing parish coming forward and competing for these prizes. No enmity will grow out of it ; everybody will rejoice in his neighbour's success almost as much as he would in his own. You will all be better for the zeal and energy with which you give yourselves to those useful and healthy pursuits and the support of this beneficent institution. Rose Hedges. — We never heard any one remark that they had too many Piloses ; indeed, in nine gardens out of ten there are no more than are sufficient for room vases and other indoor decorations. Distillation, so largely practised by our great.grandmothers, is now carried on by our Eimmels and Piesse & Lubins, who grow acres of Roses on their flower farms at Nice and Cannes for the purpose The "still-room " to be found in nearly every country mansion is al 223 THE GARDEN. [Aug. 26, 1876. that now remains of each practices. If Eosea be, however, wanted in profusion, either for catting, for pot-pourri or for other purposes, plant Rose hedges on the fringes of the lawn or alongside woodland walks and drives ; or if Briers already exist, bad them with any of the vigorous, free-blooming varieties that may now be found in culti- vation. Bud, in short, all the Briers that exist within half a mile of the house, and then, after a time, there will be Roses enough for every, body. It should never be forgotten that the soil on which Briers will grow, will produce the most lovely Roses, and that wherever there is a fence of Hawthorns, Crabs, or Sloes, there the finest Pears, Apples, and Plums would grow equally well. A hedge of Sweetbriers is a luxury, even in the most princely garden ; there is one at Moor Park, and most fragrant it is after every summer shower. Among the Hoses best suited for hedges, none are better than Oloire de Dijon, Marechal Niel, Noisettes, Banksian, Ayrshire, Boursault Amadis (itself one of the best of stocks on which to graft or bud delicate Teas and Noisettes), climbing Devoniensis, Lamarqne, and the common Sweetbrier. If variety of colour or fragrance bo desired, then interplant with Clematis and golden or scarlet-flowered Honey, suckles and the white Jessamine. A Rose hedge once well planted requires very little attention afterwards j a little shortening back of the too luxuriant shoots, and a mulching of rotten manure and leaves every winter will be sufficient, an outlay which will be amply repaid in the shape of plenty of Roses. — B. Collecting Alpine Plants.— From a late visit to the Tyrol I brought home amongst a number of other plants some of Pyrola nniSora, which I have planted in pots in a mixture of peat, sand, and loam, and placed them under a glass globe in the shade ; this was about four weeks ago, andalthough they still live and some of them look fairly well, they do not seem to have taken hold of the soil yet, and I am afraid it does not suit them very well, as they make no progress. 1 know now it would have been better to have planted them in leaf- mould instead of peat, but I dare not disturb them again without some proper advice, as the roots are so small that one is afraid to meddle much with them ; perhaps I have shaded them too heavily, BO that no son can get at them at present. Should Soldanellas have the full sun, and how should Pinguicula alpina be placed? — E. H. [With reference to the Pyrola, it is probable that no treat, ment would have induced the plants to grow well soon, as they were no doubt much weakened by the removal and journey. A halt-shady situation is desirable, and sandy peat and leaf-monld mixed ; a bel'. glass is not needed. Soldanellas will thrive in the sun if right at the root. Pinguicula alpina will also thrive in the full sun in a small artificial bog, or in a moist spot in the rock garden. Much depends on the situation, altitude, air, &o., of the garden, to none of which you allude. — A. S.] The Neapolitan Violet. — Winter is fast approaching, and the season for growing winter.flowering plants will soon be over. Neapo- litan Violets suffer much from drought and red spider, especially during such seasons as the present, and they must, therefore, be well looked after till the end of September, especially as regards watering. If the soil and situation chosen for them be suitable and good, crowns selected and planted out in spring will require very little attention beyond watering and keeping them free from weeds and runners ; but if extra fine crowns and flowers be required, they will need greater care. The best plan is to confine the plants in spring to a single crown, selecting such as are strongest and best; prepare a border facing the north with some fresh loam and rotten manure, and plant the crowns out on it 9 in. apart. Wire-worms and slugs are two of the greatest pests which Violets have. Therefore, in using fresh loam it should be well looked over, so as to pick out all the wire- worms ; a little soot put in it will tend to keep down slugs. Red spider is also very troublesome to Violets; but a sprinkling twice or thrice a week with water will keep it in check. A mixture of soot and sulphur is also a good remedy for this pest, but it should bo syringed off afterwards, well washing the under sides of the leaves. Sometimes this Violet will grow very weakly, and the leaves become yellow as if attacked by red spider. If a plant in this condition be lifted it will be found that the cause of the disaster is in the soil; the roots will be seen to have turned black, and, at the eamo time, no sign of blight will be found on the plants. Lime-water applied to such plants will often restore them to health. This disease seldom attacks them, except in wet seasons. This season let the runners be all taken oft carefully ; pick all the yellow or bad under foliage, so as to keep the plants free from slugs ; hoe among them once a fortnight, BO as to keep Iho ground fresh, and allow the rain to penetrate to the roots. Water once a week with soot and cow manure. water, in which a few sheep droppings have been steeped. Mix them in a largo tub, putting about two quarts to four gallons of water; with this water the plants every other day during hot weather; but if rains come they only require a little manure.water about once a week till the time of transplanting has arrived. If Violets are required to be in flower early in December, they should be lifted and planted in their winter quar- ters earlier than if they are to flower in spring. — H. G. Orchids in Flower at Kew. — A plant of CypripediumVeitobi. anum is now in bloom here, and its large-spotted flowers are remark. ably well coloured. This plant and its ally, C. Dayanum, are so dis- tinct from all the other varieties of C. barbatum, that they should be included in every collection of stove Orchids. Miltonia speotabilis, an easily-grown and very pretty species, is also blooming freely ia this establishment, as is also its still more beautiful congener, M. Regnelli, its ivory-white sepals and petals being delicately shaded with peach or faint rose. Several plants of Vanda insignis are like, wise in bloom here, as is also the old crimson-flowered Bronghtonia sangninea and the dark blotched, ivory-petalled Dendrobium BensODiai. Among terrestrial Orchids now in great beauty, there are two which should be grown in every collection, viz., Disa grandiflora (whoso scarlet and yellow flowers, borne on tall stalks, are now happily not an. common) and the less popular, although hardly less beautiful Ealopbia guineensis. The latter bears long spikes of large purple-lipped flowers, the base of the lip itself being prolonged into a curiously- curved spur or nectary. — B. OBITUARY. We rcfrrc't to have to announce the death of Mr. Jonx Eoyston' Peakson, of Chilwcll, near Nottingham, an event which took place on the -Ith inst. Mr. Pearson has been throughout his too short life {he was only fiftys seven) an enlightened pioneer of progress in all matters relating to gar- dening. He was one of the first among us to take up the new system of orchard-house culture, as advocated by Mr. Rivers, and in which he was eminently successful, and his well-directed efforts to improve zonal and nosegay Pelargoniums and in raising new Gmpes are well known. The best of his seedling Grapes arc Ferdinand de Losseps (1870), Chilwell Alicante (IS/l), and Dr. Hogg (1872), a cross between the Royal Musca- dine and the American Strawberry Grape. Clusters of this variety w-ero shown at a recent meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society, and it is now well kno^n as one of the most delicious of all Grapes in flavour. Golden Queen, also likely to prove one of our best white or amber-tinted Grapes, is a seedling from Alicante, crossed with pollen of Ferdinand de Lesseps. This last new Grape Mr. Pearson reared from the same parents as Golden Queen; like that variety it has a robust constitution,_ and is altogether an excellent Grape, to which a certificate was awarded in 18/4. But Mr. Pearson was not only a worker, he was also a writer ; and his contributions to The Garden and other journals were always both original and instructive. In social life he was a genial, warra-heartcd man, who has leftbehind him a large circle of friends to regret bis loss. NOTES AND QUESTIONS-TAEIOUS. Gloxinias in Cool Houses.— There ia now an extensive collection of theao in Messrs. Hooper's jjardens at Twickenham, flowering with great vigour in a honso without artificial heat, and considerably shaded. Their fresh colour and rich preen leaves prove them to thoroughly enjoy the conditions. They wero started in gentle heat, and afterwards transferred to their present quartors, —P. Variegated Plants from Seed.— Will any of your readers kindly ffive me Forao information on this Buhject? I believe that Mesembryanthemum cordi- folium variegatum, now so largely used for carpet beds, can be reproduced in that way, as can also Pyrethrum parthenifolium aureum, Coba;a ecandens yariegala, Amarantus salicifolius' and a few others; but I am an- ious to obtain the names of other variegated varieties which, to use a common expression, " come true " when propagated by means of their own seeds.— F. W. B. Extra-sarly Vermont Potatoes.— We are just nowlifung an extraordinary crop of this new American Potato. The hot, dry weather which we have lately experienced suits all the American Potntccs well, but of all coloured kinds this is decidedly the best. When boiled, the skin ia a beautiful pink colour; Iho llesh, which is white, is rather too soft to please some, but the variety is worth growing on account of its productiveness alone. Snowfllako is also excellent, and will. I think, supersede Lapstone, which is my btandard at prosoat. — Annual Phloxes at Bangor,— The attraction of one of the hotels hero is a lovely garden, in which flowers, trees, and shrubs grow moat laxuriantly. One speciality is in great perfocti'm, and that is the annual Phloxes. There are largo beds tilled with them, the varieties V)eing so numerous that I can scarcely count them ; I should think there must be fifty or sixtj-, or perhaps moio. They make the most beautiful showy flower-beds I ever saw, — J. 0. S. Lilinm Walliclxianuni and L. neilgherrense.— In Thb Gabdbw of last week (see p. IHi) it is said that Lilium Walichianum is now in bloom at Col- chester. 18 not this L. neilgherrense? L. AValtichianum flowers about October, wliilo L. neilphorrenso hna been in bloom with mo for several weeks past, and will continue in flower many weeks to come. L. neilgherrense is th6 best of nil the Indian Lilies yet introduced, and although I have not planted it out, I have no hesitation in saying that it will prove quite hardy, and be ona of the grnndost ornaments of the flower garden, as well as one of the choicest of plants for the conservatory. In constitution it appears eqaal to our commonest Lilies— P. Pars. Ulmus Roseelsi. — This is the proper name of the plant referred to lost week asUlmus Roealiin "Notes of the Week." It is a yellow variegated, or rather yellow sulTused Elm of great beauly in Messrs. Lee's fine collection, Cornus mascula elegantisbima should havo been written C. mae. clegantib&iiLai THE GARDEN. 229 SATURDAY. SEPTEMBBR 3, 1876. ■* This is an art Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but Thb Abt itself is Natubb." — Shakespeare, HOW TO GROW, FORCE. AND SHOW THE HYACINTH. By F. SANDER, St. Albans. Time was, and that not so very long ago, when a Hyacinth was worth as much as a hnuter or a shorthorn. Bulbs were then the rage; to pay a hundred or two hundred pounds, and even a thousand pounds for a Tulip, was not unusual. Taste delighted in rare possessions, and speculation ran wild. The bulb mania, like others, was followed by a re-action, and bulb-growing went almost out of fashion ; thanks, however, to the revival of spring-gardening, and the attempts now made in all directions to garland the year round with flowers, the culture of bulbs is now established on a wider and firmer basis than hitherto. For one bulb-grower at any previous time in the history of horticulture there are a hundred now-a-days. Hya- cinths, above all other bulbs, are grown by everybody every where — they adorn the conservatory of the millionaire, and are found in the rooms and gardens of the poorest amateur. Every- body, in fact, grows them, and all want to get them to the high- est point of culture, whether in season in the open air, or out of season under glass. But few are content with merely growing or forcing Hyacinths ; most people want to go a step further, and to show them. Many school children now-a-days have their show of bulbs, and no class is so poor but it has its show of window plants, exhibitions of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Crocus, or other bulbs. The tendency of late years, however, is to crowd most of our bulbs indoors ; there are many who have their Hyacinths annually under glass, in pots or glasses, who never have a brilliant display in the open air. Hyacinths may be looked upon as perfectly hardy, though the flower-stems should receive some slight protection from winter frosts and March winds. The Hyacinth is easily flowered, and those who wish to have a brilliant display every year can hardly do better or more economically in the end than buy a few dozen scores or hundreds of bulbs annually. It has been said that bulbs may be grown in England as well as in Holland, but this is one of those statements which are not supported by experience. The Hyacinth, during its season of growth, requires a deep, rich, moist, and light soil, and a humid atmosphere ; the last cannot be guaranteed in our uncongenial British climate in the spring; on the contrary, our English springs are harsh and dry. But, notwithstanding this, our seasons, with merely ordinary care, will bring out all the beauty stored up iu imported bulbs of good quality, as finely as the more genial climes of other countries. There is no better situation for the culture of the Hyacinth in the open air than a sheltered bed or southern border, with a sharp slope to the south ; in any position it is important that the surface should be convex, or pitched, so that no stag- nant water iu the winter can rest on the surface ; thus made, the bed will be dry. The soil should be light, rich, and sandy. Though many assert that Hyacinths seldom do so well any- where as under the influence of sea-spray, our experience proves that they grow as well without it ; while it is equally cer- tain that salt is a dangerous fertilizing agent, unless for such de- cidedly saline plants as Seakale or Asparagus. If the soil be stiff and clayey, have it removed to a depth of 2 ft., and fill up with a mixture of leaf-mould, peat, and well-rotted manure, and if possible silver sand ; in any case the soil should be rich and dry when prepared. In the place of horse manure, old cow manui'e may be used. The best time for planting is from the beginning of October to the latter part of December; if planted too soon the Hyacinth will be too forward before the hardest of the winter is past ; if too late, the bulbs will be partially ex- hausted before they are put into the earth. By planting in succession through these three months, we have Hyacinths also in succession for several months in the spring, As to the manner of planting, perhaps the worst mode is that of dibbling in the bulbs, as the pressure of the dibble is apt to leave the ground hard, whereas the soil at the base of Hya- cinths should be rather loose, so that the roots may start and grow away freely. When this precaution is neglected, we often find that the mass of roots lifts the bulb out of the ground. We mention this here, but it should also never be neglected in potting for show or greenhouse work. For planting make a shallow trench with hoe or spade 3 in. deep and of a uniform depth ; place the bulbs at the bottom and replace the soil, pressing it firmly at the top. Sometimes 3 in. of soil are taken off the surface of the bed, and the place of the bulbs marked at distances of 6 in., 9 in., or 12 in. apart, 9 in. being a good average ; place a small hand- ful of river-sand for each bulb to rest upon, and return the soil. It is a good plan, perhaps, to place stakes to the bulbs before covering them, as if this be not done the bulbs are often staked through when the flower-stems need support ; it is also a good practice to cover the beds over with 2 in. or 3 iu. of Cocoa-nut fibre refuse, which renders the surface frost-proof. The bulbs need no more attention until the flower- stems are much advanced, unless very severe weather intervenes, when they should have a mat or some oiled calico thrown over them. Waterproof calico is also useful in very wet weather, excess of water, especially when iced by February frosts and March winds, being by no means good for Hyacinths, which will thrive all the better for being sheltered by a waterproof cover- ing. Hyacinths in the open air hardly ever require artificial watering, the natural moisture of the soil and the strength of the manure mixed with it being sufficient to carry them through. Tie up the flower-stems as soon as they rise above the foliage, and have protection at hand, as sleety frosts may destroy the flower-stems during severe weather. After blooming, the bulbs, if expected to flower again, must be left undisturbeduntil the leaves wither or die of their own accord. The bulbs should then be taken up and dried in a. stack for a week or two, and finally placed in the sun for a few hours, and the dry leaves pulled off. Offsets should be removed likewise from the bulbs, and stored in dry sand or earth till planting time comes again. Hyacinths especially deteriorate if left in the soil, and it may be laid down as a maxim that the more liber- ally the bulbs are treated after flowering, the more useful the bulbs will be for another season. Offsets, if carefully culti- vated in a rich piece of light soil for two or three years, will then produce a good many flowering bulbs, but, as a rule, imported bulbs are best ; however carefully they may be cultivated iu England, they seldom or never flower again so well as the first season, and so generally is this ad- mitted that many throw the old bulbs_ away annually and procure new supplies. A good plan is to plant in the mixed border, when they often make a good show amongst herbaceous plants, or skirting the fronts of shrubberies. Selec- tions for bedding in distinct colours of red, yellow, blue, white, or mixed, are to be bought at a cheap rate from any respectable seedsman or nurseryman, and a comparatively grand display maybe made on a large scale with little outlay. Amongst those best adapted for bedding may be mentioned among whites — Alba superbissima, Crown Princess of the Netherlands, La Pucelle d'Orleans, Hannah More, Victoria Regina ; among blues —Argus, Bleu Mourant, Emicus, Emilius, Kaiser, Ferdinand, L'Amidu Cceur, Prince Albert, Charles Dickens, William I. ; among the red varieties— Duchess of Richmond, Emmeline, Herstelde Vrede, L'Ami du Coeur, Norma, Tempel van Apollo ; and of yellows— Alida Jacoba, Catherina, Herrive, La Pluie d'Or, Overwinnaar. These are all single, and well selected cheap varieties, but the best mode of purchasing is to ask for distinct colours, such as dark blue, light blue, white, dark red, light red, and yellow, leaving to the seedsman the selection ; this done he is better able, assisted as he is by his knowledge, to serve his customers well. All this applies to border Hyacinths. Forcing the Hyacinth. As with all other plants for forcing, so with Hyacinths. The great thing is to have fine, large, heavy bulbs to start with, although there are exceptions to this rule. Many varieties never make large roots, but form, notwithstanding, magnificent spikes. Do not, therefore, be disappointed if you buy a few 230 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 2, 1876. Bmall bulbs ; but the great average should consist of large roots, which nhould, as said before, be weighty and plump, not light and loose or advanced in growth. The better the bulbs, the better the flowers assuredly are. Much also de- pends on securing the bulbs early. It has been said that the desire for early bulbs has led to a deterioration of quality ; but that the dates for lifting, bousing, cleaning, and selling the Hyacinth have been fixed 100 years ago, and to make a Dutch bulb-grower alter these dates would be as impossible as to move the pyramids of Egypt. Orders, should, how- ever, be given early, for the first-comer is the first served, and carries off the cream of the bulbs. Again early potting secures early rooting, and early rooting strength and health. No Hyacinth will force satisfactorily, unless it is made first to root well ; and without this is attended to, the finest bulb will do badly, and only prove a mortification to the grower and be an utter failure. There are several steps in the culture of the Hyacinth which lead to perfect leaves and flower-heads. The importance of starting with the best material at the most suitable time has been already adverted to. The bulbs must also be potted in the best way, placed under the most favourable circumstances, and started skilfully. The soil for the Hyacinth should be rich, light, and porous, and rather loose. It is one of those bulbs that does not like firm potting, and cannot endure cramming in ; but let us here call attention to what we said at the beginning — that above and around the bulb the soil should be but slightly pressed ; the latter should be a sandy loam but mixed with old decayed cow-manure ; drain liberally, and fill a 6-in. pot up to rather above one-half, put a thin layer of clean, sharp, silver sand at the base of the bulb, place the bulb upon it, cover the crown, but do not bury it : let the soil be in a fair state as to moisture, for the bulbs will not receive water for some time. The next step is to choose the right place and treatment for the development of the roots ; it is obvious that if the pots were placed in full light that the tops would come forth in advance of the roots. This is the one thing to be guarded against at this stage; we must first have roots in strength and number: place the pots in a cool, well-drained, dry situation in the garden —best in an old frame with the lights ofi; — and place a 3-in. pot over each bulb ; this will keep it clean and from rotting ; cover the drain-hole of the pot with a small stone or potsherd, and place about 6 in. to 9 in. or 1 ft. thick of clean ashes over them, taking care that the sides of the frame are also well covered with this material. The darkness and seclusion encourage root growth, and in about six weeks the pots will be quite full of roots, and the tops will start with strength and vigour. Practically after four weeks the ashes should be removed, and a more moist substitute, such as Cocoa-nut fibre refuse, or spent tan, should replace them. Now the pots should be moved into a low, well-lighted house, and be placed close under and near the glass — not on a shelf, however — this does not suit them, but on a moist sub- stance or ashes ; the small pots should bo left over the bulbs for a while, so that the young growth may get steadily used to the light ; many growers leave a 4.-in. pot over the bulbs for sometime. The flower will grow towards the light, that is, to- wards the opening in the top of the pot, and the leaves will keep down. This is a very essential point, and one to which much attention should be given. The leaves should stand well under, never above, and never covering the spike; and keeping the pot over the bulb will bo the first step towards obtaining fine dwarf leaves. If quick forcing be wanted, the pots should be placed on a bottom-heat of 60° or 65"^ ; the flower will start with extraordinary rapidity, but greater strength will be obtained in a temperature 5" lower. In adopting this mode of forcing great care must bo taken in applying an excess of heat; the roots must also be thoroughly watered once or twice a day ; do not let the material on which the pots stand get dry, but keep it very moist. A Hyacinth once dry enough to flag is half killed. With pots well dr.ained it is next to impos- sible to over-w.ater. Doubtless Hyacinths flower best forced slowly into blossom ; and we should advise a top temperature o(Ci!j'\ Stronglygrownand richly nourished with manure-water, they will need the support of wires or sticks ; the succulency of their stems and the strength of their flowers prevent them from standing alono with safety. Almost all nurserymen sell wire supports of the most improved forms at a very low rate. As to the best varieties they are almost infinite, and every year adds to their number. We give the names of a few of the best. Tr7ii7a. Alba maximiv „ ■ Buperbissima La Testjilo Grand Yainquour Baron Von Tuyll Queen of tho Nether- lands Madame Van der IIoop L'Innocenco La Francliiso Grand Vedetto Miss Nigbtingalo Mont Blanc White anil Rose. Serapbino Anna Paulowna Cleopatra Lord Granville Tubifiona Mammoth Voltaire Red, Rose, and Blush. Madame Croldschmidt Pure Wliife. Bonqnet Boyal Prince of Waterloo Grootvorsten La Tour d'Auvergne Triompbe Blondina Lord Castlereagh Sceptre d'Or Imperatrico Eomaino A la Mode Virginia Light Blue. Mignon de Dryfbont Comte do St. Priest Eavoyi5 Murillo Sir Jobn Franklin Bloeksbcrg Eembrandt Single Kinds. Alexander Lord Wellington Madame Kistori Gigantea Norma Cavaignao L'Ornement de la Nature Dark Red, Scarlet, .^c. Beauty of Waltham Garibaldi Queen Victoria Mebemet AH Prince Albert Victor Howard Macaulay Kobert Steiger Victor Emanuel Lilac and ilauve, Haydn L'Honneur d'Overveen Adelina Patti La CandoUo Sir E. Landseer Double Kinds. King of the Nether- lands Dark Blue, ruiyle, .J-c. Prince de Saxe Weimar Konig von Wurtemberg Bride of Lammermoor Louis Philippe La Charmante Albion Garrick Laurens Koster Lord Wellington Prince Albert Light Red, Blush, ij-c. Alida Catberino Josephine Dan O'Connell Light Blue, Orondates Grand Vedctt Aimable Bleu Celestina Leonidas Canning Grand Lilas Charles Dickens Blondin Dark Blue, Black, and Purple, Uncle Tom Argus Shakespeare King of Siara Lord Palmerston General Lauriston Bleu Mourant Feruck Khan General Havelock King of the Blues Pernquo Royale Bouquet Royal Czar Nicholas Frederick the Great Susanna ^laria Noble par Merito Milton L'Espcrance Panorama Shakespeare Grand Monarqae de France Dark Red, Scarlet, cfc. Sir Joseph Paxtou Eclipse Sans Souci La Belle Alliance Bouquet Tendro Maria Louisa Early white Eoman Hyacinths sliould be potted in August or September. Planted in a pot and forced, they flower quickly, and are very handy for cutting before Christmas. They are useful for bouquets and decorating purposes. Hyacinths for Glasses, Vases, Baskets, &c. Nearly all the above varieties of single Hyacinths will grow in glasses ; double Hyacinths are not so well adapted for this mode of growth, .are not so effective, and do noc make such a fine show as single sorts. November is a good month to begin the culture of Hyacinths in water ; nothing is simpler than the mode of procedure. Choose good bulbs, fill the glasses with soft pure raiu-water, place the base of the bulb near to, but not so as to touch the water, set the glass in a dark, cool place for six weeks, until, in fact, the glasses are crowded with roots. During that period fill up the glasses with rain-w.ater as wanted, but at no time fill the glasses so full as to touch the bulb ; neither is it necessary to change the water, the process being apt to confuse aiid disari-ange the roots. Throw into the water a pinch of charcoal, which has such powerful antiseptic properties that it will keep the water from decomposition throughout the entire season. Gradually bring the plants to the light, and from this time they can endure full sunshine; tlio more light they enjoy, the stronger and larger will be the spike, and the brighter the colour of the flowers. If the bulb bo good to start with, and the roots thoroughly established, the stem will be bold and strong. Hj'acinths in glasses need noguano-wator or other stimulants : some, hoppcver, believe in feeding them with a little salt and a dose of guano or sewage-water ; the flowers will withstand it, but are more enjoyable without it. Wlicu in full growth the glasses may bo replenished with water daily of the temperature of that of the room. There is this advantage in only giving clear Sept. 2, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 231 water, the whole o£ the root ramification adds a new and special charm to the growth of Hyacinths in glasses ; the whole plant is visible, and when to a glassful of crystal-like roots are added the bold, dark green leaves, noble stem, and exquisitely coloured and sweetly-fragrant flowers, the pleasure to the culti- Tator is enhanced. Care, however, must be taken to guard from accident Hyacinths in glasses, and they should be care- fully protected with a proper hold-fast attached to or purchased with the glass ; the flower-stem is all through in danger of tipping over and breaking both plant and flower. The position of Hyacinth glasses is one of those vexed questions that is mostly left in an unsettled state, and is consequently in most cases finally determined by accident, and as soon as the plant is taken out of its dark, cool abode, the broad piece between two sashes is mostly chosen for it; the roots are exposed to the full glare of the sun, and the plant is subjected to the greatest possible extreme of light and temperature, and the risk of breakage is extreme. A shelf or basket is preferable, or a small movable table is better still ; a plant-stand, the bottom of which is furnished with Moss or Lycopodium, is still more artistic; a glass case may also be used, fringed round with Forget-me-nots. If one wishes to transfer plants from pots into water, empty the whole of the soil by turning the pot completely over, and carefully wash the roots clean from every particle of soil, after which they may be placed in a glass filled with clear water. The culture of Hyacinths for showing in water does not greatly vary from those grown in pots, only it is of the greatest moment that the finest bulbs and the choicest varieties be chosen, and that the culture should be the highest and the best. Early potting is also of great importance, but the chief art of cultivating Hyacinths for show consists in timing them to flower at the right season. The shows may take place at any time from January to Ajsril. Of course the later they are shown the finer their flowers are expected to be ; and this is by no means always the case, the finest Hyacinths generally flowering about February, or some four or five months from the period of potting; this allows ample time for the roots to be fully developed, and the tops to be formed and to unfold their beauty at a slow and sure rate ; the bulbs are sometimes stored in a cool place with care by some exhibitors, and not potted till the beginning of December ; the best way, however, is to carefully pot and root the bulbs, and to finish them in about three to four months from the time of potting. Abundance of light and air are essential for exhi- bition Hyacinths to the full bringing out of flower and colour, and also for developing healthy growth in the leaves. The flower-stems must be kept perfectly straight, and turning the pot sometimes is needed ; every means should be adopted to stimulate the growth at the end of that period, and to bring out a long spike and well-formed large individual blossoms. Each of these should stand separately, though close enough to its neighbour to make an unbroken whole. The most attractive flowers and decisive colours are the best foi showing, and artistic arrangement is needed also. The flowers on the spike should be carefully placedand so arranged that they keep their neighbours up. Each flower should be a thing of beauty in itself, and add to the charm of others n ear it. Every true cultivator will attend to the growth of the leaves — also a great object. The foliage should be dark green and low, not long, straggling, and standing half up, or perhaps above the flower; this must be attained by keeping the plants close to the glass on the cool bottom of the stage. Watering with manure is also needed— should not be overdone,and not ornitted; it is a grand plan to keep the flowers well back, and two days be- fore the show to place them into a stronger heat. It is astonish- ing how line and long the flower-spike will come, but be careful in doing this ; have the leaves well finished beforehand, and be sure to watch the colour of the flower ; keep it well to the light. In arranging the fiowers on the spike begin at the top, and keep each flower well up ; use green painted wire sticks to support your spike, and plunge the 6-in. into 9-iii. or 10-in. pots, and let them stand very high up, filling in the opening between the rims at the side and top with carefully selected dark green carpet Moss. Autumn-sown Annuals.- — At p. 181, " W. T." gives a list of plants which, for flowering in epring, require to be sown now. The information was donbtless snflBoient for those well acquainted with gardening, bnfc to such as myself a little advice as to which of the plants in the list require to be sown in patches and there remain for flowering, as Virginia Stock ; or which, after springing up, require to be transplanted, aa WallflowerB, Stocks, &c., would be welcome. They will all do, I suppose, to be sown out-of-doors now, and there to remain. — W. S. [In replying to your correspondent's previous note I had in view chiefly the question of what were the most suitable annuals for furnishing cut flowers in spring. All the plants named may be sown now and where they are to remain, as few of them transplant well owing to their tap] roots. The Collin, eias. Coreopsis, and Myosotis are those best suited for removal if required. In any case the seeds should be sown thinly; the soil must not be rich or retentive, or the seedlings may become too gross in habit and suffer more from severe weather than if of more restricted growth.— W. T..1 CELOSIAS FOE WINTER BLOOMING. Few plants are more striking in the dull days of autumn and the yefc more sombre season of winter than these lively-looking, graceful plants. Sow for a last batch in August. Any light soil will do, covering but slightly, as the seeds are small. Place the seeds in pots or pans in heat, and as soon as the plants are up, raise them near to the glass, as future success largely depends on a sturdy habit through the first stage of growth. Fot off as soon as the plants are large enough to handle, and plunge the pots in a bottom.heat of 60° or so, still keeping the plants near to the glass. Under such treat, ment the plants grow fast, and the pots will scon be full of roots. Shift into larger ones directly, until a 6-in. or S-in. pot is reached. These sizes, unless immense plants 6 ft. high be required for lofty conservatories, will be sufiicient. Properly managed and well fed with manure, a 6.in. pot will grow a Celosia a yard high and almost as much through. Large plants, however, are not by any means the best or most useful for winter decoration. Good, shapely pyramids, about 2 ft. high, in 6.in. pots, are much more useful, as they will stand on a shelf in any out-of-the way part of the stove, and yield quantities of blossom for cutting, and also lighten np, bj their many spikes of beauty, foliage or other plants. After their final shift the Celosias should gradually be removed from a tropical to a more temperate climate ; a warm, light green- house or conservatory is about the best situation for them. This final shift should be into rich soil, composed of turfy loam and leaf, mould, with a free admixture of sand. For summer work the Celosia may have a much richer soil — half of loam and half of rich manure. But less forcing food is better and safer for those that have to pass through the winter. The chief enemies of the Celosias are thrips and red spider ; both dislike a moist regimen, and the Celosias delight in frequent syringings overhead. Hence, if the plants be shaded, the pests do not get much hold. Should they, however, do £0, smoke twice at least in succession with Tobacco paper, and, in fact, continue smoking until the pests are dead. Nothing is more fatal to the health and beauty of Celosias than red spider or thrips ; these mar the beauty of both leaves and flowers, and arrest growth. The spider especially delights in these plants ; and this is one reason why all their early growth should be made in bottom.heat, that from fermenting manure being by far the best. The pyramidal flower-spiked Celosias have almost driven the old crested sorts out of cultivation, and deservedly so. The old Cocks, combs were grand things in their way, but required a good deal of skill and care to grow them well, and they refused to group effectively with any other plants. There is a large crimson comb, beautiful enough in its way, but it was not, and never could be made anything more than a comb. Now these new Celosias or Cockscombs group well with all kinds of plants, and are among the most useful of any for cutting for vases or bouquets. Groups of Celosias are very showy by themselves, and have a still richer effect mixed with such strikingly beautiful foliage plants as Amarantus Henderi, A. salici. folius, and A. tricolor. There are a great many varieties of these feathered Celosias, ranging through the different shades of colours from lilac to crimson, and yellow to orange. Almost each grower has his own specially good strain, distinguished either by its superiority of vivid colouring, size, or profusion of bloom. Among the finer named sorts are the following : — C. pyramidalis aurca, fine golden ; C. p. ignea, rich crimson ; C. p. aurantiaca, fine orange ; C. p. plumosa aurantiaca, in different varieties of colour, such as C. splendida and C. versicolor violacea, is a very fine strain, producing feathery-looking fiowers of great richness and beauty. Few plants are more striking or more useful in the stove in winter, or more highly ornamental as pot plants in the conservatory throughout the autumnal months. — D. T^ Fish. 232 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 2, 1876. NOTES OP THE WEEK. Tropical Plants in London Flower Gardens. — Tropical Arums and other tender fine-leaved plants used in the flower gardens of the London Parks are already being housed, so that their season at best is a very short one. It is clear that all real improvement in this direction must be with hardy subjects, -which happily are very numerous, and of as high an order of beauty as plants requiring the highest temperature. Hecki'IELD Gardens. — By permission of Lord Eversley, the gardens at ileokfield Place, Winohlield, may be inspected by the public on the tth, 11th, and 18th of September. Applications for tickets of admission should be made to Mr. Wildsmith. The gardens are very well managed and well worth a visit. The Winter CnERRV. — In Battersea Park may now be seen a portion of shrubbery fringed with this plant, and full of fruit. The margins of shrubberies, etc., form some of the best place! for grow, ing plants of this character, and it would be well if, instead of the moan (and meaningless) line of " scarlets," we were to meet old friends here and there in such positions. Alth.ea trutex well grown. — This fine autumn.blooming shrub would well repay for good culture; we mean by that, selection of a sunny, warm position, good and well. drained soil, and plenty of room, so as to secure shapely and furnished bushes. We notice many specimens about London deprived of air by being crowded in among other shrubs, and robbed at the roots by the same ill-fed and ill-oared- for crowding. A Fine-foliaged Tree. — Many of our trees have looked rusty of late, but there is at least one striking exception, and that is, that fine hardy tree Pterooarya caucasica, which has very handsome, rich green, pinnate leaves. A good young specimen may be seen on the lawu near the dell at the end of the Serpentine in Hyde Park. Some young trees of common sorts are near it, and will require removal in due time to prevent injury to the rarer species. Pot Vines in Covent Garden. — London fruit growers are ap. parently not contented with their produce being brought to market in a cut state, for we notice in Covent Garden this week well-grown Vines in pots, each carrying from six to eight bunches of fruit of fair average quality ; the rods are led round stout stakes, which are placed at equal distances apart in the pot, and the bunches are secured from injury by means of wadding. Dwarf Bedding Dahlias. — These, now at their best in the Wel- lington Road Nurseries, are very attractive and valuable at this season of the year, when other bedding plants are past their best. They do not grow more than 1 ft. or 15 in. high, are of a strong branching habit, and are profusely laden with well-formed flowers of various shades of colour. They are well adapted for beds or narrow borders, and if planted in a deep, moist soil, will continue in bloom until frost sets in. Second Flowering and Leaping op Trees. — Some of the Chest, nuts on the Paris Boulevards are putting forth a second crop of leaves and blossoms. This not unfrequently happens towards the end of September or in October, but the excessive heat of the first half of August has accelerated the shedding of the spring foliage and start- ing of the new buds. The same thing is occurring in the London Parks, mostly with the Lime. Nothing of the kind seems to happen in the case of American trees. The Cardinal Flower (the Scarlet Lobelia) is just now making the swamps, ditches, and low grounds throughout the Northern States of America, wo learn from " Moore's Rural," brilliant with its showy plumes. It has few rivals in colour. We regret to observe that this fine plant, of which many fine forms have been raised in this country, is now seldom seen in London gardens. It frequently perishes in winter, which may explain the fact, while it is perennial on some soils. BoccoNiA CORDATA. — Mr. Wildsmith, writing from Heck Eeld, says : — Allow me to supplement the note on " Funkias for the Wild Garden," by naming another kind of plant equally well suited for the same purpose, viz., Bocconia cordata ; just now this is in fine bloom, and not having been disturbed for over four years, the panicles of flowers which it is bearing are magnificent. Depth of soil is of greater importance than richness, and it is very impatient of removal, hence its suitability for the wild garden. DouiiLE Zinnias. — These are lloworing unusually well this year, the bright warm weather which wo hivo had having been highly favourable for their growth. Both at Blenheim and at Woolver.stono Park, they may now bo seen in great perfection, their flowers being as large and double as those of some Dahlias, and infinitely more varied in colour. The bed in which they are growing at Woolver- atono is 30 ft. in length and 10 ft. in width, and literally a mass of floral beauty. HARDY FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. SrRiXG-sowN hardy annuals of Tarious kinds are now so very ornamental on rich soils that it is surprising they do not receive more attention, for if sown in succession they keep up a continuous supply of flowers of the most showy kind from spring until late in the autumn. There is no comparison between annuals sown on dry, liot soils, and those planted on deep, well-enriohed ground, and the latter should always be chosen for them when possible. Clarkias are now especially showy, as are also Godetia "Whitneyi and the taller- growing G. Lindleyana. Dwarf crimson, yellow, orange, and rosy Nasturtiums arc also in perfection, together with Phlox Drummondi of various colours ; Convolvulus minor, Zinnias, scarlet and blue Piinpornels (Anagallis), rosy Rhodanthe, and yellow, crimson, purple, and white Helichiysums, all of which are at present very attractive in Mr. Barr's trial grounds at Tooting. A bed of double and singie-flowered varieties oE Dianthus laciuiatus Heddewigi is now in perfection, some of the double crimson, white, and lilac forms rivalling Carnations in form and co'.our, while their odour is as delicate as that of the Sweet William (Dianthus barbatus). For several years past a choice strain of these Chinese Pinks has been grown in the Rose beds at the Crystal Palace, and nothing can well be prettier than they are, either for cut flowers or for outdoor decoration. The common Cockscomb, and its allies the peren- nial Celosias, are rarely grown as hardy annuals, but in Mr. Barr's grounds they have done well treated in this manner, while some late-sown Ten- week Stocks are just now in perfection. Late propagated Pansies, and blue and yellow seedling Violas of the V. cornuta and V. grandiflora or V. lutea sections, are likewise very pretty in cool, shady beds. Seedling Antirrhinums are flowering well, and few biennials are better adapted for the ornamentation of dry banks combined with Mignonette and Wallflowers. Tobacco of various kinds, especially the green-flowered Nicotiana rustica, and the pink-blossomed N. virginica, are now amonj» the most stately of all half-hardy annuals, and we saw tlie other day a very effective bed of these plants edged with the crimson Amarantus oaudatus or Love-lies-Bleeding. Among hardy perennials golden and purple-flowered Rudbeckias are now in perfection. Tritoma Uvaria and its varieties are also aglow with flame-coloured flowers. The rich orange-flowered Tritonia aurea is likewise flowering freely, as are also the blue- flowered African Lily (Agapanthus) and Hyacinthus candicans, the latter bearing drooping white flowers on scapes 5 ft. or 6 ft. in height. Many varieties of the common Marvel of Peru (Mirabilis Jalapa) arc also now in bloom, and are especially pretty in the evening when the flowers expand more freely than during the daytime. Polygonum orientale, the Oriental or common Persicaria, is now flowering freely, and although of rather straggling habit, its long panicles of bright carmine flowers are found to be useful when cut for the ornamentation of large vases. Japanese Lilies of the L. speciosum and L. auratum types are still very handsome in cool, shady positions, as are also the double and single Tiger Lilies, while scarlet, white, purple, rose, and other tinted Gl.adioli are very orna- mental in herbaceous borders or in Rhododendron beds, where their tall spikes of bright flowers are seen to advantage, con- tr.asted with dark green foliage. The large purple-flowered Senecio pulcher is flowering well in Mr. Pai'ker's nursery at Tooting, and among aquatics may be mentioned the golden-flowered Villarsia nymphaioidcs, while the chaste Hawthorn-scented Aponogeton distachyon can be seen as floriferous as ever. Mr. Parker has also n dis- tinct dwarf form of the common white Water Lily now in flower, with leaves and flowers scarcely half the size of those of the typo. For tanks or jiools of limited dimensions this kind will prove especially useful. QUiiothcras are now more than usually showy, Q'l. grandiflora, CE. missouriensis, QO. taraxacifolia being the best among the dwarf section, and Gi. Lamarckiana among tall kinds. One of the best of all peren- nial Composites now in bloom is Ilclianthus multillorus fl.-pl., a Sunflower which grows from •!• ft. to 5 ft. in height, each giowlh being terminated by bright yellow flowers 3 in. in diameter. This is especially useful for massing in large beds or borders along with Hollyhocks, Dahlias, Tritotnas, Gladioli, Sept. 2, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 233 Great- flowered Hypericum CH. oalyomum). Common Tillarsia (Y. nymphseoides) . -^h r^' ^jj^u. Perennial Sunflowei (HLlmTiilms muUifloru«) Lindley's Godetia (G. Lindleyana). Spiked Button Soakeroot (Liatris spicata). The long-flowered Mirabilis L (M. longiflora) . Love-lies-Bleeding (Amarantus oaudatus). Autumn Windflower (Anemone japonica alba). Cardital Flower {Mimulus cardiualis). SOME HATIDT FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. 234 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 2. 1876. Kudbeckias, Lilies, Fuchsias, Erythrinas, Pampas Grass, and other strong-growing perennials, such as Elymus arenarius and Cannas. In addition to the above the following are also in bloom, viz. : — Cedronella cana, Tagetes luoida, the yellow- flowered Silphium laciniatum, Tradescantia virginica, Nigella hispanica. Salvia Horminum, different kinds of Braohycome, and Candytufts ; the pretty, trailing. Verbena-like Abronia tirabellata, double-flowered Lychnis, still one of the most effective flowers of the season; Rock Roses and Erodiums of different kinds, Parnassia palustris, St. .John's Worts, Zephyr- anthes.Gentiana Andre wsi,BrythrfeaMuehlenbergi,Commelina coelestis, Cenfcaurea babylonica, Anchusa capensis, the blue Sea Holly (Bryngium ccerulescens), Michaelmas Daisies, Bpi- lobium sericeum, Liatris corymbosa. Monkshoods, Trop^olum speciosum, Lithospermura prostratum, the White Japanese Windflower (Anemone japonica alba), and Echinops ruthen- icus. FORMAL LEAF GARDENING. Tiro styles of ornamental leaf gardening are now fashionable — one, under the name of " carpet bedding," being used to obtain purely formal colour arrangements ; the other, popu- larly known as sub-tropical gardening, giving us something of the freedom, grace, and unrestrained aspects of plant form. The best carpet bedding we have seen this year is that in Mr. S. Ralli's garden at Cleveland House, Balham. The materials used in the planting of this now popular display (Mr. Ralli's garden having been thrown open to the public on Tuesdays and Fridays during September and October) are very taste- fully disposed, perhaps the most artistic combination being the little clumps of scarlet-berried Duckweed (Netora depressa) •which nestle on a soft carpet of Sedura glaucum fringed witli the bright green Sedura lydium. A circular basin-shaped bed is very tastefully planted with Nertera and glaucous Sedum around a fresh fountain-like specimen of Dracasna australis, which occupies the centre, the margin of the basin being fringed with a fretwork-like border of glaucous suc- culents, crimson Alternanthera, golden Mesembryanthemums, with single specimens ot the silvery-spined Chamaspeuce diacantha at intervals, the effect of the last-named being to give a very light and attractive appearance to the whole arrangement. A very good effect is obtained in a pair of oblong beds by contrasting the bright carmine-tinted Alter- nanthera amoena with a dwarf, donse-habited, green-leaved Mint (Mentha Pulegium gibraltarica), which Mr. Legg, the gardener, has used this season for the first time. Most visitors are struck by the wonderful evenness and exactness with which the parti-coloured patterns are here worked out. This result is obtained by varying the style of planting; for example, the dwarf-growing plants used are planted on raised, flat-topped mounds, while the taller-growing varieties are planted in sunk panels, and when the average height of growth of each plant is once .attained, this plan enables exact evenness of surface to be secured without much after labour in the way of clipping and pinching. The identical patterns of these beds are of far less moment than the materials of which they consist, as any o?io can readily vai'y the pattern or shape of their beds according to taste — a round bed or design being suitable in one case, while an oblong or triangular one mii'ht be best adapted for another. The best results are obtained where sub-tropical plants of stately habit are used in the centres of carpet beds — when the bright green foliage and gracehd habits ot Dracasnas, Wigandias, and other large- leaved plants are set off to the best advantage by a well- arranged margin of these coloured plants. One cannot have too much variety in the design of these carpet beds, and this ta,sto for originality may be freely indulged in, since the tone of colour in a pair of beds may bo the same, although the design in each may be different. Particular attention should always be paid to the outline of the beds, for the best arrange- ment of colours it is possible to conceive loses much of its beauty, whether it be in a picture or a flower-bed, if the frame of the one, or the outline of the other, bo of an inelegant contour ; it is a sure rule that the more pleasing t'ne form of each individual bed in a group the more attractive will be the whole arrangement of wliicb the different beds form a part. This ought to be self-apparent, and yet after having seen most of the carpet bedding arrangements in the neigh- bourhood of London, one can come to no other conclusion than that such is far from being the case, sameness and imitative formality being the rule rather than the exception — a result which may be attributed in some measure, however, to the employment of similar materials. If one thing has forced itself on our minds more than another during the present summer, it is the fact that dwarf fine-foliaged plants are much better suited for adding permanent masses of rich colour to gardens during summer than the host of Pelargoniums, Calceolarias, Lobelias, Verbenas, and other flowering plants hitherto used for that purpose. If we want the grace of noble plant-form or variety of colouring, we must use hardy, herbaceous plants and half-hardy or sub-tropical vegetation, always giving the preference to such kinds as will permanently luxuriate in our climate all the year round, rather than to such specimens as are plunged out in June to drag out a wretched existence and become damaged by rough winds and heavy rains. The following synopsis of the plants used in the carpet bedding arrangements here and in the London parks may be useful to those who wish to carry out the now prevailing fashion in warm, sheltered districts.: — Crimson and Purple — Coleus Verschaffelti improved, Iresine Lindeni, J. acuminata, Alternanthera amojna, A. a. spectabilis, A. a. magnifica, A. versicolor. Orange-red — Nertera depressa, Alternanthera paronychoides, A. p. major, A. amabilis, A. a. latifolia. Green — Tagetes signata pumila, Mentha Pulegium gibraltarica, Sedum lydium, H. acre. White — Antennaria tomentosa, Gna- phalium lauatum, Leucophyta Browni, Centaurea ragusina, C. r. compacta. Yelloiv — Pyrethrum Golden Feather, Mesem- bryanthemum cordifolium variegatum, Stellaria graminea aurea, Sedum acre aureum, S. anglicum. Glaucous — Sedum glaucum, Echeveria secunda, E. s. glauca, Gazania splendens, G. s. variegata, Veronica incana. B. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. Asteriscus maritima. — This is a dwarf-gi-owmg plant wbicb bears golden- rayed flowers, each oE which is as larjo as a florin. It is jast now very attrac- tive in Mr. Parker's Nnreery, and ought to he a-lded to every border of hardy floivers, beinjj a free-blooming and thoroughly effective, hardy plant. — B. Myosotis dissitiflora.— This lovely spring flower does not seed so freely ag the common Forget-me-not, and birds are apt to pic't up what seed it docs produce. We therefore lay our old stock of plants in on a north border when lifted in sprini^ in rows 1 ft. apart, and cover them with fish-nets. Thus situated they shod their seed on the soil, and by keeping it moist during summer wo have some thousands of good plants now to select from,— J. G, A Wet Climate Best for Clematis.— Clematises to be grown to perfection require to be very copiously supplied with water. In the wet climate of Dumfriesshire they grow and bloom with great Iniurianco even on direct north aspects, where they continue in great beauty to the end of October; but they grow and bloom beat of all when they are planted close to the door-etepa of a hothouse— just in the walks, with some soil supplied at planting time — where thoy are swilled with water regularly two or three times daily. They can do with any amount of water, provided it be not stagnant. — D. T. D. Brummond's Everlasting Pea.— In LathyrusDrummondi we have a fine red Everlasting Pea. The flowers are of a bright carmine-red hue, several flowers being borne on the stalks which spring from the axils of the leaf-ehoots. It isgrovvn by Mr. Greon, Hillfleld Nurseries, Reigate, who states it is very scarce. It is perfectly hardy, but requires a cool, shady, and somewhat flhel- tered position, as hot sun and drying winds tarnish the peculiar beauty of the flowers. It well deserves a place in a select collection of hardy perennia'B. — " Florist." Senecio pulcher from Root-cuttings — This plant, now opening its flowers in Mr. Parker's Nur.^ory at Tooting, is a stately species, the flowers of which are fully '-S in. in diameter, and of a rich crimson-purple colour with a yellow disc. The plant attains a height of from 15 in. to 18 in., the flower- stem bomg branched. It is not an annual, as has been supposed ; and as the seed rarely ripens in this country, the period of blooming being late, it may bo useful to know that it is readily increased by means of root -cuttings. — B. Variegated Plants from Seed.- The list of these given by "P. W. B." (ace p. 228) may no doubt bo largely extended, especially if coloured-leaved plants be included as variegated. Of really variegated-leaved plants, the hardy Variegated Cress comes remarkably true from see I, and it is one of the most useful of winter decorative and bedding plants. The now Variegated Tobacco now growing at Chinwick is another that is found to come true from seed, n* do also the pretty variegated Winter Kales. Then there are the fine pnrti-coloured Boots, and, not least. Dell's rich crimson-leaved Beet. Also the PeriUa, Amarantus tricolor, Centaurea ragusina, different forms of Cineraria roaritimd, Echeveria metallica, &c. These are all commonly known as variegated plants. —A. D. Sept. 2, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 236 THE FRUIT .GARDEN. FIGS ON OPEN WALLS. Although Figs have been grown in this country for hundreds of years, comparatively few people know what really well- ripened Figs are like, and in many cases there exists an un- founded prejudice against them. They are, however, both wholesome and prolific, and easily grown. In order to reap the full benefit of their continuous bearing habit they must of course be grown under glass; but on open walls or as standards, in favoured positions, their cultivation might be profitably ex- tended, inasmuch as they will succeed in soils too hard and poor for almost any other kind of fruit tree ; in fact, for open- air culture much depends upon providing such a root-run, for if planted in ordinary kitchen-garden soil, full of manure, the growth will be long;, soft, and watery, and liable to be easily affected by frost, whereas firm, short-jointed wood stands our ordinary winters without any covering, and invariably pro- duces abundance of fine fruit in autumn. We have good- bearing Fig trees here over 100 years old. They were origin- ally wall trees, but they had been allowed to extend until they formed wide-spreading standards, which in that state bore good crops. They were cut down to the ground about twenty years since, and the young growths have been again trained to the wall, on which they form large, vigorous, and prolific trees that look as youthful as ever ; in fact, like Vines, I believe that they may be considered young at 100 years old, as they are not liable to the weakening effects of insect attacks ; and if killed to the ground by frost, they spring up again with renewed vigour. The remark is often made that Figs do best without pruning or training ; and so they probably do if their habit, mode of bearing, and conditions under which they are placed be not taken into consideration. A Fig grower may be highly suc- cessful under glass, but if he adopts the same kind of treatment in the open air, he will assuredly get nothing but leaves and green fruit for his pains. By stopping the shoots of Figs under glass at the third or fourth leaf, we get excellent suoces- sional crops ; but if Figs be stopped on open walls, the young fruit on the current year's wood becomes too far developed to stand the winter, and thus there will be no crop the following year. Therefore never stop any shoots, except those which are to be cut out at the following winter's pruning. I have lately gathered from open walls some of the finest Figs I ever saw, and from a position, too, when we could not get other fruit trees to succeed. The wall in question looks full south. We dug deep pits within 3 ft. of its base in space which is used as a foot- path and gravelled, and consequently the soil over the Fig roots is very hard. Thus circumstanced, the trees make short, well-ripened wood, and the heat reflected from some glass pits built in front of the wall ripens the fruit from three weeks to a month earlier than in more open positions. This wall is never too hot for Figs, and we have some with even more restricted root-room that bear good crops if well soaked with water when the fruit is swelling, for if allowed to suffer from want of moisture, it is apt to drop prematurely. Figs should, therefore, be mulched over the roots, and a few thorough good waterings should be given them when they are in full growth. The pruning and training adopted is of the simplest kind ; in short, we only stop those shoots in summer that are getting bare at the base, and remove them entirely in the following spring. Figs must on no account be trained too thickly, as the foliage, which is large, must be fully exposed to light. I allow the current year's growths to grow away from the wall, as by nailing them in closely the embryo Figs are encouraged to swell, an occurrence which must be by all means avoided. A s a protection from frost the easiest method is to unnail all the shoots and lay them down by the base of the wall, where they should be covered with Fern, Spruce branches, &c. In spring what pruning they require may be given them and the branches firmly secured by strong ties at the proper distance apart, keeping up an equal distribution of young bearing wood from base to top. Fancy modes of training are not applicable to Fig culture. As regards sorts, the Brown Turkey is both trustworthy and prolific ; the White Marseilles is the finest kind, but it is not nearly so prolific. I have also lately planted Castle Kennedy and Black and Grizzly Bour- jassotte, but I cannot yet say whether or not they are acqui- sitions. Positions suitable for Figs occur everywhere, for their foliage is as handsome as that of many climbing plants, and the attention which they require is about the least needed by any kind of fruit tree, while the chances of a crop are all in their favour, as they are late in starting into growth, and con- sequently avoid that greatest of all drawbacks to hardy fruit culture — inclement springs. A hot, dry summer like the present, which is so disastrous to so many other kinds of crops, will give us, with a minimum of labour, an abundance of luscious Figs in autumn. James Groom. Henham Hall, SuffoJli. SMALL FRUITS IN TREE FORM. Many of our most prominent pomologista assert that fruit trees of every description succeed best in a hot, dry climate when allowed to branch from the ground ; that the action of the sun's rays on the long, naked trunk is highly injurious to the health and productive, ness of the tree. Some even go so far as to say that the Apple, the most trustworthy of American orchard trees, will yield a far larger profit and show a higher state of vigour when trained in the shape of a large bush ttan when trimmed up as a tall standard, and they bring such convincing proofs as the growing trees to sustain their arguments. That there is a great deal of truth in this reasoning, as well as notable exceptions to the rule, we are forced to admit, but the system, as a system, is correct, and should be more generally carried out by fruit-growers in training their young trees than it is. One of the most curious instances of the standard form yielding better results than the dwarf, is exemplified in the new standard Currants and Gooseberries now on exhibition at the Centennial grounds in Philadelphia. These pretty little trees, for they are exceedingly ornamental, were planted in one of the beds during the past spring, have received no extra care, either in mulching or watering, and yet they have made a fine growth in every instance, and perfected very large crops of superior fruit. An unanswerable argument in their favour so far is, that there has never been the least symptom of mildew either on foliage or fruit, but whether this feature will remain permanent has to be tested ; it seems really too good to prove trae. The stock used for standards is the common Missouri Currant (Ribes aureum), trained to a single stem, and it is astonishing how the grafts appear to favour this species. The originator claims that the influence of the root is what prevents mildew from appearing, and I see no cause to doubt his arguments, as seeing is certainly believing. These little trees are not entirely new in America, as they have been tested in New Jersey for several years past, and, so far, with the most complete success. It is indeed a novel and very ornamental sight to see these miniature trees with their weight of fruit depending from the branches, and, in some instances, with both Gooseberries and Currants in tiers one above another of the largest size. Josiah Hoopes. Gooseberries and Currants as Espaliers. — I saw a neat and excellent way of growing Gooseberries and Currants the other day at Coolhnrst Park. The kitchen gardens there are divided into the usual compartments, and at the margin of each quarter, running parallel with the walks, are small posts fixed several feet apart and about 3 ft. high, to these are strained three lines of stout iron wire, openings being only left at the corners, sufiSciently wide to allow a wheelbarrow to pass. The Gooseberries and Currants are planted 18 in. asunder, and three rods are carefully trained up the wires about 6 in. apart. These have reached the top of the trellis long ago, and are pruned on the close.spur system. Thus planted, they form an unbroken line from end to end, and present a very neat appearance, especially when loaded with fruit, which they were when I saw them on the 22nd of August. Prominent among the Gooseberries were the Warrington and the old-fashioned small Rough Eed. Gooseberries and Currants managed in this way occupy no more space than a row of Parsley ; the fruit can be gathered with, out having to step off the walks, and an ordinary length of netting dropped loosely over the top, touching the ground on both sides, acts as a thorough protection from birds. The trees in question have been planted about sixteen years, and judging from appearances they will keep in good condition for many years to come. — H. Hakris, Denne Gardens, Horsham. Victoria Nectarines at Welheck.— I have never seen this noble Nectarine so well grown as at Welbeck, and it wonld be useful to many of u8 if Mr. TiUery would kindly tell uB how be grows it 80 well. Tbe Walburton Admirable Peach also furnishes quantities of superb fruit in these noble gardens,— T. 236 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 2, 1876. TWO VIEWS OF HOLLAND HOUSE. We have several times alluded to the fact that sometimes one Bees the most pleasing effects near the house ou the side de- void of geometrical gardening. Where the house is surrounded by a series of geometrical gardens one is of course left without choice. At Holland House, however, we have, happily, on one Bide a simple green lawn with some fine trees not too near the house, and a straight walk along in front of the mansion. The wonder is that the designer should have spared so much simple boauty. If it be right to fortify one side of a house with elaborate geometry, why spare the other? The illustration of tlie pretty lawn front does not show the main charms of the lawn — its breadth and the sweet way in which it spreads away nnder the trees. Wc reproduce these illustrations from " Hol- land House," published by Messrs. IMaoraillan. The same thing is illustrated in many an English country seat, though un- happily the best side is frequently given to the stone, and banks, and water-squirting apparatus. COTTAGE GAEDENING. The Pear. 'The Pear is one of the hardiest and most vigorous of our fruit trees ; it is ca- pable of adapting itself to soil and situation even better than the Appl?. But the situation must be well drained, or there will be adiiKculty under any .sj-stem of manage- ment in maturing the wood. On deep dry soil, there is no necessity for working Pears on the Quince. It is on shal- low soils resting on wet cold clays which even when drained cause so much soft spray to be produced, that the value of this stock is seen and appreciated. In many respects there is a simi- larity between the treat- ment suitable for Pears and Apples; and much that I have written on the latter will be equally applicable to the former — as, for instance, the preparation of the soil before planting, and in the necessity of checking the descent of the roots into a bad subsoil, surface-mulching, especially where a surface-rooting, or, as in the case of the Quince,a moisture-loving stock is used. Summer pinching and thinningthe fruit are all Important mat- ters in Pear culture, and success will in a great measure depend upon the way in which they arc carried out. Pears are especially adapted for espalier training, and a good fruit-bearing tree is more quickly formed than even in the case of the Apple. But as the Apple does not easily assume a pyramidal outline, so the Pear is not readily converted into a dwarf standard. But where espalier training cannot bo adopted, the pyramidal is the best and most useful form. The trees should be planted 6 ft. apart, and may bo allowed ultimatolv to attain a height of 8 ft., which will be high enough for a small garden. Of course care must be taken that the tree is properly built up; as in the case of the espalier, if the leaders be allowed to grow too fast, the •o^'or part of the tree will not bo well furnished. A wire hoop fixed to three stout stakes will form a very good base for traniing. When the tree is first headed down after planting, the best and most centrally placed of the young shoots should be selected for tho leader and trained up vertically, and the others should be trained at equal distances apart horizontally, and hxed down to the wire to form the base. It is important that a good foundation should be secured to the future tree before the second tier of branches is formed, and this is entirely a matter of pruning and training. Much can be done in summer about the end of July by pinching a strong shoot or drawing its point downwards, and by that means driving the sap into the weaker branches. The leader may oe pinched when it has grown about 18 in., in order to throw the strength into tho lower buds. At tho second winter's pruning the leader must be cut back to within from 6 in. to 1 ft. of the base of the new wood, this depending entirely upon its strength and the strength of the tree generally. Again, the best shoot must be selected for the leader, and the others tied or linked down to the shoots made the pi-evious year. This course must be followed until the tree has attained its allotted size. If it have proved successful, the shape will be a perfect cone, with the points of the branches assummg a weep- ing orpendent form. In the event of a good selection a small plantation of pyramidal Pears will in the course of a few years turn out to be a most interesting and profitable experiment, involving but a slight expense and an inconsiderable amount of labour, and that, too, of an agreeable kind. Pinching a strong shoot, and drawing its point downwards at the proper time, calls rather for intelligent observation than practical skill, as the term is usually applied, and the man who has had no experience in fruit culture, if thoughtful and penetrating, may obtain as much suc- cess as the practical cul- tivator, especially it the latter be imbued with prejudice and precon- ceived notions, and too much given to rule-of- thumb work. The Apricot. In districts where the Apricot generally fails on the open wall it may often be seen flourish- ing against the gable end of a warmly situated cottage or farm-house. The chief drawbacks to the successful cultiva- tion of Apricots are unsuitable soil and an unfavourable climate — the latter usually exer- cising more influence than the former. But soil that is unsuitable may in a limited space be modified and altered in character at a tri- fling expense, while climate ma,y, to a certain extent, be ameliorated by shelter and selection of the most favourable sites for planting. It will, I think, be readily conceded that the walls of any dwelling or stable are more warmly situated, and conse- quently enjoy a better climate than most garden walls, especially where the latter are of a considerable length, with no arrangement, either temporary or otherwise, to counteract the effects of the keen cold currents that rush along their sides. In planting Apricots or other fruit trees against either cottages or farm buildings, the soil should first be thoroughly broken up at least G ft. in width from tho wall, and 2 ft. deep. It of fairly good quality, that is, neither clay nor sand, nor one in which either predominate to an injurious extent, and it the subsoil be dry, which in most oases it would be close to a dwelling-house, tho trees maybe safely planted without any addition whatever; and the fact of tho soil having been previously unoccupied by fruit trees will make their early growth rapid and vigorous. On very retentive soils, in order to insure tho health and fruit- fulness of the tree, it will be hotter to be content with a shallower border, and that might be raised (3 in. or so above the ordinary ground-level. Concrete 4 in. in depth should be placed over the bottom of the hole, resting on the firm, un- moved subsoil, to keep the roots from penetrating it, and to compel them to take a horizontal direction. Some efiorts Sept. 2, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 237 should be made to renew a portion of the soil where it is bad, and there is scarcely a place where a few barrowfuls of fresh turfy soil may not be had, if looked sharply after. "Whilst speak- ing of shallowborders,Imay say whoever adopts them should see that the trees do not suffer from drought in a dry season. The necessity for this has often been overlooked, and the trees have become stunted and starved without the cause being suspected. No doubt deep rooting, even on good soils, is a disadvantage in some respects, for the nearer the roots are to the surface the more manageable is the tree. Mulching and watering must not, however, be neglected, more especially when the trees are heavily cropped. It need hardly be stated that as water enters largely into the composition of all fruits, unless it is freely given in hot summers, the fruit must be small. It is the same with cultivated fruits as with domesticated animals, when in a wild state they can cater for themselves, but under more artificial con- ditions and circumstances their wants must be provided for. The best form of train- ing for all stone fruits is what is commonly termed the fan shape, and although we may take it as a general principle that the less the knife be applied to Apricots the better, still the tree must be headed back in its early stages to insure the necessary breaks for cloth- ing the bottom ; if this be not done the bottom of the wall will always remain in- differently furnished. Expe- rience has proved that a good deal may be accomplished in training by keeping the mid- dle of the tree always open, thus diverting the sap as much as possible to the lower limbs. I may refer the reader to what I have previously written in this article on summer pinch- ing. Often where Apricot and other stone fruit trees have been indifferently progressing, a dressing of lime and soot over the borders and lightly forked in has been found of great service to them. Lime rubble from old buildings might with advantage be mixed with the soil in plant- ing young trees of Apricots, Peaches, and Plums, as these fruits do best in a calcareous soil, and soot is a stimulant especi- ally invigorating and suitable without encouraging grossness of habit. It is also a very good remedy for nearly all insect pests, and may either be mixed with soft water, and syringed over the trees, or the trees maybe dusted with it in dull, showery weather. Of course this mode of application is not suitable after the fruit has reached a good size. But if insects be well kept down in spring, as they ought to be, there will be no necessity for using it afterwards. There are two main principles adopted by different cultivators in pruning and training the Apricot, Peach, and Plum with a view to fruitfulness : — One is to rely chiefly or wholly upon young wood laid in annually, and to disbud or remove all foreright shoots when only lin. or 2 in. long ; and the other, whilst not ignoring the expediency and the necessity for laying in young wood wherever there is room, consists in Geometucal Gaiden at Holland House. taking the chief crop from spurs growing on the front of the branches which have been encouraged to develop themselves by the system of pinching and pruning adopted. The latter is the plan most generally practised, and will, I think, be found most suitable for those who have not had the advantage of a special training in fruit culture. Whether it be on artificial or natural spurs, we have all one object in view, viz., to secure a crop of fruit, and that system that gives us the best chance of success with the least trouble must be undoubtedly the right one to adopt. But in either case the necessity for disbudding exists, and ought to be carefully attended to. Where the crop is taken indis- criminately from spurs, both on the young and old branches, the disbudding in spring should be limited to thinning out the young shoots that push in pro- fusion all over the tree. This should be done when the shoots are an inch or so long, when they can easily be rubbed off with the thumb and finger, without running any risk of leaving any permanent wound in the bark of the branch; pinching or summer pruning will afterwards be an important item in successful manage- ment, but to this I have al- ready referred very fully. The Peach and Heetarine. Peaches are not commonly grown in small gardens. Perhaps to the unskilled fruit-grower their pruning and training present more difficulties than other kinds of fruits; but when the principles of disbudding and summer pruning have been mastered, there should be no other serious difficulty. Given a good border 2 ft. deep, free from stagnant moisture, with the bottom made impervious to the roots, wherever the subsoil is unsuitable, the whole future of the tree depends upon keepiug down insects, thinning the fruit, and in carefully regulating the spring and summer growths. These are matters that an average amount of intelli- gence, rightly directed, will find no difficulty in success- fully carrying out. What is termed disbudding is simply removing the surplus shoots in spring, when about an inch or so long, and in that stage they can easily be pinched off with the thumb and finger. Its object is to concentrate the strength and force of the tree into, comparatively speaking, a few channels, leaving only as much young wood as can find room for full development. If the branches be too thickly placed the wood will not only be weak, but will probably be imperfectly ripened, with the usual accompanying result of weak and imperfect flowers. In cold situations disbudding must be cautiously done. If a tree be denuded of too much foliage at one time, it chills the system too much, and any check in early spring always makes the trees more susceptible to the attacks of green and black aphides. It is best to commence by remov- ing a few of the foreright shoots — that is, the shoots that break direct from the front of the branches ; in a few days 238 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 2, 1876. some more may be taken o£E, and so on, going over them frequently, until all ■wood not reqnired for the next year's crop is removed. Some cultivators lay a good deal of stress upon selecting the shoots that are to bear the crops of fruit next year on the upper sides of the branches. It should be under- stood that the young shoot should be left as close to the bottom of each fruit-bearing branch this year as possible, for the purpose of fruiting next ; and in a well-balanced tree, well filled up at the autumn or winter pruning, the shoot that bore the fruit this year should be cut off, to allow the young one to take its place, and so the tree will be annually renewed with bearing wood. With reference to the principle I have alluded to of always laying in the young shoot on the upper side of the branch, whether it has or has not any influence upon the well-being of the tree, it certainly tends to impress upon the mind the importance of working according to system, and so far it may be an advantage. Having decided which shoot is to bear the crop next year, all the others should be gradually removed to give room to lay it in j the leader alone should remain ; but if the tree have covered its allotted space, that also should be pinched back to four or five leaves, but a few must be left beyond the fruit at the end of the shoot to cause the sap to circulate, otherwise the fruit will not swell properly, but will probably drop off prematurely. In some cold districts the Peach, instead of being closely disbudded in the way I have described, has only some of the shoots thinned out and the others pinched back to three or four leaves, which not only forms a shelter to the young fruit, but also in unfavourable situations gives two chances of securing a crop, for the Peach will fruit on artificial spurs as well as the Apricot or Plum. Pruking the Peach. — As soon as the fruit is gathered, all the small shoots should be unnailed, and all the fruiting wood cut back to the point whence the young wood starts ; unless there are vacancies to fill up, there is no occasion to wait for the falling of the leaves to do this, as I believe the sooner this is done in autumn the better the young wood will ripen ; but shortening of the young wood had better be delayed till February for two reasons :— First, because after the buds have swelled a little there will be no difficulty in distinguishing the flower-buds from those that produce wood only, and it is im- portant to cut each shoot back to a wood-bud, as without a leader the fruit, even if it set, will be flavourless ; and secondly, leaving the shortening tiill the buds are pushing, and leaving the tree unnailed till the last moment, has a tendency to retard its flowering, and a few days' delay in the case of severe weather sometimes saves the crop. The young wood should be cut back one-third, one-half, or two-thirds, according to its strength and firmness ; always cut back to well-ripened wood. The Plum. There is scarcely any fruit so accommodating as to soil or situation as the Plum, and not only has it these advantages, but if the fruit bo thinned out when the trees arc overloaded, and only known good and prolific kinds planted, it is a pro- fitable crop to grow. The Plum tree is not so long-lived as the Apple or Pear, but it comes sooner into bearing. The wind is often destructive to old standard trees, for as age creeps on them the branches become more brittle. When this is the case, if the main trunk be healthy, I have often seen new life and vigour infused into old trees by heading them down, as they break readily out of the old wood. If this heading-down process be extended over two or three years, the trees will scarcely feel the check, and the gradual thinning will prevent the total loss of the crop, as the young wood on an old tree commences bearing immediately. But dwarf trees are the best to plant in small gardens ; they bear well when trained in the bush or pyramidal form, and small or moderate- sized trees are easily protected when large trees must take their chance. So far as profit is concerned, I believe a planta- tion of Victoria Plums will yield a larger return for the outlay than any other crop, but for home consumption it will be advisable to add a few other kinds in order to extend the season of bearing. As wall trees. Plums will grow and bear well on any aspect, and it often happens that trees on a north aspect will bear abundantly, when those on other aspects fail ; this is due in some measure to late blooming, and also to the gradual rise of temperature on a north aspect after a cold, frosty night in spring. The sun does as much harm as frost if its r.ays fall on a frost-smitten tree early in the morning, and it is in the shade impirted by a thin flimsy covering warding off the sun's rays in the early morning that a crop has been saved as much as by the protection afforded from frost. The pruning, training, and summer management of the Plum so much resemble those already given for the Apricot, that I need not refer to them at greater length here. The Cherry. The May Duke and the Morello are the kinds best suited for a small garden ; they may bs grown in the bush form on the Mahaleb stock or fan-trained on a wall. In a warm corner against a wall the May Duke comes in early and often bears profusely. Not far from where I am writing there is a May Duke Cherry against the front of a cottage ; I believe when it was planted little or no preparation was made for it, and the immediate space over its roots is partly paved and gravelled; yet the crop of fruit that the tree annually bears is something marvellous. No doubt the soil is suitable, and the hard, firm surface has much to do with its prolific habit. What I have seen in this way leads me to the conclusion that there cannot be a greater fallacy in fruit culture than to suppose that it is necessary to dig and delve over or amongst roots. It may do no harm the first few years, or rather I should say, no perceptible injury is done, but if anything beyond a surface cultivation be carried on it must drive the roots downwards. When once a tree settles down into a bearing condition the roots should not be disturbed in any way, and no implement beyond the hoe should be used during summer, and where a little mulching can be put on in spring the use of the hoe may become unnecessary. What we require in a fruit tree is a medium annual growth — in fact, just a fair amount ot extension in order to keep up the tree's health and vigour. And this is best secured by a firm soil and light annual top- dressing, but no manure should be placed in contact with the roots, as the chances are the growth will become too gross, and if so, farewell to fruit bearing till the tree has been lifted and root-pruned. It is better to avoid the necessity for this if it can be done, which it may be, by a fine soil and judicious summer pinching. The Morello is a very prolific Cherry, seldom fails to bear, and is especially adapted for a north aspect. In September, when the fruit is ripe, it is often worth from Is. to Is. 6d. per lb., and the trouble required is but small. The fruit is produced on the young wood, and the disbudding and pruning recommended for the Peach are quite suitable for this Cherry. One of the chief faults in its management, observable almost everywhere, is laying in too much wood. Overcrowding the wood does not produce more fruit, but the reverse, and it tends also to debilitate the tree, and is often the cause of branches dying off in summer. E. HOBDAV. HrBRIDIZATION OF THE STRAAVBEERY. By E. W. DURAND. The first step is experiment j oombinationa must be mide to asoer. tain the qualities that will harmonise. You mast fiod out the nature of the material with which you have to deal. You will per. ceive this lirat step requires yeara of trial and trouble, yet with a kuo-.vlcdgo of the general results of combination, you are masters of the situation; every stop ia a step in advance. Of course experi- ments must be auffioiently oxtensivo to cover any chance of a back- ward step. With a knowledge of the qualities ot varioua plants, and the effect ot their oombiuatioua, you may proceed with the plants in pairs — a staminate or perfect tlower with a true pistillate, at snfH- cient distance tiom other planta to insure isolation. With a number of couplea judiciously solootod, you will be able to procure trust- worthy plants for next year's oombinationa. Pursue this oonrss persistently, and although you will meet with suflioieat vexation and trouble you will be rewarded iu the end. Do not employ the same plants or the same parentage too long, introduce new blood as often as possible, but not without auflioiont knowledge ot their (Mialitiea (by previous acquaintance) to make your combinations Bomewhat certain. The greatest dependence must be upon the pistillatea ; and while propagating from those you know to be trustworthy, it is well to try the prominent new varieties iu the way ot staminates, and be sure of tboir qualities befoi'O employing Set. 2, 1876.] THE GARDEN. S39 them as breeders. I would not advise the planting of the seed the same year as produoad, there not being sufficient time to determine anything ; you may get some plants snffioiently forward to bear the next year, but it will be by a forced, immature growth, that will mis- lead rather than give an estimate of true worth. My own plan has been to wash the seed well, dry it thoroughly, place each kind iu a paper separately, number it, register the combinations, and place it in the seed-chest until spring. By this management the plants may attain sufficient size and age to bear naturally and properly the first year of planting. Great care must be exercised iu the selections the first year, as it is almost impossible to determine which are valuable. The worthless ones of course are thrown out, the rest retained for years of trial. The pistillatea are to be selected and subjected to various teats for future use; their qualities noted,watched, and changes registered, before any safe conclusion can be arrived at; meantime the new combinations are to be considered. Of course, when pro- duced they mnst be kept separately from the others, otherwise you will be unable to determine the effect of the various cross- ings. Another year brings new combinations, these again are to be separated from all others, and so on year after year, each adding new complications and subjects, requiring intense application and study that each step may be progressive, each year adding a link to the chain by which you are to arrive at the true theory of propagation. Some estimate of the labour involved in this matter may be arrived at by a retrospective view of the ground I have been over, commenc- ing with a theory of my own, and wholly at variance with that pro- posed by the late Mr. Seth Boyden in the year 1859. The first year I made two crossings, since which time I have increased to hundreds and thousands of experiments. I generally produce 2000 or 3000 new varieties each year — sometimes more, sometimes leas — and have still under trial varieties originated in 1862, and from that time some from nearly every year since. From the mass of my productions, about 50,000 varieties, I have selections that keep my atook at between 2000 and 3000 varieties continually on hand. These, with my seedlings, and prominent leading favourites, keep me always busy. A word of advice may be appropriate here to any engaged in this matter, who are not fully aware as to what may be necessary in the way of production that would demand attention, and to those also who have acquired the idea that large berries are deficient in flavour and inferior to small onea. That there have been many large kinds thrown upon the market, valued alone for their size, I am well aware ; but that size has anything to do with flavour, I do not believe, except that a naturally small berry may be forced by stimulants to a large size, in which case even those of fine flavour will surely be tasteless. But with this we have nothing to do ; it is those naturally large to which I allude, and which under proper conditions are as rich and finely flavoured as may be desired. The Black Defiance, for instance, originated in 1862, and exhibited at the great Waverley Strawberry exhibition against hundreds of competitors, although the largest beriy there, was awarded the first prize as being the richest and highest-flavoured ; and with my experience, I have never found any difierence in flavour on account of size. New productions, to bo of value, should measure from 4 in. to 8 in. in circumference, and should be of good form, colour, and flavour : very large apecimena are not expected to be perfect in form, yet those of medium size should always be. The calyx should never be im- bedded in the flesh, which should be sufBoiently flrm to carry well and be able to withstand all changes of our variable climate. The texture should be fine, flesh rich, with a moderate amount of acid, no more than sufficient to make it palatable with sugar as a table berry. The plant ahould be hardy, vigoroua, large, and strong ; of great endurance as to climatic change, and able to stand any amount of manure of the right kind. It should be a prolific bearer, with stalks of sufficient length to keep the fruit out of the dirt, and should bear its berries of nearly uniform size to the end. Any aerious departure from such necessary qualities would be fatal to any new variety. From this stand-point one may judge how slight would be the chances of any accidental production. I have selected hundreds upon hun- dreda of new planta apparently superior to anything known, and have been compelled to throw them out in consequence of some slight de- ficiency, while in many desirable qualities they were perfect. As prominent instances of this kind I will mention one or two. Some ten years ago I selected for cultivation a plant producing immense berries with the idea that I should astonish the world ; they were of such a size that people supposed they were Tomatoes. It was a profuse bearer, with very few email berries, and every desirable quality, except that of flavour ; of course it was worthless. Another, seemingly with every desirable quality, waa found to be gaining in fruit at the expenae of foliage. I thought nothing of this trouble at first, but years of experience have convinced me of the folly of depending upon such plants. Time after time I have subjected such to various tests. Stimulate the foliage, it would be at the expense of the fruit ; urge it' to fruit, its foliage would fail. They are simply deficient in vitality, and should be abandoned at once. It is the inevitable fate of originators to meet with continual trials and vexations of this kind. I am acquainted with those who have been spending the greater part of their lives in this very thing, and yet have never produced anything of real value. An instance occurs to me of this kind, in the case of a friend and very prominent man in fruit culture. I questioned him as to his mode of proceed, ing : his reply waa that he sowed the seed of the berries he exhibited, without regard to sex. He never did produce anything, and never would in that way, should he live a thousand years. My time- honoured friend and neighbour, the late Mr. Seth Boyden, to whom the Strawberry world is really indebted, was for several years inclined to question my mode of propagation by pairs, while he pursued a different course : that of placing a row of pistillates of various kinds, and a similar row of staminates of perfect flowers near them, as offering a greater opportunity for variety. He afterwards acknow. ledged to me that he was wrong ; and in speaking of a friend who was pursuing this course said he might go on in that way aa long as he lived, and get nothing in the end. I repeat, if there be so little likelihood of valuable production under such care, what chance may remain for those who plant anything and expect wonders to grow out of it ? It ia aimply a waste of time and labour, ending in disappoint- ment. My object in this matter ia to do away as much as possible with this useless proceeding. For those who commence at all, I would say, commence rightly, and you will be on the road to succeaa j otherwise, never. My course ia to select my pistillatea after yeara of trial, aubject to severe tests, place them alongside such staminatea as I think wiU harmonise with them and produce a certain desired effect. Another pistillate, the same aa the last, ia placed far from the last, with a different staminate, and so on until I exhaust the staminates I wish to test with that variety ; of late years I have used but two or three kinds of pistillate plants. These last are a combination of excellence. A slight repetition may be necessary here in order to enable those interested to see the way clearly by giving an outline of the different causes pursued. The first ia the general or false course. It is the one almost invariably taken, and consists in sowing the seed of any fine berry. If a staminate or hermaphrodite, of course it is self-fertilized, producing an inferior berry of the same character. If piatillate, fertilized by what P Anything, perhapa the pooreat atam. inate in the whole collection ; and, undoubtedly, if some of its pistils should receive pollen from the beat in the bed, it would be in harmony or anpply the varioua deficiencies. Now, as to the general course, that pursued by Mr. Seth Boyden and others, and which con- sists in having a row of pistillates of varioua kinds and a similar row of staminates ; in this way the chancea of success are increased. One may make a successful combination, but how are you to deter- mine what this combination may be, and how are you to judge of effect in the way of progression, aa essential to success ? One may gueaa, but there is no certainty, while the chancea are, that being improperly grouped, every one may prove unfortunate. Not ao with the true method, that of propagating by paira, each parent of which is possessed of certain distinctive features. The result is apparent ; you pass from one to another and note the result. One ia enabled to draw certain deductions. In future years exceptions are noted and general action corroborated, by carefnl and judicious selections one's progress is certain ; and although one may meet with all manner of vexatious disappointments, it is nothing in comparison with the muddle one is sure to get in by an indefinite course ; and in this, as in all things, by a well-directed perseverance one may surely attain the desired result. That I have drawn a not very encouraging picture for beginners, I am well aware ; that I shall discourage numbers, I am equally well aware. Tet I am not disposed to hold out encouragements without a solitary chance of success. That there are hundreds experimenting in a hap -hazard, chance kind of away in this matter, I believe ; yet in the present condition of things, that they may produce anything of value is, to say the least, extremely problematical. That the art is yet in its infancy, I also believe, but that it requires something more than the slipshod, disorganised manner of general propagation to bring it out, I am firmly of opinion. That it requires intense study in the way of experimental combination, those having experience will no doubt willingly testify ; also, that to ensure succesa it requires an instinctive appreciation of the principles and properties of piantsand their combinations as eaaentials. Our Friends and Foes.— In all the rural districts of France a proclamation has been posted on the signboards and at the corners of the roada, headed with the imposing title, "Ministry of Agriculture." This placard, which ia intended for the guidance of 240 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 2, 1876. the French cultivator, reads a3 follows : — " Hedgehog : Lives on mice, small rodents, slugs, and grubs, animals hurtful to agriculture. Do not kill the hedgehog. Toad — cultivator's assistant : destroys from twenty to thirty insects an hour. Do not kill the toad. Mole : is continually destroying grubs, larvte, palmer-worms, and insects injurious to agriculture. No trace of vegetation is ever found in its stomach. Does more good than harm. Do not kill the mole. May- bug and its larvaj or ginb : Mortal enemy of agriculture; lays froin seventy to eighty eggs. Kill the May-bug." This notice also depre- cates the destruction of small birds, which are, according to the authority of the Minister of Agriculture, the only allies on which the cultivator can depend for the extirpation of vermin. Children are warned to abstain from birds'-nesting, and are at the same time advised that they will be paid tweaty-five centimes for every 500 May-bugs which they may place in the hands of the garde chainpctre. It remains, of course, to be seen what effect this ministerial edict will produce. We may add that in some parts of this country — the Eastern Counties for instance — blackbirds have this season been driven, through waut of insect food, to attack hardy fruits, which, where not netted, are being eaten up. Even unripe Pears do not escape their depredations. The Fruits of California. — In Mr. Downing's noble work on the "Fruits and Fruit Trees of America," just come to band, we find the following note on the state of fruit culture on the Sierras. Since the publication of the recent edition of this book, the author has visited California, and his observations in that newly developed region have elicited the facts that fruit trees grow much faster there, and come into bearing much earlier than with us, and it may be fairly inferred, therefore, that they will not be as long-lived. The same varieties of Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Apricots, Cherries, &c., are grown as with us; but all kinds of fruit, especially some kinds of Apples, do not succeed equally well as in the Eastern States. The following sorts were considered most profitable : Williams' Favourite, Early Strawberry, Ked Astrachan, Early Harvest, Wine- sap, Eawles' Janet, Boston Russet, White Winter Pearmain, Smith's Cider, Yellow BelloSeur: Newtown Pippin beat and most profitable ; the Northern Spy and Baldwin had failed. The fruit is rather larger, fairer, and handsomer, and the quality equally good, except Strawberries and Blackberries, which were not quite as high, flavoured. Grapes are grown extensively in many localities, and succeed admirably. They are grown in the open air, without protec- tion, requiring but little labour compared with our system of cul- tivation. They are grown in the tree form on stems or stumps from 2 ft. to 3 ft. high, and those from ten to fifteen years old are from 5 in. to 6 in. in diameter. The Vines are planted from 7 ft. to 8 ft. apart, each way. They are pruned annually back to the stems, and when the new shouts have grown 5 in. or 6 in., all are thinned out, except ten or twelve of the strongest, and in most vineyards they receive no further care till gathering time, except to keep the ground clean. In some orchards that had been neglected, the trees were failing, and I was told that if the ground were not cultivated and the trees cared for, they soon died. We found Figs abundant and of fine quality in nearly every locality we visited. English Walnuts, or Madeira Nuts, Almonds, and Olives are grown successfully in most places. The Lavender Crop. — The late excessive heat baa had a good effect on Lavender, which promises to be unusually abundant this year. A correspondent of one of the daily papers recommends those who have seen and admired the tlovver farms of Provence — and ho might have added those of Tetuan and Tangiers — to pay a visit to tho Lavender fields planted about half a century ago outside the town of Uitchin. Mitcham, in Surrey, likewise enjoys old-established celebrity, not only for tho extensive cultivation of this useful plant, but for the preparation of oil of Lavender, which, as all of us know, forms a highly important article of commerce. Not half so much attention is paid by the public at large to Lavender as it deserves. Of the differeut species which have baen described by botanists only two are commercially valuable, tho common Lavender (Lavandula vera) and tho French Lavender (L. spica). Tho former yields the fragrant oil, the solution of which in spirits of wine is called Lavon der Water; while tho latter is used by painters on porcelain, aud in the preparation of certain varnishes. Still Lavender has a right to complain of the slight amount of popular homage paid to it. The truth must be told — it is going out of fashion. Yet chemists declare that Lavender ilowors constitute no less than 10 per cent, of tho ingredients in Eau do Cologne, the romaining components being Ualm, Mint, Marjoram, Tliyme, llosemary, Hyssop, Wormwood, Angelica, Ciirdamoms, Juniper berries, Anisofennel, Caraway seeds, Ciimamon, Nutmegs, Cloves, Orange peel. Jasmine, Esaenco of liuscs, and Bergamot. It is at the same time questionable whether this wonderful combination can in the long run approach in simple fragrance our good old Eugligh Lavender Water. FIj^TE SZXXVI, SELECT MA.SDEVALLIAS. By F. W. BURBIDGE. A\''i-: have here a group oE some seventy or more Alpine Orchids from the New World, most of them of the neatest possible habit, and their flowers are in some cases very large in pro- portion to the size of the plants. Nearly all are natives of tho Andes, of New Granada, Colombia, and Peru, aud are for the most part found at considerable elevations above the sca-levcl, one or two indeed approaching tho snow-line, but scarcely so near as Bpidendrum frigidum and the purple-spotted Oncidium jiubigenum ; one species, M. floribunda, is a native of Mexico. The genus Masdevallia is a very characteristic one, having been coustituted by Ruiz and Pavon as long ago as 17i^l, the first species so named being M. unidora, a little Peruvian plant. The three outer lobes of the perianth or sepals are nearly always connate or fused together at the base, aud their points are very often elongated into slender tails. The petals and lip are very small, resembling those of Pleurothallis, and nearly always hidden down in the tube formed by the connate sepals. In some species the lip is balanced on a delicate hinge, after the manner of the pseudo-bulbous Bolbophyllums, a devioo which may possibly tend to their being duly fertilised by insect agency. Masdevallias are amongst the most easily cultivated of all Orchids ; they succeed well with the Pescatorean and erispod- petalled Odontoglossums ; indeed, some species are found in the same zone with the Odontoglossums, but as a rule the Masde- vallias occupy a zone above both them and Oncids. They, however, succeed well together in our gardens. On the high- lauds of Peru and New Granada Masdevallias attain an alti- tude of 9000 ft. to 10,000 ft. above the sea-level, and are exposed to varied and often very sudden changes of temperature. In growth they are neat aud compact, occupying but little space, and they last in flower for several weeks, or often, months at a time ; indeed, when well managed, they will keep on growing and flowering nearly all the year. Many of the species of Masdevallia bear comparatively large, brilliantly-coloured flowers, — some of glowing scarlet, like a bar of red-hot iron ; others of the sofest silvery lake, purple, red, yellow, green, or of the purest white ; and tho plants themselves are of remarkably free and rapid growth when cultivated in a cool, moist temperature. Some Mas- devallias, though interesting, are scarcely worth cultivating for then- blossoms ; such is M. civilis, a green-flowered kind, while other dingy species, M. caudata and M. ooriacea, large masses of which have recently been imported and sold at Stevens', also have greenish flowers, and are quite destitute of fragrance. If we were requested to name the six most distinct and beautiful of all the Masdevallias in their order of merit we should certainly select the following : — M. Veitchi, M. Harryaua, M. Davisi, M. ignea, M. amabilis, and M. tova- riensis, without which indeed no collection of these plants is complete. Those who wish to study tho small-flowered and less showy, but equally interesting species from a botani- cal point of view, should refer to M. Edouard Morren's enumeration or monograph in the " Belgique Horticole " for 1873, p. 0.53, which serves as an admirable index to descrip- tions aud figures of all known species of Masdevallias. Propagation. The propagation of Masdevallias has hitherto been mainly effected by the division of strong and healthy plants. Like Cattleyas and many other Orchids, Masdevallias have thick, fleshy, oblong, linear, or spatulate leaves, borne on an elongated petiole (wliich in this genus, however, is not swollen out into a pseudo-bulb as in the Cattlcya), and each leaf-stalk has a bud at its base. Most of the strong-growing kinds are freely pro- jjagated, each single leaf with the growing bud at its base soon forming an established plant if carefully separated with a root or two and potted oil' into small pots of peat and living Sphag- num Moss. Some of the species, such as M. ignea and M. llarryana, have been imported so plentifully that there has been but little occasion to cut up plants for propagating pur- poses, as they have been sold at Stevens' rooms at very reason- able prices. Seedling Masdevallias have been raised ia thia >-:-ap':leK-ent to The Garden, Otfioe: J/;, Southampton Street, Cover.t Garden. Lordon, ¥/: .^^ MASDEVALLIA LINDENI. Sept. 2, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 241 couniry, but none have as yet bloomed. In order to obtaia seeds artificial fertilization is necessary, and owing to the smallness, and in some cases inaccessible position, of the anther-case and stigmatic surface, some little delicacy and ingenuity are requisite in order to succeed. Keference to the illustration inserted below may render the matter more simple to all who may ivish to commence fertilizing or hybridizing Masdevallias or other Orchids. Fig. 1 represents the column, and at the upper end of this organ, common to all Orchids, is situated the anther-case {a), both back and front views of which are here shown. This anther-case forms a cap, and contains the round, waxy masses of pollen {d) ; by lifting up the little case or cap {a) from the end of the column either with a toothpick or other pointed instrument, the pollen masses, which are scarcely the size of Millet seeds, will fall out. If the toothpick be dipped in the nectar of a Fuchsia or other flower, the pollen will stick to the point and can then be transferred to the stigmatic surface, which is a glutinous cavity situated just beneath the anther-case or cap, and separated from it by the top of the column, and in some Orchids, as in Vanilla, Angrascum, &c., by an elastic membrane, the object of which is to prevent the pollen falling over into the stigma, and thus to render either artificial fertilization or hybridization necessary. After the pollen is thrust into the 1. Column showing anther case (a), wliich contains the pollen masses (&) and stigmatic surface (e) ; d are the pollen masses enlarged. 2, Seed-pod, natural size, and section of the same enlarged. stigmatic cavity, the latter in many cases (notably in the case of Odontoglossum and Phalasnopsis) closes up, the two sides clasping over firmly, so that nothing short of actual force and mutilation can remove the pollen. This seems to be a wise provision to prevent the pollen being dragged from the stigma by insects or damaged by rain or other moisture after the floral segments or envelopes decay, which they do immediately on fertilization being accomplished, and the ovary or seed-vessel (2) at once commences to increase in size. It is advisable to save seed only from strong and well-established plants, and one seed-pod on a plant is amply sufficient. Every care must be taken to keep the seed-bearing plants in a robust and healthy condition, otherwise the seed-pods will ripen prematurely, and the seeds will all prove abortive. This is a very important point, which many who attempt to raise seedling Orchids are apt to overlook. When the seed ripens the seed-pod assumes a brown colour, and the valves of the capsule split open, show- ing a multitude of light brown sawdust-like seeds within inter- mixed with woolly fibres. The best time to sow the seeds of Masdevallias and other Orchids is as soon as they are ripe, and the best medium on which to sow them is an Orchid-pot covered with fresh living Sphagnum Moss, which must never be allowed to become dry, or the safety of the embryo plants wiU be very much endangered. All Orchid seeds germinate best in a warm and humid temperature ; indeed, if once the germinating seeds become dry, it is a fatal mishap, for they never recover, Culture. The culture of nearly all the Masdevallias is so simple and inexpensive that these, together with Odontoglossums, are the best of all Orchids for amateur cultivators. They grow best in a cool and humid atmosphere and like Odontoglossums and Disas cannot endure bright or direct sunshine. A winter temperature of from 55° to 60° suits them admirably, and during the hottest of summer weather the nearer the ther- mometer can be kept at from 65° to 70° the better, for Masdevallias, like many other Orchids from elevated localities in both the New and Old Worlds, are often injured when grown under glass by our dry hot summers. A cool and moisture- laden atmosphere, with ample, bat not draughty ventilation at night as well as during the daytime, is the best treatment for Masdevallias and Odontoglossums, with which they are in general associated in our gardens. Some growers, however, like Mr. Day at Tottenham, and Messrs. Veitch at Chelsea, have houses especially devoted to these charming little plants. A compost of fresh fibrous peat, having a small addition of dried horse-droppings and turfy loam, suits them admirably ; and it will be found best in practice to pot them in small pots, thoroughly well drained, for like most other Orchids, they require liberally supplying with moisture when growing, both at the roots and in the atmosphere ; but it the compost be- come sour or stagnant through bad drainage, they will speedily succumb. Mix a fair proportion of coarse river-sand with the compost above recommended, and cover the surface of the pots with living Sphagnum. Some growers use the ordinary white sand, but this is much too fine, and allows the compost to becomesoddenandsourtoo soon. Iwould here remark that living Sphagnum is one of the best natural tests that can be used to ascertain the humidity of the atmosphere. I never saw it grow freely in any hot-house that was not well adapted for the requirements of Orchids ; it soon dries up and dies in a hot, arid atmosphere, but will luxuriate in almost any heat, provid the atmosphere be kept constantly humid. Overpotting is an evil to be guarded against in the culture of all Orchids, but especially so in the case of these plants. Living Sphagnum Moss is an important ingredient in the compost of all the cool-growing Orchids, as it preserves an equable state of moisture about the roots, and at the same time afi:ords them just the sort of shade and shelter they like. Slugs are very fond of the young growths of Masdevallias, and these pests must be carefully guarded against. When growing it^is next to impossible to 'give^these plants too much Veitch's Masdevallia (H. Teitchi), moisture at the root or in the atmosphere. Pure, bracing, moisture-laden air, with heavy dews at night, and often heavy rains, are their natural conditions on the New Granadian and Peruvian Andes, and these conditions, imitated as nearly as may be, conduce to their vigour in our gardens. Veitch's Masdevallia (M. Veitchi). — 0£ all the Masdevallias this is undoubtedly the finest, and it was the great beauty of this plant which induced the demand for other species among amateurs. 242 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 2, 1876. It is a native of the Pemvian Andes, and it is not yet surpassed in beauty by aoy of the other kinds. The plant is a robust grower, and bears its large solitary flowers at different seasons of the year, but generally in the spring, the individoal blooms being fully 3 in. in length, and of a brilliant orange colour, the outer halves of the lower sepals being set with deep bluish.pnrple hairs, and the effect of this thin Tel vet-like pile is to give an indescribable richness and inimitable brilliancy of colouring, every change of position or light adding new beauties to the flower. M. Veitchi grows freely in a cool Odontoglossum-honse during the summer months; and, in addition to an abundant supply of moisture in the atmosphere, requires copious waterings at the root. During the winter a Cattleya-house, where the temperature does not fall below 55°, is the best place for it, but at no time, summer or winter, must it bo allowed to become dry at the root. It was thought at one time that this plant would ultimately form large specimens in great pans, and produce from twenty to thirty flowers in a single plant, bnt Masde. vallias always develop to the best advantage when grown in very small pots, and soon show signs of decay if overpotted ; and it is a singular fact that large masses rarely continue in health long, and require great care in watering, otherwise they rot in the centre or where the growths are most crowded. The best way to obtain large specimens of these plants, either for exhibition or decorative pur. poses, is to grow a number of plants in small pots, and these ran easily be grouped together in a pan when in bloom, and the pots concealed with a layer of fresh Moss. Harry Veitcll's Masdevallia (JI. Harry ana). —This plant, Harry Veitcll's Masdevallia (il. Harryana' whilst being one of the most robust and floriferous of all the species in the geuus, is also plentiful in our gardens. It is one of the most variable of the species in cultivation, the colour of the flowers ranging from a bright silvery lilac through all the shades of purple to a deep rich crimson. When well grown it is but little inferior to M. Veitchiana in bcanty, but it is quite different in colour. The flowers are abont 2 in. in breadth, the extreme length of the tails bein? from •i in. to 4 in. in length. They are borne singly on scapes 1', ft. to 2 ft. in height. The leaves vary from G in. to 12 in. in length, and are of a bright green colour. Tho large specimens of this plant, bearing from twenty to thirty flowers, sometimes seen at flower shows, are obtained by growing plants in small pots, each of which bear from three to six flowers, and these are plunged together in a large pot or pan of Sphagnum Moss for exhibition purposes. It is right to explain this plan, because amateurs, seeing these large spe- cimens apparently growing and flowering luxuriantly in large pots, attempt to grow their plants permanently in the same manner, which generally results in failure. Lindeii'sMasdevallia(M.Lindeni).— This plant is undoubtedly nothing more than a distinct form of the last-named kind which it resembles in habit and time of flowering, The blooms are generally smaller and the colour is always a glowing silvery lilac, a tint which Tip to the present it seems impossible to obtain in lithographic print- ing. Tho plant grows well in small pots treated like its congeners, and is certainly one of tho most attractive kinds in the whole group °"/ 5 n //^'"■°'^'y. "^oes justice to the plant in point of colour, indeed, all the species which have iridescent or glowing colours are a. perpetual fctumbling.block to artists and colour printers. Like tho last-named, this splendid variety is a native of the upland regions of Colombia, and it well deserves a place in the most select collection of these charming plants. Davis' Masdevallia (JI. D.ivisi). — This is a most free-floweriug species from Peru, and was first exhibited by Messrs. Veitch & Sons in 1875, the specimen bearing twenty fully developed flowers. The Davis' Golden Masdevallia (M. Davisi). foliage of this plant is peculiarly narrow, rarely exceeding i in. in width, and gradually narrowing to the base. The flowers are solitary, on slender, nodding scapes, and about 1 in. in width. The colour is clear orange-yellow, being quite distinct in this way from any other known species. The figure in the " Botanical Magazine " greatly exaggerates the size of the flowers, those on the plants exhibited by Messrs. Veitch at Kensington not being half the size. This species was discovered near Cuzco in Peru by Mr. W. Davis, after whom it is named, and it deserves cultivation along with the darker and richer coloured kinds, such as M. Liudeni or M. Harryana and its varieties. Our figure represents the flowers of this species and a reduced view of the plant. The yellow flowers, abruptly narrowed lower sepals, and linear, fleshy leaves, serve to distinguish this plant from its allies. This plant received a first-class certificate on August 12, 1875. — M. Davisi, " Gardener's Chrouiole," 1871, p. 710-11 ; " Xeuia Orchidacea," III., t.3; Bot. Mag., t. 6190. The Snowy- white Masdevallia (M. tovarersis). — This is one of the most distinct and beautiful of all the large-flowered Mas- Tho Snowy-white Maedevallia (M. tovaronsis). devallias, its snowy-white flowers being each about the size of a shilling, the sepals lengthened out into slender tails, and borne two or three together on the apex of a three-cornered scape. This species, like M. ochracca and one or two others, has the habit of bearing a second crop of flowers from the apex of the old persistent scapes, something after tho manner of the well-known Hoya caruosa or Sept. 2, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 2J3 Cyrtooeraa reaexum. The aowera are ot the purest white, glistening like a snowEake, and a goal spacimea forms a very attractive object for grouping with the crimson, magenta, orangs-red, and yellow - flowered species. Its season of blooming is during the winter months. Mr. Bockett, of Stamford Hill, once exhibited a little specimen at South Kensington, bearing thirty-six flowers, and daring the past winter I saw a plant at Messrs. Teitch & Sons which bore more than seventy of its pearly flowers. When thus seen in perfection, it is one of the most attractive species. Oar illustration shows the general habit and contour of the flowers. In some gardens this species is known under the name of M. Candida, and, as implied by its more generally accepted name, the plant is a native of Tovar, in Columbia. It luxuriates under the same treatment as its congeners in a cool and humid temperature, and well deservescareful culture.— M.tovarensis, " Botanical Magazine," Vol. 91, t. 5505 ; " Gardeners' Chronicle," 1865, p. 915;- 1871, p. 1421. The Glowing Masdevallia (M. ignea).— This is a f ree-growing and distinct plant, a native of New Granada, whence it was origi- nally imported iu March, 1870, and soon after it flowered in several collections in this country, including Mr. Day's at Tottenham, arid Messrs. Veitch's at Chelsea. This species rarely exceeds 1 ft. in heio-ht, having the typical leathery leaves bluntly bifid at the apex, and of' a rich green colour. The flowers are solitary, on slender nodding scapes, the latter, as a rule, slightly exceeding the leaves in length. The flower itself is roundish, about the size of a shilling, the lower sepals being connate for about half their length, and the The Glowing Masdevallia (M, ignea). characteristic tails at the apex are here reduced to narrowed points. In colour these lower sepals are orange, or say cadmium-yellow, suffused towards their points with very bright red ; and here, in relation to this, a curious fact must be pointed out. As we have said, the ground-colour of the flower is vivid orange-yellow, and with this the red colour of the veins and points of the lower sepals does not blend, but red cells are mixed with the yellow cells, and the result is a vivid luminous reflection or lustre, which charms the eye at first, but soon tires it, and makes one long to gaze on the cool Sphagnum Moss and verdant foliage of the Alexandrian Odontoglots as a relief. Reichenbach, the great authority on Orchid lore, says the colojr of this flower is a " dazzling scarlet, mixed with orange, scarlet, too dazzling to look at long ; " and Dr. Hooker remarks, that " it thus suggests a transition from the red heat ot M. Veitchiaua to a white heat ; " and there is much truth in this remark, since the nearest approach to its colour is that ot a red-hot iron. Its close allies are M. Veitchiana and M. amabilis, but from the latter it is readily known by its upper and smallest sepal bending over the face of the flower, as shown in our engraving, while in M. amabilis it is thro?vn back. From M. Veitchiana it is known by the more rounded flowers, and by the absence of the purple papillse. It is one of the most profuse-flowering species in the group, and varies with small and large kinds of the usual colour ; one variety, named Marshalliana, bears yellow flowers. — Bot. Mag., t. 5962, from a large-flowered variety, which flowered with Mr. W. Ball in February, 1872. was first observed by European collectors in the garden of Dona Estrada, and sabseqaently it was foand by M. Patin when collecting for Mr. B. S. Williams. In general habit it closely resembles M. coccinea, the leaves being 3 in. or 4 in. in length, broadly spatnlate, and of a deep green colour. The flowers are, however, quite distinct, solitary, and on slender scapes about one-third longer than the leaves. Dona Estrada's Masdevallia (il. Bstradse). The sepals are about i in. in length, the upper one being hooded or cucnllate, yellowish at the base, the upper half being of a bright reddish-purple, terminated by a slender yellow tail 1^ in. in length. The lower sepals are equal to the upper one in size, but their margins are cucuUate and the basal halt is purple, their apices being pure white, and these are also terminated by yellow tails corresponding in length with those of the upper segment. The plant from which the figure in the " Botanical Magazine" was drawn flowered in the collec. tion of Mr. H. E. Cauty, of Liverpool, and bore fourteen flowers, the total number ot leaves being fifty-five. Our illustration represents the natural size of the flowers, and a reduced view of the entire plant. It well deserves a place in every good collection, being neat in habit, vigorous in constitution, and a most profuse bloomer.— "Botanical Magazine," t. 6171. The Slender-striped Masdevallia (M. amabilis). — This ia a free-flowering species from the high table.lands ot Peru, and belongs to the solitary.fiowered type. The thick, glossy, great leaves are from Dona Estrada's IVEasdevallia (M. Estradse). — This species has nothing gorgeous about it, but at the same time it is one ot the prettiest in the whole group. It is a native ot New Granada, and The Slender-striped Masdevallia (M. amabilis). 3 in. to 4 in. in length, of a pure lance shape, narrowed into the petiole below, each being about li in. in width where broadest. The flowers are borne at the apices of slender, nodding scapes, 10 in. or 12 in. in height, and although not so large as those ot M. Harryana or M. Teitchi, are nevertheless very pretty and distinct. The flowers are about li in. from tip to tip ot the slender tail-like sepals, the colour 244 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 2, 1876. beiiiR a deep critnson.pnrple with a yellowish throat, the tube behind being also yellow, streaked with orimBon. There are two or three forms of this plant that figured in the " Illustration Horticole," pi. 19G, under the name of 51. amabilis lineata, being one oE the largest'and brightest. Although not so striking in appearance as the larger-tlowered and brighter-coloured species, it is very floriferoua, and well deserves a place in the most select collection. Our figure represents a large-flowered form of natural size, together with a reduced engraving of the habit of the plant. — M. amabilis, " Bon- plandia," II., p. 116; M. amabilis var. lineata, " L'lUnstration Horticole," 1875, pi. 196. Spectral Masdevallia (M. Chimoera). — Another New Granadian plant found in deep valleys, sometimes in shady situations, and rarely exposed to tho full glaro of sunshine. It was discovered by M. Koezl, and was imported by M. Linden in 1872. A little confusion has been caused by another species, M. nycterina, having been mis- taken for it by some growers. It has been described by Pvofessor Reichenbaoh, who could find for it no better name than that of the mythical monster ChimiBra, than which we ai-e told no stranger " bogie ever came out of the earth's inside." Our engraving shows the form and local oolour of the flower, and the long blood-stained tails and lurid crimson markings on a yellow hairy ground, added to the spectral, indeed almost ghastly effect produced by the snowy, white lip as contrasted with the darker markings, and the threatening aspect of the curved scape and flower, which Dr. Hooker says are "like The Spectral Masdevallia (M. Cliima;ra). the head and body of a viper about to strike," certainly render this plant one of the most cnrious, not only of Masdevallias, but also of all other Orchids. Professor Reichenbach, in describing this plant on its introduction, draws attention to the fact that it has a slipper- shaped lip in lien of a tongue. " I have," he writes, " a sketch pre- pared by the lucky discoverer. It shows the leaf cuneate, oblong, acute, 1 ft. long. The flower-stalksare represented with five flowers; tho colours are described as yellow with black hairs ; the lip golden yellow. It has a widely-opened flower with long tails, the fimbriate, oblong sepals covered internally with stiff hairs. The petals are slit at their apex into tour wings, containing in their centre a great warted body." The plant scarcely comes up to this description, however, since in this conntry its scapes are one-flowered, and the lip is pure white instead of golden yellow; indeed M. Roezl says the original type of tliis species, as described by Prof. Reichenbach, has never reached Europe alive. I first made the acquaintance of this singular plant in 1873, when M. Lucian Linden kindly allowed me to make a sketch of a dried flower, and this subsequently appeared in tho " Florist," 1873, p. 3 ; " Botanical Magazine," t. 0152 ; " Gar- doners' Chronicle," 1872, p. -163 j 1875, p. 41 (with woodcut figure) ; " Revue Horticole," 1. 117-118. Bat-like MasdevaUia (U. nycterina).— This is one of the most curious of all the species, and so closely resembles M. Chimiora, that it was supposed to be that species when it first flowered in Europe. The sepals and petals are triangular, of a pale yellow colour heavily blotched with dark purpliah-brown, and densely papillose, especially towards the edges of tho segments in front, their ends being pro- longed mto thin purple tails 3 in. or more in length. It is not showy, and will only be grown by lovers of tho curious, Elephantine Masdevallia (M. elephanticeps). — Thisisalarge- flowered species extremely rare in cultivation, if, indeed, the true plant e.xist at all in our gardens, other species having been repeatedly introduced under this name. It appears to belong to the M. civilis and M. ooriacea section of the genus, the species belonging to which The ElcphantiaB ilasdevallia (M. elepliautioeps). are characterised by their thick, wax.like, greenish flowers being suffused or blotched with dingy brown, purple, or red, by their papillose lips and fcetid odour. Reichenbach gives two figures of this species in his " Xenia," and represents the flowers as greenish behind at the base, the sepals being blotched with brown or crimson, and the tails yellow within and brown or purple outside. Our illustra- tion gives some idea of the habit of this plant, which, however, is not so beautiful as many of the other more common and lower- priced species. — Ilsiohenbaoh's " Xenia Orcbidaceaa," plates 3 and 74. Humming-bird Masdevallia (Sil. Ephippium). — This is a singular species, also a native of New Granada, and, according to Professor Reichenbach, it was first discovered at Loxa by the late Dr. Krause, who sent it to Messrs. Backhouse, and it has since been imported from the neighbourhood of Antioquia and Medellin by Mr. Gastave Wallis and other coUeotors. This plant is known in Con- tinental nurseries as M. troehilas or M. Colibri, trivial names given Humming-bird Masdevallia (M. ephippiam). to the plant on account of the flower-bud and its adpressed tails having some fancied resemblance to a humming bird or Colibri. The plant grows from 10 iu. to 12 in. in height, the loaves being from 6 in. to 8 in. in length, broadly lance-shaped or oblong, and conspi- cuously throe-nerved behind. The flowers are solitary, on triangular or triquetrous scapes, a little longer than the loaves; the shape of the flowers is peculiar, the two lower sepals being united along their lower margins so as to form a bowl.shaped body about 1 in. in diameter, this being terminated by two slender, yellowish tails, fully Sept. 2, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 245 4 in. in length ; the upper sepal is muoh smaller than the lower ones' and after forming a hood over the column and petals it suddenly oon. tracts into a slender yellow tail, 4 in. long, which bends back at right angles; the petals are thick and fleshy, and curiously three-toothed at their apices. The colour of the flower varies considerably, as also do the published portraits of this highly curious plant. I saw the plant flowering in Mr. Bockett's collection in 1874, and the plant has since flowered with Mr. J. T. Barber, of Spondon, near Derby, both varieties being different. According to the description sent to M. Liaden by his collector in New Granada, this plant was to have brownish flowers shot with metallic blue, and the plate in " L'lllus- tration Horticole " shows some blue lights. Three lots of this species were sold at Stevens' rooms in the spring of 1873 for £32, and it is thus deauribed in the catalogue :— " M. trochilug (Colibri humming bird), the King of the Masdevallias, and the largest-flowered species with long tails, in the way of Cypripedium caudatum ; red-brown colour ■with blue reSex, very rare." Mr. Barber's flowers were of an unat- tractive rusty brown colour, the tails being yellowish. There may possibly be superior varieties, but the plant as at present known is worth growing as a curiosity only. Oar illustration represents the plant reduced about one-fifth. Svnonyms— M. Bphippium, Rchb., fil. in Bot. Zeit., 1873, p. 390; XeniaOroh., vol. ii., p. 213, t. 195 ; Gard. Chron., 1874, p. 372 ; Bot. Mag., 6208. M. troohilas. Linden et Andr6, L'lll. Hort. (not Rev. Hrrf. as oited in Bot, Mag.), 1. 180. M. Colibri, Hort. Linden. Farple-spotted Masdevallia (M. Melanopus). — This is not a showy species, but is, nevertheless, very pretty and variable, and Purple-spotted Masdevallia (M. Melan3pn9). well deserves a place in select collections. The whole plant rarely exceeds 6 in. in height, having glossy, spatulate leaves, and zigzag spikes of from three to five whitish or yellowiah-purple-dotted flowers. Mr. Green, of Helmsdale Road, Reigate, has exhibited three distinct forms of this pretty little plant at South Kensington, and one of these had pure white flowers with yellowish tails and con. spicuous spots of purple, another had smaller and more profuse spots, and a third was altogether yellowish with greenish tails. The white forms are most attractive. This species has been confounded in some gardens with M. polysticta ; but they are quite distinct, and for all practical purposes the more robust habit, purplish-tinted flowers, and hairy sepals serve to distinguish M. polysticta from our present plant. The Dotted Masdevallia (M. polysticta). — A free-growing and exceedingly floriferous plant, bearing from two to flve flowers on a slender scape 10 in. or 12 in. in height. The leaves are 5 in. or 6 in. in length, oblong, spatulate, and of a bright green colour, rather thick and fleshy withal. The flowers are of a dead or greyish-white colour, dotted profusely with reddish. purple, the upper sepal being hooded or cucullate, and agreeing with the lower oblong sepals in being abruptly narrowed into slender, yellowish tails. Oar iigure re- presents the general part of this pretty little species. It is a native of the high and comparatively cold plateaus or table lands of northern Peru, where it was discovered in 1873 by that veteran traveller and collector, M. Roezl, who describes it as forming strong tufts on the Cordilleras, where, as in our colactions, it is very robust and flori. ferons. In his description of this species Professor Reichenbach remarks that it reminds one of Odontoglossum ncevium. There are several forms in cultivation, some having larger and darker markings on a pure white ground, while others are French white suffused with pink, and densely dotted ; but all are pretty, although by no means bright or showy. Its winter-blooming habit is an additional reoom. mendation. I have seen this species flowering very freely in Messrs. Veitch's Maadevallia-house at Chelsea, along with the snowy-white M. tovarensis, M. ignea, and others, producing altogether a very pretty effect.— " Gardeners' Chronicle," 1874, pp. i. 338 and ii. 290 ; " L'lUustration Horticole," 1875, pi. 199 ; " Gartenflora," t. 869. Th.e G-aping Purple Masdevallia (M. infracta). — This is a very floriferous, purple-flowered species from Brazil, whence it has been largely imported. Although not showy, it well deserves a place in collections, as it continues growing and flowering nearly all the year. I first saw it in Mr. Wilson's collection at Lee Hall, near Liverpool. It appears to be synonymous with the M. longi caudata of M. Lemaire ("Illustration Horticole," 1868, p. 109), and appears to have been introduced to Continental gardens as early as 1828. The entire plant rarely exceeds 6 in. in height, the leathery, spatu. late leaves being gracefully arched and tridentate at the apex. The flowers are solitary, on slender, triquetrous scapes, rather longer than the leaves, and are of a glistening purple colour, dotted with purplish-brown. — Lindl. "Generaand Species," p. 193; " Gardeners' Chronicle," 1871, p. 1422 ; " Belgique Horticole," 2873, pi. xxii. MY DIARY FOR SEVEN YEARS. By W. DENNING. Sept. 4. — Sowing — 700 pots of Fulmer Beans, and placing them in first Strawberry.honse ; also Radishes ; and twenty.four pots of Lobelia. Potting — Cattleya labiata in fibrous peat and sand ; potting off and plunging in bottom. heat Neapolitan Violets ; shifting the few remaining spring-struck scented-leaved Pelargoniums into 6-inch pots ; potting up cuttings of double Wallflower ; potting off Holly- hocks ; also 600 Brompton Stocks for planting in spring; and young Callas ; shifting Primulas into their flowering pots ; putting Sophro. nites grandiflora in baskets, in peat, in the Lycaste-houae ; putting Cattleya Bl Dorado on to block and placing them in the East Indian- house ; shifting Dr. Lindley Pelargoniums from 60-sized to 48-sized pots ; putting Japan Lilies under glass, ought to be kept under cover after July ; shifting old double Wallflowers ; fresh mossing all Orchids requiring it ; shifting some seedling Cinerarias into their flowering pots. Cuttings — Put in of Gazanias an extra number ; also of Alyssum, Oxalis, Centaurea, Petunia, Tropasolum, and Agathaea. Planting — Endive beneath hedges ; also more July-sown Coleworts ; getting off all Strawberry runners in pots, and placing them ready for planting. Miscellaneous — Patting wired stakes to tree Migno. nette, and tying it to them ; tying Chrysanthemums ; washing Orange trees for scale ; giving Celery a good watering; and watering Peach trees in early and late houses ; gathering Mere de Menage, English Codlin, Cox's Orange, Alexander, and Keswick Apples ; and Williams' Bon Chretien Pears ; also Peaches out-of-doors daily ; digging land for Cabbage Lettuce ; making up Endive and Lettuce beds ; beginning to stub up useless fruit trees, and prepare ground tor others ; turning Mushroom manure nearly every day ; placing ashes as a medium for holding moisture in PhalEenopsis. house; going over trees again in order to remove breastwood ; thinning latest Turnips ; hoeing and thinning winter Spinach ; weeding and rolling walks ; clearing hedge-sides; taking wasps' nests ; removing top-light from early Vinery and Peach-houses ; keeping Pig-house about from 60° to 65° by fire-heat for late crop. Sept. 5. — Potting — Off autnmn-struck Colons, Pelargomama, and latest-sown Cinerarias, Plantwig — Some young Cucumbers in large pots; beginning to plant Strawberry runners. Miseellaneoiis — Tying up Endive to blanch, also October Mignonette and Pig trees loosely ; washing Camellias ; gathering Thorle Pippin Apples ; cutting Lavender; pulling up Marjoram for drying, also spring. sown Onions ; getting land dug for August-sown Lettuce ; stopping grow, ing shoots on Vines ; keeping temperatures iu Orchid-houses as follows, viz. : — Phalseuopsis-house to 72° at night, allowing it to rise from 5° to 8° higher by fire-heat in the daytime ; East India house, 70° at night, 85° in the daytime ; Dandrobium-house, 65° at night and 80" in the daytime ; Cattleya-house, 65° at night and 80° in the daytime ; Lycaste-house same as Cattleya-house, and unless it gets below 60° at night no fire-heat need be used ; Odontoglossum. house 60° ; no fire-heat, unless below 55° ; moisture should be much less than what it was a month ago. Sept. 6. — Arranging conservatory, and introducing to it Celosias, Maize, late Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, Coleus Versohaffelti and Duchess of Edinburgh, Cannas, Caladiums, Centaureas, Wigan- dias, and Palms. Cuttings — Put in of Heliotrope, an extra number 246 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 2, 1876. also of Verbenas and Antennaria tomeBtosa ; pricting oat yonng PiDks. 3riscellan''ous — Staking and tying variona hard. wooded plants; syringing Dendrobiumg again for thripg, taking the plants ont-of-doora before doing so ; spawning Mushroom bed and soiling it ; nsanuring Pea land for Strawberry plantation ; giving Vandaccerulea a, little more moisture now their spikes are 9 in. long ; giving Lycaste Skinneri more water as the balbs are jnst forming; pruning old Apple trees. Sept. 7. — Sowivg — 300 pota of Mignonette, also Radishes, and Mustard and Cresa regularly. Pottirtg — First winter Cucnmber plants, UBing 6-in. pota ; pntting Heliotrope cuttings into cold frame; shifting Gesneras into their flowering.pota ; shaking out Pelargoniums and re-potting them in smaller pots ; shifting the latest-sown Balsams, also the latest-struck Fuchsias, and latest-sown Primulas into their flowering-pots ; putting in some Hydrangea cnttings. Planting — Some All-the-year.round Lettuce, and planting last-sown Cucumbers in pit. llisceUaneous — Washing Saccolabiums and Gardenias with soap-suds for scale ; gathering orchard Apples ; also some Beurrc Benott and autumn Bergamot Penrs; a few Lord Falmerston Peaches and Victoria Plums ; autumn Giant Cauliflower now fit for use ; budding the last of theBriera; earthing up a fourth half-row of Celery fully at one operation ; clearing up bulb ground ready for plunging fresh supply ; top-dressing Eoses with horse manure and loam. Sept. 8. — Son'inn — A little more Spinach, which often comes in very useful in spring. Potting — Layered Anne Boleyn Pinks. Shifting hardy Rhododendrons into larger pots. Putting Salvia and Ageratum cuttings out-of-doors; putting Daturas where they could receive full sun to ripen their wood. Planting — Violets in frame. Miscellaneous — Syringing out. door Peaches every evening to keep down spider. Gathering Kerry Pippin, Manks Codlin, and Golden Pippin Apples ; also ten dozen Apricots; sending in Magnum Bonum Plums for pre. serving. Salting terrace walks to keep down weeds. Sept. 9. — Sowing — Seeds of Centanreasandof Radishes to come in in October. Potting— 200 young Czar Violets, and putting Calceolarias into pit ; also potting layered Carnations ; shifting some Ghent Azaleas into Larger pots; putting half the orchard-house trees out of donra ; inserting cuttings of Coleus and of variegated Sedum. Planting — Three beds each of Eret.sown Tennis Ball and Bath Cos Lettuce, also Sweet Williams. Miscellaneovs — Tying up straggling shoots of Irish Yews, staking Mignonette, bunching up Basil and placing it in a cool airy place to dry; netting Coe's Golden Drop Plums; giving Mushroom bed a gentle watering, Lettuce also watering ; gathering Beurre d'Amanlis Pears; distilling Mint water ; exposing Tomatoes to direct sunlight ; making some beds ready for Winter Lettuce by spreading manure on undug ground, and throwing soil from the alleys over it, an experiment which answeted well ; stopping Tomatoes ; top. dressing some one-year-old double Primulas ; leaving lights altogether off first- struck cuttings. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINB8. Late-SO'wn Primulas intended for flowering in spring should BOW be shifted into their blooming pots, which should be 6 in. ones ; pota of this size, with the aid of manure water, will be found large enough for most kinds of fast-growing, soft-wooded plants. Primulas like a compost consisting of good fresh loam with one-sixth leaf- mould and a little sand. An idea is prevalent that they are liable to damp off if the collar of the plant in potting be not kept well np above the soil. Why such an impression should exist it is difficult to surmise, unless it arises from the fact that Primulas are more than most plants subject to damp off at the stem, especially during winter, if kept in too low a temperature with correspondingly too much water; I say correspondingly, for if Primulas bo grown through the winter in a night temperature of 50' or 55°, they will bear almost as mnch water as Cinerarias without suffering in the least from damp, showing clearly that it is the low temperature which they dislike ; but when kept warm in this way they must be close to the light, or the growth will bo drawn up weakly. Press the soil firmly in the pots, letting it come well np to tho base of the under leaves so as to keep the plants secure in their places without rocking about, as they do when not potted low enough. Let both these and tho earlier-sown plants intended to flower through tho last months of tho year and early piu'tion of tho next bo for some weeks yet in cold frames exposed to plenty of air, elevated close up to the glass, with the lights off in line weather, particularly at night, as exposure to the dew is of considerable service to them. A piece of very thin, open netting stretched over the frames during tho daytime, when the «im is on them, will be much better than exposing them to ita fall inflnence. Cinerarias. — Attend well to those that were sown earliest, as their pots will now be getting filled with roots, in which case any deficiency in tho way of water will so far injure them as to ciiube the loss of their lower leavea and when that happens, however well flowered they may be, they lose half their beauty. Let the plants be looked over every ten days in order to aee that aphides do not get a lodgment on them, or a like loss of leaf will be the result. If the plants be fumigated to destroy aphides, it should be done lightly, or tho foliage will be liable to get injured. The safest course is to watch closely, and immediately a plant is affected with either aphides or thrips to dip it in Tobacco water, a supply of which ready for use should always be at hand in every garden, large or small, especially during spring and summer, when these insects come to life bo quickly. Fuchsias that have been flowering since the spring will, despite the best attention, now be getting exhausted and shabby. They may be turned out under tho protection of a wall for a few weeks to ripen up and dry off, giving them only as much water as will prevent the leaves from falling too quickly. Spring-struck plants grown for later flowering will keep on for some time longer if supplied altogether with very weak liquid manure. This is better for Fuchsiaa than applying it stronger alternately with clear water. As fast as the flowers decay pick off tho seed-pods before these have time to grow, as their production taxes the plants to a greater extent than the blooming does. Syringe them well overhead once or twice a-week. Even yet, if the weather be warm, they will be liable to rod spider. liate-struck Double Petunias will, if they have been well attended to, have been found very useful for either greenhouse or room decoration : cuttings of these should now be put in for flowering next spring and summer, after which the old plants when done blooming may be thrown away, as young ones are in all respects better, and occupy less room. Ferns. — In places where Ferns are grown, if the plants stand on any loose material that will hold moisture, such as ashea or sand and fine gravel mixed, kinds like Pteris serrulata, and the varieties of Adi- antum, such as A. cuneatum, formosum, and pubescena, will drop their spores and vegetate in quantity without tho tronble of a special pre- paration in sowing them. The young plants that thus come up in spring will now be large enough for putting singly in small pots; for these do not use them too large, but in all cases let them be proper. tionate in size to the plants. Peat is the most suitable soil in which to grow them when it can be had good, but where not easily procurable amateurs need not fear growing these and other Ferns in ordinary loam, always taking the precaution of keeping it porous by a liberal admixture of crocks broken to the size of Horse Beans ; or coal cinders will do equally well broken small, to which some sand haa been added ; the proportion of this latter, for these, as for all other plants, cannot be exactly determined, being dependent upon the quantity of sand the aoil naturally contains. I am led to make these reraarka by so often seeing ama- teura fall into the opposite extremes of mixing too little or loo much sand with their potting material, the result of which is either the whole mass in the pots gets sour and unsuitable for healthy develop- ment of the roots in the former case, or not affording sufficient sustenance through being too open and poor. Ferns, unlike many plants, should, as soon as potted, be immediately watered, for if ever the soil be allowed to get so dry after potting as is needful for subjects that do not require so much water, they will flag, and whenever this occurs to a Pern, especially when its roots have been disturbed, aa in the case of potting, it receives serious injury, and generally loses many of the fronds. Tho cultivation of Ferns is so often associated with the idea of a dark, heavily-shaded situation, that amateurs do not give them enough light. This produces a disposition of the fronds to damp off in the winter, especially if the growth haa been made in too close and warm an atmosphere. Poms so treated generally make very largo, deep green fronds, but not enduring ; the varieties above named, which are so useful for general purposes, can scarcely be grown with too much light, provided they are shaded slightly from the direct rays of the sun when it is powerful. Older plants of Ferus, such as tho above, grown for cutting should bo kept in comparatively small pots ; by this means any disposition to luxuriant growth is checked, and they will stand in water for several days. Agapanthus umbellatus. — This, though old-fashioTied, is an excellent plant for amateurs to grow ; by some, however, it is held in little estimation, simply because it is easily managed. It will succeed in any kind of soil, and will bear neglect through inattention in watering better than most plants ; it will also do with less pot. room than many plants. Tho excellent habit of its curved, drooping leaves, which, when well grown, almost cover the pots in which it ia placed, constitute it one of the best for standing about door porches, Sept. 2, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 247 on terraces, or by the side of walks, where the large umbels of blue flowers it forms are seen to advantage. They are likewise very useful for cutting, lasting well in that state, and affording a colour not over.plentif ul. It is also equally at home in the greenhouse. As soon after this time as the flowering is over, when it is required to be increased, the plants should be turned out of the pots, the roots (which are usually very much interlaced), disentangled, and the crowns divided ; if the roots be much matted they can be separated with tie least injury by plunging the ball in a vessel of water and working the whole of the soil out with the fingers; a common edging iron will sever the crowns with as little damage to the roots as auy implement that can be used. If two or more crowns be retained to each piece divided, they may be put in S-in. or 9.in. pots. Grow them in ordinary loam, to which add enough sand, and ram the soil firmly in the pots, which should be well drained, as they will do with less shifting than most plants. Nierembergias are now much neglected. Although small- growing, free-flowering subjects, they are well worth cultivation. Amateurs will find them very suitable to edge vases for summer decoration, where their drooping habit and profusion of flowers are seen to advantage. They are particularly adapted for use in window boxes or for room plants. Cuttings should at once be got in, select- ing the softest shoots that have not a disposition to bloom. Put in the points of these 1 in. apart in 5.in. pots in sandy peat surfaced with 1 in. of sand; water them immediately, and cover with a bell-glass, putting them in a little warmth. When they are struck they should be placed singly in small pots for the winter, and kept near the glass ; if they can be accommodated with a temperature of 45° in the night it will keep them growing. Kitclisn. Garden. — Although the different crops have been refreshed by the showers that have fallen recently more or less throughout the country, still they have effected little more than sur- face-wetting, which is so far deceptive that the lower and more im- portant roots are not much benefited. Everything in the shape of winter vegetables should at once be well watered, or they will not produce more than half the usual weight of crop, with the still fur- ther disadvantage of being liable to push into unseasonable growth when copious lains fall later on, which would render them apt to suffer should hard weather ensue. Greenhouse Plants. As most of these will now be out-of-doors maturing their growth, any houses needing repairs or painting should now receive that atten- tion, so as to be in readiness to receive the plants, should wet or unfavourable weather set in. If this occur before the houses are fit for their reception, raise the pots from the floor of ashes or other bed on which they may be standing, and place them on a couple of bricks so as to secure perfect drainage, and thns prevent a too great saturation of the soil. Any of the more recently potted kinds, or such as have not well filled their pots with roots, will be in a safer position laid or tilted ou their sides during a coutinuance of heavy rain than they otherwise wonld bo ; by excluding the wet from the balls in this way, the plants will be rather benefited than otherwise from the thorough cleansing which the tops will receive. Ou the other hand, should the weather continue dry, the utmost watchful, ness will be needful to see that they do not suffer from want of water, as plants dry much faster when placed out-of-doors with a constant current of dry air circulating amongst the pots than they do when placed on the stage of a greenhouse. To ensure soaking them through, the first watering which they receive should only be preliminary, and as soon as that is soaked in repeat it once or twice if thought necessary, as it cannot do the least harm if no more be administered till the plant is in a fit state to receive it again. It is giving water in small quantities before it is really required that does the mischief, as then the soil becomes water.logged and sour, a condition fatal to all healthy root- action. So long as plants remain out-of-doors, they should be freely syringed on the afternoons of fine days, a proceeding which tends to keep down red spider. Heaths, however, should prove an exception to the general syringing, as it is only a few of the free-growing winter- blooming varieties which derive benefit from it, and even in their case it ought now to be discontinued. Many of these are subject to mildew, and any that show the least symptoms of it, should at once be dusted with dry flowers of sulphur, which will quickly rid them of its presence. ruchsias and Pelargoniums. — Vigorous, young, medium. sized :plants of Fuchsias are much to be preferred to old ones, and in ordJr to get a supply of these for next season, cuttings should be put in at once. For this purpose select the tops of soft young shoots, as free from flowering or flower-buds as they can be got, and picking off any that may be on them, before putting them in. They will strike freely under bell-glasses or handlights in a shady position, if kept close and moist. Any that have been put in earlier, and which are already rooted, should be potted singly in small pots, using good, rich soil for the purpose. This should consist of good fibry loam, leaf-mould, and well-rotted manure in the proportion of three, fourths of the former to equal parts of the two latter, to which a little sand should be added to keep all free and open. When potted, place them in a cold pit or frame, where they must be kept well syringed and properly shaded till they get a good start ; after that they will bear more light, but they must not have sufficient sun to cause them to become hard and woody. Should any be required for very late blooming, select a few of the plants that came in first, and which have since had a rest, and shorten the side shoots by pruning them in a little so as to induce them to break back, which they will soon do if the plants be sub. jected to a brisk, moist heat. Keep them well syringed to prevent red spider from attacking them, and supply them liberally with weak manure-water whenever they require water at the roots. There are one or two varieties that are almost perpetual bloomers ; of these, the best is Mme. Cornellisen, a kind which may be had almost as good in autumn and winter as in summer. Then, again, there is that sterling old evergreen, F. seratifolia, a plant that appears to be but little known or it would certainly be more culti- ted than it is at present : this variety blooms naturally about the end of October, and lasts several months in great beauty if kept in a temperature of about 45° or 50°. In habit it is more shrubby than any of the others ; it therefore succeeds best grown in the form of a bush, a shape that it naturally assumes. The flowers are borne in clusters at the ends of the branches ; they are about 3 in. long, and of a bright red colour. It is altogether a valuable plant, on account of its flowering at a dull time of the year, and one that I can strongly recommend for that purpose. Pelargoniums of the zonal kinds that have been in the open air and kept back by having their flowers pinched off, should now be placed under glass, where, if supplied freely with manure-water, they will last in bloom till quite late" in the autumn. Those intended for winter blooming should still be kept plunged in a bed of coal-ashes in full sunshine, in order that the growth which they make may be short-jointed and thoroughly matured, in which state when placed in dry heat by-and-by they will flower freely. The show and fancy varieties that were cut down some time back will now be sufiiciently forward to shake out and re-pot. To fit them for this purpose they should be allowed to get somewhat drier at the root than usual, as then the soil will leave more readily than it otherwise would do. Pelargoniums are fre- quently allowed to get too forward in growth before they are re- potted ; and when that is the case, the bark of the young shoots gets so contracted from the check received, that the plants rarely start freely again. In the case of young plants very little trimming of the roots will be needful, but for those that have already attained sufBeient size, nearly half their length may be cut away. The best soil for Pelargoniums is a good, stiff, fibry loam, moderately enriched with some thoroughly decomposed manure. This should be well beaten up, in order that it may be thoroughly incorporated with the loam. Should the latter contain a moderate amount of gritty matter, as most loamy soils do, little if any sand will be needed, as Pelar. goniums require leas of that than most plants subjected to pot culti. vation. In re-potting see that the compost is only just moist, as then it can be forced into the pots more firmly than wet soil. From 5-in. to 7-in. pots will be sufficiently large for any ordinary-sized Pelar. goniums after they have been shaken out, as all that is required is just sufficient room for their roots without being too much crowded together. After potting set the plants in a light house, pit, or frame, which should be kept rather close and shaded for a few days ; after that they should be subjected to full sunshine, and should have plenty of air, and a good syringing every afternoon when the weather is bright and clear. Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Lilies, &c. — Cinerarias, to come in early, should now be pushed on by being shifted into larger pots, using a light, rich soil. The best compost for them is a mixture of good, fibry loam, leaf. mould, and cow-manure, in the proportion of two parts of the former to equal proportions of the two latter, to which should be added some clean, sharp sand. In order to keep the drainage free and open, place over it some of the rougher portions of leaf-soil and coarse pieces of flaky manure, filling up around the ball, but not too tightly with the mixture just named. The plants should then be returned to a shady pit or frame, where they can be set on a cool, moist bottom, and kept syringed once or twice a day according to the state of the weather. This will greatly expedite their growth and keep them free from red spider, to which, at this season of the year, they are subject. Watch closely for green fly and mildew, and fumigate the moment aphides appear, or they will soon disfigure the leaves and stop the growth of the plants. Mildew is easily eradicated 248 THE GARDEN. [Sett. 2, 1876. by dusting the parts affected with dry flowers of BolphDr,whicli should not be syringed off the plants for a few days. Herbaceous Calceolarias should now be sufficiently forward to be pricked out in pans or boxes, or potted singly in email pots. A damp, shady frame and a soil similar to that recommended for Cinerarias, but with less manured matter in it at starting, will meet their requirements. Syringe freely overhead, and keep them moderately close for a time, after which more air should be given them. Liliums, such as L. anratum and other early bloomers, should be set ont-of-doora in sheltered positions, and should only receive water occasionally, so as just to keep the ball moist, allowing the tops to ripen and gradually die, when they may be cut off and the pots stowed away in any shed or other place where they can be protected from wet. Should, rainy weather set in before they are properly ripened off, lay them down on their sides, for if they become saturated now the bulbs will be liable to rot. The Lancifolinm section and other late-blooming kinds will now be in full beauty, and should be liberally assisted with plenty of manure-waterwhenever they require moisture at the root. Tritonias and other bulbous. rooted plants of similar character now flowering should likewise be assisted in tLe same way. Eochea falcata is just now one of the most brilliant among greenhouse plants, and is certainly deserving of more extended cultivation than it at present receives ; its large, fleshy leaves root readily in sandy soil if placed on a shelf in the stove or other warm house, or the plants may be divided and increased in that way. To get them to bloom freely, they should be placed in sunny posi. tions when they have completed their growth. — J. Sheppabd. Orchids. The nights are now becoming cold, and henceforth care must be taken only to give water to such Orchids as really require it ; even the Brazilian varieties of LoDlias, &c., many of which are now in full growth, should, notwithstauding that, be but sparingly watered ; they make better and sounder growth when kept just moist than when wet; and the roots, which are almost sure to be lost if the plants be allowed to become Eodden, will be preserved by being kept rather dry. One of the most important matters in connection with Orchid culture during the autumn months is the regulation of the atmosphere of the houses at night, eo that it is just moist enough to keep the plants from shrivelling ; if it be too damp, it is apt to condense and fall upon them during the night, at which time the house being closed and the temperature at the lowest ebb, the plants are likely to be greatly injured, more particularly if by any chance the temperature has got a few degrees lower than it should be ; in ccnsEquence of this the young growths of many autumn-growing Orchids are frequently lost. Some Orchid-houses are more difBcult to manage in this respect than others, but if attention be paid to the matter the cultivator can soon ascertain at what time of day the last, damping down should be given in order to have only the required amount of moisture in the house during the night. In the inter, mediate-house the afternoon damping down may in most cases be discontinued ; and in the other houses, where it may be necessary, it should be done early in the afternoon, and but little water should be used. All things connected with the heating of the houses should now be in good order, so as to ensure the maintenance of the proper temperature during cold weather, for on this much depends; if the temperature cannot be kept down, it entails the necessity of keeping too much moisture in the house, which excites the plants into growth at an improper period ; and if it range too low the necessary amount of moisture cannot be given to those which require it: in either case, therefore, the plants suffer. From the present time there will be but little need of shading, but the blinds had better be left undisturbed a little longer, to be used for an hour or two in the middle of the day, when the sun is very bright ; at other times it is better not to lower them, but to regulate the heat by means of the ventilators. Lajlias, Cattleyae, Oncidiums, Miltonias, &c., should not henceforth be shaded ; they want all the sun they can get. Particular attention must be paid to the ventilation (see vol. IX., p. 578) , giving air, regulating it, and taking it off according to the weather. The temperatures during September should be East India or warm bouse, from 75° to 80° during the daytime, and 70° at night; Cattleya or intermediate house, from 70° to 75 ' during the day, and 65° at night ; Odontoglossum or cool house, from G0° to 65° by day, and 55° at night; the higher day temperatures are for sun-heat. There is a warmer and a cooler end in all houses, and as each house will contain plants from various parts and in different stages of growth, they should be arranged according to their requirements. Those who have but one house should treat it as an intermediate house. James O'Bbien. Saccolahium Blnmei majus. — I saw the other day at Lord Londeaborouph's Place at Norbiton, a grand specimen of this handBome Orchid. It was in the pest of health, and bore fifteen ttower-BSikeSi acme ot which measured 18 in. in 'on(?th.— T, a. A. GARDEN RECEIPTS. Apple Maggot. The Apple Maggot, which is the caterpillar of a small moth known to entomologists as the Carpocampa pomonella, goes by various names in diSerent parts of the country, such as Apple- boring Grub, Codlin Grub, Apple Worm, &c. It is, as every one knows who has grown Apples on a large scale, one o£ the most baneful insects that attacks this most useful fruit tree. It is difficult to exaggerate the amount of injury caused by the Apple Grub in England, on the Continent of Europe, and in the tinited States of North America. The moth itself is a beautiful little creature ; but it is very seldom seen in the moth state, and the grower often knows no more than the man in the moon to what cause he is indebted for his basketsful of worm-eaten windfalls in the stillest weather. To find the moth in the daytime, the trunks of the Apple tree should be carefully looked over ; or, if the orchard be surrounded with a wooden fence, the moth may often be found sitting against it, with its pretty wings neatly folded round its body,which is three-eighths of an inch in length, the wings being three-quarters of an inch in width when ex- panded ; the head and thorax are brown ; the body, where covered by the hind wings, is paler brown, with a silky gloss ; the fore wings are grey.brown ; they are delicately barred with dark purple transverse lines, and have on the hind margin a large dark blotch, and within this another blotch almost cir- cular, and bordered with scales of a glittering fiery copper- colour. Towards evening the moth begins to move, and may then be seen hovering about the little Apples, which by the time it leaves the chrysalis (the middle of June) are well knit, and consequently fit for the reception of tbe eggs, which it generally lays in the eye of the Apple, only one in each. This is effected by introducing its ovipositor between the leaves of the calyx, which, closing over the eye, forms a tent that effectu- ally shields the egg from the inclemency of the weather or any other casualty. The act of oviposition is not, however, alwajs confined to the eye. "When the Apple stands with the eye uppermost, I believe this is invariably the case ; but when it hangs eye downwards, as though regarding the earth, the other end of the Apple is used as a receptacle for the egg, which is then dropped into the cavity surrounding the foot-stalk. As soon as the egg hatches, the little grub gnaws a hole in the rind of the Apple, and buries itself in the substance ; and it is worthy of remark that the rind, as if to afford every fa form a dividing line between Hie tlowor bordera in ttio kitchen gardens and vegetable dopartraonta, and not only i» tho hoiUo perfect as uucU, but tliQ rich tints of the lloword add greatly to its beauty.— .A, Sept. 9, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 257 African Lily (Agapsmthus umbellatue). Dwarf Purple Scabioii3(S.atropiirpiirea var. nana). Canary Creeper (Tropseolum peregrinum). Belladonna Lily (Amaryllis Belladonna). Common Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis) . Tall Yellow Centaury (Centanrea babylonioa). Italian Starwort (Aster amelloidea). Autnmn Pheasant's Eye (Adonis autumnalis). Willow-leaved Amaranth (Amarantas saUciJolia) . Latc-flowevmg Monkshood (Acomtum Anthoi a) SOME HAEDT FLOWEES 0¥ THE WEEK IN LONDOK GAUDENS. 268 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 9, 1876. FLOWER GARDENING IN BATTBRSEA PARK. This, one of the last formed of our London Parks, posaeeaes perma- sent features in the shape of well-diversified lawns, water surface?, shelter, and variety of tree growth that will bear comparison with those of any other of our public gardens, but the chief interest belonging to this park juat now ia the display of fine-foliaged plants, which, if it bo on the whole scarcely so luxuriant as in former seasons, is nevertheless very effective as seen associated with fine undulating breadths of green turf sheltered by trees and shrubs of various kinds. Among the changes which are especially noticeable here, as well as elsewhere, this season in flower garden arrangements, is the growing popularity of all kinds of snb-tropical and coloured- leaved carpet-bedding plants, these being used instead of flowering plants, and not without some good reasons, for, aa we have pre- viously observed, carpet-bedding and sub-tropical plants withstand the vicissitudes of our climate better than such fragile flowering subjects as Pelargoniums, Lobelias, and Calceolarias, but to the formal manner in which the carpet plants are arranged exception may be taken. Another advantage in leaf-gardening is, that colours obtain, able in that way are richer and softer than those of flowering plants, while the more stately-growing kinds enable us to secure a variety of plant form in our gardens otherwise unobtainable; but there is great danger of our being surfeited by this fashion just as we have been with that of Pelargoniums and Calceolarias. Batteraea excels all other London parka in the number of well-grown specimens of hardy fine, foliaged plants which it contains, and among these we especially noted Gunnera scabra, Bambusa gracilis. Polygonum Sieboldi, Ailantus glan- dnlosa, Catalpa syringsefolia aurea. Golden Eider, Tamarisk, Pampas Grass, together with some of the more stately, hardy, herbaceous peren- nials. Nevertheless, there is yet much to be done in introducing the best of the hardy, herbaceous plants into our flower garden arrangements ; nothing, indeed, conld well be more effective in sheltered shrubbery borders than Yucca fragilia with its spires of silvery bells ; Fox- gloves, too, which have been used in Victoria Park, and also in Ken- sington Gardens with such good results, might also find a place here. What grand effects might also be prodaoed by grouping large masses of Tritoma Uvaria, Pampas Grass, Helianthns orgyalis, H. multi. florua, and scarlet Gladioli ! while even the orange and golden-rayed Lilies might bo planted here and there in deep, rich, shrubbery borders with advantage, and thua aituated their flowers would remain in beauty much longer than in exposed positions. If a small portion of care and expense now devoted to the culture of Pelargo- niums and Lobelias were laid out in an intelligent use of hardy herba- ceous plants and fine-foliaged shrubs, our public gardens would bo more permanently beautiful and interesting than they are at pro. Bent, when the display is limited to a few weeks' duration in summer, and when we get Alternantheraa, Bcheverias, and Pelargoniums by the hundred thousand, all arranged in formal patterns. We fail, however, to see why the designs should invariably be formal ones, and not half so beautiful in their relative proportions as the parti-colonred pattern of an old Gothic cathedral window. Bright-leaved, dwarf-growing plants now popular in our gardens are decidedly useful for affording soft and rich masses of colour, but there is not the slightest reason why these colours should invariably be made to resemble gaily-coloured hearth-rugs or gaudy patchwork. Bright colours on well.kept,green lawns are desirable, but it surely must be bad taste to introduce groups of plants into our home landscapes — our living pictures — which a painter of but moderate ability would hesitate to introduce into any of his transcripts of modern garden scenery. In the Royal Academy Exhibition of the past season wo had charming pictures of tall Evening Primroses in old-fashioned parterres, and Roses, Clematises, and scrambling Vines, but no one was sufEciently bold or inartistic enough to introduce even a distant glimpse of the now fashionable and aptly-called "carpet" bedding into a single picture. It is to our great public gardens that we must look for improved examples of garden decoration, and it their con. tents consisted chiefly of plants well arranged that would withstand our climate, that would be all the more desirable, inasmuch as these public examples are seen by thousands annually, and are copied as closely as possible in many private gardens throughout the country. Our London parks may indeed be said to be great schools of garden- ing, and as such their arrangements and contents should be the best of their kind. Instead of this, in nearly all our London parks the extent of the beds and borders which have annually to be filled with temporary enmmer-flowering or fine-foliaged plants is so great that much of this style of gardening ia badly exooutod — ao bad indeed, that in nearly all our parks this season we could point out particular beds and borders which are so far below mediocrity that they wonid not be tolerated at all in good private establishments. To remedy this evil, therefore, it ia desirable that such space should be devoted to hardy, fine.foKa-ral shrubs, or to the more stately, hardy flowering plants of temperate climes. Sub-tropical Department. Nearly all the large-growing, fine-foliaged plants have this year done moderately well, and this is especially true of the bold belts of glaucoua-green, or purpliah-leaved, orange, or scarlet-flowered Cannas, and the still more gigantic Castor-oil planta, some of which have formed great lobed leaves nearly 2 ft. in diameter. A bed of thesa plants on a carpet of white and orange-flowered Lsntanas, golden, blotched Abutilon, and the pale blue Plumbago capensis, deserves notice, the whole being margined with the silvery-leaved Gnaphalinm lanatum. One of the large beds near the rockwork, to which we particularly alluded last season, is again very pretty this year. A background ia formed of the rich purple-flowered Clematis Jack. manni, yellow-canary Creeper, orange-scarlet Eooremooarpus soaber, and purple Convolvulus; then comes a row of the soft golden, leaved Catalpa syringtefolia aurea, and in front a mixed border of purple Petunias, scarlet Pelargoniums, and the dwarf Prim. rose-flowered CEnotbera missouriensis. Another oblong bed of large-leaved Solanums of the S. robustum or S. Warscewiczi type and variegated Maize is also distinct and good ; it ia margined with scarlet Pelargoniums, silvery. leaved Centanrea ragnsina, and a broad band of golden variegated Eunonymua japonicna in front. Tall standard specimens of Acer Negnndo variegatum are planted here and there in the shrubberies with good effect, and several belts of Cannas margined in front with scarlet Pelargoniums and golden variegated Gazania splendens, are effective as seen on a carpet of Ivy backed up by shrubs and trees. The feathery-leaved Aralia japonica does remarkably well here, and soma masses of the claret-leaved Amarantns (A. ruber), edged with silvery Centaurea, are also effective. Here, as in all the other parka, we notice the almost complete failure of Lobelias and Pelargoniums, and we shall not be at all surprised to see these fugacious materials used next year with greater caution than heretofore. Those who require really hardy, fine-foliaged plants, either for planting in shrubbery borders or for fine effects in the way of foliage, cannot do better than take Catalpa syringsefolia, the common Fig, and some of the plume. leaved species of Rhus or Sumach and Ailantns. There is, however, a little secret in their culture if a luxuriant, large-leaved growth be desired ; this can only be properly obtained by cutting them back every spring so as to allow but one or two strong shoots to develop themselves instead of a dozen. Another strikingly beautiful plant used here is the feathery Tamarisk, which shows to excellent advantage, both on rockwork and in shrubberies. Cotoneasters and Jasmines are also useful for covering overhanging rooks, which they do here effectually, and the little rocky waterfall is fringed in a very tasteful manner with blue Shore Grass (BIymus arcnatius) and Osmnnda regalis, Cyperus alter, nifolius and its ally C. laxus beiug used for plunging in the water, and with good results. Another excellent feature here ia the use which is made of the common Grape Vine in connection with jutting rockwork and stiff'-leaved Tuccus. Battersea Park has the advantage of extensive and varied water margins, but of these we think saffl- cient advantage has not been takeu, for surely they might be utilised so as to give us glimpses of the luxuriant water vegetation of the temperate parts of the globe. What noble masses of tall Reels, Arundo Donax, hardy Bamboos, or Arundinaria and Irids might we not have here ! This is a comparatively unworked field in garden ornament, and nowhere could the idea be better carried out than at Battersea, with its well-sheltered water margins. Palms and other stately-foliaged plants are plunged in the nooks and other sheltered parts of the lawn, and with excellent effect ; and among the planta best suited for this purpose we noted Cycas revoluta, Reaforthia elegana, Chamaaropa humilia, C. Fortunei, Dasylirion aorotriohum, Agave americana and its variegated varieties, while tall examples of Theophraata imperialis look well plunged in the shrubbery borders. The hardy Araliaa, such as A.. Sieboldi and A. japonica, aro effectively used in this park, as are also the noble-loaved Musa Ensete aud its ally M. superba. The Mixed Alpine Garden. This is not particularly effective this season. The mounds are aa usual covered with the silvery.leaved dwarf-growing Antennaria tomentosa, the foreground being occupied by groups of Agaves, Aloes, Yuccas, Palms, Sempervivuma, Echovorias, and other large growing succulents plauted on a carpet of Stoneerop, Turfing Daisy (Pyrethrura Tohihatchewii) Convolvulus raauritanicua, and Meaem. bryanthemums, its chief charm being the infinite variety afforded here by grouping a largo number of different species together. This style of decorative gardening may be resorted to with advantage in shel. tered nooks, whore bright colours are not required ; while almost any kind of lino.foliagod plants may be introduced. Some mixed beds of UiacTona tcrmiualis. Yuccas, and other dwarf succulents, on n carpet of white and lilac-flowered Nemophila, edged with Golden Sept. 9, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 259 Mesembryanthemnma, are very tasteful, as ie also an oblong gronp of purple and glauoous-foliaged varieties of Ricinas, on a carpet of soft green-leaved Marvel of Peru edged with pink Pelargoniums, Nemopliila, and the red-spined Chama9peace. The semi.hemi. spherical Dasylirion acrotricham is here planted with good effect, surrounded by a border of silvery.leaved Pelargoniums, and other plants. One of the brightest and best of all the sub-tropical beds is a semi-circalar one, planted with llusa snperba and the silvery cut-leaved Artemisia judaica, margined with pink Pelargoniums, and an outer row of a dwarf.growing Artemisia Stelleriana ; Punkia Sieboldiana also makes a bold and effective edging to a group of the graceful Aralia japouica, and the Fern glades are aa usual very tasteful, the fronds of tall Dicksonias waving beneath the shade of lofty trees, while the bright green Scolopendrium-like Asplenium Nidus. avis, Draesenaa, and Palms are plunged in the turf in close proximity to them. There is one shrub here which ought to be seen oftener in our parks and gardens than it is at present, and that is the glossy leaved Picas-like Griaelinia macrophylla, a near relative of the Aucubas, but scarcely so hardy : it is so pleasing in appearance that it deserves culture even as a pot plant, wherever a fresh-looking evergreen-foliaged plant ia desired. Some stumps on which the Elk's-horn Fern is planted have their bases wreathed with Kangaroo Tine or some species of Ampelopsis, and in one of the glades some fine plants of the fresh green Pothos (Anthurinm) acaulia, are very effective grouped along with Pandanua Veitchi, Monstera deliciosa, Dracaena anstralis, Palms, Tree Ferns, Platycerium grande, Aralia pnlchra, and other noble-leaved plants. Sonchus pinnatifidus, golden-blotched Abutilons, Solanumg, Cineraria platanifolia, Meli- anthus major, and the noble Gymnothrix latifolia, one of the freshest and most stately of all Grasses, make a good mixed bed. An oblong bed of glaucous-leaved, yellow-flowered Cannas is here made one of the most effective of all the groups we have seen this year by the addition of some single-stemmed cut-back specimens of Ailantus, the long feathery foliage of which is moved by the slightest breeze. A mass of Gunnera scabra, planted out some years ago on a spongy part of the lawn, is now very effective, indeed, one of the most natural and consequently most tasteful bits of planting in the whole Park. Several large beds of Ficua elastioa, Aralia papyrifera, Ricinus communis, and ilaize, are also well planted ; in some of the larger beds Wigandia and other large-leaved subjects are planted, and margined with scarlet or gold and silver variegated Pelargoniums, Iresine Lindeni, Nemophila, and Gazania splendens ; a circular bed of the bright green, feathery Acacia lophantha is just now very beautiful, margined with silver Zonals, purple Iresine, and Nierembergia gracilis. The two wavy or rather serpentine beds, which generally form a con- spicuous feature in the sub-tropical garden, were being replanted at the time of our visit (August 29), the materials used being Alteman. thera amcena, A. paronychioides, and Pyrethrum Golden Feather ; a belt of Cannabis gigantea, a strong-growing Hemp, has here made a Inxnriant growth, and aa an edging to this bed Spirjea Filipendula has been planted. An oblong mixed bed of Erythrinas, golden. leaved Fuchsias, Zinnias, tuberous-rooted Begonias, mixed with Aralias, Grevilleas, Palms, Blue Gum trees, and other fine-foliaged plants, is very attractive, margined with Alternanthera versicolor and Golden Pig Marigold. One of the moat graceful of all variegated Grasses is Fulalie japonica, which has here attained a height of 3 ft. this season, and is very effective grouped with fresh Palms and other fine-foliaged plants. A circular mass of a scarlet Zonal Pelar. gonium, named Moutrouge, edged with lines of Coleus, Santolina, and Eoheveria, is now very brilliant ; indeed the Pelargonium is one of the beat of all the scarlets which we have aeen. Another oblong bed of Fuchsias and Petunias is edged with the large woolly-leaved Salvia argentea, the whole surmounted by the great waving leaves of Ailantua. A bed of India-rubber plants, on a carpet of Iresine Herbsti and I. Herbsti variegata, is strikingly effective. One of the most distinct and pleasing of all the arrangements we noted here is an oblong bed of the silvery.foliaged Solanum marginatum on a carpet of the deep purplish Heliotrope, edged with a golden-leaved Zonal Pelargonium named Gem of Brilliants, and white Nemophila. Carpet or Formal Leaf Bedding. The carpet beds here are bold and effectively planted, but they lack that delicate finish which characterises those at Cleveland House (see The Garden, p. 234). A couple of large circular beds, planted with glaucous Sedums, Echeverias, silvery Ceraatium, San. tolina, crimson Coleus, purple Alternantheraa, and golden.leaved Stellaria, are pretty, and these are flanked by two oblong beds, con- sisting of blocks and panels of crimson, purple, and orange Alter. nantheras, on a carpet of Golden Pyrethrum margined with Sedum acre elegans. These beds are on a sheltered strip of green turf, backed by beds of large-leaved plants, shrubs, and trees. Two circular carpet beds planted with crimson and purple Alternan- theras on a carpet of Golden Feather, Santolina, Echeverias, and the bright green Cerastium arvense, are pleasing in colour, but too flat and formal in design. An oblong panel bed deserves notice, the panela being compoaed of Alternanthera versicolor, A. paronychioides, and the crimson A. amcena, edged with Santolina and golden Meaem- bryanthemum, on a fresh, green carpet of Cerastium arvense, the latter being studded with Aloes, Sempervivums, and the orange- berried Nertera depressa, the whole bed being margined with a narrow line of Santolina and a double row of the glaucous Eoheveria. B. SELECT PYBETHRUMS, P-SIONIAS, P0TBNTILLA8, IRISES, AND PHLOXES. Pyrethrums (double-flowered). — Aurora, creamy. white, orange centre; Brilliant, bright rosy purple ; Carneum plenum, blush white ; Comte de Montbron, rosy lilac, light centre ; Ploribundum plenum, rosy pink ; Gloire de Stalle, purplish carmine ; Imbricatum plenum, purplish carmine slightly tipped with white ; Iveryanuni, rosy carmine, light centre; La Belle Blonde, creamy white ; Lischen, light rose, orange centre ; Michael Buckner, rosy crimson, orange centre ; Minerva, rose ; Multiflorum, crimson, orange centre ; Nanoy, blush shaded with salmon ; Ne Plus Ultra, blush white ; Nemeaia, lilac carmine ; Peau Rouge, roay crimson, orange centre ; Perfectum, rosy lilac ; Princesse de Metternich, pure white ; Progress, rich crimson; Roseum album, rosy purple, white centre; Voi Lactea, white suffused with pink; Wilhelm Krampen, dark red; Rubrum plenum, rosy purple, rose centre. Pseonias, varieties of sinensis. — Alba sulphurea, white with a tinge of sulphur; Belle Douaisienne, blush centre, petals sulphur tipped with puce ; Candidissima, guard petals pure white, base of centre florets purple ; Etendard du Grand Homme, brilliant roay purple ; Grandiflora uivea, blush white ; Purpurea superba, violet-purple ; Leonie, delicate Peach ; Gloire patrix, rosy-pink centre ; Anguatin Dhour, purple-rose ; Arethnsa, rosy-lilac, delicate and creamy-white centre ; Souvenir de Gaspar Calot, purple-roae, mar. gined with pink and white ; Ambroise Verschaffelt, brilliant reddish, purple ; Maria Plouillon, rich satiny-rose ; Dachesse de Theba, pure white centre, creamy -white slightly margined with crimson ; Henry Demay, rosy-crimson ; Princess de Salem Dyke, rose, light centre ; Madame Chaumy, rose, margined light rose ; Souvenir d'Auguste Miellez, rich crimson-purple ; Vicomte de Forceville, rosy-pink ; Faust, deep blush; Isabelle Karlitzky, purplish-rose; Officinalis rubra plena ; Officinalis rosea plena ; Officinalis alba plena ; Sinensis Whitleyi, large single white with yellow centre, very fragrant. Potentillas (double flowered). — M. Ronillard, reddish crimson; Belzebuth, dark crimson ; Chromatella, yellow; Dr. Andry, acarlet, margined with yellow ; Escarboncle, orimaon ; Belisaire, reddish orange ; Vaae d'Or, yellow ; Le Dante, orange, shaded with acarlet ; Louia Van Houtte, crimson ; Phoebus, rich yellow ; Le Tesuve, crim. sou margined with yellow ; Versicolor, yellow suffused with brownish crimson ; Vulcan, scarlet shaded with yellow; Variabilis flore pleno, yellow margined with acarlet; Eldorado, scarlet crimson, margined with yellow ; Perfeota plena, bright scarlet crimson slightly with yellow; Imbricata plena, orange scarlet; Etna, reddish crimson. Panorama, yellow, heavily stained with scarlet ; Nigra plena, dark crimson ; Meteor, yellow suffused and blotched with scarlet ; Meiraschaerti flore pleno, j-ellow veined and striped with crimson ; William RoUiaaon, deep orange acarlet, yellow centre ; Penelon, orange and scarlet ; Purpurea lutea plena, scarlet crimson slightly tipped with yellow. Iris germanica. — Abou Hassan, bright yellow, lower petals copper reticulated with yellow ; Arnols, violet suffuaed with bronze, lower petals rich velvety-purple reticulated with orange, red, and white ; Aurea, chrome yellow and sulphur ; Socage, pale lavender, lower petals purple feathered with white ; Bridesmaid, white auffuaed with lavender, lower petals reticulated with reddish.lilac ; Cordelia, rosy-lilac, lower petals rich velvety rosy-purple beautifully reticulated and margined with white, flowers large; Darius, chrorne-yellow, purplish-lilac margined with primrose and reticulated with white, flowers large ; De Berge, chrome-yellow, lower petals rich crimson feathered with sulphur and yellow; Dr. Berenice, coppery.brown, lower petals ruby-purple reticulated with orange and yellow ; Duchesse de Nemours, white, lower petals purpliah-violet reticulated and margined with blue ; Florentina, white suffused with lavender ; Leopoldina, creamy-yellow, lower petals rich purple margined with anlphur-yellow and heavily striped and reticulated with white, flowers large ; Mexicana, bright yellow, lower petals purplish-brown reticulated with sulphur ; Minioo, rich golden-yellow, lower petals bright crimson-brown reticulated with yellow ; Pallida dalmatioa, lavender-blue with light centre, flowers large; Queen of May, 260 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 9, 1876. rosy.lilao with primrose centre ; Racine, primro?e suffuserl with lilao, lower petals rosv. purple rotioulated with white, flowers large ; Uadamo Chereau, milky-white, all the petals beautifully edzed and barred with violet ; Speotabilis, rich velvety-purple shaded with black ; Sultan, pale lavender, lower petals bright indigo blue, reticn. lated with white; Walner, azure blue, lower petals light purple ■lightly veined with white; Victorine, aatiny-white blotched with purple, lower petals rioh-glowing violet-purple veined and retioalated with white ; Delicata, dark primrose, lower petals lilac reticalated and veined with orange and purple; Atro-violacea, reddish-violet shaded with black, flowers large ; La Fristosse, bronzy-primrose, lower petals rich brownish-crimson heavily reticalated with yellow and white. Phloxes. — Anais, white-pnrplish eye ; Baron DarnSe, purplish. crimBori ; Coccinea, vermilion-crimson ; Comte de Meronet, pnrplish- lilao, crimson eye ; Edith, white, crimson centre ; Gloire de Poiteaa, rosy-lilaf, white centre ; Lothair, bright scarlet, crimson centre ; Lucien Tisserand, maave, crimgon centre; Madame Andry, purplish, crimson, crimson centre ; Madame Domage, white, carmine centre; Madame Moisset, rose, rosy. crimson centre; Madame Thibaut, red, crimson centre ; Menotti, rosy-lilac, white centre ; Monsieur Gulden, schuch, salmon.rose, purplish-crimson centre ; Monsieur Taillard, salmon-red, pnrplish-orimson centre ; Monsieur Malet, lilao, purplish centre ; Mrs. Laing, rosy-lilac ; Professor Koch, rosy-crimson, crimson centre; Eeve d'Or, bright salmon, cherry -red centre; Roi dea Blanos, pure white, stout habit, dwarfed ; Souvenir de Poteven, rosy.pink, slightly suffused with violet, crimson eye ; Venus, white, violet. purple centre; Richard Wallace, white, carmine centre; Sparte, purplish, rose-crimson centre; The Queen, white, tall. — " The Gardener." THE NEW ROSES OP 1874-75. In the autnmn of 187-1 no fewer than seventy varieties of new Roses were announced by French rosarians. As I have seen the greater part of these varieties in flower, either in the grounds of the raisers or in my own nurseries, I have thought it may be of some service to intending purchasers to give a brief description of such as have pleased me beat, or have been recommended to me by those in whose judgment I have reason to confide. And flrst of the Hybrid Per. potuals, Amelie Hoste is a large, full, and finely-shaped flower, of a fleah-tinted rose colour, very diiitinctand promising. Antoine Mouton is a very large, full, and finely-formed globular flower, of a bright rose colour, the reverse of the petals silvery. Arthur Oger is one of those deep velvety, purplish-crimson Roses in the Gloire de Ducher style ; the flowers are very large and full. Bernard Verlot is some- thing in the way of Lord Raglan, the flowers being of a scarlety- crimson, shaded with violet-purple, bat the form is more globular. Casimir Perier has dark ruby.red flowers, shading to light red, and possesses the good quality of blooming constantly. Comtesse de Rocquigny is a pretty and free-growing Rose, flowers white, tinted with falmon, not larg<», but of perfect globular form. Comtesse de Serenyi bloomed grandly here under glass, its large, globular flowers, pink shaded with rose, attracting general attention. Gonsoli Gielano is distinct and pleasing ; the flowers are gli.aay while, slightly tinted, laige, and full. Hippolyte Jamin is good, the flowers are brijjht rose shaded with carmine, large, fall, and globnlar. E. T. Teas ia a large Rose, the colour deep cerisered, bright and striking, the flowers are globular, full, and well formed. La Ro8i6re is also a large, full, and well-formed flower, amaranth shaded with bluish. black. La S mveraine is a fine, bold flower, much in the way of Madame Clemence Joigneaux, but niuoh more double. Madame Lefebure de St. Ouen has bright cerise-red flowers, large, full, free, and sweet. Madame Rougier is a large, full Rose, of cupped foim, the colour is glosiy rose. Mdlle. Claire Mathieu is a rose-coloured flower, promising to be a free and showy garden Rose. Marie Cordier is a large, well. formed flower, colour deep carmine, illuminated with fiery red. Mariette BioUey is a good garden Rose) fresh in colour, large, and full. May Turner is a very large Rose) full, and of good form ; the colour is salmon-rose. Prinoesse Antoinette Strozzio has bright rose-coloured flowers, which are large, full, and well-formed. In Souvenir de MiSre Fontaine the flowers are bright red, the base of the petals shaded, large, and full. Souvenir da Biron ile Semur is a fine colour, velvety-purple, shaded with fiery re 1 and black ; the growth is not vigorous here. Villaret de Joyense stands well among the novelties of this year; the flowers are rose shaded, large, full, and finely formed. There is one Perpetual Moss EoBB— Sonpert et Netting, a bright rose.coloured flower, of the size and shape of the old Cabbage Rose, bearing more moss than gume of Its congeners. There are also some tea.scented Roses with which I am more than satisfied. Aline Sisley is a full, well- formed violet. red R^se, a colour new and much wanted in this sec- tion. Comte de Sembui produces coppery. salmon flowers, which are large, full, and finely formed. Jean Ducher ia salmon-yellow, the interior of the flower shaded with peach colour. This is a large, full, and free-flowering globular Rose. Madame Bonnet Eymard is whito with yellowish centres, not large, but full and very free. Madame Devouoout produces nicely. formed flowers of a pale straw colour. Madame Therese Genevay has flowers of a rosy-peaoh colour, large,' full, cupped, and free. Marie Guillot, a white Rose slightly tinted with yellow, promises well ; it is large, full, of good form, hardy, and free. Marie Opoix is another white with yellowish centre, sometimes tinted with pink, also of good form. Perle des Jardins flowered finely here ; the colour is canary -yellow, large, full, well.shaped, hardy, and free. Shirley Hibberd is new in colour — nankeen — and flowers freely. Ther^se Loth bears rose-coloured flowers with brighter centres. The above includes the varieties which have most favourably impressed me in this their probationary state, but I do not wish it to be inferred that I condemn those which I have left unnoticed ; neither do I pass any opinion on the English seedlings, because they are open to in. speotiou by any one who may be inclined to visit them in the nurseries of the raisers. I may say, however, in conclusion, that I think this year has produced more than the average number of really good new varieties. William Paul. Renovating a bad Lawn on Chalk. — Could any of yoar skilled contributors help me to renovate a bad lawn ? It was constructed four years ago on a chalk slope ; the soil was wheeled back from the upper half and thrown on the lower half, thus bringing the whole on a level. But snflicient care was not taken to preserve the good soil, and the upper half, I fear, has the coarse, cold chalk all but on the surface. The soil was sown with good seeds, but the Grass has never done well, being patchy and very coarse in many places. The upper half is very liable to become almost scorched up in hot weather, as it was during July last ; and now after the rain it is, to a great extent, covered with an ugly fungus — at least such I assume it to be. It looks something between dark green seaweed and frogs' spawn, and appears to be spreading. I have at times tried various remedies ; spread fresh soil over the surface, wood ashes, Watson's sand, rotten manure, but all to little purpose. I fear that if I turfed it the turf would share the same fate, unless X first broke it up, covered it with soil to a fair depth, and then turfed it — a very costly process. Per. haps the drainage is defective, but this fangus, I see, is appearing on a steep slope (chalk also) which has been turfed. It any one could suggest a remedy, I should be greatly obliged.— A Subscriber. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE PLOWEE QAEDEN. Sweet-scented Virgin's Bower (Clematis Flammula).— Amongat the many gond creepers, newaud old, for cohering walls and trellis work, this is one of trie best, haDginf^just now in wreaths ot white, perfuming tho air, Ic is a useful 8ort tor cutting from, and it is admirable in many ways either in the Willi garaen, the sbrubherj, over the cottage porch, garlanding a railing, tangled among the t-hnihs iu a vula garden, clambenog uo an old iree-stump, swinging on cham-wreaths, or taking care of itselt in a hedgerow. — A. H. T. Green Carpet Bedding Plants.— There are several dwarf, bright, preon- leaved pants suitable for carpet bedding, among which Sedam acre, 8. lydiom, Cerastuim arvense, Hyrethram Tchihaiohe-vii. Ta^otea Bignat* ptimiia. are, pt«rhap», tho moHt popular ; but t hie year .Mentha Pulegium gibraltarica has been ueed with excellent effect tor tbaL purpoeo, forming, hh it does, a tiat Burtace of unsurpassed venlure. Another plant, not eutUoiently well known fur the sarao purpose, is Me^embryanthemjm cirdifolmm, iho greeo-leared type of the sott, yellow-leaved plant now usod so extensively in the parka. — B. Bedding Plants from Seed (ace p. 213).— There are many good plants eait- ablo for betidin:^' that are hardy or will stand the winter well in a cold frame, such as Sedums, some of the Echeveriaa and Sempervivums, Calceolarias, Viola't, &c. Violusand Paniio^* are perfectly hardy, and will mtke a good ehow of bloom in Fummer. Tha different forms of Troprcolum compactum, the dwarf yellow bedding Marigold, the rich and varied I'urms of the bedding Phloxes, Agoraturos, Gildcn Feather, Amarantus, Beet, kc, can all be raitsed from spring- sown seed. Lobelias also, although best from curtinge, will jet come fairly true from seed, and these are indispeusablu in any eCTeuttve bedding arraogemeat. — U. Othonna crassifalia.— This is a noat groenhouae shrub of trailing habit, liaviug somewhat tho asprct of a Sedum, with wiry, elongated stems, set with short, cylindrical, tltishy leavet). Thot^tiictly drooping haoitof thiii plant form4 a very dinlinct and iiitorestiog suhjuct for a ham;iug basket or va<^o in tho conservatory, both current and mature growth being gracelully dependent. The Howors are produced irom tho extreme points of the lower growth, and may be compared ti a miniature Mofiembryanthomuin or Aster-iiko blossom with golden-yellow rayed poialB. When planted out upon exposed moumis of rock- work in sunny exposures, the loaves of this inte)0»ting plant BparkU or glisten in the auubeitmi*, arising from the preaenco of iraxupareut glands or duoU wtlhm the cellular leaf-texture. — >V. Sept. 9, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 261 THE INDOOR GARDEN. A NEW STOVE SHEITB. (PHTLLAHTUUS KOSEUS PICTOS.) This slender-growing, gracefuUy-brancbing shrub has a habib not unlike that of the common Snowberry, and is remarkable for the lightness and variety of its variegated foliage. In the accompanying illustration the natural size of the pinnate foliage is given, and its variegation as far as can be done with- out colour. The plant itself is by no means difficult to manage, and when grown in small pots forms a pretty little shrub 1 ft. or more in height, a condition in which it is very useful for dinner-table or other decorative purposes. Old plants of it cut back furnish fresh brightly-tinted sprays well adapted for cutting for vases or even for bouquets, as they associate well with fresh green Maiden-hair and other Ferns. As in the case of Ferns, the best de- veloped growths should be selected for cutting. The foliage is of a dark green colour, variously blotched and marbled with creamy-white, the stems and tips of the shoots being of a bright rosy- pink colour. No two leaves are alike in variegation, some being nearly pure white, while others, especially the young- est, are deeply suffused with rose or rosy-purple. The plant grows satisfactorily in a warm greenhouse or plant- stove, and well deserves culture, being one of the most elegant of new fine-foliaged plants. It is one of Messrs. Veitch's latest introductions, andwill shortly be distributed. It received first-class certifi- cates at South Kensington and Kegent's Park when exhibited during the present year. B. EUPHORBIAS. Although the genus Eu- phorbia is very prolific as regards species, still there are but few that commend them- selves to the attention of cul- tivators of stove plants — not more than two, indeed — E. jacquiniffiflora (or fulgens) and E. splendens, from the Isle of France, the latter at ono time met with in every stove, but of late years not so much grown as formerly. The fashion for button-hole flowers has, however, brought it into favour again, as the colour and the endurance of its blos- soms especially adapt it for the purpose. There is another very useful property possessed by this species of Euphorbia to an extent existent in but few plants, and that is, the continuous succession of flowers which it produces. A fair-sized specimen of it under good treatment will keep on blooming the whole year round. I have had a plant of this Euphorbia that was never out of flower for seven years, and for anything I know would have continued as much longer, had it not been re- moved (it was on the end wall of a stove) to make way for some alterations that were considered necessary. Where cut flowers for the above purpose, or for putting in small glasses, are required, I know of no plant that will produce them so continuously; it also possesses the merit of being easily grown. Its general habit is so different from that of E. jacquiniEeflora as to demand separate treatment. E. splendens \ Phyllanthus roseus pictua, is armed with numbers of stout spines ; the leaves are com- paratively small, and the shoots of a succulent character. Cuttings made from firm pieces of the wood will root at any time of the year, but are generally the most satisfactory when struck in the spring. Pieces of the points of the shoots, if taken offi4 in. or 5 in. in length, and laid for a day in the stove after being severed from the plant, po as to allow the base to dry up a little, should then be put singly in small pots drained and filled with a mixture of two-thirds silver sand to one of sifted loam ; they will root readily, but must not be kept too wet or covered with a propagating glass, as from their succu- lent nature and the comparatively little leaf surface they possess, they do not require to be confined to prevent flagging as m the case of most plants. They are also liable to rot if covered m a moist atmosphere ; place them in a temperature of 65° la the night. When struck they may be allowed to remain in the small pots until they have made a considerable quantity of roots. As solar heat in- creases the house may be kept 5° warmer in the night, increasing it to 80° in the daytime with sun-heat. In June put them in 6-in. pots ; these should be drained to one-fourth their depth, cover- ing the crocks with a little fibrous material. They will do the best in good loam broken by hand in small pieces ; to this add one-sixth crocks, broken to the size of horse Beans, and a like quan. tity of sand. In the cultiva- tion of this Euphorbia thorough drainage and porosity of soil are indispen- sable to success, being careful not to over-pot ; it does not require nearly so much root- room in any stage of its growth proportionate to its size as most plants ; no shading will be found neces- sary, as it is naturally a sun- loving subject, the lighter the situation and the more fully exposed to the sun the stouter will be the growth, with increased amount of bloom. As soon as they have got fairly into growth take off the points to induce them to break several shoots ; give water as required, but the soil should never be kept so wet as for plants possessing more leaf surface and of a less succulent character. The treatment needed through the summer will be nothing more than a con- tinuation as so far recommended, giving air every day, and keeping them in the driest part of the house, as they do not want so much moisture in the air as the generality of stove plants, the drier atmosphere of a Pine stove being more in accordance with their requirements. In autumn reduce the heat and keep them through the winter in a night temperature of 60°, with 5° or 10° more in the day. In the spring, again, gradually give more heat as the days lengthen, and shift them into pots 2in. or 3 in. larger, using similar soil to that previously advised. The plant is naturally of a branching, bushy habit, and does not generally require much stopping; but if such appear to be needed, let it be done in time to induce their being well furnished with shoots at the base; it is naturally so free a flowerer that it will bloom in a very small size without interfering much with its growth; consequently as the flowers appear they may be allowed to open, and can be used as re- ^!r 262 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 0, 1876. quired. Put a stick to the main stem sufficiently stout to give the necessary support, aud a few to the outer branches, as the liead is naturally heavy and requires to he thus held in shape. The after mauasement requisite will simply be a continuation of the above treatment, each year giving a little more pot room as required until the specimens get to the size wanted, when they may be kept in a growing condition by the help of manure-water during the summer, at times examining the drainage to see that it is right. The plant is well adapted for covering a wall in the stove, and there is no situation where it looks better, or where its peculiar shape and intense scarlet flowers are seen to more advantage ; but the position in which it is placed should always be near the glass on account of its light-loving qualities. E. jacquiniroflora is very different in habit and general appearance from the last ; it blooms in winter, at which time its intense scarlet-flowered, wreath-liko shoots are unsurpassed by any plant in cultivation. It is a free-grower, and equally free in blooming; the flowers last well either on the plant or when out and placed in water ; it gives a succession from a second growth, which the plants will make after the first flowering shoots have been cut. The beauty of the flowers is much enhanced by the dark-green lanceolate leaves, which form a background to them ; it combines well with almost any other description of flower, being especially suited for using in large vases, where its flat sprays can with the greatest advaiitage be employed as a base for lighter-coloured things. Some growers have experienced a difficulty in striking it from cuttings. The soft sappy nature of the young shoots, if taken off after they have extended considerably, causes them to be very subject to damp ; in fact, if cuttings be made in the ordinary way very few will root, but if in the spring the young shoots that are made after the plants have bloomed are taken oil with a heel when about 5 in. or 6 in. in length, and inserted in small pots, drained and filled with silver sand, placed in a temperature of 70^ and covered with propagating glasses, not one in twenty will fail ; it is the heel of partially solidified wood that is essential to success, which must be kept finite moist ; so managed, they will root in a few weeks ; after that remove the glasses and let them have plenty of light. When they get fairly established, move them into 4-in. pots ; they thrive well in good fibrous loam, to which add one-fifth of Band, and drain the pots sufficiently, as the roots are very impatient of stagnant moisture. Do not give too much water till they get well hold of the soil. The plant has naturally an erect habit ; not disposed to branch out much. To counteract this the shoots should be stopped or bent down when they get fairly into growth, so as to induce them to break back. The temperature may now be allowed to rise in the day to 80°, with sun-heat, giving air in the morning, according to the state of the weather, and closing while the sun is on the glass suffi- ciently to raise the heat for an hour or two up to 85° or 90°, syringing overhead at the same time. Be careful at all times, but especially after potting, not to overwater, for the plant does not make so many roots as most things, and will not bear the soil being too wet. They will require a thin shade when the sun is powerful, but should have plenty of light, or the natural straggling habit will be still further increased. By the end of June they ought to be moved into their flowering-pots ; 7 in. diameter will be large enough, using soil similar to that in which they were last put, with the addition of one-sixth rotten manure. Again tie down the shoots, bending the points down considerably, which will cause several of the back eyes to push. With this Euphorbia, as the plants get larger, bedding the shoots is preferable to pinching out the points, as it will induce more eyes to break. Place a single stick to each plant, which will be sufficient to support them ; continue the treatment as to heat, water, air, and a thin shade when necessary, until the end of August, when dispense with shading and the use of the syringe, giving more air, which will gradually suspend further growth and ripen up the shoots. As the autumn advances, reduce the tem- perature to G0° in the night, giving &° more in the day. If they bo required in bloom by the end of the year, it will be necessary to keep a portion of the plants 5° warmer, standing them where the tops of the shoots will all but touch the glass. This is necessary, to impart both colour and substance to the flower. As the flowers become apparent at the axils of the leaves, the plants will be greatly benefited by manure- water, which will not only assist the first blooms they make, but enable them to make the second growth strong, which will .also bloom. Such plants as are kept cooler to succeed the first lot must not have too much water at the roots, especi- ally if kept a little nndor 60' in the night ; but it is not safe to admit them to a much lower temperature than this ; before they are required to bloom they muse be kept warmer, which will in a few weeks cause the flowers to open. After the flowering is over allow the soil to get considerably drier, and head the plants down to within 6 in. of the pots, keeping them in a temperature of 6-5° in the night, and giving no more water than will just prevent the soil getting quite dry, until they have broken, and made several inches of growth, when, if more plants be required, the shoots may be taken oS and struck, as in the preceding spring ; the rest of the plants should bo turned out of the pots, and two-thirds of the old soil removed, giving them 2-in. larger pots, which will be large enough to grow them on through the ensuing summer, assist- ing them with manure-water when the soil gets well filled with roots, treating in other respects as advised for the preced- ing season. This Euphorbia is also very suitable for growing on a back wall, in which position it looks well ; but the flowers will not be so high-coloured as when they expand in close proximity to the glass. If planted out in such a situation the border should be limited in size, for if the roots be in too great a body of soil they are very liable to decay when the plant is hard cut in, which it requires after blooming, at which time and until some growth has been made, the soil must be kept almost dry. Through treatment the opposite of this, the Euphorbia, when so situated, very often dies after being cut back ; otherwise, as also when grown in pots, it will last for years. Both these Euphorbias are less subject to insects than most stove plants, although thrips and spider will some- times attack them; for these syringing and fumigating afford the best means of destruction. Should mealy bug make its appearance, lay the plants on their sides .and repeatedly syringe freely with tepid water, washing with insecticide in the winter when at rest, dressing similarly for brown scale in the dormant season, and using the sponge when the plants are growing, as at that time they would not bear the insecticide strong enough to kill the insects. White scale is so difficult to thoroughly eradicate when once it gets upon stove plants such as these that are easily propagated and grown quickly, that it is better to start afresh with clean cuttings, which should be inserted as previously recommended. T. Baines. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE INDOOR QAEDEN. Ca'ble Edgings.— For conservatories, corridors, or any glnss etrncture requirincr a good permanent edging, especially when the plant, ping has been done, now that the Potatoes are dug, the Broccoli should bo earthed np, for the haulm of tho Potatoes having prevented a sturdy growth, the wind and a few hot days would otherwise soon injure them. As ground becomes vacant, other kindsof winter greens may still be planted, such as Kales, Coleworts, &o., but any gronnd that it is desired to expose fully to tho frosts of winter should remain vacant, and be roughly dug or ridged up as soon as oppor. tunity offers. It is not yet too late to sow Turnips, and those recently sown should be thinned out ; the ravages of the Turnip fly have been unusually severe this dry season, but later crops promise better, and those sown now may escape altogether. On warm situa- tions Spinach may still be sown with a fair prospect of its doing well ; that sown a week or two ago may be thinned out to 9 in. or 12 in. asunder, for nothing is gained by leaving the plants thicker together than this. CauliHowers that were sown in the middle of last month will now bo ready to prick out, and those intended for early nae next spring, and which are to be protected during the winter by hand-lights, onght to bo pricked out in them at once ; double or even treble the number of plants intended to stand may be planted in them and drawn out as growth progresses, and transplant- ed in other favourable positions as soon as the severity of winter is past; of course, the covers of tho hand-lights will not be required for use till there is danger of injury from frost; a batch may also be pricked out at the bottom of a, south wall and left to stand the winter in that position. In this district these invariably turn out the best plants, and furnish the finest Cauliflowers of the whole year. Let. tuccs and Enriivo should be thinned out during showery weather, and if necessary the thinnings may be planted, though as a rule it is best to sow where the plants are to stand, as in that case their growth is much more satisfactury. Small saladinga will shortly have to be transferred to the indoor department, and at this eeason, when Sept. 9, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 269 Balads are more tlian usually in requeBt, care should be taken that no break oconra in the supply. Tie up Endive on dry days to blanch it, and it necessary Lettnce also, but now that there are so many kinds of Lettuces of compact growth that blanch without tying, it is not worth while to grow others. — W. Wildsmiih, Heclcfield. BARREN TUBEROSES. TuBEKS of these lovely sweet-scented plants do not always prove satisfactory. They are generally potted in light, rich soil, in aututon, say in August, after which the pots are plunged in a pit or frame until the tubers throw out roots, when they are removed into heat, and kept there until they flower. Like the bulbs of the Hyacinth, the tubers of this plant bloom only once satisfactorily, after which they should be thrown away, as fully ripened tubers are imported annually, and can be obtained at a moderate price. There are both single and double varieties of Tuberoses, and one variety, called The Pearl, is very dwarf, rarely exceeding 18 in. in height, and it blooms very freely. Our object now is, however, not so much to give cultural instruction or describe varieties, as to point out a disease to which the Tuberose is liable, viz., going black in the centre, especially if exposed to cold or wet ; and whenever this hap- pens, the tubers never bloom. Our engravings show a sound Sound Tuber. Unsound Tuber. healthy tuber, in which the incipient flower-spike ia visible, and also a tuber in which it is destroyed by cold and damp ; in the latter case, as will be seen, the young flower-spike has rotted away, leaving a black cavity. Whenever a consignment of Tuberoses is received, it is advisable to pick out a few of the tubers promiscuously, and cut them through longitudinally, so as to make sure that the sample is a sound one. This is especially necessary in the case of tubers which have been kept over the winter for planting in the spring, in order to afford a succession of bloom. Tuberoses, when well grown and flowered, are greatly appreciated by everybody; and if strong sound tubers be obtained few flowers are more easily cultivated, their value as cut flowers for button-hole and other bouquets being enhanced by the sucoessional way in which the flowers expand from the base of the spikes upwards. With sound tubers a light rich soil and plenty of light, heat, and moisture, success, as regards their culture, is almost certain. B. Effect ef Drought on the Distribution of Plants.— This forms the sub- ject of an interesting no'e communicated by M. Eugene Robert to tbe Academy of Sciences. In the mountain woods in some parts of Prance, the long drought in the eai ly part of last year had a very detrimental effect on the Mosses and Lichens, which everywhere showed large patches of decay. The result was a conspicuous spreading of other forms of vegetation, such as Brasses, Thymes, Sages, and legumiuose plants. GARDEN RECEIPTS. Birds and Seeds. Seeds of all kinds great and small are subject to the attacks of birds, more particularly in small gardens. In the market gardens, where Radishes are sown by the acre, a boy is regularly employed to keep off these marauders. In the small breadth required in a private garden it would not pay to employ labour in that way, yet if nothing be done, a very few finches would, in a single day, destroy a crop. The best remedy is to dress all seeds with red lead. The dressing, to be effectual, must be done thoroughly. The best method is to place in a large tea- saucer as much seed as it is the intention to sow, on which sprinkle a very few drops of water, for if they be made too wet, the seeds and the lead will stick together ,in a mass ; then take a teaspoonful of dry, powdered red lead, and stir the whole thoroughly until all the seed is well coated with lead ; let it stand for a couple of hours to dry before sowing — this is necessary, or the lead will wash off with the rain ; whilst, if laid on with the right amount of moisture, and well dried, it will adhere to the outer covering of the seed, even when it appears above ground. With a little practice in the prepara- tion of the various seeds that thus fall a prey to birds, the amateur will soon be able to judge when he has hit upon the right degree of moisture required before applying the lead, and upon which depends the perfect preparation. Half a pound of red lead will last a season, and the trouble is nothing when compared with the blank crops. Paraffin oil has been also recommended. An experiment lately made for the pur- pose of testing its power to keep birds from eating seeds when sown, proved so far successful that, of a handful of Radish seed soaked in the oil for fifteen minutes and then sown, not a seed appeared to have been taken, for all came up freely, and no iroteotion was afforded, although birds were very abundant. Petroleum or benzoline would of course answer the same purpose. Bleeding in Vines. This seldom occurs, except in the case of late Vines, on which the Grapes are allowed to hang until the sap begins to flow, and which consequently bleed when pruned. The most effectual remedy, therefore, is to cut the Grapes as soon as the wood is ripe and put the stalks of the bunches in bottles of charcoal water, in which they will keep as soundly and well as if left on the Vines. The latter can then be pruned while in a dormant state, when bleeding will, as a matter of course, be prevented. When, however, bleeding does occur, the following remedies will be found to be effectual : — Collodion. — One of the best styptics is collodion, an in- valuable remedy for stopping the bleeding of Vines, or for coating the bases of cuttings which are extremely liable to damp off. It can be applied with a feather or small brush. In some extreme cases two or three coats will be needed, in which case allow the collodion to form a film before applying another coat. Pharmaceutical collodion is better than photo- graphic for this purpose, the film being thicker and firmer. Hot iron. — Apply a hot iron to the bare surface until it ia charred, and then rub into the charred surface a paste made of newly-burnt lime and grease. Knight's Plaister. — This is considered a very effectual appli- cation, and is thus made : — -One-fourth of calcined oyster-shells or ordinary quicklime beaten to fine powder in a mortar, and three-fourths of cheese, worked together until they form a sort of paste. This mixture is to be forced into the pores of the wood, where bleeding takes place, by means of the thumb and finger. A second application is sometimes necessary. Tai: — It often happens that, either byintention as in pruning, or by accident, other trees besides the Vine are wounded in various ways. A common practice is to cover large wounds with coal-tar, but this is objected to by some as injurious to the tree. Experiments made in the orchard? and gardens of the Pomological Institute, at Reutliugen, in Germany, go to show, however, that its use in covering large wounds is not injurious ; but that, on the contrary, a callus readily forms under the tar on the edges of the wound, and that the wounded part is thus protected from decay. There is, never- theless, another objection, viz., if the tar be applied a little too thick, the sun melts it and it runs down on the bark of the 270 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 9, 1876. tree. This can be obviated by mixing and stirring, and thus incorporating with the tar about three or four times its weight of powdered slate, known as slate flour — the mixture being known as plastic slate, and used for roofing purposes. It is easily applied with an old knife or flat stick, and though it hardens on the surface, it remains soft and elastic underneath. The heat of the sun does not melt it, the coldest winter weather does not cause it to crack, neither does it peel off. Tobacco Dust. — Mr. Baillie, of Beaufront Castle, Hexham, gives the preference to Tobacco dust. He says : — After pruning our early Vinery this winter a Muscat of Alexandria commenced bleeding profusely from more than one wound, owing to its ])roximity to a warm drain, through which pipes are led to a range of plant-houses. We tried various remedies for stop- ping the bleeding, but without effect until we used Pooley's Tobacco dust, which was rubbed well into the wounds, dusting them afterwards with the dry dust. The effect was almost instantaneous, the wounds being sufficiently dry in a few hours to receive a dressing of Thomson's Styptic. Many Vine- growers use Stockholm tar with a little ochre or .umber to give it more substance. Boiler Incrustations. Ordinary boiler incrustations, resulting from the use of hard water, consist chiefly of carbonate and sulphate of lime, the former salt always being in excess. Carbonate of lime sepa- rates itself gradually from hard water when the temperature is raised to the boiling point, and in the course of time assumes a crystalline form. Hard crystalline masses or stone- like deposits are thus formed in steam boilers, which greatly interfere with the economical production of steam. The best plan of preventing the formation of boiler deposits is to soften the water by Clark's lime process, which is described below. The next best plan is to add to the water a solution of caustic soda ; to allow the precipitate to settle, and to use the clear water for feeding the boiler; or if it be considered too much trouble to soften the water in this way, caustic soda dissolved in water may be put into the steam boiler. By this means the precipitation of the carbonate of lime, as well as the removal of the sulphate of lime is effected, and the small amount of lime which does fall down is far less crystalline than it is when no procipitatiug agent is employed. The formation of crystalline and hard incrustations in boilers may also be prevented to a great extent by placing in the boiler Potato peelings, spenc tan, peat-mould, coarse sawdust, or chips of Oak wood and bark, or similar materials which act in a purely mechanical manner in preventing the agglomeration of crystalline parti- cles of carbouate of lime into hard masses. Several composi- tions sold as preventives of boiler incrustations act mainly in a mechanical way, and others in part chemically and in part mechanically. A favourite composition sold under various names consists of a combination of crude tannic acid, produced from gum catechu or Oak bark, or other astringent raw materials with bone gelatine or glue. Crude tannic acid and caustic soda are likewise constituents of several fluids recom- mended as preventives of boiler deposits. The following is the principle of Dr. Clark's process: — Carbonate of lime is scarcely soluble in pure distilled water, a gallon being capable of holding only about 2 grains in solution. In river or spring water, however, carbonate of lime is held in solution by car- bonic acid, or, in other words, exists as bicarbonate of lime. On boiling, the second equivalent of carbonic acid in the soluble bicarbonate is expelled, and neutral carbouate of lime precipitated. Caustic lime, when added to hard water in sufficient quantity, neutralises the carbonic acid, removes the solvent, and becoming at the same time carbonate of lime, is preci]iitatcd with thaD originally in solution. Clark's process is peculiarly well adapted to the softening of chalk springs, which owe their hardness almost entirely to carbonate and not to Hiilphate of lime, a constituent which cannot be removed by heating or by the lime process, and which renders water per- manently hard. The composition of spring or well water from the chalk strata varies but little in different localities. ^ lb. of caustic lime made into milk in a pailful of water, may be thrown into the tank for every 400 gallons used in the boiler. When caustic soda is used, about 2 oz. or 3 oz. to every 100 gallons of water should be thrown into the boiler. An excess of caustic soda will not injure the boiler in any wav. All depends, however, on the hardness of the water, which can only be ascertained by experiment. Cabbage Grub. In old soils all the Cabbage kind. Broccoli and Cauliflowers especiallj-, have a tendency to form club roots, owing to the attacks of the Cabbage Grub or larva of the Curculio contractus, a small insect belonging to the beetle tribe. The damage it causes is often a serious matter for the gardener, as it nearly destroys whole crops, and makes very inconvenient gaps, especially in summer Cauliflowers. When the grubs first attack a crop there is nothing to indicate thoir presence until the plants begin to turn an unhealthy colour ; then they flag in the sun, and in a few days the crop is lost. There is no variety of the Cabbage tribe quite free from this pest, although the different kinds of Winter Kale, as well as Red Cabbage, are less frequently affected than Cauliflowers and summer Cabbages. Lime and Soot. — One of the best methods of preventing the inroads of Cabbage Grubs is to make each plant unpalatable to them. In the spring procure some newly-burnt lime, and lay it under cover until it becomes air-slaked. Then take an equal quantity of soot and mix it with the lime. In planting, the holes are made witja the trowel in the iisual way; each plant is dropped into its hole, an inch or so of the soil put over the roots, a good watering given first, then a moderate handful of the soot and lime mixture thrown in each hole, and the remain- ing soil filled in. Soot and Garden Soil have also been recommended as a specific. Take equal parts of soot and fine garden soil, tho- roughly mix them with water to the consistency of thin mortar, and dip the plants in the mixture up to the base of the leaves before planting. This is said to be a safe and never-failing preventive of clubbing. Wood Ashes mixed with water and put into the holes after watering is also a favourite remedy in wood-burning districts. Some ashes should also be incorporated with the soil of the seed-bed, as well as strewed over the ground generally. Another remedy is to dip the roots of the plants before putting them into the gi'ound into a mixture of soot and water, with the addition of a little saltpetre. This should be made of the consistency of thick paint, using 1 lb. of saltpetre to each gallon of soot. Charcoal dust, spread 4 in. thick on the plot, and then just mixed with it by the point of the spade, will sometimes act as a preventive, and is always of some benefit. A dressing of lime from the gasworks, at the rate of twelve bushels to the acre, has also been found effectual. In applying the above remedies great care must be taken not to put in the mixture first and water the plants afterwards, as this would have the effect of washing the stems clean and taking the mixture down into the soil away from where it is required, thus affording no protection to the plants. Caterpillars. Cabbage C.weiu>illar. — One of the best methods of dimin- ishing the ravages of this pest is by destroying the chrysalis before it is transformed into the egg-laying, perfect butterfly. When preparing to enter the chrysalis state it leaves the plant on which it has so greedily fed, and seeks a safe retreat and a, firm object to which it may attach itself by its silken moor- ings. The places of retreat most generally selected are the under surface of projecting copings and joints of garden walls, doorways, chinks or hollows in stone-work or the under surface of the gutter, beam, wall plate, slips, or other woodwork of Vineries or plant-liouses. When the place is fixed upon the transformation commences, and the caterpillar becomes the apparently lifeless chrysalis, firmly fixed by a cord of silk to the surface it has selected for its resting-place. It is as well to employ a boj' and stimulate his exertions by the promise of a few pence for every pint of chrysalis he collects from the garden and its surroundings ; this will be found the best means of abating the caterpillar pest. Bracken. — A writer in the " Belgique Horticole " having observed in the garden of a peasant that the Cabbages were covered with fronds of the common Bracken (Pteris aquilina). Sept. 9, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 271 inquired the reason, and was told by the owner that it was a certain and easy way to get rid of the Caterpillars. He made a trial of the remedy himself, and he states that in one hour after the Bracken fronds were laid on not a Caterpillar was to be seen. Elder leaves are said to be equally efficacious. Hemp. — M. Ad. Sucy, in a letter to the " Kevue Horticole," recommends the use of Hemp for the purpose of destroying caterpillars. He says : — Many years ago I saw an individual sowing broadcast a coarse grey powder on beds of Cabbages, which were almost devoured by legions of Caterpillars. On inquiry I found that this was nothing else than the refuso of beaten Hemp, and consisted of fragments of the dried and broken leaves, and particularly of the crushed seed-vessels. In half-an-hour all the Caterpillars had fallen down dead, as if suffocated. He then goes on to suggest the sowing of rows of Hemp in beds of Cabbages, Cauliflowers, &o., stating his im- pression that the odour of the Hemp plants would exercise a sufficiently repulsive influence to protect the vegetables from the attacks of the caterpillars, and conchides by expressing his opinion that watering Cabbages, &c., with water in which Hemp had been steeped would be attended with equally bene- ficial results. Celery Fly. The larvEB of the Celery Fly (Tephrites onopordinis) in some seasons do much mischief to the Celery crops, and as yet no effectual remedy has been discovered. When Celery is infested with the iarvffi the leaves become blistered and turn yellow, and as the grubs are underneath the blisters, they may be crushed between the finger and thumb. The grubs, when full- grown, descend into the earth, and remain in the chrysalis state until the following spring, when they give birth to the riy, which in due course deposits the eggs on the leaves. Therefore, to prevent the attack of the pest next year, leaves badly infested should be removed and burnt, to prevent the grubs attaining their full development. Mr. Rose, of St. George's Hill, Byfleet, having been for some years troubled with Celery Fly, filled a 36-galIon water-barrow with sufficient water to dissolve two 1-lb. boxes of Gishurst Com- pound, mixing with it 1 lb. of Pooley's Tobacco Powder, and filling up the whole with boiling water, stirring all well to- gether. The mixture, after being allowed to stand for some twenty-four hours, was used to water the affected Celery plants — a watering can with a very fine rose being employed for the purpose. The plants, having been well saturated with this mixture, were then examined, and the grubs which had bur- rowed into the leaves were all found to be dead. The crop, too, seemed to be greatly improved, the mixture having evidently acted not only as an insecticide, but as a fertiliser. About three weeks after he repeated the same treatment with another crop, with precisely the same results. Cements. It may, pei'haps, be necessary to explain that the word " parts " in the receipts given below means parts by weight, i.e., pounds, ounces, drachms, or grains. Boiler Cement. — (I) Chalk, 60 parts ; lime and salt, of each 20 parts ; sharp sand, 10 parts ; blue or red clay and clean iron filings, of each 5 parts. Grind together and calcine. Used to stop cracks and leaks in iron boilers, pipes, stoves, &c. (2) Powdered clay, 6 lbs. ; iron filings, 1 lb. Make into a paste with linseed oil. (3) Powdered litharge, 2 parts ; silver sand and slaked lime, of each 1 part ; boiled oil enough to form a paste. Must be used directly it is made, a remark that will apply to all cements of this class. See also " Iron Cements " below. _ Bottle Cement— (I) Resin, 5 lbs. ; beeswax, 1 lb. Stir in suffi- cient red ochre and Brunswick green or lamp-black to give the desired colour. Used for sealing bottles, barrels, &c. (2) Black pitch, 6 lbs. ; ivory black and whiting, of each 1 lb. ; to be melted together. This is cheaper than the above and quite as effectual, but it does not look so well. Gbppersmitlis' Cement. — Bullock's blood thickened with sufficient finely -powdered quicklime to make it into a paste is used to secure the edges and rivets of copper boilers, to mend leaks in joints, &c. It must be used immediately it is mixed, as it soon gets hard. Ic may be used for many other purposes, which will easily suggest themselves. Earthenware Cement. — Grated cheese, 2 parts ; quicklime in fine powder, 1 part ; fresh white of egg enough to form a paste ; the ingredients should be thoroughly incorporated and laid on as soon as possible. Used for china and earthenware. For fine work liquid glue may be used. Fireproof Cement. — Fine river sand, 20 parts; litharge, 2 parts ; quicklime, 1 part ; linseed oil enough to form a thin paste. Applied to walls it soon acquires a stony hardness. It is also useful to mend broken stonework. Glass Cement. — Dissolve 6 pieces of gum mastic the size of a large Pea in as much methylated spirit as will suffice to render them liquid; in another bottle dissolve the same quantity of isinglass, previously soaked in water and allowed to get surface-dry, in 2 oz. of methylated spirit ; when dis- solved add 2 pieces of either gum galbanum or gum ammoniac, applying a gentle heat and stirring ; add the solution of isin- glass, again heating and stirring. Keep in a tightly-stoppered bottle, and when wanted for use set the phial in boiling water. This cement, when carefully prepared, is perfectly colourless, and is used for uniting delicate glass vessels. The edges of the broken article must be warmed and pressed tightly together to squeeze out the superfluous cement. For broken flower vases this is the best possible cement. An excellent cement for stopping cracks in glass vessels, to resist moisture and heat, is made by dissolving pressed curd in a cold saturated solution of borax. With this solution paste strips of hog's or bullock's bladder, softened in water, on the cracks of glass, and dry at a gentle heat. If the vessel is to be heated, coat the bladder on the outside, just before it has become quite dry, with a paste of a rather concentrated solution of washing soda and quicklime or plaster of Paris. Hydraulic Cements. — These are cements which have the property of hardening under water. There are several of ihem sold under different names, but the best is that known as Portland Cement. Its principal uses in the garden are obvious ; amongst those which are not so apparent are the following : — When made into a thin solution like whitewash, this cement gives woodwork all the appearance of having been painted and sanded. Piles of stone may be set together with common mortar, and then the whole washed over with this cement, making it look like one immense block of grey sand- stone. For temporary use a flour barrel may have the hoops nailed, so as not to fly apart, and the inside washed with a thin paste of Portland cement, and it will serve for a year or more to hold water. Boards nailed together and washed with it make good hot-water tanks ; and it is of use in so many ways that it may be regarded as one of those peculiar things in a garden which it is always good to have at hand. Iron Cements. — -These are used for closing the joints of water pipes and similar purposes. We select the following from a large number of formulae : — (1) Sal ammoniac, 2 oz. ; sulphur, 1 oz. ; clean iron borings or fllings reduced to powder, 12 lbs. ; water enough to form a thick paste. (2) Sal ammoniac, 2 oz. ; iron borings; 8 lbs. ; water enough. (3) Some authorities state that the strongest cement is made without sulphur, and with only one or two parts of sal ammoniac to one hundred of iron borings. When the work is required to set quickly, the quantity of sal ammoniac is slightly increased, and a very small amount of sulphur is added. This addition makes it set more quickly, but reduces its strength. No more of these cements should be made at a time, for they soon spoil. (4) Iron borings, 4 lbs. ; pipe clay, 2 lbs. ; powdered potsherds, 1 lb., made into a paste with moderately strong brine produce a cement of great strength when allowed to harden slowly. It is an excellent material for mending cracks in boilers. (5) Equal parts of red and white lead mixed into a paste with boiled linseed oil, form excellent cement for making metallic joints of all kinds. A washer of hemp, yarn, or canvas smeared with the cement, is placed in the joint, which is then screwed up tight. It also serves to join broken stones, and when brought to the proper tint by the addition of the necessary colour, it is very handy for mending chipped stonework, balustrades, vases, &c. (6J To four or five parts of clay thoroughly dried and pulverized, add two parts of iron filings free from oxide, one part of peroxide of manganese, one-half of sea salt, and one-half of borax. Mingle thorotighly, and render as fine as possible ; then reduce to a thick paste with the necessary quantity of water, mixing 272 THE GARDEN. 3ept. 9. 1876. thoroughly well. It must be used immediately. After appli- cation it should be exposed to warmth, gradually increasing almost to white heat. Liquid Glue. — Finest pale orange shellac broken small, 4 oz.; methylated spirit, 3 oz.; digest in a warm place in a closely corked bottle until dissolved. It .should have the consistency o£ treacle. Or, borax, 1 oz. ; water, J pint ; shellac as before, 3 oz. ; boil in a closely covered vessel until dissolved ; then evaporate until nearly as thick as treacle. The first dries very quickly, the second much more slowly. Used for common glass, china, wood, stone, &c. When used for wood, a layer ol very thin muslin should be interposed. The Chinese archers mend their bows with this cement. It may also be used for fixing paper to wood, metal, or glass when exposed to damp. Paper labels cemented on to wood with this composition and tben dipped into melted paraffin will stand the weather for an almost indefinite period. It cannot be too strongly insisted upon, that the less cement there is between the edges of any mended article, the less likely they are to part company. Tar Cement. — Coal-tar, 1 part; powdered slate (slate flour), 3 or 4 parts ; mix by stirring until thoroughly incorporated. This forms an excellent cement for some purposes ; it is easily applied with an old knife or a flat stick, and though it hardens on the surface it remains soft and elastic underneath. The heat of the sun does not melt it, and the coldest weather does not cause it to crack or peel off. Leaky watering-pots, barrels, pails, shutters, sashes, &o., can be easily repaired with it, and much annoyance and loss of time be thus avoided. It will stick to any surface provided it be not oily, and as it does not harden when kept in a mass, it is always ready for use. A gallon will last for a long time. Cockchafers. The Melolontha vulgaris, or common Cockchafer, is a most destructive insect, both as a grub and in the perfect condition. The remedies which have been proposed and tried, with more or less success, are numberless. They almost all, however, bear upon the dislodging of the insects from a particular spot, rather than upon a more summary mode of dealing with them. Perhaps the most efficacious is the collecting of the insects and their grubs. The collecting, however, must be continuous and not intermittent, and must be persisted in as long as any are to be seen ; and to have a fair chance of success it must be followed, not only by one, but by all neighbouring landholders at the same time. For the perfect insect it ought to take place either very early in the morning or on a very rough day, when the Chafers are hanging loosely to the trees witb drawn- tip legs, and when a slight shake or blow with a stick will bring them to the ground. On warm, sunny days they are very lively from six o'clock in the morning, and on shaking the trees they fly away or rise from the ground in a manner which increases the difficulty and seriously lengthens the task of gathering them and putting them in sacks. Sacking spread out under the trees greatly assists in the speedy collecting, saving time, and likewise the trouble of much stooping. The grubs, again, are collected in working the ground. Here the depth at which the insects are lying at the time must be kept in mind, in order that the plougti may bring them to light, and when gathered together, although the impression is correct that they cannot stand the sun, they should under no conditions of weather be deposited in heaps, even upon a firmly-trodden path, as the undermost can easily bore their way through the ground again, and a part of the trouble taken will bo thrown away. Spread flat upon firm ground, with a hot sun shining upon them, they will soon be dead; if there be no sun, they should be put in some wooden tub, or in a, watering-pan. An experienced French gardener gives the following remedy as effectual: — In June, where it is possible, he sows in the garden particularly infested by Cockchafers, and where a largo brood may be expected, rows of salad, which it is well known the grubs are fond of, and by which they are enticed. In August these places are hoed in a hot sun, thus turning up the young grubs gathered round the salad, and if left exposed the sun soon killa them. This simple work is repeated several times on a verjr hot day, and according to the assertion of our informant, during the four years in which he had followed it out he had suffered nothing from the grubs. Mr. Booth, the well-known nurseryman, of Hamburg, says : — "About ten years ago we suffered terribly from Cockchafers, whole planta- tions of Rhododendrons and Conifers being completely destroyed by them. Against such devastation all artificial remedies were more or less powerless. . We then adopted the starling plan. We caused 100 breeding cages to be made of the very simplest construction, and in the spring they were all occupied. As soon as the Cockchafer comes, or is coming out of the earth the starling is there ; it picks the Chafer clean out, tapping about on the ground with its beak until it finds it. Beside almost every hole from which a Cockchafer has escaped one might find the wings and whatever is uneatable, proof enough that the Chafer's enjoyment of life had not been of long duration. We increased the number of cages, and have now from 175 to 200. We have since then had plenty of Cockchafer years, but have not again experienced such injury from them, and in working the ground to a greater depth for them the number of grubs found is comparatively few." Another remedy adopted by French gardeners is to thickly sow the affected ground in autumn with Colza, which is ploughed in as soon as the first frosts begin to make their appearance. Half-decayed Cabbage leaves, or indeed the refuse of any Cruciferous plant, should be ploughed in at the same time. It seems that the Cockchafer grub cannot stand the leaves of any of the Cruciferous plants in a state of fer- mentation, the sulphurous emanations given off by them beirg poisonous to the insect. Planting Cabbages or Turnips in ground infested by the Cockchafer grub is said be effectual in driving them away. Another method, which is only applicable in woods and plantations, is described in the " Merseburgher Official Journal " as having been successfully tried in a nursery belonging to the Royal Forestry at Bischoffsrode, comprising l-j- acres of land, and surrounded by high trees, especially by Oaks, completely ravaged by Cockchafers. Just before the flying time seventeen different spots were artificially pre- pared as breeding places in the following manner : — Alongside the paths, and near the fences, from 3 ft. to 4 ft. square of ground were covered with fresh manure from 5 in. to 6 in. high, without mixture of straw or any other material ; upon this was laid 2 in. or 3 in. of fresh earth, nicely smoothed down and raked. These spots were carefully watched during the flying season, but, owing to the absence of any bored holes, were left undisturbed until the middle of July, when it was discovered that in those spots exposed to the sun the manure was a living mass of grubs \ in. in length, whilst in those places more in the shade the number of eggs was inconceiv- able. These heaps were brought together and collectively burnt outside the nursery. Cockroaches. Cockroaches are often great pests in plant-houses. Mushroom beds, and private houses, where they devour everj'thing within their reach. Arsenic. — Mix some arsenic with honey, and lay it on scraps of paper about the floor for them to eat. If Arsenic be mixed with boiled Potatoes, and laid about in the same way, it will answer the same purpose. Braelcen. — Another remedy is said to be to procure some Bracken, Pteris aquilina, or common Fern, plentiful on com- mons, and put it down about the house at night. The black beetles will cat it ravenouslj' and soon die, and their relatives will pick their bones. It is commonly used in the north of England. lionet/. — Mix some honey and water together. Two teaspoon- fuls of honey will be ample for half aconiinon basinful of water; put the basin on the floor at night, half filled with the mixture, and place three or four small sticks, about J in. wide, to rest on the edges of the basin for the Cockro;iches to walk upon. They will full into the liquid and get drowned. Some tumbler- glasses half filled with the mixture, and sunk to the rim in pits in the tan or soil, make excellent traps for them. Porter and brown sugar is said to be equally efficacious. Oatmeal. — 13ait them well with oatmeal for three or four suo- cessivo nights, or until such time as they feed greedily on it ; then mix some arsenic with the meal for one night, repeating the process from time to time if necessary. Mr. Wilson states Seut. 9, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 273 that if a bowl be wrapped round with a wet cloth they will get into the bowl, from which they cannot escape. Phospliorus. — ■ A very simple and effectual remedy is given in the " Revue Horticole," communicated by M. Loury, chief propagator at the Jardin Fleuriste, Paris. It is as follows : — Dissolve the heads of a couple of boxes of common phosphorus matches (not Safety matches) in a pint and a half of water ; then mix with it about 1 lb. of flour, and add about ^ lb. of sugar, of which these insects are very fond. The mixture may then be distributed in various parts of the house overnight on pieces of board, slates, &c., and when examined in the morning, numbers of dead cockroaches will be found close to wherever the poison has been laid. The remedies given for Crickets are equally effective in the case of Cockroaches. Concrete for rioors and Walks. After the ground on which the iloor or walk is intended to be made is levelled, let it be covered to the thickness of 3 in. or 4 in. with stones, broken small, and well rammed ; upon which let there be run, about I5 in. above the stones, one part, by measure, of Portland cement, and two of coarse sand and fine gravel mixed to a thin consistency with water. Before this coating has become thoroughly set, lay upon it a coat of Port- land cement mixed with an equal part of fine sand, and ^ in. thick. The addition of blood will render this compost harder. Concrete for weak foundations, and for the bottoms of cattle- boxes and manure-pits, when not sufficiently stiff and sound to be impervious to water may be made as follows ; — Newly- burned lime ground to a fine powder, 2 parts ; Portland cement, 1 part; gravel, broken stone or brick, 6 parts. Mix the above with water to a liquid consistency, and let it be thrown into its position from a height of 10 ft. or 12 ft., and when partially set let it be well beaten or rammed to render it solid. Another Concrete for the last two foregoing purposes, and also for garden walks : — Equal parts of gravel, well screened, and clean river or pit sand. With five parts of the mixture of gravel and sand, mix one part of Portland cement. Mix with water, and apply 2 in. thick. For fruit tree borders, having made the excavation, put in a, 3 in. layer of coarse gravel, ram it firm, and then run with concrete, formed of nine parts gravel and one part un- slaked lime ; slake it, and cover it with the gravel, then add BuflBcient water to bring the Concrete to the consistency of very thin mortar; a thickness of 3 in. of Concrete will be necessary. It ought to be made so thin that it must be carried in a bucket. The gravel used should be of the same kind as put upon walks. Let the Concrete stiffen a little until it will bear treading upon ; then roll it firm, or ram it hard, leaving a smooth surface. Let it stand until firm, and then finish with an inch thick of fine gravel mixed with lime, in the proportion of one part lime to three of gravel, and this mixture cannot be too soft. When it becomes stiff and hard, as it will in a few days, put in the rough stones for drainage, not less then 6 in. in thickness, and the drain along the front, which should be placed on the Concrete and be covered with the drainage. If you do not object to the expense, one part in six of Port- land cement added to the lime and gravel for the last 1 in. coating would be more certain to prevent the roots penetrat- ing the Concrete, though we never knew them pass the lime and gravel. In place of 1 in. thick of lime and gravel, you may have a layer ^ in. thick of Portland cement one part, and fine gravel three parts. This when run and dry will resist anything, but it would be more costly. Crictets. Crickets are often troublesome in plant-houses and else- where, especially amongst soft-wooded cuttings or young seedlings ; but they are somewhat eccentric as to food. In some places they will devour greedily a particular plant ; and in others they may exist in quantities, and not even touch the same plant. They may also inhabit a house for a long period without raakingtheir presence known in any way except by their voice. They may be got rid of in the same way as Cockroaches. The following remedies may also be tried : — Arsenic. — Mix some roasted Apple with a little white arsenic powdered ; divide the Apple so prepared into small bits, and place it in saucers in the room at night. — Take 1 pint of oat- meal and 2 oz. of arsenic, together with a little ground Aniseed and Caraway-seed mixed with it. This should be laid on pieces of paper, in convenient places, for the Crickets to partake of it. — Also arsenic and honey may be mixed together, and laid about for them. Lay it in bits, about the size of a small French Bean, on the smooth side of oyster shells, pieces of glass, or broken glazed crockery ; it is necessary to use something that has a hard smooth surface that will not absorb the moisture from it, or it will be so dry after the first night, as to render it useless. By using any of the above-named articles it will be fit for use for three nights. But this preparation must be used with caution, as domestic animals will eat it and be destroyed thereby. On the nights on which it is laid down exclude the garden cats from the houses, or these most useful animals will come to an untimely end. After being used for three nights the poison gets too dry for the Crickets to take it freely. By using it once in three months the insects will not do any serious harm ; but where they have been allowed to get to such a head as we see them sometimes, it is necessary to keep laying down the poison every night for a fortnight or so, to bring them well under. Carbolic Acid. — A little carbolic acid poured into their holes also puts them to flight. Oatmeal. — Get a box with email holes in the top and sides ; put some oatmeal and salt in it, and set the box at night in the room. Rhiibarh Leaves are said to be a cure for Crickets. A large bakehouse was some years ago infested with Crickets. As the hot weather came on the nuisance became very serious, for Crickets were to be found in every possible crevice. The baker was advised to lay some Rhubarb leaves about the place. The light of the next morning revealed nibbled leaves and myriads of dead Crickets ; and this was the last of them in that bakehouse. Water. — Take a dozen of old jam pots, half fill them with water, and at night place them in different parts of the room most infested. Damp Wall3. The " Builder" gives the following remedy for damp walls : — Three-quarters of a pound of mottled soap to 1 gallon of water. This composition to be laid over the brick- work steadily and carefully with a large flat brush, so as not to form a froth or lather on the surface. The wash to remain twenty-four hours to become dry. Mix ^ lb. of alum with 4 gallons of water; 'leave it to stand for twenty -four hours, and then apply it in the same manner over the coating of soap. Let this be done in dry weather. In the case of stone walls the following ingredients, melted and mixed together, and applied hot to the surface of stone, will prevent all damp from entering, and vegetable substance from growing upon it: — 15 lb. rosin, 1 lb. Russian tallow, 1 qt. linseed oil. This simple remedy has been proved upon a piece of very porous stone, made into the form of a basin, and two coats of this liquid being applied caused it to hold water as well as any earthenware vessel. Dyeing, Mosses, Grasses, and Everlasting Flowers may be most easily dyed by means of Judson's Simple Dyes. Dyeing with ordinary dye stuffs is a difficult matter, requiring more chemical experience and knowledge than is generally found amongst amateurs. Receipts for dyeing flowers are frequently given in gardening periodicals, but most of them are useless and impracticable. A list of receipts taken from the German has lately appeared in at least three gardening papers, which contain a series of colouring matters such as Munich lao (? lake) and mineral blue (there are a dozen mineral blues). A solution of borax is said to dye flowers orange, and in one receipt ^ pint of ultramarine bine is ordered to be dissolved in 6 oz. of water, but for fear that the unfortunate amateur dyer should be puzzled how to dissolve -J pint of an insoluble pigment in so small a quantity of water, an explanation is added stating that ^ pint means ^ drachm. 274 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 9. 1876. Earwigs. Taking advantage of the fact that these insects feed in th© night, almost any substance in which they can conceal them- selves in the day may be employed to trap them. The usual prac- tice of placing a small inverted flower-pot with a bit of Moss in the bottom, on the top of the stake to which the plant is tied, is not a bad means of catching them, provided the pota are regularly eximined. Another trap commonly used is, small bundles of Bean-stalks tied up, cut 6 in. or 8 in. long, placed in each plant, and looked over daily by shaking the end of the bundle on a board or other substance, by which they can be destroyed. The most simple and effective traps are pieces of newspaper, crumpled roughly up in the hand, and stuck anywhere in the plants, unfolding them two or three times a week, when numbers of the insects will be found con- cealed in them. If there happens to have been bred a nest of young robins near the ground, the numbers of Earwigs they will eat, when they have taken fiiglit and got old enough to fiud their own food will astonish anyone taking the trouble to watch their movements. In the case of Dahlias (and there is perhaps no flower to which they do so much harm as to the Dahlia), the use of thin muslin bags, in which the buds are placed before they expand, drawn up close round the stalk of the flower so as to prevent the insects getting to them, is also a method followed by some growers. A piece of cotton-wool, twisted round the flower-stem just behind the bud, will prevent them getting to the flowers. By resorting to some or all of these methods, their numbers can be so far kept under as to prevent the disappointment of finding all the best buds rendered useless. As preventives, the circular earthen pans that are made for the purpose, in the fashion of a collar to the plant, are very effective. They should be put down firmly and kept full of water, and nothing in the shape of a bridge should ever be allowed to make a way for the Earwigs to cross the water. Mulching is said by some to induce Earwigs, but this hardly seems reasonable, for whatever keeps the ground cool and moist acts as a preventive. rood for Bees. When honey-yielding flowers are scarce, Bees require to be fed artiBcially, The following mixture is used by some of our most successful bee masters : — Add a gill and a half of water to half a gill of the best vinegar. Pour the mixture into a saucepan, add 2 lbs. of loaf sugar, and boil until it assumes a yellow colour; then pour into a well-greased dish, and cut up before it is cold into strips convenient for insertion into the hives. Should it candy on cooling, it is a proof that it has not been boiled enough, and should be returned to the saucepan without water, and boiled again. Fumigation, It is, under some circumstances, no easy matter to fumi pate a house or pit effectually. Take a flower-pot 18 in. in diameter, which has previously had a hole made in the side about 1 in. or so above the bottom. In the bottom of the pot put a few red-hot cinders, and to ensure the material employed for fumigating purposes igniting readily, add a handful of brown paper, quite dry, and torn into small pieces. When the brown paper commences to burn freely put a little dry Tobacco, or Tobacco paper, and then' add in a gradual manner the pro- Eerly-prepared material. The Tobacco paper, or rag, should e broken up into rather small pieces, and damped just sufii- ciently to prevent its burning too freely and bursting into a flame. As soon as the pot is filled and the material well ignited, it can be placed in the house, and with very little attention it will continue to give off dense clouds of smoke, nntil nearly the whole of the material is consumed. It is most essential the directions here given should be strictly followed ; as, for example, if the Tobacco paper be used too dry it will burst into a flame, and the plants will be seriously injured ; and if the damp material be put upon the cinders, it will not burn satisfactorily unless it is continually blown, and to remain in a house partly filled with smoke is not plea- sant. The fumigating pot must be watched from the outside, and the material occasionally stirred and bo lightly sprinkled with water, for the most disastrous results will follow it the material burns through and remains without attention for any length of time. The structures should, as a rule, be filled so that it is impossible to see more than 15 in. or so beyond the glass, and the fumigation should be repeated about two days afterwards. The evening is the best time for fumigating, and still weather should be taken advantage of. Eemove all plants in bloom previous to the fumigation, as the flowers soon fall after the exposure to the Tobacco smoke. The foliage must bo perfectly dry at the time, but a thorough syringing is desirable in the morning following. In smoking plants in small places, such as garden frames, there is always danger, as in such small space the smoke gets out before it has time to effectually kill the insects, necessitating a stronger application than the plants frequently can bear. Covering the lights with mats assists the retention of the smoke. Damp, mild evenings are the best for the operation. Mr. Baines says : — " In fumigating large or small houses it should always be borne in mind that the nearer the plants are to the roof the more certain is the destruction of the insects, the smoke being the most dense near the top of the house ; it will also be obvious that the closer the laps are in the glazing the more effectually will the smoke do its work ; where the laps are open it is good practice to cover them with mats or any available material that will assist in confining the smoke. In the case of plants that will bear syringing overhead with clean water, it is well to give them a good washing tne morning after ; any of the insects that are nearly but not quite killed will receive the finishincr sti'oke by this. Whatever material is used for fumigation. Tobacco, Tobacco-cloth, or paper, see that it is sufficiently moist to prevent its flaming, or it may do serious harm. The operator should, as a rule, stand outside till the house is sufficiently f ulf of smoke to see that the material does not burst into flame, but simply smoulders. A good plan is to sprinkle a little damp Sphagnum over the material as soon as ignited ; it cools the smoke and prevents flame. Care must also be taken, that whatever is used to ignite the fumigating material does not contain any dele- terious gases likely to be injurious to vegetable life. Coal in a half-burnt state is liable to do much harm in this way. Wood-embers, charcoal, or a'.little coke are the best. The material should always burn quickly, throwing up a dense volume of smoke, so as to fill the house in as little time as possible ; there is then less danger of drying the atmosphere of the house so as to be injurious to plant life. In the density of the smoke required to kill the insects, the operator must be guided by his knowledge of the strength of the material he is using, the size of the house, and the description of the plants it contains. The larger the house the less danger I have found of injuring its occupants by fumigation ; con- seqnently, such houses may be filled more densely with the smoke than plants in small houses will bear. The imple- ments used for fumigating are various, from a garden-pot with a hole in the side to those mechanical contrivances that are frequently making their appearance, but which are more for sale than use. The fumigators which I have had in use for fourteen years, and which are the best I have seen, are made of strong sheet-iron riveted. They are 10 in. in diameter by 9 in. deep, on three legs IJ in. high; the bottom and sides, half-way up, are perforated with holes one-eighth of an inch in diameter, 1 in. between the holes ; they have stout handles, very similar to that of an ordinary saucepan. This is much better than a handle across the top, for if the material does not bum freely, the ves-el can with greater convenience be swung repeatedly backward and forward, the draught quickly causing it to burn freely. I use one of these fumigators at each end of the house requiring smok- ing, by which means it is filled more rapidly." Peach trees or Nectarines which are attacked with green fly may be fumigated on the open walls by procuring two poles long enough to reach from the top of the wall to the bottom, placing them one at each side of the tree, allowing them to rest against the top of the wall, and setting them 2 ft. away at the bottom ; then get a carpet or blanket and lay over them, securing it well to the wall on each side, so that it will not allow the smoke to escape; the smoke may be blown underneath the bottom by means of a fumigator. The day after the tree has been fumigated it should be well syringed, Sept. 9, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 275 and the ground dug underneath. One of the cheapest and most effective appliances for fumigating is a wire basket, 1 ft. sq. aud 6 iu. deep, with a strong wire from each corner to suspend it by. Into the bottom of this throw a handful of hot cinders, aud over that another handful or two of charcoal. Then swing the basket about for a few minutes, and you will have a sood red fire. The best Tobacco for fumigating is undoubtedly common Shag, which properly used is cheaper than most of the Tobacco-papers now offered to the public. Iu using this Tobacco, procure a handful or two of wet litter from the stable, and, chopping it into pieces about 1 in. long, mix it with the Tobacco as intimately as possible. Then place it on the fire, give the basket a swing or two in the air, and a volume of smoke will be evolved that will fill the house in a few seconds, and not only that, but, if the mixture be in a proper state of humidity, it will continue to burn for some time, and thus keep the house filled — a very important point in destroying thrips. Suspend the basket in the house, and the only further precaution necessary will be to watch and damp it should the Tobacco burst into flame. By these simple means fumigating is reduced to a minimum of trouble, and to fill half-a-dozen houses with Tobacco fumes iu thirty or forty minutes is an easy task. Pungi. It is sometimes desirable to preserve specimens of Fungi for future or more convenient examination. For such purpose the following mixture has been recommended : — Sulphuric acid, 2 pints ; water, 8 pints ; mix and add creosote, 1 pint. Bottle the Fungi in this and cork tightly. It is said to pre- serve them perfectly without change of colour. Fungi may be preserved by drying, by bedding them in silver sand, gills upward, in tin boxes, and placing them in a slow oven for two or three hours. They may also be very well preserved in spirit if required, which preserves the colour; the preser- vation of this, is, however, generally quite unnecessary. C. W. QuiN. SILKWORMS. Having experimented in Colchester daring the past fifteen years on all the known varieties of Silkworms, with the view of their iDtroduo- tion into England and its colonies, and having ascertained, by actual experiment, that the most profitable race was that of the Bombyx Mori, and that the growth of the white Malberry tree and the oalti. vation of its Silkworms were easily accomplished in the greater part of the English isles, it has given me great pleasure to read in the "Times," of the 19fch nit., a letter from Mrs. Neile, \)pho has done so mach for Mulberry silk cnlture in Australia, advocating the cultivation in England of " grain," or the production of eggs of the best races of Malberry Silkworms for sale in Sonthem Europe. As I believe the main features of the case are unknown in England, and as the introduction of a new industry, so easy and simple to carry out, yet so lucrative in its results, will be hailed as a boon by all friends of the British farmer (who now finds himself unable to com. pete with the world in the growth of cereals, and liable to sudden and heavy losses from disease, &o., if he venture on breeding or rearing stock), I crave the indulgence of a few lines to explain the position in which this country stands with re. gard to sericulture, and to indicate what may reasonably be expected to be effected if the matter be gone into with pru. dence and perseverance. When I found cat some ten years ago that about £1,000,000 sterling was annually sent from Europe to Japan by those interested i n sericulture to purchase fresh, healthy " grain," their own stock having been either worked out or enfeebled by disease, it occurred to me that some of this money might be diverted to this country to enrich our own people. I found that several scientific Frenchmen of eminence — notably M. Cruerin.Menne. ville, Government Inspector in France — had been very favourably disposed towards "silk," or rather " grain," culture in England. I found that on the borders of Hampshire and Surrey Captain Mason had for years grown the white Mulberry tree, and produced silk which had been exhibited with first. class honours. My first trials at Colchester, being dependent on bought or borrowed Mulberry leaves (an uncertain supply), were not very successful. Having now got a good supply of white Mulberry trees in thriving condition (about 2 acres are planted out), my experiments daring the last two years have been very successful. I have had shoots on these trees which in one year grew from 5 ft. to 6 ft. long. I have educated and fed the worms, derived from one of the best sources in Europe, in a. room, almost without disease and almost without fire in June, July, and August, and have produced both years a small lot of fine grain, the parent cocoons of which have been pronounced excellent by good judges.' Moreover, the introduction of several new kinds of stoves, which produce a high temperature in the Silkworm room without giving ofi any deleterious gases, gives us these great advantages — that the education of the worms is most rapidly hastened, reducing the period of the caterpillar stage from six to three weeks ; they render the cultivation of the worm independent of any weather; and no carbonic acid or other noxious gas is given off to injure them. In the words of one of the inventors, Dr. Carret, " Healthy Silkworms can by means of these stoves be educated in any country where the Mulberry tree grows, independently of the weather." Therefore, the education of Mulberry Silkworms in England ought to be an assured fact. I wish, however, to correct a prevailing misconception. The ordinary Silkworm, such as obtained in Covent Garden, being an Indian (Dasce) race, producing the yellow or white-pointed cocoon, is for commercial purposes useless ; the cocoons do not produce BufBoient silk. The moat paying product in Silkworm culture is that of good grain or eggs, and evidence of the quality of the parent cocoon is always required before eggs can be sold in silk-growing countries. Hence the best races free from disease must be obtained, or those who wish to take up sericulture will be disappointed in the result. The old Brienza race, regenerated by Mens. Roland, of Switzerland, exhibited in the International Exhibition of 1873, is the best now extant in Europe, and the one which I have reared iu Eng. land with success. Lastly, any person going into the subject must be prepared during the months of June, July, and August, to devote much time regularly and constantly every day, as the Worms require close attention, or the result will be worthless. Now as to the commercial results : Japan, as a grain-producing country, ia now worked out. All her best grain has been exported to Europe, and last season the purchases of grain did not amount to one-eighth of former sales. The South of Europe can take from us instead of from Japan, a million oz. of eggs, if we can only produce them, at a price of from ISs. to 21s. per oz. of 30 grammes, and will be very glad to get eggs, if only healthy, from lis. If properly managed, 1 oz. of eggs will produce in grain 100 oz., or £1 will pro. duce £100, leaving a large margin for profit after all expenses have been paid, but generally half that result will afford a splendid profit. The education may be effected by women and children, if only the leaves be collected by a man. The Southern, Midland, and Eastern districts are admirably adapted to the growth of the White Mulberry tree. I am very glad, therefore, to see that others besides myself are interested in this important question, and I trust that the subject, once fairly ventilated, will not be allowed to rest till practical re. suits have been obtained. I shall be happy to show my cocoons to any one interested in this question. Alexandee Wallace, M.D. Trinity Rouse, Colchester. Garlic Butter. — I daresay somebody would like to know how to make this delicious relish. Take Garlic, peel it, and cut lengthwise into bits, put them in a mortar, and rub to a paste, always rubbing " the same way round." As you rub keep adding Olive oil till the •'ajioli" assumes the consistence and appearance of clear yellow honey. Squeeze a Lemon into it, and after a final rub put into a jam-pot. it will keep several days. Spread on bread, or stirred into Bean or Garbanzo porridge, or eaten as a relish with any food, it is delicious and very wholesome. In the wine shops in Spain they put sodium-chloride into it, much as British publicans salt beer. In Spain red peoper is also often added ; this makes it nicer to some, but not so palatable to others. Again, Apple is often rubbed up with it to make it bland for some palates. Garlic thus prepared is an especially wholesome dainty for those liable to the common diseases of the respiratory apparatus. If the Garlic be fresh it will take a very great deal of oil. Quite a small handful will be enough for a quart, gradually added. The oil becomes solid in the process, as solid as jelly, or honey at a low temperature. How this curious phenomenon results I do not know. This " ajioli," or Garlic butter, is capital spread thinly on bread, and is incomparably wholesomer than oow.butter. When quite newly made it will doubtless seem a little full-flavoured to some tastes, but becomes milder after it has been kept for twenty-fonr hours. All whom I have told about it like it very ranch — children notably. Sound and unadulterated butter costs now close upon 23. per lb. here in Suffolk. Garlic costs Is. per lb., and Lucca oil of good quality less than a shilling. Garlic butter, then, costs about halt the price of cow's batter. It is strictly human food, whereas dairy produce is merely a substitute for human food, like meat. Those who have gardens can grow Garlic at no cost at all, as it grows readily and yields abundantly, The oil must be good. — " Pietetic Reformer." 276 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 9, 1876. SOCIETIES AND EXHIBITIONS. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. Septembkr 6tu. Ajro.NG subjects eitibited on tbis occasion were excellent stands of Dah- lias, furnished by Mr. Turner, Mr. Keynes, and Mr, Kawlings; and Asters and Green Gage Tomatoes sent in competition for Messrs. Carter & Co.'s special prices were of really excellent quality. A specimen of the creamy-yellow Liliura neilgberrense camo from Mr. G. F. Wilson ; and Mr. Cannell sent the crimson-flowered Fuchsia boliTiana, which is similar to the old P. fulgens in habit, but has more slender and darker crimson flowers borne in terminal-drooping panicles. Another variety of Fuchsia, with sub-erect pale lilac flowers, named F. erecta, was also pretty, but scarcely distinct enough in colour to become a first-rato decorative plant ; it will be useful to the hybridists, however. Mr. Perkins, of Leamington, showed two handsome tuberous-rooted Begonias of robust habit, to which allusion is made elsewhere. Mr. G. F. Miles, Wycombe Abbey, contributed the liandsomest dish of Crawford's Early Peach we have yet seen — large highly-coloured fruits averaging 8 oz. each. These had been grown on a wall in the open air, and were deserving of all praise. First-class Certificates.— These were awarded to the following new plants and florists* flowers : — Dahlia, John DoT^nie (Keynes). — A well-shaped whitish flower, each pip being tipped with bright lilao-purplo. As a. show flower this is really an acquisition. Dahlia, J. 'W. Iiord (Keynes). — A large and shapely flower, of a bright orange-vermilion colour, well worth culture, but scarcely a first- class flower. Dahlia, Minnie Bond (Keynes). — A pale rosy-lilac tipped variety, having a soft bufl' centre ; a distinct and desirable kind, either for show or decorative purposes. Dahlia, Figaro (Turner). — A distinct variety of average size, the colour of which is a bright orange-vermilion. Dahlia, Earl of Beaconsfield (Rawling's). — A very handsome kind, having large, %\ ell-shaped flowers of a rich plum-coloured tint, with a full centre. It is a variety well worth cultivating as a show flower. liilium neilgherrense (G. F.Wilson). — A noble trumpet-flowered Lily ; indeed, one of the finest of the L. longiflorum type. The flowers, which are massive, measure nearly D in. in length, the reflexed segments being of great substance and wax-like, and of a soft creamy-yellow colour. It is agreeably perfumed, and is undoubtedly one of the finest of all autumnal-flowering Lilies. Zonal Pelargonium Madame Buehler (Cannell). — A dwarf- habited variety, bearing well-elevated trusses of purplIsh-crimsOQ semi- double flowers, well worth culture as a decorative pot plant. Begonia, Excellent (Perkins). — A stout-habited, tuberous-rooted variety, bearing axillary trusses of four or five bright crimson-scarlet flowers of good form, and about 2 in. in diameter. The plant is about 18 in. in height, and very floriferous. It is said to be a cross between li. Stella and B. Prestoniensis superba. Begonia, majestica (Perkins). — This is similar inhabit of growth to the last, but taller, the flowers being fully 3 in ia diameter, and of a bright rosy vermilion or coriso colour, produced in three-flowered, axillary fascicles. It is a distinct and valuable plant for decorative purposes, and is of the same parentage as the last. Quilled Aster, Unique (Benham).— A well-shapcd and fuUflower ■with a white centre, the outer rings of guard florets being of a pale rosy jilac or flesh colour. The blooms shown wcro slightly past their best, but ^t is evidently a desirable vaiiety. Miscellaneous Plants.— Mr. Noble, of Bagshot, again exhibited his new crimson-purple Pose Queen of Bedders, to which a first-class certificate was awarded a few weeks ago. It is a seedling from Sir Joseph PaitoD, a well-known Bourbon Rose, and it is dwarf and vigorous in habit, each branch bearing flowers and buds amounting to eight or ten in a cluster, and being dwarf and having a natural inclination to spread, no summer pruning or pinching is required. A group of variegated and other Fuchsias came from Mr. J. Kingsbury, nurseryman, of Southamp- ton, among which a variety named F. Kingsburyana was very dwarf and floriferous, having carmine sepals and a double white corolla. Mr. II. Cannell, of Swanley, showed a very interesting group of seedling and other Fuchsias, to which we have already alluded. The collections of Asters shown in competition for Messrs. J. Carter & Co.'s prizes -were very good, the varieties being — Princess Alexandra (carmine-white centre), Snowflako (white). Purple Prince (bluish-purple), and I'rinco of Novelties (white centre, splashed carmine edge). Mr. Benham had the best flowers, but was disqualified, and Mr. Gilkes, of Wickham, Newbury, was awarded the first prize; Mr. J. Morgan, gardener to Major Scott, Wray Park, lieigate, being second, with even, bright-coloured blooms. These varieties of Quilled Asters are dense and cushion-like, and are well worth culture tor decorative purposes. Mr. G. F. Wilson showed a new Ecbcveria from the Rocky Mountains, very similar to K. Murrayana, and also a plant of the dark velvety-leaved green-veined Lobelia aubunda, to which a second class certificate was awarded. A plant of Ncrino curvi- flora major in bloom was sent by Mr. B. Reeves, of North-end Lodge, Walham Green. It bears glistening orange-scarlet flowers, very much in the way of N. Fothergilli. A showy collection of dwarf French Marigolds came from Mr. R. Dean, the colours being distinct and the plants certainly very dwarf in habit. A seedling Gla- diolus, named Jcanie Tillery, was shown by Mr. W. Tillery, of Welbeck ; its flowers are of a bright carmine tint, splashed with crimson. From Mr. A. Dean came a Potato grafted on a Tomato, a union to which reference will be made hereafter. Colonel Trevor Clarke sent a very pretty white-flowered Begonia named Moonlight, which haa dark velvety leaves, something like those of B. Pearcei, and light panicles of white flowers. It is a profuse bloomer, and well deserves culture for flowering in autumn and winter ; another variety resembling B. Weltoni- ensis in habit, but taller and with salmon-tinted flowers, came from the same exhibitor, and was interesting as being a cross between B. Weltoniensis and B. Sutherlandi. Cut blooms of hybrid Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, Model and St. George, came from Mr. J. George, of Putney Heath, the colours being bright carmine. Among Dahlias from Mr. Charles Turner and Mr. J. Keynes, several of the new flowers were certificated. Among Mr. Turner's blooms we noted Christopher Ridley, reddish-scarlet, and fine in form, but rather too small ; Drake Lewis, already certificated, a fine, full, crimson-scarlet flower, well worth culture in select collections. A small stand of the older flowers deserves notice, the best blooms being John Standish, a dark crimson; Memorial, rosy-lilac ; and Sir G. Smith, purplish-crimson. Mr. Keynes had Ada Radford, a soft puce-tinted flower ; JohnWyatt, scarlet; John Frazer, deep purple ; and Monsieur Chauvier, a good puce variety, speckled and striped with crimson. Mr. G. Harris, of Orpington, Kent, sent two new seedling Dahlias of average merit, named Novelty (maroon striped) and Senator (bufl' tipped with red). An interesting stand of Pompon or small-flowered Dahlias, came from Mr. Charles Turner ; they consisted of kinds possessing distinct and beautiful colours, and being neat in habit and floriferous, they cannot fail to be useful in the shape of cut bloom. I'ruit and Vegetables. — A splendid dish of Early Crawford Peaches, to which allusion has already been made, came from Mr. Miles. The Early Crawford is a yellow-skinned variety, suffused with dark red on the sunny side ; the six fruit shown weighed 3 lb. Two or three Melons were shown, but they were of inferior quality. The competition for Messrs. Carter's special prizes, off'ered for their new Green Gage Tomato, was a spirited one, there bting sixteen exhibitors. Mr. Douglass, of Loxford, had the best fruit ; Mr. J. Morgan the next best ; and Mr. Brown, gardener to F. T. Barry, Esq., Beckenhara, was third. Nine varieties of dwarf French Beans, all in good condition, came from the Society's garden. NOTES AND QUESTIONS-VARIOUS. Variegated-leaved Kentucky Coffee Tree.— This new variegated form of Gymnocladus canadoiiBis I saw growing the other day in the old nurserieB. Cheshunt. Ic ia of rather slender habit, has long leaven beautifnlly variogaled, and is likely to become useful as an ornamoutal ahrubbery plant, or for combi- nation with sub-tropical plants.— S. White Bedding Dahlia, Margnerite Bmant— This fin© variety is readily distinguished from others of the white bedding group by its compacLly dwarf, robust growth, not moreihan 2 ft. in height, and in outline of growth remark- able for its dense, full habit and free ample foliage, above which its profusion of pure white bloom rises clearly and effectively. It forms a beautiful docorativo group on lawns, or a very eflective second row or lino in a ribbon border.— W, Brumhead Lettuce-— This stands the dry weather best horo without run- ning to seed. It remains good ten days or a fortnight aft.; r the Par ia Cos, Victoria, and All the Year Round have run to seed.- W. W., JEagUhurMt, Sutton's Dnbe of ConnaugUt Cucumber.— This is a fine variety, especi- ally for purposes of exhibition, as it swells cfT evenly and it.s average length is 21 in. Like alt long Uucumbersit should be grown on a trellis, hut if structures suitable for that purpose be not available, special means should bo provided for keeping the Cucumbers straight.- J. G., ILenham. "Winter Spinach.— AH kinds of green crops having snCrerod more or less from drought, an extra breadth cf this useful winter vegetable should at once 1)6 sown. After i he ground has been thoroughly wcU prepared for it by de^p digging, draw shallow dnlla and soak well with water both before and after sowing the seed, cover with tlio moist soil first, and then put dry soil on tho fcurfuce to prcycut evaporation.— J. G. Fenn's Woodstock Kidney Potato.— I saw iho stock of this fine, new PotRto lifted recently at Woodstock, and I must say that aQnor and more abandon*; cr- p I liavo never seen. This is. cno of ft batch of soedl iiljb of which Uawe's Matchless is one of tho parents. Tho tubers are of fine form and bandsomo, resembling those of the CluVo in ehape and produced in great profusion. Tho liaulm is robust, and reciuires open culture and plenty of room. In quality the tuber is superior to that of the Lapstone, and is a capital kiopor. Mr. Fonn regards this variety as one of the best he has yet raised. — A. Large Yield of Potatoes.— The following is tho produce of a few kinds of Potatoes grown in tho purdcns at Aruudel. They wore planted on the 6th of May last, and lifted on tho 28Lh of August :—Compton'8 Surprise produced 4 bushels from 7 bm of seed; Hrownlow'a Beauty, 7 bushels from i peck of Bccd ; Kurcbft, ."J bushels from 2 lbs. of eeed; Snowflako, 2\ bushels from 2 lbs. of Boed ; American Late Uoso, 4 bushels from \ peck of seed; American llrcad Kruit, 6 bushels from \ peck of seed ; Now Kxtra Kurly Vermont, 34 hu-hL'l» from i peck of seed ; and Breseo's Prolific, 3J bushels from 7 lbs. of seed —J. F. THE GARDEN. 277 SATTTRDAT, SEPTEMBER 16, 1878. *' This is an art Which does mend Nature : change it rather : but Thb Aei itself is NilDEB." HINTS FOR AMATEUR LANDSCAPE GARDENERS. By JAMES M'NAB, Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh. TuE season has arrived when trees and shrubs of an overgrown character must be cut and kept within proper bounds, both on account of their own appearance and that of the landscape of which they form a part. " To see finely-shaped, good specimen trees ruined from close proximity to inferior ones or trees of a coarse or rapid growth, is, to say the least of it, annoying. Perhaps the most noted instances of this occur in the case of large Poplars and Elms, many of which exist in our town squares, villa gardens, and in some extensive demesnes. By coarse trees I mean such as were originally planted for nurse purposes, and which no doubt were intended to be removed as soon as they began to interfere with trees planted at the same time for permanent embellishment. The landscape gardener or planter originally entrusted with the formation of the work may, however, possibly have been to blame in not giving implicit instructions in writing of what was to be done in regard to thinning and pruning, also in not stating the proper time at which the removal of certain trees was to take place, the kinds to be permanently retained, and the distances at which they were to stand. In some cases I find, however, that written specifications for carrying out planting operations are but little studied after such works have been finished, and that according to contract. Some years since, while looking over a plantation several acres in extent, planted about thirty years ago, and belonging to a large educational seminary, I was surprised to find the trees all very thick, although their appear, ance showed that they had been planted originally in a systematic manner, and therefore made inquiry, in order to ascertain if the contractor had left any written specification regarding their future management. After some trouble the specification was found, when it was evident that it had not been consulted since the period of planting. In consequence of this neglect the trees had got into a mass of confusion. Those planted as avenue trees, to stand at stated distances apart, were crowded up with Poplars and other nurse trees originally intended to be removed. As the trees in the avenue lines had in a great measure been injured by proximity to the nurses and other ornamental hard-wooded trees, the regularity originally intended to be maintained could not be preserved. Extensive plantations are generally well managed by practical men ; but places of one, two, or more acres are for the naost part left to the care of the proprietor, whose object is to get up shelter at any cost, and often without reference to ultimate embellishment. In this way great irregularities occur which it is often difiicult to put right. Poplars which are generally the cause of the mischief, should be kept by themselves, either for shelter or for background seclusion, and if required they can be pruned with impunity even at any stage of their growth, so as to enable them to be kept in something like their proper shape. Some specimens of them with which I am acquainted, thirty-six years of age or so, with stems from 4 ft. to 6 ft. in circumference, and about 40 ft. in height, were pollarded about 18 ft. above the ground. The following year numerous shoots were produced all over their stems. The year after that all the lower new-made branches were removed, and the top ones shortened to within 10 in. or 12 in. of the stem. These branches are subjected to a cutting every two or three years. By this treatment the tops become somewhat spherical, and continue to be so as long as branch shortening is adopted. Large unpruned Poplars in the neighbourhood of a mansion are often positively dangerous, their large limbs being frequently blown down ; and if it should be found necessary to remove them, great difficulty often attends the operation. The branches in such cases must be lowered down piecemeal by ropes, in order to prevent them injuring buildings, fences, or neigh- bouring ornamental trees, Lombardy Poplars are often employed extensively in villa gardens, owing to their occupying but little space in comparison with other trees, but when they become 8 ft. or 10 ft. high, they are apt to become bare at the bottom and leafy towards the top. Where this is the case, it becomes necessary to reduce the height of each intermediate tree to about 6 ft., giving each cut specimen a good surface- dressing at the same time. The pollarded trees soon become furnished below, while the unpollarded ones fill up above. After the specimens that were cut down begin to grow freely, those uncut in a few years may be treated in the same way. By this successional way of cutting the tops of Lombardy Poplars they assume an irregular outline in the landscape, which is infinitely better than all being of one uni- form height. Large branches of Poplars, say from 10 ft. to 12 ft. in length, and 18 in. or so in circumference, may be inserted in the ground as cuttings, and it matters but little, which end is inserted. I have seen some put in upside down, and grow as well as if they had been inserted in the right way. Numerous shoots will always be produced from the stems; the under ones should be removed and the upper ones shortened. If this shortening be carried on every three or four years, they will ultimately make good trees for shelter, and will often be more pleasing in appearance than uupruned trees, the branches of which extend in all directions. In a paper on the pollarding of large trees, inserted in The Garden (see Vol. VII , p. Sll), it is stated that a large number of Hardwooded trees which overhung a wall along a public road in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, were some years ago condemned, in consequence of some of the large branches being blown off, obstructing the traffic, and being dangerous to the public whilst walking under them. The pol- larding and cutting in of the branches were effected during the winter of 1871. The trees consisted of Poplar, Elm, Ash, Lime, Oak, Horse Chestnut, and Beech, with stems varying from 5ft. to 8 ft. in circumference; all were pollarded from 18 ft. to 20 ft. above the ground, and the branches, both large and small^were shortened in at the same time, so as to give them a proper outline. During the following summer and autumn, young shoots were freely produced over the cut branches, even on those of the Beech, which I never expected would submit to such an operation. All these trees are now finely shaped and healthy, and, with the exception of the Beech, all have made rapid progress, and look as if they would not interfere with each other or with the public road for years to come. This species of pollarding is often very desirable in cases where long rows of comparatively young trees, of one or moi-e kinds exist, either along a wall surroimding a park or roadside, or even round a villa garden or public square. In such cases, if each alternate tree be pollarded and branch-pruned, no matter what the species may be, such cut specimens will very soon make trees with good outlines. In a few years the alternate specimens can be similarly treated. By this arrangement we get rid of high hedge-row trees, which generally spread and overhang walls, such as Elm and Lime. Many are apt to plant thickly in the neighbourhood of their houses, in order to produce early shelter. This is often a mis- take, as I have frequently observed that trees, both for avenue and plantation purposes, when not too thickly planted, but judiciously topped and branch-pruned when young, so as to secure a proper shape, stand the wind better than trees which have been allowed to go on unpruned till they have acquired a large size. This particularly applies to the Norway Maple, Plane, and Elm. If ornamental trees are to stand amongst Evergreen shrubs, their stems ought to be pruned ; but if to stand singly on Grass, the natural outline of such trees should be carefully preserved. When the site of a new mansion is first determined on, the distant landscape effects to be obtained from it are often a source of much discussion. When finally settled the building goes on, and the ground laid out with trees, at the time in all probability small. The plant- ing and choice of the trees are generally conducted without much reference to vistas or views to be afterwards obtained; on the contrary, they are left to be thinned out as may be needed. Time goes on, and often with a change of proprietor ; the trees gradually enlarge, and for many years their progress is a matter of more consideration than the inter- ception of the views from the mansion.wbich itself getshid under 278 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 16, 1876. a dense mass of foliage. If openings were originally left and filled lip, such openings can be restored by pruning and thinning the branches, and these can be annually gone over and dressed ; but where a dense, close mass has been allowed to grow up, the removal of certain trees will be absolutely necessary. In some cases stem-pruning may be safely per- formed so as to aMow vistas to be opened up below the upper spreading branches. It may happen, too, that a distant tree may interfere with the carrying out of such views, and in such a case it may be removed ; but should the removal happen to introduce any unpleasant object, the top only need be taken off and the remaining portion rounded over so as to give a clothed appearance to the landscape. Forming vistas or views is per- haps one of the most interesting works with which a land- scape gardener has to deal, and it is amusing to observe the amount of zeal shown by some proprietors when one or two vistas have been successfully opened up. When once infected with picture-making of this kind they become constantly on the outlook for subjects on which to experiment, and when this is the case neither shrub, tree, nor branch, will stand in their way, notwithstanding the doubtful feeling which was exhibited when the first branch came down. After the debris attending the removals, and the requisite dressing given to the trees and shrubs have received attention, such places become the chief resort of visitors. When mansions stand within wooded grounds, a mile or so from the sea, the judicious formation of Tistas and views is absolutely necessary. When arranging vistas, which are to be opened through plantations, it is desir- able to have such openings made along a carriage drive or road, but, instead of a narrow cut, they should be made wide towards the drive or walk. Should a good tree stand in the foreground, branch-pruning the stem may be resorted to, BO as to have the views below the upper branches ; a few ever- green shrubs may be planted on each side, and the surface of the ground between the drive and the fence should be Grass. All such finishings, together with numerous others, will readily suggest themselves to the operator while such works are in progress. EOMNEYA COULTERI. Tuis handsome Callfornian Poppywort has recently flowered with me for the first time. The plants were raised from seed during the summer of last year, and were kept in a cool house during the winter, though they are capable of resisting a few degrees of frost in dry soil. Under glass the plant is almost, it not quite, an evergreen, and when turned out into the open border in May, the stems soon reached a height of 2^ ft. to 3 ft., producing a single flower at the summit of each, which developed somewhat slowly, and expanded about the middle of July. The petals, six in number, arranged in two series, are of the purest white, broadly fan-like in form and slightly fragrant, the flowers being quite 4 in. across, and continuing expanded throughout the day. Notwithstanding the heat of the weather, they remained open from three to four days, proving that they are somewhat less fugacious than many plants of the same Order. The earliest stems have been fol- lowed by a succession of strong shoots from the necks of the plant, and these promise to yield several flowers ; it is, how- ever, unfortunate that the numerous lateral shoots with which the stems are furnished do not at present exhibit any disposition to develop flower - buds, but as the roots become older they will doubtless furnish their contingent. It evidently prefers a good deep garden soil, with liberal supplies of moisture in dry weather, and when cultivated under such conditions is highly ornamental, even when not in flower, owing to its handsome, pinnatifid, glaucous foliage ; the entire plant is, indeed, as glaucous as the Kschscholtzia. Among my seedlings I observed some with slender, weak stems, and foliage more deeply cut, with narrower lobes. It is noteworthy that all the plants of this habit have obstinately declined to flower, but they may possibly do so in future seasons. The Roraneya is certainly a true perennial, and may doubtless be easily preserved from year to year in a cold frame. I do not think it can bo successfully treated as a perfectly hardy perennial. W. Tiio.MrsoN. Ipswich. FLORAL DECORATIONS FOR SEPTEMBER. Amongst September flowers (after the profusion which we had in July and Aagast) there are noue which give more pleasure than the antnmnal blooms of Roses if well arranged. To this end plenty of Rose foliage is indispensable, bat both the bads and the leaves reqnire the aid of wires if they are intended to last without drooping. There is, however, a still worse habit that many of them possess than drooping, and that is, dropping their petals ; some kinds do this more than others. Upon this subject Mr. Baines, in describing Mr. George Paol's Rosaries at Chesbnnt in the pages of a contemporary, has published some very pertinent remarks, which I cannot do bett«r than transcribe:— "It ianot a little tantalizing, afterarranging a vase of Roses, 10 find most of them fallen to pieces the day after. The names of a few that will stand may be of nse. Some of the most persistent when cat, as well as the moat beautiful, are the Bourbon de la Malmaison, Murechal Niel, and Celine Forestier, Noisettes, and snch light-coloured Teas as Gloire de Dijnn, Madame Faloot, Madame ViUermnz, Catherine Mermet, Niphetos, Divouiensis, and alba rosea; of red Teas, Souvenir de David will stand well. Amongst hybrid per. petnals, Camilla Bernardin, Prince Camille de Rohan, GeneralJacque. minot, Duke of Edinburgh, Fisher Holmes, Jules Margoltin, Victor Verdier, Uenri Ledechaux, Annie Lixton, and Princess Mary of Cam. bridge; with the old Cabbage tor scent.and to many the most exquisitely perfumed Rose in existence, the small blcsh Scunwell Perpetual, a variety too old to find a place in most catalogues. It is the first to flower in spring, and almost the la^t in autumn. Any one who grows these, on giving a bunch to a friend, need not fear being after. wards told that they dropped their petals next day." To these observations I would add that the persistence of Roses jo water is materially increased by cutting tciem very early in the morning, and by choosing buds not more than half expanded. The following flowers will be found available daring the present month :^ Blue — Gentiauella, Larkspur, and Myosotia. Purple— Aster, Ueliotrope, Hollyhock, Larkspur, Phlox, Syrian Hibiscus, and Verbena. Mauve — Aster, Dahlia, and Heath. Pink — Antirrhinum, Aster, Begonia, Bouvardia, Carnation, Dahlia, fancy and Zonal Pelargoniums, Fuchsia, Gladiolus, Hollyhock, Lilies, Oleander, Phlox, Rose, Syrian Hibiscus, Verbena, and Zinnia. Crimson — Antirrhinum, Aster, Bsuvardia, Dahlia, Everlasting Pea' Hollyhock, Phlox, Rose, Verbena, and Zinnia. Maroon — Dahlia, Hollyhock, and Zinnia. Scarlet — Begonia, Bouvardia, Carnation, Dahlia, Gladiolus, Lilies, Poppy, Salvia, Tropaaolum, Verbena, Zinnia, and Zonal Pelargo. niums. Orange — Calceolaria, Carnation, Dahlia, Hollyhock, Lilies, Marigold, Rose, and Zinnia. Tellow — Antirrhinum, Calceolaria, Dahlia, Eschsoholtzia, Hollyhock, Marigold, Rose, and Zinnia. White — Antirrhinum, Aponogeton, Aster, Begonia, Bouvardia, Car. nation, Dahlia, Eaobaris, Fancy Pelargoniums, Gardenia, Heath, Hollyhock, Lilies, Myrtle, Phlox, Syrian Hibiscus, Spiraea, Stephanotis, Tuberose, and Water Lily. W. T. T. New liily at Heatherbank. — The apparently new Lily men. tioued, in describing Mr. Wilson's collection in Thk Garden of last week (see p. 254), as being then in bud has since that time expanded its flowers, which are remarkably handsome and peculiar in form, and of extremely vivid colouring, blending from bright orange-yellow to bright scarlet, freckled with a deeper tone of the same colour. The petals are of more than nsual length, and as they only turn back till they assume a nearly erect position, they present a somewhat flame, like and unusual appearance. The flower approaches more nearly to that of L. euperbum than any other well. known species, but has nut the same strongly-marked Martagon character in the complete curling back of the petals and sepals. The foliage, too, is altogether different, appearing in alternate broad leaves of full dark greeu somewhat Pear-abaped, while that of L. superbum occurs in regular whorls, after the manner of a largo section of the Martagon fuuiily. The bulb was purchased by Mr. Wilson under the name uf L. Caio. linianum, a name given in the " Botanical Magazine" as one of the synonyms of L. euperbum, but the Lily which has just bloomed is evidently not the one there alluded to, as the spotting of the flowers is of an entirely different character, while the foliage in no way resembles that of any of the varieties of L. euperbum. It may also be observed that while L. superbum is an early-flowering species, the new Heatherbank Lily will evidently prove to be an autumn-flower. ing kind.— H. N. H. Sept. 16, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 279 THE FRUIT GARDEN. SELECTING APPLES AND PEARS. Before the planting season has arrived, it will be well for those who intend carrying out this operation to take note of such varieties as have been proved to succeed in their particular locality — for no greater mistake can be committed as regards fruit culture than planting too many varieties. It is an error into which even experienced cultivators are often led, not only with Apples and Pears, but also with all kinds of fruits ; for instance, many of the newer kinds of Grapes, that promised to supersede all other kinds, are found to be so variable in character as to be now only grown in some places as novelties, and exactly the same results occur in the case of Pears. Eeally first-class Pears, such as Knight's Monarch, succeed admirably in some localities, and in others are scarcely ever eatable, and many other kinds are equally variable — not only as regards quality, but as respects certainty of cropping, for even in favourable seasons there are plenty of unfruitful trees to be found, from no other cause than that they are nnsuited to the locality or position in which they are planted. Amongst numerous varieties planted here some ten or twelve years ago as espaliers quite one-third have been or will have to be re.grafted or wholly removed before the collection can. be considered satisfactory. Although all were planted and treated exactly alike, some refused to make wood ; others grew satis- factorily, but produced worthless fruit, although the same kinds grown against walls are annually good. Few things are more vexatious than finding that trees after reaching a remunerative age must be re-grafted or replaced before any serviceable fruit can be got from them, and as long as the rage for novelties and collections continues, this is likely constantly to occnr. Indeed, I feel certain that a succession of fruit is more likely to be obtained from a dozen varieties of really good free-bearing kinds than from double the number selected without skill. There are usually too many mid-season varieties planted that all ripen at one time, whereas it is good early and really late- keepers that are most profitable. Little fear need be enter- tained about the mid-season supply if the early and generally surest-bearing kinds be made the most of by gathering portions of the crop in succpssion. The scarcity of fruit this year is by some attributed to the trees being heavily laden last year. Doubtless, this is the case with trees left to take care of themselves, and allowed to carry all fruit that sets. But I, by no means, think that bearing a fair crop of fruit one year is at all likely to prevent a similar crop being obtained the following year ; for fruit trees of all kinds grown wholly under glass are expected to fruit with certainty annually — and they generally do. But even out-of-doors our best crops of Apples and Pears are on trees that had the best crops not only last season, but even in former years; in fact, it is not uncommon to find trees of such sorts as Keswick Codlin, Cellini, Hawthomden, &c., that are looked to for crops as a rule, failures being the exception, and what holds good in regard to a certain class of trees ought to hold good in all under proper treatment. The partial or entire loss of a crop from some particular tree is, however, not so noticeable in large as in small collections ; for in the former, the abundance on suitable kinds goes far to make up for blanks occasioned by uncertain croppers. Many of the latter bear fruit that is excellent in quality, and therefore might be grown where space is no object. Gansel's Bergamotte, for example, is a really splendid Pear, but it is wholly unsuitable for those who have but limited wall space, inasmuch as this variety does not produce a good crop once in seven years; in fact, like the Gloria Mundi Apple, it does not take long to count the number of fruit even on a good-sized tree in average fruit seasons. Many of the numerous sorts of fruit which one sees in trade lists are really good in some situations ; but soil and other matters vary so much even in the same locality that selection, guided by experience, becomes necessary. I have found the following Apples and Pears generally succeed under most circumstances ; and although there may be better kinds for particular places, I should not hesitate to plant any or all of them where satisfactory results are desired. Among kitchen Apples, I would recommend Keswick Codlin, Hawthomden (new and old), Cellini, Lord Suffield, Dutch Mignonne, Tower of Glamis, Wellington, Northern Greening, Sturmer Pippin, Rymer, and Manks Codlin. Among dessert Apples, Cox's Orange Pippin, King of Pippins, Ribston Pippin, Baxter's Pearmain, Pitmaston Nonpareil, Early Harvest, Blenheim Orange, Golden Pippin, Court of "Wick, Court Pendu Plat, Old Nonpareil, and Golden Harvey are the best. Of Pears, I would take Jargonelle, Williams' Bon Chretien, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Beurre d'Amanlis, Beurre Diel, Brown Beurre, Seckle, Forelle, Cbaumontel, Glou Morceau, Marie Louise, Ne Plus Meuris, Beurre Ranee, Josephine de Malines, and Winter Nelis ; kitchen kinds may consist of Verulam and Uvedale's St. Germain. James Groom. Henham, Sarly Plums. — All of ns, I am enre, must feel indebted to Mr. Ewing for his remarks (see p. 215) on the Plum crop, but eepecially for hie references to the stocks on which the trees are grafted ; conld we but get cultivators to give ua their observations and experience ss to the effect of the stock on varieties generally, it would be most interesting as well aa instrnctive. Mr. Ewiug says that the Bine Perdrigon is the earliest ; my first gathering of that variety was on the 3l6t of August. I have no date as to my first gathering of Rivera' Prolific, but it is quite four or five weeks earlier. I do not preserve dates as regards the times of gathering, but I certainly have not had it BO late before. It is generally from ten to eighteen days, or as near that as I can remember, earlier than the Perdrigon. I do not know Hubbard's Early Prolific, although I cultivate some 150 varieties of Plums. My first is St. Etienne ; Rivers' Early Favourite (and a good Plum it is) is my eecond ; Rivera' Early Prolific third ; then aa to a fourth, I cannot speak with certainty, for Plums vary so much, even more than a week. For example, this year I may have July Green Gage ripe a week before Brandy Gage, but next season Brandy Gage may be even a fortnight in advance of July Gage ; as a rule, however. Brandy Gage is first, and then there is Lawrence's Gage, which varies just as much ; Abricotee de Brannau varies, but not BO much, and also Early Green Gage ; but perhaps, after all, I ought to have placed Early Mirabelle fourth (and a delicious little Plum it is). Early Orleans, Chapman's Prince of Wales, Mens. Grosse Surpasse, and De Montefort are all early Plnma. I omitted Imperiale de Milan (this is almost as early with me aa Rivers' Pro. lific) ; I ought. to mention Prince Engelbert (this is a fine Plum, and rather early with me). What I desire to convey is that one cannot speak with certainty as to the exact period at which very many Plums will ripen. One year one variety will come in first, and the following year another kind, but it mnst be remembered that my trees are standard bushes or pyramids. — George Lee, Clevedon. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE FRUIT GARDEN, Top-dressing Orchards.— The most perfect treatment for an orchard to Rive TiROur of Rrowth is, according to the " Country Gentlemaii," to cultivat the surface in connection witn a yearly moderate application of manure. Heavy top-dressiofr, even without cultivation, will produce riccifled reealts. Wevisited an orchard which had for years received an abundant top-dressing. All the manure that could be spared went to the orchard. The mellow surface conld be kicked up with the boot among the grass. The trees bore heavy and ex- cellent crops, Antumn and Winter Grapes.— I wish to have a good supply of Grapes from AuKtist to Jannarv, and 1 am about to erect a vinery about 60 ft. by 16 ft. What kinds would yon recommend me to plant, and should I divide the ranee into two or three compartments P-Moscat.— [Divide the range into two com- parlments, and plant one with Black Hamburgh and Duke of Bnccleuch, and the other with Muscat of Alexandria, Groa Colman, and Gros Gnillaume. The three last-named Grapes require more heat than the two former ones, and provision should be made f Jr this. — D. T.l James Veitch Strawberry .—While gathering this Strawberry this season curiosity prompted me to weigh 1 lb. of the heaviest fruit, and I found that it took little more than twelve to make the poond. This, I ('■ J. S., in the ••Gardener") think, is without doubt the largest Strawberry grown, and la one which is deserving of a placo in every collection. It is a well-known fact that some varieties do well in some localities that will not succeed in others s bat where President does well, James Veitch may be expected to succeed well also. It resembles President a good deal in its habit of growth, and is very prolific, having handsome, highly-flavoured fruit, which come into use between President and British Queen. Quince Stocks.— Lookmg over some old publications, I find that the variety of Quince for stocks upon which to work the Pear was at one time quite a mooted question. The Pear (or Paris) Quince was discarded by all, yet for a time the Portugal took the lead, until it was found that the Angers was nearly, if not quite, as free a grower, and that it could be propagated much the most rapidly of any variety, 30O years since, as I read, most of the stocks on which the Pear was worked were grown from seeds, and the Portugal was mainly the variety from which seed waa taken; but rs it was found that growing from cuttings gave more regular and even growth, and as the Angers was most sure to form roots, that variety (says the "Country Gentleman") did, and docs now, take precedence. 280 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 16, 1876. NOTES OP THE WEEK. The Vinetakd at Castle Coch. — This experiment, originated by the Marquis of Bute at Castle Coch, and carried out so well by Mr. Pettigrew, is thriving apace thia year, the Vines being Tery healthy aud the wood well ripened. Being only eighteen months planted it is of course too soon to expect any noticeable result in fruit. In all, 2500 Vines have been planted, and preparations are being made to extend the Vineyard. It is planted and managed after the fashion in the best-cultured Vineyards in northern France. HEAvr Bunches of Grapes. — At the International Horticnltural Show which took place the other day at Dundee, there were no 25-lb. or 26.1b. bunches of Grapes, as there were last year at Edinburgh ; Mr. Curror, howeyer, bad a bunch of Trebbiano which weighed 16 lb. 2 oz., and Mr. Dickson a bunch of White Nice, 14 lb. 2 oz. Mr. Dickson also showed the heaviest bunch of Black Grapes (Bar. barcsea), which weighed 10 lb. 2 oz. ; Mr. Hammond, Carlisle, also had a bunch weighing 10 lb. Golden-peuited Blue Passion-flower. — In favourable seasons this fruits profusely near London, and many of the pretty villa resi. dences in its south and south-western suburbs are now draped with wreaths of glossy leaves, and the blue-rayed flowers of this plant, on which soft golden egg-shaped fruits shine very conspicuously. Two houses in the Brandeubnrgh Road, Turnham Green, are covered with this plant ; and one of these is just now a sight well worth seeing, being ornamented with hundreds of fruit of this useful Passion, flower. Lagerstecemia. indica. — A speoimen of this charming Chinese shrub might recently have been seen in beautiful condition in an intermediate house at Coombe Abbey, where it forms a bush nearly 5 ft. in height, each shoot being terminated by a cluster of rosy-lilac, elegantly-crisped flowers. Some twenty or thirty of the strongest growths on this plant bore panicles of inflorescence from 15 in. to 18 in. in length, the effect of which was most striking. The specimen in question is planted in a brick pit, and its young growths when ripe are cut back every season like those of a Gooseberry bush. Although long introduced to our gardens, this fine-flowering shrub is rarely seen in such perfection as that just recorded. Pomegranates in Batieesea Park. — These have been very effective this season, plunged here and there on the turf, where their bright coral-red buds, and glossy olive-green leaves are seen to excellent advantage in contrast with their surroundings. Though an Oriental plant the Pomegranate is hardy in our Southern counties, and not nnfreqnently, as at Kew, produces fruit on sunny walls. The chief beauty of the plant, however, consists in its coral buds and flowers, which render it well worth a place on sunny terraces or other walls in flower gardens. It grows and flowers well on the palace walls at Fulham ; and a vigorous specimen of it 8 ft. or 10 ft. in height, on the boundary wall in the Chelsea Botanic Garden proves that it is not unsuitable for suburban gardens. Latb Dessert Cherries. — In most gardens the dessert Cherry season ends at the beginning of August, bat there is no reason why ic should, inasmuch as Cherries may be had in perfection until October or even November. At Frogmore Late Dukes and Napoleon Bigarreau are now ripe or ripening, and at Chiswick several of the best late varieties are at present in excellent condition. During the past week we have seen fine fruit of the following varieties at Frog, more, Chiswick, and elsewhere, viz., Napoleon, Late Duke, Bigarreau de Heklesheim, Biittner's October, Coe's Late, Carnation, Downer's Late Red, Florence, Belle de Septembre, and Late Bigarreau. Careful shading with tiffany or canvas blinds is necessary to keep off wapps and birds. North walls in our gardens could not well be made better use of than by being covered with the finest varieties of late dessert Cherries. Camellia Garden in Dorsetshire. — " Silmoniceps " says : Your rote (p. 263) concerning the large Camellia at Killarney induces me to notice a Camellia garden, which it was my good fortune to visit last spring, viz., that at South Ljtohett llouse, near Poole. The bushes hero grow in tho greatest luxuriance, and flower profusely. At the time of my visit (the bepinning of May) the bloom was past its height, buc there remained enough to form a very striking and un. usual garden scene in this country. I did not measure the height of the bushes, but they appeared to equal that at Killarney in size. A hedge formed entirely of Camellias atone end of the grounds seemed to stand about 8 ft. high. Besides the Camellia shrubberies, there are single standard bushes, and bushes trained against walls with and without glass coping, a!so a largo Camellia-house. In short. Camellias occupy in this garden the same honourable position that the Rose does in other places. One is only tempted to regret, in the midst of so much beauty, the absence of perfume. HAEDY FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. Of autumn-flowering Campanulas, suet as C. carpatica bicolor, with delicate white lilac-shaded flowers, and the dark purple C. celtidifolia, we have noticed several plants on rockwork in good condition. Of all the species, however, the most stately is the azure-blue C. pyramidalis and its white and lilac varie- ties, which are just now flowering freely in the open borders ; grown in a pot, and treated as a sub-aquatic, in a sheltered position in the open air, C. pyramidalis is one of the most effective of all decorative plants, and it is one which also makes a suitable ornament for a cottage window, in some of which in country districts we have seen it grown with great success. Erect-growing Veronicas of the V. spicata section are now very handsome, one of the best being V. spicata pumila corymbosa, a variety which bears dense branching panicles of bright blue flowers. The common white variety is also very effective, forming as it does vigorous masses fully 2 ft. in height. Colchicums are just now everywhere very lovely, their bright rosy -lilac or purple-tinted flowers peeping up here and there among stones and bare earth. We should like to [see these pretty autumn flowers planted in greater abundance in our gardens than they now are, for if these and autumn Crocuses were planted on carpets of Sedum glaucum and S. lydium, or any other dwarf and fresh-looking plants, they would bestow an amount of gaiety on our autumn gardens which they do not at present possess. One of the prettiest of all the Labiates now in bloom is the spicate Dracocephalum virginianum, which is now profusely covered with rosy-lilac flowers and rosy-purple buds. This plant will remain in bloom for another month or even longer, and is so handsome, that it should find a place wherever there is an inch or two of deep moist soil to spare. Mcehringia muscosa, one of the freshest of all carpeting plants, is now very pretty on a rockery at St. John's Wood, each patch being studded with pearly-white flowers. Among the Composites we find some of the most stately and handsome of all autumnal- blooming herbaceous plants. Helenium autumnale is very pretty in Messrs. Henderson's Nursery, forming tufts 2 ft. in height, each shoot being terminated by a cluster of golden- rayed flowers and yellowish-green buds. Coreopsis grandi- flora is yet in great beauty, and its flowers, which are elegant in form, and borne singly on long, slender stalks, are admirably adapted for cutting. One of the most noble of all the Com- posites now in bloom, however, is Pascalia glauca, a plant which bears bright golden flowers 4 in. in diameter set off by a dark purplish-brown or nearly black disc. This plant, which grows 5 ft. in height aud as much in diameter, is so showy that no collection can be considered complete with- out it. The large double Sunflower, exhibited last year for the first time, and now flowering in Mr. Barr's grounds, is much more showy than the old brown-disked, single type. Each flower is as large as a dessert plate, and forms a semi-hemi- spherical dense cushion of golden, tubular florets. Convol- vulus Scammonia is now in flower in Mr. Ware's grounds, and at Mr. Parker's the rosy-lilac Scdum spectabile is used with excellent effect both in clumps and as an edging plant. It succeeds perfectly in any well-drained, rich soil, and is one of the most precious of all autumn-flowering succulents ; it is one, too, which might be used for massing in flower garden arrangements with the best results, as it is effective from the time itappearsabovcground in spring until it flowers in autumn. The prettiest of all aquatics now in flower are Calla palustris, the white Water Lily, and the ever-blooming Aponogeton dista- chyon. Of other kinds of plants the following are now in flower, viz., Epilobiura sericeum. Geranium Wallichianum, Statice umbrosa alba, Asclepias tuberosa, Gypsophila glauca, G. paniculata, and several others, Chelone speciosa aud C. obliqua alba, Tournefortia heliotropioides (a free-flowering plant of Verbena-like habit), Tropicolum speciosum. Lobelia syphili- tica, Polygonum amplexicaule, Tricyrtis hirta, Zephyranthes Candida, Stenactis speciosa, and Polygonum cuspidatum crispulum. Delphinium Belladonna is now lovely, its soft c(Drulean flowers being most useful for cutting ; Cyperiis longus is now very graceful associated with water margins in company with Typba latifolia, T. minor, and the common Beed (Arundo I'hragmitcs). SuPT. 16, 18?6.] THE GARDEN. 281 Dnimmond's Cone-flower (Rudbeckia Drummondi) , Vine leaved Kitaibelia (K vitifolia) Ordinary Border ChryBanthemum (0. indioum). Variegated Alstroemeria (A. versicolor) . Tartarian Statice (S. tatarica). Ivy-leaved Hairbell (Campanulahederacea). Piokerel-weed (Pontederia ODrdata). Graeetiil Sundowor (Helianthaa orgyalia). Woolly-herb (Tricyrtis hirta). SOME HARDY FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. 282 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 16, 1876. HARDY FLOWER GAE,DBNING. A CORRESPONDENT fsee p. 213) asks the following question, viz. : — " What good bedding plants can be raised from seed in the spring ? " This is certainly an important question as regards amateurs, who may have only limited accommodation in the way of glass structures. There are doubtless various species of hardy perennial and annual plants both beautiful and interesting with which a good efiect might be made during the summer and autumn. It is, of course, necessary that all plants intended to be used for beds, whether annual or perennial, should be continuous bloomers. An adherence to this neces- sary qualification will unavoidably exclude many otherwise desirable kinds, such as the Neraophilas, Clarkias, &c., while conspicuous among plants possessing the desired quality are the numerous varieties of perennial Phlox, more particularly those of Phlox decussata, an exceedingly beautiful tribe of hardy plants. The attempts made during the last few years to improve this desirable family of decorative plants have resulted in the production of numerous varieties possessing exquisite beauty, perfect form, and nearly every desirable shade of colour, from the purest white to the darkest purple, all of them being exceedingly well adapted for the purpose of furnishing the beds of the flower garden. Young plants, however, are found to be best suited for the purpose, as they flower in a comparatively dwarf state ; to secure this the old plants should be cut down close to the surface of the ground at the end of the season, and this will have the effect of induc- ing them to throw up numerous young shoots during the early part of the following spring. These should be taken off as soon as they are 1 in. or a little more in length, and inserted as cut- tings in pots filled with a compost of silver sand and finely- sifted leaf-soil, plunging the pots in a slight bottom-heat in a close frame, where they will root in the course of a few days ; they may then be potted off singly in small pots, gradually hardened, and finally planted out in the flower beds in May, where they will come into bloom about the end of 3 une or early in July, and during favourable seasons will continue in great beauty for the two succeeding mouths, or even longer. Annual Phloxes are also exceedingly beautiful, and suitable for beds. P. Drummondi violacea alba oculata is vigorous in growth, and flowers profusely ; the blooms are large and finely formed, the ground colour being rich crimson or violet, with white centre, relieved by a rich violet disc or eye. Nothing among bedding plants can surpass this variety in beauty and effectiveness, and it continues to bloom throughout the entire season. P. Hcynholdi has blooms of a bright scarlet colour, but it is less robust than the variety just alluded to. P. nana compaota coccinea is very dwarf in habit, and its blooms are of a bright fiery-red colour. There are also many other good bedding varieties in this section, including some with pure white flowers. Seeds of all kinds of Phlcxos should be sown in pots or seed- pans about the end of March or early in April, and should be placed in a slight hot-bed, or in a close greenhouse, where they will soon vegetate ; and, when the plants are large enough, they should be pricked into other pans, or they may be potted off singly, and will be ready to plant out in the flower-beds by the middle of May. Tbis treatment will also bo found to suit many other useful annual flowers, whose season of blooming will extend over a considerable portion of the summer and autumn months — such, for instance, as the Dianthus Heddewigi and its nume- rous varieties ; some of these produce double, and others single flowers, but all exceedingly beautiful, and generally they remain in good condition until the arrival of the autumn frosts. Tagotos signata pumila is a really fine bedding plant, with remarkably elegant foliage, producing a profusion of Isright yellow flowers throughout the season. In many gardens this plant is made to take the place of bedding Calceolarias, being equally effective, and more to be depended upon, especially in dry seasons. Viscaria ccorulea is another beautiful annual, the blooms of which are of a light blue colour; it forms an effec- tive bed, and during favourable seasons remains long in flower. Several of the dwarf annual Tropceolums are also useful as bedding plants, such as T. compactum coccineum, T. luteum, &i!. A l)od of double Zinnias likewise forms an attractive ol)j(!ct in tho flower garden. The flowers of these are now per- fectly double and full, and of the most brilliant colours, rang- ing from pure white and yellow to dark purple and the brightest orange-scarlet. They are all continuous bloomers. There is, moreover a dwarf-growing variety, known as Zinnia elegans pumila, and the new Mexican variety, Z. Haageana fl.-pl. Scabiosa nana fl.-pl. is a dwarf form of the Scabiosa atro-purpurea, with large, full, double flowers of an almost black or dark maroon colour, and this forms a very rich-look- ing bed, and remains long in flower. Salpiglossis variabilis nana is a remarkably attractive annual, and one which remains in bloom for a considerable time. Its flowers are funnel-shaped, very beautifully veined, and the colours are exceedingly rich, comprising light blue, crimson, yellow, buff, &o. Such plants as the Lobelia speciosa and its varieties may all be treated as annuals ; but in order to have them sufliciently strong to be planted out in May, the seed should be sown not later than the beginning of Jilarch. In all cases, however, where great nicety is desired, it is advisable to increase such plants by cuttings, as seedlings are liable to vary from each other in a greater or less degree. Some of the new kinds of Mignonette have, in addition to their well-known fragrance, sufficient beauty to entitle them to a place in flower gardens. Among the best are Victoria, nana compacta, and multiflora, the seed of which may be sown in pans, and afterwards trans- planted ; but it generally succeeds best when sown about the beginning of April where it is intended to flower. In addition to the above-named annuals, there are also the Ten-Week and other Stocks, all of which form beautiful, as well as delight- fully fragrant, beds or groups in the flower gardens, as do also the various sections of improved French and German Asters, together with annual plants having coloured or ornamental leaves, such as the Amarantus melancholicus ruber, Perilla nankinensis, Pyrethrum Golden Feather, &c. To all these the treatment above recommended is applicable, viz. : — Sowing under glass in March or April, and planting out in May. The above remarks apply chiefly to annual plants suit- able for furnishing the beds of a flower garden. It may, however, at the same time be stated that there are many other useful perennial plants suitable for bedding so nearly hardy that even during very severe weather they only require a slight amount of protection, such as being placed in a cold pit or frame covered with a mat or similar material, while others being hardy require no protection whatever. To the latter class belong the Tritoma Uvaria, a noble plant, but somewhat late in coming into flower; yet either in the form of a clump or bed it is an imposing object. It may be readily increased by division or by seed, and the young plants thus raised will bloom during the second season. Gladiolus gandavensis and its many varieties also form effective groups, and the bulbs merely require to be planted in their respective beds in April, and to be taken up when the foliage has become decayed, and stored away during the winter. Most of the Fuchsias, including those with white corollas, make exceedingly beautiful aud permanent beds, and may be allowed to occupy the same spot for years. When the plants are annually cut down by the first severe frost, the surface of the bed should be covered to the depth of 2 in. or 3 in. with sawdust or cinder ashes. Viola cornuta and V. cornuta alba, together with beddiug Pansies of various sorts, are quite hardy, and easily increased by means of cuttings inserted under hand- glasses. The flowers of Veronica incana are also very beautiful, but they are produced somewhat early in the season, and do not last long. The plant is, however, valuable on account of its foliage, which is silvery-white, and it forms an admirable edg- ing to beds of flowering plants. It is perfectly hardy, and is easily increased by division. The same may be said of Coras- tiura Bioborsteini and tomentosura, Stachys lanata, Tussilago Farfara variegata, and Dactylis glomerata variegata. Gna- phalium lanatum, Santolina incana, Cineraria maritima and acanthifolia, Thymus marginatus aureus, and Golden Fleece may be readily increased by cuttings inserted under hand-glasses, all of them being quite hardy, as are also many succulents, such as Sempervivum californicum, Sedum acre aureum, and many others, now so extensively used and with good effect in the erabollishment of the flower garden. Amongst the various other species of plants suit.iblo for this purpose, and requiring only slight protection during winter, are the various varieties of bedding Verbenas and Calceolarias, all of which may be Sept. 16, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 283 struck in the shape of cuttings in a close frame during the autumn months, and wintered in cold pits with other plants requiring only slight protection from intense frost and shelter from heavy and continuous rainfalls, such as Echeveria secunda glauca, Centaurea ragusina, and others. A judicious use of the plants enumerated above, and to which many more might be added, will, I think, go far to furnish the beds of even an extensive flower garden during the summer and autumn months with a class of plants at once interesting and ornamental, without finding it absolutely neces- sary to have recourse to the use of tender species, the pre- servation of which during even ordinary winters necessarily involves considerable trouble and expense. Culford Hall. P. Grieate. DWAEF MAEIGOLDS. Amongst tender annuals African and French Marigolds have long held a prominent place, owing, doubtless, to their needs being small, and to their being very showy when in bloom. As cat flowers they are, although well adapted for the purpose, rather unsuitable, because of the unpleasant odour that arises from them when handled ; this fault, however, does not detract from their usefulness as border plants. The most effective among them are the richly-coloured orange and lemon African kinds, the flowers, of a good strain, being almost as large as cricket balls, and so thoroughly double as to be perfect both in shape and quantity of material. Under the distinctive colours of orange and lemon there are now to be found some four or more hues added to the above bright yellow and golden tints, and further, it is found that the golden kind, which seems to have sported from the lemon, has much larger flowers, and presents altogether an improved character compared with its parent. These African Mari- golds have a stout, hard seed that withstands damp better than the seed of the French kinds ; and if it be sown in a cool house or frame about the middle of April, it will produce strong robust plants ready for planting out at the end of May. The stouter and more hardened the plants are the greater is the probability that they will with- stand the attacks of slugs, as these depredators seem to have an especial liking for the succulent stems of tender annuals. The French Marigolds differ materially in habit of growth, and size, and colour of flower from the African kindg, but the latter are none the less decorative. It is the French variety that yields the beau- tiful striped flowers so much prized in the North at floral exhibitions, as m the cooler and moister climate of the North and Midland districts the colours are developed to a degree of beauty to which we in the south are strangers. That this feature is peculiar to the climate, and not to the " strain," is evident ; for I have now plants raised from seed saved expressly from the finest northern exhibition kinds, and they are in no way better than those produced by plants raised from home-saved stock. Yet, whilst the Marigold possesses BO much better colours under cool auspices, it is nevertheless one of the best plants to withstand drought, for it blooms profusely and with vigour m soils dry enough to produce entire collapse in all but hardy established plants. The old striped forms of the French Mangold grow to a height of about 2 ft., and have a branching and spreading habit, which often interferes with their neighbours, and they are specially liable to be broken by strong winds. Their growth, too is rapid, ana until the plants have attained their full vigour the succes. sive branches rapidly hide the earlier flowers. This is a defect which IS not compensated for until the plants are in fall bloom in the autumn. I hope soon to show an improved strain of this Marigold that must eventually supersede in popular favour the tall varieties. The plants, when fully grown, are from 10 in. to 12 in. m height, and the same in diameter, forming a dense bush of foliage, above which the whole of the flowers are well elevated on 6.in. stems this character being maintained throughout the season. In form and decorative beauty these are far in advance of the tall sorts, and will produoe a really beautiful mass of flowers if used as bedding plants. This dwarf strain also furnishes a greatly-increased size of flower, one at least double the size of that of ordinary sorts. A large proportion is of the trne-striped character, some are dark chestnut selfs, some yellow, some orange, and others a variety of tints m combination and otherwise. But they offer to those who grow the Mangold solely for exhibition one special advantage, inas- much as they caii be shown as pot plants. A stand of a dozen small Mangold flowers is not much to look at, but half-a-dozen of these plants well grown with some thirty to forty expanded flowers on them of fine form and substance deserve more than a passing glance. In such a case it would be necessary to relax the somewhat obsolete rule that limits competition entirely to striped flowers, as it shuts out equally beautiful self forms and entirely exolades variety. Allied to this dwarf strain is the excellent bedding variety known as aurea floribunda, a close, compact-growing sort, that produces medium-sized blooms of good double form and rich yellow colour in great abundance all through the summer. All Marigolds produce some single and semi-double flowers from the very best strains, and to make a good even bed it is necessary to flower the plants first, and then select the most double ones and plant them where they are to remain for the season. Marigolds stand heat and wet better than most summer-blooming plants. A. D. White Autumn Wind-flower (Anemone japonica alba). — A half-wild bed of this plant is now blooming freely in Mr. Barr's grounds at Tooting, some of its stems being fully a yard or more in height. It is planted in a deep, strong soil, and is sheltered and shaded by a screen of young Lombardy Poplars. Thus treated it grows and blooms more vigorously than I have ever seen it else, where, and is far more luxuriant than clumps of the common pink, flowered type growing close beside it. Deep, rich soil and partial shade seem to suit this plant, and it would doubtless soon become naturalised beside woodland walks and drives. Its pure white single rose.like flowers and bright green foliage are quite spring-like in appearance, and are useful for decorating large drawing-room vases. — B. Violas at Eglinton Castle.— Probably there never has been such a display of thoroughly well-cultivated and effective varieties of bedding Violas in one place as was to be seen at Eglinton Castle about the end of July, and they had all the appearance then of lasting in great beauty throughout the whole season. Circumstances had led Mr. Gray to make Violas a speciality in the flower garden, where his most effective varieties are seedlings of his own; one named Lottie was used in great numbers, and we thought it the best Viola of the lively violet-purple class we ever saw. It is a robust but compact grower, and throws its blooms well up on stiff stalks above the foliage. By far the best white grown in quantity was Purity, but Mr. Gray showed us a seedling in his trial ground which, for whiteness, substance of petal, and good habit, seemed to be perfec. tion. Noticeable, also, in the trial ground, according to "The Gardener," was a lavender-coloured variety of very dwarf, compact habit, regarding the merits of which we have a high opinion ; it is entirely new in colour among Violas, and when it can be planted in mass it is possible it may drive such plants as the dwarf Ageratums out of the gardens, at least in cool, moist localities. While speaking of Violas, we may remark that the climate of Chiswick is not suit- able for testing this flower ; it is too hot and dry. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE PLOWEE GAEDEN. Eeaovating a Bad Lawn on Chalk (see p. 260),— There is only the one remedy, and that is to remove the chalk from the portion of the lawn affected, break up the bottom, and replace the chalk with good soil. This is an iustanca of the importance of taking: care always to preserve the top soil in operations of this kind. Every spadeful should be preserved and kept for the surface — W. H. ■ Pelargonium, Leamington Lassie.— This Pelargonium received a flrst- ciass certificate when shown. It is compact and robust in habit, and flowers freely, throwing up large trussea of semi-double, lively pink flowers on sturdy stalks well above the foliage. It was (according to "The Gardener") raised by Messrs. Parsons & Co., of Hanelagh Gardens, Leamington. Like all double and semi-double Pelargoniums, its individual trusses of bloom last a long time in perfection, renderirig it an excellent variety for pot culture. Sanders' New Dwarf White Candytuft.— A Candytuft white as snow, 3 in. to 6 in. high, the whole forming a close tuft from 15 in. to 18 in. across, the flowers just enough separated here and there to give a gUrapse of verdure to relieve the white, such is the little variety bearing this name. AsBuming that the plant is a fair sample of the stock, it is the best white annual for small beds or front rows that I have seen. The flower-heads are from 3 in. to 3 in. across, and are composed of a great number of individual blossoms, proceeding from six to eight separate centres. This peculiar arrangement of the flowers gives them a comparatively even, flat appearance, and assures a long continu- ance of bloom. — D. T. F. Bed of Cape and Scented-leaved Pelargoniums.- In an old garden at Castle Ashby planted with sweet-scented plants is a bed containing the following kinds of Cape and scented-leaved Pelargoniums ; the interesting flowers produced by some of the smaller growinij varieties are extremely rich in colour and very beautiful. Among them are Pelargonium echinatum, maculatum. cortrasEefolium, magnistipulatum, inodorum, grossularioides, citriodomm, citriodorum crispum, incisum, Shrubland Pet, quercifolium, Blandfordianum, monstrosum, denticula- tum, capitatum, Bethalina, cordatum, acetosum, papihonaceum, malvEefoliura stenopetalum, ternatum, grandidentatum, fragrans, abrotanifolium, tomen- tosum, viscosissimum, Lady Plymouth, pumilum, ignescens, glutinosum, sca- brum, gibbosum, radulatum, glaucum, ionidiflorum, ramosisaimum, and sisvm- brif oUum.— G. B. 284 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 16, 1876, THE INDOOR GARDEN. CBNTRADENIAS AND THEIR CULTURE. These are pretty dwarf-growing plants belonging to the Melastomads. They are especially adapted for those amateurs who have only the convenience of a small stove, as they can be grown and flowered well in 6-in. or 8-in. pots. The flowers are small, and individually of short duration, but they are pro- duced in quantities successionally for many weeks ; the leaves are long and narrow, proportionate in size to the plants, deep green above, and violet or deep red on the under surface : in this latter respect the oldest introduced species, 0. rosea, is the darkest. The leaf.colouring renders this variety particularly useful for cutting in the winter to mis with flowers, as the leaves retain their colour for a month in water, and although requiring heat to grow and flower them, the leaves will retain their beauty in a room with little or no warmth. Used in this ■way, altogether independent of the flowers, C. rosea is one of the most serviceable plants that can be employed for decorative purposes, its dwarf compact habit adapting it for standing upon shelves near the glass, in which position it receives the greatest amount of light, which is quite indispensable to induce the free opening of the flowers ; for if Centradenias be placed at a distance from the glass, and at all darkened by the shade of other plants, or in a house or pit that is dark, the blooms fall off without opening ; owing to this many persons have been so disappointed with them as to give up their cultivation, affirming that it was through the absence of sun in the winter that the flowers drop unexpanded, whereas it was by not placing them where they could receive sufiicient light, coupled with an overwatering of the soil at a season when the root- action is very slight ; neither are these the only Melastomads that are thus affected, as several of both the stove .and green- house species are subject to the same drawback it they do not receive sufficient light ; of this the strong-growing Medinilla magniflca is an example ; it often casts its flowers before they open, if brought into bloom early in the spring, and placed where it does not receive its maximum of light. Centradenias will grow in either peat or loam, or a mixture of both, but I have always found that any plant that is at all subject to throw off its flower-buds is more liable to do so when grown in peat or a mixture of peat than when loam alone is used, at once pointing to the greater strength imparted by loam than peat, although the latter generally produces freer growth with a larger development of the leaves, as also im- parting to them deeper colour. They root freely from cuttings at any time during spring or summer, when the wood is in a half-ripened state, but it is better to propagate them early ; if the cuttings be put in during March in small pots, drained and filled to within an inch of the rim with a mixture of one-third sifted loam to two-thirds of silver sand, adding 1 inch of sand to the surface, they will root in a fortnight or three weeks in .a temperature of 70°, keeping them moderately confined but not too close, or the leaves are liable to damp; when rooted, gradually expose them to the full air of the house, and when the little pots are fairly filled with roots, shift them into others 4 in. in diameter, using good turfy loam pulled to pieces about the size of Acorns, with one-fifth of sand added ; place them on a front shelf, where they will receive plenty of light, but shade slightly when the sun is powerful. It is not well to grow them in too much heat, an intermediate temperature of 65° in the night, with 10° more in the day, through the summer is better than if a higher temperature be employed, which only produces weak growth, a condition by all means to bo avoided. The natural habit is such as to need little or no support, a single small stick to the main stem being ail that is required. Pinch out the points of the leading shoots to induce them to break back and keep compact and bushy. It may be found necessary to repeat this two or three times during the summer. Give them more air than the majority of stove plants require. This may be man.Tged without interfering with the require- ments of other subjects grown in the same house by placing them near where air is admitted ; but although beneHted by a free circulation of the atmosphere, they must not be subjected to a draught. Syringe them overhead every afternoon through the growing season, closing the house early enough to raise the temperature considerably for an hour or two. Give plenty of water at the root. By the beginning of July they will want moving into the pots in which they are to flower ; these should be from 6 in. to 8 in. in diameter, not larger than the last named, for it is essential to have the soil thoroughly filled with roots before the autumn is too far advanced, otherwise the wood does not become sufficiently ripe for the production of flowers to an extent the plants are capable of when well matured. Give them at this shift soil similar to that in which they were last potted, and continue to treat in other ways as before until the beginning of September, when they will not need to be longer shaded or syringed, after which give a little more air, thereby gradually causing a cessation of growth. As the days get shorter reduce the temperature by degrees, keeping it from .55° to 60° in the night with a slight increase in the day- time. When the flower-buds begin to swell place the plants as near to the glass as possible without touching it, which arrangement will not only have the effect of preventing a dis- position to premature dropping, but the blooms will opea brighter in colour. At this time an application of clear manure-water of moderate strength once a week will benefit them. By keeping a portion of the plants somewhat cooler than the othei-s a succession of flowers can be had, using for cutting those that have been longest blooming. There is no necessity for any reluctance in cutting the branches to whatever extent they may be required, for it is much better to grow on a fresh lot of plants each year, using the old ones for decorative pur- poses in a cut state as above indicated, merely retaining a plant or two from which cuttings should again be taken in spring. Most insects that infest stove plants will live on Cen- tradenias ; the regular syringing recommended through the growing season will generally keep down red spider, aphides, and thrips, but when the syringe is found insufiicient these can be destroyed by dipping in a weak solution of insecticide. If mealy bug or scale get established on the plants and they are neglected for a time, it is diSicult to eradicate them without injuring the leaves ; the best means for the removal of the former is laying the plants on their sides and syringing freely with tepid water, using a small, soft brush for the scale. C. rosea ia a native of Mexico, whence it was introdaoed over thirty years ago, and at one time was much more generally cultivated than at present, the increasing densand for cut flowers of a showy description having put it in the shade, few having tried it for the purpose for which it is so well adapted, viz., mixing ita branches with flowers with which the coloaring and form of the leaves contrast so well. C. floribunda is from Guatemala ; it baa larger flowers, purplish- violet in colour, and produced in great profusion. The leaves of this plant are also stained with purple on the under surface. There ia a third kind in cultivation, C. grandiflora, requiring similar treatment, but it is not so desirable a plant as the others. T. Baines. Orafting Seedling Pelargoniums to induce Variegation. — Having noticed the effect of grafting the variegated Aoera on the green varieties, and also the occasional breaking of various other planta into variegation, both hai'd and soft wooded, after being grafted with a variegated scion, I was induced to try the effects of grafting ou Pelargoniums. I raise about 100 seedlings every year, and as the seed is the result of careful crossing, some very good varieties are obtained. Early in May I inserted a few grafts of a valueless seedling silver tricolor at the base of some broad-zoned seedlings — plants that had been cut down but which had not " broken " colour, at the same time pinching out the points, and, with one exception, they all " broke " silver tricolors, although in many oases the scion died out after it had united, owing to the vigour of the heads. As soon as I saw the effecta of the grafting, I worked some fifty well-shaped groou Zonals belonging to the tricolor section, and, with two exceptiona, they have all broken colour within two months after grafting, a resalt that I should never have obtained in the ordinary manner. My plan of grafting is to take a side shoot of moderately hard growth, and leaving a small heel attached to it, insert it in a cleft about 1 in. from the soil, binding the graft together tightly with raflia, and in about six weeks the scion becomes firmly united ; the bead of the plant is then removed about 8 in. above the scion, and, in the majority of cases, in a week or so from two to a dozen variegated " breaks " appear, which, when large enough, are Sept. 16, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 286 taken off, and struck in sh&rp Band and loam — one part fibrous loam to five of silver sand ; when well rooted, the cuttingg are potted off. As regards the effect of grafting, I may mention that two cuttings off the same plant were reserved for standards, and out of curiosity I worked one with a scion of the silver tricolor P. picturatum, and the other with the golden tricolor P. Sophia Dumaresque ; both broke colour, the one silver and the other golden tricolor, a fact which shows that the colour obtained is due to the introduction of the sap of the particular scion used into the stock, although the exact form of either leaf or variegation may not be imparted to it. It is, however, useless to attenipt to induce plants, other than those belonging to the tricolor section, to become tricolors, as the ordinary varieties of bed- ding Zonals are wholly devoid of the necessary colour in the zone to impart that richness of colour which constitutes a tricolor. — W. J. Mat, Eilburn. THE LARGE-FLOWBEBD JASMINE. (JASMINUM GEANDIfLORUM.) This is one of the most fragrant and acceptable of all indoor shrubs, and one which is largely grown in all good establish- Large-flowered Wiiite Jasmine. ments where cut flowers for bouquets are desired. It is generally cultivated as a stove plant, but sush treatment is not essential, inasmuch as we recently saw a vigorous specimen of it in Mr. W. Paul's Nursery at Waltham Cross growing and blooming freely in a cool house. In a warm temperature, how- ever, the plant keeps on growing and flowering, and is simply invaluable where choice flowers are much in request during autumn and winter. Last September we saw a splendid speci- men of it in Mr. Methven's Nursery, Inverleith Row, Edin- burgh, and the plant is also grown by Mr. Wills for cut flowers; nevertheless, it is by no means so plentiful as it deserves to be, since its fragrance and pure white flowers are quite distinct from those of any other plant with which we are familiar. Our illustration was prepared from cut speci- mens kindly sent to us by Mr. Denning, Londesborough Gardens, Norbiton, by whom the plant is very successfully grown. It is easily propagated by means of layering, and grows luxuriantly when planted out in any deep well-drained soil. B. COTTAGE GARDliNli^G. The Grape "Vine. Open-aib, Cultdke.— If thesame painsand still were bestowed upon the culture of Grape Vine in the open air as when under glass, a vast improvement would soon take place in its pro- duce. Every cottager who has a bare place on his cottage with a southern, south-eastern, or south-western aspect, niay plant a Grape Vine, and if he will give some attention to the prepara- tion of the site, and learn the few simple rules applicable to its culture, he may add both to the comfort of his family and himself as well as to his income. Though the Grapes produced by open-air Vines may in most cases be inferior to those grown under glass, still instances may be found, which, though isolated, are yet sufficiently numerous to show that when the Grape Vine in the open air is well managed very good fruit is the result. The common errors in its culture are : — Training the main branches too thickly ; delay, and in some cases almost total neglect, in disbudding ; and overcropping. The latter, it fine clusters of fruit be desired, is a very great evil. It may not have so disastrous an effect upon outdoor Vines as upon those grown under glass, for the circumstances under which they are grown are less artificial, but none the less surely does overcropping have a most pernicious effect upon the quality of the produce of any tree or plant subjected to it. True, the Grape Vine in the open air is one of the most enduring of plants, it being scarcely possible to kill it by neglect, but there is no comparison between the produce of a Vine well cared for and one neglected. Almost any soil that will grow good crops of vegetables will produce good open-air Grapes. But the Vine, like the Ivy, seems to have a partiality for old crumbling ruins. Some of the finest open-air Grapes I have ever seen were grown some years ago upon the remains of the old city wall at Norwich; the site was dry and warm, and the soil rich from the accumulations and decompositions of ages. Where the soil is fairly good trench it up ii ft. deep and 6 ft. square for each plant ; as they increase in size more space can be prepared for them. It will be an advantage if a few barrowsful of horse-droppings, fresh loam, lime debris from old buildings, and a few bones, can be worked in at the same time. There is hardly a possibility of making a mistake in adding a reasonable quantity of any of the materials just enumerated, as they are calculated to improve even the best soils as far as their adaptation to Grape culture is concerned. If the site be damp and resting on clay, put in the bottom 9 in. of brick rubble or stones, scatter a few spadesf ulof lime and coal ashes over the top, water it, and ram it down firmly ; on this foundation place the soil and plant the young Vine. There are various ways of propagating Vines. Where there is a hot-bed or a greenhouse, or even a cold frame or hand- light, the best way is to plant single eyes in small pieces of thick turf about 4 in. or 5 in. square and 3 in. thick, laid with the turf side downwards ; scrape a srnall quantity of soil out of the centre, press the Vine-eye into the hollow place so created, and fill up the space with fine rich soil. When a sufficient number of eyes have been inserted, they may be placed under a hand-light and kept close. If a slight bottom-heat can be secured, such as might easily be obtained by digging a hole in any warm corner, filling it up with manure covered with about 2 in. of soil to arrest and absorb any destructive gases that might a,rise in fermentation, the eyes will root and break stronger. When the hand-light is placed on the prepared site, the turves containing the Vine eyes should be placed closely together in it, and kept close. In cutting out the eyes leave about half-an-inch of wood on each side, and take off a thin slice of bark and wood from the side opposite to the bud, to induce the emission of roots. For open-air Vines February will be found an excellent time for this operation, and the young Vines might be planted during the early summer, when hardened off and the border well prepared. There are various other modes of propagating the Grape Vine> such as layering, which may be done when the Vines are at rest, or during the summer when the young shoots are getting firni. Simply make an upward longitudinal cut about halfway through the shoot, and through a joint to arrest the sap at that point ; peg it with the cut side downwards into a small mound of rich soil and keep moist, or peg it into a pot of moist soil. Tie each 286 THE GARDEN. [Sept, 16, 1876. layered branch to a stake to keep it ia position. Cuttings of ripened wood 6 in. or 8 in. long, with an inch or so of old wood at the b.ise, planted firmly against a -wall at any time during autumn or winter, leaving about one eye out of the ground, Tvill make thriving plants in a short time. Whichever plan may be adopted, some time between May and August is the best season for final planting, unless cuttings are relied on, and then autumn, as soon as the wood is ripe, would be found most suitable. If the young plants be taken from pots the roots should be carefully uncoiled and straightened out, and covered with about 6 in. of soil, and then mulched with 2 in. or 3 in. of half-decayed manure, giving them water when necessary. The first season, or the remainder of the season, after planting the growths might all be laid in to encourage root-action ; but in the autumn, when the wood is firm and well matured, head tbem back to three eyes. In the following spring select the two best placed shoots, train them up vertically, and rub oil all other buds. When the shoots are 6 ft. high pinch out the terminal buds to strengthen and cause the back eyes to plump up ; afterwards the new leader should be laid in, but all other laterals should be pinched to one leaf. In autumn prune to within 4 ft. of the base — more or less, according as the wood is strong and matured — and train the shoots out hori- zontally at right angles. From these horizontal rods train up vertically other rods 2 ft. apart to form the main branches of the tree, from which the fruiting spurs will issue in due course. As regards cropping, scarcely any arbitrary rule can be laid down, for so much depends upon the strength of the Vines ; but no matter how strong or vigorous they may be, one bunch only should bo left on each shoot, and it will be better to still further reduce the number, if the bunches be large. In spring, as soon as the bunches are visible, commence disbud- ding, by gradually removing the weakest growths, until only sufficient young wood to fill up the wall is left. These ■ should be laid in at an angle of something like 45°, and be stopped at one joint beyond the fruit, and all subse- quent laterals during the season pinched to one leaf. If time can be spared the bunches, or some of them, mio^ht be thinned with the scissors ; but it should be done as soon after the berries are set as possible, for if delayed much longer, the result may perhaps end in disappointment. Vines may be planted as single cordons, and trained either vertically or obliquely, or in any other form, but where there is sufficient room for the roots to extend, in my opinion it is much better to allow each Vine to cover a good extent of wall, and where this is practicable, they will improve annually for many years. What is termed the winter pruning should be completed as ; soon as the leaves fall; it is a great mistake to delay this j 1 II operation till February or March, as is too frequently the case. 1 \ I Healthy prolific Vines may always be pruned back to one good ) 1 1 eye, and unless they have been otherwise badly treated, they will always show plenty of fruit. In the course of years it is a good plan to cut back an old rod occasionally and lead up a young one, as young wood always bears the finest fruit. In dealing with old Vines that have been neglected, cut out half the main rods at the autumn pruning, and the following spriuo' train up young shoots in their places. It is best, of course, to take out every alternate rod, and as soon as the young rods come into bearing— which they should when one year old — out out the remainder of the old ones, and replace them with young wood the following season ; this will give an opportunity, if the main branches have hitherto been too much crowded, to reduce their number, and thereby open out the Vine. Thus the Vines, so far as the branches are concerned, will bo thoroughly renewed; but, at the same time, if it be found necessary, something ought to be done for the encouragement of healthy root-action. If exhaustion or poverty in the soil be the only fault, this can be overcome by heavily mulching with short manure, or by sprinkling guano over the border twice or three times during the season, and watering it well in. If the border be too damp, or the soil too closo and sour, the only effectual remedy ia to remove it carefully, saving as many of the roots as possible, and to remake the border with fresh soil, taking care that the drainage is not again neglected. Vines trained on cottages often have their roots running under paved courts, which will therefore be soraewbat difiicult of access ; but, as a rule, Vmes so situated are in the best of health, and if the wood be well thinned out, and the disbudding and pinch- ing regularly attended to, they may continue for many years with their fruit-bearing powers unimpaired. Should a stimulant at any time be necessary, guano may be used with- out any disagreeable effluvium arising therefrom. The best Grapes for open-air culture are : — White — Royal Muscadine ; black — Esperione. \ The Vinert. — Thousands of small gardens now-a-days have each their Vinery, and in favourable situations good Grapes have been grown without going to the expense of making elaborate borders. In one of the largest and most successful Grape-growing establishments in the Eastern Counties nothing in this way was required beyond trenching up the ground 2 ft. or 3 ft. deep and adding manure. The soil was naturally a deep, mellow loam, and as the place was situated on the side of a hill the drainage was perfect, and in any similar situation no great expense need be incurred in border making. But there are a great many places — indeed, the majority are so — where, if first-class Grapes be desired, a border for the roots must be specially prepared ; and where this is necessary it is a mistake to attempt it grudgingly, half measures being seldom satisfac- tory. Where the soil is really bad it is better to have it wheeled or carted away, and replaced with fresh. The top spit from an old pasture about 3 in. deep is the Grape grower's ideal of a soil for the Vine, and to five or six loads of this may be added one load of horse-droppings or any thoroughly good manure. If the loam be heavy, old mortar, charcoal dust, and crushed bones may be added ; or if the main staple be light and sandy, marl or clay will be beneficial, especially for thick- skinned Grapes, such as Muscats and other late-keeping kinds. The drainage of course must be first attended to, and in places where artificial borders are necessary it is better to have at least half their bulk or thickness made above the ground-level, and ia the case of a new building this should be borne in mind ia order that the front wall should be of the necessary height. I should prefer to have the front wall plates resting on 1-i-in. piers 4 ft. apart, rather than have the wall on arches, which is a very common arrangement. Very good Grapes have beea grown where the roots have been confined to inside borders, and the same is also true when the roots are exclusively out- side, but I think the best arrangement is to have the border partly inside and partly outside, with the Vines planted inside so that the roots can spread out in all directions. Rough stones or brickbats 1 ft. in thickness should be placed on the bottom, which should have a sufficient inclination to the front to cause any excess of moisture to pass freely away to the drain laid along the front of the border and 1 ft. below it, the space to be filled up with stones. It is not necessary that all the width of the border should be made at the same time ; ia fact, it will be better for the Vines not to do so, as the roots cannot occupy it all at once, and if 6 ft. or 8 ft. be made to start with, the remainder can be added when the Vines are in full bearing. The width of border must in some measure depend upon the size of the house, but it should not be less than the length oE the rafters, and it may be as much more as is convenient. As regards the depth of soil in Vine borders local conditions must be so fully taken into consideration that it is hardly safe to lay down a rule thereupon. In the Eastern Counties, with a porous subsoil and a limited rainfall, I should recommend the borders to bo made at least 3 ft. deep. In some parts of the Midlands and in the Northern and North-western Counties where the rainfall is greater, a depth of 2 ft. might be found sufiicient. On a dry soil I should not recommend shallow borders to be made unless the facilities for watering are almost unlimited, but wherethe situation is unfavourable shallow borders are more manageable. It should bo borne in mind, however, that the more artificial the conditions are under which fruit trees are grown the greater is the necessity for unremitting attention to them. If a Vine be planted against a wall or in a glass house, and left without the requisite amount of care and attention, comparative failure will be inevitable. A tree planted in a shallow border requires more care in mulching and watering than if the soil had boon of a greater depth. This, no doubt, explains why men who have been successful fruit-growers in one place entirely fail on moving to another, where the local conditions arc altogether different. Like means will not always 'i"dcr all circumstances produce like results. I have already Sept. 16, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 287 adverted to the propagation o£ the Grape Vine, and therefore it is not necessary to go further into details. Since that terrible scourge, the Phylloxera vastatrix, has made its appearance in English Vineries, ivhere Vine eyes can be obtained from clean, healthy Vines, it may be advisable to raise the young Vines for planting at home ; and this can easily be done by starting them on turves in a gentle hot-bed in February. The borders could be made in March, and the young Vines planted in May, or as soon as they were in a fit condition to put out. The best Grapes for a small house are Black Hamburgh; Foster's Seed- ling, Buckland Sweetwater, Black Alicante, and Madresfield Court Black Muscat; and if only two kinds be desired, I should select Black Hamburgh and Foster's Seedling. Al- though I have suggested the planting should be done in May, as it gives a longer time for growth than if planted later, I have planted in August, and never had Vines succeed better than those did. The soil then is so warm, the roots take such a thorough hold of it, that when spring comes round again they are prepared to make a very yigorous start. One Vine should be planted to each rafter, but a second rod may be trained up the centre of each light, unless the house is used for plants as well as Grapes ; in that case it will be better to do without the addi- tional rod. In the autumn, prune back to the bottom of the rafter, and the following season the young rods will cover the roof early. Stop them when they reach within 2 ft. of the top, and pinch all laterals just beyond the first leaf. This is important, as the size of the future bunches is dependent upon having well-developed foliage on the main rods. The third season, even when planted as late as August, they should be strong enough to carry a full crop. Of course, much will depend upon the care bestowed on the young Vines. The main agents of growth are heat and moisture, accompanied by a careful attention to ventilation, and these either are, or ought to be, entirely under the cultivator's control, and should be present in such proportions as to secure the most perfect development and maturation both of wood and foliage, for good fruit never yet came from weak, spindly wood, or thin, flimsy foliage. I am assuming that little or no artificial heat would be employed, for to force Grapes successfully calls for skill of a higher order than when they are brought forward with the warmth of the sun only. Much, however, may be done by early closing on bright afternoons, not only to forward, but also to bring to a high state of development both size and quality. In the application of atmospheric moisture, almost everything depends upon the external temperature. If the weather be bright and sunny, damp all dry places on both borders and paths at about four o'clock; when the house is closed, and during periods of bright weather in summer, when the crop is swelling off and great demands are made upon the plants, the floors may be damped in the middle of the day. Both the colour and flavour of the fruit depend upon keeping the foliage healthy, and this mid-day damping of paths, &c., in hot weather is a great support to the foliage. Small houses require more attention in this way than large ones, because from the latter containing a large body of air they are less influenced by the external temperature. When the fruit begins to colour a drier atmosphere must be main- tained, damping only on yery hot days. All Vine borders should be heavily mulched with manure both inside and out, and this is doubly important with shallow borders. The plan I have adopted for years for late houses is to mulch in April, leaving it on till the following February or March, then fork it in lightly, leaving the surface loose and exposed for a few weeks to aerate and sweeten. No doubt this forking destroys a few of the surface-roots, but the benefits derived from the operation seem to counterbalance any ill-effects produced by it. In the course of eight or ten years, as the fibres in the soil decay, this constant mulching tends to render the soil rather pasty, but this may be rectified by forking in a good layer (2 in. or 3 in.) of old plaster, or the debris from old buildings ; but 10 in. or so of the top soil taken ofi and replaced with fresh, turfy loam, will be found a superior treatment. In this way the health and fertility of the Vines may be kept up for many years. In removing the top soil where surface-rooting had been, encouraged, great care must be taken not to injure the roots more than necessary. The steel fork should be carefully used to extricate the largest roots from the soil, and it will be better not to begin the work till there is a chance of completing it without any unnecessary exposure or delay. As regards watering the roots, in very many cases Vines do not get sufiicient water. They are gross feeders, and in no case — not even in winter — should they be allowed to become dust- dry. Inside borders are perhaps more likely to be overlooked and neglected than those outside, and in all the early stages of growth it will be better if it can be conveniently arranged, to have a portion of the water heated to mix with the remainder, and raise the temperature of the whole. Some misapprehension may possibly exist as to what constitutes a good soaking of water, as the term admits of several interpre- tations being placed upon it. Eoughly speaking, if a border require watering beyond a mere surface-spi-inkling, for the purpose of raising vapour in the atmosphere, less than what would be equivalent to 2 in. of rainfall all over the surface, would not be sufficient, and this must be given as often as is necessary — in all probability it will be required two or three times during the growing season again, when all the fruit is cut ; and once more about February or March, when growth begins. This, however, is mere conjecture, but it is as near as can be given without knowing all particulars of the strength of the Vines, and the constitution and condition of the borders. Ventilation. — This is of such great importance for the suc- cessful development of the Grape Vine, that if great attention be not bestowed upon it, either the fruit may be spoiled by mil- dew, or the foliage destroyed by red spider ; or, to take the least of the evils that may arise from neglect, the fruit will probably lack colour, flavour, and finish. From a cause to which I have previously alluded, small houses require more attention than larger ones. The thin stratum of air in a small house soon becomes heated by the sun, whilst at the same hour in the morning the temperature of the air in a large house would be comparatively cool. In old-fashioned houses glazed with small squares of glass, with wide laps between them through which the air had free access both night and day, there was not much occasion for night ventilation, as at times, especially in windy weather, there was an excess of air ; but with modern- built houses, where large squares of glass are used, early-morning ventilation is especially important, and on mild nights, or whenever frost is not apprehended, a small aperture to admit theair along the back of the house will keep the inside atmosphere in motion, and will otherwise be beneficial. The proper way to ventilate a Vinery when growth has com- menced is on bright mornings to slightly open all the back ventilators not later than six o'clock, gradually increasing the ventilation as the sun gets higher and has more influence on the glass. Sudden changes or extremes of temperature are always hurtful to tender foliage, and when the houses are kept closed till eight o'clock or later, as frequently happens, the lights are opened too wide, in order to keep down the temperature, whereby a rush of cold air is admitted that chills and often rusts the young fruit. The proper time to push on growth by a little extra heat from the sun is in the afternoon. Commence reducing the ventilation by half-past three, and have all finally closed by four o'clock, then if all the borders and paths be well moistened a genial growing atmo- sphere will be created that will be exceedingly beneficial to the Vine, and on mild nights, about eight or nine o'clock in the evening, half-an-inch of air may be admitted in a few places along the back to prevent any stagnation in the atmosphere of the house. In windy weather this will be unnecessary, as in the best glazed houses when any disturbance takes place in the atmosphere outside, its influence is always felt under a glass roof. Where little or no artificial heat is used, tables of temperature would be of little use to the inexperienced culti- vator, and might possibly mislead him. Advantage should be taken of favourable weather to ventilate freely, especially in the early part of the day, gradually increasing it as the thermometer rose till ten or eleven o'clock; when in hot weather let all the lights be open. Oftentimes in spring we have a bright sun and at the same time a keen, biting wind, and it is at such times that caution and judgment are neces- sary in order to avoid cold currents rushing through the 288 THE GARDEN. [Sept. Ifl, 1876. young foliage and fruit. On such days front air must be spa- ringly given, if at all, and it is better to allow the temperature to run up a little higher than usual, freely sprinkling the paths and borders with water to assist the foliage, rather than run any risk from cold draughts : the house may at all times during the growing season, or till the fruit begins to ripen, be closed early enough for the thermometer to rise to 80" or 85', and this will have a considerable effect in swelling the fruit to a good size. When the Grapes begin to colour, a free circula- tion of air should be left on all night, or the colour will be imperfect and the flavour deficient. The bearing wood of Vines sliould be trained at least 15 in. or 16 in. from the glass. When Vines are trained close to a glass roof, where large squares of glass are used, and the rafters are light, and con- sequently the shade almost nominal, the sudden changes of tem- perature often have an injurious effect upon the health and vigour of the Vines. Following close upon hot bright days we often have very cold nighcs, and the foliage close to the glass loses colour and looks pale and sickly, as much or more perhaps from the radiation at night as from the heat by day. I have known several cases where the trellis had to be lowered in consequence of this, and afterwards the Vines recovered their healthy appearance. Thinning the Grapes. — This is a matter upon which no one can speak with any degree of confidence without a fair amount of experience of the strength and condition of the Vines. Speaking generally, at least two-thirds of the berries should be taken out in such a manner as to give each berry left, room to swell to its full size. This should be done as soon as the berries are well set, and as far as possible leave in all those that appear to be taking the lead, and cut out the small ones. Where high culture is carried on severer thinning will have to be adopted, in order to give the berries of Black Hamburgh and Buckland Sweetwater room to swell to their full size. Thinning Grapes should be performed with a careful hand, to avoid cutting or injuring the remaining fruit, and the one operation should be final. Nothing but practice, however, can make an expert Grape thinner. A Noble Tropical Tree (Mora exoelsa). — Having passed in the course of the day several small tributaries of the Barima, its bed became narrower and more winding, so much that our progress was much slower. The banka increa^ied in bright, and the vegetation be. oame more luxuriant until, with the appearance of that gigantic tree of the Mora exoelsa (Benth.), which may be called the Oak of the Tropica, it reached its culmiuation. There is none of the Baropean forest trees which could be paralleled with it as a representative. Our large Oaks would only seem dwarfs if standing near one of these giants, the stem of which is overshadowed by the most beautiful dark green foliage. The Indians give this noble tree the name of the " Chief of the Forests," and this is the most appropriate name which oould have been chosen. We were often deceived by these giant trees when we suddenly roauded one of the bends of the river, imagining we saw before us in the distance a number of wooded hills, which, when nearer, changed into single groups of Mora trees, towering high above the surrouuditig vegetation. No idea can be formed of a Mora forest ; it is ao thick that the sight of heaven is denied to those who enter it. Everything is drowned in a mass of shadows; the eye can only behold a labyrinth of trees of gigantic proportions which astonish and overawe him, garnished with a dome of foliage that darkens the atmo- sphere, and renders it intolerably heavy and gloomy. Lianas of immense thickness entwine with giant arm these trunks and ramble to the highest branches, where they crown these giants ; then again grow down from this giddy height on to the smaller trees, the branches oi which they entwine, and so fetter one tree to the other with a net. work, and hold in their strong arms those giants standing close on the banka of the rivers, whose secure position is often undermined by the rapid streams, thus preventing their sudden fall ; but should Buch a giant succumb, by his fall he will carry all the trees entwined by the same Lianas with him to destruction. The importance of the Mora for shipbuilding, which my late brother has already pointed out in his first travela, has been confirmed since. On the upper Barima this valuable tree is found in such numbers, and of such immense size, that the trees growing near the banks of the river alone would be suflicient to supply a whole fleet with material. The wood is so close and cross-grained, that it is difficult to split it. It is considered by the most competent judges to be superior to Oak, as it is not Bubjeot to the dry rot.—" Sohomburgk's Botanical Reminiscences of British Guiana." SELECT CANDYTUFTS. (with a COLOnHED FIGURE OF IBEKIS GIBRALTARICa). Few of the natural Orders into which plants have been classed contribute more largely to the gaiety of the spring garden and rockwork in early summer than Cruoifers, to which our Drabas, Aubrietias, Alyssums, Arabises, and a host of other genera belong, and amongst these the genus Iberis occupies a prominent position. The old annual Candytuft, with which in its varied tints of colour we are all tolerably familiar, has a special though somewhat short-lived beauty, like the majority of annuals. It was and is essentially defective in its lasting properties ; but besides the annual species we have a perennial section, amongst which we find many free-growing plants of a semi.shrubby character, perfectly hardy, and producing most effective cushions of snow.white bloom, raised from 3 in. to 6 in. above the ground, and extending laterally with a freedom of growth that renders them essentially valuable where an extent of rock surface has to be covered with Nature's drapery, or a spot of arid earth has to be clothed as with a garment whose compound parts consist of a dense arrangement of dark green foliage of a permanent and persistent character, from which during the months of May and June rise hundreds of snow-white corymbs, whose purity is greatly enhanced by the depth in tint of the subtending green. But, besides these trailing species whose value for garden decoration has long since been recognised, we have a more shrubby section, characterised by an upright habit of growth, and in this section the Gibraltar Candytuft stands without a rival. Its corymbs of bloom are not only large — as will at once be inferred from the accompanying plate — but they are suffused with a delicate lilac tint, varying in a gradually modified tone of colour from the circumference to the centre, the latter retaining for some time the original purity of the entire inflorescence. Here, then, is a plant whose only defect consists, not in any lack of beauty, nor in the evanescent character of that beauty, but in its inadaptability to stand, unless under very exceptional circumstances — the rigour of our northern climate. I may, however, state that the true value of this Iberis is to be found and appreciated, not as a capricious out-door plant, but as a valuable adjunct to the decoration of the greenhouse in the early spring months ; for this purpose, spring-struck plants, grown on during summer and well exposed to the full influence of the sun, by means of which alone alone a woody, short-jointed character of growth is to be obtained, will result in masses of delicately-tinted bloom in the early spring, whose beauty will vie with almost any other decorative conservatory plant at tliat season. The following are descriptions of some of the more popular speoiea in general cultivation : — Gibraltar Candytuft (Iberis gibraltarica) . — This kind has hitherto been but very rarely cultivated ; indeed, it was lost to onr gardens till recently sent from Gaernsey by Mr. Wolsoy, who found it in some cottage garden there. It is larger in all its parts than the other cultivated kinds, has oblong, spoon-shnped leaves, nearly 2 in. long by i in. or more wide, and distinctly toothed ; the large flowers, of delicate lilac tint, being arranged in low close heads, and appear- ing in spring and early summer. It is an ornamental species, but will never rival the well.known white border kinds. As I have before stated, its hardiness is donbtful, and I should advise its being wintered in pits or frames till suSiciently abundant to be tried in the open air, but I am informed that it has stood without injury several severe winters at York. It should be planted on sunny spots on rockwork or banka. A native of the south of Spain ; increased by cuttings, rarely producing seeds in our fickle climate. The Ever-blooming Candytuft (I. semperflorens), an upright- habited shrubby plant, with smooth, entire. margined, slightly fleshy, obtuse-pointed leaves. It produces large dense corymbs of pure white flowers somewhat spasmodically ; hence the appropriateness of its speoiCo name ; though hardy enough to stand our winters when grown at the foot of a south wall or in a very sunny corner of the rockery ; it is not adapted for genetal border culture, but under those favourable conditions it forms a pretty evergreen bush rarely devoid of bloom all the year round. It is a native of Sicily and other Mediterranean islands. There is a pretty variegated form in onltiva- tion, which appears to retain its variegation with much constancy. ^LippleiTient Lo T/ie ffardm, Ofuce- 61, .Soxitliampton Street, Covsnt Garden, Loaioa, W,C IBERIS GIBRALTARICA. Sept. 16, 1876.] T'HB GARDEN. 289 Evergreen Candytuft (I. aempervirens). — This is the common rook or perennial Candytaft of our gardens, as popular as the yellow Alyssum and white Arabis. Half ahrabby, dwarf, spreading, ever- green, and perfectly hardy, it escapes destruction where many herbaceous plants are destroyed ; and as in April and May its neat tnfts of dark green are transformed into masses of snowy-white, its presence has been tolerated longer than many other fine old plants. Occasionally, even in gardens entirely devoted to a few " bedding plants," it may be seen on the margin of a shrubbery border or in some neglected spot. No hardy floWer is more worthy of being uni- versally grown in gardens, from that of the cottage to the largest in the land. Where a very dwarf evergreen edging is required for a shrubbery, or for beds of shrubs, it is one of the most suitable plants known, as on any kind of soil it quickly forms a spreading band almost as low as the lawn-grass, finishing off the plantation very neatly at all times, and changing into dense wreaths of snowy- white flowers around the borders in spring and early summer. When in tolerably good soil, and fully exposed, it forms spreading tufts often nearly 1 ft. high, and they last for many years. Like all its relatives, it should be exposed to the full sun rather than shaded, if the best result be sought. A native of Greece, Asia Minor, Italy, Southern France, and Dalmatia, and readily increased by seeds or cuttings. The more common garden name for this species is I. saxatilis ; which is the most correct I hesitate to say, as there ia great difficulty in correctly referring the species of this genus to the original short descriptions given in De CandoUe's "Prodronua." I. Garrexiana is a variety of the Evergreen Iberia, not sufficiently distinct to be worthy of cultivation ; in fact, it and several other Iberisea prove to be mere varieties, and very slight ones, of I. sem- pervirens, when grown side by side ; it however seeds more abun. dantly, and ia less spreading in habit. Coris-leaved Candytuft (I. corifolia). — A very dwarf kind, about half the size of I. aempervirens, attaining a height of only 3 in. or 4 in. when in flower, and perfectly covered with small white blooms early in May. Few Alpine plants are more worthy of general culture, either on rockwork or in the mixed border, for the front rank of which it ia admirably suited. It ia probably a small variety of the Evergreen Candytuft, but for garden purposes it ia distinct enough and remarkably true and constant to its character. A native of Sicily, and probably of other parts of Southern Europe, easily propagated by seeds or cuttings, and thriving in any soil. Correa-leaved Candytuft (I. correEefolia). — This plant has now become very popular in London gardens, and used to go by the name of I. gibraltarica, from which it ia quite distinct. It is readily known from any other cultivated species by its entire and rather large leaves, by its compact heads of large white flowers, and by flowering later than other common white kinds. Both the individual flowers and the corymb are larger and denser than in the other species, and the blooms stand forth more boldly and distinctly from the smooth dark-green leaves. It is an invaluable hardy plant, and par- ticularly useful in consequence of coming into full beauty about the end of May or beginning of June, when the other kinds are fading away. It is indispensable for rockwork, the mixed border, the spring garden, and may alao be naturalised with good effect in bare rooky places. It is particularly well suited for planting on the margins of choice shrubberies, bringing them neatly down to the grasa line, and may also be used aa an edging to beds. Of ita native country we know nothiug ; but it waa raised in, and first sent out from, the botanic garden at Bury St. Bdmunda, and it ia probably a hybrid. Mr. J. G. Baker conaiders it to come nearest to I. Pruiti, of the Nebrode Mountains, in Sicily. Readily increased by cuttings, but appears to loose its true typical character when raised from seed. Tenore's Candytuft (I. Tenoreana).— A neat species, with toothed leaves, and a profusion of white flowers changing to purple. Aa the commonly cultivated kinds are pure white, this will be the more valuable from ita purpliah tone, added to ita neat habit. It, however, has not the perfect hardineas and fine conatitution of the white kinds, and, so far as my experience goes, is very apt to perish on heavy aoila in winter ; but on light sandy soils it will prove a gem, and also for well-drained positions on rockwork. Where rockwork does not exist, it should be placed on raised beds or banks. A native of Naples, and easily raised from seed ; it should be treated aa a biennial. looking Forward.— In the province of Biscay every landowner must plant two saplings for every timber tree he cuts down. In Java the birth of every child is celebrated by planting a fruit tree, which ia carefully tended as the record of the age of the child whose birth it registers. This wise regard for the future deserves imitation. MY DIARY FOR SEVEN YEARS. By W. DENNING. September 18. — Putting 600 pots of Fulmer French Beans into the Strawberry. house ; this crop should last in bearing till Christmas. Sowing a large bed of Radishes close to south wall; shifting some Schizanthus into 60-sized pots ; placing pots of Lilium auratum in the sun to ripen the bulbs after flowering ; moving Azaleas under cover. Planiiiig out Peach trees from pots after breaking their balls; making up failures among Endive. Miscellaneous — Nailing Apricot trees ; syringing Azaleas for thrips with soft soap, 6 oz. to a large potful of water ; looking after thrips on Peach trees and syringing with Quassia chips and soft soap water ; getting all Onions into loft and spreading them out thinly ; digging ground for Cabbages ; putting ridge in pit for late Cucumbers ; earthiog-up sobae late, planted Broccoli, &c. ; giving Cucumbers a little top-dressing ; hoting amongst Spinach, Lettuce, Stooka, and Wallflowers, also among autumn-sown Onions. Sept. 19. — Potting — Pinka and Carnations ; putting cuttings of Calceolarias into a cold pit ; also some Hollyhock cuttings in single pots and placing them in heat, scarcely giving them any water, but leaving on a little air night and day. Planting — Cabbage, early sorts, in rows 6 in. apart. Miscellaneous — Tying up Chrysanthemums, also standard Heliotropes ; beginning to water Orchids in basketa when they require it inatead of syringing them every morning ; no shading, except in the case of Phateoopsis and Lycaste, before ten a.m., or after quarter-past three p.m., leaving air on till four or half- past four p.m.; gathering Magnum Bonum and Green Gage Pluma, alao the Irish Peach and Kerry Pippin. Apples ; Vine wood ripe, therefore fire only used to keep the temperature from sinking below 50' (this applies only to Vineries with fruit hanging in them ; others may sink lower). Sept. SO. — Potting — The Flower of Day Pelargoniuma that were struck in pans ; re-arranging the greenhouse and potting up a few plants of Alyssum for cuttings in spring ; shitting tree Mignonette into larger pots ; putting Dendrobium Devonianum and D. longicornu into more heat to flnish growth, also D. McCarthiss ; these three sorts would do better in heat early in June, as would also D. crassinode and peVhaps D. Bensonise and D. crystallinum, in order to get growth made quickly. Putting in cuttings of Verbena and Gazania in heat, also more Pelargonium cuttings, consisting of Mrs. Pollock, Christine, and Beauty, into boxes set on flues. Miscellaneous — Taking off Strawberry layers for planting ; ayringing Vines for thripa with soft soap and Tobacco- water, i.e., Vines from which the crop is cut; watering Spinach with guano-water for grub; gathering Ribston Pippin Apples ; taking up Garlic, also the most forward Lapstone Kidney Potatoes ; spawning and soiling second Mushroom-bed ; putting soil into a pit in which to plant Tea Roses for button-hole bouquets ; thinning Turnips 6 in. apart ; removing low boughs which overhang walks. Sept. 21. — Finishing up Hyacinth potting ; re-arranging Fern, house ; plantixig spring Cabbages, also Lettuces ; pricking out Cauli. flowers under hand-glasses and close to walls, also in frames ; tying, up scented-leaved Pelargoniums ready for conservatory, alao Endive to blanch ; gathering Apples, and also Bergamot and Marie Louise Pears ; turning Mushroom manure for another bed ; giving Celery a sprinkling of guano, and just enough water to wash it in ; beginning to earth-up main crop of Celery for first time, also latest Celery ; cleaning Asparagus beds; Celosiaa in good condition now, for conservatory decoration. Sept. 23. — Putting Cinerarias into their flowering pota ; potting off some plants of Hnmea elegans ; potting Tulips, also more Roman Hyacinths, others growing satisfactorily ; potting Narcissi and Inter, mediate Stocks ; re-arranging Lycaste-house ; putting Mignonette on front shelf in second Peach-house ; putting first Cinerarias on front shelf in third Peach-house ; shifting latest Balsams ; planting Haut. bois Strawberries, alao Sweet Williams all over pleasure ground by the aides of woodland walks ; plunging Disas in Moss, after being potted in very sandy peat ; tying up July.sown Bath Cos Lettuce; syringing Violets for spider ; gathering some Louise Bonne of Jersey, and sending in Bon Chretien and Beurre d'Amanlis Pears, the latter very good ; gathering Lobelia seed ; making pits ready for Rosea and Violets ; top-dressing early Vine border ; clipping Yew hedge ; clean, ing Strawberry plantation. Sept. 23. — Sowing — Nemophila for baskets, also Sapouaria. Potting — Some Guernsey and Belladonna Lilies, also Crocuses and Snowdrops ; Iris Susiana and Her Majesty Narcissus ; putting Car. nations showing flower under cover; putting Bouvardias into Pri. mula pit to give them a little heat ; putting a few cuttings of Chris, tine Pelargonium in boxes, and placing them on Vinery flue. Plant- ing out August-aown Cabbages, an operation which should have been 290 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 16, 1876, cone on the 6th inst. ; should sow August 5th for thia plaDtitig in the north of England. Miscellaneous — Netting the best Pears and Peaches ; pnt a skeleton frame over French Beans to carry nets to protect tbem from morning frosts ; gathering all Apples and Pears in orchard except " Robins " and Greenings ; Cucumbers never allowed to get above 70° at night by fire-heat. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINES. Liilies in pots of the Lancifolium section, and any plants of Lilium auratum that have flowered late should be set out-of-doors after they have done blooming, in a sunny situation, and sufficiently but not oversvatered, until the leaves have turned yellow and fallen off naturally. The unsatisfactory condition in which these and similar plants are so frequently met with is often traceable to the comparative neglect which they undergo after flowering, through being thrust into any out-of-the-way place, and either prematurely dried off for want of water, or deluged with rain if the weather happens to be wet. The longer the leaves keep fresh and green the stronger the bulbs will be next year. It sometimes happens that odd plants of these Lilies in a collection, through some cause or other, lose their leaves prematurely, even before they have ceased flowering ; if these be marked so as to identify them the following season, it will be seen that, instead of improving in size and strength, they have become weaker. If the plants have not sufficient suste- nance through their being too many in a pot, insufficient light in the early stages of their growth, or not enough water at any time whilst growing, the leaves come thin, and have not strength to remain on the plant the allotted time. Lilies, that have flowered early, and the tops of which are already dead, should be placed where they will not be exposed to drenching rains, or suffer from the opposite extreme, either of which is fatal to the bulbs increasing in size and ability to prod\jce flowers as they ought to do. The Small Boman Hyaciaths that can be had in flower by the beginning of November, and in succession through the early part of the winter, are not grown in sufficient abundance by amateurs. They occupy little room, thriving as they do in 6-in. or 8.in. pots, or in shallow pans, the bulbs being inserted almost as close as Crocuses are usually placed. They will bear forcing well, and are very suitable for room decoration, the flowers being more useful for cutting than those of the large varieties. To have them early the bulbs should be procured at once and potted. Like all bulbs used for similar pur. poses they are much more dependent upon the strength already stored up in them than upon the sustenance which they receive from the material in which they are potted, consequently any ordinary soil will answer, provided it is of a moderately open sandy nature. In potting leave just the crown of the bulbs above the soil, pressing it tolerably firm around them, and treating them afterwards as if they were large varieties, plunging the pots out-of-doors, or in a cold frame in a bed of ashes, which should also cover the tops or tho bulbs 3 in. or 4 in., keeping the soil and plunging material in a sufficiently moist condition to assist the bulbs in making roots and commencing top-growth. Chrysantliemums in pots should now receive their final tying, using sticks enough to support the plants and keep them from being broken by the wind. As soon as the flowers are set thin out the shoots ; it is a mistake, even for ordinary decorative purposes to allow the lateral flowering shoots to remain crowded, as the size of the blooms is thereby much reduced, and in texture they are so much thinner as not to last nearly the length of time they do when no more flowers are left on the plants than they can properly support. When the pots are plunged, or even if standing on the surface of the ground, they will root through the bottom if not moved occasionally ; to prevent this it is a good plan to turn them round once a fortnight' for if the roots be permitted to take much hold of the soil on which they stand they must necessarily be broken when the plants are taken indoors, and ruptures in that way give them a check which causes imperfection in the flowers. The open centres that badly-managed Chrysanthemnma so often exhibit are mainly attributable to the checks which the roots receive, or being allowed to bear too many blooms. Give plenty of mannre-wator now, they will bear it in largo quantities, and stronger than almost any other plants. ruchsias.— Cuttings of these that were put in to strike some weeks ago for flowering early in spring will be now ready for potting off smgly. Pat them in 3. in. or 4-in. pots, according to the quantity of roots they have made. They should have good ordinary loam in which to grow, new if it can be had ; if not, such as has been used during the early part of the season for growing Cucumbers will do. * uohsias do not require quite so much sand in the soil as most quick. growing subjects, but they like it pressed moderately firm in the pots. These summer-struck cuttings are greatly preferable for early floweing to those rooted in the spring, however early they are then put in, but they thrive best when they can be accommodated through the winter with a night temperature of from 45" to 50° ; the latter suits them better than the former. Placed near the glass, they make steady progress, and not only bloom before the old cut-back plants, but are much nicer looking. If the young plants show any disposi- tion to form flowers during the autumn, these must be nipped off as scon as they make their appearance. Keep each plant tied up to a small stick. Fuchsias are so easily struck and easily grown, that the old, naked-stemmed plants so often met with should never be tolerated. Apples and Fears. — As the earlier antumn.ripening varieties come in they should be gathered and placed in the fruit.room. No fixed dates can be determined for gathering any particular kind, as situations and seasons cause such a difference in the time of ripening, but such Pears as Williams' Bon Chretien, it allowed to hang too long on the trees, spoil, becoming dry and mealy; they should be gathered as soon as the stalks will part from the tree with a slight pull. Although these and other varieties of early autumn Pears and Apples cannot be kept long, still the season for each may be pro- lunged by putting a portion in the coolest place available, such as an underground cellar. On the other hand, ripening maybe accelerated by warmth, for which pui-pose nothing answers better than placing the fruit singly on sheets of glass elevated close to the roof in a dry, airy Vinery, where the sun will come upon it; but where this plan is followed there must be a fair amount of air admitted or the fruit will be injured. Amateurs often reap much less benefit from their fruit through keeping it in unsuitable places than they would do were more judgment exercised in storing it. A damp cellar or an over-dry attic are the places too often made to do duty as a fruit-room ; in the former case the quality is always inferior, either Apples or Pears so placed generally having a musty flavour. When the atmosphere is too dry they get shrivelled and insipid, usually coming in before their proper season. A room in which fruit is kept should never be on a second storey, or have any apartment under it, such a situation being almost invariably too dry. There is nothing equal to a room with an earthen floor ; from this there will always arise a slight amount of moisture that will prevent the shrivelling that inevitably takes place more or less when it is boarded or con. creted ; the shelves should be solid (not composed of bars admitting a current of air through them), and covered with clean sweet Wheat- straw; or, still better, where it can be had, dry Fern (the common Bracken), which is not liable to mould with the moisture that is given off by the fruit when first gathered, at which time a little air should be admitted, but not too much. Neither early nor late-keep- ing fruit should be laid thickly in large quantities, but it is not necessary to place it in single layers as is sometimes recommended, the principal thing is to handle it carefully, especially Pears belong- ing to varieties that will keep for some time. Nevertheless, it is no uncommon occurrence to see those engaged in gathering Apples or Pears descend the ladder with an apronful, and shoot the whole out into a basket or other receptacle ; the effects of this are not seen at the time, but almost every fruit is bruised more or less under the skin. Apples are not so easily injured as Pears; all keeping varie- ties of the latter should never be subjected to rougher usage than eggs would bear without danger of breaking them. There is another matter connected with these kinds of fruits which often escapes observation, that is, the liability of the flavour to get injured by being near anything possessing a particular odour, such as strong- smelling herbs, or, still worse, mouldy sti-aw. The flavour also suffers when decayed fruit is allowed to remain in contact with that which is sound. Amateurs will, therefore, do well to frequently look over their stores of Apples and Pears from the time when the}' are firat gathered onwards, carefully removing all that are found to be in any way affected. Kitchen Garden. — Late-sown Turnips should now be well thinned, for if at all overcrowded they make little else than tops. Winter Onions and Carrots that were sown for drawing in spring must also be thinned out, so as to leave them sufficient room ; if this be not attended to in time, especially in the case of Carrots, they never grow to a useful size. Cabbages. — A good piece of ground should be prepared for Cab. bages. It is usual to follow Onions with Cabbages ; if the land occu- pied by them have been well manured it will not require further enriching, but in old gardens a moderate dressingof soot and lime worked in will bo beneficial not only in assisting the growth of the crop, but also in keeping down slugs. In exposed situations where the ground is dry, it is a good plan to make shallow drills with the hoe abont 3 in. deep, drawing the soil up in a slight ridge ; in the bottom plant tho Cab- bages. By this means tho ridges will offer a considerable protection, Seft. 16, 18760 THE GARDEN. 291 keeping them from being so roolced about by the winds through the winter, bat when the land 13 naturally wet it ia not safe to adopt the method. For early, small-growing kinds, :the rows should be 18 in. apart, and the plants 10 in. asunder in the rows, cutting every other Cabbage oat for use as early in the spring as they are at all fit, leaving the others to get bigger. The larger.growiug varieties, such as Enfield Market, should have the rows 2 ft. apart and 12 in. allowed from plant to plant, in their case also cutting each alternate plant out as soon as usable in the spring. Stoves. Now that solar heat is fast decreasing shade should be gradually dispensed with, as it will soon be necessary to admit all the light possible in order to secure the perfect ripening of the young growth made during the summer, without which few plants flower in a satisfactory manner. Atmospheric moisture must likewise be diminished, but not to such an extent as to endanger the plants becoming infested with red spider, or to allow the spread of other insects, such as thrips, to which a dry state of the air is very favour, able. The greatest moderation as regards artificial heat must be observed for the present, or many of the plants will be excited into fresh growth, and the object aimed at — the ripening of the wood so as to secure a free head of bloom— will be entirely defeated. Any winter.flowering stove plants now standing in unheated pits or frames, where they have made their summer's growth, should at once be removed to more congenial quarters, or they will soon suffer at the root and shed a portion of their under foliage, which gives them a shabby appearance. Few conservatories are kept sufficiently warm to render it sate for stove plants to remain in them after this season, but where gentle fires can be used at night with- out injury to the other occupants, such plants as Allamandas, Bougainvilleas, Stephanotis, Dracaenas, Marautas, Bucharis, &c., may with safety be left till the end of the month. To prevent injury to the roots from any sudden decrease of temperature to which the weather is now subject, they should be kept as dry at the roots as they will boar without actually flagging, in which condition, with an atmosphere devoid of much moisture, they will endure a greater amount of cold than they otherwise would do. In cases, however, where their use can be dispensed with for conservatory decoration at this late season, it is advisable not to risk allowing choice specimens to remain too long, for if their roots suffer to any extent it is a difficult matter to get the plants to break again in spring, and, if they do so, it takes a long time to thoroughly set right. Clerodendron Balfourianum and 0. fallax generally seed freely, and plants raised from these become more vigorous and stronger than those propagated from cuttings, more especially is this the case with C. fallax ; as seeds of these will now be ripe they should be sown at once in small pots, and placed in the propa. gating box or other close place to induce them to germinate, after which a light shelf, close to the glass, will be the proper place for them to stand during the winter, in which position they will keep dwarf and stalky. As soon as they require a shift into larger pots, which they will at the turn of the year, a moderately light, well-enriched soil should be afforded them ; this should consist of two parts of fibry loam to one part of old spent manure and well-decomposed leaf-soil in equal proportions, some sharp, clean sand being added to maintain porosity. If large plants be required for show or other purposes this year's stock must be kept ; and in order to get these to break before winter they should be headed back at once, after which, place them in a close, moist heat to give them a start, and then shake out and re-pot them into small pots, again keeping them close and moist until they get hold of the soil, when they should be placed near the glass for the winter. Rivinas grown for autumn and winter decoration should now receive weak manure, water two or three times a week to keep the foliage green and healthy, and assist the plants to swell off the numerous racemes of richly ornamental berries, with which they are always laden when well grown and properly managed. Keep them well np to the glass, fully exposed to all the sun and light it is possible to afford them at this season, otherwise the flowers will not set freely, or the berries assume that brilliancy of colour for which they are so highly prized. The beautiful Thyrsacanthus rutilans, so useful for table decorations during the winter, will soon be sending forth its thread-like flower, stems, which without great care are easily injured just as they are emerging from the axils of the upper leaves. As the plants are very subject to scale, any cleaning which they may require should be done at once, so as to avoid having it to do when they are in a more forward state. Bpiphyllums having now mad& their growth, should be kept a little drier at the roots than hitherto, and set in positions where they oau have full benefit of all the suDshine with which we are favoured ; and where an increase in the way of stock is desired, the present is a good time for putting in cuttings, or for grafting these plants on the Pereskia stock, which is the best and most suitable for the purpose. Worked at about 1 ft. high they soon make useful-sized heads, and are exceed- ingly valuable plants for table decoration, a purpose for which they are well adapted. All that is necessary in order tO'get them to unite is to head back the Pereskia to the requisite height, and slit the top down 1 in. or so, in which to insert the graft. Choose a firm, ripe piece of Bpiphyllum for this purpose, and slice away a small portion of each side, so as to make it wedge-shaped, and then insert it in the slit top of the Pereskia, after which keep it in position, and the air from it by binding a little soft Moss around the points of contact. The plants when thus operated on should be placed in moist heat, where the stock and scion will be found to quickly unite, when the Moss and ligatures should be removed. Cuttings inserted now should be placed singly in small pots in sandy soil, and arranged on shelves near the glass, where they can have stove-heat, and be kept dry till roots are formed. — J. Shbppaed, Woolverstone Park. Orchids. Orchids of all kinds should now be gone over with the view of patting those which have not done well in better order. Those plants which are not well rooted, which are insecure in the pots, or which may be in bad material, should be taken out of their pots, the dead roots carefully removed, and the plants thoroughly cleaned after which they should either be placed in small baskets or re-potted into the smallest pots which will accommodate them in suitable ma- terial. It treated in this way and kept rather dry until they start, any of the plants which have lost their leading growths may yet make others before the end of the year instead of waiting until the next growing season arrives, by which time the plants will have become very weak. In cleaning the plants care should be taken not to strip off unnecessarily the sheaths which adhere to the mature pseudo. bulbs of many of them, such as Cattleyas, Laelias, Dendro- biums, &o. 'These sheaths are designed for a protection to the plants ; by them the pores in the skins of the pseudo. bulbs are shielded from the air, and the plants are thus enabled to withstand changes of temperature which would otherwise act very in j uriously upon them ; unfortunately they answer another purpose not so beneficial to the plants, viz., that of a hiding-place for white scale, and where such is the case the sheath should be turned aside, the scale removed, and the sheath replaced ; or it the scale have overspread the pseudo-bulb, as a last resource the whole of the sheath may be removed, but nothing can warrant the wholesale stripping of the plants, which we too often see practised. The plants should be removed from any of the baskets or blocks which are badly decayed, and supplied with new ones ; although not a good time to re-basket Orchids, it is better where a baskefr is decayed to get rid of it than to retain it, as it will only get worse during the winter, and the fungus from it may probably kill the plant. In all cases of re- potting or basketing Orchids at this season of the year, it should be borne in mind that large pots or baskets are detrimental to the plants during autumn and winter, at which time they are safer in the smallest sizes possible in proportion to the size of the plant. In re-potting an Orchid, avoid using the crocks contained in the pot which the plant formerly occupied ; the same crocks are often thoughtlessly used, and the good sought to be done to the plant by the shift is frustrated j the ill-health of a plant may often be traced to the material in which it is potted ; it the crocks be examined, they will sometimes be found to be covered with a peculiar brown, hair-like fungus; this is very tenacious of life, and very destructive to the roots of the plants, and if the same crocks be used again, in a short lime the fungus re-establishes itself, and the mischief is as bad as ever. Crocks which have been used may be employed again, but not until they have been washed and exposed to the weather tor some time ; but when fungus is observed, the crocks should be thrown on the rubbish heap or otherwise destroyed, and the roots of the plant taken out of the pot in which they were found carefully washed before re-potting. A few well-established plants may probably be found with the material in which they are potted sodden and bad ; this should be carefully removed without injuring the roots, and fresh material substituted. — James O'Brien. Trees and Shrubs. Young plantations, if necessary, should now be thinned, and opera- tions of this kind should always take precedence of mere routine work. Early thinning, or, in other words, the weeding out of the small, weakly, badly-shaped, or unhealthy trees that are enoroachinf on better ones, is a matter which should always have early attention if a healthy crop of timber bo expected. It is a too common practice to put off the thinning of young plantations during their early stages of growth from time to time until the trees are drawn 292 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 16, 1876. np and crowded to such an extent that, when they are eventually thinned, the Budden change in the temperature of the plantation occasioned by allowing a free circulation of air, causes a check in the growth of the trees, and in many cases injures the health of the crop, hastening on premature decay and disease ; and if in an ex. posed situation, in all probability the after.growth will be stunted. A great many of the trees also will be uprooted or blown to one side by strong gales of wind. If young plantations be periodically and systematically thinned as soon as their branches interlace and inter, fere with the free growth of one another, they will sustain no check ; on the contrary, they will be stimulated to renewed vigour and healthy growth. When a plantation has been systematically and judiciously thinned, and the trees have attained a height of upwards of 30 ft., the subsequent thinning will have to be done very cautiously and sparingly, the trees being allowed to grow close enough to draw one another up somewhat, in oi-der to attain lengthy timber. After each successive thinning, the hardwoods will require some attention to pruning, or, more strictly speaking, foreshortening of lateral branches and contending leaders that require restraining, so as to balance the heads of the trees. Stem or close pruning should only be done with the pruning knife when the trees are young in the nursery, preparatory to planting out. The pernicious practice of mutilating trees by amputating live limbs close to the bole is preg. nant with evil results ; it tends to check the growth of even healthy timber ; and although the wound may be overgrown by bark, and to all external appearances the stem looks clean and the timber sound, such is not the case, for when the tree is cut up, a blemish will be found, rendering the timber where the branch was cutoff useless. The injudicious practice of stem-prnning trees after they have acquired the size of timber cannot be too strongly deprecated ; the old adage that " a little knowledge is a dangerous thing" is strictly cipropos in the case of pruning forest trees. It is a common practice on eomo estates to saw off live brauohea close to the stem, with the professed object; of making a clean butt of timber; it is, however, a gross mistake and a delusion to saw off live branches close to the bole, with a view to assist Nature in making clean sound timber. After a live branch has been sawn off larger than an inch or so in diameter, or when the red or heartwood has been fairly formed, the wound and the aftergrowth of woody layers vrill never unite, the knot will remain a piece of dead or decaying wood ; and of course the larger the limb amputated the greater the blemish in the plank when the tree is sawn up. Timber merchants are alive to the injurious practice of lopping branches off trees ; for, whenever they find a tree that has been so treated they pronounce it faulty, and in consequence the value of the timber is lessened. Inspectors of timber for the Government dockyards are very particular not to use trees in which there are dead knots; when inspecting the timber they are generally supplied with an auger to test where dead knots exist, and if any be detected the tree is at once condemned. " Prune not at all," said Lindley, " plant thickly, thin constantly, stop carefully, and leave the rest to Nature."— G. B. Gathering Pears.— During the months of September and Oo. tober the bulk of the Pear crop should be taken from the trees, and should at once be placed in the fruit-room to ripen. Pears are im. proved in quality if ripened in the house under favourable conditions, to wit, darkness, and a cool, dry, and pure atmosphere. Pears are very sensitive to surrounding odours, and if placed in a cellar with vegetables showing signs of decay, their quality is injured. When the seed of the Pear has changed from a light straw colour to a dark brown the fruit may then be gathered, and will ripen without shrivel, ing or rot. Again, when on raising the Pear gently by hand it separates easily from its holding at the end of the stem, it may be gathered with confidence. To pluck Pears rapidly that are advanced toward ripening on the trees reeds a practised eye and no small amount of experience; indeed, in many instances it will be found advisable to go over the same trco three different times in picking, and the additional labour will pay for the extra expense. Pears should aways be takenfrom the tree by hand, andnot shaken off, as is too often the case with careless cultivators. They should then bo cart-fully placed in baskets and taken at once tothefruit-housoor closet, to bo laid away where the light can be excluded, with the same care, to prevent injury from bruising. There they may remain until ready for table use, with an occasional examination to remove decaying specimens. Compared with those ripened on tho trees, their superior excellence will at once be evident. Some assert that the Seckle is one of the exceptions to this rule, but my own experience has not proved this to be tho case. There is quite as much superiority in house. ripened Seokles as there is with those of any other variety. TREES AND SHRUBS. AUTUMN WOODS.* The following is a synopsis of the tints of different trees and shrubs in September and October. Division I. Trees and shrubs that display yellow tints alone, withont a pnrple or red leaf of any shade : Section 1. — Verdure of summer unchanged, or with a slight and sometimes a considerable mixture of yellow leaves before they fall : — Althaea, Bayberry, Clethra, Dutch Myrtle, Elder, Locust, Privet, and Willow. Section 2. — A general mixture of rusty green and yellow ; some- times pure yellow under favourable circumstances. The rust attaches only to dead leaves or to the dead parts of leaves : — Black Walnut, Butternut, Cataloa, Chestnut, Elm, Grape Vine, Hickory, Horse Chestnut, Lime, Plane, and White Birch. Section 3.— Pure yellow of different shades : — Beech, Birch, Honey Locust, Mulberry, Tulip tree, Poplar, and Green Brier. Division II. Trees and shrubs that display all shades of pnrple, red, and yellow ; Section 1. — A predominance of green, with a slight and some, times a considerable mixture of purple, red, and yellow of different shades. All the Rosaceous plants are included in this section or the following one. Individuals of some of these species are occasionally brilliant : — Apple tree, Barberry, Blackberry, Cherry, Hawthorn, Lilac, Missouri Currant, Mountain Ash, Pear tree, Peach tree. Plum tree, Quince tree. Raspberry, River Maple, Rose, and Spiraea. Section 2. — Purple, crimson, and scarlet, with only a small mixture of yellow, if any : — Blueberry, Cornel, Hazel, Poison Ivy, Scarlet Oak, Strawberry tree, Sumach,Viburnum, Virginian Creeper, White Oak, and Whortleberry. Section 3.— Variegated tints, comprising all shades of purple, crimson, scarlet, orange, and yellow on the same tree, or in different trees of the same species. Leaves often striated and sometimes figured like a butterfly's wing : — Mountain Maple, Red Maple, Bock Maple, Poison Dogwood, Smoke Tree, Snowy Mespilna, and Striped Maple. Passing through all shades from a dark chocolate to violet, brown, and salmon : — The Ash. The Buffalo Berry (Shepherdia argentoa). — The Shepherdia is a shrub tree in its natural state, growing from 10 ft. to 15 ft. in height. Its foliage is silvery, or rather doivuy white underneath; its flowers are yellowish, and the fruit, when ripe, bright scarlet. As an ornamental shrub for the foreground of groups it is desirable, and as it bears the shears well it is often used for ornamental edging, perhaps more for its fruit value than otherwise, the fruit being acid and valued for tarts. There are two sexes distinctly shown in the buds, and both have to be grown in association to cause fruiting. A friend of the writer in the " Country Gentleman" suggests to growers of this shrub the engrafting or budding of the staminate upon the pistillate plants. So grown, one shrub or tree would be an ornament in any grounds and of value as regards fruit. Cedrela sinensis. — According to a writer in the " Revne Horticole," the Cedrela sinensis, which was introduced into the Paris Museum some years since, has just begun to bloom in the grounds of that establishment. Its flowers, which are arranged in immense hanging bunches, remind one of those of Koilreuteria panioulata, but they are nearly globular in form and very small. They make up, however, for their size by their number, and by the agreeable odour which they emit. It is probable that this is the first time that this tree has flowered in Europe. This very hardy, rapidly. growing species adapts itself to every kind of soil, and forma a somewhat large tree closely resembling the Ailantus, and, like it, forms a good sub- ject for the plantation of avenues. The Cedrela sinensis has a great advantage in having its flowers delicately scented, which is not the case with the Ailantus. The Double Rose-coloured Bramble In the Flower Garden,— This is well worth prowiuff an a pillar ptnnt, or to screen any unaiiyhtly object during siimmor. It Rrowa rBpidly. The leaves are a beautiful dark Rrcen, and tho flowers, which are produced in largo trusses, resemblo double rose-culonred Daisies, but are of a more delicate colour. In the wiUl garden this Bramble would be charming, and also in any fihrubbory or bank, where it could be allowed to ramble freely. — S. • From Wilson Flagg's " Woods and By-waye of Now England." Sept. 16, 1876.] ] THE GARDEN. 293 TRANSPLANTING TREES IN FULL LEAP. Theke are some good oaltivatora who ooneider August and Septem. ber the safest months in the year for transplanting. I am inclined to thint that early autumn is a very good time, especially for subjects like the Holly, which it is exceedingly risky to meddle with later in the season. This season, however, the weather has been much too dry for transplanting successfully, but where water is easily pro- curable, even the drought need be no obstacle. The worst thing about moving trees or shrubs with balls in dry weather is that the soil is crumbly and falls away from the roots, unless it is of a tena. cions character; but this evil may be overcome by following a plan described in an American paper, Downing'a " Horticulturist," and which is worth summarising here. The plan was first adopted by a Mr. Perkins, who moved a great number of trees in full leaf, and in some cases with the fruit upon them, during the hottest and driest season of the year, with perfect success. The trees (Pears, Peaches, and Apricots, &o.), he states, never stopped growing, bat made con. siderable growth the same season. His practice was to cut a narrow trench, some 4 in. or 5 in. wide, and as deep as the roots, round the tree, and fill it with water, and keep it filled till the soil about the roots was thoroughly soaked. This solidified the soil, and lifting could then be performed, it is said, " with complete success." Mr. Perkins states that he lifted seventy-six trees in this way during the summer and autumn, and all but six of that number succeeded perfectly. I never had occasion to adopt the plan on an extensive scale ; but, judging from my own experience, I quite believe al that Is here claimed for it. Of course, the great thing in lifting trees or shrubs at any season is to secure a good ball of soil, par. ticularly with straggling rooted subjects, as most kinds o f deciduous trees are. Next, there should never b e any hurry in doing the work, as is often the case when the work is entrusted to careless work, men. First of all, a good trench, as deef as the main body of the roots go, should be taken out quite round the tree, 3 ft. to 15 ft. from the bole, according to the size of the tree. This gives room to work freely round the roots with forks, and space to put aside the soil as it is removed, until the ball is reduced to portable dimensions. With regard to transplanting machines, there are many, all of them suited more or less for the purpose, and some of them rather expensive. I have lifted trees at all seasons of the year, up to the age of thirty years, and have never used anything bat a mason's drag, as it is called, and I would not desire anything better. Most people know that this drag is used by masons for moving heavy stones about. It may be described as a stout platform of wood, 3 ft. or 4 ft. square, set upon low broad-tired wheels, with a stout pole in front, by which it is dragged along, and which can be used as a powerful lever in loading. In lifting a tree with it the soil is scooped out on one side of the hole, to allow the ball to be tilted back, which is easily done, and, a road having been made for the drag on the opposite side, it is backed in and let down close to and under the ball ; a rope is then run round the neck of the tree and fastened to the pole in front, and with a man or two behind to lift, and others at the pole to work the lever, the tree is lifted out of the hole at once without the slightest damage, conveyed to its destination, and let into the pit prepared for it in the same easy and expeditious naanner. Very tall trees must of course be kept erect when on the journey, by guide ropes attached to the stem at proper distances from the top. In the woods here a still more simple and less expensive contrivance, which may be put together by a common labourer in a few hours, is employed. This is simply a flat wooden sledge, in shape like a hand-barrow, only that the stout trams on which the loads rest are bsvelled away at the ends like the rockers of a cradle, in order to admit of the sledge being slipped under the ball of the tree when it is ready for moving. A horse is then yoked to it at one end, and away it goes. Many hundreds of trees have been transported successfully on this machine daring the last two years. Chef. The Catalpa as a Timber Tree. — This, according to Lan. dreth's ** Raral Register," has been long known to a limited number to possess wood of au enduring quality for posts — as lasting, it is claimed, as the Blacker Yellow Locust (Robinia Pseud-acacia) — but, fortunately unlike it, exempt from insect attack ; indeed, so far as our observation has extended, it is not at all liable to disease, and as the tree grows readily from seed there need be no impediment in propagating it to any extent desired. Fence-rows, boundaries, lanes, the roadside, useless plots of ground, inaccessible knolls, might each be seized upon for planting this useful and ornamental tree. [This tree thrives admirably in an impure atmosphere, as is proved by the existence of many good specimens in London which flower abundantly.] Flowers and Fruit o£ the Sacred Bean (Nelumbium speoiosam) THE SACRED BEAN. (nelttmbium bpeciosum.) This is one of the most beautiful of all stove or warm-liouse aquatics, the Water Lilies t h e m s e Ives not excepted, and it is also expressly in- teresting on account of the as sooiations with which it is surrounded. It is distri- bu t e d all through China, Japan, India, the Ma- lay Archipel- ago, the Phi- lippines, Per- sia, Australia, and the Cas- pian Sea. At one time it might have been found plentifully in Egypt, but it is now nowhere to be seen in the Nile, though representations of it exist among the ruins of the maguifioent old temples where it was formerly held in so mach veneration. It has great plate-like leaves, which measure afoot or more across, aud they are borne on long slender stalks, which elevate them 2 or 3 ft. above the water iu which they grow. Its great rosy-petaled flowers are also produced singly at the apices of long slender stalks, and are from 4 to 6 in. iu diameter. Apart from its interest and beauty the plant is of some economic value, its fleshy root-stock and seeds being eaten as food by the natives of Australia, as well as by the Hindoos and Chinese. This Nelumbium is mentioned by Sfcrabo, Theophrastus, and Herodotus, the last of whom com- pared its receptacle or seed-vessel to a wasps' nest, a com- parison by no means inapt. Treated as a stove aquatic, the plant is easily managed, and it flowers freely evei-y year in the stove tropical aqaariums at Kew, Ohatsworth, and many other gardens. Soap-root. — A large commerce is carried on from California in a fibrons substance kaown as Soap-root. It is obtained from a Lily-like plant, a species of Phatangiuca (Ghlorogalum) pomeri4ianiim, which is to be found upon the mountains, and attains a height of 8 ft. The heavy bulb is covered with many coatings, consisting of fibres, which are used for cushions, mattresses, &c. Large contracts are entered into for the supply of this material on a very extensive scale. The inner part of the bulb serves as a substitute for soap, and it might be tried whether it can be utilised for teohnological purposes like the root of Saponaria. 294 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 16, 1876. GARDEN RECEIPTS. Glue and Flower Gum. Flower Gum may be made by pounding while Shellac very fine, and mixing it -svith methylated spirit in a stone jar to a proper consistency, well shaking it up for half-an-hour, and placing it by the side of a fire to keep the bottle warm, and occasionally shaking it for about a day. Pure spirits of wine may be used, as it does not smell so strongly as that mixed with wood-naphtha. The former does not smell after it is dry, and is much cheaper than the others. The gum may be kept in any cool place and taken out as it is wanted, leaving the camel-hair brush in the gum. In gumming never fill tlie brush too full, and the petals should be gummed close to the tube. Gum for fastening specimens on paper in herbaria may be made as follows : — Take two parts of Gum Arabic and one of brown sugar, and dissolve them in water to the consistency of cream. This mixture will be found far preferable to Gum Arabic alone. At the British Museum and Kew Gardens they use a mixture of Gum Arabic and Gum Tragacanth for this purpose. DAMP-PROor Glue for fastening labels on preserve bottles may be made by macerating 5 parts of good glue in 18 to 20 parts of water for a day, and to the liquid add 9 parts of sugar-candy and 3 parts of Gum Arabic. The mixture can be brushed upon paper while lukewarm ; it keeps well, does not stick together, and when moistened adheres firmly to bottles. For the labels to be used in places subject to damp, it is well to prepare a paste of good flour and glue, to which linseed oil, varnish, and turpentine have been added, in the proportion of i oz. each to the pound. Labels prepared in the latter way do not fall off in damp places. Liquid Gltje may be prepared by dissolving 2 lbs. of the best pale glue in 1 quart of water in a covered vessel, placed in a water bath ; when cool, add to it 7 oz. of commercial nitric acid ; when cold put into bottles. This glue is very strong, and does not gelatinize in the cold. Marine glue is best bought ready prepared. It may be made as follows : — India rubber out intosmallpieoes witha wet knife, 1 oz., coal-tar naphtha (benzoli) 12 oz. Digest in a close vessel, shaking it frequently, to help the solution. When the rubber is dissolved, add 20 oz. of best Shellac, and continue the heat and stirring until perfect lique- faction has taken place, and pour the fused mass, while yet hot, on slabs of polished metal, marble, or stone. For use, it should be heated to its melting point, and applied with a brush very quickly. The thinnest possible coating should be used. Where large surfaces of wood are to be united, a thin piece of muslin should be interposed. Gooseberry Caterpillar. The locust-like appetite of this Caterpillar renders it most destructive to this useful fruit. As soon as they are observed means should at once be taken for their destruction, for if allowed to remain on the trees for only a few days, in addition to the injury they do, they are much more difficult to deal with. For some days after they first come to life they are comparatively tender and easy to kill. Anything of a dry, dusty nature they dislike; even dry road dust will render the leaves unpalatable to them, and cause them to drop off, but unless they are killed whilst on the ground they quickly crawl up the trees again. Elder Leaves. — Boil a quantity of Elder leaves in as much water as will cover them until the liquid becomes quite black, then strain and cool it, and to every gallon of this liquid add 1 gallon of Tobacco-water. When the trees are quite dry apply it with a fine-rosed watering-pot, and in a few minutes the Caterpillars will fall off dead. Faxijlove Leaves. — Take a quantity of the stalks and leaves of the common Foxglove, bruise them, and throw them into a copper of boiling water, and let them simmer all night. The next morning the liquid will be the colour of porter. Its strength can bo reduced by adding water. Strain through muslin or fine netting, and syringe with a very fine rose, if possible letting the liquid fall on the trees like dew. If no copper be handy, use a water-barrow ; pour scalding water on the Foxglove, and cover up with sacks or mats. Hellebore. — Take 1 oz. of Hellebore powder and 2 oz. of powdered alum ; mix them thoroughly in a small quantity of water, and then add a gallon of water. Apply the mixture to the bu.=!hes affected, either by wetting them with a syringe or water-pot on the upper surface of the leaves ; the Caterpillars will drop off soon after feeding upon the poisoned leaves. Hellebore powder will destroy these pests if dusted on them dry, but it cannot in this way be applied so regularly as when diluted. The principal use of the alum is to cause it to adhere to the leaves. One gallon is sufficient for from ten to twelve full-sized bushes ; it is, therefore, by no means an expensive remedy. Many excellent authorities advocate the use of dry Hellebore powder, applied by means of a simple form of dredger made for the purpose. It consists of a cylinder of perforated tin 2i in. in diameter, and 10 in. long; this has a fixed bottom, with a socket to receive the end of a handle of convenient length, and a brace to strengthen the socket; the cover fits sufficiently close to keep its place while in use. Any one living at a distance from a tinsmith could readily make a duster of this kind out of any old canister, and a wooden cover would answer as well as a tin one : care should be taken to get the Hellebore fresh, otherwise it is ineffectual. Helle- bore is best applied when the leaves are wet, as, when dry, large portions of it get wasted. If obliged to applj^ the pow- der in dry weather, it is best to water the bushes first. A mixture of powdered white Hellebore and whitening may also be applied to the trees with an ordinary flour dredger, first thoroughly wetting the whole of the tree with the syringe to cause the powder to stick. The Hellebore, which should be freshly ground, as it loses its eiEcacy if kept long, is to be used in the proportion of 1 lb. to 6 lbs. of whitening, ground fine, and well mixed together ; this will destroy every Caterpillar in a few days, even if they have grown large and strong. Helle- bore being a poison, care must be taken that the whole is washed thoroughly off with the syringe or garden engine after the Caterpillars are killed. Lime. — Air-slaked lime, if applied to the Caterpillars whilst they ai'e young, will destroy them, but the trees should be examined shortly afterwards to see that none have escaped, more especially in rainy weather. In the winter, when the trees are at rest, put a spadeful of lime on the surface of the soil under each tree, spreading it out from the collar under the branches. This will kill the larvaj, which at this season are lying dormant under the soil, to which they have descended from the branches, after having completed the length of time they were destined by Nature to remain above ground, and from whence, if not destroyed, they will emerge and take wing, when the females will deposit their eggs on the trees,' which in due course will hatch into Caterpillars. Soot is said to be an excellent preventive if used in time- The best way to apply it is to lay a ring of soot on the ground round every Gooseberry tree close to the stem, and to the width of about 6 in. or 8 in. all round it. Sulphide of Potassium. — Another excellent remedy is a dilute solution (one part in 500) of sulphide of potassium, the infected tree being sprinkled with this substance by means of a small hand syringe. This method has been successfully used on a large scale in Southern France. Tobacco Poivder. — Tobacco powder dredged over the bushes night and morning is as good a remedy as anything ; while if the earth be trodden firmly down round the stems, the grubs will be unable to descend into it, and will become a more easy prey to their natural enemies. Glass-cutting. The following is an easy way of cutting glass bottles, car- boys, &e., into handlights : — Pass five or six parts of coarse packing twine round the bottle on each side of where you want it divided, so as to form a groove about an eighth of an inch wide ; in this groove pass one turn of a piece of hard-laid white line, and extend the two ends, and make them fast to some support ; then have a tub of cold water close to, and grasping the bottle by the neck with one hand, and the bottom with another, saw the bottle backwards and forwards for a short time; quickly you will soon smell heat from the bottle, caused by the friction of the hard cord. When after about one Sept. 16, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 295 minute's friction, by a side motion o£ the bottle, throw it out of the line in the water, and then a tap against the side of the tub, the bottom will drop oS. Carboys can be cut as easily, but, being larger, they require two persons to see-saw them backwards and forwards. The line of twine to form the groove must be put on quite tight, and then wetted to tighten more, so as not to shift ; but let the groove and stout cord be dry. The cutting cord should not be less than an eighth of an inch thick, and the edge of the glass, after cutting, should be rubbed on a grindstone, as it is very sharp. Another method of cutting glass vessels neatly is to heat a rod of iron to redness, and having filled the vessel the exact height you wish it to be cut with oil of auy kind, pro- ceed very gradually to dip the red-hot iron into the oil, which, heating all along the surface, the glass suddenly chips and cracks all round, when you can lift ofi the upper portion clean by the surface of the oil. The bottoms of carboys and bottles can be cut off by making a slight nick with a file and then marking round with a streak of ink or water colour where you want it to come oS. Make an iron red-hot and lay it on the nick. This will cause it to expand and crack, then by moving the rod round the crack will follow. When the carboys are rather large, it is better to have two rods heated, or while you are reheating the iron, the crack might take a transverse direction. Grafting-clay, or Onguent de St. Fiacre. This primitive composition consists of 2 parts of clay and 1 part of cow manure. It is held on the graft by means of pack- thread or a piece of rag, and presents the form of an oblong bark. Some persons put a strip of bark between the cut and the composition to prevent the latter from penetrating into the clefts. Others mix finely-chopped hay or Grass with it to give it more consistency. Two thousand years ago authors recommended the covering of the " kneaded luting and glue of the graft " either with a Borage leaf or with Moss. Grafting- clay is much used in many country places, and is an econo- mical composition, especially for the grafting of all sorts of old trees. Grafting-wax. In grafting it is necessary to cover the wounds and cuts with an unctuous composition which will not have the effect of drying up or burning the wound, nor of running or cracking under the action of the air or from being badly made. This must be applied copiously and without stint to the wounds and clefts of both stock and scion when the graft is fixed in position. A well-executed graft may fail in consequence of the bad quality of the wax. Those modes of grafting in which no cut surface is exposed to the air, bud-grafting for instance, do not require any application of this kind. The composition of grafting wax Yaries greatly, every grower having his own par- ticular recipe, which he considers superior to all others. The base is usually Burgundy pitch, black pitch, bees'-wax, suet, and resin. To these ingredients some add ochre, hog's lard, flowers of sulphur, Venice turpentine, or sifted cinders. All are melted together over the fire in an iron pot, and the composition should be allowed to cool before it is used. Prac- tice makes it easy to judge of the proper proportions of the ingredients ; the pitch tends to thicken the composition, the suet to make it lighter, the resin imparts dryness to it, and the bees'-wax gives it oiliness. The following mixture is in high repute at the establishments of MM. Andre Leroy, of Angers, and Baltet Freres, of Troyes : — First, melt together, resin 2 lb. 12 oz., Burgundy pitch 1 lb. 11 oz. ; at the same time melt separately, suet 9 oz. Pour the suet, when thoroughly melted, into the first mixture, stirring it well while doing so ; then add 18 oz. of red ochre, dropping it in gradu- ally in small portions, and stirring the whole up for a good while. Whatever composition may be used it should always be unctuous, easily worked, and free from acridity, and is best applied lukewarm, rather cool than hot, and when of a con- sistency approaching the liquid rather than the solid. It is brought into this condition with the help of a small portable stove, heated like a warm bath, or with a spirit-lamp, or by any of the common methods. It is applied with a small paint- brush, or a stick with a rag wrapped round the end, or, better still, with a wooden spatula. The warm mastic is an economical kind for large operations, and is preferable to the cold mastic for autumn grafting, as the frost has been found to have less effect upon it. The following is a simple recipe : — Melt toge- ther in a kettle 1 lb. of tallow and 1 lb. of bees'-wax, then 4 lbs. of resin ; when melted pour it into a pail of water and pull it till well mixed. Another good mixture is made of 3 parts of resin, 3 of bees'-wax, and 2 of tallow ; but it is cheaper to use more resin, and a common mixture consists of 4 of resin, 2 of tallow, and 1 of bees'-wax. The resin causes this to adhere a good deal to the hands. The inconveniences that always attend the use of warm compositions, and the trouble of making them, have brought very much into fashion cold mastics, which soften under the heat of the hands, or remain unctuous from the nature of_their composition. Up to the present time no cold mastic can com- pete with that of M. Lhomme-Lefort, manufactured by his son at Belleville, Paris. This mastic is sold in tin boxes, in which it preserves its pliability, even after the box is opened. It is spread on the graft with a spatula, and should it bo necessary to touch it with the fingers, these should first be wetted. Once exposed to the air, it hardens a little. It does not crack with frost nor run in hot weather, and is the best composition that can be used. We have seen in Germany a cold composi- tion invented by M. Lucas, pomologist. This is made of Bur- gundy pitch melted over a slow fire. Into this is poured the third of its weight of alcohol of 90°, stirring the mixture con- stantly with a stick. The only drawback with cold mastics is that they do not harden sufiiciently in winter when they are applied in autumn : then the frost, having an advantage over a soft substance, can reach the tissues of the tree thus insuffi- ciently protected. The following is a receipt for making Lefort's Liquid Grafting Wax, which is highly commended in France, where it was invented, and until lately kept secret. Melt 1 lb. of common resin over a gentle fire. Add to it 1 oz. of beef tallow and stir it well. Take it from the fire, let it cool down a little, and then mix 8 oz. of alcohol. The alcohol cools it down so rapidly that it will be necessary to put it again on the fire, stirring it constantly. Still the utmost care must be exercised to keep the alcohol from getting inflamed. To avoid it, the best way is to remove the vessel from the fire when the lump that may have been formed commences melting again. This must be continued till this is a homogeneous mass, similar to honey. After a few days' exposure to the atmosphere it assumes a whitish colour, and becomes as hard as stone, being impervious to water or air. Herbarium Insects. Most Herbariums are infested with the larvse of the Der- mestes and other beetles which, if not checked, speedily reduce the specimens to a few pinches of dust. Various remedies have been tried, the most efficacious being corrosive sublimate and camphor. Some persons are in the habit of applying a solution of corrosive sublimate for the purpose of washing over their plants when mounted, and so preventing the develop- ment of animal life. The solution in use at the Kew Herbarium is composed of 1 lb. of corrosive sublimate and the same quantity of carbolic acid to four gallons of methylated spirit; this fulfils the purpose for which it is intended very well, but is somewhat disagreeable to use. At the British Museum it is found that the presence of camphor, fi'equently renewed in each cabinet, is sufficient to prevent the attacks of insects. It will soon be discovered that some plants, such, for example, as the UmbelliferBB and Grossulariacese, are peculiarly liable to such attacks ; and these orders must be inspected from time to time, so that any insect ravages may at once be checked. Dr. Rothrock, an American botanist, dissolves If oz. of corrosive sublimate in one pint of alcohol, to which he adds two and a-half fluid drams of carbolic acid, and applies the whole by means of a paint-brush. His own collection of 15,000 plants was treated with this preparation five years ago, since which time not a single insect has made its appearance. Damp is to be avoided in the situation of the Herbarium, as it favours the development not only of insects, but of mould, and renders the specimens rotten. 296 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 16, 1876. House Flies. One of the most effective Ply poisons is made by dissolving 1 draehm of white arseniu in 1 pint of hot water. When cold sweeten the solution with brown sugar, treacle, or honey. The above is a dangerous composition, and should never be used where children or domestic animals can have access to it. The following are quite safe, but not so killing ; — Quassia chips, ^ oz. ; water, 1 pint ; boil for ten minutes, and add 4 oz. of treacle. Flies will drink this with avidity, and are soon de- stroyed by it. Another good mixture is made by adding a teaspoonful of finely-powdered black pepper and two teaspoon- fuls of brown sugar to four teaspoonfuls of cream. It is a fact not generally known that Flies will not pass through a netting made of fine silk wire, although the meshes are many times larger than the body of the Fly, except there is a window behind it. The cafes in Eome and iSTaples are kept quite free of Flies in the summer by means of such a netting bung before the door. White tape dipped in sugar and water, say 2 oz. to the pint, and suspended in festoons from the ceiling, make an excellent Fly-trap, and is almost better than Fly poisons, for it generally happens that every Fly that is killed has half a dozen relations, who come from outside to weep over his corpse. Papier moure is bibulous paper, soaked in a solution of cyanide of potassium. This is also a dangerous preparation. InReets in General. Although the principal insect-pests which trouble the farmer and gardener are treated of under their particular headings, it may be useful to say a few words on insects generally, and the best means of destroying them. Preventive measures are after all said and done, the best weapons in the gardener's armoury. Towards the beginning of the month of February, or even earlier if the winter be a mild one, in order to prevent future mischief and assure the gardener that anything he does in the early part of the year is like nipping a disease in the bud, and a hundred times more valuable than anything he can do at a later period when his enemies, if more apparent, are more numerous and more rampant. In digging, he will meet occasionally with brown, long, barrel-shaped chrysalids in the earth, from J in. to 1 in. in length. These he may safely treat as enemies. It will also repay him well to turn up with a fork the earth and Moss at the roots of any trees in the neighbourhood of the garden in quest of chrysalids. Let him also search in outhouses and sheltered corners for those chrysalids which do not hybernate in the ground. We strongly advise the young gardener to put any he may find aside in a place where he can see them come out, not so much to make him an adept in entomology, but that he may learn at least the principal forms that come out of the different chrysalids. If he pin a sample or two neatly and puts them away in a box or drawer it will do him no harm, and the knowledge he thus acquires will not be thrown away. In the chinks of trees — especially fruit trees — many nascent evils now lie hidden in the form of eggs, and in orchards where fruit suffers much from that kind of vermin this is the time to go over the branches with a nail-brush and Gishurst soap and water. There is a capital kind of nail-brush now made of Palm fibre (3d. each), strong and durable, which the gardener would do well to provide himself with. In the early part of the year, too, he ought to look over his fruit and other trees for indications of the various blights, and many a hidden foe may be discovered by cutting across a suspicious-looking twig or branchlet, when the beautiful yellow-spotted caterpillar of the leopard moth, the large claret-coloured caterpillar of the goat moth, &o., may be met with in their wonderful tunnels. With regard to insects in stoves and greenhouses there seems great reason to believe that insect and parasitical attacks are, with a few exceptions, a consequence of ill-health arising from some other cause ; keep up the vital energy, therefore, by thorough ventilation, full exposure to light, a moderate tem- perature, judicious watering and mulching, and you will effect more than all the scrubbing and painting in the world. Amongst the natural checks to the increase of insects, birds of all kinds must bo placed foremost ; the gun should therefore be used with moderation. Chickens, ducks, and seagulls have been allowed to run loose in orchards and gardens with excel- lent effects. The common toad, too, is a voracioua feeder on insects, as well as snakes, wasps, and spiders. One of the most potent natural enemies of insects is the dried and pow- dered flower-heads of the Pyrethrum roseum and P. carneum, sold under the name of Persian Insect Powder, Insecticide Vicat, Dumont's Insect Powder, &c. The specific property lies in the pollen, and it is according to the proportionate amount of it that may be in the powder that it is more or less effective. The manner of using it is to scatter the powder about the roots and over the leaves of the plants affected. It has the effect of causing the insects to fall down as if dead or asleep, even bees and wasps succumbing under its action ; the larger insects, however, by-and-by recover as if coming out of a swoon, the smaller never come out of it. The commercial insect powder is very liable to failure, being adulterated with sawdust or the dried and powdered flowers of some of the Anthemidie, but a powder prepared as follows from the Pyre- thrum roseum is most effective against moths, fleas, bed bugs, and poultry vermin, and other insect plagues. Seeds of the Pyrethrum, which are obtainable from large seed dealers, are to be sown in May, not too thickly, in a well-cultivated bed, and if the weeds be kept down will develop into strong plants by the autumn, although they seldom bloom before the next May or June. The flowers are to be plucked as they become fully developed, and the yellow disc-flowers separated from the red ray-florets, thoroughly dried in the shade, and finely pul- verised. Flowers can be plucked even in the autumn, so that a few plants will produce a considerable quantity of the powder. As the plant is perennial it can be propagated by division, and since it is indigenous to the Caucasus, it is not damaged by a low winter temperature. There are other powders which ar.^ -Iso destructive to insects, but not to the same extent as P. earn . n.i and P. roseum. The true kind made from P. roseum or P. carneum is rarely to be met with at all. It is not difficult to distinguish between powder made from these species and powder made of other Anthemid», provided they are both genuine, and composed of the pollen'in which the virtue chiefly resides. Under the microscope the pollen spores of Pyrethrum roseum, for example, have needle-like projections, while those of the Anthemidas have been rounded. But the fact is, in the majority of samples no spores of pollen are to be seen at all. Mr. Andrew Murray has examined a number for the purpose of endeavouring to determine from what species the powder has been manufactured, but he failed in discovering it. In no instance did he find any pollen at all — nothing but broken fragments of epidermis, of leaf, flower, or branch. Another test is the scent. Good powder has no scent, and the colour should be a dull, dirty drab. Poke Root (Phytolacca decandra) is also destructive to insects. Dr. P. C. Eenner, of Frederick County, Maryland, writes to the Department of Agriculture at Washington, that several years ago he collected some Poke Hoot for medicinal purposes, and placed it in various parts of the house to dry. After several days he observed that there were many Cockroaches lying dead, and upon examination he found they had par- taken freely of the Poke Root. Some of the Root was placed near their laaunts, and the result was that it rid the premises of those insects. Since then he has communicated the remedy to others, who have tested it with satisfactorj' results. According to M. Charles Baltet, the celebrated fruit- grower of Troyes, the Eucalyptus is a inost efficient insecti- fuge. In a letter to the "Illustration Horticole" M. Baltet says : — " Lately my brother-in-law. Captain Mignard, being very much disturbed in his sleep by ^losquitoes, took it into his head to place a young plant of Eucalyptus in his bed-room over night. From that moment the insects disappeared, and he slept in comfort. I have been following his example with the same result. Should this really prove generally efficacious, our southern provinces will be freed of one scourge. People will use young plants of Eucalyptus instead of Mosquito cur- tains." A few Tomato plants trained across the windows will also have the same effect. Onion Ply. Many remedies for the Onion Fly (Anthomia ceparum) have been suggested and tried with various success. Curtis men- tions the following, viz. ; — Dressing the beds with nitrate of soda, covering them with a layer of J in. of charcoal, mixing iSsPT. 16, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 297 it with the earth before the seed is sown ; spreading or sprinkling with coal-dust, lime, soot, salt, or watering them with a strong decoction of Worm-wood, soap-suds, &c. These do not seem to have done much good. Mr. Knowles has tried most of them without effect. Rolling where the soil is light has been recommended ; such a soil seems to be more favour- able to the development of the Fly than that of a stiiJ, clayey nature, through which it is more difficult for the mature insect to make its escape on emerging from the pupa ; and that many must perish in soil of this description is obvious from the fact that numbers of pupae have been found imbedded in the clay several inches underground, from which it would have undoubtedly been impossible for the Fly to get out nnder ordinary circumstances. Curtis speaks of pulling up the aSectod bulbs, whose state is first shown by the yellow droop- ing leaves, and destroying them at once, to prevent further damage, as one of the most effectual cures, as it is hopeless to think of saving the Onion when the grub has established itself in it. The course recommended by Mr. Andrew Murray is for the cultivator, at the time when the Fly appears in April or May, to keep a very sharp look-out and to destroy the first brood, which is his only chance. Let him pass his hands gently over the leaves, and if he find any eggs, let him remove them or crush them gently by hand. If he watch at the right time, it is only a week or ten days' daily examination. It is, perhaps, impossible so to watch on very large crops, although even then, where it has once been found that the eggs are being laid, we think it would be money well laid out to employ many female hands to go gently over the leaves and draw oS or squeeze the eggs. M'Intosh recommended that before sowing the ground should be watered with the fol- lowing mixture ; — To 20 gallons of rain-water add 1 peck of unslaked lime, ^ peck of soot that has not been exposed to moisture, 2 gallons of urine, 1 lb. of soft soap, and 2 lb. of flowers of sulphur. When the mixture has settled sufficiently to pass through the rose of a watering-pot, it may be applied. It has also been recommended to sow Onions on ground pre- viously occupied by Turnips as a preventive of this pest. Nitrate of soda is not only to kill the grub but to improve the crop. It should be used in the proportion of about 4 cwt. to the acre, and not more than two or three times a season. In using the nitrate of soda, it is necessary that the foliage of the Onions be dry, as to let it drop on the plants when they are wet causes a burnt or shrivelled place wherever it touches them. It is a good plan to water after sowing it, or to select a time when a shower may be expected when going to use it. Make some strong lime-water, and add to it as much soot as will make it into a thin paint, and with this water the crop the moment the maggot appears. This soot mixture is so stimu- lating a manure, that it should always be used to increase the weight of the crop. House-slops mixed with lime and soot would be still more powerful, both to destroy the maggot and improve the plant ; but unless rain followed immediately, it would be advisable to drench the ground with pure water the day after application. Ground intended for a crop of large Onions should be prepared in the autumn, and after being dug over should be watered with a mixture of sulphuric acid and water, made so strong as to burn the tongue. This will destroy every animal in the soil, and the winter rains will wash it away entirely before spring. The Onion is much more subject to the maggot in light soils than in heavy land, especially in old worn-out gardens. Various remedies have been recommended for its destruction, or as a preventive to its spreading ; but nothing appears to be of any use after it once attacks the crop. By a judicious preparation of the soil its attacks are rendered less frequent. In light land, the addition of liberal quantities of new soil, with a good dressing of salt (^ lb. to the square yard), applied as a sur- face-dressing during the autumn or winter, with an inch of soot pointed into the ground before sowing, renders the crop less liable to its ravages. It would appear from the result of careful experiment that the smell of soot is very distasteful to the Onion Fly, and generally prevents it from depositing its eggs ; but, whenever any of these troublesome pests have come to life, the soot-dressing so frequently recommended will not be found a sufficient safeguard against their insidious attacks. Orchid Beetle. There are certain descriptions of Beetles Virhich are most destructive to Orchids. If allowed to get to any considerable head amongst these plants the damage done in absolute value becomes a serious matter. They attack the flower-spikes whilst young and tender, and the young growths ; still worse, so far as weakening the plants, is the destruction of the roots. When we consider the value of many of the rarest of these plants, the necessity of unremitting attention in the destruc- tion of these pests will be apparent. The moment they are disturbed the astonishingly rapid powers of motion possessed by these Beetles is brought into play. Their movements, especially in the night when a light is brought to shine upon them are almost equal to those of a bird. They secrete them- selves amongst the drainage of the pots, in the material in which the plants are growing, when it is dry whilst the plants are at rest, in cracks in the walls where the mortar has become displaced, near the pipes, or in any out-of-the-way place. They increase fast, and when once they gain access to a plant-house are very difficult to thoroughly eradicate. The thick, fleshy roots of Vandas, Aerides, and Sacoolabiams in particular, become a prey to them. They never feed in the daytime, and are rarely seen during the daylight unless disturbed from their haunts ; consequently they may exist in much larger numbers in any place than is supposed. By diligent searching with a lamp after dark some may be caught, but more will make their escape. Small pots containing treacle and water mixed in equal proportions placed about their haunts are sometimes used. By such means some may be caught ; but with means of this description in plant-houses it is difficult to catch them in sufficient numbers to keep them down so low as desirable. To get rid of them entirely Mr. T. Baines recommends Roth & Ringeisen's Beetle Poison, obtainable through any druggist. Labels. Few libels are better than those made of zinc, provided their oily surfaces are carefully cleaned with fine emei-y paper before writing upon them. Their permanency, however, may be very much extended by warming the label after it is written, and rubbing it over with a paraffin candle. This protection to the writing is found to be very effective. It is a good plan to coat the label with white hard spirit varnish, as the photographers do their negatives. The label should be heated till it is just too hot to touch. Muriatic acid may also be used for cleaning the zinc, but emery paper is handier. The following is a good formula for ink for writing on zinc labels : — Take of verdigris and sal ammoniac each 2 drachms, lamp-black 1 drachm, water 4 oz., to be well mixed in a mortar, adding the water gradually. It must be kept in a glass-stoppered vial. Write on the zinc with the ink, after shaking it well, with a quill pen. When once it is dry the writing may be exposed to the weather or buried in the ground for years, and it will be as legible as when first written. — — The following method of preserving wooden labels that are to be used on trees or in exposed places is recommended in a German paper. Thoroughly soak the pieces of wood in a strong solution of copperas (sulphate of iron), then lay them, after they are dry, in lime water. This causes the formation of sulphate of lime, a very insoluble salt (gypsum) in the wood. The rapid destruction of labels by the weather is thus prevented. Bast, mats, twine, and other substances iised in tying up or covering trees and plants, when treated in the same manner, are similarly preserved. At a recent meeting of a horticultural society in Beilin, wooden labels thus treated were shown which had been constantly exposed to the weather during two years without being affected thereby. ■ Excellent labels for trees and shrubs may also be made by stamping the name on pieces of soft sheet-lead. If firmly fastened to the tree when planted they will last for an indefinite period, and, practically speaking, they are indestructible. A method of marking labels invented by Mr. Green, late gardener to Mr. Wilson Saunders at Reigate, has much to recommend it. A small T-shaped cast-iron label is used. It is first painted white, and allowed to dry thoroughly, and then painted black. When the black paint has skinned over, the name of the plant is written with a fine but round-pointed bit of iron, thus exposing the white surface below. In this way 298 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 16, 1876. effective lettering is produced, and the labels being black are not at all so offensive to the eye as whitened ones. Mealy Bug. Mealy Bug (Coci?us adonidum) is one of the worst enemies ■with which the cultivator of stove plants has to wage a war- fare. It multiplies so rapidly, and is so tenacious of life, that unless the utmost vigilance be exercised and remedial measures resorted to, it will soon spread over a house of plants, and do considerable injury. The Mealy Bug resembles small tufts of white cotton wool, and is exceedingly troublesome when it finds its way to Grape Vines, for if allowed to spread — and it is no easy matter to hold it in check — it will render the crop quite worthless. The insect will live through the winter on greenhouse plants; but here it increases so slowly and spreads so little, that it does not do much harm, further than that when stove and greenhouse plants are mixed for decorative purposes, there is danger of the bugs getting from any infested greenhouse plants that happen to come in contact with the occupants of the stove. The worst circumstance connected with Mealy Bug is, that it does not alone exist upon plints, but it gets into the woodwork, under the lights, cracks, and joints, into the rafters, and even the brickwork; consequently, if all the plants in a house infested with it were thoroughly cleaned or destroyed, it would be sure to make its appearance on any fresh ones that were introduced into it. It will also live upon almost any description of plant grown in heat in the summer season, or, even in winter where much heat is used. It increases very fast, and, if left unmolested, to such an extent as to virtually smother the plants ; its excrement coating over the surface of the leaves, clogging up the pores almost as com- pletely as if they had received a coat of varnish. Mealy Bug is, by far, the most difficult insect to thoroughly eradicate where once it gets established; and there is no possibility of its complete destruction, except by persistent action, until every trace of it disappears. On Ciictimhers and Melons. — Upon Cucumbers and Melons Mealy Bugs thrive apace, and the plants will not stand any dressing sufficiently strong to kill them. It sometimes hap- pens that plants affected cannot for a time be spared ; then it becomes necessary to keep the insects as well under as possible with the sponge and syringe, using clean tepid water; but wherever the plants can be done without the best plan is to destroy them, giving the house a thorough cleaning before starting a fresh lot. On Fiijs. — In the Fig-house they are more difficult to deal with, as the young fruit are liable to drop off through the application of any dressing that will kill the insects, yet there are not so many hiding-places on the bark of Figs as upon Vines. As soon as the leaves are off give three dressings with Abyssinian Mixture, using it at 4 oz. to the gallon. If this be carefully applied it will effectually destroy the Bugs. The house must undergo a similar cleansing to that recom- mended for Vineries. (hi Pine-apples. — It is so difficult to eradicate Mealy Bug from Pine-apples that some growers burn the infected stock, and after the house has been thoroughly cleaned, painted, and ■whitewashed, make a new beginning with suckers obtained from a thoroughly clean stock. The following remedy may be used in mild cases ; — Boil 1 lb. of Tobacco in a gallon or two of water for an hour or so, and when settled pour off the liquor ; melt 1 lb. of soft soap and 1 lb. of size or glue in warm water ; take 1 lb. of flowers of sulphur, mix it up into a paste with the soap and glne, so that it will easily mix with water afterwards; add to it 1 gill of turpentine; mix the whole well in a tub containing about ]'2 gallons of water, at a temperature of 125° to 130"; stir it well about, and continue stirring; then take the Pine plants and syringe them with the liquid, seeing that every plant and every axil are thoroughly washed and wetted. Let them drain into a tub, and set them aside top downwards to drip and dry. In a day or two syringe them again with clear water at 120°; drain again, and when dry plunge in a genial bottom-heat, after having renewed the beds, and white- washed and painted, and thoroughly cleaned the house. These directions are for plants in pots, Oil Stephanofis. — It is difficult to completely eradicate Mealy Bug when once it has got established, but with perseverance it can, nevertheless, be accomplished ; and it is more easily de- stroyed on Stephanotis than on most other plants, owing to its being able to bear, without injury, an appliciition of insecticide sufficiently strong to kill the insects. Kemove the plant from the wires, and immerse its head in Stevenson's " Abyssinian Mixture," 8 oz. to the gallon; repeat this two or three times in the course of a fortnight. Paint the house thoroughly; lime- wash the walls; remove the surface soil from the beds, if any ; also tan, or other plunging material ; in short, leave no lurking places in which the insects or their eggs can find a lodgment. Dip and wash all plants in the insecticide repeatedly, as recom- mended for this insect. This, if carried out, will effect its complete destruction. On Slave Plants. — In the case of Stove Plants, almost the only course that can be taken is to overhaul them, and wash away every cluster of the pest with the aid of a small hard brush, water, and soft soap. This must be done several times in the course of the year, in fact, as often as may be necessary. Mr. Jordon, of St. Louis, says in the " Gardeners' Monthly," that he has removed these pests from thousands of the most delicate stove plants without iiijurj' to the latter, simply by applying frequently for a few weeks spirits of wine diluted with 5 per cent, of water. The most convenient equipment, he thinks, is a fine brush put through the cork of a wide-mouthed bottle. By using camphorated spirits reduced with water, the most delicate-foliaged stove plants may be operated on without injury. Ic, however, requires careful and frequent attention to get rid of this pest, and the mixture is best ns-ed with a soft brush or a small piece of sponge tied to the end of a stick and washed on as softly as possible. On Vines. — Grape Vines infested with Mealy Bug must be frequently examined when they are in full growth, and the clusters of the pest be brushed away. At the winter-pruning well wash every particle of the wood, and then dress it with a mixture prepared as follows : — To 10 quarts of water add Tobacco I lb., sulphur 1 lb , soft soap 1 lb., and a table-spoon- ful of spirits of turpentine. To properly mix the several in- gredients, boil first of all the Tobacco for twenty minutes in about three quarts of water ; then vvith a little of this water, whilst quite hot, work the turpentine, sulphur, and soft soap into a paste, and when they have been well mixed gradually pour upon it the remainder of the boiling water, and finally add sufficient clear water to make ten quarts in all. The Vines must be painted all over with this mixture, and sufficient care taken to avoid rubbing or in any way injuring the buds. Those who may be anxious to avoid the trouble of preparing the above mixture can dress the Vines with Gishurst Compound, in the proportion of 8 oz. to the gallon of water, with sufficient clay added to make it of the consistency of paint. To amateurs with but little time on their hands the mixture of Gishurst can be strongly recommended. ■ Another remedy is to fumigate the plants when they are dry for several nights running, and next moniing syringe over and under the leaves with soot-water, holding 1 lb. of size in solution in four gallons of water. For strong, hard-wooded plants use a size solution, containing 1 lb. of size to the gallon of water, and daub the Bug with a brush wherever it shows itself. Tomato Sauce. — I am anxioua to pet a rpcipo for making; Tomato Sance, to be bottled and kppt similar to that made by Crosse eare. ORCHIDS AT REST. On the care bestowed on the management of Orchids while at rest mainly depends the future health of the plants, and the production of the beautiful Bowers for which they are cul- tivated. An acquaintance with the climate of the countries in which they are found enables us to know that most of them make their growth during the rainy season, and to imitate this by a more or less copious supply of water, together with a proper temperature during the growing season, is almost all that is necessary to ensure the healthy development of the plants; but after they are fully grown they require a proportionate season of rest, and we cannot, under cultivation, subject them to the same treatment which numbers of them receive in their native habitats. Many Orchids, particularly East Indian Dendrobes and other deciduous epiphytal varieties, experience in their native countries a high temperature during the resting season — often over 100", while at the same they are exposed to the full rays of the sun; and this taking place during the dry season, and lasting for a considerable time, the plants are so reduced and emaciated, as to be scarcely recog- nizable. The knowledge of this fact was a dangerous thing in the earlv days of Orchid growing, for it was in trying to imitate Nature in this particular that cultivators mainly erred ; they took great pains to preserve a high temperature, which only resulted in killing the plants. The resting season of by far the greater number of the Orchid family takes place under cultivation during our autumn and winter, and if we subject them to a high temperature during that period, when the sun has but little power, and when, on account of bad or frosty weather, the outer air, which alone could save the plants, can- not be admitted, in lieu of resting they push out weak and premature growth and soon perish. The sun-heat and pure air of their native wilds are very different from the artificial heat and close atmosphere of an Orchid-house. Happily cultivators have for years discontinued such erroneous treatment, experience having taught them that the one thing needful for the proper development of both plants and flowers — a resting season of sufiicient duration — is better attained by subjecting the plants to a reasonably low temperature, at the same time keeping them as dry as possible consistent with their preservation in a healthy condi- tion. When speaking of Orchids generally, they being widely distributed and coming from different elevations, no fixed time can be given as to the proper resting season for all kinds, as some few will always be found to be growing, and whenever this occurs the cultivator must use his own judgment, and treat them as growing plants until they are fully developed. Cattleya superba, C. Walkeriana, Chysis, and several other kinds, frequently make two growths in the year, and they should be rested after each growth, but the resting period during the autumn or winter should be the longer of the two. The majority of Orchids under cultivation take their rest between October and March, and even the late-growing kinds should, by liberal treatment, be so managed as to come in as early in the season as possible, so that they may have the full benefit of fine weather and bright sunshine during their early growth. Again, many of the New Granada Orchids and others from high elevations are known to experience at times in their native habitats a very low temperature — sometimes a touch of frost ; but for similar reasons to those which forbid us giving a high temperature during the resting season to the East Indian varieties, &c., it is not judicious to allow these to get below a certain point, the probability being that if we subject them to an extremely low temperature, not being in exactly the same condition as if in their native habitats, they will suffer more or less. It will be well, there- fore, to give the minimum day and night temperature for each class of Orchids during the height of the resting season, and afterwards endeavour to point out those varieties which require a long or a short period of rest, and those which require to be kept dry or otherwise during that period. The temperature for East Indian Orchids and those which are grown with them should be 65° by day and 60° at night ; for those of the Cat- tleya or intermediate house 55° by day and 50° at night; and for the Odontoglossum or cold house 60° by day and 45° at night, the day temperature being allowed to rise 5° by sun-heat, admitting air on every occasion when the weather outside will permit. As Orchids rest at various times, some of them begin- ning in September, and others following on up to March, it will be readily understood that it would not be well to reduce the temperature of the respective houses to those mentioned for any such length of time, and on account of the number of growing plants contained in them it would be impossible to do so, except during the coldest months of the year, when the majority of the plants are at rest ; but nothing need prevent the removal of the earlier resting plants into the suitable temperature until their own houses are ready for regulating to the approved temperatures during the resting period, when they can be returned to them. Aerides, Saccolabiums,Vandas, PhalEBnopsis, and other evergreen epiphytal kinds belonging to th e East Indian house,do not require so Ion g a season of rest as the varieties which lose their leaves, but the longer they are kept in an inactive state the better for them, and the surer are they to flower. These varieties should not be allowed to get quite dry, although great care should be taken not to water them unnecessarily or to damp the foliage, particularly in the heart of the plant. Evergreen terrestrial Orchids, such as Calanthe, Phaius, Cypripedium, &o., require the shortest period of rest of any class of Orchids, being frequently grown with- out any rest, but although they may succeed for a time when so treated, they suffer in the end. They should be rested immediately after flowering for three weeks or a month in the temperature recommended for East Indian Orchids, being at the same time but sparingly watered ; this treatment will be found conducive to the health of the plants themselves, and it insures their flowering during the following season. Dendro- biums of all kinds require a long resting season, during which they should be exposed to as much sunlight and air as possible ; the varieties which lose their foliage as the pseudo-bulbs ripen should not be watered, unless they evince signs of shrivelling, in which case a small quantity may be given them from time to time to keep them in a healthy condition. The drier these and other Orchids of like habit are kept during the resting season the more profusely will they flower, and the more likely are they to make vigorous growth ; invariably when these plants are kept moist when they should be at rest they push out growth instead of flower from the joints, and thus lose all chance of flowering for that season. The decaying foliage should never be cut off, but allowed to fall off naturally. The evergreen kinds, such as D. thyrsiflorum, D. chrysotoxum, D. speciosum, &c., should be slightly watered, say once a week, but should never be saturated. Almost the whole of the occupants of the Cattleya or intermediate-house, Cattleyas, Laslias, Oncidiums, Guatemalan and Mexican Odontoglossums, Miltonias, &o., require a long period of rest, and if the temperature be kept as recommended, but little water will be needed ; nevertheless the watering must be attended to during the resting just the same as at any other time, even if not more than a dozen plants require it. More care with respect to this matter is necessary with the intermediate-house plants than with the others ; not a plant should be watered until it is seen that it cannot possibly thrive any longer without it. During the rest- ing season the floor of this house should not be washed, and care should be taken not to spill water unnecessarily, a cool dry atmosphere being highly important to these plants when at rest. The Huntleyas, with which we may include Pescatorea, Bollea, Warscewiczella, &c., often tempt the culti- vator to give them water when at rest, for having no fleshy pseudo-bulbs they are supposed by many to require support even when not growing ; this is a great mistake, for no class of Orchids suffers more from being kept moist when at rest than these ; they have large fleshy roots, and the most limited supply of water is sufficient for them in winter. The Chysis, Catasetum, Cycnoches, and allied plants should be kept dry while at rest. The Anguloas, Lycastes, &o., many of which are sub-terrestrial, should receive a little water occa-. 302 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 23, 1876. sionally. Arpophyllums and evergreen Epidendrums should be treated the same as the Cattleyas. The Rodrigaezias, Bnrling- tonias, lonopsis, Onoidiums of the O. pulchellum and O. tri- auetrum class, and other small-growing kinds having no pseudo-bulbs, should be carefully watched, and water given them from time to time to keep them from perishing. Any of the Oattleya-house plants which may be growing during the resting season should be removed to the East Indiau house until their growth is finished. In the Odontoglossum or cool house, which contains the New Granada Odontoglossumsof the Alexandra, nrevium, and triumphans class, the Masdevallias, &c., coming from high elevations where the atmosphere is humid, and where the sun is not so powerful as in the low- lands and on the east coast, the necessary check is given to the plants by lowering the temperature to that given above, but not withholding water. Although the plants iu this house should be more sparingly watered during the autumn and winter than during the spring and summer, they should not be permitted to get dry ; they like moisture around them, and air, which is all important to these plants, should be freely admitted whenever the weather will permit. Care should be taken to preserve the minimum temperature for this class of Orchids, viz., 45*^ at night and 50° by day, and the thermometer should not be allowed to fall below that, for although I have seen these plants ia a temperature almost down to freezing point without much apparent iujury, I con- sider that a temperature of 45" is the lowest in which any Orchid can remain with safety. The Masdevallias grow at almost all times, and whether growing or resting will thrive well in the Odontoglossum-house ; they should never be allowed to get quite dry ; as soon as one growth is finished they com- mence another, and so on throughout the greater part of the year. The critical time with these plants is just as they have finished one growth and before they begin another ; at this juncture, no matter how many times during the year it may happen, the Masdevallias should be watered but sparingly until the new growth starts. When a growth is completed the sheaths which encase the base, and which have been so service- able up to that time, die off, and if the plants be watered freely at that time the moisture is apt to lodge in the sheaths, and instead of drying off in a natural manner they are likely to rot off, and either damage or destroy the growths which they are designed to preserve ; keeping the Masdevallias drier after a growth is finished also materially assists them in the production of their flowers. The whole secret of managing Orchids during the resting season, particularly the deciduous, epiphytal kinds, lies in keeping the plants of each class in a reasonably low temperature, which will neither excite them into growth nor, on the other hand, shrivel and reduce them. The temperatures given above will be found to answer well, as the plants placed in them will require but little water, a matter of some importance, for it is better to err in keeping resting Orchids too dry than too wet. The ventilation of the Orchid- houses requires some degree of management during the dull months of the year, but as air is as essential to the plants then as at any other time, it must be attended to ; even when there is only an hour or two of fine weather in the day the opportunity of giving air should not be neglected ; it is surprising what improvement can be effected in the atmosphere of a house by opening two or three of the ventilators a quarter of an inch. The resting period offers a good opportunity for getting rid of any insects with which the plants may be infested, and to that end they should be carefully sponged over two or three times during the season, but care should be taken that they be not bruised or scratched ; any of the plants which are shrivelled should not be cleaned until they have regained their plump- ness, or the tissues will be injured and the plants disfigured. There are numbers of Orchid growers who possess but one Orchid-house, but although special care must oe taken in the management of it, no obstacle is thereby offered to the successful culture of these plants. In such a case the house should bo kept at the intermediate-house temperature, and each class of plants arranged together, and treated as nearly as possible as rocommendod, the object being to give the plants as good a rest as |)0SHible and to pass safely over the dull season, and this by the exercise of a little patience and discrimination can be readily accomplished. J. O'B. THE FRUIT GARDEN. EOOT-PRUNING FRUIT TREES. Laege, comparatively, unpruned, orchard trees, with their roots little or not at all interfered with, no doubt produce the greatest weight of fruit ; but such trees in a kitchen garden, if at all numerous, soon make it impossible to grow vegetables near them in anything like a satisfactory manner ; and ia small or even medium-sized gardens, large fruit trees are com- pletely out of place, for, in addition to the injurious effects inflicted upon other things, they prevent the possibility of growing a suSicient number of kinds to give variety. An attempt is often made to cope with over-luxuriance by severe branch-pruning, but so long as there exists an over-balance of root power, this only increases the evil by causing the produc- tion of still stronger, unfruitful shoots. Apart from the ad- vantage gained by root-pruning in keeping the trees within bounds, it favours the production of flowers possessing more strength, and capable of bearing a lower degree of cold than those borne by trees in a less fruitful condition. This is no new discovery, but a fact known to those who have closely observed the effects of cold, ungenial weather at the time at which the trees were in bloom, and have noted the great difference in the ability to resist cold of trees of the same varieties standing side by side, but under such difference of condition in respect to their flowers as above indicated. The least observant could scarcely fail to notice the great difference there exists in the size, substance, and full development in all the parts of the flowers of fruit trees, especially Apples and Pears, that are in thoroughly fruitful condition such as that brought about by root-pruning, as compared with the small, imperfectly developed bloom of trees, that are more disposed to the pro- duction of wood than of fruit. Attentive observation over a lengthened period, in various parts of the country, and on soils as different in their nature as they possibly could be, but all by their results pointing in the same direction, has enabled me to speak with confidence regarding this matter. I never recollect a season when the effects of these conditions in fruit trees were more fully exemplified than during the cold and lengthened spring which we had this year. To secure the desired results, the principal thing to be observed is to prune at the right time. If the work be carried out very early in September its effects will be to some extent apparent the following season, as it will induce the formation of fruit-buds that otherwise would not exist ; but it is during the ensuing summer that the influence which it has upon the trees will be most apparent, as their energies will bo directed towards the formation of immense quantities of fruit-buds, instead of, as hitherto, the production of useless wood, aud this in the case of trees that previously have shown little or no disposition to bear. Root-pruning can easily be performed by any one possessing a fair amount of intelligence ; but for the guidance of those who may not have seen work of the kind done, it may be necessary to give some explanation as to the mode of procedure. Commence by cutting a trench about 16 in. wide on opposite sides of the trees — say on the north and south sides going about halfway round at a distance of from y ft. to 4 ft. from the stem, according to the size of tree to be operated upon. The younger and smaller it is, the closer its roots may be cut in without danger of its being afterwards dis- placed by the wind. Cut the trench as deeply as any roots can be found, severing all the strong ones completely, especially those that are deep down, making a clean cut of each with a knife even with the side of the trench next the tree ; when sufficiently deep to have got at all the roots that occupy a horizontal position, in the case of any trees that show more than usual vigour it will be advisable to work right under the centre of the ball of earth at a depth of 2^ ft. or 3 ft. below the surface, according to the natural depth of the soil and size of the tree, so as to get at any tap roots that descend perpen- dicularly into the sub-soil, and which, if they exist, are most likely the principal cause of rank growth and unfruitfulness, severing these, as recommended in the case of the strong side roots ; in replacing the earth, particularly where the work has been carried right imder the trees, it will be necessary to ram the soil well into its place so as to make it something like Sept. 23, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 303 as solid as it -was before being removed, making it similarly solid at the sides. If in two or tbree years' time the trees again show a disposition to get too strong, open trennhes on the opposite sides, and treat them as just recommended. Where fruit trees are grown in kitchen gardens, such as the above are supposed to be, and the soil is rich and deep, with a good deal of manure used for the vegetable crops, it is some- times necessary to repeat this root-pruning operation at intervals of from three to four years, on each occasion catting the roots 8 in. or 10 in. further away from the bole of the tree than at the preceding pruning; but in most cases when the trees, after their first or second pruning, are brought into a free-bearing condition, they keep on in a fruitful state, as fruit-bearing in itself, by taxing the powers of the trees, acts directly as a corrective of over-luxu- riance. 1 sometimes meet with people who assert that root- pruning has injured their trees, but in all cases where this has occurred I have been able to trace the ill effects to its being either practised where not required, or much more frequently to the work being done at the wrong time. On several occa- sions, by way of experiment, I have tried the effect of root- pruning carried out in the spring at different times up to when the buds were slightly in motion, and in all cases it injured the trees ; in some its effects were visible for years, reducing them to a weakly condition, in which they made little growth, generally producing plenty of fruit but very small and out of character. I have also carried out the work in every month, from the time the leaves were off until the spring. November, December, and January, showed little difference in the effects produced, but in no case did the operation appear to have such an influence in causing the production of fruit- buds as when performed in September, whilst the trees were full of healthy leaves. Complete removal and replanting, if the trees have stood undisturbed at the roots for any con- siderable time, is a more trying ordeal than root-pruning, but similar in its effects, so far as iuducing the formation of fruit- buds ; and this is another matter which at this time of the year deserves especial attention. I much prefer the latter half of September for carrying out this work in the case of mode- rate-sized trees, such as may have been planted a dozen years or so, to deferring the removal until later in the season. Some j'ears ago I moved a number of Apples, Pears, and Plums that had been planted fourteen years, and once root-pruned during that time, viz., three years before they were taken up. They were removed in September, with all the roots that could be got attached to them, and -with as little mutilation as possible, carefully planted, well watered, and securely staked ; and nothing could have succeeded better; most of them bore a thin crop the ensuing summer, but, as might be expected, the fruit was small. They have ever since borne remarkably well. A friend of mine some years ago had occasion to move some hundreds of Apple and Pear trees that had stood for over twenty years without shifting from the place where first planted ; they were transferred to their new quarters in September, and, with very few exceptions, they succeeded, and are now as healthy and fruitful as could be desired. Now, if these trees had not been moved until the season was so far advanced that the leaves had fallen, they would have been several years before they recovered, making very little growth, and producing small fruit of little value. The difference be- tween early autumn and winter planting is, that when the trees are moved whilst the earth and air contain sufiicient heat to induce them to make new feeding roots at once, and the leaves upon them have vitality enough to assist the formation of such roots, these are in readiness in spring to answer the call that is made upon them to support the leaf development that the trees then attempt ; whereas when removal takes place after the leaves have fallen and the ground has got cold, no roots are formed to assist bud and leaf-expansion. The result is, that the latter are of the smallest and poorest description, generally becoming a prey to red spider, and that the trees can only be kept alive through the summer by con- tinuous watering, and in the autumn are weak in the extreme. T. Baines. Thk Italian Government haB prohibited the importation of Grapes, as well as the leaves and all other parts of Tines into that country. PEA.OHBS AND NECTARINES ON MAGNESIAN LIMESTONE. That fine late Nectarine the Victoria grows so well here in soil taken from the surface of a magnesian limestone rock, that I generally stack some of the most turfy portion of this soil every year fur adding to the Peach tree borders, and for orchard-house trees as well as for the borders. No manure of any kind is added to this soil, as I find the yoang shoots of the trees always ripen both wood and buds better without stimnlating them into grossnesa, and the frait can be grown to the largest size by giving some liquid manure to the trees at the proper season. One of the greatest errors in Peach culture that can be committed is planting the trees in too rich a soil, the materials frequently employed being manures containing the spores of funguses, which soon find their way to the roots, and unhealthy, barren trees are the result. A magnesian turfy soil is only found in a few localities, but good substitutes may always be found in loamy or daik, sandy soils, to which should be added any calcareous materials, such as old mortar or scrapings of roads in chalky districts, that can be obtained. When properly made and drained I find in Peach borders that the trees do best where they are not disturbed by digging or forking amongst the roots, in fact, the soil cannot be kept too solid. As "T." (see p. 235) men- tions that the Walburton Admirable Peach does well here, I may state that this variety is grown in the same soil as the Victoria Nectarine. Although this very large and fine late Peach never colours very highly as a show fruit, it is nevertheless a valuable kind, on account of its lateness in ripening and fine flavour. Another late Peach, the Desse Tardive, is a very useful sort, but not so much grown or known as it deserves to be. Mr. Rivers' Princess of Wales and Lord and Lady Palmerston, are likewise invaluable for prolong, ing the Peach season until it is wound np by the Salwey. Welieck. W. Tilleet. Protecting Early Vine Borders. — After so much dry weather we may possibly have a good deal of wet ; every care should, there- fore, be taken to protect early Vine borders from getting saturated at this time of the year, as nothing is more inimical to the growth of early Vines than a cold wet border. As sun-heat is now diminishing, early borders should have a few inches of litter placed over them, and should then be covered with wooden shutters, to keep out rain and enclose the summer's heat which the borders now contain, till the end of October, when the shutters should be lifted off, and all the old litter carefully removed, for if any be left it is apt to encourage fungi. If the roots be close to the surface a dressing, consisting of 2 in. of good fresh turf and a handful of i in. bones, will keep up the vigour of the Vines, under the unnatural pressure to which they are subjected when forced early into growth. Then apply 3 in. of freshly rotted manure and 1 ft. of leaves or litter, and replace the shutters, which will keep out rain and maintain a certain amount of natural heat during the winter, which is more congenial to the roots than placing hot-beds on the borders. When the shutters used for this purpose are in a dry state, they should be coated over with gas-tar and pitch, boiling hot, every second year. — James Smith, Waterdale. Xiarge Strawberries. — Among forty varieties of Strawberries which 1 grew last year, the largest was James Veitch, eight fruits of which weighed 1 lb. This season it took from seventeen to eighteen to weigh 1 lb., a result partly owing to the cold, frosty weather which we had in May and Jane ; so severe, indeed, was the frost in June, that all the earliest bloom was destroyed. The large fruits gathered in 1875 were Cockscomb-shaped, not those of a globular or conical form, which is the normal shape of this variety. I noticed also in these large Strawberries a great tendency to decay, if in contact with the damp soil. I have gathered during the past season very fine and large fruit from Dr. Hogg, President, and Sir Joseph Paxton, all first season plants. Many of the finest fruit of these kinds weighed nearly 1 oz. each. I consider these three varieties superior in many respects to James Veitch, especially as regards quantity and quality of fruit. — W. LovBL, Weavertliorpe, York. The Colston Basset Melon.— Having acted as fruit judge at several exhi- titions this season, I have had to test the quality ol a great quantity of Melons, and I have remarked that wherever ColBton Basset was exliibited it has gene- rally stood first in point of flavour. I£ others would give us their experience in this and similar matters, we might soon arrive at somettiing satisfactory as regards the best kinds of fruits.— Wm. Culvbswell, Thorpe Perrow, Bedale. E Economical Grape Growing.— At Warren Wood, near Hatfield, Mr. Haslett has placed a glass covering over some Tines in the following manner :— First he has a few courses of bricks, then a hand-glass firmly set, and on this a second hand-glass with a movable top ; each contrivance, of which there are several, contained one Tine well laden with fruit , these were planted previously to their breaking into bud,— E. Bbhhbxi, Halley, 304 THE GARDEN, [Sept. 23, 1876. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Fuchsias in Sea.side Gaedexs. — It is probable there is no more lovely effect from vegetation than that now afforded by the bushes and hedges of the commonest and oldest Faohsias in cottage gardens in Sonth Wales and various other wild and sea-shore districts. A dense hedge of one of these immediately within and drooping over the low wall of a Welsh cottage garden was brilliant and lovely indeed, at a time (September 20) when our own wild plants and most of the garden flora, too, are past or on the wane. Why not try a number of the newer and finer kinds in districts where the Fuchsia is BO much at home in the open air ? CEnotheha cxspitosa. — This is one of the most beautiful of Even, ing Primroses, a native of California, and probably a biennial. It forms dense rosettes, conBisting of leaves from 5 in. to 7 in. long, the edges and veins of which are thickly set with silvery hairs. The flowers, which are pure white, measure 3i in. across when open, and are very fragrant. Plants raised from seed in spring, and planted out in the beginning of June, will commence blooming early in July, and keep on flowering till September. This CEnothera, indeed, is in every way a moat desirable plant, both its flowers and leaves being pretty. It does not exceed 6 in. or 7 in. in height, and its blossoms keep open during the day. The Soapwort as an Autumnal Garden Flower. — A oorre- spondent writes to us concerning Saponaria oSioinalis : — "This well- known plant might be used with advantage more frequently as a garden flower, especially where hardy, late-blooming kinds are sought. The flowers seem to have nothing of the aspect of autumn about them, and are freely produced. Such fringes of the Soapwort as I have lately seen along hedge-banks in Wales would be very welcome in the wild garden." The International Potato Show. — This Show, a repetition of the experiment of last year, will be held in the Alexandra Palace, Mus- well Hill, on Thursday and Friday next, September 28 and 29. The pist season having proved in many districts unfavourable to the Potato crop, it will be a matter of some interest to note the varieties that acquire prominence in the forthcoming Show. The prizes offered amount to over £140, and it is expected that fully 3000 dishes will be staged. PiTiosPORUSi ToBiRA IN SouTH WALES. — There is now opening its flowers against Singleton Abbey a tree of this nearly 20 ft. high, full ot flowers and buds. This most precious shrub is not sufficiently planted on our warmer coasts : it is, so far as the blossoms are con. cerned, as good as the Orange tree ; the flowers are freely produced all the autumn, and indeed in winter. It is a fine evergreen, dis. tinot in foliage and habit from any other we have. In short, we know ot no one hardy shrub offering so many charms for gardens by the sea. I.MPATiENS glanduligera, — This old annual flower is a charming ornament at this season, when its delicate lilac blossoms, remarkably like Orchid flowers, are so freely produced on stout plants •!• ft. high. It is abundant in many cottage gardens in Wales, where it probably sows itself. In various positions in the wild garden it would be charming, affording as it does, when seen in quantity, a distinct and beautiful aspect of vegetation late in the season. Vineyards in England and Wales. — A correspondent writes to m expressing his opinion that a Vineyard would have a much better chance south of London than even in the warm and excellent site selected by the Marquis of Bute. He considers that the warmer soils on the chalk hills of Kent or Sussex would be much more conducive to the well-being of a Vineyard than the richer and moister soils ot the wast coast, where, moreover, the climate is moister. The African Lily por Indoor Decoration. — It may not be generally known that Agapanthus umbellatus, an old border and greenhouse favourite, is admirable for room decoration ; a single large truss of it in a low narrow-necked vase, or plain glass Hyacinth bottle, has a strikingly pretty effect. This plant should be grown more frequently than it is in the milder districts of the country, whore it survives the winter in the open air. The Potato Disease. — Mr. Garland, writing from KiUerton, near Exeter, informs us that this disease has attacked the Potato haulm in that neighbourhood, and that it is spreading rapidly. Many of the tubers lifted a fortnight ago have also become affected. We may aid that diseased Potatoes are beginning to make their appearance in Oovent Garden Market. New Cure for the Phylloxera. — Among recent communications to the French Academy on the subject of the Phylloxera was one by M. Thenai'd, describing the good results obtained by stripping off the bark of phylloxerized Vines. This is easily done by means of a steel glove, and it frees the Vine from the insect during its aiirial evolution. The method might prove more advantageous than that which attacks it during its sabterrauean life. HARDY FLOWERS OF THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. In warm, sunny positions hardy Cyclamens are now very pretty, and well deserve a place in every garden. Among the most showy Composites now in bloom are Chrysanthemums of the dwarf early flowering section ; several of the Sunflowers are also still very attractive, and none more so than the double form of Helianthus multiflorus, which may be seen in good con- dition at the Crystal Palace and elsewhere grouped with Dahlias and Tritoma Uvaria. Among Dahlias one of the most distinct and beautiful is D. coccinea, a free-growing, single-flowered variety with bright scarlet ray-florets and a yellow disc ; rosy- crimson and white-flowered Pyrethrums are still very effective and well deserve culture, if only for the bright-tinted flowers which they afford for large vases. The Michaelmas Daisies are now in perfection, and among the most effective are Aster Novl Belgii and A. cassarabicus, a large.flowered variety of a lovely blue colour. A very pretty Iberis named ciliata is now bearing tufts of delicate lilac-purple flowers in abundance ; Chelone speciosa obliqua is at present one of the noblest of all autumn border flowers; Dracooephalum speciosum is also very pretty, bearing erect spikes of bi-ight rosy blossoms ; and a semi-double white variety ot Centranthus ruber deserves notice on account of its late-blooming properties, as also does the bright crimson-flowered Spigelia marylandica, which still continues to flower, although its first blooms opened fully two months ago. The Ceylon Wind-flower (Zephyranthes Candida) is now very pretty, its pearly buds and white petals peeping through the soil in company with the lilac and purple-flowered Colchicums, which are still beautiful in sheltered positions, the best being 0. speciosum, which has large, waxy, purple-tipped flowers 4 in. across. The scarlet Gladiolus-like Schizostylis coccinea is now opening its glowing flowers on sunny borders, as is also Lobelia syphilitica and L. f ulgens ; Alstrojmeria peruviana, with crimson, green-streaked flowers is likewise very beautiful. Some of the Evening Primroses continue in flower, as do also the different forms of the Marvel of Peru and the purple-blossomed Cuphea-like Lythrum alatum and Convolvulus cantabricus, a useful Bindweed with delicate rosy blossoms. One of the prettiest of all blue flowers now in full beauty is Anchusa capensis. The charming Gladiolus Saundersi is still in great beauty in the Wellington Road Nursery ; it is one of the most distinct and beautiful of all the G. ramosus type, and well deserves a place among autumn, flowering bulbs, iiieracium aurantiacum is flowering on dry, sunny banks, and at Mr. Ware's may be seen the pretty little purjjle-flowered Triteleia-like Tulbaghia violacea, one ot the prettiest of all late-flowering Alliaceous plants. One of the best of all the yellow-flowered Hypoxis is the stellate golden- flowered H. villosa, which is blooming freely in a bed at Tottenham, but it is so beautiful and precious that it well deserves careful pot-culture in a frame. Viola canadensis, pale-flowered American plant, is now flowering freely ; and one of the prettiest of all white flowers now in season is Lychnis vespertina fl.-pl. Epilobium sericeura is still very ornamental, as is also the rosy-lilao Sedum spectabile. Rudbeckia pur- purea is one of the noblest of ail Composites, its wine-red florets contrasting well with the dark brown cone-shaped disc. Perhaps one of the most striking of all hardy plants is Tigridia Pavonia, which is in fine condition; as is also a pretty little yellow-flowered Snapdragon, named Linaria genistifolia. Out-door Camellias in Devonshire. — We had for many years a very fine old Double White Camellia growing in the open air. It was 10 It. high and the same through j it grew freely, and set its buds very thickly from three to five at the point ot each shoot. The situation was very favourable, being a corner of the flower- garden facing south-east, and sheltered on three sides by the walls of the house. It was protected every winter by a temporary frame- work covered with mats, but although it succeeded so well and flowered freely, the blooms wero not comparable with those grown under glass ; they had a yellowish tinge at the base of the petals, and generally fell prematurely. The plant stood on the same spot probably for upwards of forty years until five years ago, when I boxed up the ball with a strong Elm box, raised the plant up bodily with a lifting jack, and, by means of a horse and low truck, took it away, and planted it in the centre ot the conservatory, where every spring since it has flowered profusely. — J. Garland, KiUerton. Sept. 28, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 305 Orange Hieraoium (H. aurantiaoum). Shrubby Stoneorop (Sedum popolitoUum) Aster amplezioaalis. Parple Cone-flower (Rudbeokia purpnrea) . Doable Meadow Buttercup (Ranunoulasacrisfl.-pl.). Lady Larpent'a Plumbago (P. Larpentse). Purple Hemp Agrimony (Bupatorium purpnreum) . Blue Sow TlujBtle (Mulgedium alpiuum). Pampas Grass (Gynerium argenteum). Goldylooks (Linosyria Tulgaris). SOME HARDY FLOWERS OP THE WEEK IN LONDON GARDENS. 306 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 23, 1876. BEGONIAS OUT-OF-DOOES AT HEATHERBANK. The Begonias now in bloom in Mr. G. F. Wilson's garden at Heatherbank, Weybridge, have formed a very charming and various display of colour during the last two months, and will probably continue to do so for some time to come. Almost every shade of colour, from white, yellow, and pink, to every shade of red,orange,crimson, and scarlet, and even deep maroon, can now be found among the new species introduced of late years, or the hybrids and varieties which have been produced in our gardens. It is somewhat singular that considering their hardiness, neatness of growth, graceful and varying habit, and above all, their abundant flowering properties, that they have not ere now become as popular, even in cottage windows, as Fuchsias and Pelargoniums. Many of the kinds have the graceful drooping habit of growth and the pendent flowers in as great profusion as those of the most showy Fuchsias, while their brilliant and varied range of colour is certainly more striking than that of the Fuchsia family ; and while the Begonias have at present the indubitable charm of comparative novelty, eveu our favourite Pelargoniums are scarcely more attractive as regards colour. A large bed of Begonias at Heatherbank, of various tones of crimson and scarlet, is so successful in eiiect that surely more general use ought to be made than at present of the exquisitely beautiful kinds that are now in such variety. They ought certainly to be taking a more conspicuous place as bedding plants, and a hint from the proper quarter might pei'haps lead to the adoption of Begonias for bedding purposes in Hyde Park as a means of varying somewhat the too familiar character of the Pelargoniums and other flowering plants now to be seen there. In reference to modern Begonias, it may be as well to describe a few of the most conspicuous now in bloom in Mr. Wilson's collection for the benefit of your readers. By "modern" Begonias is meant those kinds which are of comparatively re- cent introduction, principally from Central America, and more notably from Bolivia, whence the beautiful species which literally covers itself with gracefully drooping blossoms of vivid orange-scarlet was introduced, and which bears the name of its native country as B. Boliviensis. It was from this splendid Begonia that Messrs. Veitch and other well-known cultivators raised some of the more dazzling varieties. The old favourite Begonia of the cottage window, where it still lingers as an old-fashioned relic, is a mere weed in comparison with the new species and varieties. Its modest two-petaled flowers of delicate rose-colour, with the accompaniment of its crimson- veined leaves and transparent scarlet stjilks, fade into insig- nificance when compared with the superb four, sis, and eight- petaled members of the family recently brought into culti- vation. These are soon destined to form the glories of many a cottage garden and window throughout the land, and will afford to cottagers' wives and daughters the same interest in collecting the little bulbs as that to which they have been accustomed with their old favourite, but now eclipsed species, keeping them through the winter free from frost to re-plant them in February, and watching the rapid growth of the beauti- ful plants till they attain their full size and beauty in high summer. Some prefer leaving the bulbs in the pot undis- turbed when the plant dies down, and keeping it perfectly dry until the ensuing season — about February. The following are a few of the most beautiful varieties which I noticed at Mr. Wilson's last week : — Begonia Sedenl, a eeedling variety from B. Boliviensis, is a meet brilliant plant. The flowers form a profuse shower of dazzling crim. son, drooping gracefully about it like a floral mantle. Mr. Wilson has raised several varieties from B. Sedeni which differ from, and in some respects surpass, the parent in beauty, the seed having been obtained from plants growing in the open border. B. Wilhelm Liebnich is a very exqnisite variety, with large four.petaled flowers of soft, lifjht-toned, orange-scarlet. B. Mazeppa is of somewhat similar character to the preceding, but its flowers are of a pale, though yet vivid salmon colour. B rubra superba has large, drooping, Icng-petaled flowers of bright scarlet. B. Richeese is a beautiful variety raised in France, the flowers of which form five.potalod fiat rosettes of deep velvety maroon, with a low, bushy, and robust habit, in contradistinction to the slender and graceful growth of many of the preceding. B. corail-rose.— -A seedling raised by M. Lemoine, has flowers of a rich maroon tone. It is also of low growth, springing from a tuEt of rounded leaves of rich velvety green, and is similar in soma respeota to B. Veitohi. A new white kind, raised by the late M. Van Hontte, is a band, some plant, with four.petaled flowers o£ vellum-like texture, opening flat, and very conspicuous. B. Pfltzsr is a very distinct plant ; the flower.atalks shoot np from a tuft of Gloxinia-like foliage, smooth and tall, and terminate in a pair of large and graceful pinkish blooms. B. Pearcei, which is one of the longest known of the recent kinds, is at the same time one of the most beautiful, the five- petaled flowers, opening flat, being of the most pure and vivid canary.yellow. The foliage of this plant is also very ornamental, being dark velvety green conspicuously veined with yellow. It is now flowering in a cold conservatory, the doors of which are constantly open, but it has so completely the aspect of a stove plant requiring tropical heat that I doubt its capacity for bearing the exposure of the open border ; yet it ia doubtless suSioiently hardy for the summer months. B. octopetala, bearing an eight.petaled, white flower as large as that of a single Dahlia, ia also a superb kind, introduced many yeara ago, but still rare. B. VeitcM ia too well known to require deaoription; it ia one of the finest of all the new varieties. Considerable numbers of these interesting modern Be- gonias have been proved to be sufficiently hardy to stand the winter in our gardens, and yet, at present, but little advantage appears to have been taken of such an opportunity for the production of novel and beautiful effects, as they manifestly afford. Several of the most beautiful of the above-named species and varieties have now withstood several winters on Mr. Wilson's rootwork, on which also several kinds of autumnal Cyclamens are now in fine bloom, and other Begonias enrich the borders, or are seen in masses as bedding plants. The Begonias are this autumn making a greater show at Heatherbank than any other class of plants, alwaya excepting the well-known collection of Lilies. H. N. H. Autumn Roses. — At no season of the year are Roses more beautiful than in the autumn ; in fact, the blooms of aeveral varie- ties surpass in quality, if not in quantity, those of June and July, and notably those of such light kinds as Souvenir de Slalmaison and Acidalie and of dark sorts, General Washington, the summer flowera of which are frequently imperfect. Many others amongst Hybrid Perpetuals, Teas, and Chinas also produce better blooms in autumn than in summer. The majority of our Eoses are on their own roots, in beds or raised banks, on which the longest shoots of each year are pegged down, most of the old wood being out out in winter. By this means we get an unlimited amount of bloom, and as it is prin- cipally wanted in a cut state for indoor decoration in London, we frequently supply, during the height of the season, several thousand blossoms every week. This is a largo consumption, but there ia one advantage in cutting the plants in early, and that is, they start into vigorous growth immediately they are relieved from their burden of flowers, and the lateral shoots of all the really perpetual flowerera yield a second crop in the autumn — in many instances, as I have said, superior to the first. Where Rose-buds are in request at this season, that beautiful variety Celine Forestior should be largely grown ; with us it continues to produce its blossoms until the Tea Eoses under glaas are ready to furnish a supply. — J. Groom, Henham. NOTES AND QUESTIONS ON THE PLOWEE GARDEN. Mountain Evening Frimrose (CGaothera montana).— This vraa rooeived by Mr. Ware, of Tottenham, from the Boayor-dara Mountains in Northern Utah. It is a true poronnial, with leaves from i in. to 5 in. in loQgth, lanceolate and entire, somewhat resembling in character those of tK. maorocarpa. It throws up numerous stems about 1 in. in length from a eiuffle root-stock, and produces largo yellow llowors, 3 in. to 4 in. in diameter, in ubundauce.— A. J. P. Lobelia, St. Martin's £lue.— This Lobelia was raised a few years &go by Mr. Rosa, of St. Martin's Gardens, Perth, at which place (according to " The Gardener") several thousands uro this year planted out. It received a first-class certificate at the Perth July show. Its foliage, instead of being green, is a very dark bronze, and the flowers a very telling blue, like the best torma of Lobelia Bpeciosa. The foliage being so dark, the effect produced in mass is very strik- ing, from the absence of the grassy appearance which the green foliage imparts, especially in wet seasons. This is certainly a most effective fiower garden plant, Sept. 23, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 307 THE EOYAL GAEDENS, FEOGMOEE. The accompanying illustration (p. 309) represents a view in the gardens at rrogmore House. In the foreground may be seen a splendid specimen of the Maiden-hair tree (Salisburia adiantlfolia) with a double leader; this tree is fully 80 ft.in height, and perfectly symmetrical, its peculiar olive-green tint contrasting admirably with that of the other trees with which it is associated. Nearer the house is a deciduous Cypress (Tasodium distichum) which, as shown in our engraving, is feathered to the ground with foliage, with the beautiful tint of which every one is familiar. Of Beeches, Eobinias, Planes, and Limes, there are also fine examples, and near a piece of ornamental water of a serpentine character. Weeping Birches and Willows are seen to excellent advantage. Here, too, are many noble Conifers, among which we remarked a splendid cleau-stemmed, deciduous Cypress, fully 80 ft. in height, the bole being nearly if not quite 3 ft. in diameter. A Wellingtouia planted in 1858 is now 51 ft. in height, and there are some fine specimens of the deep glossy green Thuja gi- gantea from 20 ft. to 35 ft. in height, Thujopsis borealis, 20 ft., and good examples of Cupressus funebris, Lawson's Cypress, and the more choice varieties of Abies and Picea. These con- stitute striking features on the soft, mossy, gently undulating lawn, their fine forms being here and there reflected in the water as in a mirror. Some of the larger beds and borders are filled with Ehododendrons and Ghent Azaleas, which, together with Hawthorns and Laburnums, are beautiful when in flower in spring. A couple of evergreen Oaks having enormous boles and wide-spreading heads of deep green foliage are specimens of their kind such as one seldom sees. The com- mon Barberry (Berberis vulgaris) is also very beautiful here, its tresses of bright coral-tinted fruit hanging down in profusion among the glossy foliage of the surrounding evergreens. Mountain Ash trees, too, are now to be seen at their best, being heavily laden with clusters of scarlet berries, and some of the finer varieties of Crattegus are also furnished with scarlet, crimson, and yellow fruit. An avenue of Wellingtonias, con- sisting of trees wholly raised from cuttings inserted in 1857, ranges from 30 ft. to 40 ft. in height. A little plot sheltered by Yew hedges is devoted to herbaceous and other hardy plants, such as Eudbeckias, Phloxes, Fuchsias of the globosa, magellanioa, and gracilis types, Tree Peonies, and Irids. The wall space is covered with Jasmine, Virginian Creepers, Co- toneaster, Magnolia, and other flowering deciduous and ever- green shrubs, and near one of the summer-houses is an interesting old bower similar to that at Hampton Court and others to be found in old-fashioned gardens. What, how- ever, struck us most was the calm repose which charac- terises the whole place — tree shade, bright green, velvety lawns, and varied water margins, but no geometrical flower-beds of complicated patterns, no carpet bedding or glittering parterre destroying the peaceful beauty of a scene held sacred as the resting-place of two of the nearest relatives of England's Queen. The Home Park and "Slopes." With the lofty position of Windsor Castle most of us are acquainted, and the distant views to be obtained from its terraces and slopes are too well known to need description. The Home Park is that part of the grounds which more immediately concerns us. It is very extensive, and con- sists of broad expanses of smoothly- shaven turf, enriched here and there with memorial trees. At some distance from the castle are noble specimens of Oak and other trees, one of the Oaks measuring 36 ft. in circumference. There are also some fine specimens of Paulownia imperialis, two of which measure some 45 ft. in diameter of spread of branches, and they flower beautifully every year. On the slopes — i.e., on the embankment that surrounds the castle on the north and east • — are gay flower-beds, which, owing to unremitting attention and abundance of water, almost rival in beauty those on the level ground. The sub-soil being chalk, trees and shrubs grow freely until they reach a certain age, when, from drought and other causes, they lose their superabundant vigour, and become more fertile, producing masses of bloom in spring and early summer, and abundance of berries in autumn. Oaks, Chest- nuts, Beeches, Elms, and other trees of large size, flank the base of the bank, or hollow, as it is commonly termed, and are seen to advantage from the walk that stretches along the eastern boundary of the park immediately above the embank- ment. The slopes themselves are clothed with evergreen and deciduous ornamental shrubs, and along the summit are some fine young Conifers. On a hill-side, at some little distance off, is a chalk-pit, which, at the suggestion of the late Prince Consort, was converted into a natural-looking rocky precipice, ornamented with Ferns, Alpine plants, and creepers that spread over stones, and fill up fissures in the most charming way imaginable. Nor does it in any -way reveal traces of artificial treatment. It is flanked on two sides with trees and shrubs, some of which also support it near the base, where some rocky boulders, now mossy and mantled with vegetation, find a resting-place ; a walk led over a rustic bridge traverses the length of this precipice, past a cosy arbour, and down into the valley, by means of rude stepping- stones. One of the finest features in this rocky dell is a little streamlet that, issuing from the top, dashes over a craggy descent until it reaches the bottom, where it buries itself in a tranquil miniature lake filled with fish, and ornamented with Ferny banks. The chief plants employed in the decoration of this glade are many varieties of Saxifrages and Primulas, Arabis, hardy Heaths, Creeping Jen- nies, Helianthemums, Ferns of many sorts. Periwinkles, Eoses, Virginian Creepers, Mahonias, Viburnums, Yuccas, Garrya elliptica, the Strawberry tree, and various kinds of Junipers. At the extreme end of the Home Park is another lovely little vale, in which is situated Adelaide Cottage with its flower garden, and also another charming little cottage, the residence of one of the park-keepers. Here there is a grand specimen of the Blenheim Orange Apple tree with a stem 7 ft. in girth, and bearing a crop of splendid fruit, averaged at about 26 bushels, and some years as many as 30 bushels have been gathered from it. There is also a flue specimen of the Koelreuteria paniculata in this vale, and in the park close by is one of the most symmetrical examples of WeUingtonia gigantea in the country. It is quite straight, erect, thickly branched to the very base, and measures over 30 ft. in height. Trained on the front walls of the cottage just alluded to are some Vines, whose canes ramble over the roof, and never have we seen, either in or out of doors, such a crop of Grapes as they are producing this year ; the bunches would probably average about f lb. each. The varieties thus grown are the Eoyal Muscadine, Black Hamburgh, and the Syrian. The Terrace Flower Garden. This, properly so called, lies on the east side of the castle, andin outline is of a somewhat semi-circular form, surrounded by a raised broad terrace walk. On the garden side of this terrace is a steep bank of velvety turf, and on the other side a perpen- dicular stone wall. The beds are all geometrical in style, and are laid out on a soft and excellent carpet of turf. Spacious and well-kept gravel walks intersect and surround this garden, the centre of which contains a fountain and basin, whilst by means of handsome stone steps an easy communication is maintained between it and the surrounding terrace. The middle of some of the largest beds, most distant from the castle, is filled with tall hardy and sub-tropical plants edged with dwarfer subjects, and these do good service in the way of toning down and softening the brilliant effect produced by several carpet beds and others massed with Pelargoniums, Calceo- larias, and ordinary bedding plants. Amongst the hardy plants thus employed, are the finer sorts of Yews, Hollies, and Cypresses, also the Arundo Donax, and a few other herbaceous plants. Amongst these are mixed Cannas, Castor-oil plants, and similar subjects, the ground between them being carpeted with Tropasolums and Petunias. The advantage of having these shrubs planted permanently in the flower-beds consists in their utility both in winter and spring, when, with the addition of some bulbous and other spring-blooming plants, they look almost as cheerful as they do in summer and autumn. The carpet bedding is exquisite and the patterns tasteful and well defined. The material with which they are fiUed consists chiefly of Golden Feverfew, Mangles's variegated and crimson variegated Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums, well pegged down, and also other dwarf and choice kinds of bicolor and tricolor Pelargoniums. The beautiful Fern-like leaved 308 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 23, 1876. variegated Polemonium coeruleum forms likewise an important constituent in the composition, as do likewise the various kinds of Alternantheras, compact-growing Lobelias, Coleuses, Iresines {particularly I. Lindeni), Centanrea ragusina, Eche- verias, Sedums, and others. The Centaurea ragusina stands out in bold relief in the form of large individual specimens, somewhat over 2 ft. in diameter, and it is also used as an edging to some of the large beds. Yellow Calceolarias thrive and flower wonderfully well in this garden, as do also some of the more brilliant and free-flowering Pelargo- niums, such as Stella, Cybister, Attraction, Madame Euders- dorff, Waltham Seedling, Lucius, &c. At the north end are some beds filled with hardy Heaths, such as Erica vagans, intermedia, carnea, and herbacea, and immediately in front of the castle is a magnificent vase, a counterpart of the celebrated Warwick vase, filled with little evergreens. The retaining wall supporting the terrace, adjoining the castle and facing the flower garden is draped with climbing and trailing plants, such as Clematises, Wistaria sinensis, Banksian Eoses, Fuchsias, Magnolias, Pomegranates, &o., and along its base is a mixed border containing hardy herbaceous and other plants. At the end of this wall and under the east terrace walk is the old Orangery, which is now converted into a conservatory, con- taining large evergreens in tubs, such as Camellias, Allspice, Camphor, and Laurel trees, and in winter it forms a storehouse for bedding plants. The more tender of the latter are, however, propagated, sheltered, and otherwise cared for elsewhere. The Fruit Houses in the Koyal Gardens. These are well furnished with Vines and other fruit trees, all in excellent condition. The varieties of Peaches grown in- doors here are Royal George, Noblesse, and Stirling Castle, the last highly appreciated, and a well-known kind described in Scott's " Orohardist," but not named in the " Fruit Manual." In one of the Vineries here replanted last year the young canes, when in full growth, made about five joints every week, or abont 1 ft. of wood every seven days. The varieties consist principally of Black Hamburgh and Foster's White Seedling. Another house of old Vines has been partly replanted, so that but little loss of fruit is experienced, half the old Vines being left to fruit until the young canes come into bearing, when the old rods will be cut away. On Muscats, West St. Peter's, Black Hamburgh, and Lady Downe's, we noticed heavy crops. These constitute the principal kinds grown here, but, for the sake of variety, single rods of other sorts are intermingled with them, such as Madresfield Court, Gros Colman, Duke of Buccleuch, and others. Some of the older Vines are being renovated by bringing up fresh rods from the bottom, which in time will take the places of the old Vines. In one large house, consisting of Lady Downe's, Alicante, West St. Peter's, Barbarossa, and Gros Colman, the crop of fruit is heavy, and excellent in quality. Large bunches are not aimed at here, the main object being to obtain even crops of medium-sized, large-berried clusters. As regards treatment it does not differ materially from that practised in other establishments ; liberal use is made of liquid manure from the farm-yard, and the borders are mulched 2 in. thick with half-rotten manure, the object being to preserve a moist surface, and at the same time not to put on such a covering as would materially shut out sun-heat. Pot Vines here are now maturing sturdy, short-jointed canes outside, but the early pot Vine pit is being got ready, as forcing will be commenced in a few weeks. A feature of some interest here is a couple of Plum-houses from which fruit is obtained before that on the wall is fit to gather. The system o£ culture is nearly the same as that adopted for Peaches, the varieties being Victoria, JofEerson, and Washington. On the back wall of one of those houses a sti-ong plant of the purple-fruited Guava (Psidium Cattleyanum) is now carrying a heavy crop. Pines are a special feature at Frogmore. The varieties grown are the Smooth and Prickly Cayennes for main crops, and a few Queens for summer consumption. The system of culture adopted here is rather a novel one, but is in every way successful. The Pmes are planted out in brick pits, the soil used being a rich fibrous loam, which scarcely any amount of moisture will render .sodden or sour. The beds below the soil in which the Fines are planted consist o£ Oak loaves about 3 ft. in thickness, and during the winter and spring additional heat is obtained by means of linings of stable manure or manure and leaves. Thus situated the plants make such vigorous growth that some of the thick, rigid leaves measure fully 4 in. across, and the fruit often weighs from 8 lb. to 9 lb. each. The heaviest fruit of the Prickly Cayenne grown here weighed 9 lb. 14 oz. The splendid Pines so often sent to the metropolitan exhibitions from Frogmore are all grown in brick pits on this plan, the secret of success being the rich and excellent soil employed, and the genial heat afforded by the Oak leaves. The last crops of Melons are just beginning to change colour, the varieties grown being Beechwood, Royal Ascot, Bromham Hall, and others. As soon as these are cut the beds will be renovated, and plants oE Cucumbers for winter fruiting brought in to replace them. Cucumbers are now being grown in a large span-roofed glass- sided orchard-house, of which the accompanying is a sketch. Span-roofea glass-sided Orohard-Uonse. The kind grown is Hedsor, a vigorous and prolific variety, which deserves to become better known than it is wherever fruit is required in quantity. As shown in our sketch, the plants rise from the ground-level, the only preparation being slightly raised borders of fibrous loam and a little rotten manure. Scarcely any fire-heat is given, yet the plants have made luxuriant and cleanly growth, some of the leaves being fully 14 in. in diameter, while fruit of excellent quality is being produced, from the very base of the plants upwards. As soon as this crop is over, the house is devoted to the produc- tion of early Cherries in pots, these being at present ont-of- doors in a sunny border. Plant Houses. These are well arranged and stocked with fresh and healthy flowering and flne-foliaged plants, of which large quantities are required for decorative purposes at the Castle and elsewhere. Camellias are in most cases planted out, and in one of the large houses the central bod is filled with vigorous specimens well set with buds, and which promise to supply plenty of flowers for cutting. The varieties are principally Double White and Fimbriata, with a few of the coloured kinds for variety. One end of this house is a perfect thicket of the mauve- tinted Bougainvillca gl.ibra intermixed with Plumbago coerulea, Tea Roses being planted out in front and trained up the roof. Another plant largely grown here for cut bloom during tho winter months is the common Heliotrope, which is found to answer better and flower more freely than many of the so-called improved varieties. Some plants of this are trained on the back wall of a moderately warm Peach-house, and are spurred baok to the old rods during July or a little later jnat Sept. 23, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 309 like Vines. The result is an outburst of young shoots, each of which flowers freely through the winter and spring. Crotons, Palms, Ferns, Cyperus, Curculigo, Pandanus, and Aralias are largely grown as table plants in small pots, and these at the time of our visit were in excellent condition. Gardenias for cut flowers are found to succeed best planted out on beds near the glass in a warm, humid atmosphere, and in the same house the pearly-white Stephanotis is trained on the roof and flowers freely. The stages in one of the houses here are tastefully fringed with Ferns and Isolepis, among which the graceful Torenia asiatica is mingled with excellent effect. In another and cooler house we met with the new Fuchsia procumbens, which depends from the pots 3 ft. or more, its slender shoots being clothed with cordate foliage and bright red egg-shaped fruit. Some of the decorative plants are found to succeed best planted out during summer, and this is especially the case with Bouvardias and the scarlet-berried looking well, as were also Chrysanthemums and other winter- blooming plants. The Fruit Walls. The walls which bound and intersect the fruit and kitchen gardens here are covered with well- trained trees, most of which at the time of our visit were carrying good crops of fine fruit. All the standard varieties of Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, Plums, Cherries, and Pears are to be found on these walls, together with many varieties of sterling merit which have been raised at Frogmore, and which have not yet got into general cultivation elsewhere. On these walls Peaches and Nectarines may be said to hold the post of honour, and splendid crops are now gathered from them, a result in a great measure due to the careful manner iu which the trees are protected in spring. This is one of the great secrets of successful Peach culture in this country, and to the neglect of protective measures or shelter View of Frogmore House, with Salisburia adiantifolia in the foregronnd. {Drawn by Alfred Dawson from a photograph by Temon Heath). Solanums. Some bushy plants of S. capsicastrum were fully 2 ft. in diameter, and profusely laden with ripening fruit. Bouvardia jasminiflora and the rosy B. Vreelandi had also made a fresh and vigorous growth, and were flowering freely in the open borders, from which, however, they will shortly be lifted, and potted for winter blooming indoors. Poinsettias and Epiphyllums were looking well, the latter being very useful for decorative purposes grown in small pots, while Poinsettia heads can be cut for table decoration or other uses. Among the plants grown for cut flowers or as flowering decorative plants we noted Cypripedium insigne, C. barbatum, C. venustum. Begonia Dregei, B. manicata, B. nitida, Den- drobium nobile, Eucharis amazonica, Lycaste Skinneri, Odontoglossum Alexandra, Ccelogyne cristata, and the old blue-flowered Eranthemum pulchellum. Ardisias are found to be very useful for winter decorations, and two-year-old seed- lings are now about 1 ft. high, a tier of bright red berries being surmounted by a crown of glossy leaves. Primulas were of some kind may be attributed not only light crops, but also in some instances the premature decay of the trees. If the large Peach growers at Montreuil and other districts near Paris which have a mean annual temperature of 2° above that of London, find it necessary and advantageous to afford shelter to their trees during the spring months, how much more necessary must protection be in English gardens, especially in the Midland and Northern districts, on cold clay sub-soils. On some noble trees of "Walburton Admirable we observed some splendid fruit, each certainly not less than 8 oz. in. weight, and beautifully coloured ; these will be followed by Salwey, which has not yet begun to colour, and which will carry the supply on until November, if the autumn continue sunny and mild. The Salwey is generally thought to be the latest Peach in cultivation, but such is not the case, for the Belle de St. Geslin, of French gardens, ripens a fortnight later than it does in a cold orchard-house, and is a better look- ing Peach. We noticed a small tree of the Stanwick Necta- 310 THE GARDEN. [Sept. £3, 1876- rine bearing fine fruit ; this tree had been sheltered from rain during summer, in order to prevent the fruit from cracking, a fault to which this delicious Nectarine is liable on damp soils. In an orchard-house it succeeds admirably. This variety is one of the parents of most of the superior new Nectarines recently sent out from Sawbridgeworth. The Eoyal George Peach does unusually -well here, being freer from mildew than in most places ; and we also noted a good crop of the Frogmore Golden Peach, which is considered to be one of the very best of all the yellow-fleshed varieties. On the Nectarine wall there is now a good crop, consisting of Elruge.Yiolette Hative, Olden- Peach-trce Protector. burgh, andother standard varieties. Among seedling Nectarines raised at Frogmore we remarked Prince of Wales, said to be an excellent sort for late work ; and the Frogmore Scarlet, another highly-coloured seedling, is also deserving of notice. The manner in which Peaches and other wall trees are sheltered and protected from spring frosts or cold rains at Frogmore deserves particular notice. The protection used consists of a glazed coping, which projects from the upper part of the wall, as shown in the accompanying sketch. This is supported by Bocket for Protection Post. bars or struts, which are firmly imbedded in the masonry and pinned fast to the woodwork of the coping. In front upright posts are fixed at about 9 ft. apart, their lower extremities being set in cast-iron sockets buried nearly level with the soil of the border, and the spaces between these posts are filled up with canvas blinds, which can be raised or lowered at pleasure by means of pulleys fixed at intervals along the front beading of the coping. These protections afford nearly all the advantage of a glass-covered Peach wall, and they are much less costly ; if, as frequently happens while the trees are in bloom, wo have a few days of rough weather, buotv, or cold rains, and the blinds are allowed to remain down, sufficient light is admitted by the glass coping, and as the blinds are nearly 2 ft. from the trees there is no danger of high winds flapping them against the blossoms as often happens when canvas blinds are fixed too near the face of the wall. As soon as all danger from frost is over, say in May or June, the uprights and blinds are removed, leaving the self-supporting coping overhead. Long spaces of wall are hero devoted to Moorpark and other Apricots, young Pears of the finer kinds being used as intermediates. One variety of Apricot, raised here and called the Early Frogmore, is found to be the earliest of all known varieties by nearly a fortnight ; it is under average in size, but it is well worth a place on account of its earliness, productiveness, and good flavour. Pears are largely grown on different aspects, and it is singular to notice how very variable the produce of the same variety from different posi- tions is not only in size, colour, and flavour, but also in time of ripening. About sixty varieties are cultivated here, and among them, as a matter of course, all the best standard kinds. Among the newer sorts were several of the Rev. Mr. Huyshe's seedlings and others which have been raised at Frogmore, the best of which perhaps is British Queen. A small tree of Madame Treyve bore seven splendid fruit ; Pitmaston Duchess was also well represented, and is perhaps the most showy Pear of the Marie Louise type. Among Pears now in season may bo named Late Jargonelles, Williams' Bon Chretien, and others. Late Pears appear especially abundant here, Beurre Kanco, Fondante d'Automne, Easter Beurre, Gansel's Bergamot, Josephine de Malines, Beurre Bachelier, and others, bringing forward excellent crops. Of Plums there is a fair sprinkling, consisting of Gages, Victorias, and such sorts as Jeiierson, Kirke's, Washington, Reine Claude de Bavay, Coe's Golden Drop, Late Red, and others of nearly eqiial merit. Some of -the old trees are beginning to fail at their extremities, but intermediates are being planted on other walls to replace them, when the old Plums will in their turn give place to Pears. This rotation of crops, although tolerably well understood in the case of vegetables or cereals, is often lost sight of in that of fruit culture. On the same plan old Cherries will give place to young Pears, while they will be succeeded by Plums, and so on. Of Cherries, which are largely grown here, fruit is gathered from June until November, and at the time of our visit (September 9) we found some splendid fruit of Morellos and Late Dukes still on the walls. In the case of one of the trees of Late Duke our attention was directed to a branch on which the fruit had not as yet finished colouring, while that on other parts of the tree was fully ripe ; if, therefore, this sport can be perpetuated by budding, a still later variety of the Late Duke may be obtained than that which we now possess. One of the outer walls has been devoted to the culture of cordon Gooseberries and Currants for a supply of late dessert fruit; and the young trees, although only two years old from cuttings, have made good progress. It is to be regretted that north walls are not more utilised in this way than they are, inasmuch as the result would be fresh Gooseberries and Currants, useful in August and September, long after the main crops were over. From the small size of the trees they are admirably adapted for intermediates between Morollo Cherries or Pears ; in fact, they might be planted on every spare yard of wall where there is not room for other fruits. The Fruit Eoom. To all large establishments the fruit-room and packing-shed form important adjuncts, and this is especially the case at Frogmore, where great quantities of choice fruits must be stored. The fruit-rooms here are airy and well ventilated, and capable of holding immense quantities of fruit. They are fur- nished with lathwork shelves around the sides and tables in the centre. Here we saw largo quantities of choice Gage, Victoria, and other Plums, Peaches, Nectarines, &c., being Eaoked for a journey to Balmoral. When tender fruits have to e sent such long distances, it is of course necessary that the packing bo skilfully performed. Of the way in which this is done at Frogmore the accompanying illustration will give some idea. The size of the boxes, which are made of wood, is a matter of but little moment, but the trays must be made to fit neatly into their places, and may be deep for Grapes and Sept. 23, 1876.] THE GAEDEN. 311 Peaches, and shallow for Plums, Strawberries, Cherries, and other small fruits. In the case of Plums each fruit is wrapped in part of a Vine leaf and the whole closely packed in the trays, so that any movement or displacement is impossible. The trays are placed in the larger compartment of the box, as re- presented, and the smaller compartment is used for miscel- laneous vegetables, herbs, and other produce not so liable to Packing box for f ru t, injury. Very little packing material is used, the fruits being packed iirmly and neatly together, the bottom of one tray forming, as it were, a lid for the one below it. A pad of cotton wool is placed on the top tray, and the lid of the box when shut presses the whole firm and tight. The Eitehen Gardens. These were formed about thirty-two years ago, and cover about 30 acres, which are enclosed and intersected by some 6 miles of fruit-tree walls. The borders along the sides of the walks are planted principally with Apples, which are for the most part trained balloon-fashion, the points of their branches being all directed towards the ground. Some of these trees, even in this comparatively fruitless year, are bearing good crops, and one variety, viz., the Rosemary Kusset, a valuable winter dessert Apple, was pointed out to us as having never missed a crop during the past thirty years. Eibston Pippin, Wyken Pippin, and other well-known kinds, are also doing well. Some young trees, trained in the form of a column, and worked on the Doucin and other dwarfing stocks, are now bearing very fine fruit. Standard Apples, Pears, and Plums have also done fairly well here this season, some, indeed, bearing heavy crops. Among Plums for preserving purposes we found a long row of the German Prune, or Zeutzen as it is called at Frogmore, but in other gardens the Quetsche Plum. This is a sure bearer, and a kind which is well worth growing for market purposes, being much larger than the Damson ; like the latter, too, it comes true from seed. Strawberries are extensively cultivated at Frogmore ; indeed, there cannot be less than 2 acres under this crop ; and among the different varieties grown it has been found that those with pubescent leaves, such as British Queen, Dr. Hogg, and others, do not succeed so well as smooth-leaved kinds. The best are La Grosse Sucree and Prince of Wales, two of the earliest for out-door crops. The kind called James Veitch bears very large fruit, each berry sometimes weighing 3 oz. or 4 oz. ; indeed, four fruits of this variety have been produced here which weighed 1 lb. Fairy Queen is another distinct and productive variety ; it is one of the many seedling Strawberries that have been raised at Frogmore, and an excel- lent kind it is, so productive that even the joints of the young runners produce clusters of flowers throughout the spring and autumn. Other kinds grown here are Cockscomb, Frogmore Late Pine, Sir Charles Napier, Keen's Seedling, British Queen, President, and Lucas. The system of culture adopted is to plant in rows 2i ft. apart on a piece of open, well-tilled ground, to mulch throughout the summer with half-rotten manure, to plant a fresh plot every year, and to grub up the four or five year old plants regularly. The ground on which these grow, after being manured and trenched, or dug, is then devoted to other crops. By this rotation the ground never becomes exhausted by any one crop. This practice also greatly assists in keeping wireworm and other destructive pests in check, inasmuch as they never have time to thoroughly establish themselves. Among vegetables we noticed some extensive plots of Coleworts and Brussels Sprouts in fine condition, and about 3 acres of Potatoes, which this year promise to ripen without being affected by the disease. They consisted of Mode of Protecting early border Vegetables. Fortyfold, York Regent, Myatt's Ashleaf, Dunbar Regent Old Ashtop Kidney, Bryanston Kidney, Dalmahoy, and Milky White. Blinkworth Challenge, a large white kidney, does splendidly here, some of the tubers weighing considerably more than 1 lb., but what is of more importance the general crop is of good average size, clean, and shapely. A simple and efiec- tive plan of sheltering early Potatoes, French Beans, Lettuce, Endive, Radishes, and other early crops from spring frosts, is here adopted. Stout pegs are driven into the ground in rows along the border, leaving their tops level, and about 1 ft. or more above the surface. On these laths or long strips of deal are nailed, as shown in our sketch ; and on this readily constructed Section of Masbroom-sbea. framework a covering of tifiany or scrim canvas is fastened with tin tacks and leather wads, the latter being used to keep the heads of the tacks from slipping through or tearing such light material. These coverings keep oS several degrees of frost, and what is of nearly equal importance, cold cutting winds. They are easily applied, and soon repay their cost by the earliness and superior quality of the produce grown under them. Early Potatoes have been obtained from these pro- tected borders at a time when the market price of such pro- duce was from 9d. to Is. per lb. Of Beet, Horseradish, and Seakale for forcing we noticed thriving plantations, and also an extensive quarter of Celery, which is grown in short rows 312 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 23, 1876, across the ridges. No fallow ground is ever to be seen here, for directly one crop is cleared oS another is planted as soon as the necessary preparation for it has been made. Tomatoes on walls have done well this warm summer. The variety Krown here is a very prolific and handsome selec- tion, evidently from the old red type. Mushrooms, which are largely in demand for culinary purposes, are produced here in abundance from a bed made up in an ordinary barrow shed ; indeed, wherever a little of the manure had been allowed to lie on the floor of the shed, milk-white buttons were appearing in great abundance. This bed was made up in the ordinary way, and is fully exposed to the light. Our sketch shows a section of this bed, and of the shed in which it is placed, by which it will be seen that the expensive appliances recommended as essential to Mushroom culture are often unnecessary. B. GATE LODGES IN THE PARKS. At this season of the year many residing in remote country districts take a trip to London to inspect the floral decorations in the parks with the view of gleaning some useful lesson for future guidance ; and, as far as my observations have extended, great credit is due aa regards the improved aspect and general good keeping of these (if I may be allowed the term) noble institntions. But amongst hints as to what to adopt I have also made note of something to avoid, and notably the floral decoration connected with gate lodges, which would certainly not pass current for good taste in the country. The gate lodge occupies such a conspicuous position both on entering and leav- ing parks, both public and private, that the style of floral decora- tion adopted cannot fail to attract the attention of every visitor. The entrances to coontry mansions are usually overhung by lofty trees and half hidden among creepers, and the display of " bedding out " is generally confined to one or two large clumps or masses of brilliantly. coloured plants. But around the lodges of the London parks, in addition to carpet beds in profusion usually skilfully planted, there is in most cases such an array of ordinary bedding plauts in rows of red flower-pots, that one stands aghast, wondering whether it is the plants or the pots that are intended for exhibition. Except in the most primitive cottage windows, we have nothing approaching such a display of bad taste in the country. An object in floral decorations of all kinds is to conceal the existence of pots as effectually as possible, so that whether in plant-houses or in groups temporarily arranged, nothing should meet the eye but masses of living verdure. Where flowers are considered necessary in windows, boxes are far better than rows of pots, which suggest a cottage flower show, and rob the stateliest edifice of half its grandeur, while plants set in full sunshine in nnproteoted pots tell their own tale as regards the severe battle for life which they have to fight ; they should be plunged in some non-conducting material, so that the usually not over-abundant labour may be economised and expended on objects more worthy of attention. James Geoosi. The Rose of Jericho. — In a recent number of the "Garten- flora" a notice is given of a curious, but not by any means newly- discovered, annual inhabiting the sandy regions of Syria and North Africa, the Anastatioa hierochontica, better known as the Rose of Jericho. The remarkable point about it is the curious and admirable adaptation ct its habits to the very bard circumstances under which it exists. A mere annual in a desert has not much chance of per- petuating its existence, but this plant manages to do it. As soon as its seeds are well formed the leaves fall, the branches cnrl round and make a ball round the seed-vessel, and the roots soon become loosened. Then comes the wind and makes a football of it, hither and thither. During this time the seed-vessels remain closed, but the first rain causes the branches to unfold and the seed.pods to open. This is its chance, and a brief one, for the continued reproduction of an annual plant on the shifting sands of the desert must be speedy germination and quick growth. The strange prickly, almost or quite leafless, shrubs and nnder-shrubs charaoteristio of the desert flora retain their vitality for years, alternately buried beneath the sand and exposed to the influences of the sun and air, but an annual plant would probably soon become extinct under the same conditions. According to a writer in the periodical above mentioned, seeds of the Rose of Jericho sown about five o'clock in the afternoon had ger. minatod by one o'clock on the following day, and their rootlets had already pierced the soil. These seeds were taken from a plant pur. chased at the Vienna Exhibition, and twelve out of fifteen germinated lu the time mentioned in a pot covered over with a saucer, and standing in an ordinary living room. So exquisite an accommodation to the neoessities of its position is very striking. BORONIAS. (with a colouked figure of B. ELiTIOa.) One of the best proofs of the healthy growth of horticulture lies in the fact that many old and neglected genera are again becoming popular. During the past few years, great numbers of new plants have been introduced, the majority of which are remarkable chiefly for the beauty of their foliage, but, although. beautiful leaves may captivate the eye, a lack of flowers in a stove, and especially in a greenhouse or conservatory, is often felt to be a grievous loss, a fact which many will fully endorse ; in spite of this, however, little has of late years been done by plant collectors to introduce good flowering plants for the green- house, and even less has been done by cultivators to uphold the merits of those which we already possess. In my younger days a well-grown collection of hard-wooded plants vras con- sidered to be the chief ornament of a greenhouse, but now, with a few praiseworthy exceptions, we look in vain for the beautiful flowers of Hoveas, Pimeleas, Chirouias, Lesche- naultias, Daviesias, Boronias, and plants of a similar character ; indeed, many of the best of these are now unknown to young cultivators of the present day, and whilst we have dis- carded so many of these beautiful-flowering plants, we have done nothing towards adequately supplying their places ; we therefore find it necessary to fall back upon Cape and New Holland plants again. Doubtless one of the chief reasons for relinquishing the cultivation of such plants is their compara- tively slow growth, and the time required to form a handsome, well-developed specimen. Past-growing subjects crowd upon us year after year, each being more beautiful than its prede- cessor; but yet the true plant-lover finds an irreparable blank in the loss sustained by the thrusting out of many of his old favourites ; two new species of Boronias that have lately been brought into notice will therefore be welcomed with unusual interest. I allude to the beautiful sweet-scented B. megastigma, and the subject of our illustration, B. elatior. The genus Boronia includes about fifty-seven species and several varieties, all of which are extremely beautiful ; they are natives of Australia, and are consequently what are termed greenhouse plants. Nevertheless, they enjoy a little additional warmth during winter and early spritig ; their culture is by no means difficult, the soil in which they thrive best being good, fibry, sandy peat intermixed with a small portion of light loam, and being mostly natives of barren, sandy localities, the drainage must be kept in good working order, as stagnant water about their roots is highly detrimental to them, although we are told that one or two species in their natural state seem equally at home in boggy and in sandy places. In some few instances B. serrulata and one or two others have been found difficult to keep in a thoroughly healthy condition, a circum- stance which I attribute to the use of hard spring water and waters strongly impregnated with iron, for sickly plants have been restored to perfect health by watering them with rain- water only. The following are a few of the best Boroniaa at present in cultivation : — Boronia elatior, faithfully rendered in our illustration, is a charming plant of quite recent introduction, and one which deserves to be grown in every collection of greenhouse plants, however small. It is a somewhat tall-growing shrub, having hirsute branches and pinnate, dark green leaves j its flowers, which are borne in profusion, and which last long in perfection, are rosy .red, and are produced in spring and early sammar. It is found in various parts of Western Australia. B. megastigma is an ereot.growing, twiggy shrub, with pin- nate leaves and narrow, smooth, dark green leaflets ; the pednncles bear a single large flower, which is deep purplish.brown outside and yellow within. It emits a delicious odour resembling that of Violets, and it blooms at various seasons. Native of Western Australia. B. alata. — This blooms during May and June, and is a native of various parts of Western Australia. It is usually smooth, but some- times slightly hairy and inclined to be glaucous on the upper surfaces, branches angular, leaves pinnate, leaflets oblong, obtuse, flowers large , borne in terminal cymes, and rosy-red in colour. B. ledifolia. — This species is subject to considerable variation j it is usually an erect plant, with slightly tomentose branches and THE ROSY BORONIA. B. ELATIOR ^ Sept. 23, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 313 trifoliate leaves ; leaflets linear-oblong, with revolute margins, smooth on the npper side, but clothed with a rusty tomentum beneath ; peduncles bearing a single rose.pink flower. Native o£ Port Jackson. B. Fraseri. — A neat-branohing shrub, which usually attains a height of about 3 ft. The branches, which are smooth, bearing pinnate leaves, the leaflets being distant, and the terminal one much the longest ; the leaves are oblong-lanceolate, smooth, deep green above, but paler below ; flowers bright-red, borne in umbels of from four to sis upon short peduncles. It blooms late in spring. Native of New South Wales. B. pulchella.^ — This is an elegant species, which attains a height of from 2 ft. to 3 ft. ; branches slightly pubescent, leaves pinnate, leaflets linear-obtuse, pale green above ; flowers large, bright rosy- pink. It blooms during May and June, and is a native of Western Australia. B. pinnata. — This is a somewhat variable plant, with slightly angular branches, bearing pinnate glabrous leaves ; leaflets usually in three or four pairs (the terminal leaflet long), linear-acute, or oblong- lanceolate ; flowers large, from three to four on a peduncle rosy-pink, very fragrant ; blooms in spring. It is a native of New South Wales. B. crenulata. — A compact-growing shrub, which attains a height of from 2 ft. to 3 ft. ; leaves somewhat cuneate, coriaceous, and slightly toothed on the upper edge ; Ipedunole'mostly bi-flowered ; colour reddish-pink. It blooms during June and July, and is a native of Western Australia. B. serrulata. — This resembles the preceding species, but is larger and more robust ; leaves closely set, entire, obovate, serrulate on the upper side, coriaceous, and bright green ; flowers large, rosy. red, and very fragrant. It blooms in spring and early summer. Native of Port Jackson. W. H. G. MY DIAKT FOR SEVEN TEARS. By W. DENNING. September 25. — Sowing — Seeds for another crop of Cucumbers, to be ready to plant on the 20th December. Potting np " show " and young autumn-struck variegated Pelargoniums ; also Calceo- larias, Snowdrops, Crocuses, Van Thol Tulips, and remainder of Boman Hyacinths. Miscellaneoiis — Putting Caladiums on back flue to dry off ; also pot Violets into a frame ; Primulas into a heated pit ; tree Carnations into pits, and the earliest Cinerarias into a position near the glass. Planting more Roses for button-hole bouquets in a pit, the sorts being Isabella Sprunt, Cheshunt Hybrid, Devoniensia, Safrano, Niphetos, Madame Taloot, and Mme. Van Houtte. Netting Coe's Golden Drop Plums on a north wall. Syringing young Vines with sulphur-water, to prevent mildew. Gathering Ribston Pippin Apples, and more Louise Bonne of Jersey Pears from espaliers. Thrashing some Walnuts. Gathering button Mushrooms for pickling. Digging ground for Cabbage and Lettuce ; clipping Tew hedges ; hoeing among young Strawberry plants. Spinach, and Endive. Sept. 26. — Potting — Schizanthus, also a few Gem Nastur- tiums for early spring work ; putting Callag into pits ; also under glass all bedding plant cuttings struck out-of-doors. Planting Violets in frame. Making up gaps in Cabbage bed ; training and cleaning conservatory creepers ; Peaches and Plums out-of.doors nearly over j hoeing among Winter Greens ; picking over Rose garden; beginning to cover late French Beans out-of-doors at night. Sept. 27. — Shifting young flowering Cinerarias ; taking up all bedding plants intended to be saved ; putting greenhouse plants under cover. Planting Cabbages sown on the 6th of August ; pricking out Cabbages for spring planting ; staking Heliotropes. Miscella. neous — Gathering Napoleon, Beurre d'Aremberg, Moorfowl Egg, and Bergamot Pears, also Brown Beurre and Gansel's Bergamot, and finished gathering Marie Louise Pears; digging border for more Spinach ; earthing-np fourth row of White Celery fully and one row of Red ; keeping French Beans about 60S at night if the nights be cold, and Cucumbers about 70° ; giving Odontoglossum.house a little heat — night cold ; Tuberoses throwing up flower-spikes. Sept. 28. — Sowing a border of Spinach which will prove useful in spring ; getting under cover all tree Carnations showing flower, all Dr. Lindley and other Pelargoniums in flower, the white and yellow Chrysanthemums, and putting Bouvardias in heat for drawing-room decoration ; taking up Centaureas, Carnations, Sorophluarias, and Gazanias, and potting them. Shifting stocks into flowering pots. Mis- cellaneous— Tying up Mignonette in pots, and giving tree Mignonette a good tie in ; bunching np Basil and Marjoram ; washing Orange trees ; gathering Wine-soar Plums, also Crassane, Bergamot, Napoleon, Thompson's, Louise Bonne, Jalousie de Fontenay, and Louise Bonne of Jersey Pears ; sorting seed Potatoes ; cleaning Stanhopeas ; looking over Dendrobiums again for thrips ; cleaning out the flues of Mush, room shed and orchard house ; salting walks. Sept. 29. — Potting — Batemannia and Pescatorea in peat, fibre, and Sphagnum ; shifting Hnmeas and Schizanthus into 8-in. pots ; removing all Peach trees in pots from the orchard-house and putting in Chrysanthemums. Miscellaneous — Giving Mushroom-bed a sprinkling of water and covering it with hay ; cutting flowers of Gardenias and Violets, both of which are in excellent condition ; beginning to add to Vine borders ; preparing ground for early Peas ; getting a good piece of ground dug for Lettuces ; making a new Mushroom.bed ; manuring and digging ground for Carrots to lay all winter in order to try to avoid grubs ; top-dressing early Vinery border ; fully thinning the latest Turnips ; looking among Odonto- glossums for thrips ; Cucumbers should not be kept higher than about 70° at night. Sept. 30. — Planting — Lily of the Valley, Guernsey and Bella donna Lilies, Schizostylis, and Spireeaa in sheltered positions ; also Cucumbers to come on in January. Miscellaneous — Making up con. servatory baskets with Selaginella, Heliotropes, Centaurea gymno- carpa. Fuchsias, and RoUisaon's Unique, scarlet, and Ivy-leaf Pelar. goniums ; taking Dendrobium cretaceum and D. primulinum out of East Indian house ; shifting Spiraea palmata ; tying Anne Boleyn pinks set with flower-buds, and placing them under cover ; netting the Pellemberg Plum ; finished gathering Reinette du Canada Apples ; gathering the last of the Apricots ; digging alleys between Asparagus beds. Flowers in hloom — Heaths, Justicias, Violets, Mignonette, Bouvardias, scarlet, French, and double Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, Anemones, Clove and other Carnations, Nemophilas, Roses, Tuberoses, Gardenias, Pansies, Spiroaas, Stephanotis, Stocks, Calceolarias, Fuchsias, Hydrangesis, Lobelias, Cockscombs, Petunias, Myrtles, Musk, blue Cornflowers, Sweet Peas, Lilium auratum and L. lancifolium, Balsams, Begonias, Asters, and Rhodanthes. THE AMATEUR'S GARDEN. By THOMAS BAINIiS. Preparation must now be made for immediately getting in hard- wooded plants, such as Heaths, Epacrises, Genistas, and all others of a similar character. These will not suffer injury out. of. doors so long as there is no frost or excessive rains ; but on the appearance of either, all subjects like the above-named should be housed at once. A little judgment should be exercised in arranging them in their winter quarters, for although they all need as much light as can be afforded them, the Heaths should have the lightest, most airy, and coolest end of the house ; and any of the more deli- cate hard-wooded subjects should have plenty of light and be put where the temperature will be somewhat warmer than that in which the Heaths are placed. Genistas and Epacrises will thrive where there is not quite so much light as required by the former plants. Examine all before they are taken in the house to see that they are free from aphides, red spider, and thrips, for if any of these insects only exist in small numbers, they will ultimately leave quantities of eggs that will come to life in the spring. Washing with weak Gishurst water (about 2 oz. to the gallon) will be found the beat means to get rid of red spider and thrips ; Tobacco fumigation is the most convenient remedy for destroying aphides on all hard-wooded Camellias should also be at once got into their vrinter quarters ; they likewise will succeed in a position where there is less light than many hard-wooded subjects. Nothing adds more to the appearance of these plants than keeping the leaves clean ; it is also essential to their health that no accumulations of dust be allowed upon them, for if they be at all affected with brown scale the dirt will stick to the glutinous excrement of the insect, and this, if not removed, will cause the foliage to turn yellow and fall off. If infested with white scale, the best implement for removing it from the wood is an ordinary tooth-brush, after which sponge the leaves one by one on both the upper and under surfaces. Wash the pots of all plants as they are taken inside, and remove any Moss that may have accumu. lated upon the soil. Pelargoniums, both large-flowered and fancy varieties, may yet remain out in cold pits or frames ; but the soil must not be allowed to get too wet through the lights being off ; the latter should now be on during the night and day, tilting them as the plants require air. 314 THE GARDEN. [Sept. 23, 1876. Kalosanthes ehonld be taten in ; towever well these have ripened through the summer they should be placed well up to the roof, or the under leaves near the base of the branches are liable to suffer ; give them no more water than what is necessary to keep the roots in a healthy state, but do not let them be so dry as to cause the plants to flag ; they are easily struck at any season, rooting from the smallest slip. If cuttings be now put in they will get established before winter, and make growth next summer considerably in advance of those struck in the spring : some of the weaker inside growths that are not likely to flower, the removal of which will in no way interfere with the next year's bloom, will answer for cuttings. Take them off about 5 in. or 6 in. long, strip the leaves from 2 in. of the bottom of the stems, and insert five or six of them close together in 4-in. pots filled with sifted loam to which has been added one-fourth of sand ; the pots must be well drained for either large or small specimens of Kalosanthes, as they cannot bear anything approaching stagnant moisture; give a little water, but do not cover the cuttings at all in the nsual way under propagating glasses, or they will be liable to damp. They will root in an ordinary greenhouse tempera- ture, but if there be a frame or pit a few degrees warmer the plants will thrive all the better. In the spring the points should be pinched out, and each pot of cuttings shifted entire into larger pots, as in this way they will make fair-sized plants for flowering the ensuing year. Bedding Plants. — The earlier inserted cuttings will by this time be rooted, and should have more air and as much light as possible daily, in order to harden them before winter. If any trace of mildew existed on the plants from which the Verbena cuttings were taken, it will have been almost certain to have made its appearance whilst they were kept close for the purpose of rooting. They should now be carefully examined, and, if any be found, dust them at once with flowers of sulphur ; the white varieties are most subject to it, but if care be taken through the autumn to apply sulphur as soon as the mildew is discovered, the pest may be com- pletely eradicated before spring propagation commences. The liability of these plants to suffer from mildew has caused many to give up their cultivation, yet they are more continuous in their blooming and less objectionably formal than many bedding subjects that have taken their place, with the additional advantage that they are most useful for cutting all through the late summer months when flowers are not superabundant. Celosias for autumn flowering that are now fast filling their pots with roots, must be well supplied with manure-water, the use of which for almost all plants that are required to bloom in compara- tively small pots is not sufiiciently understood. Keep them turned round to the light, which is not only necessary to preserve a uniform shape, but also to allow every part of the plants their full share of light, without which the leaves of those that are of a soft nature and short endurance are liable to fall off before the flowering is over, in which case the beauty of the plants is lost, for, however full of bloom a plant may be, without a sufficiency of healthy foliage it is shorn of half its attractiveness. Mushrooms. — There is no better time of the year than the present for amateurs who have not had much experience in Mush, room growing to commence operations ; for beds prepared at this season are more likely to succeed than when the weather is either warmer or colder ; another advantage is that in the latter part of the year they may bo grown in any moderately close shed or building ; neither is it necessary to have at command so much manure as many suppose. One of the most successful growers of Mushrooms I over knew always used half road-scrapings in a moderately dry state mixed with the stable manure ; beds so made are less liable to over, heat, and they retain the right degi-eo of moisture for a longer time than when made of manure alone. A cart-load of fresh stable manure with most of the long littery portion removed, will make a good bed, mixed with an equal quantity of loam or road-scrapings, whichever is most convenient at hand. First shake up tho manure well, putting it undercover; if there be not sufficient shed-room for the purpose, anything in the shape of shutters that will keep off the wet will answer ; when it has got warm by fermentation turn it over and mix the loam or road-sorapings with it, letting it remain for a few days, when the mixture will attain the requisite gentle heat ; it may then be made up in the usual way about 15 in. or 18 in. thick, beating it solid with the fork, and smoothing the top ; it is not likely to heat too much, yet it will be better to wait a few days before putting in the spawn ; a stick or two should be inserted to ascertain the heat of the bed, and when the heat begins to wane tho spawn may be laid on and covered with about 2 in. of fine soil, spread over and beaten Bniooth with the back of the spade. The advisability of covering it with litter or leaving it bare depends upon the situation of the bed ; if the place bo dark and can be shut np quite close bo as to preserve a humid atmosphere, it may be left bare, especially if there be snffl- cient fresh manure at command in the place where the bed is made, so as to emit a gentle heat. The manure 6o used can afterwards be made up into a bed, and that will afford a sucoessional crop. Where these conditions are not existent, it is better to cover the bed with about G in. of dry litter. Loam and Peat for Potting. — Where plants are grown, even of the commonest kinds, to give a reasonable chance for their successful development, the necessary soils for potting should be procured, and there is no time in the year when either loam or peat is in such good condition for laying up as in the early part of autumn. Next in importance to the essential elements naturally contained in the soil are the fibrous roots of the Grasses that have grown upon it. These, in the course of their decomposition, not only play an impor. tant part in furnishing food for the plants that are cultivated, but they act as a medium to keep the soil in a suSioiently open, poroua state, and the object of the cultivator should be to procure his soil for potting purposes when the roots of these Grasses are in the best matured and toughest condition, so as to secure as slow a decom. position as possible. A little reflection will suffice to show that these conditions must be more fully present at the end of the grow- ing season than at any other time. It is not well to dig any descrip- tion of potting soil when it is either very dry or very wet ; if laid together in the former state it is never in a sufliciently moist state for use, and if too wet it is equally unfit for use for months afterwards, but as soon as there has been sufficient rain to moisten it to the depth of 3 in. or 4 in., it should at once be got in and stacked up ridge-fashion ; in this way it will throw off the winter rains and not become too much saturated with wet. The best loam is of a yellow colour, and if it naturally contain a little sand all the better. Peat for pot plants should be of a brown colour, not the close, black, hard, or boggy stuff sometimes used ; both peat and loam are of the best quality where the Grasses they produce have grown the densest, for they will most assuredly contain the greatest amount of fibre. Potting soil is sometimes stacked up in covered sheds, but it is much better in the open air, unless when it is too wet for immediate use, in which case as much as will be wanted at once should be spread thinly in an open shed where the wind will be able to act upon it. Where plants are grown that require Sphagnum, it is well to get as much of this at the present time as will be needed for the year, for a severe frost sometimes injures it materially; if it be dried and put away in that condition, it will keep for a long time. It is as well also now to get in some silver sand ; this is best put in a dry place, for if the potting soil be too wet, the sand when mixed with it will help to dry it sufficiently for use. Greenhouses, The lateness of the season and the unsettled state of the weather render it unsafe to have choice plants any longer exposed, and they should therefore be housed at once, or means taken to shelter them from any rainfall that may now take place in case the glass structures are not ready for their reception. Before re-placing them in their winter quarters, see that each individual plant is entirely free from thrips and spider, or other insects to which they are liable, and if not no pains should be spared in rendering them so, or they will be sure to spread and entail much labour hereafter. The pots, too, should be thoroughly scrubbed and cleaned, so as to remove any accumulation of dirt or conferva that may have gathered on them while they have been standing out in the open air. The frequent use of manure.water which it is necessary to apply to some plants is sure to cause a thin filmy incrustation on the surface of the soil, which, if not removed, impermeably seals it from the air, and soon proves fatal to healthy root-action. Not only is this the case, but it is impossible to see when a plant requires water if allowed to remain in that state, and of all the causes that contribute to failure, there is none more general or effective in bringing it about than negligent, hap.hazard watering. It will then be readily seen how important it is to have the surface soil perfectly free from any matter likely to obstruct the air or to mislead as to the state of the ball of the plant. Even where clear, soft water is used, it is a common occurrence for the surface soil to become coated over with a minute, mossy, vegetable growth, and this often takes place with Heaths and Azaleas, or ether hard- wooded plants that have peat to grow in, on account of the large amount of vegetable such soils contain. In removing it from these great care should be exercised in scraping it away that the bark of the main roots does not become injured, as most of these will invariably be found close to the surface immediately contiguous to the collar of tho plant. Nothing pei'haps answers better in clearing such deposit away than the top of a broad wooden label, which from its blunt, soft nature, is less liable to erase the bark than an instrument of any other kind would be. As regards hard- wooded plants, in clearing it off it ia best not to stir or disturb SEtT. 23, 1876.] THE GARDEN. 315 the surface deeper or more than is absolutely necessary for removing the objectionable deposit, otherwise the roots will be interfered with and damaged without any good results being obtained. Light in great abundance is of the utmost importance to the health of plants during the winter months, and no better opportunity will be afforded than while the houses are empty to give the glass and woodwork a thorough washing and cleansing, in order that they may get as much as it is possible to have at that dull season. The laps of the glass become filled up by a deposit of dust, soot, and other matters that drift in from the outside and effect a lodgment, and this should be forced out by a free use of the syringe or garden engine, that any deposit of moisture on the inner surface during the winter may pass freely through instead of dripping on the inmates of the house, thereby causing injury. It is only on the observance of such trifling matters as these that success is assured in plant cultivation, and cleanliness ia quite as essential to their well-being, or even more so than it is to the animal creation. This being the case, it is of the utmost importance that Jthe leaves or lungs through which the plants breathe should be kept perfectly clean, for if these vital organs be choked up, they soon show symptoms of declining health, and if the cause be not removed, eventually die outright. Now that the growth is mature and the leaves thick and firm, most plants will stand a good washing from the garden engine, which may with advantage be given them before being housed it they show the least appearance of dirt, or have to be dipped in Tobacco water or other insecticide to free them from thrips or scale. The deposit the latter secretes on such large- leaved plants as Camellias, Orange trees, &c., can scarcely be removed without hand-washing, on account of the adhesive nature of the material they exude, and where any plants have been infested with these troublesome pests they should be thoroughly cleansed at once by giving them a good sponging with soap and water ; in short, it is icnpossihle to attach too much importance to cleanliness in plant cultivation, especially in preparing for the short, dull days that will soon be upon us, when every ray of light ia of value from the vivify, ing and purifying influence it carries with it. As fires will be shortly needed, the flues around the boilers and the main heading therefrom should be examined and cleaned out if necessary, in order that there may be no failure in the draught when frosty nights occur ; and to make sure on this head it is advisable to test the furnaces by lighting a fire once or twice before it is actually wanted. — J. Sheppabd. Orchids. It is highly important at all times that the night temperature of an Orchid.house should be from 5° to 10° lower than the day tempera, tare. Generally speaking, in all parts of the world throughout the whole year, with but few exceptions, the temperature in the open air gradually declines as night comes on, and continues to fall until just before sunrise, at which time, as a rule, it is at the lowest. This allows plants to take that nightly repose which is necessary to them. That plants rest during the night is forcibly shown by the closing up of the foliage of many of them, such as that of Mimosas, Acacias, some Marantas, &c. Unless the night temperature for plants under cultivation be properly restricted, they are sure to be injured; an occasional error in this direction may be of little consequence, but if persisted in the results wUl be serious. Many who are well aware of this fact unwittingly allow the night temperature to equal that of the day, and even the reverse of the proper order of things to take place from sheer inattention. The cultivator should frequently make himself acquainted with the night temperature of the houses by consulting the thermometer ; he can then regulate the heat accord, ingly by means of the valves, &c. In cold weather and in winter, when the heating apparatus is kept going more or less day and night, this is not difficult to do, but at the present time, when in the Cattleya-house artificial heat is only required at night and occasion, ally during the day, and in the cold Odontoglossum.honse where artificial heat should only be employed night or day, when the low temperature required cannot be maintained without it, it is more difficult to regulate. There are times when the heating apparatus ia only required to raise the temperature a few degrees, in order to permit of the ventilators being opened for the purpose of giving air. At other times the weather may be so mild as to render artificial heat unnecessary for some time in the cold Odontoglossum.honse; but when the weather turns cold, and it becomes absolutely necessary to employ artificial heat, the greatest care should be taken that the temperature does not get too high, the transition from a proper temperature maintained by solar heat to one of artificial heat being quite change enough for the plants to contend against, without the temperature being made excessive by artificial means ; this is inj urioua in the daytime but doubly so at night. Often in the early autumn, particularly in the Odontoglossum.houae, the cultivator has no need of artificial heat in the daytime ; but if the afternoon turn cold, he haa the heat turned on ; or if the house have a boiler to itself, the fire lighted, so as to obtain a little extra heat during the night. In such a case as this, and in others when fires are first started, or only occa. sionally used, the plants are frequently injured by excessive night temperature. It is by attending to minor details of this kind that a collection of Orchids is kept in good condition. — James O'Brien. rioTsrer Garden. The late heavy rains and cold, damp nights have already had a bad effect on most flowering plants, while, on the other hand, the beauty of those grown principally for the effect produced by their foliage has been considerably enhanced. This is particularly the case with such subjects as Alternantheras, ornamental-toliaged Pelargoniums, Echeverias, Sedums, Mysembryanthemum cordifolium variegatum, and Golden Pyrethrum, all of which now show their delicacy of colouring in the richest profusion. As the value of plants for flower garden decoration depends very much on the length of time they will last in nerfection, choice should now be made of such as show their good qualities, with a view to increasing the stock as rapidly as possible. To save having superfluous numbers of any particular kind the plan of bedding should at once be decided on, at least as regards the more important part of it, which can be better done at this season than any other, as the adaptability of the plants for par. ticular purpoaea develops itself in a more marked manner when seen growing side by side under the same conditions, than they do at any other time. It will be well, therefore, to make a careful inspection of the whole garden during the present month, and to note the various leading features of the different occupants of the beds, that a more pleasing com- bination may be carried out in any fresh arrangement that may take place. Stock plants of the more tender subjects used in bed. ding, such as Coleus, Iresine, Alternanthera, &o., should be got under cover at once, as it will not be safe to risk them out after this time. A dozen or two of each well established will afford an ample supply of cuttings in the spring, propagated at which time they make much better plants than any struck during the autumn. Such subjects as Lobelias, and the beautiful dwarf lavender-coloured Ageratum, are often very disappointing when raised from seed, on account of their irregular growth, the latter especially, showing a tendency to revert back to the original form. As both admit of such ready increase by cuttings in the spring, it is decidedly the most satisfac. tory way to propagate them, for which purpose the best and most distinct of each kind should now be selected. The somewhat delicate nature of the Ageratum renders it too tender to be wintered with the ordinary bedding subjects, and therefore any plants of it kept for stock should be accommodated with an intermediate temperature. The great heat and excessive dryness of the weather during July and August were anything but favourable to herbaceous plants, the growth and flowering of which have been sadly retarded and interfered with in consequence. The late rains have, however, had a moat beneficial effect on the autumn-blooming varieties, such as the various kinds of Asters, Anemone japonica, Statices, Tritoma TJvaria, Kudbeckias, Helianthna, Asclepias tuberosa, Phygelia oapensis, Sedum spectabile, aU of which are now in great beauty. Most kinds of annuala will ere this have become too shabby to be allowed to remain, unless for the purpose of perfecting their seed, which ia scarcely desirable on account of the cheap rate at which it can be purchased from those who grow it in quantities. The spaces from which the annuals are cleared should at once be fllled up with such useful and ahowy early.bloom. ing plants as Sweet Williams, Brompton Stocks, Wallflowers, Campanulas, and Pansiea, which ahould now be sufficiently strong for that purpose. Before planting thoroughly break up the ground and work in a good dressing of mild decomposed manure, which will add much to the strength and vigour of the plants, and enable them to produce a fine head of bloom. Gladiolus should now be relieved of their seed.vesaela by cutting away the flower.apikes as soon as the blooms become shabby, but in doing so every leaf should remain intact, aa their preservation ia of the utmost import, ance to assist in enlarging and maturing the balls. The thorough soaking the soil has now had after such a dry time will cause a rapid swelling in the budded portion of Briers, Manetti, and other Koae atocks, and it will thereiore be necessary to examine the ligatures that they may be loosened or removed as circumstances require. It is the practice with many Eose growers to shorten back the shoot containing the bud as soon as they find it has taken, but as the effect of this is to start it into growth it is not to be commended. In most cases it is much better for the buds to remain dormant till the spring, as there is not sufficient time for any wood they may make to become firm enough to stand the winter, unless the buds were inserted unusually early. Give every attention to gravel walks, which, owing to the late rains, may now be got in a thoroughly solid, sound condition, by a frequent application of the roller. Should worms 316 THE GARDEN. TSeit. 23, 1876. become troublesome, as they generally are at this season after being confined bo long below, a little salt scattered on the surface will soon rid the walka of their presence and give the gravel a clean, bright appearance. — J. Sheppakd, fToolverstcne Pari-. Hardy Fruit. Most kinds of Apples and Pears will soon be ready to gather, and the moment they seem ripe enough let it be done, as we may very ehortly eipect high winds, and nngathered ripe fruit will be either destroyed or fit for use only as wind.falls; on the other hand, none should be gathered until really fit to house. Pears, especially late kinds, if gathered too soon are rendered worthless, as they never ripen to be fit either for cooking or dessert, but shrivel and become hard and dry. A good criterion by which to decide whether a Pear is fit to gather or not is to gently raise the fruit, and if it part readily from the tree, it is ready to gather. Another plan is to cut open a fruit, and if the pips be brown, the crop may be gathered. The same rule applies to'Apples, though none but the very late kinds suffer from early gathering to the same extent as Pears. After housing the fruit the room will require to be freely ventilated for a week or two until the fruit is dry and inured to the temperature of the house ; sudden fluctuations more than anything else induce damp and decay. Fruit showing the slightest signs of decay should be instantly removed, for if left an atmosphere is thereby engendered inimical to the good keeping of the remainder. If space permit let the fruit be placed on the shelves in single layers ; any extra labour involved in so placing it will be more than repaid by the dis- patch with which it can be examined in order to detect bad fruit. Peaches and Nectarines, and also late Plums, should be gathered a day or two before they are fully ripe and placed in the fmit room. I cannot account for it, but such is the fact, that fruit so gathered is much more highly flavoured than when used direct from the trees. As soon as the latter are cleared of fruit, wash well any that are affected with red spider or mildew. Plenty of clear water applied with force for the former, and soap-suds for the latter, are two simple and effectual remedies. Baspberries may now have all their old fruiting canes removed and the new ones finally thinned out, in order that those for next season's fruiting may derive the fullest benefit from what sunshine we may yec be favoured with. After thinning let the ground about them be "pointed" (not dug deeply), then mulch thickly with well-decayed stable manure. The fruit-tree planting season is at hand, and preparation should, therefore, be made for new plantations, and for lifting, root.pruninsr, and renovating any trees requiring such operations. I consider October the best month of the whole year in which to plant fmit trees of all kinds — Grape Vines and Figs excepted, and these are best planted in the spring. The first requisite is, of course, suitable soil — a good loam ; the next is effective drainage. On these two conditions, more than on anything else, bangs the future well-being of the tree. Any old trees that are on the wane may generally be improved by removing the top soil as deep down amongst the roots as is possible without cutting them too much, and filling in with fresh material — good sound loam only. A number of Pears thus treated some time ago now bear excellent crops of frnit. Peaches are especially benefited by such treatment, and the soil they prefer is a good hazel loam, with which has been incorporated a moderate proportion of wood-ashes and a sprinkling of crushed bones. Young trees of suiy kind that are growing too luxuriantly at the expense of fruiting should be entirely dug np, and the roots shortened back and replanted in the same soil. If the trees be too large to render it unsafe to adopt such measures, dig deeply round about one-half of them this year, cutting well under so as to reach the tap roots, and next year do the other half, filling in again with the same soil. No manure should ever be added to soil for fruit trees when newly planted, as, should it be necessary, it is best supplied in a liquid state when the trees are in active growth. — Vf. WiLDSMiTH, Hecljield. Hardiness of Aponogeton distachyon. — I have seen lately some correspondence iu Tbe Gabdex about the hardiness of this plant. It is perfectly hardy here. A moderate-sized plant from Mr. Parker, of Tooting, was planted in my pond in the spring of 1875. It flowered and seeded very freely, and in the autumn nnme- rous seedlings came up in different parts of the pond. All of these ap ipar to have lived through tbe winter, and one of them has now blos- soms as large as those of the original plant. It will be neeessary to prevent the seeds growing in future, or the plant will become a troublesome weed. The pood has rather a sunny aspect, but it was hard frozen last winter, and it has cold water running through it almost constantly. Some of the seedlings are in water not more than an inch deep.— F. Olowss, Windermere. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. FRENCH MODE OF GROWING ASPARAGUS. I SHOULD be glad if you could tell me how the French Asparagus is grown that comes to Covent Garden Market ? I hear it is about 12 in. long and three times as thick as our ordinary Asparagus, and blanched to within 3 in. of the top ? Is this the kind which we grow in England ? Is it or can it be grown in this country ? If so, what plan of cultivation must we adopt ? Is it as good for table purposes as our English Asparagus ? — R. D. [These questions we have submitted to M. Gniheneuf, who is well acquainted with such matters as practised in France, and the following is what he sends us on the subject.] Imported Asparagus, as may be seen in early snmmer in Covent Garden, is cut as soon as the heads appear i in. above the ground, in order to keep the pnrpUsh colour of the top intact, which gives it so much more value, whilst English Asparagus is seldom used before it shows a green head 1 in.,2 in., or even 3 in. long, the flavour of which is, of course much more pronounced. If, however, French market gardeners left their Asparagus one or two days longer in the bed, they would have specimens similar in appearance and flavour to English Aspa- ragus. The taste, however, of these long, green Asparagus heads is always bitterish, and not so refined as that of the pur- ple ones, and if the edible portion increases at the top it de- creases at the bottom. There is but one sort of Asparagus, of which all others are varieties. The common Green, White, German, Grayson's Giant, Giant Purple Dutch, Battersea, Gravesend, Early Argenteuil, Late Argenteuil, Reading Giant, Conover's Colossal,