*»^^ A. ■ " ^Srtf' 51 *"., ;<<,v ^ ■■■/ J* -X t*^ [^ ■iS'er A ^JF ^-^V .*^ ■.J.:./% - ■ vJR. 1 LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE NO.__Qt3_S2:____DATE.B_-lSfl_Q_ uRCE._.Gii)_ege...:^_ui\ds. 1% --•' so Jri-Y 5. 1890 J [Thk G \nr>B?». The GiitDEy.J [July 5, 1890. July 5, 1890 ] [The Garden. ctKtr'f.:^ Il^LiUSTl^ftTED WEBKIhY JOlH^KftJn HORTICULTURE IN ALL ITS BRANCHES, FOUNDED BY W. Ruhinson, Author of" The Wild Garden" "English Flarvcr Garden" ^-c. " You see, sweet maid, we marry A gentler scion to the wildest stock ; And make conceive a bark of baser kind By bud of nobler race : Tliis is an art Whicli does mend Natm-e, — cliange it ratlicr : but The art itself is nature." Shakespeare. VOL. XXXVII. -MIDSUMMER, 1890. LONDON: OFFICE: 37, SOUTHAMPTON STEEET, COVENT GAEDEN, V;:C. Tl]K C.IDBS.J [July 5, 18S0. TO THE MEMORY OF STUART HENRY LOW THE THIRTY-SEVENTH VOLUME OF "THE GARDEN" ^s iebifateb. -per W. R, Ju'y, 1890. 37 July 5, 1890.] THE GARDEN INDEX insrr)Ex: to ^olttdvcib x:x:x:"v^ii. (Illustrations in Italicr.) Abies ajancnsis, 3i>'.' ; brachyphj'lla, ll"7; En- gclmamii glauca, 44i, 6()0 ; v.itgnijira in the f/ariUns nt Caitttw-l/an, Co- Vo'^n, ire- laiiil, 51*1 ; Pattouiaiia, 444 ; pcctiuata, 1 ji» ; Tsuga. 411 AbutUou vexilkiruiin, 274, 347 ; voxillariura, hardiness of, 287 Abutilons, two goud, 222 ; varieties of, 597 Acacia, a beautiful, 247; cordata. 2i»0, 32«; dealbata, 22, (59 ; grandis, 371 ; lophantha, under the greeuhouse stage, 330; notes, ISO; ovato, 147; pulchella, 212 Acacias fur the conservatory, 29 Acttna n-i mphylLo, 177 Acajnas, 177 Acer platanoides, 309; Prince Hendjcrj'', 471 Aceranthus diphyllus, 448 Achillea luuugolica. 049, SiU Achimeiies Rosy Queen, 407; tubiflora, £03 • Achlys triphylla. 440 Aconite, AVinter, 47, 139; on Grass, 24 Actluiopteris australis, 504 Ada aurantiaca, 353 Adiaiitum Maricsi, 54; Neo- Caledonia, 54; versailleuse, 53 Adiautums, beautiful, 387 Jxhmea glomcrata. 150 .^Echmeas, choice, 272 Aerides crassi folium, 453 ; Godefroyae, 589 ; mitratura, 408 ; Sanderianum, 522 ; Savagea- iium. 499, 5S3 .Kschy nan thus Lobbi, 128 Agapanthuses in tubs, 492 Agapetes buxifolla, 119 Agathosnia rugosa, 347 Agave, a noble, 235 Akebia quiuata, 247 Allamanda violacea, 224, 273 Alloplectus peltatus, SO Almond, large -fruited, 413 Almoudsbury, notes from, 284, 454 Alpine house, the, at Kew, 96 Alpinia mvitica, 234 Alum-root, se^irlet, 572 Alyssuni maritlmum variegatum, 341 ; pjTe- naicum, 178 Amaryllis aulica, 14S ; Champion, 259 ; Dr. Masters, 247 ; formosissima, 423, 590 Anielanchier canadensis, 466; oligocai-jia, 539 America, a lesson from, 314 ; packing plants for, 172 ; the sparrows in, 541 American notes, 270, 377 American papers, illustrations in, 172 Amomum magnificum. 51 Amorphnph;iHus Titanum, 235 Amygdahis communis macroearpa, 413 Andromeda floribunda, 284 ; japonica, 171, 300 Andromedas, young shoots of, 569 Anemone, the, 137; apennina, 341,303,394, 437; blanda, 225, 235, 265, 270, 283, 290, 363; coronaria, 302, 457; fulgens, 121, 390; nemorosa and its varieties, 363; steUata alba, 265, 302 ; sylvestris, 438, 484 548 ; ver- nalis, 364, 456 Anemones, alpine, 405; double, selected from seed, 438; Japan and Salvias, 319; yroup of, in tlie garden of Capt. W. H. ft". Battlscombe. HUUitie, IKor/e-, tomersU, 319; wood, 363, 395 Angelica tree, the, 108 Augra^eum citratum, 325; fa^tuosum, 2i;6; frsigrans, 72; fuscatum, 61; /uscfdum, 61; hyaloidcs, 71 ; Kotschyi, 101 ; pelluciduni, 121; Sanderianum, 165; scsquipedale, 101 Angrajcums, 323 Auguloa Ruckeri, 515 Angtiloas, 256 Aniseed tree, the, 96 Annuals for cutting, 177; for summer bed- ding, 206; in the flower garden, 340 Anoplophytums, 315 Anopteris glandulosa, 273 Anscllia africaua, 84, 129 Anthm-ium mortfontensc, 500; Hcherzeri- aiium, varieties of, 400 Aotvis griicillinia, 247, 272 Aphelandra, 67-> ; aurantiaca, 149 Aphelandras, 110 Api'Uogeton distachyon, 524, 548 Apple, Alfriston, 93; a good, 34; Annie Elizabeth. 544 ; Baddow Pippin, 430 ; Beauty of Hants, 89; Blenheim (.)range, 47, 106, 133, 164, 578; Blenheim Orange and others, 229; Blenheim Orange from Scotland, 95; Bramley's Seedling, 48, 71, 107,145,430; Claj'gate Pearmain, 162, 182, 231 ; Coriander, 278 ; culture in orchards, 74; French Crab, 283; John, 190; Lord Grosvenor, 291. 654 ; Lord Orosrenor ('t/v.. Jolly Beggar), l'i-uilin{/ btavch fij\ 291 ; Lord Suffield, 14, 19, 62, 87, 106; Mannington's Pearmain, 133 ; Margil, 93 ; Northern Green- ing, 133; Ribston Pippin, 277 Apple orchards, old, renovating, 132; rules for, 228 Apple tree branch, maggots in, 57 Apple trees, 31; large, gi'aftiug, 292; old, grafting, 54, 106 Apples, 107; cordon, for open trellis facing north, 88 ; for Hereford, 88 ; for Notting- hamshire, 15 ; from Victoria, 494 ; inferior sorts of, converting. 240; notes on, 161 ; Tasmanian, 430, 464, 534 Apples and Pears, extension - trained, on dwarfing stocks, 55 ; for Hants, 88 ; for Wicklow, 241 ; Tasmanian, Australian, and New Zealand, 54 Apricots, 33 Aquatics, 361 Aquarium, Royal, flower shows at the, 17 Aqviilegia ccerulca for the greenhouse, 112; glandulosa, 571 ; Munstead White, 573 ; sibirica alba, 548; Stuarti, 523 Aquilegias, 523. 571, 590 Aralia Maximowiczi, 674 ; Siuboldi, 30, 140; variegated, 283, 320 Arbor-vitaj, Golden Chinese, 442; Japanese, 196 Arbour, Hopcovtred, 0, 217 Arbutuses, three handsome, 6C0 Arctotises, 495 Arenaria balearica, 407 Arisiema concinna, 577; eurvata, 577; prje- cox, 248, 577 ; riugens, 577 ; ringens, 577 ; speeiosa, 145; triphylla, 577 Aris*ni:i.s, ftVO Aristca Ecldoni, 359 Armeria, white, 532 Amebia eehioides, 438 Ariiophyllums, 255 Artichoke, Globe, culture of, 317 Arum itaUcum, 205; Italian, the, 137 Arum Lilies at Christmas, 24 Arundina bambusa^foUa, 515 Ash, the, 496 ; Flowering, the, 500 ; Manna, the, 537 Asparagus decumbens, 29 ; forcing, 57 ; forc- ing in permanent beds, 250; on heavy land, 350; plumosus nanus iu the green- house, 460 ; i^lumosus nanus and A. tenuis- simus, 421 ; retrofractus arboreus, 442 ; seasonable notes on, 318 ; tenuissimus, 377 Aspasia lunata, 447 / Asplenium Adiantum-nigrumgrandiceps, 54; piunatifidum, 504 Astern, V/una,a bed of, 341; perennial, 260 Victoria, W Asti*apa;a W'alllchi, 140 Atragene alpina, 646 Atriplex Halimus, 239 Aubrietia Leichtlini. 363 Aucubas, berried, 386 Auricula, the. 24, 302, 482; seeds, .341 Auriculas, alpine, oOS ; border, 483 ; fancy, 45i> ; outdoor, 319 Australasia, Chiysanthemums in, 533 Avens, Mnuntain. the, 253 Avenues, trees fur, tifi' Azalea am(eua, 186; Deutsche Perle, 274; in- diea Ceres, 462; Mme. Van dcr Croussen, 233 ; mollis aud the double Ghent varieties for forcing, 345 ; rhomblca, 490 ; rosfeflora, 128, 187, l-ii Azaleas, 305 ; from cuttings, 209 ; hardy, 559 ; late-flowering. 590 Azara Gillesi, 212; microphylla, 212 Baker, Mr. J. G.,580 Balsam, tlu- garden, 696 Banilni.-a pahnata, 16; Ragamouski, 9 Barberry. O.ildcn, 413 Barking season, the, 420 _ Barr and Sou's nursery, removal of, 6. Batemannia Wallisi, 501 Battersea Park, 431 ; vata-fvll in, 431 Battle Abbey, flowers from, 563 Bauera rubioides, 208 Baxter, William H., retirement of, 22 Be«ns, Broad, 595 ; kidney or dwarf, 417 Beaum-ntia grandiflora, 235, 408 Bed, a pretty, during spring, 4S4 Bedding plants, permanent, 407 ; prepar tion and hardenhig off of, 400 ; yellow- flowered, 435 Beds and baskets, rustic, on the lawn, 387 Beech, the, 334; King, tli-, in Knowty. ft. I; 385 ; pm-ple, weeping, 67o ; wood of the, 18 Beet, Cheltenham Green-top, 376 ; Draceua- leaved, 152 Beetroot, culture of, 440 Begonia Black Douglas, 561 ; Golden Queen, .'61; Haageaua, 128; Juarezi, 402; M ne. Pfitzer, 501; Miss Eastwood 607; I'lhi- cess Beatrice, 321 ; semperflorens, 418 soeotrana, 49 Begonias, tuberous, a new break in, 423; for bedding out, 570; winter- flowering, 191, - 248 Berberis Aquifolium, 239 ; Aquifolium for flowering aiTangements, 193 ; Beali, 79 ; concinna, 7 ; congestiflora hakeoidc.«, 414 ; Darwini, 447 ; hybrid, a, 370 ; steuopliylla, 316, 413 Bertolouia So .venir de Gand, 561 Bertolonias, three good, 576 Bignonia speeiosa, 289 Billbergia, 500 ; Sanderiana, 111 Biota orient;iIis pendula, 369 Birch, the, 142, 450; beauty of the, 350 ; black, 44 ; ]nu"ple, 474 Birchwood, 262 Birds in gardens, 145 Birds and insects, 465 ; buds and guns, 514 Bismarck as a foi'ester, 426 Blandfordia nubilis imperialis, 472 Bletia hyacinthina, 289 Bloixi Flowers at Kew, 21 Boating accident, sad, 589 Bog planting, trees for, 334 Books— "A Naturalist's Voyage," 258 " Injurious Insects and Fungi," 445 " Our Hardy Fruits," 338 " Report on Injurious Insects," 412 "The Grape Vine," 321 Borders and beds, bulbous, 530 Boronia heterophylla, 304 ; megastigma, 222 ; serrulatii. 407 Boronias, 422 Bossisea linophylla, 333 Botanic Garden, Cambridge, 503 Bougainvillca glabi-a, 222 Boulevards, proposed, in London, 590 Bouquets, 3S4 Bouvardias, prtipjigating, 10 Box as an edging, 227 ; golden -leaved, 575 ; poisoning by, 78 Bramliles iu fruit, 212 Broad Hinton, the Lodge, 49 ; vitv in the fjiuiht'S ot, 49 Broccoli, late, 595; Late White Victoria, 513 ; Sutton's Bouq\ict, 495 ; Vcitch's Model, 472 Brockwell Park, 146 Brodiiea porrifolia, 284 Bromeliaceous plants, 304 Bromeliads, choice, 221 Bronze-leaf, 500 VI THE GARDEN INDEX [July 5, 1890. Broom, Arrow-jointed, 197 ; a beautiful new, 454 ; Spanish, dwarf, 530 ; Teneriffe, 172 Brownea grandiceps, 122 ; hybrid, a, 355 Brussels Sprouts, 101 ; early sown, IS'J ; for winter and spring, 5Ei, 125 ; Gilbert's King of the, 595 Bryanthus erectus, 468 Buckthorn, Sea, the, 16 Buddlcia globosa, 523 Bugloss, Tree, at Kew, 355 Bulbocodium ruthenicum, 9G ; vernum, 212, 2t>5 Bulbophylluni macranthum, 500 Bulbous flowers, early gi'owth of, 71 ; failing, 33S Bulbs, exportation of, from Japan, 121 ; forced, 248 Bullfinches and fruit buds, 14 Burchcllia capensis, 590 Uurlingtonia fi-agranSj 398 Buxus japouicus aureus, 575 Cabbage, Skunk, the, 213 Cabbages, small v. large, 152 Cactus, a seedling, 589 Cactuses, two useful, 101 Caladiums at Forest Hill, 442 Calauthe masuca, 523 ; striata, 324 Calanthes, 36 ; at Upper Holloway, 447 Calceolaria fuchsiEefoUa, 22 ; herbaceous, 505 herbaceous, a vell-groicn, 505 Calceolarias, herbaceous, 536 Calla Elliottiana, 471 Callas from Sewardstone, 47, 110 Calliandra Tweedei. 247 Callipsyche mirabilis, 234 Callistemon rigidus, 5 14 Calypso borealis, 448 Caniarotis purpurea, 517 Caniassi:i limwiii. 484 Camliridgu iJotanic Garden, 503 Camellia, dmible white, the, 05 ; house, the, 113; LaVcstale, 250 ;. Lady Hume's Blush, 113 ; Mathotiana alba, 326 ; Mikado, 121 ; reticulata, 234 ; the big, at The Dell, 2S Camellias, 552 ; beautiful, 283 ; at Windsor, 72 ; flowering of, 51, 112, 128 ; from Twicken- liam, 96, 101 ; grafting, 148 ; in Notts, 146 ; outdoor, 113 Campanula hedcracea, 507 ; persicifolia grandiflora, 5^9 ; p. alba gi-andifloi-a, 607 ; rttundi/olia, 225 Canarina campanula, 261 Canary Creeper, self -sown, 483 Canistrum, 536 Canuas, Gladiolus-flowered, in bloom, 399 Cantua dependens, 146 Capsicums, 58, 317 Caraguatas, 420 Cardamine asarifolia, 483 Cardoons, 376 Carex varicgata, 423 Carnation, a beautiful, 217; a good, 405; a new, 17 ; Duke of Kife, S ; Ellen Burrows. 548 ; Mme. C. Warociiue, 328, 423 ; Pride of Great Britain, 1 07 ; season, the past, 207 ; seedling, '68 ; Sir David Baii-d, 301 ; Sou- venir de la Malm lisun, 209; winter, growing, 377 Carnation and Ficotee, the, 24, 302 ; Union, the, 190 ; yellow ground, 246 Carnations, 529, 604 ; Clove, 531 ; diseased, 116 ; new Margaret, 601 ; notes on, 264 ; propagat- ing, 128 ;wircworm amongst, 116; yellow, 226 C'ain^iit, Altrbmham, 388 ; Early French Forcirg, 3s;i ; Early ScarlH Dutch Horn, 389; latet- nicdiate Smrltl, 38S Carrots and their culture, 388 Cassandra calyculata, 197 Cassiope tetra^ama, 216 Castlcwcllan, Ct). Down, notes from, 573 Catasctum iiungcrothi, 476 C.ittleva, a bUie, 62 ; aniethystoglossa, 72 ; cahinimata, L83 ; citrina, 174, 453, 500, 523 ; EMunLdt). 593 ; Gaskelliaua, 607 ; gigas, 523 ; iuti^rniedia, 452 ; intermedia Parthenia, 56 1; Lawrenceana, 353, 366, 398 ; Lawi-enceana concolor, 452 ; Lawrenceana Viueki, 401 ; luteola, 174 ; malformed ilowcrs of, 424 ; Mendeli, 359, 367, 593 ; M. Alfred Smee, 561 ; Mendeli Empress of India, 522 ; MossiEe, 490 5S2, 594 ; M. Arnoldiana, 582 ; M. Reineckiana, 682 ; M. Rothschildiana. 582 ; M. Wageneri, 58i ; original plant of the, 503 ; Percivaliana, 35, 130 ; Percival- iana alba, 233 ; RuUissoni, 325; Schilieriana Regnelh, 515 ; Schrnederi, 447 ; Skinneri, 30s ; speciosissima, 453 ; Trianaj, 36, 165, 175, L':.7. 2iil, 283, 288, 3-24, 353; Trianse at Camden Wood, 257; T. Backhousiana, 266; T. Ernesti, 353 ; Ti-iana3 from Buxton, 266 ; Trianaj from Cheshire, 289 ; T. fulgens, 259 ; T. leucopbiiia, 62 ; T. maguifica, 2(itJ ; T. margiuata, 259 ; T. Tautziana, 308 ; Warueri, 561 Cattleyas at Chelsea, 589 ; at Teddington, 517 ; at Upper Holloway, 447 ; from Timpcrley, 568 Cauliffczoer, Earl-i London, 151 ; Viiich's Au- tuvin Giant, 151 Cauliflowers, eai'ly, 513 ; sowing, 126 Ccanothus dentatns, 414 Cedar, African, the, 195; Mmiy t Atla", f, 105 ; Mount Atlas, 5i34;thered, and its varie- ties, 280 Cedrus atlantica, 195 ; atla^nnca^ 195 Celeriac, 30 ; Ap file -shaped, 349; c^rnmon, 349 Celery, 57, 349 ; culture, simple, 240 ; Cur ed Solid Wkitf, 349 ; i^lanting, 126 ; sotix; 340 ; Turnip-rootHl, 349 Celeries for market and exhibition, 5 Celsia cretica, 572 ; in pots, 536 Celtis occiden talis, 172 Centropogon Lucyanus, 274, 326 Cerasus Laurocerasus, 370 ; pumila, 490 Cercis siliquastrum, 490, 500, 539 560, 574 Cereus C. J. T. Peacock, 506 ; Mallisoni, 284 Ceylon, Rainy Month Flower of, 523 Charcoal, burning, 44 Cheilanthes Sieberi, 53 Cherry, Canadian, 400 Cherry Plum for hedges, 500 Cherries, 34, 448 ; and Damsons, 554 ; Morello, 88, 93 Cheshire, flowers from, 589 Chestnut, double-flowered, 560 Chevallicra Germiuyi, 112 Chicory, large-leaved or Witloof, 389 Chimonauthus fragrans, 22, 78, 234 Chionodoxa gigantea, 290, 321, 362 ; Liicilise, 302, 320; sardensis, 265, 283; Tmolusi, 289 Chionodoxas, 284 Chiswick Gardeners' Association, 333 Choisya ternata under glass, 576 ChorozemaChaiidleri, a group of, 121 ; mucro- nata, 187 ChoTi de Burghley, 4 Chrysanthemum Beauty of Castlewood, 53 ; exhibitions, clashing of, 43 ; Golden Gem, 41, 72, 122 ; good late, 21, 47, 146 ; Grace Attick, 523; Improved Ralph Brocklebank, 116; Kioto, 52; Lady Selborne, 41; La Joyeuse, 51 ; Lord Eversley, 52 ; lore, 120 ; Mme. de Sevin, 116 ; Maggie Mitchell, 47 ; Moonlight, 52 ; Mi-s. A. Waterer, 52 ; Mrs. Alpheus Hardy, 360, 383 ; Mrs. E. W. Clark, 22 ; notes, 392, 470. 533 ; Ostrich Plume, 377 ; pest, a new, 567 ; Riilph Brocklebank, 52; roseum .superbum, 52, 116; segetum, 156 ; shows of the future, 48 ; Snowdrop, 52 ; spoiling the, 40 ; the, in Japan, 220; Yellow Ethel, 52 Chrysanthemums, arc they wanted in mid- winter? 52; bush, 470; Continental, new, of 1800, 343 ; cutting down, 470, 403 ; in America, 41 ; in April, 360 ; in Australasia, 533 ; in Japan, 115 ; incurved, old, ISO ; late, 53; midwinter, 51; new, 145, 270, 285, 391 ; mildew on, 567 ; new American of 1890, 367 ; potting, 533 ; single leaf, 484, 532 ; specimen, 41 ; spring, 261 ; standard, 41 ; synonyms of, 220 Church decoration, flowers for, 521 Chysis bractesceus, 288, 383 ; Chelsoni, 130 ; Limminghi, 516 Cineniria aiu-ita, 357, 405 ; Webberiann, 207 Cinerarias, 372 ; at Dunccvan, Wcybridge, 447 ; big, 305 ; of to-day, 207 Cissiis discolor, 2i' ; discolor^ 27 Cistuses, dwarf, 580 ; liardy, 500 Cladnistis aimu-ensis, (54 Clematis cirrhosa, 124 ; cuecinca, 405 ; ever- green, 124 ; hexascpala, 246 ; Lady Caroline JS\viUf 537; lanuginosa, 037 ; montana, 573; uiontana, a pori.^ covered icilh, 573 ; New Zealand, the, 284 ; the, as an exhibition plant, 462 Clerodendrons, 441 CUanthus Dampieriy 290 ; and varieties, 355, 384 ; in New Jersey, 86 ; in Wales, 289, 360 ; magiiificus, 69 Climbers, two beautiful, 449 Climbing plants, seasonable notes on, 306 Clivia, a tine seedling, 283 ; miniata, 121 ; m. superba, 96 Clivias at Forest Hill, 400; at Upper Hollo- way, 462 Clyde disaster, the, 17 Cobra Plant, the, 147 Cochliostemma Jacombiana, 274 Cocoa-nut, double, 48 Cuelogyne conferta, 234 ; crist:ita, 61, 165, 211 ; c. aiba, 224 ; cristata, a fine, 212 ; cristata, vara, of, 95 ; c. Lemoniana, sporting, 256 ; Dayana, 447 ; lactea, 84 ; Lowi, 476 ; pan- dm-ata, 424, 453 ; tomentosa, 472 Ccelogynes, 288 Colchicura erociflorum, 96 ; luteum, 96 Cold house iu spring, useful plants for a, Coleonema alba, 315 CoUetia crueiata, 69 Colliusia vema, 438 Colours of flowers, the, 439 Coltsfoot, variegated, fine specimen of, 435 Columbine, the white, 548 Columbines, 570, 590 Combretum purpurcum, striking, 421 ; root d cutting of, 421 Commehna ccelestis, 438 Coniijosts, manurial 58 Conifers, rare, for small gai'dens, 444 ; silvery- leaved, 316 Conservatories, small, plants for, 461 Contrast, a beautiful, 500 Contrivances, useful, 488 Co-operative flower show, national, 404 Coreopsis ari^tosi, 109; auriculato, 202; best annual, the, 202 ; carda7idn'/olio, 203 ; / run>mo»di, 203 ; Ifinceolata, 203 Corn, Indian or Sweet, 439 Cornflower, double, the, 254 Cornel, weeping, the, 316 Comers and nooks, 169 Correa bicolor, 149 ; viridis, 69 Correas, 247 ; a note on. 111 Corydalis hitea, 253 Corylopsis spicata, 124, 352 Cotoneaster, a valuable, 17 ; bacillaris, 574 ; horizontalis, 538 Covei-t plant, a valuable, 142 Cowslip, Sikkim, 568 Cratsegus, 467 ; cordata, 29 Creeper, Tiimipet, the, 106 Crinodendron Hookeri, 359 Crinuni brachjntma, 561; giganteum, 355, 500; hardy, a, 80; Powelli, 80; rowelliin th" op n bo der, 81 ; zeylanieum, 576 Crocosma aurea imperialis, 363 Crocus Balansae, 101 ; Imperati, 72 ; mininus, 21 ; species of, 225 Crocuses at Clifton, 95 ; species of, 178 ; spring, 45 Crops, early, raised ground for, 513 ; rabbit- proof, 539 Ciotolaria Cunninghami, 558 Crotons, 9 Croweas, 49 Crown Imperials failing to flower, 395 Cryptantlms Beuckeri, 112 Cryptomeria elegans, 30, 444 Cucimiber, good, a, 486 ; tree, yellow, 574 Cucumbers, 282 ; big, 541 ; early, 76; failing, 350; frame, 513, 188; in cold frames and pits, 601 ; shading, 411 Cunonia capensis, 454 Cupressus Goveuiana, 124; Knightiana, 305, 316 ; Lawsoniana argentea, 444 ; Lawsoni- ana in bloom, 386 ; L. filifera, 280 Currant, double-flowered, 539 Currants, Black, for profit, 228 ; early-flower- ing, the best, 414 Cut flowers, arrangement of 43, 48 Cyathea Cunninghami, 505 Cycas revohita, 557 ; revoluta in flower, 467 ; rerofut'A in fruit, 557 Cyclamen Atkinsi, varieties of, 178 ; euro- pseiun, 70 ; europ:evnn, routing xip, 16 ; per- sicum, 28; p. Faust, 129; repandum, 332 Cyclamens, 326 ; collecting, 396 ; hardy, 191 Cydonia japonica Moerloosei, 471, 501 ; Maulei, 484 ; white, the, 467 Cymbidium Devonianum, 223, 324 ; ebur- Ileum, 164, 211, 517; Lowianum, 95, 224, 289, 367, 447, 453 ; pendulum atro-pur- pureum, 582 Cyperus distans, 305 Cypress, deciduous, 538 ; Gowcn's, 124 ; 'Knight's, 305 Cypripedium Asliburtoni* superbvun, 366 ; Atys, 102 ; Aylingi, 561 ; bellatulum, 256, 517, 504; Boxalli atratum, 174; Burbidgei, 130; califoniicum, 544 ; cardinale, 166, 325 ; Can-ieri, 102 ; caudatum, 593 ; Curtisi, 551 ; Druryi, 476 ; EUiottiantim, 166, 256, 366 ; euryandrum, 174 ; Harrl.sianuiii sujicrbuni, 05; hirsutissimum, 130; insi^-nu and dlhurs, 61; lo grande, 21 ; Latlianiianum, IM ; leucoiThudvmi, 266 ; Morgani^, 165 ; S'uma, 259; Parishi, 591 ; porphyreum, 223; por- phyrochlamys, 166, 266 ; jirsestans, 583 ; Roezli, 423 ; Sallieri and its variety Hyea- num, 102; Schrrederic, 325; Scdeni, 121; S. candidulum, 130; S. rubicundum, 102 ; spectabilc, 320, 353, 36f>, 438, 476 ; spcctabile in Gloucestershire, 590 ; Stonei acrosepa- lum, 224 ; vemixium, 517 Cypripediums, 4S4 ; at Bcckcnham, 175 Cyrtanthus, genus, the, 344, 360; lutescens and C. McKcni, 28 ; lutescens and other species, 88 ; obliquus, 359 ; sanguineus, 344 Cyrtanthi, 212 ; eidtivation of, 406 Cyrtoceras multiflora, 492 Cyrtoclulum niaeulatum, 174 Cyrtomium falcatum, 173, 257 Cyrtopodium St. Lcgerianum, 3r>7 Cystopteris montana, 550 Cytisns decumbens, 16 ; filipes, 172 ; pur- pureus, 559 ; ratisbonensis, 447 ; seoparius Andreanus, 443, 454, 471 Da?dalacanthus macrophyllu.s, 27 Daffodil, Castlcwcllan, the, 283 ; first, the, 48 ; Gulden Spin-, 301 ; Hoop-petticoat, the, 21 ; Tenby, the, 48, 233 Daffodil buds opening in water, 265 Daffodils, 121, 457 ; a border of, 363 ; at Chis- wick, 396 ; at Kew, 355 ; finest, the, 393 ; from Long Ditton, 72 ; good, 302 ; Hart- land's 567 ; in Battersea Park, 407 ; mar- ket, 384 ; uncommon varieties of, 377 Dahlia imperialis, grafting, 178 ; Juarezi, in- troduction of, 301 ; the, 24 Dahlias, propagating, 70 Daisies, Michaelmas, 248 Damsons and Cherries, 554 Daphne Blagayana, 213 ; Fioniana, 225 ; in- dica, 208; indica alba, 10; indica rubra 279 ; Mezereum, 95 Daphniphyllum glaueescens, 316 Darlingtonia californica, 10, 190 ; californica, 147 Davallia bullata, 257; canariensis, 549 Day Lily of the Desert, the, 342 Dean, Richard, Mr., presentation to, 408 Deer forests, management of, 214 Delphinium Alfred Kelway, 561 ; troilifolium, 400, 532 Delphiniums from seed, 47, 71 Dendrobium lemulum, 175, 211 ; Aiusworthi, 84 ; Ainswurthi roseum, 130 ; albo-sangui- neum, 365, 378 ; amoenum, 453 ; Aspasia, 250 ; binoculare, 522 ; Bi-ymeriauum, 447, 452 ; Cambridgeanum, 280 ; capillipes, 447, 476 ; citrosmum roseum, 447 ; crassinode, 71, 129 ; Devonianum, 367 ; dixanthum, 453 ; Dominianum, 130, 175 ; endocharis, 121 ; Falconeri, 261 ; Farmcri, 130, 551 ; Findleyanum, 366, 453 ; Harveyanum, 551 ; heterocarpum, 61 ; Hilli, 83, 129 ; hircoglossum, 408 ; Jamesianum, 11, 130, 367 ; Juno, 60 ; Leechianum, 175 ; litui- florum, 234 ; Lima, 60 ; luteolum chloro- centrum, 175 ; McCarthiiB, 452, 499, 523 ; Macfarlanei, GO] nobile, 101, 288, 359, 447; nobile, Burford variety, 00 ; nobile Cook- sonianum, 35, 325 ; nobile nobilius, 61, 211, 325 ; not flowering, 424 ; primulinum, 447 ; p. giganteum, 324 ; Sanderianum, 325 ; scabrilingue, 447 ; Schroederi, 551 ; Seide- lianum, 446 ; .signatimi, 259 ; splendidissi- mum grandiflorvim, 175 ; thyrsiflorum, 175; transparens, 102 ; Wallichianum, 175 ; Ward- ianum, 36, 62 ; W. candidum, 175 ; W. gi- ganteum, 212; W., Schrceder's var., 307; xanthocentrum, 66 Dendrobiums at Burford Lodge, 452 ; at Cheltenham, 516 Dendrochilum \mcatum, 130 Deodars, seedling, 386, 443 Deutzia candidissima fl.-pl., 308; gracilis, 422 ; icabra in Mr. Scrase-Dickins's garutn at Coolhurst, 315 Deutzias, 315 ; for forcing, 309 DianeUas, 460 Dianthus alpinus, 0 ; cfesius, 0, 567 ; gelidus, 0 ; glacialis, 9 ; Grievei, t04 ; neglcctus, 9 ; neglectus, a few words about, 264 Dicentra canadensis, 364 Dielytra spectabllis, 47, 442, 448, 482 Dielytras, 303 SiervUla grandiflora, cut floucrs of, in a vasf, 64 Dietes bicolor, 557 Sipladtnia Brearlcyina, 185 Dipladenias, 185, 20S Disa graminifolia, 424 ; gi'anditlura, culture of, 397, 591; t/randidora, fimotr of, 516; racemosa, 405, 516 ; tripctala, 594 ; tripcta- loides, 453, 500, 607 Dniidia Epipactis, 362, 456 Durnnicum Chisi on the Grass, 508; planta- gineum excelsum, 407 Doronicums, 481 ; as pot plants, 321 Doryopteris ludens, 549 Dover, trees at, 502 Draba lasiocarpa, 191 ; Mawi, 284 Dracaena argcuteo-striata, 128 ; Douectti, 247 Di*ac!enas, 149 ; cultivation of, 84 ; for deco- rations, 50 ; gi'cenhouse, 113 Drains, roots choking, 118 Drawing, true and false, 42, 116, 171 Drosera dichotoma, 348 Dryandras, 398 : Dryas octopetala, 253 Drymoglossum piloselloides, 585 Duhlin, flowers from, 580 Dulwich Park, opening of, 589 Duneevan, Rhododendrons at, 538 Duvrobin Castle, Sncwdro_s in ilf G-uisa 529 Ebony, St. Helena, 348 Echevcria retusa, 50, 3U5 Echium caUithyrsum at Kew, 355 Edelweiss at Wisley. 567 ; the, 5li0 Edging plants, hardy, 531 Edgings, ISO Edraianthus, 72 Edwardsia prandiflura, 523 E>;li:itH. 'IIk-' Dell, 476 El;i'i'i."apu^ '.-vaneus, 128 Elm, till.', 262, 5S6 Elms, 474 July 5, 1890.] THE GARDEN INDEX vu Embothrixim cocciiicimi, 40S Eukianthns canipaimhitus, 473 Epacris alba odorata, isr ; hyaciwtliiflora fulgens, 147; miniata splondcus, 373 Epacrises, 48 Ephedra altissima, 3S4 ; diatachya, 330 Epidcndnnn alatum, 447 ; aiiriciUigcnim, 39( ; Incurnntuiii. 44(> ; erectum, 447 ; Frederiui (Juilielmi, 363; macrochilum album, 131 ; ncmoralc majus, 515 ; O'Bricni- auiim, 334 ; sceptruui, £'J3 ; Stamfordianum, 550; Wallisi, 1S5 Epiphronitis Vcitchi. 607 Epijr.e;i repcus, 3in, 302 Epiphyllum, the, 132 ; as a rafter plant, 270 Eppiii^'' Forest, 35i3 Enuitlicmiim albiHorum, 138 ; nervosum, 95 ; piilchelhim, 187 ; tvibcrculatum, 433 Er.iuthis hycmalis, 130 Eremurus hiuialaicvis, 534, 544 EriGi codunudes, 105, 330 ; colorans, 28 ; ven- tricosa Buthwelliaua. 570, 300 ; town, 119 ; wild, 305 ; women and, 237 Gan-ya elUptica, 30, 124, 171, 239 ; on a porch at Swanmore Park, 501 Gaultheria procumbens, 30 Genista Andreana, 3S0 ; hispauica, 401 ; h. pumila, 539 ; sagittalis, 107 Gentian, climbing, the, S(> Gentiana acaulis, 301, 456 Geranium atlantieum, 458 ; ibericum 544 ; pratense album, 438 Gerbera Jamesoui, 200 ; hardiness of, 405 Gesnera cinnabarina, 85 Gilbert's specialities, 307 Gladiolus, the, 46, 137, 400; gandavensis, lifting and storing, 342 ; gandavensis, pre- mature growth of, 71 ; segctum, 508 ; Snow White, 218 ; tristis, 248 Gladioli, storing, 155, 303 ; treatment of spawn, 220 Glaucium luteum, 572 Gleichenia alpina, 585 Glory of the Snow, 303 Glory Pea of Australia, 209 Gloxinia, a welt-grown, ercct-jlowcrcd, 271 ; Agnes Cook, 501 Gloxinias, 271 ; at Chelsea, 598 Godwinia gigas, 274 Gongora truncata, 84 Goodia latifolia. 408 Goodyera discolor, 72 Gooseberry, the, 382 Gooseberries, a new enemy to, 429, 479, 515 ; buds of, uninjured, 358 ; failure of the, 519 Grafting, 164, 410 ; an analysis of, 297 ; evils of, 350 ; Mr. Watson on, 357 Grammatophyllum Ellisi, 11 Grape Hyacinths, 407 Grape Grus Colman, 132 ; Gros Colman, shad- ing, 200, 244; Gros Guillaumc, 182 ; Muscat of Alexandria unhealthy, 603 Grapes, Gros Colman, not colouring, 62 ; looping up the shoulders of, 275; Muscat, sand for, 554 ; new hybrid, 87 ; thinning, 327; thinning by express in Jersey, 411, Grass, l.awn, as a manure, 5 Grasses, diied, bow/rtet oj, 205; ornamental, 245 ; from seed, 337 Grave, plants for a, 510, 532, 546 Green Bhd Flower, 558 Green Gage, the, 409 Greenhouse, heating a, 43; small, a, in February, 223; small, a, in April, 459 Greenhouses of to-day. 507 Greenwich Park, Thorns in, 499 Grevillea alpina, 505 Grevilleas, 33 S Groups for effect at Manchester show, 541 Gymnogramma Mayi, 584 ; triangularis, 585 Gymnogrammas, 54, SO, 525 Haarlem, notes from, 405 ; show of flowering bulbs at, 201 Habranthus fulgens, 534 Habrothamnus Newelli, 147 Hsemanthus maguificus, 95 ; multiflorus, 283 Haemanthuses at Kew, 21 HairbeV, Bnglish, the, 235 ; silvery, the, 72 Hall and Frascr Fund, 585 Hall for horticulture, 383 Hamamelis, 140 ; arborea, 70, 213 ; japonica, 124 ; nomenclature of, 306 Hamiltonia spectabilis, 16 Hampstead Fields and the County Council, 43 Hampstead Heath, 16, 523 Hampstead, vandalism at, 120 Hanbury Institute, the, 383 Hardenbergia Comptoniana, 334 Hardy flowers at Broxboume, 235 ; at exhi- bitions, 405 ; at Reading, 333 ; at the Temple show, 548 ; at the York nurseries, 190 ; from Newry, 449 ; in a Surrey garden, 430 ; in the greenhouse, 186 ; masses of, 448 ; shelter for, 394 Hardy plants, dividing, 301 ; in France, 190 ; in the Grass, 457 ; market, 416 ; notes on, 178, 225, 305, 320, 303, 438, 450, 483, 507, 548 ; variegation in, 508 Hard-wooded plants, potting, 273 Hartwegia purpurea, 504 Hawthorn, common, a >rpray of, 467 Hazel, Wych. 70, 146 ; a good, 280 Heath, a good, 576; bell-flowered, 105, 330; St. Dabeoc's, 560 Heckfield, 145 Hedera dentata, 7, 04 ; orcr a gateway at The Ivies, Winchmore Hid, 7 Hedges, 68 ; CheiTy Plum for, 450 ; manage- ment of, IS ; worn-out, renewing, 386 Hedgerows, 79 Hellebores, 177, 354, 265; coloured, in frosty weather, 320 ; seedling, 325, 320 Helleboiiis caucasicus, 99 ; colchicus cocei- neus, 166 ; niger ruber, 95 ; viridis, 225, 254, 205 Hemerocallis fulva, 320 Hepatica triloba, 363 Hepaticas, 178, 203 ; in masses, 205 Herbaceous plants, Rev. C. Wolley Dod on, COS Herbs, 545 Hereford, weather in, 201 Heron's-bill, alpine, 6 Hesperocallis undulata, 342 Heuchera sanguinea, 201, 408, 449, 572 Hibberd, Mr., loses his temper, 94 Hibbertia dentata, 131 Hippeastrum, the, 347 ; doubling, 300 ; Grand Monarch, 353 Hippeastnmis at Chelsea, 337 ; Mr. H. Veitch on, 200 Hippophae rhanmoides, 10 Hoeing, 480 HoUy berries, scarcity of, 15, 05, 141 ; hedges, 490 HolUes, liquid manure for, 05 ; and Thorns, old, renovating, 100 ; transplanting, 203 Hollyhock, the, 24, 204; diseases, 57, S)0, 395 Hollyhocks, 138 ; and Lilies.. 305 ; in the gar- den, 138 Hfinesty, variegated, 473 Honeysuckle, arch covered vAih, 489; a good winter- flowering, 47 Honeysuckles, 480; bush, 04; sweet-scented, 108; winter-flowering, 300 Hop, the, in gardens, 217 Horse-tail, shrubln', the, 239 Horticultural Club, the, 383, 300 Horticultural societies, local, affiliation of, 354 Horticultiu-e, hall for, 354, 355, 403; and Royal Horticultural Society, 71 Hothouses, walls in, 371 Hottonia palustris, 545 House, gay, a, 187 Hoya imperialis, 405; Paxtoni, 495 Hoyas, two distinct, 405 Humea elegans, 533 Huntsman's-horn common, the, 320 Hyacinth, Nantes, forcing, 186; Roman, the, 17 Hyacinths in Grass, 364 ; wood, 531 Hyacinthus azureus, 05, 122; Icucophieus, 201 Hydrangea paniculata, 455; pink; a well- groicn, 373 Hydrangeas and their culture, 372 ; for mar- ket, 492 Hyeres, notes from, 331 Hypericum kalmianum, 270 Hypoderris Browni, 53, 584 Hypolepis, 549; liergiana, 22 Iberis stylosa, 302 Ice, storing in sawdust, 65 Illicium-floridanum, 90 Illustrations in American papers, 172 Impatiens Hawkeri, 148; Jerdoniaj, 185 Imperials, Crown, failing to flower, 355 Indian forests, 580 Indigofera floribunda alba, 524 Insect pest, an, 16 Insect pests, increase of, 55 Inula glandulosa, 568 Ipomcea Horsfallia;, 81 ; propagation of, 492 Ireland, flowers from, 524 ^ Iris, the, 156; Bakeriana, 270; Bludowi, 45* ; Bommlilleri, 22, 48; chinensis, 71, 122, 180, 187; cristata, 447, 454, 484; florentma, 544 ; Gatesi, 540 ; iberica, 448 ; missoun- ensis, 484 ; netted, the, and its varieties, 72 ; new, a, 191 ; ochroleuca, £90 ; orchi- oides splendens, 305 ; pallida, 544 ; persica purpvu-ea, 200 ; pnecox, 458 ; pseudacorus, 572 ; reticulata, 47, 265 ; reticulata in pots, 145 ; sibirica haematophylla, 302 ; sindjar- ensis, 283, 290, 308 ; stylosa speciosa, 302 ; Tingitana, 448 , Irises, 528; Asiatic, 462; dwarf, 447; Eng- lish, from seed, t90 ; of fine colour, 505 Irrigation colonies, Australian, the, 387 Isoloma hu-suta, 272 ; lanuginosa, 550 Ivy banks and borders, 117; Poison, the, (9 ; scarlet-berried, 29 ; wi-eaths of, 43 Ixias, 401 J. Janibosa austnxlis, 304 Janksea Heldreichii, 500 Japanese fruit, a " new," 217 _ Jasminum gracillimum, 48 ; pubcscens, 8b Joss Flower, 258, 201 Judas tree, the, 490, 500, 530, 500, 574 June, frost in, 523 Juneberrv, the, 400 Juniperus canaddisis aurea, 473; chmensis mas, 444 Justicia magnifica, 495 K. Kjempferia rotunda, 300 Kalanchoe eamea, 129, 248; a failure, 3,7 Kalmia angiistifolia, 539 Kalmias, 501 Kent, wild flowers in, 481 Kentias at Sydney, X.S.W., 5£9 Kew, alpine house at, the, 32 ; flowers in the Grass at, 203 ; greenhouse at, 146 Kidney Beans, 307 Kitchen garden, flowers in the, 100; notes on, 30, 60; work in, 82, 103, 13.5, 153, 179, 204 219, 253, 269, 297, 320, 340, 375, 389, 415^ 432, 408, 487, 511, 527, 551, 581, (00 _ Knole P:u-k and its trees, 385 ; King Beech «n, 385 . * ■ 1 Korolkovria, 201 ; Sewerzowi var. tricolor, 212 Label question, great, the, 302, 305 Labels, plant, 457 Laburnum, purple-flowered, 559 Laburnums, good and bad, 530 Laehenalia Nelsoni, 371 Laehenalias at Canford Manor, 304 ; seedlmg. 213 Vlll THE GARDEN INDEX [JnLY 5, 1890. Ltelia iicumiiiata, 102; anceps at The Dell, Egham, 05; auceps alba, 11, 130; a. Hilli, 1G5; a. f^chnHduriana, fiii; a. Stella, 01, 72; a. Williaiiisi, IT'j; Ai'iioldiana, 218; Booth- iana, 47.J ; elcgans, 500 ; e. blenheimensis, 84 ; flammea, 470 ; furfiiracea, 21 ; harpo- phylla, 175, iHS; Lindleyaiia, 165; mono- phylla, 84; peduncular is, 102; p. alba, 84; pvirpurata, 44ti, 453, 590; p. RusBelliana, 446, 522 ; p. Schroederi, 44li ; p. Williamsi, 440 ; superbiens not flowering, 288 ; Wol- stenholmiag, 522 Laelias, white, 212 Lfeliopsis domingensis, 170 L^lio-f.'attkya Canliamffl, 607 ; eximia, 607 ; Ilipliolyta, 307 Land revenues of the Crown, 420 Landscape gardener, wanted a, 227 Lapageria propagation, 149 Larch, Americanj 610; native and foreign, 230, 280 Larix americana, 544 ; 610 Lasiandra macrantha, 148 Lasianthus princeps, 240 Lastrea obliquata var. Gerniinyi, 54 Lathyrus tubcrosus, 450 Laurel, common, the, 370, 444; in gardens, 490 Laurels in gardens, 538 Lanrustinus imder glass, 27 Law^ Damage to plants, 285 Lawn, Moss on, 248 Lawn tennis-courts, making, 17 Leichtliu's, Max, garden, 540 Leptospermnni scoparinm, 414 Leptotes bicolnr. 2SS Lescheu;tultia bilnba major, 557, 575 Lettuce, Cahhayti, NcapotUun, 5S1 ; Cabbage, Perfect Gem, 59; Tom Thumb or Stone Tennis-half . 581 Lettuces, forcing, 39, 75 Leucostegia immersa, 387 Libertia formosa, 499 ; as a bog plant, 532 Lightning, effects of, 474 Ligustrum amurensc, 8 ; Ibota, 8 ; italicum, 8 ; japonicum, S ; IncidMm, 8 ; ovalifolium, 8 ; sinense nanum, 8 ; Stauntoni, 8 Lilac, cut-leaved, 495 ; Indian, 530 ; Mmc. Ki-eutcr, 472 ; Persian, the, 539 Lilacs, grafting, 31 li ; and other slu-ubs, 370 ; and Thorns, 316 Lilium avuutum, 70 ; auratum blooming in winter, 355; candidum, 45, 205, 254. 569; HaiTisi, 348, 421 ; Harrisi, dried bulbs of, 401 ; ocliroleucum, 308 ; Thomsonianum, 438 ; urabellatum, 571, 572 Lily, Bermuda, the, 421 ; JacobEeau, 423, 690 ; Madonna, the, 254, 589; noteworthy, a, 524 ; Wood, American, the, 407 Lily of the Vallev, 290, 308 ; home-grown, 22(J Lily of the Valley tree, 171, 284, 300, 355 ; and the frost, 370 Lilies, 5, 45 ; Arum, 149, 222, 248, 305 ; Arum, in ponds, 70, 138 ; Arum, in the open air all the year, 40, 70, 137 ; and Hollyhocks, 205 ; and Rhododendrons, 475 ; Fairy, 421 ; from Tottenham, 589 ; reliable, 40 Lime, Silver, the, 214 Lindsft'a renifurmis, 5^5 Linnm luunogynurn, 41'*.' ; yellow, 28 Lithospermum (Jastuni, 524 LittonJa miidesta. 112 Llavea cordifulia. 119 Lobelia fulgens, 548 ; Heine Blanche, 501 Lobster-claws, 'Ji^S Locust tree, timber of the, 450 Luniaria viilc;iniea, 505 Ltiiiiarinpsis lietenmiorpha, 119 Lnnieera Standislii, 47 J>iijiliMs.>ri:i iiruinata, 119 Lo.jiiat, the, 21 Lotus pclicrrhynchus, 524 Lov^~in-a-mist 130 Loxoma Cunninghanii, 504, 585 Lunaria biennis variegata, 472 Lupine, Tree, 508 ; the yellow, 590 Lupinus arlxireus, 508 Lycaste Barringtoniai, 250 ; fvdvescens, 324 ; Harrisouise, 307 ; plana Meas\u*esiana, 175 ; Skinneri, 397 ; Skinneri, 43, 397 ; S. alba, 11, 105, 175; S. Regina, 100; S. (Young's var.), 259 ; S., varieties of, 8i ; S. xantho- glossa, 17.5 ; tricolor, 508 Lyi-e Flower, the, 442, 448, 482 Lyre Flowers, 47, 303 IC. Mackaya bella, .530 Macnab Memorial Fund, 122 Magnolia conspicua, 300, 335, 355 ; cordata, 574 ; fuscata, 447 ; pumila, 370 ; stellata, 355 Magnolias, a succession of, 380 Mahouia, Japanese, 2S0 Manure, soot as, 322 Maple, Japanese, crimson-leaved, 447 ; Nor- way, the, 309, 413 Maranta Warscewiczl, 37r; zebrina and other Jine-leaved plants, S5J Marantiis or Calatheas, 85 Marguerite foliage, 410 Market garden notes, 15, 140, 154, 307, 331, 499 Marrow, Vegetable, long hxuh, 594 Marrows, Vegetable, 594 Masdevallia Fraseri, 257 ; Harryana Seegai-i, 583 ; new variety, 607 ; Hchrcedcriana, 102, 200 ; triangvdaris, 175 ; Veitchi, 398 Masdevallias at Forest Hill, 35 Moi&anfjea kieroglyphica, 244 Massangeas, 244 Masterwort, dwarf, 302 Mathiola valesiaca, 499 Maxillaria Harrisonijie, 324 Mayflower, 201, 302 May, tlie month of, 475 !Meaduw Saffron, spring, 205 Meeonopsis nepalensis, 544 Medals, Veitch Memorial, presentation of, 383 Medinilla Curtisi, 240 ; magnifica, 448 Megasea ciliataalba, 302 ; Stracheyi, 246, 205, 302 Helia Azedarach, 530 Melon Golden Perfection, 103 ; La Favorita, 554 ; leaves unhealthy, 609 Melons, 89 ; in bad condition, 479 ; in frames, 200, 553 ; in cold frames and pits, tOl ; shading, 411 Mcspilus, Arbutus -leaved, the, 502 Mezereon, the, at Kew, 14() ; varieties of the, 285 ; white-flowered, the, 197 Microlepia hirta cristata, 283 Middlesex plants, 342 Mignonette, 112, 570 ; Caraway's Double White Improved, 401 Milla Leichtlini, 122 Miltunia cmicata, 211; vexillaria, 223, 452, 495. 590 ; Warsccwiczi, 3S4 Mimulus moschatus compactus, 45 ; in. ruber, 148 Mint, forced, 189 Mitchani Common, 314 Mitraria coccinea, 59S Moles in gardens, 50 Moneywort, variegated, 113 Morfea fimbriata, 71, 122, 180 Moth, winter, the, 116, 494 Mountain Tea, American, 30 Mushroom houses, over -heated, 370 ; tempe- rature for, 351 Mushrooms, 307 ; abortive, on Mushroom bed, 117 ; growing, 282 ; In shade, 318 ; tempe- rature for, 388 ; woodlice eating, 55, 91 Musk, compact, the, 45 Musks, new, 98 Mustard and Cress, raising, 189 MjTica Gale, 281 N. Nauodcs discolor, 325 Narcissi, first, the, 190; and Laurel havta, arratigtment of, 301 ; hybrid, 383; naming, 302 Narcissus Bernardi, 405, 448 ; Chinese or Joss Flower, 234, 258 ; C. J. Backhouse, 320 ; cultivated, history of, 379 ; Daniel Dewar, 320 ; earliest, the, 95 ; George Engleheart, 401 ; Hoop-petticoat, white, 72 ; jargon, 308, 408 ; Johnstoni, 483 ; lobnlaris, 205 ; minimus, 14, 205 ; minor, 145 ; monophyl- lus, 72, 191; pooticns recurvus, 495; Prim- rose Dame, 283 ; triaudnis pulchellus, 355 ; viridifloriis. 122. 200 Narcissus e.nnmittee, 379, 402 Kastu rt i inn , Flu me, they 253 .-on cottage window, 545 Nasturtiums, Flame, 321 Natal forests, the, 580 Nectarines cracking, 479 Nepenthes Northiana, 247 Nephrolepis, 34; davaliioidcs fiircansi 35; cn/tata, 305 ; exaltata plumusa, 401 Nettle tree, the, 172 Neumannia nigra, 327 Neurogrammas, 54 New Forest, the. 586 Newry, flowers from, 408 ; notes from, 451 Nigifta daviascena, 130 Nigellas, the, 178 Nooks and corners, 109 Novelties, 39 Nursery garden, Irish, an, 210; orders, 91 Nuts, precocious, 131 Nxittallia cerasifonnis, 140 Nymphiea zanzibarensis flore-rubro, 508 Oak, the, 108 ; barking. 450 ; Black Jack, the, 8 ; coppice, soils for, 490 ; Cork, the, 542 ; golden, 575 Oaks, American, in Belgium, 380 Obituary — Ainsworth, Dr., 285 Alexander, J., 425 Baxter, W. H.,009 Caudwell, Mr., 309 Cheetham, J., 449 Clarke, J., 585 Flood, J., 449 Harrison, T., 201 Henderson, J., 91 Hendei-son, P., 141 Low, S. H. 425 Mackintosh, J., 107 Marshall, J., 309 Owen, Miss, 403, 407 Parry, Dr., 285 Rawlings, J., 503 Robinson, J., 449 Treherne, J., LOd Wildsmith, W., 117, 141 WUhams, B. S., G09 WooUey, D., 449 Young, M., 213 Odontoglossum Alexandria, 33, 223, 398, 510 ; A. Cooksoni, 289 ; A. ttaveolum, 102 ; A. gut- tatum, 325 ; A., with yellow flowers, 200 ; Andersonianum, 165, 383 ; EUisi, 398 ; baphi- cauthum, 398; blandum, 11, 35; Broomea- num, 141 ; citrosmum, SiiO ; crispum, 84 ; c. Wolstenholmiae, 130 ; Edwardi, 121 ; ele- gans, 104, 582 ; excellens, 424 ; Galeotti- anum, 561 ; gi-ande, 307 ; Harryanum, 95 ; Hunnewellianum, 130; hybridum Leroy- anum, 550 ; Jacombianum, 11 ; maculatum, 105 ; maculatum anceps, 472, 495 ; madrense, 288; nebulosmu pardinum, 11; new, a, 102; oduratum, 424; Pescatorei, 257,591; P. melanocentrum, 259, 288 ; P. Mrs. G. W. Palmer, 401 ; P. Tilgate var., 501 ; polyxan- thum, 452 ; Reichenheimi, 424 ; Rossi Amesianum, 250; R. majus, 10; Smee- aiumi, 582 ; triumphans, 223, 324 ; t, am-cinn, 401 ; vexillarium, 223 ; vexilla- rium (Le Doux's variety), 401 ; Wardianum, 3r. ; Wattianum, 410 ; Wendlandi, 551 ; Wilckeainun, 95, 175 ; Youngi, 84 Odontoglossmns, 83; at Cheam Park, 105; at Highbury Park, 21 ; at Mr. Bull's, 300; at The Grove, Tcddington, 517 ; treatment of, 257 Oil, paraflin, as a fruit tree cleanser, 07 Olearia macrodonta 592 Oliver, R-tjf., resignation of, 499 Oncidium ampliatum majus, 397, 447; con- color. 453, 593, 521 ; cucullatum majus, 175; Larkinianum, 259, 325 ; rctusum, 307 ; Kogei'si, 500, 522 ; sarcodes, 325, 307, 515 ; splendidum, 11, 105; stelligerum and its varieties, 550 ; superbiens, 423 ; tetrapc- talum, 424 Onion culture, notes on, 232 ; Flat Tripo'i, 232 ; Giobe Trij^oli or AJadtira, 232 ; Indian Tripoli, 232 Onions, long-necked, 5 Onychium japonicum, 283 Orange Ball tree, 523 Orange culture, 199 ; at Jixffa, 278 ; in the open, 02 Oranges, Japanese, in California, 228 ; mal- formed, 145 Orchard and home nursery, the 430 Orchard trees, impoverished, 19, 75 ; prun- ing, 75 Orcliards. old, renovating, 197, 242; winter moth in, 14(1, lOJ, 199, 242, 291, 338 Orchid latalo^aie. a new, 10; flowers, 551; from Arddarroch, 300 ; from Cheam Park, 102; in New York, 233; house, building an, 519 ; meadow, an, 583 Orchids at Bristol, 102 ; at Camden Wood, ( 'hislchurst, 250 ; at Kew, 22, 96 ; at Mr. Bull's, 522 ; at Southampton, 224 ; at Stud- ley House, 72 ; British, notes on, 517 ; from Devon, 499; from Haslemere, 190; from Mmchinhampton, 95 ; from Perth, 332 ; hardy, at Chiswick, 384 ; hybrid, two good, 224 ; Moth, at Egham, 95 ; naming, 494 ; two singular, 257 ; virulent disease of, 211 Orchidists deceived, 524 ; please note, 201 Orchis fusca, 522 ; Robertiana, 235, 257 Ornaiiiental ptanting, 350 ()rnitlinf,Mhnii lutifulium, 524 On'Vius vernus alluis pi., 483 Orphan Fete, Gardeners', 494 Orphan Fund, Gardeners', 17, 07, 122, 235, 285, 333, 408, 453, 541 Osoberry, 146 Om-isia coccinea, 507, 532 OxaliB Boicifanrt., 509 ; crtnot't, 509 ; Deppci, 509; enneaphylla, 4-iii;fioribi'nda, 509; Port Stanley, 448 Oxalises, 50S P. Pseonia conchiflora, 532 ; Moutan, 121, 540 Pffionies, 571 ; at theDrillHall, Westminster, 562 ; herbaceous, 523 ; old Tree, 507 ; Tree, 209, 524 Pseouy Beatrice Kelway, 472 ; Berlioz, 007 ; Danberton 007 ; Duchess of Teck, 501 ; old double crimson, 544; Princess Mary, 501 ; Sainfoin, 501 ; Stanley, 501 ; Tree or Mou- tan, 480 ; Tree, good specimen of, 4S1 Palazzo Orengo, La Mortola, 237 Palms in the open air, 234, 205, 272, 304 two good, 274 Pancratium amoMum, a fine specimen of, 303 ; illyricum, 524 Pancratiums, 303, 340, 372, 421 Panicum plicatum, 245 ; virgatum, 245 Pansy, the, 40 ; Eynsford Yellow, 472 ; in flower, 233 ; Snowflake, 407 Pansies, fancy, 524 ; from seed, 45 ; in the parks, 585 ; striated, 544 ; tufted, 484, 530, 585 Paphinia grandis, 250. 200, 447 ; Randi, 211 Paris, winter flnwers in, 215 Park, a, for New Southgatc, 359 ; scenery, improvement of, 92 Parks, American, 314 ; and London County Council, 332 ; and open spaces, 544 ; fences in, 121 ; planting trees in, 386 Parliament Hill, 523 Parrotia persica, SO Parsley, 251 ; in winter, 5, .57, 125 ; scarcity of, 194, 233 Parsnip, the, 251 Parsniiis, late sown, 22 ; when to sow, 59 Passijli.ra pnnceps and P. quadrargutaris^ cut Jiowtring &prnyi of, 5S4 Passion Flowers for cutting 584 Pau, flowers at, 290 ; notes from, 357 Pavias, the, 489 Pavonia Makovana, 111 Pea Challenge the World, 307 ; Champion uf England, 318; Duke of Albany, 101; Tri- umph, 59, 281 Pea, Sweet, yellow, a, 233 Peas, Sweet, 330; early, 383 ; rfoMtrijif/ fprayi of in a vase, 330 Peas, best position for, 417 ; and birds, 440 ; early, 99, 188, 519, 555 ; early market, 682 ; hardy, 540 ; improvement amongst during the last quarter of a century, 418 ; Laxtou's, 458 ; notes on, 125 ; on shallow and dry soils, 151 ; without stakes, 281 Peach, culture of, on open walls, 230; and Nectarine trees, 358; buds dropping, 131 ; houses, bud-dropping in, 02, 181 ; leaves, scalded, 600 ; Rivers' Early York, 240, 292 ; shoots, gumming of, 535 ; trees, 276 ; trees, honcydew on, 228 ; trees, late pruning of, 89 ; trees, wall, uimailing. 410 Peaches, disbudding, 478 000 ; early, f 01 ; in coldliouse, 515 ; indoor, 240 ; on walls, 200, 291, 312, 434 ; ripe, dropping, 578 Pear Bcurrd Diel, 241 ; Betirrt Die', 241 ; Knight's Monarch, 133; I'lnconnue, 93; Marie Loui-e d'L'ccle gruun on a uali, 477 ; Winter Nelis, 10 Pears, 122, 183, 513; choice, for profit, 93; dessert, 270 ; late, 71, 93, 101 ; late, for profit, 198, 243 ; useful, for a succession, 02 Pears and Apples, extension-trained on dwarfing stocks, 55 ; for Hants, 88 ; Tas- manian, Australian, and New Zealand, 54 Pearl Bush, the, 380, 449 Pelargonium Galilee, 558 ; Jealousy, 400 ; Jtalouyy plantfd out, 400; Midsummer, 007 Pelargoniums, new, 500 ; seldom seen, 347 ; winter-flowering, 77, 127, 180, 247 ; zonal, cut, in a vase, 77 Pentxtmoi centinnoide^ (Hariwegl), 603 Menziesi, 495 ; the, 003 Pentstemons, 1 90 Peperomia resedfeflora, 371 Pepinia aphclandra flora, 112, 328 Peristeria guttata, 324 Perncttyas, 123; as pot jilants, lU ; in the conservatory, 209 Pescatorea eerina, 84 Petroeallis pyrenaica, 4S3 Phaius, 175 ; grandifolius, 105 ; Humbloti albus, 5(il ; hybridus Cooksoni, i59 ; tuber- culosus, 288, 423 Phalienopsis casta, 83 ; Imperati, 447 ; L\id- demanniana, 324, 453 ; Manni, 503 ; Micho- letzi, 453 ; speciosa macnlata. {S3 Phalitiiopsids at Cheam Park, 11 ; at Egham, 95 Ph.aleria laurifolia, 247 Philadelphus grandiflnrus. 197 ; inodorus, 30S ; Lemoinei erectus, 539 ; microphvUus, 607 PhiUyrea Vihiioruiiana, 502 Phlox. divaricata, 507; nivalis, 507 Phlnxes, herbaceous, from seed, 47 Phcenix Rcebclini, 259 Phtenocoma, 575 Phormiums by waterside, 24 Photinia ovata, 560 ; serrulata, 500 Phyllocactus nitens, 570 Phyllocactuses, .506 Phylloxera and tank borders, 15, 34, 87, 93 Picea Breweriaua, 214 ; concolor violacca, 123 ; pectinata, 214 Pilunma fragrans, 325 ; violacca, 71 Pine, Austrian, the, 29, 450 ; Corsican, the, 310, 350; Crimean, the, 29; Oregon, and its probable uses, 192 ; woods, 420 ; vellow, wo)i of the, 542 July 5, 1890.] THE GAKDEN INDEX IX Piues on moimtaiiis, 202 pink, the, 40, 395 ; Cheddar, the, 567 ; com- mon white, the, (i ; florists' laced, the, 43 ; show, a, 544 Pinks, 4S2 ; alpine, 8, 254, 289 ; border, seed- ling, (i04 Pinus austriaca, 29, 450 ; Benthamiana, 230 ; Cembra, 444 ; densiftom, lOS ; Edgariana, 108 ; halepensis, insects on, 520 ; Jeffreyi, 2S0 ; koraiensis, 444 ; Laricio, 310, 350 ; macrocarpa, 444 ; mm-icata, 315 ; Pallasiana, 29 ; parviflora, 444 ; sj-lvestris, 08 Pitcairnias, 575 Pits, propivgatiug, 10 Pittosporum Tobira, 172 Plant, an old fine-foliiiged, 27 ; diseases, 40S ; houses, notes on, 37, 00 ; houses, shading, 273, 325 ; houses, work in, 103, 135, 153, 179, 204, 218, 253, 208, 295, 328, 339, 373, 390, 414,434, 468, 487, 511, 520, 552, 579,004; labels, 434 ; names, English, {Ki ; nomen- clature, 551 ; rai-e, a, 355 ; remarkable, a, 383 ; shelters, 102 Plants, flowering, for a cold frame, 150 ; for a stony soil, 200 ; for walls, 77 ; packing, 220 ; protection for, 204 ; training, 225 ; under trees, 170 ; useful, from seed, 149 ; yellow-flowered, 483 Plantations, cattle browsing in, 450 ; hard- wood, thinning, 202 ; mixed, 542 ; new, forming, 108 ; nurses for, 202 Planting, faulty, 485 Platycerium angolense, 520; biforme, 525, 585 ; Wallichi, 520 ; Willincki, 525 Pleasure ground, the, SO Pleasure grnuuds at Kew, 453 Pleione humjii-'' tricolor, 174 Pleroma elegans, 340 Pleurothallis immcrsa, 250, 257 ; rubens, 594 Plum Angelina Burdett, 337 ; Cherry, for hedges, 450 ; Grcm Gage, a fyaiiinq branch or, 409 , Plum trees in Japan, 2S5 ; seedling, treat- ment of, 285 Plums, 300 Plumbago rosea, 373 Podocarpus alpinus, 210 Podophyllum Kitiodi, 320 Podoph3iluiiis, 4S3 Poinsettias, late-flowering, 29 ; seedling, 28 Polemonium flavum, 589 Polyanthus Terra-cotta, 353 Polyanthuses, dividing, 220 ; yellow, 430 Polygala myrtifolia grandiflora, 423 Polypodium vulgare var. trichomauoides, 53, 80 ' Polypodiums, 10 Polystichum Richardsi multifidum, 54 Pondweed, Cape, the, 524 Poplar, bhick Italian, the, 108 ; Lumbardv. the, 474 Poppy, Horned, the, 572 ; Oriental, varieties of the, 544 Poppies, Shirley, 572 Populus certinensis, 370 Potassium, svdpliide of, 117, 145 Potato, a productive, 282 ; planting, 328 ; shoots, early, thinning, 480 Potatoes, a glut of, 377 ; and double crop- ping, 351 ; and succession crops, 418 ; early, and frost, 352 ; for a sandy loam, 233 ; garden refuse for, 125 ; home-gi-own and imported, 458 ; late-planted, 5'>5 ; planting, 349 ; seed, 70, ]20 ; v. weeds, 370 Potentilla lupinuides, 507 Pothos fuitida, 240 Primrose Blue Gem, r» ; Eynsfnrd Pink, 00 ; Eynsford Red, 06; garden, a, 430; Her Slajesty, 00 ; Japan, the, 549 ; margined, the, 249 ; ( Jakw.njd Blue, 3i3 ; Red Gaunt- let, 401 ; white, a useful, 448 Primroses, 2S ; alpine, 332, 303 ; at Christ- mas, 71 ; Cape, the, 39!> ; Chinese, of to- day, 22 ; hardy, naming, 302 ; in Scotland, 408 ; on Grass, 407 ; inider glass, 340 ; white, 437, 484 Primroses and Pol j-anth uses, 448 ; at Bettes- hanger, 405 ; coloured, 407 Primula, Chinese, double - flowered, 120 ; Chinese, double tioirers of the, 127 ; Clusiana, 302 ; cortusoides, 400, 447 ; denticulata, 121,332, 400; fioribunda, 212; Gobli, 405, 508 ; intermedia, 407, 437, 508 ; japonica, 524; marginata, 249; nivea, 284; Reidi, 544 ; rosea, 302, 484 ; r. splendens, 447 ; rotundifolia, 447 ; Sieboldi, 122, 450 ; .S. alba magnifica, 472 ; H. Bruce Findlay, 401 ; S. Distinction, 401 ; sikklmensis, 508 ; suffrutescens, 507, 508 ; Waltham White, 32S Primulas, Chinese, 145, 187, 597 ; fr ,m Chel- sea, 90 ; hardy, 304 ; single, 235 ; single white, 483 ; two useful, 507 Privet, the, 8 Privets, the'common and othei', 79 Propagating house, the, 51 Prophet Flower, 438 Prumnopitys elegans, 410, 370, 444 Prunus divaricita, 300 ; Pissardi forced 90 Psychotria cyanococca, 140, 148 ' ' Pteris serrulata gloriosa, 60 Pterozonium reniforme, 550 Pumps, chain, in gardens, 200 Purslane Tree, the, 239 Pyrus arbutifolia, 502 ; japonica not flower- ing, 210, 239 ; Maulei, 124 ; spectabilis, 491 Pyxidanthera barbiilata, 353 Q. Quercvis concordia, 575 ; Lucombeana, 30 ; nigi-a, S R. Rabljit netting, 118 Ra.diation, 479 Rainfall durmg 1889, 191, 212, 235, 449 Raisins, cultivation of, in California, 411 Ramondia, a fine, 004; pyrenaica alba, 71, 508 ; pyrenaica in Dtrbyshirc, 31 Ramondias, 30, 521 Ranunculus, tlie, 138, 203 ; anemonoides, 16, 90, 1-22, ITS ; rutsefolius, 122 Raphiiilcpis walicifolia, 29 Redwood Forest, the, 520 Regent's Park, 314 Reichenbach's, Professor, collection, removal of, 10 Restrepia striata, 257 Retuiospora filifera aurea, 592 ; pisifera for hedges, 142 Rheum palmatum, 573 Rhipsiilis, the, 187 ; suliconiioides, 47 Rhododendron, abeautifulind'Mir, 145; Ajax, 007; arboreum, 413; arbors ma in theMortof Anntsleys f/arden at Ca-fdcrellan, 413 ; arboreum roseum, 112; argenteum, 185; Auckland!, 408 ; Aucklandi in the Isle of Wight, 451 ; blandfordiaeflorum, 454 ; Ce- lestial and omniflorum, 289 ; ciliatum, 247, 370 ; cinnabarinum, 500 ; Countess of Had- dington, 121, 423; double white, 348; Fal- coneri, 384, 442 ; Falconeri at Dorking, 454; formosum, 271, 304 ; Gibsoni, 305; glaucum, 500 ; gi-ande, 209 ; hirsutum, 539 ; La Belle, 444 ; Maddeni. 597 ; Mar- chioness of Lansdowne, 575 ; Nuttalli, 247 ; precox rubrum, 145, 210 ; Queen of Dwarfs, 290 ; Rosy Bell, 371 ; seedling, 212 ; Thom- suni, 454 ; Williamsi. 401, 408 Rhodddendrnns at Duneevan, 538 ; and Lilitjs, Sikkini, 475; dwarf, early-flowered, 10s ; early til iwering, 19ii ; forced, at Can- fiird Manor, 273 ; garden, 448; greenhouse, 32iJ ; gi'ouped for colour, 335, 383 ; hardy, value of, 574 ; in America, 400 ; in Hyde Park, 514 ; leaf-bracts of, 400 ; uncommon, two, 454 Rhubarb, blanching, 250 ; presei*ve, 555 ; Scott's Crimson, 451 Rhus toxicodendron, "9 Ribes albidum, 316; Lubbi, 30; sanguineum, 383 Richardia melanoleuca, 359 Riciiuis, the, in Austria, 190 Rings of a tree, counting the, 426 Robinia pseudacacia, timber of, 450 Rockerj-, an amatevu's, 571 ; new, ut Tlie Dell, Egham, 95 Rodgersia podophylla, 122, £00, 590 Rolfe, R. A., 289, 332 Rondeletia anitena, 201, 326 Rosa gracilis, 480; lutea Harrisuni, 566; seri- cea, 539 Rose, alpine, 539 ; beautiful, a, 544 ; Bouquet d'Or. 180; Bvirnet, the, 140; Cloth of Gold, 439 590 ; colours, 25 ; crosses, Sweet Brier, 501 ; Docteur Grill, 56, 140, 143, 190 ; Duchess of Albany, 218; Emilie Dupuy, 438, 453; fair, a 590; Gloire de Dijr»n, 288, 398, 544, 589 ; Guelder, the, 539 ; Harrison's Yellow, 560;Honier, 506, 588; influence of the stock, 140 ; Isabella Sprunt, 140; J. I). Pawle, 607 ; La France de 1889, 5b7; MarL-hinness uf Lurne, 607 ; Mar^chal Niol, -isO, 4!''.'. 543, 50(3, 587; Mar^chal Niel, unhealthy, 439 ; Mar^chal Niel, variation of, 288 ; Mme. Iloste, 218; Mme. Willermoz, 439; Marie Van Houtte, 3 ; Mrs. Paul, 007 ; Niphetos, 383 ; notes, 1 43 ; prospects, 497 ; Revo d'Or, 587 ; Rose of May, 439 ; Souveiur de S. A. Prince, 336; W. A. Richardson, 288, 398, 439, 587 Roses, among the, January, 1890, 1 ; after the frost, 336 ; at Vienna, 544 ; Austrian Brier, 588 ; nutunin. a (jrovp of, 73 ; Banksian, 439 ; decorative, ?5 ; destroying mildew on, 336 ; early, 505 ; early summer. 588 ; early autumnal, planting of, 1 ; first, tlie, 566 ; forced, 336; frost amongst, 287, 330, 398; Gallica or French, 588 ; in autumn, 73, 143 ; in flower, 56b ; in June, amongst the, 543 ; in May, amongst the, 498 ; in pots, 129,' 497 ; in the flower garden, 588 ; in the land- scape, 497 ; in the open air, 1 JO ; late planting of, 143 ; layeiing, in China, 588 Roses, Lenten, 72, 146, 265; Moss, 498, 588; new for 1890, 170 ; notes on, 588 ; on trees, 587 ; own-root, 140; prunmg, 2, 144, 330; rain amongst the, 565 ; selection of, 498 ; spine- less, 288 ; Tea, 25, 143 ; where they suc- ceed, 144 ; yellow, 460 Rose, Christmas, St. Brigid, 16 Roses, Christmas, green-fly on, 70 ; at Broms- grove, 48 Rubbish yard, the, 15 Rubus delieiosus, 495 Rudgea macropliylla, 373 Ruellia formosa, 492; macrantha, 8i; soli- taria, 28 Ruscuses, the, 178 Russcllia juncea, 576 Saccolabium bellinum, 84, 102 ; gigantcum album, 84 Sacred Lily, Chinese, or Juss Flower, '^70 St. Anne's, flowers from, 453 St. John's, Oxford, flowers at, 523 Salad for winter, 233 Saladings, 351 Salads, pi.ipularity of, 581 Salvia boliviana verticlllata, 272 ; patens, 178 Salvias and Japan Anemones, 319 Sanchezia nobilis, 49 Sarcanthus turL'titdius, 120 Sareochilus BcrkLlt-yi, 452 Sarcopodiiim Godsctfianum, 607 Sarraceuia purpurea, 320 Saxifraga Boydi, 212 ; Bui-seriana, 9Q ; Cam- posi, 454 ; gramUata, 254 ; imbricata, 212 ; luteo-puiijurea, 191, 205; macropetala, 234; Molyi, 212; oppositifolia, 285; o. splendens, 290 ; Rocheliana, 361 ; umbrosa Colvillei, 532 Saxifrages, broad-leaved, 395, 500 ; winter- flowering, 178 Schaueria calycotricha, 21 Scilla bifolia alba, 265, 289 ; b. rubra, 302 ; b., varieties of, 212; campanulata v:u-s., 531 ; itahca, 'c9Q Scilly, flowers at, 95 Scilly Islands, the, 332 Scoliopus Bigelowi, 99, 191 Scotland, west of, weather in, 146 Scuticaria Hadweni, 255 Sea Hollies, 97 Seaforthia elegans, flowering of, 217 Seakale, blanching, 19i, 251, 282, 318; cul- ture of, 251; fiircing and gi-owing, 4, 76 ; Lily White, 101 Season, the, 91 Seed order, the, 40 Seed-sowing, 212; preparing for, 194 Seeds in date! ]japers, 217 Selaginclla D..iiKl;i~i, 212 Selbnnio, wild plants of, 274, 2.S7 ShoItL-i-, iilautiut4f"r, 496 Sh'irtiagalacifnlia, S90 Shrub, a beautiful, 524 ; a handsome varie- gated, 560 Shrubs, choice flowci'ing, 43 ; covert, raising, 542, blO ; early- flowering, 65, 108 ; for Hants, 78; Irardy, itrnpagating, 592; in the pine- tum, 568; sumc native, fur covert and like uses, 2£8 ; sweet-scented, 213, 216 ; tliree good winter-flowering, 212 Shrubs and trees, deciduous, for smMl gar- dens, 489 ; for wet gi-ound, 474 ; lecture on, 454 Shrubbery beds, sweet-scented, 169 ; borders, 79 Shrubbeides, arrangement of, 1€0 Silene raaritima, 507 Siphocampylus Humbiddtianus, SO Sisyi'inchium gi-andiflurum, 283 ; pinuatum, 362 Slugs in the garden, 396 ; to kill, 377 Smyrna, notes from, 215, 357 Snowdrop, double, the, 212 ; names, 70, 94, 140, 178 Snowdrops, 48 ; -d Exhibm ions— Auricula exhiliitinii, 402 Bedford Park Gardeiiing, 425 Britisli Fruit Growers' Association, 408, 493 Chiswick Horticultural, 201 Crystal Palace. 333, 471 Daffodil exhilntii'U, 377; and conference at Chiswick, 3;-t3 Groups at Manchester, 541 Horticultural of Prussia, 284 Linnean, 544 L'Orchideenne, 200 National Chi-ysanthenium, 42, 117, 190, 4S3 ; centenary festival, iil3 National Co-operative, 494 National Dahlia, 190 Societies and Exhibitions — continued — National Rose, 283, 609 National Tidip, 449 ■ Royal Aquarium, 260, 42.3 493 Royal Botanic, 309, 403, 473, 495, 5 32; fe;ist of flowers 003 Royal Horticultural, 06. 165, 2:9. :07. 353, 401, 454, 471, 501, 607 ; and ahall fur horti- cultm-e, 71 ; and the 1-52 exhibition, 585 Tea Rose show, 60S Temple show, 5i7 ; hardy flowers at the, 548 United Horticultural and Benefit 07, 167, 300 Soil, condition of the, 91 ; surface of, stindng the, 420 SoLanum crispum, 500 ; species of, at Mor- tola, 509 ; Wendlandi, 104, 500 Sonerila margaritacea, 247 Sophronitis grandiflora, 359 ; vlolacea, 71 , 130 Sorrels, Wood, the, 508 Sparaxis lut«a, 360 Sparrows and Peas, 151 Spathoglottis Kimballiana, 257 ; Lobbi, 02, 130 Spir*a arguta, 483 ; astilboides, 111, 457, 484 ; laevigata, 491 ; Thunbergi, 190 ; trilobata, 559 Spiraeas for forcmg, 371 ; shrubby, the best, 592 Spring flower, a beautiful, 201 Spring flowers, early, in Clieshire, 69 ; early, at Haarlem, 169 ; early, at Long Ditton, 48 ; light-hued, 405 Spring-flowering plants, disposing of, 482 Spring gardening at Kew, j21; Mr. Ingi'am on, 354 Spring Satin Flowers, 302 Sjnuce, Blue, some American opinions on, 310; Hemlock, 401; Hemlock, hedges of, lis Squill, early varieties of the, 212; Italian 396 Squills, the, 17 Staphylea colchica, ' 234 ; colchica, forced 148 Starflower. spring, in masses, 383 Star of Bethlehem, drooping, 364 St^tice floriViunda, 83 Stephanotis fruiting, 289 Strawben-y Auguste Nicaise, 354, 3'>9. 500 ; earliest, 567 ; Edouard Lefort, 200 ; Keen's Seedling, 407 ; La Grosse Sucne, 407 ; late i)otted, 601 ; notes on. 600 ; runners on turf, rooting, 31, 88 Strawberries, best flavoured, the, 577 ; early, 577; for market, 578; forcing, 131, 198, 311, 337, 429 ; forcing, eju-ly, 358, 410 ; layering and planting, 1\ Strawsonizer machine, the new, e09 Strelitzia Nicolai, 261 ; Nicolai, 327 ; Reginse, 327, 355 Streptocarpus, the, 399 Strej^tosolen Jamesoni, 191 Strnlalaiitlies isophyllus, 10, 95 StnithiMpteris germanica forced, 21 r-;tuartia pcntagyiia, 491; virginica, 491 Stvrax japonica, fi74 Succulents, 300 ; for bedding, 455 Sudbrouk Park. 121 Sugar-cane, seedlings of, 284 Svdphide of potassium, i 7 Sundew, double-leaved, 348 SuiTey garden, hardy flowers in a, 436 Sioanmore Park, Garrya etliptica on a porch at, 501 Symplocarpus foetidus, 213, 246 T. Tacca artocarpifolia, 384 Taccanim Wamiingianum, 355 Taxodium distichum, 538 Tecoma nidicans, 19i) Teciiphylaea cyanocrocus, 213, 181 Tcllima par\'iflora, 447 Temple, flowers at the, f 00 Thalictruni Delavayi, 568 Tliaw, a, in winter, 69 Thoni, Sallow, the, 16 ; Washington, the, 29 Thiirns, 467 ; and Lilacs, 316 ; in Greenwich Park, 499 Thrumptoii Hall, 267 Thmmptun Ilati, Ktguorth, De>by, 267 Ihi'jo, onentalis elegantisiitna in the grtrdcn at Castlewellan, 443 Thujopsis dulobrata, 444, 5C0 Tlmnbergia Hanisi, 32*1 Thunia ionnplilebia, 470 Thunias, 583 ThjTsacauthus rutilans, 332 Tilia argentea, 214 Tillaudsia Lindeni, 112; u6iuoid(s, 221 Timber, crooked, value of, 44 ; quality of, IS, 92 ; soundness of, testing, by tapping, 44 ; when to cut, 286 Tinnsea sethiopicA, 273 THE GAEDEN INDEX [July 5, 1890. Todea superba, 213 Todeas, 173 Tomato, Ilathavai/'s Excehior, 513 ; con- ference, 5 ; cultivation in Sussex, 411 ; culture, 556 ; Horsford's Prelude, 5S9 ; large r&f, 51H ; new, a, 555 ; Tree, \^ Tomatoes, 6, 124, 250, 318, 410, 486 ; diseases of, 4l7, 4S'i ; early, 5 ; in America, 5^0; in pits, 45S ; in the open, 512 ; unhealthy, 459 Tomtits, feeding, 193, 275 Toxicophlgea spectabilis, 423 ; Thuubergi, 95 Trachycarpus Griffithi, 492 Transplanting, new light on, 142, 192 Tree planting on waste land, fS Tree stems, earthing round, 118, 16R, 563 Tree trunks, elongation of. 44, 92. 118 Trees, fast-growing, timber of. 520 ; for avenues, (iS ; for smoky localities 450 ; growth of, 80, 92, 142; habits of, 142; hard-wooded, over-thinning, 142 ; in Knole Park, 385 ; in parks grouping, 450 ; nurses for, 586 ; on the sea-coast at Dover. 502 ; ornamental, what are? 356; planting, in parks, 386 ; scarce, with crimson foliage, 171 ; .street, 65; varieties of, 118; young, rodents barking, 334 Trees and shrubs around London, 238 ; at Kew, 503 ; deciduous, for small gardens, 489 ; for w^et groimd, 474 ; in flower, 306 ; lecture on. 454 ; winter notes on^ 3£2 Trich-inch pot, or two round the sides of the larger size. Each plant should be sunk into the soil up to the seed leaves and not hard pressed in the fixing. Given the benefit of a little bottom-heat and slight shade from bright sunshine for a few days, water being given \ery rarefuUy, the plants soon recover their original green colour and commence to root strongly, when the sooner they are again placed on shelves or raised nearer the glass the greater the certainty of their sturdi- ness being preserved. By the time the pots are well filled with roots, the fruiting pots, tubs, boxes, or ridges of soil ought to be ready for the plants' reception. It necessary a light stake ought to be placed to each plant in order to keep the stems erect. M. H. Lawn Grass as a manure.— Some few years back I wanted to clear up our refuse yard and had no convenient place to put the short Grass gathered therein during the previous summer. It struck me, however, to apply it as a manure to a pasture field, and the effects were highly satisfactory. The Grass soon assumed a darker colour, and the dividing line could be seen distinctly at a long distance. This induced me to reserve the mowings afterwards as a manure for kitchen garden crops, and I am pleased to say with very gratifying results. This last spring I had a plot manured with short Grass refuse only that was well decomposed, and another plot adjoining was manured with cow manure which had been previously turned. The growth on each plot during the summer was watched closely, the crops consisting in each case of Onions, Parsnips, Beetroot, and Carrots. The results were that the lawn Grass refuse fully held its own against the cow-yard manure ; in fact some who saw the trial thought the former had rather the best of it. I have been induced to pen these few remarks think- ing they may be of service to those who are not over supplied vrith manure for kitchen garden crops. — J. H. Parsley in winter. — In some gardens there is considerable difliculty during the winter months in obtaining a supply of green Parsley. At the present time we are enabled to gather more than I ever remember at the same time of the year, which I attribute to the position in which the Parsley is growing. In the course of an alteration and ex- tension of the garden a large heap of soil, which was composed mainly of clay with which was mixed many large stones, had to be got rid of. A bank 4 feet high was formed on the east and north sides of the enclosed additional piece of land, and on the top of the bank was planted Spruce Firs as a shelter. In March of 1888 was sown in shallow drills on the southern slope of this bank seed of Imperial Curled Parsley, and a little fine sandy soil used to cover the seed. When the seedlings were large enough to handle they were thinned to (J inches apart, 'i'he plants grew vigorously in spite of several spells of dry weather. During last spring a few plants only ran to seed. These were either removed or the seed spikes cut oS. Early last May to increase the stock some seedlings were planted on the same border during showery weather, these growing freely. The leaves were stiff and hard and in a much better condition to withstand frost than if the plants had been growing on highly manured light soil where the growth might have been quicker, but sappy, and in a worse condition to stand through the winter. It is not everyone who has such a position on which to grow Parsley, I know, but the success of this trial only shows how such places may be utilised for many things. This being a warm sunny bank, single Violets would no doubt succeed admirably. — S. Flower Garden. LILIES. " Delta " has done well to tell us of hi.s failures in the culture of Lilies. If everybody would be as explicit in detailing their failures in other direc- tions the lessons taught would be often of more real value than are records of successes, because we should then learn what to avoid as well as what methods to follow. Lilies doubtless present more failures in culture than any other bulbs, or, indeed, any plants. Orchids, in spite of their costliness, seem to be grown easily enough in these days, but the Lily trade has fattened upon failures. Were these not so common, our gardens ere now must have been literally flooded with Lilies. Their fate seems to be to be sold and to die. lam disposed to think one cause of the comparative failure found in imported bulbs is that our market is supplied with the largest, and the bigger they are the less are they fitted to withstand the exigencies of ex- portation. The bulbs at home are grown up to their highest blooming capacity, just as Dutch Hyacinths are, to satisfy the requirements of the British mar- ket, and they are in that condition less fitted to be robbed of their ordinary base roots than are they at any previous time in their existence. If the THE GARDEN [Jan. 4, 1890. bulbs imported were one half the age and size, the chances are they could be then grown on here with greater certainty and success. A few years since I raised what proved to be a very fine form of L. auratnm from seed. The bulb eventually produced several stems and a great head of bloom, then began to decay. I found it was need- ful, to save It from absolute destruction, to break it up into three parts, clean off every rotting scale, and repot them, in a sadly dwindled condition, into small pots. One died, two lived, and are now getting strong. I have no doubt they will become large bulbs, and bloom finely about two years hence, then go off as before. I take it that all big bulbs have gone through similar experiences, though it would seem as if the bulk died. Lilium candidum is so hardy a kind that it does not come into the same category with ordinary imported bulbs, and yet that is far from being the common variety It used to be. A dozen years since, even in our stiff soil, it was abundant everywhere. Now it is far from being common, and I attribute its decadence chiefly to the fungus, not unlike that of the Onion, which strips the leaves from the stems, leaving them mere bare poles, and it also materially weakens the bulbs, so that in time many are un- able to throw up stems. The fine groups of Lilies we sometimes see at shows furnished by the trade are misleading in so far that they represent chiefly the pick of the importations, perhaps the best of thousands, whilst the failures are not heard of. If " Delta's " story of his misfortunes in Lily culture should lead to some practical discussion, from out of which it may be possible to glean information leading to the avoidance of failures in future, good service will have been rendered to thousands who now purchase Lilies and fail to preserve them. A. D. Blue Gem Primrose.— It may interest those who saw this novelty at the Westminster Drill Hall last spring to learn that blooming in the open ground it still shows the real blue tint in its flowers —evidence of constancy. Primroses seeded very sparsely last year ; hence I have but two or three seedlings from the variety, and I shall not lift nor divide the original plant this year, as I want to get seed, and this is difficult when plants are disturbed. It is amusing to find how persons, so soon as a seedling Primrose is shown, jump to the conclusion that 50 or 100 plants will have been produced from it by division. Even with favour- able seasons it would take five years to work up any appreciable stock of a thing of this sort. Therefore, when a certificate is granted, no one can say that the giving of such an award is a trade mark. But I have known the facility with which plants can be increased by the trade made a reason for granting a certificate of merit, whilst the converse has mihtated against the granting of a certificate. Members of committees authorised to make awards to plants of merit ought to be blind to the probable trade future of novelties. — A. D. The common white Pink.— It may seem superfluous to allude to the merits of such an old favourite, but I have often thought that a more free use of it would do much to relieve the rather mo- notonous aspect of the outdoor garden in winter. There is something very cheerful-looking in the white Pink at this season, especially when, as is so often the case in cottage gardens, it is allowed to form masses of foliage 3 feet or more across. It is noteworthy of this old flower that it never suffers during the winter, the foliage remaining fresh and bright through periods of severe and changeable weather, that injure or ruin the appear- ance of many hardy things. With the exception of the old Clove, it is the only member of the family that enjoys such immunity from adverse climatal influences. There are not the annual propa- gation and troublesome details of planting and after care that must be incurred with Carnations gene- rally and many of the choice kinds of Pinks, while every year there will be sure to be an abundance of fragrant flowers for cutting. What can be more beautiful than masses of this Pink covered with hundreds of pure white deliciously- scented blooms 1 It is not in the least fastidious as to soil ; only let it have plenty of sun and air and room to spread, and it will yearly yield a harvest of fragrant flowers. It makes a capital edging to walks and flower-beds, and has an especially nice appearance as a border to flower-beds on ,the Grass, with which the glaucous foliage contrasts well. In the foreground of shrubberies where the soil is impoverished and gets very dry the common Pink thrives admirably. Indeed, there is no spot so sunburnt and no soil so poor in which it will not grow and bloom. — J. C. B. THE TULIP. I AM interested in all that relates to the Tulip, and carefully read about Tulipa vitellina at page 530, last volume. We are not told very much about the Tulips, new or old, but the writer hazards the question. Where are the new Tulips coming from ? He is evidently not aware that thousands of new seedling Tulips are being raised in Lancashire and Yorkshire on the lines of the best named varieties (seedlings of T. Gesneriana) now in cultivation. I saw a bushel basketful of seedlings of various sized bulbs, all raised from the best rectified varieties. There must have been a thousand bulbs, all different. Some of them have flowered and are a great advance on the old varieties. Some of them have broken into feathered or flamed varieties, but most are still in the heyday of their beauty. The difference between a garden variety of T. Gesneriana and the type is very marked, even although the garden variety is a self, as T. Ges- neriana is. The improved garden forms have a full, open, well-rounded base, beautifully white like a delicate porcelain cup. The petals are broader and so formed at the top that they are almost as regular as the rim of the said cup, and when expanded form half a sphere. The colours are very rich and varied. Seedling breeders (that is, selfs) which may be expected to break into feathered or flamed bizarres are of various shades of yellow, some pale yellow, others orange at the base of the flower. The colour of the flowers varies from a reddish brown to deep red and rich dark maroon ; by and by, in the course of years, it may be three or four or as long as ten, the colour in- stead of remaining solid breaks into streaks. In some cases there is an uneven longitudinal stripe of colour in the centre of each petal— this the fanciers term the beam — the colour strikes off from it in flakes and stripes and it is then termed a flamed flower. Besides the flame there is also a slight feathering of colour round the margin. The re- maining colour is the same as the yellow base. The feathered bizarre has merely a light feathering round the upper margin of the petals. The next class is the byblicmen, and in the breeder form the base of the cup is white, the body of the flower lavender and purple of various shades, some varieties such as Mrs. Jackson being almost black in the feather and flame, and show up so much better owing to the purity of the white. Roses in the breeder form have a pure white base, the body of the flower being rose, rosy red, and in some instances scarlet. It is rather singular that a scarlet Tulip should have a white base, be- cause the base of the cup of the rich-coloured Ver- milion Brilliant is of a rich deep yellow colour, and most of the other rich coloured forms are the same when we come to examine the early flower- ing section. Annie Macgregor (Martin) is described as a brilliant scarlet on a pure white ground, but when the scarlet is minutely examined there is a considerable tint of rose in it. It is really the brightest coloured seedling of the rose-coloured group. The rose and purple-coloured forms in the early flowering class have all white bases to the cup. Anyone desirous of testing the sportive cha- racter of Tulipa Gesneriana may plant, as I once did, 100 bulbs in clumps in the open border and leave them alone for six years or more ; there will in time be plenty of flamed and feathered flowers amongst them, and very many of them slightly streaked with pure white. I have one now beauti- fully feathered and the white of the petals very pure, but the base of the cup is always stained of a blackish blue colour. It is this bluish stain that the Tulip fanciers have removed during years of careful culture, the base being now of the purest white, or, as in the case of bizarres, a clear rich yellow. It is easy enough to raise seedling Tulips, but certainly it is not worth while to do so unless with some definite object in view, and well selected varieties should be chosen as seed and pollen bearers. Each class must be kept distinct by itself. For instance, I alluded to Annie Macgregor as being a good flamed flower ; it is also found in the feathered state. I would cross the feathered form with a good feathered form of the old variety Heroine, a rich deep rose, with the white of ex- quisite purity ; and the result of this cross would most likely give beautiful and distinct feathered varieties. Lea's Industry is also a lovely feathered rose, and would give good results. In the byblce- men class Talisman (Hardy) heads the list as a flamed flower, while Walker's Duchess of Suther- land would make a good seed or pollen parent. Boardman's Mrs. Cooper and Hardy's Nimbus are the best in the feathered class. In the bizarres, feathered, Commander (Marsden) and Sir J. Paxton (Willison) are the best. In the flamed bizarres. Dr. Hardy (Storer) is the best red ground, superior to Everard's Bowler, which long took the lead in the south ; these two are the only va- rieties that have a deep red ground colour. Master- piece (Slater) and Sir J. Paxton both come in as de- lightfully flamed bizarres. With the above varie- ties to work with, or even those contained in one class, thousands of distinct and beautiful flowers mi;;ht soon be obtained. When it is intended to save seeds from a particular flower the anthers must be removed from it before the pollen cases burst. Seeds are easily obtained, and there is no great difficulty in the way of getting plants. One grower says, sow the seeds in November, another in January, and a third obtained the best results by sowing in April. The seeds may be sown in pots, pans, or boxes in light soil and be buried about half an inch deep ; they will vegetate in cold frames, and it will be found at the end of the sea- son that the small bulbs have gone down into the ground to a considerable depth— 2 inches or 3 inches. The following season the small bulbs may be planted out of doors in the month of- October. Some growers nurse their little seedlings for a second year in pots or pans, but this is unnecessary. Some of the bulbs will flower the fourth year, others in the fifth and later, but nearly all of them flower in the self or breeder form ; but in a few rare exceptions the first flowers produced are recti- fied, and they ever remain so. The very distinct and beautiful byblu?men Mrs. Jackson was never seen in the breeder state. I may add that breeder Tulips are much more vigorous than they are when in the rectified state, and when the Tulip passes from one state to the other the transition is readily apparent, and can be seen in the slight variegation discernible in the leaves. There is a National Tulip Society in existence, and its head-quarters is Manchester. Prizes will most likely be offered for seedlings both in the breeder and rectified state, and these prizes may be the means of bringing out some good flowers. J. Douglas. SHORT NOTES.— FLOWER. Galanthus Elwresi.— Our lirst Snowdrop (Ga- lanthus Elwesi) unfolded its flowers in the herbaceous border on Dec. 23 ; the position is south, in front of the kitchen garden wall. The leaves of another batch of roots, not more than 20 feet away on the north side of the rockery, are only about 3 inches high. Is not this early for even this Snowdrop ? — E. M. Alpine Heron'a-bill (Erodinm alpinum).— In The Gabden, Dec. 21, 18sri (p. 587), "A. J. B." asks for information about Erodium alpinum. E. alpinum (I'Heritier) is a very pretty species, the flowers bright rose, appearing in May and June when the plant is growing wild, and, as far as I am aware, it is not in cultivation. It is not an alpine plant, and it can be found only on the low moun- tains of Greece and the south of Italy. I doubt if it is hardy at Geneva, but perhaps it might be in England.— H. Correvon, Geneva, .Tax. f, 1890.7 THE GARDEN. Trees and Shrubs. HEDERA. DENTATA. The Ivy afl'ords instructive study during the winter season, and no variety shows such a depth of green as the variety of Rivgneriana named dentata, which is represented in the accompany- ing engraving. Tliis is a nobh^ Ivy and the largest-leaved of all, the leaves frequently !• inches across, thick, leathery, and plentiful, so as to furnish a dense covering to wall, arbour, or arch. Tiie illustration shows well the kind of position that suits tlie giant ivy. It is useful for places where it would be folly to plant small-leaved kinds, and those who have a posi- tion as that shown in the engraving could not The engraving shows the south face of a brick arch here some 1 1 feet in height, against the foot of which two plants of that grand Ivy, Hedera dentata, were planted about five years ago, one on either hand (unfortunately, that on the right is scarcely shown). They have now not only densely clothed the south side, but have grown over the top and down to the ground on the north side, coveiing just as thickly a much greater surface than is shown in the engrav- ing. There are good places in most large gardens for the Ivy in one or other i>f its various forms ; and liy planting this evergreen climber more, we should find less repetition of the coarse- growing Virginian Creepers that run riot in not a few places. This climber is useful in its proper place, but an undue preponderance of it iMsri^ Hedera dentata over a gateway at The Ivies, Winchmore Hill. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph sent by G. Duffield. quick, and the wonder is the Ivy should have got the reputation of a slow grower. do better than hide its bald ugliness by a cover- ing of Ivy. For clambering over out-houses, large buildings that want covering, and rough structures, there are no finer climbers than the giant Ivies, of which dentata is the best. In The Garden of July 0, 1889 (p. 7), there is an illustration given of a characteristic shoot from a plant growing in th"? Royal Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick, where there is a rich col- lection of the various types. It is not often that we find such a noble specimen as that in Mr. Major's garden at Winchmore Hill, and we are pleased to be able to give an illustration of it, not only to present the variety in one of its finest phases, but to show the rich value of the Ivy as a climber in the garden. We append Mr. Duffi eld's own words regarding it : — creates untidiness, through the litter of falling leaves, and it is excessively coarse, excepting such a form as the close-growing Veitchi. Another excellent large-leaved Ivy is R:eg- neriana. It is a good kind, climbs well, the leaves sometimes measuring fully 7 inches across and 5 inches wide, leathery, rich green, and glossy, 99 3 • o m 7 a I — I > Q o a CO Jan. 4, 1890.] THE GARDEN. our own alpine forms, and may be useful in forming a new strain of alpine Pinks. Tlie group which is illustrated by the coloured plate is a very useful and important one in the rock garden, their success or failure depending to a very large extent on the rockery itself. The Pinks, like most alpines from these high eleva- tions, are essentially moisture-loving plants, and during spring and summer moisture must be given in such a way as to interfere as little as possible with the tufty crowns. Moisture about the neck or a stagnant soil is almost certain death. Another essential to success is that the roots should be kept cool during the hot sum- mer months, and this can only be done by burying stones inclined at about 45°, so as to give the roots an opportunity to get out of the way of drought, Arc. The wireworm seems to be the deadliest enemy of this handsome group, and when an affected tuft is found, the only plan is to lift it, wash off all the soil, and replant again in a fresh mixture. In this way we have saved numerous tufts of D. alpiuus, which in the south seems the most liable to its ravages. Dwarf species not noticed in detail are D. tenuifolius, vaginatus, callizonus, petrreus, &c. The alpine Pink (D. alpinus), a coloured plate of which appeared in The Garden, Aug. 30, 1884 (p. 184), is a somewhat rare and very beautiful species, scarcely ever met with doing well under cultivation, unless in the north of England and Scotland. Oar summers in the south do not seem to suit it very well, and although we get a wealth of foliage and of a rich green hue, the plants always flower sparingly. Wireworms rather than unsuitable soil are blamed for this failure, but we have found that unsuitable soil weakens the plants and renders them subject to this pest. Oar plants in pure well-decayed leaf soil have always been healthiest and flowered the most freely. D. al- pinus seems to require plenty of moisture, and may be grown as near the ground level as possible, if water be not handy to give it periodical drencb- ings. The more exposed the position the sturdier and healthier will be the clumps, and the more chance of a good show of lovely large deep rose- crimson spotted flowers. It forms dense masses, and may be increased readily by division, although we prefer propagation by seeds, which it rarely fails to ripen. There are several forms of D. alpinus in cultivation at the present time, notably one called tener, amuch more useful plant in the south at any rate, as it never fails to yield abundance of flowers, which, though smaller and not so bright, are pro- duced in such profusion as to make it an acquisi- tion. The best of this class, however, was distri- buted as D. glacialis, and is probably a hybrid between the two. The plant is altogether dwarfer, the leaves narrower and not so blunt ; while the flowers, which are of a bright deep rose, are borne in rich profusion, and are nearly as large as those of D. alpinus. We have grown this form on the rockery for many years now, and although it has never failed to flower freely, we have never yet been able to obtain a single fertile seed. The pods appear plump enough, but when opened will be found to contain chaff only. It must not be confounded with the true Glacier Pink, of which, however, it is a near ally. The Chedhar Pink (D. osesius), though not strictly belonging to this group, is such a valuable rock plant and so easily managed, that an effort should be made to increase its popularity. Sunny, dry, and stony exposed places suit it admirably, and all the better if it can be planted in chinks of limestone rock, failing which, old mortar will do very well. It forms dense mats of short, very glaucous leaves, and produces in May and June in the greatest profusion its large rosy, fragrant flowers. The seeds will vegetate freely if sown on old mossy grown walls, over which fine soil may be scattered with advantage. It may be increased by division also, but seeds are produced in such abundance as to render this course unnecessary. D. GBLIDU3. — This charming little Pink we have had recently imported from the Transylvanian Alps, and it seems to be taking to its new quarters very well. It appears to be intermediate between the glacier and alpine Pinks, and is placed as a sub-species or distinct variety under D. alpinus in Nyman's "Conspectus Earopaius." It has much the same dwarf sturdy habit as D. glacialis and D. alpinus, the leaves thin, bright green, narrow, and acutely pointed, the large bearded (lowers being rich rosy purple, spotted white near the throat. We have not had it long enough to speak with confidence of its merits as a rock plant, but so far it promises well. The Glacier Pink (D. glacialis), which we have been able to obtain only from seeds im- ported direct from the mountains of Central Europe, is a handsome little species, and though the flowers are small compared with those of D. al- pinus, they make up for lack of size in profusion and in richness of colour. We have had plants im- ported, but have never succeeded in establishing them, although we have no diffioulty whatever with those raised from seed. It does better in crevices of the rookery as high up as may be possible, peaty or leafy soil well mixed with hard chips of granite or marble being all it requires. It forms compact little tufts of rather longish narrow-pointed leaves, which during the summer are thickly studded with charming rosy-tinted flowers, the petals serrated and slightly reflexed. Introduced about 1828. D. NECiLBCTUS, represented in the accompany- ing plate, is certainly one of the loveliest, the most easily managed, and, in our opinion, the best of all the dwarf alpine Pinks. As it grows with us on the rockery on open positions fully exposed to the east, it retains its dwarf sturdy habit, with which it combines the fine form and brilliant colour that always characterise it in its native liaunts. When brought into cultivation, it is not unusual with plants from these high alti- tudes to become so strong and luxuriant as to be hardly recognisable even by those well conversant with the South European flora. This robust cha- racter, which is most undesirable with our alpines, is due either to the want of suflioient light or exposure and too rich a soil. The present species of Pink, as usually seen in gardens, grows from 5 inches to 8 inches high, while from 1 inch to 3 inches is the highest it ever attains in its native habitat. It will stand any amount of ex- posure and cold, and we find it keeps much healthier, and produces its brilliant flowers in greater profusion in a rather poor sandy soil than in any other we have yet tried. It forms tufts re- sembling short wiry Grass, the leaves slightly glaucous, differing chiefly from those of the alpine Pink in their being shorter, narrower, and more pointed. The flowers are surpassed by those of no alpine known to us in their vividness and purity of colour, and when doing well it is a most striking feature on a rockery. The flowers, as may be seen from the plate, are almost as large as those of D, alpinus, of a deep, pure, and most brilliant rose colour, the margins of the petals slightly notched or serrated, which enhances its attractiveness. As may be already gleaned, it has a vigorous constitu- tion, with none of the fastidiousness characteristic of D. alpinus and D. glacialis ; indeed it may be classed amongst the easily grown, as it gives no trouble either in pots or on the open rockery. It is a native of the highest Alps of Dauphiny, the Pyrenees, Switzerland, &c., and may be readily increased by division or seeds, which ripen in bright summers. It is by some considered a variety of the Glacier Pink, but it is distinct enough to warrant its being considered a true species. D. K. nana, B. Fortunei, and the variety variegata, makes a veryefEective group. With groups of such grace- ful evergreen plants as these the rookery has a furnished and fresh appearance eyen in the depth of winter. Stove and Greenhouse. Bambusa Bagamowski.— This is a charming dwarf Bamboo which we find most useful for the rockery during the winter months. In appearance it is more like a dwarf B. Metake than anything else; the leaflets bright green and about an inch broaid. It is perfectly hardy, and along with B. CROTONS. Within the last few years there has been a revival in the love of these beautiful plants, but hardly to the extent they deserve. The great diversity of form, the rich and varied tints of variegation, are not to be found in any other family of plants. Beautiful as the variegation is in the spring, when the plants are making their growth, their attraction is considerably enhanced later on, when the paler shades begin to change to the more ruddy tints. All the varieties do not take on the red tints, but a suflicient number do so to form a nice contrast to those which retain the golden-yellow variegation. It requires some skill to bring Crotons to their highest state of perfection, and when badly man- aged there is little in them that is beautiful. Large specimens are very attractive, but the most beautiful plants are those of one season's growth with a single stem. Crotons are not difiicult sub- jects to propagate. In a close propagating pit with a brisk bottom-heat cuttings may be rooted at any season of the year. There is no better time for propagating them than during the winter when the plants are dormant, and there is then generally a better command of bottom-heat than in the warmer weather when less firing is necessary. The cuttings selected from the best coloured tops of the old plants, may be taken off 2 inches or 3 inches long and put in singly into small iiots, using light sandy soil. If the cuttings are taken off and put in with- out any delay, they will be better left for a short time without any water, but not long enough for them to get withered. With ordinary care almost every cutting will root and scarcely a leaf will be lost. As soon as the cuttings are well rooted they should be gradually exposed, and after a few days they may be removed from the pit and placed on a shelf near the glass in the warmest part of the stove. Unless a regular temperature can be main- tained, it is better not to encourage the plants to start into growth until a little later in the year. The plants may be potted on into larger pots about the middle of February. Rather light peaty soil is most favourable to the variegation. If rich loamy soil is used, the plants will grow too freely ami pro- duce too much green in the foliage. An important point in the development of colour is to keep the plants up to the glass and to avoid shading as much as possible. It will be only during the brightest days of summer that any shading will be necessary, and then only during the middle of the day. Of course, plants so much exposed to the sun require careful attention to watering, ^o., while red spider must be guarded against by frequently syringing the jjlants. Soot water may be used freely, both for watering and syringing, but for the latter purpose it should be quite clear. Where it is desirable to con- fine the plants to small pots, a little stronger stimu- lant may be used occasionally while the plants are making growth. The chief points towards success are to take the cuttings from well-developed tops while they are dormant, expose the plants to all the light and sun possible, avoid any check while the plants are making growth, and keep them free from all.kinds of insect pests. From the great number of sorts that are now catalogued it is diflicult to make a selection and confine the number within any limit, especially as there are hardly two persons who would be of the same opinion. Another point is that under different conditions the same varieties vary in character to a considerable extent. If I were confined to twelve sorts I should select the following : Countess, ruberrimum, Warreni, mu- saicum, Massangeanum, Gordoni, Etna, Comte de Germiny, nobile. Lady Zetland, caudatum tortile, and Weismanni. The selection is made from sorts 10 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 4, 1890. most suitable for ordinary decoration, where it is necessary to confine plants to, say, 5 inch pots. F. H. WHITE INDIAN DAPHNE. The beautiful D. indica alba, which is not seen half so murh as il deserves to be, is a well de- servod favourite with all who succeed witli it. In reality, its culture is siiiiplo if its likes and dislikes .ire properly attended to. It does better plaTited out tlian in pots, but in either case it must be kept cool at all times of the year, well shaded from tlie sun, and con- stantly syringed. Peat, loam, and coarse sea well-arranged propagating pit will very soon repay its cost. It can be kept in use throughout the year if necessary, but is most useful when there is a fair amount of heat in the pipes to keep in check any probable injury from excess of moisture. Our pit for this purpose is arranged at the warmest end of a lean-to stove where the pipes enter the house from the boiler. Bottom heat is provided for by means of a flow .nnd return 1 inch pipe underneath, over which is placed some old iron fencing, that lieing covered with slates to prevent the plunging material from being wasted. For the latter we use cocoa fibre refuse, which is one of the best mediums for promoting root-action under these conditions. The pit is divided into three compart- White Indian Dapliuo (D. injica alba). or other sand suit it, but I believe the chief secret of success is in perfectly cool treatment. I have a plant in my conservatory against one of the pillars, and now about 0 feet or 10 feet high, from which, without exaggeration, a hundred heads of bloom have been cut during a single winter season. The delicious, spicy fragrauce of the pure white blooms all through December, January, and February, besides that it is parti- cularly useful for bouquets and button-holes, make it highly valued, and at other times of the year the glossy dark green leaves form a good background for other things. C!. D. Propagating pits.— Wherever a good supply of plants has to ba maintained for decoration, a ments, each having its movable light. I have had one of the three raised a foot or so higher for striking larger cuttings singly in small pots. Such plants as Crotons, Ficus elastica, Dracsnas and Ara- lias strike quickly, each cutting being in itself quite large enough for decoration as soon as it is well rooted. Such a pit could be arranged in many a stove in accordance with the room at disposal. Two divisions at least should be arranged, so that the necessary treatment for given subjects can be varied. Lately I have added another pit, which is not, as a rule, covered at all, but it affords at all times an excellent spot for plunging young plants in the fibre after they have been removed from their closer quarters. I have found these pits to be most valuable, and would not be without them on any account. I do not by any means advise fer- menting material in place of hot-water pipes for bottom heat. It is not so steady, and, besides, there is a danger of scalding if kept too close. The quantity of plants turned out of our pits has been somewhat surprising, so also is the rapidity with which they establish themselves even in the winter months, when the j^its are always full. — J. H. Strobilanthes isophyllus. -This species of Strobilanthes, which was formerly included in the genus Goldfussia, is a pretty free-flowering subject, which blooms at this season of the year. It is a freely-branched, but somewhat upright growing plant with lanceolate leaves of a very deep green tint and lavender-mauve coloured flowers. They are borne in considerable numbers, and though they do not remain long on the plant, a succession is kept up for some time. Like many others of its class, this Strobilanthes needs an intermediate or warm greenhouse temperature to flower it properly at this season. The cuttings should be struck in the spring and grown on as cool as possible during the summer, as by this means the foliage is much better than when too much heat is used at that period. In the spring, after the required supply of cuttings has been secured, the old plants may be thrown away, as young ones are always more satis- factory.—H. P. Darlingtonia californica.— In The Garden (Dec. 21, 1.889, p. 560) there is a statement inadver- tently made that I had a specimen of this plant bearing a leaf pitcher :i feet '■> inches high ! There is such a plant at Mount Merrion Gardens, near Dublin, where it has been grown to its present state of vigour and luxuriance by Mr. Duncan Welsh, the well-known gardener at that fine old place. Mr. Welsh has had the plant in his possession about twelve years, having grown it to its present dimen- sions from a small plant presented to him by the late Dr. David Moore. It is at present growing in a pan 12 inches wide and about 7 inches deep, and has about forty pitchers or more all over 12 inches in length. Five of these pitchers are of enormous size, the tallest measuring 3 feet y inches high ; then come three others quite perfect and over 3 feet li inches in height, and another or two over 3 feet. The lower part of the plant at the base of the larger pitchers is occupied by a mass of smaller pitchers varying from a few inches to a foot in length. I do not know of any- thing approaching this specimen in Europe, and hope by the kind courtesy of my friend, Mr. Green- wood Pim, to send you a photograph of the same, — F. W. BURBIDGE. Pernettyas as pot plants. — You do well to call attention (Garden, Dec. 21, p. 56!i) to Pernet- tyas as pot plants. I have often wondered why gardeners and others responsible for the embellish- ment of cool conservatories, corridors, balconies, kc, were, as a rule, so slow in recognising the merits of these fine plants. Pernettyas do not usually produce fruit freely in this country, although enormous quantities of bushy plants covered with richly and variously coloured berries are annually imported into England from Ireland. These, if procured early in the autumn and put in suitable pots with a peaty compost, will prove valuable for decorations during the winter months. Great improvements in the habit of growth of these plants and colour of berries have been accomplished of late by various nurserymen who make a speciality of the Pernettyas. The varieties of Pemettya mucronata with white, cream, lilac, rose, crimson, and purple berries are the best for pot culture. — C. L. Propagating Bouvardias.- In my recent note on tnis subject I am made to say that " the method described by ' T. B.' is undoubtedly the most popular among market growers ; " whereas the reverse is the case. " T. B." recommended the old-fashioned plan of heading back plants that have bloomed after giving them a long rest in order to favour the production of young shoots. This, as may be seen, differs from the method mentioned by me, and which consists in taking the cuttings from plants propagated late in spring that do not reach blooming size by autumn, and that are kept Jan. 4, 1890. J THE GARDEN. 11 in a genial temperature through the winter. Such plants do not require to be cut back, but are grow- ing away at a time when the old headed-in speci- mens are but beginning to break again. The plants that furnish cuttings early are by May bushy specimens in 4i-inch pots" ready for shifting. Whether for cut bloom or for early sale as pot plants they have a good start on plants propa- gated in the usual way.— J. C. B. Orchids. GRAMMATOPHYLLUM ELLISI. I AM asked to say something about this species for the information of a reader who has recently had this plant sent him from abroad. The plant is a native of the island of IVIadagascar, having first been discovered and brought home in 1859 by the late Rev. Wm. Ellis, of Hod- desden, whose name it bears ; he, however, does not mention much about it in his book, but he said he had brought home a large-bulbed plant something like Anguloa Clowesiana. The plant, however, is not an Anguloa, as no Anguloas are to be found in that country, and one especial difl'erence from that genus independent of its blooms lies in its compre.ssed and sharply angled bulbs. For a long time this plant was exceedingly rare in this country, but more recently it has become tolerably plentiful through the large importations of the Messrs. Low and Co., of Clapton, where I have seen it iu quantity and growing splendidly. It differs entirely from the other species of the genus ; indeed. Professor Reichenbach has put the plant into a distinct genus, which he distinguishes by the name of Grammangis. It is a somewhat dwarf plant, making pseudo-bulbs, which vary from 6 inches to 12 inches in length, and bear upon the summit numerous leaves. The flower-spikes come up with the young growth, and they are freely produced when the plant is strong ; the spike is long and pendent, bearing a somewhat dense raceme of flowers ranging from ten to twenty or more in number. The flowers would appear to vary somewhat in colour ; the sepals have a ground colour of yellow, which is thickly covered with transverse dotted lines of reddish- brown. The petals are much smaller, the base yellow, the tips streaked with reddish- brown, lip small, the front lobe prof uselystreaked with purple. The flowers are produced durinw the late summer and autumn months, and they last a long time in perfection. The plant re- quires to be grown in the warmest temperature, and as Mr. Ellis says he found the plant grow- ing upon the branch of a tree overhanging a river, it may be inferred that it enjoys an abund- ance of atmospheric moisture. It grows well under cultivation in a hanging basket. It also does well under pot culture, but in my opinion the hanging basket is more congenial to its re- quirements. The plants should be well drained, and the soil used maybe good peat fibre and Sphagnum Moss. During the growing season the plants should be liberally supplied with moisture, and they may also be frequently syringed overhead. When at rest in the winter very little moisture will be needed, but, judg- ing from its natural habitat, it should by no means be allowed to suffer from over-dryness. This is a plant well deserving every care and attention, for not only is it peculiar to Mada- gascar, but it commemorates one that devoted his spare time to the cultivation of this class of plants. W. H. Gower. Lyeaste Skinneri alba. — Few white flowers arc more effective than this, and a very nice form is now flowering iu the gardens of Mr. Jacomb, Cheam Park, the flowers being large and the segments broad. It is a good thing to find this beautiful variety becoming more common, as it should be everyone's favourite. It is as easily grown as the typical plant. Dendrobium Jamesianum. — This was re- cently flowering unusually well in Mr. Jacomb's gar- Jen at Cheam Park. The plant was strong and the flowers large and numerous. It lasts in bloom a long time, and the clear white of its flowers, set oft' by the cinn.abar-red of the lip, renders it welcome, particu- larly at this eeason. Catasetum Bungerothi. — This plant is now finely in flower in Mr. Larkins' garden in Highbury New Park, and Mr. Rann, who has charge of the col- lection, tells me that this is the fifth spike of bloom the specimen has borne in twelve months. This should satisfy everyone of the freedom of flowering of the species, the large ivory-white flowers being a very great attraction. This Catasetum and the majority of the Orchids are growing remarkably well, and the London air does not seem to affect them. Phalagnopsids at Cheam Park. — These plants are thriving well in this establishment. Amongst the kinds now flowering are P. amabilis, some excellent varieties ; P. grandiflora, P. Schilleriana, P. Stuartiana, and P. gloriosa. Of this last species, which is one of the novelties of Messrs. Low & Co , of Clapton, a coloiu-ed plate was given in The Gabdex, April 20, 1889. Mr. May, who has charge of the collection, finds that they thrive with less heat than is usually given to them. Odontog^Iossum nebulosum pardinum. — An excellent variety of this plant was recently flowering with Mr. White, of Winchmore Hill, the flowers being large, white, and heavily spotted with reddish brown. 0. nebulosum is a species which usually appears to me amongst the least desirable kinds of this large genus, but such a variety is a superb gem and well deserves every attention. The species does not appear to have developed many varietal forms, although it is considerably over fifty years ago since it was first discovered, its usual flowering season being the end of spring and the beginning of summer. — W. ■White liSslia anceps.— A very good form of this plant was recently flowering in Mr. Horsman's collection at Colchester, the sepals and petals being pure white, as also the lip, saving the inside of the side lobes, which were yellow striped with crimson, the disc being deep yellow. It was a form very much like Williamsi, which was imported by Mr. Sander some time ago, and named by him in compliment to Mr. B. S. Williams, of Upper HoUoway, but the flower so named we have usually seen larger. There are more, however, to open from this importation, and some of the larger plants may prove it to be this fine form. Oncidium splendidum. — In several collec- tions round London I have found this plant either in flower or about to bloom, thus proving it to be a thoroughly useful winter-blooming species. The imported plants also keep up a continual and free display, which is more than can be said of the original form of the species. Naturally this is said to grow upon the ground, sending up its flower-spikes amongst the Grass and other herbage, but when at rest the herbage is all dried up. It thrives best under cultivation in hanging baskets well drained. It comes from Mexico. — W. H. G. Odontoglossum Jacombianum. — This beau- tiful plant, which received a certificate some three years ago when exhibited by Mr. Jacomb, is now flowering in his garden at Cheam Park. It has a branched spike bearing some 36 flowers, which measure each about SJ inches across. The sepals are much undulated, white, suffused with rosy- purple, heavily blotched and spotted with chest- nut ; the petals slightly smaller, with a purer white ground, spotted with chestnut, and with longitudi- nal lines of the same colour at the base ; lip ob- long, cuspidate, destitute of the shoulders so con- spicuous in O. crispum, and quite resembling 0. Ruckerianum, to which, indeed, the plant appears very nearly allied, but certainly finer than anything we have ever seen in this way. It is white, slightly stained with yellow at the base, with a semi-mar- ginal row of chestnut-brown dots, and a large spot or blotch of bright chestnut-brown iu the centre. In growth the plant resembles O. crispum. Odontoglossum blandum.— I have received from three different sources flowers of this species, and I am pleased to find this plant becoming so well distributed. It is a charming species, and should be included in every collection of cool Or- chids. In answer to Mr. O'Donoghue, I may say it is now twenty years ago since it first flowered in this country, but it is upwards of twenty-five years since it was first found by Blunt, when plant collector for the Messrs. Low & Co., of Clapton. In 1870 the late Professor Reichenbach lamented over the immense quantity of plants which arrived in this country in a poor condition. The flowers are very uniform in colom-, the sepals and petals being about equal, white, more or less dotted and spotted with reddish-purple, the lip being of the same colour as the petals, with the addition of a little yellow at the base.— W. H. G. THE WEEK'S WORK. KITCHEN GARDEX. Pbbmatubb Sebd-sowino. Should the weather be at all mild and the ground in fairly good working order during January, many will be tempted to carry out in- structions contained in the particular calendar or oracle they may consult or be guided by, among these being the sowing of various seeds. As far as the open grotmd is concerned, nothing will be gained and much may be lost by sowing seeds thus early. It is worse than useless to bury seeds in the cold ground, only to lie dormant or perhaps to decay during February and it may be the early part of March. All seeds require a certain amount of heat to cause them to germinate, and even it this were forthcoming in January, the alternate frosts, thaws, and cold drying winds usually ex- perienced in February and even later effectually check the growth of the poor seedlings. Both the tops and roots of nearly every kind of vegetable raised have their enemies, and the sooner there- fore they attain vigour the better. This season the seeds generally, and notably Peas, are apparently well ripened, in fact I never saw better samples, and as a consequence there will, or ought to be, fewer complaints of non-germination. We never sow seed of any kind of vegetable in the open daring January and but few in February, and in spite of a cool subsoil, our crops are generally as forward as any in this district. I hold it to be quite early enough to sow Peas, Broad Beans, and Spinach during the first or second week in February, and that the early part of March is quite soon enough to sow a pinch of seeds of early Carrots, Radishes, Parsley, Lettuce, or anything else needed rather early by those who are unable to grow or raise any under glass. As a matter of fact, there is a tendency throughout to sow seeds of the various crops too early or at a fixed date, and without paying due regard to the state of the ground and other local circumstances. On no account should seeds be puddled in, nor will they germinate properly if sown on rough, lumpy ground. In any case, some kind of shelter must be accorded delicate seedlings when these are raised extra early, or they wiU be eventually overtaken and surpassed by those obtained from much later sow- ings. Nor is it wise to raise plants under glass long before they can be either given more room or turned out into the open. For instance, it Lettuce, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflowers, Celery, and Toma- toes are sown in pans or pots and placed in heat, the seed will germinate quickly, and the plants most probably soon touch each other all round. Now, unless after being slightly hardened off by being placed on a shelf near the glass in a some- what cooler house, all will in the course of a few days become drawn and weakly, and rather than attempt recovering these in pans and boxes, I would much prefer to raise a fresh lot, taking care that these shall not be long in advance of the 12 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 4, 1890. facilities for properly growing them to a service- able size. Preparing fob Seed-sowing. Where the soil is naturally light and free-work- ing, the conditions are most favourable to an even germination of seeds whatever the ultimate result may be, and, added to this, there are usually fewer insect pssts, notably slugs, abounding. I am in hopes the heavier soils will break down more freely than usual this spring, especially where they have not been interfered with when in a wet state, but, whether they can be got into a fairly finely-divided condition or not, it is advisable to have a good heap of fine light soil in readiness for any emergency. If the surface soil of old Melon, Cucumber, and Tomato beds has been saved together with old potting soil and other accumula- tions of inferior leaf-soil, rotten tan, common sand, and perhaps the contents of a smother or slow fire, as well as an old Vegetable Marrow bed, a fine heap of compostmaybe formed. All should be run through a moderately coarse sieve or screen, then tho- roughly well mixed together and kept in one large conical heap. This will be found very suitable for placing in frames and pits intended for forcing Carrots, Radishes and Potatoes, and also for raising early Celery and other plants, though enough should be saved for the open garden. If necestary, some of this light compost ought to be distributed freely in the drills prior to sowing seeds, and a covering of the same given. Thus treated, not a sound seed sown at anything like the proper time ought to fail, and all must admit that a good even start or " plant " is a decided gain, which more than compensates for the extra trouble taken in sowing and covering the seeds. W. I. PLANT HOUSES. Stove.— Crotons. — Where fine-leaved stove plants are grown to a larger size than the ordinary small stock that is used for grouping, it is necessary with a good many kinds to cut back the shoots, more or less, once a year. The best time for this is about the beginning of the year, as then all the succeeding growth that is made goes to refurnish the plants. Crotons especially require to be treated in this way. With them the knife may be freely used. Previous to cutting in allow the soil to get a little drier than it would be safe to let it get during the active season of growth. Where much hall and room decoration is done, Crotons are the most important of the variegated subjects, parti- cularly the long, narrow-leaved varieties. Their graceful drooping habit and bright tints answer the double purpose of giving colour to the green plants associated with them, such as Palms and Ferns, and to some extent take the place of flower- ing subjects. When used in this way the plants look best confined to a single shoot, or with only a few small side branches near the bottom. To have Buflicient stock in this condition it is necessary to propagate every year. The branches cut away will afford the requisite material for this, and it is better to get all that are needed struck thus early than to put off the work until spring. By this means there will be so much longer time before autumn in which the plants can reach a size that will make them of use for table decoration. The leading shoots make the best plants, and choose only those that have the leaves well coloured. It used to be supposed that anything in the shape of manure water, or stimulants applied in the forjii of surface dressings of concentrated manure would tend to the production of gross foliage ; whereas the reverse is the case, so that if manure water is used freely during the spring and summer it gives the desired colour. This will be found more effec- tual than any addition of solid manure incorporated with the soil at the time of potting. Loam usually tends to the production of hrighter coloured leaves than peat, and, where large specimens are required, the plants can be kept in a vigorous state in smaller pots than would answer without assistance in this manner. But the liquid should not be given until later on when the growth has begun to move freely. If the plants have been at all ali'ected with any insects, such as mealy bug or thrips, ad- vantage shonld be taken to dip in or syringe them freely with insecticide. When the softest shoots are removed it can be used stronger than the leaves would bear when young and immature. Drac^nas. — As the plants attain size they begin to lose their bottom leaves. The only remedy for this is to head them down. The stools if pro- perly treated will make new heads in less time than it takes to grow up stock from the ordinary newly-struck plants. To have the stove section of Dracaenas in good condition, it is necessary to give them more warmth than will suffice for many stove species. Where there is the requisite amount of heat at command it is well to head down any plants that have got shabby ; by doing this at the present time both the stools and the tops when struck will have a long start over those that are left until spring. Let the soil get somewhat dry before re- moving the heads, and cut back to within 4 inches of the collar. Stand the stools where they will have a warm stove temperature, and do not give much water until the eyes have broken, except by syring- ing moderately once a day. When the plants are well treated several eyes will push. These should be reduced to one, as they look best when confined to single stems. After a little growth has been made, turn the plants out of the pots and shake away most of the old soil and replace it with new. Afterwards grow them on in a warm, moderately humid atmosphere. Raise the plants so that they will be well up to the glass, as the more light they get the more colour the leaves will have. The tops, consisting of about four leaves, will make plants in much less time than such as are raised from cut- tings made from the hard portions of the stem, but where stock is wanted the stems if cut into pieces about 2 inches long will root and make nice plants. If a bottom-heat of 80° can be given them they will strike quicker. To get the young plants to move freely they should have a warm stove tem- perature through the spring and summer. DiEFi'ENHAcniAS. — These plants are the most useful when of medium size and confined to a single stem. To have them well furnished with healthy foliage down to the bottom it is necessary to propa- gate every year, as the leaves do not keep in good con - dition so long as those of things which are harder in texture. After allowing the soil to get fairly dry re- move the tops at about three joints from the bottom. The stools will break and grow away freely where the necessary amount of heat is present. The tops with about three leaves attached will soon strike if treated in the way advised for Dracaenas, and will attain enough size in a few months to be useful for grouping on the side stages of the stove amongst larger things. In summer they will bear the tem- perature of a living room for a few weeks, but under such conditions they suffer more quickly than plants with harder leaves. Pieces of the stumps composed of two or three joints root readily in sand, but during the time they are striking, less water must be given than in the case of plants that are not so succulent. AcALYPHAS. — These quick-growing subjects are very effective when used in a small state for table and room decoration ; their highly coloured leaves come true to character whilst the plants are quite small and in :i-inch or 4-inoh pots. They are so easily propagated and take so little time to get of sufiicient size, that it is best when they are used in the ways named and have got shabby to discard them. To keep up the requisite amount of stock they should be propagated in sufficient numbers to meet the demand. Cuttings put in now will be large enough for use by the end of spring. The extremities of the shoots make plants the quickest, but the lower portions that have not got too hard and woody will root by allowing them a little more time. They are best struck singly in small pots. The kinds that are in cultivation come from the South Sea Islands and New Caledonia, and conse- quently require a good deal of heat. Stove climbers. — Climbing plants, such as the different kinds of Cissus, that are useful for cover- ing walls and draping pillars should now be cut in so as to get rid of as much of the old foliage as possible. Without sufficient pruning the shoots get into a tangled mass that outgrows the space to be occupied. Where these plants are employed for covering hanging baskets, it is generally best to use fresh ones each year when the baskets are re- filled. The present is a good time to propagate all that will be required. Quick-growing things of this kind soon attain sufficient size to be effective. If kept in a warm stove temperature until spring, they will then be ready for putting wherever they are wanted. They succeed best with rich soil, and will do in either loam or peat, but whatever is used they should have a liberal amount of rotten manure and some leaf-mould mixed with it. IxoRAS. — Most of the varieties of Ixora that have originated from seed soon show a disposition to produce small heads of flower, unless the knife is used freely so as to get lid of much of the old wood. This requires to be done annually. If the work is now carried out it will be better than if left until later, as when deferred till spring it naturally interferes with the time of flowering. In the case of large specimens the tops may be re- moved to the extent of from one-fourth to a third, and afterwards give as much heat as circumstances permit. To grow Ixoras well and to make the most of the plants, they require as high a tempera- ture as anything in cultivation. For though they may be kept in a fairly healthy state when they only have a medium stove temperature, so managed the plants never have the vigour nor produce the quantity of bloom that they give when in enough heat to keep the growth moving during winter. To do justice to them a night temperature of H5° should be maintained through the winter ; 5° more may with advantage be used where it can be done without its being too much for the other things that have to be kept in the same house. After cutting in syringe once a day, but do not use the water-pot too much until the young growth is moving freely. BiLLBERGiAS. — Where these distinct-looking and somewhat neglected plants are properly treated they will be at rest, and should have the soil kept somewhat drier than they require it to be during the time they are growing. Like other things that are more or less of an epiphytal nature, their roots are impatient of too much moisture when not in an active state. The time of flower- ing varies in the different kinds, and it is like- wise influenced by the temperature the plants are kept in through the season their growth is being made, and also in winter. As soon as the flower- stems are seen to be moving the roots may have more moisture. TiLLANDSi.\s. — These are very similar in their requirements through the winter season to the r.illbergias. They should only have as much water during the time of rest as will keep the soil moderately moist. If too wet the roots are liable to perish. The same applies to ^^ohmeas and Nidulariums, both of which, in common with Bill- bergias and Tillandsias, should have less pot-room than the majority of stove subjects. Most of them are spare rooters. The texture of the roots is hard and wiry, and calculated to give an idea that they would be little likely to suffer from a slight excess of moisture ; yet such in practice I have found to be the case. On the other hand, the soil must not be allowed to get too dry. T. B. FRUIT HOUSES. Cucumbers.— Plants which have been giving a full supply of fruit throughoutthe autumn and early win- ter will now show signs of failing vigour, particularly if they have been too heavily cropped, and condi- tions are not in every respect favourable to the maintenance of the proper degree of heat. Should this be the case, and younger plants in other com- partments have been kept back, a few of the most promising fruits may be allowed to swell to matur- ity, and so soon as these are equal to the demand the old ones may be cleared out as a preliminary to a fresh start. A few seeds of Telegraph at the same time should be sown, singly or in pairs, in very small pots filled with light, rich, fibry soil, and plunged in a bottom heat of 80" quite close to the Jan. 4, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 13 glass. If top heat and atmospheric moisture are equally satisfactory, a fair percentage of seedlings will make good plants by the time they are wanted. Meantime the cleansing and preparation of the pit for their reception must be most carefully and effi- ciently performed, as this plant, with which I am acquainted so thoroughly, enjoys a soft, pure at- mosphere, steady top and bottom heat, and an abun- dance of light. In the most approved pits the plants may be turned out upon very narrow cones or sharp ridges of compost, but the best plan at this dead season is confinement to 12 -inch pots plunged to their rims in a good bed of sound fermenting leaves. These, I may say, should be thoroughly fermented and worked in the reserve ground, and when the vio- lent heat has passed away they must be introduced and made as firm as a board. A depth of 3 feet is none too great, and the better to prevent sinking each pot should be supported on a few dry bricks placed in position before the leaves are introduced. The latter can then be turned and renovated at pleasure, and presenting such a moist, genial sur- face, the warm vapour constantly rising will coun- teract the drying influence of fire heat. When the plants have formed the first small, rough leaf, they may be turned out singly into the fruiting size, which need not be more than two-thirdsfnl of compost, as the stems will stand earthing up. Many people place their winter plants quite close to the top-heat pipes, but this is a most damaging mistake, as dry heat and scalding steam, the result of careless syringing, soon destroy the stem leaves. In some cases close proximity cannot be avoided, but injury to a certain extent may be prevented by facing the hot-water pipes with two or three thicknesses of coarse canvas or very thin boards. Fruitini/ jilanfa now in or coming into full bear- ing must be most carefully managed, as they will give the supply until the seedlings I have men- tioned come in to take their place. The principal points here are scrupulous cleanliness of the struc- ture throughout, including the frequent washing of the glass, a steady bottom-heat of 80" from ferment- ing materials, frequent top-dressing with very thin layers of light rich compost, and the preservation of all the stem leaves. If thinly planted and space admits, much risk will be avoided by extension training and allowing an abundance of room for the young growths and leaves, which must be kept quite clear of the glass. Direct syringing having been discontinued, atmospheric moisture must be supplied by damping the walls and paths with pure warm water, the surface of the bed with diluted liquid or soot water, and keeping the evaporating pans regularly charged. Light cropping and cut- ting young being so very important, no one, I pre- sume, need be told to husband the strength of the plants until after the turn of the year, and then, aided by copious supplies of clear tepid liquid, they will go through that most critical period when fruit is of the greatest value to the gn^ower for market or private use. Insects, as a matter of course, wiU put in an appearance, but the vitality of the plants being weak, no quarter mast be allowed for a single day. The worst of these pests is red spider, the next are thrips and aphis, which may be kept in check by repeated fumigation with good tobacco paper when the plants are dry and the temperature rather low. Spider, on the other hand, must be met by moisture applied direct to the leaves, but, winter syringing being dangerous, the only safe remedy or preventive is careful syringing with soapy water before it has time to spread. Prevention, however, being better than cure, the plants should be kept in a high state of cultivation and the roof-lights, if possible, should be well covered throughout the night. Peaches. The weather so far having been highly favourable for early forcing, progress down to the present time has been satisfactory, and that without the aid of sharp firing, especially where the fermenting ma- terial, a most important factor, has not been neg- lected. Indeed, so readily does the Peach respond to the most gentle forcing, that established trees which have been regularly started in November not uufrequently commence swelling their buds past the critical stage before the hot-water valves are opened. Another great advantage is ripe wood which has had a thorough rest, as has been the case this year through September and October, for certainly some seasons have passed since well- managed trees have been found in better condition. Assuming, then, that a profusion of flower-buds are swelling fast, another supply of water at a tempera- ture of 80° should be given, not only to help them forward, but also to dispel all doubts as to the roots requiring further attention during the time the latest trees are in flower. When the colour of the petals is perceptible, and yet there is no sign of dropping, the attendant may rest satisfied that the roots are at work, that the most critical stage has been tided over, and the vigour of the trees will justify a minimum temperature of 50", with a corresponding rise by day, when, as a matter of course, the weather is bright and favourable. No fixed figures, however, must be insisted upon, as it is much better to proceed very slowly than attempt undue haste until days become lighter and longer. By giving and taking in this way, weak trees often unfold a vigorous blossom, and having had an abundance of fresh air, the fruit invariably sets and stones well, when time apparently lost may be re- deemed at the finish. From this stage forward the trees must be regularly, but not too heavily syringed with tepid water, and the floors may be kept moist, but by no means sloppy, as an excess of cold con- densed vapour is unfavourable to the ripening of the pollen and the setting of the fruit. The tem- perature during the flowering stage may be in- creased by a little additional fire-heat through the day, when more air, minus a cutting draught, must be given, fresh air being the element which pre- vents mischief when flowering trees against open sunny walls are often subjected to a temperature which would prove fatal in a badly-ventilated forc- ing house. If not already fumigated, the house should be smoked twice at least within the week preceding the opening of the first flower, for force we never so carefully, the prospect is sadly handi- capped by the presence of a single pair of aphides when the blossoms are expanding. The second house. — Where several houses are forced to succeed each other, this should be quite ready for closing at Christmas, when the lines laid down for the management of the earliest will apply. But once the buds commence swelling strongly and freely and January sun begins to tell, a higher temperature, always with a proportionate volume of fresh air, may be indulged in if only for a couple of hours during the brightest part of the day. Quite recently in a set of Peach cases in a northern county I noticed the trees in a very forward state indeed. The Chrysanthemums, I must admit, were extremely fine, but I question if the crops of fruit will not be thin and poor, another convincing proof that Peach growers who value their reputation should make a bold stand for suitable accommoda- tion, for of all specialties, this flower especially re- joices in a certain temperature at a time when the wind should be whistling through the Peach cases. When the pets are gone, the houses are thrown open, but the rest comes too late, for the buds are on the move, the germs of the flowers are tender, severe weather most likely sets in, and the delicate organs perish. Another drawback to the trees is a deluge of the richest stimulating liquid con- tantly passing downwards into certain parts of the borders, whilst other sections near the front are allowed to become much too dry. A Peach tree, planted in a well drained border, rarely suffers from an excess of water during the season of growth, neither is it improved by being kept dry in winter. But winter is not the season for feed- ing ; therefore, whilst keeping the borders tho- roughly moist, plain water only should be used from the time the leaves fall until the next crop of fruit commences swelling. I do not wish to disparage the growers of popular flowers, but knowing that a great number of gardeners are obliged to attempt miracles, I think it is only fair to inform their employers that a moist, warm atmosphere through October and November is detrimental to the trees in late Peach houses. HARDY FRUITS. At last we have reached the dead time most un- favourable to planting, no matter how genial the weather, but opportune for taking stock and making notes for the coming year. One operation and that a most important one, the mild and generally open season may have induced the busy fruit grower to allow to fall into arrear. I allude to the advantage that may be taken of frosty mornings for getting out manure and mulching the autumn planted trees which as yet have taken no harm. Weak or over- cropped trees, too, which have not been disturbed at the same time may come in for a share, not that the roots at the present moment are in a feeding condition, but looking ahead it will be seen that the stimulating properties of the mulch will gradu- ally improve the condition of hungry soils. The same use may be made of liquid manure with which many a good tank at this season overflows. If storage is ample, why then it may be husbanded until the trees are in full growth, but far preferable to allowing waste is casting it amongst bush fruits and Raspberries, or over compost heaps intended for top-dressing in the spring. Wall fruit borders as a rule are not improved by the application of manure or liquid during the winter, as these dressings render the surface soil sour and force a gross growth in the spring. One tree, nevertheless, will stand and generously repay this attention, and that is the Pear on the Quince, especially when planted against dry south and west walls. Being surface feeders and compact growers, the roots of Quince Pears do not often get beyond the wall paths, which so often suffer from drought ; therefore their descent should be prevented by forking off the old mulching and replacing it with new. I'riaiiny, naUhuj, and Irainiiig, also cleansing must now be pushed forward with all possible speed care being taken that the walls as well as the trees are made quite free from the larvse of the insects, which destroy such a large percentage of our choice fruit in the spring. If anyone doubt this, let him inquire how it is that the early-flowering and tender Peach is now so successfully managed on open walls, and he will be told that the walls as well as the trees receive more careful attention than any other wall or fruit, that success is not the out- come of one vigorous dash, followed by apathy and rest, but that it is won by increasing attention to the smallest details throughout the year. When Plums, Pears and Apples are as carefully cleansed, trained, and thinned, and as regularly root-lifted as Peaches, there will be an end to gluts, followed by failures, as no one will overcrop ; but so long as this over- taxing goes on one season will be noted for a large quantity of fruit of inferior quality, the next by failure, as the trees must and will have rest. How frequently we hear people say, " Oh! that tree fruits every alternate year." But why is this hit-and-miss system allowed to go on, when timely and liberal thinning, the elements being favourable, would se- cure fair crops of fine fruits every year ? Let those who have hit-and-miss trees first of all look to the spurs, and finding them capable of producing thou- sands of weak blossoms, they may safely introduce the knife until the weak elongated spurs are regu- larly reduced by one-half. The strong flower-buds ripened under the influence of solar heat and light will then set and swell off fine fruit, but so long as they remain puny and crowded, the fruit on each spur may be thinned down to one, but it will not be fine. Trees, in some cases, as I have often stated, may be divested of all their old spurs down to the single bud found nestling near the base, but this sharp practice means the loss of a crop the follow- ing year. Where trees are plentiful this apparent sacrifice upon one or two may not be felt, but otherwise very unsatisfactory trees may be restored to respectability by a methodical system of cutting away one-third of the worst spurs for three years in succession. When old trees have been spur- pruned they should be thoroughly cleansed by scrubbing with strong soap water or Gishurst com- pound, whilst Pears infested with scale may be painted with a mixture of stiff clay, Gishurst. and to- bacco water, to which a small quantity of paraffin may 14 THE GARDEN. [Jan. i, 1890. be added in the proportion of half -a-pint to a gallon. The same paint may be applied to Apples subject to American blight, whilst those fortunate in being free from insects may render their trees bright and clear of Moss and Lichen by syringing with soap- suds and dusting with quicklime. W. C. Fruit Garden. WORK IN FRUIT HOUSES UNDER DIFFICULTIES. With the opening days of another season the fruit grower will be busily engaged in prelimi- nary operations in the numerous departments which must be kept going not only simulta- neously, but not unfrequently under great difficulties. Those who must have ripe Straw- berries in March, Grapes and Peaches in April and May, Pines, Fig.s, and Melons about the same time, have a formidable opponent in the weather alone ; but when the convenience is altogether inadequate to their requirements, great credit is due to those who come out fairly successful, and tlie hand of sympathy and en- couragement should be held out to those willing workers who through no fault of their own have failed. Gardeners in not a few places are obliged to attempt the happy family system of culture, not only of plants, but also of fruits, and sometimes they get into hot water by vol- untary attempts at impossibilities as measured by the high quality of the produce of the pre- sent day. Many years ago, when timber and glass were dear. Pines were grown beneath Vines, with the natural result that the crowns of the first could be measured by the yard and the berries of the second were coated with lime in lieu of bloom. Such Pines and such Grapes in the year of grace 1890 would hardly pass muster, and yet quite recently we have been edified by articles upon the subject by cor- respondents who ought to be better employed. Within the past few months the editor of Tnt Garden has sent forth pertinent queries, and correspondents in all parts of the country have enabled him to publish much valuable in- formation on varieties, good culture, and the mismanagement of the Peach. From nearly all the replies we gather the fact tliat sun- light and fresh air are elements which must not be ignored. What, then, would these dual growers of Pines and Vines say were their employers to insist upon having a fixed trellis for Peaches some 2 feet below a set of vigorous Vines ? In a garden now noted for the supe- rior quality of its exhibition fruit I once saw a large house planted in this way, and arrived at the conclusion that the Vines, the Peaches, and the owner were subjects for pity. Pot Strawberries in houses with Peaches and Vines are met with in one half the forcing gardens throughout the kingdom; but no gardener approves of a system which entails no end of trouble, and not unfrequently, by the introduction of red spider and mildew, ruins his Peaches and Grapes. This mode of culture, no doubt, will be continued ; but being unsatisfactory to the grower and un- profitable to the owner, it is only right that the latter should be made acquainted with unpleasant facts. Hothouse building materials, boUers and pipes, now are cheap enough. British skill unfettered beats all opponents, In- cluding a changeable, trying climate ; let each good man then have a suitable place for every- thing, and it will be his own fault if he does not keep everything in its place. Another drawback to success is the ridiculously conserva- tive way in which some owners and agents guard every bit of turf and loam, presumably ignoring the fact that bricks cannot be made without straw. A great number of estates con- tain all the earthy elements essential to the best results, but, notwithstanding the assertion on the part of the anxious gardener that he can take all he requires and make the patch he skins the best part of the field or park in three months, it rarely happens that he succeeds in securing for his own credit and his employer's pride and profit that coveted supply of light and heavy loam. Some are afraid or too proud to make repeated applications ; others are daring and get a moiety of the supply they require by stealth ; but how much better for all concerned were these persons to put forth their reasoning power and show by argument how the business may be done. Assuming, then, that an old sheep pasture or field which produces good herbage and fine timber is given over to the grower, that his kitchen garden is teeming with rich black soil full of manure, let him hurdle ofl' the coveted patch and replace each load of turf with a load of his garden soil. Early in Blarch is not a bad time for laying in a stock of turf. April is the month for sowing Grass seeds. March then let it be, as the eyesore will quickl}' disappear and become a sheet of vivid green. The soil, it is hardly necessary for me to say, should be made quite level and firm by treading or rolling ; the seeds should be of the best, including a little white Clover, not rubbish from the farm hayloft, and in three weeks, the weather being favourable, it wiU be quite green, when the hurdles may be removed. If anyone doubt this theory, let him put it into practice on a small scale in any out-of-the-way part of his park, and he will soon find that the best of all judges, his sheep and deer, will graze and layer upon this in preference to any other part of the field. W. Coleman. Apple Lord Suffield. — Here on our cold, heavy, retentive soil this Apple is tender, and very liable to canker it not planted nearly on the sur- face, using some light material for the roots to stand in and mulching afterwards with stable manure. By treating the roots in this manner we manage to get decent crops of fairly good fruit. Although our trees are of bush form, we do not prune them so closely as some people, as we find an extension of growth suits this kind best. At Wool- ton, which is really a suburb of Liverpool, where the soil is light, resting on red sandstone, this Apple produces extraordinary crops upon dwarf bushes. The trees grow freely, are closely pruned, and give excellent results both in point of quantity and quality. In the neighbourhood of South- ampton also, where the soil is inclined to be sandy, this Apple produces capital crops. — E. M. Bullfinches and fruit-buds. — Bullfinches were plentiful last winter, and they are still more numerous this season. Already they have com- menced their work of destruction among fruit- buds, beginning with Gooseberries. Plums may next receive their misguided attention, then Pears, and finally the Apples will be visited. If a close watch is not kept and timely precautions taken the prospect of a good fruit crop may be marred before the owner of a garden is aware of the mis chief perpetrated — so rapidly and quietly, yet boldly, do they work. The birds should be either trapped or shot, and as soon as possible. These are the simplest and best remedies, especially where there are many fruit trees under the charge of the gardener. Where only a limited number of trees and bushes are cultivated, destruc- tive birds, notably house sparrows, may be kept off if the trees are well coated with soot and lime, this either being dusted over them when in a moist state or applied sufficiently often to coat the branches in the form of a thin wash with the aid of a syringe. Even this is not always effective against bullfinches, nor are these bold birds to be much scared by any other contrivance. The report of a gun does not frighten them. — I. LATEEING AND PLANTING STRAWBERRIES. I SHOULD be sorry to layer any number of Straw- berry runners on pieces of turf placed on the sur- face of the ground. This work is done when the weather is likely to be hot and dry, and I do not see how it would be possible to keep the turves sufficiently moist to allow of the proper formation of roots in them. At the same time, there can be no objection to the employment of turves it the pieces are sunk into the soil or even slightly below it so as to form a little basin that would allow of the water going where needed. The object in using turf would naturally be to facilitate the transplanting, the runners filling it with fibrous roots, thus forming a ball, so that the young plants would not be so likely to flag when removed. It is, therefore, not the turf itself, but the way in which it has been recommended to use it that can reasonably be objected to. I must admit, however, that I should prefer pots for the purpose, as they offer the best facilities for ensuring the runners against sustaining a check in removal. The only objection to pots is that the roots curl round the sides and do not then so quickly push into the ground. Otherwise it is more easy to deal with them, as when taken off they can be stood in a shady place for a week until they have well recovered from the check. Then when planted they are not liable to flag. If the final runners are put out as soon as possible in good ground, they may be relied on to bear a fair crop the fol- lowing season. But I am inclined to think that the advantages derivable from this method of making new Strawberry plantations are not suffi- ciently great to warrant the labour that is neces- sarily incurred. In a moist summer the labour is not great, but in a dry one, unless a considerable amount of watering is done, the plants will not come to any great size that year. I much prefer to plant either in autumn or in early spring, for it stands to reason that runners put out at that time have a great start over those planted in August. I do not approve of planting after the middle of October, as the runners cannot well get good hold of the ground by winter, and are, therefore, liable to be loosened by frost. In my opinion there is no better time than from the middle to the latter end of September, and I have invariably found that better results are obtained by planting at that time than at any other, the labour, moveover, being reduced to the lowest point. My plan is to leave a certain number of plants expressly for runners. I annually require some thousands of them, and I find that the production of fruit and the formation of good runners do not go well together. It is a great mistake to rely on runners from plants that have borne a crop of fruit. Even if runners came, they are seldom so freely produced as one would like them, and they are liable to be infested with red spider and mildew. I pick all the bloom off the plants from which I require runners and then I know I shall have them strong and clean. These can be taken up either in autumn or in spring with a ball, and are established in a month from planting. Such runners may be put out as late as April with every prospect of success. I have planted thousands in that month and not two per cent, have failed. If the first runners are planted in this way, grand specimens, capable of bearing more than a pound of fruit each, will be formed, but even the latest ones will make good fruiting plants. There is nothing to do to them but to pick off the bloom and keep them free from weeds and runners, with the exception of a few that may be left for the following season's plant- ing. In this way, and by planting every year, a good lot of plants will always be coming on, and there will be no dearth of good fruit. When the runners are not to be planted until spring, they need not be disturbed till then, as nothing is to be gained by taking them up and bedding them out for the winter. If such a system as this is followed much of the labour and expense of Strawberry Jan. 4, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 15 culture will be avoided ; indeed market growers could not adopt the method often practised in private gardens. J' C. B. ESPALIER TREES. I QUITE agree with the remarks (p. 585) made by Mr. Allan respecting espalier trees, which mode of training, I am convinced, is the very best for Pears, as grown in that way the fruit is of far better quality than it is in any other, for it hangs clear of the foliage, and is therefore fully exposed to the influence of sun and light, which agents not only give colour, but convert the crude juices into lus- cious sweetness and make the flesh fine and melt- ing when the Pears are ripe and fit to come on the table. On walls the fruit is not nearly so well cir- cumstanced, as there, in a general way, the branches are much too close together, and the Pears hanging from one are smothered or shaded and hidden up by the leaves of the other, and the fruit never has the flavour of that which gets the full solar rays. Pyramids often have the same fault, that is, too many branches, which shade each other ; but in- stead of trees being in that state they ought not to have their stems nearer than 2 feet, and the one growing up and trained midway between two or triangularly in the way plants are planted. The sun and light then have fair play round, bat spurs should not be thick nor shoots allowed to grow without being stopped at the proper time during the summer, or they work much evil, not only in robbing and drawing off the sap, but in the shade they cast, as no fruit suffers more than the Pear it the solar rays cannot play on the skin. The finest dessert Apples I have ever seen were grown on espaliers, and those who desire these with all the rich colour some of the best kinds are capable of taking on must have trees so trained, or as cor- dons, which are much the same, the only difference being they have only one branch instead of several, and are toys compared to the others. Not only is fruit produced on espaliers of far better colour and quality, but the system of training the trees has much to recommend it, as they take so little room, and when judiciously arranged define and give character to the garden, as they may be carried along up each side of the main pathways and at the back of others, so as to have borders in front in which to grow low neat crops, such as Strawberries, salading, or flowers if the fancy is that way inclined. In some parts wind is very troublesome, and in autumn sometimes strips orchards of their fruit, but when such gales occur that on espaliers is safe, as there is no movement of the branches, and wind has but little effect on the heavy Apples and Pears hanging beneath. Wires for training espalier Apples and Pears should not be nearer than a foot, which is a very good dis- tance, and before planting the trees the ground ought to be trenched and have a heavy dressing of rubbish-heap material worked in below, as this greatly improves the subsoil and is highly bene- ficial to the roots of the plants. J. Sheppaed. Apples for Nottinghamshire. — Seeing your editorial remark on Lord Suflield Apple, I thought it might be interesting to you to see one in excellent preservation so late in the season. The Apple sent you was grown on a bush tree. Blen- heim Orange, Lord Snffleld, Bramley's Ssedling, Northern Greening, and Normanton Wonder or " Domleo's Seedling," will be found the best kinds for an orchard in South Nottinghamshire. I be- lieve the usual spelling of the last name is in- correct, and that the Apple was raised by a Mr. Domleo, in the adjoining parish of Normanton-on- Soar. The name is an old one in this part of the world, and, although pronounced " Dumelow," is spelt " Domleo." Perhaps some of your readers have better information.— G. E. Paget. Phylloxera and tank borders. — I am much obliged to Mr. T. Challis for the kind way in which he has interested himself in endeavouring to help me in this matter, and I regret that absence from home prevented me from replying sooner to his proposal. I could not do this until I ascertained what had become of the affected roots. These, I find, have been destroyed, so that I am unable to forward them for the examination which you kindly pro- mised to undertake. If, however, the disease shows itself on any of my other Vines, I will be glad to avail myself of your promise and to forward some of the roots after flooding. I may add that the flooding suggested by Mr. Challis has been carefully done ever since the Vines were replanted in spring, 1885. I am also obliged to Mr. J. Whitworth Shaw for his note on the subject. Perhaps he would kindly give me the name of the American Vine stock which is not liable to injury by the Phylloxera, and also tell me what he thinks of the Grape which it pro- duces.— A. W. N. MARKET GARDEN NOTES. The work of supplying the markets takes up more time than usual before and after Christmas, but growers will be glad of the extra demand to get some of the land cleared. There is a great quantity of green crops on hand, and as the time for getting in Peas, Beans, and other early crops is at hand, the work of clearing the ground must be pushed on. The short spell of frosty weather has given place to mild, damp days, and at present there are few signs of sufficient frost to allow of the carting of manure on to the land. The crops that are in most demand in market at present are Broccoli, which for the period of year is very good, the winter protecting varieties yielding the present supply, as the great thickness of foliage was sufficient to ward off the late frosts. The latest lot of Autumn Giant Cauliflowers where they had not been cleared were quite blackened. Savoys are in great demand at Christmas, and this season they are unusually plentiful. The mild weather that prevailed during November having caused them to make excessive growth, a good many, especially of the Drumhead kind, are rendered unsaleable by bursting. Brussels Sprouts are now at their best, and are being marketed in quantity, as if mild weather prevails the sprouts soon start to grow and lose their firm texture. Herbs of all kinds sell more freely at this time than at any other, and great quantities of Sage, Thyme, and especially Parsley, are sent to market. Horse Radish, specially prepared for the Christmas markets, is one of the crops that repays good cul- ture, for when small sticks are a drug in the market, extra large ones realise good prices and sell freely. The forcing houses, pits, and frames are now in active use or being prepared for cropping, as during the first three or four months of the year the best prices are realised for forced products. The most important crop is Seakale, This is forced in great quantities and seldom fails to sell freely. The principal crops that go to market are grown from young plants raised from sets planted out very early in the year in good soil. These are lifted in autumn, and re- planted in beds either in the bottom of Mushroom houses or on hotbeds made up specially and covered with matsandlitter,so that the blanching is perfect. All the roots that are broken off in lifting are pre- pared as sets for next year's crops, as the old roots after forcing are discarded. ASPARAUUS is forced in heated pits with bottom and top heat, young strong plants about three years old being usually employed. Rhubarb sells freely early in the season, and great quantities are forced for market, as it is not a very profitable crop when grown naturally ; the crowns for forcing are grown specially for that purpose. By cutting up large clumps in spring and planting the single crowns on rich soil and pulling none of the stalks daring the season, they mature fine crowns, which If packed closely together in warm dark sheds or under the stages of forcing houses soon send up a fine crop of well- blanched growths. Fruit of home growth is now very scarce and prices for good samples are high. Amongst the best and in greatest demand are Apples, that either for cooking or dessert find a ready sale at good prices, any good sort being worth 8s. per bushel, and any specially selected fruit IO3. and upwards. Pears that are really eatable are realising good prices, but the varieties that keep good until Christmas are not much grown for market. Winter Nelis is one of the best at present for dessert ; a good many of the large cooking sorts are put on the market and usually sell well. Evergreens form an important item in market supplies at present, but the almost entire absence of Holly berries robs the market stalls of one of their chief attractions. Mistletoe is this year well berried, and the ordinary mixtures of Evergreens seem in great request. Cut flowers are in great request, the latest sorts of Chrysanthemums being especially useful, with Arum Lilies and other white flowers, for church decoration. White and scarlet are the colours in demand with plenty of Fern fronds and other foliage for mixing with them, and green Moss for ground work. James Groom. Uosjiort. Scarcity of Holly berries. — Upon what principle can the remarkable scarcity of Holly berries be accounted for ? Berried Holly has fetched an almost unheard of price in Covent Garden Market; a dozen bundles which in an ordi- nary season would be worth 83. or lOi. have been sold for as much as 50j. It is said by those accus- tomed to the market that they have known the price as high as 2O3. to 30i. per dozen bundles, but 5Us. is an almost unheard of price. The scarcity appears to be general throughout the country, and in the south of England, where Holly grows abun- dantly, the scarcity is as marked as in any other part of the country. — X. In this district there was but little berried Holly to be found for the Christmas decorations ; in fact I never remember seeing such a scarcity. Hollies, in common with nearly all other ever- green and deciduous trees and shrubs, flowered very freely, but evidently the flowers were im- perfect or puny, as the greater portion of them failed to set. It was, however, by no means a complete failure, as we had a good quantity of berries on the green-leaved varieties especially, but flocks of improvident blackbirds and other fruit- eating birds cleared them off long before frosty weather set in. The consequence of this early clearance may be the death of a good many of these (to gardeners) unpopular marauders during the prevalence of a long spell of frosty weather, their food supply being already nearly exhausted. —I. Berried Holly has this year been extremely scarce in the London market, and, as a conse- quence, the price of this indispensable Ever- green for Christmas decorations has been propor- tionately high ; much higher, indeed, than I ever remember to have been the case. In the week preceding the Christmas holidays, twelve moderate- sized bundles were sold in Covent Garden for five guineas, and the fortunate possessor of the topof asmall tree that was well ben ied refused seven guineas for it, his price being ten guineas. In this neighbourhood I know of but two trees that had any- thing like a crop of berries on them, and these were literally cut to pieces ; even the tops were cut off. These trees are upwards of half a century old, and are, of [course, ruined. Such vandalism makes one almost regret that there should be such a thing as Christmas decorations, for Hollies of that size cannot ha replaced in less than a lifetime. One of them was the smooth-leaved variety, that seems to be excep- tionally sure-fruiting. Curiously enough, I have raised numbers of seedlings from this tree, but all the plants have come prickly-leaved. — J. C. B. The rubbish yard.— At this season of the year a general clear up is always advisable in this department. All material that can be burned should be gathered together in a heap in favourable weather. This rubbish when reduced to ashes will make a good manure, and can be mixed with soil 16 THE GARDEN. [Jan. i, 1890. from old Melon and Cucumber beds, afterwards to be applied as a top-dressing to shrubs where they have become impoverished, or it may be worked into the soil when any replanting is being per- formed with very good results, especially in reten- tive soils. — J. H. "S. D.," in his note (Dec, 21, p. 569) on " Rubbish Heaps," speaks of their value and how they may be used to enrich the soil. This is very true, but there is another side to the picture, for I think there can be no doubt that they are often the means of various pests being spread over the land, and that much that is thrown into the rubbish heap had far better be burnt— plants which are attacked by any fungus or insect, for instance. The spores of some fungi will remain many months without germinating ; those of the finger and toe, or club-root fungus, for example. If Cabbages, Turnips, or other plants attacked by this pest are thrown on to a rubbish heap, when the contents of this heap are spread over the soil the spores of the fungus will certainly be carried with them and sown broadcast over a considerable surface of the ground ; and if plants liable to be attacked by this fungus are grown in this infected soil they will assuredly suffer. Other fungi may be spread in the same manner. While dead or dying plants attacked by mildew are lying on the rubbish heap, the spores may be blown about on to other plants. Certain insects, too, may be pro- pagated on rubbish heaps. The grubs of several kinds which feed and become chrysalides within leaves and roots will come to perfection just as readily if the leaves and roots be thrown on to a rubbish heap as if they had been allowed to remain where they were growing. The seeds of many weeds are often sown on land when a rubbish heap is dispersed, so that great care must be taken not to throw into a heap the remains of plants attacked by fungi or insects, and weeds whose seeds are nearly ripe. It is a much safer plan to burn all the rubbish, clippings of hedges, prunings of trees, weeds, &o., which should be destroyed. If the fire be so made that it will not burn too rapidly, but slowly smoulder away, a quantity of valuable ashes will be the result.— G. S. S. without any attempt to make the Heath of more general benefit to the public. If the County Council make as great mistakes they will meet with similar unpopularity. Some months ago you published a scheme by one of the first landscape gardeners of the day for forming a boundary road and ride, well planted, all round the Heath. If carried out, this would add enormously to its use and beauty, and would prevent the perpetration of any such plan as a road from Well Walk to Higligate, ur any such mistakes as seem threatened by all that any observer can ascertain from what is being done near Parliament Hill. The Hamp- .stead Vestry and our members on the County Council must not be the victims of misplaced confidence in former officers of the disgraced Board of Works. — Your.s, &c., " An Old Resident. "■ Hampstead, Dec. 14." NOTES OF THE WEEK. Public Gardens. HAMPSTEAD HEATH. We reprint the following letter addressed to the editor of the E.rpress ; — " Sib, — I am sure you are right in the belief expressed in one of your short leaders to-day that the formation of a carriage road across the Heath from Well Walk to Highgate would spoil the Heath. But we all want to know what is going on about Parliament Hill. When inquiry was made at the County Council we were told that nothing could be done until the Council came into formal possession of the land ; yet a great deal is being done which artists and others think is proof of want of any plan, or of work on a bad plan. We should like to know who is responsible. Hampstead parish raised a liberal contribution towards the enlargement of the Heath, and so did St. Pancras ; yet the two parishes, so far as reports of their Vestry meet- ings can be taken as a guide, are in complete ignorance of what is being done, or what is pro- posed— whether there is any plan agreed upon, and if so, what. It would be well if our repre- sentatives on the County Council would keep their eyes open, and not allow their body to be discredited, as tlie Metropolitan Board of Works was by their mistakes and mismanagement. The unpopularity of the late Board in these northern districts was kept up by the many mistakes they made about the Heath— an old highway closed, a useful pubUc way for carriages converted into an exclusive bridle track for horsemen, useful public space covered by use- leas and ugly enclosed plantations — and all A new Orchid catalogue. — We learu that the Socicfcy of Dutch Orchidists, composed of twenty uiembors, have just publislied a catalogue of Orchids cultivated in European collections, followed by a list of their principal synonyms. St. Brigid Christinas Rose. — I have sent for your inepectiou a few flowers of the St. Brigid Ilelle- bore, which is without a question the finest of this family. — Tuos. S. Ware. *j(* A very beautiful kiud, but some of our growers think some of the other kinds are more attractive. — Ed. Rooting up of Cyclamen europaeum. — The rooting up of this Cyclamen, we learn from Le Mnni- teur d' Horticulture, has increased so of late, that the prefect of Annecy is determined to try and stop it. He has prohibited the removal of this charming flower throughout the department of La Haut, Savoy. Winter Nelis Pear.— We bought some Califor- nian Winter Nelis Pears from Mr. Webber, of Covent Garden, and which had the tine quality of this variety in a very high degree, but on the whole not better than English-grown fruits. We think the English- grown fruit fresher ; the flesh is nicer, but unhappily we cannot get enough of it. Odontoglossum Rossi majus.— I herewith enclose a bloom of 0. Rossi majug for your inspection. It is taken from a spike 12 inches long, carrying seven flowers and seems to me an extra good variety. Would you kindly give your opinion through The Garden? — J. R. Hall, Foj: ^^an■en Gardens. *»* A fair form, the flowers of good size. — Ed. Tree Tomato. — I have read your remarks on the Tree Tomato with some interest, as I have fruited it here, and whatever can be said of it as a pleasant fruit to eat, it is highly ornamental, and therefore worth cultivation. I do not know Solanum fragrans, but 1 have had plants of a Solanum called Melon Pear for several years, but it has never either flowered or fruited. I enclose leaves of both and will be glad to have information as to the treatment of the Melon Pear.- W. H. M., Munches. Bambusa palmata is a new Chinese species, a specimen of which I send. It is quite the hand- somest of the kinds at present in our gardens, the largest leaf being being 13 inches long by over 3 inches in width — quite giant dimensions in a Bamboo. The habit of the plant is similar to that of the well-known kind B. Mctake, hitherto one of the handsomest Ever- greens w^e had, but which will now be quite eclipsed by the new-comer. — T. Smith, Newry. Ranunculus anemonoides. — This very beau- tiful, but somewhat dithcult plant is promising well for abundance of flowers during the coming spring. One rarely sees it in good condition in the neighbourhood of London, although twenty or thirty miles out we have seen it a mass of the most lovely pink-tinted blossoms, enhanced by the pale rose of the outside. It is a typi- cal alpine Crowfoot and ought to become a general favourite, notwithstanding it is at times fastidious. Cytisus decumbens. — A charming prostrate Cytisus for rockery decoration is that known in gar- dens as C. decumbens. It rarely exceeds 6 inches in height, with creeping woody stems, well furnished with small bright green three-parted leaves, and bear- ing small axillary bunches of large yellow brownish purple-tinted flowers. It is a native of the French and Italian Alps, and forms one of the most beautiful and interesting of the native plants. It is perfectly hardy and certainly a valu ible acquisition to our list of dwarf rock shrubs. Nice turfy loam suits it ad- mirably on exposed shelves or beds. The Sallow Thorn, or Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), is very beautiful just now when things generally are dull and flowerless. The plant grows from G feet to 8 feet or more high. In summer it is interesting on account of its silvery leaves, and at present its bright orange berries are very conspicuous. These berries, which are about the size of a pea, are clustered on the young shoots very thickly, the effect being very brilliant. It is quite at home close to a lake or pond, and given pienty of space it soon becomes established. It requires both the male and female forms to begin with. Removal of Professor Reichenbach's collections. — We learn from the German horticul- tural journals that the collections of this celebrated orchidist have just left the Botanic Garden of Hamburg to be placed in the Imperial Museum of Vienna. No less than three days were occupied in bringing his collections to the railway station, and they filled four large wagons. These collections were in 59 cases, of which 30 contained the dried specimens, and 33 the library ; 134 large boxes were filled with various materials, and 11411 packets of printed notes and manuscripts accompanied the specimens of dried Orchids. Polypodiums, of which there are now a large number of distinct and beautiful forms, we find most useful for the rockery in winter ; they have the advantage of being evergreen, and the grace- ful or variously crested fronds hanging from the crevices of rocks fresh and green almost as in spring is an effect to be welcomed and extended. These Ferns are almost evergreen, losing their fronds for a very short time only in late spring. The forms comubiense, trichomanoides, and others of this set are almost as beautiful as a crisped Kil- larney Fern, and of course are available for more exposed situations. Scolopendriums, especially of the Kelwayi section, are also useful, and when grown in sheltered spots retain their bright varied green all through the winter months. Hamiltonia spectahilis. — This ornamental and sweet-scented stove evergreen flowering shrub, mentioned by your correspondent " W. H. G." on p. G05 of your last issue, seems to be more generally known to botanists under its synonym of Sperma- dictyon. Under this name, two other varieties of it, named respectively S. snaveolens, with small pure white flowers, and S. scabrum, with pale blue flowers, are figured by Dr. Lindley, the first in vol. iv. of Edwards' " Botanical Register" on plate 348, and the second in vol. xv. of same work on plate 1235. These plants are natives of India, China, and the Indian Archipelago, S. scabrum being most generally found in Nepaul. H. spec- tabiUs is well figured on p. 191 of the volume of the Bevue HorticoU for 1872. As to the origin of the name, it was first given by Dr. Roxburgh, who made it the foundation of a genus when the plants were first introduced, but finding that the name of Hamiltonia was already used for a diflferent group, the present name of Spermadictyon was given to them by Mr. Brown.- W. E. Gumbletos. An insect pest.— At the meeting of the scien- tific committee of the Royal Horticultural Society on December 10, Mr. Morris read a letter addressed to the Director, Royal Gardens, Kew, by Mt. R. W. Blunfield : " I see in the August number of the Ken- Bulletin an interesting account of the Icerya purchasi, and its depredations in South Africa, California, &c. During the past four years our gardens at Alexandria have been invaded by a coccus, which threatens now to destroy all our trees, and is causing the greatest alarm here. . . . It first appeared about four years ago, when I noticed it in quantities on the under side of the leaves of a Banyan tree, but it has since spread with extraordinary rapidity, and one of our most beautiful gardens, full of tropical trees and shrubs, has been almost destroyed. A breezs sends the Jan. i, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 17 cottony bugs down in showers in all directions. It seems to attack almost any plant, but the leaves of Ficus rubiginosa and one or two other kinds of Fig seem too tough for it, and it will not touch them. It seems almost hopeless here for a few horticulturists to try to eradicate this formidable pest while their indifferent neighbours are har- bouring hotbeds of it, and there will have to be some strong measures taken by law to put it down." The insect in question had been referred to Mr. Douglas, and was said to be an undescribed species of Dactylopiiis. Spraying with kerosene emulsion was recommended, but no remedy was likely to be effectual that was not carried out universally. The late Clyde disaster. — At the final meet- ing of the committee held at the otHces of Messrs. Protheroe and Morris on the 20th of December, Mr. H. J. Veitch presiding, Mr. Horsman, the hon. sec, announced that the total receipts amounted to £i53 3s., and it was unanimously resolved (1) that the subscription list be declared closed, (2) that the sum of £452 be equally divided between Mrs. Hall and Mrs. Fraser, (3) that the arrangements for investing the respective amounts be left in the hands of Mr. Veitch and Mr. Protheroe, and (4) that as soon as the investment has been made a report be sent to all subscribers. Mr. Horsman was accorded a hearty vote of thanks for his services as hon. secretary, as also were the editors of the various gardening papers for their kind co-operation in giving publicity to the committee's proceedings. A new Carnation. — We have to-day sent you a Bower and growth of a new winter-flowering Car- nation, Mme. Arthur Warocque. The same was obtained from a sport of the well-known Souvenir de la Malmaison. The plant is of a sturdy, dwarf- growing habit, and does not exceed 12 inches in height. The flowers are large, well shaped, and brilliantly coloured. They are produced very freely, five to six being open at one time. We have a quantity in bloom now, to the admiration of every- body. We are certain that this will prove a grand acquisition to the winter - flowering Carnations. — SociETB Anonyme l'Hobticultukb Inter- nationale. *,* A free, strong-habited variety, the flowers rich scarlet, robust in form, and showy. A good kiml for pots. — Ed. New varieties of Tulipa Greigi. — We are already getting impatient to see our new varieties of Tulipa Greigi ; they are already showing leaf, and so far promise well. T. Greigi far surpasses all other Tulips in cultivation at the present time for size and vividness of colour, a group looking like a huge flame of the most brilliant scarlet. There are no less than fifteen varieties offered by a Continental nurseryman, all of them said to be distinct, and to have broken into several distinct tints of colouring variously dispersed over the flower. If these prove as beautiful and interesting as the type they will be a handsome acquisition to our spring beds and borders, which, although at present anything but dull, will stand fresh addi- tions if of the right sort. All these varieties have been raised from seed, and it opens up a wide field for those interested in the improvement of florists' flowers. They all seem to retain their beautiful and distinct leaf markings, which in themselves are a source of no little interest all through the early spring months. T. Greigi is not one of the easiest to propagate, but in good soil one has not to wait long for a reasonable increase. — K. A valuable Cotoneaster.— A Cotoneaster, which has not flowered there yet, received at the Arnold Arboretum some time ago from Messrs. Veitch's nursery, under the name of C. baciUaris floribunda, is, says Garden and Forest, a remark- able and interesting plant at this season of the year. The foliage on Dec. 1 was fresh and bright green, and on the 6th of the month, when all the deciduous-leaved plants in the collection, with the e.^ception of Elseagnus umbellata and two or three others, on all of which they were already much wilted and disfigured, had lost their leaves, those of this Cotoneaster, although they had been sub- jected to a temperature as low as 10° above zero, were just turning to a deep, rich wine colour. This shrub, whatever its name and origin may be, is certainly worth growing for its late autumn and early winter foliage. It is vigorous and very hardy, of good habit, with large leaves, and slender, spreading branches, covered with bright green bark, which at this season of the year turns claret colour on the side toward the sun. It has the appearance of growing to a large size. The Roman Hyacinth.— A nice group of the so-called blue Roman Hyacinth is now in flower in the greenhouse at Kew. It seems to belong to H. provincialis rather than to H. albulus, the true Roman Hyacinth, 'and agrees pretty well with a figure in the liotanical Ret/ister under the name of H. orientalis, but as the plant was gathered near " Grasse," it is no doubt intended for provincialis. Can any of your readers tell me the difference between the South European H. provincialis and the Asia Minor H. orientalis, if there is such a plant as the latter in a wild state/ Whatever it may be, it will want a great deal of manipulating before it will be accepted as a rival to the good old Roman Hyacinth. It is said to force well, and to flower as early as the white one ; this, however, has not been our experience. It is certainly not so early by a fortnight or more, the flowering being as irre- gular as that of Scilla sibirica. There are several forms found in South Europe as good as the present one, and under the same conditions would doubt- less flower as early. It would be interesting to try them and see how they behave under cultivation. — K. The Squills.— The Squills, Scilla sibirica and S. bifolia and its numerous varieties, are largely used for spring decoration both in the greenhouse and conservatory, and they well deserve their popularity. There are many others, however, be- longing to the hispanioa or campanulata set equally as beautiful and as easily forced. The flowers of this latter species are larger and more numerous than those of the two first, and, what is of great importance in early spring, have ample bright green foliage. The white form is very beautiful, the large bell-shaped flower being pure white with prettily fringed edges. Grandiflora, Napoleon, rubra, CEerulea, elegantissima, maxima, and carnea are only a few of the numerous varieties one has to choose from. In forcing this set the plants had better be placed in an intermediate temperature at first, and as close to the glass as possible. This keeps them sturdy and allows the flowers to ^de- velop before the leaves become too luxuriant. If gradually hardened off after coming out of the forcing pit they are not readily damaged by cold, and may be placed in a cool conservatory or corri- dor.—K. aided in a great measure by its shows to further the cultivation of the Chrysanthemum, but if the exhibitions were to be removed to the Crystal Palace, much more good might result. — Flora. A meeting of Chrysanthemum growers will be held at the Royal Aquarium, Westminster, on Wednesday next, in conjunction with the midwinter exhibition of the National Chrysanthemum So- ciety. It will be held in the course of the after- noon, and the subjects for discussion include, "Are Chrysanthemums wanted at Midwinter .' " by Mr. J. Kipling, of Knebworth. Flower shows at the Koyal Aquarium. — lam entirelyin accord with "B.C. R.'' on this matter (p. (ill). It is undoubtedly "a standing disgrace to the National Chrysanthemum Society to hold their shows in such a building." I was there once only, to see the Chrysanthemum exhibition, and have no desire to go again. That was some few years back. Even then it was crowded most uncomfortably and full of stale tobacco fumes. No wonder "B. C. R. " says he has "often heard gentle- men's gardeners complain of their having to exhibit where the ladies of the family could not think of going." He is not by any means alone in this matter, for I ha\e heard the same thing said. I know a gentleman myself who would not permit his gardener to show at the N.C.S. whilst held in its present headquarters. They would do far better work in the long run it their meetings were held in more congenial quarters. The N.C.S. has THE GARDENERS' ORPHAN FUND. Tin; concluding monthly meeting of the com- mittee for the past year took place at the Cale- donian Hotel, Adelphi, on Dec. 27, Mr. George Deal presiding. The minutes of the last meeting having been read, the hon. sec, Mr. A. F. Barron, read a communication from Mr. W. Richards in reply to the letter of condolence in his illness, conveying his grateful thanks for their expressions of sympathy. Several sums of money were an- nounced, among them from Mr. G. W. Cummins, The Grange Gardens, Wallinglon, £1 IDs., and from Mr. Chapman, gardener to Mr. H. W. Robinson, Romford, ISs., in each case from boxes on the occasion of opening the Chrysanthemum show in the gardens to the public. From Mr. R. Scott, The Gardens, Bradfield, Yorks, box in the gar- dens and at the Chrysanthemum show, £4 Os. 2d. ; Croydon Chrysanthemum Society, donation £1 Is.; Isle of Thanet Chrysanthemum Society, per Mr. Miller, local sec, ISs. 2d. ; Mitcham Chrysanthe- mum Society, per Mr. C. Gibson, Morden Park Gardens, 9s. ; Gardeners' Mutual Improvement So- ciety, per Mr. Soaring. Sevenoaks, £1 ; Mr. H. DeveriU, seedsman, Banbury, box in office, £3 ; young gardeners at The Grove, Stanmore, fees paid to botany class (Mr. J. Odell giving his ser- vices gratuitously), £3 ; Ancient Society of York Florists, proceeds of flower service at one of the churches and flower sale at the recent Chrysan- themum show, per Mr. J. Lazenby, £10 ; Ealing and District Gardeners' Society, proceeds of con- cert, £20 2s. ; with this amount came a request that the sum be divided in four sums of £5 each, and that the following promoters, Messrs. E. Chad- wick, E. Cannon, E. Fountain, and A. Wright, be placed on the list as life subscribers. This was agreed to, and a cordial vote of thanks was passed to each of the foregoing donors. A letter was read from Mr. Gleeson, Clumber Park Gardens, announc- ing the sum of £56, including a few private subscriptions, and that it was the intention of the promoters to make the sum up to £60, so as to place a child from that neighbourhood on the fund for the space of six years, in accordance with the rule under which this can be done. A commu- nication was read from Mr. Jas. Brown, The Gar- dens, Great Doods, Reigate, stating that the com- mittee of the Reigate and District Chrysanthe- mum Society had presented £50 to the Gardeners' Orphan Fund, and a similar amount to the Gar- deners' Royal Benevolent Institution. Mr. Barron announced that the proprietors of the Covent Gar- den Theatre had arranged a ticket benefit in aid of the fund, to extend from Feb. 3 to Feb. 14 ; that tickets could be obtained from him admitting to either a morning or evening performance on any one of the inclusive dates. A cheque was drawn for the quarterly allowances to children upon the fund amounting to £61 15s. A vote of thanks to the chairman brought the proceedings to a close. Making lawn-tennis courts. — In reply to " Surrey," I should say that 2 feet of slope would, except for match-play, be no harm, if it is, as I suppose, spread over a length of 100 feet or so. It is more important that a lawn-tennis court should be free from Moss than absolutely a dead level. A fuli-sized court is 78 feet by 36 feet. A 20-feet space should be allowed between the two courts if side by side, and at least 24 feet behind the back lines. Nine out of ten lawn-tennis courts are spoiled by insufficient margins. A good game is impossible where the players are cramped by want of space, especially behind the service lines. —J. H. W. TnoMAS. Rosalaxa(i-.'j'j;t')i't')i(ia docet), — See advertisement in The Garden of this week. Name of plant. — J. F. Wilkinson. — i'orm of Ciulogyne ocelluta. Name of fruit.— /Ihoh. — Apple, Waltham Abbey Seedling. 18 THE GAUDBN [Jan. 4, 1890. WOODS AND Forests. QUALITIES OF TIMBER. Our ideas of the value of timber for various purposes are formed from its weight, its tough- ness, durability, or its hardness. Where the ligneous structure is dense, and the tissues are closely compressed, the wood is heavy ; where there is a watery sap, which evaporates quickly, the wood shrinks cousiderably and afterwards decays rapidly when exposed. Thus all seasoned timber becomes lighter in proportion to this eva- poration, some kinds losing much less than others both in bulk and weight. Oak and Pine shrink but little, and that slowly ; Elm, on account of its glutinous sap, continues to shrink for a great number of years, while both the Poplar and the Willow shrink and season very rapidly. Where the sap becomes concreted in the cellular mem- branes, as in the case of matured Oak, or is fixed by its resinous qualities, as in the Pine, the timber attains a high value. The hardness of a wood depend.s upon the closeness of its woody structure, while its tough- ness is due to the strength of the longitudinal fibres and the elasticity of the intermediate cel- lular matter. The durability of timber exposed to much wear or friction is proportioned to the size, strength, and compactness of its fibre. Most of the hard and durable wood used for manufacturing purposes is the produce of small and comparatively slow-growing trees, such as the Yew, Box, and Ebony. It is found that Norwegian Hop poles of small diameter, but from forty to fifty years old, are much more lasting than our native Ash, Sweet Chest nut. Maple, and Oak, which are used for the same purposes, and which — though of larger size — are the growth of from only nine to thir- teen years. The durability of timber is not wholly de- pendent upon the fibres of the wood, but is partly caused by the quality of the sap, which, in some trees, is of a highly preservative nature ; thus the Oak has an astringent or tanning prin- ciple, as well as a ferruginous quality in its juices, and it is from a combination of these qualities that its durability in situations of ex- posure is obtained. The quality of Oak timber is never better than when the tree is grown in a good loam or loamy cl.ay, resting upon a sub- soil of blue clay, from which it obtains the oxide of iron with which the wood becomes impreg- nated. In the case of the true English Oak, it has been observed that the fast-grown tree attains the greatest strength of fibre, and its timber is on that account the most durable in situations where it is exposed to rough wear, as in gate-posts, and in spurs to posts and fencing. The general superior strength of fast-growing trees is due to the wider intervals between their concentric circles, or to the wood having fewer cells in comparison with the size of it. By com- paring the structure of a hard wood, such as the Locust Tree, with the soft wood of Fir, Lune, and Horse Chestnut, it will be seen that the former has its cells confined chiefly to the annual rings, or else scattered in groups of irregular figures, so that the solid fibre exists in considerable masses, giving strength, toughness, and durability, while tlie cells of the softer woods are scattered pretty regularly through the whole mass. To form a just estiuiate of the value of timber for a special purpose, it becomes necessary to consider its rate of growth at all ages, and not to be misled by ob- servations made at one stage of its existence. Again, by transferring any tree to a much better than its native soil, its rate of growth may be so much accelerated as to lessen very considerably the value of the timber. The comparative rate of growth of trees varies considerably at difl'erent stages of their existence. During the first ten years the Locust Tree nearly doubles the rate of growth of the Oak, after which the latter takes the lead and maintains it to the end. For the first ten or twelve years of its life the SUver Fir grows but slowly, and is far outstripped by the Larch and the Spruce ; but it soon distances all competitors, and by the time it reaches its fortieth year it surpasses them both in height and circumference. It may be observed that in the Pine and Fir tribes the cellular members forming the exterior part of each year's growth are possessed of greater strength and durability than the intermediate portion, as may be seen by the ribbed appearance of an old and well- woni deal floor. The soundness of timber may be ascertained by placing the ear close to one end of the log, while another person delivers a succession of smart blows with a hammer or mallet upon the opposite end, when the continuance of the vi- brations will indicate to an experienced ear even the degree of soundness. If only a dull thud meets tlie ear, the listener may be certain that unsoundness exists. The quality of timber is greatly dependent upon the aspect in which it is grown. Where this is northern, the wood is generally soft and not properly lignified ; consequently, it is better adapted for purposes of manufacture than for building. In this aspect the young trees sutler less from frosts in the spring in con- sequence of the vegetation being backward, but, owing to the tardiness of ripening, the summer shoots are frequently caught by early autumn frosts. An eastern aspect will grow trees of a good medium quality, fitted for the greatest number of uses ; conseciuently, this is considered the best aspect for forests of large size. As the temperature is moderate and the wind dry, vegetation is here fairly rapid. Upon a southern aspect, the timber, though superior in lignifica- tion, is more irregular in form. When the growth of the trees will admit of such uses, it is well adapted for building purposes requiring extra length and strength of beam and scant- ling. Upon a western aspect the heat is gener- ally considerable, on account of the sun shining upon it during the hottest hours of the day ; but, owing to the frequency, the strength, and the irregularity of the winds, the timber is often ill-shaped. B. UanagemeiLt of hedges. — Hedge culture de- pends much on the judicious use of the hedge-bill, and something also depends on the shape in which the hedge is cut. Some people recommend that hedges should be cut in the shape of an inverted A. This, it strictly adhered to, would hinder pro- gress of the hedge greatly, as well as deprive it of body and strength. I lately saw some hedges that were trained with belUed sides, rounding off to a peak at the top. A section of the hedge represented a Gothic arch more than anything else — a broad bottom, straight sides and a peaked top. Trained in this form, the bush is sooner up, as the top is not shortened so severely in cutting, while the sides are sufficiently pruned to make a fence dense and strong enough to form a barrier against cattle of any kind. Such hedges need no inner paling as a protection. The plea put forward for Quick hedges that they are pretty and ornamental when in bloom is all moonshine. Well-kept hedges never produce blossom, or at least should not do so. Their correct pruning is essentially restrictive, hence flowers and haws are out of the question. Many of the hedge- rows in England— the majority of them, indeed — have a rustic beauty about them from an artist's point of view, but in a cultural sense they are a wretched sight. Neglected at the outset, they grow all to top ; are then summarily lopped over, or are half -cut and bent down here and there to fiU up the gaps. Here a stake is driven in, and there stones are used where the hedge has failed alto- gether, and in the end we have a fence that is neither a hedge, a paling, nor a wall, but a com- pound of all the three, concerning the keeping and repairing of which the tenants and the landlords frequently quarrel. — R. THE WOOD OF THE BEECH. The Beech is one of the most useful British timber trees, although others are much more costly. It is well adapted for indoor purposes, but is less suited tor use out of doors. In its natural state it is largely used for cogs and where hardness is required, and when properly treated in felling, drying, and preparing, it is not superseded by emy other kind of English wood. The Holly, the Hornbeam, the Thorn, the Crab, &o., are often substituted for the Beech, but if treated in the following manner it maintains a decided superiority over these : When the Beech is to be used as mentioned, it should be felled during the months of December and January, but a few weeks prior to felling, several gaps should be chopped in the tree near the roots, in order to allow it to get rid of its sap freely. As soon as possible after felling it should be cut up as required, and put under cover in a perpendicular position. Often it is utterly spoilt by being laid aside horizontally, in which position it cannot dis- pose of its sap ; consequently its hardest properties are destroyed, and it is thereby[rendered practically useless for the best purposes for which it is re- quired. The growth of the Beech is very rapid, and it attains its prime in about from sixty to eighty years. It it is permitted to grow much older than this, it often becomes black-hearted, and this con- dition is followed by rottenness and shakes. In this state the wood is worthless for manufacturing pur- poses. The Beech isgenerally deceptive when hedge- grown, the reason being that in its early growth it is very tender and requires protection. Grown thus, it is exposed to blemishes of various kinds, and these turn black, the stain remaining in the wood ever afterwards. When stains occur the wood is valueless for steaming. Nearly all the Beech is now steamed, as this process greatly improves its colour. The more sap it contains the better it can be steamed, and a skilful person can give the wood a very bright hue by careful steaming. If it is allowed to lie several months after being felled it can seldom be used for the best purposes to which steamed Beech is put. Steaming does not improve its strength as it im- proves its appearance; it rather reduces this quality, though strength is seldom required where steamed Beech is used. When required for steaming it should not be felled when in full leaf, but in the months of October and November and again in April and May, when it contains most sap. We may here mention that joiners, when buying planes, frequently ask for red, or.as they call it, " male" Beech, in preference to the white or " female " Beech ; but if they were better acquainted with the process of steaming they might possibly reverse their preference, for it is by this process that the red hue is produced. The Beech develops a great quantity of sap, and feeds itself very much from its leaves. During a dry spring it will scarcely move its buds, but after a shower of rain the tree is soon in full leaf. Its growth always ceases early in the autumn. The best qualities of Beech are grown on light land, and when protected by other stronger kinds of timber trees. The Beech seldom attains to a large size in the open, and on account of the small- ness of its roots it is more liable to be uprooted in open situations than most other trees would be. In cutting up Beech timber when fresh and full, half an inch to 1 inch should always be allowed for shrinkage. There is only one other English timber, the Lime, which shrinks so much in dry- ing. There are two kinds of Beech; one kind bears fruit and the other does not, and in the opinion of some the fruit-bearing tree is the softer of the two. THE GARDEN. 19 No. 947. SATURDAY, Jan. U,7S90. Vol. XXXVII. "This is an Art Which docs mend Nature : change it rather ; The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeart. but The Orchard. IMPOVERISHED ORCHARD TREES. DrKiNi; the past three or four seasons a great many fruit trees have been planted, and if the country is not in a few years' time well supplied with hardv fruit, it ought to be. In several instances, however, that have come under my notice there has been an almost unaccountable oversight on the part of those responsible for the work done. They would appear to have overlooked the fact that it is quite as possible for fruit trees and bushes to impoverish the ground almost as quickly as any other crop. Those who start growing vegetables for market usually select a site within easy distance of a town, railway station, or canal, this not merely for the purpose of getting rid of the produce without having far to cart it, but also and prin- cipally on account of being able to obtain abundance of cheap, solid manure. It would not be wise to plant orchards in valleys near water where spring frosts are often very severe, but they might well be located on higher ground within easy distance of a good manure supply. In bygone days considerable numbers of fruit trees were planted evidently without much re- gard to their free-bearing character, and many of the more shy bearers especially attained a good old age and were fairly profitable. The modern planter is content witli a very limited variety, planting far greater numbers of each than ever his forefathers did ; but the question arises. How long will they continue to produce really good fruit in profitable quantities ? Not many seasons, I fear, unless the trees are liberally treated at the roots, and that, too, be- fore they have long been planted. In but few instances are any but the best known produc- tive varieties planted, the preference usually being given to those which commence to bear within about two or three years after they are in position. To make matters worse, the ground is generally closely cropped with fruit bushes and Strawberries, the latter being planted between mws of Gooseberries and Cur- rants, and coming off at the end of the third or fourth season. This undergrowth must greatly impoverish the ground, and unless therefore the standard trees when in good bearing condi- tion are well supplied with solid manure every second or third year, or a substitute be found for it, they will quickly wear out, nothing but crops of second-rate fruit being (jbtained from them. The manure question will have to be faced, and in any case it will be found a serious item in the expenditure. Already has \ the owner of one of, if not the largest fruit growing farms in the country discovered signs of failing health in the case of innumerable overcropped trees, and how to remedy it is the difliculty. Situated in Gloucestershire, far from any important town and not within easy access of either canal or railway, it is found an impossibility to procure a hundredth part of the manure required in the various orchards ex- tending collectively over upwards of 500 acres of ground, and the best substitute, bone ma- nure, if applied in sufficient quantities to be effective, is very expensive. On going through the orchards just alluded to about the time Scrawberries and bush fruits generally were being picked, I noticed several men applying liquid manure to the trees stand- ing most in need of it, and this is constantly being done as fast as the manure accumulates in the collecting tanks. This is found to be a rather slow, and, the horse and manual labour being reckoned, also a somewhat expensive affair, especially seeing there were no spaces left be- tween the trees to admit of a roadway for a horse and cart. I have had some experience in Essex fruit gardens, and those that remain in the most profitable state receive a dressing of good London manure or home-saved farmyard manure every second year, this being applies during the winter. Sometimes it is very lightly fcrked in, but more often it is merely spread thickly over the surface, though in either case it acts as both a mulch and fertiliser. Thus treated, the Gooseberries, Currants and Rasp berries are kept in a fairly vigorous state, rarely failing to produce fine crops of superior fruit, while the Apples, Pears, Plums, Damsons, and Cherries are also much benefited, very few stunted trees being seen. Nor should the value of a good supply of liquid manure be overlooked. Not a drop of this ought to run to waste, espe- cially where there are any fruit trees in a half- starved state, and, on the whole, I believe the winter and early spring months to be the best time for applying this, as well as the contents of sewage tanks, to the ground about the roots. It is worse than useless to give liquid manure to fruit trees and bushes in hot weather, or when the ground is dry and hard and the roots, perhaps, tender ; but the ground being moist and the roots at rest, strong liquid manure may safely be freely applied, much of its fertilising properties being absorbed by the ground and available as food for the trees when needed. Few think of using their manure among fruit trees during the winter, but it is a mistake not to thus utilise it. There is yet one other way out of the difii- culty experienced by those who have large or- chards and are unable or unwilling to expend much money in manure for the same. In some parts of America, Peaches, 1 am credibly in- formed, are extensively grown in orchards, the fruit being far more plentiful than are Apples, as a rule, in this country. Such enormous crops do the trees bear that they soon become exhausted and useless, the cultivators being under the necessity of planting fresh orchards very frequently, if not annually, to take the place of those gradually wearing out. Suppos- ing the trees and bushes are reared on the es- tate, as they now-a-days frequently are, it would not be very expensive for our fruit growers on a large Ecale to be constantly form- ing fresh orchards to replace those being ex- hausted, and in all probability this will be done in two or three instances I could name, as be- ing in the end the cheapest and best way of obviating the use of manure. W. Iggulden. Lord Suffleld Apple. — This Apple is not now so popular as it was twelve jears since in market gar- dens. Possibly it requires specially favourable sea- sons, but the impression prevailing is that whilst first-rate on jonng trees, it becomes weak with age and far less productive. That is a matter with respect to which it would be well if the widest expression of opinion could be obtained. That there is an un- doubted element of tenderness in the wood there can be no question, for it fails to mature at the points thoroughly, and any variety subject to that failing, as is the case with the Ribston Pippin, can never become widely grown or reliable. The Wellington Apple has in the form of old trees gone back sadly in popularity, as it crops indifferently after the trees have become twenty years old. To learn the aver- age endurance of varieties would be useful, and, of course, information should be furnished as to soil and position. Our somewhat cold clay may not be favourable to productiveness in Apples after the trees have become aged, but, all the same, we have vast quantities of trees in the district. Generally, I think the best course, even with standard trees on the free stock, is to plant somewhat thickly, that the produce may be of the largest when the trees are from eight to eighteen years old, and to clear off all the trees at the expiration of twenty-one years, having other plantations some five years old following on fresh soil. Trees of moderate age give the best fruit, and it is doubtful whether aged trees, having regard to the modem market requirements of fruit samples, are worth retaining, except they are Blen- heims or some especially robust varieties on favour- able soils. —A. D. This Apple, like all the Codlin section, being a profuse cropper, requires careful thinning to insure moderate growth of wood, especially when worked on the Paradise stock and grown on cold, heavy soils. Under these conditions the trees should be planted hillock fashion, and certainly they need not be lifted more than once, just to spread out the roots in the way they should go. The end of the first year after planting is the best time to lift, and seeing that cordons 2 feet to 3 feet in height set four times as many Apples as they can carry to maturity, they will stand any amount of mulching all the year round and feeding with good liquid after the crop is thinned. Young trees on dwarfing stocks may then be induced to make shoots furnished with leaf buds, and once this style of growth is secured, its continuance will en- tirely depend upon the timely use of the scissors. For orchard planting this Apple should be worked on the Crab, and trained as an extension dwarf bush. For garden culture it does well on the Eng- lish Paradise stock, and the less it is pruned, the healthier the tree. Apple trees of all kinds, espe- cially the choice varieties on Paradise stocks, are crowded with flower-buds of the first quality, and the season proving favourable, they will produce a profusion of fruit. Those who wish to have the finest quality, and at the same time a supply of young wood, should clip out the weakest buds before the flowers expand. — W. C. FRUIT GROWING IN BRITAIN. To THE Editor of the Times. SiK, — The letter on this subject in the Times of December 30 puts the case obliquely and un- fairly. Of the comparatively unknown Apple Gravenstein but little need be said. Occa- sionally an English growth is as good as any that has been imported, but the variety is best adapted for amateurs who grow collections, and is scarcely thought of for market culture. Of Newtown Pippin something similar may be said, but this is more often met with in fine qiiality of home growth than the other, but for all that it may be disposed of as one of the curiosities of the fruit garden. Your correspondent does himself and the cause a wrong by declaring that the public taste is sufiiciently discrimiuative, and then pro- nouncing King of the Pippins as " very poor in flavour," because this is one of the most popular of Apples, and the public taste has never had enough of it. It appears in the market when home-grown Apples of many kinds abound, but it carries all before it in price, and the stocks, however large, are soon cleared out. Nor is its good quality a matter of recent knowledge, for Rea, in his "Flora," published 1676, speaks of it as " better tasted " than the Juneating ; and Dr. Hogg, in 1884, described it in the fifth edi- tion of his "Fruit Manual" as "one of the richest flavoured early dessert Apples." Your correspondent is unhappy in his choice of Blenheim and Ribston, for the first is slow to bear and the second is so liable to canker, that 20 THE GARDEN. [Jan. W, 1890. no one can predicate that it will pay in any place until it has stood the test of years. Of Cox's Oringe Pippin, the best of the three re- commended, it may he said that it supersedes the Ribston for all general purposes. It may be grown in any form, on any stock, and in any fairly good soU south of the Trent, and on the western coast as far north as the Clyde ; it is not subject to canker, bears abundantly, keeps until March, and is the equal of Ribston in size, beauty, and flavour. The tendency of market growers is to turn their crops of all kinds into money as soon as possible ; hence they grow early maturing Apples, such as Lord Suffield, Stirling Castle, the King, and Golden Noble. These and other favourites are cleared off before the Baldwins come in ; but when the Baldwins are gone there remain so few Apples that it may be said the season closes with them. There we touch a weak point in British fruit culture. Apples are wanted until April or May, but both in pri- vate gardens and in market gardens the late- keepers appear to be least in favour. There are, however, many Apples of fine quality and sure bearing that carry the supplies to March and April and even to June or July. Team's Pippin, a beautiful fruit, keeping to March ; Boston Russet, of the finest flavour, keeping to April ; and Cox's Orange, good until the end of March, are all free bearers of excellent constitution, and as well adapted for profitable cultivation as any Apples known. For a southern climate and a deep, light soil Golden Reinette on the Paradise stock is in- valuable, and keeps well until April or May. There are two grand Apples adapted for late use that, though in high favour with advanced fruitists, are not so well known to the general public as they deserve to be. These are Lane's Prince Albert and Dumelow's Seedling, also known as Wellington. These bear annually and abundantly ; they have a fine appearance, are of excellent quality for culinary purjioses, and keep well to March or April. Given a reason- able breadth of these on a fairly good soil, a fair return may be reckoned on, provided they are not sent into the market until they are wanted, for it is a miserable business to hurry such into competition with perishable sorts at a time when the markets are glutted. A handsome Apple is at this time worth Gd. retail. I was asked that price for a brilliant sample of Northern Spy a few days since. As for the noble Blenheim, it has been much overrated as a fruit for profit. In whatever form it may be grown — and the free standard is the best form — its persistent slowness to show a crop is a serious obstacle to its general acceptance. Many good sorts of Apples may be found that will pay their way a dozen times ere the Blen heim of the same age has shown a single fruit. Moreover, it is not constitutionally adapted for general use, although in a place that suits it one lias only to wait half a lifetime, and then it may prove a pearl of great price. — Shirley Hibbeed, Kaiv, Dec. 30. [Mi: J. IFri'ght agrees n-Hh Mr. Hibberd.] Some letters have recently appeared in the Times in which the merits and demerits of certain varieties of Apples are discussed . English- grown fruits of the Gravenstein have been alleged to be not worth eating. King of the Pippins inferior, while the American NewtonTi Pippin was extolled for its high quality. Samples of all the varieties are sold that difl'er greatly in merit, according to the age of the trees, and the soil and district in which they are growing, or dying. The true German Gravenstein ripens in this country, and the fine fruits are delici- ously refreshing, quite equalling, and even ex- celUig, some of the imported Newtown Pippins, but not aU. But it must be remembered that quantities of Apples are sold as Gravensteins which are not Gravensteins. King of the Pip- pins Apple is not so rich as Cornish GUlyflower, nor as the best examples of the two varieties above named ; but if plantations of an equal number of trees of the four varieties were estabUshed in a field of good soil there is very little doubt that by the time suflicient fruit had been gathered from three of them to pay the rent of the land the crops yielded by King of the Pippins would have realised enough money to buy the freehold. It is one of the most cer- tain bearers of all table Apples, and trees have often afforded good crops in "bad" years when those of most other varieties were barren. The correct name of this Apple is Golden Winter Pearmain, but the popular name is employed, as under that name trees are ge- nerally sold, and mistakes are not likely to occur, as the true King, a much earlier Apple, is scarcely grown in nurseries. It is a great mis- take for persons who plant trees for profit to choose the most highly - flavoured varieties simply becau.se they possess this one quality — an important merit no doubt, but there are others, such as hardiness of tree and blossom, with productiveness, that are of more substan- tial value. Then some handsome and excellent sorts are notoriously slow bearers. Mr. Shirley Hibberd, in the Times of January 3, refers to the Blenheim Pippin as one of these, I agree with him and his estimate of varieties generally. — J. Wkioht, in Tunes. Mr. Hibberd misleads your readers in various ways. (1) In saying that the Newtown Pippin is " often met with in fine quality of home growth. " A monstrous statement, as no Newtown Pippin has ever been grown in Eng- land with any flavour. (2) That the King of the Pippins is an Apple of fine flavour. He quotes Rae, who wrote over 200 years ago in praise of this fruit, Rae being dead long before Cox's Pippin, the Ribston, the Newtown, or any of the best Apples of Europe or America were raised. Then he quotes Hogg to show that this poor Apple is " one of the richest flavoured early dessert Apples." The care that Dr. Hogg gives to the flavour of Apples may be tested by looking at his book, in which he describes 152 Apples as first-rate, 88 excellent, 0 delicious, 14 one of the best, 10 very good, 4 finest, 1 of great excellence, and in all 278 Apples, to which the highest praise is given ! Now, there are not thirty Apples of the highest class in Britain. (3) "I am very un- happy in my choice of Blenheim and Ribston." A pretty statement to make by anybody who knows anything of fruit culture. The Blen- heim—the best Apjile, take it all round, grown in England — must be rejected because it is slow to bear, but many of the best growers are too wise to follow this advice, as of all other Apples it seems most in demand in Covent Garden when it can be got. (4) The Ribston as "liable to canker." That is no reason for giv- ing it up. English fruit growers and gardeners will, I believe, be able to get over this difficulty with the Ribstc ju. I have planted many trees of Ribston to test how it grows on different stocks, using all the sorts of Apple stocks I could get in Britain. Tliere is a wide difference, the growth being cleaner and harder on the English Paradise and the Doucin and Gofl" (a Kentish Apple) than it is on the Crab, which I think the Ribston hates. There are other stocks I am still more hopeful of, but will have to wait for results. The fate of the Ribston in England is by no means hopeless. A child who eats Apples would reject some of those Mr. Hibberd praises. I am as certain that some Apples are as hurtful to use as that others are wholesome. Flavoxir is not merely a matter gratifying to the taste ; it is a question of health. The Blenheim makes a perfect dish cooked without sugar — the highest test of an Apple. The Blenheim is worth any ten of those Mr. Hibberd mentions — Boston Russet, Golden Reinette, and others of that Uk. — The Editor, " Garden," 37, Southampton Street, Strand, W.C. As I have had some experience in the culture of Apples, and have to keep np a supply nearly all the year round, I should like to add a few remarks to those which appeared in Thb Garden, Jan. 4 (p. 4). Three excellent Apples are named in the ar- ticle in question, viz., Cox's Orange Pippin, Bibston Pippin, and Blenheim Pippin. The last-named Apple, in my estimation, stands next in value to Cox's Orange Pippin, but it requires quite different treatment. The Blenheim Orange succeeds best grafted on the Crab stock and cultivated as a stan- dard. It does not bear freely in a young state, and is not a shapely tree grafted on the Paradise or any other dwarfing stock ; whereas Cox's Orange Pippin succeeds splendidly on the dwarfing stock, forming either a dwarf bush, columnar, or pyramid- formed tree, the fruit always being splendid in quality. I do not quite know whether Ribston Pippin should be placed third ; it is rather uncer- tain, and is the first to show signs of canker, and the fruit is usually irregular in size, not more than half of it being of the first quality. It can be grown either as a standard on the Crab or as a dwarf or pyramid. The nurserymen are blamed for growing too many varieties of Apples. Probably there is a good deal of truth in this, but the trade must grow what they can sell. I have frequently remarked to a large dealer in fruit trees when looking over bis collections, " Why do you grow this, that or the other variety, when there are so many better ? " and have been met with the cogent reply that they are grown because their customers want them, and will not be jiut off with anything else. This mat- ter can only be righted by individual experience in different localities, and there is also much differ- ence in taste. For culture in this district I would ])lace Orange Pippin first on the dwarfing stock, Blenheim next as a standard on the Crab. It likes a deep, rather clayey soil with good drainage. The Ribston Pippin I would also plant if the soil was deep, and would lift the trees and replant them every second year until they had been six years planted, spreading the roots well out near the surface each time. The best early Apple I have is one I received many years ago under the name of Early Strawberry ; the skin is crimson nearly all over when exposed to the sun. Early Margaret, Juneat- ing, and Early Harvest are only fit for boys ; they are too acid for dessert. The Irish Peach, when well grown, is a fairly good early Apple. Kerry Pippin is rather small, and a larger and better Apple, ripening about the same time, named Jefferson, does not bear freely — in fact, it is too shy— so it must give place to the Kerry Pippin, which always bears freely. I think very highly of Mannington's Pearmain, and one of the best-flavoured, very late Apples, though small, is Lodgemore Nonpareil. One does not require many varieties of kitchen Apples. The best early one is Lord Suftield, which is large in size, and mutt be used from the trees or soon after the fruit is gathered. Golden Noble, from a standard on the Crab stock, comes next, followed by Cox's Pomona. Lane's Prince Albert comes in next, and is with us a beautiful, firm fruit, the trees always bearing freely. Blenheim is quite as useful in the kitchen as it is for dessert ; and from Christmas to the end of March, or later, what can equal Wellington (syn., Dumelow i Seedlmg)? The excellent Brownlee's Russet wiu last to the end of May, and one may have the Winter Greening or French Crab until Lord Suffield is ready for use Jan. 11, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 21 Apple trees have been, and are being, planted rather extensively this year, bnt as far as I have seen many of the planters know but little of the varieties adapted to their individual localities. What is of perhaps even more importance is the preparation of the soil. I have known an instance of a farmer ploughing his land, good fruit land, too, about 5 inches or tj inches deep, and planting the trees without any preparation. Were I planting a given space of ground — say 1 acre or 10 acres — I would cultivate the ground 18 inches deep. It is not absolutely necessary to trench it ; the steam culti- vator tears it up almost as well, and does not throw the subsoil on the surface, where it is not wanted. I would purchase young, healthy, two- year-old trees, enough to plant an eighth part of the ground at i feet apart, the remaining portion to be cropped with vegetables until the trees, as they increased in size, could be gradually replanted to fill the entire space.— J. Douglas. " T. W." (Gabdbn, Jan. 4, p. 4) is wrong in supposing that the English public purchase foreign grown fruit and pay more money for it than home- grown goods. I have had a good many years' expe- rience of growing and selling fruit, and during the last seven years have had a better opportunity than most growers of fruit have of forming an opinion of what the public want, for I not only grow it, but I sell it myself direct to the consumers, and no matter how full the fruiterers' shops close by are of imported fruit , I can always get a better price for my own, not in one or two instances, but in all the fruits I grow. In Grapes, Tomatoes, and several other kinds I get more than double the price of the imported fruit, while in the subjects under discussion, viz., Apples and Pears, we can compete with the most favoured nations under the sun, and my experience demonstrates every day that really practical growers can make a better living by fruit growing than by any crops they grow. But if they enter on it with the idea that a good deal of hard work will not be required, or that they will make a fortune in a short time, I would advise them to have nothing to do with it. Many and varied are the obstacles the fruit grower has to contend with, not only as regards a fickle climate and hosts of insect pests, but hindrances designedly put in his way by antiquated laws. But while we are waiting for changes that we trust will be improvements, let us not stand idly looking on, but do the best we can under even adverse circumstances. But to come to the case mentioned by " T. W." of the Gravenstein Apples imported from Denmark. This variety may suit the Danes very well, but it does not suit me, and I would never plant it or re- commend anyone else to do so for profit. It is a handsome Apple, and in a private garden a tree may do very well, as it is best when gathered fresh from the tree. But those who grow for profit should go in for either the largest cooking Apples or dessert kinds of the very best quality. After they have satisfied themselves what sorts they can grow to perfection, they should start with a few sorts and grow them really well, for I never have either very large or really good-flavoured Apples left on hand, let the crop be good or bad. I should hesitate to select kinds for anyone without know- ing all the circumstances by which he was sur- rounded. We can grow many sorts of Apples with- out speck or blemish in either the trees or their fruits, but I do not find Eibstons profitable, al- though I know they are good where they can be grown. The same may be said of Pears. I have not succeeded with Glou Morceau and some other really good sorts. The public have very varied ideas of what is really first-rate in Apples and Pears, for some ask for the crisp, firm-textured Apples, while others expect them to be as melting as a Pear, and to meet these varied tastes as well as to suit different soils and situations, I think, even with the best intentions of fruit-tree producers, it will take some time and patience to produce a brief list that will satisfy both private and market growers of Apples and Pears. — James Gboom, 6ospoii. It is satisfactory to find The Garden add- ing to its columns a new department, "The Or- chard," a subject hitherto apparently neglected. This addition is further proof of the earnest revival of our fruit-growing industry that has sprung up on all sides. It is hoped the practical knowledge thus dis- seminated will reach those interested in the culti- vation of orchards, for it is a fact open to the most indifferent observer that there is no single depart- ment in horticulture displaying such a lamentable deficiency of knowledge necessary for the success- ful cultivation of fruit trees as is to be found in the case of those in possession of our ordinary or- chards (those occupied by market gardeners and private practical gardeners excepted). Now these facts are positively injurious in several ways, not- ably by producing and glutting the markets with inferior and bad quality fruit, giving a notoriously bad name to home-grown fruit generally, with the consequent realisation of ruinous prices. Our fore- fathers have much to answer for by neglecting the planting, pruning and cultivating of young trees ; consequently the majority of our orchards have grown old together and become crowded with useless wood, capable only of producing fruit of very inferior quality. In addition to this, the subject of orchard tree planting and pruning properly has so long been abandoned, that at the present day the simplest elementary knowledge of the treatment of a fruit tree is conspicuous by its absence amongst those labourers that are otherwise engaged in agricultural pursuits. True, a great many trees have lately been " stuck in," but how have the majority been planted ? Simply by digging a hole about 2 feet square or less and about the same depth, stuffing the roots into the bottom, first dipping out the accumulated water, then filling up the hole and finishing off, the tree being left planted about 1 foot deeper than formerly, " for to prevent the wind from blowing it down." This is only one instance of hundreds that have come under one's very eyes, it being part of our business to grow and supply fruit trees to tenant farmers and others for the permanent im- provement of orchards in this and some adjoining counties. The results of our six or seven years' experience have not been very encouraging on the whole, for the diflnculties of prejudice, ignorance, conceit, and obstinacy have to be overcome with a ridiculously conservative class of men ; still we hope that time and perseverance will mend matters. A good deal of unpractical matter on the subject of fruit grow- ing has lately appeared in the Times and other leading newspapers. It will generally be admitted that where in- telligence and skill are brought to bear on a large area of this country, samples of Apples are pro- duced equal, or superior, to anything our colonists or others send us from abroad ; at all events, I have tasted nothing imported to equal good home-grown samples of Blenheim Pippin, Cox's Orange, or Ribston, and I have tried to arrive at an unbiassed judgment. There can be no doubt that dwarf bush trees, highly cultivated, give the handsomest and finest fruit, but we must look to equally well culti- vated standard-grown orchard trees as the sheet anchor by which our toiling millions of dwellers in towns can obtain at such prices as will compete with the foreigner on our own ground such kinds as Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries. We have much to unlearn and very much to learn before that happy state is reached, especially in the matter of proper methods of planting, attention, pruning, dealing with insects, sites, shelter, storing, and marketing, each of which I hope to touch upon in future notes. The best season for planting being over, and the probable risk of having an indifferent selection of good trees at this late period, little need be said at present, but pruning should be persevered in during open and favourable weather, and grafts secured to be laid in by the heels. Old trees, hitherto neglected, resent severe pruning, and should be dealt with cautiously, and I am no advocate for grafting old, sickly. Moss-grown specimens, but younger and healthy trees may be advantageously grafted with superior kinds and so save time. — W. Cbump, Madresfield Court. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Crocus minimus.— It may interest some of your readers to know that C. minimus opened its flowers to-day on my rockery. People were skating near here on the 2nd and 3rd inst.— G. H. Wollaston, 24, Co\- h'je Road, Cliftoit, BridoJ. Odontoglossums at Highbury Park. — Here at the residence of Mr. Larkins these plants are very gay, several kinds being grown in quantity. At present in flower are various forms of O. Pescatorei, O. grande, 0. Alexandra?, and 0. Insleayi, whilst the beautiful O. Eossi majus in great variety forms quite a picture of beauty. — W. H. G. Struthiopteris germanica forced. — The note about Struthiopteris germanica at page .500 re- minds me that last autumn I frequently noticed in the etreets of Vienna masfes of Scolopendrium vulgare and Lastrea FiUx-mas being sold for room decoration. To all appearance these two Ferns stand well the dry air of rooms. — Loui.s Kropatsch, Vienna. Schaueria calycotrieha.— The Schaueria genus is small, comprising only about eight species of Brazilian stove shrubs, of which S. calycotrieha is ono of the best. It is sometimes labelled Justicia calyco- trieha, and is at once recognised by its yellow hairy corolla which gives the plant value at this season of the year. There are several plants in bloom in the stove at Kew. The Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica) is worth a note for the richness of its foliage at this season. 'There is a plant on a south wall at Kew as verdant and vigorous as in fuU summer. The Loquat is quite ornamental enough for a wall, and those who have warm sunny positions might well plant it. It was first made known by Kasmpfer in 1090, who saw it flourishing in Japan. The leaves are vei7 abundant, of the deepest green, large, and downy on the undersides. Blood Flowers (H»manthus) at Kew.— The well-known H. natalensis is now in full bloom in the stove at Kew. It is one of the most striking indoor things of the winter sea.?on. In the Cape house H. albo-maculatus is in beauty and it is a charming flower. It is dwarf, the crowd of filaments like a small brush, white, and tipped with golden-coloured anthers. The leaves are spotted with a creamy colour. It is a plant well worth growing, and amateurs should make a note of it. It was introduced from South Africa in 1878, and natalensis in 1802. A good late Chrysanthemum.— There is no variety more beautiful this year in January than Belle Paule. A plant in tlie greenhouse at Kew is smothered with characteristic flowers, which are pure white with a margin of lilac to the drooping florets that appears more boldly on November blooms. It was shown well at the recent exhibition of the National Chrysanthe- mum Society, and was sentout by Marrouch in 1881. It is the same as Belle Pauline. White Hoop-petticoat Daffodil.— I am send- ing you herewith a pan of Narcissus Bulbocodium, which is in capital condition. I thought you might Uke to figure it. I will send my man round for it to- morrow, or if you wish to keep it longer, kindly let me know. — Thomas S. Ware. *,* Perhaps the most beautiful thing we can see in mid-winter amongst hardy flowers ; the very essence of the most delicately formed white flowers, with yellow anthers. — Ed. Lselia furfuracea.— Although this species has been introduced upwards of fifty years, it has been rare of late, and L. autumnalis has been used in its place under the same name. A plant blooming lately with Mr. Horsman, of Colchester, attracted my attention, its rosy pink flowers being very con- spicuous and delicate, and quite distinct from those of L. autumnalis. This plant has declined in public favour by reason of its supposed difticult culture, but Mr. Horsman appears to grow this and all the Mexican species well, so that we hope to see it again become familiar to all Orchid growers. Cypripedium lo grande.— This is a hand- some form now flowering in Sir Trevor Lawrence's garden at Burf ord Lodge, Dorking. It is very beauti- ful, having the foliage handsomely tessellated with white on a green ground, flowers large, dorsal sepal I white, flushed with rose and veined with rich 22 THE GAEDEN. [Jan. 11, 1890. purple, lower sepals smaller, white, veined with green, petals rosy purple towards the tips, heavily marked with black wart-like spots ; ponch large, rosy purple above, greenish below. It is a plant that appears to enjoy strong heat. C. lo is a cross between C. Argns and C. Lawrenceanum, and was raised by Mr. Cookson. I do not know whether C. lo grande is also one of Mr. Cookson's seedlings. — W. H. G. Mushrooms. — I am sending you a photograph of a bed of Mushrooms that I have had taken here. I think it is an unusual thing to have such a show of Mushrooms in so short a time (five weeks). This is the second bed that I have had this season, the first being equally as productive andquick in coming into bearing as the one represented in the photo- graph.— Joseph Hinton, Pall Court, Teivkesbury. *,* The photograph showed a remarkably fine crop of Mushrooms. — Ed. Chimonanthus fragrans. — This charming hardy shrub has again delighted us with its highly fragrant and pleasantly perfumed flowers ; more- over, our plant seldom fails to ripen a fair quantity of seeds, which are now hanging on the tree. This desirable shrub is found to answer well pruned and treated similar to a Peach tree, as it flowers on the previous year's wood. The seed germinates freely and the young plants grow vigorously, and it can- not be too strongly recommended to lovers of sweetly scented hardy flowers. I should add, our plant grows in a warm snug corner against the wall of my cottage, having a south aspect and sheltered from the east and north. — W. Chump, Uladre.iJieM Court. Hypolepis Bergiana. — This is one of the prettiest of about a dozen species that constitute this widely spread genus. It is of erect habit, from 1 foot to 2 feet high, with fronds a foot long by half as much wide. They are slightly tomen- tose, and of a rich deep green. We have recently noticed it growing in a warm fernery, but in a decidedly unsatisfactory condition. It is much happier when grown in a low temperature. In the cool fernery at Kew and in the temperate house, where the temperature in winter is often down to 40°, it thrives perfectly planted out in sandy loam and peat. In a warm house it is usually infested with thrips. It is a native of South Africa, other species being found in such widely separate regions as Australia and North and South America. Calceolaria fuchsisefolia. — Although hardy in some parts of Kngland, we find in the neigh- bourhood of London that this shrubby species can only be grown safely against a wall. It may be used, however, with advantage as a pot plant, and flowered in the greenhouse. Its bright yellow flowers and deep green. Fuchsia like foliage are very acceptable at this season. Cuttings should be taken in February and struck in sandy loam with a little bottom-heat. By potting them on as they require it into 5-inch pots and keeping them stopped until August, bushy plants of convenient siz3 may be obtained. They should be stood out- side on an ash bed at the beginning of June and freely watered all the summer, occasionally with manure water. This species is a native of Peru, whence it was introduced about ten years ago. Acacia dealbata. — This species may be said to usher in the flowering season of the genus. Although A. platyptera and one or two other less common species are already past, it is from now onwards that the great majority develop their blooms. Where a judicious selection of the numerous available kinds is made, some or other of the Acacias may be had in flower from now up to May. A. dealbata is not only a very beautiful species both in foliage and in bloom, but it is also a very useful one. Along the Riviera, from Hjeres to Mentone, it is very common in the gar- dens. The bright and continuous sunshine of that favoured clime appears to exactly suit it ; the growth is luxuriant, but firm and well ripened. In October the trees — some 30 feet or more high — were comijletely covered with flower-buds, easily enabling one to conceive what a glorious sight they must be when in full bloom. In the temperate house at Kew there are several large specimens now commencing to open their flowers. The finely- divided, silvery foliage admirably sets off the bright yellow flowers. Being a very free grower, it should be well pruned each sjiring ; indeed, it requires a rather lofty house to enable it to assume its best appearance. It may be used with good effect for clothing pillars, especially if it is desired that this should be done in a short time. Late-sown Parsnips. — The majority of calen- dars and seedmen's catalogues invariably advise early sowing of Parsnip seed to ensure a good crop, and undoubtedly it is sound advice. The months of February, March, and the latest of all, April, are mentioned. In the kitchen garden here a bed was sown last February, and on June 8 not a soli- tary plant was to be seen, so I determined to wait no longer, but on this date (June 8) hoed up the weeds, raked them off, and in drills 18 inches apart sowed the bed afresh. Towards the middle of July the seedlings appeared, and some of my friends when looking through the garden smiled at the diminutive plants of Parsnips. To-day (January 6) I have dug from that bed Parsnips 2 feet in length and 1 2 inches in circumference at top, clean and tapering ; in fact, a better bed of Parsnips I never saw. I should not, however, advise such late sow- ing, but record this for those who, like myself, might have a failure in first sowing and think late sowing would be of no use. — A.Locke, Dcmesfield, WaHon- on-Thames. The retirement of Mr. William H. Baxter from the service of the Oxford University, owing to impaired vision, will occasion for him general sym- pathy. Mr. Baxter succeeded to the office of Curator of the Botanic Garden on his father re- linquishing the post more than forty years ago, and he has in addition held the appointment of Superintendent of the University Parks since the time they were first laid out. Although much con- cern has been felt for some time past owing to Mr. Baxter's increased weakness of vision, it was not anticipated that he would so soon be inca- pacitated by his infirmity from the performance of bis duties. It is gratifying to be able to announce that in a convocation of the University authorities it has been decreed to pay annually to Mr. Baxter the sum of sixty pounds. The Botanic Garden Curators and those of the Parks each contribute in addition equal sums of twenty pounds, thus provid- ing him with a well-earned annual pension of £100, which we heartily hope Mr. Baxter will enjoy for many years to come. Iris BornmuUeri. — This most distinct and beautiful little Iris has been in flower in a pot in my greenhouse since the commencement of the new year, and seems to be in every respect a most desirable addition to the earliest blooming of our hardy spring flowers. It is a native of Armenia, where it grows close to the melting snow, and when I received my six bulbs in October I planted them in a clump in a narrow border, near a low wall, and in a position lying well to the sun. Here on the last day of the old year I noticed a bright yellow bud peeping out of the earth without any sign of foliage, but merely protruding from a white sheath or envelope. I immediately had the clump carefully lifted into a pot without separat- ing or disturbing the bulbs, and in order to pro- tect the delicate little flowers from the inclemency of the weather at this time of the year. Placed in the sunny end of a greenhouse, three more flowers soon showed themselves, and all four are now fully open on short stalks of about an inch in height. The flowers are about the size of those of I. reticulata, but the centre or upright petals are much shorter. The colour is a bright clear yellow with a few black spots on the lip. This pretty little plant belongs to the bulbous section of its family, and seems to be closely allied to I. reticulata, but blooms in a smaller state, as my bulbs were only of medium size. — W. E. Gumbleton. Chinese Primroses of to-day.— The Chry- santhemum is not the only flower debased by culti- vators and those who profess to love it. The Chinese Primrose is a victim to the same craze for size that has shorn a beautiful flower of its free- dom, grace, and refinement. Anyone who doubts this would have been convinced at the recent National Chrysanthemum Society's show, where there were twelve specimens of Chinese Primulas which showed that by artificial tricks and assidu- ous attention it is possible to turn the plant into the likeness of a Cauliflower or overgrown Cabbage. They each measured over 2 feet across, one with a puny spike in the middle, surrounded by a mass of coarse leaves that told the old story of high feed- ing and forcing. Hard by were a number of plants in 5-inch pots, and these were full of bright bloom, cheery and pleasing to look at, not offensive from the coarseness of their growth. We should have thought it suflScient to spoil one winter flower by swallowing up its characteristic elegance and beauty in mere size without destroying another flower by the same debasing and silly tricks. Japanese tree monstrosities are held up as things tortured by a system of root and branch strangling that should find no place in English gardens, but those who distort beautiful flowers for the sake of prize money are boldly encouraged. There are few brighter things than Primula sinensis when it is not tampered with and forced into abnormal size by unwholesome condiments. Orchids at Kew.— There are several interest- ing Orchids in flower at Kew besides the com- moner things, as Dendrobinm Wardianum and aureum. Epidendrum Wallisi is in bloom, and though not showy, has some interest. It is com- paratively new, the flowers borne in drooping ra- cemes at the top of tall stems ; the sepals and petals are golden-yellow, and the lip creamy-white, spotted with rich rose-magenta in the centre. Xylobium leontoglossum is blooming freely in a basket. It has Curculigo-like leaves, the flowers produced in a dense spike and of a creamy-white colour, spotted with deep rose. Platyclinis (Den- drochilum) uncata is a graceful flower, its droop- ing racemes of pale green flowers hanging round the pots in a charming way. A rare Masdevallia is M. Mooreana, a New Grenadian species, with a large thick waxy flower, the tails of the sepals greenish- white, the remainder of the bloom rich purple-rose. It is of distinct beauty. Cattleya luteola, recently described, C. Walkeri, and Angraacum eburneum and its variety virens were in fullest beauty. The type is the finest, and compared with it the variety virens is poor. The spikes have a certain grace denied the parent, but the flowers are smaller and greener in colour. Oncidium splendidum and Dendrobium eburneum, synonymous with D. Dra- conis, are two uncommon species. The Oncidium has been often described, and the Dendrobium should find more cultivators. It is a distinct Bur- mese species, the flowers of pure ivory-white, with rich Vermillion markings in the throat of the lip. The alpine house at Kew is now gay with Christmas Koses and a few other hardy winter flowers too frail almost to resist the storms of wind and rain that mark the winter season. The varie- ties of Helleborus niger are well represented, and the plants are in large masses, full of bloom, so that the distinctness of each can be verified. We have never seen the Christmas Roses in such beauty as this season. H. niger major is one of the most beautiful and pure, and also handsome is St. Brigid, a variety easily recognised by its bright self-green flower-stalk and green inside petals, which in such varieties as maximus, another beautiful variety, are tipped with gold. An Italian form is very striking, the large white flowers clustering amongst the deep green leaves. A large pan of angustifolius shows what a noble winter flower it is for a cold house. Also blooming freely are Riverstoni, Mme. Four^ade, and caucasicus, in which the flowers have a tinge of rose. The cold house is brightened by several Crocuses, as the golden yellow aureus and the finely striped Imperati, also the winter Aconite, the charming Bulbocodium nivale, and the frag- rant netted Iris, I. reticulata. Chrysanthemum Mrs. E. W. Clark.— This is of Anierieaii origin. The flower is large, solid, very deep ; the colour a deej) amaranth-purple, the reverse silvery-rose, thus adding much to its attractiveness either as a show flower or for conservatory decoration. Jan. 11, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 23 Flower Garden. A TOWN WINDOW GARDEN. Window gardening in London and our large towns is often poor enough, but, bad as it is, it is to be commended, and a stranger com- ing from cities where this kind of gardening is not practised is often surprised to find what can be done in tlic dirt and dust of London. Window gardening is commended spreading Saxifrage ; and lie is often surprised at the splendid healtli of the Geraniums and bulbous plants in such places. The light is sufficient, and the dry air of the country cot- tages suits many plants perfectly ; in fact, tlie positions for gardening in and about the house, apart altogether from the garden proper, are almost innumerable. We feel sure that our readers, who have window gardens, will feel encouraged when tliey see the pretty results Mr. Smailhas obtained. He has kindly A window garden on the tirst floor of a town house. From a photograph sent by Thomas Smail, IG, High Street, Jedburgh. to the inhaliitants of cities because it is sup- posed tliat it is the only mode of growing plants that they can enjoy. This is true to some extent, but we have often, in wandering in country places, noticed how much better plants do in windows in the country than in to^vns. It is very curious tliat the observer may see growing in windows in various parts of the country plants which lie cannot find anywheie else in the same condition — for example, certain Cacti, and even the little sent us the following notes on tlie engraving herewith given : — I have practised wiadow gardening for nearly a quarter of a century, and during tliat time I have tried a great variety of plants. I live in the centre of a street having a southern exposure. Over my shop front is a cornice or balcony, Id inches broad, stretching the whole length of the house, viz , 28 feet ; on this there is placed soil to a depth of 8 inches, and with a slight declivity each way for drainage. I knew little of flowers or plants at first, and had, conseiiuently, to buy my experience at the expense of many failures. One of my princi- pal dillioulties was to get a proper plant for the outer edge, and, after a number of years' trial, I found A'iolas to be best. They bloom freely and well at the very commencement, and continue in bloom for a long time. Some years ago a sort of blight took possession of the ^'iola all over the south of Scotland. I did not escape this, and found a kind of grub at the roots, which was the cause of the mischief. To save myself, I now plant two or three sprigs of Lobelia between each Viola, and this has a good effect, particularly towards the end of the season. Another ditticnlty was to get a good chnibing plant. I have tried a great variety, but for the last twelve or fourteen years I have had nothing else but Nasturtiums. They are very effec- tive, and every year I use at least two dozen plants which must be struck from cuttings. I often make the plants meet round the tops of my windows, and at the same time have them hanging about 2 yards long over the front of the cornice, waving gracefully, with their beautiful dark red flowers and fine green foliage. The yellow Calceo- laria and red Geranium never fail, and these are planted alternately across the whole length, broken here and there with a larger plant, such as a Li- lium, Fuchsia, or Pelargonium. A few plants of Phlox Drummondi and Sweet Pea have a very fine, irregular effect in breaking the straight line, blend- ing the colours, and making the whole front look effective and well. I have always of late years had some plants of Perilla mixed among the Geraniums and Calceolarias, and its dark foliage tells well. Petunias bloom freely and I never have less than eight planted at proper distances. Last jear I tried lour white-flowered herbaceous plants ; two each of Matricaria inodora, and Achillea serrata H.-pl. The latter bloomed beautifully from the end of June until August ; but when the bloom jussed away, the dust from the street made them very un- sitisfactory. The Matricaria, last year, came into bloom somewhat later, and continued to grow in height and grace, and II ower freely — "a thing of beauty " — till the frost nipped it in October. USEFUL NOTES. I F an early show in the flower garden is required, plants should have attained a considerable size and be thoroughly hardened off by May, and to effect this, early seed-sowing and propagation are essen- tial. This perhaps applies especially to the neces- sary material for furnishing boxes, pans, vases, kc, as these ought always to be filled with plants suffi- ciently large to make an immediate effect. Such things as small specimen Fuchsias, Marguerites, and Heliotropes are handy for the centre of vases, and excellent trailing plants for the edge are the green Tradescantia and the variegated Mesembry- anthemum. Strike cuttings of the latter in small pots, as they can then be transferred to the vases without breaking np the ball. Where boxes or pans are placed against balustrades or railings the latter have to be covered, and to do this i|uickly and effectually there is nothing better than the Canary Creeper, the Japanese Hop, and Coba^a scandens. The two first-named may be sown in the pans, but the seed of the Cobasa wants sowing early in bot- tom heat, and the plants should be thoroughly har- dened off before planting. It is a pity that other varieties of Tropaolum than canariense are not adapted for this work, as soil that is exactly suit- able for the other plants in the boxes is too good for the scarlet Tropaiolum, causing it to develop an un- due amount of foliage. What a good thing for this work would be a scarlet Nasturtium of a similar habit and freedom to N. canariense. For the gene- ral planting of boxes and vases there is nothing much better than a few free-flowering Fuchsias, as Rose of Castile, Annette, and Mme. Cornellisen, and erect and drooping Begonias both to mix with the Fuchsias and for the front row. All the foregoing should receive attention by the end of the present month, which is also a good time to sow seed of Acacia lophantha, Grevillea robusta, the Eucalypti and other foliage plants that are to be used as tall specimens to break the flat surface of the ordinary bedding plants. Nicotiana alliuis is also u ieful and should be sown early, as the stronger the plant at 24 THE GARDEN. [Jaj*. 11, 1890. planting out time the more qaickly does it make a show. Other things of a more bushy nature that are to be employed in a similar manner should also be seen to, as Marguerites, standard Heliotropes, double Ivy-leaf and Lady Plymouth Pelargoniums. The last-mentioned variety will attain large dimen- sions if grown asasingle specimen, and forms apretty break to a carpet of blue Viola or purple or scarlet Verbena, and it is also useful in a mixed bed of scented-leaved Geraniums along with the cut- leaved varieties, Heliotropes, and Aloysia. If, as in many cases, labour is rather scarce, now is a good time to make a careful inspection of the flower garden to see if there is not a chance of making one or two nice beds by the introduction of some hardy things. As an example I may cite a large bed that is already partially furnished with Hy- aointhus candicans, and which will be planted with blocks of the old crimson Clove Carnation, the re- maining space being devoted by-and-by to the dwarfest of the blue Ageratums. An odd border, where the soil is naturally poor and dry, will be planted with clumps of the old double Camomile and Echeveria glauca, using old plants that are not confined to straight lines, but are allowed to increase and flower at will. It is quite unneces- sary to advocate the claims of the tuberous Be- gonias, as they have quite established their reputa- tion as summer bedding plants. I find it a good plan to sow a pinch of seed yearly as early as possible, and if the seedlings are planted out on a warm border in suitable soil, they will not only flower freely, but show sufficient of their individual characteristics to enable a yearly selection to be made and good bulbs provided for another season's display. With much ground to fill, one cannot al- together dispense with the much-abused Pelargo- niums, and the stock must soon be overhauled with a view to make np any losses, and spring-struck if well grown have the merit of keeping short and bushy, and making an immediate show. I suppose most people have their favourite varieties. Person- ally, I cherish most Henri Jacoby, Warrior, West Brighton Gem, Surprise, Amaranth, and Flower of Spring in their respective colours. If an imme- diate effect is required at planting time with very dark foliage, a few dozen small pots may have a seed or two of Dell's Crimson Beet dropped in them about the beginning of March. These make capi- tal little stuff by the middle of May and experience no check from the planting. Where Verbenas do ■well, there are few brighter objects than a bed of mixed sorts which can easily be raised from seed, with the flat surface of the bed broken by occa- sional plants of Grevillea robusta or the tall varie- gated Abutilon. If special colours are required and the constitution of named varieties is not satis- factory, it is advisable to practise the plan advo- cated in the case of the Begonia, i.e., sow a pinch of seed each year and select and perpetuate the necessary colours in plants of vigorous constitu- tion. I have secured a capital purple and a white in this way, but have never found a scarlet seed- ling to approach the well-known variety Hamp- ton Court. In these few notes on preparations for the flower garden, I have purposely refrained from including any subtropicals of rather more difficult culture. Palms, Ficus, Drac^nas, and the more tender carpet plants. B. Burbbll. Claremont. Winter Aconite on Grass.— This bulbous plaut will not succeed in the Grass if there is much Moss. Four years since I planted four dozen bulbs at the foot of a tall Tulip tree. The first two seasons they bloomed well, but since then there have been but few flowers, the plants gradually getting weaker as the Moss covers the Acouites. — S. Phormiums by waterside.— The New Zea- land Flaxes ( Phormium tenax variegata and P. Colensi) are excellent for growing beside water or on the rockery, and being so hardy their leaves do not get disfigured by the weather. I have the variegated form sprmgiug from acarpet of mossy Kockfoil (Saxifraga hypnoides). Division of the roots is a quick way of obtaiuing a stock of suitable plants of Phormium for any position. — S. Primroses.— With plants so robust and full of llo jming crowns as this winter, I am persuaded that if a pit were filled with leaves early in the winter so as to induce a gentle bottom warmth and they were pressed hard down, that if a quantity of strong old plants of Primroses were lifted from the open ground and either planted in 9 inches of soil on the leaves or put into large pots and stood on the leaves, that it would be very easy to have the plants in full bloom at Christmas. I find many which would bloom so if they were not outdoors dur- ing a fairly open season, but white frosts, heavy rains, slugs, and other troubles come and the flowers suffer. Some plants in pots in which they have been all the summer simply stood in a cool frame are blooming prettily, and it is evident that with just a little warmth there would be bloom in abundance. I believe the gentle and moderately moist heat from leaves would be better than that from a small hot-water pipe or two, as this gene- rates spider. If the plants are in pots and stood in a greenhouse their chief trouble is with damp, should wet weather ensue, as the flowers do not thrive in damp, foggy weather, except there is just enough warmth to keep the air from be- coming too moist. It is not so easy to give air in a house as in pits or frames, where the lights tilted top and bottom will allow of a free passage of air. Growers of Violets in frames know the value of that form of ventilation. Strong plants of Primroses root deeply in the open ground, and there- fore if lifted should be got up with considerable care, so as to save the roots from injury. To pre- serve these intact is of more consequence than is the preservation of soil, although some, of course, should be retained. A little extra care in lifting the plants, whether for pots or frame planting, is invariably repaid later. — A. D. HARDY FLORISTS' FLOWERS. The Auricula.— The Auricula aphis thrives amaz- ingly in warm weather, but dislikes to be frozen in the soil ; therefore we allow the plants to be fully exposed to the frost up to the first week in the new year. We had some rather sharp frosts in Decem- ber, the thermometer falling to 20° one night, and 22° on another. I am not sure if the plants like this freezing over, as it kills off the larger outer leaves very rapidly, and may injure some of those forward varieties that have their trusses already formed. An enthusiastic amateur and good culti- vator, the late Mr. Kirke Penson, told me that he never would allow the frost to touch his Auriculas. Next week all the plants will be looked over, and the flowering specimens placed in the Auricula house, where frosts can be excluded by artificial heat. We clean the plants and in certain cases use some rich compost to top-dress with. Abundant supplies of air are admitted, except during frosts. The Auricula more than any flower dislikes a close atmosphere, and if artificial heat is added to this, the flower-stems and leaves are drawn up weakly and look miserable. I have had much conversa- tion with amateurs upon the Auricula, and I find nearly all of them admire the Auricula in some form or other. This is not to be wondered at, because the flowers are so varied, and the plants being so hardy and easily grown, very few take to show Auriculas at the first, one lady remarking that " they might be rare, but certainly they were not beautiful." Such a one greatly admired the bright colours of the alpine Auricula. Another lover of hardy plants thinks the yellow selfs are the most beautiful. Another, after carefully inspecting all the collec- tions at a recent Auricula and Primula exhibition, preferred what are described in the schedule of prizes as " fancies." These comprise a rather odd section, being merely green or grey-edged varieties, without what fanciers term the body or ground col- our. The diversified character of the Auricula is therefore not the least of its claims to the attention of amateurs. The Carnation and Picoteb.— These, up to the end of the old year, have been very satisfac- tory, the seedlings planted out being very promising indeed. Even those planted a year ago have also passed through the alternate frosts and thaws much better than I expected; as a rule, I find these old plants, unless they are layered, do not stand the winter well. The plants in small pots in frames are also in capital condition ; they are kept dry at the roots, and air is at all times freely ad- mitted, the lights being removed during fine weather. The winter-flowering varieties claim at- tention now. I usually begin to propagate them about the middle of January, but those anxious to obtain a large stock of plants need not wait so long. I called upon a Ur^je trade grower a week before Christmas and found he had begun propa- gating by taking off all the small side growths he could obtain. I noticed some of them had shrunk up considerably, but was told that they would re- cover again. This may be, but it is better to keep the leaves and stems quite plump, and there is no difficulty in doing this if the cutting pans are partially covered. I merely take a square of glass and lay it flat over them; the labels support it at the right height above the cuttings, and sufficient moisture is retained about them to prevent their shrinking. They form roots very speedily with just a little bottom-heat. The Dahlia.— We cannot forget these gay denizens of our gardens even at this season of the year. I find that in seasons when we cannot water I).ihlias freely, some of them have scarcely any tul.or.^, and when the time comes to place the plants in boxes or some other convenience, tubers and stems have taken the form of dried touch- wood. This year I planted all those with attenu- ated tubers in pots and placed them in one of the vineries. The others have been placed in a very dry shed where frost cannot get in however sharp it may be, and nothing has been put near the tubers. I have just examined them and find they are all in capital condition, not any mould or decay anywhere. Those with poor tubers in pots have not received any water, but we will have to give them some next week, and by the end of the month the whole of them will be planted in boxes, the latter afterwards being placed over the hot-water pipes in an early vinery. There is not much heat in the pipes, bnt sufficient to start the Dahlias strongly and slowly, so that the earliest cuttings will be taken off about the middle of February. Pot roots are useful ; sometimes a choice or scarce variety might be lost altogether but for a reserve of pot roots. These are obtained from cuttings taken from the plants when the shoots are being thinned out during the summer, but those put in during June or July are the best. Tubers form in 4-inch or 5-inch pots, and they may be kept in a dry cool house, and also dry at the roots until March 1, when they may be started. Shake the tubers out of the pots when the shoots have grown an inch or so, and if two shoots have come up, divide the tubers with a sharp knife, re- potting them again. Thk Hollyhock. — We were so annoyed with the Hollyhock fungus, that I determined to leave our whole stock of plants out in the open borders, in the earnest expectation that if the plants were not killed outright the disease might disappear. We j )ro- pagated none, and those that survived nntil the end of the past autumn had no trace of the disease upon them. They have all been dug up and carefully planted in pots. The plants are producing plenty of growths from the base ; these will be cut off with a heel attached and be carefully set in pots of fine sandy soil. Each cutting ought to be planted in the centre of a 3-inch pot. The cuttings will strike very freely in bottomheat this month in a forcing house. As soon as it is seen that any of them have formed roots, these must be removed, and those that are not rooted treated as before. The ground should be prepared for these as well as for the Dahlias early in the autumn, but if it has not yet been done, take the first chance to do it. Trench about 2 feet deep and put in plenty of rich manure. J. Douglas. Arum Lilies at Christmas. — Much has lioen written lately upon planting versus pot- culture of Ca lias during the summer. For saving of labour, certainly the tormor method is to be recom- mended, and as far as my experience goes, the plant- ing-out system is the best. "When the plants were re- Jan. 11, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 25 potted at tho end of September of last year, tUey were rather rudely lifted from the ground, many of the roots beintf broken. This gave a check to growth, resulting iu the early formation of Hower spatlies rather than leaves, and enabling us to cut a nice lot of blooms for Christmas decoration. — S, Rose Garden. TEA ROSES. The coloured drawings of good Tea Roses which now frequently appear in The Garden will doubtless greatly tend to popularise them, and we may reasonably hope that ere long these beautiful Roses will be grown in hundreds of gardens. Mr. Girdlestone is quite correct in saying that the charge of tenderness brought against Jean Fernet can hardly be sub- stantiated, and this remark applies to many more kinds which are equally as beautiful. As a matter of fact, the plants of Jean Fernet which produced the flowers from which the plate was prepared were only planted the previous November as a bold group in a bed of deep, but heavy loam. They were neither earthed up nor protected in any way, and yet by June were bearing flowers. It may be argued that con- clusions as to hardiness are prematurely drawn, as they embrace so short a period of observation and trial, but other kinds near at hand of equal repute and supposed tenderness have withstood the same test for four winters, and these in the past summer when laden with blossom were striking testimony that the most desirable quality of hardiness is inherent in them, pro- vided we grow them in a way to foster it. There are plenty of warmer gardens and better soils for Tea Rose growing than those in which the flowers of Jean Fernet and of Innocente Pirola, which was figured a fortnight previously, de- veloped. Doubtless ere long these fine Tea Roses wUl be largely used for the permanent adornment of the garden, and when we have them well established in bold groups we shall fully realise their exceeding beauty. These isolated groups of fine Tea Roses can be per- manently placed and the intervening spaces filled in each year with the summer flowers. With large beds that would admit of several groups of Roses it would be very interesting to make each one distinct from the other. For example, one might contain white Tea Roses, another yellow ones, another those em- bracing the diflerent shades of pink and rose. It is now at planting time that we should con- sider and arrange these things. There is no lack of good Tea Roses to carry out the idea. One bed may contain white Tea Roses, such as Edith Gilford, Innocente Pirola, Devoniensis, Mme. Hippolyte Jamain, and Niphetos, whilst The Bride may also be added. Another bed may be filled with creamy and light yellow Teas, such as Mme. Hoste, Jean Fernet, Perle de Lyon, Primrose Dame, Amazone, and Com- tesse de Frigneuse. Marie Van Houtte, Dr. GriU, Mme. de Watteville, and Souvenir de Gabrielle Drevet may occupy another bed, these kinds having flowers somewhat alike in form, with shell-like petals. These examples are merely selected to make the idea clear, and Ije- sides those mentioned all the other really good Tea Roses can be grouped in a similar way, and associated according to form or colour. The beautiful effect of Roses in bold masses has been frequently written upon in the pages of The Gauden, and although groups of any really good Rose can be formed, none are better than the Tea varieties for this arrangement. They are always beautiful in foliage as well as flower, and those who grow them for their own sake and for the eft'ect they produce in the garden can have and enjoy flowers by the hundred, whilst the man who grows for exhibition is pull- ing ofl' scores of buds to force individual blooms to the full pitch of development. Unlike some flowers, the Rose has not been spoilt by exhibit- ing, and probably had it not been for the exhibitions we should not have such a wealth of variety wherewith to adorn our gardens at the present day. A])art from the exhibitions and the good work they have done and are still doing, there is room for work of a diflerent cha- racter in finding out the capabilities of Roses grown in quantity for permanently beautifying the garden throughout the summer and autumn. Too nmch has been made of the supposed ten- derness of some kinds, and, granted that in exceptional gardens it is necessary to protect during severe weather, that is as nothing com- pared to the trouble and expense we have gone to to preserve tenderer plants, the beauty of which when put out in summer could not be compared with that of the Rose. But as we extend our Rose culture and raise strong plants in a hardy way, it wUl be found there is less need for protection. So long as we continue trying to grow all, or even half, the many kinds of Roses in order to have a complete collection, we shall miss the mark and fail to find out their true capabilities. The number of kinds should be proportionate to the size of the garden. Some gardens would have enough in six of the very best Tea Roses, twelve or more plants of each kind ; other gardens might have room for fifty groups. A. EOSE COLOURS. The coloured plate of the lovely Rose in the last number of The Garden for the year just closed doubtless brought a new sensation to not a few rosarians. My first exclamation was, An exquisite example of Jean Dacher. But the accompanjing notes, with the occasional experience of many of u?, prove your artist correct, though it is probably the first time Marie Van Houtte has appeared under the auspices of art in this colour or cha- racter. FqU exposure is probably needed to develop so much more than the normal amount of colour in this delicately tinted Rose. The colour varies according to the month, the sun, and the weather, but the flowers are nearly always beautiful. Sometimes they are almost white, with a faint flush of yellow at the base. In the summer season the side of the Rose next the sun takes a colour as rich as that of the deepest form of Mme. Lambard. On the other side of the Rose it is almost white. It is carious to see the flowers of both shades some- times open together, and there is considerable variety in the intensity of the colour of the buds in The Garden (pp. 600, 601). I would strike the word '• nearly " out of the above high estimate of the beauty of Marie Van Houtte, and add that such sharply divided coloured flowers have been rate in my experience. Rose-tinted single petals or parts of petals as deep as the under one on the upper flower in the plate are common enough, and are unmistakably rich associated with the soft lemon or creamy white of the lighter blooms. Bat I have seldom grown or seen such deeply coloured blooms as your lower one in the plate. This is by no means intended to imply that your artist has over-coloared them, far less to disparage the Rose, but rather to encourage its more extended cultiva- tion in all sorts of out-of-the-way places, and by different methods, in order to add to its usual delicacy of colouring this new and comparatively rare brilliancy. Those who have chiefly grown Marie ^'an Houtte in pots or on walls, especially on shady aspects, may doubt the possibility of suffusing this favour- ite Rose with so much rich colouring. Bat there can no longer be any doubt that this can be done, and it will be something for the many Rose growers of The Garden to attempt to match your plate of Marie ^'an Houtte in colour during the year 1890. Might I also suggest that fan: blooms of Marie Van Houtte from the open air, covering the entire field of colour, from purest white to deepest salmon-rose, might be forwarded to The Garden, accompanied with notes as to culture, site, soil, date, locality, &c., during the coming season. By such means we could hardly fail to acquire more power over the colouring of Marie Van Houtte and other Roses, while the additional interest excited would lead to its more extended cultivation. D. T. F. DECORATIVE ROSES.* It is a curious thing how few people seem to con- sider the value or beauty of a Rose as a grow- ing plant in the garden. Nearly everyone, when supposed to be describing some particular variety of Rose, in reality merely describes an individual blossom. In almost every Rose catalogue it is just the same ; the individual flower is described, and it is only as a cut flower that its beauty is dilated upon. The reason of this may be easy to find, but hardly the justifi- cation. No doubt the Rose has always been the most popular of all flowers for cutting for the decoration of our rooms and houses, a posi- tion from which it is never likely to be deposed, and from this it has probably come about that the value of the Rose is so generally estimated only in its capacity as a cut flower. But this is restricting the Queen of Flowers to a limited monarchy with a vengeance, and it is high time that her right to reign out of doors should be better recognised, and that more attention should be paid to the capabilities of the Rose as a decorative garden plant. One sees sometimes ofi'ered in catalogues col- lections of (say) 100 Rose trees in as many va- rieties ; and such a miscellaneous assortment planted all together would certainly not be likely to make an effective Rose bed, nor at all a decorative display ; and one is tempted to think that it is from Rose growing of this kind that those who declare Roses to be always in- eft'ective and untidy, and deserving only of cul- tivation in the kitchen garden to supply cut flowers for the house, must have gathered their experience. A great source of failure in making a deco- rative display with Roses has, undoubtedly, been the frequent and perverse employment for particular purposes of varieties utterly un- auited thereto. For instance, the number of Roses really suitable for cultivation as stan- dards is comparatively small, yet people persist in attempting to grow all varieties in this form ; and when, instead of handsome trees, an army of gawky scarecrows is the result, the unlucky Roses are blamed. Similarly, efleotive Rose pillars can only be made with a limited number of sorts, amongst which few of the ordinary Hybrid Perpetuals are included ; yet who has not seen innumerable attempts made with varieties of this class, of which the outcome has been, after unremitting pains on the part of the misguided cultivator, the production of a soli- tary shoot a foot or two taller than the rest of the plant, which is carefully tied to the stake, and looks as though it were longing to hide behind the great Larch post it so vainly essays to cover ,' Again, it has often been urged that although Roses are gay enough just while they are in full bloom, that afterwards, for the rest of the season, they are dull and unsightly. Apart from this being only half true, and becoming * Paper read at the National Rose Conference at Chiswick, July 2, 1889, by Mr. T. W. (iirdlestone, F.L.S. 26 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 11, 1890. annually less so, as more and more thoroughly perpetual Roses are raised, if the objection were to be admitted in the case of Roses, it must apply equally to a great majority of her- baceous and bulbous plants ; and our gardens, hardly emancipated from the dreary tyranny of "bedding-out," must again relapse into the inane monotony of ribbon borders and carpet beds, in the latter of which especially the en- forced primness of the poor little plants, that are never allowed to grow as they please or to have a leaf awry, is as unnatural as children that never have grubby fingers or rumpled collars. It is said that there are some people so oddly constituted as to dislike children, and so also there must presumably be some folk whose sympathies are so strangely arranged as to cause them to love carpet-bedding ; such are not likely to admit the claim of Rosea to be considered as decorative plants ; but it may be hoped that those who are disposed to under- rate the attractions of the royal Rose in the garden will eventually be found to be in a small and constantly decreasing minority, for it can hardly be doubted that loyalty to the Queen of Flowers in her every capacity will outlive the mere fashion of transferring the patterns of the drawing-room carpet to the flower garden. There are four ways in which Roses may be employed to make a very decorative effect as growing plants in the garden, namely, in beds of dwarf plants ; as large isolated bushes or real tree standards ; for the formation of Rose pillars ; and as climbers, whether on walls or over arches, &c. In planting dwarf Roses in beds for the pur- pose of making an effective display, the great thing to avoid is the employment of too many varieties. If a bed of seventy-two dwarf Rose trees is to be planted, half a dozen varieties is ample, the twelve plants of each variety being grouped all together ; and these varieties should be selected for their freedom of growth, abund- ance and continuity of flowering, handsome foliage, as little liable to mildew as may be ; and, most important of all, their sturdy habit and abUity to carry their flowers erect, pendu- lous blooms being necessarily ineffective on the plant. The flowers, moreover, should be sub- stantial and of good quality, capable of endur- ing sunshine or shower without either being burnt or getting all their petals stuck together. It is also important that the plants of a par- ticular Rose should be planted at the distance apart best suited to the habit of that variety. In old days it was commonly recommended to plant Rosea 3 feet apart each way ; and, no doubt, when the vigorous hybrid Chinas were in vogue, this amount of space was quite neces- sary. But there are now so many modern va- rieties, such as the races sprung from Victor Verdier and Baroness Rothschild, which, al- though vigorous enough in the sense of possess- ing abundant vitality, make such compact sturdy growth, that to make the best display they should not be planted much more than a foot apart. Of course, some of the modern Roses are as vigoious and strong in growth as many of the old sorts, and these will need to be planted at greater distances apart; but if the distance be carefully proportioned to the habit of the variety, and a dozen or more plants of each variety employed be grouped together, there will be little fear of the display of bloom being considered ineffective, or of Rose beds so planted not being decorative. The cultivation for several years of almost every variety of Rose at all generally grown in this country has resulted in the selection of the following kinds as the best suited for planting in beds, in groups or masses, for the purpose of producing a decorative display in the garden. Varieties of irltich the jilanis should stand about 1 foot apart : Baroness Rothschild, White Baroness, Merveille de Lyon, Marquise de Castellane, Earl of Pembroke, Alphonse Soupert, Marie Finger, Caroline Swailes, Mrs. Baker, Hippolyte Jamain, Captain Christy, Mme. Bois, Marguerite de Roman. Varieties ofvhirh the jilants sho^dd stand about li feet apart : Cannes la Coquette, a flesh- coloured seedling from La France, and one of the most charming and useful of Roses, whether for massing, for exhibition, or for cut flowers ; Alfred K. Williams, Comtesse de Paris (LSveque, 1882), a very pretty rose colour, immensely free and perpetual ; Viscountess Folkestone, Annie Laxton, Duchesse de Vallombrosa, Pride of Waltham, Kronprinzessin Victoria, Laurette Messimy, a China or Hybrid Tea of the most vivid and lovely rose colour ; Heinrich Schul- theis, Lady Helen Stewart, Suzanne-Marie Rodocanachi, Henri Ledechaux, Sophie Fropot, and of summer Roses, Rosa Mundi, the brightest and best worth growing of all the striped Roses, and commonly, though wrongly, called York and Lancaster, and the Scotch Roses in variety. Varieties of irliieh flie plants shoidd steotd about 2 feet apart : Mme. Gabriel Luizet, Charles Lefebvre, Anna Alexieff, Prefet Limbourg, a most useful dark crimson Rose of great freedom and effect ; Boule de Neige, Mme. Nachury, La Prance, Ulrich Brunner, .Jules Margottin, and his lovely daughter Violette Bouyer, freest and most charming of white Hybrid Perpetuals ; John Hopper, Julie Touvais, a very early and most distinct and attractive Rose, far too little cultivated, and Gloire Lyonnaise, a very beau- tiful Rose, both in plant and flower, and making always a most striking group. It will probably have been noticed that with half a dozen exceptions all the Roses best adapted for massing to make an effective dis- play in the garden are also among the best Roses for exhibition, and the more they are cultivated as if with a view to producing exhibi- tion blooms, the more decorative they will be. The system of pegging down is not recom- mended, the only Roses with which its employ- ment has been attended with complete success being some of the very vigorous Mosses, such as Lanei, Captain Ingram, &c. The plants should be fairly hard pruned, liberally cultivated, and vigorously disbudded ; then there will be a magnificent and eft'ective display of bloom. If the beds are large enough to admit of it, they may be very well margined or fronted with groups of the ever-blooming miniature Polyantha Roses, of which the best are Mig- nonette and Gloire des Polyanthas, pinks ; Anne Marie de Montravel and Ma Paquerette, whites ; and Perle d'Or and Golden Fairy, orange-yellow. The best Tea-scented Roses for massing — that is to say, the varieties that can most certainly be relied on to be efl'eotive in any season — are Marie Van Houtte, Mme. Lambard, Hon. Edith Gifford, Comtesse de Panisse, a very handsome and reliable Tea that has been unaccountably overlooked by exhibitors ; Anna Olivier, Mme. Charles, Mme. Chedane Guinoisseau, loveliest of yellow buds ; Mme. Hoste, most free and constant, a great acquisition, which may also be said of Ethel Brownlow ; Narcisse, Souvenir de Gabrielle Drevet, Princesse de Sagan, a rich velvety maroon- crimson Tea, lacking size and fulness for exhibition, but ever-blooming and most efiective in the garden ; R. indica (Lowe), a lovely single red Tea, of which a group of dwait plants presents a charming ap- pearance throughout the entire season ; and Jean Ducher, when the weather is not wet and cold. To obtain large isolated bushes and genuine tree standards, the one thing necessary is the employment of suitable varieties. Of these the best are Anna Alexieff, Mme. Alfred Carriere, Prefet Limbourg, Marie Van Houtte, Mme. Perny, Mme. Gabriel Luizet, Glory of Ches- hunt, Mme. Nachury, Jules ISIargottin ; and of summer - flowering Roses, Persian Yellow, Harrisoni, White Provence, Chenedolle, Celes- tial, a Rose similar to, but of far greater beauty than. Maiden's Blush, and the double marbled Sweet Brier ; of these, the first ten varieties named make especially fine large-headed stan- dards. A pillar Rose, so-called, and a Rose pillar worthy of the name, are not of necessity synonymous. The requirements in a variety to make a good Rose pillar are, that it should be very vigorous, but not too long and rampant a climber, very free-flowering — perpetual if possible — with handsome and abundant foli- age, and a hardy constitution. The Roses that make the finest pillars will generally do so from a single plant, but of some varieties it is fre- quently a good plan to employ two or even three plants at the base of each post for the better formation of a first-rate Rose pillar. The best Roses for pillars are also the best for covering fences of from 4 feet to 8 feet high, and for either purpose, were it only an atitumnal, Mme. Plantier would be an ideal variety. As it is, although it flowers but once a year, it makes a more beautiful pillar than almost any other Rose, for its invariable profusion of bloom and the pure whiteness of its flowers, its hardi- ness and vigorous bushy habit, present all the qualities best adapted to the formation of a perfect Rose pillar with the sole exception of not being perpetual. In addition to Mme. Plantier, the following varieties are also first- rate Roses for the purpose : Ophirie, a delight- ful coppery orange Noisette, making a pUlar of extreme beauty ; Mme. Alfred CarrieTe, whose large creamy white flowers have a most delicious fragrance ; Bouquet d'Or, and Reve d'Or, both with the additional charm of conspicuously beautiful foliage ; Climbing Captain Christy, the freest and most valuable of all these "climbing" sports; Max Singer, a useful hybrid multiflora with well-formed cherry-red flowers of good size continuously produced in trusses of from three to seven blooms, in spite of the curious fact that it was described when sent out by the raiser Lacharme as " non- perpetual, and producing solitary flowers ; " Bardou Job, an improved Gloire des Roao- manes, with very large semi-double deep crim- son flowers with darker shades ; the summer Roses, Blairi No. 2, and Souvenir de Pierre Dupuy, and Rosa macrantha, one of the most beautiful of all the single Roses. On climbing Roses grown against high walls and houses, or over arches of considerable span, there is not much to be said, except to urge once more the employment only of varieties suited to the purpose and to the position they are to fill. It is not wise, for the sole reason that there ia a blank wall or the bare side of a house, to plant against it Mareohal Niel or the tender Climbing Devoniensis, without any re- gard to aspect, soil, or climate. There are situations in abundance where such Roses will flourish in all their beauty, but to consider it necessary to attempt to grow Marechal Niel in circumstances under which only an ineffective apology for a plant can be produced, merely Jan. 11, 1890. J THE GARDEN. 27 because it has the reputation of being, when at its best, the most superb yellow Rose as well as the grandest climber in the world, is absurd, and involves a waste of time and energy which, if only applied to the cultivation of Roses adapted to less favourable surroundings, would at once result in a decorative display capable of affording the keenest pleasure. In fact, it is the case, heretical as it may be to state it, that in spite of the unsurpassed beauty of perfect individual flowers of Maruchal Niel, it is less decorative as a climber, even when fairly well grown, than many of the following Roses : William Allen Richardson, Reine Marie Hen- riette, Reine Olga de Wurtemberg, a magnifi- cent climber, very perpetual, producing bright Roses are now so well known that it is not necessary to do more than to insist in passing on the exceeding beauty of the white form ; but among those far too rarely seen are the Aus- trian Briers, Rosa lutea, the yellowest Rose in the world, and its wonderful scarlet variety, Rosa punicea ; Rosa rubrifolia, with its red leaves, red stems, red everything, including its immense clusters of heps in autumn ; Rosa lucida, also beautiful in fruit at the end of the season, as in flower and glossy leafage during the summer ; Rosa bracteata, the very distinct Macartney Rose ; Rosa damascena, the crim- son damask ; Rosa Beggeriana, the starry white Rose from Afghanistan, ever-blooming, and producing the most brilliant little heps Cissus discolor. crimson flowers, and deserving of very extended cultivation ; Mme. Berard, Bouquet d'Or, EraUie Dupuy, Aimee Vibert, Celine Porestier, Lamarque, Princesse de Nassau (Musk), Mme. Trifle, and the summer Roses, Fortune's Yel- low, Felicite-Perpetue, Laure Davoust, Splen- dens, Ruga, The Garland, Alice (iray. Flora, Claire Jacquier, the single Rosa multiflora (syn., polyantha, figured as a climber in the Gar(len^:rs' Clivonielc for November 20, 1887), Rosa mult, grandiflora, and the deliciously fra- grant Rosa Brunonis (syn. , moschata, Criipin). Mention has been made of some of the most decorative single Roses in the selections given of the best varieties for certain purposes : but there are a few others which ought to be in- cluded in every Rose garden. The rugosa imaginable ; and last, but not least, a garden variety classed as a hybrid Sweet Brier under the name of Hebe's Lip, beautiful exceedingly, having large substantial creamy white petals with a Picotee edge of purple. Nearly all these single Roses only require to be put into the ground and left to themselves to thrive and produce their myriad flowers and fruits, so that for the amount of time and attention that they claim they are very remunerative decoration. The subject of decorative Roses then may be briefly summed up as follows : — Only employ for particular purposes varieties well adapted thereto. In the case of groups or masses of dwarf Roses in beds — (1) Plant many plants of few varieties ; (2) Cultivate as highly, prune, disbud, and keep clear from insects, &c., as if every bloom were to be required for exhibi- tion. Then a display of bloom will ensue, well de- serving of the epithet decorative, and likely to be maintained more or less throughout the season. Stove and Greenhouse. AN OLD FINE-FOLIAGED PLANT. (CISSDS DISCOLOR.) This fine old stove climbing plant is of very easy culture, for cuttings root freely in the spring and early summer months, and when rooted they grow away quickly. It is very beautiful when employed as a roof-climber in a warm, moist part of the stove, but more parti- cularly if the position is such that the long flexible branches can be allowed to grow in their own way. Besides this, it may be grown on a trellis, either in the shape of a large speci- men or trained around three or four Hazel sticks in a 5-inch pot. By this latter means pretty little plants, which are extremely useful for decoration, may be quickly obtained. As to compost, good rich open soil, either peat or loam, and some sharp silver sand and decayed stable manure will answer well, provided it is not retentive of moisture. The pots should be well drained, so that the large quantity of water the plants need when in active growth can pass freely off. Thrips and aphides will attack this plant, but the daily use of the syringe will usually be found suflicient to keep them in check, and should bug or scale affect them, sponging must be had recourse to. Laurustinus under glass. — Among the more hardy plants that can be used for maintaining a display of flowers in the greenhouse or conserva- tory during the winter months must be included the Laurustinus, which flowers naturally at this season of the year ; therefore with a little protec- tion its neat blossoms may be had throughout the whole of the winter. When required for this purpose the plants may be either dug up early in the autumn and carefully potted, or grown alto- gether in pots or tubs. Where the first-mentioned plan is adopted, only plants well furnished with flower-buds should be chosen, and where they are confined altogether in pots care should be taken during the summer that they do not suffer from want of water. Occasional applications of liquid manure at that time are also of great service, as they encourage a stout and sturdy habit of growth, which is very favourable towards the production of blossoms. The common Laurustinus may be em- ployed for the purpose, but there is also a variety whose flowers being much whiter than those of the normal type, are consequently usually pre- ferred. A few years ago this form was imported from the Continent in considerable numbers in the shape of little standards and pyramids bristling with flower-buds, but it is at the present time not nearly so often met with.— H. P. Deedalacanthus macrophyllus.— The genus Diedalacanthus is nearly allied to the Eranthe- mums; indeed, the species here noticed was dis- tributed a few years ago under the name of Eran- themnm macrophyllum. Like many of its alUes, it is a very pretty flowering plant, whose value in this respect is still further increased by the fact that it blooms about the end of the year. D. macrophyllus is a free-growing subject of a half shrubby character, with rather pale, oblong, lan- ceolate leaves and a great profusion of light blue blossoms. If stopped once or twice when young it branches very freely, and at this season every shoot is terminated by a broad, open, pyramidal raceme of blossoms, which are borne in such pro- 28 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 11, 1890. fusion that the upper part of the plant is quite a mass of pale blue. The individual blooms, which are about an inch in diameter, have the lower petal or lip of a much deeper colour than the rest of the flower. A few cuttings should be struck in the spring and grown on freely afterwards, when by winter they will have formed good-sized speci- mens that for a month or more will be very showy. While on the subject of Eranthemums and their allies a word may well be spared the beautiful E. pulchellum, or nervosum, that blooms just a little later than the first-named. This is an old and generally well-known species, whose flowers are of a beautiful shade of rich bright blue, and though the individual blooms do not last long, a succes- sion is kept up for a considerable time. Like most of its class, it is of easy culture, the principal con- sideration being not to keep it too hot during the summer, nor on any account to allow it to suffer from want of water, as the foliage is liable to be attacked by red spider, which greatly disfigures the leaves and thereby destroys the beauty of the plant. This is the oldest of all the Eranthemums, having been introduced as long ago as the latter part of the last century. — T. CYRTANTHUS LUTESCENS AND McKENI. Except in the colour of their flowers, these two species of Cyrtanthus greatly resemble each other, and both are very desirable bulbous plants, for the flowers are beautiful and freely produced during the winter months. They will thrive in an ordinary greenhouse without any special care and attention, for with the treatment given to a Pelargonium these two pretty Cape bulbs will both grow and flower well. C. lutescens was intro- duced about 1831), and C. McKeni 32 years after ; but at the present day this last is a far commoner plant than the other, though neither of them are grown to the extent that their merits deserve. An amateur with only one glass structure should grow these two species of Cyrtanthus, as they are very beautiful and would attract attention from their uncommon appearance when the more generally cultivated plants would be passed over. C. McKeni forms a bulb about the size of that of a large Snowdrop, and produces long. Grass-like, evergreen leaves, while the flower-spike reaches a height of 9 inches to a foot, and is terminated by a cluster of flowers. These individually are tube- shaped, about 2 inches long, of a curved outline, and of an ivory white tint and agreeably scented. To this species C. lutescens forms a very desirable companion, as the flowers of this are of a lovely clear yellow colour. Like many other bulbous plants, Cyrtanthi should not be repotted oftener than is absolutely necessary, as they will continue to flower with great freedom when the bulbs are so tightly packed together as to almost lift each other out of the soil. The same peculiarity may be noticed in the case of the Belladonna Lily, Vallota purpurea, and Nerines, all of which will flower more freely if allowed to remain undisturbed at the roots foryears. These Cyrtanthi make very effective little specimens in pots 5 inches or ('■ inches in diameter, or they may be grown on into much larger masses, as the bulbs increase rapidly. In the case of large clumps, deep pans are more convenient than pots for growing them in, as the roots do not descend to any great depth. Thorough drainage is essential, and another important item is to select a potting compost that will remain in good con- dition for years if needed. It should consist principally of sandy loam, lightened if necessary with clean silver sand and some thoroughly decayed manure. In potting, the bulbs are just covered with the soil, which should be pressed down firmly. Where some closely packed masses exist and it is desired to split them up to increase the stock, a very good time of the year to carry this out is during the spring months, as by then they will nearly have finished flowering. If the roots are matted closely together, the better plan is to wash off the soil by holding the ball beneath a tap or in some similar position, as tbey are not so much injured as if torn bodily apart. Should they be potted up into a number of pots, the bulbs must be sorted into different sizes before repotting, as some of the smaller ones will not have attained flowering size, and it is better to keep them to- gether. At all seasons the soil should be kept fairly moist, for no drying oS is necessary, the foliage being strictly evergreen. Insect pests do not trouble the Cyrtanthus. Both lutescens and McKeni flower during the winter months — indeed the blooming season of C. McKeni is spread over a lengthened period, for where there are clumps or masses of it a succession of blooms is often kept up from November till April or May. A cold frame, just as a protection from very heavy rains, will suit them perfectly in the summer, and at other times a light position in the greenhouse should be given them. There are several other species of Cyr- tanthi announced in various publications, but the only other kind I have met with in recent years is C. obliquus, a totally different plant from the two before mentioned. The bulbs of this are very large, while the leaves are thick in texture and peculiarly twisted, so as to well merit the specific name of obliquus. They are of rather a peculiar greyish green tint. The flower-stems, which are straight and sturdy, and from 1 foot to IS inches in height, bear on their summit a dense umbel of from eight to ten tubular flowers, in shape some- thing like those of Imantophyllum cyrtanthiflorum. The blooms are each about 3 inches long, of an orange-red colour, margined with green. This flowers in the early summer months, but it cannot be depended upon to bloom so regularly as the two species previously mentioned. H. P. which will keep up a succession for some time. It also produces seeds in quantity, which soon ger- minate.— H. P. Poinsettias seeding'. — When the plants dur- ing the flowering period are not subjected to a low temperature, but are kept in the house where they developed their showy heads, a considerable number of the flowers will set, and in the course of a few weeks pods of ripe seed will be the result. This seed if sown in heat soon after it naturally leaves the pods will germinate almost as quickly and surely as will seeds of Ricinus. The seedlings being duly placed in small pots, and from these shifted into ti-inch pots, the general treatment also being much the same as accorded to cutting- raised plants, they will become sufKciently strong to produce fine floral heads the same season, their only fault, if such it can be termed, being a rather long stem. None of the seedlings I have yet raised are very distinct from the type, but in some instances the floral leaves are somewhat broader and possess rather more substance. — W. I. Erica colorans. — Among winter-flowering Heaths must be included this species, which is very pretty, free-flowering, and not at all fastidious in its cultural requirements. It is somewhat in the way of the more generally-grown Winter Heath (Erica hyemalis), but the flowers are rather longer and more slender, while even in the bud state the unexpanded part of the corolla is much larger than the tube. The flowers are packed somewhat thickly together on the upper part of the long, slender shoots, their colour being when first ex- panded pure white, which gradually changes to blush while they finally die off a much deeper col- our. Whether on the plant or in a cut state, the flowers of this Heath are very pretty, and in both cases they retain their beauty a considerable time. — H. P. Kuellia solitaria. — This, like most of its class, is a free-growing plant of rather an erect habit, and clothed with pale green oblong-shaped leaves, their undersides being reddish. On the upper part of the leaf there is a lighter stripe extending for a little distance on either side of the mid-rib. The flowers which are larger than some others of the same genus, have a funnel-shaped tube, which is whitish, the remainder of the blossom being pale lilac-purple, but the tint seems to vary considerably. It will grow and flower throughout the autumn and winter months, provided it is kept in the coolest end of the stove or in some similar spot. It strikes readily enough from cuttings, which CYCLAMEN PERSICUM. It is often asserted that the Cyclamen cannot be grown satisfactorily among a miscellaneous lot of plants, or without special treatment. However advisable it may be to grow them wholly in a sepa- rate house or frame, and I grant that it would be best so, yet the plant which accompanies this proves that with suitable soil and a temperature in which they can be kept growing without a check, good results may be obtained without any special ad- vantages in the way of house room. The plant sent is a fair example of a lot that have been grown from seed sown on February 5 last, not quite eleven months ago, and raised in an early vinery. They were potted off singly into deep 2iinch pots when each had made a couple of leaves, and were then placed on a bed of leaves and manure which bad been formed in a newly-planted Muscat house to help the Vines along. Here they were placed close together at least 10 feet from the glass and shaded from the bright sunshine until they were put into the pots in which they are now flowering. After this potting they were replaced on the bed, but were distributed about wherever room could be found among Fuchsias, Celosias, Coleuses, &c , and stayed here for most of the summer, though the house was kept at high pressure all the time. When the flower-buds began to show, the plants were removed to a frame which is slightly heated with hot water when the weather is frosty. The plant sent being one of the earliest to flower it has been about a fortnight in a drawing-room, but looks little the worse for it. The soil in which these plants were grown was half loam and a quarter each of leaf mould and well mellowed cow manure, using enough silver sand to keep the whole fairly open. To the richness of the soil used I attribute in a great measure their well-doing, as they must be grown on quickly and strongly to produce good results in so short a time. If the plants are not equal in size and for number of flowers to those one sees at shows, they are far superior to these latter for decorations, for the small pots used give them an advantage over large specimens in large pots, while when good plants can be grown in a year, tbey can be treated as annuals and only the very best saved for producing seed. Perhaps the old strain would not have stood the treatment given without becoming drawn, but the giant strain is a great improvement on the old kind for dwarfness and sturdiness, and will bear being a long way from the glass in a forcing temperature without becoming spoiled. I wish I could say that the flowers are as sweet as those of the old strain, but I am afraid they are not quite equal in this respect, though the flowers of fome few plants are very sweet, so we may be able to retain the scent with careful selection. Not even half the plants of the old kind were sweet scented A point that should not be lost sight of is to be sure and start the season with good and new seed. All our best plants were grown from home-saved seed. Seed bought in and treated exactly the same was two months longer in germinating, so that valuable time was lost and the plants are not now half the size of the others. J. C. Tallack. Lh'erinere. *^* A well-grown specimen, the flowers large, pure white and freely produced. — Ed. SBORT NOTES.— STOTE AND OREENBOUSE. The big Camellia at The DeU.— I made a note of this grand plant not long since in The Garden. When I saw it the other day, I found it enclosed in a portable greenhouse with a temporary hoUer and piping Jixed to assist the plaut to bloom early. There must just now he thousands of buds upon the bush. I should think there is not a liuer one in the kingdom. — A. Yellow liinum. — As a winter blooming plant for should be grown on freely during the summer, when ] ordinary greenhouse decoration where just a little by autumn they will be fine flowering specimens, warmth is given, the orange-yellow-flowered ever- Jan. li, 1890.] THE GARDEN 29 green Linum(L.trigynnm)I saw in profuse bloom at The Dell the other day can hardly be excelled. It is one of those things so seldom met with, that to many persons it comes as a new plant. A small group iu one of the cool houses where Cyclamens and Piimulas were growing presented a marked fea- ture. Such a lovely plant propagated by means of tops put into a little warmth in the spring deserves wide cultivation, especially as it blooms when flowers are so scarce. The plants ranged from 12 inches to 15 inches in height. — A. D. ACACIAS FOR THE CONSERVATORY. At present these beautiful conservatory shrubs seem to be at a discount. They disappeared for the most part with many other old-fashioned beautiful plants, natives of Australia and the Cape, when foliage plants became the rage. But their day will certainly come again, and those who are engaged in re-arranging their conservatories might with ad- vantage plant a few of the best Acacias, or they may be easily cultivated in pots. A good idea may be formed of their decorative value by a visit to the temperate house at Kew any time from this on through the spring. When Acacias are planted out in the borders of a roomy conservatory as I have seen them in the past, from December or January, when the broad-winged species (Acacia platyptera) comes into blossom, until April, there may be a continuous succession of these beautiful yellow-flowered shrubs in bloom. It is true the flowers are, for the most part, small, but compensa- tion for this is offered by their numbers, for the young shoots are thickly studded with blossoms along their whole length. The growth and foliage of the whole family have a light, elegant appear- ance, so that the plants are ornamental even when there are no flowers upon them. The cone or py- ramid is the most agreeable shape for them, and by a judicious use of the pruning knife when the plants go out of blossom they may be very easily kept in shape. I have: had handsome standards of several varieties. Acacia pubescens, for instance, makes a very elegant specimen when trained to a single stem with a large drooping head. I have, on the other hand, seen beautiful plants of verticil- lata, floribunda, and armata planted in a border in a light conservatory, 12 feet high, perfect cones, and such plants when in blossom are wonderfully attractive. Acacia Drummondi is bushy in habit and dwarf, and the flowers are elongated instead of round, and are freely produced in winter. A. grandis is a vigorous grower and has a neat and elegant habit of growth. From its freedom of growth this spe- cies makes a good wall plant, and it has a pretty effect trained over an arch in the consenatory. A. dealbata, A. oliifolia elegans, and A. Riceana all submit readily to training, and might with advan- tage be used in many large conservatories to im- part grace and beauty where now is ugliness. Among other useful kinds are pulcheUa and longi- folia, and the green Wattle of Australia (Acacia lophantha) is not without its usefulness where ra- pidity of growth is desired. All the species grow freely in loam and leaf-mould or peat, and may be easily propagated from cuttings of the half- ripened young shoots, or by seeds sown in heat in spring. When grown in pots they should be well drained, and the compost rammed in firmly around the balls in potting. The potted plants do better in the open air from the middle of July to the end of September. E. H. Asparagus decumbens. — This is a very pretty species of Asparagus, and though not likely to ever become so popular as A. plumosus or A. tenuissimus, it is still worthy of a note, being so totally different from either of the two above men- tioned. A. decumbens is a deciduous species, that goes to rest in the summer, and starts again into growth in the autumn. It is seen at its best when the plant is raised in such a manner that the long pendulous shoots can hang down for 5 feet or G feet, which they will do in the case of a vigorous specimen, and as numerous branches are produced. each thickly clothed with foliage, the entire plant forms quite a screen of peculiar soft green drapery, and in this stage it is very different from any other Asparagus that I am acquainted with. The small white flowers are borne in great profusion, and are often succeeded by comparatively large berries, that add quite another feature. After remaining bright and fresh tiU the summer this Asparagus then dies off, when it should be kept somewhat drier till growth recommences in the autumn. It is usually grown in pots, as by this method of cul- ture its drooping character can be seen to the best advantage. It is easily increased by division or by seeds, which often ripen and germinate freely. Like some of the more generally grown species, this Asparagus is a native of South Africa, from whence it was introduced towards the close of the last century. — T. Poinsettias, late -flowering.— If Poinsettias are not transferred when at their best to much cooler houses than they were grown in, they keep fresh nearly or quite as long, added to which some, in fact the greater portion, of the strongest plants will become sufficiently firm to produce smaller heads or bracts down the stems. When the prin- cipal heads are either cut or drop naturally, the plants should still be kept in a rather dry heat and moderately well supplied with water, but directly the buds or side heads of bloom show, a little liquid manure may be given with advantage. These late blooms, it such they may be termed, frequently attain a good size and are particularly valuable for table and vase decoration. — I. Trees and Shrubs. THE AUSTRIAN PINE. (PINUS AUSTEIACA.) On the chalk cliffs along the sea-coast near Dover this handsome and hardiest of all Pines grows with the greatest freedom, and soon imparts a warm and furnished appearance to the bare and treeless dis- tricts in which it is planted. There can be no question that for the purposes of shelter and warmth the Austrian Pine has no equal amongst the many species that are commonly cultivated in this country, as it is by far the hardiest and most ac- commodating of any, while it grows very rapidly and may be transplanted successfully. It has a habit quite unlike that of any other of its family, this rendering it of great value for planting on bare, wind-swept ground whether near the sea or at great elevations. The Corsican (P. Laricio) is nearly as good, but being of a less bushy habit of growth and not nearly so stiff, it is not quite so well adapted for similarly exposed sites. As a timber producer it is, however, far superior to the Austrian, being more inclined to throw its whole vigour into the production of a straight and stout stem than in the formation of many weighty branches, the latter being an evil to which the Austrian is very sus- ceptible, particularly when the trees are grown far apart. The Austrian Pine seems to be very suitable for seaside planting, for down even to high-water mark and where fully exposed to the salt-laden wind it grows with perfect freedom, and soon outrivals in height and bulk of stem and branches all other trees with which it is planted. For giving shelter it is therefore a boon to have such a Pine as the Austrian, and one that starts away with such freedom in almost any soil in which it is planted. Chalk and limestone have special in- ducements for the Austrian Pine, but it is also quite at home on gravel, loam, or decayed vege- table soil, and in the sheltered valley or on the exposed hillside. All along the southern English coast wherever one sees a bright, healthy-looking tree in the maritime garden, that tree on close inspection usually turns out to be a Black Austrian Pine. I was casually examining a strip of woodland that had been planted on Lord Grenville's property at St. Margaret's Bay, and could not help noticing how well the Austrian Pine had done in compa- rison with any of the other trees used, and none but such as are usually recommended for the seaside had been planted. The strip of wood in question is on the elevated chalky cliffs close to the sea, and where the trees must be constantly subjected to the stiff breeze and ozone of the atmosphere. The Austrian Pine must have plenty of room for the perfect development of both root and branch. A. D. Webstbe. Scarlet-berried Ivy. — I am not aware of this Ivy having fruited in England, but perhaps some reader of The Garden has seen it. It is of Con- tinental origin, and was distributed four or five years ago under the name of Hedera Helix auran- tiaca, the berries being described as much the col- our of those of the Mountain Ash. Judging by some specimens here, it seems to be a rather weak grower, the branches being slender, while the leaves, which are by no means large, are of a whitish tinge which follows the course of the principal veins, thus giving to the foliage a greyish hue. — T. Raphiolepis salicifolia. — This species of In- dian Hawthorn flowers during the winter months, and at that time a specimen of it is very pretty in the cool greenhouse. It is an evergreen shrub with rather slender branches, clothed with glossy lanceo- late leaves, while the flowers are a good deal like those of the Hawthorn and borne in terminal pani- cles. The individual blooms are of a five-pointed star shape and pure white with a reddish centre. It is an uncommon plant, the best known of the genus being R. ovata, or japonica, which forms a short branching bush, and is quite hardy in this country. The leaves are roundish, very dark green, and of a leathery texture, while the flowers are larger and more massive than those above described, but in other particulars they are much the same. Both the above can be readily propagated by means of cuttings, which will stand for some time, but can usually be depended upon to root. — T. The Wasliington Thorn (Crataegus cordata). — This is an uncommon species of Thorn, yet it was introduced more than 150 years ago and possesses many desirable qualities. It usually forms a rather close compact-headed small tree, clothed with broadly ovate or triangular, somewhat heart-shaped leaves of a deep shining green colour, that die off in the autumn, tinged with deep yellow and red. As a flowering tree it merits special attention, for it is about the latest of all the Thorns to bloom, being, indeed, later than the Tansy-leaved Thorn (C. tana- cetifolia), which is usually regarded as the most tardy of all. The flowers are rather large, pure white in colour, and borne in good-sized clusters. The flowers are succeeded by berries, which ripen usually in October and are of a very bright red col- our, but they are smaller than those of many other species, being, as a matter of fact, no larger than those of the common Hawthorn. As a single specimen on a small lawn the Washington Thorn is seen to great advantage. It is a native of Canada to Virginia, and there reaches a height of 15 feet to 25 feet.— T. The Crimean Pine (Pinns Pallasiana). — The true Pines are classed into groups according to the number of leaves in a sheath, this having for its near allies P. sylvestris, austriaca, montana, Pinea, Pinaster, and other lesser known kinds, as well as P. Laricio, of which the Crimean Pine is by some considered a variety. P. Pallasiana is readily distinguished from P. Laricio by the longer leaves and cones, as well as by the greater number of branches, thus forming a tree of totally different outline. It is moderately quick-growing, and when standing singly forms a bluntly pyramidal-shaped specimen, branched nearly, if not quite, to the ground, all the branches having an upward ten- dency, this character, however, being less pro- nounced towards the lower part of the plant. The leaves are very numerous and dark green, which, taken in conjunction with its free-branching habit, render a thriving specimen of this Fir very notice- able by reason of the dense blackish mass of foliage. Though greatly superior to P. Laricio in beauty, P. Pallasiana is not nearly so valuable as a timber 30 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 11, 1890. t ree, the branches being far too large and numer- oas, as those near the base of the specimen are oftimes nearly as large as the main trunk. It is a native of the Crimea, and is therefore perfectly hardy in this country, where it has been cultivated since IT.Kl This Pine will succeed even in poor sandy soil, but, as a matter of course, more liberal treatment gives the best results. I once saw a fine specimen standing out singly, yet at a short dis- tance from a group of the Himalayan P. excelsa, against the light-coloured background of which the Crimean species stood out very conspicuously. — T. Garrya elliptica. — I never saw this ever- green climbing plant so full of its catkin-like flowers as at the present time. We have growing over the porch at the entrance to the mansion here two plants, one on each side, which are quite 15 feet high, and both are completely smothered with flowers. The plants have never been closely pruned or trained ; therefore they have quite an informal appearance. The aspect is north-west, and the plants have been planted seven or eight years. They have been treated liberally in the matter of good soil and abundance of water both at the roots and over the branches, hence their vigorous appearance. — E. M. duercus Lucombeana.— At the present time by far the most interesting trees in the park are several fine specimens of Lucombe's Oak. They were not conspicuous in summer, when the giant common Oaks and Chestnuts were in full leaf, but these have long since been bare and apparently lifeless, whilst Lucombe's Oak stands out well. The true Evergreen Oak is a formal tree compared with the common Oak, and Lucombe's Oak is typical of the common Oak in form and habit of growth, has the same characteristic shape of leaves, but retains them fresh and green throughout the winter. One tree in the park is about 60 feet high, and has a stem girthing 9 feet. It stands in the foreground of a group of fine old common Oaks, and is especially beautiful when the wind blows, as then the silvery under-surface of the leaves is seen. There are several other specimens in the park, but none are so well placed as this one. It is very desirable that distinct forms of native trees, such as Lucombe's and other Oaks, should be planted in the park, as when they grow up they have not that sombre or foreign aspect produced by Wellingtonias and other poor Conifers — A. H. American Mountain Tea (Gaultheria prc- cumbens). — At this time, when bright bits of col- our in the garden are few and far between, this little plant will attract attention by reason of its showy red berries, which, nestling among the bronzed Box-like leaves, form a very pleasing win- ter feature. It is in all respects a pretty little undershrub, and succeeds best in a fairly moist shady part of the rockwork where the soil is prin- cipally composed of peat, for in dry or sunny spots it is useless to expect it to thrive. The little white bell-shaped flowers are borne during the summer months. A second species is the better-known G. Shallon, a vigorous growing, yet procumbent shrub, one of the very best subjects as a carpet plant to the larger Ericacea;, as it will (provided the soil is fairly moist and composed principally of vege- table matter) hold its own under somewhat dis- advantageous conditions. The spikes of urn-shaped, pinkish blossoms are borne in great profusion, and the plint is in this stage very attractive. The berries are purple and much appreciated by game, and on that account it is often used as a covert plant. In America it is said to grow in the shade of close Pine forests where hardly anything else will thrive.— H. P. Two good 'Willows.— Any tree or shrub that helps to brighten up the dreary aspect of many of our winter landscapes has a special claim to notice, and is of great value in the hands of a good planter. Salix vitellina, the Yellow-barked Willow, and S. cardinalis, the Cardinal Willow, are especially valu- able, because it is now that they show their great charm, and where they have been planted in quantity lighten up the whole scene with a rich glow of bright, warm colour. Upon the margins of lakes, streams, and woodland plantations, or in any suitable moist position where Willows do well, the two Willows named should be extensively grown. Of the two, the Cardinal Willow is the most effective, the bark upon the shoots being of quite a glowing red colour. It is very pretty in contrast with the common Dogwood. The bark of S. vitellina is of a clear yellow colour, and has a pretty effect if backed up by some dark evergreen tree. The greatest effect is produced by annually cutting the Willows down, as they then make a quantity of long vigorous shoots which take on a high colour in winter. Moreover, as these two Willows are about the toughest of any, their shoots are very useful for tying, and young shoots will tie into a tight knot without breaking. But cutting down should only be practised where dense, dwarf, spreading masses of colour are required, as both of these Willows are highly ornamental if allowed to develop into a tree. "The Cardinal Willow will make a tree from 30 feet to 40 feet in height, and such a tree in a good position makes a very telling feature, for if the colour is hardly as brilliant as upon the cut-back plants, it is still bright, especially when the sun shines upon it. The Yellow-barked Willow, too, as a tree grows into a fair-sized speci- men, 25 feet to 30 feet high and nearly as much through. Generally, the tree branches into several rather stout limbs, but from the smaller branches hanggreatclustersof pendulousyellowtwigs. Adark background of evergreen trees brings out its fullest effect. Considering that these Willows are so cheap and so easily propagated, it is surprising how scantily they have been planted. Even a few cuttings stuck in by the water's edge would soon grow into good trees. — A. H. is damp. I recollect some years ago making a pur- chase of fifty seedlings, most likely raised in Bel- gium, for the winter furnishing of two beds. They were 18 inches in height, clean, healthy, and well rooted, and, notwithstanding a very mild winter, every one of them died from damp. This result did not surprise me, as I bad been growing and seeding the Aralia from the time it was intro- duced, and having at Eastnor plants which had stood 34" of frost, I knew the loss was entirely due to my own fault. One plant here, exposed to all weathers from the day it was put out in 1863, is now quite 16 feet in diameter, and although the ivory-like flower-stems get cut by autumn frosts it never loses a leaf. This plant was properly pre- pared by being kept in a large pot until thoroughly rootbound. It was turned out in the spring in stiff, calcareous loam, and with Bambusa Metake, Quercus glabra. Ilex latifolia, I. Cunninghami, and Maples as companions, it braves all weathers. Seedlings raised at Eastnor and kept in pots until the stems were hard and woody having proved equally hardy. I think I may venture to say this beautiful Aralia may be trusted anywhere south of the Trent if properly prepared. — W. C. Cryptomerla elegans.— I never saw this shrub 80 iinely tinged with colour as this year. The recent sh.arp frosts coniiiiff upon a thoroughly developed growth are prokalily the cause of the intense colouring of the shrub. It is one of the most handsome of ever- green trees, either for planting on the Grass or in the mixed shrubbery, all that is required in its treat- ment being three things— shelter from east winds, strong soil, and not overcrowding by other subjects, hut giving it space in a sunny spot to develop. Too much manure is bad for it, as it produces sappy growth, which is liable to premature decay. — E. M. Ribes Lobbi Though the blossoms of this Ribes are not equal to those of R. speciosum, R. aurenm, or R. sanguineum, they are still very pretty, and, what is more, now when the whole of the plants are devoid of foliage, it is the most interesting of the whole genus, owing to the strong shoots being thickly beset with spines. This Ribes is a native of the north-western part of America, and is often met with under the name of R. subvestitum. It forms a stout free growing bush, and when established often pushes up a number of very strong shoots near the base of the specimen It ison these particular shoots that the spiny character is the most pronounced. The flower- ing season of this Ribes is during the month of May, when the rather pretty, but singular blossoms are borne in great profusion. In shape they some- what resemble small Fuchsia blooms, the sepals being chocolate tipped with green, while the petals are white, marked with pink at their base.— T. Aralia Sieboldi.— There prevails a doubt as to the hardiness of this beautiful Japanese shrub, but this, I think, may be set .aside if those who would succeed go the right way with the preparation of the plants. But why prepare them ? some may say ; either a plant is hardy or it is not ; it it will not stand in my garden it is of no use to me. Very good ; the Oak, the Ash, and hundreds of plants started in the open air on British soil will stand our sharpest winters, but seeds of this Aralia, ripened in a warmer climate than our own, or, if in this country, certainly under glass, not only germinate very freely, but make soft, succulent stems the thickness of one's finger in a very short time. Plant theseseedlings out without preparation, and although protected from frost the majority of them will succumb the first winter, especially if the situation Garden Flora. PLATE 735. RAMONDIAS. (with a coloured plate of k. tyrenaica ALBA.*) This charming genus, which a few years ago contained only one species, R. pyrenaica, in cultivation, now includes, besides the beautiful variety, a plate of which we have the pleasure of presenting to our readers with the present issue, R. Heldreichi, R. serbica, and R. Natalioe ; the two last, we think found in Ser- via, are new additions, and both are said to be far superior to the type. Considering the genus as it is best known to us in R pyrenaica, it has long since thoroughly established itself in our gardens as a general favourite, and wherever found doing well is invariably pointed out with pride by the cultivator as one of bis choicest pets. Although it can hardly be said to be as striking as many of the fine Gentians and highly coloured alpine Primroses, it has a dis- tinct and characteristic habit quite its own, and, moreover, never fails to produce an abundance of bloom rarely equalled by the majority of the alpines now in cultivation. In its native country, the Pyrenean Alps, the type may be found luxuriating in almost every conceivable position on the Moss-grown stones so peculiar to the high Alps, the leaves barely above the water mark of the mountain streams, and liable at every flood to be entirely deluged. We also see it on almost perpendicular cliti's, inaccessible even to the experienced mountaineer, and on the damp flats or broad shelves, taking its chance in the oftimes severe struggle for existence among the dense closely cropped herbage or turf. The most curious positions, ho\Yever, and to the inexperienced the least desirable, are those perjiendicular rocks fully exposed to the broiling sun, and although not so robust, the specimens are equally as healthy and, if anything, more free blooming. If the tourist could trace these roots he would soon reveal the secret hidden by the rocks ; he would find the small fibres of the Ramondia in search of moisture in the cool fissures several feet from the surface. Moisture appears to be one of the essentials to success in growing the Ramondia, and our very best cultivators always tell us never to allow the plants to become * From a drawing gent by 0. Forster, Leheiihof, Austria. Lithographed aud printed by Guillaume Severcyne. 1^ ,^^^.-.^,M^^ , .. ■ . ,. , :„^-- _-. . —g.^/ . , ifi ..».ir, i ■iii-fr'-'in -iViiryi HHi- Jan. 1], 1890.] THE GARDEN. 31 dry, winter or summer. The conditions briefly described above are not impossible of imitation in gardens, as a large colony on the new rockery at Kew proves. The large boulders or stones are built into the bank slightly inclined downwards from the face, a good layer of turfy peat and well-decayed leaf-soil beingplaced on the top, when another stone may be built in, and so on. It is a very good plan if the plants are large enough to buUd them in as the work proceeds. The position where Ramondias are said to do best is where they receive no sun between six in the morning and four in the afternoon. This could be easily managed on ordinary rockeries. R. pyrenaica is Verbascum Myconi of the old botanists, and Blew Beare'seares, with Borage leaves of Parkinson — a curious name, but not inapplicable to this Interesting plant. The Ramondias have been found, like many of the Gesneriatls, to be easily increased by leaves, and when properly notched and layered not only do they form abundance of roots, but also young plants wherever the notch has healed over. We have, however, hitherto preferred raising them from seed The seedlings undoubtedly grow slowly, but in three or four years at the outside they will be found ready for planting out if liberally treated. The seed should be sown as soon as gathered, the tiny seedlings being pricked off as soon as they are ready to handle. R. rvRENAiCA VAR. ALBA, as may be seen in the accompanying coloured illustration, is one of the most beauti- ful of our hardy alpines. This variety, we believe, first originated with Mr. Otto Forster, Lehenhof, Austria. He says the flowers are nearly pure white when opening, and it is only on their fading that they assume a rose or pink tinge. We believe the coloured draw- ing to be a fair representation of the living plant, and it so, we have here one of the finest acfjuisitions to our list of alpines of recent years. It blooms more freely, is more robust in habit than the type, and is alto- gether a more desirable subject for rockworks. We have been several times taken in with the white Ra- mondia, many of the plants offered being pale washy forms, inferior in every way to the old R. pyrenaica, and all this has helped to throw some doubt on the very existence of a real white variety. The plate sets our minil, at any rate, at rest. R. Natalia, represented as a new species, is said to be by far the most abundant bloomer of the genus. We have never seen it in flower, and, judging from the tiny plants imported, we should say, if anything, it is a mere geographical form of R. pyrenaica. R. SEKBICA, though included in Nyman's "Con- spectus Floiri', Europ.-e," the author in a foot-note confesses his failure to distinguish it from R. pyre- naica. Pane", the author of the name, says flowers five, rarely fuur, the corolla concave anil widely snbcampannlate, but most stress is laid on the fact that the anthers, instead of being yellow, as in pyrenaica, are blue. This is not apparent in dried specimens, and we must take the author's state- ment for granted until our specimens flower. The Continental growers say it is a luxuriant grower and an abundant bloomer. R. Heldreichi has at last been successfully introduced by the in- defatigable Herr Max Leichtlin, of Baden-Baden, anil we hope we will not have to remain long in doubt as to its merits. D. K. dessert and cookiag varieties. Trellis is 9 feet high and on the south side I have planted cordon Peats. — COKIION. Fruit Garden. HOUSING AND ARRANGING POT FRUIT TREES. Where fruits of various kinds are grown in pots and forced separately or together, January will be busily devoted to putting the trees and houses in order, as nothing can be gained by allowing a single tree to remain in the open air after the middle of the month. Very early- flowering varieties, indeed, of Plums and Cherries sometimes get quite forward enough to tempt bud-eating birds when sharp fro.st sets in after mild weather ; and this being our position at the present moment, whilst birds are more numerous than ever, those who have not placed the whole of their stock under glass will do well to protect with nets, as a pair of bullfinches wiU spoil a good tree in a few minutes. Autumn pruning, no longer confined to wall trees, having been extended to trees in pots, knife work will be extremely light, but, little or much, each tree should be dressed over with the knife and carefully washed with a solution of Gishurst compound before it is taken into the house. The pots also, espe- Cordon Apple trees. ^I intend planting about .3(11) vertical cordon Apples, 1 font apart, against an open trellis facing north. Please advise in your nest issue the best sorts for that aspect for successional crops ot Ramondia pyrenaica in Derbyshire. ciaUy the apertures, should be examined, and it worms have been at work, not only must the crocks be cleansed, but steps must be taken for driving them out of their moist fattening strong hold, for as well may a man try to gather Figs from Thorns as to obtain fruit from trees which are waterlogged. The usual draught for worms in pots is a copious supply of clear limewater, and as this cannot be made too strong for the roots of stone fruit trees, the attendant need not be afraid of doing mischief, always provideil a saturated condition is not continued. Akrancement. — When trees are housed, im- mediate arrangement is not absolutely neces- sary, as a retarding process may have to be followed up for a long time, and those who are obliged to continue then- work may wish to put their houses in order when bad weather drives them in from the open walls. The work, nevertheless, must be got through, and, con- sidering that top-dressing may be delayed, the greatest gain will fall to those who finish off as they proceed. Late Pears, Plums, Cherries, and Apricots, whose only help may be solar heat in light, well-ventilated houses, will be kept back as carefully as though they were growing against open walls, but this fact will not interfere with the proper elevation of each pot and the introduction of a neat sod of turf grass-side downwards, for the twofold purpose of securing feeding fibres from the crock roots, and filtering liquid on its way down to the borders. Top-dressing, as a matter of course, will have been made up some weeks ago, and, con- sidering that it improves with age, it should be kept dry and well covered with fresh stable ma- nure in an open shed. The materials used as stimulants in a solid form are numerous, and some not over agreeable to a certain sense when shut up in a close house, but the whole of these I think may be avoided, as sound calcareous loam, bone-dust, old dry cow manure or spit manure, and a dash of soot make a top dressing rich enough for any fruit which is not over- cropped. The trees, I may say, should be tho- roughly moist, but not pasty-wet, when the top- dressing is applied, and the latter being dry, it may be well rammed. A small quantity only should be given at one time, and, provided the pots are already full, provision may be made for future supplies, also for copious watering by the introduction of artificial rims made of zinc or lead, and from 2 inches to 4 inches in depth. If these are made to fit quite tight inside the rims of the pots, a thin coating of the top- dressing may be given once a week when the trees are in growth, and having plenty of room for water, the full complement can be given without loss or delay — no unimportant matter where hundreds of pot trees sometimes require water twice a day. Perforated pot.s. — Where pyramidal Pears, one of our most useful cold house fruits, become tall and require plunging, the better to secure head- room, as well as to economise labour in watering, they should be grown in pots with several holes an inch across perforated in their sides. These pots are a little more expensive, costing price and a half, but they soon pay, as trees do so well in them, especially when plunged in moist, well-drained loam and the feeders have broken their prison bonds. All liquid food, as a matter of course, passes through the pots, for no matter how numerous the outside roots, failure is certain when the balls become dry. When the fruit is swelling freely, the borders may be well mulched and soaked, and although each hole sends forth its whorl of feeders, the whole of them may be cut ofl' when the wood is ripe. Perforated pots have been used by Orchid growers for a great number of years, and the time is coming when all culti- vators of fruit will adopt them, particularly where they can be plunged. Fruit Grower. Kooting Strawberry runners on turf. — At page 58G of The Garden, Dec. 21, iss'.t, an article on the above subject appeared and stated that the practice was "absurd as well as misleading." I have often rooted Strawberry runners on old sods with the greatest success and with a minimum of labour. Where it is ditflcult to procure pots and where little assistance can be had to fill them and water the plants, I can, from experience, recommend sods ; but instead of cutting them into squares of 3 inches take sods 12 or more inches square. Lay the grass side downwards, and it there is a little old Mushroom manure at hand it may be spread over the sods with advantage. On this may be pegged the runners from the lines of plants on each side of the sods, and from 12 to 15 runners can be easily rooted on a square foot of sod. When well rooted the sods can be taken to the plot of ground where it is intended to make the new plan- tation, and instead of cutting them up it is better to pull the Bod carefully to pieces between every 32 THE GARDEN [Jan. 11, 1890. plant. Plant carefully with trowel and press Bonum rarely fails, and the fruits are both large firmly, and water, W. 0., Foia, Cork. Success will certainly result. FRUIT TREKS FOR COOL SITES. It is doubtful if high walls with a northern aspect are generally utilised to their full extent. This applies not merely to garden walls, but also to various blank spaces on outbuildings, stables, coach-houses, and dwelling-houses of various de- scriptions. Judging from what is to be met with in different places, the owners or those responsible for what is done in the way of planting fruit trees would appear to think the Morello Cherry the only fruit that can be profitably grown in cool positions, but, valuable as this Cherry is and admirably adapted as it proves for the purpose, there are yet other fruits that might well be tried in similar positions. Foremost among the latter must be placed a few varieties of Pears, and which merit a cool position if only for the sake of prolonging their season. What is also worthy of considera- tion is the fact that in some seasons, and with which must be included that of IS.Sn, Pear trees growing against cool walls actually produce heavier and better crops of fruit than in various parts of the country since, and in Sir Trevor's own garden the old species appears to be again sporting, one plant having a tiroad bar of deep maroon-purple on the inner half of the lateral sepals, which appears to be the commencement of a digression which may come to be equally as beautiful as the form now under consideration. D. Cooksonianum is a bold and strong-growing plant, difl'ering in no perceptible manner from the typical form. Its flowers, however, are very diil'erent, the lower half of the sepals being heavily blotched with deep maroon-purple the same as the base of the lip, forming, as it were, three lips, and if the true lip was open and spread out, as is the case with D. Wardianum and some others, instead of being rolled round, as in the type, a wonderful display of colour would result therefrom. It still remains a rare plant in the Orchid world, but I would advise all Orchid growers to add it to their coUectious if an opportunity occurs. It requires the com- mon treatment of the species, although whilst it remains a scarce and dear plant, everyone possessing it will hold it somewhat more choice. W. H. GoWER. Masdevallias at Forest Hill. — The pure white M. tovarensis is just now very fine in Mr. Laing's estabUshment, whilst forms of M. ignea and M. Veitchi were conspicuous and pleasing amongst a host of paler coloured blooms of different species. M. polysticta is another species now flowering, but although extremely beautiful, it is not by any means remarkable for its colour, which is white thickly spotted with dull purple. It also differs from the previously named kinds in having its flowers borne in a raceme. It is now about fifteen years since it first flowered in this country, but neither it nor its near relative, M. Melanopus, have become so popular as they deserve. Cattleya Percivaliana — Some beautiful flowers ot this are now open in Sir Trevor Law- rence's garden, and a coloured figure of this species was given in The Garden, June 8, Vol. XXXV., p. 532. The flowers now open at Burford Lodge are far superior to those illustrated, so that we may look forward to this plant becoming one of the very best of the labiata section to which it belongs. I am still under the impression that this species has never been grown sufliciently strong to be seen at its best. The plant has only been in the country eight years, and therefore cannot have been seen to perfection. — W. Odontoglossum blandum {G. IK.).— This is the name ot the flower sent, but 1 have seen varie- ties more richly spotted. It is one of the species which has been ruthlessly destroyed in its native country, through being taken in numbers and sent home time after time, only to arrive in this country in a dead and rotten condition. It was e.xpected to remain very rare for a long time, but either a fresh locality has been found, or it has sprung up in the original spot very rapidly, for the plant has 36 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 11, 1890. been sent to Europe in fair condition, and now it can be found in most of the principal Orcbid collec- tions in this country. It grows at a considerable elevation in the forests of New Grenada, amongst Moss in a very moist climate, and therefore under cultivation it requires thorough drainage. — G. Cattleya Trianse. — The first flower of this species which we have observed this season was open at Christmas in Mr. Measures' garden. The Woodlands, Streatham, so that in this collection it comes in with C. Percivaliana, and thus aids in making a display at this time of the year. Vanda Amesiana. — This charming Vanda has been flowering for a long time in Mr. Measures' collection at Cambridge Lodge, Camberwell. It was also flowering freely in Sir Trevor Lawrence's gar- den, but in these as well as others I observe it is just the same. The plant, although stronger in growth, and rooting more freely than the original plant, is much paler in its flowers ; indeed so much so that the varietal name of Candida would fit it well. It is a very pretty and delicate flower, but of course does not satisfy those who purchased it, as they expected to get the bright-coloured form figured in the " Orchid Album," and which went at once to America to enrich the collection of Mr. Ames. Calantlies.— I have heard it frequently re- marked that these plants do not come of a good colour in London, and I have very often observed how poor in colour the flowers of C. Veitchi are, but, j udging by the number of spikes and the bril- liancy in colour of the flowers now to be seen in Mr. Larkins' garden, Highbury New Park, there can be no London fog in that district, the C. Veitchi and C. vestita oculata rubra being exceptionally good. These plants are kept in a warm house, and I think that a little brisk heat assists in brightening flowers at this season. I have had proof this season that many plants are ruined entirely, never opening their blooms, through being kept too cool. — G. Dendrobium 'Wardianum.— Mr. J. Broome, Llandudno, sends flowers of this fine species. Two flowers are of the brightest and most beautiful form of this plant which I have seen ; the sepals and petals are clear white saving about an inch at the tips, which are heavily marked with intense deep purple ; the lip also is large, rich deep orange surrounded with a zone of white tipped with purple, and bearing a pair of eye-like, deep maroon blotches at the base, the latter smaller than usual. These flowers are said to be the result of a cross between D. Wardianum and D. crassinode, but I cannot see the slightest trace, and must pronounce them to be those of a very fine form of D. Wardianum. Mr. Broome says I shall find the colours good, through the [jlants being grown in the pure air. This is of the greatest consequence, and no one knows the value of it better than Mr. Broome, for when he first began Orchid growing his plants were in a vile atmosphere in the neighbourhood of Manchester, but still air does not aifect colours so much as the health of the plants, for I have seen some of the most highly coloured varieties produced in the neighbourhood of Manchester and Sheffield. A flower of another form of Wardianum comes with these. This is very pale, and therefore the air has not put colour into this, but a good variety un- doubtedly does come finer in colour through being grown in good fresh and pure air. — W. H. G. Odontoglossum Alexandree This beautiful species, I have noted during the past year, has appeared to depart from its usual time of flowering more than I have ever seen it, and I now observe that it comes into bloom in great profusion at Christmas. I have seen excellent spikes of flowers at Mr. Sander's at St. Albans, at the nurseries of Messrs. Williams and Son at HoUoway, and many other places, but I was more struck with the profu- sion of spikes showing, and with open flowers, just two days before Christmas at Cheam Park, the residence of Mr. Jacomb, than with any collection I have seen. This Odontoglossum is grown here in a very light house; indeed in a lighter and brighter situation than I have heretofore seen it grown. Mr. May, who has charge of this collection, tells me that in this place the plants caused him great trouble at first, even with heavy shading. At last he found that in this position he could not give air during the middle of the day, but had to maintain a great deal of moisture with the shading and ex- clude air. This has been attended with much success, as the plants are in robust health and the foliage rich deep green, and they are sending up dozens of spikes. I trust this hint may be taken by those similarly situated.— W. H. G. CALANTHES. Thbse useful winter-blooming Orchids should be more grown. They are easily managed, and with care could be grown in many small houses that are devoted to less interesting subjects. I have grown them also on shelves temporarily suspended from the back walls of frames in which Cucumbers are grown through the summer. They have done well by being careful when damping down not to syringe the Calanthes. Many who possess a w^rm house could grow them to perfection if once taken in hand and treated liberally while the plants are making their growth. Around the metropolis fogs are very injurious to the flowers, but by gradually getting the pseudo-bulbs started a little earlier and having a lot of strong spikes 3 feet to 4 feet in length, a few blooms are not so missed as when the spikes are small. During foggy sun- less days the loss of colour is a serious drawback that I cannot give a remedy for, and can only ad- vise to have the house as dry as possible during fogs and a little extra warmth. During mild weather air should be admitted daily at the top ventilators and the temperature during the day may range from G5° to 75° with air; t;0° to 65° will be suflicient for the night. I prefer to have as little heat as possible, so as to preserve the flowers. Calanthes are most valuable for decorations during the dull season, and if kept quite dry, they may be used for halls and corridors, and which would kill other Orchids. I do not know of any plant that is more beautiful for large vases intermixed with Ferns or Grevillea robusta, using Calan- the vestita for the outside, or the variety rubro- oculata. I have used these plants for this purpose for three or four weeks, and they have not taken much harm ; indeed, they have made large bulbs the following season. When used for this purpose, the blooms should be well advanced, or the flowers will not be so fine as if they open in the rooms, and only a little water will be required to keep the plants in good condition. To get large blooms and spikes several feet long, it is best to use good yellow loam in rough pieces each as large as an egg, and to have it stacked a few months before using if possible. If the loam is good, even if it is fresh, the plants soon take to it. Also mix with it a small portion of decayed cow manure and some quarter-inch bones and char- coal. Very little peat is required ; in fact the plants want a stronger material to make their next season's bulbs with. Very few crooks are used for drainage, just a few large ones, over which are placed half-inch bones. Large pieces of the compost are put over these, and the bulbs placed well down in the pots, leaving plenty of room for water. As Calanthes are gross feeders, they should never be raised up above the rim of the pot and no room left for watering. I place the plants on shelves when potted, giving them a good watering. This lasts for some time, as it is neces- sary to water carefully till the new roots get to the sides of the pots. I place two or three large bulbs in an 8-inch pot and five smaller ones in the same size, taking care to preserve the young tender roots when doing so. "The plants when full of roots are liberally fed with liquid manure till the new growths are made, then less is given them till the spikes are advancing into bloom, when only clear water is used. A little clear soot water once a month'in the growing season is very beneficial. The plants should get a good rest in a temperature of ()0°, and to economise space, shake them out of the old soil and place the bulbs singly in pans in silver sand or Cocoa fibre, only giving water to keep the pseudo-bulbs plump. I find that it is best not to delay potting when once new growth has com- menced, also to grow them in a moist, warm house in a temperature of 70° to 80° while in active growth, and never to syringe overhead, but to always keep the foliage dry to prevent spotting. Si/07i Souse. Q. Wythbs. Odontoglossum Alexandrae (crispum) {H. Oiestertim'). — The flowers you send are cer- tainly very distinct ; they may, however, be named. No. 1 is a pure white flower, with broad sepals and petals, all more or less fringed, especially the petals ; the lip is also white, saving a few spots of chocolate. This in colour and markings is cer- tainly the true form of 0. Alexandriu, as first figured by Bateman in his monograph of the Odontoglossums, but it is a much finer form of the plant than that figured. No. 2 may be considered as 0. fastuosum, the sepals being rosy lilac, the petals white, and the whole destitute of spots. In the true form there are usually a few spots on each of the segments ; lip white, yellow at the base, and with a few irregular spots of chestnut-brown. No. 3 is doubtless 0. Coradinei, which by some is not considered a variety of crispum at all, but of Lindleyanum, and by others it is considered a distinct plant ; the flower is yellow, having on each segment a few spots of chestnut. This is by far the poorest bloom in the batch sent, whilst No. -1 is by far the finest and best flower, being a fine form of 0. Wilckeanum, which is by some supposed to be a natural hybrid between 0. crispum and luteo-purpureum ; it has, however, the 0. crispum character about it, the segments all pure white, heavily blotched and spotted with dark chestnut- brown, and the petals much fringed and serrated. THE WEEK'S WORK. KITCHEN GARDEN. FoBciKa AsPABAGUS.— The moist heat gene- rated by leaves or leaves and manure is most fa- vourable to the production of succulent shoots, and in this case not much water will be needed, espe- cially if fairly rich, moist material surrounds the roots. Where, however, the forcing is accomplished solely or principally with the aid of fire-heat, then water must be given much more freely. On no account should the soil be allowed to become dry nor a high temperature be maintained. We prefer that the bottom-heat should exceed the top-heat, the former standing say at about 70" and the top- heat at least 10° lower. Hard forced, the growth is spindly and the crop is soon over. Fresh beds should be formed every two or three weeks ac- cording to the demand and the available supply of either old or specially-prepared roots. All are worthless after having been forced. Sea KALE. — Many make the attempt, but few suc- ceed in cutting Seakale for Christmas from roots forced where they are established. These early- formed open-air hot-beds are at times liable to become too hot and fairly burn the crowns, but more often than not they fail to continue hot enough to affect the roots, and in this case the progress is very slow indeed. The beds being com- paratively narrow ought to be well enclosed by dry ttrawy litter, this being arranged so as to throw off rain and snow-water. If they are found at the present time in a saturated state, the simplest plan is to form a new bed, and this should soon bring up the growth. Strong young roots are the best for lifting and forcing in either pots in well heated houses, or in a Mushroom house. In order to have plenty of these next season, save all the clean young roots about the size of a man's little finger that may be broken off at lifting time, cut these into 3-inch lengths, and pack thickly Into boxes of soil, the thickest end uppermost and just showing above the soil. These stored in a cool shed will eventually callus or form roots and buds, and be fit for planting out in April or May. Bboccoli. — Just now these are rather scarce, especially where none have been stored under cover. Any of Veitch's Autumn Protecting left in the open Jan. 11, 1890.1 THE GAEDEN. 37 and the forwardest of Snow's Winter ought to be lifted at once, as only a moilerately severe frost will spoil them. Deep heated pits are of good service in forwarding or protecting Broccoli. The plants ought to be lifted with a ball of soil about the roots, replanted rather closely in good rich soil and at once well watered. Forcing must not be resorted to, but if given a moderate amount of air only, and not allowed to become dry at the roots, medium-sized, close and perfectly blanched hearts will soon form. PARSLEr. — Where this was not protected in any way the frost has destroyed nearly the whole of it. The least that ought to have been done was to have covered a few strong plants either with frames or handlights, but where no protective measures have been taken, it is now imperative that some steps be taken towards preventing a great and very undesirable gap in the supply. A number of strong roots with the hearts uninjured may well be lifted and packed rather closely in either pots or boxes filled with rich compost. Be- ing then placed in a newly started vinery or Peach house, or in any light warm house or pit, active growth will soon commence, and useful gatherings of fresh leaves be obtained in due course. In some cases it is even advisable to form a hot-bed specially for forcing old Parsley roots. A two- light frame would hold many dozen strong roots, as they do not require much room. Mint and Tarragon.— Of the various herbs grown, none are in greater demand than these. Seeing that young green shoots are much preferred to dried leaves, and how readily both can be forced, it is advisable to lift a few flakes or shallow clumps, placing these in boxes, covering with light soil, and gently forwarding in heat. Both are liable to die off somewhat mysteriously during the winter, especially if no protection is afforded the roots. Already the Tarragon shoots are showing above ground, and if not already done, a light sur- facing of leaf-soil or, better still, old Mushroom bed manure ought to be given. Much mischief is also done by the small black slugs. Place a few Broccoli leaves or little heaps of bran on the bed to attract the slugs and destroy the latter when thus caught. Seed Potatoes.— These ought certainly to be protected from severe frosts, especially when stored in cold open sheds, but too often the covering of sacks, mats, carpet or litter is left on the heaps long after all danger from frosts is past, the conse- quence being premature and ruinous sprouting. If the planting tubers cannot be stored thinly, the least that can be done is to keep them in shallow heaps clear of the " ware " Potatoes, and to let them have all the light and air possible consistent with safety. In some places wnere shed room is very limited, it is not an unfrequent practice to place the seed Potatoes in deep boxes, tubs or hampers where, if they are overlooked for a time and kept rather warm, they eventually become a mass of roots and shoots. W. I. PLANT HOUSES. Habdt shrubs for forcing.— In selecting the hardy shrubs that are to be forced it is necessary to begin with those kinds that naturally bloom early. Where there happens to be a large ccnser- vatory to supply there is nothing more effective than Rhododendrons. Not only do the flowers last a long time, but where plants have been chosen that are well set with buds, they produce a mass of colour that is always attractive. There are a num- hiT of fine varieties, such as the caucasioum hybrids, that are of little use out-of-doors on account of their disposition to bloom early. These are the sorts that should be forced first. Deutzia gracilis and the double-flowered Chinese Plum (Prunus sinensis) are two of the best hardy shrubs for pot work, as they yield a large quantity of flowers in proportion to the room they occupy. Amongst Andromedas the best for forcing is the compara- tively little-known A. japonica, which is a beautiful and distinct kind. Its only fault for outdoor cul- tivation is that it blooms before hard weather is over. Viburnum plicatnm is one of the best hardy plants, as it flowers profusely. The flowers are un- rivalled for their whiteness, and they are as use- ful for cutting where large vases or stands are to be filled as the plants are for general decorations. Azalea mollis is indispensable for winter-flowering in pots. Plants that were forced last winter, and were afterwards kept under glass and encouraged to make growth and set their buds similarly to the Chinese hybrids, previous to their being stood out- side, are in many cases quite equal to the best ex- amples that have been grown out-of-doors. In some cases these second season plants will have a greater quantity of buds proportionate to their size than the outdoor prepared stock. On no ac- count must an attempt be made to hurry them into bloom, as if this is done the first flowers which open on the bunches will drop before the later ones are matured. Amongst things of a less hardy nature, the common Hydrangea and the smaller-flowered H. Thomas Hogg are indispensable. The flowers of the last-mentioned kind are quite white when forced, and smaller than those of the old sort. The length of time both the kinds remain fresh is worth taking into account, as when kept in a greenhouse temperature, or in that of an entrance hall, they maintain a good appearance for several weeks. Plants should be used that have been specially pre- pared during the past summer, or that have been struck in the autumn from shoots which had their buds previously set. As has before been urged, much depends on the way the plants are treated during the time the forcing is going on as to the length of time the flowers last when required for cutting. On no account will it do to hurry them with too much heat. An intermediate temperature is quite sufficient to give them, and they must also be kept as near the roof of the house or pit where the forcing is carried out as circumstances will permit. Neither must there be too much moisture in the atmosphere of the house. Once a day is often enough to syringe overhead. Mignonette. — The earliest set of plants raised from seed sown at the end of summer, and that are now in small pots and have been once stopped, will soon require moving into the 6-inoh pots in which they are to bloom. These will be quite large enough. Loam of medium texture, with some rotten manure, leaf-mould and sand, is the best compost for Mignonette. Drain well and pot moderately firmly. The shoots should be tied well out, using a small stick to each. This is all the training that is necessary. Keep the plants, as hitherto advised, close to the roof of the house or pit they occupy. The second batch that are in- tended to bloom after the early set are over, and which should consist of about three plants in each pot, and have been grown on without stopping, should also be moved. Give them the same sized pots as the earliest portion, and treat in other matters similarly. See also that the stock is quite free from aphides. A little seed may soon be put in, the plants raised from which should be grown three or four together, and, like those of the second set, not have their tops pinched out. They will bloom before any flowers are to be had out of doors, and be alike useful for cutting or for ordi- nary decoration. Panicum variegatum.— With plants of this character that are increased by division of the crowns, it is best to begin early in the year. The variegated form of this Panicum is generally pre- ferred to the normal green sort, so that when the stock is to be increased, the selection for the pur- pose should be confined to plants that have a fair proportion of variegated leaves. The best way to proceed is to shake all the soil away, so that the roots can be disentangled in a manner that will admit of the divided portions having their share of roots uninjured. On this to a considerable ex- tent depends the plants making headway. It is hardly necessary to say that the stronger the pieces used, the better plants they will make within a given time. Five-inch pots are large enough to grow them in, and into these they may be put at once. Drain sufficiently and pot in soil consisting of half peat and half loam, with some sand added. Water freely and stand the plants where they will get plenty of light in a house or pit where they can have an intermediate temperature. No shade will be required until later on when the sun gets powerful. T. B. FRUIT HOUSES. Melons. — The gardener who has every convenience for growing very early Melons wiU now resume operations in the Melon house proper, first by a general clearance and cleansing, and second by the preparation of the bed, as there must be no hitch or delay when the young seedlings are ready for turning out. The seeds meantime must be sown, singly or in pairs, in very small pots and plunged in a bottom-heat of 80°, where they will be safe from the ravages of woodlice, crickets, and cock- roaches, and within a few inches of the glass. Heat, light, and moisture are elements which must be secured in the nursing pit, and this being the commencement of a long season both of Melons and Cucumbers, much time and annoyance will be saved by fitting up a suitable place at the outset. If a small propagating pit is in work, a temporary bed of tan or leaves a few feet square at the warmest end will turn out a constant supply of plants ; but, lacking this convenience, a small bed may be made up at one end of the house in which winter Cucum- bers are now in full bearing. The best soil for the seed-pots is pure calcareous loam and not too light, as this forms the nucleus of the ball which must support the plants until the fruit is ripe. Further, it must be thoroughly warm and fairly moist when the seeds are inserted, but not dry enough to neces- sitate giving one drop of water until the seedlings have developed the first pair of leaves. If the bed is formed of moist tan or fermenting Oak leaves the conditions will be quite satisfactory, and con- sidering that the tiny pots will fill quickly with roots, the weakest of the two plants must be pulled up the moment the other is taking the lead. Then, cramping the roots being quite as prejudicial as sowing in too light a soil, provision must be made for giving a small shift, provided the fruiting pit is not quite ready for them. Small shifts at this early season, however, being objectionable, a strong effort should be made to have the fruiting pots quite ready by the time they are wanted. I have said fruiting pots advisedly, as this mode of early culture offers many advantages at a time when the grower is heavily handicapped by outside condi- tions. The opposing elements are too well known; the advantages are the maintenance of a sharp and steady bottom-heat quite up to the rims of the pots, which should stand on pedestals, the convenience for turning and renovating the beds when the heat is declining, the knowledge of the position of the roots, which can be fed to any extent without waste when the fruit is swell- ing, and the brief period which will suffice for pro- ducing a dry condition when the fruit is setting and again when ripening ; then last, but not least, comes the certainty of producing in the shortest possible time fruit of the highest quality, as the bottom-heat of 80° can be maintained until the Melons are ready for cutting. If the merits of pot culture ended here we might say enough, but they do not, for, independently of escaping the evils of a cold, wet root-run when we are vainly trying for high flavour, the grower who has a set of small compartments at work may always have succes- sional batches of plants 2 feet to 3 feet in height ready for going in on the very day the last fruit is cut from their predecessors. By adopting this plan the grower may fruit three distinct sets of plants in one season, and three efficiently heated pits may be used for stove plants or winter Cucumbers. The best Compost for the fruiting pots should consist of heavy calcareous loam quite innocent of animal manure, unless very poor, when a little dry cow manure may be rubbed through a sieve and added, bone-dust, a dash of soot, and about one to ten of old lime rubbish or hair plaster. These materials should be put together when quite dry some weeks in advance and occupy a warm place until wanted for use. The pots, 12 inches to 1-t inches in dia- 38 THE GARDEN [Jan. 11, 1890. meter, previously placed on solid pedestals for safety from strangling and convenience for tnrning the bed, should then be filled two-thirds full and thoroughly rammed with a potting stick, not only to secure a firm, sustaining medium for the roots, but also to form a solid base for small cones of com- post, which must be raised quite level with the rims for the reception of the plants, as Melons, unlike Cucumbers, will not thrive under a system of earthing round the collars. When the young plants are turned out, the balls having been previously moistened, the coiling roots should be set at liberty with the finger, especially if at all pot- bound, and placed on the summits of the cones, where a little of the warmest compost must be carefully placed around them. If very dry'a little warm water may be given, but otherwise the roots will find sufficient uioistnre in the soil, and danger from damping will be avoided. A light training stick will conduct each plant to the trellis, and the atmosphere kept properly moist will soon draw out the roots, when more compost must be added little and often as they show on the surface. When in free growth the pots may be filled up and carefully rammed, the space of an inch being left inside the rims for the reception of water. Pot Vines started over bottom-heat in November will now be tied down and stopped, and the earliest varieties will be coming into flower. When this stage is reached raise the temperature from 00° to G5° at night, 70° to 75° by day, and 80° for a short time when the sun breaks through the haze, as so frequently happens in frosty weather. Syring- ing, as a matter of course, will be discontinued, but the walls and surface of the bed must be regularly moistened with tepid water, otherwise the incessant fire-heat will soon shrivel the delicate organs of the flowers, when the set will not be nearly so good as one could wish, no matter how carefully they are fertilised. Some growers fertilise, or think they fertilise, by light syringing on fine bright days, and no doubt they lend powerful aid by producing moisture at a time when the male organs require support under the trying influence of fire and sun- heat combined. But whether fertilisation is due to the water or its invigorating influence is ex- tremely doubtful. Be this as it may, a higher temperature and a moderately moist buoyant atmo- sphere are essentials, and those who do not believe in water may fertilise with the camel's-hair brush or rabbit's tail, using pollen from the Hamburgh if obtainable. When the Grapes are well set reduce the bunches to six if good, thin when the size of swan shot, top-dress with good material, and com- mence, mildly at first, the process of feeding. If space admits tie in the leading laterals for more foliage, as leaves make roots, and active roots must be plentiful if pot Grapes are to do credit to the grower. Also look well to the bottom-heat, and add fresh warm leaves the moment it shows signs of declining. When the bunches are properly thinned the night temperature may be allowed to fall back to (10° in bad weather in preference to hard dry firing, but no fixed figure must be insisted upon, as time apparently lost in severe weather can always be redeemed by early closing with sun- heat later in the season. Thb eably vineey containing Vines from which the first new Grapes are to be cut, if started in November will now be fit for disbudding. If young and strong and breaking double, the weakest shoots must be taken away from the strongest, and the canes being short-jointed, these strong shoots in due course must be thinned to a foot apart for pruning the future spur- wood. As strong canes are generally bent down to secure an even break, they must be tied up to the wires when this end is attained, otherwise the young growths will draw up to the light and give extra trouble when the time arrives for tying down to the trellis. If, on the other hand, the rods are old and the spurs a good distance apart, two young shoots may be left on each spur, the one farthest from home to carry the bunch, the other to form next year's pruning bud, and mean- time to assist in covering the trellis with foliage. All bunch-carrying shoots may be stopped at the second bud beyond the show, when the leading lateral can be laid in, and in due course stopped for an extra leaf or two, but having a second shoot from many of the spurs care must be taken that the wood and leaves do not become crowded. As growth proceeds and the most compact show on each shoot becomes prominent all others may be re- moved, when a little more heat, say 58° by night, 68° by day, and 70° to 75° when the sun is shining, will be of the greatest advantage in drawing out the clusters. Fertilisation in due course, as a matter of precaution, will be followed up as Grapes of all kinds, including the Hamburgh, are improved by the application of foreign pollen. Another very important point in setting Grapes is free root action. Therefore, assuming that these have the run of in- side and outside borders, the first should be well mulched with short stable litter and freely supplied with water at a temperature of i(0° a week or two before the first flower opens. Young Vines may not require the ammonia, but a fillip will do the roots no harm, and old ones will derive the greatest bene- fit from a supply which will keep them going until the latest cluster is fertilised and swelling. The outside borders do not derive much benefit from the application of fermenting material at the outset, as this treatment excites the roots and weakens the Vines by drawing the stored sap out of them, but once the young growths are in leaf, valuable aid may be afforded by a covering of dry warm Oak leaves at a temperature ranging from 70° to 80°. If placed on the borders to the thickness of a foot, made solid and covered with corrugated sheets, the surface will be kept uniformly warm and checks from cold rain and snow wiU be prevented. MiDSBASON HOUSES.— Assuming that the Vines in these have been pruned, cleansed, and well rested by abundant ventilation, steps must be taken for getting the borders into thorough growing condition by the day they are closed for forcing. Vines started in January, having the season with them, generally break freely enough without the aid of much fire-heat, but seeing that we have all our winter to come, this dry element may be greatly softened and economised by the introduction of a good ridge of Oak leaves in a state of fermentation. As days are increasing in length and more sun may be expected, the syringe may be pretty freely used when the temperature begins to rise and again at midday, but not later, as the buds should be dry before nightfall. Damping the walls and floors of course may be continued, but having fermenting material in the house, these at no time should be allowed to become wet, cold and sloppy. The tem- perature here may range 50° to 55° through the night with a chink of air, and 55° to 60° by day until the buds become prominent, but no hard and fast line must be drawn, especially by night, during the prevalence of ungenial outside conditions. MuBCATS. — Where more than one house is devoted to this fine Grape the first will now be closed for forcing, and, like the early Hamburghs, the princi- pal part of the roots will be confined to inside borders. Here, as in all other houses, the great secret of success hinges on keeping the roots well drained, but moist, warm and active, and the better to secure these points, wide and deep borders should be avoided. Muscat A'ines, indeed, never show, set and finish their bunches better than when the inside areas are not quite filled up with compost, and the retaining wall of turf can be well warmed by a lining of leaves in a state of fermentation. If Gros Colman is required at its very best, this early Muscat house is the most suitable home that can be found for it, and if not already introduced the quality of the fruit may be still further improved by grafting or inarching on young rods of the Muscat. Adepts at bottle-grafting can fill a house with fruiting canes in one year ; but those who have not been successful may secure good rods by cutting back strong planting Vines and inarching green shoots when stocks are ready for them. HARDY FRUITS. Once more we are commencing a new year, and, borne up by hope, all growers of hardy fmits are look- ing forward to better results than those which mark 1889 as the year of the caterpillar plague. Growers in all parts of the kingdom have been greasing and tarring the stems of their Apple trees, and where they have not injured the latter, let us hope they have checked the progress of the winter moth, for never in my recollection have orchard trees gene- rally looked more promising than they do at the present time. What the outcome may be no one can venture a surmise, but one thing is quite cer- tain : we must plod patiently along, we must pay the most careful attention to every detail, antici- pating where we can, and trust to the elements for the crop. Planting for the present having been suspended, root-pruning, renovating, top-dressing, and draining may be continued, and last, but not least important, trees of all kinds may be cleansed and dressed to free them from Lichen and Moss. Soapsuds and brine are excellent destroyers of parasites and the larvae of insects which may sur- vive the sharpest winters without having to cross the greasy bands on their way to or from the ground ; but, lacking these or the convenience for applying them, myriads of insects as well as their shelter may be destroyed by the use of quicklime. This should be obtained fresh from the kiln and slaked by exposure to the atmosphere in a dry, open shed ; then in the form of a light floating powder free from more moisture than it has taken from the atmosphere, it will permeate the heads of the largest trees. A calm day is the best for the application of lime, and in order to make it as eflicacious as possible the workman should locate himself above the largest limbs. The worst of all insects met with amongst Apple trees is the Ameri- can bug, and much as it is discomfited by cleanli- ness, a clean sweep cannot be made without the aid of very strong insecticides in the form of Gishurst compound, soft soap, or paraffin oil. The latter is sometimes used neat, but the safest and best plan is to make an emulsion by putting to- gether half a pint of oil and a pound of soap and reducing by the addition of a quart of boiling water for application with a painter's brush when cold. If the stems of the trees have been ex- coriated by the bug, a healing paint may be made by the addition of a little fine stiff loam and a small quantity of quicklime. Choice Fruit Trees. Peaches. — If these have not been liberated from the walls, no time must be lost in getting them detached and made secure to stakes stuck firmly into the ground. Pruning having been per- formed early in the autumn, the only operation now necessary is scrubbing the old stems and branches with strong soap water and the careful washing of the young shoots. If detached on a mild, dry day the two operations may be performed under one head, when the trees will require no further attention until the time arrives for nailing or tying them in. The walls meantime must be thoroughly washed with soapsuds or coloured with a mixture of lime, soot, and Venetian red reduced to the consistency of thick paint by the addition of boiling water and linseed oil, one pint to a gallon of the wash. Pbaes always come in for the winter pruning and training, but complete detachment, a regular system of spur-thinning and cleansing too often go by default. Pears, as a rule, produce ten flower- buds where one would suffice, and the latter, strong, bold, and perfect, would swell a much finer fruit than can be secured when all are allowed to ex- pand. These, then, should be well thinned and shortened back with a fine-bladed knife, and the trees being so subject to scale so closely resem- bling the bark, steps should be taken for removing or fixing them for ever by the use of the Apple tree paint. The benefit does not end here, for, inde- pendently of the destruction of an insect which exhausts a tree, the application of a cleansing paint favours the expansion of the sap-wood and bark. Where cordon trees on the Quince stock are grown against walls, all old mulching and top- dressing may now be removed with a steel fork, and, considering that this stock cannot be overfed, the operator should be prepared with an abundant supply of new. Trees on south and west walls will Jan. 11, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 39 not resent the application of 4 inches of rotten manure, but a most excellent top-dressing may be manufactured out of old Melon soil, burnt refuse, lime rubble, and rotten manure in equal parts, thoroughly mixed, applied in winter and washed in with sewage liquid during the summer. W. C. Kitchen Garden. NOVELTIES. To all appearances the time has arrived when seedsmen of good repute have begun to discover the error of their ways, and, what is more to the purpose, have decided to eschew some of the practices that have so long found favour with them. I allude more especially to the fashion of introducing novelties with a flourish of trumpets, and which eventually prove to be of no real worth, or at any rate to be vei-y doubtful im- provements on old forms. The first seed cata- logue received this season came from one of the leading London firms, and for the first time for many years, I believe, my copy contains no men- tion of any novelty not previously offered to the gardening world. Not one new variety of Po- tato at so much per pound, no novelty in the way of Peas, no addition to the number of giant runner Beans, and not even a perfectly fresh and invaluable Tomato offered for the first time. I could hardly believe my eyes, and referred a second time to see if there was no mistake, or whether I had not, by an oversight or otherwise, received an old catalogue. I and doubtless many others are tired of giving high prices for small packets of seed of forms that are very doubtful advances on old favourites, and though the temptation, in the shape of an exaggerated wood- cut and a glowing description, is hard to resist, it will have to be something very much out of the common that will induce me to buy it. Not that all the novelties offered of late years are spurious ; far from it. Several decided improve- ments on old forms have been introduced during the past decade, but for one that maintains its pre-eminence there are fully a dozen that have died a natural death, being either considered synonymous with previously existing varieties, or else found to be really inferior to them. This being so, I cannot help thinking that the principal motive of forcing the sale of so-called novelties is the fact that much higher prices can be charged for the seed. There are notable ex- ceptions to this rule, as there are vendors of seeds who thoroughly test or have tested by competent authorities all the novelties they in- troduce, and who firmly believe them to be all that is said of them. Being somewhat behind the scenes, I happen to know there are also seeds- men who hold a small stock of, say, six presum- ably improved forms of vegetables, and of these, small packets of seeds are sent for trial among a limited number of gardeners. In due course, an opinion on their merits is invited, but they do not thank you for the trouble you have taken it your verdict is not in accordance with their own wishes. What is wanted is a glowing account of each, and if the variety is said to be a grand advance upon all known forms, then you are gratefully thanked ; but if you speak the truth, no letter of thanks nor any more trial seeds find their way into your hands. At any rate, such is my experience, though it may be I am somewhat unfortunate in my trials and also in my habit of calling a spade by its right name. It must not be thought that we have yet reached the millennium, or even that the days of big vegetables are over. One writer recently asserted in the pages of The Garden that great I size in all vegetables. Onions excepted, is a dis- qualification in the eyes of good judges at flower shows, but according to my experience he is very much mistaken in his conclusions, or they must have been arrived at from what has taken place over a somewhat limited area. Were "A. D." or anyone else to exhibit medium- sized vegetables only, or such as find favour with most cooks, at the principal provincial shows, or even at manyminor exhibitions, the experience gained would be very different to what he states. The premier prizes are invariably awarded to the largest examples, always provided they are per- fect in other respects, good table stufl' which might look quite large enough before it leaves the place where it is grown presenting quite an insignificant appearance on the exhibition boards, the growers, who are seldom impartial judges, being obliged to admit they are " simply nowhere." Overgrown Vegetable Marrows are certainly tabooed, but who other than an inex- perienced person would maintain that great size alone militates against Asparagus, Cauliflowers, Tomatoes, Peas, Beans, Parsnips, Celery and Leeks ? Why even comparatively large Carrots, Beet, Turnips, and Potatoes, if otherwise per- fect, are preferred to the neater and most pro- bably more serviceable examples staged next to them. Instead of decreasing, I am afraid the rage among exhibitors for the largest forms of vegetables is on the increase, and not till a change for the better takes place, if it ever does, will seedsmen wholly cease to cater for their especial wants. It would appear, however, that the maximum length of pod in the case of Peas, Broad, Kidney, and Runner Beans has been reached, and novelty will have to be sought in another direction, such, for instance, as a va- riety that would need no stakes. Extra long Cucumbers were long since discarded by most growers, and it may be this has turned the at- tention of raisers to the production of perfectly formed, medium-sized varieties, as these are now forthcoming. Monstrous Tomatoes are out of date, the exhibitors preferring perfect and not particularly large fruit of the Perfec- tion type. The best novelty among Tomatoes when it is generally distributed wUl be found in the ChLswick Hybrid, or Conference Tomato, as I believe it is now termed, this being on an average slightly below medium size and per- fect in every way. The Wroxton I believe to be a good serviceable Onion ; in fact, it was proved to be such long before it was sent out under its present name, but none of the other large forms are of any value to the non exhibi- tor. With these, as in the case of Leeks, Celery, and Parsnips, very much depends upon the skill of the cultivator, some of the older favourites frequently equalling the much- vaunted newer forms on the exhibition table. The new Purple Beet I believe to be both dis- tinct and good, and therefore a desirable no- velty ; and the Crimson Ball must inevitably replace the ordinary Turnip-rooted. Broccoli, Borecoles, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage and Savoy Cabbage, and Turnips all remain much as they were, none of the novelties I have tried being of marked superiority to older varieties. Ap- parently there is nothing new in the way of Lettuces, but I am glad to see Endive Louviers included in English catalogues, and the com- pilers would have done well to also ofier seeds of the newer Continental forms of Celeriac. M. H. Forcing Lettuces. — There are no Lettuces so sweet and crisp in the months of March and April as those which have been helped on with a little artificial heat, such as is generated by a bed of fer- menting materials, composed principally of leaves, just enough stable manure being added to the bulk to hold them together when made into a square heap. In country places the leaves cost but little to gather up, and after they have been used for forcing and are decayed into mould, the product is valuable for many purposes. The best forcing Let- tuce, in my opinion, is the Early Paris Market Cab- bage. It turns in very quickly and forms close firm hearts without tying up. The best Cos for this work is the Paris White Cos, but it is a long way behind the Paris Cabbage in point of earliness. I generally sow a few seeds in a box in the orchard house in September, then thin out a little it too thick, leaving them about an inch apart. These are now nice little plants tor setting out on a genial hotbed, covered with a frame. Lettuces will follow Asparagus in the same frame without any renewal of the bed or soil. Simply take out the old spent Asparagus roots, level down the soil and dibble in the Lettuces 6 inches apart ; keep close for a few days till the Lettuces get established, and then on fine bright days give a little air at the back to let out any surplus moisture with which the atmo- sphere may be charged. Simply a chink of air along the back will be sufficient till the days lengthen and the plants begin to form hearts. On such a bed very little water wiU be required at first, but when the plants begin to heart, liquid manure will be beneficial.— E. H. CELERIAC. Celbeiac or Turnip-rooted Celery is a most useful vegetable in most gardens where there is a large and varied demand tor vegetables. I have observed that it is not much grown, and when cultivated it is often placed in odd corners, being only used for flavouring and not as a vegetable. This is one of the most favoured vegetables on the Continent and the roots are grown to a large size. I observed that there was only one English collection at the Royal Horticultural Society's conference at Chis- wick in September, and that was much inferior to that exhibited by Messrs. H. Vilmorin, of Paris. No doubt it was rather early for Celeriac, but equally as good roots as those shown from Paris could have been grown in England if a little care and atten- tion had been given to them. Many cultivators do not trouble to sow this early enough to get large fleshy roots. Celeriac is a gross feeder, and the best I ever grew was planted in a moderately light soil, when the ground was frequently saturated with liquid manure just as it came from the stables. Seed should be sown early in February or March in pans or boxes in the same way as Celery and placed in heat, taking care not to overwater to cause damping off, and to place the pan of seed close to the light as soon as the seedlings appear and gradually to harden them in a cooler house or frame. It is necessary to pay rather more attention to these details in order to prevent the plants be- coming drawn in their early stages. We prick off our plants into boxes as early as possible, placing on a warm bed in a frame close to the glass, only shading tor a few days from the sun during the hot- test part of the day, and giving plenty of air as soon as the seedlings get a few roots. The seedlings, when pricked off into the boxes, should be allowed plenty of room to develop their foliage. A tem- perature of 55° to G0° is sufficient at this stage, and when room can be afforded them the seedlings may be pricked out in the frames on an old hotbed, and care taken to keep them moist. The plants, having been well hardened off, should be planted out 2 feet apart on ground that has been deeply dug and well manured the previous autumn. Celeriac does not require trenches, but it is best to draw a rather deep drill before planting ; this will allow the moisture to get to the roots of the plants when watered, as Celeriac should never suffer from drought. As the plants increase in size the ground between the rows should get a thick covering of decayed cow manure which will greatly assist the plants in hot seasons, and where it can be carried out a good soaking of liquid manure once or twice a month will be very beneficial. During the growth of the plants they should have all side and lateral shoots removed as they appear, restricting the plant to one crown or shoot. A later sowing may be 40 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 11, 1890. made if desired, but the roots will be much smaller; these are useful for soups and other purposes. I usually store the roots in a cool place during the winter, lifting them late in the autumn, but this is not necessary where protection can be afforded them, as when I lifted them our ground was wet and rather heavy. In light soils with ample protection they will remain good for months. The later sown plants will do well if lifted and placed thickly together in rows under a south wall, and covered during sharp frosts with litter or bracken. By thus lifting them the second growth is checked and the season prolonged, while the tops are often serviceable for flavouring after the Celery is over. G. Wythbs. Symi House. THE SEED ORDER. With the arrival of the seed lists the work of the season of 1890 may be said to have commenced, nearly the first proceeding, and that an important one and which ought not to be long delayed, being the filling in and despatch of the seed order. To the inexperienced, selecting the varieties and de- ciding upon the quantities required is by no means a simple undertaking, and it often happens that the simplest way out of the difficulty — viz , leaving the selection to the seedsman favoured with the order— is chosen. It does not follow, however, that the simplest plan is always the best, and 1 hold it to be a great mistake to shirk the responsibility of selecting for oneself. Nor do I admit that the collections of seeds as made up and supplied by most seedsmen are the most economical in the end. They certainly comprise a larger quantity of seed, of fairly good quality, too, than can be bought for the same money independently; but, excellent and presumably cheap as they are, there is much to be urged against them. Not unfrequently fully one- third, sometimes even more, of the seeds sent in comparatively small collections— or, say, those suitable for about one acre of ground — are not made nse of ; they are not wanted, in fact ; while perhaps several varieties that are sown are not well adapted to the place. The aim of each and every gardener, whether amateur or professional, should be to dis- cover which are the best kinds and varieties for their respective places, ordering and sticking to these till something better can be found to super- sede them. If rather more is paid for them, what is wanted, or what will prove the most profitable in the end, will be obtained. Extravagance in ordering seeds ought always to be avoideii, this inevitably reacting on those who err in that direction, and not unfrequently ending in the owners of gardens taking the matter into their own hands, the other extreme being almost the sure consequence. Here let me point out to the owners of gardens, whether large or small, how unwise it is to be too niggardly in the matter of ordering seeds, especially seeing how many and various are the difficulties and contingencies the gardener has to face. From causes, unavoidable or otherwise, some sowings may be partial and others complete failures, and unless there is more seed in reserve the chances are the crops will be of no value. If sowing seeds too thickly is a mistake, sowing too few is equally reprehensible. Former generations of practical gardeners thought it advisable to sow " enough for the hoe and some for the crow," or, in other words, enough to provide against possible losses, and so ought we. Nor ought much value to be attached to old seeds. All may be a year or two older than those who possess them may be aware of, as quite new seeds are not always supplied, especially in collections, the consequence being a very poor growth. Much depends upon the way old seeds have been stored, dryness being most essential, but no matter how well the old seeds have been kept, they rarely ger- minate so strongly and quickly as do new seeds. In any case, old seeds require more heat to start them, and if comparatively puny plants are ob- tained, a very bad beginning has been made. There are a few exceptions to the foregoing rule which perhaps I shall do well to enumerate. Those which germinate the most weakly after the first year are" Peas, runner, broad, and kidney Beans, Carrots, Parsnip, and Rhubarb, these failing badly it the soil is cold and wet. Onion, Leek, Salsafy, Scorzonera, Tomato, Radish, Cress, and such herbs as Balm, Basil, Pennyroyal, Savory and Thyme will germinate fairly well after being kept over one clear season, while those which keep one year or more longer are Lettuce, Endive, Broccoli, Bore- cole, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Beet, Celery, Spinach, Chervil, Parsley, Turnip, Aspara- gus, Marjoram, Mint, and Cucumber. Reference has frequently been made to the best varieties of vegetables, many of which are well adapted for most gardens, and those who are yet undecided as to what to order ought to hunt up the back numbers and take the advice there offered. The descriptions given in seed catalogues may to a certain extent be truthful enough, but the adjectives are so freely applied in so many cases, that it is hardly possible to select a limited number of varieties without the aid of previous ex- perience or later advice. The enthusiast especially is apt to cultivate a great number of varieties, growing small quantities of each ; but interesting and fairly instructive as these trials may prove, they are not as a rule very satisfactory from a cook's point of view. It is found that by far the best succession of superior vegetables is maintained with the aid of a comparatively limited number of varieties, and there is not nearly so much trouble necessary in cultivating these. It may, perhaps, surprise many gardeners to learn that only three varieties of Po- tatoes were grown, up to within a short time ago, in one of the largest and best managed kitchen gardens in the country, and not more than five va- rieties of Peas. Seeing that not less than forty quarts of the latter were annually sown, it is only a tho- roughly experienced and rather strong-minded gar- dener that could resist ordering more varieties, but throughout only the best and most approved varie- ties of vegetables were grown, these being limited in number and grown in extra large quantities to meet the demands of a princely establishment. If this rule proves correct in the case of an extra large garden, it is even more to be commended to those with more limited means. In some instances the selection of varieties is not the difficulty, the quantities required being the most difficult to determine. Even this ought to disappear after the first year. The memory is not to be trusted, and the proper thing to do is to keep either a copy or the invoice of last order given, this serving as a guide, and being perhaps improved upon when the next order sheet is filled. It may be of service to those who are ordering their seeds for the first time if I state about what quantities of each kind of vegetable are required for a garden of about one acre in size. This to a certain extent may be of assistance also to those who have charge of larger gardens, the quantities being increased according to the size of the garden and demands of the establishment to be supplied with vegetables all the year round, half-ounce or one-ounce packets being substituted in many cases for small packets. Of Peas six or seven quarts are ample for affording a long succession ; Broad Beans, three or four pints ; runner Beans, one pint ; kidney Beans, two pints in two varieties ; Beet, one packet of Turnip- rooted and one ounce of a good late variety ; Bore- cole, two packets ; Broccoli, four packets, in as many varieties ; Cabbage, two half-ounce packets in two varieties ; and one packet each of Colewort and Chou de Burghley; Savoy Cabbage, one packet each of three varieties ; Carrot, one ounce each of forcing French Horn, Nantes Horn, and Interme- diate ; Cauliflower, one packet each of dwarf early successional variety, and Autumn Giant, half an ounce of the latter not being too much ; Celery, one small packet each of a good white and red va- riety ; Mustard and Cress, one quart of each ; En- dive, one small packet each of Green Curled and Batavian ; Leek, one half-ounce packet ; Lettuce, one half -ounce packet each of two good Cabbage varieties and Paris White and Brown Cos ; Onion, one ounce of mixed Tripoli, and not less than three ounces in two or three varieties of the White Spanish and keeping type; Parsley, one packet; Parsnip, one ounce ; Radish, four ounces each of two or three varieties; Spinach, one pint; Turnip, one ounce each of the three best varieties ; Tomato, one or two small packets ; Vegetable Marrow, one packet; herbs, small packets of any kinds needed. W. I. Chrysanthemums. SPOILING THE CHRYSANTHEMUM. If you will allow me to say so, I think this dis- cussion might be reduced to less compass with advantage. First of all, it is not a question of "everyone pleasing himself according to his ideas," a plea advanced by the big-flower worshippers as an excuse for setting an example of bad taste. There is such a thing as good and bad taste in gardening in almost every phase of it, and the object of criticism in such matters has been, I take it, "to improve our ways" and guide our path, and Chrysanthemum cul- ture is no exception to the rule. Chrysanthe- mum growers may please themselves, but when they adopt a certain standard of excellence and set it up in public exhibitions and elsewhere as an example to be copied, commended, and re- warded by the chief prizes, they are going a good deal further than "pleasing themselves," and it is on that ground the critic meets them. It is a fact that at exhibitions the big flowers invariably carry the day, other points being equal, and it is frivolous attempting to dispute the fact. How large a big-flower grower would like to have his flowers nobody knows, but if his flowers were as broad as a Tam o' Shanter bonnet and were di.squalified on that account, he would make the show tent ring with his lamen- tations, and the whole fraternity would cry aloud. The big- flower craze had no dignified origin to recommend it. It is simply an empirical standard derived by gardeners from big Po- tatoes, big Leeks, big fruits, and big specimens witliout any regard to the subjects themselves. There is some sense and reason in big fruits and vegetables, and a big Clirysanthemum plant well grown and well and profusely bloomed to show the possibilities of the plant — like a good Geranium, a good Heath, or a good Orchid — would also be an object worth striving for ; but your big cut bloom can be and is produced by good, bad, and indifferent gardeners with equal success provided they adhere to a few simple rules, grow plenty of plants to ensure a choice, and spare neither time nor expense in culture. There is no doubt on the point whatever that a naturally grown Chi-ysanthemum will produce a weight or quantity of blooms of fair size and pretty and useful quality that the prize grower of single blooms cannot approach. The latter is a man who makes one blade of Grass grow where half-a-dozen grew before, and vke versa. I could name gardeners who every year pro- duce more flowers and more weight of flower from less than a quarter of the number of plants than some of the prize growers produce from theirs, and who, in addition to supplying home wants on a liberal scale, have enablecl their em- ployers todistribute large quantities among their friends and charitable institutions besides dis- posing of as many spare blooms as nearly paid all expenses of culture. As to ladies preferring big blooms in preference to small sprays, as stated last week, I never knew either a lady or a gentleman prefer the monster bloom for per- sonal decoration unless for the fun of the thing, in the same spirit that two gentlemen wore two broad Sunflowers in their button-holes at a well- known watering-place where the writer once Jan. 11, 1890.] THE GAEDEN. 41 was, to the great amusement of the spectators. It is no use quibbling about the definition of a " natural grown " plant. We all know that that means a properly supported plant grown in a moderately symmetrical shape, in a moderate- sized pot, with a good crop of blooms of various sizes for cutting, or as a plant for a vase. That is the kind of subject that should be encouraged at exhibitions, instead of the packman's box with its cut blooms all trimmed and dressed by the horticultural milliner. — S. W. Mr. Molyneux no doubt feels himself compelled to uphold the sophistical doctrines inculcated by the champions of a system of Chrysanthemum culture, which has, in every respect, a tendency inimical to the beauty and usefulness of this flower, and at page ("i08 claims for this system "the method most generally adopted. " Allow me to inform him that I fear such a statement is not in keeping with facts, as few people attempt to produce such useless specimens, except iu the hope of obtaining remuneration for these expensive curiosities in the shape of prize-money. Mr. Molyneux tells us that the owners of gardens say "we must have large blooms of Chrysanthemums," and the gardeners say " we must grow them.'' Now my experience of the owners of gardens and gardeners in the northern counties of England is the very reverse of this ; for instance, I am only acquainted with one gardener in Yorkshire who adopts this method of culture, and he is a conspicuous exhibitor and prize-taker. I am inclined to think that, were it necessary to ascertain the actual number of " big bloom '' growers, a list of the exhibitors at the various Chrysanthemum shows would pretty nearly represent the whole, and would prove but a fraction of the thousands who hold fast to the orthodox style of natural cultivation. If the system of culture so strongly upheld by Mr. Molyneux entirely changes the distuiguish- ing features of Chrysanthemums, are there not good grounds for condemning it ? And what description are we to accept as representing the " true " colour, form, and habit of the different varieties of this flower ? I am asked, " Is Avalanche at its best an abnormal and an unnatural production ? " If I understand Mr. Molyneux rightly, he wants us to beHeve that that variety is " at its best " when grown on the lamp-post system ; but surely he ought to have substituted "at its biggest," then no one familiar with the unnatural treat- ment it must have been subjected to would hesitate to pronounce it "an abnormal and unnatural production.' In answer to his second question, I am pleased to be able to state that every lady I have spoken to regarding ' ' big blooms " has expressed her opinion of them iu the most disparaging terms, and those initiated in gardening pointed out their uselessness and the expense attached to their production. Mr. Molyneux finds fault with the term "naturally grown.' I think when a plant is placed in a pot it is then under "artificial" treatment, and, strictly speaking, is only "natural" when found in its wild .state; but horticultural language has granted a wider scope to the term, and with this license we may apply it to all plants not actually " trained to a par- ticular shape ' or denuded of their buds. As my object in growing C'hrysanthemums is to obtain large bushes and as much bloom as possible of the colours most appreciated by my employers, I insert my cuttings three in a pot and grow them on, pinching all strong shoots to e isure a sufficient number of " breaks " to make good plants, and yet have no hesitation in call ing them "naturally grown." I do not think Mr. Molyneux is justified in speaking of your correspondents as he does in his closing para- graph in the words " when writers talk about how the Japanese varieties have been ' dressed, it exposes their ignorance," as I have been an eye-witness to the "dressing" of .lapanese va- rieties on more than one occasion, and others have only spoken of these things as they found them. In my opinion, all varieties of Chrysanthe- mums with weak peduncles are worthless for decoration, ami are only useful for exhibition where they have the benefit of a board to support their heads. — J. Riddbll. In his note respecting the big-blooming Etoile de Lyon Mr. Molyneux has made it clear that he is favourable to large flowers. It is not at all dilEcnlt to understand his taking that view, and if the production of flowers for show was the sole aim of growers, there would be little to be said against Mr. Molyneux's opinion. But still there is something to be urged in that direction, first as to the question whether mere size, as found in Etoile de Lyon and similar big flowers, is not subversive of the most refined quality which so many of the smaller flowers give us; and secondly, whether blooms are not now too big to enable them to be exhibited on ordinary stands. Any lot of what are held to be fine exhibition Japanese varieties must be indeed all densely crowded on the stand, so that the full proportions of any one bloom cannot be fully seen. If it is purposed to not only grow for exhibition the new giants, but also to encourage the production of yet other new ones of the same dimensions, and perhaps larger, the condition of our exhibitions must become a pitiable one indeed. Those who hold that the main object of growing Chrysanthemums is to provide a wealth of flowers for home use neither prefer big blooms nor find them to be so serviceable as smaller fiowers, whether individual ones or borne in clusters. So far as the merit of the special blooms Mr. Molyneux exhibited at Kingston is concerned, without doubt they were of the finest form and colour the variety will produce. All that is admitted, but it does not touch the question as to the wisdom, or otherwise, of growing these gigantic flowers. — A. D. Chrysanthemum Lady Selbome. — This early flowering Japanese variety also produces good late blooms. I saw on December 23 a nice lot of blooms of this variety, which were of course highly appreciated for church and other decora- tion. The plants had been stopped once or twice to induce a bushy growth, and each shoot produced one bloom, later than usual for this variety. The branches were not well ripened in consequence of stopping and late growth. The plants were placed in gentle heat, and from every nearly node up the stem buds started into growth, which developed into neat, pure white blooms.— E. M. Chrysanthemum Golden Gem. — This is one of the very best varieties for late flowering. It is of dwarf wiry habit and remarkably free. Much the finest sprays of fiowers were produced by natur- ally grown standards, that is to say, plants not pinched back in any way, the single stems being staked uprightly and allowed to branch naturally. Some of the shoots are now clothed with medium sized, newly-opened fiowers to a length of 12 inches, and the colour being a rich bronzy yellow, it finds plenty of admirers. The flowers at first are refiexed, but as they age, the florets lose colour and fold inwards, much after the style of Margot. Golden Gem ought to become a general favourite with both private and market growers. — W. I. Chrysantliemum growings in America. — A friend of mine living in Worcester, Mass., wrote me the other day that he saw a grand sight in the greenhouses of one of the leading florists in that town while the Chrysanthemums were in bloom. The method the cultivator had adopted of growing the plants diilers somewhat from the system practised in England. The plants were growirg in beds in the hcufes wheie they had been all the summer, the growth being restricted to one stem, allowing only one bloom to develop on each plant. It is not to be wondered at that the results were most satisfactory as far as the quality of the flowers was concerned ; but what will our English growers say about the cost of production, considering that a house was required the whole year round to produce one bloom on a plant only 7 Surely there would be a possibility of saving seed from plants cultivated in this form, and under such existing conveniences they could be kept dry enough, certainly until the seed matured and ripened, which appears to be the stumbling-block in England to the production of home-saved seed. Of course, varieties that are known to be seed- producers should be chosen, but according to recent arguments, the bulk of the incurved varieties are not of this class. — E. Molyneux. STANDAED CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Those who make a point of attending Chrysanthe- mum exhibitions are familiar with the old stereo- typed standard plants that are exhibited, plants on 2J-feet or 3-feet stems, with a flat or spherical head, with the fiowers tied down flat upon it. Many of these plants show high cultivation, being frequently admirably grown and bloomed, but so long as standard plants find a place in schedules of prizes, so long will they be produced. At the Bead- ing Chrysanthemum show standard plants are in- vited, but not of the ordinary Mushroom shape, but with the head brought down in shield fashion, so that the surface may be exposed to the view of the spectator. These are both formal and unnatural in the extreme, but the reason why they are invited grown in this way is because they can be stood against the wall under the galleries of the Town Hall with, as stated above, their heads exposed to a side view. It is of no use to blame the growers for these monstrosities ; rather we should blame those who give them a place in schedules of prizes, and offer good money prizes for them. One can- not blame the growers for being allured by such a bait, and they are certain to be found growing plants in this way. When calling upon Mr. R. Owen, Castle Hill Nursery, Maidenhead, some time ago, in the month of October, I saw some standard Chrysanthemums grown in a style that appeared to me to be worthy of general adoption. They were plants, as a matter of course, on single stems, but they had been stopped when about is inches or so in height, and then allowed to break into four or five shoots. These shoots bloomed when about 2 feet or less in length. There was no attempt at training, and not a great deal of thinning out of the flowers. Treated in this way they proved use- ful for the greenhouse or conservatory. The lead- ing varieties so grown in this way were William Holmes, very fine indeed, though, as Mr. Owen said, " it wants doing," meaning thereby grown gener- ously. This variety is a general favourite, and it forms a most useful and attractive October flower- ing variety. Sarah Owen, Avalanche, and Edwin Molyneux were also very good and of great decora- tive value. All these are Japanese varieties. I think I may say of Edwin Molyneux that it pro- mises not only to make an excellent variety for decoration, but from what I have seen this season, it will make a very acceptable exhibition specimen also. It is very free blooming and a good grower, but if there is one faiUng about it, it is that the flowers come semi-double and show the yellow disc in the centre. I have no doubt but that this can be remedied by good culture. There was one good example at the Crystal Palace Chrysanthe- mum show, but I saw a better one still at a Chry- santhemum show at Hitchin. This was an admir- ably grown and flowered plant, and it was awarded the silver medal of the National Chrysanthemum Society as the best specimen plant in the exhibi- tion. I think Edwin Molyneux wiU make a capital market variety also. R. D. Chrysanthemums for specimens.— Will you kindly give me the names of six large-flowering 42 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 11, 1890. Chrysanthemums for trained specimens, and three pompons for trained specimens ? — G. W. *„* If "G. W." by large-flowering varieties means incurved sorts the following are good : Mrs. G. Rundle, Mrs. Dixon, George Glenny, John Salter, Lord Wolseley, and Prince of Wales. If Japanese sorts are meant, Bouquet Fait, Hiver Fleuri, Mons. Astorg, W. Robinson, Peter the Great, and Fair Maid of Guernsey are the best. Six good reflexcd varieties are Dr. Sharpe, Mrs. Forsyth, Peach Chris- tine, CuUingfordi, Pink Christine, and Chevalier Domage. Three good pompons are Maroon Model, White Cedo Nulli, and Golden Cedo NuUi.— E. MOLTNEUX. TRUE AND FALSE DRAWING. Below is what the Editor of the Gardeiic/s Magazine thinks of our drawings — the first horticultural ones in which the artist was allowed to draw iJowers as they are and told to draw only what he saw. Anybody who wants to see the other way can see it in the old floral periodicals, killed by The Garden, which are full of coloured lies — things as to which the gi-ower told the artist not only what he was to draw, but how he was to draw it:— The Floral ilagazine and the Florist have gone the way of monthlies, leaving nothing to take their place. The Garden, we may say, should supply the defect, but the plates in that paper, though admirably worked up as examples of printing in colour, are apt to run into the region of serious burlesque when the choice of the editor falls upon a florist's flower. Nothing appears to delight him so much as the representation of a fine subject in a state of imperfertitm. A twisted petal, a wind- mill form, and a false arrangement or general blur- ring of colours, are characters introduced in con- nection with florists' flowers that would not be recognised by florists with such defects. This is matter for lamentation, but it is consistent with the policy of our contemporary, which has ever been to favour weediness as one of the essentials of beauty. It is a grave mistake and betrays narrowness of view, for those who best understand and most earnestly admire technical perfection in florists' flowers are as ready in appreciating the beauties of those that remain uninfluenced by human agency. A florist's flower is a real flower convention- alised. Once perceive the truth and you must sub- scribe to it both as to the whole and to all the parts. A conventional decoration must be orderly, systematic, severe in line, and present a distinct harmony of colours, whether lively, rich, sombre, or neutral. A field for fancy and for bold originality will often be opened to the daring hand, but the primary laws that govern conventions in art must be obeyed, or the result will be a solecism or a monstrosity. Not unseldom do we see in the paper referred to admirably executed plates in which florists' flowers are so flagrantly abused, that we could wish the editor would avoid them alto- gether, and thus be consistent with his avowed dis- like of the entire throng. The best way to test the public view of the matter would be to start a magazine to figure the flowers in the old way. In old days the public had no choice but to take the flowers as the florist and his artist made them appear. Would they be drawn before or after the tweezers had given them its "finish?" No doubt the artist must come after the tweezers ! The gaps the old way left open to fraud were large. Consider the painted Beauty of Glazen- wood. A man brings a flower of Fortune's Yellow to the publishers of a garden periodical, who pass it on to the artist, who, taking the old rule— not to draw the flower as it actually was, but as the man wished it to be— painted a Rose as big as a Cauliflower, and with stripes like a Carnation. All the time it was only Fortune's Yellow, though that did not prevent its being sent out and largely bought as a new Rose. The same man brought to it me, and, putting a flabby bloom on the table with a few faint stripes on it, said it was in good seasons two inches broader and the stripes far more brilliant. I told him I would like to see it in that state, and would wait. He did not come back. But even where the aim was quite honest, the Roses, as flat as beefsteaks (even the leaves like tin painted green), were no credit to the grower or the artist. Our way is to grow the flower fairly well and to leave the rest to the artist, who takes his own choice as to the blooms he thinks typical of the beauty and character of the plant. But even with this true way of working we know too well the fate of drawings that p.ass, it may be, a dozen times under a printing machine to be satisfied with the result. So far from any change being attempted to justify the word "burlesque," .absolute truth to Nature is sought, and I think Mr. Moon would be as quick to see a flower in a state f)f "imperfection" as .inycine who draws or grows flowers. W. R. Societies and Exhibitions. NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM. Chrysanthemums in January are no longer novel- ties, and the show in the first month of the year has become an established custom as justified by the first exhibition held four years ago. The show that filled the Royal Aquarium with flowers on Wednesday and Thursday last was not entirely of Chrysanthemums, though more so than in previous seasons. Chinese Primulas, Cyclamens, and mis- cellaneous coUections contributed their share to a show which was worth seeing, if only to obtain some idea of the lateness of the Chrysanthemum by encouraging varieties that bloom at Christmas and preserving the flowers. No one expects exhibi- tion blooms, as judged by the November standard, in January, but there were several large flowers of the Japanese varieties. The exhibition was made up exclusively of this section, with the exception of a few flowers of the incurved varieties Lord Eversley and the proverbially late Princess Teck. It was scarcely expected that such a gathering of late flowers would have been got together, as the season of issti was unusually short, and the characteristic English weather during the past few weeks has added greatly to the difficulty of preserving flowers fit to exhibit. The first class was for a collection of flowers in bunches, and the stand of Mr. Owen, of Maiden- head, was possibly the freshest and finest in the exhibition. It is no ordinary task to get together on the Sth of January a series of flowers in the per- fection shown by him on Wednesday. The best were Lily Owen, rose and white ; Mrs. H. J. Jones, pure yellow, an exact counterpart of Ethel, and more often and appropriately called YeUow Ethel ; Golden Gem, a charming variety, yellow and reddish bronze ; Cythere, beautiful rich lake, a lovely colour; Kioto, yellow ; Jessica, white ; Mrs. Frank Thomp- son,white. Mr.J. Kipling, The Gardens, Knebworth, was second. In the other collections there were good blooms, the names of which it may be useful to mention. M. Astorg was unusually fine, and a charming white flower it is even in January, in- valuable for cutting ; Comtesse de Beauregard has a delightful pale pink shading, and throughout the brightness and freshness of the flowers was as marked as their great variety ; Mrs. Cannell, yellow ; Ralph Brooklebank, a beautiful late variety ; Gloriosum, Fair Maid of Guernsey, Meg Merrilies, Ceres, Thunberg, Roseum superbum, a lovely flower, variously shaded when unstopped ; Mile. Lacroix and Moonlight. The competition was as good for twenty-four blooms. Mr, James Brown, gardener to Mrs. Waterlow, Great Doods, Rei- gate, was first for an excellent collection of flowers of Charles Sharman, fine colour ; Golden Dragon, Yellow Ethel, and Mont Blanc, white. The other stands were poor. Mr. R. Phillip, The Deodars Gardens, Meopham, had the finest twelve Chry- santhemum blooms. There were three classes for nothing but Japanese varieties, and Mr. J. Kipling had a charming variety of kinds, the flowers fairly characteristic and delightful, bright and fresh in colour, especially such favourites as Ralph Brookle- bank, Cry Kang, Mr. H. CanneU, Moonlight, Ceres, Comtesse de Beauregard, Gloriosum, and Meg Merrilies. Stanstead White was shown well for the season in Mr. Sullivan's stand. Mr. James Brown had an excellent stand of twelve blooms, showing the now well-established yellow-flowered Sunflower, Roseum superbum, and Meg Merrilies. The arrangements of flowers in vases and epergnes are not often happy, neither were they on this occasion. The first prize vase was worth the award. The Chrysanthemum flowers, mostly of white, pink, and crimson colours, were prettily ar- ranged with graceful Grasses. Other attempts at grouping flowers were wretched failures, as lumpy as the specimen plants that disfigure the November show. One bouquet was a mass of pinkish white flowers and Mahonia foliage huddled together with the object, one would think, of showing how utterly graceless a Chrysanthemum flower can be made, even when it has the rich leaves of the Mahonia grouped with it. The rich bronzy colour of the Mahonia foliage is delightful for backing Chrysan- themum bouquets, as the contrast with the deli- cately coloured flowers is not too strong. There were very few bouquets or cut-flower arrangements even at the great November exhibition that could be praised for artistic merit. It seemed as it those who arranged them thought more of Fern fronds and a garish mass of colour than the grace, elegance, and freedom of the individual flowers. The division called miscellaneous contained principally Cyclamens and Chinese Primroses. The Cyclamens made bright blocks of colour, and Mr. Clarke, of Hounslow, won the first prize for a col- lection, with Mr. May, of Twickenham, in the second place. Mr. D. Phillips, Langley Broom, Slough, showed twelve excellent specimens. Mr. A. Carter, gardener to Alderman Evans, and Mr. T. Mursell, gardener to Mrs. Burton, Tower House, Streatham, were the principal prize-winners for Chinese Primulas. A large group of Chinese Primulas came from Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, comprising a rich selection of the best types of this winter flower. One named Progress was certificated. It is a single variety, the flower large, excellent in shape, and rich crimson ; Cannell's Pink is another single flower of a fresh and charming shade of pink. Messrs. J. Laing and Sons, Forest Hill, J. G. Drain, Southgate Nursery, Kingsland,N., and Mr. Holmes, Frampton Park Nurseries, Hackney, showed groups of miscellaneous plants, principally forced bulbs. Floral committee. — The work was soon dis- posed of. There were only two exhibits, both promising late varieties. Mr. Owen showed Kioto, a Japanese variety, the flowers not too large, in true character and rich self gold yellow, the florets irregu- larly arranged, as is proper to this section. Mr. Beckett, Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree, had flowers of Mrs. A. Waterer, quite a different style of bloom to the last mentioned. The florets are creamy white, the centre of the flower a pale greenish kind of colour, scarcely beautiful. It is a good late type and will be much grown. A meeting of Chrysanthemum growers was held on Wednesday evening, when a paper on " Are Chrysanthemums wanted at midwinter ? " was read by Mr. J. Kipling, of Knebworth. A full prize list is given in our advertising columns. A meeting of the general committee of this society was held on Monday evening last at Anderton's Hotel, Fleet Street, Mr. R. Ballantine presiding. The minutes of the former meeting having been read, Mr. Holmes announced the sad intelligence of the decease of an old member of the committee, Mr. Wm. Blake, who had left behind him a widow and some nine or ten children. It was unanimously resolved that a vote of condolence be transmitted Jax. 11, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 43 to the family. The dates suggested for the hold ing of the great Centenary Festival, viz , November 11, 12, 13, and H next, had met with the approval of the Aquarium authorities, and it was then con sidered advisable to fix the exhibition of early flowering Chrysanthemums and Dahlias for Sep- tember 10 and 11, and the one for late flowering sorts for January 7 and n, 1s9I. The judges at both these shows as far as Chrysanthemums are concerned will be Mr. Geo. Gordon and Mr. R Dian. The judges in the Dahlia classes at the September show are being settled by the National Dahlia Society, who kindly did what was neces- sary in that respect last year. The sum of £20 was voted from the funds towards prizes for Chrysanthemums at the October show to be held as one of the series which during the present year are being organised by Mr. Holmes at the Aqua- rium. Mr. Holmes intimated that all members of the National Chrysanthemum Society will be admitted to all such shows at half price upon production of their membership cards. The classes to which the £20 will be devoted are as follows : 24 Japanese in not less than 12 varieties; 12 Japanese, distinct; <5 Japanese, white, 1 variety; ij Japanese, yellow, 1 variety; 6 Japanese, any colour except white or yellow ; 12 bunches of pompons, not less than 8 varieties. Two classes for amateurs are to be in- stituted, consisting of 6 Japanese, distinct, and 6 bunches of pompons, distinct. A vote of thanks for the loan of the foliage plants lent for the pur- pose of decorating the tables and staircase at the annual dinner was accorded to Messrs. Laing and Sons, of Forest Hill, and also one to Mr. Beavan for the fruit and flowers furnished by him and his colleagues on the same occasion. New members and Fellows were elected, bringing up the roll to 691. The following societies applied for and re- ceived the benefit of affiliation : The Guildford, the Stamford and District, the Isle of Thanet, and the Auckland (N. Z.) Chrysanthemum Societies. It was resolved that the catalogue committee be empowered to proceed with the preparation of a new issue in due course. Clashing of Chrysanthemum exhibitions. ^1 think the National Chrysanthemum Society or some of the other societies ought to re-consider their dates. I find, upon looking over the list of exhibitions, that the National Chrysanthemum Society's exhibition clashes with those of Kingston, Birmingham, and many other important places. Surely this must injure the National Chrysanthe- mum Society's exhibitions to a very large extent, as many would be glad to contribute towards making the Centennial Exhibition a success by ex- hibiting, but cannot possibly be at two places at one time. I am of opinion that the National Chrysanthemum Society will be the gainers by altering their dates a week earlier. It is much easier to forward plants and blooms than to retard them. What have other growers to say upon this ? —Nero. Arranging cut flowers.— The note by 'A. H." (p. 579) on the arrangement of cut flowers is a natural outcome of the healthy fashion (which is making rapid headway) of the better and bolder treatment of plants in the flower garden. The day of inharmonious mixtures either in the garden or in the house is past. The old " posy " of flowers, into which the wealth of a whole garden was crammed, is a model to be shunned by all who have any- thing to do with the arrangement of flowers in vases. Vases in improved forms for cut flowers are now so plentiful and cheap, that there is little ex- cuse for having to cram into one a lot of different kinds of flowers which cannot by any possibility be made to harmonise well together, or to have to put up an epergnef ul with a bead 1 foot or more in diameter in a teacupful of water, and with a base so shallow as not to admit stems more than 2 ins. in length, and even with these sand barely moist must be used to keep the flowers in position. No form of vase is less suited to the welfare of cut flowers than these epergnes, and yet no form is more common. The fewer the kinds of flowers used in each vase, the better the eSect in most cases, and such flowers as Sweet Peas, Chrysanthemums, Lily of the Valley, and, in fact, more than half the things one can think of, never look so well as when put up in a vase entirely by themselves and with their own foliage. Sweet Peas cut from a good strain give a variety of harmonious colours that cannot be improved with any addition ; they should be cut with long stems, and all the buds and growth above the cut should be left entire. Of Chrysanthemums the same may be said, while no- thing but its own leaves can enhance the simple beauty of the Lily of the ^'alley. In other cases, two, three, or perhaps more kinds of flowers may be used together, but they must have some special affinity for each other and the colours must blend well together. The one thing to avoid is a mixture in which colour and form have to give way to va- riety, and simplicity to chaos.— J. C. Tallack, Livermere Park. Hampstead and Highgate ; but this is a matter affecting the whole of London. The County Council do not get possession of the fields until Lady Day next ; consequently there is yet time for the public to let their voice be heard, and their opinion of the Innovation made known. — H. J. Foley, Jannari/ 3, 1890. THE HAMPSTEAD FIELDS AND THE COUNTY COUNCIL. To THE Editor of The Standard. Sir, — I am exceedingly pleased to see in T/ie Standard of to-day a protest against the ruthless destruction of all that is beautiful and natural looking now proceeding on the newly-acquired j land at Hampstead. This has long been a favourite spot of mine, and many delightful hours have I spent there, either sketching or collecting objects of natural history, and I had hoped that when the London County Council assumed the control of it, it would have been allowed to retain its wild beauty and natural grace ; but, alas, like many others, I have only to bear the disappointment of seeing it shorn of its charms and mutilated by roadways and carriage drives. A place such as this has hitherto been, with its pro- fusion of lovely flowers and interesting insects, its melodious songsters and sweet perfumes, is a great educational means to the public, as well as a health- giving resort, and should not have been interfered with beyond the clearing away of the debris of the brickfield and rounding off of the sides of the pre- cipitous hollows made by the old excavations. We have far too much of paths, palings, and policemen in our open spaces, and not nearly enough of Nature in its pure state, and there is absolutely no reason why the ratepayers should be robbed of this last little bit of natural scenery in the district by a body of people who seem to have no eye for the artistic, and no ear for the music of the birds, especially as they will have to pay for it, and would, in the large majority of cases, rather see the land as it was. j Trusting that the " improvements " will be stopped [ before the place is ruined. — Theobald Carreras, ■Vl, Usency Crescent, Kentish Town, Jan. 2, 1890. The threatened conversion of the most beautiful meadow-path near London into a dull straight road, with kerbs and lamp-posts, raises two distinct questions : Have the County Council the right to take a piece of the land obtained for the people of London, at considerable cost of labour and money, to meet the alleged require- ments of the adjacent districts for a better means of inter-communication ? If such a means of com- munication is proved to be necessary, is the pro- posed road, connecting Well Walk with Merton Lane, the best for the purpose ? Dealing with the latter question first, a glance at the map will show that the road contemplated would attack Highgate Hill at one of its steepest gradients, and be only useful to reach the district near the hill top. It would rob the choicest part of the new land of its rural beauty, while in return it would not create a link between the most populous portions of either Hampstead or Highgate. This could be far better accomplished by continuing the present Nassington Koad, just below Parliament Hill, to a point nearly opposite St. Albans Road, Highgate ; and a road through the fields here would have the additional advantage of being far more level for the poor horses, whose sufferings on these hills are already severe enough. With regard to the first question, petitions against the new road are being signed in | Choice flowering shrubs. — I should be very much obliged if any of your readers would furnish me with a list of choice flowering shrubs — firstly, that grow and flourish best on chalk and flint soils, such as in the high parts of Hants and Wilts; secondly, of shrubs that will grow on such soils, though not perhaps in their greatest perfection ; and, thirdly, a list of shrubs it would be useless to attempt growing. Also, I should like to hear the opinion of rosarians as to the best stocks for Hybrid Perpetuals, Teas, Bourbons, kc, and if it is likely that any of the single Roses would flourish under such conditions of soil, provided care be taken to make the soil deep where required with as good loam as could be got in the neighbourhood. Would it be labour uselessly expended to import peat for a small bog garden to be made near a clear chalk stream? Any hints on the above subjects and for gardens in such situations I should be most grateful for.— D. H. G. ■Wreaths of Ivy. — Common Ivy in long wreaths is extensively and effectively used in both church tnd house decoration, and would be even more so if available in greater quantities. As it happens. Ivy may be very plentiful in various places, but yet very few long trailing or clinging young growths be found. In ojr case much of the ground among trees, shrubs, and game cover in pleasure grounds is more or less covered with Ivy, this finding its way up tree stems in all directions. Now, beautiful as Ivy-clad trees undoubtedly are, this being most marked when the trees are bare of foliage, there is a strong reason why Ivy should be checked in its earlier stages of growth, as it is liable to eventually strangle or ruin the host that entertains it. In our case, a certain number of stems are given up to the Ivy, but by far the greater portion are occasionally quite cleared of it. Whenever strong or moderately strong Ivy stems are cut through near the ground, a number of fresh young shoots soon find their way up the tree stems, and it is these when several feet long and from one year to three years old we cut for decoration. In this manner extra large bundles can be got together in a short time, and the practice of cutting down old Ivy might weU therefore be more generally adopted, even if only to ensure a good supply of long sprays. — I. Lyeaste Skinneri. — " J. J. J." tends a very good form of this Orchid, of which there are now mauy excellent varieties. It is not distinct enough for a uame. Heating a greenhouse. — I have a lean-to greenhouse about 5U feet long, half used for Peaches the other for Vines. Will you have the goodness to suggest an inexpensive way of heating solely for the requirements of the two P Both the Grapes and Peaches are for early use. — A. L. A. Fruit culture.— The Drapers' Company of the City of London have sent to the Fruiterers' Company a donation of £10.5 towards the fund initiated by Sir James Whitehead, Bait., the late Lord Mayor, who is the Master of the Guild, for the promotion of fruit culture in our homesteads and cottage gardens. The florists' laced Pink.— We have received a circular from which we learn that a committee has been formed to establish a National Pink Society, iu order "to promote the cultivation of the florists' laced and border Pinks." It is proposed to hold shows at the Royal Aquarium in June and July of the present year. BOOKS RECEIVED. " The Rosarian's Year Book for 1890." " Glenny's Illustrated Garden Almanack for 1890." Ward, Lock & Co., Salisbury Square, E.G. Names of plants. — Orchidist. — Lajlia anceps Dawsoni. IF. J. Mikhinson. — La^lia crispa. — F. P, — Azalea amoena. 44 THE GAKDEN. [Jan. 11, 1890. WOODS AND Forests. TESTING THE SOUNDNESS OF TIMBER BY TAPPING. I SEE it stated in last week's Garden that tapping the end of a tree with a hammer and listening to the vibrations at the other end will indicate even the degree of soundness of the timber. That sound and unsound trees will sound differently, tested in this way is probable, but it is not a test which I would like to rely on in purchasing timber, nor is it a test I ever saw either a forester or a timber merchant apply, even when a large number of large trees, in which soundness was the all-important consideration, were being disposed of amongst a large number of purchasers, every one of whom was probably an expert in the business. I have seen the plan only in print. Unsoundness in home-grown timber proceeds, to a large extent, from "shakes" — "ring-shakes" being the worst — when bad, rendering a tree almost worthless. But ring-shakes are only too conspicuous to the eye when the tree is down, and no test is necessary, nor would the tapping answer, as the shake will not hinder "the continuance of the vibrations. " Shaken timber may be sound in its fibres, but it cannot be cut into sound planks. " Star "-shaken trees— that is when the rents radiate out from the centre — are equally easy to teU, even when standing, by the seams in the bark, especially in Oak, no matter how long the bark has grown up. Badly star-shaken trees are said to be " shaken like a besom," and are almost worthless. " Shakes " are still a mystery, for they occur under almost all conditions of soil and situation. A tree is said to be unsound when it is unfit, from the above causes, from decay, or from being too brittle or tender for general pur- poses, and the mallet would not help any- one to determine the degree of unsoundness with any certainty. A hoUow in a tree trunk may be detected by tapping if you tap the hollow spot, not otherwise. In felled Oaks or Ash of considerable age the bottom of the trunk is often hoUow or rotten, and as it would depreciate their value to sell them in that condition, the rotten portion is usually sawn off, and the workmen, by tapping the trunk on its side, beginning at the bottom, rarely fail to insert the saw at the right spot. Shakes and decay from old branches that have come off and rotted into the trunk are really the main evils sellers have to contend with and always indicate serious damage. Be- ware of trees where starlings' nests abound, as when the holes are big enough for the starling's purpose decay extends both upwards and down- wards as a rule, and the cubic contents of the damaged parts must be reckoned off before any purchaser will look at the tree. In short, accord- ing to my experience, unsoundness in timber is only too easily detected to need the tapping process. This I am sure of at least, that I could sell any tree at its market value in which no \insoundness was visible at the ends or sides, although very old Oaks apparently sound in that way sometimes turn out when sawn up too tender and rotten for any purpose, yet these may tap solid to the axe. The fibre, it appears, is not disturbed tUl the saw passes through it, and then it faUs away almost like saw dust in some places and dry. A man who bought timber of this kind had had sixty years' experience, and said he never was more deceived by appearances in his life. Yorkshireman. Tacks were driven into the trunks of varions trees, and the distance between them accurately mea- sured. At the end of the season they were found to have neither increased nor decreased their distances. In the experiment, tree trunks were selected of all ages, from one year up to five or six, and in no case was there any change whatever noticeable. Blongation of tree trunks. — Recent experi- ments tend to show that the popular notion that the trunks o£ trees elongate is entirely erroneous. BURNING CHARCOAL. No doubt charcoal is a valuable addition to any soil, whether the plants be growing in pots or in the open. Charcoal renders the soil sweet and clean, and acts as a storehouse for the ammonia with which the plants are fed. Chrysanthemums espe- cially are the better for an abundance of charcoal mixed with the soil, as no plant with which I am acquainted, except an aquatic, requires more water at the roots than the Chrysanthemum. In many places an annual or a biennial thinning of trees or branches is necessary, and from these thinnings a supply of charcoal can be secured if a knowledge of how to make it is obtained. As we annually collect wood enough here, we always endeavour to maintain our supply of charcoal by timely burnings during the winter months when other duties do not press so heavily. It matters little what kind of wood is used, but I find Beech is the best. For convenience in burning, the wood should be cut into lengths 4 feet long, and averaging 4 inches to 6 inches in thickness. If larger pieces than these are used, there is often considerable waste through the burning of the ontsides too much at the expense of getting the central parts burnt sufficiently. Where the wood is of a mixed character it is more important that the pieces should be smaller rather than otherwise, as some sorts require more burning than others. Spruce Fir is perhaps the least desir- able kind to use, it being rather more liable to bum into ashes than charcoal. It is not necessary to dig a hole in the ground just before burning, as is sometimes practised by charcoal-burners. I make ours in the reserve ground in which are stored the manure heaps, vegetable refuse, old potting soils, &c., which reduces the labour considerably, as we make use of the materials named to assist in the burning of the charcoal. On the ground pro- ceed to lay the base of the heap, which should be, say, 6 feet in diameter. This vrill enable a good body of fire to be procured, although larger heaps can just as well be made. I mention this size to convey to those inexperienced in the matter some idea of what wood is required. In the centre we lay a small bundle of straw, covering it over with small branches ; old Pea stakes orsimilar material will answer j ust as well. This is to ignite the larger pieces of wood which are stacked up on their end in py- ramid form, building from the centre outwards, and placing the wood so that the flames can pass evenly through the whole heap. The wood may be stacked G feet high, and that measurement to 8 feet wide at the base wiU ensure a quantity of charcoal being made. When the stack is formed, commence to bank it in with partly decomposed wet manure, leaving two holes at the bottom opposite to each other on two sides of the heap. These should be large enough to admit of igniting the inside of the heap from both sides, thereby causing a current of air which assists the centre to bum more freely. Holes 1 foot square will be large enough for the pur- pose. In the case of a heap G feet high, the manure may be placed around the heap quite 4 feet high from the base, and should be quite 1 foot thick. The reason for laying it on before the fire is lighted is, that owing to the heat of the fire when once well alight, the burner cannot get near enough to place the smothering material around the heap quickly enough ; therefore as much preparation as possible before lighting the wood should be made. The straw is ignited at both sides at the same time, and in from three to four hours the whole body of wood will be sufficiently aglow as to require the whole gradually being covered up with the manure. Where much green wood is used a longer time is required for burning before covering up ; neither should all the green wood be placed together it some to be burnt is dry. If there is any susi»cion that the manure used to cover the heap is not wholly air-tight, some soil should be laid on the top to finally seal up the air passages, as air passing through or into the heap encourages the wood to blaze and bum into ashes. The holes at the bottom, too, should be blocked up last, leaving aU secure for the night. Early in the morning the fire may in places have burst through. These places should be at once covered up again. If much green wood is used more time will be needed for this to burn ; there- fore the day after lighting two or three holes should be pushed through the bank of manure with a long stick to encourage the burning of the green wood by the admission of air to these parts, allow- ing it to burn freely for a time until it is thought the whole is well alight again. Afterwards bank up the holes once more. The time it remains in the heap depends upon the kind of wood used ; where it is of a mixed nature and in a green state four or five days will be necessary to keep it smothered ; where less green, three or four days will be long enough. At the end of the time stated proceed to uncover the heap, commencing at the top to prevent the soil and manure becoming mixed with the charcoal by faUing inwards. If any signs of breaking afresh into flames occur, have water at hand to extinguish them, and gradually put out the fire as uncovering takes place, when the charcoal can be separated into two sizes by passing the fine parts through a half-inch sieve. The charcoal should be stored under cover in a dry place, as it retains its properties so much longer than when ex- posed to air and wet. I generally burn enough one year to last two seasons. The reason why we use manure for covering the fire instead of soil is that it is less likely to mix with the charcoal by falling through the wood into the fire. S. Value of crooked timber.— There are many uses for " natural crooks " on the farm. A bent timber as a brace, &c., is often convenient in a barn or other out-building. By the use of crooked timber a frame may be made much lighter and more durable than where only straight logs are used. There are many implements in which crooked timber is best, and the farmer should study to use a natural bend of a tree whenever an oppor- tunity offers. Black Birch. — The Black Birch, which is rapidly coming into favour, is a close-grained and very handsome wood, and can be easily stained to exactly resemble Walnut. It is just as easy to work, and is suitable for nearly, if not all the purposes to which Black Walnut is at present applied. Birch is of much the same colour as Cherry, but the latter wood is now very scarce, and consequently dear. When properly stained, it is almost impossible to distinguish the difference between Cherry and Walnut. In the forests throughout Ontario, Birch grows in abundance, especially if the land is not too boggy. There is a great difference in the wood of different sections. Where the land is high and dry the wood is firm and clear ; but if the land is low and wet the wood has a tendency to be soft and of a bluish colour. In all the northem regions it can be found in great abundance, and as the tree grows to such a great size, little trouble is expe- rienced in procuring it in large quantities. "The Garden" Monthly Parts.— This jmimal is ptiblUhed in neatly bound Monthly Parts. In this form the coloured 2^^atcs are best preserved^ and it is most suitable for reference previous to the issue of the half-yearly volumes. Price Is. 6c/. ; post free, Is. 9d. Complete set of volumes of The Garden /7*ont its commencement to end of 1889, thirty-six vols., l^rice, cloth, £11 : whole calf, £ii: half morocco, £ii 8s. " Farm and Home " Monthly Parts. — This joi'rnal is 2tublishLd ia neatly bfjvnd Monthly Parts, in Khich form it is yiiost suitable for reference previous to the issue of the yearly volumes. Price 5d. : post free, 8d. "Hardy Flowers.*' — Giving descriptions of upwards of thirttni hundred of the most ornamental species, vnth directions for their arrangement, culture, dx. Fourth and Popular Ed'lK'n, \s. ; post free, Is. 3rf. " The Garden Annual " for 1890. — Contains Alj>ho.hetical Lists of all Branches of the Horticultural Trade corrected vp to November 10 last. The Lists of Gardtns and Country Seats (containing over 8000J have been very carefully and extensively revised, and are admitted to be the mast complete ever published. Price Is..- by post, la. 3d. Lemdtm : 37, Semtham^tim Btratf Strand, W.C, THE GARDEN. 45 No. 948. SATURDAY, Jan. 18,1890. Vol. XXXVII. " This is an Art Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but The Art itself is Nature."— Mai-es^jt'are. Flower Garden. LILIES. I CANNOT perhaps add much that will be useful to the letters which have already ap- peared on Lily growing, but as one much interested in the subject and as having tried my hand with them, though only in a small way, for some years, 1 hazard a few notes. Of failures I have had my share, though I regret to say they have brought me no nearer to the royal road than I was at starting, and the only positive conclusion I have been able to arrive at is that Lilies are " very good where they take." In some respects I am worse ott' now than I was a few years ago, for m}' stock of Lilium speciosum, which at one time flourished exceedingly both in the open ground and in pots, has lately much dimi- nished. A Peronospora is, we are told, and rightly, I think, our worst enemy. As it works under the epidermis it is difficult to combat, but I hope to try next season whether the " Bordeaux broth " which is used for mildew in vineyards will check the disease. The question is when to apply this or other remedies. A plant may look the [licture of health one day, and next morning its leaves may have changed from bright green to a dull purplish brown. This happens after a few days of hot, close weather, or perhaps on the return of sunshine after two or three days of drizzling rain, and when the change of colour has taken place the mischief is done and remedial application.s will be too late. Possibly cutting off the stem and burn- ing it might save the bulb. The more deli- cate Lilies are by no means the only sufferers. A bed of L. bulbiferum has been badly hit this season, and on taking up the bulbs many were found discoloured and some rpiite rotten. Too much wet at the root may also be a cause of damage, and this brings me to my chief reason for writing, namely, to reply to " Delta's " inquiry about L. Humboldti. After twice purchasing bulbs which never condescended to appear above ground, I in- vested in the variety oscellatum, it being said to have a better constitution. Tliis, planted in a pot, wintered in a cold frame, and after- wards placed in the open, flowered well ; but one day, when it was at its best and the chief ornament of the drawing-room, it suddenly collapsed. Water had accidentally been allowed to stand in the saucer under the pot, and this had no doubt caused the mischief. I did what I could for the biUb, but though it has kept alive for two years since, it has never been itself again, and I hardly expect it to come up next spring. I have also raiseil same half-dozen L. Humboldti from seed. These, so far, have done well. They have flowered now for two seasons, last year strongly ; but the ominous brown appeared on the leaves about August, and I sliall look anxiously, and not witliout some misgiving, for the shoots in spring. They are planted in the open garden in sandy loam, with a consider- able addition of leaf soil and some peat. From what I have said, I think it is clear that this Lily requires good drainage. It is one of the handsomest — if not the handsomest — of the Americans I know, though I am very fond of the little L. philadelphicum, and also of L. Parryi, which last does well with me. Can anyone say what treatment will en- sure L. Wallacei flowering freely I It will increase to any extent, but except in 1887, when every liulb sent up from three to five flowering stems, it has been very shy. Last year there was not a single flower, which I attribute to the wretched summer of 1888. liy some it is set down as a variety of L. elegans or Thunbergi, but to me it seems to be nearer akin to the Tiger Lilies. Deep planting is sometimes recommended for Lilies, but I am inclined to doubt whe- ther more than 6 inches is advisable, even for those which make roots above the bulb, un- less where the summers are Ijoth warmer and longer than we can boast in North Notts. I have seen old clumps of L. candidum do- ing well when the bulbs were pushing each other out of the ground. For tlie majority the open ground is better than pots, and with, perhaps, a few exceptions, a soil holding a lair amount of moisture, but at the same time thoroughly drained, is what is wanted. Given this he will succeed best whose happy lot is cast where the zoospore abstains from troub- ling, and the oospore remains at rest. Worksop. James Snow Whall. The "Compact" Musk (Mimulus moschatus compactus). — I planted a long line of this new introduction in May last ; the plants were raised from seed sown early in the spring, and when first planted were very small. They qaickly established themselves, but although seedlings, the compact growth was excellent throughout, with no re- version to the old type. I think this Musk has a good future in store for it as an edging plant, especially where the means for keeping and propa- gating more tender things is not of the best. To the amateur and for all small gardens it will prove to be an acquisition in this respect, as it will also do by reason of its colour, which is the same as in the common kind. It will make a pleasing change to that too oft recurring plant in nearly every garden — the Golden Feather. I have not yet tested its hardiness, but have no doubt it will keep through the winter equally as well as its parent. I planted it in association with Nemophila insignis, and the effect of the two colours was all that could be desired.— J. H. Lilium candidum. — On reading the interest- ing articles in The Garden on the culture of Lilies, I thought of a cottage garden where the above grows remarkably well. It is near the sea- coast, and the soil of the garden is composed chiefly of sand. Underneath there are 2ii feet or 30 feet of sand, washed or blown there perhaps many centuries ago. But the cottager is often ahead of the gardener, so-called, with this beauti- ful Lily ; it belongs to him in a sense. Why does it do so well with him 7 In the first place, if a plant does not do well with the cottager and take care of itself for a good part of the year, then it may die. As a rule, the beds in cottage gardens are well raised above the level of the ground, thus ensuring good drainage. If there is one thing that a cottager believes in more than another, it is that the ground must not be allowed to get hard. The beds being small, there is but little treading, while ashes beingalmosttheonlythingusedforprotection, when forked in they also help to keep the ground open. Then the manure used is placed on the sur- face around the plants, and gets sweetened before it enters the soil. The above will not explain all the failures in connection with this Lily, but may be worth a little consideration. The best time to plant Lilium candidum I believe to be just after the new leaves are formed. I planted two dozen bulbs this summer in that state. It was not long before they made a good start, and they promise to do well ; the centres now are about 1 J inches long. Only once in twenty years do I remember them having lost their leaves just before flowering, and then the flowers did not entirely fail.— M. E., Corn- irall. SPRING CROCUSES. Ever since I have been interested in spring Crooi I do not remember having seen so many in flower in January as there are at the present time. The fine, open, and beautifully mild sunny weather we are having just suits the Crocuses, the beds and borders of which are as gay as they usually are a month or six weeks hence. Daring the last week the ground with the yellows and purples especially was literally covered with their wide open flowers. One of the very best is the old various- coloured C. Imperati, which, in addition to being one of the most free- flowering, is one of the easiest to manage, and flourishes where many of the others would fail. It is a good species for exposed situations, doing well under trees or amongst Grass. The best and surest for the latter situation, however rank the Grass may be, is the old C. nudiflorus. This species has escaped from gardens and naturalised itself in a few of the midland counties, where it is said to flourish and increase even under not very favour- able conditions. Its weak tube requires something to hold it up when in flower, and long Grass serves this purpose very well. The flowers are large, of a rich purple, and last a long time. C. BlLLOTTi is a comparatively rare species, a native of Kroom, near Stauros, and stands our winters well. It is nearly allied to the handsome C. a;rius, the flowers being of a rich purple with a darker blotch near the throat. C. vernus var. obovatus has the most flowers open. The blooms are very large, but of a pale washy purple, not a very striking form. C. Sieberi, a Grecian species, with its uniform bright lilac flowers, is a very de- sirable Crocus for spring beds. C. ancyrensis is a pretty little species with bright orange flowers, but it does not bloom freely. C. alatavicus, with its large white flowers coated with pale buff on the outer face, is a very striking kind and a most useful one for spring flowering. It is a native of the Ala Tau Mountains, in Central Asia, is perfectly hardy, and though it does not increase with such rapidity as C. Imperati, it appears perfectly at home. The white variety is rarer, but perhaps a less desirable Crocus. C. VITBLLINUS, found by Mrs. Danford in the Taurus, is a very bright little species, the flowers orange with no stripes. There appear to be forms with bronze markings on the outside. C. Korolkowi has a great future before it as a perfectly hardy Crocus. We have some large corms with as many as six to eight flowers, orange-yellow snft'used with brown on the outside. It is a native of Western Turkestan, and grows well almost in any situation. C. chrysanthus with the varieties fusco-tinctus and fusco-lineatus will soon be at their best. K. Pacsies from seed.— In these days of the Pansy disease, the most satisfactory method of getting up Pansies, where large numbers are re- quired, is from seed. This, of course, must be a good strain, and should be sown in l-'ebruary as early as possible in a frame with a gentle bottoni- hedt. They will be ready for pricking off in Apiil 46 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 1890. and planting out in JIay. They will commence to bloom almost immediately they are planted oat, and will continue for two or three months, no matter what the weather may be. Plants from cuttings will not do this. To those then who ad- mire Pansies in their many varied forms and wish to grow them largely, this method should commend itself, and I can assure them the results will sur- prise them if they have not tried it before, provided, as I said at the beginning, a really good strain is grown. These remarks apply with equal force to tufted Pansies. — JuAEEzr. RELIABLE LILIES. I HAVE no de.sire to decry the merits of such a fine Lily as auratum, but I have often thought that if much of the labour and expense incurred in the endeavour to coax it into longevity and vigour were given to the really hardy reliable kinds, the results would be more satisfactory to the grower and gardens would gain in attractiveness. It is only under exceptionally favourable conditions that L. auratum will last for any time in health in the open ground, and, judging from "A. D.'s" experience with bulbs raised from seed in this country, it does not seem that home-grown bulbs are likely to exhibit greater powers of endurance than imported ones. There are few more reliable and efl'ective hardy flowers than the Tiger and Orange Lilies, but I venture to assert that very few have an idea of their stately beauty when at the highest point of development. Too often they are dotted about among shrubs where they get parched .and sunburnt, and where the beauty of the flowers i^ very fleeting. Being such old inmates of our gardens, they are too often considered unworthy of the careful preparation of the soil that is accorded to many things that are not half so beautiful. In thoroughly preparing a suitable position for these Lilies one has the satisfaction of knowing what the results will be ; whereas, with all the care that may be taken with L. auratum, the results are very uncertain, and even if they are good for a season, the following one generally brings disappointment. Only let the roots have a free run into 18 inches of good loam with a position chosen with a view to shelter from high winds and the iieroest heat of the sun, and these Lilies will throw up stems as thick as a fishing-rod and to the height of a tall man. Thesizeof the flowers, too, and their colour will be in proportion to the vigour of the stems. I have seen tigrinum splendens with stems 7 feet high and with flowers in proportion. By grouping these Lilies their eft'ectiveness is much increased, and it is naturally more practicable to meet their wants than in dotting them about half-a- dozen bulbs together in the mixed border where they are liable to be disturbed ; whereas neither spade nor fork should disturb their repose when once happily placed. There is one way in which these hardy Lilies may be used, and that is in combination with hardy Azaleas. These, un- like Rhododendrons, do not grow very tall, and the Lilies have no difficulty in pushing up among them. I have seen them employed in this way and thought the arrangement admir- able, as the Azaleas bloom early, and later on the Lilies supplement them with their bright tints. With the large number of varieties of Thunbergianum and davuricum the majority of hardy flower growers are probably unacquainted, and although they are not quite so vigorous as the Orange and the Tiger Lilies, they are suffi- ciently reliable to encourage their cultivation. Many of tlie kinds may be rather too much alike, but variety is nevertheless there, and to those who may have hitherto busied themselves with the not-easily-to-be-pleased species of this family and with the scant success that appears to attend so much of the work done in this way, I would say turn your attention a little to such as will surely richly reward good cultural care. Not that I am wishful to discourage manful attempts to solve the mysteries that attend the successful growth of any Lily. We have probably much to learn about them, and some things that trouble the present generation of Lily growers may even yet be revealed to them. Many, like myself, have seen what good work has been done by Mr. Wilson in his garden at Wisley, and the only fault that one can find with him is that he does not give quite enough occupation to the printer. This famous Oakwood garden is open to all, but so many are too far from it to avail themselves of ocular demonstration. In a recent issue of The Garden "Delta" records his fail- ures in Lily culture. What a book that would be, and how invaluable to lovers of these noble hardy flowers that would contain the record of Mr. Wilson's successes and failures through the long period in which he has been growing them all the more invaluable because, as he once said, " I know now what they want." I think, however, that there will always remain something inexplicable in the likes and dislikes of some Lilies. I know, for instance, a garden where speciosum will not live. Im- ported and home-grown bulbs have been tried, all with the same result, and yet auratum thrives there with little or no care. Some old bulbs broken up and the scales thrown down at the foot of a hedge made nice bulbs. In another garden, not far distant, speciosum grows like a weed, soil apparently identical. How can such discrepancies be explained ? Is there, I wonder, a future for Lily growers that those of the present time can but dream of ? WiU there one day exist a race of Lilies varied in tint with the size and fragrance of auratum and the hardi- ness of tigrinum ? Lilies, except in rare instances, seem to have baffled the hybridiser's art in the creation of quite distinct types, and there appears to be an opinion that the mingling of certain species is out of the bounds of practicability. But Orchids were long grown before the first hybrid appeared, and that was a wonder to the horticultural world. Surely what has been done with Orchids should encourage work in the same way with Lilies. J. C. B. Arum Lilies in the open air all the year. — This Lily possesses many claims to the lover of a garden, as few plants will bear such varied treatment. I have seen the roots shaken out of the pots, and left out in full sun without the least bit of soil or covering for weeks in summer. When taken up and potted in autumn they grow as well as ever. This Lily is often met with in hothouses, being forced in a very high temperature. Last winter when visiting a friend in the neighbourhood of Bath, I observed he had some pots of this Lily standing in hot-water troughs in a temperature of 75° to 85°, in order to obtain the blooms by a given date. The plants seemed to enjoy their hot-water treatment very well, and the blooms were obtained in time. It is as a plant for open ponds and tanks that I wish to draw attention to it here. In these gardens several clumps have been standing unharmed in running water in two different positions during the whole of last winter. One position is a north one, the other is in a small pond in the centre of the kitchen garden ; here the water is continually run- ning through a pipe. In both situations the Lilies are planted from 12 inches to 18 inches deep. Al- though cut to the water-line by frost they came up again in spring. They commenced blooming this spring early in May and we could obtain blooms from them during the whole summer till destroyed by frost this autumn. The blooms are not so large as those produced from highly-fed plants in pots, but still they are very useful. There are many places where Callas would make quite a distinct and beautiful feature if planted in water. These and the Water Hawthorn (Aponogeton) associate well together. I observed this Lily blooming freely in the open in December, 1888, at Torquay. Some remarks have been made of late in The Gabden on planting out and pot culture for this Calla. My experience is, that if specimens with large leaves and large flowers are required, then planting out is the best, but if a quantity of blooms in a small space is desired then single crowns should be grown in pots. — Dorset. HAKDY FLORISTS' FLOWERS. The Gladiolus. — An extensive trade grower re- marked to me that be believed the reason of the degeneration of this fine autumn-flowering plant in England was owing to the corms being kept too long out of the ground. I cannot say whether this is so or not. Some of the corms are out of the ground quite five months, but this cannot matter much, as they are usually plump enough at the time for planting them out. Those who are thinking principally of a good array of vigorous spikes for exhibition about the end of August or early in Sep- tember will plant out from the middle of March to the second week in April in well manured and deeply trenched soil. The manure should be well decayed and at least C inches under the surface, and, what is also of much importance, the trenching should be done in the autumn when the ground is dry, and planting out ought also to be seen to in dry weather. During the present month I pot a few dozens of the varieties of G. gandaven&is that usually flower early, one bulb in the centre of a 5-inch pot, plunging the pots in a cold frame (cocoa fibre refuse is the best plunging material). These will have grown considerably by the middle of April and may be planted out at that time on a warm sheltered border. We plant out seedlings that have not flowered at any time when the weather is fine and the ground dry from the middle of February until the middle of April. The Gladio- lus is so valuable for room decoration, that every gardener is careful to have a succession of it for as long a period as possible. I may add that seedling corms not larger than an ordinary Hazel nut will produce fully developed spikes. I have had them grow 5 feet in height from such. The Pansy. — One cannot do much to these charming spring-flowering plants at present where they are planted in beds or borders, yet it will not do to leave them altogether to themselves. In frosty weather they seem to be safest, as slugs and other depredators cannot get out of the ground to feed upon the tender leaves. When a thaw comes after frost the slugs are ravenous for food, and may be found at night greedily devouring the leaves and clearing off the early flower buds. If the plants were not set out early the previous autumn, their hold of the ground will not be sufficient to prevent some of them being thrown out root and stem ; these must be pressed in again, and it may be desirable to surface-dress the ground over the roots with short decayed manure. A few of the choicest varieties of Pansies may be grown in pots, but these should have been potted into their flowering pots not later than the fiist week in October. Such plants if placed in a cold frame in a sunny sheltered position would be in flower in February. The plants should be quite near the glass, and a mat thrown over the frame on cold frosty nights will prevent the open and open- ing flowers being injured. In frames, as out of doors, a watchful eye must be kept for slugs. The Pink. — As far as the culture of the plants is concernedont of doors, there is no difference between them and the Pansies ; the treatment is the same in all respects. The forcing Pinks are very beautiful when well cultivated. 'This is, of course, a matter of the previous summer. If the plants were not grown into a goodly size last year and are now well established in pots, it is not possible to have a good head of bloom from late propagated or late potted plants. The plants should not be placed in a very high temperature at first, say 45° to 50° as a minimum to begin with, and they should be as Jan. 18, 18&0.] THE GARDEN. 47 near as possible to the glass. The severe frost has afforded us an opportunity to get ready sticks, pegs, kc, for use in the summer. The sticks should be cut out of good deal timber. Those for Carna- tions should be about 2,\ feet in length, and for Pinks 15 inches to IH inches long. We either pur- chase them ready made or cut them out of double laths ; but I have found that the laths cost about as much as we can obtain the ready-made article for. They ought to be painted green. The TuLir. — These are just pushing through the ground, and to keep them safe we have put a good layer of dry short manure over ^the surface. Our uncertain climate is about as unfavourable to Tulips as it is to most of the old garden favourites. They would take no harm, however intense the frost might be, if we could have a continued frost, but it may last for a week or less, to be followed by a period of mild growing weather which sud- denly alters again to frost, and this we can only fight against by means of artificial shelter. J. Douglas. DELPHINIUMS AND HERBACEOUS PHLOXES FROM SEED. I AM writing for the purpose of recommemling the practice of raising the foregoing flowers from seed. I know that it will be objected that the practice is scarcely required, because there are now so many fine varieties of each in cultivation that it would be very difficult to improve them, and therefore it is a work of supererogation to attempt to raise seedlings. My reply is that, notwithstanding what has just been stated, the practice is a very pleasing and in- teresting one, full of surprises, with an amount of uncertainty about the results that makes the work positively fascinating. One never knows what floral gem may come from a batch of seeds, but every raiser of seedlings should save seed only from the very best varieties, so as to make it probable that high-class flowers would result. Seed of herbaceous Phloxes and Delphiniums should be carefully gathered, dried, and kept in closely-corked bottles, because both soon lose their germinating force if exposed to the atmosphere or allowed to become damp. Both will germinate best in the open ground, and the best method of sowing is to make a ridge about 4 inches in height, draw a drill along it, and sow the seeds in spring, covering to the depth of 3 inches or so. In about two months the seeds will germinate, and as soon as the plants are large enough they should be planted out in the nursery beds, where they will flower the second year. The foregoing directions apply to both Phloxes and Delphiniums. The beauty and duration of the herbaceous Phlox as a border plant are universally acknowledged. A selection of bold and showy, as well as strong- growing varieties will be found in A. F. Barron, Duke of Sutherland, Earl of Rosslyn, Flora McNab, Gloire de Neuilly, George Grieve, John Forbes, J. K. Lord, Mme. Marie Saisson, Mme. Bonneau, Marchioness of Lome, Mrs. Turner, Perfection, Star of Bath, Souvenir de Berryer, and William Bull. It might be objected that most of the foregoing are old varieties, but they are names I took from a collection growing in the open air, and it does'not naturally follow that they are improved upon by varieties of more recent date. It is superfluous to name varieties of Delphiniums, because so many seedlings are raised and named every year ; but such remarkable advances have been made in the perennial Larkspurs of late, that I would advise any- one to get a few of the newest varieties from some raiser of note, and save seed for the purpose of raising seedlings. Raisers with limited space at command should not attempt too much. It is better to raise only fifty seedlings from a really good strain than five hundred from an indifferent one. R. I). The Lyre FIoTver(Dielytra8pectabiIis). — When encouraged to develop into a ^ood epeeimen this is a grand border plant. It occasionally gets cut by spring frosts and should be planted in sheltered situations, especially in cold districts. Last year the spring was free from severe frosts, and in several gardens near where I am writing I saw the Dielytra in grand f^Tm. — E. H. Early-flowering' Snowdrops. — I observe " E. M.," in Gakden, Jan 1, speaks of G. Elwesi opening its blooms on Dec. 23 at the foot of a south wall. On going around our grounds on Christmas Day I observed our first bloom was just opening. A week later I noticed several almost open. On the 7th of January I could have gathered a nice bunch of blooms. In our case the bulbs are situated where they obtain not a gleam of sunshine, they being under some large trees on the edge of a bank. No doubt the dry position is the cause of early blooming, as I observed that the bulbs ripened off their growth early in the season last year. Some bulbs here in the kitchen garden at the foot of an east wall will be a fortnight later in coming into bloom. — John Crook, Fordc Albey. Origin of British plant names.— The discus- sion which has taken place respecting the derivation of the common appellation of the Anemone (Wind- flower) naturally leads to a desire to know some- thing as to the origin of common or British plant names. To readers who are neither scholars nor botanists it would seem as if the term " Windflower " were given to the Anemone (of course, our native variety) because of its facility for tnrning its back to the wind when it blew hard. Is it not probable that ancient Britons called the Anemone Wind- flower, as so clearly indicating which way the wind blew, centuries before the now popular botanical appellation of Anemone was ever heard of ? There are myriads of our common flowers which have common names doubtless as old almost as the plants themselves. What more natural, then, for the unlearned to call the Campanula Bellflower, without regard to Greek roots or Latin derivations ? It would be difficult to find any connection between Viola and the ancient common term of the Pansy, Heartsease, now so generally corrupted into Pansy, and yet not nearly so pretty. How on earth did the sweet-scented large forms of Mathiola get the odd designation of Stock, or the Dianthus bar- batus. Sweet William ? How ancient also are these names. Here is a wide field for inquiry open to those who have time and means of research. It is not enough to know how old such appellations are ; what we want to leam is why so applied. That common appellations have always been popu- lar is evident from the fact that they have endured for centuries. The scholar who looked for deriva- tions of Stock or Sweet William, for instance, to Greek or Latin roots would, I think, make a grave mistake. — A. D. RAINFALL, 1889. Month. Total depth. Greatest fall in 24 hours. Number of days on which 0-1 or more f eU. Inches. Depth. Date. Jamiary 0-65 •34 9 12 February . . . l-.'iS 70 10 12 March 2-62 1-17 8 10 April 3-92 73 8 IS May 3-23 •02 24 10 June 0-43 •17 1 3 July 1-82 •40 20 12 August 2-1I- •00 9 13 September... 1-G6 •98 23 7 October ... 3-0.5 •53 27 23 November . . . 1-02 •23 24 10 December ... 1711 •42 6 15 24(55 151 William Ciivmi\ Madresfl'eld Cowrt Gardens Soot for la^wns. — I am very much surprised that soot is not more used in cleansing and renovating lawns. Lawns that arc liberally sprinkled with it at this season wUl be remarkably free from worm casts, which often prove so troublesome and unsightly, and when the soot-di-essed surface begins to grow in spring it will assume a very dark green appearance, not ob- tainable from any other dressing. Soot produces all the good results of manure without exciting an over- luxuriant growth, which is not desirable on lawns, and it should be used largely wherever real velvety lawns are desired. At this season it does not matter what the weather is when it is put on, as the moisture in the ground will soon absorb it. — J. MriR. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Galanthus Elwesi and several of the G. nivalis varieties, such as poculifonuis, &c., are now fully open, being quite a fortnight earlier than they were with us last year. G. Imperati, caucasicus, and the small- flowered, but welcome G. Fosteri are also in bloom. — K. A pretty arrangement in the greenhouse at Kew is a group of blue and blush-coloured Hyacinths, with pot plants of the Siberian Squill as an eilging. Throughout the season many choice arrangements of forced bulbs, the colours well contrasted, may be seen at Kcw. A good late Chrysanthemum is Maggie Mitchell, a Japanese variety, which is a plant of bushy habit, covered with flowers, white, suffused on the outer surface of the florets with lilac. There_ are two speiiniens of it in the temperate house at Kew, one only just coming into bloom. Callas from Se^vardstone. — Beautiful blooms of the Arum Lily (Calla ajthiopica) have been sent us liy Mr. Melles, SewarJstone Lodge, Sewardstone, the sjiathes unusually tine, and the leaves of gi-eat vigour. We should like a few details as to the culture that has produced such excellent spikes. Rhipsalis salieornioides is a curious member of a strange genus. It was introduced in 1830 from Brazil, and a plant maybe seen in bloom in the Cactus house at Kew. The habit is dense, the thin shoots terminated with yellow flowers, which are bright and showy. Those who like Cactuses should have this Rhipsalis in their collection. Iris reticulata. — Amongst this group the most noticeable just now is Iris Bakeriana. The flowers are pale blue or lilac, the tips of the sepals dark vel- vety purple with numerous spots or blotches of the same tint down the claw. The type reticulata, ever bright :ind welcome, as also I. sophonensis, a variety of inferior colour, are also in flower. — K. A good winter-flowering Honeysuckle is Louicera Standishi, which is flowering freely against the museum facing the pond in the Royal Gardens, Kcw. It is not strictly a climber, but may be so treated, and in every good garden there should be a plant or two of it. The flowers are white, deUciously scented, and produced in profusion. It may also be grown as a bush in the shrubbery. The -winter Aconite is one of the prettiest flowers in the Royal Gardens, Kew, at this season, and a good use is made of it by planting it freely on the rockery, at the foot of trees, and in the small beds planted with standard Roses. One ;bed is remark- ably beautiful. It is planted with the Siberian Dog- wood (Cornus sibirica), -whose brilliant red stems are in rich contrast to the carpet of yellow flowers on the soil. Such a simple flower as the winter Aconite deserves to be more freely planted. We can go into many good gardens without seeing a single flower of it. Galanthus -crmbrieus.— I have from several sources a Snowdrop under the name of Galanthus Umbricus.lbut which I find is only our old friend, the common Snowdrop. I am told that the bulbs were received from Italy under the above name, and suppose thoy have been collected in the district of Umbria, and sent out under that name as a new species. I have long deplored this kind of thing, as it adds to the many difficulties already existing, and may^ often be the means of retarding, rather than increasing a love for these httle hardy gems "that come before the swallow dares." — K. Apple Blenheim Orange.— Mr. Hibberd.who was, we think, unjust to the Blenheim, has, how- ever, something interesting to say about it: — The Blenheim is fastidious in respect of atmosphere as well as soil. On heavy land near Londonit rarely at - tnins to fine quality, either without or within, baviug little colour and a poor flavour. In its home and all around Oxford it is grand ; it is even more gi-and in some gardens in Hampshire, and has actually been named^Beaiity of Hantson account of the splendour of samples grown in that county in gardens near the sea. Anotiur Blenheim district is in the neighbour- hood of Reading, where it attains its largest size and finest yuality on trees that from the day they were 48 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 1890. planted to this hour have scarcely been touched by the pruning knife. We will say a little more, that it is the best Apple that grows in English soil. It must be the task of British gardeners and orchardists to overcome its slowness to bear by trial of different stocks. Early spring flowers at Long Ditton. — Narcissus minimus commenced flowering at Long Ditton on the 9th of January. Autumn-planted bnlbs of Anemone fulgens are now flowering, and a large crop of buds is expanding daily. Galanthus Elwesi has been flowering since Christmas. Winter- flowering Crocuses are most beautiful when the sun shines npon them. — P. Baer. Bramley's Apple. — We have some of this Apple from Mr. Merryweather, of Southwell, and desire to say a few words in favour of it, as a really fine late fruit, good to cook, large and handsome, keeping a rich, sharp flavour long. In a plantation we have made of the tree in not favourable ground, the growth, as compared with that of the best Apples, is the most satisfactory. Not long and over-vigorous like young Blenheims, or warped and poor like some others, but a fine, vigorous, yet balanced growth. Jasminum gracillimum is a beautiful indoor Jasmine that is not often seen growing well in our stoves, but when in full beauty there are few flowers so worthy of the name of gracillimum, or of such a sweet fragrance that pervades even a large house. There is a specimen in the stove at Kew with each of the slender branches wreathed with the white flowers, which are produced several to- gether in clusters at almost every joint in the stems. We have here a ready-made spray that only wants a little greenery to set off the purity of the flowers. The plant is in a pot and trained up one of the pillars, which it hides with its graceful growth and profusion of bloom. It is not an old species, having been introduced from Northern Borneo in 1881, and requires similar cultivation to other stove Jasmines. Double Cocoa-nut.— At a recent meeting of the Koyal Botanic Society a specimen of the double Cocoa-nut or Coco de Mer, now known to come from the Seychelles, a small group of islands in the Tropics, was presented to the museum. For some hundreds of years these nuts have been occasionally found washed up by the sea, where their extraordinary appearance, large size, and mysterious origin gave rise to many stories of miraculous virtues in the cure of diseases ; some are even said to have been sold for their weight in gold. This specimen had belonged to General Gordon, and was given by him to General Gerald Graham, by whom it was presented to the society. Epacrises.— The Epacris, like the Heath, has fallen into disfavour, but we suppose the time wiU come again when both plants will receive the at- tention that was given them a few years ago. At Kew these never have been cast out, and at the present time there is a number of the best varieties in various sized pots, some of the larger specimens showing a wealth of bloom that is most welcome at this season. The best varieties are Hyaointhi- flora, Walkeri, bright crimson ; Sunset, pale pink ; Bride, white ; Devoniensis, bright cherry-rose ; Vesta, white; Salmonea, salmony-pink ; Hyacinthi- flora candidissima, one of the best of the white kinds ; and Lady Panmure, white. E]iacrises quickly suffer from want of attention. Once the soil gets dry and the plants flag, it is diflicnlt to restore them to their former health. Snowdrops.— Here the first blooms of the common Snowdrop (Galanthus nivalis) made their appearance on January (J. We have large numbers of Snowdrops growing on the Grass, where they look weU, the Grass forming a nice setting for the foliage and flowers, which do not get splashed with soil from heavy rains as they do when the bulbs are growing in the borders. Anyone who can do so would do well to devote a spare piece of Grass to the growth of bulbous plants. The great point in their well-doing is to allow the foliage to die off naturally before mowing the Grass. It is surprising how quickly the bulbs of Snowdrops increase when not interfered with. Ours have been in their pre- sent position for fifteen years — how much longer I cannot say — and yet they show no signs of failing vigour, as they flower freely every year, requiring no attention beyond care to see that they are not disturbed in any way. — South Hants. The first Daffodil Our earliest Daffodil this season is the true Ajax minimus, now in flower along with the cyanean variety of Iris reticulata and Iris stylosa aloa. N. pallidus prjecox and N. Regina Margherita are in bud, and several Snow- drops are in full blossom, such as Galanthus Umbri- cus, G. Imperati, G. nivalis pallidus, G. Elf 33, the last a new discovery made on Mount Athos last year. Crocus Imperati, C. Sieberi, and several others are also in flower or bud. — F. W. Buebidge. The Tenby Daffodil is already in the market, which will soon be as gay as in spring by reason of the large supplies of flowers received from France and the Scilly Isles. The Tenby Daffodil is one of the sweetest flowers of its race, its exquisite shape, compact, yet not formal, and bold, rich yellow colour fitting it for many choice arrangements of cut bloom. It is more eagerly sought for than even the Paper-white Narcissus, which is, however, commoner, through greater quantities being re- ceived. The foliage of the Mahonia, rich glossy brown of various shades, is the best for using with this early Daffodil, as it is for Chrysanthemum flowers. A spray made up of the Daffodil flowers and Mahonia leaves was a happy piece of colour effect — rich, decided, yet soft and harmonious. Tulips.— Mr. Douglas, in The Garden, Jan. 4 (p. G), does not seem to have grasped my meaning when I asked where the new Tulips come from. 1 was perfectly aware that many new Tulips (seed- lings of Gesneriana) were raised annually by Tulip fanciers. But when do they ever raise one like T. vitellina ? In asking where the new Tulips were coming from I was referring to these garden hy- brids to which I have every reason to believe T. vitellina belongs, and of which, so far as I know, no authentic information is on record. We have such Tulips as elegans, fulgens, macrospila, maculata, and many others that have long been inmates of our gardens, but about the origin of which we know next to nothing, and can only guess at their pro- bable parentage. There is a vast difference between the Tulips Mr. Douglas refers to and that lately figured in The Garden. — D. K. Christmas Boses at Bromsgrove. — It is really wonderful that there are hundreds of gardens in England where the Christmas Rose is unknown. Taking all its merits into consideration, its facility of cultivation, its hardiness, its beauty, and the time of its blooming, I have no hesitation in plac- ing it in the very front rank of hardy flowers. Ever since the end of October we have had abund- ance of its pure and beautiful blossoms. The first crop came from some large plants which were lifted from the open ground and placed in large pots just outside the drawing-room windows. Find- ing the weather rather windy and generally un- favourable, I removed the pots to a cool greenhouse, where they gave a large quantity of snow-white blossoms for five weeks. By the time they had finished blooming the open-air plants were in full beauty, and gave over 400 blooms on December 21. I have now just returned home, after a fortnight's absence, and find literally thousands of flowers in perfection. The plants are in many cases 31 inches across, and almost solid sheets of flowers. Good loam, a little peat, and plenty of manure are all that they require ; once planted in this, all they ask is to be let alone. — H. M , Bromsgrove, Worcester- sk We. Iris BornmuUeri is the name of a new Iris in flower just now at Kew. It was distributed by Herr Max Leichtlin, of Baden-Baden, who is said to have received the bulbs from Armenia. I. Bom- mvilleri is very like I. persica in habit. It has the same solitary flowers, with a long tube, almost hid- den by the several overlapping spathes. The flowers, not very large, are bright orange-yellow, with brown spots on the outer segments, and slightly bearded. The three inner segments are represented by very small narrow filaments, not readily noticed when looking casually at the flowers. This is most ex- traordinary in an Iris, and is the only case known to us of the entire or almost entire abortion of the petals. It is said to be nearly if not the same as one collected by Mrs. Danford on the Cicilian Taurus and named Xiphion Danfordi;c by Mr. Baker in 187<; {Journal of Botany., page 265). It is a decided acquisition to our spring flowers. — K. Chrysanthemum shows of the future. — The discussion on big Chrysanthemums in The Garden, and the wretched way of showing the flowers generally have stirred up schedule makers and those who wish to relieve the dismal monotony of flower shows. A meeting of those interested in the Chrysanthemum was held the other day, and from the remarks of the speakers it is evident there is a strong desire to alter the lumpy style of groups and encourage what we are pleased to call naturally grown plants, in which we have the full beauty, expression, and elegance of the flower. One speaker was bold enough to say there should be a class set apart for flowers not fed and dressed. It will be interesting to see whether those who make the schedules take heed of the desire to reform the present formal style of exhibition, but it is hard to alter existing lists of classes, which remain the same from year to year, and to make even a slight altera- tion is a radical step decried by the special group who grow simply to obtain prize money. It is not their wish to interfere with the big bloom craze when it means a reduction of £ s. d. Freesias are worth a note now in the green- house at Kew, where there is a beautiful group of refracta and Leichtlini, whose flowers fill the house with a sweet fragrance. A coloured plate of refracta alba and Leichtlini major appeared in The Garden for July 29, 1882, and these are two of the best forms in cultivation. The most common and the best is refracta alba, which is usually absolutely pure white, though occasionally marked by a few violet lines, and an orange colour on the lower seg- ments of the corolla. Leichtlini has a more open throat and yellow in colour, varying in intensity, and the orange colour on the segments is deeper. F. aarea has, we believe, flowers of a deeper colour, but if in cultivation, it is little grown, and F. odorata is the same as refracta. Freesias are easily grown, but it is not everyone that seems to succeed with them. It is important to well roast the bulbs when the leafage commences to wither. Loam and peat or leaf-mould, in equal parts, with a dash of sand to keep it open, suits Freesias. Arrangements of cut flowers are not always so wanting in tastefulness and due regard to har- mony of colour as the few bouquets recently shown at the Royal Aquarium, but it is seldom flowers are well arranged and the various tints happily distri- buted. The bouquets are lumpy, containing twice the amount of material necessary, and the flowers, hidden by Fern fronds or Asparagus, fail to dis- play their individual charm and beauty. Some of the most charming arrangements are the sprays worn by ladies. Some pretty and simple designs are to be seen in the florists' windows, and espe- cially tasteful is a spray made of the deep rose- purple flowers of Helleborus abschasicus, or one of the later-flowering Hellebores, backed with the rich bronzy-red foliage of the Mahonia. The contrast of colour is quiet and pleasing, quite as much as in another " spray " made with white or cream col- oured Roses, backed with the same leaves, with here and there a Grass, so as to make a soft veil over the flowers, but not sufficiently dense to hide them. A flower much used now is the Clivia, but it must not be overdone, its strong colour mak- ing a garish and vulgar mixture, especially when used with the bold yellow of the Tenby Daffodil, an early variety in great favour at this season. A beautiful spray can be made with the Neapolitan or Marie Louise Violets, backed with the richly veined and coloured leaves of the common Ivy. The " sprays " and button-hole bouquets are quite free from the lumpiness and coarseness of the fashionable bouquet, and in very few cases is more than one flower brought into requisition. Jan. 18, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 49 THE LODOE, BROAD HINTUN. The view taken by the Rev. John A. Lloyd, vicar of the pariah, in the garden of The Lodge, Broad Hinton, Wilts, the residence of Mr. J. W. Brown, is looking eastward through an opening between some fine Firs, and shows one of the white horses of Wiltshire cut in the chalk on the Hackpen range of downs on the road to Marlborough, to commemorate the Queen's ac- cession in 1837. Box, Ash, and Beech trees do well on the chalk ; and the garden has a pleasant walk under some sheltering Beeches made gay in spring by large quantities of Snowdrops grow- ing at their roots, the trees affording a very needful protection from the keen blasts which sweep along the downs. The house and garden stand at an elevation of 030 feet above the sea, resting monuments of the Wroughtons, Sir John Glanvil, Speaker of the Short Parliament, and the great Duke of Wellington, formerly lords of the manor. Stove and Greenhouse. SANCHEZIA NOBILIS. I SHOULD much like to see the order of Acan- thads again become popular as ornaments for our stoves, and I intend from time to time to call attention to some with the hope of bringing them again to the front. It is astonishing what a bright display these plants make, and some lateral also, and are enclosed in crimson bracts at the base, the flowers themselves being tubu- lar, each some 2 inches long, and rich deep yellow in colour, the lobes at the mouth being reflexed, and the stamens exserted. The culture of the plant is very simple. The drainage must be good, and the soil should consist of turfy, light loam, good peat, and leaf-mould in about equal parts, the whole made fairly sandy. The temperature of the stove is necessary to its well-being, and the atmosphere must be well charged with moisture. In addition, a liberal supply of water should be given at the roots, and frequent syringing will be necessary to keep insects down. I am surprised that such a beautiful plant has not become a permanent resident in our stoves, and I fear at the present l<^';= •..•«v^«!- S§At^SI^4^^^^4^v^^V'-W^''-'.<^-'"^- View in the gardens at The Lodge, Broad Hinton. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph .«ent by the Rev. John A. Lloyd. and a very fine Box hedge surrounding the kitchen garden to the north-east makes an otherwise bleak aspect suitable for growing early crops. Wall fruit does not prosper, and most kinds of Apple and Pear trees are very liable to disease, seldom attaining to any great size and rapidly falling into decay as soon as the roots arrive upon the chalk. Water, as in other places of high elevation, is procured with diffi- culty, the wells averaging some 150 feet in depth. Rain-water has, therefore, to be carefully stored and sparingly used in the gardens. Five miles from the range of downs seen in the distance are the celebrated stone circles of Avebury and the enormous artificial mound called Silbury Hill, both of which interesting memorials of the past are scheduled in Sir John Lulibock's Pre- servation of Ancient Monuments Bill. In the ancient parish church hard by are some inte- may be had in bloom at all seasons, while not a few serve to brighten the stove during the dullest and most dreary months of the year. The plant named above is one of the most gorgeous of the family. It and a variegated variety named S. uobilis variegata were introduced from Ecuador about twenty-five years ago by the Messrs. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea. Both the species and its variety are identical, saving that the typical plant has rich deep green leaves, whilst those of the va- riety have a deep green ground, the mid-rib and all the primary nerves being broadly marked with bright rich yellow and the mar- gins also of the same colour. The shoots all produce a terminal spike of flowers which are very ornamental in the .species, backed by the green leaves, but in the variety the eti'ect is very striking. The panicles are terminal and moment that it stands a very fair chance of ex- termination. W. H. G. Begonia socotrana.— It is now about ten years since this Begonia was first discovered on the island of Socotra, and although a very pretty plant, I have heard frriu time to time of its being a shy bloomer, but a fine batcli grown by Mr. Bain in Sir Trevor Lawrence's garden at Barford Lodge is cow flowering most profusely and presents a charming appearance, whilst flowering: at this par- ticular season it is doubly valuable. — W. H. G. Croweas. — The flowers of the different kinds of Crowea are individually less attractive than those of some hard-wooded greenhouse plants, but what they lack in this respect is made np for by the ijuantity they bear and the length of time the plants keep on blooming. Coming in as they do during the autumn and winter months, when there is not too much bloom, is still more in their favour. 50 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 1890. To have them in an eflEeotive state through the au- tumn the plants require to be started in a little heat about the end of this month or as soon as they go out of bloom. All the sorts require to be out in freely before starting their new growth, otherwise the plants get so tall and straggling that they have an uncared-for appearance. The preceding season's shoots should be shortened to within from 4 inches to 6 inches from where they spring. Croweas are liable to suffer from the attacks of brown scale, and where this has been troublesome it will be well when all the soft shoots are removed to dip the plants in a strong solution of insecticide. A tem- perature of 50° or a little over will suffice for them. Syringe overhead once a day, and after they have broken into growth anyplantsthat requiremoreroom may be potted. They will thrive in either loam or peat but in the latter the growth is usually freer ; conse- quently where peat of good average quality, that is not too hard in texture, can be had, it is well to grow them in it. — T. B. DRACJ3NAS FOR DECORATION. Well-grown plants of Dracfenas in proportion ately small pots are always useful for decoration Where the moans exist for a proper and expe- ditious propagation of youug stock, it does not matter very materially if a few plants now and again are injured through being exposed, either in a colder atmosphere, such as the conservatory for instance, or in one that is void of humidity, as in a room. Plants that have had hard usage can be very conveniently reserved for stock, for it will rarely happen that a Draciuna is killed outright. In this respect Draciunas have an advantage over many other plants which are more sensitive to a somewhat rough treatment ; it will seldom happen that the stock of any one kind is lost with even ordinary culture. It does, however, often occur that but poor examples are seen where, with no extra pains, good or at least presentable plants might be had by careful management. It matters not what class of plants comes under our observation ; if we wish to excel in their culture and make them pro- minent features in our gardens, then we must study their requirements as to temperature, at- mospheric moisture, soils, &c., and thus work out the problem of their individual needs. When this has been done successfully, cultivation is reduced to a far more simple matter, with the result of a saving in labour and anxiety as to the future. Dracrenas that have now become leggy with no prospect of future usefulness, except in the case of a few which jierhaps may still be in good health and adapted for grouping as standards, should at this season of the year be set aside for propagation. Those having a healthy top may have that taken off and then struck in the pro- pagating pit in a brisk heat, whilst the healthy part only of the stem should be cut up for pro- pagating from eyes ; the fleshy roots will fre- quently make the best of plants, but are gene- rally slower in making a start than the eyes. I generally like to have some of each. I have found them to start well into growth whea simply plunged into or buried (more properly speaking) in Cocoa fibre refuse, which is kept always well moistened and at a high tempei'ature (80° to 85° will not be too much for them). Dracaenas may be propagated from the tops in jars of water, but it is not recommended where there is better means in a propagating pit. The chief point to aim at is that of obtaining a quick start into growth, and afterwards maintaining the same until the young plants are fairly well established in small pots. Then, unless it is urgent to press them onwards, it will be better to subject them to the usual treatment of stove plants, and thus endeavour to get the plants into character without causing them to become drawn, and with foliage that is not enduring. A well-grown Dracaena at the end of the first twelve months of its life should have retained nearly every leaf it has made; it will by that time, and in the case of most sorts, be well coloured for its kind. When the plants have well filled their first pots with roots, they should have one more shift given them, the best and strongest into fl- inch pots, the weaker ones into one size smaller. This will carry them over the first year of their existence very well, in fact, better than if in larger pots, for if a Draoiena has a superfluous amount of soil about its roots when winter comes on, many of them will decay or become unhealthy. I attribute this to the inability of the plant to assimilate the moisture in the extra amount of soil so quickly as it should do, and yet a goodly amount is needed if the plants are to be kept healthy and growing ; consequently, a plant that has well filled its pot with roots will take up this moisture in a free manner, and reap the full benefit of the same. If the plants are required for decoration whilst in a comparatively small state, see that every facility is a2"orded them of becoming well esta- blished before they are used at all ; there will not then be so much danger of the roots perish- ing by the change from their growing quarters to an atmosphere that is not so congenial to to their well-being. Insect.s. — Of insectpests the most troublesome are the white thrips, which, if left undisturbed for a little while, will sap the very life out of the ioliage, leaving it of a sickly yellow colour. These thrips generally congregate in groups until they increase to such an extent as to cover nearly all the underside of each leaf. Fumi- gation with tobacco paper, not too strong, for three nights in succession will destroy most of them ; but if time can afterwards be given to sponging each leaf carefully, then agood clearance may be made for a long time to come where a fairly moist atmosphere can be maintained. This insect is most troublesome when the plants are near to or, perhaps, just over the hot - water pipes ; in such places it in- creases rapidly. Black thrips are also very destructive, and must be well sought after before they get too numerous ; on the darkest coloured kinds this thrips is not so soon recog- nised unless a sharp watch be kept. Red spider will at times attack the foliage, but it is mostly to be found on large-sized plants, for which it either has a preference, or that plants of extra size escape the beneficial effects of the syringe more than the smaller ones. Sponging the foliage with soft soap and water in which a little sulphur has been well mixed is about the best remedy. Green-fly, when found on Dracfenas, is generally located on the leaves that are not expanded. The black-fly is, how- ever, the most troublesome and likewise the most difficult to exterminate ; this, too, will attack the unfolded leaves and very soon damage them. After a good fumigation, it is a capital plan to make a mixture of soft so.ip and tobacco water, of moderate strength only, and then with a camel's-hair brush, the points where the fly congregates may be moistened, and each plant afterwar] frame in the full sun and kept watered. By the end of July they will be growing freely, and are then taken up and potted. It is not absolutely necessary to lay them in a frame, but I And that by so doing it gives them a good start, as they make roots so freely, and in a couple of months after potting the pots are full of roots. These being of a fine hair-like nature, a little more care in watering is required than with the many winter and early spring- blooming plants. As readers of The Gabdek generally know, plants of a succulent nature are very impatient of much moisture at the roots in winter, and the Echeveria is no exception to that rule. Plants that are getting an interme- diate temperature to bring them along may of course be watered with tolerable freedom, but where the thermometer drops to below 40°, water should only be given when the soil gets dry. Departing from this rule endangers the health of the plants very seriously. J- C. B. THE PROPAGATING HOUSE. Where no provision in the shape of hot-water pipes is made for bottom-heat one is obliged to fall back on the old leaf-bed, and this in our case is built up in a house that was forraerly a small Pine stove, but now answers the triple purpose of Tomato house in late spring and summer, warm greenhouse in autumn and early winter, and propagating house from the end of January until it is no longer re- quired for that purpose. The bed is thrown out to a depth of i feet and filled in with good Oak leaves, into which a very little long litter is worked, and this, with a few inches of cocoa refuse for plung- ing, furnishes us with sufficient warmth for our purpose. When the inventory of all cuttings necessary for the summer decoration of the flower garden has been made, a note should be taken of all other plants that may be wanted for different purposes throughout the year and provi- sion made to start them. Perhaps the first to claim attention because they are often specially required are all kinds of plants adapted for table decoration. Tuberous Begonias are rapidly coming to the front for this work, and there are few more pleasing subjects for a centre bowl or vase. Varieties specially adapted for the purpose may doubtless be picked out from almost every batch of seedlings, but the better plan is to secure a few very free- flowering double-flowered forms in the scarlet, rose, and pink shades. A few of these may be started in the propagating house, and the others allowed to come on at will without the aid of artificial warmth, ensuring thereby a long season of these very useful plants. A little Gloxinia seed may be sown at the end of January, and if the seedlings are transferred to small pots as soon as they are ready they will throw some good flowers before the end of the summer. A few of such seedlings, each with four or five flowers, make a very pleasing centre piece rising from a carpet of Selaginella. A little Cyclamen seed should also be sown about the same time. The scarlet berries of Rivina humilis are sometimes handy ; this grows very quickly from seed, and may consequently be included in the list. Fine-foliaged plants also claim attention, as a lot of healthy young plants is always accept- able where there is a considerable amount of house and table decoration. The propagating house is also the receptacle for additional supplies of other plants, such as winter-flowering Begonias in variety, Bouvardias, Epiphyllums, Coronilla glanca, Eapatorium, Sparmannia and the like, that may be wanted later in the year. It is as well at this season, before the propagation is fairly started, to make a note of all the most useful things, and either increase or partially discard the stock as the case may be. No hard and fast line can be laid down, as individual requirements are necessarily very different, although I think we may take it for granted that in the majority of cases one can hardly have too many hardy plants for decoration, or for producing flowers for cutting. For this latter purpose the winter-flowering Pelargoniums must not be forgotten, and a batch of the best known and most effective varieties should be a prominent feature of the propagating house. Claremont. E. Buebell. Amomum magnificum.— On page 546 of your last vol. (December 14, 1889) you refer to this, that is, Alpinia magnifica of Roscoe and Hooker (syn., Nicolaia imperalis, Horan). Your account of it scarcely corresponds with my ex- perience of a plant brought by myself from Rio in 1878, which has since grown well with me, making barren shoots each year of over 4^ feet in height, which have not bloomed with me. I send you a drawing made at Rio of a plant in the Botanic Garden there, from which you wUl see that the growth is rather that of Hedychium than of an Alpinia, but the flowers are not terminal nor pen- dent, as in A. nutans, but rise from the ground in distinct stalks, and the foliage is of a much paler green and softer texture than that of Alpinia nutans, which blooms with me each year by the side of the Nicolaia. I am surprised that the Scitaminiie are not more cultivated in our stoves — R. Milne-Redhead, Springfield, Seedley, Man- cliester. The flowering of Camellias. — I have tried to force Camellias in November and at midwinter in a temperature of 05^ and "0°, and my experience is that the flowers do not open so freely and fully then as in a temperature of 50° or 55°. We have been cutting Camellia flowers in the conservatory here since November. At present they are very abun- dant, the old double white (alba plena) being still one of the best for general purposes. We have never applied fire-heat except to keep out frost. I have noticed that the flowers do not open so well and are not of such good substance as when allowed to develop naturally. I ha\ e also noticed that when fire-heat was applied for some weeks together the flowers opened very imperfectly compared with the shoals of massive blossoms that ajipeared in a week or two after the fire-heat was discontinued. — J. MuiB, Margavi. Chrysanthemums. MID-WINTER CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Even it we would, the National Chrysanthemum Society will not allow us to let the Chrysanthemum alone. I do not find fault with the society. It was established for the improvement of this particular flower, and although some may become very im- patient and almost hate the sight of the word Chrysanthemum, yet it is the society's business to keep it well before the public gaze. Apart from the now usual mid-winter exhibition of Chrysan- themum flowers held on the 8th and !tth inst., nothing would satisfy the restless spirit of the com- mittee but that there must be another conference meeting, which was held in the Aquarium Board room in the evening of the first day. The interest of the gathering centred in a short, but very prac- tical paper read by Mr. Kipling, who, in reading the paper, ventured to reply to the self-propounded question, " Are mid-winter Chrysanthemums re- quired ? " and of course the answer was in the affirmative. No one seems to be better qualified to discourse upon this theme than is Mr. Kipling, for he is not one of the growers of fat flowers, which, like bullocks at cattle shows, are only fit to win prizes and then die, but he specially caters for the supply of large quantities of Chrysanthemums at Christmas and for several weeks onward, and his beautiful stand of flowers at the show, naturally grown and shown on stems ranging in length from 8 inches to 10 inches, showed that he can do as well as talk. It needed no showing nor argument to prove that Chrysanthemums are needful at mid- winter. They are now, as Mr. Kipling remarked, indispensable, and also he was enabled to say that not only does he find the flowers to travel packed fully two days from Knebworth to Paris and come out (juite fresh, but also keep well afterwards in water for a fortnight. To have beautiful bright fresh flowers so enduring in winter is indeed a great gain, and shows that in all well regulated gardens Chrysanthemums should be held indispensable for greenhouse and room decoration. The Japanese varieties are generally the best for the purpose. The cuttings should be put in during March and April, as some are more precocious than others, and the plants need the protection of partial shading when stood outdoors during the heat of the day, as it is undesirable to have the wood too hard, as being conducive to early budding. The pots should also be plunged in soil or ashes to keep the sun from rendering the roots too hard and set. Placed in unheated vineries at the beginning of December and subjected to a temperature of from 45° to 50° when the buds expand, the plants should bloom not from laterals, as some have assumed, but from leading shoots for several weeks. The discussion which followed Mr. Kipling's paper was all the more interesting because in- formal, and rather took the form ot questions, to which replies were liberally furnished. If of the large number of growers present but a few would act upon the information given, the mid-winter shows of the society might be made of consider- able proportions. Just now the temptation to win prizes in November induces growers to centre their efforts upon that season, and thus we see the market glutted with bloom then, whilst it is worth ten times as much in January. On the subject of how to increase the attractiveness of the coming centenary exhibition, various diverse opinions were expressed, showing that there are many growers who would like to see some breaking away from the stereotyped methods of showing groups of plants, of trained plants and of flowers, if satisfac- tory methods could be devised. Groups, it was shown, were far too stiff and formal, and when not properly faced were often ugly. The employment, of line-foliaged plants in dressing the groups was urged. It is, however, no new suggestion. The desir- ability of so improving groups of Chrysanthemum plants at exhibitions has been strenuously advocated in The Garden for a long time. The introduction of naturally -grown plants in classes was also urged, but there seems to be some difficulty in determin- ing what is a naturally grown plant. It would be odd, with all the ability concentrated on the committee of the National Chrysanthemum Society, if some form of class could not be established, which should satisfy the requirements of those who dislike the now common method of contortion found in what are called trained plants. The diffi- culty seems rather to be in not having the will. The same difficulty was presented when Mr. Bevan not only urged the setting up of blooms in a more natural way, but even urged his case with the offer of a liberal prize to that end. There was more eagerness shown to offer objections than to present possibilities. Still, with such examples as were found in the charming stands of flowers set up by Mr. Kipling and Mr. Taylor, Sir John Lubbock's gardener, at the recent show, it does seem as if classes for blooms naturally shown ought to be established. Why not have classes for trebles set up on stems varying from 6 inches to 12 inches in length, and supported by wire or not, at the option of the exhibitor .' A grand class would be found in round baskets full of Moss and tubes, each basket containing nine whites in trebles, distinct, nine yellows, bronzes, pinks, purples, crimsons, kc, got as near to colour as could be. A dozen stch baskets would make one of the finest displays yet seen, and one which ought to be possible with some of our larger growers. It is very evident that there is a seething element ot dissatisfaction with the present methods of showing Chrysanthemums amongst growers and critics, and very soon the societies will have to take account of it. A. D. La Joyeuse. — Those who .are ordering varie- ties for flowering this year will do well to make note of La Joyeuse. There are two Chrysanthe- mums of this name ; one sent out by Boucharlat, which has a rose-salmon colour shaded violet, and the other an introduction by Delaux, white and mauve. Neither of these correspond exactly with the variety flowered at Chiswick last season under the name of La Joyeuse, as the flowers were creamy white, tinted with yellow in the centre. It is of no use for exhibition, but as a Chrysanthe- mum for cutting from it is one of the most grace- 52 THE GARDEN [Jan. 18, 1890. ful and charming things of its kind. The slender shoots bear as many as seven open flowers in elegant profusion, and the whole plant is so smothered with bloom as to hide the foliage. Late in autumn it was in full beauty, and handfuls of flowers could have been picked from a single plant. Such a va- riety as this would please ladies who want graceful sprays of bloom when the Michaelmas Daisies are over. Roseum superbum is classed as a Japanese reflexed variety, and is one of the prettiest varieties sent out by Delaux in 1S83. It has two other names, the commonest of which is Souvenir d'Haar- lem, and it was so labelled in more than one stand at the recent show of the National Chrysanthemum Society. The Intended is another of its titles. When the plant is stopped about twice, and there- fore what is called "naturally" grown, it bears very late in the autumn graceful sprays of flowers of charming colours, more so than in those for ex- hibition. It was remarkably fine last autumn in the Royal Horticultural Gardens at Chiswick, and one plant had such a profusion of rich bloom as to weigh down the stems. When we see the Chry- santhemum in this dress, it can be seen how the grace and beauty of the plant are stolen from it by high feeding and constant stopping. One spray had six fair-sized blooms of a rose-lilac colour that melts into creamy white, which shades to pale yellow— a rich medley of tints beautifully and softly blended. Ralph. Brocklebank has been one of the finest late Chrysanthemums this year, and through- o it the season the blooms of it have been in their best character. It originated with Mr. T. Wink- worth, gardener to Mr. R. Brocklebank, Childwall Hall, Lancashire, in 18sii, and on its first ap- pearance soon became a favourite. The flowers are like those of the parent in character, but of a more charming shade of colour — a soft yellow tint that agrees with the somewhat flimsy florets. The blooms at the November shows were in many cases of remarkable grace and beauty, but utterly spoilt by bad staging. They were jammed six together on a small board in which there was only space for three, the florets intermixed so as to destroy their individual expression. This season has also shown that R. Brocklebank is an invaluable late flower. It has been good everywhere. varieties. The flower.? are of fair size and creapiy white in colour, the florets towards the centre taking on a greenish tinge. It is not remarkable for either beauty of form or colour, as it is somewhat coarse and ragged ; but wlien we have so few late novelties it cannot be passed over. Several blooms shown recently were scarcely in condition. in some cool half-shaded spot for require in the hottest and driest SHORT NOTES.— CBRYSANTHEMimS. Snowrdrop is a pretty late pompon variety that is useful for cutting from at this season. The flowers are quite double, pure white and small, not larger than a halfpenny. It is also very free. Yellow Ethel or Mrs. H. .Tones, as it is some- times labelled, is the best late Chrysanthemum iu_ its line of colour. Yellow Ethel is sufficiently expressive. It is an exact countei-part of Ethel, from which it is a sport, except in colour, this being of a clear and beautiful yellow. All who like late varieties should grow it. Moonlight is one of Waterer's varieties sent out in 1885, and has been shown well this season. It has been slow in coming to the front, hut everyone should add it to their collection. It is not only late, but the flowers are large, outer florets broad, those in the centre narrower and more twisted ; the colour almost white, but with just a suspicion of yellow. Its tall growth is against it. Lord Eversley. — There are few late incurved varieties, but this is one of the best. It originated with Mr. Wildsmith, of Hecktield Gardens, in 1887, and has pure white flowers, which in their early stages have a tinge of green. They are well incurved, not too large, and exceedingly chaste. It was shown well at the recent show of the N.ational Chrysanthemum Society. Kioto, exhibited at the recent show of the National Chrysanthemum Society, is a promising late kind. The flower is of average size, not too big, the florets irregularly arranged, abundant so as to make a full, dense bloom, and rich self yellow colour, deeper than in any other late kind. It seems to be a genuine late-flowering Chrysanthemum. Mrs. A. Waterer.^This is a new late Chrysan- themum that will he added to the list of mid- winter ARE CHRYSANTHEMUMS WANTED AT MID- WINTER?* The question I have to submit for your considera- tion. Are Chrysanthemums wanted at mid-winter I might well be answered by asking another, and correlative question. Are flowers wanted at mid- winter .' But it will probably be advisable to set forth the reasons why I consider that the answer should be in the aflirmative. There are few people, I imagine, who have a taste for flowers, and thoroughly appreciate them, that would deny the necessity for having them in abundance at a season of the year which includes the festivities of Christmas and the new year. At that season, as so well known, there is the greatest demand for flowers, and it is also a matter of common know- ledge that they are then very scarce and most difficult to be had. This being the case, flowers are at mid-winter appreciated as flowers irrespective of their names. Consequently, Chrysanthemums, if they can be had at that season, are not likely to prove less welcome, or to be less appreciated by the general flower lover than the blooms of any other group of plants that could be mentioned. This is looking at the question simply from a com- mon sense point of view. We might, however, look at it from anotlier, and sentimental standpoint that, perhaps, from which the true lover and en- thusiast of the Chrysanthemum would view the matter. Most individuals have a taste— sentimental if you ^iU — or hobby tor pursuing some particular object, and as taste is not arbitrary, they have a perfect right to follow the bent of their tastes and inclina- tions so long as they do not interfere with other people. Well, the Chrysanthemum enthusiast has a taste and hobby for the cultivation of this par- ticular flower in its many phases, and I have no doubt were he asked the question, Are Chrysanthe- mums wanted at mid-winter ? he would promptly reply. Yes, and add, perhaps, at any other time they can be had. He would, I venture to say, be per- fectly justified in his answer and opinion, notwith- standing what a few individuals may say about Chrysanthemums not being wanted at this season or that season. For my part, I can say that their flowers are appreciated at all seasons of the year, even to all the year round, which I have in my practice more than abundantly proved to be possi- ble, but, perhaps, not generally quite desirable. However, at no season of the year do I find them so acceptable, so useful, and to fill so great a void as from the beginning of December to the end of January, or even later, a period of the year when there is a great dearth of other flowers, and those available are mostly forced, and produced at considerable cost and last but a little time in good condition in a cut state. It is here, then, that the usefulness of the mid-winter Chrysanthemums is clearly apparent. They step into the breach, as it were, and supply a felt want, and I claim considera- tion for them on grounds other than those of a sentimental character. They, indeed, fill a unique and useful position amongst winter-blooming plants, and from them a general demand for flowers can be met and supplied. Cultivation. The mid-winter Chrysanthemums have another, and not the least, claim to our attention. Their cultivation, as compared with those grown for autumn decoration and for exhibition, is very simple, very inexpensive, and requires from the grower only a tithe of the labour and watchful care the others demand from him. The cuttings are struck late, are a very little time on hand before they can be finally potted off, and the pots plunged * Paper read by J. Kipling, Knebworth, at Con- ference of National Chrysanthemum Society, Jan. 8. to their rims the summer, of weather water only once a day, and on dull days none whatever. As ordinary decorative bloom only is the object sought, there is no anxiety about the time the buds shall be taken, no thinning out of buds and shoots, and no feeding up with liquid manures as in the production of a few fat blooms. They will stand out of doors to the latest date possible without being injured even by a degree or two of frost, and when housed the ac- commodation of the coolest structures meets their requirements. Indeed, the Peach houses or the latest vineries, where low temperatures are neces- sary for resting the Vines and Peach trees, are the best places for housing and retarding late Chrysan- themums up to the time it is necessary to push them into bloom. When this period arrives a little warmth becomes necessary, and to this they re- spond gratefully. Lastly, I know of no class of plants that gives so large a return for the labour bestowed, the space occupied while under glass, and the little fuel needed in their production, as these mid-winter Chrysanthemums. KKBriNC4 Qualities. Not the least point in the favour of the late- blooming Chrysanthemums is the long-keeping qualities of the blooms, and their capability of en- during close packing and long journeys. With ordinary care in packing they will, on reaching their destination, come out of the box as bright and fresh as could possibly be desired. Of course, the long-keeping quality of the blooms is to a certain degree common to all the sections and under all phases of their cultivation. But I find this ciuality in the flowers greatly emphasised in the mid-winter blooms, and this, no doubt, is due to the plants having been grown under a natural system, and under the hardiest conditions possible, thus giving to the flowers a toughness and greater substance of petal. Damping of the blooms is hardly known among them, and we are therefore saved from the annojing and tantalising heartaches experienced by the exhibition bloom grower at seeing his bright- est and fondest hopes, which are centred in his biggest and fattest of blooms, crumbling away day by day. With reference to the long-keeping of the blooms, I may mention that my noble employer writes me to send nothing but Chrysanthemums, as no other flowers come to hand in so fresh and bright a condition or last so long. They invari- ably retain their freshness from a fortnight to three weeks after being sent, and I would like to ask what other cut flowers, except the Christmas Rose, will endure a two days' confinement and transit across the Channel, and yet come out fresh and bright and last for a fortnight or longer ? So much for the usefulness and I might say the import- ance of the mid-winter Chrysanthemums. Vakieties. A few remarks on the varieties that I have found to be the best to grow for the production of flowers at this season may not be uninteresting. There are three points or quaUties essential in a mid-winter or late Chrysanthemum. The first point is its late- ness to bloom, which should be natural to and in- herent in the variety. Secondly, it should have a free habit of growth and be a very free bloomer, as labour would be thrown away on a variety that would not yield liberal and adequate returns in the shape of flowers. Thirdly, the colour of the flower should show up well under both natural and arti- ficial lights. Most of our floral decorations at this season of the year have to be seen under artficial light; colour in the flowers is therefore of some im- portance, and those colours which come out well under that light are the most valuable. Whites, reds of different shades, and yellows, including deep bronzy oranges, are the best colours, while purples, lilacs, and their several shades are the worst for the purpose. The varieties which I have found to fulfil the several conditions therein enumerated are Etoile du Midi, Kajmpfer, M. C. Hubert, Meg Merrilies, and its sports Ralph Brocklebank and Countess of Lytton, Ceres, Mrs C Carey, Ethel, Yellow Ethel, Thnnberg, Jan. 18, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 53 Bonle d'Or, Moonlight, Gloriosum, Mrs. H. Cannell, and Golden Gem among the Japs ; Bonle de Neige, Snowdrop, Madame Sentir, and one or two others among the reflexed and pompon sections. In the section of the single varieties wiU be found some that are admirable for the supply of flowers at mid-winter work. Hitherto, this section has not made much advance in general favour, possibly because the Japanese varieties have been more attractive and have elbowed them out of the way at a time when blooms are so very plentiful early in the season. 1 believe, however, the most use- ful and proper position for the single Chrysanthemum will be found as a mid-winter flower. Their free- blooming and the long-lasting qualities of the flowers are not surpassed by any others, and they have in a cut state and when arranged in vases an elegance and grace all their own, and they can be looked upon at the winter season, not as Chrysan- themums, but as various coloured Marguerites. Some years since I bought the set of twelve, the first I believe Mr. Cannell sent out, and each year variety is only just setting its bude, and will bloom in February. Cuttiugs of these sorts are rooted viith the general batch, but the plants are boused about three weeks later in a cool, airy place. — L. We have to thank Messrs. Backhouse, of York, for use of electro. R. Pottek. Ferns. POLYPODIUM VULGARE VAE. TRICHOMANOIDES. Ok the many varieties we now have of the com- mon Polypody, I know of none so beautiful as the above. The origin of this variety is, I be- lieve, unknown. Certainly it does not appear to have been developed by gradation to its present perfection through the many other va- rieties, because one of the peculiarities of the plant is its occasionally developing two extreme forms of fronds on the same plant, one being an exact counterpart of the species Polypodium vulgare, found so frequently on our hedge banks. Hypoderris Browni. — This is a somewhat remarkable Kern. It is rare, although intro- duced to cultivation forty years ago. I believe this Fern is peculiar to the island of Trinidad, with which we have a constant communication, and consequently it should not remain scarce. It has somewhat the appearance of a dwarf broad-fronded Aspidium, but in the arrangement of the indusium it more closely resembles Woodsia. The fronds each grow from about 1 foot to 2 feet in length, and rise from a creeping rhizome ; the colour of the frond is pale green, and the stem is stout and reddish brown, clothed with short hairs of the same colour. The sori appear to be scattered all over the under side in a some- what irregular manner. It is not a market Fern, and this no doubt is the reason why it has not be- come popular. It requires strong heat, and enjoys has proved more and more their value for mid- winter blooming. This season they did not com- mence to bloom till the beginning of December, and they have been a perfect mass of flower up to the present date. The best varieties of the twelve are Mrs. Langtry, pinkish white, very free ; Magenta King, bright purplish rose ; Canariense, terra-cotta, very elegant ; Brunette, brick red and orange, very free and useful in a cut state ; Ellen Terry, Mrs. Killock, Monte Carlo, and Gus Harris; the two latter are very compact in growth and make excellent pot specimens. Chrysanthemum Beauty of Castlevsrood is an American variety siiuilar in character to Edwin Molyneux. The outer part of the florets is more golden than that variety, while the inner side of the florets is much paler in colour — a deep brick -red colour. It is a large, bold flower, and one likely to make a good exhi- bition variety. — K. M. Late Chrysanthemums. — Three of the latest- flowering sorts I grow are Mrs. C. Carey, white, Ethel, white, and The Khedive, rosy-purple. The last-named Polypodium vulgare var. trichomanoides. whOe the other is so wonderfully and liighly divided that it forms a most beautiful plume- like mass. In the cultivation of this plant I have found it a good plan to cut off the typical P. vulgare fronds as they appear in the spring. The plant then makes another effort and puts forth an additional crop of fronds, which are invariably those of P. trichomanoides. The plant is by no means difiBcult to grow, it only requiring a compost of rough peat, loam, leaf- mould, and sand ; if indoors, add a few nodules of vegetable charcoal to keep the compost sweet, and give abundance of water. It is, however, seen to best advantage when cultivated in shady nooks and crevices of rockwork, especially when planted a little above or on a level with the eye. I have frequently observed spores on the typical fronds, but have never been able to find any on the fronds which are so highly divided as in this variety. The best mode therefore to propagate it is by careful division. moisture in the atmosphere of the house, but I do not think it likes wetting overhead from the syrmge, as I have found its fronds turn black when thus treated. It should be carefully kept wherever found, for it is just one of those Ferns which will be wanted when Ferns again become fashionable,— G. Cheilanthes Sieberi (G. If. P.J.-The speci- men sent is a form of this plant, very near the same as I have received from the Isle of Pines ; it is also a native of Australia and New Zealand. It may be grown in a warm greenhouse, and should be potted in a mixture of rough stony soil, well drained. It is sometimes confounded with C. tenuifolia, from which, however, it is very different in its largest forms, the fronds being narrower in all cases. It is quite refreshing to find that these plants are be- coming so popular again. — W. H. Adiantum versailleuse.— This is certainly a very pretty kind, which I recently noted in first- rate condition at Messrs. Williams and Son's estab- lishment ; the fronds are beautifully crested and the 1 segments are finely divided. I had seen this plant on 54 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 1890. previous occasions, but had thought it resembled A. Luddemanianum, a form which does not appear to thrive well, but as seen now it attracts attention by its distinctness, and it Is well deserving the attention of everyone who has a liking for these tasseled and crested forms. It is said to be a crested form of the old A. cuneatum, and it is a wonderful transformation, — W. H. G. GYMNOGRAMMAS (NEUROGEAMMAS). The two plants referred to here, although desti- tute of the coloured farina so conspicuous as a rule in the members of this family, are yet plants of exquisite beauty, and are well deserving the attention of Fern lovers. These plants have been named Hemionitis, but they are more usually accorded a place in the Gymnogramma family, under the sectional name of Neuro- gramma. Under whatever name, however, they may be known, they are well deserving general cultivation. They require stove heat, potting in a mixture of peat and light loam, and plenty of drainage. Whilst enjoying a copious supply of water to their roots, they do not like water overhead from the syringe. G. KUPA is a native of the West Indies and some parts of America. I have frequently received speci- mens from the neighbourhood of Panama. The fronds are simply pinnate, the pinna; being nearly opposite, broad, and of a cheerful green. The fronds are erect and spreading, and each measures from 9 inches to 18 inches in length. It is a robust- growing plant, but it must not be syringed, as this gives it a bedraggled appearance. G. TOJIENT08A is a plant very similar to the first-named. In this species the fronds are bipin- nate, and the pinnie are not blunt-pointed, but acute and deep green. The fronds measure each from fl inches to 2 feet in height. It is a plant which I have found to be somewhat tender. It enjoys strong heat, and when so treated it thrives fairly well, but I have found that through the winter months, especially if kept somewhat cool, its fronds are very liable to break down. I think it is more plentiful than G. rufa. G. tomentosa is a native of various parts of the West Indies and Brazil, but I do not remember ever having received it from its native habitat. W. H. G. sharp pointed, and of a full deep green. I think this plant was also sent out by the Messrs. Bir- kenhead, of Sale, some five years ago. — H. Lastrea obliquata var. Germinyi. — This is another beautiful plume-like crested variety, which was introduced to commerce by M. Linden some few years ago, but it has not become generally known. Its black-green stems and rich green fronds, which are crested on the apex and on the points of all the pinnie, render it a very beautiful plant. The typical L. obliquata is a native of New Caledonia, but this plant is a native of the Malay Islands, and djifers from the species in being nearly smooth on the under side, whilst the species is very scaly. It further differs in the points being all crested. It is a beautiful free-growing plant for the warm house. H. G. Polystichum Kichardsi multifidum. — This is one of the prettiest crested Kerns I know. Its fronds are long and ample, and the ends of the pinnas and the apex of the frond are distinctly crested, and this, too, without any malformation whatever. This plant, which comes from New Zea- land, I am told, is one of the prettiest of greenhouse Ferns.— W. Asplenium Adiautum-nigrum grandiceps (J. Thomas) — This is the name of the specimen sent ; it is a very pretty form of the black Spleen- wort, and it has been well grown. I remember some years ago having this plant, and having great trouble with it ; it was too warm for it, I suppose, for it was constantly smothered with thrips. J. Thomas would greatly oblige by stating under what conditions his plant has been grown. — W. H. G. Adiantum Mariesi is a very pretty species of Maiden-hair. I recently noted a very handsome plant of this form, which was, I think, sent out by the Messrs. Birkenhead, of Sale, about five years ago ; it has somewhat the appearance of A. Capillus- veneris, but the fronds are more branching and robust, and the ultimate segments are more distinctly wedge-shaped. I am not aware as to its origin, but can confidently recommend it as a very beautiful and pleasing plant.— G. Adiantum Neo-Caledonise.— This is a new species of Maiden-hair Fern of a very pleasing and striking appearance, and one that was certificated by the Royal Horticultural Society during the time when Mr. Thomas Moore was amongst us, so that we have his authority for its being a new plant ; it is of robust habit, the fronds being tripin- nate, the pinnules very much attenuated and The Orchard. GRAFTING OLD APPLE TREES. Whil.st the Fruiterers' Company is sending round the hat for, to that body, the paltry sum of £5000, the interest upon which is to be given away in prizes for well-managed orchards, it may be well to remind the proprietors of old plantations that the shortest cut to fame lies in re-grafting sound, healthy, but inferior sorts with the cream of the choice varieties which do well in their locality. The finest and most profitable crops in the future no doubt will be gathered from young trees worked on dwarfing stocks, planted upon modern lines in soils and situations which just suit them, and these in due course will compensate for the removal of very old plantations which will not pay for grafting. Of these it is xmnecessary to write one word, as they can have no part in winning prizes or being profitable, but in this and aU other great Apple counties there are thousands of younger trees which will give a good return if properly managed. It is as yet too early to graft ; not so to make a selection of good scions, which should be taken off healthy trees and heeled in where they will remain dormant until the sap in the stocks is in motion. When this stage is reached and not before, the grafts must be attached, and in about three years they will commence bearing. The stocks meantime must be prepared by partial heading back, and, considering that the buds are unusually forward, I may say this work should be performed not later than the first week in February ; if a fort- night earlier so much the better. The opera- tion of preparing and attaching the scions is purely mechanical, but the preparation of the stock entails care and forethought. A man, for instance, may head hard back, leaving a dozen large stumps minus spurs, and although each stump may take four scions it may fail, the stock having been too much for it ; but if smaller branches to the number of fifty are shortened for the reception of one or two grafts each, with a few sap-drawing and possibly fruit-producing spurs behind them, the result may be quite satisfactory. Some old grafters in this lo- cality trim off every bit of spur wood and polish up their stocks until they are as bare as line posts, and when remonstrated with they say, "Oh, this is my plan; if you wish all this rubbish retained, you must take the responsibOity. " I have taken that load upon myself, and in all cases have secured the best results where a great number of small branches have been worked and the back spray has run riot the first, and in some cases the second season. All old spurs and spray at head- ing time then should be left as aids to the roots, and, mindful of the fact that each branch must be still further shortened when the time for grafting arrives, enough and a little to spare should be retained for the convenience of the operator. Where trees are headed back they should be thoroughly cleansed with soapsuds, brine, or lime water to free them from parasites and insects, and the better to ensure a clean start, the wood used for grafts should be dipped in a strong insecticide. Grafting, as I have observed, being purely mechanical, is not so diflicult as many people imagine, but it must be performed at the proper time, viz., just when the buds on the back spurs are ready for bursting. The scions, having been kept half buried In cool moist soil, should be deftly cut to fit the space prepared for them, the exact union of the two on one side at least being imperative. If yearling wood is used the scions must be tightly tied in, but when older pieces are let in with the saw, ligatures are not neces- sary. In either case all freshly cut surfaces should be well covered with grafting wax or a mixture of cow manure and clay, the latter, as a rule, being used in old orchards. The selection of sorts is a matter into which I need not enter, but, assuming that the Blenheim, Ribston, or Cox's Orange Pippins are good in the locality, these are the varieties I should introduce iu preference to others. If the second were too tender or subject to canker, Claygate Pearmain might do well, as it is very hardy, a sure cropper, and superb for late cooking or dessert jjurposes. W. C. TASMANIAN, AUSTRALIAN, AND NEW ZEALAND APPLES AND PEARS. In the cultivation of Apples and Pears these colonies (more particularly Tasmania) are making groat strides. The object of their increased production is to enable them to en- large their consignments to England, to our Indian Empire, and to America. Their ship- ments have hitherto proved tolerably remunera- tive, and there is no doubt but that the efforts they are now making to improve their method of packing, etc., will be attended with a further measure of success. Es- pecially will this be so, as in addition to the fine varieties they already have, some growers .are introducing other choice kinds well , adapted for shipment, such, for example, as Cox's Orange Pippin, Ribston Pippin, and P.len- heim Orange. Pears will also be shipped to this country with advantage to the producer. Easter Beurrif', Chaumontel, Winter Nelis, Doyenne du Comice, and some other choice kinds are well suited for this purpose. Glou Morceau is another valu- able kind, but whether it will stand the journey is questionable ; it is worth trying. The Vicar of Winkfield has been tried, but it is a common Pear, not wanted here, and besides it does not bear the journey. Our principal steamship companies recognising the importance of the trade, and foreseeing the commerce which will result from the extended Apple and Pear cultivation which is taking place, are offer- ing f.acilities both as regards cool chambers (regulated to a suitable temperature) and freight to meet the requirements of all. The antipodean season being the reverse of ours, shipmemts of the new crop arrive here early in April, and continue until nearly the end of June. The pas- sage to this country occupies only from five to six weeks. The temperature of the cool chambers found most suitable is 40°, and no time is lost on the arrival of the vessels in discharging their cargo, and a very short interval occurs between the ships being docked and the public auction in Covent Garden. Owing to the comparative failure of the Apple crop in Europe and America Jan. 18, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 55 this season, large shipments will be made to this country from the Antipodes. The above particulars are communicated by the well-known firm of J. W. Draper and Son, Covent Garden, London, who perhaps receive larger consignments of fruit from our colonies, America and the Continent than any other house. OVER-ZEALOUS PRUNING. MoEE often than not orchard trees are ranch neglected, anything in the shape of thinning out not being attempted till perhaps it becomes abso- lutely necessary to cut several fagots of wood out of each large tree. Occasionally, however, the other extreme is reached — too much attention in the way of close pruning being resorted to — this being especially the case where the owner of a tew trees takes an active interest in the matter. During the past three seasons I have been watching an ex- periment on several very large standard Apple trees, and as it has proved what I fully expected would be the case, a good instance of what to avoid in pruning, I propose to describe it for the benefit of inexperienced readers of The Garden. Early in January, 18s7, the owner of these trees had them freely thinned out, the whole of the best placed reserved branches being also well shortened back, so much so that I fully expected the inten- tion was to graft the whole of them vrith a superior variety of Apple, but such was not the case. During the following summer all the shortened branches broke strongly, and the tree became well furnished with stout, yet apparently well ripened shoots varying from IS inches to 3 feet in length. So far good. Unfortunately, the next step decided upon was to lightly thin out these young branches, those preserved being cut back to about half their length. This was a very great mistake. If the branches had been left to their full length, not even their tips being removed, the greater portion would have formed fruit-buds throughout their length during the following year, and next season there would have been a good chance of a full crop. As it is, all the pruned branches broke strongly, and at the present time there is quite a thicket of young shoots all over the tree, and few, if any, flower- buds. I am a little cmrious to see what the next step will be, but if the owner is not content with merely thinning out the shoots, but must needs spur them all back to near their start- ing point, yet another season will most probably be lost. In this district there are several old orchards in a much neglected state. It is true the greater por- tion of the trees are of little value other than for producing cider fruit, but even in this case they would repay for a certain amount of intelligent labour expended on them. Not only are the trees running into each other all round, but they are also in many instances a mass of spindly growth. What crops they bear are produced on the upper surface of the trees only, and there is usually either a great abundance of very small fruit or none at all. Much of the underwood might well be cleanly sawn or cut out and the remainder freely thinned out. Extra long branches ought to be fore-shortened, that is to say. cut well back to better placed inner branches, thus keeping the trees within proper limits, as well as admitting more light and air. Much stunted or, it may be, cankered old branches rarely produce good fruit, but if these during the course of two or three annual prunings are gradually cut back to about half their length, the trees, if in fairly good health, will eventually become well clothed with young free-beating growth without the loss of a crop for a season or two. It has frequently been pointed out how quickly the character of a fruit tree may be changed by grafting a superior variety on it. There is no necessity nor wisdom in cutting a tree down to the main limbs in order to graft these, the better plan being to shorten all the younger branches to near where they are about 4 inches in diameter, the grafts being inserted in these. In this manner a large tree of a poor variety of Apple might be quickly clothed with branches, say of Blenheim Orange, this being much the quickest way of obtaining a good crop of this undoubtedly very valuable, but, in its earlier stages of growth, shy-bearing sort. I. M. H. EXTENSION TBAINED APPLES AND PEARS ON DWARFING STOCKS. HowE\EK anomalous grafting to check growth and training to encourage it may appear, there exists but little doubt that this is the plan which must be adopted by fruit growers who wish to secure lieavy crops of Apples and Pears and keep their trees going for a number of years. The growth, it is true, is slow, but it is sure, and, provided the crops are judiciously thinned, most beautiful specimens may be made quite perfect in all their parts. Some years ago I planted | a number of pyramids and bushes worked on the Doucin stock, and my pruner kept them in admirable form Ijy the use of the knife, but getting tired of seeing prim ex- amples the exact counterpart of each other, I determined upon cutting out a portion of the branches and allowing the others to go. Each of these principal branches is regularly spurred in true cordon fashion, and each winter the spurs are thinned, but the leading points are left full length, provided their strength does not endanger the balance of the trees, in which case they are more or less tipped, with the result that they extend about 1 foot each way in the course of the summer. The result has been highly satisfactory, as they crop profusely in average Apple seasons, and trees which not only chafed under the use of the knife, but showed unmistakable signs of canker, are now fertile, and make young wood quite free from this troublesome disease. Well pleased with these sets of trees, I have planted Cox's Orange Pip- pin, Ribston Pippin, Claygate Pearmain, Cox's Pomona, that grand Apple Striped Beaiifin, and others in fifties, and although on a weaker Paradise stock they are making model heads, and many of them will not be touched by the knife. The soil in which these trees are grow- ing is a good heavy kitchen garden loam made friable by a liberal admixture of ashes from the rubbish yard fires ; they stand 6 feet from row to row, 4 feet from tree to tree, and eventually each alternate tree will be lifted and trans- planted to fresh ground. The main points in the management of all miniature trees are the selection, where rents are low, of suitable ground in a clear atmosphere away from towns, planting with healthy maidens which have not been cut back, enrichment by trenching in fer- tilisers for a preparatory crop, say of early Po- tatoes, and keeping all the manure on the sur- face in the form of a heavy mulch, washed in by copious supplies of water throughout the season of growth. Pruning, as I have already remarked, should be limited to the suppression of gross shoots, and thinning out, as a matter of course, where they are likely to become too close together ; whilst cleansing may be accom- plished by frequent syringing with home-made soapsuds, containing the usual quantum of wash- ing soda. Pears on the Quince stock should be earthed up to the working with rich compost consisting of burnt refuse, lime rubble, and loam, and over this a heavy mulch of thoroughly good manure. In the selection of maidens for this mode of culture, preference, I may say, should be given to those which are worked close to the ground, first, to ensure roots from the scion ; and second, to keep those of the stock within the influence of solar heat. When thoroughly established in good loamy soils Pears on the Quince will stand a heavy mulch every year, and sewage water ad lib. throughout the season of growth. The mulching in course of time may get too high, but this may be prevented by lightly forking up and raking off the old before the fresh manure is applied. The trees, again, like Apples, must be kept in balance by the pinching of gross shoots in July and thinning out where too thick in winter, also by spur- pruning, as the best Pears are obtained from spurs composed of a few bold, well-ripened buds. I'he shoots of most varieties will grow nearly vertical at first, but when they commence bear- ing, the weight of the crop will cause them to droop in good seasons to an extent which will necessitate support. W. C. Destroyers. THE INCREASE OF INSECT PESTS. As a proof of how insect pests spread, I may quote a communication from a Mr. Maskell to the U/Uo- niolui/ical Montldy Magazine on one of the Cocoid.'e (Icerya purchasi), nearly allied to the mealy bug, and its enemies. He says, " The matter is more interesting to us in the South Seas, to fruit growers in California, or at the Cape of Good Hope than it is to English horticulturists, who will not ever, I hope, have an opportunity of knowing practically what Icerya is capable of in the way of destruc- tion. It might be a new experience to some of them to »ee, as I did a couple of months ago, a gro\e of Wattle trees (Acacia sp), none of which was under 30 feet high, and many of them 50 feet, standing up, nothing but bare trunks, killed stone dead by Iceryas, not one of which had been known in the locality eight years ago, and yet at the time of my visit only a few leery a3 were to be found in the neighbourhood ; one had to look about and hunt for specimens where, say in ISsii or 1887, there were millions. This insect first appeared in New Zealand about 1877, and had not reached the lo- cality of which I speak until 1S81, had increased in five years so much as to cover profusely the vegeta- tion, had killed amongst others the grove of Wattles, and bad then in two or three years more suddenly decreased in numbers until it is no longer plentiful. The reason of this decrease is certainly not want of food, for this pest is practically omni- vorous, and there is any quantity of vegetable nutriment available for it. What has brought about the improvement has been the native enemy, a species of Coccinella " (a beetle belonging to the same genus as our ladybirds). I am sure all horti- culturists will join in Mr. Maskell's hope that we may never know practically what this pest is capable of in the way of destruction, and I do not suppose we shall on account of the difference in climate, unless it got a footing in our greenhouses. The " stitch in time " is a very true proverb, and never more so than when dealing with insect pests. They should never be passed over because they are so few that it is not worth while to trouble about them. Who knows what numbers may be had from the few in a fortnight's time .' As soon as they are noticed, a sharp look out should be kept for them, and means at once taken to destroy them. The destruction of the Icerya by the Coccinella is an- other proof of the balance which Nature keeps when left alone. Some creatures may under par- ticularly favourable circumstances increase enor- mously for a time, but then its foes increase and its numbers are reduced to perhaps below its average proportions. When we unraturally grow plants under glass and they are attacked by insect pests, we must destroy them onr.'elves, as the natural enemies cannot get at them, and are very likely hundreds of miles away. G. S. S. Woodlice eating Mushrooms.— Can ycu tell me what animal eats these Mushrooms ' There are no mice in the place, and the cnly living Ihirg seems to be woodlice. There are two beds, and in both when a tiny Mushroom appears it is immt- 56 THE GARDEN [Jan. 18, 1890. diately eaten. This is onr second crop. Oar first crop flourished and bore well. Can yon account for it and help me with a preventive?— E. T. Bikch. *,* In reply to the above, the woodlice are no doubt the culprits, and are old offenders in this respect. Trap them by laying small garden pots on their sides half full of dry Moss, and a piece of Potato or Apple at the bottom. Examine them every morning and shake the woodlice into boiling water. Pour boiling water into any places where they congregate. They are difficult creatures to exterminate, and much perseverance is necessary. — G. S. S. tar or parafiin oil should be thrust in and the en- trance tightly closed with clay, or a piece of cyanide of potassium stuck on to the end of a piece of clay in the form of a lead pencil may be pushed in as far as possible and the hole filled tightly with clay. — G. S. S. MOLES IN GARDENS. "R. D." has some very sensible remarks on the above at p. (JO.j. There can be no doubt that moles are always injurious —mostly intolerable — in gar- dens. Those who, like"R. D.'s" Essex clergyman, have a craze in favour of moles are most unneighbourly neighbours. I had such a one, a farmer, who allowed the moles to honeycomb his Grass meadows that bounded a portion of our garden. The effect upon garden crops and prospects was most disastrous. Whole crops of the Cabbage tribe. Peas, Carrots, Onions, and seeds were simply wrecked again and again. The havoc among flowers in bed and border was simply ruinous. The farmer said we, too, had wireworms, and the more moles the fewer worms. But as we had always had goiid crops before the raids of his moles, we could could not see it in his light. We therefore set to work on the moles, inside and outside the garden, with the result that our usual good crops returned. Where moles are plentiful and labour and patience also abound, a good many may be caught by watch- ing for their working times and throwing them out, as advised by " R. D." The interval between their spells of work is mostly about four hours, so that it is easy to time the chances of throwing them out. But the practice needs much caution and great expertness in execution to render ic successful. The mole's sense of hearing seems marvellously acute ; hence a soft footfall is the first step to success. Then the thrust of the spade must be sudden, well directed, and sufficiently deep to underbnrrow the mole. Then he must be thrown out, quick as thought pitched up in the air, when the fall suffices to kill the mole. Either the shock or the fall mostly suffices for this purpose, as the mole is very easily killed, and in any case is pecu- liarly helpless and easily destroyed on the surface. Even the most expert digger-out of moles must, however, be prepared to draw many blanks, as, while few living things are more helpless on the surface, none are more prompt or fertile in resources of escape underground. D. T. F. Maggots in Apple-tree branch.— Enclosed for your inspection is a piece of a branch from an Apple tree, in which you will find a large maggot, it being the second one found on the same tree. It is doing considerable damage, having eaten or bored a hole up through the centre of a stout branch. The first one was much larger. We have in the garden here a large variety of Apple and other fruit trees, but only on this one tree, viz.. Cox's Orange Pippin, have they been found. Kindly give me the name of the maggot, and whether a new pest to the fruit tree. — W. H. C. *^.* In reply to the above, the maggots infesting your Apple tree are the caterpillars of the wood leopard moth (Zeuzera sesculi), a by no means un- common insect whose caterpillars live in the branches of various trees, but the Apple is their particular favourite. When a small branch, such as that you sent, is attacked, it is better to cut it off below the insect, split it open and kill the caterpillars, as there is no chance of its living after being bored. A larger bough should be ex- amined and the entrance to the burrow found. A flexible wire with a sharp point should then be pushed into the hole with a view of stabbing the caterpillar with it ; if the caterpillar cannot be reached in this way a piece of tow saturated with IS THE HOLLYHOCK DISEASE CURABLE 7 I SHOULD be sorry to damp the ardour of " San- guinea," but bitter and oft-repeated disappointments compel me to answer his question in the negative. For many years Hollyhocks were our most telling feature ; they suited our terrace walls and relieved the flatness of our flat and formal style. Through the simple]device of saving our finest strains and purchas- ing a package of the finest seeds annually, our stock had reached a high level of excellence. In an evil hour we begged some cuttings of some specially choice, but also vigorous varieties. The next season the American disease invaded us. For a few weeks it confined itself to the strange strains. From there it advanced with leaps and bounds until the whole stock was attacked. Its progress was so rapid and the disease proved so virulent, that the wrecked stalks were cut down and burned, and as many as possible of the diseased leaves picked off. The surface soil was also removed, a top dressing of manure given, and the roots thoroughly soaked with house sewage. Throughout the late autumn many of the plants responded hopefully to this stimulating culture, making vigorous and apparently healthy growth. But the next summer we had scarcely a spike worth looking at or a clean plant in the garden or pleasure ground. We felt the shock severely, the Hollyhocks leaving a void that nothing could fill in the garden or landscape, and we determined to adopt the most radical measure of uprooting and burn- ing the entire stock, removing all the old soil, and starting with fresh strains and some plants from a distance. This is more than a dozen years since, and the result was that the last state of our Hollyhocks was far worse than the first. In fact, in all our future trials we have never found a strain comparable in vigour and beauty to the original one that we had grown for so many years. After several bitter failures with fresh plants on maiden soils and sites we determined to starve out the pest by growing none. But this seems hopeless ; for after intervals of two or three years we have tried again, and hardly have the plants been planted, and not once bloomed, with- out the disease establishing itself. Only last season we tried again, and I regret to say that at the present moment we have not a clean nor a pro- mising Hollyhock in the grounds. The irresistible logic of facts has, therefore, driven me to the hopeless conclusion that where the Hollyhock disease has once established itself it is incurable by the skill or wit of man. Sulphur is of no use, neither is paraffin oil nor other dressings, and my experience of late years is that there are no Hollyhocks in the county quite free from the ravages of this dire destroyer. True, they are not all equally infested. Far from it. In some sites and soils the fell destroyer's power is held in check through influences and forces that are absent from other places. Hence, here and there we find Hollyhocks, occasionally, too, almost within sight of those destroyed, over and over again growing and blooming fairly well, though seldom up to the old standards reached at Saffron Walden or elsewhere But no sooner are these moved from their relatively safe localities and planted on those on which the plague of this disease has rested heavily, than the plague follows as a matter of course. There are two causes for this. One is probably that the germs of the old disease lurk and lie in wait in the old lairs to see if any new plants may turn up. The other is that the new plants themselves are already attacked with the disease in embryo. Only last year I was advised of a perfectly clean collection of Hollyhocks in certain grounds. I went, saw, and left them where they were, as they were full of the fungus in a semi-sup- pressed condition. Like most, perhaps all, other fungoid pests, the Hollyhock disease needs two conditions for its active destructive development — the presence of the spores in the earth, air, water, or physical environment of the site, and possibly these now exist everywhere, and a certain subtle something in the vital condition or physical or other surroundings of the plants that enables the disease to master them or the plants to master the disease, or, rather, hold it more or less in check. Further, it seems that whatever those fostering or restraining forces may be, they cannot be relied upon to protect the plants from this destructive pest in districts where it has once obtained full sway, and successive crops of Hollyhocks have been swept off through a series of seasons. D. T. F. Garden Flora. PLATE 736 ROSE DOCTEUR GRILL.* Year by year Continental Rose raisers favour us with long lists of novelties, and although many of these new kinds never come into cultivation, yet with such a variety to select from, the labour of raisers would indeed be vain and discouraging if a trial did not result in the finding of some new kind possessing merit and distinctive qualities differing from, liut equal to those of other good Roses. Each year sees a few new sorts that are destined to take their place as standard kinds, permanent additions to a beautiful, ever-increasing, but none too numerous family. Tlie spring of 1887 saw the distribution of several fine Tea Roses, including Dr. Grill, which forms the subject of our coloured plate, Mme. Etienne, Princess Beatrice, Ethel Brownlow, and Luciole. Dr. Grill was raised by Bonnaire, and is by far the best Rose that he has yet given us. As yet it has not figured very prominently in exhibition stands, and I did not see it this year in some of the large Rose nurseries. This, however, is not owing to lack of good qualities, but rather to the fact that it has been overlooked, coming as it did in a year which saw the advent of a number of good new Roses. The plate, which so faithfully por- trays the fine form and charming colour of the flowers, was drawn from blooms cut from a group of bushes planted in the open bed in the previous November and left unprotected. Before the season was far advanced all the qualities that constitute a good Rose were aliundantly manifest. The plant has a vigorous constitution, with a sturdy, erect, and rather rigid habit of growth. The flowers are remarkable for their fine form, the outer petals being shell-like, largo, and helping to build up abloom of good substance. It has the additional merit of being a remark- ably free bloomer, and the flowers open well. This was esj)ecially noticeable during the dull and wet days of last August, for whilst many Roses then could not open. Dr. Grill braved the elements and kept up a display. As will be seen by the drawing, the shades of colour in the flower are various and happily blended. * Drawn for The Garden by H. G. Moon, from plants in open beds at Gravetye Manor, September 10, ISS'J. Lithographed and printed by Guillaume Severeyns. HE GARtJtH -0 IW J. f V ^ ROSE"DOCTEUR GRILL. Jan. 18, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 57 The prevailing tint is a coppery-yellow, shaded and suffused with a clear tender rose, wliich deepens at the Lase and externally is some- what of the same tint as the common pink ilonthly. Though quite distinct from, it has points of resemblance with two other iirst- rate Teas, Mme. Lambard and Jules Finger, in its habit of growth, freedom of flowering, and ease of opening ; its vigour denotes hardi- ness, and it should become common and popu- lar as a garden Rose. Whilst kinds of such merit annually appear, interest in trying new Ko.ses will not lack, and those who speculate in them will be well rewarded for all expense and trouljle in finding something of merit, and will earn the gratitude of thousands of Rose lovers -H-liose means are limited, and who before making new purchases await the pub- lished results of others' trials. The frend the pure white form and tie variety Lemoiiiana will coutiaue to keep tlie houses gay until the dearth of flowers is past. One great drawback to the Ca-logyne is its lack of fragrance. Dendrobium heterocarpum.— This is a beau- tiful sweet-scented plant, which should be grown in (juantity aud placed about in various parts of the house. It is called D. aureum by sjnie authori- ties. It enjoys strong heat during the growing season. liSelia auceps Stella.— This fine rariety is now flowering iu several gardens round London, and it is a great pity that wo have not yet found out how to bloom these plants more freely. Large specimens with seven or eight leading growths often only carry one spike of bloom. Cypripedium insigne and others.— This is a useful old plant for floneriug in niid-wiuter, and fine forms have occurred since these plants became popular. Independent of C. Maulei and C. punctatum violaceuni, there are a host of others, among the best being Tlio Woodlands variety, which is now blooming with Mr. Measures at Streatham, with thirty flowers, the ordi- nary form with twenty-one blooms, and punctatum \iolaeeum, wtih twelve and fourteen flowers. These with many others are eow very beautiful. 62 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 1890. Dendrobium 'Wardianuni. — This is now be- ginning to flower freely. We have not seen much va- liety amongst it at pi'esent in the colour of the flowers, hut there is much variation in the shape of the lip, some forms being much more open and spreading than others, and the maroon patch at its base does not ap- pear to be so large in the Burmese form as in that of the typical plant from Assam, Zygopetalum Maokayi.— Here is an old plant flowering well and it has done so for the last three years. Mr. Turner, of Derwent Lodge, Dartmouth, says he has a plant of this Orchid now- in full beauty, and with seven spikes of bloom. Its beautiful flowers are always ornamental, and the colour renders them very attractive. The plant likes tutermediate heat. A blue Cattleya.— C. Triamo leucophsea is a veritable blue Cattleya, by far the bluest I have ever eeen, the sepals and petals being pure white, much waved at the edges, and the lip large and prettily frilled ; the front portion is of a deep rich mauve-blue, stained in the throat with orange, the colour of the lip, with the purity of the sepals and petals, rendering this a very effective flower. Spathoglottis Lobbi.— What a pretty little plant this is ! I am in receipt of a flower from Mr. White, gardener to Sir Trevor Lawrence, the flowers being of a clear yellow throughout. I used to have a fine lot of this plant in the collection at Tooting, and the only fault I had to find with it was that it flowered without leaves. The front lobe, rounded and deeply bilobed in front, is slightly deeper in colour than the sepals and petals. The leaves when they appear are narrow and deep green. It is a pretty terrestrial plant which should be grown in turfy light loam and peat. — W. H. G. Fruit Garden. BUD-DROPPING IN PEACH HOUSES. The great bugbear with wliicli Peacli growers have to grapple is the dropping of the flower- buds just when the flow of the sap is acceler- ated by the moat gentle warmth, and so persis- tent is this shedding of the finest and most promising forerunners of fruit, that it never rains, but it pours, until all the strongest shoots are literally budless, whilst in not a few in- stances the very weakest growths develop a perfect blossom. Some varieties, all forcing gardeners know quite well, are more subject to this disorder, I will not call it disease, than others, but the hardiest are bound to give way where certain conditions under which forced trees flourish are neglected. The old Noblesse, double Montague, Mailta, Belle Beauce, and the Early Mignonne, the very finest and best of va- rieties, are terribly subject to bud-dropping, and to such an extent do they fall, that I have known trees of the first year after year but moderately cropped, although every flower which opened carried its fruit to maturity. But why do trees under glass cast their buds when the same same varieties against open walls 6et a profusion of fruit, and often require much thinning? Well, the cause in the majority of cases, no doubt, is a falling ott' in the supply of water, not when tlie sap is rising, for the mis- chief may have been done months before, but immediately after the leaves have been shed, and under the mistaken idea of hardening and ripening the buds, the roots have been allowed to become dry. The only remedy in this case lies in prevention, if I may use the term, and prevention consists in giving the roots a sound, solid, calcareous loam, resting on ample drain- age, which cannot become waterlogged when co- pious supplies are given throughout the autumn. I have often stated that the culture of the succeed- ing crop commences immediately after the foli- age of the passing season is ripe, and tliose who allow their borders to become only partially dry may know what to expect in the spring. Other causes, no doubt, are at work, such, for instance, as overcropping, the premature loss of foliage by insects, and the injudicious use of insecti- cides, especially of rank soft soap at the time of cleansing ; but these, like the preceding, are dis- orders which may be prevented by careful thin- ning, by a free use of the garden engine and by err- ing on the side of weakness when mixing up poison- ous compounds. Again, there prevails an opinion that unripe wood is most given to bud-casting. Overcrowded wood, from which the rays of the sun, light and fresh air are excluded, may resent this bad treatment ; but who ever heard of a well-managed tree in an early, a midseason, or even a late house going to rest in an unripened state when trees on open walls hold their smaller buds and gradually swell them into perfect flowers '( The best answer to this asser- tion is the undeniable fact that the earliest forced trees are most subject to the disorder, and the cause, in my opinion, may be set down to too much mistaken kindness. Take, for in- stance, a tree whose fruit is ripe at midsummer ; its flower-buds will be as forward as others on walls which do not ripen their fruit before September. The forced tree is syruiged daily, and partially or entirely shut \i\) in the evening for two or three weeks to "fetch up" the buds ; but really and truly this is the very treatment which fetches them off, for they get too forward, become overripe, and although freely ventilated later on, the autumn jiroving fine and mild, aided by flushes of water or rain after the drought they make a push, and the owner prides himself on having his trees in splendid condi- tion. By degrees the early winter frosts and general cooling of the soil check the flow of sap, the supply is cut oil, and although the buds still hang their doom is cast, for they have been pushed to a stage which they should not have reached until alter the house was again closed for forcing. If anyone doubt this, let him ex- amine one of his own trees which has cast its best buds, and he will find all the strongest and best shoots nearly budless, save perhaps a few of the most backward near the points, whilst the very weak shoots are all he has left to depend upon. The disorder in this by no means un- common case is clearly due to over-ripening, as so frequently happens in hot, dry seasons, and the remedy, as I have just observed, rests in prevention — first, by continuing the copious supplies of water, and second, by running down the roof lights to their fullest extent, or taking them olT altogether on the very day the last Peach was gathered , and keeping them ofl' until the end of October. Fruit Growek. Orange culture on open walls. — One often meets with large Orange trees in private gardens grown in tubs, &c., and kept in cold glass structures during winter. It is not often one hears of their being grown on open walls successfully in our cli- mate. In the gardens of Tyneham House, Isle of Purbeck, near Wareham, Dorset, there is a large Seville Orange tree on a south wall in the open in a most flourishing condition. In the autumn it had from 300 to 400 Oranges on it. The fruits are very useful for making marmalade, for which they are used at the above place. When in bloom the scent must be delicious. The sweet kinds are now being tried outside. — J. C. F. Apple Lord Suffield. — I quite agree with the remarks of " A. D." (p. Ill) on this Apple. If any- one desires to have it always full sized he must plant a number of young trees every six or eight years. Trees from five to ten years old bear heavily and produce most handsome fruit, but I never saw a tree over the latter age that retained its original fertility. I know of trees in this locality that in- variably furnished first-prize fruit at our local show eight or ten years ago, but which now entirely fail to win a prize, and yet they have received the most careful attention. When the trees are small the heavy crops of huge fruit they bear are very capti- vating and frequently induce beginners to plant them largely, but my experience and that of many others is that they gradually decline till the fruit becomes very inferior, and in this respect it differs from many well-known Apples, as some kinds bear equally as good or better frnit when beyond their teens than before they reached them. As to the quality for cooking of Lord Sutlield Apple when in its prime, nothing can be said against it.— J. MuiR, Margam Park, South ^yale.s. GROS COLMAN GRAPES NOT COLOURING. I HAVE a house of Gros Colman Grapes. Will you tell me the reason of some of the Grapes being green and partly coloured and shanking ? My house is a lean-to and stands full south. Will Gros Colman and Lady Downe's Grapes do in one house? — r. W. C. *^* In the absence of all information as to the position and condition of the roots it is impossible to say with any degree of certainty which of several possible causes may have induced shanking and arrested the process of colouring. Therefore in order to enable " F. W. C." to draw his own conclu- sions I will enumerate the following, viz., starting too late in the spring and the maintenance of too low a temperature, overcropping, allowing the roots to get into a cold wet subsoil, checks from sudden exposure by injadicious ventilation when the Grapes commenced colouring, loss of foliage which is very tender by exposure to very bright sun or the ravages of insects, and, most common of all causes, an insuflicient supply of water. Any one of these defects might produce the evils complained of, but it is more than probable that several of them have been at work, and if so, having thought out the problem, " V. W. C." must correct or avoid them in the future. Gros Colman and Lady Downe's can be grown well together, the long season and high temperature essential to finish and quality in the first being highly beneficial to the second, and then, in order to have them first class, they should be started not later than the first week in March, and grown on under Muscat treatment until the fruit is ripe. Being free-rooting varieties, they require an abund- ance of water which should be given in a tepid state, and the better to enable them to take copious supplies, the borders should be made of sound sustaining loam intermixed with porous materials, including old mortar, charcoal and crushed bones, the latter in preference to animal manure, which may be used freely as a mulch when the crop is swelling and ripening. Rather deep narrow borders resting on ample drainage suit them best, as the principal part of their work is performed whenever summer heat is greatest, and, provided they never feel the want of water, the roots may be kept par- tially or entirely inside the house with advantage. The foliage of Gros Colman, as I have just re- marked, being rather tender, it frequently happens that a check is produced by the cupping and brown- ing of the finest leaves, especially in light bright hermetically glazed structures, no matter how abun- dant the top and bottom ventilation. An insufB- cient supply of water at the roots and over-crop- ping, also a close, moist, confined atmosphere inten- sify this evil ; hence the importance of keeping the pipes warm and ventilating freely through the night. If this treatment does not keep the foliage fresh and healthy, Vines in houses facing full south often derive the greatest benefit from very light shading through the hottest jiart of the day. In- deed, so magical is the effect of a piece of Hay- thorn's or a double thickness of herring netting, that I have known Vines which always came to grief completely cured in a single year. — W. 0. Useful Pears for a succession. — The fol- lowing dozen will give a succession from August to April if well grown : Jargonelle, Williams' Bon Chretien, Beurre Superfin, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise, Pitmaston Duchess, Doyennfi du Comioe, Glou Morceau, Bergamote d'Esperen, Jan. 18, 1890.] THE GAIIDEN. 63 BeurrS Ranee, Josephine de Malines, and Ne Plus Mearis. The Qaince stock is not reliable always and everywhere, and neither will all varieties of Pears do equally well upon it. If plenty of nourish- ment is given in the shape of water and surface top dressings, the fruits grow to a large size and are fine in colour and finish ; but when planting Pears on the Quince for the first time it should be looked upon as an experiment, and not entered upon too largely to begin with. — E. H. THE VINE.* The culture of the Vine as an article of fruit supply is one of the first importance as pertaining to private gardens— in fact the Vine may be placed at the head of those of English growth. Its luscious fruit can be had aU the year round with com- parative ease where the facilities exist for its cul- tivation. Grapes are never out of season, neither does the relish for the same abate, as it would do with fruit of a higher aromatic flavour. For the invalid, what is more acceptable than a few Grapes ? It is not till within the last twenty years, however, that Grapes have been cultivated to a sufficient extent so as to place them within the reach of those possessed of but limited means. I do not think there can be much fault found now with the price of Grapes during the greater portion of the year, unless it be from the grower's point of view. It is not, however, as an article of commerce that I shall endeavour to say a few words, but more par- ticularly as it relates to private gardens and gar- deners themselves. Difficulties to overcome.— There are a few drawbacks to the successful culture of the Vine which I will first mention. The first, and one that is a greater source of failure than any other, is that of being obliged to grow, in many cases, a house- ful of plants as well as a roof covered with fruit- ing A'ines. It should be apparent to any observer, even it possessed of but a slight knowledge of plant growth, that this is contrary to all rules of healthy development. We hear a great deal at the present time, and none too soon, of the over- crowded state of the dwellings of the poorer classes with its consequent results of sickness and pre- mature decay, followed, alas, too often by an un- timely grave. Yet this is just what is being done in many a house where Grapes are expected to be grown to perfection. Plants, like human beings, have their breathing functions, and to main- tain the same in a healthy condition they must be provided with a due proportion of atmospheric air; this cannot be the case where overcrowding pre- vails. Often it will happen that the treatment necessary to successful Vine culture will not be in accord with that needful to the plants grown in the same house, when the commonest of all results will ensue, viz , one or the other must suffer. I have had myself to contend with this difficulty, and know what it means, but always endeavour to overcome it as far as possible by growing such plants under Vines as would best adapt themselves to the treatment needful for the latter, and by keeping down the numbers of the former as much as possible. Another source of failure in Vine cul- ture is that of being limited to a small amount (and sometime none at all) of fuel to maintain the proper temperature during the earlier stages of growth and in the thorough ripening of late keep- ing Grapes. I am well aware that Grapes are grown without fire-heat at any stage, and that, too, with fair success, but the exception does not prove the rule. Only the most favoured in situation can rely upon good Grapes year after year without the aid of artificial heat at any period of their growth. Failure, too (like the foregoing instances beyond the gardener's control), will often happen in having to contend with a poor description of soil and fre- quently with a badly constructed and injudiciously ventilated structure. The reply to such cases as this is very brief— a poor outlay cannot be expected to yield a bountiful return. 1 * A paper read at the Ealing Gardeners' Mutual Improvement Society, November 27, 18S9, by J. Hud- j son, Gunnersbury Uouse Gardens. I Propagation.— This, though often done by the nurseryman, has also to be performed by the gar- dener. It is an easier matter to propagate and grow on young Vines for planting where done in quantity than it is where only a few are required. In the latter case there is a greater risk of Injury by overcrowding when in a young state, so also is there of attacks from insect pests through not being able to give the requisite treatment to keep down the same. Propagation, as most of us know, is effected chiefly from eyes of the previous season's growth. The wood chosen for this purpose should be well ripened, and in every possible case only those buds close home to the spur should be selected ; those spurs on which bunches have been ripened should only have the eyes taken for pro- pagation from below the bunch. The reason I assign for this is that the buds nearest home are, as a rule, the best developed. In support of this, I can only instance one fact, viz , the best and most compact bunches of Grapes are produced from the base of the previous season's growth. I do not advise bottom-heat to be resorted to in pro- pagation, even at the very commencement. With- out it the growth at first may not be so rapid, but later on amends will be made for this. I prefer to place each eye singly in a 3-inch pot rather than several close together in a larger one in order to save the young rootlets from any after injury in potting with a relative check thereto. Shift when sufficiently advanced and well rooted into ti-inch pots, thence into 8|-inch and SJ-inch, according to the strength of the Vines. Those in the larger size would, if well ripened, carry a few bunches the next season, as pot Vines, but better still the fol- lowing year if cut back, restarted and shifted into llij-inch or 12-inch pots as may be necessary, ,the llg-inch size for early forcing, and the 12-inch for later uses. Thorough exposure to all the light possible is an essential point to observe ; a close- jointed sturdy growth, wiry and hard, is better than one more sappy with larger foliage perhaps and wood also. 1 had occasion once to raise a number of Vines, from eyes chiefly, for future planting ; these were each started in 3-inch pots as advised, being placed on a shelf at the outset in a vinery at work. When fairly well started they were transferred to a pit near the glass, and potted on into 81-inch and 9i-inch pots. When about 18 inches high they were placed on the back shelf of a three-quarter span late vinery, over which the permanent Vines bad not been trained. Here at a moderate distance between each other they made an excellent growth, so good in fact and thoroughly well ripened, that the head gardener in charge fruited some in pots early the next season. Being a lofty house, there was an abundant circulation of air going on that was conducive to a sturdy growth. The amount of water given them, however, in such a position was something enormous, but the results amply repaid that extra labour. They were, I might say, ripened off in the same position ; the treatment given to the permanent Vines when ripen- ing their fruit just suited them, and that far better than placing them out of doors in a sunny spot to attain these ends. Vines that are intended for fruiting in pots will be benefited if they are stopped when about one-third of the intended cane has attained its growth, and then be forced to break its main or otherwise dormant bud ; this will tend to- wards a closer growth. All lateral shoots should be pinched at the first joint, so as to concentrate all the strength in the main shoot, and when the desired length of cane has been obtained it should again be stopped and re-stopped if necessary ; this will aid in swelling np the back buds for the next season. Canes of the first season's growth that are intended for planting should be pruned to suit each respective case, but the closer home the better, and then kept quite cool until required for planting. Young Vines can be grown from eyes in pots and planted out the same year with most satisfactory results. I have succeeded well with them in this way, getting good canes to the top of the house the first season. By this mode ripe fruit may sometimes be had eighteen months from the time of starting from the eye, but I do not advise it if the durability of the 'Vines is the prime object. I planted out those just alluded to about the middle of June in narrow inside borders, whence they went straight away to the top of the house without check, forming good canes with a small pith the opposite of which I do not like to see. These young Vines, I might add, were stopped when about one-third of the way up the roof and forced to break their main buds, as previously advised for pot Vines. This treat- ment may appear to be a check, but when once the Vine breaks forth again it will go on growing faster than before, and soon make up for any supposed loss of time by stopping. Vines are also raised from eyes without the aid of pots at all by selecting sods of fibrous turfy loam, and inserting one each in the centre of each turf with the addition of some silver sand. By this process, however, there should not be any delay in planting when they have well esta- blished themselves. This system answers best when the Vine in its earliest stages is near the glass, and is not to be recommended where far re- moved from it. Soil for Vixes. — This is one of the most im- portant factors in successful Grape culture. It is not every gardener's good fortune to have at his command the best kind of loam as the chief com- ponent of his Vine borders ; often it is otherwise, yet I feel sufficient allowance is not made between one case and the other when drawing comparisons even as to the man's ability. I have only on one occasion been able to come across what I should term good loam for Vines in this particular lo- cality. The loam in this neighbourhood is defi- cient in lime, and consequently lacks some of those properties which go towards building up and sus- taining the Vine for a considerable period in a fruitful and satisfactory condition. I admit that we can procure soil around us that will produce a vigorous and promising growth with corresponding fertility for a few years, but it is not capable of keeping up the vigour for a great length of time. If I could select my soil regardless of expense, it should be taken from the limestone districts ; such soil needs but little added to it. The carriage pre- cludes this, however, in the majority of instances ; therefore we must adopt other means. I prefer to obtain what might be termed a stiff yellow loam rather than that of a darker colour, which has a tendency to be somewhat too light. It should be the top spit of an old pasture with plenty of fibre. If the Grass is not of coarse growth so much the better; that which is more wiry and of finer growth is a better indication of adaptability to Vine cul- ture. Having procured the best within our reach I recommend that it should be stacked up for two or three months as delivered, without cutting the sods to pieces in any way. But as it is being thus built up I would add between each layer a fairly good sprinkling of soot both for its manurial qualities and as a medium for destroying wireworm and the common worm found in soils. Old mortar rubbish is an excellent addition to our soils, and when ob- tainable should be freely used; failing this, lime with soot may be used in equal proportions. Char- coal is another ingredient not to be passed over ; although not strictly speaking a manure, it has the property of absorbing food for plant life, giving off the same as needful when the roots are capable of withholding it. Burnt clay or ballast is another excellent addition to our Vine borders, assisting greatly to keep the soil from becoming too close and retentive. Crushed bones, inch and half-inch (as termed by the trade) should be included chiefly for the phosphate of lime (55 35) which they con- tain, and if possible used liberally. All of these additions can be made to the soil as it is stacked up without any difficulty, finishing off the top in such a manner as to throw off the rain, so as to preserve the soil in a moderately dry state. Later on, when it is needful to prepare for planting, the soil should be chopped down (not knocked to pieces with a fork so as to litierate the finer por- tions only) and thrown up together in a heap and afterwards turned once to thoroughly incorporate it together. Fine weather should be chosen for this work ; in fact, all preparatory work relating to Vine borders should be done in dry weather. I might add before proceeding further, that clay even when pulverised may be used in addition to 64 THE GAEDEN. [Jan. 18, 1890. the other soil. If the latter is of a very light cha- racter, it should, before use, be spread out thinly to expose it to the weather that it may crumble to pieces. I do not recommend either farmyard or stable manure to be used in the formation of Vine borders. Either may tend to a too vigorous growth, followed afterwards by an equally vigorous decline in the constitution of the Vine. These manures should only be used when one is com- pelled to rely on ordinary garden soil. {To he continned,') Trees and Shrubs. BUSH HONEYSUCKLES. (WEKIELAS.) The Weigelas have long been in the front rank of flowering shrubs ; they are deservedly popular everywhere, being elegant, rapid in tune thus describes W. rosea : " When I first discovered this beautiful plant it was growing in a mandarin's garden on the island of Chusan, and was literally loaded with its fine rose- coloured flowers, which hung in graceful bunches from the axils of the leaves and the ends of the branches. Everyone saw and ad- mired the beautiful Diervilla, which was also a great favourite with the old Chinaman to whom the place belonged. I immediately marked it as one of the finest plants of Northern China, and determined to send plants of it home by every ship until I heard of its safe arrival." The golden-leaved W. Looymansi aurea is a very fine ornamental shrub that usually retains its bright golden foliage through the season, and the variegated-leaved form is also an excel- lent kind. Weigelas should never be crowded, their proper place being as isolated groups on Cut flowers of Weigela (Diervilla) grandianra (amaliilis) in a vase. growth, and beautiful when in bloom. There is now a multitude of varieties, the originals of which are W. grandiflora, known also as W. amabilis ; W. rosea, W. floribunda, and W. hortensis. These type species are natives of China and Japan, whence they have been in- troduced within the last forty years. They have been so much hybridised that the original kinds are rarely found pure. The most valu- able sorts have sprung from W. grandiflora, which has the largest flowers, and these are ex- cellent for use in a cut state (see annexed illus- tration), while the smaller, but more nume- rously flowered kinds have originated from W. rosea and W. floribunda. W. rosea, inti-oduced by the late Mr. Robert Fortune, is perhaps the most free-flowering and the moat ornamental of the genus. Mr, For- lawns or on the margins of shrubberies. Where Weigelas flourish they make large symme- trically-shaped specimens from 0 feet to 10 feet high and as much in diameter, with gracefully drooping branches, which, even when leafless in winter, are ornamental. Attention should be paid to top- dressing them with good rich soil annually, and to pruning them well, so as to retain only the vigorous stems and branches that yield the finest bloom. Weigelas are now known botanically under the genus Diervilla, which also includes other species, D. sessili- flora and D. trifida, from North America, being among them, but neither of these are, in their I present stage, to be recommended for general cultivation, though they are worth planting on account of the bright tints of their autumn foliage. THE AMOOR YELLOW-WOOD. (CLADKASTIS AMUKENSIS.) This is one of those shrubs or rather small-growing trees that planters should make a note of. I do not consider it at all superior in point of beauty of flowers, nor yet, indeed, equal to the better-known C. latea, so far as either habit or depth of foliage tint are concerned. It is, however, well worth looking after, and a fairly-sized bush when studded with the racemes of small yellowish green, some- times nearly white, flowers is an object of general admiration. It blooms when in a comparatively young state, a matter of importance, while the young leaves impart to the plant an appearance that is wanted in at least ninety per cent, of our hardy trees and shrubs. Hailing from Amoorland, and judging of its hardihood from trees and plants from the same district, it is not very likely that this Yellow- wood will turn out to be perfectly hardy in all parts of the British Isles, but that it is so in the more favoured parts of England is a well- known fact. In England there are some fine specimens of the American Yellow-wood, trees nearly 40 feet in height, and these, when that particular summer in which they flower comes round, are well worth seeing, for the profusion of white flowers can only be equalled by those of the False Acacia. To grow this species in anything like a satis- factory way it must be planted in a warm and dry soil and in a shady and sunny position, for unless the young wood is well ripened before winter sets in, the chances are that it will suffer in consequence, •and the free blooming nature of the tree be averted. In autumn the leaves of the American Yellow-wood are of an attractive golden hue, and when seen at that time in frcnt of a dark-foliaged old Y'ew or be.eide a good-sized specimen of the Sweet Bay or Portuguese Laurel, the effect pro- duced is truly grand. The proper placing of trees and shrubs is a matter of much importance. When the beauty and contrast they thus afford are justly weighed, any little trouble in the matter of arrange- ment is soon and amply compensated for. As regards the soil in which it is planted, I do not think that either of the species of Cladrastis is at all particular, for there are not a few examples of the commonly cultivated form thriving well in various of the southern English counties in soils of different qualities. That most suitable may, how- ever, he a rather light sandy peat or loam, alluvial deposit freely mixed with grit being also a happy mediam. A quiet corner where harsh winds are rarely felt, and where the soil is deep and warm will be found suitable for either species of the Y^ellow-wood. A. D. W. Hedera dentata.— This "giant" Ivy is growing here over a doorway exactly like the engraving on p. 7, although not so wide an archway, perhaps. I can well corroborate all you say regarding its good qualities. This kind is not like some others, the Irish Ivy, for instance, in its growth, the leaf- stalks not being nearly so long as those of that variety. For this reason it presents at all times a neater appearance, and does not necessitate the annual clipping of the leaves to obtain the best appearance, as does Irish Ivy. A careful removal of surplus growth gives a tidy look to the plant. For covering a high wall in a short time this Ivy is un- equalled, as if well attended to annual growths of (J feet will be made. Attention is necessary in securing to the wall these stout shoots, as they do not always attach themselves the first year if the aspect is exposed to high winds. It is planted at the base of the wall on the east side of the mansion, and in a short time it has reached a height of MO feet. At such a height the noble deep green leaves present a grand appearance. I cannot understand how this variety can have gained the reputation of being a slow grower. Given reasonable treatment, I doubt not but this Ivy will render a good account of itself, unless where it refuses for several years to make any progress in the way of climbing growths, the season's growth resulting in nothing more than a crop of blossoms on the point of every shoot. We have Jan. 18, 1890. THE GARDEN. 65 here an instance of this. Three plants were put out at the end of a cottage with a view of covering it quickly. All commenced to grow freely until a height of 7 feet was reached ; then one stopped and refused to do more than bear annual crops of flowers, while the other two are now 25 feet high, very dense in leafage, and of a delightful colour. The defaulting plant is not nearly so dark in the colour of its leaves, although all have had similar treatment. — S. EARLY FLOWERING SHRUBS. Bkfoee the season for planting is over it may be of interest to note a few of the early flowering shrubs that are always so fresh and beautiful in spring. Among the earliest things to blossom is the Mezereon (Daphne Mezereum). It is very pretty either in single bushes or in groups. It is more a cottager's plant at present than one for the aristocratic garden, though it is difficult to assign a reason for this. Besides the showy pink flowers in spring, there is a crop of scarlet berries in summer which are very attractive. The Almond is another early flowering shrub that ought to be more exten- sively planted. ForsythiaviridissimaandF. Fortunei are very showy, though the flowers come before the foliage. LoniceraStandishiandL.fragrantissimaare two beautiful wall plants. But one of the brightest shrubs in the border or on the house front in spring is Pyrus japonica, red and white. Among other shmbs which are rapidly brought on by early gleams of sunshine are the evergreen Barberries B. Aquifolium and B. Darwini are the earliest to flower, though for graceful effect I think B. steno phylla has no superior. This plant must not be crowded in among a mass of other things, but should be isolated on a mound or some elevated position. All the evergreen Barberries transplant badly. I like moving them in autumn when it can be done early. It is a good plan to head them back after moving ; it concentrates the growing force, and I think the plants sooner get over the shift. Mag- nolia conspicua is beautiful in April on a wall or as a bush in a sheltered situation. Magnolia Lennu, the purple variety, should also have a place. The Ribes, or Flowering Currants, are among the brightest of shrubbery ornaments in spring. The double form of sanguinea and the golden variety, Ribes aurea, are worth growing for variety's sake. There is a marvellous beauty about the Rhododen- drons in the districts that favour them, but they will not grow where there is much lime in the soil. The old Azalea pontica is one of the sweetest and most beautiful things for a good-sized group on the margin of the lawn. Laburnums, the Guelder Rose, the Laurustinus, the Syringas, and last, but not the least important and beautiful, are the Hawthorns in great variety. Very few planters make all the use they might of these, especially the bright-coloured kinds. Paul's Double Scarlet should ere this have made its mark in every garden, and there are soft-tinted kinds very beautiful and fragrant. E. H. Scarcity of Holly berries.— If such weather as we experienced here during the latter part of No- vember was general throughout the country, the answer to the yuery by " X.". (p. 15) might be easily given. Previous to that time Holly berries were very plentiful ; in fact, I do not remember ever having seen the yellow-berried variety so well fruited before, but very soon after the snow fell the trees were attacked by birds, so that in a very few days the whole crop disappeared, much to the regret of Christmas decora- tors.— J. C. Tallack. liiquid manure for Hollies. — It may not be generally known that liquid manure applied to the roots of Holly trees during the autumn or winter months will do much towards giving the leaves their natural green colour where any plants exist which have got into a sickly condition. It is not in every situation that the Holly, even the com- mon variety, will succeed. I have here a hedge of this sort, 100 yards long, with an eastern expo- sure. Somehow the leaves have always been of a pale colour, except those on one part at the southern end, which is sheltered. The soil is heavy and freely mixed with chalk, but whether it is the presence of this which accounts for the pale colour of the leaves or the exposed position I cannot say. During a few dry days in October a thorough soak- ing of liquid from the stable tank was given to the roots, and since then a gradual change has come over the foliage, which is now assuming a deep green colour. I propose to repeat the dose during the month of March just before growth commences. — S., Hants. STREET TREES. The paragraph in The Garden of Dec. 28, 1889 (p. 611), might have been written of other districts than Chiswick, but the way the trees are planted and staked in this suburb is sufficiently ludicrous. There has been for years past a widespread and laudable endeavour to beautify London and its suburbs by the planting of trees, and in such dis- tricts as Kensington the trees through careful planting and after treatment have grown in a way to give delight and beauty. It is the rule, un- fortunately, rather than the exception to throw money to the winds on trees that cannot live well through a bad and ignorant system of planting. In one bye street the peculiarly unhappy season of April was fixed on to plant two long rows of trees just bursting into leaf, and stuck into the ground with a complete indifiierence apparently as to whether they lived or died. Unfortunately, more than half succumbed, another set was brought in to fill the gaps, and many of these followed the way of their fellows, the few remaining struggling into leaf, and in course of time becoming in some sense established. In nine cases out of ten the trees are planted to die, ami it would be idle to look for other results while such delicate work is entrusted to men whose usual avocation is to sweep the roads. It is not often a thought is given as to the after requirements of the trees, though some- times the space around the tree is left unpaved, so that water can be given in excessively dry weather. The policy is to so carefully raise the soil above the common level that any rain or moisture that might be washed down is utterly useless. To plant a tree well is imperative if a healthy, vigorous growth is expected, and if the first principle is assiduously ignored, the trees will die and leave gaps to disfigure the roads. The majority planted in the main road at Chiswick have survived the planting, but there is another terror in the staking. Though each tree is surrounded by an iron cage to prevent thoughtless men and boys from cutting the bark and destroying the branches, a long pole of the same height as the sapling itself and twice its thickness has been placed to each tree for the pur- pose apparently of giving support. The poles are neither planed nor trimmed, but stand forth in their bald ugliness to disfigure the road and trees and chafe the stem. It would have been easy to have so fastened the tree to the necessary iron case that only a severe gale would have broken the tenderest twig. The roots, through which the thick poles have been thrust, must have received permanent injury. The poles were not even tarred at the bottom to prevent speedy decay. Time only will show the effect on healthy young trees of such barbarous treatment. Already the pruner has set to work, and though the trees have been planted but comparatively recently, he has thought fit to trim them to a shape that might represent some figure of Euclid. In the London parks it is an annual custom to clip the shrubs and trees to one shape and space, so as to prevent their true freedom of character ever developing. Half-a- dozen shrubs are planted where there is not room for one, if this is permitted to spread and show its natural beauty and elegance. The staking of trees is as important as the plant- ing, especially if they are large-headed standards, as Horse Chestnuts, which are too frequently used in London suburbs. The time to stake them is directly they are planted, so that the stem will not rock to and fro, loosen the soil, and prevent the roots becoming established. It is impossible to keep the trees firm in the way they are usually staked, that is, to have a pole driven down by the side of the stem. One of the best ways of staking trees in the open is to drive in three notched posts triangular fashion at about 6 feet or 8 feet from the stem, and drive them in until they are about a foot above the ground. Then have three strong wires fastened round the tree at about 5 feet from the ground, and fasten one to each of the stumps. If the wire should become loose it can be tightened by driving the stumps further into the ground. A piece of sacking or something of this kind should, of course, be placed round the tree to prevent the wire cutting into the bark, and the ties should be constantly looked to. Small trees should have the stake placed by their side, and the tree secured at the top of the stake with tar twine, of course placing cloth round the bark to prevent injury. No portion of the stake should be left above the tie, as it will chafe the bark when the wind rocks the trees. C. ICE STORING IN SAWDUST. I QUITE agree with Mr. Iggulden in your issue of December 28, that "it does not pay to construct the old-fashioned expensive ice houses," even if they were well adapted to preserve ice, which, so far as my experience goes, the majority of them are not. Nor is the reason far to seek ; earth and stone are fairly good conductors of heat. The heat of the earth is conducted by the stone into the ice house, melting the ice in contact with the stone ; and when an air space is formed in the house the heat given out by the stone is absorbed by the air, and acts on all the exposed surface of the ice, causing rapid waste. As ice is formed on water by having its latent heat drawn off by exposure to a low temperature of ?<1° or under, so will it melt and return to its liquid form on exposure to a higher temperature by absorbing heat from the air. If we take two blocks of ice and expose one to a mild temperature, melting will go on rapidly more or less according to the height of the temperature. If we surround the other block (under the same conditions as to temperature) with a non-conducting substance like wool, flannel, sawdust, or similar non-conduct- ing material, melting goes on much more slowly, as the non-conducting material prevents to a great extent heat from passing into it. In whatever way we may try to preserve ice. efficient drainage without draught must be pro- vided, so as to prevent the heat in the melted ice or water from acting on the remainder. To store ice with the least possible waste attainable in our vari.able climate the body of ice should rest upon and be surrounded by a non-conducting substance ; it should also be covered with a non-conducting material which will subside with the ice, keeping its surface from being acted upon by the air. For this latter purpose nothing is better than sawdust. It is cleanly, a reliable non-conductor, it is cheap. easily obtained, and with the occasional addition of a little fresh material will last for years. In esti- mating the storage necessary for the supply of a large or small demand all the year round we must bear in mind that a large body of ice keeps better than a smaller body, ic, 100 loads in one mass will keep much better than two masses of 50 loads in each. To girdle the year with a moderate supply of ice, I should say provision should be made for at least 100 to 120 loads. No doubt, a smaller amount might last the greater part of the year, but after allowing for waste could scarcely be depended upon to hold out till the new ice was secured the winter follow- ing. As to the best method of storage, opinions vary very much. It may be interesting to some of your readers to give a few notes of the plan of storage adopted here in 1870, and which has during the time which has elapsed since then proved thoroughly successful. I may say that previous to 1870, al- though we had annually about 120 loads in an ice house of the old type, supplemented by an ice stack or heap, of from 70 to 120 loads, supplies from both or either could not be depended upon after the first or second week in October. I was instruct ed to try if some more efficient method short of going into stone and lime could be adopted which would give a plentiful supply of ice all the year round when required without fail. I decided 66 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 1890. to try wood and sawdust as a medium of storage, and to put the whole quantity stored (about 250 loads) in one place, and as any ereclion above ground would be objectionable near the castle and cause extra labour in throwing the ice up, I thought it better to have the greater part under the ground level. We made a pit about 20 feet by 20 feet and about 7 feet deep, the material thrown out being levelled round the pit, and giving altogether about 10 feet depth. The bottom was made about 17 feet by 17 feet, to give sufficient slope to the sides which were lined with wood. The floor of the pit was slightly sloped to one comer, from which an efficient drain was conducted to a hollow near by. The floor was laid with rough wooden slabs for the ice to rest upon. A rise of about 5 feet in the ground on one side of the pit admitted of carts backing on the higher ground and shooting the ice down a temporary shoot into the pit by its own weight. One or two men with shovels keep the shoot clear and level the ice around the pit where required. Three or four hands with mallets break the ice into pieces, of about the size of half or quarter of a brick. In this way loO to 170 loads in a short winter's day are easily disposed of. The ice is sometimes built up for a foot or two above the edge or level of the wood lining, then rounded off ridge-shaped or highest in the centre. The ice is broken a little finer on the surface, and beaten flat with the back of a spade to keep the sawdust from percolating too much through among the ice. A covering of sawdust from 15 inches to 18 inches thick is then laid over the whole. The sawdust is occasionally raked over, and any cracks or openings caused by sinking closed up. As the ice gives way round the sides of the pit, sawdust is packed in between the wooden lining and the ice, so that the whole mass is kept enveloped in sawdust. Ice can be had at any time when wanted, and at any hour of the day without injury to the bulk, as it is only necessary to clear the sawdust off a small portion of the ice to cut out what is required, replacing the sawdust when finished. Ice stored in sawdust, besides being less subject to waste, is really cleaner than that usually ob- tained from an ice house, because in the latter as the ice melts the impurities remain on the surface of the ice ; whereas in the former, the impurities left by melted ice are taken up by the sawdust, leaving the surface of the ice always clean. Now as to keeping. I find from some notes kept for a few years after commencing the system that in December, 1877. at the end of the first year, there remained some fifty or sixty loads of old ice when putting in the new. In December, l>-78 and 1^79, there remained after meeting all demands for three years from sixty to eighty loads in a solid block both years. In preparing the pit for new ice on November 20, 1 880, there remained a solid block of old ice 17 feet long by 14 feet wide and s feet deep. Since then I have discontinued taking notes, as I find that there is usually as much left in the pit at the end of the year as would with care nearly carry us through a second year in the event of our being unable to get ice in a mild winter. The ice pit has now been in use here about twelve years, and during that time there have never been less than fifty loads remaining at the close of the year. The system has been tried on a smaller scale and found very successful. In 1870 we had to pro- vide an all-the-year-round supply at the Com- missioner's residence, Uppat House, a few miles from here. We made a pit on the same principle to hold from 110 to 120 loads. This has yielded a daily supply when required, and generally has a few loads remaining when the new ice is put in. The system has been adopted at several places in the north, and in each case with success. I may say that previous to 1876 we had to drive ice fully a mile at considerable cost, but by temporarily flooding two depressions in the park with pure water, we now get ice within 300 yards or 400 yards of the pit at less than half the expense and half the time required formerly. It is an advantage to have the pit in a position where it will be shaded by trees from strong sun in summer. Failing this, a thicker covering of saw- dust or a covering of Spruce branches would, to a great extent, make up for want of natural shade. D. Melville. DuTvrohin Castle Gardens, Sutherland. Societies and Exhibitions. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL. The first meeting of the year was one of the brightest ever held by the Royal Horticultural Society in January, and of especial interest to the orchidist, who would have found a rich series of Dendrobium hybrids and Lselias. The time for meeting has been changed from eleven to twelve, and this reduces the long interval between the dis- posal of the committee's business and the lectures which are to be held at these gatheriugs throughout the year. On Tuesday the Rev. W. Wilks read a paper on " Winter Gardening,'' advocating the use of Evergreens in pots for the borders to fill the places of Dahlias and other tender flowers, but not to interfere with the hardy plants and bulbs already planted. There is nothing new in this idea. A first-class certificate went to each of the fol- lowing : — Desdbobium xasthocentbum. — This was one of a number of hybrids shown by Sir Trevor Law- rence, Bart., who has at Burford Lodge a rich series of this flower, many of the crosses showing an un- usual delicacy of tint and decisive colouring. The Dendrobium named is a pretty flower, the sepals and petals richly tipped with bright magenta, the other portion shaded with the same cheerful colour ; the lip is conspicuous, and in the centre boldly coloured with orange, relieved at the entrance to the throat by brownish crimson, and towards the front melting into white, which gives place at the margin to magenta. As the plant was small it is difficult to judge as to its other merits besides the individual beauty of the flower, but it promises well. Desdbobiuii Juno. — This is a hybrid between Wardianum and moniliforme, a species brought from China and Japan in 1824, and figured in the Botanical JfagaziTw, 5482, under the name of D. japonicum. The hybrid has retained the character- istics of both parents. It will never become such a favourite as Wardianum ; it lacks its boldness of colouring and delightful freedom of expression. The flowers are about the size of those of a good form of nobile, waxy in texture, and rich magenta- rose, that becomes paler towards the base. The lip resembles that of Wardianum, having a rich, velvety-lake colouring in the throat, outside this a pale buff colour, which gives place to white, made clearer by a rim of rose-magenta. The colours are charmingly vivid and rich, and the flowers will become stronger when the plant itself gains strength. From Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bt. Dendbobil'M LuNA.—Another hybrid Dendrobe, this time a cross between Ainsworthi, itself a lovely hybrid, and Findleyanum. A small plant was shown carrying a number of flowers, which suggests that this is unusually free in bloom. The flowers are tenderly coloured with the softest shades, unlike the bold tints of " Juno "; the lip is creamy-white, that passes into a soft yellow in the centre, and tipped with magenta, the sepals and petals being suffused with the same delicate magenta shade. It wants a large plant full of bloom to make any effect. From Sir Trevor Lawrence. Dendbobium Maci'ablanei. — This is quite different from any of the hybrids described, and as distinct a Dendrobe in itself as the favourite D. nobile. It is one of Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons' introductions from New Guinea, a hitherto unknown land, so to speak, and from whence we may expect many beautiful Orchids and other flowers now that collectors are revealing some of its treasures to us. The small plant exhibited bore only two blooms, but we needed no more to show that we have here a beautiful species of distinctive shape. The flowers are of the purest snow-white, truly white, not tinted with colour, as so many of the Orchids labelled "alba," the only colour being on the lateral lobes of the lip, which are boldly striped on the inner face with the richest magenta, and blotched on the outer surface at the margin with the same intense shade of colour, while running into the throat of the lip is a line of green, not very distinct. The whole bloom is of curious expression. It measures over 3 inches across, the sepals pointed and narrow, quite different to the petals, which are broad and narrowing sharply at both ends, as in the lip, the central portion in each case measuring about an inch in breadth. The species obtains its name from Macfarlane, a missionary in New Guinea. We shall hear more of this new Dendrobe. L^LIA AXCEPS ScHRCEDEBiANA.— We have many beautiful forms of this lovely Orchid— Sanderiana, Veitchi, &c. — but few are finer than the variety that bears Baron Schrccder's name. A large plant, car- rying several of the tall, handsome spikes, came from The Dell collection at Egham, which shows the variety to be not only of striking beauty as far as the individual flowers are concerned, but excep- tionally free. The blooms are larger than the ordi- nary forms of anceps and pure white, except for stripes of a magenta colour on the side lobes of the lip. From Mr. Ballantine, The Dell Gardens, Egham. An award of merit went to each of the follow- ing:— DEyoBOBim nobile, Bubfobd vab. — This is as distinct and striking as the showy variety Cooksoni, and one of the richest coloured of the forms of nobile. The flowers are about the same size as those of the favourite species, bat a great advance in colour, which is distributed chiefly on the lower sepals and lip. There is an intense vel- vety crimson colouring in the centre, as in nobile, and both the upper sepal and the two petals are richly shaded with rose-lilac, this colour appearing of greater intensity on the two lower sepals, which are almost entirely suffused with it, but it melts away into a quieter shade at the margins. The constancy and curious location of colour are unique features. From Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart. Ptebis sebbuxata <;lobiosa. — The forms of this Fern increase and multiply. Here we have another addition to the list, and which we may safely compare to the Chiswick variety, though it cannot be said the two are identical. The " glo- riosa " form has a heavier tassel to the fronds, a greater freedom of growth, and therefore elegance, besides a paler shade of green colour. But these are differences of degree only. From Mr. H. B. May, Edmonton. Chinese Pbimbose Eynsfobd Pink. — The Chinese Primula gives us many charming shades of colour, and in this variety we have a lovely rosy pink colour, as soft and beautiful as in a Tea Rose, and set off by a greenish yeUow centre. It is a single flower, full, not rigid, but free and robust. From Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons. Chinese Pbimbose Hee Ma.jesty. — Another single variety of the purest white intensified by the yellow-green eye, the flower massive, broad, robust, and large. The plant carried a strong truss of bloom that betokened a good constitution. From Messrs. Cannell. Chinese Pbimbose Eynsfobd Red. — This is also a single kind, the flowers produced freely, and of a bright telling crimson colour. Its freedom and cheery shade will make it a favourite. From Messrs. Cannell. Obchids were the principal flowers, as we might expect from the season of the year. The small, but choice group from Burford Lodge contained a few other gems than those already described. Lslia Patini was represented by a plant carrying several flowers which are like those of Skinneri, purple- rose in both sepals and petals, the lip showing a much deeper shade. Of Dendrobiums besides those men- tioned were Dendrobium nobile Cooksoni, and D. n. Tollianum, which has its flowers prettily coloured with rose-lilac. A striking Orchid is a variety of the dwarf compact-flowered Lffilia pumila called El Spiritu Sancto, a fanciful name that might be applied to the Dove flower for obvious reasons, but not to such an Orchid as L. pomila. The Jan. is, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 67 flowers are larger, broader, and more massive than those of the type, but retaining the same solid shape ; the lip is of a deeper shade of rose-pnrple than the sepals and petals, and coloured on the outer surface with a vivid orange-jellow tint. Mr. A. Glover, gardener to Mr. E. Ellis, Manor House, Wallington, sent a splendid plant of the old Boli- vian Lycaste plana, a beautiful Orchid when the plant is crowded with flowers, as in this specimen. The contrast of the olive-green sepals and ivory white rose-spotted petals is peculiarly happy. A good form of Lycaste Skinneri, in which the whole of the flower was richly coloured with deep rose, most intense on the lip, came from Mr. J. Jones, gardener to Mr. N. N. Sherwood, Dnnedin, Streat- ham Hill. A choice series of Orchids came from Mr. Cowley, gardener to Mr. Tautz, Shepherd's Bush, comprising Ccclogyne lentiginosa, a free and uncommon kind, very beautiful when large, but not striking as a small plant ; the racemes carry a number of flowers of a self greenish yellow shade ; the lip coloured with brown, somewhat in the same way as C. ocellata. Lycaste Measuresiana is like plana, but the sepals are of a deeper brown, and both sepals and lip more thickly and richly spotted. One of the most delicate forms of L. Skinneri we have seen is Lucyana, of which a plant was shown. The sepals are just touched with pink, the petals delightfully coloured with a deeper tint, very prettily distributed towards the margin. Another form of this Orchid named Imperator was also ex- hibited ; it has been described before. From The Dell Gardens, Egham, was brought a number of cut spikes of varieties of La3lia anceps, Veitchiana, and others, and an excellent specimen of L. a. Crawshayana was shown by Mr. De B. Crawshay, Rosefield, Sevenoaks ; the flowers are finely coloured with rose-purple. Messrs. Sander and Co., of St. Albans, had also cut blooms of the type, Crawshay- ana and Gouldiana. This might be well called an exhibition of L?elia anceps, as yet another va- riety, this a white form, came from Mr. Harvey, Riversdale Road, Liverpool, the specimen carrying a number of spikes of white flowers. Messrs. Veitch and Sons also had Cypiipedinm Calypso, a hybrid between Spicerianum and villosum Boxalli, in which the parents are well defined, especially in the upper sepal, where there is a strong resem- blance to Spicerianum ; it is a pretty flower. A hybrid Cypripedium also came from Mr. Myles, Appley Towers Gardens. Messrs. Pitcher and Manda, East Dulwich, S.E., exhibited also a hybrid Cypripedium named Masereelianum, a cross between Spicerianum and insigne Chantini, the result an excellent type of Leeannm. Vanda Amesiana alba was shown by Mr. R. Johnson, Stand Hall Gardens, Whitfield. Why called alba is not easy to discover. The flowers are not pure white, but have a flush of soft lilac on the lip, and in the recent importations of this fragrant Orchid there is a considerable variation in the depth of colour on the lip ; some are richly shaded with magenta, others as pale as in the variety here called alba, and which is simply a pale form of the type. The plant was smothered with bloom, once again convincing us of the freedom, beauty, and value of this comparatively new Orchid. Mr. P. Blair, iTrentham Gardens, brought a specimen of CattleyaTrianiB albescens, a very tenderly coloured variety, free, and delicate ; the sepals and broader petals of the purest white ; lip soft lilac, except for the old gold colour at the entrance to the throat. There were several miscellaneous exhibits. A large collection of cut pitchers of the hybrids and species of Nepenthes was shown by Messrs. Veitch and Sons. Amongst the hybrids were Nepenthes Mastersiana, still one of the best, Dicksoniana, Amesiana, and Wrigleyana, a very richly-coloured hybrid, handsomely blotched with rich chocolate on a dull green ground. Of the species the finest pitchers were those of bicaloarata, with its two hom-like processes at the base of the lid ; Hookeri- ana, Rafflesiana, sanguinea and Curtisi (silver medal). Mr. Thomas, The Gardens, Chatsworth, sent several specimens of Amaryllis anlica, a strong growing form, with tall sturdy stems and richly- coloured flowers. This fine old species might be seen more at this season. Messrs. Walshaw i: Sons, The Nurseries, Scarborough, exhibited flowers of Calla a>thiopica, and Messrs. H. CanneU and Sons, several single Chinese Primulas, comprising crispi- folia superba, white, and Eynsford White, in addi- tion to the beautiful varieties certificated. Messrs. Barr & Son, Covent Garden, gave as a taste of hardy flowers by showing pans of Galanthus Elwesi, Nar- cissus minimus. Anemone fulgens, and several Cro- cuses. Spira3a astilboides, to show its value for forcing, came from Messrs. Paul & Son, Cheshunt ; but though a lovely, graceful flower for indoors, it is not of the same value as the old japonica. We prefer to see it in the hardy garden, where its plumy panicles of flowers have their natural grace. The same firm also sent Arum sanctum, a deep crimson, almost black-spathed Arum of interest from its curious character. A large collection of Ferns was shown by Mr. H. B. May, Edmonton, amongst them good specimens of Davailia elegans, Asplenium nobile, Lygodium dichotomum, Actinopteris radiata, Pteris cretica no- bilis, a Fern now well known for its richly crested character; Gymnogramma schizophyUa gloriosa, G. Mayi, and G. Alstoni, one of the prettiest of the gold-powdered Gymnogrammas (bronze medal). Fruit committee. — There was little business for this committee. Mr. Roupell, Roupell Park, showed an excellent collection of Apples for the season of the year, including good fruits of Bram- ley's Seedling, Wealthy, Wellington, Lane's Prince Albert, Blenheim Orange, and Cox's Orange Pippin. Mr. Morris, Taibach, South Wales, showed a good Queen Pine. Mr. A. H. Smee exhibited fruits of Apple Remborough. Two baskets of Mushrooms, gathered from inside beds, came from Mr. J. Miller, gardener to Lord Foley, Ruxley Lodge, Esher. Mr. A. Dean showed a series of Onions. A collection of Broccoli and Cauliflowers, comprising Vilmorin's Easter Day and Early Penzance, was sent from the Chiswick Gardens. Mr. Myles, Appley Towers, Ryde, sent bunches of Appley Towers Grape, a variety cer- tificated in the auturnn. Mr. Thomas sent from Chatsworth a plant in a pot of the Papaw tree full of fruit. It belongs to the Passiflora order, and has fruits of a similar shape and colour when ripe to those of the common blue Passion Flower. It is a native of South America, and was introduced as far back as 1690, growing at home to a height of from 10 feet to 20 feet. The fruit is edible. GARDENERS' ORPHAN FUND. Kindly give me a little space to record some generous and most successful efforts which have recently been made in aid of our gardening chari- ties. The promoters and conductors of such under- takings deserve our warmest and most sincere thanks, not only for the time and trouble they have devoted to the work, but for the splendid example they have set others to go and do likewise. At Worksop last month the gardeners of that ducal district, headed by our good friends Mr. Henderson, of Thoresby (secretary), and Mr. Glee- son, of Clumber, organised a concert, which being patronised by the iUte of the place, secured as a result a net profit of iEoti 4s. for the benefit of the Gardeners' Orphan Fund. In accordance with the rules of the fund, the following members of the committee have elected to become life subscribers : Mr. Egglestone, Firbeck Hall Gardens, Rotherham ; Mr. Gleeson, Clumber Gardens, Worksop; Mr. Hor- ton, Welbeck Gardens, Worksop; Mr. Henderson, Thoresby, Ollerton, Notts; Mr. Jefferson, gardener, Carlton House, Worksop; Mr. Mallender, Hodsock Priory, Worksop; Mr. Sutton, Worksop Manor Gardens, Worksop ; and Mr. Woods, Osberton Gar- dens, Worksop. At Reigate the committee of the Reigate and District Chrysanthemum Society (Mr. J. Brown, Great Doods, Reigate, secretary) decided to hold their show last autumn for the benefit of the two great gardeners' charities— the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution and the Gardeners' Orphan Fund. Their efforts have been so successful as to secure a net profit of £100, and with grateful thanks I have to acknowledge the receipt of £50 sent in aid of the Gardeners' Orphan Fund. The following members of the committee have elected to become life subscribers: Mr. James Brown, gardener to Mrs. Waterlow, Great Doods, Reigate; Mr. Thomas Budgen, gardener to Miss Baker, Holmfels, Rei- gate; Mr. Alfred Elphie, gardenerto Mr. J. Glutton, South Park, Reigate; Mr. William Hamilton, gar- dener to Mrs. Grice, Beechwood, Reigate; Mr. James Head, gardener to Mr. G. Simpson, Wray Paik, Reigate; Mr. Fred. Parfitt, gardener to Mr. E. Home, Park House, Reigate; Mr. Wm. Peters, gardener to Mr. W. Finch, Danecroft, Reigate; Mr. James Port, gardener to Mr. J. C. Saunders, Shagbrook, Reigate; Mr. C. J. Salter, gardener to Mr. T. B. Haywood, Woodhatch Lodge, Reigate; and Mr. Robert V. Smith, gardener to Mr. A. G. Taylor, The Margery, Reigate.— A. F. Babeon, Hon. Sec. Gardeners' Orphan Fund. United Horticultural Benefit and Provi- dent Societv.— The quarterly meeting of tho above Society was "held on Monday evening at the Caledonian Hotel. Four new members were elected, making a total of forty-two during the past year. The annual moctiDg will take place on Monday evening, February 1(1, at the above hotel. Sulphide of potassium.— In The Gabden Oct. in, 1889 (p. 354), "J. C. B." speaks of the value of this for destroying mildew, and I should be glad if he would explain through The Garden how it is that, having tried the solution one-half the strength advised by him on a house of Roses, I find all the woodwork just as if I had syringed it with some mixture like clay and water, only it is much harder to get off. I think we ought to have had a word of caution about using it inside or any- where near paint. I write for the benefit of others who may be thinking of trying the above, and who may find themselves placed the same as myself. Perhaps " J. C. B." will be good enough to give us a few more hints on the use of sulphide of potassium for mildew both inside and out. — E. H. K. Paraffin oil as a fruit tree cleanser.- Fruit trees of all kinds, both as standards and on walls, the latter especially, are apt to be infested with insects. These are not always transitory sum- mer occupants, but include scale and the host of pernicious pests that accompany American blight. Summer syringing has little effect on these, and if once a tree is allowed to get into leaf burdened with parasites, the chances are that, do as one may, they will remain there all the summer, and affect the health of the tree to a most injurious extent. To remedy this I have tried many kinds of insecti- cides, but not one of them has proved so efficacious as paratfin oil. This is the best insect destroyer that anyone could possibly use. If it is mixed at the rate of half a pint to three gallons of water and sprayed lightly on the trees, every vestige of insect life will disappear as if by magic. If one man keeps the solution well stirred while another applies it with the syringe, there need be no fear of its not mixing with the water and going on evenly. It is a mistake to apply it with great force, as is often done, as the object is not to knock off the in- sects, but merely to moisten them and thus con- sume them. If all fruit trees in any way affected with insects are treated thus after having been pruned and before they come into leaf, their im- proved condition thronghont the next season will be apparent.— Cam beian. Vallota purpurea. — Have any readers of The G.\KiiEN had any experience in raising seedlings of the above, and with what success ? It has seeded freely with me this year. — M. E. Removal of Messrs. Barr & Son's nursery. —We are asked to state that this firm has removed its nursery from Tooting to Long Ditton. Names of plants.— i^'. C— 1, Euphorbia Lathy- ri^; 2, Serberidopsis corallina ; 3, Epidendrum tigri- num ; 4, Adiantum Capillus-veneris : 5, Dendrobium Strebloceras; 6, Chi-ysanthemum Gold Thread. Ji- ll, /.p.'f/i.- 1, Acacia"dealbata; 2, send when in flower; 3, Acacia lineata. — — ^Inoii.- Odontoglosaum Cora- dinei. Fern too shrivelled to identify. Name of Apple.— £. B. D.— Minchal Crab. 68 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 18, 1890. WOODS AN£ Forests. HEDGES. In The Garden, January 4 (p. 18), " R." seems not to approve of the inverted wedge shape of hedges. He says: "If strictly adhered to, it would hinder the progress of the hedge, as well as deprive it of body and strength." Everyone knows that if a hedge or Thorn busli is kept pruned it will neither produce flowers nor haws ; it is only neglected hedges that are allowed to ramble about without pruning of any kind that we find producing both. " R." is equally wrong in his ideas about wedge-shaped hedges. For many years I have had the management of about 40 mOes of hedges, of diflerent shapes and sizes, and I have always found the plants in a wedge-shaped hedge to keep in a healthier condition than those of any other form under my care ; and the reason is not far to seek. The wedge-shaped hedge presents more surface to the beneficial influence of the atmosphere than any other form, and receives the benefit of rain, light, and sunshine from to]i to bottom. All of these promote the healthy development of side branches, and render the fence close and eflicient. On the other hand, the lower branches of upright hedges are apt to lose their vitality through confinement, gradually becoming bare and open at the bottom, many of the plants contracting disease and dying ofi', thus leaving unsightly blanks here and there in the fence. In speaking of wedge-shaped hedges, it might be as well to explain that it is not necessary to prune them up to a sharp thin top. The better plan is to round them oft' a little, which adds to their firmness and stability at the top without interfering with their uniformity below. This, however, is generally understood and acted upon by hedgers, and needs no further com- ment. J. W. culture. If a school of forestry is to be esta- blished at all it could have no better connection than the Highland and Agricultural Society, and this has been advocated to a certain extent in the columns of The Gabden years ago by myself. It is a healthy sign of the times to know that proprie- tors and others are beginning to bestir themselves in the interests of forestry and tree culture, and if their efforts are conducted in a proper manner, it is to be hoped they will ultimately be crowned with success. I believe the Board of Forestry wished to be established is to be a department by itself under the Board of Agriculture. — J. B. Webster. Tree planting on waste land.— If there is one county in England where tree planting ought to be extensively pushed on it is Hampshire, where thousands of acres of Crown land produce nothing but Gorse or Brambles. That it is not first-rate land tor agricultural purposes need not hinder the operation, as trees of all kinds that are suitable for timber or firewood grow freely if once they get a start, and there can be little doubt but that if large breadths of forest trees were planted they would not only add value to the soil they are growing on, but also to the adjacent lands, as they would not only attract more rain in summer, but also effectually break the wind in winter. No better outlay could be undertaken either by the Govern- ment on their own land orby Local Boards on ground that comes under their rule than that of planting trees. I am well aware that a good many streets have been planted with trees. This, however, is not the sort of planting that is wanted, but out in the open country or as belts by roadsides. It would be well in selecting the varieties to use more judgment than is exercised over street trees as a rule, for in these the Poplar predominates over far more useful trees such as the Oak, the Elm, and the Fir. In planting it is always well to note what trees thrive best in the locality, and in this neighbourhood the Elm is by far the most plentiful of any of the forest trees that attain useful timber size, although in more inland parts of the county, such as in the New Forest, a great variety of trees grows with equal freedom. It is surely time to look to our home supply, as there is little planting done compared with the needs of the country, and much of the foreign supply is getting exhausted.— J. G., Hants. A school of forestry.— At a meeting of the directors of the Highland and Agricultural Society, held at 3, George 4th Bridge, Edinburgh, on the .sth inst, a memorial was presented to the president on the subject of establishing a school of forestry in connection with the Board of Agri- TEEES FOR AVENUES. The charm of a place often lies in its variety of treatment, and where there is scope enough for formal lines of trees they always give a certain dig- nity if rightly placed. But the trees should be selected to harmonise with the situation. Dense heavy-foliaged trees, such as the Beech and Horse Chestnut, are not suited to a confined space. The effect is too sombre and dark, and where the sun's rays cannot penetrate the ever-changing charm of the play of light and shade is absent. The heavy- foliaged trees are only suitable for the wide ex- panse of lawn or park scenery. Walnuts, Planes, and Limes are thinner of foliage and may be selected to fill a situation where the Horse Chestnut and the Beech would not be appropriate. To give variety, the Turkey Oak makes a grand avenue tree, and our own old English Oak when full of years has a picturesque grandeur about it which cannot be sur- passed. The Huntingdon Elm is a noble tree for forming long lines, especially where the planter has grasped the situation and allowed space enough between the lines, and also between the trees in the lines. The Sweet or Spanish Chestnut is a noble park tree, but it must have room. The silver-barked Birch, the Lady of the Woods, is not heavy enough for forming avenues in the open park, but run a double or quadruple line through an open glade in an extensive wood and fill in beneath with Rhodo- dendrons, or even the common Laurel, or, better still, plant the round-leaved Laurel (Cerasus rotundi- folia), and a charming feature will be created, the interest of which will increase with years. The evergreen undergrowth must be kept dwarf by pruning if need be to show off the white stems of the Birches. The Douglas Fir is another tree to form an avenue up the hill-side, and its relative, the Spanish Silver Fir (Picea Pinsajio), is an ex- ceedingly interesting tree for skirting a broad walk running through the dressed grounds. Everybody is acquainted with the merits of the Cedar of Lebanon as an avenue tree. Its hardiness and its adaptability to every soil and situation, as also its rapid growth, are well known. When once well established the Deodar Cedar is a very graceful tree, but it must have shelter from cold winds, and this detracts from its usefulness. The Mount Atlas Cedar is hardier and more useful than the Deodar, though lacking in the graceful growth and beauty of tint which has always made the Deodar so attractive. The Monkey Puzzle, or Araucaria inibricata, hand- some though it may be, is too uncertain in its growth to be recommended for general planting. The same may be said of the Wellingtonia. I have seen some grand trees round the western coast, but inland it does not seem happy after it outgrows its shelter. The Holly is not often used as an avenue tree, but I have seen it effectively employed to outline woodland walks, the green and variegated varieties being planted alternately. For forming avenues in seaside gardens Cupressus macrocarpa is specially to be recommended. E. H. Scotch Fir (Pinus sylvestris).— This from its beautiful glaucous tint is more appreciated than any other of the Conifer family. We have here a small wood composed entirely of evergreen Firs, each kind being planted in blocks of about 400. The kinds comprise the Austrian, Corsican, and Scotch Pines, and a batch of the common Spruce. A narrow winding path runs around the wood, about 10 feet from the edge, from which a good view can be obtained of all. The Austrian and Corsican are the tallest (7 feet), having made the most rapid growth, the Scotch 5 feet, the Spruce average 4 feet. There is no doubt but that ever- green Firs present a better appearance in blocks of one sort only than when mixed up together. Here on our strong soil the Scotch Fir is preferred to the Austrian Pine as a nurse or shelter to Larch, not only on account of cheapness, which is a great consideration where many are required, but because it grows more quickly when once established. I do not speak disparagingly of the Austrian Pine as a shelter plant in very exposed situations, but where the position is not too bleak nor near the sea-coast I think the Scotch Fir is the better, not only on the score of cost and quick growth, but also from the rich glaucous tint which it presents. — S. H. THE BLACK WALNUT. In The Garden, Dec. 28 (p. 612), the merits of the wild Black Cherry (Prunus serotina) and the Black Walnut as profitable timber trees are discussed, and in doing so the writer says : " Black Walnut trees will not all make saw-logs when planted 2 feet or 3 feet apart. The common-sense way would be to plant them at least 20 feet apart, and fill in with cheap rapid-growing trees that could be cut out in time, leaving the whole space to the Walnuts." The treatment here recommended for the Walnut is practical and commendable, but who ever saw or heard of the Black Cherry or any other timber tree in this country attaining the size and dimensions of saw logs when planted at 2 feet and 3 feet apart 1 and I have no hesitation in saying that should planters base their calculations on such teaching, they will find themselves grievously mistaken. When trees are planted at such a distance apart and not thinned out they attain the size of drawn-up poles and spars, but very few of them even reach the dimensions of half-tree sleeper-wood, not to speak of saw-log timber, which implies a much larger size of scantling. When cutting down plan- tations of this class I have always found the largest and best trees at places where some trees had died off in their immediate proximity in early life, thus clearly showing that to grow trees to a good size they must be allowed a reasonable amount of space for their profitable development. In places, how- ever, where there is a demand for drawn up poles and spars, such a crop is very remunerative, and often gives a better return to the proprietor than where the trees have been thinned and a certain number left upon the ground to mature their growth and form timber trees of large size. This, however, depends a great deal on two things; first, locality; and second, the capabilities of the soil. With regard to the Walnut, it never has been planted in large quantities as a profitable timber tree in Great Britain or Ireland, this arising in a great measure from its growing so slowly, for although it attains a large size and is a tree of the first magni- tude, yet the slowness of its growth has had a ten- dency to hamper its extension except for ornamental purposes. Some of the finest old Walnut trees in the north are at Otterstone, Fifeshire, where one tree is recorded to have a girth of 18 feet at 20 feet from the ground, and another girthed 10 feet at 12 feet from the ground. Both trees were sold at a little over £50 for cabinet work, the roots having been sold for gun-stocks and veneering. Notwith- standing these prices they have failed to induce proprietors to plant the Walnut in large quantities for profit. .T. B. Webster. "The Garden" Monthly 7s.Tts.— This journal U pi'hl,Kh<s( free, 1«. ^d. Complete set of rolunies of The Garden /ro»t its commencenunt to end of 1SS9, thirty-six vols., priee, cloth, £27 ; whole calf, £36; half morocco, £3'Z Ss. " Farm and Home " Monthly Parts. — This joni'iiiil m jiiiiiliiiliid in neatly bov nil JMonthlif I'lirts, in irhick form it is most snitabte for reference jmrions to the issue of the yearly rolnmes. Price 5d, ; j^ost free, Sd. " The Garden Annual " for 1890. — Contains Alphabetical Lists of all Branches of the Hortirultural Trade coii'ected %cp to Korember 10 laM. The Lists of Gardens and Country Seats (containi7ig over SOOO) have been very carefully aild extensively revised, and are admitted to be the most complete ever published. Priee Is..- by post, \s. 3rf. London: 2iJ, Southampton Street, Strand, W.C. ' THE GARDEN. 69 No. 949. SATURDAY, Jan. 25,1890. Vol. XXXVII. " This is an Art Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare. A THAW IN WINTER. Fi5w things are more delightful in the outdoor garden than a thaw after a hard frost. While the frost lasted all seemed so hopeless. In my own garden during the hard frost of De- cember everything looked wretchedly dreary. The leaves of numerous Cyclamens, which are grouped round the roots of some tall Plane trees, were absolutely black and shrivelled. The leaves of the hardiest shrubs were limp and hanging down as if life were taken from them. In one night all was changed. To- wards dusk the vanes on the pinnacles of the church tower ve«red round and pointed south- west. In the night a heavy fall of rain altered the whole aspect of things in the morning. Getting up, I noticed steam on the outside instead of the inside of the window panes, denoting that the temperature of the air was higher outside than indoors. Later on in the day the sun shone out with that yellow, slanting ray which is peculiarly cha- racteristic of the midwinter sun. Then came the " voyage autour de mon jardin " — a tour of inspection — to see what damage " Jack Frost " had done. But lo, it seems as if that "grata vice veris et favoni," of which old Horace sang, had really come to pass. Though it is still December, somehow one feels some- thing of spring in every gentle breeze which stirs those few withered leaves which have marvellously escaped the ruthless sweepings of the gardener's broom. The air is positively balmy. Instead of the dejection and the misery in plant life but two days ago, all things seem invigorated with new strength. Those poor mangled Cyclamen leaves are now .expanded in all their beauty, and they are so beautiful with their varied markings. Cro- cuses and Snowdrops are pushing in all direc- tions, and even Hyacinths seem to think they may venture now to push their flower- laden noses through the loosened earth ; and a very respectable nosegay could be made up of hardy things actually in flower. There are red and white Christmas Eoses in full beauty, and for scent the Chimonanthus fra- grans and a good sprinkling of Violets. Cy- clamen Atkinsi in the three colours, red, rose, and white, though so much smaller than their gigantic brethren of the greenhouse, are little gems of loveliness amongst their soft green leaves, and looking very fresh and much en- joying the thaw. Snowdrops in another week with the bright yellow Aconites will add to the bunch of small things, and Primroses of various colours al- ready in flower will make it gay. All these things make the thaw very inter- esting and pleasant. Even the Palm, which is permitted a blanket in very hard weather in the shape of a mat tied round it, looks happy with its long green fingers released from bondage. It is a plant of Chamserops humilis, which likes its out-of-door life im- mensely, and contrasts pleasantly with its neighbour, a huge Bamboo, in the winter, and with Castor-oil plants and Cannas in the sum- mer time. How delicious is the thaw ! I do not mind the portentous grumbles of would-be skaters, who declare that a green Christmas means all sorts of dreadful things. I hold with the old hunting squire that the weather is the right sort, at all events for a time ; and I know very well that the old dame, who is always complaining under frosty skies of "that there wheezing, cranking cough which the doctors do call Brown Titus," will altogether bless this happy change to mild weather, though it may be unseasonable. If these hardy border plants which we do not now remorselessly throw away to make room for their gorgeous neighbours, summer bedders, could only speak, they would shout their praise of this delicious thaw. A Gloucestehshire Parson. Flower Garden. EARLY SPRING FLOWERS IN CHESHIRE. The early development of spring flowers in my garden in West Cheshire deserves to be re- corded, though I am afraid many of them must be utterly spoilt before they complete their flowering. On this cold clay soil early flowers are generally a fortnight later than they are in the neighbourhood of London. This year they are about a month earlier than usual. The warm and sunny weather of last May and June, which lasted till July 10, ripened spring bulbs better than they have been ripened for several years. But the wet weather, which began be- fore the middle of July and lasted through summer, caused most of them to start into growth prematurely. Still I have never seen a stronger and healthier growth than is shown by most of them up to this date (Jan. 20). The first of them to flower were some of Iris reticu- lata section. I. Bakeriana flowered (all I men- tion are growing in the open ground without any protection) about Dec. 20, and stood the Christmas frosts pretty well. I. sophonensis came out about New Year's Day, and the flowers were eaten ofl' by slugs at once. I. His- trio began about Jan. 6, and was unhurt by 10' of frost. A week later I had several flowers on I. reticulata var. cterulea. The type reticulata, which seldom flowers here till March, is in forward bud all over the garden, but none have opened a flower. Crocus Imperati, which is planted in nearly all my flower beds, never had a better time. Some were open before Christ- mas, but the greatest display was from Jan. 10 to Jan. 20, when many of the days were warm and sunny, and these Crocuses were a great de- light to the early bees. I have tried protecting some of my finest bunches with a cloche, but if this is done the cloche ought never to remain on when the sun is out, otherwise the petals be- come reflexed and cannot recover themselves, withering prematurely. The flowering of the scarlet Anemone hor- tensis is remarkable. Clumps which hardly produced a flower last year are now crowded with buds, and the tubers, owing to the baking they got last June, during which many of them were lying on the surface of the ground, having been dug up, as my habit is, to help the ripen- ing. I regret that neither the flowers nor leaves of this plant can withstand severe winter weather, and they are likely soon to be much damaged. Anemone blanda showed its first flowers about January 10. Many are now open, and they are not easUy damaged. Narcissus minimus, which shows yellow almost as soon as its first green leaves break the soil, opened on Jan. 10, the first flowers being soon followed by others. All the Daflbdils are for- ward, but no other kind will flower here this month, even if warm weather continues. The Snowdrops, which are out generally, began about New Year's Day, Galanthus Imperati being the earliest. Some new bulbs, bought as G. umbricus, but which seem to be G. Imperati, were two or three days before the others. I have never known the winter Aco- nites here break the surface before New Year's Day until this winter, when many little yellow buttons were seen before Christmas. I must not boast of my Christmas Roses, but the hybrid varieties of what are called Lent Roses are doing unusually well. About one-third of a hundred or more plants in sheltered comers and close against north walls, where they never see the sun, are now at their best, and they have never been better. The earliest are the mottled dark purple kinds of the abchasicus type. Next to these are the greenish white, favouring H. olympicus in the cross, whilst orientalis and guttatus are a little late, colehicus flowering last. These Hellebores are generally spoilt in exposed places, but if out of the wind and sun can stand many degrees of frost without damage. Andromeda floribunda and Erica carnea and mediterranea are gay on the Ameri- can beds. The flowers I have mentioned, with a liberal show of Primroses and Hepaticas and a few good bulbs of the pink Cyclamen coum, or perhaps a hybrid of it, of which I wish I had more, have made a very gay January garden, a favour which we ought to acknowledge what- ever may be in store for us in February and March. C. Wolley Dod. Edge Hall, Malpas. NOTES FROM FOTA. With these notes I send yon a few flowers gathered from shrubs in the open air to show the mildness of the season. Acacia dealbata. — The flowers sent were gathered from a tree over 20 feet high, a perfect pyramid furnished to the ground. The point of every twig is furnished witli its golden cluster of flowers, as sent to yon, with its pretty Fern-like leaves and flowers. It is now a pleasing object in the landscape. CoRKEA viRiDis. — This, although not a very showy fl( ■wer, is most interesting at this dull season of the year. It ei.mtinues a long time in bloom and stands the wet iind cold without any apparent injury. Hakea pugioniformis. — This is an Australian slow- gi-owing shrub, which is now fall of its strange little flowers. Clianthus magnificus has been in flower for some time, and if the weather continues mild it will flower 1( .r months, as many of last year's growths are 4 feet in length, and from the axil of every leaf hangs a long raceme of flower-bnds. This moist climate suits this beautiful trailing shrub admirably. Camellias on walls are also in full flower. CoLLETIA CRUCIATA (bictoncnsis) has been in flower all winter. This strange-looking plant should be in all collections of hardy shrubs where it would grow. I mention this shrub because it is often stated that it is merely a sport from C. horrida. C. horrida flowers in spring and matures its seeds. It also blooms more freely and has coloured flowers. CoUetia cruciatji has white flowers and solitary. FiAKLY FLOWERING RHODODENDRONS. — Flowers of these we could cut in any quantity, and we find them very useful for house decoration. I might note many other plants that are now in flower, but I have mentioned enough to show the mildness of the season. The absence of berries on hardy shrubs has been very marked this winter, A 70 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 25, 1890. pleasing exception has been the Benthamia fragi- fera, the branches of which have been laden with the ornamental Strawberry-like frnit. In conse- quence, however, of the want of other berries, the birds have taken these much earlier than usual. Foia, Cork. W. 0. CYCLAMEN EUROPIUM. I DOUBT if there is any cultivated plant the flowers of which exhale so powerful a perfume in proportion to their size as those of this little hardy Cyclamen. I could not help remarking this last summer when opening a frame occasionally in which there hap- pened to be a plant with two or three expanded blooms on it. Judging from the volume of perfume that came out, one might easily have thought that the frame was full of bloom. It seems very strange that such a little flower should be so wonderfully fragrant, and the more so that the other members of the genus are not remarkable in this way. This species seems to have concentrated in itself the fragrance of the whole family, for although sweet- scented flowers are found in persicum, they are by no means plentiful. On account of its delicious per- fume, I think that this Cyclimen is worth growing in pots, for a plant or two would sufBce to fill a mode- rate-sized greenhouse with fragrance, and would also probably be appreciated in the dwelling. Al- though numbers of bulbs of this Cyclamen are yearly introduced into English gardens from their native habitat, they are not often seen in a thriving condition in this country, the reason undoubtedly being that they are torn out in a rough manner just at the wrong time of year. I am pleased to know that this destruction is likely to be put an end to. It is little short of wanton mischief to root up plants of this description when in full growth, and the per- petrators derive little or no benefit by such ruthless work, as the corms are so weakened that they gene- rally die later on. Those who require a stock of this Cyclamen should not depend upon the cheap im- ported bulbs. It is far better to purchase home- grown plants, put them in a suitable position and save seeds, which are readily produced and that germinate with tolerable certainty. I think that this is one secret of success with all the hardy Cyclamens. I do not know if my experience is that of others, but somehow plants raised at home from seed of one's own saving always seem to go away more freely and are less liable to die out. In one respect C. enroplants, and this will induce them to form bushy little specimens. The best place to winter them in is on a shelf or stage in a dry, light, and comfortably warm green- house, the object being to keep the plants grow- ing very steadily on through the winter. In the end of May or early in June give the plants their final shift into tj-inch or 7-inch pots, using the compost as previously recommended, drain the pots well, and ram 'the soil in very firmly around the roots. All that is necessary after the plants are in their flowering pots is to set them on a bed of coal ashes in a sunny spot in the open air, and attend well to watering and stopping the shoots, and nipping off all flower-buds that show themselves till the end of August, when the two latter practices should be discontinued. House the plants as soon as the nights begin to feel chilly, and continue giving them plenty of air as long as the weather is favourable. When dull and cold increase the temperature, which should range from 50° at night to .">5° to 60° by day, with a little air on the house at the top and sides also unless it is windy. The house in which zonal Pelargoniums are placed for winter flower- ing should be a light, well-heated, and ventilated structure. In watering, care must be taken not to wet the foliage more than is possible, and a little weak, clear guano water occasionally given will be very beneficial. Under this treatment, there will be no scarcity of bloom throughout the winter. As regards varieties, amongst the many now in cultivation, and which are all more or less good, the following well-tried kinds may be selected with perfect confidence : Vesuvius, F. V. Raspail, Wonderful, and Silvio in the scarlet section ; Olivia Carr, Lady Shef- field, and Rose Rendatler are good pinks ; Joan of Arc and Eureka are among the best of the whites ; and President Thiers and Sophie Birkin are good salmons. Other very desirable varie- ties are : Henri Jacoby (a splendid kind), John Gibbons, Colonel Seely. H. Trees and Shrubs. PLANTS FOR WALLS. If the saying, often quoted, respecting the her- baceous border, " that its great attraction is in the fact that there are very few days in the year when something may not be found in flower," is true, it might also apply to walls that are covered with climbing plants in variety. In old-fashioned gardens there are generally some odd comers and bits of wall sometimes of considerable length that are not required for fruit growing, and a judicious planting of climbers in variety will give not only a nice show of flower for many months in the year, but furnish in many instances abundance of material for cutting. There is something very homely and natural about these old climber- clad walls at any rate where the plants are allowed to have their own w,%y to a considerable extent, and are not cut and nailed in symme- trical lines hard in to the wall. The old Chi- monanthus is very full of flower this year, and has furnished us with an abundant supply of bloom since the beginning of December, the weather not having been of suflicient severity to seriously damage the flowers. There may, no doubt, be many larger plants than ours, but I think its dimensions worth noting, covering as it does a space of wall 25 feet long and 15 feet high. Intending planters of this old favourite should try and get the variety known as grandi- florus when it can possibly be obtained, as it is considerably larger, of a much deeper colour, and I fancy even more fragrant than the old variety. The buds of Cydonia japonica and the white and rose varieties of this well-known plant are .swelling fast, and witb a continuation of the present mild weather will soon open into flower. The white variety does not seem very well known at present ; it is, however, a very handsome wall plant, and a large specimen is a very attractive object when the flowers are fully expanded. This particular sort grows very fast with us, and would quickly cover a large space of wall. Other very old wall plants here are 78 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 25, 1890. Cercis canadensis, Benthamia fragifera, and Forsythia suspensa, but the two tirst-named are hardly adapted for the purpose, and in no case must they be planted close to any walk where tolerably hard pruning is necessary, for flowering as they do on the young wood, there is a consequent removal of bloom with all spur- ring in. What is the experience of readers of The Garden with respect to the newer varie- ties of Ueanothus .' The flowers are finer, but I have not found the plants so hardy as those of C. azureus, nor can they boast of the semi-ever- green feature which is a welcome characteristic of the old variety. The Honeysuckles cannot be left out, as if there is plenty of wall room they make a pleasing display and shed a delight- ful perfume. I have a large plant of brachy- poda and one of Clematis Jackmani in close proximity, and they have a pretty efl'ect when clothed with flowers. I would not advise the planting of either Deutzias or Spira/as against walls, except perhaps one or two of the small wLry-like varieties of the last named that seem naturally to require support, as S. prunifolia fl.-pl. ; with very few exceptions they are more at home in the open shrubbery. No wall de- voted to climbing plants would be complete with- out its Roses, and there is no doubt that Gloire de Dijon is the best all round variety for the purpose. It does wonderfully well here in West Surrey, many cottage walls in the immediate vicinity being completely covered with it. In addition to Gloire de Dijon we have Maruchal Niel, Lamarque, Solfaterre, Safrano, Aim6e Vibert, and Ophirie ; these all do fairly well, the last three being the most satisfactory. Ophirie especially is a useful Rose and furnished us with occasional button-hole buds until shortly before Christmas in the season of 1889. Safrano flowers with great freedom, but I find it very susceptible to mildew. The white and yellow Banksians are very useful for covering an ob- jectionable building quickly, making wonderful annual growth if they are fairly well suited in the matter of soil, and they are all the better for this particular purpose from their semi-ever- green character. True Evergreens should not enter too largely into the planting of walls, as they are apt to give a heavy appearance, and as few of them flower with any great profusion they usurp the place of brighter plants. Mag- nolia grandiflora, the Escallouias, and the varie- gated Buckthorns are useful for the purpose, and one of each may be used with advantage, espe- cially in a considerable length of wall, as they relieve the naked aspect that comes with the leaf- shedding of most of the flowering shrubs. Claremont. E. Burrell. Chimonanthus fragrans.— This deliciously scented, winter-flowering shrub, referred to by Mr. Crump, succeeds very well in the mixed shrubbery, in the south of England, at any rate. At the present time we have two plants, one in the mixed shrubbery, the other occupying a portion of the kitchen garden wall facing east. Both are freely covered with buds and blooms, but I have observed that the one in the shrubbery does not so quickly recover from the effects of a sharp frost as that on the wall, on which, at the end of two or three fine days succeeding a frost of 10° or 12° severity, the buds again burst into full bloom, evidently no worse for the temporary check received. The plant in the shrubbery takes a longer time to recover, thus showing the advantage in planting this shrub against a wall. — S. Poisoning by Box.— Dr. White, of Harvard University, reports in the Boston Mciiieal Journal an interesting case of poisoning from Box. The patient was a young woman suffering from an attack of acute inflammation of the face, which was uniformly and greatly swollen, presenting I generally the appearance of Rhus or Ivy poisoning. She had, it appeared, made a decoction of garden Box, and applied it to her scalp for the purpose of preventing her hair from falling out, and the liquid had run down over the face, which she had subse- quently washed with the rag used in applying the liquid to the scalp. The inflammation, in spite of local treatment, had not disappeared at the end of six or seven days from the time of the application. Dr. White remarks that this is the first case of poisoning by Box which has come under his obser- vation, although the poisonous properties of the plant have been suspected for many centuries, as it belongs to a family containing violent and cutane- ous irritants. CHOICE FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR HANTS. For the information of " D. H. G." (Garden, Jan. II, p. 43), I cannot do better than furnish him with a list of shrubs and trees of which I have had ex- perience here during the last ten years. At the outset I would say that the garden here is situated on the top of a hill 395 feet above sea level, and f ally exposed on the south-west, south, and eastern aspects. Fairly good protection is afforded on the north side where the greater number of the shrubs is growing. Although in a chalk dis- trict the part where the garden is situated is not absolutely a chalk soil, but it is highly impregnated with chalk, much having been mixed with the soil for many years, so much so that Rhododendrons will not grow at all unless special preparation has been made for them. In planting the various subjects we endeavour to obtain the best results by substituting leaf- mould, wood ashes, vegetable refuse mixed with wood ashes, old potting soil, horse manure, silver and common yellow sand, and lastly, peat, which is the scarcest article of any. This has to be brought many miles; therefore what we do get has to be made the most of. It would be utterly useless to plant many trees, and especially Conifers, with- out the aid of some of the materials named. Even after three or four years we find it necessary to add more of such soils around that already given at planting time, for as soon as the roots reach the outside of that which is artificial they refuse to go any further. Take the Hemlock Spruce, for in- stance. This after having been planted two years in the natural soil almost died, but with some of the compost mentioned above applied round the roots the same trees now flourish. Many more instances might be quoted to show the uselessness of plant- ing trees and shrubs that are known to dislike chalk unless some soil is added to give the trees a start. The following evergreen and deciduous shrubs succeed well here: — Akehia c[uiaata Amelanchier florida liotryapium Ariiygdalus communis Arbutus Unedo Aristolochia Sipho Berberis Beali Darwini Broom, lemon and white vars. Buddleia globosa Calophaca Wolgarica Catalpa syringtefolia Ceanothus in variety Cherry, double white Chimouanthus fragrans Choisya ternata Clematis of sorts Coronilla f^lauca Cotoneaster miorophylla Sinamonsi Deutzia crenata fl.-pl. gracilis scabra EscaUonia macrantha moutevidensis Exochorda gi-andiflora I do not think it would be labour absolutely lost to import pe.at for the bog garden, as the chalk stream would not injure the plants un- less in actual contact with them. Many sub- jects could be planted in the peat close to the Forsytliia viridissiraa Garrja elliptica Hypericum patulnm Jasmines of sorts Kerria japonica Laburnum Leycesteria formosa Lilacs Lonicera of sorts Magnolia conspiciia Myrtus communis Pa'ony Moutan Philadelphus coronarius Pyrus Malus fluribunda spectabilis rosea plena Pyracantha Rhus Cotinus Ribes sauguinea Robinia hispida Spirieaariastolia callosa Reevsi Tamarisk Vibm-num plicatum Weigela rosea Wistaria sinensis stream without any injury whatever. We grow here many American plants, such as Kalmias, Azaleas, Andromedas, Heaths, and Rhododendrons, and all succeed well. When the beds were first made here we thought to utilise some rotted turf that was on the site by mixing it with the peat, but we found it to be a great mistake, as the Rho- dodendrons refused to grow in it at all ; in two years' time we had to take them up, turn over the whole mass of soil, and add a considerable quantity of fresh peat and sand. Since the plants have been in the fresh soil they have done well. Edwin Molyneux. THE ZELKOWA. (ZBLKOVA CRENATA.) This is usually considered a rare tree, but my opinion now is that from its great resemblance to the Elm it is often overlooked and confounded with it. That it is a tree of great beauty, and one that is peculiarly well suited for planting in this coun- try, a visit to the fine old specimens at Kew, Syon, and Holme Lacy (near Hereford) should convince even the most sceptical. The Holme Lacy tree is a noble specimen, with a clean straight bole and a plentiful supply of regularly distributed branches, the foliage, too, being perfect in every respect. Near the herbarium at Kew many a visitor has stood and admired the fine old Zelkowa, for in truth it is a noble tree, although not equal to that at Hereford, being, I should say, about 60 feet high, and with a stem :', yards in girth at breast high. Tlie largest of the Zelkowasat Syon beats the Kew specimen, but is inferior to that at Hereford, at least in height and regularity of outline. Some of the finest trees in this country are fully a century and a quarter old, they having been sent home about 1760, and it is not unreasonable to suppose that the three above- named specimens are part of the first consignment. In general contour the Zelkowa is neither exces- sively pyramidal nor yet far-spreading of branch, approaching more nearly in outline the Cornish Elm (Ulmus cornubiensis) than any other tree I can call to mind. This semi-fastigiate habit of growth renders it especially suitable for planting as an avenue tree, or for placing in the angle formed by the junction of two roads and where space is somewhat con- fined. Young specimens of, say, twenty years' growth have a most distinct and peculiar appear- ance from the upright course taken by all the branches, and as the stem, the result of grafting, is usually destitute of branches, the appearance given is more that of an inverted broom than anything else I can think of. Thick and twiggy describes well the head of the tree, while the stem is furrowed deeply longitudin- ally, and is in most cases straight and well formed. To the leaves of the Elm those of the Zelkowa have a striking resemblance, but they are smoother and more glossy of surface, and more evenly and closely dentated. Altogether this is a handsome, free-growing, and easily-managed tree, and it adds quite a charm to the scene when placed near some of our more spreading and flat-headed park or lawn specimens. It delights in a rather moist alluvial soil, but in this respect it is certainly far from par- ticular, as there are not a few trees of the Zelkowa in the midland English counties, and trees, too, of no mean proportions, that have been planted in anything but a rich loam. Few trees in my experi- ence take ill to a rich alluvial deposit, whether they are coniferous or hard-wooded, and the Zelkowa is certainly no exception to the rule, for that the finest specimens in this country are planted in such a soil a visit to Syon will show. Generally, the Zelkowa is grafted on a stock of the Elm, and it is not at all unusual to find throughout certain specimens leaves of both the Beech and Hornbeam on the same tree. This is a peculiarity that has been unnoticed by most writers, but in several specimens of my acquaintance the diversity of leafage is somewhat remarkable, and has caused no little comment in the neighbourhood where they are growing. Extremes meet, and of this upright-growing tree Jan. 25, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 79 there is a pendent or weeping variety, but it is of no particnlar use nor beauty. As usual, I would recommend lovers of distinct and rare hardy trees to make a note of the Zelkowa, for that it is worth a chosen spot few who have seen any of the larger English specimens will care to deny. A. D. Wbbsteb. THE COMMON AND OTHER PRIVETS. I AM at a loss to understand how anyone can fail to appreciate the beauty of this when in bloom. I should not be surprised at exception being taken to its perfume, for I think that there is something very sickly in the odour that large bushes give off, and I have heard people, especially ladies, complain that it gives them the headache. For this reason I do not advise its being planted near the dwelling, that is, if it is to be allowed to grow in the way of other flowering shrubs. The Privet, however, grows so strongly and blooms with such regularity and profusion, that it is not at all necessary to give it a front place. Neither do I recommend it for small gardens, as where space is limited there is a natural desire to have something more choice than such a common thing as Privet, however ornamental it may be. But where there is a large extent of ground to be occupied in some way, there are al- ways positions where large bushes of the Privet may form a pleasing feature. It would certainly be better co plant Privet than many things now commonly used to help fill large shrubberies and plantations, and these have little but their vigorous nature to recommend them for such a purpose. I must admit that I would much rather see Privet used as an ornamental shrub than in the way in which it is so commonly employed. Privet hedges look neat when well kept, but their beauty is ob- tained at the expense of whatever may be cultivated near them. I have seen kitchen gardens bordered with Privet, and have wondered that so great a mis- take could be made, for a space of quite 4 feet from a Privet hedge is never fit to grow anything on. The thick mat of fibrous roots robs the soil near them of nourishment and moisture to a greater ex- tent than those of any Evergreen I know, and being made near the surface their evil effects are more apparent. I should never think of enclosing cultivated ground with Privet hedges unless the paths were made alongside them, as then there would not be the loss of space for growing crops. The Chinese Privet is far too little planted. It blooms at a time when there is little to be seen in flower in shrubberies. It is of rather a loose habit, bat this is no drawback to its use where shrubs and trees of various heights and vigour are inter- mingled. The Japan Privet is a handsome compact- growing shrub that is suited to gardens of even moderate extent. It is not frequently seen in small villa gardens, for which it is well fitted. J. C. B. of small birds would be to rob rural life of its greatest charm. Those who have ridden many miles in trains over a flat country where the only feature in the foreground was a low hard-trimmed Quick-set hedge cannot fail to have unpleasant pre- sentiment in their minds of what our rural roads and lanes would be like were all field hedges of the same formal style. In a kept garden a restricted hedgerow is a necessity, or otherwise far too much of space would be occupied. Still so far as hedges of Holly, Portugal Laurel, or other Evergreens are con- cerned, neither shears nor trimming hook should be employed, but the knife, and if the time occupied in trimming was considerable, the resultant beauty of the hedge would be great. Holly is the finest of all Evergreens tor fencing. Yew or Cupressus Lawsoniana and Portugal Laurel are the best for inside hedges, but for all ordinary field purposes nothing seems to excel White Thorn. — A. D. Berberis Beali. — Has anyone noticed the de lightful perfume of the flowers of this Berberis which blooms freely just now when other flowering subjects in the shrubbery are scarce ? The scent reminds one very much of that of Boronia mega- stigma. Apart from this quality this Berberis is a capital plant for the shrubbery or as a specimen on the Grass. When established thoroughly the growth is free, the leaves being long and heavily covered with sharp spines. The flowers are borne in clusters at the points of the shoots. This Ber- beris objects to removal, often showing its dislike to this treatment by partial loss of the lower leaves, and in some cases nearly all. — S. Hedgerows. — Utilitarian as gardeners must of necessity be in thought, yet I doubt whether there are many who would willingly see sacrificed the singular beauty, rugged and picturesque, yet so very pleasing, found in the unkempt hedgerows of our country roads and fields. To have all these, hard trimmed like Dutch Yews, presenting an eternal monotony in outline, would render country life almost unendurable. No Blackberries, no Traveller's Joy, no Dog Roses, no Hips and Haws, no delight- ful HoUv bushes, and little of cover for our myriads THE POISON IVY. (RHUS TOXICODENDEON.) The poisonous properties of Rhus toxicodendron, the Poison Ivy, or, as some authors style it, the Poison Oak, have long been recognised, and a drug known by the name of Rhus in the homtcopathio pharmacopoeia is extracted from it. But I think few persons are aware what a dangerous plant it is to cultivate in the garden. Some friends of mine who live near Dublin have suffered considerably from acute eczema for the last five summers. The family consists of father, mother, and three children, all of whom suffered from the complaint more or less and at various times. Visitors staying in the house were also attacked. As the disease did not give way to the remedies employed, the drains, &c., were thoroughly overhauled and put into perfect order, but to no purpose ; the eczema was just as bad as before, and no one suspected that the real cause was a plant of Rhus toxicodendron which was grow- ing in the garden. Jly friends changed their house and unfortunately took a plant of the Rhus with them ; the eczema, of course, went too. It was then noticed that persons were worse when in or after having been in the garden, and at last the cause of all the illness and discomfort which the household had experienced was traced to its source. A medi- cal man, a relative of the family, writing to the British Medical Journal, says — The attack begins either on the hands or eyelids, the latter no doubt being innoculated by poison carried to them by the fingers, aud forms large pimples, which soon begin to exude serum and form crusts, causing a general swelling of the parts attacked. The inside of the thighs and neighbouring parts, face, ears, and neck are also attacked and swollen as with crysipi'las— great debility, depression of spirits and prostratii u accom- panying each attack. Contact with the plant does not seem necessary, but merely standing in its neighbour- hood may be followed by an attack which lasts from ten to fourteen dajs. The poison is more powerful in the summer than in the winter. No doubt some persons are much more liable to be affected by certain things than others, and many may be able to be near and even handle this plant with impunity, but it does not appear to be a desir- able plant to have in one's garden. Rhus toxico- dendron belongs to the same genus as the Sumach (Rhus Cotinus), which is so frequently grown in shrubberies and which is not known to have any hurtful properties. Certain species of this genus are used for dyeing, and the leaves of the Poison Ivy are said to give a brown stain. G. S. S. The flowers are of a rich golden yellow, while the centre is bright red. So numerous are the flowers, that the long, twisted petals appear like a cloud of gold. Another Wych Hazel is Hamamelis japonica, somewhat in the way of the last, but it is a smaller growing plant, and the flowers, instead of the rich golden yellow of H. arborea, are more of a lemon tint. They are also somewhat later in expanding. The flowers of the Hamamelis resist a certain amount of frost, but should it be very severe they are greatly injured, that is if the blooms are fully expanded, for in the bud state they seem proof against our most severe winters. The oldest spe- cies of Hamamelis is the Wych Hazel of the United States (H. virginica), introduced into this country about a century and a half ago. It usually com- mences to flower about the end of November, and often lasts for a month or more In this stage, but at no time is it so showy as its Japanese relatives. These last are also wonderfully pretty under glass, and I have had cut sprays of H. arborea retain their beauty for weeks indoors. — T. Wych. Hazel (Hamamelis arborea).— This Ja- panese Wych Hazel is one of the earliest in bloom among hardy shrubs, and this year, owing to the absence of frost for the last fortnight, it is more than usually beautiful, the entire specimen being one mass of its quaint, but showy blossoms. H. ar- borea is of a somewhat erect, twiggy growth, and clothed with simple. Hazel-like leaves. It is during the summer by no means conspicuous, and it is not at all remarkable for its autumnal tints ; but dur- ing the first two months of the year it is, should the weather be mild, very beautiful out of doors. SHRUBBERY BORDERS. The borders and margins of shrubberies generally are often but poorly filled with a mixed and nn- suited assortment of various hardy and other plants huddled together without any system of arrange- ment or chance of flourishing. They are either totally neglected or roughly and rudely disturbed by the orthodox annual, but quite unnecessary digging. This is a good time for making sugges- tions as to the permanent improvement and beau- tifying of the margin of the shrubbery, which is usually in a conspicuous position, and, consequently, merits bold treatment that it may be a feature of interest instead of an eyesore, as is frequently the case. Kirst of all, it must be decided to give up the annual digging, and instead thoroughly prepare the soil before anything is planted in it, and a well pre- pared soil will need no renovation for several years, by which time it may be desirable to change the arrangement when the soil can be renewed; moreover, much can be done by top-dressing, this being far preferable to digging. In the well-ar- ranged shrubbery the taller shrubs are kept in the background, and things generally are naturally graded as to height, but still there is much room for improvement by selecting and planting in in- formal groups upon the margin things that will make it more tasteful and relieve the hard line where Grass ends and shrubbery begins. With dwarf and other shrubs of prostrate habit much interesting work might be done. The dwarf or creeping Junipers, such as the Savin and others, and the creeping Cotoneasters, might be planted in broad informal masses, and their shoots would creep out upon the Grass and back among the taller shrubs. They would make a verdant carpet of vegetation, cheerful to look upon in winter or summer, and carrying the eye up gradu- ally from their foreground of Grass to the taller forms of tree and shrub life behind. Roses of the more vigorous types might be extensively planted, kinds that make long annual shoots which should be pegged down. The margin of the shrubbery offers one of the flnest opportunities for carrying out this charming idea, and surely nothing conld be prettier than a carpet of Roses, contrasting with fresh green Grass and hiding the bare brown earth. There is hardly any position or soil but that something might be selected suitable for it. There is a wealth of dwarf shrubs that could be used in a variety of ways similar to that advised for the Cotoneasters, &c. Leaving the shrubs, we come to hardy plants. Where shrubs are thin we do not need to dig and hoe the ground to keep it clean, because such things as Lily of the Valley, Solomon's Seal, Wood- ruff, &c., will carpet the ground so densely as to exclude weeds or objectionable vegetation, whilst in the more open spaces upon the margin most of our best hardy plants can be as well grown as any- where else, provided the soil is first well prepared. Preference should be given to haidy plants of an 80 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 2.5, 1890. evergreen character, growing the most suitable things extensively in bold informal groups. Here and there, however, it may be possible to work in little colonies of Lilies, or other bulbs that would thrive satisfactorily. The Saxifrages, Sedums, Iberises, Aubrietias, and a host of similar things are most suitable for extensive planting, as they always hide the ground with a beautiful, verdant, and many-hued carpet. We might adapt the shrubbery margin to a variety of the different phases of hardy plant cul- ture, and this would give a greater variety in our gardens, with a corresponding increase in interest and beauty. A. H. Growth of trees. — 1 think it maybe two years ago that I sent you an account of the growth of gome trees here which I measure every January. I now send you the measurements, of girth at 4 feet from the ground as first taken in 1878 and again in the present month, giving the growth of twelve years : — forms a very handsome tree. The Cedars are also thoroughly at home and a few will be added, pre- ference being given to Libani and atlantica. Clarenumt. K. BUREBLL. Ferns. Measure- Measure- Increase ment in ment in in twelve 187S. 1890. 1 years. ft. in. ft. in. ft. in. A Sycamore in garden ... 7 Oi 7 9 8^ An Oak in garden 10 0 10 9J 91 A cut-leaved Alder in gar- den 8 6 9 3 9 A Cryptomeria in garden 2 3J 4 54 2 li A Spanish Chestnut on 1 lawn. This tree has been 1 pollarded 13 10 15 11 2 1 A Spanish Chestnut in park 12 7 11 h 1 5i Ditto ditto 8 8 9 8i 1 Oi — Wm. Wickham, Sinsted WycTt, Altmi, 1 lants. fa- THE PLEASURE GROUND. The present season seems likely to prove vourable for special pleasure ground work, now that the last of the autumn leaves are cleared away. Where large breaks of old Laurel are occupy- ing prominent positions they may be partially cleared away as time permits, and the ground thus cleared planted with flowering shrubs in variety, intervening spaces being devoted to banks of green furnished by seedling Rhododendron ponticum (where these are at home), the latter being kept sufficiently low to allow the deciduous plants to show well above them when they are in flower. It is, of course, advisable in some cases to have large banks of Laurel, but they are objectionable if used too freely, and the common Rhododendron is preferable, as, in addition to more compact growth, it will furnish a nice annual display of flower if the pruning is care- fully done and there is none of the hedge clipping business. It is, unfortunately, not easy to get the average garden labourer to understand this, and I have had more than once a season's flower destroyed where directions had been given to take away only all the long growths, all the points having been nipped off as by shears, and my expostulations greeted by the information that the operator thought the plants ought to be uniform. In our case the Laurels in course of removal are contem- porary with a number of old Silver Firs and Pin- aster Pines, and the said removal is a work of time'; but the result is a rather pleasing combination, as opportunity has been taken to remove, at the same time, the worst of the Firs and Pines that are dead or dying, and to work in among the big breaks of seedling Rhododendrons a few of the best of the Conifers that are thoroughly at home in our West Surrey soil. These latter are nobilis, grandis, Douglasi, glauca, concolor, violacea, and braoby- phylla among the varieties of Abies, and Laricio, anstriaca, Cembra, Pinea, Lambertiana, and excelsa among the Pines. These are all adapted for plant- ing where a bold effect is needed, as they are of free habit ami striking appearance, and are much better for the purpose than Conifers of a stiff and formal growth. Perhaps I ought to have included Cryptomeria japonica, which grows quickly and GYMNOGRAMMAS. Among Ferns the most remarkable are those species and varieties usually known as Gold and Silver Ferns, the former having the fronds more or less covered with a yellow, and the latter with a silvery white powdery substance. In most cases this powder, or farina as it is generally called, is con- fined to the under surface of the fronds. There are a few instances, however, where the upper sur- face is also covered. These beautiful Ferns are easily cultivated, the only drawback being that they are rather tender and require a stove temperature. Most of the sorts may be grown into large speci- mens, but with age the plants get dense and form a number of crowns. Young plants are far more elegant, and as they may be obtained with little trouble there should be no difficulty in keeping up a young stock. The present is a good time for sow- ing the spores. The Gymnogrammas germinate more quickly than most Ferns. The spores should be sown thinly, and even then the seedlings will come up so thickly, that if they are not pricked off in an early stage, they will be lost through being too much crowded. In the first instance the seed- lings may be taken out and pricked off in little patches, and later on they should be divided singly. During the operation of pricking off, care should be taken that the seedlings are not exposed long enough for the tiny little fronds to get withered, for when this occurs damping is more troublesome, the Gymnogrammas being particularly tender when young. Gymnogrammas like rather a light peaty compost and good drainage, a raised position where the moisture does not settle on the fronds, and the plants must be watered carefully to avoid wetting the fronds. After the pots are well filled with roots a little manure water will be beneficial. In making a selection of the most useful sorts it must be remembered that the Gymnogrammas vary so considerably, that it is only by careful selection of the different forms that their true characters can be maintained. The following are among the best and more distinct : — G. Laucheana.— Fronds nearly triangular in outline, bright green on the upper surface, and densely covered with golden-yellow powder be- neath . G. Alstoni. — This is similar to the above, differ- ing only in having the ultimate pinnules curled in- wards, thus showing off the golden under-surface to advantage. G. Massoni is another slightly different form it is more erect in habit and has broader pinnules. G. CHRYSOPHTLLA.— This is One of the best known Gold Ferns. Considerable variation will be found in plants under this name. In its best form it is very pretty, the fronds being long and rather narrow, and drooping over a little towards the apex. G. Paesonsi, the Crested Gold Fern, is a beautiful variety ; the fronds grow erect and terminate in a dense crest of multifid growths. G. SCHIZOPHTLLA GLOEiosA is a Very elegant form, with long, drooping, finely-cut fronds, slightly covered with silvery-grey powder beneath and a bright green surface. This variety produces young plants at the apex of the fronds, by which means it may be propagated. G. Pbarcei robusta has rather large, erect- growing fronds, finely cut, and lightly sprinkled with pale sulphur powder. G. PERUVIANA AEGYEOPHyLLA is the most dis- tinct of the Silver Ferns. It forms a very pretty plant, and both surfaces are covered with silvery- white powder. G. 8ULPHUREA.— A small-growing form, the fronds erect, and covered with pale yellow powder. G. Wbttbnhalliana is a very prettily crested variety of the above. G. TAETAEEA. — A f ree-gTowing form, with rather long fronds, deep shiny green on the upper surface and very white beneath. There are many other varieties, but the above include the most distinct, and among seedlings very distinct forms may be selected ; in fact, these Gymnogrammas vary more than any other genus that I am acquainted with. F. H. Polypodium vulgare var.trichomanoideB. — I have grown this Fern, figured in The Garden, Jan. 18 (p. 53), since the year I first saw it exhibited before one of the floral meetings of the Royal Horti- cultural Society, where it obtained a first class certificate. It flourished fairly well in pots or pans, but I found after a time it made the best growth and finest fronds out of doors, and planted in the rock garden where it is shaded a good deal from hot sunshine it grows well. I find that fronds identical with those of the common Polypody are frequently produced, some of them partly one thing and partly the other. These are all removed, and the finely divided fronds only encouraged to develop. I saw this plant growing with great vigour in the garden of Mr. Phineas Riall, Old Conna Hill, County Wick- low. It was running over the kitchen garden borders, and at a distance I thought it must be Parsley. The garden referred to is a highly favoured one as regards position and climate, for such things as the Bottle-brush shrub (Metrosideros floribunda), the Peruvian Desfontainea spinosa, and other fine things grow into great bushes on the lawn. Cordyline australis was 15 feet high and Eugenia apiculata formed a bush 12 feet high and as much through. Even Mandevilla suaveolens had grown freely and flowered on the walls.— J. Douglas. Garden Flora. PLATE 737. A HARDY CEINUM. (CRINUM POWELLI.*) The man who crossed Crinum capense and C. Mooreanum, and thus produced the hybrid above named, added quite a new charm to the hardy flower garden, for Crinum Powelli is to all intents and purposes a hardy plant. It is undoubtedly a great gain to see such a lovely flower, of tropical aspect and luxuri- ance, blooming freely out in the open air. All the species of the great genus Crinum are very beautiful as seen at their best, and in warmer countries than ours they are often seen beside water, growmg and blossoming in the utmost luxuriance. In English gardens C'rinums are not unfrequently grown as pot jilants in hothouses, but so restricted they give one but a poor idea of their natural capabilities ; hence it is encouraging to know that in the soutli of England and in Ireland we can grow the subject of our plate to great perfection in the open air. The history of this splendid plant is as follows : ]\Ir. C. B. Powell, of the Old Hall, Southborough, Tunbridge Wells, is the raiser. About fifteen or more years ago he crossed the rosy and white forms of Crinum capense (Amaryllis longifolia) with pollen of C. Mooreanum, and the result was about a * Drawn for The Garden by H. G. Moon, at Gravetye Manor, Sussex, from plants several years in the open air, September 17, 1889. Lithographed and printed by Guillaume Severeyns. til AN ^"^ '^90 M>-^ wy \ CRINUM POVvELLI Jan. 25, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 81 huTidred seertlings of the plant novr known a^ C. Powelli, but varying in colour from deep rose-crimson in the bud to pure white. Prac- tically speaking, there are three distinct gar- den forms of this hybrid, viz., a dark rosy flower, a light rose or flesh-coloured variety, and the pure white form which is greenish in the bud. Each scape is from 2 feet to 4 feet in height, and bears from seven to fifteen flowers, each bud opening in succession, so that a single spike continues in flower for several weeks. Very luxuriant clumps throw up from five to twenty spikes each season, and are very attractive. A row of this plant in its raiser's garden at Southborough bore thirty or forty spikes, and my friend Mr. J. O'Brien told me of the delight he experienced when the late firm of E. G. Henderson and Son received the plant for distribution, the great long-necked bulbs, coming, as he informed me, in enormous sugar barrels, having been so well cultivated that nothing less woiild accommodate them. In vol. iv. of the " Dictionary of Gardening," p. 521, the bulbs are stated to be " globose with a short neck.'' In future editions this should be amended, as but few species of Crinum possess longer - necked bulbs than Crinum Powelli. My friend, Mr. Fred. Moore, of Glasnevin, who cidtivates hardy Crinums in a way few people in England have any idea of, lately sent me a bulb of C. PoweUi album quite .3 feet long, the bul- bous portion being only 6 inches in length. In order to plant such a bulb a little preparation is necessary. Once well planted, C. Powelli is all right for ten years at least, so that it is worth while making a good start. A shel- tered spot is necessary, as the 6 feet long leaves get twisted about, and often broken or torn in exposed places. A deep rich border between the buttresses of a sunny wall suits it perfectly, or a warm corner near a heated greenhouse or plant stove. One should dig a very large hole and then fill it full of good rich compost made up of turfy loam, coarse gravel or pit sand, peat fibre and leaf mould. Crude manure should not be used, but a bushel of bones will prove an enduring and nutritious addition to the soil. Bury the bulb up to the leaves and surround it with clean sand. If the locality is low or wet, the border wherein it is planted should be well drained with a foot or 18 inches of lime rubbish, stones, or brick rubble. So treated, a most luxuriant growth is pretty certain to follow, and then copious waterings during hot, dry weather are essential and add much to the leafage and vigour of the flowers. Crinum PoweUi ought to have a special cor- ner devoted to it in every garden wherein noble hardy flowers are appreciated as they deserve. Even in cold localities a very slight protection of ashes or dry peat earth, and tree branches, such as those of Spruce Firs or Evergreen Oak, will carry it through the win- ter. It is rather remarkable that of all the numerous hybrids reared by the late Dean Herbert (see " Amaryllidace8° on mild nights, 75° at mid-day, and 80° after closing with sun and moisture. Successions must be kept quiet in a temperature ranging from 60" at night and 70° by day until the sun gains more power and incessant firing can be moderated. When danger of a long spell of wintry weather has passed away the usual arrangements for the final shift must be proceeded with. Clean and dry crocks and pots, comiiost, also dry and warm, must be ready for use, but of two evils it is better to be a little late than early, as the balls must be properly moistened and the roots moving before potting is attempted. Autumn sucicrs — Preparations for potting on, shaking out, and a general overhaul may now be made, as it is a well-known fact that compost is greatly improved by lying for some weeks in a warm potting shed. The pits, notwithstanding, need not exceed 50° to 56° by night and a few degrees higher by day, with a little air when the sun is shining. If bottom-heat is obtained from hot- water pipes and the latter are very near the pots, these must be looked to occasionally, and if found on the dry side the plunging material may be watered pretty freely ; the balls of those plants immediately over the pipes, too, may be the better for being fairly moistened, first, to secure root action ; and second, to prevent them from bolting immediately after they are potted and placed under growing conditions. The Obchabd House. By this time Peaches and Nectarines in the forc- ing department will have been fumigated for the last time, at least for the present, and the flowers will be expanding. When this stage is reached raise the temperature to 50° to 55° by night, 60° to 65° by day, always with front air, and just enough fire-heat to prevent sudden depressions. Keep the roots of the trees well supplied with warm water and damp all available spaces with the syringe once on dull days, twice when fine, as no greater mistake can be made than keeping the house dry and arid when the fruit is setting. Those who prefer setting with the syringe will dew the trees over at noon on fine days, but, having fer- menting material in the pit, the delicate organs will stand fresh, and pollen will best answer its purpose if plied with a camel's-hair brush when the temperature reaches the maximum. The f/eneral orchard house. — Having recently written upon the housing of pot trees and space being limited, but little need be added for the present. The work, nevertheless, must be pushed forward, and a good summer being quite equal to the ripening of the latest varieties, the most im- portant points will be careful watering and abun- dant ventilation. If Strawberries are grown upon the shelves, they must not be introduced just yet. especially if they are snugly plunged in the open air or cold pits where the roots will not feel the want of water, as so often ruinously happens when perched on dry shelves for some weeks before they are started into growth. Peach Houses. Early trees approaching the flowering stage must be moderately fumigated once or perhaps twice during the week preceding the opening of the first petal, for if this preventive is not adopted, green fly may gain the upper hand and ruin the crop. When the flowers commence opening, raise the temperature to 60° or 65° by increasing the hot-water circulation through the day, but reduce in the afternoon, as Peaches will set well in a mean of 50° or a few degrees lower through the night. Also increase ventilation, especially along the front, as wide openings at the top let out the warm air, when the trees become subject to cutting draughts. The direct syringing of the most forward trees, as a matter of course, will be discontinued, but the walls and paths must be regularly moistened with tepid water when days are bright and the weather mild. By adopting this plan and bringing the trees on slowly, the flowers, aided by fresh air, will open bold and strong, pollen will be abundant, and the roots being right, there will be plenty of fruit. Fertilisation here, as in the early orchard house, as a matter of course, will receive attention when the pollen is ripe and quite fit for its ofiice, but, seeing how easily and, I believe, frequently the tender organs are injured by incessant interfer- ence, the brush, well charged from free varieties like Royal George Peach or Elruge Nectarine must be plied with a very light hand when the tempera- ture reaihes the maximum on bright days. When the petals begin to drop, the trees may be re- freshed by a light dewing over with the syringe and the turning of the fermenting material may be resumed. Succession lumses started early in the month must be regularly syringed with tepid water, care being taken that the fiower-buds become dry before night. If fermenting material is well managed, firing will be extremely light, especially if the weather is mild, as it has been of late, and 50° can be maintained without its aid. Let all forcing be carried on through the day, that is, by opening the valves from 9 am. until i p.m , and admitting plenty of front air, and when the buds have got past the dropping stage, maintain an average of 45° through the night. W. C. KITCHEN GARDEN. Raising Caulifloweb plants.— There is now much less need to keep Cauliflower plants through the winter than formerly, owing to the introduction of superior and very late Broccoli, and the small, but very early Snowball or Early Forcing Cauli- flower. Plants of the latter, obtained by sowing seed at the present time, may without much difli- culty be made to form excellent hearts late in May or early in June, this being about the time when Broccoli usually fail. A stock of either Dwarf Erfurt Mammoth, Early London, and Magnum Bonum being raised with the Snowball, a good suc- cession would be afforded. Sow the seed thinly in pans, placing these in gentle heat till the seedlings are well up, but they must not be in the way of a syringe or be carelessly watered, or they will break down and damp off wholesale. Before they are much drawn transfer to a greenhouse shelf, and when they have formed a rough leaf pot off in pairs in 4-inch pots and return to the shelf. Attend well to the watering, prepare them for and plant out in handlights, or in sheltered positions where they can be protected with mats before they become root-bound. Not unfrequently Cauliflowers are pricked out from the seed-pan into boxes, but they do not transplant well out of these with a trowel, and any serious check either from starvation in small pots or a loss of many roots at planting time is apt to cause premature bolting. Cauliflowehs under class.— The mildness of the weather is far from being good for Cauliflowers, the plants under glass, notably those planted rather Jan. 25, 1890.] THE GARDEN 83 thickly in handlights, being disposed to grow tall and spindly. The only way to check this— and it is advisable to do so, as we may have much severe weather later on— is to keep the lights off the plants as much as possible, leaving them partly open in the night-time also, unless severe frosts are imminent. In some instances the roots of the plants had to be lightly cut round, this effectually checking their too rapid growth. The surface soil about the plants may well be stirred, plenty of fine ashes or some soot and lime being also distributed about them the better to keep slugs away. If by any chance the late Broccoli should be destroyed by frosts— and it is none too hardy this season— it may become neces- sary to see what can be done in the way of forcing or gently forwarding Cauliflowers under glass, or even in rough unglazed pits. With the aid of the latter and before the forcing varieties were intro- duced we have cut very good Cauliflowers, or suitable for the exhibition table early in May, and have no doubt of being able to cut the Early Forcing in April. What is needed is a shallow hot- bed of stable manure or leaves and manure, on this being spread a thin layer of partially decayed manure prior to covering the bed with about !l inches of good loamy soil. Strong plants should be put out from pots into this bed about 15 inches apart each way and firmly fixed into the soil, and also given tepid water if the latter is at all dry. For a time the lights should be kept on rather closely, more air being given as the plants advance in growth. Later on the lights may be dispensed with, and pi ot action afforded during the night in cold weather in the shape of a covering of mats or other protective material. From the first the plants must not suffer for want of water, and liquid manure should be freely given when once they give signs of forming hearts. If no lights are available for temporarily covering the Cauliflowers, other heavier coverings being put on in the night time, the start is naturally rather slow, but the plants come on rapidly after they are once established. A KRAME OF Peas — Several small yet good dishes of early Peas can be had with the aid of a good sized frame or rough pit, and that, too, with- out very much trouble. Only the very dwarf varie- ties are adapted to the purpose, and of these the best are Chelsea Gem and William Hurst. Should the frame or pit be in use at the present time, it is advisable to raise a sufficient number of plants ready for transplanting as soon as the site for them can be got ready. We sow about one pint of seed in shallow boxes filled with light soil and place these in an early Peach house till the seed- lings are about 3 inches high, when they are slightly hardened off prior to being planted in the frames in which they are grown. A slight hot-bed is prepared and soiled over much as ad- vised in the case of forcing Cauliflowers, and when the soil is well warmed through, rather deep trenches are opened with the spade about 15 inches apart. The Peas are carefully shaken out from the soil, the aim being to preserve as many roots as possible, the latter being dropped into the trenches to their full depth and lightly fixed. It is advisable to plant rather thickly, as a quick crop is most needed. The plants ought to be lightly staked, and this admits of a good row of Paris Market Cabbage Lettuce being grown between the Peas, these alone more than compensating for the trouble taken. They ought to be kept rather close for a time and be covered up every night. Later on they will need no further protection, but should be kept well sup' plied with water. Forcing Potatoes. — Where there are plenty of pits and frames at command, the earliest Potatoes ought already to be well advanced in growth, but in the majority of cases conveniences for forcing are rather limited, and it is unwise, therefore, to start very early, as it will be impossible to main- tain the supply of young Potatoes. Whether pits or frames are used, it is a good plan to form a gentle hotbed of leaves and manure, some of the shortest being on the top, this bringing the !i inches or more of light loamy soil placed on it well up to the glass. The sets ought already to be well ad- vanced in growth, each having one, or at the most two stout sprouts attached. If there is no danger of the bed over-heating, the planting may well be done directly the soil is warmed through. Open drills with the hand from 12 inches to 15 inches apart and about 5 inches deep, the former dis- tances being regulated somewhat according to the width of the lights. Arrange the sets not less than 0 inches apart, and carefully mould over with the hand. The frames or pits should be matted over every night, and given a little air in mild weather directly the shoots appear through the soil. Later on air must be given freely, or otherwise the haulm will become spindly and the crops be correspond- ingly poor. Potatoes in frames and pits do not re- quire very much water, but the soil ought not to be allowed to get very dry at any time. Any ot the short-topped extra early varieties are suitable for forcing. Lettuce. — If the stock of autumn-raised plants is small, then seed ought to be sown at once, otherwise it may be delayed another month. Any of the Cabbage and Cos varieties may be sown now thinly in pans or boxes of fine soil, but it is not ad- visable to set these in a very brisk heat, or other- wise the seedlings will be puny, and will in addi- tion very probably damp off badly. In any case the pans or boxes containing the plants ought soon to be placed on a shelf or in a frame near to the glass, this keeping them sturdy and preparing them for pricking off. Being first pricked out into boxes or a bed of soil in a frame, the plants will soon be fit for sheltered borders and the open ground, all transplanting readily with a trowel. Lettuce for cutting. — If there is any likeli- hood of salading .being scarce between the time Endive has failed and the earliest Lettuces have hearted in, it is advisable to sow Lettuce seed rather thickly, though by no means so thickly as Mustard and Cress, in shallow boxes filled with fairly rich soil. Place them in gentle heat till the plants are well up, then transfer to a moderately warm greenhouse shelf. Being well attended to, the plants will make good progress, and may be cut cleanly over whenever required for use. Being grown rather thickly, the leaves will be partially blanched and also crisp and sweet, only needing the addition of a bunch of Chicory and the usual other ingredients to make a good salad. The Puis White Cos is the best variety for the purpose. W. I. Orchids. PHAL^ENOPSIS CASTA. Thi.s plant is a supposed natural hybrid be- tween the beautiful P. Schilleriana and P. Aphrodite, It still appears to be rare, and a tiower now before me is said to have been pro- duced by an imported plant. The leaves are deep green above and of a rich vinous-red colour beneath. This is the aspect of the leaf when mature, but in the young state it is more or less spotted and streaked with silvery-grey, as in P. Schilleriana. This, however, passes away with age and leaves the plant a veritable P. Aphrodite. The spike of bloom makes its appearance in mid-winter, and my informant tells me that it is now carrying nine flowers of exquisite beauty. The specimen before me measures S inches across and is of fine shape, and an ordinary observer would pronounce it to be that of P. Aphrodite, but a careful inspec- tion will lead to the discovery that it is quite distinct ; the sepals and petals are of the purest white, saving the lower ones, which are more or less spotted at the base ; lip large for a Phalcenopsis, the side lobes rounded and erect, with .small oblong bars of crimson at the base, between which is a yellow callus spotted with crimson, the front edge being marked with yellow. The anterior lobe is white, with a line of crimson in the centre, and the hinder part; is also deep red, whilst the ape.x is furnished with a pair of reflexed, slender tendrils, which are white, the whole forming a wax-like flower of great beauty. All that can be said for it is that it is one of the many forms which research has given US, whether hybrids or species. This kind was, I believe, imported from the Philippine Islands, but I certainly do not recollect by whom it was introduced. These plants have ever since their discovery been the pride of the orchidist, and they have usually been found ditficult to grow. Tlii.-<, I imagine, arose more from starving 1b ^m than anything else. There cannot be any U.ubt but that they enjoy heat, and Mr. Searing, who until recently had charge of the collection at Heaton House, Cheshunt, had the fine.st lot of these plants which has ever been seen in culti- vation. I hope his plants, now they are distri- buted, will continue to maintain their vigour, but such cannot be expected in all cases. His plan of cultivating them was in pots, but baskets would suit them equally well, and he used but the merest scrap of Sphagnum about them. The plants were subjected to a fair amount of air, a temperature of about 70° or 80° during the growing season, and they were supplied with nutriment just in the form in which they could use it. There was little or no soil about their roots to retain moisture and become sour, but the ground was composed of shingle, which was kept thoroughly moist with salt and water and with liquid cow manure, so that a gentle mois- ture was constantly rising in an imperceptible manner, and from which the plants derived their sustenance. Many growers by adopting the above plan are succeeding with these plants where they previously have failed, and I hope to see them abound again. Amongst the various places in which I find Phaliinopsids doing well I may note Cheam Park, the residence of Mr. .Jacomb. Phalsenopsids are one of the greatest features to be seen in an Orchid house, and the grandest lot of them I have ever seen used to be in the houses of Mr. Robert Warner, of Bloomfield, near Chelmsford. The Heaton House collection was doubtless very fine, but I never saw the flowers in great profusion, as Mr. Partington used to cut the spikes in large numbers and send them into the house, this no doubt also assisting the plants. That Phalse- nopsids enjoy heat and light is an established fact, but 1 am under the impression that the great heat which is frequently given is more in- jurious than beneficial. I have seen isolated examples of large plants thriving and flowering well in the temperature of the intermediate house, and if this is maintained with a steady supply of fresh air success will follow. W. H. GOWER. OdontoglosBums (1. -B)- — These are a series of richly-coloured and bold flowers, the first being a form of Pescatorei, in which the sepals and petals are broad, and the whole flower well filled out and heavily spotted on all the segments with rich purple. It is not so heavily spotted as the variety Veitchi. We should like to see this when it flowers again. Another is a magnificent form of 0. Oer- stedi majus ; flowers very large, pure white saving the yellow crest, spotted with orange at the base. It is a beautiful flower, and an excellent form of 0. nebulosum of the pardinum type, in which the greater part of the sepals and petals is thickly covered with reddish brown, and the apical portions pure white. These are three very tine varieties, which certainly deserve care and attention to pre- serve them. Dendrobium Hilli.— The portion of the spike receive il from J. McDougall is not D. speciosum, but D, Hilli, which was flowered by me for the first time in England in the spring of IstU. Although somewhat similar to, it is very distinct from fpe- ciosum, and in nothing so much as its growth, 84 THE GAUDEN. [Jan. 25, 1890. which is long, and might be called slender, beside that plant. The racemes are very distinct, being much longer, with the flowers upon longer foot- stalks, and thus they appear to be more lax ; whilst the sepals and petals are much longer and narrower than in speciosum, although it undoubtedly does belong to the same group. It is, moreover, a much freer blooming plant than the older and better- known species, which would indicate that the plant comes from a warmer locality. We do not say that D. speciosum is not free-flowering if kept quite dry and stood in the open air during the summer after growth is completed, but Hilli flowers freely when kept in the house and given a good resting after having made its growth. We are very apt to come to a wrong conclusion as to the requirements of a plant by saying it is Australian, quite unmindful of the fact that some North Australian plants are thoroughly tropical. Your plant, with twenty-two spikes upon it, must be a strikingly beautiful ex- ample. Saccolabium bellinum. — This charming Burmese Orchid is blooming well in a basket suspended close to the glass in the collection of Mr. Tantz at Shepherd's Bush. The more we see of this little gem the more its beauty becomes appa- rent, as the flowers are of exquisite beauty and richly coloured. They vary little in colour, which is pale yellow, barred and spotted with the deepest brown, in the sepals and petals, the lip cup-shaped, pure white, coated with a cushion of short hairs and enriched by a yellow blotch in the centre, around which are a few deep purple spots. The peduncle is very short, and the plant itself of dwarf habit, so that a shallow basket is requisite, this to be well drained, as plenty of water is required during the season of growth, and even when at rest the plant must not be kept quite dry. When this species becomes commoner we shall doubtless find it in all collections of any value. A coloured plate was given of it in The Garden for May 11, 188S. Varieties of Lycaste Skinneri.— The de- lightful variety of colours in a good series of forms of L. Skinneri is one of the great charms of this fine Orchid. There are several varieties of it in full beauty in Mr. Tautz's collection at Studley House, and none is prettier than L. S. Lucyana, which is delicately coloured with pink, especially towards the margin of the petals and on the lip, the sepals showing a faint flash of the same colour. The labellum is the seat of colour. Sometimes it is rich crimson, as in the type ; in other varieties this bold colour gives way to the softest pink shade, margined with white, and then, again, it is finely spotted. A variety called Imperator is richly col- oured, one of the deepest of all, quite a contrast to delicatissima, which, as its name suggests, is shaded with soft tints. Mr. Tautz has also several specimens of the variety alba, a noble Orchid of great purity and freedom. There can be nothing more interesting at this season in the Orchid house than a collection of Lycaste Skinneri in its various forms, and we were pleased to find such a rich series at Studley House. Lselia peduncularis alba. — This is a very fine variety of a somewhat ignored plant, and is now flowering in the gardens of Mr. Studd, the Royal Crescent, Bath. The petals are very broad, mea- suring upwards of 2^ inches across, and with the dorsal sepal are pure white, the lateral sepals also white with a central streak of purple, which extends from the base for half their length ; lip three-lobed, the large oblong-ovate middle lobe white with a tinge of sulphur-yellow at the base, side lobes white on the exterior, the interior heavily marked with a blotch of deep maroon-purple. This, the Flor de Jesus of the natives in its wild state, is said to be found in Southern Mexico and Guatemala, and although discovered about fifty years ago, it is still and always has been a rare plant. Vanda lamellata Boxalli.— This pretty plant is now flowering. It is named after Boxall, one of the most successful of modern collectors, and is one of the best of the small-growing Vandas, although it cannot compete with V. Kimballiana. The leaves are long and narrow, distichously arranged, and unequally bi-lobed at the ends. The flower- spikes are freely produced, erect, bearing at times upwards of twenty blooms ; the upper sepal and the petals reflexed, creamy yellow, the lower sepals being the largest and parti- coloured, the outer portion being of the same colour as the petals, the inner portion reddish brown ; lip yellowish streaked with reddish brown and shaded with purple, and ornamented with streaks of yellow. It is valuable on account of its being a winter bloomer, and is a native of the Philippine Islands. — G. Odontoglossum Yotmgi. — This appears to me quite a distinct species. A flower was sent me by Mr. Young, Linnet Lane, Liverpool ; the plant I have not seen, but the flower somewhat resembles that of 0. Oerstedi, and it is of about the same size, measuring l{t inches across ; sepals oblong- acute, the yellow ground being heavily spotted with transverse bars of chocolate ; petals ovate, much broader than the sepals, but like them heavily spotted with chocolate, all incurved ; lip white tinged with yellow, having a pair of choco- late spots in the centre ; crest fleshy, yellow, streaked with short lines of reddish brown ; column short and stout. It is a very beautiful little species. I am not aware of its habitat. — W. H. G. Ccelogyne lactea. — Flowers of this Ccclogyne come to me, and I am asked if the plant is new. I can scarcely say. That I have seen it before I have a note to prove, and in this I mention it belongs to the flaccida group ; the sepals and petals are creamy-white and the lip is stained with yellow in front, the side lobes streaked with radiat- ing lines of crimson. It is a very pretty thing, but I cannot say much about it at present ; I should require to see the plant, and to observe its style of flowering. — W. H. G. Saccolabium giganteum album. — This rare and beautiful variety of S. giganteum is in bloom with Mr. Tautz, Studley House, Shepherd's Bush. It is entirely distinct from the type, which has deliciously sweet flowers brightly spotted with amethyst on the sepals and petals and coloured with a mauve-purple shade on the lip. The variety album has a more massive raceme of larger flowers, which are pure ivory white, except for the green column, and have the same strong scent as in the type. 'The plant is in a basket suspended near the light. lections, is in bloom with Mr. Tautz. It is like the other Gongoras as regards liabit ; the plant in the Studley House collection beiug in a basket hung up near the glass, and bearing one of its pendent spikes of light-coloured flowers. The flowers are straw- coloured, freckled with brownish-purple, the lip clear yellow. It comes from Mexico. Ansellia afrieana. — This species is still in full beauty at The Woodlands, and also in several other collections, thus showing what a valuable plant it is for decoration at this season. It is a most remarkable plant, but is no better grown now than it was thirty years ago. SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS. Stove and Greenhouse. Laelia elegans Blenheim.ensi8. — This is a very elegant dark form of this species, whicli fir.st flowered with Mr. Whillans, gardener to his Grace the Duke of Marlborough. Dendrobium Ainsw^orthi. — A distinct form of this plant conies from Mr. Osborne, gardener to Mr. Howard, The Grove, Toddington. It is very beauti- ful, hut less so than the forms received in the autumn. No doubt amongst a lot of seedlings there will he various forms. Lselia monophylla. — This is a curious small- flowered species, with just the colour of Sophronitis grandiflora. It is an outlying species, being the only example which has yet been found off the continent of America. It is found on St. Andrew's Mountain, in Jamaica, and first flowered in this country in 1SS2. It was discovered some fifty years ago by the late Dr. Bancroft, Odontoglossum crispum. — "J. B., Dumbar- ton," sends a flower of what he bought as O. c, Lehmaui, but which, in fact, is the old crispum ; indeed about the same form that was figured by Mr. Bateman in his work on the Odontoglossums for 0. Alesandrge, the sepals and petals being narrow and white, without spot of any kind, and the lip narrow, with a faint trace of a spot. Peseatorea cerina. — This is a fine hold-flowered plant of a genus whicli was at one time named Hunt- leya, and which has become scarce. There are many fine kinds, however, well deserving attention. The flowers last a long time in full beauty. This species is one of the discoveries of Warscewicz, who found it growing upon trees on the volcanic mountain of Chiriqui at about 8000 feet elevation. Gongora truncata.— This distinct and handsome species of Gongora, a genus poorly represented in col- CULTIVATION OF DRAC^NAS. Deacon A.s are not particular as to the soil in which they are grown provided it is not sour and destitute of fibre. Turfy loam and good peat are the best, two-thirds of the former to one of the latter. If the peat is not good, then it is better to choose well-decomposed leaf soil. For young plants at their first potting I should prefer to use leaf soil liberally, as it is well cal- culated to encourage quick root-action. For plants that are being grown on into larger speci- mens, a few crushed bones would be an advan- tage ; in fact, a few may at any time be placed over the drainage with considerable benefit. Dracpenas have at all times a disposition to send their roots downwards amongst the drainage, the bones thus placed affording them consider- able help. Sand should be added, of course, to assist in keeping the soil open and in a healthy state. The chief addition to the soil for Dracaenas, however, is pure soot. About as much may be safely used as can be traced in the soil when it is well mixed together. I found this out quite by accident a few years ago through taking some loam for potting from a heap that had been prepared for a Vine border, but not all used at the time. I have always included soot ever since, and believe it to be one of, if not the very best manurial agents to employ for the successful cultivation of Dracaenas. Those who have not so far used any are strongly advised to give it a trial, but not to go beyond the quantity just advised, at least until experience has been gained in its use. The extra vigour imparted to our Dracaenas the first time any soot was used was somewhat remarkable, and this was well maintained all through the season, extra fine plants fit almost for any purpose having been grown in C-inch pots, the foliage assuming that brilliant colour peculiar to many kinds. With the increased root-action thus set up more water was of course needed, and this was supplied without stint. I might add that in potting it is best to press the soil down as firmly as possible. Reilucing the old ball at such times should be done with caution, if done at all, for at times when the plant is not in active growth the roots may appear to be dead, but this is not often the case. On close examination it wUl be found that it is only the outer covering of the roots that is changed, having assumed a more woody character, from out of which fresh rootlets will again issue when more active growth is set up. Where, therefore, there is diminution in the ball of the plant, it will, as a matter of necessity, follow that there will be a corresponding action in the foliage, a quantity of which will probably turn yellow and drop ofl", causing the plant to become leggy before its time. Varietie.s. There is now an abundant choice in this re- spect to suit various kinds of decoration. Those with narrow and medium-sized foliage are the best for using in a small state, with a few Jan. 25, 1890.] THE GAEDEN. 85 exceptions, in wliich the colour is early deve- loped. The broad and long-leaved kinds make noble objects for single specimens in vases when they are well clothed with foliage, especially for such as are not high, so that the beauty of the plant can be better seen. The best of the nar- row-leaved varieties are D. superba, D. elegan- tissima, D. GuUfoylei, D. gracilis, D. roseo-picta. Amongst those of medium growth, the best are D. terminalis (not yet beaten), D. terminalis alba, D. Cooperi, D. Elizabethfe, D. hybrida, D. Lindeni, D. rubra, and D. ignea. Those of more massive growth, when of good size, are D. amabilis, D. Baptisti, D. striata (an old, but tine kind), D. Thompsoni (very distinct and stock for as many more cuttings as it will yield. This is a better plan than the usual method of propagation from eyes. D. gracilis, included in the foregoing list, should be propagated in a similar manner, and if taken oft" when small will produce plants with narrower foliage and a more elegant habit of growth, which is retained for a longer period than if the plants are kept confined at the roots. J. H. MARANTAS OR CALATHEAS. These inmates of our warm houses are, when well grown (and their culture is very easy), most attractive on account of the rich and varied markings of the foliage. Of late years A tine specimen of Maranta zrljriiia auJ other liue-leaved plunts. effective), D. Leopold! (a fine kind) ; while D. Youngi, now omitted from some catalogues, yet quite distinct in its rich bronzy appearance, is also well suited for a cool stove. D. Goldieana is quite unique, but hardly needs any recom- mendation, being now so well known. It is useful in any size, and when once well esta- blished the smallest of its leaves partake of its distinctive markings. The top strikes readily, after which the old stool should be allowed to break afresh and the young shoot removed when large enough for a 24-inoh pot, reserving the old great additions have been made to this class of plants ; therefore the cultivator has no lack of kinds from which to make a selection according to his taste and accommodation. Some sorts, being dwarf and compact in habit, can be grown well in a very limited space — such, for instance, as M. fasciata, Makoyana, Massangeana, albo- lineata, rosea picta, and tubispatba. Where more space is at the grower's disposal, other kinds may be chosen, such as M. Veitchi, Warse- wiczi, and the old, but still very beautiful M. zebrina (here figured), all of which are highly or- namental and effective in a collection of fine- foliaged plants. The moat suitable soil for Marantas, and in which I have found them to succeed best, should consist of good fibrous peat and turfy loam, in about equal proportions, with a good addition of silver sand, and, if ob- tainable, a little good leaf-soil. For the finer or smaller-growing kinds, with more delicate roots, I would recommend the addition of some small pieces of charcoal and broken crocks. In mixing, and also in using the soil, avoid all the finer particles, employing only the filirous por- tions. A close, inert soil is very prejudicial to the growth of this class of plants, for if it be- comes sour and sodden, a loss of roots will take place, and if allowed to occur during the winter months would probably kiU all the more tender kinds. Marantas, when grown in a good open soil, such as that just described, will need an abundant supply of water — in fact, when in a healthy state at the roots they ought not to be allowed to become dry at any time, except in the case of the deciduous kinds, such as M. tubispatha and a few others, which, when at rest, should be kept somewhat dry at the root, but not placed in too dry an atmosphere. All the varieties when growing vigorously, and be- coming pot-bound, would be benefited by an occasional supply of weak liquid manure. They all succeed best, and produce their foliage in the greatest perfection when grown in shade during the summer months, being in that respect unHke the Crotons, which recjuire full sunlight to perfect their colours. The partial shade produced by Palms and other plants, with the addition of artificial shading on the roof in very bright summer weather, suits them admirably. I have grown and exhibited M. fasciata over 4 feet across. This plant for want of space was grown under the shade of a large Cyathea, the glass over which was also shaded by means of a blind. The temperature most suitable to these plants is one of from 00° to 70° in winter, and from 75° to 85° in the summer, with plenty of mois- ture in the air, and they should be syringed daily in summer, a fair amount of air being admitted on all favourable occasions at that season. With regard to insects, Marantas are most liable to the attacks of white scale, thrips, and red spider. Any of these, Lf allowed free action for a while, wUl soon disfigure the foliage. The best remedy I have found is sponging the leaves with soft soap and water, using a soft sponge for the purpose, as the leaves, if not carefully handled, are easily marked. The stronger kinds of insecticides are not to be com- mended for the tender foliage of most of the varieties. As regards propagation, the plants are easily increased by division of the crowns early in spring. H. Cyrtanth.u8 lutescens and other species. — ■' H. P." (p. 28) writes intelligently of these charm- ing cool-house bulbous plants, and to those he men- tions I should like to add a few others which thrive admirably with me in a cold house and also in a Messenger's plant protector with no other protec- tion in winter than a covering of garden mats. Besides those " H. P." mentions I have C. angusti- folius, bright red ; C. Macowani, scarlet ; C. spira- lis, red ; C. uniflorus and C. heliotus, two white species of the Gastronema section with Vallota- hSe flower?, and several others which have not yet bloomed. C. sanguineus I have, but not in the cold frame. I have a number of bulbous plants which I am trying in an unheated frame, and which so far I find succeed admirably. In .'priBg I will enumerate those which grew well, and state which failed, if anv. — Jas. O'Brien, Uarro)v-on-tlie-HiU. Gesneria cinnabarina— This may be con- sidered one of the finest winter-flowering kinds, 86 THE GAEDEN [Jan. 25, 1890. and I was agreeably surprised to come across a fair specimen a short time since in great beauty. Tiiis is a plant whicli I used to have in great profusion when at Kew some years ago, and it was used for mixing with the large collection of winter- flowering Begonias which then existed there, and the white flowers of which this Gesneria brightened up considerably. It is surprising that so many fine plants that used to be effective in this manner have been allowed to drop out of cultivation, and little or nothing substituted in their place. — G. STATICE FLORIBUNDA. A FEW years ago, when specimen stove and green- house plants were more popular than they are now, the introduction of a new indoor Statice so distinct and beautiful as S. floribunda would have gained much attention. Instead of that, for some reason or other, it is but little known, though in many re- spects far finer than both S. prof usa and S. Holtordi, It is more nearly related to S. profusa, but differs from it in many particulars, especially in the size of the flowers and their rich bluish-purple colour, while, besides this, they are borne in more compact heads. The free and robust character of the newer plant is also a great point in its favour, especially as it is equally as free-flowering as any of the others, for even little plants in 4-inch pots will yield quite a wealth of blossoms. It is essentially a greenhouse plant and does well in a cold frame during the summer, this being the treatment given it at Messrs. Lee's nursery at Isleworth. It is of seedling origin, having been raised by the Messrs. Lee. It is easily propagated by cuttings, which may be taken at almost any time of the year, and if put in now would make nice little flowering plants for the coming season. A very good plan is to take the cuttings and insert them singly into small, well- drained pots, using soil consisting of peat, loam, and silver sand in equal parts. The catting should be put in at such a depth that the base of the bottom leaves just touches the soil, as if inserted deeper, decay is very liable to set in. Should it be difficult to obtain the cutting of sufficient length to keep its place without burying any of the foli- age, it should be tied to a little stick, which will hold it secure till it is rooted. After insertion and the first watering is given, the cutting pots should be plunged in a gentle bottom-heat in a propagating case, when, if care is taken not to over- water the cuttings and to give air whenever neces- sary to prevent decay, they will soon root. Where appliances for propagating these plants are not at hand they can, especially if old and somewhat leggy specimens are available, be increased by a modification of layering, such as is often carried out in the case of double-flowered Primulas, viz , make two or three incisions with a sharp knife in the exposed portion of the stem, and surround it with Moss, into which, if it is kept fairly moist, plenty of roots will soon be produced, and when sufficiently advanced the rooted portion can be taken off and potted. The soil used by the Messrs. Lee, who succeed so well with this Statice, is two parts good turfy loam to one each of peat and sand. H. P. SHORT NOTES.— STOVE AND OREENBOUSE. thing that attracted my attention was the Violets. Mr. Lyon had them growing in some pits that had been used for Melons during the summer. They were close to the glass and placed wide enough apart so that the leaves did not touch each other. All these plants, Mr. Lyon told me, were grown in the open garden in full sun during the summer. They were all raised from cut- tings, and the plants kept to the single crown. — J. C. F. The climbing Gentian. — A gentleman writes asking where ho can obtain this plant, and I suppose by this question he is referring to the genus Crawfur- dia, hut I am not sui-e whether he will tind auy species in cultivation. I have a recollection that one species was flowered by tlie Messrs. Veitch many years ago, but I dn not think they maintained it in cultivation. — W. 11. G. Jaaminum pubeseens is not so extensively grown as it should be. Occasionally it may he seen thriving luxuriantly in a stove in old-fashioned gardens, but this is an exception. As a wintcr-hlooming Jas- mine, the beautiful .1. gracillimum appears to he more popular, for being of stronger growth, it yields a greater quantity of flowers which are excellent for cutting at this time of year. Jasminum pubeseens, however, is worthy of a place in every atove, and gardeners will do well to reinstate it. — C. L. Violets at Cricket St. Thomas.— When look- ing through these gardens at the end of November, one KREESIA CULTURE. Op the many species of Cape bulbous plants, there are none more charming than the lovely, sweet- scented Freesia. Only two species, viz., F. refracta and F. Leichtlini, are recognised, and these are of- ten difficult to distinguish. F. refracta is, however, decidedly the better of the two, having larger and much finer flowers, but the one more generally grown is a variety of this called Y. refracta alba, which is certainly the most charming of all. Its flowers are almost pure white, but occasionally have a blotch on each of the lower sepals of a deep orange colour. For cutting I know of nothing to surpass the flowers of the Freesia, as they last in good condition so long in water, and when the slender spikes are arranged with sprays of Maiden- hair Fern there are few other flowers that will compare favourably with them. But good as these lovely flowers are for cutting, they are equally as well adapted for pot culture for conservatory de- coration, and where well managed, they might easily be had in bloom for many months. To ob- tain this it is necessary to have several batches of plants, which should be potted at intervals, say about three weeks apart, during autumn. Various modes of culture are practised and all with satis- factory results. The plan generally adopted is to select bulbs of nearly the same size, so as to have the plants of about equal strength, putting five or six bulbs into a 5-inch pot about the beginning of August, growing them in a cold frame, and keep- ing them on tlie dry side till they are fairly started into growth, when they need a liberal supply of water. If all goes well, the flower-spikes will be- gin to show early in December, and by placing a few in a temperature of 55° the bloom will expand by Christmas without fear of doing any damage to the bulb. As there is always an extra demand for choice, sweet-scented flowers at that season, they are sure to be appreciated. Another simple mode of growing these charming flowers is never to dry the bulbs off at all, but as soon as the flower- stems die down, to give them a shift into a larger pot. If they are in 5-inch size, as I mentioned above, shift them bodily into a size or two larger, say 7-inct or 8-inch, and keep them watered. The foliage naturally ripens off, but the bulbs will in- crease in size and soon start into active growth again. These will produce much stronger plants than when the bulbs are allowed to go thoroughly to rest, the flower-spikes also producing flowers more abundantly. I have grown them in this way and had upwards of 200 flowers open at once. Grown on in this manner they come into bloom three weeks or a month earlier than those potted in August. Treated as an annual, the Freesia can be brought into bloom in a few months, but the flower-spike is weak and the individual flowers are necessarily small. The seed should be sown as soon as ripe in July, and the seedlings pricked off into 4-inch or 5-inch pots, about five or six plants in each as soon as they are large enough to handle ; if well attended to, many of them will flower the following fjiring, and the remainder will make nice bulbs for the next year's supply. I have found them to thrive in almost any rich porous compost, but a mixture of two parts loam, one each of leaf- mould and good rotten horse manure, with an abun- dance of coarse sand suits them admirably. F. G. Ruellia macrantha. — This is an exceptionally fine Acanthad, which was figured in The Garden, July 2, 1S87. It was grown extensively by Messrs. Seeger and Tropp in their nursery in Lordship Lane, Dulwich, but it appears to require to be grown into good-sized plants to become effective. Its flowers are very large, but not produced in abundance upon one shoot, so that unless there are many shoots the plant is not showy. It is a very fine plant and well deserves cultivation for winter flowering. — W. H. G. Parrotia perslca. — This tree used to be very fine upon a wall in Kew Gardens, but it does equally well when planted in the ojjen. It is some 10 feet or 20 feet high, having alternate leaves, which are deep green, becoming in the autumn rich orange, changing to yellow and brilliant scarlet. The flowers appear before the leaves, and are showy from the numerous stamens which have scarlet anthers. Planters should use this tree more if It can be obtained, and It is not too late to plant now. — W. H. G. AUoplectus peltatus.— This is a Veitchian introduction from Costa Rica some twelve years ago or perhaps a little more. It makes a woody stem and bears somewhat fleshy leaves, which are oblong, tapering to a point, and rounded at the base. One leaf on each side is reduced to a stipule, this and the peculiar peltate insertion of the petiole giving the plant a very curious appearance. The Bowers are produced from the axils of the leaves, the calyx is enlarged and very richly coloured, being of a deep blood red or reddish purple ; flowers tubular, with a spreading limb, and pale yellowish white, the throat bearing several raised lines of rich orange ; the flowers last long in perfection. — W. H. G. Clianthus Dampieri in New Jersey. — This flowers with me abundantly in the open ground and produces seed-pods in quantity ; one of these I enclose. The Clianthus does not readily bear being transplanted, so it is well to sow the seeds where the plants are wanted; but they may be forwarded with advantage in a cold frame in early spring, and if transferred to the open ground with a ball of soil attached, they hardly feel the re- moval. In our climate the latter part of May is soon enough to put out the plants, the warm weather usually setting in about that time, and they push along vigorously. A position shaded for ^two or three hours in the middle of the day suits the Clianthus better than where the broiling sun of July and August pours down strongly at noon. Too much dry heat brings red spider. In this part of the country light frosts are expected about the 1st of October, at which time the Clian- thus should be covered with brilliant clusters of quaintly-shaped, crimson-scarlet flowers, each one oddly marked with a large blotch of absolute black, and the whole flower shining with a silky lustre. When the night is so chilly that frost is expected, a sheet thrown over the plant will partially protect it from the cold, and the blooming may thus be prolonged for two or three weeks. I almost forgot to say that my soil ranges from pure sand to a light loam, and the Clianthus does well in either of these. What the result might be if it were planted in heavy clay soil I cannot say.— Geoege Such, South Amhoi/, A'err Jersey, Siphocampylus Humboldtianus.— This is a species which I recently noted very flnely treated as a basket plant. It is an old and much neglected plant, and perhaps one of the best of the family to which it belongs, although the genus does abound in showy species. It was introduced by Mr. Wm. Bull about twenty-five years ago, I believe, and as I saw it recently was growing in a hanging basket, the points of all the shoots being covered with long tubular bright scarlet flowers ; the throat is yellow, and the exserted anthers conspicuous, being of a bright violet tinge. The plant has rich green leaves, which are serrated on the edges, and bright green on the upper side, and the stems are tinged with violet-purple. It is very easily grown into a good specimen, and should be potted in a mixture of peat, loam, and leaf-mould in equal parts. The whole must be made sandy, and the pots be well drained. It is, I believe, a native of Peru, and after flowering should be kept quite cool and cut back hard in the spring in order to keep it bushy, and grown in the intermediate stove. It will not require stopping much if it is cut back sufficiently at first, but if any shoots show any inclination to Jan. 25, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 87 outgrow the others and to thus rob the plant of its symmetry, they must, of coarse, be restrained. I hope to see this plant more frequently, and there are also numerous other gay-flowered kinds which I used to see in many gardens in my young days, but which now are never seen. — W. H. G. Fruit Garden. NEW HYBRID GRA.PES. The three seeiUing Grapes raised by Mr. ]\Iyles, gardener to Sir W. Hutt, Appley Towers, Isle of Wight, will form a most valuable acquisition to our late bottling varieties, of which we have none too many of first-rate quality. The three seedlings, two black and one white, were placed before the fruit committee of the Royal Horti- cultural Society on Tuesday, the 17th inst., when the first-class certificate awarded to one named Appley Towers a short time ago was con- firmed. No. 1 was not considered quite so tender as the certificated hybrid, but it pos- sesses all the merits of a first-class winter and late spring Grape, and is sure to come to the front when shown again another season. The white seedling, which Mr. Myles has named Lady Hutt, was not in condition, having been grown on a very bad stock known as the Cur- rant Grape, and it is to be regretted that Mr. Myles placed it before the committee, especially as he has been so fortunate as to raise three front rank hybrids from a single berry. The seed-bearing parent of these hybrids is Gros Colman crossed with Black Damascus, better known as Meredith's Alicante, and the fact that one of them is white, and all three difier in shape and texture, prove that a true cross has been secured by Mr. Myles, who de- serves something more substantial than the best thanks of all winter Grape growers. Some years ago a Mr. Foster astonished the fraternity by raising from one berry our best late black winter Grape Lady Downe's and our best early white Grape Foster's Seedling, but Mr. Myles beats the record, as he has a trio of good ones which will enrich our Grape rooms in the future. As very few gardeners were present, a few remarks upon these hybrids maybe interesting, especially as all three of them are infinitely superior to their parents. Appley Towers forms a shapely conical bunch well furnished with roundish berries set on short stout stalks, reminding one of Gros Col- man. The skin is not tough, but stout enough to ensure keeping for a long time after the bunches are cut and bottled. Colour and bloom good, flesh tender and very sweet, and minus the disagreeable earthy taste which character- ises Gros Colman. The Vine is a strong grower, shows profusely, and sets freely. Seedling No. 1, shown on Tuesday for the first time, is the exact counterpart of an old friend known as Black Morocco or Kempsey Alicante, a superb winter Grape when well done, but a bad setter, and rarely perfect in colour. No. 1, although not quite so black as the certificated hybrid, was well coloured ; bunch a good shape, berries oval on stout foot- stalks, flesh more tender and sweeter than that of Kempsey Alicante, skin thick enough to ensure keeping, and not given to cracking or spotting at the apex. The Vine is a strong grower, and shows an abundance of clusters which set as freely as the Hamburgh. Although several of the leading Grape growers were in favour of a first-class certificate they were outvoted, their opponents being unanimous in the request that No. 1 might be sent up again later in the season. Lady Hutt, the white hybrid, as I have just observed, was shown under most decided disad- vantages, the stock being perhaps the worst that could have been selected for a seedling from Gros Colman. The bunch was hardly large enough to enable one to form a correct opinion of its future contour, but the berries, slightly flattened, gave evidence of large size and shape similar to that of the seed parent. The flesh of this Grape is tender, very sweet, and the seeds showing through the skin recalled the well- known early variety Buckland Sweetwater. Mr. Myles assured me that this, like the pre- ceding, is making excellent wood, and, being a good setter, he hopes to show it in good condi- tion another season. "But why another white variety," I heard someone say, " when we have the king of Grapes in Muscat of Alexandria ;" Well, why indeed, when we have the queen of late white Grapes in Mrs. Pearson. No Grape yet raised, or to be raised, can beat these two; but how many growers since Tilyard and William Meads passed away have Muscats in quantity or quality after the Christmas hoUdays '. About that time Mrs. Pearson comes to the front, hangs quite as well as Lady Downe's, and beats the third-rate Trebbiano out of reckoning. Mrs. Pearson, then, should have a worthy com- panion, and this, I think, will be found in Lady Hutt, as it is tender in the flesh and skin, and likely to become invaluable to those who do not care for fleshy Grapes. Moreover, it will supply a want long felt by invalids. W. C. APPLE LORD SUFFIELD. I FIRST became acquainted with this Apple some thirty-five years ago in the neighbourhood of Man- chester, where it was raised, and I have grown it in various parts of the country, and on soils as dif- ferent as they well could be, varying from a light sandy loam to the heaviest of clay. The district where I have always understood that it originated, Ashton, is on the eastern side of Manchester. The soil is naturally wet with, in most places, a heavy tenacious clay subsoil, and the atmosphere is be- grimed with smoke, which, in addition to that made in the immediate neighbourhood, is increased ten- fold by that of Manchester, from which direction the wind carries it for more than half the year. Yet here, where the collective conditions are such that few Apples do much good, it used to bear well, and for anything I know continues to do so. I have seldom seen it grown as a standard, to which form it is not by nature adapted, as under ordinary treatment the tree is not long-lived. It be- gins to bear early and, as anyone who has seen much of it is aware, heavily. The weight of the crops it carries regularly, even in seasons when most other kinds fail, checks the growth, so that no root prun- ing is required, nor the transplanting which some consider necessary on cold soils. The weight of the crops it bears when the fruits are not thinned has most likely something to do with its being shorter-lived than many kinds. I have seen trees that had the appearance of being prematurely worn out with excessive bearing that were cankered to some extent, but I cannot agree with those who give it the character of being much subject to that disease. The varieties that are most affected with canker, such as the old Hawthornden, suffer from its attacks when quite young and otherwise in full vigour. This I have never seen Lord Suftield do. The character of the fruit and its freedom in bearing caused it to be planted by most people in Lancashire and Cheshire some time before it was known further south. From my experience I am satisfied that the tree has less staying power in it than its parent, Kes- wick Codlin, from which variety there is little doubt it has sprung. But this would not prevent me planting it either in a private garden or for market, as by the time the trees are a score of years old they will have given three or four times the weight and also value of fruit that many of the longer-lived varieties that are slower in giving any return will yield. On account of the size the fruit attains early in the season it is ready for use sooner than that of any other sort with which I am ac- quainted. This makes it as valuable both to those who grow Apples for their own use as it is to those who grow for sale, and who by sending half the crop to market as soon as the fruit is usable can relieve the trees, and in this way lengthen their life. The fruit when cooked is almost identical ' with that of Keswick Codlin, becoming pulpy like Dumelow's Seedling and other sauce Apples. This by some is looked upon as a merit in cooking Apples, but I fail to see it. My idea is that when taken from the oven the pieces which the fruit has been cut into should to some extent retain their shape in the way of Blenheim, Cobbett's Fall, and others of similar character which do not shrink so much in the cooking. Lord Suffield requires less pruning than most varieties. When once the groundwork for the future tree is laid by securing enough branches to furnish it, comparatively little pruning is afterwards necessary. T. B. PHYLLOXERA. AND TANK BORDERS. Mr. Challis, in concluding his remarks on this subject in The Garden, Jan. 11 (p. 31), says, " I would here sound a warning note to those who contemplate growing their Vines in tank borders, viz., not to submerge them at any period except when the Vines are in a comparative state of rest, otherwise they may find that the remedy is quite as bad or even worse than the disease, for reasons which need no explanation." As the above " warn- ing note " is evidently meant for the benefit (?) of those of your readers who may be disposed to follow the advice given by me to "A. W. N." in The Garden a few weeks ago (pp. 5 KM, Vol. XXXVI.), I may be allowed to make a few addi- tional remarks in reference thereto in order to show how far this " warning note " — the reasons for which " need no explanation " — was necessary or justifiable. In the first place, I may be permitted to say that it was I who first showed Mr. Challis the Phylloxera in its various stages of growth and in full activity through a powerful microscope, and who at the same time gave it him as my opinion, judging from the external appearance of the Amines at Wilton, that the dreaded Phylloxera was in the vineries there also, a st itement which proved to be only too well founded, adding, at the same time, that in my opinion the Phylloxera was in a large percentage of the vineries in this country, unknown to the gardeners in charge, the majority of whom had never seen a living Phylloxera. I merely mention these semi-personal facts to show your readers that my practical experience of Phylloxera is quite as old and extended as that of Mr. Challis. I still adhere to my conviction regarding the uselessness of flooding ■\^ine borders in spring and late autumn with a view to eradicating Phylloxera. This, as pointed out in my previous letter, is owing to the fact of the Phylloxera being then at rest, and, con- sequently, impervious to injury from submersion. Mr. Challis says that if the Vine borders be sub- merged at any other period than that stated by himself, " the remedy will be as bad or even worse than the disease, for reasons which need no expla- nation." How does he arrive at this conclusion ? What possible material injury could the Vines in an early house, from which the Grapes had been cut, sustain by the border being submerged at the end of July and again for four or five days a week or ten days later? The Vines thus submerged could only absorb so much moisture through their roots, and no more. And what great injury would result from the complete submersion of the roots and borders of Vines actually swelling and ripening their crops, with the hot-water pipes kept warm and the atmo- sphere dry and airy at the same time ? The Vines in this case could only assimilate a given quantity of moisture through their roots, notwithstanding their submersion. Supposing a few berries cracked, or even if a dozen or two bunches got spoiled in con- sequence of the roots being under water, which 1 88 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 25, 1890. do not say would be the case, would not the end justify the means one hundredfold ? Many good intentions have been rained by following a " penny- wise-and-pound-foolish " way of doing things. I may say that during the time the "\lnes had been afEeoted with Phylloxera here that I showed it in all its stages of development to scores of ladies and gentlemen visiting at the castle, also to several gardeners, so that they one and all might know the dreaded pest, realise its power of destruction once it effects a lodgment on Vines, and thereby be the better able to sympathise with any of their friends and neighbours who happened to have their "Vines attacked by the Phylloxera. Mr. Challis says (p. 34) : " The method I adopted at first was to submerge the borders as soon as the wood was ripe and the Grapes cleared off in the autumn, and again just before the buds began to swell in the following season, but for the last two or three years I have submerged them at the latter period only, and have hitherto found it perfectly safe and effectual." In conclusion, I should like to make one or two remarks on the statement quoted: 1, were the Vines first planted by Mr. Challis in the tank borders perfectly free from Phylloxera ? 2, if so, the flooding of the borders as indicated was merely a matter of precaution ; 3, on the other hand, if the pest was found on the Vines growing in the tank borders after repeated annual and biennial flooding of the borders, it afforded conclu- sive proof of the flooding process at the periods recommended by Mr. Challis being " perfectly safe" as regards the Vines and equally harmless as re- gards the Phylloxera. Once more I strongly re- commend gardeners having Vines growing in tank borders, i.e., in borders which can be rendered water-tight to a point a few inches above the sur- face of the border, and which happen to be affected with the Phylloxera to flood the borders for a few days about the end of July and again a week or ten days later, for reasons stated in The Garden for December 14, 1889. H. W. Ward. Loyigford Castle. Apples and Pears for Hants.— I am about to make an orchard capable of containing about 100 Apple and Pear trees 14 feet apart, with bush fruits between. The soil is light loam about 18 inches deep, resting on solid chalk. The situation is open to the south-east, sheltered on the north by a plantation of Beech. Would you please mention about a dozen each good sorts of Apple and Pear trees which would be likely to succeed, and give a succession of fruit from September to May; a few of both for dessert and the remainder for kitchen use ? The trees are to be pyramids.— T. S., Hants. Morello Cherries.— I, like " E.," see no reason why the training, &c., of the Morello should be left until the last. In some gardens, summer pruning or pinching, as it may be termed, is carried out in the same manner as in the case of sweet Cherries. Were it not for Morello Cherries I do not know what kinds of fruit we should plant against our north walls. Currants, Red and White, succeed admirably, and provide late crops of fruit till the end of October. Very often Gooseberries succeed also in this position, but nobody needs great quan- tities of these for late supplies. When I lived in Lancashire a large Morello Cherry tree was grow- ing at the foot of a stable wall facing north-west. The tree was probably 20 feet high ; one end of it had extended around the corner of the wall which faced south-west. In its growth it passed over the face of a chimney. From here and along the south- western wall we gathered always by far the largest crop of fruit, which was much finer in quality, size, colour, and flavour. When any Cherries were required for exhibition, as they sometimes were, it was on this aspect they were obtained. M. Rooting Strawberry runners on turf.— I am very much in favour of this operation, and said so in The Garden some years ago. It is the next best way of layering Strawberry runners to using pots, and if the young plants are intended for planting in the open quarters I would rather have them layered in turves than pots. Our mode of layering has been to get some good fibrous turves from 2 inches to 3 inches thick, and cut these into squares about 4 inches in diameter. The man who layers takes a number of these in a basket with some short Bracken, or wood pegs, and a trowel. Holes are made in the vicinity of the runners so as to allow the turves to drop in level with the ground, and a runner is pegged on the centre of each. The turf is used upside down, and as there is generally a good deal of foliage about the Straw- berries at that time combined with the plunging of the turf, it is astonishing how little the runners suffer from drought. The roots penetrate the turf in a very short time, and if the turves are soaked in manure water before being used, the roots will quickly take possession of them without entering the surrounding soil, and in a fortnight or so after layering the plants and turves become firmly at- tached. I never knew plants layered in this cheap and simple way fail to become quickly es- tablished and to do well either in the open ground or in pots for forcing. — J. MuiR. CORDON APPLES FOR OPEN TRELLIS FACING NORTH. Had "Cordon" (Garden, Jan. 11, p. 31) given an idea of his soil, situation, and locality, fruit growers would have been able to answer his inquiry with a tolerable degree of certainty, but, like nine-tenths of the querists who ask for important information, he has left others to surmise the points which should govern the advice he seeks through the pages of The Gaeden. Under these circumstances, and uncertain as to whether he lies south of London or north of the Trent, the most carefully provised lists may prove misleading, as some of the best sorts which would do well on a north trellis in the south or west might prove altogether too tender in the north, whilst a list suitable to Yorkshire might not contain several of the very best varieties which might be grown in the south. An open trellis facing north in a good locality is better than a north wall in a bad locality, and on this even a great number of fruits can be grown well, always provided certain conditions as to drainage, contracted root space, elevated borders, and a careful selection of stocks, as I pointed out the other day in my paper upon cordons for north walls, be observed by the planter. In this case, no matter how good the locality, unless the subsoil be hot, dry, and really unfavourable to the Apple, " Cordon " should make well-drained ele- vated borders, and then, having decided upon plant- ing his Apples and Pears back to back, he should keep the stems pretty well away from the treUis with slates set on edge to prevent the roots from running into each other. By adopting this plan, the root-lifting of the one set of trees can be per- formed without seriously disturbing the others, and by keeping the Pears in perfect condition as really close cordons, the position will be by no means bad for almost any of the well-tried varieties usually met with as standards and bushes. No one, I sup- pose, would take a leap in the dark by recommend- ing Cox's or Kibston Pippins, two of our very best Apples and specially at home on the Paradise stock, neither must our noble friend the Blenheim have a place, as it does best on the Crab with an abund- ance of room for extension , but seeing that " Cordon " knows his own latitude and is pretty well acquainted with the varieties which do well as standards in the locality, he must exercise his own discretion in the selection of sorts which require a good soil and climate. Maiden trees are cheap enough, and double grafting in some cases being beneficial, any mis- takes in selection may soon be remedied ; but were I planting a trellis of this kind I should arrange the choice or doubtful dessert varieties alternately with the hardiest which would succeed, for after all that has been said about quick returns there is no denying the fact that dessert Apples which do not require sugar are the best for cooking purposes. Then in the event of choice sorts proving a success, I should transfer the hardy varieties to another site and lose no time in converting those retained into double cordons. Take, for instance, Claygate Pear- main, one of our hardiest, healthiest, and most pro- lific late dessert Apples, but little inferior to the Ribston Pippin and superb when cooked. Plant it extensively for giving a supply from November until March, and let the others run in alternately as supernumeraries, to be retained or transferred at pleasure. The new Besspool, a Nottinghamshire Apple, is well worth a trial, and if it succeeds, " Cordon " will have two of the most delicious eat- ing or cooking varieties in cultivation. There are, of course, any number of varieties which will do well, as I have proved them here on cold east walls where the morning sun does not reach them very early and leaves them about noon, and yet the fruit is remarkably fine, clean, and well coloured. Run- ning through a good fruit list and taken alphabetic- ally I can vouch for the following, viz , Claygate Pearmain, Court Pendu Plat, Court of Wick, Cox's Redleaf Russet, Devonshire Quarrenden, Dutch Mignonne, Fearn's Pippin, Irish Peach, Kerry Pippin, Golden Winter Pearmain, Sturmer Pippin, and Worcester Pearmain. These are alike good for the table or cooking and do well on the Doucin stock. Of cooking Apples not so well adapted for dessert, the following succeed on an east wall, viz., Alfriston, Alexander, Bramley's Seedling, Cellini, Cox's Pomona, Dumelow's Seedling, EcklinviUe Pip- pin, Hawthornden, Keswick Codlin, Lord Suffield, Lord Grosvenor, Mere de Menage, Northern Green- ing, Stirling Castle, Stone's Apple, Striped Beaufln, Warner's King, and Winter Hawthornden. This list might be extended, but if "Cordon "' looks into a good list he will find that one-half of these will give to a private family a succession which will carry through the whole of the Apple season, com- mencing with Keswick Codlin and Irish Peach, and ending with Dumelow's Seedling and Alfriston. W.C. APPLES FOR HEREFORD. I AM proposing to plant one or two small orchards in Herefordshire. Would you kindly tell me the best kinds to plant, or put me in the way of getting the best book on the subject? The orchards in each case would be about two acres. I would prefer to plant trees for pot fruit rather than for cider.— R. Bridgpord. *,* Although Apples of all kinds save the very ten- der section do well in Herefordshire, the writer of the annexed letter must not run away with the idea that every acre of land in the county is adapted to the culture of this fruit. The deep heavy loams of the old red sandstone produce the strongest, finest- coloured and most delicious cider met with in any part of Great Britain, and the situation being high, well sheltered from east and north, and open to the sun, the quality of table fruit is superb, although neither so large nor highly-coloured as the best samples met with in the neighbourhood of Maid- stone and in some other parts of Kent. On the cold thin limestone marls cider is poor and defi- cient in saccharine matter ; consequently it soon goes sour; table fruit is small and lacking colour, is only second rate, whilst such sorts as Cox's Orange Pippin do not pay for cultivation. From these re- marks your correspondent hailing from Manchester will gather that Apples, good, bad, and indifferent, are grown in Herefordshire, also that the selection of soil and site is of more importance than the selection of \arieties. Draining, deep cultivation, shelter, intelligent planting and management are important items in all parts of the county, no matter how good the soil and site, but unless the latter are really first rate, the speculative planter must not expect to make much headway. If your correspondent owns the land or has ob- tained a thirty years' lease, and the two acre spots are well situated on the red loam, he may plant Alfriston, Besspool (new), Bramley's Seedling, Clay- gate Pearmain, Golden Winter Pearmain, Cox's Orange Pippin, Dutch Mignonne, Lane's Prince Albert, Mfere de Menage, Northern Greening, Stone's or Loddington, Sturmer Pippin, Wellington, Winter Queening, Carlisle Codlin, Keswick Codlin, Lord Suffield, Devonshire Quarrenden, Stirling Castle, Irish Peach, Cox's Pomona, Brabant Bellefleur, Tom Putt, Tyler's Kernel, Striped Beaufin and Wor- cester Pearmain, or a selection from them as dwarfs on the Doucin stock, or standards on the Crab. Blenheim Orange is not a success on the Paradise Jan. 25, 1890.] THE GAEDEN. 89 or dwarfing stocks, but a superb Apple on the Crab, and should be most extensively planted by each succeeding generation, as it is not fertile in a young state, but once in ^bearing it may be considered good for fifty to eighty years. The best, most popular, and exhaustive work on the Apple is the Report of the Apple and Pear Con- ference, including parts 1, 2, and 3, vol. x., pub- lished by the Royal Horticultural Society, 117, Vic- toria Street, Westminster, price 7s. 6d., or in a cheap form at Is. tjd. In addition to papers on culture for profit, on pruning, on diseases ami in- sects, this cheap volume contains selected lists of Apples best suited to each county in the United Kingdom, a descriptive catalogue, statistics, and other matter with which all fruit growers should make themselves thoroughly acquainted, not only before they commence planting, but also before they select a site for an orchard. — W. C. Apple Beauty of Hants.— What Mr. Hibberd has said about this Apple, as quoted in The Gar- den at page 47, is an admirable example of the way history is written. Mr. Hibberd says, " and has actually been named Beauty of Hants on ac- count of the splendour of samples grown in that county in gardens near the sea." As the sponsor for the variety, if it really be distinct, I may say that it originated from one tree only. When I first noticed it in fruit, then some 20 years old, and in the garden at Glen Eyre, Southampton, situated on the high ground at Bassett on gravelly soil, the gardener, Mr. Stewart, who had planted the tree, maintained that it was one of a batch which came from Mr. Rogers' Red Lodge Nursery close by. The belief that it was a distinct variety arose from the fact that it fruited more freely than other trees of the Blenheim close by. The fruits were always much more highly coloured, and invariably were conical in form. 1 believe this latter characteristic still attaches to the variety, as having a worked tree of it here I find the fruits always more gener- ally conical than are those of the Blenheim on a tree within 12 feet of the other. Believing it to be a dis- tinct and superior form of the Blenheim, I suggested to Mr. Stewart the name " Beauty of Hants," and under that designation it was figured by Mr. Macfarlane, and the stock sold to Mr. Mongredien when a nurseryman at Heatherside, Bagshot. If generally it has been found that Beauty of Hants of the true stock is identical with Blenheim, then the peculiarities of the fruit on the original tree must have been due to extraneous causes. — A. D. *,* At the Apple conference, 1883, Beauty of Hants and Blenheim Orange were considered sy- nonymous.— Ed. Work in fruit houses under difBcuIties. — I have to thank Mr. W. Coleman for his out- spoken article on the above subject in The Gar- den, Jan. i (p. 14), in which the position of a great many gardeners is truthfully portrayed. Some are not only expected to make bricks without straw, but are required to be competent to create things — at least they ought to be from the many unreason- able calls they have when their facilities are alto- gether inadequate to meet them. A little glass, and that of a construction more ornamental than useful, probably designed and erected by someone knowing absolutely nothing of plant life, pictur- esque in shape and ornamented with coloured glass, and which the uninitiated would-be occupier, viewing for the first time is apt to think very pretty. If he takes possession and has a little know- ledge— which is a dangerous thing — his gardener finds that he is expected to have abundance of cut flowers, plants for room decoration, &c. I have grown plants for nearly twelve months, and when in bloom they were transferred to a gas- laden room, where in a day or two they have been wrecks of their former selves, and only fit for the rubbish heap. Had I had a town of houses and plenty of hands the case would have been different. There is quite enough and far too much of the happy family mode of cultivation expected to be carried out now-a-days without anyone trying to revive systems that have become obsolete, but it is usual with some people to expatiate on the good | old days, when grand things were accomplished. It is the laudable desire of many to improve the position and condition of gardeners, but such a non- sensical theory as Pines under Vines will not help to that end, as many employers are ready to swear by what they read in so-and-so, and fully expect their gardeners to accomplish such feats or quit their service. I always admire the writings of men who have won their spurs in the exhibition tent, as from experience they know what cultivation really is and what it is possible to accomplish under adverse conditions. An ounce of practice is worth a ton of theory.— Pathfindbk. MELONS. Now that the time for sowing Melons has again arrived, and growers have made their selection of varieties, a 3-inch pot, well drained and three- quarters filled with a compost of decomposed turf, mixed with a small proportion of leaf-mould, will be found very suitable on which to sow the seeds. I place three seeds in each pot (near the side), covering them with a quarter of an inch of the above materials, finely sifted, and plunging in a bottom heat of S0°. An atmospheric temperature of 70° is given, and the pots are kept as near the glass as possible in order to secure sturdy plants. Just as the young plants show the natural leaf is the time for potting them off singly ; but the kind of fruit desired will influence the cultivator in the treat- ment he gives them now and during their future period of growth, as that grown for the exhioition table must be managed differently from that which is to be placed on the table of our employers. Melons for the table, — In the first place, I will deal with those intended for the table, because handsome, well-grown examples are what we like to obtain for the dining-room. The young plants may now be potted up to the cotyledons in the same sized pots as those in which they have been raised, and the same compost used, with the addition of a little well-decomposed manure, and the soil kept rather loose. The plants may then be returned to the hot-bed, and water given sparingly until the roots have occupied the new soil. At this stage the pots should be raised to the top of the plung- ing material in order to prepare them for the final shift into the bed or pots in which they are to be fruited. By this time the bed in the Melon house will be in readiness for them, by having been filled with fermenting material, which is very much better than the dry heat from hot water pipes. On this hot-bed place a layer of turf, grass side downwards, and on it raise mounds 2i feet apart, and close to the front wall, of a compost consisting of four- fifths of good fibrous yellow loam and one-fifth well decomposed ma- nure, with a sprinkling of wood-ashes and lime rubbish. The plants may now be removed from the pots and one placed in the centre of each mound, the soil made firm and well watered. A stake to each plant will be necessary if the trellis is any distance from the soil. By maintaining a saturated atmosphere during sunny weather, but on no account syringing the plants, they will make rapid progress, which will occasion the re- peated tying of the leading shoots until they are within a foot of the top of the trellis, at which point they may be stopped. Pinch all lateral growths half way up the stem at the first leaf and train the unpinched laterals and the sub- laterals in a horizontal position. By this mode of treatment a good show of female flowers will be ensured at both top and bottom of the plant at the same time, and when these flowers have made their appearance, stop all growths at the first leaf beyond them. When this is done, and the bed is in a moderately dry condition, a good " set" may be expected, if a number of flowers be impregnated on the same day between 10 and 11 a.m. (1 men- tion 10 or 11 a.m., as, even if dull, the tempe- rature will be rising, and the flowers, consequently, drier.) As soon as a good " set " has been secured, top-dress the bed with the same materials as those in which the plants are growing, with this excep- tion, that a larger quantity of manure must be added — one of manure to three of the other con- stituents—and give it a thoroughly good watering. Once the roots have occupied the top-dressing, the plants may, with advantage, be watered with liquid manure as they require it until the fruits show signs of ripening ; then all water should be used care- fully in the house or applied to the roots, as a stagnant atmosphere charged with moisture or a wet bed at this period means cracked Melons. It will be easily ascertained whether the fruits Me ripe or not by their smell. Well-grown plants will carry 2| lbs. of fruit to the foot-run of stem. Ventilation during the early months of the year must be carefully attended to, as the hot bursts of sunshine are often accompanied with dry, cold, cutting winds, which are injurious to tender plants, robbing them of their moisture and paralysing them to such a degree that after results are very much short of what they otherwise would have been. When these cold winds prevail, it is better to sprinkle the bed and paths with water in order to keep the atmosphere moist, and to allow the tem- perature to rise to 95° than to admit them, but as a change of air is beneficial to all plants, the apex ventilators in favourable weather should be em- ployed to accomplish this end. Melons for show. — As small Melons, like small Grapes and Strawberries, are sweeter than those exhibiting more marked skill in production, my object will be to deal with the means to be employed in order to secure a crop of small fruit, which usually finds favour at the exhibition. In potting oft the seedlings, no manure should be used in the compost, but a small quantity of wood ashes may be added to the same kind of soil as that in which they have been raised. This mixture will be found an excellent medium for their roots until the plants are ready to be planted out. The above ingredients, augmented with a dash of lime rubbish, will serve as a good bed in which to grow them in their fruiting quarters. Five feet apart is a good distance to plant the Melons, and when they have established themselves in the soil pinch the leading shoot and adopt the fan mode of training with the four or five growths, which result from the stopping, and again pinch these growths when within a foot of their allotted space ; also all sub-laterals at the leaf beyond the female flower, thereby securing a large number of the latter all over the plant about the same time, and rendering the setting of the re- quired quantity a simple matter. A fruit to every 18 inches square will be sufficient to leave on the plant. All subsequent treatment must be similar to that recommended for the production of Melons for home use. Should these small fruits be required for home consumption, four will constitute a dish, and al- though lacking the appearance of large examples, they may still prove agreeable to the palate. J. RiDDELL. Espalier trees. — The value of this mode of train- ing trees cannot be too often pointed out to all who want tine examples of Apples and Pears. This more especially appUes to those who have only small gardens, seeing the little quantity of room espaliers take up. It may be said espaliers are expensive, owing to the stakes, Ac, required ; but this is not so when iron stands and wire are used. I know a garden in Dorset- shire where there are many trees trained in this method. On these trees I have seen some of the brightest and largest Blenheim Orange, Cox's Orange, Kibston, Pomeroy and Sturmer Pippin Apples I ever remember. Many kinds of Pears did equally well. For large kinds, or kinds that require to bang on the trees late, espiiliers are to be recommended, as the autumn gales do not blow the fruits off, and thus they become thoroughly ripened.— .T. C. F. The late pruning of Peach trees.— It is often recommended to delay the pruning of Peach and Nectarine trees in the open air until March or there- abouts and they are generally the last to he operated on in this way, but I do not approve of this practice, as I tind that Peach and Nectarine trees in the open are .amongst the earliest of all fruit trees to swell their buds and push into blossom and growth. To delay pruning until this occurs, even in a slight degree acts most injuriously on the immediate and future success of the tree. In my opinion the whole of the open-air Peach and Nectarine trees should be pruned in January 90 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 25, 1890. and the nailing-in should be doue as soon after that as pos3ible._ Our trees are having attention now, and I can see if we delayed for three or four weeks they could neither be pruned nor nailed without doing much harm. — Cambrian. THE VINE.* Formation op Vine boedbrs, &c. — In propor- tion to the pains and labour taken in making a Vine border, so also will be the after results in the ma- jority of cases. I admit there are exceptions, but these are rare, and the soil itself in such cases is generally well adapted to the requirements of the Vine. Drainage in some form or another is neces- sary as a foundation upon which to make up the border. Where the subsoil is clay and the sur- roundings with a tendency to excess of moisture, I advise the bottom of the border to be concreted and have a gentle slope to the front, where a drain should be laid parallel with the vinery. If drain- pipes in sufficient numbers can be had, I would much prefer to cover the entire surface next the concrete with them, in rows pointing away from the drain to the house itself. In such a case some slight drainage should be laid on the top of the pipes to prevent the soil as much as possible from penetrat- ing into the pipes or choking the spaces between. Without the aid of drain-pipes I should resort to old brick rubble, with as much old mortar amongst it as possible. If driven to extremities, I should not hesitate to use coke, broken up fine, as a surface-dressing over coarser material. Having ad- vanced thus far, the next process will be toremove the soil to the border, first laying some of the best of the turves (which should have been specially laid aside), bottom upwards, over as much of the drainage as it is intended to occupy at the outset with the soil for the border. On these it should be built up to the required height in a solid manner (including drain- age, about 3 feet 6 inches is a good depth for a border), treading it down firmly as the work pro- gresses towards com]iletion. Here let me say that I am a strong believer in a border that is made in a firm and solid manner, and also (which I omitted to state) that pot Vines should be potted as firmly as it is possible to make the soil without breaking the pots. Why do you advise this? some may say. It is because the firmer the soil is the greater will be the quantity of fibrous roots, which are the feeders, so to speak, of the plant itself. We do not need such a number of the coarse porcupine-quill-like roots, running helter-skelter all over the soil, picking out this and the other consti- tuent that suit their fancy and leaving the rest. These are useful to a certain extent as main arteries to convey the sap upwards; but if the" exist in too great a quantity at the end of the grow- ing season, there must be a decay amongst them which will be detrimental to the Vine in future. The production of fibrous roots is what we should aim at in order to secure solid and substantial growth of the plant. These roots are useful to fer- tility in any plant, whether it be to produce flowers or fruit. Take the Peach and Nectarine, for in- stance : if these are grown too robust, they are not so fruitful as they should be. Gross growth in these fruit trees (as in others) means a corresponding gross activity at the roots, which has not patience to wait for the somewhat slow development of the fruit through its earlier stages ; consequently many drop off in their infancy or before stoning is com- pleted. This making of the border in a firm manner renders it all the more incumbent to secure the soil sufliciently on the dry side to avoid any pastiness ; if this occurs, the same soil will never work well afterwards. For the first two seasons, I consider a width of 5 feet quite sufficient for all the requirements of the Vines. Let them take well hold of that before adding any more thereto. Their roots should overrun all the soil that is given them ; this they would do fairly well in two seasons, when another 3 feet or so might be advantageously added, and so on until the border be completed. " Completed " is, however, hardly the * A paper read at the Ealing Gardeners' Mutual Improvement Society, November 27, 1889, by J. Hud- son, Gunnershury House Gardens. right word to use, for as long as moderately good Grapes even are aimed at, the border will need additions to be made to it at times to induce the roots to keep near the surface in search of fresh food. These additions, after the main bulk of the border has been made up, may be of a more stimu- lating nature, partaking more of the character of a top-dressing. For this I have no objection to good farmyard manure, at intervals of every few seasons ; as a change thereto, fowl's manure, mixed with soil three times its own quantity in bulk, is a good alternative. Decomposed leaf-soil, good in its way, should be avoided for fear of creating a fungoid growth. Of artificial manures as stimu- lating agents we have a number, each, of course, being " the best "for the purpose. I do not place too implicit a reliance in any one kind ; in fact I believe it is easy to use too much of such mixtures. They are many of them good in their way, but if used too liberally will become eventually an evil rather than an assistance to the cultivator. When the roots are in a confined space, and that well per- meated with the same, an artificial manure be- comes more useful than in a more extensive border. If more stimulating food is given to the Vines than they can absorb into their growth, it becomes a counteracting medium rather than an assistance (I have used Thomson's "Vine Manure," Clay's " Fertiliser," Bentley's " Vine Manure," and Wood and Sons' " Le Fruitier," but cannot say, candidly speaking which is really the best). I believe each has been beneficial. Future experiments may lead me to a more settled conclusion than I have arrived at thus far in practice. There is this, how- ever, to be said about the matter, which is that good Grapes have been grown without one kind or another in years past, and no doubt will be again with no more difficulty than has hitherto been ex- perienced. Planting Vines.— The best time to plant out Vines of the previous season's growth is just as they show signs of starting In the spring. This operation needs to be done carefully, first removing the soil and unravelling the roots, then spreading them out in a fan-like form on some of the finer portions of the soil, adding some more afterwards before covering over with the ordinary soil to a depth of 4 inches or 5 inches. After planting, a good watering with tepid water should be given and the soil made firm a few days later on. During the first year or two I advise that the surface of the border be kept level, so that the water can better penetrate to the roots. If it is the intention to plant a vinery for early forcing, then I advise starting the canes early the first season, and thereby inducing the A'ines as much as possible to break nearly in a spontaneous manner each season afterwards. Thorough ripening of the wood is most essential to early forcing, and a prolonged season must have that tendency. I advise, where possible, that young A'ines be planted at from 2 feet to 2 feet C inches apart, that every other cane be treated as a supernumerarr, and fruited more heavily the first few years until the others or per- manent Vines have become well established ; then the others can be dispensed with entirely if necessary. During the first season's growth after the young rods have reached the top of the roof and been stopped, the lateral growths should be allowed to come away freely and ramble about in their own fashion to encourage as much root action during the rest of the growing season as possible. Pruning Vines.— Those that are intended for more immediate fruiting should not be pruned back after the first season's growth nearly so much as those intended to form permanent Vines, but kept well in advance of them. The permanent ones may be pruned back to the lower part of the roof, the others left one-third of their full length. As the growths from the spurs of the per- manent Vines develop, those on the supers should be removed to make room for them, thus leaving 4 feet or 5 feet between each. Muscat of Alexandria ought always to have the latter distance, though many of us do not allow that space, I am bound to admit, There should be from 1 foot to 18 inches between each spur on either side ; the nearer the latter distance is approached the better for the fu- ture individual strength and ripening of each year's growth. I am a believer in the close spur-pruning of most Grapes; the best bunches are obtained close home. Exception must be made of such as Duke of Bucclench and Barbarossa, which fruit best on the long-spur system with a frequent re- newal of the rods. I see no objection to filling in a blank space on a rod by the lengthening of the growth from the spur next below it in the case of any variety. In training up young rods one of the greatest mistakes that is made is to provide more than are necessary, by which the growths cannot properly develop themselves, nor can they either mature their fruit or wood to perfection. Disbudding. — The proper performance of this work early in the growth of the Vine is absolutely necessary. The least promising and weakest shoots should be removed when no larger than Peas, leav- ing the two strongest a little longer to see which promises the best, and eventually removing the other. One shoot is ample to each spur ; two should only be left when a blank space has to be filled up at once. Only this year I saw some Vines with three and four shoots to each. I wondered what the Grapes would eventually be like when ripe, it ever they reached that stage, and my fingers longed to be at work to liberate the Vines of their super- fluous growth. If disbudding is not done early there is a strain put upon the Yine before its roots get into proper action that cannot but be detrimental and weakening in its effect at these early stages. Bunches failing to grow — Where early forcing is carried on, more particularly in the Lon- don locality, the bunches will at times when about half grown show a disposition to turn their points upwards, stop growing, turn yellow and finally die off altogether. To say the least, this is annoying and vexatious, especially after a good show that promised well has been obtained. I generally find this occurs after or during a severe time of foggy weather, when there is little sunshine. The best preventive, in my opinion, is an increase in the temperature and somewhat less atmospheric moisture. This will at least check it if not gone too far. Another gardener complained of the same failing to me only this last spring ; he could not understand it, but then it was his first year in this locality. This goes to confirm me that it is caused by the fog more than anything else. It is quite different from the bunches running off to tendrils, which can, however, be stopped by the same means as just advised. Stopping and tying.— Stopping the young growths from spurs should be regulated according to the room at disposal, in order to have the roof equally well covered all over when the foliage is fully developed, yet not so thickly as to prevent the circulation of air, or to impart too dense a shade beneath. Sometimes it is necessary to pinch out the point of the young growth at two joints be- yond the bunch ; at others it can be left to the third. I prefer the latter for all strong shoots, and the former for the more weakly ones. The best time for this operation is as soon as the point can be taken hold of comfortably without injury to the leaves below it. It should never be left till a knife has to be employed ; the object of early pinching is to concentrate more strength in the bunches before they come into flower. It will not make the bunches any larger, but there is the possibility of so strengthening the bunch as to avoid the oc- currence of small-sized berries among the larger ones. Lateral shoots from the spurs should be stopped and re-stopped at the first joints they make, and the leader also. In the case of Muscat of Alexandria and other white Grapes where extra light imparts more colour, the laterals may with advantage be removed entirely below and at the bunch, leaving them on as advised above it. When the fruit is fairly well advanced towards maturity, the lateral growths should not be stopped, but al- lowed to extend themselves. I believe an extension of growth, then, is an assistance to the A'ine, and a means by which the Grapes can be better preserved in a fresh condition. I take it to be a good sign Jan. 25, 1890.1 THE GARDEN. 91 in favour of a A'ine if it persists in making lateral growth when developing a good crop of Grapes. This should be an indication that it has not been over- weighted with fruit. Tying. — This is an operation that requires con- stant attention when the Vines are growing rapidly to prevent the leaves and shoots from being injured by coming into contact with the glass. With forced Vines it is necessary, for in cold weather the glass is below the temperature of the house. With Vines breaking naturally it prevents the points from being broken off shorter than desired. The young shoots should be brought down gradu- ally ; thus their safety is better ensured, for it is not pleasant to see a spur spoilt for the season by losing its first growth. Some kinds are more liable to break off in this manner than others, from the rapidity with which they grow when once fairly started. West's St. Peter's, Black Alicante, White Tokay and Gros Maroc are all very sensitive in this respect. I like to see the tying completed just before the Grapes are in flower. {To be continued.) GARDEN REFUSE. It is kind of " G. S. S." to give to ns gardeners scientific warning as to the fate which may befall our garden crops it we will persist in using decayed garden refuse as manure. I fear, however, that with a thousand such warnings offered we shall go on sinning against the light of scientific teaching, and even grumble that we have not half enough of the material to satisfy our necessities. I make it a rule to put by to decay for the purpose named everything which will decay within a reasonable time. On the other hand, everything which will not so prove useful is burnt. It may be that within the bulk, small as it is, of a heap of ashes there is considerable nutriment, but all the same I greatly prefer to have some few cartloads of the decayed refuse, half soil half manure, to put onto the ground in the winter and dig it in rather than a few barrowfuls of ashes. I am disposed to regard the warning against insect pests and fungoid spores as of an alarmist kind, not warranted by experience. After having used yearly every atom of such decayed refuse as I could get together on garden soil for the past thirty years, or even much longer, I am not disposed to conclude that there is any- thing to dread in the employment of it. I have used a big heap of it this season, but it is here chiefly employed for flowers, as with strong soil I find the greater degree of woody matter and fibre found in the semi-decayed refuse to be of greater service in keeping the soil light and porous than is the case when ordinary London manure is employed. This latter is also somewhat too strong in its action tor flowers. I have often found after soil has been well dressed with the vegetable refuse that after the year has elapsed and the ground is again dug it is f uU of the dressing, and in such case another crop of flowers of a diverse kind is taken off before another dressing is given. Garden refuse does admirably also for Potatoes, and specially good is it to fork in amongst fruit bushes and Raspberries. In some gardens the chief fertilising material is found in half-decayed leaves. That is perhaps a sweeter material than is the refuse of the garden, but the constituents cannot be greatly varied, whilst in garden refuse there is found in- finite variety. Weeds, of course, should not be thrown on to the heap to rot if seeding. If weeds have not got so far as the seeding stage they make capital manure when well decayed. It should ever be the aim of the gardener to utilise to the utmost every particle of matter which a garden produces. In the case of strong soils it is not at all essential that refuse should be rotten to bury as manure if it be short, but the refuse heap proper is the collec- tion of the waste products of the garden extending over a long period, and if the heap be kept turned, aerated, and sometimes dressed with soot, it forms a valuable compost. — A. D. This can undoubtedly be made good use of in keeping up the producing powers of ths soil, but I agree with " G. S. S." that it may also be a source of evil. The greater portion of the decaying vegetable matter that is collected in gardens there can be no harm in, but I should never think of putting on the rubbish heap anything that contained the germs of disease. Foliage infested with mildew above all things should never be rotted down. There is no doubt that the spores rest for an indefinite period, and they are probably as ready to respond to quickening influences after a rest of several years as when first formed. Millions of these spores may be con- signed to the rubbish heap in some years to be let free to work havoc when the decomposed matter is put on the ground. With respect to red spider, I am not sure whether the eggs retain their vitality for any length of time. I should rather thiiik that when their season comes they hatch, and the insects failing to find the necessary conditions of life die, but on this point " G. S. S." will be better informed than myself. The wisest plan is undoubtedly that which ensures the extermination of anything that possesses powers of mischief, and acting on this conviction I make a point of burning all kinds of foliage which may be suspected of harbouring this formidable pest. The Strawberry rarely escapes a visitation, and when old plants are ilestroyed they should not be suffered to lie about, as the insects quickly migrate from the sapless leaves to invade fresh pasture land. I have more than once seen the evil effects of allowing old infested foliage to he for a few days in the open. The stumps of allkinds of winter and summer green stuff are, I think, best disposed of by fire, and especially where clubbing occurs. It can be little short of folly to let these return again to the ground. It is probably in this way that many perpetuate violent attacks of club-root. Potato haulm is often cast on the rubbish heap, and this, all must admit, is one way of inviting the disease. As regards this esculent, I think that decomposed vegetable matter makes a fine manure for it. I have invariably found that where vege- table refuse had been freely used, the Potatoes grew very stroiiijly, and I advocate its use for early Kid- ney, and indeed for all kinds of early Potatoes. The heaviest crop of Ashleaf Kidneys that I have ever known to be grown was entirely in vegetable matter. The very free manner in which roots are made in such material is probably the cause of the more delicate early kinds being so much benefited by its use.-J.C.B. Condition of the soil.— In spite of the con- siderable rainfall of the winter so far, the soil is working so well that everybody seems engaged in getting in early Peas, Broad Beans, or sowing early seeds. There is too much reason to fear that the present delightful promise will not be long con- tinued, but the weather and the state of the soil are both phenomenal in the middle of January hav- ing regard to winterly traditions. The same kind of weather prevailed at this time last year, and yet we had a very dull cold spring. The remembrance of that should induce gardeners to reflect ere they commit seeds too readily to the soil. The value of stable manure which contains a considerable quantity of straw is amply demonstrated in the case of stiff or clay land, as when buried thickly during the winter it serves to keep the newly moved soil fairly open and porous, which advantage never can result from the use of artificial manures. The straw not only furnishes fibre, which, slow in decaying, provides food for plants for some time, but it acts as drainage also, and that is important. The burying of a good dressing of stable manure now whilst the soil is workable will prevent its becoming sodden should February prove exception- ally wet. Where there is no such material buried in the soil, there is reason to believe that later rain will cause it to run together and thus become unfit to be a seed bed. It is much better to bury the manure now than in the spring where possible, but of course there will be some breadths of soil which cannot be cleared earlier; for these the manure should be short and half decayed, as then it will all the more quickly become incorporated with the soil. —A. D. " The season.— Tt is only necessary to walk through our market gardens to realise what a wealth of green stuff there is for marketing in due course. There are a vigour and freshness about all green crops. Cabbages of all kinds. Kales, Broccoli, Onions, Spinach, &c., that cause them to be as promising in appearance as in the month of October. So far, then, there is a probability of a glut of green stuff, but much will depend upon the character of the weather during the next six weeks. It is possible that a time of great severity is in store for us, and should it be so, much of the green crops must go down before it, everything being so soft and tender. In the garden, winter Aconites, Snowdrops, Hepaticas, A'iolets, Primroses, Wallflowers, and others are in bloom; Crocuses, Hyacinths, Daffodils, and other early-flowering bulbs are through the soil and hastening on to the flowering period. The subject which should occupy the minds of gardeners is that of affording protec- tion should a time of keen frost come. A still frost, even it abnormally sharp, might not do a great deal of harm, but when cold cm i-ignortherly winds accompany it, it is then that damage is so serious. One mistrusts a mild, soft winter. It ap- pears to be capricious in its mood and leaves be- hind that sorrowful legacy to gardeners, a late and inclement spring. No gardener likes to see snow- flakes mingling with the blossoms of his Plums and Pears. In the country the fields are green with fresh verdure, the buds on the hedgerows are swelling into growth, and on all hands there are indications of an early spring. Vegetation has made such an energetic start, that though much of its early promise may be cut off, the advance can scarcely be stayed. — R. D. Nursery orders. — Those who order many things from nurserymen are sometimes astonished by these gentlemen taking their own view of what should be sent, and supplying what was not ordered. One has to take some care, therefore, in this respect in sending orders, or one may have the garden filled with exactly the stuff that is not required. A nurseryman's business should be to oblige his customers in every way, and it he has not the plants thev order, or cannot get them elsewhere, it is his business to tell them so. Some amateurs may not mind this sort of thing, it one plant is as good as another to them ; but when once a person discriminates and makes up his mind what he wants, and weeds out what he does not want, then it is a serious nuisance to have anybody take liberties with his orders. A minor nuisance of the same class is that nurserymen frequently send plants gratis to compensate for carriage, which in many cases one cannot find room for, even it anyone cared for them. Nurserymen generally are a very worthy class of men, and one is often glad ot their advice and help ; but the things we point out seem, we think, in want of revision on their part. Plants sent to compensate for carriage are generally bad stock. The best way for the nurseryman to adopt is to send good plants of what their customers want. Their assumption that, if they have not one thing another will do, is often very trying to those who expect to get what they write tor.— Field. Russian Violets not flowering.— I should be .-^o glad to know why some Russian 'S lolets have gone entirely to leaf, with scarcely a blossom, when some Neapolitan Violets planted at the same time aud treated in exactly the same way have been all ttao autumn, aud still are flowering profusely.— A. VV. FiTZWILLIAM. Woodlice eating Mushrooms.— Referring to Thk Garden, Jan. 18 (p 55), I notice you invariably recommend one remedy for woodlice. I had a house swarming with them. " I purchased some tree frogs, which very soon cleared the woodhce and small snails out, and I have had no trouble since. I have them also in a small Orchid house and they keep it free.— J . JH. Death of John Henderson.- We are informed nf tbe death of this American nm-seryD^an, who went out to America in 1866, and fettled in Flushing, N .1 . He had raised an extensive business, consisting largely of Rose growing, and was also an authorityon the same flower. Sir. John Henderson was born in London in 181.S, and received an early training in his f.ather s hrni of Messrs. E. G. Henderson and Sous, that fitted him tor the business which he afterwards carried on with such marked success. 92 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 25, 1890. WOODS AND Forests. THE GROWTH OF TREES. Everyone who knows anything about trees is familiar with the fact that although the heart of the tree is surrounded by the rings that are formed annually, the heart is not necessarily, nor indeed frequently, the centre of the bole, or, in other words, that while on one side the rings are so close that they can hardly be counted, they may on another side be a considerable distance apart. While this fact is patent to all, the cause of it is by no means universally understood. Perhaps the theory most generally accepted is that the widest rings are formed on the side of the tree facing the south, while there is another theory held by a few persons, viz., that the greatest enlargement will usually be found to- wards the east. There is still another class who assure us that the greatest extension will be found on the side where the tree has most room. Now, I would humbly venture to suggest that none of all these theories is correct, and that the widest rings will invariably be found on the side where the tree has made the most vigorous roots. This direction is determined not by any greater inherent vigour in certain roots when the tree was planted, but simply by the nature of the soil, the roots being most strongly developed towards the richest feeding ground. I saw this strikingly exemplified lately in a wood where a large number of old trees were lying as they had been blown down and cross-cut. These comprised both Firs and hard- wood trees. A Silver Fir which had been growing pretty close to the south boundary wall had a radius of 2 feet towards the north, the soil being rich and easily penetrated in that direction ; whereas on the south side towards the wall where the soil was hard and stony the roots had found little encouragement to extend, and the radius only measured 1 foot. Then in the case of a Beech that had been planted close to a road the strong roots and wide rin<»s were found on the opposite side from the road in a north-westerly direction. In the centre of the wood where the soil was similar all round, vigorous roots were found to have pushed equally on all sides, and in these trees the heart was always found to be the centre of the bole. It is a noticeable fact that the branches or limbs of trees have the wide rings always on the under side. This, I fancy, may be explained by the sap finding freer access in that direction, and perhaps the greater tension of the vessels on the upper side may have a constricting effect on them. Seeing that in slit-planting the roots are not spread out as in pit-planting, but are drawn in a particular direction, might it not be well to let that be facing the prevailing wind >. This would involve no extra expense, and where the soil is of the same character all round, the roots would naturally take the earliest and firmest hold LQ the direction given them. Let anyone plant a young tree, or if he prefers it sow a seed, and let the soil on one side be retentive clay or gravel, and the other side made up of rich friable loam into which the roots will freely penetrate. When he cuts down the tree after a given number of years, he will find that on the side on which the roots have been feeding in the fertile soil the tree will have laid on double the quantity of timber, measuring from the heart, that it has made on the barren side. If this is not conclusive proof that the soil has a good deal to do with the final shaping of the trunk, I do not know what would be accepted as such. j_ IMPROVEMENT OF PARK SCENERY. SuPFlciBNT attention is not directed to park plant ing with a view to render the landscape scenery picturesque and varied, when marginal masses, young plantations, clumps, or groups are being formed in new parks ; it is also necessary from time to time to fill up blanks in park plantations oc- casioned by high winds or the decay of trees, if a succession of healthy growing timber be desired throughout the countiy. Before selecting the sub- jects to form the principal masses, it is essential to have some knowledge of the trees most suitable to the various conditions of soil, geological formation, and climate. As a general rule, it is the safest and perhaps the wisest plan to plant the park belts, marginal masses, and the larger clumps and groups with those trees that are found to thrive best and to develop into the finest timber in the locality where the planting is intended to be carried out. Trees suitable for forming the principal masses in the park may be divided into two classes, thus : Oak, Elm, Lime, Horse and Sweet Chestnut trees for rich loam and clay soils and somewhat sheltered sites. Beech, Sycamore, Norway Maple, and Birch trees for thin, poor soils and in exposed sites. Among Conifers (though not strictly park trees), Silver Firs in variety, Douglas and Menzies Spruces, Finns austriaca, Laricio, Benthamiana, Jeffreyi, ponderosa, macrocarpa, and many other hardy and tall-growing varieties may be planted on the decli- vities of hills in groups amongst the marginal masses to give variety, contrast and shelter ; they can also be planted in groups to form a background to decidu- ous trees or prominent hills in the distance to break the hard, level sky outline. Thebest and at the same time most pleasing and picturesque effect in park planting can be produced by grouping in sweeping masses of different sizes and irregular shapes, by avoiding similarity in size and form of groups of each distinct kind of park tree, and by planting smaller groups of the newer and more beautiful varieties of each species in front of the common sorts, distributing these latter at wide and irregular distances apart from tree to tree, so as not to add a stiff and clump-like appearance to the larger masses. By a judicious arrangement of groups of ornamental trees and dwarf tree forms, they should exhibit a different outline to the eye on every side, and although they should be planted at wide distances apart to allow every tree suflicient room to develop its special features of habit and foliage to the fullest extent, yet these, when viewed at a distance, should blend into one group. Clumps of park trees are generally round or oval in shape, and mostly planted on prominent knolls. They should be composed of one distinct variety or species. Groups of dwarf trees may be advantageously used to soften down abrupt outlines of clumps. Mixed groups of fine-foliaged and flowering trees, of silvery and dark foliage, of rich autumn- tinted and the more quiet coloured, and the round- headed with the fastigiated forms, the weeping with the irregular or oblong forms, should be tastefully distributed throughout the park, advan- tage being taken of the undulating surface by planting the groups on the rising ground, leaving the hollows or valleys to form grassy glades. These latter may occasionally be broken when too great a breadth of Grass is visible by plant- ing groups of dwarf trees in the foreground. Thorns and other dwarf trees should also be planted near carriage drives, and on each side of sharp curves of park roads and drives in scattered groups of various sizes from a triplet to a score or more. These dwarf tree forms, when planted judiciously, give variety without abruptness and a more natural appearance generally to the planting. Single specimen trees of distinct and marked features should be planted on well-chosen spots, but care must be taken not to plant too many so as to give a speckled or chess-board-like appearance to the park. The leading features to be aimed at in park planting should be variety, with distinctiveness, and system of arrangement without formality. Conifers are only suited for park adornment at a distance from the mansion, on the sides of hills, or prominent high-lying outskirts ; when planted in the foreground or in the low-lying sites of parks, either in clumps, groups, single specimens, or to form avenues, they are altogether out of character with true English park landscape planting. The only exception to this rule is the Cedar of Lebanon, which maybe tolerated near a mansion, but even this only when the style of architecture is Elizabethan, Tudor, Jacobean, or of some other allied type. — F. ftuality of timber. — It is generally admitted that climate and soil exercise a very decided effect on the quality of timber. Thus the quality of Oak from one part of the country, and even from different plantations not far apart, often differs greatly. In some situations where the soil is poor or thin and the climate perhaps cold, the trees grow slowly and the quality of their timber corresponds, being short grained and hard ; while on good soil and under better conditions the growth is, as a rule, quicker and the wood larger in the fibre as well as stronger in some ways. A very general impression exists that slow-grown timber is the strongest, but this opinion does not, it is said, stand the test of experiment. It has been proved that fast-grown timber — Oak, at least — is the strongest, bearing the greatest degree of ten- sion, samples from favourable localities and deep good soils surpassing those from the north and elsewhere, where the soil and climate are both in- ferior and the growth slower. This is opposed to the popular notion in favour of slow growth, and may probably be disputed by some. It might be advanced with reason that one of the best of all woods, the Scotch Fir, deteriorates in the quality of its timber the farther south we find it, although it grows to a fine tree, the timber of the highlands equalling the best samples of red deal, and be- coming worthless almost in the south. Elongation of tree trunks. — A note on page 41 of The Garden states that "recent experi- ments tend to show that the popular notion that the trunks of trees elongate is entirely erroneous. Tacks were driven into the trunks of various trees and the distances between them accurately mea- sured. At the end of the season they were found to have neither increased nor decreased their distances." The experimenter, however, in expect- ing to learn anything by means of these tacks, appears to have entirely overlooked the patent ne- cessary result of any elongation which might be in process, namely, that as the elongation can only take place in one direction, it would carry with it all the tacks in the same trunk simultaneously without altering the distances between them. On the other hand, very convincing proof of the cor- rectness of the " popular notion" on this subject is given by that most amiable of naturalists, Charles Waterton, in bis delightful " Essays on Natural History," in which he records the circumstance of a Hazel nut having chanced to fall through the central aperture in a prostrate mill-stone which had long lain neglected in the grounds at Walton Hall. This nut germinated and produced a tree, which, as it grew, filled the aperture tightly, and in the course of time actually lifted the mill-stone to a considerable distance from the ground. A full-page illustration of the tree and the mill-stone in this condition accompanies the test. When the trunk of a tree has attained its full growth, any further elongation of the trnnk is, of course, impossible — William Miller. "The Garden" Monthly 'Pa.ita.— This joui-nal is pvbtished in v^oUy bovnd Monthly Parts. In this Jbmi the coloured plates are best preserved, and it is most suitable for reference previovs to the issue of the half-yearly voluvies. Price Is. 6d. ; post free, Is. 9d. Coviplete set of roUtmes of The Garden /ro»i itscomnicnctment to end of 1889, thirty-six vols., price, cloth, £27 ; iclwle calf, £Z^: half morocco, £Z'i is. "Hardy Flowers." — Giving descriptions of npuards of thirteen hundred of the most ornamental species, with directions for their arrangement, culture, d'C. Fourth and Popular Bdition, Is. ; post free, \s. Zd. " Farm and Home " Monthly Parts. — This journalis publishid in neatly bound Monthly Parts, in vhtch form it is most st'itable for rcfennce precious to the issue of the yearly volumes. Price bd. ; post free, 8rf. " The Garden Annual " for 1890. — Contaitis Alphabetical Lists of all Branches of the Horticultural Trade corrected up to A^ovcmber 10 last. The Lists o} Gardens and Country Seats (containing over 8000)have been vejy carefully and extensively revised, and are admitted to be the most complete ever published. Price \s.; by post, Is. 3d. London : 37, Southampton Street, Strand, W.C. THE GARDEN. 93 No. 950. 8 A TURD A Y, Feb. 7, 1890. Vol. XXXVII. " This Is an Art Which does mend Nature : change It rather ; but The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare. Fruit Garden. CHOICE PEAES FOR PROFIT. Nevee perhaps within my memory have choice Pears beeu so scarce in January as they are at the present time. Fruit in some gardens was fairly plentiful in 1889, but in nine-tenths of the fair averaj^e orchards Pears were very scarce or a perfect lailure, and although the autumn was good they ripened altngether out of season. Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, and Beurr^ Ranee with us commenced ripening in November ; Knight's Monarch, the true and best variety, was fit for use early in December ; and Bergamotte d'Esperen, accredited to March, just carried us over Christmas. This prema- turity combined with scarcity having left our fruit rooms empty, Pears just now are very dear, so dear indeed that I am tempted to re- peat the opinion that Pears under glass and upon cheap boarded walls may be made to pay (juite as well, if not better than Peaches. But why this prematurity, and where the profit if they will not keep, especially after a fairly good season, not one degree too hot for the pro- duction of average size and full flavour > The Pears of 1889 were the produce of imperfectly ripened trees, which, as a rule, did not receive half enough water through July and August, and this want of liquid food, I venture to think, may have checked the growth and hastened maturity. Heat and light are important factors, but root moisture must be abundantly supplied, especially to trees on the Quince stock, and this being in proportion, not only will the fruit be large, but the check which has forced our best late Pears some two to three months in advance of their season will be avoided. The rainfall this winter having been light, large trees against south and west walls should be taken in hand forthwith, and the subsoil being found dry the surface should be pointed up, well mulched, and heavily watered with diluted liquid, soapsuds, sewage, or, lacking these stimulants, with pond water. They will then produce fine and perfect flowers, and, the spring being favourable, they will set plenty of fruit, whilst drought, the most frequent cause of sterility, may prevent them from contributing their quota to the fruit room next autumn. Mulching and watering, as a matter of course, must be followed up throughout the summer, and the set being good the fruit must be well thinned, as Pears below medium size rarely attain their proper flavour. Pyramids and bushes being fully exposed, not only to rain from all points of the compass, but also to light and fresh air, do not so often sutler from drought ; hence their fertility and the high flavour of the fruit, especially when it puts on a rich russety appearance. These may not re- quire water, but early mulching will be highly beneficial, and when this has been done for existing trees attention should be given to the planting of Quince stock cordons. If bare spaces on brick walls exist they should be filled up, or, lacking these, the cream of the latest varie- ties may be grown against boarded screens, which can be set up quickly and cheaply. If timber of home growth is plentiful, this may be used, but those who have to buy can procure imported Spruce boards three-quarters of an inch in thickness at Ss. per square, and this in the long run will be found most economical, as it costs but little in labour, stands the sun, and lasts many years if washed with a mixture of quicklime, Venetian red, and linseed oil when the trees are unnailed in the winter. These walls should be 6 feet in height and well capped, and if facing south or west, the trees, a foot apart, trained in an oblique position, should include dozens or scores of a few of the best sorts which ripen from December onwards. Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, Glou Morceau, Bergamotte d'Esperen, Easter Beurr6, Olivier des Serres, Knight's Monarch, and Nou- velle Fulvie are grand winter Pears, and may be duplicated to any extent where the soil and climate are likely to suit them. By way of a supplementary string to the bow, I should like to see cordon Pears under glass receiving the general and careful attention now devoted to late Peaches and Nectarines. Houses of the plainest character, provided they be large, light, and airy, will answer the purpose. The roof lights should be portable, and if furnished with a flow and return pipe the setting of the fruit would be ensured, as the petals of the flowers could be kept dry in damp, dark, or foggy weather. Well managed pot trees give good crops of fine fruit, but the cheapest and best mode of culture consists in planting out in raised, narrow, well-drained borders. W. C. Shading Gros Colman Vine. — I have a plant of this growing in a Muscat house, but until last year the berries never coloured satisfactorily. The treatment last year was the same as that adopted in former years, with the exception that I covered the three rows of glass panes over the Vine with whitewash. This shaded the bottom leaves of the laterals, which I always noticed gave way first. Tha result has been that ttie Vine has matured twenty-four bunches of faultless colour. The leaves kept green the whole summer, turning yel- low at the same time as those of other Vines. The wood is well ripened and the eyes plump for an- other year's work. I can see no bad effect from the Vine being so heavily shaded. — T. Stbatton, Balme(Ue,Aherdeen. Apple Hargil. — This highly flavoured, hardy and richly coloured Apple, I think, does not occupy the place in gardens which it deserves. It may be termed a small-sized Ribston Pippin, but its fruit- ing qualities and freedom from canker or other disease render it a valuable kind. It is very suit- able for dessert, as large sorts are often objected to. I remember a tree at Fulham (more than a quarter of a century ago in the private garden of the late Mr. Thomas Osborn) which bore heavy crops of fruit every year of the finest quality. I have several trees planted against an old wall with a north-west aspect, and they bear heavy crops every year. Two years ago a fruit had been missed when gathering the crop, and at the end of the year it was found quite sound and as yellow as gold. — M. Temple, Carron House. Apple Al&iston. — I consider this one of the ! best late keeping Apples. More than twenty years ! ago I grew it in Norfolk, and I was so well satisfied with its fertility and general good qualities, that when I moved into the midlands I at once planted it with similar results, and I should certainly place it among the best dozen. It is usually classed as a cooking Apple, but when March comes and good Apples are scarce, selected specimens come in well enough for dessert. As I remember it in Norfolk it had less colour than I have had in it since, but soil and situation make a difference. It forms a nice garden tree on the Paradise. — E. H. Pear I'Inconnue. — I regard this as one of the very best late Pears. The tree is a moderate grower, forms a good pyramid on the Quince stock, and is a great bearer, so much so that the fruit generally requires to be well thinned if a crop every year is to be expected. It is always superior with me to Benrrfi Ranee or Easter Beurr6. I planted the tree here as a pyramid in 1858. — John Gabland, Killertan, Exeter, Late Fears. — Mr. Crump, in a short note in The Garden (p. 71), says now would be a good time for growers of late Pears to settle the vital question as to the best late kinds, and adds that his crop last year was almost nil, and that Pears of all kinds this season have ripened much earlier than usual. These two statements seem to prove that the present is a bad time instead of a good one, to go much into the question, as his case is not singular, the Pear crop being scant in most places last year. Not only was it so with us, but I never had the fruit so poor- looking and spotted, taking it all through, for though we had some sorts fair and a few good specimens of others, the sample was greatly inferior to what we usually have. The late kinds have been the worst, thus proving that they require a fine warm summer and autumn, especially the latter, unless the trees are exceptionally fav- oured as to position and aspect. Our favourites for use now have always been Josephine de Malines and Bergamotte d'Esperen, but numbers of these latter are so spotted as to render them quite unfit for use for dessert. The fact is, this Pear requires a sunny wall to have it really good, but Josephine de Malines succeeds as a pyramid.— J. Sheppabd, 'Woohersione. Phylloxera and tank borders.— 'With regard to this I simply wrote that which from practical experience and close observation I believed to be correct in support of previous articles I had written, the accuracy of which had been called in question by " A. W. N." I still most firmly believe that the tank system for cultivating Vines in this country with annual submersion for ninety-six hours dur- ing the period the Vines are comparatively at rest is the surest and most inexpensive safeguard against the attacks of this pest. For these reasons I made two suggestions that this method should be thoroughly tested by others as well as myself, and I still trust not a few, but many, will be induced to do so. In the meantime I am quite willing to attempt to prove to Mr. Ward the efficacy of sub- mersion during the period the Vines are at rest by planting an affected Vine in the tank border if he will supply me with one. The only stiptdations I will make are that a disinterested and thoroughly com- petent person be appointed to examine the roots after the tap has been turned on for ninety-six hours ; also that it be not delayed till such time as the insects are on the move, but while they are, as Mr. Ward says, hybemating. — T. Challis. Horello Cherries. — I have never found any- thing succeed so well on a wall facing north as Morello Cherries, provided the border has been adapted to their requirements. Most of these bor- ders have a tendency to wetness, as less evapora- tion takes place there than in more favoured situa- tions. Besides, north borders, as a rule, are not so often dug or trenched as others, and their liability to become soured is thereby fostered. Digging and trenching the ground favour the escape of moisture and render the soil more fertile by the free access of air. 1 have obtained very beneficial results from the trenching of tenacious loam rest- ing on shinglej when the drainage became defec- tive. It is with a north border consisting of this tenacious loam that I wish now to speak, and to show how a soured and comparatively speaking barren piece of soil was made fruitful. Two feet of the surface soil of this border was resting on a bed of impervious clay, and as no provision had been made to drain off the superfluous moisture, the whole had become .1 sodden mass of inert matter. In order to render it a suitable medium for Morello Cherries to grow in, I took out the soil at one end (3| feet deep, across its width, and 9 feet in length), giving the bottom a fall from the wall, with a drain sunk 6 inches deeper along the front. A foot depth of stones was then placed over the bottom and on this a layer of turf, Grass side downwards. As the drainage was then considered complete, another 9 feet of the length of the border was measured off and about 2 feet of the surface soil thrown back on the turves, while the remaining 18 94 THE GARDEN [Feb. 1, 1890. inches of clay was wheeled away. Then followed stones and tnrves again, and in this manner half the length of the border was treated, a quantity of lime rubbish, road scrapings, and refuse from the fire heap being added to the soil and well mixed with it. I then planted Morello Cherries to cover the wall and Gooseberries to come in for late dessert to fiU the border. Both have done remarkably well, and prove conclusively that large crops of these fruits are obtainable from north walls and borders when provision is made by drainage to allow the excessive moisture to escape.— R. C. H. MR. HIBBERD LOSES HIS TEMPER. In his last issue Mr. Hibberd hisses out some ill- muttered spite because I did not insert a letter of his in The Garden that appeared in the Times. One might think the vastly larger pulpit of the "Thunderer" would have satis- fied him, but he hankers after that of The Garden too. A strange fancy of his to be seen in that once venturesome sheet. I forget the ele- gant extracts about the early fate of TheGarden, and do not care to dig them up. I remember our coloured plates were a sign of the last gasp for life. I wa.s afraid to publish his damaging letter, he thinks. I have.some women's horror of a mouse, but no fear of Mr. Hibberd, even when hanging bricks on a fruit tree to make it bear fruit as well as bricks ! What he sent to the Times to cover my attack did not go in The Garden because it did not seem to demand either space or rej)ly. I said, and have nothing to say, about Mr. Hibberd's sprig of gentility, and the spectacle of Mr. Hibberd's demon clutch at my small plant of the same kind, because I do not agree with him about the Ribston, should charm the heart of a comic editor in quest of a really funny thing. Below is the document whose absence from The Garden he deplores : — In it he says that he did not write to the Times to say " the Newtown was more often met with of fine home growth. " The statement is, of course, nonsense, and the denial that he made it in the Times is untrue, as we simply copied it from that paper. Also he says here that the King of the Pippins is "tender and digestible "I [It is the most astringent and ill- flavoured Apple in all the lists], and that the Ribston "at its best is hard and indigestible." Now when a man says these things about fruits, the quality of which is so well known to many men in markets and out of them, it is time to stop arguing with him, for such arrant non- sense has never before been published on well- known English fruits. To the Editor of the " Times." Sir, — The editor of The Garden, in his second letter, makes an approach to acceptance of my modi- fications of his propositions. It is with market Apples and the public taste in the selection of them that we are concerned, not with individual tastes and fancies. He has faith in the public taste, but de- nounces as of "very poor quality " an Apple, known as King of the Pippins, that happens to be one of the greatest favourites, with more money in it pro- bably than any other Apple in cultivation. I would sooner trust his taste in selecting fruits than in framing arguments, but we are not far separated and may find it possible to agree in time for some more useful work than disputation. I will follow the example set me and take the points in order :— (1.) Newtown Pippin I have not described as " often met with of fine quality of home growth." I said it was "more often met with of fine growth" than Gravenstein, but that it might be " disposed of as one of the curiosities of the fruit garden." The imported fruit is of such fine quality that it would never pay to grow it here for market, for the tree is slow in bearing and requires, even in good Apple climates, the aid of a wall. The negative declara- tion that is hazarded displays greater courage than reason. I consign that also to the region of curio- sities. (2.) King of the Pippins is not described by me as " an Apple of fine flavour," but I have quoted Dr. Hogg, whose testimony the editorof The Garden re- jects. 1 protest that if the public judgment issnificient for determining the merits of market Apples, then King of the Pippins must be one of the best, for there is no Apple of its season that sells so well or pays the grower better. The thing that sells is of some importance when we cater for the markets. I accept the verdict of the public and also the logi- cal consequence as regards this Apple, for it looks well, eats well, is tender and digestible, and the tree bears well and will grow in almost any soil. The editor of The Garden may attempt to vindi- cate the public taste by depreciating the Apple it loves, but I prefer the rational way and care more for facts than for fancies. (3.) The writer admits that Blenheim is slow to bear, and that Ribston is liable to canker. For the purposes of this discussion that is sufficient, for disputants rarely admit all that is urged against them. Men who plant their own land and can afford to wait may do well to plant this fruit on soil that suits it, and I again speak of it as " the noble Blenheim." It is none the less noble that for a market gardener of only moderate means to plant it largely on another man's land would be to pledge himself to ruin ; and this market grower of mode- rate means is a person of some importance in the present discussion. What Covent Garden can con- sume is but one part of the question ; we wish the men to live who supply the market ; for it is on the commercial foundation we are endeavouring to build in our advocacy of extended fruit culture. The editor of The Garden believes theRibston will bedelivered from liability to canker, and is himself experiment- ing in the hope of making useful discoveries. But all this has nothing to do with the question before us, for we are tied to the facts, and it would be a con- donement of his peculiar reasoning if he would candid!)/ o/rn that the Jtihstun, like the Ke7rtun7i, Pippin, is one of the curiosities of the fruit i/arden. I quite agree with him that " the fate of the Kibston is by no means hopeless," but what a commentary is that on his assertion that the Ribston is one of the few " very best " English Apples that " should be grown " for the supply of the market 1 The taste of the child that is brought forward is simply childish ; more so than the public taste that may be relied on because it approves an Apple that is " very poor in flavour." There are times when children, well cared for in respect of all their dieting, will eat any Apple they can get hold of, and there are times when they are a bit fastidious and prefer good to bad Apples. The market grower who is about to plant will trust his own Judgment before that of all the chiklren in the world. Now permit me the preacher's privilege to say "lastly." It appears to be agreed that Cox's Orange is of the greatest importance for the supply of the market and for a place in the domestic garden. It may lie grown as a standard or a dwarf on the Paradise stock with advantage where- ever the circumstances are favourable to the pro- duction of first-class Apples. The Ribston is so uncertain that it would be most unwise for anyone to speculate in it largely when Cox's may be relied upon to keep in health and bear abundantly. Ribston ripens slowly, and ai its best is hard and indigestible, though of the finest flavour. Like the " noble Blenheim," it is superb when cooked. Cox's Orange is best from dwarf trees ; Ribston is best from trees on Doucin stock, trained as espalier, and in cold climates it is worthy of a wall. Blenheim is fastidious in respect of atmosphere as well as soil. On heavy land near London it rarely attains to fine quality either without or within, having little colour and a poor flavour. In its home and all around Oxford it is grand ; it is even more grand in some gardens in Hampshire, and has actually been named Beauty of Hants on account of the splendour of samples grown in that county in gardens near the sea. Another Blenheim district is in the neighbourhood of Reading, where it attains its largest size and finest quality on trees that from the day they were planted to this hour have scarcely been touched by the pruning knife. — Shirley Hibberd, Aem, January 7. The italics are mine. The whole corre- spondence arose tlirough someone who knew little of the good Apples writing in praise of the Gravenstein. I wrote reminding people of the far greater merit and value of what I call the great English Apples, beat among them the Blenheim. Mr. Hibberd wrote warning people against planting it — not really because of the Blenheim, but to satisfy his craving for a thrust at me. But he is not a guarded fighter, and the chief interest of the letter above quoted is this, that in it he shows how wrong he himself was to try to do harm to the repute of the best Apple grown in England. In the Times he said I was "unhappy in my choice " of the Blenheim, and then forgetting, shows now in how many districts it grows well and profitably. After these letters appeared I spoke to Mr. Webber, who certainly knows the market side of the Apple question as well as anyone, about Messrs. Hibberd and Wright's denunciation of the Blen- heim. It is, he says, "the last Apple to de- serve it." The one fault it has, slowness of bearing, is our own fault. An Apple of finest vigour we graft on the Crab, a tree itself of great vigour, and the two together grow wilder than young forest trees. A group of a dozen Blenheims planted four years ago are now like Sallows in a rich wood after being cut down, while every other Apple has done something to form a head that looks like a young fruit tree. But we are not compelled to graft the Blen- heim on the Crab. There are several alter- natives, and it is worthy the skill of our fruit growers to find out some quicker way with it, — W. R. SNOWDROP NAMES. To THE Editor of The Garden. Sir, — I am sorry to difl'er from Mr. T. Smith, of Newry, to whom my garden and I are indebted for many acquisitions in the past, and to whom we hope to be indebted for many more in the future. But I do think he has pressed rather hardly on a certain Italian firm which has rather ruffled him. I know nothing of them in any way beyond constant dealings with them about plants and bulbs, and I am ready to declare that my impression about their proceedings does not at all accord with that of Mr. Smith. I do not say they are infallible, but is there an infallible nurseryman on the face of the earth ? I am only quite convinced for several reasons that could be given that they are perfectly honest, and they have put plants and bulbs into my hands which I had never heard of elsewhere, and for which I cannot thank them sufficiently. Last year I procured from my San Giovanni k Teduccio friends the three decidedly most interesting things that I got at all, besides a crowd of others which were all of them good. Leucojum toseum is, to my mind, one of the loveliest, if not quite the loveliest bulb in my garden. I remember coming across it in the border quite unexpectedly on afine July morning, and I admired it more than all the gay flowers with which it was surrounded. Iris stylosa speciosa and Iris alata speciosa speak for them- selves, and they are in the first rank of beauty. Many other plants and bulbs which are of secondary importance when compared with these I could name without difficulty. We must speak of things as we find them, and I Feb. 1, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 95 seem to have been very fortunate where Mr. Smith has been unfortunate. As my pen is in my hand, I may just say that my garden is tending to destruction if we are to have sharp weather in spring-time. Over one hundred difi'erent plants and bulbs are in full blossom already, and such a portent as Narcissus maximus in flower before the close of January was never heard of before. iS(. Jo/in's, Rijile. H. Ewb4nk. NOTES OF THE WEEK, Crocuses at Clifton. — The following is a list of ten species of Crocus which are in blossom here to-day : C. aureus, C. banaticus, C. chrysanthus, C. corsicus, C. Iniperati, C. minimus, C. pusillus, C. Olivieri, C. Sieberi, C. ausianus.— G. H. Wollaston. The earliest Narcissus. — Here is my tir&t out- door Narcissus ( Ajax minimus). Last night's frost and the heavy storms and gales do not seem to have in- jured it. Crocus minimus is very lovely just now. — A. KiNGSMiLL, Stanmore. Cymbidium Lowrianum is represented in The Dell collection by a magnificent specimen carrying twentv-eight spites, which have on an averasre thirty- three Imds. When in full bloom this Cymbidium is exceptionally striking, as it is a remarkably fine form, the flowers large, and with the lip of an unusually deep crimson colour. Helleborus niger ruber is a fine variety of the common Christmas Rose and in full beauty just now in Mr. T. S. Ware's nursery, Tottenham, and in the Royal Gardens, Kew. The plants are very free and the flowers of good size, white, with the outer surface of the segments and the buds of a rich rose colour. Large clumps in the garden are bright and handsome at this season. Eranthemum nervosum makes a bright group in the stove at Kew, and also in Messrs. H. Low and Co.'s nursery at Upper Clapton. The Erantheraums are a useful and easily-grown class of stove plants far too little seen, and E. nervosum is one of the best. The flowers are of the deepest blue colour, made more in- tense I'y the rich deep green leaves. Odontoglossum ■Wilekeanum. — A plant of this beautiful New Grenada Odontoglossum, of the luteo-purpureum type, is bearing a strong spike of its finely-formed flowers in the garden of Mr. G. C. Raphael, Castle Hill, Englefield Green, Egham. The flowers are pale yellow in colour, boldly blotched with light brown, the crest deep yellow. It is named after Herr Wiloke, gardener to M. D. Massage, Marche, Belgium, by whom it was fir'^t flowered. Dapline Mezereum is a common shrub in the humble garden of the cottager, and bushes of it were wreathed in bloom the other day in Egham village. We might search many large gardens, however, with- out finding it. Large plants of it, with the leafless branches studded with fragrant bloom, have a peculiar charm in midwinter, and there are pink, white, and double-flowered forms besides the common type. It will grow in ordinary soil, and loves full exposure to the sun. Cypripedium Harrisianum superbum is a noble variety and we have never .seen it finer than in The Dell collection at Egham, where several plants are now in bloom . The flowers are of the richest colour, shining as if varnished, and beautifully coloured with glossy purple, especially on the dorsal sepal which measures almost -4 inches acro.ss. It is one of the most handsome of the Lady's Slippers, in spite of the addi- tion of new hybrids almost every month. Odontoglossum Harryanum. — I send part of a spike of Odontoglossum Harryanum to show how widely open its flowers are when grown cool. Last year this plant flowered in a moist intermediate house, and the variety seemed so worthless that it was de- termined to grow it in a cool and drier atmosphere, with the result you see. The flowers have opened widely this year and coloured well. Last year the petals never expanded and the colour was nearly green. — Edwakd H. Woodall. Hsemantbug magnificus is worth a note now in the stove at Kew, where \vitb H. natalensis it is in full flower. The strong scape bears a large brush-like head of the deepest crimson filaments tipped with gold-yellow anthers, a brilliant and vivid contrast of two striking colours. The " Blood-flowers," as they ar« usually called, are strange, and in their way useful, the sturdy scapes appearing without leaves and giving bright colour to the stove during the winter. H. mag- nificus conies from South Africa. Varieties of Coelogyne cristata are now very beautiful in The Dell collection, all the varieties being represented. Of the Chatswortb form there is a speci- men several feet across, and one mass of white, a lovely sight reminding us of the huge plant that was formerly in thi^ collection of Mr. Lee at Downside, Leatherhead. Lemoniana, which has tpale lemon in place of the rich yellow of the other ; maxima, so named from its larger flower ; and alba, pure white, are all in bloom. rranciscea calycina major is a handsome stove plant that, amongst others, has suffered from the increase in Orchid cultivation. It has in many good gardens long since been discarded, but was just opening its flowers in the stove at The Dell, Egham. The plant is in superb health, and in a few days will be covered with a mass of violet flowers, which are of various shades, becoming lighter with age, the rich background of foliage bringing out the delicate colour in its fullness. Toxicophlsea Thunbergi.— Seeing in a recent number that Toxicophhoa Thunbergi is considered lees free-blooming and desirable than T. spectabilis, I send you a shoot from a big bush now in full flower (» show how very free-bloomiug and handsome a shrub it is when grown in a sunny airy house, and well rested in a cold house after completion of growth in August. — E. H. Woodall. *»* A beautiful and fragrant thing. — Ed. The double white Camellia at The Dell, Eg- ham, is smothered with buds, which promise a fine show of bloom later on. It is upwards of 20 feet in width and nearly as much in height, the growth and foliage in such health as is not often seen in the open air. A large temporary glass erection is placed over it, fitted with hot-water pipes, so that the great display of bloom may not suffer when severe frosts occur. The covering is re- moved in spring and the plant left to itself nntil winter again returns. Apple Blenheim Orange from Scotland. — We sent the Blenheim fruits to let you see that even in the north of Scotland it is quite possible to grow Apples which wotdd bear comparison with the best imported fruit. Those Apples are from trees about fifty years old, growing on the garden wall at Meldrum House, Old Meldrum, Aberdeenshire. The trees are very healthy and clean and bear heavy crops every year. We exhibited a dish of the same fruit at the Scottish Horticultural Society's meeting, at which Mr. Barron, the gardener, was awarded a cultural certificate.— DiCKSONS & Co., 1, Waterloo Place, A'dinhnrffli. *,* A'ery beautiful fruit. — Ed. The display of Laelia anceps in The Dell, Egham, has been of unusual splendour this season, Mr. Ballantine estimating that at one time there were nearly 200 spikes in full beauty, and these of the finest varieties known to us. Even now there is a good show from the type to the late-blooming Veitchi, which although not equal to such noble varieties as Stella in size of flower, is very distinct in its violet markings on the front and side lobes of the lip. L. a. Sanderiana was showing a wealth of its splendidly formed flowers, massive, and of the purest white, except for the lip, which is rich purple-rose in the front lobe, the base yellow, and the iimer face of the side lobes barred vrith deep lake. Stella is purer, having Just a tinge of rose- purple on the lip, and one of the loveliest of all, though not surpassing L. a. Schroederiana, recently certificated by the Royal Horticultural Society. JSpikes of the finest form of L. anceps, which carry flowers almost twice the size of those of the old type, are of charming grace both on the plant and when cut. The new rockery at The Dell, Egham, now approaching completion, will be one of the finest in England, and give ample scope for the planting of a large and rare collection of alpines and other hardy things. Pulham's artificial stone has been used to a considerable extent, and deep "pockets" secured, with here and there a pool of water for the growth of aquatics and moisture- loving plants. Rhododendrons, which flourish here with that perfection seldom attained except in such favoured spots, make a rich background, with finely variegated Hollies at intervals. All tree stnmps that disfigure such interesting rockeries as thatof the Royal Gardens, Kew,have been rigorously excluded. They harbour insects, breed fnngi, and in a few years decay, creating disease and turning the rockery into the likeness of the half-rotten rooteries that are a blot to many good gardens. The beautiful climate and exceptional soil at Eg- ham should produce a rich growth of hardy plants, as it has of Conifers, and make The Dell as famous for its outdoor attractions as for its Orchids. Orchids from Minchinhampton. — I send you two blooms from a spike of Odontoglossum sceptrum, which has been in flower for the past month. It is a good cool house Orchid and most beautifully marked. The spray of Epidendrum cochleatum has been in full beauty for the last four months. It is both pretty and also curious, and I may say a nearly perpetual bloomer if kept in an intermediate house with good drainage and plenty of moisture at its roots and over its foliage, but so that the flowers are not wetted. — J. F. Wilkinson, The Gardens, Highlands, Minchin- hamjitmt. Idoth Orchids at Egham.— The Phalsenopsids in the collection of Baron Schroeder at The Dell, Egham, are blooming freely, and represent a rare series of types, amongst them a remarkably fine form of P. grandiflora aurea, the flowers massive in form, broad, rounded, and of the purest white, ex- cept for the deep yellow colouring on the anterior part and lateral lobes of the lip. P. Schilleriana and several varieties, some beautiful and distinctly spotted, with bolder and larger flowers than usual, were in great beauty ; also Sanderiana alba, in which there is scarcely any trace of colour, the bloom of the purest white. P. amabilis was of course in flower. Flowers at Scilly. — A local paper, dated Jan. 23, reports that about 260 packages of flowers were despached from Scilly January 14, and over 300 Jan. 16. The plants in bloom on the islands Jan. 10 were: N. Soleil d'Or, N. Scilly White, N. gloriosus, N. Grand Monarque, N. Paper-white, N. Telamonius plenus, N. obvallaris, N. Ard-Righ (or Irish King), Arum Lily, Christmas Roses, Anemone f ulgens, Roman Hyacinths, Anemone coronaria, Wall- flowers, and Marguerites (white and yellow). The prospect of the Narcissi crop is most encouraging. The blooming season has never been so early since Narcissi have been grown in the islands. Several packages were sent off by the middle of December. Strobilanthesisophyllus.— Asmall group of this stove plant was recently in bloom at Kew, and though one of the best of the genus, it is unknown to many. The genus to which it belongs is large, containing about 180 species, spread over a wide area, but occurring most frequently in the East Indies. S. isophyllus is pretty when the plant is in a 5-inch pot and in full bloom, the flowers of a lavender colour and the leaves deep green. It is also knownasGoldfussiaisophyUa. Its culture is easy and a light soil will suflice, while plants can be readily raised from cuttings, which may be struck in a hand-glass placed in the stove or propagating house. Our stoves often want variety at this season, and here is a plant that may be used with advantage. Hyacinthus azureus is one of the prettiest hardy flowers of January, and will stand hard frost with impunity, the small, conical, dense heads of campanulate sky-blue flowers only suffering from a heavy snowfall which is apt to break them. When this is anticipated, cover the clump with a hand- light, as for the varieties of netted Iris. This winter gem was introduced by Kotschy in 1836 from the Vienna Botanic Gardens, and as yet remains comparatively scarce in gardens. It has the habit and appearance of a Muscari, but the flowers are of the distinct bell shape characteristic of those of the Hyacinth ; hence, it has been classed by Mr. Baker in this group and called Hyacinthus azureus, though often labelled Muscari azureum. It grows but a few inches in height, and a vigorous clump clustering at the foot of a wall is in mid-January, when its sky-blue flowers are in fullest beauty, a 96 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 1, 1890. perfect picture. Plant the bnlbs also in nooks on the rockery and in clumps on the border. A coloured plate of this appeared in The Gabden, Aug. 10, 1889. Chinese Primulas from Chelsea.— We have recently received a number of flowers of various kinds of Chinese Primula from Mr. Bull, and amongst them some of unusual beauty, showing a stiU greater advance in this winter flower. Fulgens is bright red, a fine telling colour; Im- perial Blue, as near to blue as any of the other so- caUed blue varieties ; elegantissima, the flower large and well marked ; and mutabilis, which has large, well-formed flowers, shaded with rich ma- genta colour. All are single varieties. The Aniseed Tree (lUioium floridanum), a coloured plate of which was published in The Gar- den, August 17, 1880, is in flower in the economic house at Kew. There are five species of lllicium, one hailing from America, the others from India, Japan, and China, and of the five, the only one worth growing for its characteristic beauty is flori- danum, which, as its name suggests, is a native of Florida. Although introduced as far back as 1770, it is still rare in collections. It makes a com- pact shrub with shining green leaves, which when rubbed give out a pleasant aromatic fragrance. The deep crimson flowers, which are produced from the axils of the leaves, are made up of about thirty twisted petals. It requires a warm greenhouse, though I. anisatum survives the winter against a wall in the same gardens. Ranunculus anemonoides. — This charming dwarf alpine Crowfoot is one of the most useful of early spring flowers for the cold house. It is perfectly hardy, and in sheltered spots on the rockery flowers early in February, though usually towards the end. As a pot plant, however, and grown in a cold frame, nothing could be more beautiful, the flowers being produced in profusion, the finely-cut Anemone-like foliage, of a pretty glaucous tint, just opening as the blossoms expand. The buds are always of a lovely rose colour, becom- ing paler and often tinged with purple when fully expanded. In good free soil on the open rockery this plant succeeds well, but it does not like being disturbed, and should be left to take care of itself when fairly established. A little lime in the soil will be an improvement. — K. The alpine house at Kew is very bright at present, and seems of no little interest to lovers of hardy flowers. The Christmas Roses have been flowering here since the middle of November, and now these have been reinforced with the Lenten Roses of the orientalis group. Variable in colour, profuse, and always to be relied upon, these latter prove of the utmost value for work of this kind. Also in flower are Croci of various species, such as C. aureus, chrysanthus, bannaticus, Tommasi- nianus, obovatus, versicolor, Imperati, and many others, Hepaticas in various colours, blue of different tints, pink, single and double, and white. A very curious variety is one called variabilis, with blue, pale blue, and white flowers from the same root ; it is one of the freest flowering varieties and also one of the earliest. Narcissus minimus, nivalis, Bulbocodium,Saxifraga luteo-purpurea and Bnrseriana, Snowdrops, Primulas, and many other spring flowers go to make up a very interesting show. Clivia miniata superba. — Flowers of this received from Mr. E. H. Woodall remind us of the great improvement this race has undergone during the past ten years. Continental and English growers have both striven to increase the beauty of the flowers. We have now not only a brighter colour and increased variety of shades in the flowers, but they are borne well above the leaves, unlike the original type. Greenhouses should be brightened by the Clivias in early spring when they bloom, and even without flowers the plants are ornamental, the leaves being long, deep green, and handsome, especially when set off by a number of spikes carrying large heads of richly coloured flowers. Seeds are easily raised, and in a batch of seedlings we can hope to find some improvement on existing kinds, but the practice of giving names to every variety that seems to have some claim to be considered new will only create a dislike for the whole race. No varietal name should be given to a new flower unless it is absolutely distinct, not showing a difference in degree only. Some of the named sorts are almost identical with the type, not worth a name, and not sufticiently distinct to justify it. The variety superba is weU named, the flowers being much larger and brighter in colour than those of the usual forms of Clivia miniata. Saxifraga Burseriana, now in full flower in the open air, is almost a month earlier than it was with us last year. It is the only one in this large and varied group to flower so early in spring, and when not disturbed by the birds it is one of the most delightful little pictures that can well be imagined. The little Moss-like cushions of bright green or glaucous leaves, the points sticking up like the spines of a young hedgehog, are surmounted with a profusion of the most lovely large white flowers. In some the flower-stems are green, in others purple, the latter variety being very conspicuous. Birds, in our case at any rate, are the greatest enemies, picking the petals quite away to get at the stamens. The margins are prettily frilled or crisped, but after the birds have had their way one might call them ragged. The plant may be in- creased by division. — K. Eucalyptus globulus. — 1 herewith send you cones of Eucalyptus globulus from plants here (now stately trees). The seeds were sown in heat in March, 1882, and the seedlings planted out the following May. They have been growing in various situations since without the slightest protection. 1 know the cones (or whatever you may term them) have not perfected seeds, but is it not rather un- usual for them to form even these so young ? There were many (most of them) much larger than the enclosed. I should be glad to know if this Eucalyp- tus has fruited previously in many places in the British Isles.— John Robbbts, Tan-y-hivlch, North Wales. Japanese Camellias from Twickenham. — We have received a gathering of Japanese Camellia flowers from Mr. W. Gordon, Twickenham. One named lolanthe is remarkably pretty, the flower well shaped and bright rose in colour, broadly mar- gined with clear white, the stamens rich golden yellow. It is a single flower, like the two beautiful kinds of which a coloured plate was given in The Gaeden for Sept. 14, 1889. Those who have warm sheltered spots, and especially in the southern counties, should plant these Camellias amongst the early flowering shrubs, not forgetting also their value for the greenhouse. Some of the semi-double kinds are of rich beauty, especially one figured at the bottom of the plate referred to, and named Gerald Waller. The broad, handsome flower is broadly flaked and speckled with bright carmine. Orchids at Kew. — There are several species and varieties of interest in bloom now in the Orchid house at Kew, consistingprincipaUy of Dendrobiums. D. Wardianum is the showiest, and there are some good forms, one with flowers much larger than usual. Also in full beauty are the charming crassi- node, aureum, also known as heterocarpum, primu- linum, and speciosum, a New Holland species introduced as far back as 1824. It has a dense and large raceme of creamy white flowers. The prettiest of aU was a plant full of bloom of D. Ainsworthi, a lovely hybrid between D. nobile and aureum, the sweetly-scented flowers pure white save for a rich amaranth feathered centre to the lip. Cattleya TrianEe was opening its flowers, also C. Per- civaliana. Besides these, in full bloom were Good- yera discolor, Saccolabium bellinum, Angrscum sesquipedale, Vanda Amesiana, and a curious Mor- modes with narrow sepals and petals named M. lineatum, Cypripedinms of many kinds, and such old favourites as Ciulogyne cristata. Eriostemon cuspidatus. — The Eriostemon genus, containing about thirty species of tropical Australian evergreen greenhouse shrubs, is seldom represented in gardens by even a single member. We lose much by this neglect, as some of the Eriostemons have a rich beauty when the plants are well grown and in full flower. There is a specimen of E. cuspidatus in the greenhouse at Kew smothered with the starry white flowers that cluster thickly at the end of the leafy shoots, and such a picture in the depth of winter might be seen in other gardens than Kew. There are few Eriostemons that are not worth some care, the flowers being white or pale pink and pro- duced in the dull season. Much the same cxilture will suffice as for other hard-wooded Australian plants. E. cuspidatus was introduced as far back as 1824. Bulbocodium ruthenicumis the name nnder which we received a charming spring bulb, now in full flower in a cold frame. It somewhat resembles the well-known Bulbocodium vemum, and we believe it was described as the variety versi- color by Spreng. It differs chiefly in having narrower leaves, the rich rosy purple flowers being the most important distinction between the two. It is a lo\ely bulb for spring flowering, either in the rock garden or border, dwarf in habit, and when planted in quantity making a very interest- ing group. Although perfectly hardy, it will, perhaps, be safer, as it blooms so early, to plant it in positions where it can be easily protected when necessary. Both the type and variety are useful for planting under trees of not over dense shade, and they flower earlier and receive just the protec- tion they require when in bloom. Colchicum crociflorum.— This is a most interesting, though perhaps less attractive Col- ohicum, than C. luteum. It is well named, as the flower resembles that of a Crocus. This must not be confounded with the C. crociflorum figured in the Botanical ^/agaziTie, t. 2673, and which is barely a variety of the well-known C. autumnale, or the C. crociflorum of Smyrna, which is a variety of the charming C. montanum. The present species is a native of Turkestan and the Ala Tau Mountains, and therefore perfectly hardy, usually flowering in the open air towards the end of January. There are many flowers to a bulb in the form of little bunches, the segments milk white, with a distinct purple band down the back, anthers yellow ; the leaves are very short at flowering time, narrow, lance-shaped and bright green. Colchicum luteum.— Notwithstanding the prevalence of orange and yellow Crocuses just now, this distinct and striking species of Colchicum is a most welcome addition to the spring bulb border. It isa native of the temperate region of the Western Himalayas, and is perfectly hardy in the open border. The flowers of all the other species of Colchicum are either purple or white, the majority of them appearing in autumn, and, so far as we know, the present plant is the only one with yellow flowers that has been yet introduced. It seems to have a wide range of distribution and may prove variable when its cultivation becomes more general. For the rockery or choice bulb border it is a gem, and however hard the winter may be, we have seen flowers early in January when the weather proved open for a few days. It increases apparently very slowly, and rarely ever ripens seed in the open with us. Prunus Pissardi forced.— This Cherry Plum, introduced about eight years ago into Europe, is very beautiful as a forced shrub, and its distinct beauty when used in this way should induce those who have not thus grown it to do so. With sUght pro- tection and a little artificial heat bushes of it may be flowered in January or February, and the shoots studded with blush flowers, relieved by the purplish colour of the budding leaves, have a delightful beauty in the greenhouse, besides giving variety to the usual list of forced shrubs that lose much of their interest through constant repetition. It is placed amongst Camellias in the greenhouse at Kew, a happy way of bringing out the purple colouring of the young leaves and the almost pure white flowers. P. Pissardi has an interesting his- tory. It was introduced into France by M. Pissard, head gardener to the Shah of Persia, who sent two plants of it to M. Carri^re in 1882. It is said to be a favourite at Tauris, a town in Persia, where it grows wild, not only for its richly coloured leaves, but for the fruit, which is highly esteemed. Feb. 1, 1890.] THE GAUDEN 97 Flower Garden. SEA HOLLIES. Nearly all the Sea Hollies (Eryngiunis) are very beautiful and distinct as grown in the gar- den, and as planted in sea sand and stones, our native species, E. maritimum, becomes "a thing of beauty " all the summer, even although it is one of the most difficult to cultivate success- fully. The best and easiest kinds to grow are, perhaps, E. amethystiuum, E. planum, E. gi- ganteum and E. Olivierianum, but there are many others easily raised from seeds sown in deep sandy soil where they are to grow and flower. A good group of B. giganteum is one of the most attractive objects one can have for summer and autumn eiJ'ect, and generally seeds quite abundantly and sows itself freely in most j the central boss and placed in a vase without any water, they endure fresh and eftective as indoor ornaments for weeks, even if not for months, together. My own experience is that all the Eryngia keep best without water in the vases or pots if cut at the right time, as above indicated. A good, bold mass or group of E. Olivierianum mixed with the blue Caucasian Comfrey is always much admired here every year. It grows near the roots of an Austrian Pine, which keeps the soil in a dry state, and this seems to suit the Eryngium, as it does not succeed well in deeper, richer, and moister parts of the garden. A bold group of this plant edged with Acanthus would be a noble feature in any garden. F. W. B. Tulips. — In The Gaeden, January 18 (p. 4S), ' D. K." asks the question as to the origin of such Ei'yng'mm Olivierianum. soils in open sunny situations. It has silvery- fluted stems, glaucous serrate leaves and umbel- late clusters of grey-blue flowers, surrounded by a whorl of spinose bracts, which look like frosted silver and are admirably adapted for cutting for winter decoration. It is one of the best of all the kinds for naturalising in barren spots of sand and stones in fully exposed situations where but few other things would succeed. But the very best and highest coloured of all the Eryngia known to me is E. Olivierianum, a plant long grown in gardens under the, as it appears, erroneous name of E. araethystinum. This is a perennial of free habit and great beauty. Our illustration shows two or three of its flowering stalks, cut long and placed simply in a vase. Its stems and bracts are of a deep amethystine blue colour, with a metallic efi'ect, and if cut when the first flowers open on a Tulip as T. vitellina. I think I have given authentic information about the origin of that Tulip as well as of some others at p. 572, Vol. XXXVI. of The Garden. It is very probable other similar sorts are European seedlings. The Tulip is one of the oldest cultivated plants. Dur- ing nearly three centuries florists and amateurs have been trying to get new varieties and hybrids. The variability in this plant is very considerable, and irregularities are very frequent. The early single and double varieties of Tulips now in culti- vation have, with the exception of a few older va- rieties, all originated during the last century in Holland, and yet at present novelties in these classes are oljtained there. As Mr. Douglas states, a lot of new and excellent varieties have been ob- tained in England in recent times. On the Conti- nent there have been obtained numerous excellent varieties, more particularly in the classes of byblu- mcns and roses in Belgium and French Flanders, where, however, their cultivation now is nearly totally abandoned. The newest and best collection of these Flemish late Tulips is at present in my possession. The Dutch collections of late Tulips at the end of the last and the beginning of the pre- sent century were formed from seedlings obtained in Holland and from the best collections in Flan- ders and in England. The few collections of late Tulips now existing here have originated in this way. Of many of the Tulips at present in cultiva- tion the first growers or raisers may be possibly discovered, but it may be more diificult to obtain any accurate information about their parentage, as many raisers did not take notes about the parents of their seedlings, or considered this to be a secret which ought to be kept. — J. H. Kbelage, Haarlem, SEEDLINGS OF THE FLORIST TULIP. Ti'Lirs are very readily raised from seed, so easily, indeed, that it may even be done with- out intending it, and under a roughness of treatment that would seem specially designed to ensure a failure. Some years ago I had to leave the bulbs in one of my Tulip beds so long in the ground, that a quantity of chance fertilised pods were fully grown, but were some six weeks short of being ripe. As a pre- liminary to taking them up, I had rudely, with a stick, dashed out the brains of these adolescent pods, and thought no more about it till the spring, when I found countless seed- lings, in their thread-like seed leaf, coming up over a wide area around the scene of slaughter, and some even upon the gravelled pathway. Of course, no one would think of thus toma- hawking a valuable Tulip pod of high-bred seed, but that illustration will show that there is little fear of ripened Tulip seed not growing readily enough. After much attention to raising seedling Tulips, I think it is best to sow the seed in October or November, when the old bulbs are planted. It will come up when they do, and any weaker seeds will gain advantage in an early sow- ing. I have not grown Tulip seeds in pots, boxes, or frames for some years now, and am certain that from first to last it does better in the open ground. Though very thin and scale-like, it has strength to push through half-an-inch of soil, and to find its way out in even rough and heavy ground. If, however, the soil is one that inevitably "lifts" with frost, the seed is safer when not sown till February. Kept, however, till late in spring, I have known it lie idle till the following January. It did so once when I sowed some at the end of April. The young plants are so hardy that, with the least coddling in a frame, or under any influence of stagnant damp, they are liable to collapse at the ground line, and this is extinction. Ventilation and drainage may seemingly be all sufficient, but the long, rounded seed-leaf is solid and succulent, and very apt to be drawn and weakened under any sensation of ' ' protec- tion." Not only are Tulip seedlings happier in the open ground, but it is also a gain in every way to leave them there undisturbed till the sum- mer of their third year. To this end the seed must be sown very thinly, by which 1 mean some 2 inches or 3 inches apart. By the third summer of their age, there will be quite a family of young bulbs of difi"erent sizes, and at various depths, on the spot where each seed originally came up ; and a couple of the largest bulbs of each seedling may be selected for replanting, and all the others thrown away. Otherwise the raiser on any large scale will be simply over head and ears in young Tulip bulbs before the five to seven years are over, at which they attain their blooming size. 98 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 1, 1890. The more they are taken up, the worse they will be in over-production. Left alone, they are too cunning to send their bulbs (called " droppers '' ) over deep, and it is an immense gain to induce them, if possible, to make a new bulb where the old one was, instead of half-a- dozen smaller ones in as many different places. They may adopt the more desirable course, if left at depths of their own choosing, but if care- fully replanted, as we may think best, the old game of droppers goes merrily on again ; and if under pot or box treatment there is a repetition, on only a slightly larger scale, of bulbs distorted among the crocks, or flattened against the bottom of the box. I think a year, perhaps more, is gained by leaving seedling bulbs undisturbed for three years. At that time I take them up, when the foliage shows any sign of fading, and plant two of each seedling as if they were adult bulbs and in regular Tulip bed order, that is, in rows across the bed, each couple side by side, with 6 inches between them and the next pair, and 7 inches between the rows. There I leave them until in two or three years more very many of them will jiroduce their maiden blooms. This is a time of indescribable interest, superior to that in any other florist flower, by virtue of the long suspense ending at last in the wonder- ful variety, and here and there the perfect beauty of the new faces which we have waited that long while to see. j At their first bloom all are judged, and those rejected with faults, such as a "poor shoulder," long " cup," pointed or flimsy petals, or im- purity of base or of stamens by dark stains of an unsightly inky shade upon the white or yellow ground colour. Other faults are roughness of petal edges, or a " three-cock-hat" deportment, in which the three outer petals stand off in a triangular kind of way from the three ianer ones, and probably turn over at the upper edges in a " dog's-eared," fashion. Or perhaps a flower will "quarter" through the petals being so narrow at the base, that when the flower ex- pands, it cannot hold itself together. Any of these faults, in the self or breeder form of a seedling, are perpetuated in the rectified strains into which it may afterwards break. The body colour of the petals does not matter, so long as it is congruous to that of the base, that is, a self colour of rose or pink, or rose- scarlet, must have a white base colour ; shades of la^•ender, lilac and violet should also have white for the base. If the base is yellow in these flowers, there will be two ground colours in mixture or confusinn upon the rectified forms, and these tricolors, as they are called, are an inadmissible type. A yellow base should accom- pany self colours of reddish-brown, or of ma- hogany and rosewood shades, difficult to describe. If scarlet is associated with it, the scarlet should have a yellow tinge, as in Vermillion, and not a rose-scarlet tint. White bases with the above colours would again result in tricolors. Choice seedlings are named or numbered at their first bloom. They are almost sure at this time to be yet in the self or breeder state, and the flowers that break from each separate variety of breeder must always bear the breeder's maiden name. A Tulip never changes that in any after condition of life. However distinct or leading a break may be, it cannot lawfully bear a different name. It is only a particularly fine strain of the variety from which it is derived. There are aliases of some of our Tulips, and whore they were given knowingly it is a mis- demeanour— perhaps a florist felony. Some of the shabbiest breeder colours break into the most brilliant rectified flowers, and vice versa ; so, though a pretty breeder is fair to see, we do not despise the very plainest if they break well, and have good properties in purity, shape, and substance. Purity of lineage in Tulip seedlings is of the utmost importance, and there should be no risk of seed having a white ground flower for one parent, and a yellow ground one for the other. Not only would such a cross result in dirty whites and washy yellows, but the markings would show confused colours from the different classes, and the brilliancy of their distraction would be lost. To keep the flowers from chance inter- ference, a light puff' of cotton wool may be gently laid over the stigmas ; and if these are already discoloured in the least degree, some other agency than ours has fertilised the pod and such a flower should be passed over. Each section of the tripartite .stigma is apparently connected with one of the three pairs of rows or columns of embryo seeds, and thus may have given rise to the fancy that three separate crosses could be made upon the same pod of seed. I often use several male parents for one pod, though not for this reason, because the slightest touch of pollen upon any single point of the stigraatic surface may result in a perfectly well filled pod. I have seen the point of one anther in contact eft'ect this. There is no perceptible strain upon the Tulip in seed-bearing, for the pod is fed by the fibres and foliage, which by the time that the petals fall have already perfected the new bulb. When the rest are taken up, this may quite safely be abstracted and .stored like the rest, the stem with its foliage and growing pod being left to ripen, as if it were that of an annual. The seed- stem, however, must be carefully secured to a stick and great care taken not to injure the foliage or sever the connection with the fibres F. D. Horner. THE WEATHER PLANT A FAILURE. The Kew Bulletin of Mhcellaneuus Iiiformat'um for the present month contains a report made by Dr. Oliver, of University College, of a series of ex- periments carried out in the Jodrell Laboratory of the Royal Gardens last autumn on Herr Joseph Nowack's renowned weather plant, of whose mar- vellous properties as a forecaster of weather, earth- quakes, and fire-damp we heard so much towards the close of the summer of 1888. The proprietor attended at Kew Gardens in person and superin- tended the experiments, he himself preparing the forecasts, and Dr. Oliver and Mr. Weiss making a close inspection of the movements of the plants and noting the actual weather experienced from day to day so as to check the correctness or other- wise of the predictions. The plant is the well- known tropical legume, Abrus precatorius, a shrubby climber originally anative of the East Indies, but now scattered to the Mauritius, West Indies, and other tropical countries. Dr. Oliver enters minutely into a description of the ingenious devices by which Herr Nowack professed to be able to ascertain what would occur at some future date, the weather forty-eight hours hence, and earthquake and fire- damp days or weeks hence anywhere up to a dis- tance of many hundreds of miles ; also an ex- planation of the mode of fixing on the day to which the forecasts referred (for it was found in practice not to be limited strictly to forty-eight hours) ; if the results were not favourable the final determination of the day for which the fore- cast was made out was only made after the event. In this way less than one-half the fore- casts were two days ahead, the others being one, three, four days, &c. The dates for some of them were altered twice, so that every opportunity was afforded to select the most suitable day to agree with the forecasts. Bat, notwithstanding these unexampled facilities, Herr Nowack made a very poor show of what it was possible to attain in the matter of forecasting anything. There were nu- merous changes in the weather during October, but although there were over 140 predictions, Dr. Oliver states that only one change was anticipated by Herr Nowack. The predictions of earthquakes, schlagtvetter (fire-damp in coal mines), and the positions of areas of high and of low barometer within the limits of the Meteorological Office Daily Weather Charts (the last-mentioned idea having occurred to Herr Nowack since his arrival in Eng- land) were submitted to Mr. R. H. Scott, and were found to be as unsuccessful as the weather fore- casts. Of nine earthquake predictions one was correct and eight failures ; of nine schlai/n-etter two were correct, two nearly so, and five failures. Be- tween fifty and sixty barometric charts were drawn up, and on placing them side by side with those prepared from the facts at the Meteorological Office " no accordance was found between the successive pairs of maps." The result of the inquiry, there- fore, has been to show that the plant is not to be relied on as a substitute for the ordinary systems of weather predictions. NEW MUSKS. It is some sixty years since the popular Mnsk plant was introduced from the Colombia River, U.S.A., and with a rapidity not surprising it be- came deservedly popular. A few years ago Harri- son's Musk was introduced, and by reason of its large and strikingly marked blossoms, it soon be- came a very valuable market plant, and it is largely grown for the purpose. One sometimes meets with what is regarded as a large-flowered form of the common Musk, but it appears to be pretty much a matter of high cultivation. Mr. Clapham did ex- cellent work when he introduced his three new hybrid varieties about eight years ago. They are all true Musks ; one of them, M. moschatus grandi- florus, is a robust growing variety like Harrison's, but quite distinct from it, the flowers large and of a pure yellow shade, of fine form, and produced with great freedom. It has been tried as a bedding plant in the same way as Harrison's, and found to answer equally well. There are some gardeners, perhaps, who are not aware what excellent bedding plants the Musks make when properly looked after. Mr. Clapham's two other hybrids were very distinct, but they do not appear to have found their way into cultivation. They are both of a singularly dwarf and compact habit of growth. The most striking is named ruber. This does not grow more than 3 inches to 4 inches in height, the flowers large, and of a deep reddish buff colour, and freely produced. I think Mr. Clapham must have secured this hue of colour by crossing some old form with M. cnpreus. I wonder this variety, so singu- larly distinct and attractive, has never been taken up and grown for market purposes. The flowers are quite as large, and perhaps a little larger, than those of Harrison's. I think charming small beds of this dwarf Musk could be made in the summer flower garden. The other kind is as dwarf, compact, and free as ruber, but with self-coloured tiowers of a glowing rich yellow colour. These two dwarf varieties can be easily propagated by placing plants in a gentle heat in early spring, and then striking cuttings from the young growths sent up by them. Like Harrison's, neither of these three hybrids of Mr. Clapham produce seed, like the common Musk. Seed of the common Musk is not in such demand as it formerly was, probably be- cause my surmise is a correct one — that the plant is not nearly so largely grown. But the old-fashioned Musk is always well worthy of being grown in pots, using a light rich soil for the purpose. As soon as the plants begin to make growth in spring the old stools can be divided into small pieces, potted, and cuttings taken from them if stock is required. Placed on a slight hot- bed, they grow freely, and young stock can soon be had. The Mnsk can be grown in pots into large specimens if required. I have seen very fine examples of the old form, and also of Harrison's, produced at flower shows. I have also seen both employed for filling hanging baskets. The principal points to be attended to ingrowing Feb. 1, 1890. J THE GARDEN. i)9 specimens of Musk are to use a rich soil, give plenty of water when growing, a moderate amount of shade, and not to disturb the roots more than necessary during the season of growth after the first potting. A class for a specimen Musk plant is often found in the schedules of country flower shows, and some good plants are staged, and I have seen prizes awarded to Mimulns cardinalis as a Musk. When the City Flower Show was held a few years ago in the gardens of Finsbnry Circus, some excellent specimens of Musk (city grown) were shown, but the great difficulty was to get them into bloom. But that was not the fault of the cultivator so much as the conditions of atmosphere and light under which it is difficult to bloom Fuchsias and other plants that in a clearer and brighter atmo- sphere flower readily and freely. R. D. one at a time, with sometimes as many as fifteen to t\\euty buds to teep up the succession. It was in bioom recently at Tottenham, and will pkase those who like curio.;cum genus was once only regarded as of interest to the botanist, few of the species being cultivated as ornamental plants, but when Mr. Ellis brought A. sesquipedale home from Madagascar and established it in his gar- den at Hoddesdon, where it flowered in 1857, upwards of thirty years ago, a new interest sprung up in tlie genus. To tlie Rev. Mr. Ellis is, tlierefore, due the fact of introducing it to as a genus is not now, however, looked upon as containing botanical curiosities only, for such species as A. citratum, A. Sanderianum, A. Ellisi, A. Kotschyi (here figured), A. Scotti- anuni, and A. Chailluanum have completely changed the aspect of affairs, not to name many other species which are now grown and looked upon as objects of great beauty. A flower of A . sesquipedale before me does not, however, come up to its true character, as its spur measures only a foot in length ; the sepals and petals and the lip are ivory white, thick, and the spur green ; this when contrasted with its blue-green distichous leaves forms a splendid picture. The plant would appear, by the quantities which have been imported by the Messrs. Low and Co., of Clapton, to be much more common than Mr. Ellis found it, for there are enough fine plants in the Clapton Nurseries to furnish half the Orchid establishments in the country. Angrseoum Kotschyi. Europe in a living state, but Du Petit Thouars should have the credit of its first discovery, he having made the plant known nearly seventy years ago. Mr. Ellis speaks of this plant upon several occasions in his book of travels, and says "he only found it in the lower and hotter districts in the island, that it does not grow in the moist and thickly wooded parts, but gene- rally on straggling trees along the borders ot the forests, and most frequently upon the trunks and branches of thinly-leaved trees;" from this it may be inferred that the plants enjoy exposure to sun and light, and in such positions I saw it recently doing splendidly in Mr. Jacomb's garden at Cheam Park. It is one of the most beautiful plants of this section of Orchids, and certainly by far the finest species of this genus not only in cultivation, but the finest yet known. Perhaps some of the forests through which Stanley has recently travelled may yield some even finer than this. Angrsecum Should something startling in the way of colour occur, it will lead to the Angra?cuins becoming the rage ; the number of species is large, and from the small- flowered A. hyaloides to the large-flowered A. sesquipedale there are many changes. These plants are all remarkable for the length of tail which is developed from the base of the lip, and which adds greatly to the ett'ect produced. A. sesquipedale may be reck- oned a plant of considerable beauty even with- out flowers, the leaves being broadly oblong, imbricating, and two-lohed at the points ; they are arranged in a two-ranked fashion (distich- ous) and are of a rich greenish blue hue, so that it forms a conspicuous object in the house when not in flower. There have been some ditt'erences of oiiinion about these plants, for as some flower before Christmas, lasting until the present time or later, so another form opens its blooms in the late spring months, thus last- ing until the early sununer. It has been said 102 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 1, 1890. that the spring-bloommg kind is a better form than the winter bloomer, and tliat the varieties are distinct, but after watching them closely I am of opinion that there is nothing to distia- guish one from the other. Like Aerides and Vandas, Angrseeums have no pseudo- bulbs, and the stems will not bear too severe a drying, and therefore, although they should receive a very limited quantity of water during the winter months, they should never be allowed to sufl'er. A slight atmospheric moisture should also be about them. The drainage should be good, and I think the best results are obtained from pot culture. W. H. Gower. saccate portion is white spotted with pnrple inside. The species is a native of Burmah, whence it was introduced five or six years ago. It is best grown in Sphagnum alone, and prefers to be suspended near the glass in the East Indian house ; the baskets should be small and well drained. — W. B. Masdevallia Schrcederiana. — This very rare species, originally introduced by Mr. Sander, is new flowering in Mr. Measures' garden at Camberwell. The growth of the plant much resembles that of M. Eeichenbachiana, but its flowers are quite distinct, being of good size, beautifully coloured, and very showy. They stand well above the foliage, the three tail-like points of the sepals being yellow, whilst the outer portion is of a beautiful bright amethyst-purple, the centre white, and the throat rich orange-jellow. It is a lovely and beautiful species, and is very rare. Orchid flowers from Cheam Park. — Mr. May, gardener to Mr. Jacomb, sends me a beautiful box of flowers. Among them I note particularly Phalasnopsis Stuartiana, a beautiful variety, pro- fusely and richly spotted ; also some flowers of what I consider is P. gloriosa, which was figured in The Garden, April 20, 1889. There also came a fine variety of P. Schilleriana and many charming forms of 0. Alexandia;, fine flowers, of good substance and beautifully fringed ; and flowers of Dendrobium Ains- worthi and Odontoglossum Hunnewellianum, a pretty plant. This species was introduced by Mr. Sander, of St. Albans —W. H. G. Cypripedium Sallieri and the variety Hyeanum. — This plant was supposed to have been raised at the Chateau du Val, in France, the residence of Madame Fould. Last season when noticing a plant of this form which flowered in Mr. Shuttleworth's collection, and which he received from Burmah as a small seedling plant, M. Sallier wrote to say that the plant named after him he had no reason to suppose was a hybrid. Later on Mr. J. Bowring, of Forest Farm, near Windsor, raised a seedling which was considered like it. Is not this the form known as Hyeanum, which is even more beautiful than Sallieri 7— G. Laelia peduncularis — The Flor de Jesns, so called by the dwellers in Guatemala, where it is a much prized plant, was in our collections fifty years ago, and in my younger days it had become a somewhat common plant, but it was considered a diflicult plant to grow. This arose, I have no doubt, from overloading its roots with soil, as I have found out since that it thrives best with the tiniest bit of soil about it. Of late years, however, the plant has become scarce, and I was agreeably surprised to find in an amateur's collection a plant bearing seven racemes of its beautiful blooms, which are rosy pnrple. The inside of the side lobes is marked with deep crimson, in front of which is a faint tinge of yellow or yellowish white. — G. Saccolabium bellinum.— So far as regards the beauty of its individual flowers this species must be given the first place amongst Saccola- biums. It belongs to that section of the genus which is distinguished by having the flowers in a corymb— a group to which the beautiful S. bigib- bum also belongs. The number of flowers on a scape is usually four or five and rarely exceeds seven. They are about 1^ inches across, with fleshy oblong sepals and petals of a creamy yellow, thickly blotched with dark brown. The lip is very remarkable in structure ; the basal part is in the form of a pouch, from the margin of which the spreading front portion projects. This is covered with white, thread-like processes, except on the centre, where there is a patch of yellow. The ORCHIDS AT BRISTOL. One of the most interesting collections of Orchids in Bristol is that of Mr. Crispin in Chester Park. In the early part of January a number of species and varieties were in bloom ; and amongst them a large healthy mass of LiElia crispa at once claimed attention, not only on account of its fine vigorous condition, but from the fact of its carrying a strong spike bearing four fully expanded flowers. The plant is kept as near the glass as possible in the East Indian house and deluged with water, except for a short time after the usual season of flowering, this treatment differing from that commonly ac- corded to Lfelias and Cattleyas, for which the pro- cess of drying off for a protracted period is deemed so necessary. After flowering in July last, a num- ber of bulbs subsequently produced spikes that showed no appearance of sheaths, and this Orchid has continued to throw flower-spikes up to the present time, while the growth has greatly in- creased. Dendrobium speciosum, which was carry- ing eleven stout racemes of large well-reflexed flowers, is an old introduction. Some pieces of Lffilia anceps and L. albida, relieved by the more neutral tints of Oncidium leopardinum, with a light graceful spike here and there of the free- flowering Oncidium flexuosum, and a number of smaller specimens, such as Cattleya Percivaliana, Cattleya Walkeriana, Oncidium Papilio, and others, formed a bright picture. In the intermediate house Phajus grandifolius was throwing up a crowd of its noble spikes, while depending from the roof, Dendrobinms, among them being D. heterocarpum, D. crassinode, and D. nobile, in various stages of flower, added to the brightnefs of the structure. In the cool house the Odontoglossums, including 0. Pescatorei, O. Rossi, and 0. Cervantesl, with several others, were bearing strong flower-spikes. Mr. Crispin's success is undoubtedly in part due to the admirable construction of his houses, these having been built in a way to meet the require- ments of each section, and include East Indian, intermediate, and cool houses. In the two former a portion of the pipes is laid in open brickwork water tanks, and the pipes being fitted with the necessary valves together with the use of a hygro- meter in each house the atmosphere is completely under command. Hot-water pipes of small dia- meter are affixed to the roof. They prevent drip, which proves so destructive to young growth. But with Mr. Crispin this is practically unknown, as latterly neither syringe nor watering-pot have been used, sufficient moisture being quickly raised by evaporation, and all watering is done more effectu- ally by plunging the plants in a tank of tepid water. c. M. *,■* With these notes were received spikes of Lajlia anceps and Cattleya crispa, both showing that the plants have been thoroughly well grown and agreeing with what is written of Mr. Crispin's collection. — Ed. SHORT NOTES.— ORCEIDS, venusturii. It is peculiar in showing the prepoiider- ance of its first-named parent upon the flower ; the sepals and petals are white, veined with green ; the petals are reddish-purple at the tips, and the large greenish lip is veined with purple; its foliage is tes- sellated much in the same way as that of vcnustum. It IS a French hybrid of great beauty.— W. H. G. Dendrobium transparens. — This is a very pretty old species which has not found much favour with the plant -growing public, but it really deserves every attention, its flowers being very ele- gant and freely produced. The flowers are numer- ous, each about Ij inches across, white, more or less flushed with rosy mauve or rosy lilac, and stained at the base with a large blood-coloured blotch. It comes from Northern India at some 5000 feet elevation. Odontoglossum AlexandrsB flaveolum (ir. H.). — This is no doubt the variety of which I have received fine flowers. The forms of this, which I have from time to time seen, and in which the sepals and petals have been of a dirty white or straw colour, I consider of no>alue. In the variety before me the sepals and petals are of a good shade of yellow and the lip is of a deeper yellow, bearing numerous radiating lines about the crest of a reddish crimson, and one or two spots of rich crimson on the lip. In every other respect but colour it may be reckoned a good form of Alex- andra;. This variety is well deserving of all care, as the form is somewhat rare, especially such a richly coloured one as the one now before me. Cypripedium Atys.— This is now flowering in Mr. Measures' collection at Camberwell. It is the first time I have seen this plant in bloom, and it occurred to me that it was exactly like C. Fitchia- num, sent out by Mr. Williams in 1888. This, Mr. Williams, in the eighth volume of the Album, page 350, says is a cross between C. Hookeiaj and C. barbatum ; the foliage is conspicuously tessellated with deep olive-green on a greyish ground, and the flowers are somewhat similar to those of Hookerje, saving that they are less beautiful and have a very large pouch for the size of the flower. This de- scription will apply to Atys and C. Fitchianum, and if anyone can point out any distinctions, I should be glad to know them ; if not, C. Atys must be considered a synonym of C. Fitchianum. — W. A new Odontoglossum. — This is anew species received from Mr. Broome, Llandudno. The stem is very flexuose, and carries a raceme of about fourteen flowers, each measuring about an inch and a half across, sepals and petals spreading, the for- mer greenish yellow, heavily blotched with irregu- lar shaped spots of dull chocolate ; the ground col- our of the petals at the base is white, on which are three narrow parallel lines of reddish-brown, the apical portion passing into greenish-yellow mar- gined with dull chocolate ; lip, pure white, spotted with chestnut, and having a very long and full beard, composed of long, thread-like appendages, which grow out of the crest and disc ; these are white and completely cover the lip, giving the flower a very curious and shaggy appearance. I am told the plant comes from Burmah, which, of course, is an error, as no Odontoglossums are found out of America, and so for a time perhaps its lo- cality will remain doubtful. It is a most peculiar flower, and collectors should be on the look out for this novelty. — G. Cypripedium Sedeni rubieundum is a very brilliant and free-. flowering form of this hybrid, which I lately noted. It is one of those bright-coloured forms which are so desirable in collections of these plants, and whicli are always welcome. — G. Lrelia acuminata.— This, sometimes called a white variety of Lfelia peduncularis, I lately saw in bloom. It hoars quite a quantity of spikes, the flowers on which, however, were past their best, and certainly much smaller than those of the very fine form received a short time ago from Mr. Cypher, gardener to Mrs. Studd, .at Bath. The colours are, however, the same, being white with a deep crimson eye, and just a stain of yellow in frout. — G. Cypripedium Carrier!.- This is a beautiful pUnt, being a cj-oss between C. superbiens and C. Plant shelters. — Those ot your readers who like out-of-the-way devices in gardens, as I do, may care to hear of the results from our little mound caves, of which I wrote in The Garden, December 18, 1886 (p. 563), and will, I hope, ex- periment in the same direction. The first caves were built with two small pieces of stone, so after showing that the greenhouse Ferns, such as Adian- tum cnneatum and Pteris serrulata, would stand the winter, the roof began to drop in. These were planted in February, 1885. We made a new series of mound caves and planted them in October, 1887. These bad one large stone for each side, back, and roof ; they have stood well, and the greenhouse Ferns in them are now green, and both have seed- lings all along the sides of the stone, showing that Feb. 1, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 103 they are quite at home. In another set of caves Cyclamen macrophyllum is thriving, and a number of different varieties of Adiantums are planted, but have not yet had time to establish themselves. I have tried a good many bulbs and tender Prim- roses, but these failed, I suppose from insufficient light. There muse, I think, be many plants which would succeed as well as in a greenhouse. In very cold weather a slab or slate may be used across the mouth of the caves. — Georub F. Wilson, Heatherbanlt, Wei/briiiije. THE WEEK'S WORK. PLANT HOUSES. Fbrns. — Any injury which the roots of Ferns suffer tends to weaken the growth of the plants for a time, and if any top-growth is being made when the roots are interfered with, the young fronds become crippled. Even the removal of the old drainage material, consequent on the plants being repotted, affects them in the way named if there is any growth going on. During winter most species are quite at rest, whilst others that may be said to never be wholly dormant are the least active. The best time for repotting is towards the end of the dormant season, just before the new growth begins to move. This, under ordinary treatment, usually takes place from the middle to the end of the pre- sent month, according to the amount of heat the plants receive. The great difference that there is in the size which the various species of Ferns now in cultivation attain, and also the difference that exists in the character of their growth, natur- ally require the exercise of judgment in the amount of root-room that is given to the respective kinds. Ferns will do with much less root-room than most things, provided the growth is sufficiently supported with manure water during the spring and summer whilst the fronds are in course of formation. Tree species. — Even the largest of the Tree species, such as the Dicksonias, Cibotiums, and Cyatheas, will do with much smaller pots or tubs than are often used. Too much root -room f.auses the fronds of these large growing species to attain double the size necessary. Big fronds crowd out or smother the smaller kinds, which are equally as beautiful and interesting as the large growers. For the same reason the planting oat of the large growers in houses, where with the aid of rockwork a natural effect is sought, is objectionable, as by confining the roots of the Tree Ferns and other large kinds in pots or tubs and plunging them, a much better result is attained. In this way the big plants can have their positions altered from time to time, and double the number of the smaller kinds can be kept in good condition through the large sorts not reaching an unmanageable size. Soil. -Ferns do not like shaking out with a view to giving them new soil in the way that is practised with many plants ; consequently this should not be done, except when the material happens to get sour and unsuitable for the roots, or in the case of such kinds as it may be desirable to break up where an increase of stock is wanted. For this reason the material they are potted in should be of a description that may be expected to keep in a healthy porous state for an indefinite time. Brown peat containing a full amount of fibrous matter answers for the majority of Ferns ; for though most of them will grow in loam, they do not attain the dark green colour in it which they do in peat. In addition to the sand which is mixed with the potting soils used for most things, a good sprinkling of charcoal, potsherds, or coal cinders broken to the size of horse beans should be added. Soil composed of these materials will keep in right condition for the roots as long as anything that can be devised, as if the drainage is not allowed to get foul through the presence of worms, or by its not having been sufficiently secured, it will last for many years. Potting. — A little more drainage should be used for even the deeper rooting kinds of Ferns than is necessary for the majority of plants, whilst the shallow rooters, such as Gleichenias, Davallias, and others that have creeping rhizomes, should have still more. For all this latter section shallow pots or deep pans are preferable to pots of the ordinary shape. When repotting do not interfere with the roots that are closely packed round the outside of the balls. Make the new soil as solid as the old balls ; if this is not done the water will pass off down the outside, and leave the centre dry. Raise the temperature a few degrees as soon as the plants are potted, and keep the atmosphere a little more moist than it has been during the winter. It will be better not to give air for three weeks or so after the potting is carried out. Stove. — Achimenes — Where these plants are wanted to give a long succession of blooms some tubers should be put in heat shortly, and a second and third batch later on. If the roots were pro- perly matured before the tops were allowed to die down, they will now be plump and strong; whereas badly ripened tubers will be soft and liable to decay when they are put into the soil unless care is taken that it be fairly dry. Loam and leaf-mould sifted, with enough sand to make the whole light, is the right material to use. If heavy soil is used the young roots get broken when the plants are transferred from the pans or pots in which they are started to those they are to be grown in. An ordinary stove temperature is the best for them. Gloxinias. — A portion of the stock of Gloxi- nias may also now be started. In the case of small roots struck from leaf-cuttings last summer, it is best to set them going early, as they have then a long season in which to attain size and strength. It is well to put small roots into 3-inch or 4-inch pots at first, giving them more room when they have taken well hold of the soil. A mixture of loam, peat, rotten manure and sand forms a suit- able compost. Do not cover the tubers deep in the soil. The crowns should be on a level with the surface. A temperature such as advised for Achi- menes will answer for Gloxinias. Gloxinias. — seed sowing — Where the plants are grown from seed it is necessary to see that the strain can be relied on, otherwise labour and room are wasted. Sow in shallow boxes or ordinary seed- pans, which drain and fill with soil of a similar character to that recommended for growing the tubers in. Pass it through a fine sieve, make the surf.ice smooth, and sow thinly, covering the seed very slightly with a little of the finest of the soil. Again press the surface, stand in ordinary stove heat, and as soon as the seedlings appear raise the pans close to the glass. T. B. KITCHEN GARDEN. Broad Beans teansplastbd.— It has been al- most impossible to preserve the autnmn-raised plants from slugs, but in all cases where there is a fairly good plant the first favourable opportunity should be taken of breaking up two or three of the end rows in order to have a sufficiency of plants for filling up the gaps, or, better still, the requisite number may be raised in small pots under glass and turned out before they are badly root-bound. As a rule, extra early dishes are not very highly valued, but were it otherwise, raising the plants singly in ;!-inch pots and transplanting these to a warm border is perhaps the quickest and best way of procuring early gatherings. The rather shy- bearing extra long-podded varieties are induced to crop more surely and quickly when transplanted from pots, but this fact is principally of value to exhibitors. Sowing Broad Beans. — In all cases where no Beans were sown in the previous autumn and none are raised under glass, the earliest rows ought to be got in as early in February as the state of the ground will permit. The Mazagan is less popular than of old, and either a good selection of Early Longpod or Beck's Dwarf Green Gem (we grow both) is preferred. Whether a portion of a warm border be given up to them or not ought to depend upon circumstances, and I will only add that they are nearly or quite as early in a sunny open spot as they are when grown on more sheltered borders. As there is every probability of many early sown seeds perishing in the ground, they should be sown somewhat thickly, thinning out later on being resorted to if need be. The rows of Beck's Gem ought to be 2 feet apart, as the plants branch strongly, and not being smothered up crop profusely. Single lines of the taller sorts may also be 2 feet apart, or if double rows are sown these should be 3 feet apart, the seed being covered with about 3 inches of light soil. The broad-podded section ought not to be sown yet, the seed of these being the most liable to rot in the ground. A Pba border. — In many large gardens early Peas have to be very extensively grown, as many as four quarts of seed being sown as early in February as the ground can be got into a fit condition for the reception of the seed. The fashion is to devote a long south border to this crop, and when the rows of any of the early round-seeded and the still taller-growing William I. are only 3 feet or slightly more apart, they are almost certain to overshadow and weaken each other, also doing much injury to wall trees behind. A simple way of obviating this diliioulty is to dispose the rows of the taller varie- ties fully 10 feet apart, and between these grow about four rows of either Chelsea Gem or William Hurst Peas, neither of which often attain a height of 2 feet. If preferred beds of Early Potatoes, Spinach, Cauliflowers, and Beck's Gem Broad Beans can be grown between the taUer Peas, and the latter will in either case be much more productive owing to being exposed to plenty of light and air, while the intervening crops will be slightly sheltered by the rows of tall Peas and will do well. Those in charge of smaller gardens might in many instances adopt the same plan on a smaller scale, and if well carried out they will have good reason to be satisfied with the experiment. Spinach.— It is yet somewhat too early to put out Cauliflower plants or to plant Potatoes, but the first favourable opportunity should be taken of sowing seed of Spinach. There is always a great run on the winter Spinach, and the sooner the spring-sown crops are available the better. It is rarely advisable to de- vote a breadth of ground entirely to Spinach, as it can be grown in sufficient quantities in either the wide or narrow spaces between early Peas. In the former case the drills may be drawn 12 inches apart ; while if the rows of Peas are disposed more thickly together, one line of Spinach midway between them is ample. Quite shallow drills ought to be drawn, the seed being sown somewhat freely and covered with light soil. This crop has few enemies, but if slugs prove troublesome they must be kept off by the aid of soot and lime. What thinning out is necessary may be delayed till the thinnings are large enough to use. The breadths of winter Spinach are doing good service, frost which com- pletely killed many Russian Violets growing very near, not in the least injuring the plants of either the round, prickly-seeded, or Victoria Spinach. Naturally very little growth is made during the winter, but a dressing of soot given shortly and occasional surface hoeings may hasten the forma- tion of fresh leaves considerably. It is to be hoped that the seed of A'ictoria or Monstrous Viroflay will soon be sold at a sufticiently cheap rate to admit of one of these superior and extra large-leaved varieties entirely superseding the smaller forms for all crops. Onions. — Those who harvested their crops of Onions well have good reason to be satisfied wiih the precaution taken. It was scarcely possible to ripen the greater portion of them in the open, and all who were wise in time placed them thinly in a heated, yet airy vinery, or other dry comparatively hot position for at least a month. Thus treated they keep admirably; whereas those stored in a partially harvested state are now too far advanced in growth to be of much value. In the latter case the best thing to do with them is to plant out thickly in rows between young Strawberry plants or between fruit bushes. Late frosts may cripple some of them, but the bulk will most probably con- tinue to grow, and in the coarse of a few weeks may be drawn for use as required. Being pulled to pieces, every separate growth will be found to have a fairly large bulb attached to it, and Onions 104 THE GARDEN. [Fer 1, 1890, of this description when sold in the markets are known as " Scallions." Teansplanting Onions.— Autumn-raised plants, principally of Tripoli varieties, have continued to grow more or less all the winter, and are unusually strong and abundant. If there is a likelihood of Onions being scarce in May a small portion of a sunny, though not necessarily a south border may well be given up to the growth of a few short rows of The CJaeen, White Naples, White Lisbon, or any other quick-bulbing Onion that may have been raised. This should be both rich and firm, the firmer the better in fact, short of binding the soil together badly, quickly formed rather than extra large bulbs being most needed. Only thin out the rows, the plants being carefully lifted so as to pre- serve all the roots possible. Replant in shallow drills, well spreading out the roots and cover firmly. The neat grown Queen and Baretta may be put out 5 inches apart in rows 9 inches asunder, rather more space being given up to the larger varieties. Soot stirred into the surface of Onion ground promotes a more rapid growth. It is yet rather early to meddle with the main supply of Tripoli and autumn-raised Onions generally. W. I. FRUITS UNDER GLASS. Vines.— Stopping, tying down, pinching and regu- lating the laterals in the early house will now re- quire daily attention, the main point being the retention of just sufficient wood to furnish every part of the trellis with an even spread of foliage. The shoots ia all cases should be pinched at the second or third joint beyond the bunch, and all laterals behind it at the first leaf from time to time as they make growth, but the leading lateral may be allowed to make several joints, always provided there is plenty of room for the leaves when they are fully developed. Remove all super- fluous bunches from free setting varieties like the Hamburgh the moment the best placed and most promising can be decided upon, and raise the day and night temperature, the first to 70°, the latter to 60°, to draw them out to their fullest length, especially where they show a tendency to run into tendrils. Also give all the air possible, say from 9 a.m , when the temperature begins to rise, until 1 p.m., when the house must be shut up with sun heat and moisture. WATBRiNfj. — As no one thinks of watering Vines when the Grapes are in flower, advantage should be taken of a mild and bright day for giv- ing to the inside borders a supply which will keep them going until after the berries are set and ready fcr thinning. Old Vines will take generous liquid at every watering, but young ones, espe- cially if they are strong, will not require stimu- lants until after the Grapes are thinned, as too much vigour is detrimental to fertilisation. The .■iupply of water, notwithstanding, must be abun- dant, as well-drained inside borders will take from 2 feet to 3 feet in the course of the season, and the higher the temperature, provided it does not exceed 90°, the bttter the progress. FicETiLisATioN.— When the bunches generally are in flower raise the temperature on all favour- able occasions, give sufficient fire-heat to favour a free circulation of fresh air, but avoid draughts, and keep the atmosphere somewhat drier to foster the dispersion of pollen. When this is plentiful run over all shy setting varieties about noon, using a camel's-hair brush or rabbit's tail, and see that the good old Hamburgh supplies the principal part of the pollen. Muscats, Buckland Sweetwater, and Gros Colman require particular attention, and set best when the points of the bunches are turned up to the light, but not above the foliage. Succession vinebies. — Discontinue syringing when the shoots are about 2 inches in length, but damp the walls and fioors twice a day, and' pay extra attention to the turning of the ferment- ing material. Disbud with a free hand, reduce the bunches on each shoot to one, not necessarily the largest, unless they are wanted for some special purpose, as four small or medium-sized clusters are better than two large ones, especially where high finish and home use or market are leading points with the cultivator. Where early Muscats and Gros Colman are grown together the house should be started not later than the first week in February. The Muscats most likely will be cut first, but if they are not, the two will succeed well together, and the Colmans will be greatly superior to the general run of this second-rate Grape met with in later houses. Figs. — When the pot trees have made five or six leaves aU the strongest shoots must be pinched by degrees, and free varieties, like Brown Turkey, be thinned, otherwise the whole of the most forward fruit may be lost by being too covetous. Top- dress frequently, water copiously, using generous liquid at a temperature of HO", and syringe well twice a day, not only to feed the fruit, but also to prevent the spread of red spider. Renovate the fer- menting material, using fresh warm leaves from the reserve, and apply sufficient fire-heat to maintain a night temperature of (J0° to (;5°, with a little front air, 70° to 75° by day, and 80" after closing with sun and moisture. As Figs revel in heat, light, and moisture, the glass must De kept clean, and the house may be closed about 1 p.m., when every part of the foliage must be copiously bathed in warm water. Steawbbebibs.— Continue the fertilisation of the flowers when the temperature reaches the maximum on fine days, and give plenty of air to prevent condensation of moisture. Thin and support the fruit with small sticks when well set and remove the plants to the Pine stove to swell and ripen. Water regularly and well; using tepid liquid, and syringe freely to prevent the appearance of red spider. Work the different batches forward as space offers, filling up at the coldest end of the house, water cautiously at first and fumingateat short intervals to ensure freedom from fly when the plants are in flower. Get the main crop plants cleansed and transferred to light shallow pits where the buds will come on in advance of the roots and draw from these as they are wanted. Clear all Peach houses and early vineries as soon as other arrangements can be made, well scrub the shelves and wash the walls with quicklime and sulphur to prevent future outbreaks of spider. Keep Queens and other late sorts cool and quiet for the present, but see that suitable pits are prepared for their reception, as they must have the shelter of glass when they com- mence throwing up the flower trusses. HARDY FRUITS. Pruning. — When the training of wall trees. Peaches and Figs excepted, is finished, bushes and pyramids must be pruned, cleansed, and staked without delay. Manuring, mulching, and forking can then be brought to a close, and nets, where necessary, will make the buds secure from birds, already busy upon Plums and bush fruits. A few years ago we found syringing Gooseberries with a thin solution of lime quite sufl5cient, but this no longer answers our purpose ; consequently we are obliged to prune early and net before the buds commence swelling. The promise of flower is won- derfully good, but the weather is much too mild for the season, as trees kept in a state of semi- excitement when they should be quite dormant rarely set kindly, although frost never touches them when in flower in the spring. Protection, as a matter of course, must be provided, and seeing how quickly Apricots and Cherries will be in flower, the materials should be got ready for use without delay. Those whose expenditure is unlimited will have their glass copings and canvas curtains ready for putting in position in a single day, but others com- pelled to fight the elements with the roughest and cheapest of materials will have to resort to the broad coping board, a few rustic poles, and a front facing of two or three thicknesses of second-hand fish netting. These may be planned and laid aside for the present, as I question if it is not better to leave protection alone than coddle the trees before the flowers begin to expand. Steawbbrribs.— Weeds and runners having been growing throughout the winter, advantage should be taken of dry days for trimming and put- ting the beds in order and increasing the mulch- ing, as being the most profitable mode of keeping small weeds in subjection. If animal manure is not forthcoming, a thorough dressing with stifi calcareous loam will answer equally well, as it will have time to pulverise and be fit for breaking down amongst the old stools in the spring. Another im- portant aid to old beds is a good dressing of soot sown by hand between the rows, and the same may be said of liquid manure, care being taken that these stimulants do not fall directly upon the crowns of the plants. The season of growth, no doubt, is the best time for applying liquid, but where the tanks, as so often happens at this time of year, are full to overflowing, it is much better to cart it to the fruit quarters than allow it to run away into the drains. Raspberries, bush fruits Pears on the Quince and Apples on the Paradise stocks will take any reasonable quantity of liquid during the winter, especially where the soil is light and porous and the lower roots rarely receive half enough in summer. Planting. — As few fruit growers make a prac- tice of planting in December and January, those having work in arrear should take advantage of dry days for getting trees transferred to their per- manent places early in the coming month. As each tree is planted it should be carefully staked to prevent wind- waving, and mulched to prevent drought, but on no account should a single shoot be touched by the knife, as each wotmd allows the escape of sap which should aid in the formation of new roots. Where large quarters have been deeply trenched or cultivated for new plantations of young trees, the ground should be worked over a second time with steel forks, then when in good condition each station must be defined by the in- troduction of a neat stake. It the ground is heavy and lies low, hillock planting will answer best, and all manure must be reserved for use as a mulch ; but if light, poor, and subject to drought, a little fresh rich compost should be placed about the roots. Mulching may consist of almost anything that will keep in moisture, but for poor porous soils there is nothing better than good farmyard ma- nure, as it answers the twofold purpose of feeding the roots and keeping them moist and cool. W. C. Garden Flora. PLATE 738. SOLANUM WENDLANDI. (with a coloured plate.*) This plant lias been for several years con- .spicuous amongst tlie climbers grown in the tropical Water Lily house at Kew, its large heads, almost a foot in diameter and crowded with flowers, nearly all expanded together, hanging from the rafters of the roof, and re- maining in beauty several weeks. Mr. Moon has been compelled through want of space to represent only a portion of one of these heads. The size and bright colours of the flowers are, however, well shown, and we have but to multiply the picture by three to get a correct iilea of the cliaracter of a full-sized inflorescence. Kew is indebted for this Solanum to Mr. Wendland, Director of the famous Botanic Gardens at Herrenhausen, who sent a plant of it in 188:?, with the infor- mation that it came from the colder regions of Costa Kica, where it climbs upon trees. It has thick succulent stems, covered with uriekles, slightly liooked when young, but * Drawn for The Garden in the Royal Gardens, Kew, by H. G. Moon, September 12, 1889. Litho- graphed and printed by GuiUaume Severejns. VH6 CAROeN FEB f iC:,o SOLANUM WENDLANDI Feb. 1, 1890.] THE GAEDEN. 105 becoming blunt and corky vnth age. The leaves vary in size and shape, those near the ends of the branches being oblong, acuminate, and about 4 inches long, while those lower down are more or less piunatifidand 10 inches long. The flowers are in compact cymose heads on the ends of the growing branches, which, when allowed to hang downwards, have an elegant effect. Each flower is from '2\ inches to 3 inches across, pale lilac-blue, shaded and lined with purple ; the little pyra- midal cluster of stamens standing erect in the middle, being yellow, adds to the attractions of the flowers. The plant grows freely in a moist tropical temperature, and produces the finest flower-heads when the stems are 10 feet or 1.5 feet long. The flowers are at their best in the month of August. In winter the leaves fall off, the plant remaining at rest until about March. Grown in a pot, the shoots produced were too weak to flower: it was only after the plant had been luxuriating in a bed of rich soil for some months that its great beauty was revealed. As a climber for large warm houses one need not desire anything more suitable than this Solanum. Seeing that the genus Solanum is one of the largest known — it numbers some 800 species — one feels surprised that so few good garden plants are comprised in it. Probably, however, the genus is rich enough in orna- mental kinds, did we only know of them. Only last year there flowered at Kew two pretty species, climbers, which, so far as I know, are new to cultivation, viz., S. pensile, a free grower, with elegant dark green foliage, and loose termmal pendent racemes of bright purple flowers ; and S. Seaforthianum, a .stove species, native of Trinidad, with pale lilac flowers in drooping clusters, almost an exact counterpart of S. jasminoides, a most useful climber for the cool house, its jjretty milk- white flowers being as charming as is suggested by its name. Amongst plants valuable for their bright- coloured fruits, we have, of course, some ex- ceptionally good Solanums, the best of them, and a favourite in almost every garden, being S. capsicastrum, the Star Capsicum. Then there is S. Melongena, the Egg Plant, an ornament of the first quality when well grown. S. corni- gerum, a remarkable annual, with curiously horned, large fruit has recently been brought into notice at Kew and elsewhere, and is worth growing along with the Egg Plant. Be- sides these, which are known to most people, there are hosts of large-growing species, trees, indeed, one might well call them, which in favourable conditions are as ornamental when in fruit as Plum or Apple trees. At the Cape and on the Riviera such kinds are abundant, wild, indeed, in considerable variety at the former place, and pleasant to look upon both in regard to foliage and fruit. They are, how- ever, inveterate sun-worshippers, refusing to thrive where the sun does not continually shine upon them. The largo-leaved species are perhaps most plentifully represented in gardens, being valu- able for what is termed sub-tropical efl'ect in summer. Some of these, as, for instance, S. marginatum, albidum Poortmani (figured in The G-vrden, Jan. 26, 1889), S. robustum, S. laciniatum, S. atro-violaceum, and S. Warsce- wiczi are amongst the finest of large-leaved, quick-growing summer plants, and when used with taste their effect is particularly good. But grouping them in enormous beds is not using them with taste, although the practice prevails in most gardens. W. W. The Orchard. FRUIT GROWING IN BRITAIN. To THE Editor of the Times. Sir, — I have been watching, from its incep- tion, the correspondence which you have pub- lished on this subject, but I fail to have noticed any discussion as to the real point of conse- quence in considering any particular culture or application of land as a profitable industry. The matter aeems to have lapsed into a contro- versy between the champions of particular varieties of certain fruits, especially Apples Lifelong experience and observation in this country, throughout the European Continent, America and Australia, have convinced me that the real cause of the decay of fruit growing in this country is its relative unfitness of climate for such perfect maturity of fruit. There is not sufficient sunlight. So long as the importa- tion of fresh fruit from more or less distant, but more favoured lands was rendered both too costly and too precarious by the length of time and high rates of freight required for convey- ance hither, there was no incentive for the transmission "f foreign fresh fruit to our market, and, therefore, home grown fruit com- manded its regular, certain, and lucrative sale. Facilities, rapidity, and cheapness of transpor- tation, seconded by simultaneous distribution of "price currents," all the world over, have entirely overborne the home grower's former sale advantage. Fruits of all kinds— and notably Apples — are not only superior in flavour, but are far better keepers (store fruits) when rijiened under a glowing, intensely bright sunlight and in dry air (to say nothing of temperature) than when matured in a comparatively opaque and humid atmosphere such as ours. Add to this that fruits cidtivated under such superior conditions cost considerably less to produce, and the result has been, and is, that, so soon aa transmarine fresh fruits could be conveyed hither quickly enough and cheaply enough to ensure delivery in good merchantable condition, and exempt Irom undue charges, they naturally supplanted home- grown fruits in command of our own market. I do not believe that fruit-growing in this country can now be revived as a really profit- able industry, or that the substitution of this or that particular variety for any other in cultiva- tion has anything to do with the question.— Edward Gibbon Swann, C.M.E. Mr. Swann is wrong in several of his assumptions, though right in saying that some- thing should be said as to what should be done. 1. Mr. Swann does not believe that "fruit- growing in this country can be regarded as a profitable industry." Fruit-growing is a profit- able industry in this country, as he would know if he looked into the matter. English-grown fruit brings splendid prices ; Cox's or Blenheim of first quality and various others pay admir- ably ; the only difficulty is getting enough of them. I have known 16s. a bushel to be given for Blenheims this year in a rural part of Sussex ! 2. He is wrong in supposing that our climate is against Apple culture. Splendid Apples are grown in the south and west of Britain and also in Ireland, and indeed in every part. There is ample sunlight for the Apple— our greatest native fruit. Our climate is much more against Pear culture, but if everything else that goes to good culture were attended to, the climate would not fail to ripen the hardiest and best kinds. 3. Apples are not better keepers when " ripened in a glowing bright sunlight." Eng- lish Apples keep admirably, and when grown in America and hot countries do not keep so well. I have gathered delicious Ribstons from the tree in Western New York (at Rochester), yet the Ribston seldom comes to us from America in anything like good condition, because the fruits are overdone by heat. The Ribston in England keeps admirably if kept rightly (a good deal of British fruit is kept too warm). Our climate, and all climates, are liable to vicissitudes that make fruit growing uncertain — even in America the Apple crop fails from time to time. The true reason of our failure to supply our own market is not our climate — it is that the French and American growers pay more atten- tion to their work and plant in a wiser way. The British orchard is often a museum of dis- eased, though picturesque, curiosities, particu- larly in the west of England. Frequently there is only one tree of a kind, so that it is not worth while to market the fruit, and when people do market it they get next to nothing for it. The real remedies are planting but few kinds in any one place, and adapting the kind to the soil and climate as far as one can. I am now speaking of people who hope to supply the markets with the best fruits. Many may have personal and local reasons for planting par- ticular kinds, but those who wish to compete with the best market fruit will do well to con- tine themselves to the selection that I give here and which has been made with much care : — Alfriston Mere de Menage Besspool (New) Northeru Greening liliiiheim Orange Reiuette Gris Bnimley's Ribston Claygate Pearmain i Stone's t'os's Orange Pippin Sturmer Dutch Mignoiine i Wellington Flanders Pippin [ Winter Queenmg Lane's Prince Albert From this list I omit good early Apples like the Irish Peach and others, interesting for other reasons, wishing to select only fruits that can rival or beat the best that come from any country. ( "auntry gentlemen and landowners of Eng- land could enormously help our fruit culture if they would bear these few things in mind. Plant a good many trees of any Apple you know to be thoroughly good. Above all things, to ensure success in the market, the English grower must "grade" the fruit, as the French and Americans do ; he should not send any but good fruit to market, and the bad fruit he now sends in the middle of his basket he should give to his pigs. Mr. Swann is wrong in supposing that the (juestion of variety has nothing to do with success ; the kind is the question of ciuestions ; it sometimes means a guinea a bushel ijistead of OS. There are so many kinds of holdings in England, from cottage gardens upwards, that entering into details of culture would be useless. The selection of right kinds is of ten-fold more 106 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 1, 1890. importance, though it should go without saying that good culture is essential. The evils are far too many sorts, many worth- less ; no sorting or grading of qualities, rubbish being often sent to market which is not worth the cost of carriage ; old, useless orchards never renewed. The idea that an orchard will last as long as an Oak wood seems to prevail. But it will not, and those who have good soil should plant trees every year, say one first-rate kind. I have now an old orchard with all the trees cut down to the ground. I mean to make up for it by planting an acre of the Blenheiai, the best Apple that grows on English soil, and as many Cox's and Ribston as I tan get on stocks that please me, with a smaller number of the sorts above- named — the best I know. — Editoe " Garden," 37, South ampUm Street, Strand, W.C. I am glad to observe the prominence which you are in so timely a manner giving in The Gaeden to the important subject of Apple cultiva- tion in this country. Having during the last few years devoted a good deal of attention to this sub- ject, and having planted nearly sixty different va- rieties— not because I consider so many are neces- sary for any one cultivator to grow, but for the sake of e.xpp>-'menting on their various qualities in my soil — 1 l^cl not a little interested in the corre- spondence that from week to week appears on the subject. I quite agree with those authorities who so strenuously advocate the severe reduction of the immense and embarrassing number of varieties at present in cultivation, and the concentration of planters' attention to those sorts only the perpetua- tion of which would be a " survival of the fittest." Like all other truths, this one may, however, be capable of being carried too far, and a too rigorous curtailment may in consequence be adopted to the exclusion of some exceedingly useful and profitable sorts. It is pretty universally admitted that there are three English Apples— the Ribston Pippin, Cox's Orange Pippin, and Blenheim Orange— that stand out prominently as the very best Apples of British production, and that these when well grown are fully capable of competing favourably with the very best varieties of other countries. It is also pretty freely acknowledged that two of these kinds labour under disadvantages, so far as the icuportant con- sideration of profit to the cultivator is concerned— the Ribston on account of its capricious habit and liability to canker ; the Blenheim by reason of its slowness in arriving at a bearing condition. Those, then, whose object is to secure a good return for their outlay within reasonable time should have some other strings to their bow, especially if it be desired to produce a supply covering the whole period of the Apple season, and to possess trees from which, even in comparatively unfavourable seasons, they may reasonably rely upon having a crop. If this be so, what are the kinds, new or old, that answer the nearest to this threefold require- ment, and which deserve to supplement (not to supersede) the three splendid sorts above referred to? In answer to this query, I suppose that nursery- men, like doctors, will differ to some extent at least. At a recentimportant fruit exhibition in the metro- polis I put the question to two (independently ) of the best known nurserymen and exhibitors as to which were the best dozen Apples to grow in England, having regard to the combined requirements of (1) quality, (2) productiveness, (H) profit, and the lists of these equally competent authorities coincided only in three kinds. These three were Cox's Orange Pippin, Lane's Prince Albert, and Stirling Castle, the other nine sorts in each ease being different. Thus to get at my limited dozen, twenty-one sorts were mentioned by only two authorities, and if I had gone to other equally competent judges, pro- bably many more varieties would have been men- ioned. The result of my own cultivation thus far, to- getht r with such observations and diligent Inquiries as I have been able to make, would lead me to recommend the retention of at any rate the follow- ing varieties, though not, of course, of all by any single grower. Amongst early Apples the last I would dispense with in my ground would be Duchess of Oldenburg, a truly beautiful fruit covered with a peach-like bloom, aromatic and brisk as a dessert Apple, and also good for cooking. It is not a keeping variety, but very profitable where there is a ready market, and if any Apple can be called a certain cropper this is one. Ecklinville Seedling is also most reli- able and of a strong constitution, and will often bear when most other sorts are a blank. It is a better keeper than the foregoing. Lord Suffield has gained a reputation to which my testimony can add nothing. Stirling Castle might be added, but where severe reduction of numbers is desired it is hardly needed in addition to, though it may if pre- ferred be substituted for Ecklinville. A very ro- bust, prolific and exceedingly showy Apple, though scarcely of the highest flavour, is Councillor or Yorkshire Beauty. For mid-season use New Hawthornden is valu- able and handsome. Cox's Pomona, productive and exceedingly ornamental as it hangs on the tree, and though not quite of the best quality, seems still to deserve recognition, and the old favourite Cellini, in spite of the disparagement it has recently re- ceived at the hands of some authorities, is so pro- ductive and generally useful that it is rather pre- mature just yet to vote its extinction. The new Apple Bii-marck is likely, I think, to take an impor- tant rank in this section, and the Queen, School- master, Lady Hennikcr, Golden Spire, and the little as yet cultivated Landsberger Reinette appear very promising. It is, however, in late-keeping kinds that cultiva- tors will probably ultimately find the best return for their outlay, the extensive planting of some of the best of which is even more to be recom- mended than that of the more numerous mid-sea- son varieties, and which has perhaps been too much neglected on account of the trouble and accom- modation required for the storing of the long keepers. The following I would venture to enumer- ate as about the cream of those that answer to this requirement : Bramley's Seedling, Galloway Pippin, Lane's Prince Albert, Wellington, Mere de Menage, Alfriston, I'.ssspool, Northern Greening, and Allen's Everlasting. Doubtless this, or any restricted list omits many exceedingly useful and desirable sorts which it would be a pity to allow to go out of cultivation; but it aims at a reasonable limitation of such varie- ties as, until the advent of an ideal all-round Apple, can hardly be dispensed with. — Geoegb BENiNa- TON, Bush Hill Park, Enfield. Grafting old Apple trees.— There are quan- tities of interior sorts of Apples grown about the country the trees of which might be profitably grafted with good varieties. Care should be taken that the trees are sutliciently healthy. Blenheim Orange will often bear quickly when grafted en old trees. This Apple does not often bear early, but when lifted and replanted every other year, I have had it commence bearing in five years after being grafted, and it has borne regularly after- wards crops of very fine fruit. I consider Cox's Orange Pippin unsurpassed by any other variety in its season. King of the Pippins is a good bearer and commences to fruit when very young. — L. Apple Lord Suffield.— This in its season is without doubt the best Apple for the kitchen we have. For several seasons our trees have not missed once, the branches of very young trees of ten requiring to be propped up to support the fruit. Its precocious nature, however, has, I think, a good deal to answer for. I find trees six years of age in perfect vigour, but when a dozen years old they begin to show signs of debility. Unsuitable soil may, perhaps, have a good deal to do with throw- ing this variety into bad condition. The trees here are growing in shallow, heavy loam resting on chalk, and were planted about twelve years ago. There are only four of this age, three pyramids and one espalier, all on the Crab stock. The pyramids have cankered badly, but there is nothing amiss with the espalier. This unhealthy condition so early is, I think, due in our case in some degree to deep planting. I have placed the roots nearer the surface, and after attending to their wants through the summer shall note the results — R. Potter, St. Clere Gardens, Kemsing, Serenoalis. BLENHEIM ORANGE APPLE. If good wine needs no bush, it is quite certain that this grand Apple will stand any amount of abuse from all fruitists who have not been successful in its culture. One writer says it is a long time in arriving at fertility. But what of that ? It is growing broader and higher every year, and when it does come into bearing it may be reckoned upon for half a century or more. This difficulty then, as in the case of Pears on the free stock, may be got over by men of each generation planting for their heirs. And so the supply will be ever increasing, as I can point to trees 50 feet in height and eighty years old still producing good crops of fine fruit. But there is yet another and a shorter way to fertility. The impatient f ruitist may graft healthy established trees of inferior sorts, and in five years he will find the Blenheim bearing good crops of magnificent Apples, which, if his digestive organs be wrong, he may eat fresh or cooked, as they will carry their own sugar. Another correspondent condemns the Blenheim because inferior sorts which commence bearing at an earlier age pay better, or have paid better ; but this may not last, as the masses soon know a good Apple when they see one, and taken at all points there is nothing to beat the Blenheim for general use. A third person condemns it because it is fastidious as to soil and atmosphere ; but there is nothing remarkable in this, as all fruits have their likes and dislikes, not excepting the common Crab. Indeed, were it not so, one of the toughest knots with which the fruit grower has to contend would be unravelled, and Cox's Orange Pippin would soon be as plentiful and cheap as Codlins and Kings. The counties of Oxford (its home), Hants and Berks are named as being particularly favour- able to its growth ; but why leave out Gloucester, Hereford, and Worcester, three counties in which the Blenheim is all that can be desired within and without? Indeed, I question if the finest and best coloured fruit ever met with is not grown on the stiff loams of the old red sandstone lying between the Severn and the Wye. — E. I had from some very old orchard trees of this grand Apple last year a superb crop ; in- deed, one so good on the whole as to lead nume- rous Apple growers to wish they had twenty trees to every one they now possess. The motto of the Apple advisers of to-day seems to be, " plant only for self." That is a peculiarly selfish doctrine. Happily, our fathers thought differently, and thus have left us a valuable legacy of fine old trees throughout the kingdom. One of my neighbours who is an experi- enced market grower of fruit avers that were he about to put down on his own land a big area of Apple trees, he would plant the greater part of it with Blenheims. He remarks, "Never mind ; if I did not live to enjoy the produce, someone would ;" and it is just that kind of large-heartedness we want to see in regard to the planting of orchard Apple trees. We have no Apple more robust, more healthy, more enduring through all sorts of seasons and in all sorts of soils. 5fo variety that once begins to crop does crop with more persistency from year to year, and, finally, no variety which produces a finer or handsomer average sample of the very best quality. If we had no other Apple in cultivation but the Blenheim, fruit need rarely be wanting from Sep- tember until May if they be properly stored. If it be shown that many varieties of Apples are far more precocious croppers, and therefore whilst young more profitable, it is none the less true that the Blenheim is in the very prime of life, full of vigour, and producing grand fruit when these precocious varieties are dead or worn out. If the planter pur- poses producing crops to furnish the early market, then he must plant Lord Suffield, Lord Grosvenor, Feb. 1, 1890.] THE GAUDEN. 107 Stirling Castle, Cellini, Sec. Perhaps he has his land for a twenty-one years' lease only, and in that case naturally wants to get as mnch out of the ground in the time as possible. Bat those who should plant Blenheims are the owners of the soil. The man who could leave on his own ground a thousand fine trees of this grand Apple, some fifteen to twentv years old, to his children, would leave them a small fortune, for every tree then would be worth at that time, if they had done well and been properly praned and cultivated, fully SOs. each ; indeed, frait to that amount would be obtained in one good s ;ason from each tree. It is sometimes advised to have dwarf trees beneath standards. The plan may do very well for the first ten years, but at the end of that time the dwarf trees should be gradually eliminated. It would be much better to have them alone, and when worn out to clear away the whole and give the ground over to vegetables for a few years. The Blenheim seems specially to do well on turf. I have found the trees to be clean and good on chalky clay and gravel alike ; they will bear ample feeding, however, and I have no doubt but that were the sewage matter which we now so persistently waste but utilised to water our old orchards in dry weather, immense benefit would result. In one case which came nnder my notice daring the past year, some large Blenheim trees were regularly watered with house slops all the season, with the result that they produced a grand sample, the finest fruit selling at 10s. per bushel ; and yet these trees are forty years old. So far as I can judge, they may be still bearing fine fruits forty years hence. It is said of the Blenheim that it produces its own sugar. I do not regard it so much as a sweet Apple as one devoid of acidity, and it is better to have little of either sugar and acidity than too much of either in an Apple. Baked, the Blenheim is indeed delicious ; that form of cooking, because the skin is stout and thus retains the entire flavour of the fruit to the last, seems to bring out all its excellent properties admirably. I have had a few sent me by a friend baked for an invalid, and they have been pronounced delicious. We want plenty of Blenheim trees planted, then well cultivated, afte rwards the fruits properly gathered and stored to induce keeping, and thus we may have a plentiful supply through the winter for the nation's wants — A. D. It has become the fashion to decry this good old favourite, one of the principal reasons for this being its shy-bearing habit during the first few years of its growth. This, however, is not the only condemnatory charge against it, as one writer further adds that it is " fastidious in respect of atmosphere as well as soil," and, altogether, what the editor of The Gaeden rightly considers the best Apple that grows in English soil (it should have been " British ") is having a poor time of it with the critics. That it is somewhat slow in arriving at a profitable state must be readily con- ceded, but is there another bad qual ty that can rightly be urged against it ? I venture t o think not. Latterly fruit culture generally, and the planting of Apple trees in particular, has almost amounted to a craze, and in my opinion the ultimate results will be, as far as a commercial speculation is con- cerned, to say the least most disappointing. Not only have the professional growers for sale limited their selections altogether in favour of those varie- ties which give quick returns, but the same rule appears to have been generally followed by several owners of large estates who wisely provide their tenantry with trees, as well as by innumerable other private planters. In how many collections are either Cox's Orange Pippin, Fearn's Pippin, Boston Rasset,Bramley's Seedling, Besspool, Striped Beaufin, Sturmer Pippin, and Blenheim Pippin in- cluded .' The two first named may perhaps be fairly well known outside the ranks of readers of the leading horticultural journals, but of how many of the rest can this be said ? The consequence of this wholesale planting of varieties known to pay the'r way quickly will eventually be such a glut of fruit in fairly plentiful years even, that it will scarcely pay to gather and convey it to the nearest town. It is the case now, and when all the trees planted during the past four years are at a good bearing size the difficulty of finding a market for the fruit will be ten times greater. Then it will be seen how short-sighted has been the policy of planting none but those varieties of precocious free-bearing habit. This has been my contention from the first, or rather since the great question of Apple-growing for profit has come so much to the front. Just about that time it appeared to be every- one's aim to foster this laudable ambition of grow- ing a sufficiency of fruit in this country, and any- thing in the shape of what appeared a discordant note in the harmony prevailing was ruled out of order. Two of my oldest and most intimate friends are both extensive growers of hardy fruit and sales- men in London markets, and if they do not best know what is wanted I should like to ask who does ? From them I long ago learnt that one bushel of Blenheim Orange, as it is most generally termed, is worth three times more than almost any other variety even in years of comparative scarcity, while in very fruitful seasons it is nearly the only well-known Apple that well repays for cultivation. The only really sensible way out of the difficulty, this meeting all cases, is to either plant or re-graft a number of young trees with Blenheim Orange and other valuable late, if somewhat shy-bearing varieties, as well as a goodly proportion of those Apples known to be the best to give quick returns. The latter should be considered only as supernume- raries, and be done away with, if need be, when the more valuable varieties have attained a good bearing age. I could point to instances where this practice was resorted to fifteen years ago, other additions on the same lines having been made annually since. For the past sis years the naturally grown standards of Blenheim Orange have been fairly productive, and, thanks to an unimpaired constitution, these trees will continue to improve in fruitfulness and value. With regard to the fastidiousness of the Blenheim Orange, I hold this to be simply imaginary, or at any rate it is very much less marked than its detractors would have it appear ; in fact I consider the Blenheim to be one of the most accommodating in habit of all Apples. If Mr. Hibberd had taken the trouble to look through the report of the Apple conference at Chiswick, he would have seen that Blenheim Orange was one of the most popular varieties either for cooking or dessert with all who sent in reports or selections, and if the two qualities are combined it must head the list. From all parts of England, Scotland, and Wales the reports were substantially unanimous in giving front rank to Blenheim Orange, and Mr. Malcolm Dunn in his paper on Apples and Pears actually describes it as a "free bearer, and one of the best and most useful of Apples." I have practised gardening in eight widely divergent counties of England, and have visited many more, and in no one instance have I met with a locality where, if Apples could be grown at all, Blenheim Orange failed. There may be localities where it is both largely and well grown, and I could mention several, but this is principally due to the fact of its merits being more fully recognised in those particular districts, and abundance of trees planted accordingly. That the character of the tree and fruit varies considerably I readily concede, even in a radius of four miles, but in this respect it does not materially differ from King of the Pip- pins, Cox's Orange, and other well-known varie- ties. I hold that if standard trees of Blenheim Orange on the Crab stock are not unduly pruned they will arrive at a bearing state, say, in the course of eight or ten years, and that when good fruit are stored in an untainted atmosphere and quite clear of straw or hay, there are no Apples, imported or otherwise, not even excluding New- town Pippin, that can equal it in quality, either cooked or eaten raw, from Christmas to well into February. It is worth waiting for. — W. Igoulden. Filbert bushes. — If the crop of nuts this year is not large, it will not be for want of catkins, as never do I remember seeing the bushes so full of them as they are at the present time, and as the weather has been so mUd and favourable for the ripening aud dis- persion of the pollen, the female flowers, which are also showing in great abundance, must become im- pregnated, and a safe set, as a matter of course, follow. After this has taken place, I do not suppose that frost does any harm ; and if not a crop, and that a heavy one, may now be regarded as a certainty in most districts. — S. D. APPLES. Those who have had much to do with the cultiva- tion of Apples in different localities, even where the conditions may be set down as favourable to Apple culture, cannot fail to have noticed how the difference in soil and climate affects some varieties more than others. I have met with people ready to express a decided opinion in respect to some particular sorts, and when asked to give the reasons for their conclusions, it turned out that these were arrived at from experience gained in the single locality where they had lived all their lives. Needless to say, such evidence is of little value in deciding the merits of Apples, as of most kinds of hardy fruit. Yet it can only be on such grounds that any difference of opinion can exist as to the merits of Blenheim Pippin, though, like other kinds, it is to some extent affected both in the growth of the trees and the size and quality of the fruit by the locality; still it succeeds in most parts of England. Like several other sorts in which the trees attain more than ordinary size. It naturally does not come so soon into bearing as the more precocious kinds, especially when grafted on the Crab or ordinary free stocks, which I main- tain are more suitable for the large growing varie- ties than any of the dwarfing stocks. There is one way of inducing Blenheim and other large growing sorts to fruit early that has not yet been adopted so freely as it might have been. The natural outcome of the indiscriminate planting which has been followed through the length and breadth of the land of good, bad, and indifferent sorts — often the two latter — ha§ resulted in numbers of full-sized trees, or such as are approaching that state, which are healthy, if to some extent weakened by overcrowd- ing of the branches and neglect in other ways. The advice one usually hears in such cases is to grub up the trees and plant better sorts. This ad- vice may be very well where usefulness is looked upon as of less account than appearance, and where everything in a garden or orchard must be trim and ship-shape. But it is not a wisa course to follow. Those who have had much to do with the cultivation of hardy fruit will have seen what can be done in the way of renewing old Apple trees, that had got into the condition de- scribed, by heading back. Where judgment is brought to bear on the work so as to avoid heading in too closely, new prolific heads, as free of growth and as bright and clean in the bark as if the trees were young, may be had in much less time than it takes young trees to bear anything worth naming. If in place of confining the work to removing the heads of the trees they are grafted with the Blen- heim or any other desirable kind that is slow in coming into bearing, at the end of half-a-dozen years they will be in a condition to carry crops such as it would take young trees twice the length of time to arrive at a state to produce. This is no new idea, but a fact that has been proved in times and places without number. But it is not so often acted upon as it might be. When heading back trees that had got into the condition in ques- tion, if the variety was not one that it was desir- able to keep, I have always taken ailvantage of the opportunity and grafted it with a sort that was slow in coming into bearing. T. B. Apple Bramley's Seedling.— I quite agree with "J. L.'s" reference (tiAEUEN, January 25, p. 71) to this fine Apple. It is one of the best cooking Apples and one of the latest keepers. It is, moreover, a free bearer, at least so far as my experience is concerned. When in Lincolnshire the other week I saw some remarkably fine samples of it offered for sale at a country town market by a farmer's wife. The Apples were large, of good shape, and very fine, and appeared as if they would 108 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 1, 1890. keep for a long time to come. In reply to a ques- tion, the woman told me that it was the best Apple they grew, and although the trees were young, they had never failed to produce a good crop since the second year from planting. The price asked by the vendor was 3s. per stone, and buyers were plentiful at that rate. — C. Trees and Shrubs. THE ANGELICA TREE. (ARALIA 8PIN0SA.) Two good qualities at least, late flowering and the retaining of its large compound leaves till frost sets in, render this handsome and distinct North Ameri- can shrub, or small growing tree, one of particular value for ornamental planting. Flowers are few and far between in our parks and gardens by mid- October, but if the weather is at all mild, the huge panicles of bloom of this Aralia are conspicuous, while the large and much-divided leaves are full of beauty, even in those cold and cheerless days. I often think that planters are far too apt to for- get the value of these late-blooming and hardy foliaged shrubs, for it must be admitted that a tree or shrub that remains in all its summer beauty long after the majority of these have become bare and uninteresting is well worthy of encouragement, and deserves at least a fair share of attention. That it is quite hardy, a rapid grower, and an un- usually free-rooting plant will be admitted by every- one who has a specimen, and I question much whether half a dozen persons can report unfavour- ably of the behaviour of the tree in this country, the southern portion at least. Suckers, too, are usually produced in such abundance that propaga- tion is very simple, all that is required being to cut these off with a spade and treat them to a year's coaxing in the nursery border. They soon respond to transplanting and good treatment, and are after a year fit for planting in the permanent positions. Not at all uncommon is it during severe winters for the stems to be partially or wholly cut back, but this seems only to stimulate the plant to throw out a greater number of stronger shoots in the follow- ing spring. If left alone, a single plant will in a few years form a large mass, and where plenty of room can be afforded, it is a good idea to let Nature have her own way, for the appearance of a great clump of this Aralia, whether in flower or leaf, certainly must not be despised. True, the indivi- dual flowers are inconspicuous, but then the much-branched panicles on which they are pro- duced are visible for a long distance away, and remind one somewhat of those of the Dimorphan- thus mandschuricus. Anyone may have a specimen of this Aralia in his grounds, so far at least as the quality of the soil is concerned, for about this it does not appear to trouble, thriving and flowering freely where other less showy and distinct kinds of shrubs require leaf-mould and coaxing to get them to grow. Around London there are a few good specimens of the Angelica tree, but still it is a rare and neglected shrub. In planting this Aralia, it is necessary to allow sufticient space for perfect development, for it is noticeable how puny and deformed the leaves appear when the plant is hemmed in and choked up by other trees. A. D. W. Early flowering' shrubs. — In addition to those named by " E H." (p. 65), I would recommend Amelanchier Botryapium and A. florida; the former variety blooms very early grown as a tall standard, and if planted so that it has a good background of dark evergreen subjects, it shows to perfection. A. florida is very effective planted three or four together in the shrubbery, standard trained, allowing free growth without any pruning. Cercis siliquastrnm (Judas tree) is not often seen in gardens ; the flower- ing leafless trees with the bright purple flowers are interesting. Lonicera tatarica, with its pale pink, bell-shaped blossoms freely produced, is an attrac- tive shrubbery plant. Berberis Beali is the earliest to flower of any of the Barberries. It has been flowering here since the middle of December, and is a conspicuous object in the shrubbery ; whereas, the common Aquifolium is only just burstinginto flower. Rhododendron dahuricum commences to blossom in February and is very showy when seen at a dis- tance; four or five plants have a brilliant effect, the rose-coloured flowers being exceedingly showy in a bed in which Kalmias, Gaultherias, Azaleas, &c., may be growing. Kerria japonica is another bright flower when in perfection, its bright orange-coloured rosette like flowers are so freely produced. Garrya elliptica must not be forgotten, it being an exceed- ingly effective shrubbery plant, as well as useful for a wall. By New Year's Day its catkin-like flowers are bursting into bloom. — S. Euonymuses against ■walls.— The Japanese forms of Enonymus are fairly hardy in the southern counties, but are not often turned to so good an account as they might well be. This, however, does not apply to the neighbourhood of Wimborne, Dorset, as I noticed several instances where the fronts of cottages have been very neatly clothed with them. At Canford Manor the small silver variegated E. radicans is largely bedded out, while against the front of the gardener's house there is quite a large tree, and very bright and pretty it looks now and at all times. The more showy E. latifolius albus is similarly located, and 1 also observed it in other positions where neat, yet very ornamental wall plants are needed. — I. Black Walnut in America.— One of the largest specimens of Black Walnut, says Garden and Fnreit, probably ever sent to an eastern market in the log may now be seen in the timber yard of Messrs. Johnson Bros., 385. Albany Street, Boston. The tree which produced it grew near the falls of Kenawah, in West Virginia, on the line of the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad. The trunk, which measured 64 feet to the first branches, has been cut into five lengths ; the butt log, the centre of which is hollow from decay, measures at the base 8^^ feet across. The diameter of the log, cut 25 feet from the ground, is i feet 2 inches, and that 50 feet from the ground has a diameter of 3 feet 11 inches in one direction and 3 feet in the other. The upper end of the fifth log, at a point 61 feet from the ground, where the trunk had been a good deal flat- tened, measuies 4 feet 1 inch through one diameter, and 2 feet 9 inches through the other. These measurements are all made inside the bark. A thousand feet of lumber have been cut from the main branches, and the five trunk logs are estimated to contain 10,000 feet. The wood in the butt log outside the central cavity is beautifully curled and marked. A superficial examination of the annual layers of growth shows that this great tree has grown on the whole with wonderful rapidity, and that it is probably less than 300 years old. Sweet-scented Honeysuckles. — Although the number of shrubs that flower during the winter is limited, we have among them three kinds whose flowers possess delicious fragrance. One of these, Lonicera fragrantissima, is now well in flower, as also is the allied L. Standishi, and a good opportu- nity is thus afforded one of noting the points of difference between them. For covering a fairly high wall L. fragrantissima is to be preferred, as it is more of a climbing habit than Standish's Honey- suckle, though in the case of a low wall this last is equally desirable. The other respects in which they differ are that L. Standishi has ovate leaves that are when young hairy on both surfaces, while when mature the upper side is almost smooth. It is also nearly, if not quite, deciduous, while L, fragrantissima will often retain many of its leaves during the winter. This last has also quite glabrous foliage. The third winter flowerer is Chimonanthus fragrans and its variety grandiflorus, whose starry blossoms are so deliciously fragrant, that when the plant is trained near the dwelling-house, their scent may he readily detected indoors, especially during sunshine. A very desirable combination is furnished by planting L. fragrantissima and the winter-flowering Jasmine inclose proximity to each other, so that the branches of the two will become intertwined, and flowering as they do both at the same time, a very pretty winter picture is thus formed.— H. P. Dwarf early-flowered Rhododendrons. — There are a few early-flowering forms of Rhododen- dron that from their dwarf habit and the profusion in which their blossoms are borne are especially valuable for flowering under glass during the first months of the year. One of the best is R. prjecox, that produces comparatively large blossoms of a pale lilac tint. This Rhododendron is the result of intercrossing the pretty little purple- flowered R. dahuricum, which is a native of Europe, with the Himalayan R. ciliatum. Both of these last-named are also very ornamental under glass at this season, the little R. ciliatum bearing its blush-coloured bell-shaped blossoms in great profusion, while the European R. dahuricum is represented in our gardens besides the typical form by the variety atrovirens, the flowers of which are deeper in colour than those of the species. Another of the same class is R. Early Gem, raised in Messrs. Veitch's nursery, Coombe Wood, its parents being the hybrid R. prsecox and the dark-coloured form of R. dahuricum. In Early Gem, the flowers, which are produced in the greatest profusion, are of a bright rosy-purple colour, and are of a large size for the plant on which they are borne. Though only noted above as desirable subjects for flowering under glass, these Rhododendrons are very beautiful for blooming in the open ground, or rather in a spot where sheltered from sharp frosts, as from their early-flowering qualities the spring frosts often injure the blossoms. The shelter afforded by neighbouring bushes or trees will often do much towards saving the flowers from injury. — H. P. Ferns. BRITISH FERNS AS TOWN PLANTS. Although there are no more useful plants in existence for decoration than our hardy British Ferns, yet, singular as it may appear, they are not valued as they should be. They are the best of all plants for town gardens, in which their graceful fronds keep fresh and green where ordinary bedding plants could not exist. The usefulness of Ferns in a cut state is ad- mitted, else they would not be brought to mar- ket so largely. It is, however, to their value under cultivation that I wish to direct atten- tion. In stands in sitting-rooms, even in the darkest streets, British Ferns will remain fresh and continue to throw up their cheerful-looking green fronds year after year. Small gardens, too, even though surrounded by high walls or fences (as in the annexed illustration), might be made attractive simply by the introduction of a few Ferns. The great drawback to British Ferns appears to be that they can be bought cheaply, or can be had for the trouble of carry- ing home after a day's ramble among country lanes. In nearly every house the inmates of which are fond of flowers will be found a War- dian ca.se, or a pan covered by a bell-glass, in which a few exotic Ferns are vainly striving to live and look healthy. Such Ferns receive every attention ; their glass covers are now and then removed to give them air, and yet, in point of freshness and greenness, they cannot be compared with hardy native Ferns which only require a little water to keep them in good health. For small stands, the best suited are Asphnium Adiantum-nigrum, A. marinum, A. Trichoraanes,BlechuumSpicant, and Poly podium vulgare. These are all dwarf kiuds which make very efl'ective table ornaments if placed in 10- inch seed-pans, the surface of the soil being covered with fresh wood Moss. Should an or- dinary pan not be considered sufficiently orna- Feb. 1, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 109 mental, one of a rustic cliraacter, which ia generally covered by a bell-glass, may be ob- tained. For window boxes, varieties of a more robust growth than those just named should be chosen, say such kinds as Athyrium Filix-fttmina, Polysticluim aculeatum, Lastrea dilatata, L. Filix-mas, Polystichum augulare, Osmunda re- galis, Scolopendrium vulgare, and others of a similar character. These look well placed in halls, and are not readily injured by the draughts to which they are there subjected. The roots of such Ferns as these, though lifted from a hedgerow, and planted even in some London back-yard, push up fronds in spring as fresh as if they had never been disturbed. Most Ferns in the growing season require plenty of water, though even on this point they are very accom- confident that they would not be disappointed with the result. In some little London gardens I have seen hardy Ferns in excellent condition, and, if well attended to, they last good for years. H. ARRANGING THE HARDY FERNERY. A COLLECTION of hardy Ferns is interesting at all sea.sons of the year. The deciduous species are all dormaut now, of course, but the ever- green varieties, in a sheltered fernery, never altogether lose their effectiveness. In arranging the positions for the different kinds of Ferns, their requirements as to soil, shade, moisture, or exposure should be well thought out, so that each plant may have a suitalile position. This matter is often lost sight of when planting the Ferns, and the delicate kinds perish in con- Hardy Ferns in a London garjea. modating. I have seen plants of Asplenium Adiantum-nigruni growing so near the edge of water that their roots have been in it, and I have seen it also on hillsides growing equally well, overhung by rocks, which must have screened it even from rain. Out of all the Ferns just enumerated the one which revels in dampness mure than any of the others is As- plenium Triohomanes. Of this elegant little Fern I have seen some fronds quite a foot in height when growing near water. Amongst other kinds the Parsley Fern (Allosorus crispus) should not be forgotten. It is dwarf in habit, has bright foliage, and even when planted in a pan has an excellent effect. Townspeople, who do not find ordinary plants thrive with them so satisfactorily as they could wish, would do well to obtain a few hardy Ferns from the country to take their places. Were they to do this, I feel sequence. All Ferns with two or three excep- tions grow best in a deep loamy soil, more or less lightened and enriched with peat or leaf- mould. The exceptions will be referred to later on in the list 1 propose giving. In arrang- ing the positions, those kinds which require spe- cial treatment should be grouped together. In a district where large pieces of sandstone can be easily obtained they may be freely used, not only for their picturesque effect, but also for the assistance they give to those plants which thrive best in a stony soil. I dislike the white, glaring flint stones sometimes employed, neither am i partial to clinkers or vitrified brick, although I am sometimes, for want of better materials, obliged to use them. Many British Ferns grow naturally on the banks in country lanes, sheltered and shaded by the growth of the overhanging branches of the hedges, where they thrive, increasing and multi- plying year after year without disturbance, unless some wandering collector discovers their habitat, and carries them off to town to convert them into money. I have seen ferneries very prettily arranged without a single stone or clinker. Where there is plenty of scope in some partially shaded spot, quiet and secluded, banks may be thrown up varying in height, suitable positions as regards soil and aspect may be easily created, intersected by winding walks with rustic steps leading from one elevation to another. Rustic bridges may span the chasms and help to create cool, shady spots for those varieties which re- quire such positions. But in making the groundwork, keep the good soil on the top and the bad stuff' at the bottom. 1 always think, where there is scope enough, the arrangement of the plants in family groups is the most satis- factory way, as it enables one to make suitable positions as regards soil that will be of a more permanent character. It is easy enough, of course, to make a hole a foot or so or over, and fill it with suitable compost for any particular plant ; but other plants soon rob it of its nutri- ment, and if this were not so, the continual action of falling showers will carry away the special value of the prepared soil, or at any rate it would not possess that permanence ot cha- racter that a good bed of such material would have. Hence, from my point of view, the system of grouping in families is the most natural, as well as the best one to meet the requirement.s of the plants. In arranging the stones in the construction of a rockery, it is better to study the well-doing of the plants than to make a puny attempt to imi- tate Nature. Very few people really do this well, but it is a comparatively ea.sy matter to arrange the stones ao that they will bo useful as shelters to the Ferns, and at the same time look more or less picturesque. In the annexed list I have not given the names of many of the va- rieties of the Lady Fern.s, Hart's-tongues, and others which have branched off into many forms from seeds, but it would be very interesting to gather together full collections and grow them side by side, and as there is no finality in anything, probably other curious and interesting forms would be evolved. List of hardy Ferns for mas.sing. — Athy- rium Filix - fcemiua (Lady Fern), A. F.-f. Fieldiai, A. F.-f. grandiceps, A. F.-f. plumosum', A. F.-f. Victoria-, A. F.-f. multitidum, A. F.-f. curonatum. A damp, but not wet, rather shady position suits this family. Plant in a bed of good loam and leaf-mould. Lastrea Filix-mas (Male Fern) is a robust growing species and will succeed anywhere ; its varieties are very interesting. The following are among the best: Lastrea Filix-mas cristata, L. F.-m. furcans, L. F.-m. Barnesi, L. F.-m! polydactyla, L. F.-m. crispa, L. F.m. PLndari. To a large extent the above are evergreen but there are Lastreas which are deciduous. The Marsh Fern (Lastrea Thelypteris) is a deciduous species, as is also Lastrea montana. These do best in a damp situation. Blechuum Spicant (Hard Fern) is a dwarf, handsome Fern, always fresh and green. The species is very common. I have found it wild in many counties in woods and in deep shady country lanes. I have also found it growing freely on open exposed banks, so that it is not particular as to position. The following varieties shduld be grouped with the type : B. S. cristatum, B. S. coucinnum, B. S. heterophyllum, B. S. imbricatum, B. S. projec- tum. I find I-have omitted to mention Lastrea dilatata, rather an interesting form that has already produced several varieties, and some- no THE GARDEN. [Feb. 1, 1890. thing more might be looked for if all are grouped together ; L. d. cristata, L. d. lepidota, L. d. Chan- terise. Plant in loam and leaf-mould on a shady bank. Lastrea spinulosa should be added. Os- munda regalis (Royal Fern), is a very striking species. To have this in really fine form it should be planted in a bog, but I have seen it do well in a bed of peat with a layer of clay beneath. Where a plentiful supply could be had near, the crested form, O. r. crispa, should be grown, though hardly so efl'ective as the type. There are two distinct classes of Polypodium, one deciduous and the other evergreen. Polypo- dium Dryopteris, P. Phegopteris, P. calcareum, and P. alpestre are deciduous, and should be planted in loam and peat in a cool partially shaded situation. The evergreen Polypodies are varieties of the common species, and will grow freely on old stumps of trees or among stones in good loam with just a dash of leaf-mould. Among the most distinct are, Polypodium vul- gare cambricum (Welsh Polypody), P. v. cris- tatum, P. v. crenatum, P. v. omnUacerum. The Polystichums, or Shield Perns, are among the most interesting and beautiful. P. angulare is a most useful species, and has produced a large number of varieties, as P. a. cristatum, P. a. proliferum, P. a. grandiceps, P. a. gracilo, P. a. imbricatum, P. a. lineare. Plant in good loam, and work in a few pieces of sandstone on a bank where they will be sliaded from the middaysun. The Scolopendriura (Hart's- tongue) is one of the most interesting groups. The finest specimens are found iu good soil near water, overhanging it as it were. Scolopendrium vulgare crispum, S. v. ramosum majus, S. v. subcomutum, S. v. contractum, S. v. digi- tatum, 8. V. multifidum, S. v. Kelwayi ; Asplenium Adiantum-nigrum (Black Maiden- hair), A. A. acutum, A. fontanum, A. refractum, A. Trichomanes, A. T. cristatum. Plant the Asple- niums in loam and leaf-mould rather high up on a bank in a well-drained position. A. Tricho- manes will grow on an old wall. I have had it in great abundance on the wall of a Haw- haw. Cystopteris fragilis and its varieties are very pretty, and should have a special position made for them, with peat and loam and plenty of stones and grit introduced in the shale. AUosoruscrispus (Parsley Fern) is a very pretty dwarf species ; treatment like the preceding. Ceterach offioinarum, plant among stones in stone brash mixed with peat. There should always be some means of obtaining water in a fernery. It might be so arranged that a rill could be led from one of the highest points, circling round the banks till it fell into an irregu- lar basin at the lowest point, where bog plants and aquatics could be planted or plunged in pots. E. H. Wallflowers as pot plants. — When visiting a suburban market garden the other day I was somewhat surprised to see an unusual number of Wallflowers in pots. These, the owner informed me, were grown chiefly for local purposes, as the desaand in the neighbourhood was becoming almost insatiable. Owners of small gardens, with a greenhouse or conservatory attached to their residences, had the last year or so taken a strange liking to the Wallflower as a pot plant, and to supply the demand a large number of plants had to be grown. So much for small gardens ; but why are Wallflowers not more extensively grown in large establishments as pot plants ? Surely the quantity of bloom, useful for a variety of purposes, they produce repays for the labour bestowed upon them. The plants require no further atten- tion after they are potted in the autumn and placed in cold frames, beyond an occasional water- ing, until they are transferred to the greenhouse in early spring. They will never fail to bloom freely, and half-a-dozen plants will fill a house with a delightful fragrance, which, mingled with that from the Hyacinth, Mignonette, and other sweet-smell- ing flowers, is really charming. — C. L. Stove and Greenhouse. APHBLANDRAS. These shrubby stove- flowering plants are fine features in any collection when well grown. When in the form of specimen platits they are very eft'ective during the months of September and October, and well repay for the trouble bestowed upon them. A. cristata is usually one of the earliest to flower. I remember to have .seen this fine kind with seven or eight of its terminal heads of flowers in full beauty at one time, thus making a fine display. It was this kind which Mr. Koss showed so well from Pendell Court during the past autumn. It is two or three shades darker in colour than A. aurantiaca, which is well calculated to succeed it during October. A. aurantiaca Roezli is especially adapted for later flowering than the type. I often wonder why this beautiful dwarf plant is not more grown than it is. It does not appear to be so well known now as it was ten or fifteen years ago. Had I to provide a quantity of choice plants again during the winter months tor decoration iu a small state, I would grow it by the dozen. Taken all iu all, it is one of the best of its genus for growing in ([uantity, as its season of flowering may be advantageously prolonged. Old plants will come into u.«e during the month of December, whilst younger ones will prolong the season until the end of January, or even later. I have succeeded best with this Aphe- landra when growing it from seed, which can be obtained in sufHcient quantity from one or two healthy plants. A close watch must, however, be kept upon the seed vessels when arriving at maturity, for they will when fully ripe burst open and scatter the seed, which, unlets it lalls upon congenial soil for germinating, will be lost. The best plan is to cut oft' the old spikes to save this loES, and lay them out upon a sheet of paper sufficiently large to catch the seed when it falls out of the small pods. The seed when ripe .should be sown to secure a good season's growth, the plants afterwards pricked off, and when large enough transferred to small pots, and eventually flowered in 45-inch pots, or smaller if preferable. These young plants should be kept near the glass, otherwise they are inclined to become more drawn than in the case of old cut-back plants. Well-grown plants of this species make beautiful subjects for small vases when they are in flower, the orange-scarlet colour of which associates so well with the silvery -grey .suflusing their leaves, which should, if the plants have received no check, clothe the plant to the rim of the pot. A. nitens, with foliage of a deep metallic green, is quite a contrast to Roezl's variety. The plant is not quite so compact in habit, yet it is well worthy of being grown. Its flowers are of a glowing scarlet, and make a good dis- play during the dull season of the year. A later introduction is Aphelandra chrysops ; this variety is more robust than either of the two preceding kinds ; its foliage is beautifully variegated, whilst the inflorescence, both bracts and flowers, is of a bright yellow colour. This kind was introduced from Brazil, while the others named are chiefly from Mexico and the West Indies. Prop.vgatign. I have already alluded to propagation by means of seeds. Where these are not to be had, cuttings should be taken after the plants have been started into growth in the spring and struck in a brisk heat, but not one that is too heavily charged with atmospheric moisture, yet this must be well provided for in the soil. These cuttings should be struck singly in small pots to save them from a future check at the root, and then be potted on when well rooted. The old stools should, after flowering, be kept somewhat dry at the root, and also be placed in a cooler position where they will be safe if the temperature does not fall below 65°. Before starting into growth they should be pruned hard back, just as one would do with a Poin- settia, otherwise they will become leggy. When repotted, the old balls should be reduced and the plants placed in smaller pots, giving one shift for a medium plant, and two for larger ones afterwards. Firm potting with the hands (not with a stick) will suit them well. They prefer a soil composed of good turfy peat and loam iu about equal proportions, with silver sand or old mortar rubbish added thereto. The mealy bug, amongst insects, will be their greatest enemy, but this can be overcome by dint of continual perseverance. J. H. Callas from Sewardstone.— Under the above heading in The Garden, January 18, you ask for a few cultural details of how we grow Callas here, and I willingly comply with your request. Having to grow them for conservatory decoration, I prefer to grow them as specimens, as they are more effective and do not take up so much room as single crowns. About the middle of May I turn the plants out of the pots, reducing the ball and removing some of the suckers, so that they may be potted up in the same sized pots. I use 14-inch pots for the largest. Having been shaken out, they are planted in a border under the shade of a wall with a north-east aspect, this position seemingly suiting them better than a more open one. They need but little further attention, an occasional watering, if the season is dry, being all they rt quire. I pot them up early in September in loam, leaf-mould, and a little well- rotted manure, and stand them in the shade for a few days. Stimulants are given three times a week, liquid manure from the farmyard answering well. With this treatment the plants will flower for three months. For the decoration of the drawing-room, if the spikes are cut with long stalks and arranged with leaves in a deep vase, the effect is most pleasing.— J. Nicholson, Sen-ardsione Loilye. ■Violets in frames damping. — In the vicinity of towns there are many complaints heard this season of the failure of double Violets in frames. It has become the fashion hereabouts for the owners of nearly every garden where there are any frames or pits available to fill two or more lights with the Marie Louise every autumn, and in some instances Comte de Brazza's white is also grown. This season's ex- perience, however, will considerably damp their ardour, as failures are far more numerous than suc- cesses. Each time I have been consulted about this much to be regretted collapse, for that is what it amounts to in some cases, I have ventured to ex- press the opinion that the Violets have been coddled, or in other words not nearly enough air has been admitted to the plants. If all accounts are true, this would not appear to be the true cause of failure in some instances, but in others I think it must be attributed to not raising the plants well up to the light, or nearly close to the glass in the first instance, and omitting to give abundance of air whenever the weather permitted. Some of the town failures are clearly traceable to a long spell of foggy weather and the inevitable accompaniment of an impure atmosphere, coupled with the somewhat weakly or soft growth of the plants before they were transplanted to their present quarters. When the mildew, or whatever it may be termed, once sets in, it is no easy matter to prevent it spreading right through a whole frame or pit of plants. The foot- stalks first collapse and then the decay quickly affects the hearts. The only apparent remedy is to Feb. 1, 1890.] THE GAEDEN. Ill pull ont the few plants first aSected, this sometimes effectually stopping the spread of the disease, but a close look-out has also to be kept for any trace of the disease in those reserved, the affected leaves being picked off and destroyed directly they are seen. We have about a dozen large lights filled with Violets, and these are not placed in the best of positions, yet we have not lost a dozen plants, while fine flowers are now abundant. Our plants are not so strong as usual, but being planted high, given good soil and plenty of air whenever this can safely be admitted, and sufficient protection from frosts afforded, they have, on the whole, done and are doing well. It must in fairness be added that oui garden is situated weU away from any smoky town. —I. M. H. A NOTE OX CORREAS. When the various hard-wooded greenhouse or New Holland plants were in full popularity the different Corrcas were then extensively grown, their value as flowering subjects being enhanced by the fact that they bloom during the winter and early spring months. Since that time, however, in common with many other plants of similar requirements, they have gradually almost dropped out of cultiva- tion till within the last year or two, when the de- mand for them seems to have increased, and there- fore hopes may reasonably be entertained that we may before very long again see many representa- tives of the Cape and Australian hard-wooded plants occupying a better position in our gardens. Of all the Correas the first place must be given to C. cardinalis, a species with a profusion of bright scarlet blossoms, tipped with light green. The one great drawback in the culture of this Correa is the fact that it is very liable to run up thin and naked, and to obviate this as far as possible the plants should be freely stopped during their earlier stages, while they should at all times (but more especially during the winter) be thoroughly exposed to the light. Despite the many severe articles condemn- ing grafting that have from time to time appeared in The Garden, this Correa forms a more satis- factory specimen when grafted on the free-growing C. magnifica than it does on its own roots. I have also seen C. cardinalis in very good condition when planted out in a prepared bed in the greenhouse ; indeed, many things so treated display their true character much better than when grown in pots, though such a mode of culture is seldom carried out. The late Mr. Joad, of Wimbledon, some few years since used to be very successful with many difficult subjects when treated in this manner. The Correas need a good open soil, and a compost consisting principally of sandy peat just meets their requirements. In potting them thorough drainage should be ensured, and the soil pressed down firmly, while as the roots are by no means vigorous care should be taken that the pots are not too large. To propagate them from cuttings the shoots should be taken during the spring, just as they become slightly woody, and being cut off clean at a joint and the bottom leaves removed, they should be dibbled into a prepared pot or pots and covered with a beU-glass till rooted. Where it is intended to graft the weaker varieties it should be carried out towanls the end of spring or early in the summer, the stocks employed being young, free-growing plants in small pots, and it side-grafted near the ground, a perfect union will soon take place. H. P. Fog and indoor flowers. — Primula flori- bunda had been flowering with me for a long time even in the smoke of London till about a fortnight since, when a few days of daik foggy weather com- pletely destroyed the foliage, while the flowers were almost uninjured. The plants, however, re- ceived so severe a check, that many of them have already died ; indeed I think very few will survive. The Japanese P. obconica resists fog better than its Himalayan relative, though even it suffered a good deal. Besides the above the fog injured many other greenhouse plants, among those most affected being the different Indian Azaleas, that in many cases lost the greater part of their leaves and a large quantity of flower buds. The leaves appeared as if they had been badly scorched, and have con- tinued to drop up to the present time, while in the case of many subjects that were showing flower the unopened buds were totally destroyed. — H. P. "\'ALLOTAS FROM SEED. In reply to "M. E." (The Garden, January IS, p. 68), Vallotas are easily raised from seeds, but I have found that they rarely come up if not sown as soon as ripe. Vallota seeds seem to lose their vitality more quickly than those of any- thing I have had to do with, although I think that in the case of all bulbous flowers, whether hardy or tender, it is of the highest importance that the seed should be sown as soon as ripe. There is a rule with this class of flower that the seeds come up just at the time when the parent bulbs start into growth. This fact should guide those who wish to raise young plants from seeds, which it is evident should be in the soil in readi- ness to sprout when the natural grovring time of that particular bulb comes round. Thus Daffodils sown in September are now through the soil, just in the same stage of growth as old bulbs in the open ground. The Vallota belongs to a class of plants that has but few representatives in cultiva- tion. It blooms in autumn, and the pods swell all through the winter in a low temperature, ripening off with the advent of fine spring weather. The two hardy Cyclamens, europium and hedeiav folium, are of the number. Their seed pods are now plump, and the seeds will ripen off when the fine weather comes, and it is the same with Val- lotas. In a cool house the pods are green and con- tinue to swell slowly all through the winter months, which fact is a positive proof of how wrong it is to dry this bulbous flower off. If the roots shrivel and the leaves turn yellow, the seed-pods will also shrivel up, and thus the ends of Nature are de- feated. It is the nature of this plant to form its seeds when most things are at rest, and it is there- fore unnatural to deprive it of moisture at that time. I have at the present time a number of pods that are swelling up and that will ripen about March. They are in a cool house, but in a tem- perature of 50° they would of course be more advanced. I do not, however, advise putting the plants in warmth in winter, as I think that they like several months' complete rest. As soon as the capsules open the seeds should be sown in light sandy soil, covering the surface with Moss and putting a piece of glass on it. They come up in the course of about a month in a temperature of 00°. If the seeds are stored away for several weeks only, the chances are that they will not come up. J. C. B. Spiraea astilboides. — The specimens of this SpiiiT'a exhibited at the last meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society showed that this Spiraea can be forced into bloom early in the year, but for this purpose it is very unlikely that the newer intro- duction will be so largely grown as S. japonica, which is to be met with in every garden. S. astil- boides is still an expensive plant, while S. japonica may now be obtained at a cheap rate, being im- ported into this country every year in large quan- tities. S. astilboides is seen at its best when grow- ing in a moist spot outdoors, and it also forms a grand specimen for flowering under glass if strong clumps are obtainable. They should not be forced, but with the protection of a frame or greenhouse fine spikes of bloom will be developed somewhat earlier than on plants in the open ground. This Spiraea is slowly, but surely making its way in favour, having been first exhibited by Mr. Bull in 1882, and distributed by him two years later.— H. P. Uroskinnera spectabilis. — This native of Mexico is a plant of a half shrubby character, that in this country requires the temperature of a stove or Intermediate house, where it flowers during the i early months of the year. The oblong-shaped leaves are about 3 inches or 4 inches long, and are densely covered with whitish hairs, while the flowers, which are borne in terminal clusters, bear a considerable amount of resemblance to those of a Peitstemon, being about lA inches in length and three-quarters of an inch across the mouth. The colour of the blossoms is a deep mauve on the out- side and white within. It is by no means a novelty and is quite a rare plant in gardens, yet it forms not only an interesting, but a showy subject. It is of easy culture, and can be readily propagated from cuttings of the young growing shoots taken anywhere during the spring months, and if grown on freely afterwards they will bloom the following year. A mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand will suit it perfectly. — T. BILLBERGIA SANDERIANA. I recently noted this species flowering in a private collection. The plant was, I believe, imported by Mr. Sander, of St. Albans, some few years back and named by Mr. Morren in his honour, although it appears to have been first discovered at an earlier date. This plant is another illustration of the great beauty exhibited by the genus Billbergia, and affords another example of the richness in species of its native country, Brazil, this having been found in the province of Rio Janeiro. It is a plant of robust habit with strap-shaped obtuse leaves, which are arranged in a rosulate fashion ; they are bright green on the upper side, slightly scurfy beneath, and strongly armed on the edges with stout slightly recurved blackish spines. The spike rises from the centre and is pendent, bearing many flowers which are mostly arranged in groups of two and three together, and are surrounded with medium- sized pale rose-coloured bracts ; the flowers are long and tubular, the calyx greenish-white tipped with pale blue, the tube of the flower greenish-yellow, the apical expanded portion being of a somewhat deeper blue, the stamens orange-yellow. A great field is open to British gardeners to make these plants a speciality. At present we have not a single garden in the country where these plants are grown and tended with any care. Each plant i-hould stand ont distinctly and be made a speciality of, as they may be seen in many of the collections in Belgium, and we sadly want a few amateurs in this country to interest them- selves in Billbergias, as many have done with Orchids. Then we should see what a fine show these plants would make at all seasons ; one or another species would be blooming, and when flower was not forthcoming to attract the eye, some species of the family possess variegation of the most exquisite description. A house of Bromeliads would be quite asdiversified and as interesting as the same space devoted to Cattleyas. Then why have we not one amongst us who makes a speciality of them .' In this family, too, there is a large field for the hybridiser, some of the most beautiful kinds in cul- tivation being the result of French and Belgian efforts in this line, but there is abundance of room left for others. W. H. G. Pavonia Makoyana.— By some writers this species of Pavonia is included in the genus Goethea, and it is usually regarded as more of a summer than a winter-flowering plant, yet where growing freely it will bloom more or less continuously throughout the year. Although the blossoms are not showy they are interesting. Like so many of its allies, this Pavonia is an erect growing, rarely branching shrub, for even if pinched back during its earlier stages it seldom pushes out more than a single shoot. The flowers, which are borne in terminal corymbs, are very singular, being com- posed of bright rosy red bracts, while the protrud- ing calyx and corolla are of a blackish purple tint. Another feature is furnished by the bright blue anthers, which are crowded together in a cluster at the contracted mouth of the flower. The second species, P. Wioti, of which a coloured rlate was given in The Garden, August i, 18s;!, differs from the last in the bracts that surround the blossoms being cut up into narrow strips, and they are also brighter in colour, while the entire flower is of a lighter hue. This last remark also applies with 112 THE GAEDEN. [Feb. 1, 1890. equal force to the foliage. The cultural require- ments of these Pavonias is by no means exacting, for they are readily propagated from cuttings after the manner of their allies, the Abutilons, and will grow freely with ordinary soil and treatment. The leaves towards the base of the plant are very liable to drop, and this tendency is greatly hastened if they are attacked by red spider, which is the prin- cipal insect pest to guard against. Liberal syring- ing daring the growing season is the best means of keeping them in check. — T. Pepinia aphelandrseflora. — This is a brilliant flowered species which is quite unlike a Bromeliad, the leaves being narrow, drooping and deep green ; the flowers are erect, borne in terminal clusters, tubular, and brilliant scarlet, with the exserted stamens rich yellow. It thrives best in small well- drained pots. I noted it flowering last Christmas, and I hope the plant may be preserved. It is one which has been greatly neglected in this country ; whereas it should be largely grown. It is a native of Peru.— W. H. G. Flowering of Camellias. — So far as I have observed, in Cornwall at all events, the attempt to force Camellias, referred to by Mr. Muir in The Garden (p. 51), has generally proved a complete failure ; the buds either drop off before they are scarcely open or the young flowers are most imper- fectly formed. The smallest possible amount of artificial heat answers best. In Cornwall, however, where they are in flower either in the open air or in an unheated conservatory from autumn until early summer, the necessity for forcing at all is consequently greatly diminished. I can also corro- borate what Mr. Muir says at the end of his note : "A gentle fire-heat to start the plant is very bene- ficial, but a week or two of this will be found quite sufficient.— W. Roberts. Aquilegia casrulea for the greenhouse.— Very lovely indeed is this Columbine in pots. If gardeners would but purchase seed, sow at once in pans, get up as quickly as possible, and when fairly strong dibble out !l inches apart into good soil, they would have a fine lot of plants to lift for pot- ting in the autumn. All could go into 4i-inch pots, as the variety is not a robust grower, and some might about the end of the year have the assistance of gentle warmth to push tbem and others coming on in ordinary greenhouse tempera- ture, whilst some planted outdoors would be later still. A score of these lovely blue and white- flowered Columbines in pots about 16 inches to IS inches in height would be charming in a green- house.— A. D. Chevalliera Germinyana.— This is another beautiful species which I saw when paying a visit to the gardens of the Comte de Germiny at Gou- ville, near Rouen. The plant has the habit of a stout growing ^chmea, and a near relative of this is the .Eshmea Veitchi, but not having access to any good modern book upon these plants I am obliged to take the names as I find them. It has long, recurved, strap-shaped leaves, which are armed at the point with a stout spine, and at the edges with a closely set row of fine spines ; the spike rises in the centre, producing on the top a dense and highly coloured mass of deep rosy red, closely imbricated bracts, which are recurved slightly and finely serrated, forming a beautiful cone. When the plant has two or three growths and all flower- ing, the beautiful effect is considerably increased. — W. H. G. Rhododendron arboreum roseum. — The typical form of this Himalayan species is fairly well known in some of the more favoured parts of this country where it thrives out of doors. It is a very variable plant both in foliage and in the colour of its flowers. There is now flowering in the temperate house at Kew a rather uncommon fifteen to twenty-five of the closely packed, bell- shaped blooms occur in each head, and each flower is 1 J inches across. The best idea of the beauty of such a plant may be obtained by turning to the issue for July 20, 1889, of The Garden, where a coloured plate is given of R. nilagiricum. This is now considered to be a variety of R. arboreum, and indeed it differs from the above only in the presence of crimson spots on the corolla and in its later flowering season. At one time the ferrugineous tomentum, which is on the under side of the leaves of both, was made a distinguishing mark between them and R. arboreum, but intermediate forms and general structural resemblance show them to be no more than variations of that species. An interest- ing feature of the plant under notice is its small size. The whole of the kinds in the arboreum group of Rhododendrons are very shy bloomers in a small state, that is, if grown from seed. The Kew plant, however (which is grown in a pot) is a grafted specimen, the scion having probably been taken from an old flowering shrub. If plants of this size could be relied on to flower this variety would certainly be one of the most useful and beautiful of winter-flowering greenhouse plants. — W. B. The seed must be well covered with soil, which should be passed through a fine sieve. Thinning should be attended to as soon as the plants are well up, and it is best not to thin them too much at first in case of a few going off. They may be gone over a second time after they have made a good start, leaving from six to eight plants in a pot. Mignonette is sometimes pricked off, but it gene- rally succeeds best when grown on and flowered, without being disturbed at the root, from the time the seed is sown. F. H. MIGNONETTE. Mignonette being such a general favourite it should receive more attention than is usually given it. In addition to the perfume of the flowers, the improved varieties are attractive, it not particu- larly showy in appearance. Although there are now a great number of varieties offered, there are only two types worthy of consideration, viz , the white and the red. In the former the petals are large and the anthers inconspicuous, while in the latter the red anthers are prominent, and the petals are smaller and of a greenish colour. It would be superfluous to give names, as the best forms have been reohristened so many times. Among market growers the dwarf red variety finds most favour, yet I think the white is equally deserving of culture, and a point in its favour is that it seems to flower better during the winter, the only drawback being that the white varieties are all inclined to grow taller than the red. Provided a good strain of seed is secured, there is not so much difficulty in growing Mignonette in pots as is generally supposed. A good rich com- post, regular attention to watering, and plenty of light and fresh air are the chief points towards success. Where seed was sown late in the autumn the young plants should now be making growth, and where it is desired to bring them on as early as possible, the best position will be on a shelf as close to the glass as possible, and where there is a free circulation of air. Later on the pots should stand on a moist bottom, but until the sun gets more powerful they will take no harm it stood on a dry shelf. Mignonette is very impatient of arti- ficial heat, especially while there is not too much daylight. A very little warmth will cause it to run up spindly and weak. Watering is perhaps the most important matter connected with the culture of Mignonette, and while the plants are small great care must be taken that they do not become satu- rated ; in fact, it is best to keep them rather dry than otherwise. As the plants increase in growth more water will be required, and by the time they begin to come into bloom they will reeing prepared for frame culture, too strongly, always supposing the plants are kept well clear of each other, but the case is very different with the Russian. These should have fairly good loamy soil, which should be made quite firm. Russian Violets succeed far better on high ground, a steep bank suiting them well. Unless planted under conditions conducive to stout growth, the plants are neither hardy nor very free flowering — at least such is my experience — and I hold it to be wiser to try for a long and abundant succession of medium sized blooms rather than risk failure for the sake of having extra fine ones. — I. M. H. GREENHOUSE DRAC^NAS. With the exception of D. congesta (which can be struck like D. gracilis) and D. rubra (the latter already included in the stove kinds for the sake of a more rapid growth), these are best calculated to do good service when of fairly good size to com- mence with, then onwards they gradually assume noble proportions and are fit associates for the finest of the Palms as permanent decorative plants for the conservatory. They can thus be grown in pots or tubs as well as planted out. Where there is plenty of head room the latter plan may be adopted with advantage, as the foliage becomes much finer and is retained in a healthy condition for a greater length of time. D. indivisa is one of the best known of its class and a plant of elegant outline. D. indivisa lineata is a variety of the pre- ceding with a much more robust habit. This va- riety is often imported in well-established plants from the Continent. D. australis is of smaller growth than either of the preceding, but distinct. D. Rumphi partakes more of the Yucca style of growth, this and D. Draco lasting a long time in good condition. The first named in this list (D. congesta) is one of the hardiest of its race as well as one of the best for room decoration in small vases, keeping better than D. rubra under those conditions. I have propagated these strong grow- ing Dracaenas from the fleshy roots and also from the tops. With large plants having heads of extra size, the latter plan is best done gradually. Start with cutting the stem half-way through close up to the foliage, then bind a little Sphagnum Moss over this incision to retain the moisture; after- wards a pot of suitable size, from U inches to 8 inches diameter, should be sawn asunder, the drain- age hole made larger, and the pot then fitted to- gether again around the stem and secured with copper wire. A support underneath can be afforded by fixing a piece of stick crosswise; then some good peat and loam should be firmly pressed down all around the stem till the pot is nearly full. Keep the soil well moistened, especially after young roots have issued into this rooting medium. Later on, when the roots have well filled the pot, an- other pot two sizes larger should be placed around the stem in a similar way, enclosing all the roots and providing room for further increase of the same. By this time the stem may be cut half way through below the pot, having in some way secured the top of the plant from toppling over. If the top be very large, another pot of larger size may be added later on in preference to removing the top entirely when the second pot is well filled with roots. In the meantime the stem should be gradu- ally severed, thus compelling the top of the plant to rely upon its newly-made roots for sustenance. This is a somewhat tedious process, but it well re- pays the trouble bestowed upon it in order to save a fine head of foliage when the plant has grown too tall for its accommodation. Frequent syring- ing and plenty of water at the roots, with shading from the son, are necessary after the plant is taken off entirely, and if a little extra heat can be given tor a few weeks so much the better. Of new Dra- caenas a prominent place must be given to D. Doucetti, a variegated form to all appearance of either D. australis or D. indivisa (probably the former). The plants thus far shown have only been of small size, but I think sufficient has been seen to predict its extensive cultivation when better known. Its foliage has a silvery margin through- out the entire length, and gives to the plant a very light and pleasing effect. If this variegation is retained as the plant increases in size it will prove very useful, as indeed it is already, being much sought after for vases. J. H. THE CAMELLIA HOUSE. I DO not remember to have seen the Camellias so full of flower and bud as they are this season, and they are much earlier than we usually get them from a cool house. We have only aimed at a minimum between 35° and 40°, and, in fact, very little fire has been used, except to keep out frost or to dry up the house quickly after watering the beds. The first blooms were cut early in December, and there is every prospect of an uninterrupted supply until the end of April. From a market point of view, the Camellia has been of little value for the last few seasons, and the gradual change of the public taste from formal flowers has prevented it from entering largely into house and table de- coration. Still, it is a useful flower, and very accept- able during the dull months of the year, and in all places where there are some old-established plants one is never at a loss for a plentiful supply of cut blooms. He who plants Camellias, plants indeed for his heirs, and it seems difficult to form any idea as to the length of time they will continue in health and vigour. The majority of our plants have been in their present quarters more than eighty years, and they seem to gain health and strength with each succeeding year. These old varieties lack the faultless form and outline that belong to the later introductions, but they are none the less acceptable in a cut state, and, indeed, the countless shades and markings of colour that are assumed by some of these old sorts are in themselves an additional recommendation. This is the case with a very old variety, that is always our earliest, known to us as French White, and from which we can cut during the season all shades of colour between a bright pink and a dead white, some flowers having quite a clear dividing line to separate the colours, while others in this same matter of colour are almost indistinguishable from Lady Hume's Blush. It is also known under the name of Edouard Guillion, and is very like, if not identical with, an old variety called pomponia japonica. Old as it is, I can tho- roughly recommend it for planting where a quantity of cut bloom is required. The old Donkelaari is too well known to need any recommendation. It is far from being a perfect flower from a florist's point of view, but it is a useful old sort for cutting, vigorous in habit, handsome in foliage, very free, and almost as erratic in its colour as the above-mentioned French White. Another old variety, somewhat in the way of Donkelaari, but considerably larger both in flower and leaf, is conspicua. Our plant is note- worthy as having come from the garden of the house that was the birthplace of Buonaparte. The old alba plena is very little behind the French White this year in the matter of earliness, and is just now full of flower. This is one of the few varieties that is still of some use as a market flower, but for home deco- ration it is not so acceptable as Lady Hume's Blush or Gup of Beauty. Both the latter have very delicate flowers, but the plants are not so robust in habit as the other inmates of the house. Woodsi and Rubens are two good old varieties in the pink and red shades. They are later than the sorts previously mentioned, and will not be in flower until the end of February. Where plants occupy a position close to the paths of the house and annual growth is strong, it is necessary sometimes to cut back rather hard to keep them within bounds, and it is advii- 114 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 1, 1890, able to do this immediately each variety is out of flower, for if left until the sun is powerful, I find that the back foliage, brought into prominence and directly under the sun's rays by the removal of the forward growths, is apt to be blistered and perma- nently injured. There is, however, little fear of such injury if the necessary pruning is seen to as early as possible and the ventilation receives care- ful attention, especially for a time after such pruning or after a heavy overnight syringing. The Camelha house does not require shading in any shape or form if all these little matters are re- membered and the plants themselves are in full health and vigour. I was in the habit of giving the plants a heavy mulching of cow manure im- mediately after pruning, but finding a stimulant at such a time had the effect of promoting a sappy and undesirably strong growth, have for the last two seasons simply mulched very lightly with a little long litter at this particular time to prevent the rapid drying of the beds under the direct influence of the sun, and reserved the stimulant until the buds are well developed. Disbudding is an important operation in the Camellia house, and does not always receive its due attention, for by a judicious performance of the same, the season can be both anticipated and prolonged. Some varieties, alba plena, for example, show a wonderful number of buds, sometimes as many as nine or ten being on shoots 5 inches long, five of these being terminal buds. If all the latter, except the most prominent, are removed, and only the smallest of the back buds left, the large terminal bud will develop quickly and expand, leaving the other for successional flower. Such a profusion of buds is, however, only noticeable in one or two varieties. The only enemy that troubles us at all is black fly ; this we grapple with at once, and two or three fumigatlngs given m succession until the fly is all killed, followed bv a good washing with the garden engine (done thoroughly, but not with sufficient force to bruise the young and tender foliage), will keep the plants clean during the greater part of the growing period. Uaremont. E. BUBEELL. THE VINE.* Cropping and thinnino.— The cropping of Vines IS one of the points in Grape culture that is perhaps more frequently abused than any other Many succeed well up to this stage and then fail through not having the courage to remove a suffi- cient number of bunches. I once heard a good gardener say he thought it would be best if we asked our friends to do this work for us There IS something in this, no doubt ; still we should be able to judge of the ability of our Vines by anticipation, and thus relieve them of all super- fluous bunches early in their growth before harm has been done to the Vines. Vines, when they are vigorous, will show three and four bunches on each shoot; it is best to remove all but one when the stopping is being done. Never leave two on a spur when finally reduced to the number each Vine is to carry ; better have a smaller bunch on another growth than resort to this. I like to see only a few left over and above the required number when they are in flower. Those kinds that are somewhat doubtful setters should have a few more left on them than in the case of others to fall back upon. Yet not too many, or the possibility is the object aimed at will be defeated through the weakening effects brought about bv the verv quantity itself. In the final selection, which should be made at the first thinning, the preference should be given to the most compact bunches having the stoutest footstalks, and these should be selected from the shoots possessed of the greatest amount of yjgour. Some bunches have a shoulder attached to them that causes them to be of unequal propor- tions. I prefer to remove this in most cases to give symmetry to the bunch when fully developed and ripe. The number of bunches allowed to ripen must entirely depend on the strength of the Vine, * A paper read at the Ealing Gardeners' Mutual Improvement booiety, November 27, 1889, by J Hud son, Gunnersbury House Gardens. the length of the rod itself, the size of the bunches, and last, but not least, on the nature and quality of the soil in which it is grown. I could not depend upon Vines in the average soil of this district to carry such heavy crops to perfection as it would be possible to do in some parts of the country. I re- member visiting a well-managed garden on two occasions ; each time there was a very heavy crop of Grapes coloured to perfection — such a crop as we could not get half coloured even in our soil about here. The nearest guide as to quantity that I can with safety give is to allow one bunch only to every two shoots ; thus there is the possibility the following season of getting a good bunch from the other spur. If a Vine is possessed of say 20 spurs, 10 bunches should be a safe crop to carry if they are of average size. Growers who cut all their fruit as soon as ripe can afford to crop rather more heavily than those who, to suit the requirements of their case, have to allow them to hang for several weeks after being well ripened. No plant with which I am acquainted is so disposed to exhaust itself by its prolific fruit-bearing character as the Vine. I wonder sometimes what would be the result if we left all the bunches that show upon young Vines. That they would not arrive at perfec- tion is quite certain ; in all probability they would not be any better than vidld Grapes. The best ottreat- ment that could be given would not compensate for the heavy strain thus put upon them. No doubt if allowed to carry all their fruit they would quickly run out the tether of their existence. When we consider the amount of bunches removed in the earliest stages, those later on, and the berries cut off the bunches that are finally left after thinning is finished, we have but a very small proportion left for the Vine to ripen to perfection, even when it is in its fullest vigour. The Vine being of such rapid growth, and its wood not of such a solid nature as that of many fruit-bearing plants, accounts no doubt for its becoming exhausted more quickly. Thinning should closely follow upon the bloom- ing period, and may be commenced in the case of those varieties which can be best relied upon as soon as the berries are of the size of pigeon shot. Some may urge the plea of want of time by reason of the pressure of other work; this should not be allowed, for the thinning can be done much more expeditiously when taken in hand early. It is best to do the work without touching the bunch with the hand, thinning the central part well out the first time over and the smallest of the outer portions. Soon after a house of Grapes is thinned the first time it will be needful to go over the work again to remove those berries which are not so well placed as the rest, and probably again after- wards where the bunches are extra large. Some kinds that produce berries of extra size require to be thinned more severely; to this class belong Madresfield Court, Gros Colman, Gros Maroc, and Duke of Buccleuch, using more caution with the last named kind. I have often said of Madresfield Court that to thin it enough the best way was when the thinning was " finished " to commence to thin it again. Some kinds need to be left a while longer than others before being thinned, such, for instance, as Muscat of Alexandria, Alnwick Seed- ling, West's St. Peter's, and Lady Downe's. These have all of them a tendency at times to produce berries that are stoneless or poorly developed, even when under good cultivation. When the thinning is being done some growers adopt the practice of slinging the shoulders, taking a lot of pains to spoil a bunch. This I consider is far better left alone altogether, for the more compact a bunch is the better will it look when cut and placed upon a dcRsert dish. During the thinning process I advise that the operator should wear either a light cap or tie a handkerchief over his head, so that his hair does not come in contact with the berries, or the result may be a disfigurement similar to the rust ; this is especially the case with those who perspire freely ; these, too, should be cautious not to touch the berries with their hands. The best time for Grape thinning is early in the morning and after the temperature has declined in the afternoon sufliiciently for the work to be done with comfort, which is not possible in bright sunshine. Ventilation.— This should be done with care, judgment, and common sense, avoiding both the extremes of too much or too little. If the tempe- rature stands in the morning at about the night standard for the time being, and there is a pros- pect of a good rise during the day, a little top air should be put on before there is a rise of many degrees. During hot weather the air-giving should be in anticipation rather than by force of circum- stances, a little being left on all night. In the spring- time the effects of easterly winds have to be care- fully guarded against: ventilation then needs to be seen to with the greatest caution. At such times there will be needed a goodly amount of heat in the pipes, yet it should not be so excessive as to force up the temperature with the aid of sunshine to too great a height, thus causing more air to be admitted than would otherwise have been required. It is always safest to have a little air on during mild weather when cloudy ; it will do good, and prevent a too rapid rise before perhaps attention can be given after an outburst of sunshine. Scalding generally occurs after a period of dull weather when the skin of the berry is more suscep- tible to injury, and is brought on more often than not from non-attention to air-giving at the pioper time. As colouring commences rather more air should be given, the same being gradually increased as it progresses. This is more needed for black Grapes than for white ones, and especially so where Madresfield Court is grown to prevent that well- known failing of this Grape, viz., that of the crack- ing of the berries. I believe that by giving more air the berries are checked from swelling too rapidly, which they would otherwise do if in any way encouraged in that direction. The extra amount of air somewhat checks leaf-development and tends towards the ripening of the wood, which without doubt also is an important aid to the proper ripening of the fruit, for every bunch of Grapes is better finished if the wood is ripened well above the bunch itself, and also keeps far better in good condition. When the weather is favourable and mild I prefer to have a little top air left on all night, and a crack of front air also ; it assists in keeping the atmosphere more buoyant and congenial to proper colouring and ripening. One point in ventilation needs to be carefully avoided after the Grapes have stoned, and more so after colouring has commenced : it is that of never allow- ing the bunches to " sweat." This is caused by non-attention to air-giving in proper time by a con- densation of moisture on the berries. The rapid rise of temperature without any air precipitates this artificial dew upon the cooler surface of the berries, and if repeated many times, will result in the bunches being deficient in bloom even if they are fairly well coloured, having a shining appear- ance when ripe. Ventilators in the back wall, or those on the roof which lift by ventilating gear, assist to prevent this fault happening so frequently, as they can be left open a little way without any fear of harm, Tempbeatures.— With respect to this subject I am in favour of a moderate course, and do not believe in either one extreme or the other. High temperatures I consider are exhausting to the Vine and offer extra inducements to the red spider, whilst low temperatures expose the Vine to mildew and are preventive of proper ripening of the wood. When Vines are started extra early a slightly higher temperature is needed to induce them to break away freely ; whereas, when their natural sea- son of growth is near at hand they will perform the same in a temperature of 5° less. If a house is closed for forcing, say on Dec. 1, which date I con- sider is quite soon enough for anyone to attempt to force Vines in close proximity to smoky London and its fogs, I prefer to keep a night temperature of 50°, which may gradually advance until 55° is reached at the end of the first month, when the Vines would be swelling their buds. By the end of the second month a night temperature of 60° may be maintained, by which time the Vines should be growing freely. The temperature should gradually advance till 65° is reached by the time the Vines are in flower, when if the weather is Feb. 1, 1890. THE GARDEN. 115 favourable another slight advance may be given, taking 68° as the highest temperature, except in very mild weather, the only exception being made in favour of Muscat of Alexandria and a few other kinds, for which 4° more on an average may be added in fine weather whilst they are in flower, but gradually brought down a few degrees after- wards. All Grapes that are designated as shy setters should have the bunches gone over care- fully every day about noon whilst they are in flower with a camel's-hair brush, or, faUing that, a rabbit's tail will answer as well. This will cause a more equal distribution of the pollen grains ; the points of the bunches, especially if they be long ones, often fail to set well. If time cannot be spared for this operation, then I advise that each bunch have a tap with the thumb and finger for a few days, or at least give the rods a smart shaking with the hand. Vines started after the new year do not require quite such a high night temperature as just advised, and for those which break of their own accord in a natural manner a few degrees less even will suftice. In the latter case great caution will be necessary to avoid injury from damp if the weather be unfavourable, especially with such as the Alicante, the downy nature of the young shoots and leaves of which are very susceptible to injury from excess of moisture. Where, therefore, a low temperature is, as in some instances, un- avoidable, it is a good plan to tap the rods several times during the twenty-four hours to throw off this moisture from the foliage. When the point of colouring is reached the temperature should not be increased, but rather keep it a trifle lower than during the previous few weeks. It is no use to attempt to hurry the Grapes at this period of their development. The day temperature should range 5° to 10° higher than the night scale by fire-heat and 1.5° when the sun shines, or 20° even will do no harm provided there is little or no heat in the pipes. These quotations of temperature must not be considered as entirely binding, for if a severely cold time is being passed through, then the tempe- rature should be a few degrees less rather than resort to an unnatural temperature by excessive heating of the pipes. On the other hand, a com- pensating amount of gain may be secured when the weather is mild and less artificial heat neces- sary to maintain the temperature a few degrees above the average. Atmospheric moisture. — This is essential to the healthy development of the Vine ; a dry atmo- sphere is not congenial to a vigorous growth. Assistance must be given by artificial means, but not to the same extent in every case. Where a great part of the surface of the house is taken up with an inside border so much damping down is not needed as in the case of a house where there is more brickwork or staging and little or no border. When Vines are started into growth a bed of leaves and stable manure is beneficial. This, if kept humid every morning and well moistened will be almost sufficient with the addition of syringing the Vines until they are fairly on the move. If the room is of too much importance to be spared in this way more damping down will be necessary, and evaporating troughs may also be employed. The amount, however, must be regulated according to the state of the weather. If mild and less heat in the pipes, then less artificial moisture is necessary ; if cold and the pipes hot, more is required. I believe the warty appearance on the under sides of Vine leaves is occasioned by too much moisture in mild damp weather. I am not partial to steaming the pipes in the usual course of treatment, but rather prefer to keep the floors moist. When the Grapes are in flower the atmosphere should be kept drier, but do not make too much difference. As colouring progresses less moisture is needed, and it should be withheld altogether when the Grapes are ripe unless the weather is excessively hot. After the Grapes are thinned I am in favour of damping down In the evening with liquid manure water from the farmyard. It should be used diluted in water at first, but the strength in a week or two may be almost or quite as taken from the tank. I believe it is a great help to the Vines from that time up to the commencement of colouring, when it should be withdrawn entirely. I have never been in the habit of syringing Vines when in full leaf and fruit ; in fact, it would not do with our hard water to practise it about here. Rain water only should be used when it is attempted, to ensure the berries from the water mark, otherwise unavoidable by the deposit left upon them. I do not think it is necessary in any case where the Vines are healthy ; it might assist to get rid of the red spider where there has been a bad attack of that pest. After all the Grapes are cut, then I believe in giving the Vines a thorough good syring- ing on frequent occasions ; and where the aforesaid insect has been troublesome, I would mix some sul- phur with the water, leaving it on for a few days. Insects. — Having just alluded to the red spideri I cannot do better than follow on with insects- The red spider proves at times most troublesome, and spreads so rapidly at an inconvenient period of growth. I have been less troubled with it since I took to using the manure water, just alluded to. When it is fijst seen, and if it has not spread far, sponging the leaves is a good remedy when done carefully. If it has made considerable pro- gress, the better way will be to make the pipes extra hot and then apply sulphur to them pretty freely, after it has been made to the consistency of paint, either with water or milk, the latter is preferable, because it prevents the sulphur from coming off so easily. When this is done the tem- perature for a few hours may range at 90°, if it can be attained, and the pipes frequently steamed to assist the sulphur in throwing off its fumes. It is not safe to resort to this plan before the Grapes are half grown, and even then I would only adopt it as an extreme resource. Preventive measures are best, and can be named in a few words : avoid a too dry atmosphere ; be careful not to let the Vines sufl'er for want of water; do not overcrop nor otherwise ill treat the Vines, nor grow other plants in the vinery that are subject to red spider. Mealy bug. — This is, like the foregoing, a very old acquaintance of gardeners, and about the greatest enemy, too, with which they are troubled. In my case, I am glad to say, it is a very old acquaintance, forgotten almost, for we have not been troubled with it for the past twelve years. I bought it back again once or twice, at least the plants with it upon them; considering, however, that the bug was by far the dearest, the plants may be passed over as of but little value, and only considered as a medium of conveyance. To tho- roughly eradicate this pest is no little trouble, es- pecially when found in nearly every house under one's charge, but I firmly believe that with constant unremitting attention it may be eventually beaten and given final notice to quit. I found it at Gun- nersbury when I came in nearly every house, con- servatory not excepted, and it was only by sheer hard work that we at last overcame it ; but we did so, and have since been well repaid for the extra labour then expended. The old Vines under my charge had it on them, but we had about got rid of the bug when we found out we had the Phyl- loxera, and so the Vines were destroyed. The weapons I used, and would use again, were sharp eyes, persevering labour, combined with patience and a determination not to be beaten in the fight. The insecticide I used was the "Chelsea Blight Composition," which answered every purpose when we had gained experience in its use. The Vines with the bug upon them were watched almost daily, and every nook and cranny looked into. We well know the young wood comes away clean and free from it, but the danger is that after the bug has had a rest in the old spur it will come forth with fresh vigour. To check this, we used to paint around the young shoot, as soon as we dared, with the above composition straight from the bottle, after that had been well shaken. For the purpose we employed a small tin mug and a little brush, not too stiff ; thus we kept it from the bunches, and in twelve months could hardly find a bug. The leaves were watched also, as a matter of course, for any stragglers, and where they had got thus far, marks were made for extra attention an- other day. When the Vines were at rest they re- ceived a good dressing ; after the loose bark had been removed in a careful manner, the rods were scrubbed with water as hot as the hands could bear it ; this prepared them well to take in a solu- tion of the composition about half diluted. After that the usual mixture of soft soap, sulphur, and tobacco juice, with sufficient clay and water to make it work well was made up, and the Vines painted and tied up again. If the Vines attacked with bug are not in full vigour and the rods some- what exhausted, the better way will be to cut them down and start a fresh cane from each; in this way there is a better and easier chance of getting rid of it entirely. If the case is a very bad one and the Vines aged, the trouble taken would not pay ; it would be far better to root them out and make a fresh start with clean stock. Thrips. — These insects are well known and cause a lot of annoyance if not stopped in time. Overcrowding the vineries with plants brings on this source of trouble. When it is first seen, syringing the leaves will greatly check it. If the foliage has become fairly well hardened, then fumi- gation may be resorted to ; it should not, however, be done too strongly. Three times on successive evenings will destroy most of them, if not all. After a vinery has been fumigated over-night, extra care will be necessary the next day should the sun shine to guard against scalding of the foliage. The best safeguard for a few days after fumigating is to shade the house ; this can be done very quickly with whitening and water, applied to the glass outside with a syringe, the top lights be- ing closed meanwhile. Chrysanthemums. CHRYSANTHEMUMS IN JAPAN. Dr. Hadjimb Watanabb, an ofticial of the Japan- ese Agricultural Service, delivered an interesting address on the Chrysanthemum at the recent cele- bration in Berlin of the centennial of the plant's introduction into European cultivation. Accord- ing to the report of his words, published in Garten- flora, the Japanese divide Chrysanthemums into two groups — " Nogiku " or wild single, and " Ni- wagiku " or double cultivated flowers ; and the latter are sub-divided into four kinds— the ordi- nary autumn-blooming sorts, the summer-blooming, the winter-blooming, and those which bear flowers at all four seasons. The single flower is not ne- glected by the horticulturist, but is prized for its very simplicity, and is usually planted at the foot of rocks, intermingled with Grasses, to give a land- scape design a naturalistic air. In treating the double-flowered plant when it is desired to produce indi\'idual flowers of the largest possible size, then all the branches but one are gradually removed, and on this one only an isolated blossom is allowed to mature. On the other hand, when as many flowers as possible are sought without regard to conspicuous size, the main stem is brought to the greatest possible development, and all its branches are preserved until the blooming season arrives, when those that do not show any buds are cut away. The sturdiest possible plants are chosen for this purpose, and the speaker referred to some upon which more than 300 flowers had been counted. Two forms are in favour for these many-flowered Kikus, one of which gets its name from its resem- blance to a thick broom, while the other is a more artificial, fan-like shape. A Japanese proverb says " it is easy to grow the flowers of the Kiku, but difficult to grow its leaves," and the speaker de- clared that the plants are judged from this stand- point. The amateur's Chrysanthemums are usually "very poor and faulty in foliage, although they may bear fine flowers; but those which one sees at an ' art-gardener's ' are clothed from top to bottom with leaves regularly disposed and of a beautiful fresh colour." The most common method of pro- pagating the plant is by root-division, but several others are employed. In one, a single leaf with a bud at its base is plucked, lightly covered with earth and laid in a shady place, where it eventually 116 THE GARDEN. [Fbb. 1, 1890. takes root. Gardeners who own rare varieties therefore forbid the visitor a near approach to their plants, as it would be easy to pick a leaf of the proper kind and conceal it in the pocket for fntnre planting. you gave us a page of Hibberd cuts in The Garden. Those engravings were entitled to becalled burlesque, they were so exceedingly funny, one of which was a cairn that might have been placed on a mountain ; it was certainly as ill fitted for a garden as for a niche in the Temple of Fame.— Geo. Potts, June. ChryaantlieinumlmprovedRalpliBrockle- bank. — Two years ago Mr. Winkworth, gardener at Childwall Hall, Liverpool, obtained from the variety Ralph Brocklebank, which also originated with him in 1886, another sport a shade deeper in colour than its parent, but yet not sufficiently distinct to sepa- rate the two varieties. He at first named it Mrs. Bevan Edwards, but now purposes sending it out in the spring under the above name. Those who prefer a yellow of a deeper shade to a pale yellow Chrysanthemum will now have an opportunity of suiting their fancy. Ralph Brocklebank is at the present time a favourite, and no doubt when well known the new variety will also become popular. — E. MOLYNEUX. Chrysanthemum roseum superbum.— I am glad to see a favourable note on this fine plant (Garden, Jan. IS, p. r>2). In its colour it has no equal, and but few can surpass it in the freedom of flowering. It may not be an exhibition variety, I freely admit, but where grown for home decora- tion (and that, after all, is the chief point) it will be sure to hold its own, its colour being so attractive and the form of its flowers so pleasing, with an almost entire absence of formality in outline, if they have not been spoilt by artificial dress- ing. It is one of the finest kinds for growing in the form of standards with informal heads. I have seen it shown well under this mode of culture, being, generally speaking, the most attractive of any in the collections so shown. It will but rarely produce imperfect flowers, like some kinds ; even the smallest can be turned to good account in a cut state. This alone is a good recommendation in itself had it no other point in its favour. — J. H. Chrysanthemum Hme. de Savin. — In the present craze for flowers of excessive size, this beautiful variety might possibly be passed over by some growers as not being up to the mark. It is one of the best kinds for decoration in its colour, this being rosy amaranth shaded lilac. I have found its constitution one of the very best, and it is equally well adapted for striking late in the spring, to be flowered in 6inch pots (or even smaller ones if struck very late), as it is for striking at the usual season of the year, after flowering, and grown on eventually into large plants. It flowers rather earlier than many of the Japanese varieties usually grown for large blooms ; hence probably it is not so highly prized as those later kinds. I have found it to be at its best during October. It therefore needs to be housed sooner than the main stock. By so doing, its outer or guard petals will be pre- served from injury either by wet or the early frosts. Small plants, from 1 foot to 2 feet in height, will be found excellent for vases. For small plants no staking is required, the sturdy and compact growth being quite sufficient to support the flowers. — J. TRUE AND FALSE DRAWING. To THE Editor of The Garden. Sir, — It seems a pity that those who find fault with your drawings could not prevent the demise of the Floral World. If that periodical could have stood on its legs until now, they might have seen the way clear to have developed it, and thereby remedied the defects that to your friend's mind are apparent in the engravings of The Garden. In the beginning of my gardening career I became a subscriber to the Floral World, but found that one of its writers, by way of being original and I sup- pose funny, deemed it proper to make use of slangy expressions, as after having said something brilliant he wound up with the words, " and what do you say to that, my cat 1 " What an expression for a gardening editor; that was burlesque indeed, and where was the editorial elimination ? Probably the writer had just been reading some "comic," and had caught the fanny infection. Some years ago ARRiNGEMENTS OF CUT FLOWERS AND PLANTS. Judging from what floral decorations were carried out at Canford Manor when the Prince of Wales was visiting there, simpler, yet bolder methods of arrangement are likely to become far more fashion- able than heretofore, and this it must be conceded is a step in the right direction. The old indiscrimi- nate mixtures with little or no variation have long been condemned in the pages of The Garden, and it may be that the frequent illustrations of simple, yet most pleasing arrangements given have not been offered in vain. Be this as it may, there is no mistake about the results of the exercise of a better taste, as displayed in the interior of Canford Manor when I had the good fortune to inspect it. Nothing in the shape of an haphazard mixture was to be observed, and in the case of numerous com- paratively small vases one variety of flower only was used. Very pretty were those filled exclusively with either white, red, or yellow Tulips, these being cut oS close to the bulb, having, therefore, as a rule, plenty of their own foliage, though in some in- stances the elegant tops of Cyperus laxus were mixed with the flowers. In some cases, where Roman Hyacinths were nsed in coimection with one other coloured kind, both stiff spikes and others with much longer stems were employed, the latter, therefore, hanging gracefully over the sides. Nothing could well have been more beautiful than a flat vase having a groundwork of Lily of the Valley with its own foliage, out of which sprang several good spikes of richly coloured Calanthe Veitchi. Maiden-hair Fern and Calanthe vestita were also effective. Other equally charming combinations could be given. The smaller vases were freely used in the smaller rooms and boudoirs, but the very large and most imposing drawing-room was decorated in a very different style. This required and received bolder treatment, the decorations including about eight large trumpet- shaped vases. These, not less than a yard high, were arranged at intervals round the room against the walls. All were similarly filled, having a back- ground of four or five handsome plumes of Pampas Grass accompanied by some of the foliage of the same. With these were associated long flowering branches of Salvia gesneriajflora, Gorse, and large heads of Poinsettia with some foliage, long wreaths of Ivy draping down to near the base of the vase. These could not by any means be termed expensive vases, but it is doubtful if they could be improved upon for the position. Much the same simplicity prevailed on the dining table. This was of considerable length, or suitable for about thirty guests. Only four large branching candlesticks were used on the first night, and be tween these, or through the centre of the table, were arranged two good Kentias in silver vases and eight large and rather flat silver vases. These latter all had a base of Maiden-hair Fern of a deep healthy green colour, and spreading out from this were ten or more large, well-flowered spikes of Calanthe Veitchi. Interspersed among the dessert dishes were other small silver vases, six on each side, these also being filled with Maiden-hair Fern and small spikes of Calanthe. Forty or more bunches of Marie Louise Violets, in small fish globes dotted through the table, added a delightful perfume to the room and completed the decoration. The next night the principal materials used were an abund- ance of long, freely-flowered branches of Libonia floribunda, these, lightly arranged in rather tall, flat-topped silver vases, " lighting up " beautifully. Another arrangement consisted largely of Arums, Poinsettias, and Lilies of the Valley, and these not being overdone were an excellent change ; while a yet more striking change was effected by carelessly disposing Calanthe spikes and Fern fronds on the cloth, a few elegant fine-foliaged plants serving to relieve what might otherwise have been a somewhat flat arrangement. Mixtures of pot plants and tiny groups in small stands were also avoided. In the larger rooms were to be seen fine specimens of Areca lutescens and other elegant Palms, the pots of these being well surfaced over with plants of Maiden-hair Fern, this being a great improvement on the orthodox bed of dirty Moss. Numerous other single specimens, both large and small, of flowering and flne-foliaged plamts were dotted about the rooms, all of which would bear inspection, heavy or common plants being rigorously excluded. The only two banks I observed were on each side of the principal stair- case, arranged so as not to hide beautifully carved Oakwork at the back, and at the same angle as the rails. These were composed of Arums in cjuantity, there being several dozen flowers open, and among these were interspersed a number of well-grown Poinsettias. Viewed from above the effect was striking and novel. W. I. Destroyers. DISEASED CARNATIONS. Could you kindly tell me what is wrong with my Clove and Carnation layerings ? I have a splendid lot of layers of the old red Clove and some other Carnations that were put out in a border carefully prepared by digging in sand and mud scrapings last September. Nothing could have looked better until the last few days ; in fact only to-day I noticed that the Grass has been gradually eaten away into round holes. It begins with a black spot and gradually spreads until the hole extends nearly across the Grass. I enclose you a few bits of Grass showing the various stages, and should be much obliged if you would help me as to what to do and what the disease is. The roots and shoots appear perfectly healthy. I have had a thin coating of coal ashes round and about them to keep off slugs. All I have done at present is to sprinkle with sulphur. — Loxwood. *,* The leaves are affected by what gar- deners term "spot." It sometimes appears on plants grown in pots when they are kept in cold frames with the lights too close, and if the frames are in a confined place and the plants over-watered. If the plants are out of doors the disease generally appears in wet seasons, and if they are in wet, un- drained soil. I have never tried to cure it in any other way except by cultivating the plants well. I never heard of a cure for it, as it comes in a mysterious manner, and disappears when the plants have a dry soil in winter. I would in this case place a good layer of lime or mortar rubbish over the surface of the ground, break up the larger pieces, and work the whole into the ground a little way by stirring up the surface with a hand-fork. Lightly dusting the plants with quicklime would check the further progress of the disease. Flowers of sulphur is an excellent remedy for all fungoid diseases, but if much of it gets into the soil it is injurious, while quicklime is not. Next season dig mortar rubbish into the soil before planting out the Carnations.— J. Douglas. The winter moth. — I see Mr. McLachlan, before the scientific committee, January 14, says of this moth that the females are capable of deposit- ing eggs for many generations in succession without the intervention of the male. Is not this a mistake ; Do the females live to see many generations ? My experience with the wingless females of all the CJeometiae is that the female dies soon after laying its first and only batch of eggs, and 1 cannot see why this particular one should differ in its life- history from the others. — W. H. G. Wireworms among Carnations.— The wire- worms are often very iroublesome among Carna- tions, especially on new land, or where new soil has been brought in to form a fresh broken-up pasture. I like to work a little fresh loam into the beds when it can be done with safety, but if there is any suspicion of wireworms, the new soil had better be kept out. There is no better dressing for Carnation! Feb. 1, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 117 than old hotbed manure that has lain long enough to get mellow ; but for light soils old cow manure is excellent, but it should remain In a heap at least six months before using it. Beds intended for Carnations cannot be stirred about too much at this season, provided it is done in fine weather when the surface is dry. If there should be any wire- worms or other injurious insects in the land, fre- quent stirring will give the birds a chance to find them. A sprinkling of soot will be beneficial in freeing the land from insects and cleansing it from fungoid spores or anything else of a deleterious character. This preparatory work will save a lot of trouble after the plants are set out. Trapping with bait of Carrot or Potato is the best remedy during spring and summer should any wirewornis remain after the plants are set out — E. H. Abortive Kushrooms on Mushroom bed. — I am sending you a specimen of the fungus that is covering our Mushroom beds, and should be glad if you can give me any information as to its cause and remedy. We had the spawn in the early part of last year, and had most excellent crops of Mushrooms, both in quantity and quality. The last beds in the year were affected much as they now are, and we had no result at all. We com- plained of this in ordering more for this season. The nurseryman could not account for it, and sent directions for making the beds which my gardener has carefully observed, with this most vexatious result. The first bed produced a thick crop of these fungi. — A. Ellis. *,* With the note was forwarded a densely compacted mass of strong-smeUing, white, globular fungoid growths, varying in size from that of a pea to a small marble. The Mushroom bed appears to have produced an enormous number of these growths, all close together. On making sections of the larger examples, it is not difficult to find the cap and gills of the fungi in a small and abortive condition, and it is probable that each of these innumerable small white objects represents a true Mushroom. The spawn is not at fault, but the manner of making the bed. The bed is possibly too rich, but without particulars I cannot say. Mushrooms are very sensitive to their surroundings and more often do badly in a too rich than in a too poor material. Various other fungi occasionally grow in the style of our correspondent's Mushrooms, and the change is always brought about (as far as I know) by something wrong or peculiar in the habitat or surroundings. Mushrooms sometimes grow — when a bed is exhausted— as simple white clubs with no cap. — W. G. S. Siilphide of potassium. — In answer to '^E. H. K." (The Gabden, January 18, p. 68), I must confess that I was not aware that the sulphide acted in the manner described by him on woodwork. It has happened that I have never employed it for plants growing near the roof, and consequently have had no opportunity of observing this peculiarity, which will undoubtedly in some measure militate against its use. In the case of pot plants, however, it may be used without any such disagreeable effect, as they can in a general way be laid on their sides when syringed, and in many instances, especially in the case of large plants, they can be taken out- side. As this anti-mildew chemical appears to injure paint so badly, one would naturally think it would have the same effect on the foliage. When the plants are syringed there remains for a day or two a bluish tinge, but this disappears, and, so far as my experience goes, leaves no stain on the leaves. Neither have I ever known a leaf to be in the least injured, even when hot stm strikes on the plants, which I cannot say for sulphur. I should not have recommended the use of anything that I had not tried, and can only repeat that at the rate of a quarter of an ounce to the gallon I have found it safe and eflicacious. — J. C. B. consisting of four bronze medals, and £5 each, at the Chrysanthemum Centenary, which opens on >iov. 11 ; and also a special silver medal each to Mr. iiruce Findlay, of Manchester, and Mr. David Thomson, ot Drumlanrig, iu recognition of their valuable services to British horticulture. Societies and Exhibitions. The Veitch Memorial Fund. — At a meeting of the trustees of the Veitch Memorial Fund, held on the 23rd ult. — present, Dr. Kobert Hogg (in the chair), and Messrs. T. B. Haywood, G. F. Wilson, and H. J. Veitch— it was decided to give four prizes, NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY Annual Meeting. The annual general meeting of this society was held on Monday evening last at Anderton's Hotel, Fleet Street, when there was a large attendance of members, Mr. E. Sanderson being in the chair. The first business was the reading of the report and balance-sheet. The report showed that the past year was one of unusual activity and progress, not only as regards increase of members and affi- liated societies, but also the exhibitions, which throughout have been a marked success. The pro- vincial show at Hull was evidence of the power the society has now assumed, the quality and quantity of the exhibits, and the attendance of visitors ex- ceeding general expectations, and the January show was one of the best yet held. From the reading of the balance-sheet it appears that the receipts were £871 lOs. 8d. and the expenditure £852 its. lid., leaving a balance of £19 9d., with a reserve fund invested in 2j Consols ot £100 !is. ild. The adoption of the report and balance-sheet was then carried. Mr. Starling, the treasurer, hoped to see the reserve fund larger. A long list of members in arrears with their sub- scriptions was read, and it was proposed and seconded that their names be erased from the books. A gratifying announcement was that the sum of £159 IDs. had already been promised towards the Centenary Fund, which the chairman hoped will be largely increased. As there was no alteration in the rules they were taken as read, and the same list ot ofl5cers as stood last year was proposed for re-election. An auditor to fill the place of Mr. Drain, jun., was elected, Mr. Robert Caimell being nominated to the post ; also Mr. Crane, who again offered his services. The officers for the ensuing year are therefore : Treasurer, Mr. J. R. Starling ; chairman of committees, Mr R. Ballantine ; vice-chairman of committees, Mr. E. C. Jukes ; honorary secretary, Mr. Wm. Holmes ; and foreign corresponding secretary, Mr. C. Har- man Payne. A warm tribute was paid Lord Brooke, M.P., for the ability with which he filled the chair at the annual dinner, and it was considered a great ad- vantage to have secured his services as president of the society. Mr. E. C. Jukes, who proposed the re-election of Mr. Holmes as hon. secretary and superintendent of shows, said it was difficult to say anything new with regard to Mr. Holmes, to whom the success of the National Chrysanthemum Society was in great part due, and expressed his sincere hope that he would soon recover his health, that had been fail- ing for several months. Mr. Sanderson said he felt all the members present would subscribe heartily to what Mr. Jukes had said. In the course of returning thanks Mr. Holmes said it was his in- tention, if the members were willing, to accept office for one year more, and he bad given this notice so that the society might be prepared to then re- lieve him of the work of secretary. His ambition was to see through the centenary year, which should be the most successful in the annals of the society, but that must be his last year in office, for the reason that during the past few months he had suffered in health, and from the increasing de- mand on his time that the work required. According to the rule, one-third of the members forming the general committee retire in rotation each year. Sixteen candidates were nominated, and the following gentlemen elected : Messrs. Boyce, Crane, Dean, Gibson, Gordon, Jones, Laing, Mard- lin, Sanderson, Stevens, Wright, Wynne and Mr. Briscoe Ironside. Applications for affiliation were received from the Sevenoaks and the Taunton Chrysanthemum Societies. Mr. Jukes proposed that some acknowledgment be given to Miss Holmes for her services to the society, as it was well known that to her a consider- able share of the work fell, and he felt it would be a graceful and feeling act to show their apprecia- tion for it. He thought that a sum of money should also be set apart to obtain paid assistance for Mr. Holmes. The following resolution was then proposed and seconded : " That Miss Holmes be requested to ac- cept from the society the sum of £10 as a grateful recognition for the services she has given, and that the committee be authorised to set aside such a sum of money as will procure efficient assistance to Mr. Holmes." Votes of thanks to the officers for their services during the past year and to the chairman for pre- siding were passed. Obituary, OF MR. WILDSMITH. to press we heard with DEATH JcsT before going great regret of the unexpected death of Mr. ^Vildsll^th, for many years gardener at Heck- field. He was one of our best gardeners, and thorough in various ways in the flower as well as iu the fruit garden. People accus- tomed to criticise the press often say they never knew a good gardener who was a ^yyiter — a foolish statement, which some of our Ixist gardeners from W. Thomson, of Chiswick(authorof the "Practical Gardener"), to W. Coleman, A. F. Barron, T. Baines, and many other men of our own day disprove. Mr. Wildsmith is a bright e.Kumple of the same kind, as what he knew as a gardener he was able to convey well to others. For years he has been one of the best writers on The Garden. Heckfield, where could lie seen some of the best examples of flower garden- ing possible in a formal garden, has often been described by us. Of late years he bad begun to use many hardy flowers, and was much pleased with the result. Mv. "Wild- smith was one of our best fruit growers, having sent fine examples both of indoor and outdoor fruits to the shows of recent years at Kensington and Chiswick. His collec- tion of Pears at the Chiswick Congress was one of the best there. Ivy banks and borders.— Much more might be done with Ivy in working out details in the designs of ornamental gardening. I should like to see some of the steep Grass slopes that get eo brown m hot sum- mers planted with Emerald Green Ivy. There would be a great saving of labour, as these turf banks, apart f ri >m their rusty appearance in dry seasons, are difficult to mow and keep in order. This is a good season to plant Ivy, and if rooted cuttings are planted and pegged down, their foliage wiU soon hide all the soi . How charming these Ivy banks might be made with cheap common bulbs in early spring, or rather, 1 might say, winter, as the Snowdrops and Daffodils will blossom amid the shelter of the Ivy leaves very early. — E. H. Names of plants.— J. Berry.— 1, Angrsecum eburneum virens ; 2, Chimonanthus fragrans. -./. J- — Corylopsis spicata. B. E. C— 1, Cupressus Law- soniana argentea variegata ; 2, Cupressus Lawsoniana j 3 Jnniperus Sahini ; 5, Thuja gigantea ; 5, Thujopsis dolobrata; 6, Cupressus sp. (send better specimen).— —h'oithumhria.—\, Hedera Glymi ; 2, H. angulans. Names of fruits.- inon.— 3, Court of Wick. We are unable to name the others at this late penoU of the season. Mrs. Hvde.— Apple Rymer. 118 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 1, 1890. WOODS AND Forests. MANAGEMENT OF DEER FORESTS. Nature has done much to provide shelter for animal lite, and in the absence of trees it is in- teresting to watch the red deer aa they leave the open plain and wind-swept hillside and be- take themselves to the corries and recesses of the hills for the sake of the protection which they aft'ord during a gale. The white mountain hare, unlike the red hare of the low country, exca- vates a burrow for itself below the fragments of rocks and boulder-atones where it finds a cosy retreat from the inclemency of the weather. In bare parts of the forest the deer have no alterna- tive but to retreat to the rocky fastnesses in the vicinity. Were it not that Nature has provided these places of shelter many of the animals would perish during a prolonged period of hard frost and snow. When the storm, however, is of long standing the animals repair to the wooded parts when pressed by hunger to browse upon the twigs and bark of the stems and branches of young trees and scrub which happen to be within their reach. Many of the deer forests in the highlands of Scotland could be much im- proved by the judicious grouping of trees here and there at well chosen points to secure shelter. Belts of trees have sometimes been recom- mended ^for this purpose, but as far as I have observed belts are most suitable for the low country, where the ground is of more value and principally under a state of tillage. When trees are growing in dense blocks at high eleva- tions they not only thrive better than when planted in belts, but likewise afford better shelter, as the animals can always shift to the lee side of the group during a gale. In places where I have introduced the grouping system in the deer forest, the influence of the trees for shelter when thoroughly established can be felt at a distance of fully two miles from the base of the plantation. These groups should con- sist principally of the Scotch Fir, although I have occasionally used the hardy Mountain Pine (P. PumUio) with advantage either mixed with the former or in groups by itself. Although P. PumUio does not attain a large size, yet from its close spreading habit itforms a more dense covert on exposed situations than any other tree of the Pine tribe. In this country P. Pumilio produces abundance of fertile seed, which may either be sown in a nursery and the progeny planted out where they are to remain, or the seed may be sown at once in the forest, the only difiference being that in the latter case it takes some years to establish covert, and besides many of the seedling plants are apt to be eaten over by vermin. I prefer raising the plants in the nursery, and after they have attained some considerable size they can be transferred to the forest with better prospects of success. In ad- dition to providing shelter, wet places in the forest can be much improved by cutting surface drains to allow the water to run off. By doing this the natural Grasses and surface herbage are much improved. In some cases I have found it to be an advantage to sow the seeds of different species of hardy Grasses to stock bare places and improve the pasturage. Draining and planting can be carried out in open weather during winter, but the Grass seeds should not be sown sooner than April or May. J. B. Webster. G inches bent at right angles, towards the side where the rabbits are, just beneath the soil. The rabbits, if they begin to burrow close to the netting, are at once stopped by the wire. It never occurs to them to start a foot or so away from the wire fence. This method has been proved far superior to burying the wire perpendicularly. The height above ground that I name is, I think, sufficient, provided ordinary supervision is exercised. — W. EARTHING ROUND TREE STEMS. Placing earth round tree stems is a practice fre- quently adopted where there is surplus soil to be disposed of, and it cannot be too often nor too strongly condemned, either by those who take an interest in trees for their beauty, or by those whose pleasure, happiness, and even health are in some degree dependent on the existence of trees in the vicinity of their homes. In many instances, in order to save time and expense, rubbish is con- veyed into the plantation close at hand, where it is levelled down, and perhaps sown with Grass seeds, and thought no more of until the shrubs or trees against whose stems it has been laid show unmistakable signs of weakness and debility. There are innumerable instances of such errors having been committed in such situations, the re- sults of which are but too evident to the most casual observer. Conifers invariably root near the surface, and are therefore very liable to injury by having their roots disturbed. They also appear to have a special dislike to soil being placed against their stems, or over their roots, except to a very limited extent. Consequently, wherever the excavator has encroached too closely on their territory, debility is apparent ; but where they have been allowed to remain unmolested in their primitive state, with their two appropriate companions. Bracken and Broom, they still maintain their pristine beauty. If soil must be disposed of, it should be as nearly as possible of the same texture and compo- sition as that in which the trees are growing, and then placed only to a very limited depth, so as not to destroy, even for a short time, that natural porosity of the surface soil which is so largely pro- duced by the roots themselves. In respect to those trees which are not so easily injured by this prac- tice, and which will bear any reasonable amount of soil being laid over their roots, I still think the same rule in respect to the texture and composi- tion should be, as nearly as possible, adhered to, and if placed near the stem, a cavity, quite round the tree and down to the base, should always be left, and of sufficient width to allow a free circula- tion of air, and also to admit of being cleared of any matter which may and does frequently accu- mulate in it. The sloping bank system answers well in some situations, and has the advantage of showing more of the trunk, but if the surface of the ground inclines to that particular point, or the soil be very tenacious, or if the ground be not of a thirsty nature, evils may accrue from an accumu- lation of too much water in the soil, which would be highly detrimental to the welfare of the trees. T. C. for some years. Some substances give the drainer a vast amount of trouble by obstructing pipes. Ochreous water, depositing oxide of iron, is a common source of obstruction. It appears to harden and consolidate as it receives air through the pipes, and ultimately chokes them. It is best to get at the source of the spring or springs, and conduct the water away by large pipes inde- pendent of the general system. Another source of trouble is the percolation of sand into the pipes, which necessitates patience and care in taking them up frequently after being first laid and relaid, until all the water has run out of the bed, and then laying them in straw and on strips of wood. — X. Elongation of tree trunks.— I have ample evidence to bring forth in substantiation of what Mr. Miller says regarding the elongation of the trunks of different trees did I think that such was necessary. It is not the first gate I have had lowered when the fencer unthinkingly hung it on a living post— a tree stem. One I know of is now nearly 2 feet from the ground. This when hung fully fifteen years ago could hardly be opened, from the lower bar coming into contact with the road. A twig of Abies Pinsapo was grafted on the outer branch of a Silver Fir at breast high or a little more some years ago ; unfortunately, I cannot say how many, and now that twig stands out conspicu- ous at fully 12 feet from the ground level. — A. D. Webster. Hemlock Spruce hedges. — I have often wondered how such fast-growing evergreen trees as the Hemlock Spruce and Lawson Cypress were not more frequently employed as evergreen hedges. I had several Lawson Cypress hedges made here for sheltering a nursery, and they soon got to the size required, and bore well the cutting and clipping to which they were subjected to keep them in shape. Hemlock Spruce would answer the same purpose, and when tried, both in the case of it and the Lawson Cypress, young plants should be selected so as to start with a bushy form. The soil should be trenched, and if necessary enriched vrith peat or leaf mould so that the plants may have a good start, when success would be certain. — H. Varieties of trees. — It frequently happens that what may be called, from a botanical point of view, a mere variety, is of as great importance for our gardens as the most distinct of species. In gardening the question of form is second to no other, and frequently valuable deviations from ordinary forms characterise what are called mere varieties. Thus such varieties of hardy native trees as the Weeping Wych Elm and the Weeping Beech are more precious for the garden landscape than most new species of hardy trees ; this must be clear to aU who have seen these varieties in a mature state. All interested in trees would do well to observe accidental deviations from the normal type in gardens under their care. A stray shoot or sucker showing a habit different from the type may, if separated and increased, perpetuate constantly its peculiarity. He who observes and increases it may render as great a service to the gardens of Europe as was rendered by those who secured for us the Upright Yew or the Weeping Ash. — V. Babbit netting is more efficient if, instead of being buried vertically in the ground, it be bent at right angles and placed just beneath the soil, say 2 inches deep. Take galvanised netting 3 feet high. Have 2 feet 6 inches above the ground, and Boots choking drains.— Deep as drainage may be laid, it is never altogether free from the possibihty of being put out of order by the roots of trees, which may penetrate the drains, and check the free passage of the water through them. The roots of the Elm, Ash, Willow, and other trees are known to enter the pipes, and even pass through the ground for several yards to reach them, as if they were attracted by the moisture and air which they find in the pipes, and by the nourishment afforded them there. To obviate this difficulty, it is advisable, where it occurs or is apprehended, to use socket-pipes jointed with cement, or to lay the pipes as far as possible from the trees. Embedding the pipes in lime, mortar, or concrete has frequently prevented them from being choked, although close to trees which it was impossible to avoid, and has kept them clear "The Garden" Uonthly Fenta-— This journal is imhlished in neatly bound Monthly Parts. In this form the coloured plates are best preserved, ami it is most suitable for reference previous to the issue of the half-yearly volumes. Price Is. 6d. ; post free. Is. 9d. Complete set of volumes of The Garden from its commenceirunt to end of 1889, thirty-six vols.^ pnce, cloth, £21 ; whole calf, £36; halfmm-occo, £32 8s. "Hardy Flowers." — Giving descriptions of upwards of thirteen hundred of the most ornaiiiental species, icith directions for their arrangement, culture, d:c. Fourth and Popular Eelition, Is. ; post free. Is, Sd. ' Farm and Home " Monthly Parts. — This journal is published in neatly bound Monthly Parts, in which form it is most suitable for reference previous to the issue of the yearly volumes Price 5d. ; post free, 8d. "The Garden Annual" for 1890. — Contains Alphabetical Lists of all Branches of the Horticultural Trade corrected up to November 10 last. The Lists o] Gardens and Country Seats (containing over 8000J have been very carefully and extensively revised, and are admitted to be he most complete ever published. Pi-ice Is.; by post. Is. 5d. London : 87, Southampton Street^ Strand, W.C, THE GARDEN. 119 No. 951. SA TURD A Y, Feb. 8, 1890. Vol. XXX VII. " This is an Art Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare. but I OVERCROWDING IN THE GARDEN. The man who makes two blades of Grass grow where only one grew before, may or may not be a public benefactor. It depends in a great measure upon what space there is to fill. There are places where a dense impenetrable jungle may not be inappropriate, but as a rule the best results are obtained where each plant, shrub, and tree has its own allotted space to fill, antl fills it well and worthily. At this season an overcrowded conservatory or greenhouse can only be made presentable by bringing all the plants to a face ; but what a beggarly array of bare stems there is if one peeps behind the scenes, and it requires a good packer to make the most of such stuff. It may not be the gar- dener's fault ; he is probably compelled to have regular supplies of many things for cutting, and his only chance for getting them is to crowd hia houses from floor to roof with plants of some kind in the hope that they will throw a few blossoms for cutting. It is weary, unsatisfactory work. So far as appearance goes, a few specimen Yuccas, DraciL'nas, Aloes, Palms, &c. , to form centres in these large dark conservatories, round which the flowering plants might be grouped, would look better, and would require a smaller stream of fresh plants to keep the thing going. How we miss now the specimen Oranges that were so common in conservatories thirty years ago. The ripe golden fruits were always attrac- tive, and the perfume of the blossoms was never altogether absent. All changes are not for the best, and the Orange trees are badly missed in many establishments. Those who do not care to go to the expense of the specimen Palms, •fee, might plant a few Acacias and other similar plants as rallying points in the borders and fill in around with the plants in pots. The variegated Reed (Arundo donax variegata) is a charming background plant in a lofty con- servatory where it has plenty of room. Several of the Bamboos are excellent for cool houses, and their growth is nice for cutting to mix with flowers in large vases, and where there is plenty of graceful foliage the flowers need not be densely packed in, and a more economical ar- rangement wiU be made. I have occasionally discovered a crowded garden that does not grate so harshly upon one's senses of what is right and proper. Last summer, during a short holi- day ramble, I found a grand old-fashioned gar- den where all the beds and borders were com- pletely filled with flowering plants and shrubs, including fruit trees. Besides the plants that were actually in sight, the ground was filled with many kinds of bulbs, the common and the choice being mixed together in the wildest confu- sion. It was a chaotic mass, but the guidin" spirit of the place was not without taste in his arrangements, although he would not be bound by any of the recognised canons governing such matters. All the plants in the garden were hardy, with the exception of a few annuals, and the plants grew, flowered and struggled with each other for light, air and space to develop. Scarlet Thorns threw their branches over the walks ; climbing Roses, Honeysuckles, and other climbers rambled among the branches of the fruit trees ; Everlasting Peas wrestled with and overcame their supports, but all seemed happy in their wild luxuriance. It formed an interesting picture, but in such a crowd, in the struggle for life many must perish, and, but for the continual replenishment of choice deli- cate things that is continually going on, the strong plants would in the end have the place to themselves. Other overcrowding may be viewed with less indulgence. On the crowded fruit tree, if it bears a crop at all, the fruit is of an inferior description, and the over- crowded plantation or shrubbery sooner or later tells its own tale of ruin and death. E. H. TOWN GARDENING. One is sometimes tempted to ask, Is the growth of plants in dwellings in our popnlous cities and towns on the increase 1 I think it is, and I draw my in- ference from one prominent fact, that in the case of many of the huge blocks of buildings erected about London as workmen's dwellings there is to be seen in many of the windows and rustic balconies constructed outside of them plants that are appa- rently carefully tended and valued as subjects worthy a devoted care. This is an assuring sign of the times, which the social reformer may contem- plate with satisfaction. One main impetus which is given to the culture of plants in London by the labouring classes is the flower shows that are held. Plants can be culti- vated inside and on the outsides of windows, on balconies, parapets, on the flat roofs of houses, and other places. When the City flower shows were held, the very best specimens of Fuchsias produced were grown upon the roof of the Guildhall, and they were bloomed much better than could have been expected. The position of the window, its aspect, and the character of the plant cultivated have much to do with the measure of success. From some of the close alleys used to come plants that had evidently been tended with the greatest care, and were well grown on the whole, but they rarely carried a single flower. Everythingalmostappeared to have been done to bring the plants on in a satisfactory manner, but the most loving attention conid not produce flowers ; an open position, sunlight, and a clear atmosphere were wanted to do this. The best plants came from open, airy spaces, like Finsbury Square or Finsbury Circus, and I thought when these City flower shows were held that sufficient stress was not laid by the judges upon the difficulties the poorer classes had to contend with in getting these plants into exhibition form. I am afraid city and town flower shows are on the decline, and yet when rightly managed they can be made of great service in raising to a higher level the home life. There are so many school- rooms about the metropolis which can be utilised for the purpose at a small cost, and the expenses attending upon such an exhibition are so small — a little money judiciously expended going a long way — that it is a pity more of these shows are not established. R. D. in the temperate house at Kew. It oin be easily increased by striking the points of the half -ripened shoots in a mild bottom-heat, using fine peat and sand in equal parts. Ferns. LOPHOSORIA PRUINATA. This is a rare Pern, and one I have not seen since the Messrs. Rollisson's collection was dis- persed eleven years ago. I received specimens of this plant which had been gathered by Capt. Toppin some few years ago in Jamaica, where it occurs. It is also found in Mexico, and along through the American Continent to Chili. It is also said to be found in the island of Juan Fer- nandez. It was first known and described by Swartz under the name of Polypodium pruina- tum, and by Schkuhr under the name of Poly- podium griseum. It is a handsome Fern, much more attractive when in a barren state than when fertile. By some this species is still con- sidered a Polypodium, but in 18-i7 Presl separated it from that genus under the name adopted here, whilst Hooker places it with Alsophila. It forms a short arborescent stem which is quite destitute of spines, but which is, however, furnished with a more or less dense coating of tender soft hair or down, more espe- cially near the base. The fronds are stout in texture, each some 3 feet or more in length, deep green on the upper side, but beneath as white as Cyathea dealbata or Gymnogramma calomelanos. Whilst barren they have a beau- tiful appearance ; when fertile, however, the underside becomes very hairy and the whiteness is hidden, and henco its beauty is lost. This plant requires the warmth of an ordinary stove, and takes the place of the Silver Tree Fern of New Zealand in the greenhouse. It, however, does not require so much space, as it is slow in growth, taking a long time under cultivation to reach what appears to be its ultimate size — G feet to 8 feet. It should be grown in a mix- ture of peat and loam made sandy, and the pots well drained. W. H. G. Agapetes buxifolia. — This is perhaps the prettiest of the Vaccinium family grown under glass. It is an uncommon plant in gardens, but should occupy a place in the greenhouse to the ex- clusion of many others that are now grown there. It was discovered between thirty and forty years ago on the hills in Bhotan at an elevation of 3000 feet. There it is said to grow— as many of the Himalayan Rhododendrons do — on the trunks of trees, forming a bush with a large tuberous base to the stem. The flowering branches are long and slender, clothed thickly with small dark green leaves, and on the ripened portion with abundant flowers. The blooms, each over an inch long, tubular, and bright red, are produced singly on short pe- dnnc-les from the axils of the leaves. An additional recommendation is the beauty of its fruits, which are milky white, and about the size of the heps of the Dog Rose. Notwithstanding its epiphy- tal nature, it grows exceedingly well potted in sandy peat or planted out in beds of the same ma- terial. Treated in both ways it is now flowering Lomariopsis heteromorpha. — I am asked by " C. C " if this species is a climbing plant. Hooker says it climbs lofty trees in New Zealand, and I have specimens of this plant gathered in New Zealand about twenty years ago, and which, bear- ing fertile and barren fronds, appear to have been stripped from trees. The fertile fronds are each a foot long and pinnate, the pinna) narrow, con- tracted, and more than 3 inches long, whilst the bar- ren fronds are of about the same length. This Fern has obtained the name of Stenochlsena heteromor- pha in some gardens, but it is the old Lomaria filiformis of Allan Cunningham, and is said to be of frequent occurrence throughout both the North- ern and Middle Islands of New Zealand. This plant as far as I have seen has not yet developed into its natural habit with us. Perhaps the atmosphere has not been moist enough, but if " C. C." has a strong plant of this species, and gives it the facilities for climbing, and keeps a very humid atmosphere, by the end of the season it may perhaps establish itself in its position as a climber. — W. 11. G. lilavea cordifolia. — This is a beautiful Fern, found near Oaxaca, in Mexico, but much as this part has been visited by Orchid collectors, I sup- pose the majority of them have never thought of collecting Ferns, or we should have had this plant sent home more frequently. I believe this is the only species of the genus known ; this, however, has not saved it from being named by various authors. Thus it has obtained the names of Cera- todactylis osmundioides, AUosorus Karwinskii, and Botryogramma Karwinskii, but under whichever name it is grown it should be carefully cultivated, as in every greenhouse it will be found a most 120 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 8, 1890. acceptable and charming plant. It is of tufted habit, from 1 foot to 18 inches in length, or even more, the base of the stems scaly, the fronds bi- or tri-pinnate, the upper portion fertile and pen- dent, the lower barren. This plant I have not found to germinate freely from spores, perhaps because they had not been properly matured. This Fern should be potted in a mixture of peat and loam, made tolerably sandy, and the drainage must be good, as it likes an abundance of water during the summer season. It requires only moderate heat, and wiU thrive well in an elevated cranny in the rockwork in the temperate house.— G. Chrysanthemums. CHRYSANTHEMUM LORE. To thoroughly know and grow the Chrysanthe- mum is an infatuation id explicable to the ordi- nary admirer of the plant as a flower. Every little intricate detail is not only a daily, but at times even an hourly observation. The growth of the plant, the bud setting, the unfolding and lasting properties of the flower, as well as the colour, build, make and shape of the individual florets that help to build up the flower, are all points of very great interest to him, but it must be confessed size has been the standard of per- fection aimed at, for the prizes ofl"ered at exhi- bitions were to encourage high-class cultivation, and size was considered an example of this. It is to be regretted, however, that size alone has taken first place in the estimation of many ■who grow for exhibition only. If the varieties that are to be measured by inches only were to be encouraged, it would prove very detrimen- tal to the class as a whole, to the great regret of many vcho can see beauty in all their various sizes and forms. I fear the favour for large blooms would oust very many beautiful forms from cultivation. The large blooms have created •wonder and excitemeut among many who had never before seen them. But as societies in- creased the fruits of their labours became mani- fest by the increasing love and knowledge of the flower by the public, and the oftener public exhibitions are visited, so will the rows of large blooms become more monotonous, and the various societies will find that they must make some fresh features in their exhibitions to keep the interest of the public from flagging. Here at Ryde, which is the leading show in the Isle of Wight, baskets and vases of Chrysanthemums, collections of flowers arranged in trays or shallow boxes filled with sand, with their foliage, are encouraged. A most striking feature is the class for twenty-four triples. All these break the monotony of the rows of blooui that are in the principal cut classes, and many very beau- tiful varieties are utilised that would be entirely lost singly on a show board. I am weU aware of the usual strong argu- ments that are brought forward in committee when any innovations in the schedules are threatened. The first, and to some the most valid is, " Will the funds admit of it ? " Another and certainly the weakest is, " We have done very well up till now, and I do not see why we want any fresh features." Similar arguments were used when the two classes for six of any one variety were brought forward at Kingston, but happily the majority were induced to give them a trial, and myanticipations have beenmore than realised, for the first year the Japanese class brought out six of the finest blooms of Mme. C. Audiguier that have been exhibited, and ever since there has been very strong competi- tion, making the classes, both of incurved and Japanese, a very attractive and instructive feature. It will not do in these times to be too reluctant to depart from the stereotyped classes, for the great flower-loving public, who may not be exhibitors or admirers of large blooms, but to whom societies, trade, and others look for support, must be taken into consideration. Perhaps the majority would be more than de- lighted for the first two or three years, but if there were no fresh features the rows of large blooms would cease to be attractive, the novelty would wear off, and the exhibition become mo- notonous. To the practical cultivator every new form, whether of an old-established or newly- introduced variety, is an attractive feature, but the general public, who is not so well versed in all this, cannot be expected to have the same deep interest, and whose only gratification is the sight of Nature's gems in all their varied and fantastic forms. To the former, a large or full Brocklebank, a very fine Baron, or deep Avalanche would be the very acme of perfec- tion, while to the latter they would be regarded as so many overgrown monstrosities. It may be a question of sour grapes in some cases, but with many I think it a question of taste entirely, and a stand of triples of small, but perfect blooms of Aimee Ferriere, Prima Donna, Little Harry, Enamel, Dupont de I'Eure, Annie Salter, or others of similar character would be more a type of beauty in their eyes if set up with foliage, as the pompons are mainly shown. I do not think their tastes ought to be ignored, as there are so many types and varieties in existence now. HappUy, there Ls room for all to be gratified in the many dift'erent forms of the Chrysanthemum now cultivated. Bemhridge, I. IF. C. Orchard. Public Gardens. VANDALISM AT HAMPSTEAD. The following excellent letter from Miss Octavia Hill appeared in the Daili/ Graphic of January 31, and the importance of the subject justifies its inser- tion : — " The land adjacent to Hampstead Heath, com- prising 2G5 acres, lying between Hampstead and Highgate, has been recently purchased by the first combined effort of the municipal authorities, the parochial charities, and voluntary donors. As one of those whose duty it was to receive the subscrip- tions of the London public, I can bear witness to the great enthusiasm inspired by the idea of pre- serving for the people, in perpetuity, some of the few lovely meadows and field-paths within walking distance of the large centres of population. From the great landed proprietors, who gave £3000 each, to the hard-worlang servant, who gave her shilling or half-crown, there was evidence of the real desire to make personal sacrifice to secure so great a boon for London. '• The land was well-known to hundreds. It was the walk on Saturday afternoons and fine Sundays, and on Bank holidays, of numerous groups of happy pedestrians. There you might see the father lead- ing two little children by the hand, the boys fishing for tadpoles in marsh or pond, the children filling their little hands with Buttercups or Sorrel. There the overworked professional man would find his quietest walk at sunset ; there one might climb the hill— far from the dust of road and noise of wheels —the great city with all its traffic and noise, lying in the distance below. Certainly the hopes of most of the donors were that they were preserving a space which should be kept in its rural beauty for those who were least able to get far away into the real country, and who wished for something more unconventional and quieter than the London park. "A portion of the land has come into possession of the London County Council. It is the strip which goes by the name of East Heath Park. With the view of letting this land for building, and in order to afford approach to the villas which should be erected, a wide road had, previous to the sale, been begun by the vendor, and had been carried across a brick viaduct. For many years the scheme had lain in abeyance, and the road, which had never been completed at either end, was covered with Grass. What was the amazement of those who knew the spot to find that the first act of the London County Council was to give orders for carrying this wide road to either extremity of the new land, to prolong it at both ends over the Heath, and to widen a small agricultural road — practically little more than a footpath — diverging from it on the east, and stopping short at a stile and hedge which bounded the rest of the land recently purchased, but which wUl not be handed over to the Council till the end of this year. This viaduct road is now daily being continued ; it leads to no populous district, it connects not even one group of houses with the Heath. Yet the de- vastation it is causing is pitiable to see. The wild beauty of Nature is destroyed by a formal black, wide road — the soft slopes of turf are cut away — a formal footpath runs parallel to it. Stakes are to be seen across the Heath, marking out where it is proposed to carry even further the ghastly length of desolate road. It was understood that the Lon- don County Council contemplated the formation of an additional road, taking the place of the much frequented, but still perfectly rural footpath, lead- ing from the east Heath to Highgate. Happily, this land, however, is not yet in their possession, and I am pleased to learn from a letter published in the Standard on the 28th ult. that the con- sideration of the formation of this road has been postponed till the end of the year. Doubtless this is in consequence of the very strong local feeling against this road which exists in Hampstead and Highgate. In the shops there are cards bearing the heading, ' Save the meadow paths,' and stating that petitions against the road are lying ready for signature. I have little doubt that the formation of this particular road will be abandoned. But the destruction caused by the viaduct road is daily progressing. London may wake up to find, too late, that the quiet and beauty of the fields are marred by the construction of a wide, hideous, and useless road. " The portion of St. Pancras lying south of the fields requires good approaches to them. A good entrance will, I conclude, be made close to the Gospel Oak Station, near Gordon House. Any other approaches by foot-bridges over the railway, or the formation of any road on the south which may be possible, are much needed. But neither of the roads proposed by the County Council would benefit St. Pancras in the smallest degree. " Nor does it appear to me that it is in any way desirable in the interest of the people to cut up the land so dearly bought — so valuable from its quiet and beauty — by allowing driving roads to cross it. " I remember hearing that Dean Stanley had said , ' Have any number of trams to Westminster Abbey, but don't run your tram road through it.' Surely our few acres of quiet meadow land which may recall to the people their childhood's home in the country, or familiarise their children with natural scenery, to which they are strangers ; surely a place of peace, of silence, and of beauty for those who desire to leave the noise of London might be kept by our representatives undisturbed. "The late Metropolitan Board, in deference to popular feeling, left Hampstead Heath unfenced, and in the main wild and undisturbed. Cannot our new representatives realise in time that they will earn the gratitude of Londoners by doing the same with this great trust handed over to them 1 Cannot they understand that what people who go as far as Hampstead seek is, not the formality of the London park, not the wide roads, not the kerbstones, not the gas-lamps, not the levelled footpaths, but some- thing of a freer space, where the wild flowers and meadow slopes may be seen in their natural condi- tion ? Would it not be well if some such guiding general plan were adopted as is embodied in the f oUowing suggestions .' " 1. Let all driving roads stop short at the boun- daries of the new land. Feb. S, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 121 "2. Let no fences or formal entrances be con- structed. Hampstead Heath and Wimbledon show that this is feasible. "3. Where the land is bounded by gardens, or should it be necessary to protect it from the railway, let it be done by low, irregular hedges of Hawthorn, wild Rose, Bramble, and Holly, widening into thickets here and there. " i. On the northern boundary, where Lord Mansfield has stipulated that a fence be erected, let Oaks, Hawthorns, and wild Rose in irregular clumps be planted, in order to conceal it quickly. "5. Let the footpaths follow the slopes and hollows as heretofore. Where they are muddy let them be made thoroughly dry. Let their edges be informal and irregular, even where they have to be widened. " 6. Let there be no draining of marshes, except where a footpath crosses them, for the sake of the marsh flowers and the delight of the boys in the tadpoles. " At much sacrifice this land has been rescued from building. Let us do what we can to preserve it in its full beauty. It is a mistake to think that rural scenery is enjoyed only by the artist and literary man. Many working people have a keen appreciation of it, even some who would find it hard to put the impression into words. There are plenty of places for those who love broad roads. This land was purchased mainly for the pedestrians of all classes. It is too small to be traversed by roads, which would cut it into fragments." Fences in public parks. — The attempt some- times made by the authorities to shut out the beauty of a park by a tall ugly wooden fence is usually strongly resisted by those who wish the open space, bought for the enjoyment of the public, to add a charm to the district impossible when encircled by a fence that effectually shuts out a view of the trees, Grass, and flowers. The newly-acquired Ravenscourt Park, in Hammer- smith, was shut in by a close wooden fence several feet in height, impossible to see through, and com- pletely shutting out the beauty of the park, but a strenuous opposition against the beauty -destroy- ing woodwork has proved successful. A light iron and low fence has taken its place, sufiicient to pre- vent cattle from entering. Ravenscourt Park is one of the prettiest in the outskirts of London ; 32 acres in extent, and with a noble avenue of Elms leading up to the free library at the northern end, formerly a private residence. We are pleased to see that the broad expanse of turf which takes up the greater portion of the park has been left un- touched, not dabbled about with flower beds or intersected with narrow gravel walks that spoil many otherwise beautiful spots. Sudbrook Park. — A deputation recently waited upon Sir Nigel Kingscote, Commissioner of Woods and Forests, to urge the Government to withdraw Sudbrook Park from the building market and to preserve it as an open space and an appropriate appendage to Richmond Park. Mr. Shaw-Lefevre and other speakers urged upon Colonel Kingscote the injury which would be inflicted upon Rich- mond Park should Sudbrook Park (which is sepa- rated from it only by an open wire fence) be con- verted into a building estate, and the value of Sudbrook as a place of recreation. The rapid growth of Richmond and the great need of addi- tional playing fields in the near neighbourhood of London were referred to ; and the comparatively slight gain which would result to the revenue from building operations was contrasted with the serious injury which the public would suffer in the loss of an open space and the disfigurement of the views from Richmond Park. The Commissioners were urged to maintain Sadbrook Park in its present condition, and thus give time for any further steps which might be necessary to secure its permanent dedication to the pnbUc. Sir Nigel Kingscote, in reply, stated that he considered himself bound by his office to obtain the best revenue in his power from Crown lands in the position of Sudbrook Park ; but he promised that if he should find it is duty to submit to the Treasury any proposal to build upon the park, he would at the same time call attention to the arguments and considerations which had been placed before him. NOTES OP THE WEEK. Moutan Pssonies are in demand. At the sale held l>y Messrs. Protheroe and Morris on Wednesday high prices were realised, as much as 28s. for a lot of seven and eight plants. Anemone fulgens is remarkably early this season, and before January was out several beds of it were in fuU bloom in the nursery of Messrs. Barr and Son, Long Ditton. The rich scarlet flowers were of remarkable brilliancy when the winter sun shone upon them. Cvpripedium Sedeni.— I send you a fair ex- ample of this. A plant of this variety has been flower- ing here for the last sis months. The fine, soft colour renders it a great favourite with the ladies, and mixed with coloured Orchids, it tones down their often too gorgeous shades. — J. F. W., Highlands. IN'arcissus minimus is one of the earliest of its race in bloom, and a dainty gem it is in the open ground, as at Long Dittou, where in Messrs. Barr and Son's nursery it hides the ground with its pro- fusion of small exquisitely shaped yellow flowers. The bulbs increase freely, and require not the sUghtest protection. Iris gibraltarica. — It seems a pity that this is not more largely grown. Its half-hardiness may, per- haps, partially account for this ; but with a Uttle arti- ficial warmth it makes a most valuable late winter and early spring flowering plant. I have some fine corymbs already expanding their beautiful pale lilac blossoms. — W. E. Nicholson, Lcicf.<. A group of Chorozema Chandleri elegans in the greenhouse at Kew brings to mind a pretty, elegant, and useful indoor flower, of which we see too little in English gardens. The HoUy-Uke leaves and graceful stems of orange-yellow and pea-shaped flowers give the plant a charming freedom and beauty. It is just the thing for the greenhouse in winter. Violet Marie Louise. — Herewith I enclose a sample of Violets (Marie Louise) grown in a cold frame. We have been picking since November, although we are not free from London fogs. Red spider is a fruit- ful cause of failure in Violet growing, usually caused by drought, the plants requiring abundance of moisture at all times. — D. C, Kingston Hill. *»* Beautiful flowers of this Violet, large, and well coloured. — Ed. Hibbertia dentata brightens the greenhouse at Kew with its yellow flowers made richer by the luxu- riant mass of bronzy-green leafage. The plant encircles one of the rafters, and as there is usually a constant repetition in ordinary greenhousesof one or two plants of the same character, it would be well to introduce this, of which a coloured plate was given in The Garden for July 28. It should be more common, as it was introduced from Australia as far hack as 181G. Kbododendron Countess of Haddington is one of those choice greenhouse or conservatory plants we never tire of, and a specimen in the green- house at Kew is smothered with flowers which are of tubular form, flushed with pale rose on the outside, but almost white withia and delicately scented. It is of hybrid origin, the result of a cross between R. ciliatum and R. Dalhousite, and it will be found that the flowers vary in colour, occasionally coming almost white. It can be easily struck from cuttings. CUvia miniata. — I send you a spike of this old, but serviceable plant, which we have now in full flower and hope to again bloom in the month of August. I find the flowers are very useful for cutting. Anyone having a greenhouse can have it in flower once a year, and with a little extra heat it may be had in bloom a second time, and with strong bottom-heat it may even be flowered three times in one season. The soil I have found it succeed best in is plenty of rough peat, sand, and fibrous loam with pieces of charcoal added. It requires copious supplies of water during the growing season. — J. F. W., Higldands, Gloucester. Dendrobium endocharis is one of the many good things that have been given us by Mr. Sedeu, who raised this charming hybrid from a cross between D. aureum and D. moniliforme, both handsome Den- drobes. We were pleased to see a specimen of D. en- docharis in The Dell collection at Egham the other day growing in a basket suspended near the light, and smothered with a mass of flowers, pure white except for a deep purplish centre to the lip ; their sweet fra- grance scents the whole house. It is one of the most beautiful hybrids yet raised. Exportation of bulbs from Japan.— Ac- cording to a note in the Reviic Horticnle, as many as 1192 cases, containing 700,UOO bulbs, were exported from Yokohama to the United States and Europe dur- ing the months of July, August and September last. Probably the majority of the bulbs were those of Lilium auratum, which the Japanese grow in fields and export in large quantities. Japanese Camellia Mikado, flowers of which have been seut to us by Mr. Gordon, of Twicken- ham, is very beautiful — full, waxy, mottled and splashed with a crimson colour on an almost white ground, the yellow stamens clustering in the centre giving an additional charm. Although not double, this race of Camellias is quite different from the usual flimsy single varieties, the flowers having a compact- ness and fulness peculiarly characteristic. The Daffodils, like all other spring flowers, are three or four weeks earlier this year than usual. N. pallidus prajcox {collected bulbs) has been in full flower for a week past in the neighbourhood of London. Old-established clumps of N. minimus, as well as N. Bulbocodium (nivahs being the most noticeable), are also showing flower. Minor, as also many of the Ta- zettas against a south wall, are just bursting their buds, Odontoglossum Ed^vardi is one of the most striking of its genus, and should be grown by everyone in search of a distinct and noble species. The flowers are produced in bold, thyi-soid panicles, which carry hundreds of small, deep violet and sweetly-scented bloom, inconspicuous when alone, but of remarkable colour in the mass. A noble spike was just bursting into bloom in The Dell collection at Egham the olher day. Epidendrum maeroeliilum album.— A col- oured plate of this Epidendrum was given in TlfR Gakden of October 22, 1887, and we noted it in full bloom the other day. It was introduced from New Grenada and Guatemala, and grows well in the cool end of an intermediate house. The sepals and petals, curled inwards somewhat at the apex, are of a rich bronzy brown colour on the inner face, the lip white, blotched with deep lake near the base, the anther cup yellow. It is one of the best of its genus. AngrsBCum pellucidum is one of the old- fashioned Orchids now overshaded by the great race of hybrids and introductions of late years. It was in- troduced as far back as 1842 from Sierra Leone, and a large plant, carrying upwards of fourteen spikes, in Baron Schroeder's collection was a pleasant surprise. It is grown in a suspended basket near the light, the racemes of white, almost transparent and glistening flowers, hanging quite one foot in length, having a peculiar distinctness, by reason of their transparency and finely fringed lip. In the eagerness to acquire novelties, or so-called novelties, as not a few of the Cypripediums, we are neglecting many interesting plants that were introduced years ago. Primula denticulata. — The flowers of this in sheltered spots in the open air are now fully open, and, beautiful as they always are, they are certainly very welcome on February 1. P. denticulata is a most use- ful plant in a spring garden, and can be increased very easily. Our plan, and one which we have found to succeed well, is to take the largest crowns and cut them into pieces. These planted in good rich soil give us abundance of bloom the following spring. The several forms may be treated in the same way ; indeed the only really strong plants we have yet seen of the variety alba had a full share of this rough treatment. The latter is a very handsome form, and sure to be- come a favourite when its merits are better known. — K. Spring gardening at Ke'w is extending each season, and we are pleased to see that a good use is now made of the many beautiful bulbous flowers that appear early in the year. The gardens can lind many spots for their growth, and just now the Winter Aconite studs the rockery. Rose beds, and odd spots with its yellow. Buttercup-like flowers, while on the mound near the Cumberland Gate entrance are breaks of Snowdrops and Lenten Roses, to be followed in due season by a host of hardy flowers, both common and rare. Crocuses are in full beauty in beds that have a standard Rose or Rhododendron in the centre, and the rich yellow blooms peep up at the foot of the venerable 122 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 8, 1890. Aranoarias, suggesting to the thousands who visit the gardens the good use that our hardy bulbous flowers can be put to in early spring, when_ the garden is usually thought to have nothing to inte- rest. Iris chinensis (Morsea fimbriata),— In The Garden, January 25 (p. 71), was a notice of Iris chinensis, or cicrulea. Having had the plant many years and only flowered it once, I shall be glad to know what treatment it requires. The gardener under whose care it bloomed has died, and I cannot ascertain from any of the men that it met with especial treatment. We keep it in an Azalea house on a shelf near the light. It grows and flourishes, but shows no sign of bloom. It was ex- quisite when it did bloom, and I begrudge it this long interval of repose.— Mrs. Rawson, Millkonse, Halifax. Tlie Epiphyllum is worth a note at Kewi where there is a large mass of the common trun- catum hanging from the spiny growth of the Pereskia aculeata on which it has been grafted. The stock encircles the rafter with its growth, and on it, high up, has been grafted the Epiphyllum, producing the curious, but beautiful result, as the rich green growth is now enriched with a number of the brightly coloured carmine flowers. The Epiphyllum is usually seen in pots, but it might be also used in the way suggested by the speci- men in the Cactus house at Kew. Brownea grandiceps, a magnificent tropical flowering tree, is now in flower in the Palm house at Kew, where there is a noble specimen some 25 feet in height. Browneas are of no value, ex- cept for large conservatories, where free growth can be permitted, but for such liuildings they are well suited, as the pinnate leafage is elegant and the flowers of marvellous character. B. grandiceps is one of the finest of its race. The flowers are produced in an immense globular head, like those of a Rhododendron ; the colour orange-red, enriched by the gold-tipped protrud- ing stamens. It comes, with the other Browneas, from South America. Gardeners' Orphan Fund. — At the monthly meeting of the committee, held on Friday night last, Mr. G. Deal in the chair, the following special receipts were announced : From a concert at Work- sop, £56 4s. From Chrysanthemum shows at Reigate, £50; Edinburgh, £5; and Market Har- borough, £1 Is. From money boxes — Mr. Cannell, Swanley, £1; Mr. Herbst, Richmond, £1 23.; Mr. Vallance, Bristol, £1 lis. (jd. ; Mr. Hughes, Bir- mingham, £5 8s.; Mr. Dodds, Herringswell, Mil- denhall, Suffolk, 53. 8d. ; Mr. Tnbb, Minley Gardens, Farnboro', £1 5s. Id.; total, £10 12s. 3d.; making an aggregate amount during the month of £122 7s 3d. A vote of condolence on the death of Mr. Wildsmith, who was a good supporter of the Fund, was directed to be entered on the minutes and sent to Mrs. Wildsmith. Narcissus viridiflorus. — Perhaps some of your readers can give me some hints as to the suc- cessful cultivation of this interesting plant. A short time ago I received from a friend some bulbs from Gibraltar, or rather from the low-lying ground between the rock and the mainland of the Spanish Peninsula. I placed them in a pot with light soil and free drainage, and kept them well watered until the foliage showed signs of dying away in the earlv summer, when I placed them on a shelf close to the glass in a light house in order to ripen the bulbs. I am afraid that this latter treatment must have been injurious. I carefully repotted the bulbs in September and expected soon to see a rich har- vest of at least leaves, as the flowers generally ap- pear in October or November. In this, however, I was doomed to disappointment, as no sign of vi- tality appeared up to the end of November. All this time the bulbs were kept in a cool house with- out the aid of any fire-heat, but in the early part of December I moved them into a house with an average temperature of (.0°, and soon two out of the six bulbs sent up one leaf apiece. But this is all they have done, and I am anxious to know what treatment I should adopt in order to ensure success another season. Has anyone succeeded with this bulb in the open air ? Perhaps with a little pro- tection it might do better than in pots.— W. E. Nicholson, Leires. Pears. — The unusual development of bloom buds seen on Pear trees just now is certainly causing some amount of uneasiness. It is not possible to note the buds shedding their winter scales and threatening to burst into bloom within a month without a feeling of distrust. The more the buds swell now the greater the danger of their suffering should cold sharp weather yet come. I am not re- ferring to wall trees, but to ordinary standard trees on free stocks — Williams' Bon Chretien, Beurre d'Amanlis, Nouveau Poiteau, Ne Plus Meuris, and others. Black Currants are covered with stout green buds almost ready to burst. If the check needful does not come soon, I fear it will come too late to save Pear bloom from great harm. — A. D. Hyacinthus azureus is certainly a most welcome addition to the hardy bulb border, as just now, undaunted by the severe weather, it is in full flower on the lee side of a huge boulder in the rockery. It seems at last to be thoroughly settled among the Hyacinths, although it has been de- scribed as a Muscari, a Bellevallia, and an Ampho- bolis, and may possibly be best known to some of our readers under one of the latter names. It was found long ago on the Caramanian Taurus by Mr. Elwes, and on the Cicilian Taurus by Mrs. Dan- ford, and will stand uninjured the severest ex- posure. The bright azure Muscari-like flowers ap- pear along with the purplish-green leaves towards the end of January, and continue until March. It increases very slowly, but seeds freely, and this may, after all, be the best means of multiplying the stock, the bulbs in three years being of sufficient size to flower. As it flowers so early, and of neces- sity runs the risk of the blooms being destroyed, it will be better to give as sheltered a spot as possible. A coloured plate of this was given in The Garden, August 10, 1889 (p. 126).— K. IffacN'ab Memorial Fund. — From a circular addressed to us, we learn that an influential com- mittee has been formed for the purpose of raising a fund to afford relief to the family of the late Professor MaoNab, Professor of Botany in the Royal College of Science, Dublin, who, it will be remembered, died suddenly on December 3, 1889. Circumstances, not owing to lack of energy or to mismanagement of his affairs, have pre- cluded the possibility of any further provision for his widow and five children than a life assur- ance policy of £1100, the interest on which alone will be available for some years to come. Sub- scriptions will be gratefully received by Professor W. N. Hartley, hon. treasurer. Royal College of Science, Dublin, and Mr. Greenwood Pim, hon. secretary, Easton Lodge, Monkstown, Dublin. Up- wards of £300 has so far been received towards this deserving fund, which should receive substan- tial assistance from all who knew the untiring zeal and devotion of the late Professor in the work he had so much at heart. Kodgersia podophylla, a native of Northern Japan, is a fine, stately herbaceous plant, a near ally of the handsome Saxifraga peltata, and in con- junction might be used with no small advantage on the borders of lakes or running streams. It proves perfectly hardy, no instance being on re- cord, so far as we are aware, where it has suffered even in the most severe winters. Its hardiness, as well as its robust and handsome appearance when in flower, eminently fit it for positions of this kind, and although the flowers, which resemble those of the Astilbe, are insignificant individually, they make quite a feature when produced in any quan- tity, which is not unusual in warm summers. It has proved very accommodating with us in dry sum- mers, flowering vigorously, even when the supply of water at its roots must have been very small. Saxifraga peltata deserves much the same eulogy as the Rodgersia, its fine nearly round leaves and bunches of pale purple flowers being very striking in the vicinity of water. — K. Rantinculus rutsefolius is j ust now throwing up its beautiful glaucous green deeply-cut leaves, which always remind us of common Rue. When in rich tufts it is very interesting and pretty all through the spring months and until the flowers appear in June and July. It seems to be rather a scarce species, and rarely seen doing well, the secret of which, in our case at any rate, is the destruction caused by slugs from which this Crowfoot, more than any other, seems to suffer. Unless we guard our tufts with care, we inevitably lose all the leaves. It is found plentifully in some spots on the European Alps, extending to Siberia, and grows both in calcareous and granitic formations. We find, as in the case of R. anemonoides, that broken lime rubble suits it very well, as it makes vigorous growth and produces its rather large white flowers very freely. When grown in shady places the flowers often resemble pale Buttercup blooms, the yeUow at the base tinging the whole flower. When grown fully exposed the white and yellow are well marked, and are very effective. — K. Chrysanthetuum Golden Gem. — We cannot give sufficient praise to this lovely variety. A spray received from Mr. Iggulden justifies the good words that have been said for it. The stem sent had been cut from a plant unstopped, and bore ten flowers of average size, all fully developed and beautifully coloured — rich, yet soft yellow shading, with a reddish tint in the centre — a rare contrast. The elegance and refinement of this Chrysanthemum when unstopped and unfed by un- wholesome condiments should make it a favourite with all, even those who seem wedded to the big blooms and lumpy specimens. Slilla Leichtlini. — The flowers of this species are now fully open, and though not so striking as those of some of its near allies, they are very welcome, opening, as they do, almost in the depth of winter. It is a native of the Southern Andes, and seems perfectly hardy in the open air. There are two to three flowers to an umbel and two to three umbels to a root. The flowers, each]about an inch in diameter, are pure white, with a very conspi- cuous green keel down the back, and fragrant. It is nearest to M. biflora and porrifolia, and was first imported by the indefatigable Herr Max Leichtlin, of Baden-Baden. Primula Sieboldi.— Here so early as the end of January, and in the open ground with a some- what northern aspect, these beautiful Japan Prim- roses have made growth 2 inches in height, and in one or two sorts, notably the deep red laciniata, I can see the bloom buds in the centre of the leaf- age. If the weather continues as it now is we shall have these Primroses blooming early in March, and yet under all ordinary-conditions the crowns should not yet have made a start. That we shall have an early spring is assured unless some very cold dull weather should intervene, and if biting east winds also prevail, the pretty spring flowers now so plen- tiful will suffer very much. Whilst it is a common thing to have hardy Primroses in bloom in mid- winter, I have never seen Primula Sieboldi making growth outdoors so early as this year. — A. D. Banunculus anemonoides. — This is a most charming species, and one that is easily managed, either on the open rockery or in pots in the frame or corridor. The great difficulty with plants of this class is the getting them in sufficient quantities to make large groups or pans. Beautiful as the single plants are, it is only when in groups that they are effective. The present species is found plentifully in the Alps of Tyrol and Styria, and is certainly amongst the most beautiful of the alpine kinds. It is said to grow on calcareous soils, and we have found a little old mortar mixed with the soil at planting time very beneficial. It dislikes being disturbed. The position should be fuUy ex- posed to the sun and the soil well drained, as this Ranunculus likes plenty of moisture during the growing season. The flowers, which are larger than a shilling, are pale rose or salmon-coloured, the foliage Fern-like, and glaucous all over. In pots or pans it is a splendid addition to the cool con- servatory, requiring very little attention, and, pro- vided the slugs are kept at bay, a certain bloomer. — K. Feb. 8, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 123 Trees and Shrubs. PICE A CONCOLOR VIOLA.CEA. The soil and climate of Castlewellan, Co. Down, bavins; proved so favourable to the Himalayan and Japanese Conifer.s, engravinga of which ap- peared last year in The (!AKLiEN,it isbynomeans surprising that the Earl of Annesley has been most successful with the best species and varie- ties from the colder regions of North America. Although some of the European and Asiatic species of the Silver Fir are considered less hardy than the Spruces, the New World family being large, nuite hardy, individually handsome, extensively planted on all soils and sites in this country. But spreading over the wide region extending from the Southern Rocky Mountains, through California, as far north as Oref,'on, at elevations ranging from 3000 feet to 7000 feet, it is by no means surprising that seeds sent home by different travellers and named by the recipients should produce trees varying in cha- racter, and that to an extent which would cause much confusion. This confusion has existed, but, fortunately, it has been pretty well cleared up, not only by botanists, but also by private planters, who, like myself, bought this Conifer under the names of P. grandis, P. amabilis, P. Lowiana, P. Parsonsi, and, as a matter of course. Pieea concolor violacea. Engraved tor The GaSden from a photograph seut by the Earl of Annesley. and good, the painstaking planter has found ample materials for his use in the most exposed parts of Britain. Indeed, notwithstanding the fact that the timber, commercially, is of little value, so graceful and so beautiful are the Silver Firs, that they now form one of the most pro- minent features in nearly all the large collec- tions, whilst there is hardly a villa lawn in the kingdom which does not support one or more specimens. Picea concolor, better known as P. lasiocarpa, the most widely distributed of all the North American Silver Firs, was introduced in 1851 by Messrs. Veitch under the name of P. grandis, and, proving perfectly hardy, it has been most P. lasiocarpa, which we now find is not the true P. lasiocarpa of Sir W. Hooker, but P. concolor. To planters whose apace was limited, the dis- covery that they had half a dozen duplicates of the Californian species was disappointing, as much valuable time had been lost, and in not a few instances the most suitable spots had been filled up by handsome vigorous trees too good for removal. Over Picea concolor violacea from Colorado, the variety herewith figured, there can be no mistake, for, as compared with the Californian type, it ia as distinct in all its parts as it ia in colour. The Castlewellan tree, which I have not seen, appears more spreading than those met with in England, reminding one of the beautiful P. bracteata when planted where it can have plenty of light and ample room for the sweep of its base branches. Why this lateral growth, the caretaker, I have no doubt, can ex- plain, as I noticed the same style of develop- ment in the Juniperus recurva and Cryptoraeria japonica engraved last season. One of the most promising specimens I have seen was planted by my lamented friend Mr. Wildsmith at Heck- field Place, Winchfield, Hants, and there so far it bears out Messrs. Veitch's statement that it will not attain the dimensions of the type ; also that the leaves are shorter, more pointed, much closer together, and covered with a dense bluiah- grey glaucescence. This enchanting colour, iu some degree due to the warm and rather too dry sandy soil at Heckfield, quite justifies the defini- tion, although I believe it is called P. o. vio- lacea from the fact that the small cylindrical cones are of a deep violet-purple. As glaucous Conifers, including Abies Douglasi glauca, Abies pungens glauca, A. Bnglemanni glauca, Cedrua atlantica glauca, the frosted Silver Picea nobilia, several of the Lawson Cypress family, and the tree under notice, are perfectly hardy, the modern planter may, if he will, make a most perfect picture of his pinetum, especially if he works in the rich golden tints now so plentiful amongst Yews, Junipers, and Retinosporas. The planter who thinks he haa finished, most certainly will be induced to enliven the deep sombre green of other treea by their introduction, and he wUl not omit Picea concolor violacea, as it is destined to form one of our most perfect lawn and park specimens. W. C. PERNETTYAS. h'E\Y, if any, of our hardy shrabs are more beauti- ful than the Pernettyas, and their attractive fea- tures are not confined to any particular season of the year, as the freely -produced, bell - shaped flowers are in the spring and early summer wonder- folly pretty, while equally beautiful, or perhaps more so, is the autumn and winter display of fruit, added to which the rich deep green glossy foliage forms a pleasing feature at all seasons. Even in the open ground the plants retain their berries plump and fresh for months, while under glass in a cool greenhouse or conservatory they will remain on throughout the entire winter, and as there are now so many forms differing widely in the colour of their berries, some of the most distinct are ex- tremely useful for greenhouse decoration, more es- pecially owing to the fact that the newer and im- proved varieties are dwarfer in growth than the older kinds, and, therefore, more suitable for pots. In common with most of the Encaceic, the Pernet- tyas are peat-loving plants, but it is by no means absolutely necessary to their well-doing, as I have found them thrive even in stiff clayey soils, and also in that of a directly opposite nature, viz,, in sand, on a subsoil of gravel, but this last was slightly moist. The Pernettyas may be planted under varying conditions, but I think they are seen to the greatest advantage when forming a clump on the Grass, as if thoroughly established, the suckers are pushed out freely in all directions, while the arching shoots droop over gracefully, and in this way form a perfect edging, as the lowermost branches are in contact with the ground. For the larger arrangements of rockwork again they are well suited, but in planting them care must be taken that there are no delicate subjects in close proximity, as when established the Pernettyas are very vigorous. The typical Pernettya mucronata is a native of the extreme southern part of S. America, viz , around Terra del Faego and the Straits of Magellan, and, as might be expected from the bleak, inhospitable character of that region, our winters have no effect upon it. The newer varieties, charac- terised by variously coloured fruits, the great pro- fusion in which they are borne, and in most Cisea by a more compact habit of growth, have all been 124 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 8, 1890. raised by Mr. D.ivis, of HilUbjiOU^'a, Co Djwn, Ireland, who devoted a considerable amount of attention spread over a long period of years in rais- ing these Pernettyas. The result of his labours was first brought prominently before the public daring the autumn of 1882, when a great number of varieties were exhibited at one of the meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society, half a dozen of them then receiving first-class certificates. The varieties now in cultivation have berries ranging in colour from deep blackish-maroon to almost white, but as far as my experience extends seedlings from any particular variety cannot be relied upon to per- petuate the peculiar characteristics of their parents, though seeds from white-berried forms produce a preponderance of light-coloured varieties, and rice- versa. Where there is a considerable demand for cut flowers to furnish vases and for similar purposes, the long sprays of the Pernettya when laden with their myriads of wax-like blossoms are in early summer extremely useful, one great merit being the length of time they retain their beauty. Their propagation is a simple matter, as seeds are pro- duced in great quantity, but, as above indicated, should n be desired to propagate with certainty any particular variety, other means than that of raising seedlings must be resorted to. In this case the most effectual method is by layers, and owing to the habit of the plant this can be easily carried out. Very frequently some of the suckers form roots of themselves, or if a specimen is planted rather deeply it is often possible to detach many shoots which are already rooted, but, of course, where it is needed to increase any particular kind to the greatest possible extent, layering must be resorted to. It matters little at what sea- son of the year this is carried out, the principal consideration being to make an incision in the part of the stem that is to be buried, and thus form a tongue after the manner of layering Carna- tions. Besides this the stems must be held securely in position by means of a peg or pegs, and should the soil in which the plants are growing oe of a heavy nature, the layered portion should be sur- rounded with a little sandy peat or some other compost suitable to the formation of roots. An occasional watering when necessary will also greatly assist the action of rooting. In sowing the seed the one great essential is to keep the soil in a regular state of moisture, and this is far more readily done if the seeds are protected by a frame than if sown in the open ground. The berries being of a pulpy nature, they should be rubbed up with some dry sand, which will cause the seeds to become detached from each other, when they can be readily sown. Where there is a frame at hand suitable for the purpose, about 6 inches of sandy peat may be placed in the bottom, and having been made level, the seed should be sown thereon and just covered with the same compost sifted fine. T. SHORT NOTE.— TREES ANB SHRUBS. Garrya elliptiea. — This plant seems to he floweriug freely everywhere. A hedge of it with a north-east aspect at Bannockbarn, Stirlingshire, grows freely and flowers profusely every year. For a archway, where the peudalous catkins can hang down clear of the foliage, it proves very u.seful. For cover- ing oM buildings, and ruins especially, this plant is admirably suited. — T, Pyrus Maulei.— Tliose who admire a handsome, hardy, free-flowering slirub .should make a note of this. If planted and trained, as with us, against a warm wall (a Pine house), it will be now just about to ex- pand its lovely orange and scarlet flowers in great pro- fusion. Moreover, it afterwards sets and ripens a good crop of handsome, Pear-shaped, Quince-looking fruits of a deep orange colour, which are said to make a useful preserve. I fear this valuable plant is not so much utilised or known as it deserves to be. — V7. Cru.mi-. Evergreen Clematis (C. cirrhosa).— Where protected by a wall this Clematis has been flower- ing for some time, and with the number of un- opened buds it promises to continue in bloom for a considerable period. It is a native of Southern Europe, from whence it was introduced nearly 300 years ago, yet despite the popularity of the Clematis as a garden flower, and the fact that out of the vast number of hardy species and varieties this alone flowers during the winter months, it is even now quite a rare plant, and one that might be sought for in vain among most lists of this popular flower. The blossoms are by no means showy, being of a greenish white tint, and on the exterior covered with silky down. Individually they are rather less than an inch in diameter, but are borne in considerable numbers, and the setting of prettily cut, deep bronzy green leaves serves to show the blossoms to the greatest advantage. This species is strictly evergreen in character. — H. P. GOWEN'S CYPRESS. (CUPRBS8U.S GOVENIANA.) This is one of the rarer Conifers, at least not a commonly cultivated tree, for the specimens of it to be found in English parks and gardens are few indeed. Of handsome appearance and being by no means difficult to cultivate, it may seem strange that so distinct a Cypress, and one that was sent home to us nearly forty-four years ago, should be so little known as it is at present. Its rather di- minutive stature and absence from the majority of our good nursery lists may, perhaps, to some extent account for so ornamental a member of the Cypress family being so great a stranger amongst us. From information that I have collected, it would appear that Gowen's Cypress succeeds admirably when planted near the coast ; indeed, there is as bright and healthy a specimen as anyone could wish for growing amongst scores of other uncommon Coni- fers not far from the seashore on the wind-swept Isle of Man. There it has formed a neat and hand- some tree, or, more correctly speaking, large-sized shrub. Another, and by far the finest specimen I have yet seen or heard of, occupies a very conspicuous spot on the lawn at Churchill, in the north of Ire- land. This is a handsome and well-furnished tree, and whose deep green and plentifully produced foliage impresses one with the idea that both soil and surroundings suit it. Other specimens that I have seen of late, though far short of the propor- tions of the Irish tree just referred to, are so healthy and of such free growth, that I can hardly think otherwise than that this particular Cypress is peculiarly well suited for planting in England or Ireland, but Scotland I cannot vouch for, statistics from there being few, and not very promising in their details. Gowen's Cypress is somewhat after the style of a dumpy or dwarfish specimen of the better-known C. Lambertiana or macrocarpa. It, however, does not attain to the size of that species, but usually presents a bushy and dense habit, and with bright green foliage, the leaves scale-like and imbricated. Like C. macrouarpa, the present species bears cones in great quantity, and it is quite a sight to see some specimens scarcely 12 feet in height loaded with the pretty and richly-tinted cones. Male or pollen cones, too, are borne in such quan- tity as to impart to the tree in spring an appear- ance that is foreign to it at any other time. In this respect it favours the Chinese winter-flowering Juniper. From notes of the quality of the soil in which some of the largest and healthiest specimens of this Cypress are growing, I cannot say that it appears to favour that of any particular quality, although the best tree I know is growing in ordi- nary loam, but I have seen another that seemed to revel in a peaty mixture that was rendered very porous by the addition of sharp sand and rocky dt'bris. Where space is confined, Gowen's Cypress is one of the trees that should be planted, it being of small growth and of a rich foliage tint. A breezy situation is all the better, but it will not long stand full exposure to east or north winds. There is a pretty glaucous form of this Cypress, bat it is rare. In my opinion it is, for orna- mental purposes at least, far more desirable than the parent. It has a hoary, glossy blue tinge of foliage, not unlike that seen in that pretty form of the Savin known as Juniperus tamariscifolia. Al- together, Gowen's Cypress deserves to be cultivated if not for its graceful outline, at least for the bright green tint of its abundant foliage. A. D. W. Corylopsis spicata. — This pretty shrub was introduced by the Messrs. Veitch, of Chelsea, from Japan some twenty-five years or more ago, but it is not much seen in our gardens, where its flowers are doubly welcome from the time of year they appear. For the information of those who do not know this shrub I may state that the growth is slender, twiggy, and bears quantities of drooping spikes of bloom, and each bloom is fur- nished with a large bract ; the flowers and bracts are soft yellow, and the fine stamens of a deep red, the spikes of bloom being some 3 inches or 4 inches long and slightly fragrant. When in leaf the shrub is very interesting, having broad, strongly nerved, cordate leaves, which are serrate at the edges, light green on the upper side, and clothed with a downy white beneath. It is a very handsome shrub and should be used largely. — W. H. G. Hamamelis japonica. — I think that your correspondent "T.," in his paragraph in The Gar- den, Jan. 25 (p. 79), is under a misconception as to the Identity of the above-named interesting and beautiful winter-blooming shrub, which, according to the editor of the Botanical Mni/azine, is synony- mous and identical with Hamamelis arborea, as figured on plate 6659 of the losth volume of the above-named work, and not the pale, lemon-flowered and later-blooming form described by your corre- spondent, the correct name of which I believe to be H. Zucariniana, under which I have grown it for many years past. Curiously enough. Sir Joseph Hooker does not recognise this form at all, as he states that the family of Hamamelis consists of only two species, this Japanese form and the American species known under the name of H. virginica, and yet H. Zucariniana is quite distinct in colour of flower from either. By far the finest specimens of H. arborea or japonica I have ever seen, and the only ones really deserving the names of trees, were in the beautiful shrubberies of Colonel Capelcure at Badger Hall, near Bridgenorth.— W. K. Gumbleton. Kitchen Garden. TOMATOES. Recently I have collected much reliable and interesting information concerning Tomatoes, and am pleased to note that some of the largest market growers both in the Channel Islands and in Sussex take a much more hope- ful view of their culture than they did at the beginning of 1889. Then they had but poor hopes of being able to cope with tbe destruc- tive disease known as Cladisporium, and which had in several instances during the year 1888 completely ruined the crops, in the larger houses especially, and appeared to be getting worse each seaSdU. Now, however, some have discovered that the disease increases in viru- lence up to the end of the third year, after which it assumes a milder form, and if is thought may disappear as mysteriously as it came. Hitherto it bad detied the most extra- ordinary measures taken with a view to stamp it out. Everything short of charring the in- terior of houses from wliich aft'ected plants had been cleared has been tried by those whose livelihood depended principally upon the Tomato crops, but all eflbrts failed, the germs apparently surviving somewhere, as plants newly introduced into these disinfected quarters were soon as badly overrun with the fungus as those previously got rid of. The latest news from a friend is to the effect that he has at last discovered a remedy, and, judg- ing from the various samples of the leaves I received, it would appear that such is really the case. We must not be too sanguine about the matter, but should the concoction used Feb. 8, 1890.] THE GARDEN. 125 prove to be efficacious, it will be duly adver- tised and sold. I, too, fancy I have mastered the disease, as our plants, which in the autumn were badly diseased, are now nearly free of it. In this case a powerful mildew-destroying com- position was used, but the disease is so treacherous and persistent, that I shall wait and see the result. It may be that the adoption of what I term precautionary measures may have had much to do with the prevention of the further spread of the disease, and seeing that these are also fa- vourable in any case to the production of heavy crops of fruit, those who are well advised will also follow them. The disease spreads most ra- pidly when a very humid atmosphere is main- tained, and the larger, therefore, the houses are in which the Tomatoes are grown the more destruc- tive it becomes. With plenty of fire-heat it is possible to admit air at the top of the house both night and day in dull weather, or when it is most wanted, without lowering the tempera- ture of the house much. The dry atmosphere thus maintained, in addition to checking the di- sease, also tends to render the growth harder and more fruitful. In warmer weather front air should be admitted during the hottest part of the day, after which there is usually less need to resort to artificial impregnation to ensure a good set. The foregoing alone will not, how- ever, check over-luxuriant growth, and other preventive measures are therefore advisable, this being especially the case when the plants are put out into a border of any kind. In small houses where, perhaps, only a ridge of soil is formed for the plants to root into, this may well be enclosed in loose brick walls, and it can then be rammed as firmly about the roots as in the case of Melons. A rich compost ought always to be avoided, little besides fresh loam, turfy or otherwise, or say the top spit of a pasture or newly broken-up building ground, being all that is needed. An unlimited supply of this even, or say the whole inside border of a house in which the Tomatoes are planted thinly and trained singly up stakes, this being the most general practice with market growers, win cause a much too rank growth unless it is rammed almost as hard as a road, but no one need hesitate about doing this. While I am penning this I have before me a photograph (sent from Guernsey) of a house of early To- matoes, and the plants that have produced this extraordinarily heavy crop of fruit were growing in a border formed of fresh turfy loam, over which a heavy garden roller had been re- peatedly passed in order to make it as solid as possible. In this extra firm root-run the plants grow very sturdOy, very little superfluous growth being formed, but, on the other hand, they are both exceptionally fruitful, and to a certain extent disease - resisting. In'-'>llifent market growers are also of opinion that To- matoes rooting in a rather large mass of soil re- quire very much less water than was at one time thought to be the case. Dryness at the roots, especially at the outset, would appear to greatly promote free flowering, and, what is even more worth knowing, tend to favour a much surer set. When a heavy crop is swelling off, this of itself will effectually check over- luxuriance, and if there is no disease to con- tend with, water, and if need be liquid manure may be much more freely applied. The foregoing facts ought to be welcomed by desponding growers as well as the more numer- ous class who consume Tomatoes whenever they can be had at a reasonable price. It would also appear that private growers are soon to be in a position to grow Tomatoes with very much less troabla than formerly, owing to the intro- duction of varieties that are supposed to require no stakes, and which form little or no super- fluous growth. The natural height of these novelties is said to be about 3 feet, each plant being certain to produce a heavy crop of fruit. This is really too good to be true, but I give it for what it is worth. Candidly, I am afraid those varieties already in the market will prove dis- appointing to those who try them. It is not claimed for the LorUlard that it is a self- supporting variety, but the woodcuts, which in the autumn of 1888 were distributed among British seedsmen, conveyed the idea that it was wonderfully sturdy and remarkably fruitful. I gave this variety a fair trial and found it nothing out of the common. Dwarf Champion is claimed to be the "future king of Tomatoes," as it is " very dwarf and sturdy, stands heavy manuring, and requires no stakes." The illus- tration given of this wonderful variety is most startling, far surpassing anything of the sort ever attempted before, which is saying a good deal. My experience with this variety was somewhat disappointing, especially after having seen the illustration just alluded to. It is certainly of distinct and sturdy habit and fairly productive, but in this instance the strength of the plant seems to be expended on the produc- tion of stout foliage and stems rather than side shoots. On the whole, it is a doubtful gain. W. lOGULDEN. Parsley during winter. — It seems almost in- credible that there should be a scarcity of this use- ful herb during winter if enough has been sown and properly attended to the previous summer and autumn. I think failures often occur from the plants being too thickly grown, thus becoming tender for want of light and air. If the soil ia rich and not well drained failures must take place. Denuding the plants of gross outside leaves daring the autumn should not be overlooked. Last March I saw some very fine Parsley which had been sown as an edging. It was growing on soil hard, but not very dry , and near the margin of a sluggish river. The ground seemed quite innocent of manure, and not a plant had apparently sufEere